The Clothes Maiden A journal for the creative and fashionable minds
Edition 11. March/ April 2013
A journal for the fashionable and creative minds
The Clothes Maiden Contents
NYMPHA
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53 Standard Excess
State
Tzunuum
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72
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NYMPHA
Standard Excess
Pretty Things We Like
LOULOU RELOULOU
Bird Trouble
STATE
Katie Frank
Tzunuum
Gloria Marigo
Zib
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17
67
24
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76
46
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Hajin Bae
Shi Jen Huang Editor: Stephanie Anderson Contributors: Jane Kim Fay Williams
Illustrators: Becky Astbury Daniela Pinheiro
NYMPHA
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t was only back in January 2013 when we first heard about NYMPHA, a new clothing line designed by Erika Dark, Kai Suede and W’Eve. Based in the deep shadows of East London underground, the brand focuses upon creating clothing for men and women who look to emphasise their imagination through statement styles.
NYMPHA is all about edgy glam, and with their ability of taking contemporary fashion trends and giving them a whole new dimension, it’s not a shocker that the line has shot straight to success; these guys have already collaborated with the likes of stylist and art director, David Motta and Patrick Wolf, and have been featured in articles of several international publications. By looking at their first ever lookbook entitled ‘Underwater Love’, it is safe to say that this label does not believe in boundaries when applied to style, and seek to create pieces that are both striking and powerful. Inspiration is sought through all things fantastical and romantic, from the mythological and ethereal, to even Mother Nature herself. You will see heavy embroidery and enchantingly beautiful but deadly nautical illustrations on vintage and handmade felts and fabrics, such as leather biker jackets, lace bralets, skirts and shorts. With their motto being: ‘more is more, less is bore’, let NYMPHA guide you on a visual journey and allow you to express your personality through their eclectic and diverse pieces.
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Pretty Things We Like Kate Broughton
Laura Wale
8) www.katebroughton.co.uk (£4)
Cheeky Leopard
9) www.merrimaking.co.uk (£30)
1) www.etsy.com/people/LaurasJewellery (£7)
Merrimaking
2) www.cheekyleopard.co.uk (£10.34)
Bahari Blossom
10) www.etsy.com/shop/BahariBlossom.com (£3.99)
Johnny Loves Rosie
3) www.johnny-loves-rosie.com (£10)
Scent Cosmetics
Flurageous
11) www.scentcosmetics.com (£5)
Ville De Fleurs
12) www.dollycool.co.uk (£7)
Kiki’s Boutique
13) www.rosiesimons.co.uk (£4)
Oushka
14) www.supremilyjewellery.com (£6)
4) www.flurageous.com (£5)
Dolly Cool
5) www.villedefleurs.com (£3.99)
Rosie Simons Design
6) www.kikisboutique.com (£7)
Supremily Jewellery
7) www.oushka.com (£18)
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Bird Trouble B
ird Trouble is a recycled and handmade line created by Alexz Sandoval in her Chicago, IL home studio. She started designing under Bird Trouble in 2009 while living on the outskirts of California's East Bay area. The inspiration behind Bird Trouble's lifestyle comes from Sandoval’s youthful travels; a wanderlust fever and Rock ‘n’ Roll. Each design is dedicated to giving recycled and vintage materials a new life while still leaving you daydreaming about the mysterious previous lives behind those materials. In order for Alexz to make these incredible accessories, she finds her materials at thrift stores, estate sales, antique stores, yard sales and any possible place where true hidden gems can be found. Since Alexz's fabrics are thrifted and limited, most of her styles are one-of-a-kind, or come in very small collections. She is currently being inspired by 60′s/70′s vintage-looks mixed with a Chicago everyday girl's life, finding textures, and creating multiple shapes. The Bird Trouble lifestyle is for the individual who lives as a loud, free spirit who run when they’re told to walk. Custom orders are available upon availability. BT encourages individuality and personalisation.
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COLLABORATION WITH MEGAN SAUL PHOTOGRAPHY. DESIGNS, STYLING, & MOD. ELING BY BIRD TROUBLE.
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An interview with Katie Frank Tell us a bit about yourself Katie? My name is Kasia, but everyone calls me Katie. I'm half German, half Polish and I live in Poland. Fashion is my passion since I can remember. I'm 21 and I still don’t know what to do with my life. In the future I want to do something with fashion and move out of Poland. I'm a massive daydreamer, music and cat lover. I'm a very creative person who has a million ideas at once. I also love photography, and Lomography is one of my new passions. I feel like I can express my personal style by creating my blog, showing people what I love and what's around me. When did you start blogging? I’ve started blogging in June 2012. It was in the first month of my gap year so I had so much free time. What inspires you to create such interesting/ arty posts? I always say inspiration is everywhere, all you need to do is just look around. I think some people see them better and some are just blind because they are absorbed in work. The main things that inspire me is music, movies and of course books. 24
Do you have any plans for the future? To be honest I don’t have any. I love fashion journalism and I would love to study it, but it’s only a dream. I checked some schools out in Poland but they didn’t have any interesting courses. I also thought of opening my own business, but unfortunately it didn’t work out. For now I will carry on blogging, because this is what I love to do.
What do you do in your spare time? I’ve never had spare time as I always do something! I blog, take photos - I play with my cat, listen to music, watch movies or end up starting my own projects.
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Who inspires your personal style? It’s a mix of Charlotte Free, Alexa Chung, Lana Del Rey, Marina Diamandis and Florence Welch; their style inspires me immensely.
Have you any favourite bloggers out there? Yes, there are so many blogs out there that I love, which inspire me.
Tell us what you’re wearing in your OOTD! I’m wearing a Dahlia dress, a cashmere Prada sweater, a chocolate vintage Chanel bag, my favourite Dr Martens and a Tally Weijl’s hat!
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Skate Girl
SKATE GIRL CREDITS: Model: Ema Krot @ Urban Management Stylist: Alessandra Faja Makeup & Hair: Hilaria Brilli
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An interview with Hajin Bae 46
What inspires you to draw?
Please tell us a bit about yourself?
My inspiration comes mostly from music and fashion. Even as a child, I loved music, I used to draw what came to my mind while listening to it - that still hasn’t changed. Fashion has also been my long-term interest, when I look at models, their face often gives me something to draw.
My name is Hajin Bae and I am an art director/designer and also an illustrator in Korea. I’m the visual artist for 015B, an influential Korean music group since the 90s, for their new release cover. I design album covers for several musicians and art directing for music festivals. You will see my artwork in many music projects and advertisements as well. I’m also involved in fashion illustration; I did a cover and directed the cover story artwork for the recent issue of a worldwide fashion magazine, NYLON Japan. I love shopping. I also collect dresses.
Do you have a favourite piece of artwork? My favourite artwork is the drawing of my Dutch friend, Samira. She’s one of my friends I met on Tumblr. I have other friends who are modelling, but Samira is special. Her face looks fierce and very charming at the same time, and this inspires me in a very different way.
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And What do you love most about being an illustrator?
what are the most difficult things about being an illustrator?
Best thing about being an illustrator would be that I make living out of what I love most. It’s not some desk job and illustration draws quite a bit of attention, getting me to communicate with people through my work. Even though I work alone, sometimes I feel like singing in front of a large crowd.
I don’t get to work regularly and that can be financially difficult. Sometimes deadlines are way too tight and sometimes I work too much. These are the downside of working as an illustrator, but the worst would be when I have to give up a potentially amazing project because my current schedule doesn’t allow. That makes me really sad.
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Do you have any exciting projects in the pipeline? What do you do when you’re not using your creative talent?
I’m currently on a project with Brayant Eslava, a fashion photographer based in US This is quite a unique fashion collaboration we are doing here, our own original works, photography and illustration, come together and born into a new genre. Check out www. bryjins.com and see it for yourself! There’s another project I’m on right now, but I can’t share much at this moment. All I can tell you is that it’s from a high profile client and my illustration will be used for their limited editions. Wait for it and soon you will see!
I meet people when I don’t draw. When I am not chatting with friends, I spend time listening to new music releases or recommendations from a friend who manages a music selection at a radio station.
To see more of Hajin's artwork visit soulist-aurora-about.tumblr.com
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Standard Excess
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Standard Excess: Dark Matter R
achael and Chi are fun loving, young girls from the USA; they live for vintage fashion and are talented avid artists. The two combined their love and passion together and created one hell of a label, Standard Excess. The clothing brand was founded in 2012 for fashion–forward, edgy girls. The minute you glance at their website you’ll instantly become attracted to the original designs, amazing curated vintage pieces and customised one-of-akind items. We also get the wicked sense they are into studs, spikes, cheeky humour and gritty glamour. We wanted to find out more about their latest collection and the idea behind it. The girls informed us that the current lookbook, entitled Dark Matter was a very organic development. They wanted it to look moody and dramatic at the same time, but very edgy yet soft. That’s why they ended up contrasting the two models to play up this vibe. Ellen looks more androgynous with their styling while Maggie is the brooding character. They exclaimed that putting them together was really amazing while shooting because it just worked so well for them. Every original Standard Excess design is drawn by hand and screen-printed by Rachael and Chi. They spend a lot of time bouncing ideas for new lookbooks and T-shirt designs, often drawing inspiration from music, movies and the humour of everyday life. You can find them on Facebook: www.facebook.com/StandardExcessClothing Tumblr: www.standardxs.tumblr.com
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Twitter: @standardxs Instagram: standardxs
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u o l u o L
u o l u o l e R 62
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ersonal space. An intriguing concept when all Londoners know the feeling of being forced into intimate proximity with strangers. Loulou Reloulou a Parisian design graduate challenges us to be closer. To explore that physical contact and to embrace the relationship created between two or more people when they share clothes. We don't mean wearing your boyfriend’s shirt, we mean wearing it together. At the same time. The depth of her garments beautifully constructed boundaries, their respective restrictions and also how being close can be freeing are the starting point. Exploring that 'relationship' between clothes and the wearer, and indeed that missing piece should you be modelling it alone, are used as a vehicle for artistic and sociological experiment.
Would it be difficult to swim whilst attached together at the hip, as with her Siamese Swimsuit? We’re not sure, may be it would be more efficient? However, strutting together in this suit, wearing layers of pearls and a pop of colour and hinting at Holly Golightly, they certainly look close, confident and cool. Does a supporting act add confidence? It would certainly seem so. Acrobatic Love and its tantric exploration give a little bit more room for manoeuvre. Spandex, neon and contrasting sleeves, combine some of the most recent fashion trends but somehow they seem more accessible, and could it be even more wearable when worn together? Lisiane, we love your work!
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By Fay Williams
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State
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orn out of the creativity of Brooklyn based visual artist Adrienne Antonson and her meticulous hand made approach to garments, her pieces are the perfect compliment to the female artisan. The inspiration came about whilst working and living on an Alapaca farm on Vashon Island, Washington. Absorbing the views of water and mountains at every corner, the landscape of patchwork and natural pastoral setting really sets the tone for Adrienne’s creations. Where sustainability is no longer an option but a rule for designers of all genres, STATE embraces the quality of items deriving from its story, origins and inception in its purest form. Creating one-of-a-kind items from organic cotton and reclaimed materials they are and advocate for Farm-to-Hanger fashion and celebrates responsible design and manufacturing processes.
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By Jane Kim
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Photography: Josh Wool
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zunuum came into our world in 2012, from a desire to make beautiful body adornments bearing a tribal feel with a modern edge. Having satisfied her wanderlust, French jewellery designer Raphaela Cornut has finally made a nest and is busy weaving colours, patterns and natural materials into pieces of jewellery for the wild at heart.
Dreams, art, myth and anthropology inspire the wild imagination behind Tzunuum and an ethos of sustainability is held close to heart. Using vintage and dead stock materials as well as hand crafted elements designed in collaboration with other artists, Tzunuum focuses on a strong aesthetic that doesn’t compromise the natural beauty we find around us. Each piece is either made to order or produced in very small batches to keep things unique. No mass-production here! Leather, gemstones, wood, rope and cotton are at the core of each collection, mixing earthy materials with bright colours resulting in the bold, geometric shapes that permeate Tzunuum pieces. Preferring style over fashion, Raphaela’s creations are designed for everyday wear, to accessorise wardrobe staples, for dancing all night and to stand out of the big grey crowd. After time spent travelling Tzunuum is now based in Berlin. The label can be found in a few selected independent boutiques in Europe, USA and Japan. With a line of handbags and accessories being launched next September, Tzunuum is part of an expansive vision and Raphaela keeps her mind open to the future. With a bold imagination in her pocket, music, painting, photography and filmmaking are also on her to do list.
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Zib
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atvian duo Inga Preidite and Irene Andreyeve have come a long way from the beginning of ZIB where they set out to redesign light reflective safety garments into knitwear. Northern Europe boasts dark cold nights and the necessity of hats and gloves became a challenge, why couldn't these essential items be both beautiful and functional? It was always done with style and care, and their ingenious treatment of this industrial product, has lead them to create a fabulous range of everyday clothing and accessories.
The utilitarian idea is reflected in the ease of wear but is by no means the overriding sentiment of their collection. Light weight fine knits, combined with their individual screen printed chiffon dresses, are adorned with almost cartoon like prints their inspiration taken from nature and have a distinctive Baltic feel. Colours range from Sea Green to peach and they combine aesthetic design and textures throughout with stud embellished collars, chiffon backed sweaters and fantastic for me, longer than standard hosiery. They utilise stop-start animation to walk the visitor through a modernist garden of potted flowers and ornate leggings, and give us a sense of seasonal transition. Each print will be slightly different due to the organic process of printing, so count your piece as a one-off. More is most definitely more, colourful, fun and unmistakeable, adorn your hair with petals and make like you're in Riga in the spring.
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By Fay Williams
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aiwanese fashion designer Shi Jen Huang graduated from Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Ghent, Belgium, in 2007 in Fashion Design, and worked for numerous fashion labels across the world up until 2011 when she launched this, her Eponymous line.
Fantasy, whimsy and fairy tales influence the designer as well as film, conversations and books. Her literary inspiration can be clearly seen in her S/S 2013 collection, as unicorns, galaxy flashes and simple wearable shapes with couture details make this a highly desirable and covetable collection. Playsuits, and belted summer dresses make up the majority of the range, with an emphasis on clever draping, and simple shapes, she lets the fantastical prints do the talking. This is a move away from the deconstructed tailoring and sports luxe of the previous A/W collection, but ease-of-wear is a thread of consistency throughout. Candy colours and eye-catching motifs mean accessories should be kept to a minimum, the simpler the better. Perfect holiday wear, LA cool meets Ibiza hedonism, wherever there is an all-day outdoor club in the sunshine – this will be the perfect collection to take you there. Throw on over your bikini; add neutral flip-flops and carry and enormous clutch in the mint hue of spring 2013 and you are all set. Natural sun lightened surf tangled hair and a hint of bronzed skin topped up the previous day, is the simplest way to pull off this full-moon party glamour. It is rare that a holiday wardrobe could be composed of one label, but to be honest barring said basic accessories, what else could anyone need?
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By Fay Williams
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