Around the Table

Charlotte Jewish News December 2021

There are two foods that are traditionally eaten by Jews on Hanukkah (Hannouca in French): latkes and sufganyot, or jelly-filled donuts. This Hanukkah, I had the idea to make a treat that is similar to sufganyot, but is a traditionally eaten in France at Carnaval. In the St. Etienne and Lyon area, where my husband is from, they are called bugnes (something like boonye), and they are similar to beignets. Bugnes are made from a buttery brioche-like dough and fried up into small, crisp bites lightly dusted with sugar. They are delicious, and a perfect treat for Hanukkah, the holiday of fried food.

I have perfumed them here with orange flower water, which I absolutely love. Fleur d’oranger, as it is called in French, has a sweet, floral fragrance that is highly appreciated in the Mediterranean region- North Africa in particular, and you can find it locally in stores that stock Middle Eastern products. If you can’t find orange flower or would rather not use it, add extra vanilla, a dash of rum, or a bit of orange juice instead.

So here is a recipe that has become a Hanukkah tradition in my French-Jewish household: Bugnes de Hannouca. This is a dairy recipe, but dairy ingredients can be substituted with nondairy equivalents.

Bugnes de Hanoucca (Dairy recipe, but can be made parve) Makes about 3 dozen bugnes

4 cups of all-purpose flour 2 packets of granulated yeast 1/2 cup sugar 1 stick of butter or non-dairy alternative 4 large eggs 1 tsp vanilla extract 1/2 cup heavy cream or non-dairy milk 1/4 cup cold water 4 tsp orange flower water (or rum or orange juice) 2 tsp salt vegetable oil to fry powdered sugar for serving

In a large bowl, place all the dry ingredients and blend. Make a well in the center and break the eggs into it. In a microwave-safe dish, melt the butter, and then add the water to cool the butter. Add this mixture to the eggs. Then follow with the rest of the wet ingredients.

Mix the dough well with a wooden spoon. Once it comes together, sprinkle with flour and knead (pulling up from the bottom and folding over) for a minute or two to make a smooth dough. If the dough is too wet,

add small amounts of flour until the ball holds together and can be lightly kneaded. This dough is supposed to be fairly loose and not stiff. Cover with plastic wrap and leave in a warm spot for at least three hours until it gets puffy. Alternatively, the dough can be left in the refrigerator for a day or two. When ready to use, leave out at room temperature for an hour or more.

When you’re ready to fry, add canola or other neutral oil to a heavy, large frying pan or pot to the depth of at least 2 inches. Heat the oil to approximately 320-330 degrees Fahrenheit. If you’re not sure of the temperature, add a small piece of dough. The oil should bubble actively all around the dough and quickly bring it to the surface.

Roll out sections of the dough with a floured rolling pin to about 1/4 inch in thickness, and cut in rows. Next, cut across at a diagonal to make slanted rectangles (parallelograms if I recall my grade school geometry). Traditionally a slit is cut into this rectangle and one end is pulled through the hole. Any shape will work, though.

Drop the dough in the oil. Keep a close eye on the donuts and flip them when they begin to get golden. Don’t wait until they are too brown to flip, or they will easily turn too dark. When both sides are lightly golden, remove and transfer to a paper towel lined plate.

Dust with powdered sugar and serve promptly.

Charlotte Rouchouze, PhD is a local French teacher, food blogger, and beaded jewelry designer. Her blog about food traditions from around the world can be found at www.thechildrenstable.com. Contact her at charlotte.rouchouze@yahoo. com.