travelCiiN KYRGYZSTAN
Where To Stay...
Where To Eat... FAIZA
Hyatt Regency Bishkek
The hotel is one of The better properties in Bishkek, facilities not very impressive as the rooms felt old with TV hanging off a side wall, breakfast could be better for the price you pay. The staff could be trained better in terms of execution. I’m a platinum on Marriott rewards and just started trying out Hyatt.
A large, traditional Kyrgyz restaurant, split over two adjoining buildings, Faiza is great value place packed full of locals where you can enjoy high quality favourites like Laghman, Pelmini, Manti, Shorpo, Borscht, etc. Their impressive shashlik is all cooked over a wood burner.
BUKHARA Plaza Hotel Bishkek In a leafy area and across the street from Spartak Stadium, this polished hotel is 13 minutes' walk from the central Ala-Too Square and 29 km from Manas International Airport. Featuring cushioned headboards, city views and floorto-ceiling windows, the warm rooms come with WiFi access, flat-screen TVs, minifridges, and tea and coffeemakers.
140
Ambassador Hotel
This informal hotel is a 15-minute walk from the State History Museum, 3 km from shopping at the Osh Bazaar and 7 km from sporting events at the Gorodskoi Katok ice rink. Warmly decorated rooms come with free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs and minibars, along with tea and coffeemaking facilities. Most have balconies, and upgraded quarters offer sitting areas.
Garden Hotel, Bishkek On a leafy street, this laid-back hotel is a 9-minute walk from the nearest bus stop, 4 km from historic Ala-Too Square and 30 km from Pik Semyonov mountain. Relaxed rooms provide free Wi-Fi, flat-screens, minifridges, and tea and coffeemaking facilities. Upgraded rooms add sitting areas. Suites have separate living rooms. In-room dining and massages are offered.
Another great shout for Kyrgyz and Central Asian cuisine in general, plus a few internationally inclined dishes. This place is more upmarket than Faiza, with prices to reflect this, although it’s still reasonable. It’s an attractive place, with Central Asian textiles, tiles and crafts on display and a nice outdoor terrace.
PUR:PUR
Stepping into Pur Pur is like travelling back in time. With The Ink Spots and Charleston Chasers serenading you, traditional lampshades emitting soft light and bookcases full of old suitcases, you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in an antique shop. But Georgian cuisine is on the menu here, and it’s as delightful as the surroundings. Aubergine and walnut paste wrappers, succulent dolma and a clay pot of aromatic lobio entertained our tastebuds to start. On our first visit Beef Ojahuri followed, on our last night Lamb Ribs Pur Pur, all washed down with a nice bottle of red.
VINOTEKA Strolling past this place, all soft lighting and wood, our curiosity was immediately piqued. The name, complete with corkscrew opener for a ‘T’, left no doubt to what could be expected inside. Jamon Iberico brochettes, a cheese platter, prosciutto and rocket pizza, all washed down with a carafe of Rioja. I was in heaven.
CHILI PEPPERS We were actually on our way to Taksim Cafe when we walked past Chili Peppers, Frida Kahlo and a mariachi man beckoning us in. The promise of guacamole made us stay and it was so yummy we ordered a second round. Complimentary nachos and salsa accompanied our burritos, my asado pork pipping Del’s veggie feast in the taste test.
What To Do... Sleep in a Yurt
Watch Salbaruun
Yurts are the epitome of nomadic life and no trip to Kyrgyzstan would be complete without spending at least one night amidst the cosy felt surroundings of a traditional yurt. Over the summer months many yurt camps are set up in convenient places for tourists to stay including the south shore of IssykKul lake, Song-Kul and Jyrgalan and along many of the popular hiking routes. If you fancy getting more off the beaten path you can head off to some of the less frequented hiking areas and find yourself some actual shepherds living in their yurts over the summer months.
This is the name for traditional eagle hunting in Kyrgyzstan. Salbaruun is still very much a living tradition and eagles are trained throughout the country to chase and hunt prey. The World Nomad Games was a huge gathering of eagle hunters from all over Central Asia and was an amazing spectacle. If you want to arrange to watch a demonstration and take photos of these amazing animals you can get in touch with Destination South Shore who can contact the local Salbaruun club.
Visit the Magical Fairytale Canyon
Discover Dungan Culture in Karakol
Always wanted to see what it’s like on Mars? A trip to Skazka canyon on the south shore of Lake IssykKul will have you feeling pretty close. The incredible valley of red sandstone rocks shaped by the elements in all kinds of hills and valleys. There are areas with ripples of orange, red, yellow and even purple sands layered together. This is a stunning place to stop and visit and is particularly breathtaking at sunset. You can take a taxi there from the nearby town of Bokonbaevo or ask a marshrutka leaving from Karakol to stop on the way past.
Dungans are a group of ethnic Chinese muslims who first migrated to Kyrgyzstan in the 19th century. This unique blend of Islam and Chinese culture makes for some amazing cuisine and architecture. The Dungan Mosque in Karakol resembles a Chinese temple and even has dragon heads carved into the corners. Besides Ashlan-fu you can also enjoy a trip to the Dungan museum followed by an overly indulgent 8 course meal in a local Dungan village. The mosque is open from 8am everyday and is free to enter. The dinner can be organised through Destination Karakol office and costs 1400som per person.
Illustration By: Katerina Patapi (@kp.illust) www.theciin.com
