The Cosplay Dossier by The Cosplay Dossier

ISSUE ONE Sept 2017

Colour in cosplay Krissy Victory and Hijabi Hooligan on their experiences as POC cosplayers

Photography for Cosplay Behind the lens with Transwarp and Raw Cosplay Photography

Cosplay On A Budget

Tips to help you bring you cosplay to the next level without breaking the bank.

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Letter from the Editor

Acknowledgements The people without whom this magazine would not be possible First off, a huge thank you to everyone that contributed, be it sources, those that donated your images, thoughts and support to the magazine.

Caffeination and Sanity crew Steph Farnsworth Thomas Blackhurst Hannah Parker Thank you for reminding me to eat, sleep and bringing me caffeine when I was too busy to do so

ello you lovely people and welcome to the very first issue of The Cosplay Dossier! Inside you’ll find a range of tutorials and interviews with lots of interesting people, all of which serve to fulfill the number one ideal behind the Cosplay Dossier: Anyone Can Cosplay. Over the years, there have been some not very nice things said about people’s efforts to bring their fvourite characters to life, because of their weight, age, gender, skin colour, and skills. Certain elements in the community can also be a bit...elitist - certainly this is only a very small faction of a generally welcoming

Photograpy community, but it was a desire to go beyond that view that led to the creation of the magazine in front of you Here at the Cosplay Dossier, we believe that as long as you’re respectful, you can cosplay anyone you like - and we’ll help you to be the very best, like no one ever was...(ahem) while doing it. We want to celebrate the best parts of our crazy and wonderful community, by being as inclusive as we can. So, I hope you enjoy the issue, and here’s to many more to come!

Siarlot (aka Tolrais Cosplay)

Thanks to Transwarp Photgraphy, Matthew Spretzel, Alexandra Lee Studios, Bold City Cosplay and Kevin Pack Photography for the use of their images Cover Image courtesy of Les Scott Aston Thanks also to the members of Cosplay Tutorial Hangout, Geek Asylum, Cosplay Connect Uk and Cosplay in the North for allowing me to bombard you all with requests! Special Recognition should also go to the University of Sunderland’s MediaHub for allowing me to basically live there for two months while this magazine was made Thanks also to Josh Hill for not getting mad when I kept bombarding him with random cosplay questions, as well as long-time friend and cosplay buddy Prof for taking the time to make worbla pie for the magazine

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Contents 08

This Issue: Cosplay On A Budget Page 08 Tips to help you bring you cosplay to the next level without breaking the bank...

Time vs Speed Page 12 Cosplayers Andy Valentine and KouYumi Cosplay on the merits of different crafting styles

Colour in Cosplay Page 31 Krissy Victory and Hijabi Hooligan on their experiences as POC cosplayers

Tried and Tested: Page 36 Editor Siarlot Lloyd reviews a Game of Thrones inspired court dress patten...

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Plus: Page 06

What’s Happening News you might have missed

Page 06

Apps for Cosplay There are all sorts of apps out there that are great for cosplayers. Editor Siarlot Lloyd tried out a few

Page 18

Page 22

Photography For Cosplay Cosplay creates unique challenges for photographers. Pros And Cons: Convention Photgraphy

Page 25

Anyone Can Cosplay

Page 26

Body Positivity Cosplayers come in all shapes and sizes. Editor Siarlot Lloyd spoke to two passionate plus-size cosplayers embracing their passion

Page 29

Boldly Going Not only are cosplayers accepting the body positivity movement, they’re taking it further with workshops, panels and more

Page30

Crossplay What goes into crossplay? We spoke to Shawna and Anthony, aka Fantastic Fivey Cosplay.

Page 40

Armour 101 Each issue we’ll be talking to a cosplayer with a particular speciality - this time EVA foam.

Page 41

Armour Class What are the pros and cons of each popular armour material?

Page 42

Worbla pie Bake up your own Armour

Page 44

Makeup: Best Buys And Budget Recommendations to help you tranform your coslay from good to great

Pag 46

Awesome Makeup YouTubers Some cosplayers and creators take their looks to the next level, but these talented people don’t just do that, they go all the way to the moon and back

Page 48

Cosplay Predictions 2018 We teamed up with the rest of the world and try and predict the cosplay trends of 2018...

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What’s Happening? This year’s con season is drawing to close, and it’s been an eventful one! Lupita N’yong’o delighting fans with her ‘undercover’ cosplays at SDCC, thanking them for “allowing [her] to let the little one inside her live again”, while Marvel, DC and others flooded the world with a positive plethora of new film trailers. But here’s some news you might have missed. In Newcastle-Upon-Tyne, Pokémon fans attempted to be the very best and achieve a Guinness World Record. Sunnycon, the largest anime con in the North East of England attempted to set the World Record for the most number of Pokémon characters in one place. Prompted by their booking of James Carter Cathcart (James, Meowth ,Pokémon ) and Michele Knotz (Jessie, multiple Pokémon ) they decided to honour the veteran voice actors with their world record attempt.

Top Apps And Sites for Cosplayers From social networking to planning ahead, there are all sorts of apps out there that are great for cosplayers, Editor Siarlot Lloyd tried out a few... The app is more than just a social network. You can try community created quizzes (and create your own), and there’s also a wiki that anyone can add to. It’s an addictive little app, and the level up system adds a unique twist over other social networking sites. It also has the added benefit of preventing anyone less than Level 5 of creating their own group chats, limiting the possibility of spambots. The only downside to Cosplay Amino is that it’s not the most intuitive of apps, as the search function is tucked away in a side bar, and figuring out how to customise your profile is mostly trial and error.

Cosplay Amino

Amino is a social networking app that’s designed to connect people with the same interests – you can even start your own amino, but the Cosplay Amino is one of the better known. Amino advertises itself as a way to ‘Express yourself, discover new friends and discuss your passion with like-minded people’. It’s actually fairly unique as far as social media goes – you can post blogs and images, but there is also the option to join group chats for specific subsections of cosplay such as, Harry Potter cosplayers, construction techniques and more.

Cosplanner

It’s not the prettiest of apps, but it’s pretty exhaustive in terms of what features it offers. It’s probably best for cosplayers who are on a budget, or who have to plan their crafting around other commitments (like work), or both. As it’s crafted specifically for cosplay, the subsections are very specific: Cosplay Elements is split into To Buy and To Make, with a percentage bar for completion and cost for the bought elements, for example. Other sections include Tasks, for which you can set alarms, Reference Images – you can add up to 10 reference images per cosplay, but if you pay to upgrade the app you can have up to fifty. However, there isn’t an easy way to delete any reference pictures you decide you don’t need. You can also take pictures of the process, and even add a list of events you plan to wear the cosplay at. It’s really useful if you’re on a budget as well, as it calculates the difference between the cost of the item’s you’ve bought and you’re total budget automatically. The one thing that’s annoying about Cosplanner is that the percentage bar for each To Make element is based on guess-work. Left: Cosplanner allows you to see an overview of your progress at any time

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While they didn’t quite get there, due to the Guinness World Records (GWR) incredibly strict guidelines, they definitely fulfilled their secondary goal, which was to find a way “to stand out from similar events, and offering a world record attempt [gave] our attendees a chance they won’t find at any other event this year,” as founder and chair Donna Yeoman said in an interview earlier this year. Sunnycon attendee and GWR attempter James Robson said afterwards, “it was an amazing attempt. Really fun to be part of too.” With many of the con-goers expressing their interest in a repeat next year, who knows, they may just clinch that record in 2018. MCM London will be hosting the Eurocosplay finals in October, and we got a chance to speak to the UK’s representative, KyoKyo Cosplay. She took the prize with a nostalgic costume – Thumbelina from the 1994 Don Bluth film. A six-year cosplayer veteran, she nevertheless feels that “it’s only in the last few years that I’ve really upped my game and ambition for it.”

She thanks her love of the film and the character, as well as her childhood memories with her success. “It really motivated me to want to bring my best for the cosplay, as well as live out one of my childhood dreams,” she said. As for how she feels about winning? “I’m astonished and absolutely delighted. There were so many wonderful cosplays that entered; it’s fantastic to see so many cosplayers bring such wonderful creations to Manchester and the competition. I am beyond amazed that I’ve been given this opportunity and just hope I can do everyone proud.” As for London? Well, you’ll get your own chance to her winning costume for yourself as she explained that: “Unfortunately the timing wouldn’t allow for me to make a cosplay to a strong standard I wish to be at for the finals.” However, she says that she is “very much looking forward to the event, and anticipation lots of fun times.” Kevin Pack Photography

Trello

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Trello isn’t specifically for cosplay. It also fulfils a similar purpose to Cosplanner, in that it’s a planning app. The app uses a system of boards, allowing you to create a new one for each project you have to do. You can then either use the lists it gives you, or add your own, allowing greater freedom than Cosplanner. You can also add checklists to the items that you’ve added – for example, you could add an item as a card, then a checklist for each of the steps in creating it. There’s definitely more freedom in the way you can use Trello, which is good if you’re not a fan of Cosplanner’s limits. Trello also has a desktop version that you can sync between your computer and mobile devices, which is helpful. It’s a little fiddly to work with, but you can add images and other attachments to your cards, and you can also create a team, allowing you to share a board between members of a group - ideal for group cosplays. Trello also offers ‘power ups,’ basically extensions that allow you to tailor your boards to the way you want them, for instance adding a calendar or even GIFs to the board. However, in the free version, you can only add one power up at a time, so you’ll have to pick which best suits you.

Like Trello, Tumblr isn’t specifically designed for cosplayers, but it’s still probably one of the biggest resources in the way of finding tutorials, inspiration and other cosplayers. Forums are growing steadily outdated, while Tumblr is packed with blogs specifically designed to post cosplay content. Of particular note are blog.cosplay-tutorial.com, cosplayblog.tumblr.com and cosplayingwhileblack. tumblr.com. Some especially dedicated blogs will also post high quality reference pics, as well as concept art and break downs that are seriously helpful when planning your cosplay. Some even allow cosplay submissions, like the official Miraculous Ladybug, allowing you to show off your cosplays to other fans.

Pixlr

Pixlr is a photo-editing app that packs a punch. It offers a great deal more in the way of fine control over edits than other apps, such as Instagram or VSCO do. They do share features, including filters, brightness and contrast, and hue, it also offer an exhaustive set of more specialised features, such as spot heals - which is helpful if you make hasn’t quite survived a day at a con or you have a pesky blemish that even make up can’t conceal. Pixlr also offers users the option to add overlays and effects to your images - and again, these are seriously impressive in the variety that you can add. You can also add text in a variety of fonts. While you obviously don’t have to include the last options, they’re ideal if you want a more stylised cosplay photo. Pixlr’s obviously not in the same league as say, Photoshop’s desktop software (though what is?) but for a free app, you get more than what you pay – you can see the difference between the images below, for example. Left: Edited with Pixlr, Right: Unedited Image

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Lillie from Pokémon Sun and Moon Total cost less than £25 Breakdown: White Fabric: Leftover from previous project, £0 Blue Fabric: Charity shop, £2 Interfacing: £3 Shoes: Peacocks, £5 Wig extension: Ebay £6 Socks: Primark£2 Petticoat: Fancy Dress Shop£5 Wig: Bought for previous cosplay, £0

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Cosplay on a Budget Cosplay is an awesome hobby, but for a lot of people it can be daunting – especially if you’re on a budget. But fear not! Creating a low-budget cosplay isn’t as tricky as you would think. Here are some tips to help you bring you cosplay to the next level without breaking the bank...

HOARD LIKE A DRAGON

Most people do this anyway, but it bears repeating – if you have a lot of materials left over after making a cosplay – or another project – save them for future cosplays – and it also goes when planning your current cosplay. For my Lillie cosplay, I bought three items specifically for this cosplay that couldn’t be reused elsewhere: The shoes, the fringe/wig extension and the blue fabric for the collar and under layer of the dress: a grand total of £14. Admittedly, I spent just under £25 when you include the petticoat, socks and interfacing, but they can all be incorporated into or used for future cosplay. Of course you can go even further and not buy anything – like this Infernape cosplay that was made almost entirely of salvaged items. Takeaway boxes can also be used, as KouYumi cosplay explained: “I cut a hole into each Chinese [plastic] takeaway tub to slot a plastic pole through to use as a handle. I then glued the tubs to the inside of the big claws I made out of cardboard to secure the pole onto the claws. So not only is hoarding a good idea, it’s also a good excuse for take away!”

Above: KouYumi’s Takeaway Claws (far left) Inset: The gauntlets as a work in progress

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CHARITY SHOPS

While charity shops might not necessarily be the first place people think of when making cosplay, you can get some half decent stuff there. A lot of charity shops sell bedsheets, for instance, which can be used for fabric (the blue under dress for Lillie (page eight) was a bedsheet that cost all of £2). They’re also pretty good if you’re looking for items that are a bit unusual or dated, like purple trousers. Heck, one cosplayer even saw a wedding dress on sale for £25 pounds before. Also, as nerd blog Dorkitude points out, don’t limit yourself to a character’s exact style: “If you find a dress that looks similar but you want it to not have sleeves, you can cut those off”. One thing to bear in mind with regards to charity shops though - you’re unlikely to find khaki shorts in November or bulky coats in July.

TIME VS MONEY VS SKILL

This concept comes up a lot in cosplay tutorials- for good reason. Basically, , the best cosplays are a mix of a lot of time, a lot of money and a lot of skill – obviously that doesn’t mean that you can’t have awesome but simple cosplays, but as professional cosplay writer Benni of Kamui Cosplay says: “you should always keep your own skills in mind. If you have never made an armour, it can be pretty hard to bring a well armoured warrior to life.” So, before going into your cosplay have a think about what’s feasible for you. If you’re a relative beginner, unless you have about a year to spare, something like Erza Scarlet’s Heaven Wheel Titania armour (below) is going to be little out of your comfort zone. Look at cosplays that can be boiled down to few key elements. If you’re a bit more confident, then great! You can get some seriously cool stuff made in not too much time, especially if you’re willing to be a bit more creative in your materials. (More on that in a moment)

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PLAN AHEAD

This goes back to the Venn diagram of skill, time and money. Budgeting and planning in advance massively helps to make cosplay easier. As geek podcaster Mia Moore points out, “planning helps you determine not only WHAT you need to do, but WHEN you need to do it” This is especially important if you’re buying bits as you go ahead, or you’ve put aside £5 a week for 3 months and then not left enough time to actually make the costume. It might seem obvious, but you’d be surprised how easy it is to forget! You can also use apps like Cosplanner to plan and budget (see page seven). Staggering your purchases is also a good idea. So, you could buy all your prop materials one month, a wig the next, and then small accessories. It’s maybe not the most glamourous method of cosplaying on a budget, but by breaking down your costume into different aspects, it’s probably the best way to make your money go further.

BE SMART IN YOUR PURCHASES

Even on a budget, you’ll probably have to bite the bullet and splash out on a couple of items. Unless you’re gifted with easily dyeable hair, for most people that’s probably a wig. As online magazine Fan/Fic points out, “the quality of wigs vastly improves with price. Cheaper wigs tangle easily and are extremely shiny”. But a good wig is an investment, and should last you years (as long as you take care of it). If you keep a look out for online sales you can get some great deals, and they’re often advertised in cosplay Facebook groups. A heat resistant wig is a good call, as they give more styling versatility. Unless you’re absolutely dying to cosplay a character with pink or turquoise hair – try and look for characters and wigs that can be used in multiple costumes – for example, the blonde wig (left) was originally bought for an Olivier Armstrong cosplay. The other option is to find a cosplay that matches your natural hair, which then means you can splash out on another item of clothing, like shoes. Also get creative with your materials! We’ve touched on using cardboard and recyclables for your props and armour, but there other options too- worbla is most definitely not the be-all and end-all of armour builds there are cheaper alternatives, including craft foam, and EVA foam! If you have time, and an oven, you can even make your own Theroplastic - affectionately dubbed ‘Worbla pie’. There are a few ways to make it, but there are plenty of tutorials online. Also, be wary of cheap fabric - it might only be £1. 99 a metre, but that probably means it’s going to be very see-through. But if your cosplay is simple, sheeting fabric is a great alternative to cheap polycotton, as it tends to be that bit sturdier, and you get a lot more per metre.

Top Row: Daenerys Targaryen (Game of Thrones) Bottom Row: Astrid Hofferson (How To Train Your Dragon)

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Time V

Andy came into cosplay in 2013, with almost no costume crafting skills: “I was about to attend my first comic con and I couldn’t imagine not dressing up. Back then I’d never used a sewing machine, handled leather, foam, or anything that I take for granted today, and during my first ever cosplay construction (Ezio, Assassin’s Creed 2) I fell in love with the process of turning piles of materials into stuff you could wear, and I’ve been doing it ever since.”

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S Speed Siarlot Lloyd speaks to cosplayers Andy Valentine and KouYumi Cosplay about the merits of different crafting styles KouYumi discovered cosplay in 2007, finding cosplayers online when searching for manga volumes. Initially, she didn’t realise that cosplay was a hobby, as she explained: “At first I thought ‘wow, they must be doing a movie,’ until I read about people making their costumes for events on Deviantart. I created an account and was hooked, in awe of people’s cosplay! “ (Photo credit Tom Ruki)

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eryone has their own approach to crafting, and these two cosplayers are no different. Some, like Bournemouth based KouYumi cosplay, have ended up being pretty skilled as last minute crafting – with some amazing results. Others, like professional props maker Andy Valentine, spend months trying to get their cosplays perfect right down to the fabric weave. Andy even caused a splash on Reddit a few years ago with his uncanny Prince Oberyn Martell (Game of Thrones) Cosplay. KouYumi takes a fairly relaxed view to cosplay planning – at least in comparison to Andy, but more on that in a moment. She explained that, “It can completely range from months to days. I’m pretty good at being last minute about my costumes, something my friends joke about, but if it’s a huge project with armour - I try and do as much of the bigger, complicated stuff earlier and leave some easier bits closer to the time. What is hard is my body size is always changing (I do

love me some pizza) and I am constantly putting on and losing weight, so making sure I have time to readjust my outfit closer to the due date is a must for me. “Of course, you never know what can happen and I have experienced ruining a whole costume with an iron before a few days before the con! Being prepared is never a bad thing and if you can make your costume further ahead of time to save you on stress and frustration I would do that!” While simple cosplays only take Andy a few hours or weeks, for more intricate costumes, he can throw hundreds of hours into the crafting process, as he elaborated: “When I’m chasing extreme levels of accuracy and likeness to the original, those can take upwards of 200 hours. My current build - Ragnar from Vikings - is by far the most effort I’ve gone to in order to accurately reproduce every tiny aspect of the original, and I’ve been working for over a year now, rebuilding multiple parts as I learn

“I’d rather keep the sewing machine running slower and nail each stitch than rush and mess up”

new processes and find new references. I expect by the time I finish it next month I will have put in close to 1000 hours of work when you add up all the research and crafting.” And just to add to the time consuming element, Andy grew his hair and beard out long enough to add extensions, which, as he pointed out, doesn’t happen overnight. For both KouYumi and Andy though, their costume creation starts with planning and research, usually a few months before their deadline. For KouYumi, that’s usually looking for costume elements like “wig hunting, fabric samples, detail appliqués, shoes or even tights,” as well as reference pictures, while Andy focuses more on the fine details of reference images before he’s even started. He explained that: “First and foremost, I find every single reference image that I possibly lay my hands on. It’s often a long process of moving through films or TV shows a frame at a time in order to try and get that one shot of one part of the costume at one particular angle. It’s a tiresome step, but when you have a complete collection of images, it puts you in a much better position when you come to start your build.

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Opposite page: Andy’s Work in progress toiles and drapery Right: One of Kouyumi’s prop patterns

“Using Ragnar as a basis I’ve likely spent 80+ hours on this step alone. I know every scene when you see certain items of his costume like the back of my hand and have a collection of photos like you wouldn’t believe. I honestly feel that I can say I’ve spent more time looking at the finite details of that costume that anyone else on the planet.” It’s terrifying and impressive in equal measure, but given the results, you can hardly fault Andy’s dedication. Next up, their processes start to differ a little bit – for KouYumi, it’s when she acquires the expensive items she needs for her costume, as she explained: “I buy the things that will take the longest to get here. The wig is normally something I get first so that I can style it and test it out to see if I 100% suit the character before jumping the gun into putting money into the whole costume.” Andy on the other hand, focuses on getting his pattern pieces assembled. For him, the pattern pieces are a key part of the creative process, as he went into more detail: “Next, I move onto creating the toiles of the various pieces, the pattern mockups. This is really a vital part of the process. I never cut into my fabric until I have a fully fitted pattern that I’m happy with. I tend to be a draper when it comes to making patterns that are

unlike “regular” clothing (take Prince Oberyn’s coat for example), but if it’s based around an actual item like a shir t, I tend to find a similar item at a charity shop, cut them apart and use these to form my patterns. “Sometimes I have to do this process two or three times to get the fit just right, but it’s always worth it in the end, and I’d rather waste 10m of £1 polycotton than £150 of nubuck leather. Similarly, leather armour I construct from craft foam first as it requires a touch of rigidity. When I was working on Oberyn, I estimate this took 60-70 hours as the coat and tunic needed refitting a couple of times as new reference images emerged and I realised I needed to change things.” For KouYumi, order is important for the next steps, especially when creating armour builds: “If it’s an armour build, I would start with the undergarments and move onto the armour, painting, adding braves or straps where needed and finishing off detail bits that are a bit more time consuming. From there I finish any extra bits for the costume like the shoes or accessories.” The way the pattern fits together is especially crucial to remember. “If the blue prints of the build have to fit together in a certain way, i.e. the cape has

to go on before the shoulder pads, I would make it in a systematic order, which is why it’s good to research beforehand!” KouYumi explained. After Andy finishes his pattern mock-up, he moves onto final construction, and it’s here that he takes the most time. “I’d rather keep the sewing machine running slower and nail each stitch then to rush and mess up my calculations or seams,” Andy said. “It’s this step where the fine detailing comes into play.” When trying to nail a pattern exactly, it can be a little frustrating, and when creating his Ragnar cosplay, Andy spent over 200 hours just on armour! “I had to continually go back and forth between the reference images and the build in order to make sure every single weave of the rings had the exact same placement and construction order as the original. It felt like an eternity to complete, but the finished piece was so identical to the original that the effort was all worth it”. He explained. Andy also adds weathering to his cosplays (should they need it) to help add an extra element of realism. “I tend to do this all at once at the very end so that I can ensure any colours I mix for the distressing remain consistent throughout the

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Cosplayer’s best friend: Kouyumi and Andy share their lifesaving tools Andy: Having a laptop or a tablet is a godsend when it comes to comparing your details sideby-side to the originals during your creation process, but on the more affordable end of the scale I’d recommend everyone has either an adjustable or a custom made mannequin, as it’s much easier to shape designs on something else other than when it’s on yourself. There are companies out there who will take all of your measurements, or even 3D scan you now, and create a foam mannequin in your exact shape. Assuming your body shape doesn’t fluctuate that much, these are amazing for creating well fitted pieces.”

Kouyumi: “Your best tool is probably your glue gun. When in doubt, glue the crap out of it! Though I have to say the Heat gun has come in extremely handy when having to reheat certain parts of armour to shape it or attach it to another piece. “If it was for a fabric based costume, I would say your unpicker tool for all those ‘whoops’ moments of possibly sewing the wrong section of your costume- oh and your pin cushion; don’t be like me and constantly lose your pins randomly all over the floor so you step on them later!”

Andy spent hundreds of hours weaving maille links into leather armour

costume and it doesn’t look mishmash.” He explained. “Then that’s it. Ready to strut your stuff.” And don’t worry; if you’re feeling a little overwhelmed by the thought of spending hundreds of hours on creating your cosplay, KouYumi had some advice for any would be last minute cosplayers. “[Don’t] strain yourself, yes you have a time limit but you also need to sleep and eat to function,” KouYumi said. “There’s no need to starve yourself or sleep deprive yourself in order to try and rush a costume that you may not feel the best in. Make sure you plan your days around what you need to do and give realistic time slots to work on the costume. If you can do something like spray paint armour first and then machine sew a dress while that’s drying it will save time. If worst comes to worst you can always safety pin items to clothing, I think I’ve safety pinned a few outfits to bras on the day before as I’d run out of time! As well, using a hot glue gun and sewing machine saves a lot of time when it comes to consuming tasks like sewing on hemming or bias.” At the end of the day, cosplay means

something a little bit different to everyone. For Andy, cosplay is about doing justice to something that he loves: “These days I only tend to cosplay characters I feel a connection to in some way.” He said. “I feel that cosplay is my way to pay homage to these characters and the emotions they evoke in me, so I want to feel that I’m not selling myself short in my effort.” “Also, I’m not one to do things by halves; in work, life, or cosplay; so if I’m going to spend my free time creating something, you can be sure that it’s going to be the very best thing that I can, else what’s the point?” For KouYumi, it’s more fun and comfort, as she explained: “So long as you’re having fun in your costume then that’s all that matters, something that you learn over time. Another important aspect is being comfortable in your outfit, being confident and relaxed in your costume is a massive priority, regardless of what anyone else thinks. No matter what size, skin, gender, cosplay is for everyone and you are the most important person in your life. If you’re happy then that’s what matters most, others people’s opinions don’t.

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Andy as The Lone Wanderer (Fallout 3)

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Photgraphy for Cosplay Photographing cosplayers provides unique challenges that other subjects don’t quite create. But what exactly are those challenges? Talented ‘togs Brett Cooper and VJ Chett share their secrets...

nlike portraiture or fashion, cosplay photograph is unique in the way that its subjects want to recreate a the character their portraying. Not only do cosplay photographs try and showcase their interpretations of the character, often, the cosplayer wants to emphasise the craftsmanship of the costume or a unique twist they’ve added to the costume. Plus, cosplay photographs often have a level of stylistic editing that really sets them apart from ‘normal’ photography. But what exactly goes on behind the scenes to create [something]? I spoke to VJ Chett of Raw Cosplay Photography and Brett Cooper aka Transwarp Photography to find out more. Initially introduced to the scene by his children and their mum, VJ has been photographing cosplayers since 2012. “I didn’t have a clue what cosplay was about, but at that time, I had been learning photography, helping models build their portfolios, all self-taught. The big problem was looking for models to practice shooting with.” VJ told The Cosplay Dossier.

“My kid’s mum told me that there are many photographers there and they just ask to take a photo of the cosplayers and they almost always say yes. So the following con, which was in 2012, I came along with them all and started to ask cosplayers to take their pics. It served to give me confidence in shooting and also to get me the practice in taking portraits, which was what I wanted to do and be as a photographer in general. And, as they say, the rest is history.” Brett is a little newer to the scene than VJ, having been a part of the community since 2014 – and although he’s only been photographing cosplayers for three years, he estimates that he attends around 40 events a year – in the North East of England alone! “I’ve always had a bit of an interest in photography and have snapped holiday photos and the like for quite some time. In 2014, I saw some local film and comic conventions advertised and being a serious trekkie I went along to see what the craic was. I didn’t really know what cosplay was! “Around the same time I bought my first digital camera and completed

a beginners photography course. The two worlds collided and here we are. My photography skills are generally better than my cosplay skills and people seemed to like my photos so I’ve carried on with it.” The two photographers tend to have very different approaches to their work in many ways, including how they find their subjects. Brett tends to a more informal relaxed set up: cosplay photography is his hobby, so he wants to have fun with it. “My shoots tend to happen one of two ways, either a cosplayer will tell me they like my style and ask if I’ll take their photo, or I’ll ask one of my cosplay friends if they fancy a little photoshoot

Cosplay photos often have a level of stylistic editing that really sets them apart from ‘normal’ photography

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Subject Delta (BioShock) Transwarp Photography (Scarborough, April 2017)

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Time Travel Cosplay l as The Flash, Transwarp Photography (SUnderland, April 2017)

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one evening. I don’t advertise myself as a professional photographer and I don’t go hunting for bookings. It kind of just happens organically. I think it takes the pressure off me as the photographer and the cosplayer.” VJ tends towards a more professional approach. “My process is very simple.” VJ explained. “Make contact with the cosplayer, say that you’re interested in doing a shoot with them at the up and coming con, or at a locations if it’s not at the con. “If it’s at a con, I will message them nearer the time of the con and arrange to meet up with them. I know the venue area pretty well so I take them to a certain location, that’s not too crowded and work the shoot from there. I’m looking around at the lighting and surrounding area that I’m in and then just ask the cosplayer(s) to pose in their characters style. If there is a prop about, of course I will use it to enhance the cosplayer. I did a shoot with a SpiderMan cosplayer and since we were near some old brick walls, we did an angle shoot and got him to look like he was climbing the wall.” That said, being a popular cosplay photographer has its drawbacks, as VJ elaborated. “I try to be as creative as I can but since I have many shoots on, I have a limited time with them so a lot of the time most of the shoots are just simple portrait shoots. “It really doesn’t depend on the cosplayer, it’s more about putting the word out there, that I’m going to be at the con and am looking to shoot with cosplayers so get back, or I message some privately saying how much I like their cosplay and that I would like to shoot with them. It’s all collaboration so when we’re shooting we are creating. A lot of these cosplayers really come alive and get into character and that really helps to make the shot that much better.” Those different approaches also play into to the challenges they face

as cosplay photographers. For VJ, the issues that he has to overcome are more technical, but for Brett, the issues are more personal. “I think the unique challenges are in getting the correct exposures for the shot based on the cosplayer’s costume,” said VJ. “Some have reflective materials on them and some can only turn or bend to a certain degree due to their design. So getting the right lighting on them and composition can be a bit of a struggle at times, especially as the lighting can change in an instant, due to the weather.” “It’s different for each cosplayer and photographer.” Brett said. “I think the main challenge is getting the cosplayer at ease with me so we can get shots that look natural and relaxed. Actually knowing all the different characters can be quite a challenge too!” But cosplay photography is about more than just making the cosplayer feel at ease or nailing the technical intricacies of exposure and white balance. Safety is also one of the most important considerations for any cosplay photographer worth their salt. “Safety of the cosplayer, safety of the people around me and safety of myself.” VJ underlined. “I’m not going to ask a cosplayer to hang off a ledge or jump from some steps just to get that special shot. Also, if they don’t feel comfortable doing a certain pose, then we don’t do it.” A cosplayer’s health and comfort is something you should always be aware of – but ‘togs should be careful not to neglect their own health either! “It can get tiring for cosplayers, walking around all day and the heat factor,” said VJ. “Having a medical condition myself, I have to make sure that I’m well too. I make sure that I’m hydrated and have eaten something” Location is important for a successful shoot as well: specifically, finding somewhere the cosplayer is happy shooting, as Brett explained. “I can give a few directions but it’s always nice if the cosplayer knows

“There’s nothing worse than putting a cosplayer into a situation where they feel uncomfortable” where they would like to shoot,” he said “In fact, I was stood at a convention last weekend watching another photographer dragging a slightly confused looking cosplayer into the bushes. There’s nothing worse than putting a cosplayer into a situation where they feel uncomfortable, be it somewhere overly busy with members of the public, or somewhere a bit quiet and unfamiliar.” The other thing you need to watch out for - especially here in the UK, where you can have all four seasons in one day – is the weather. For some cosplayers, nothing is more devastating than watching their hard work get washed away in the rain. There are always other considerations that play their own role in cosplay shoots as well, like time and availability. But capturing the personality of the cosplayer – and more importantly the character they’re portraying is the ultimate challenge. So how do VJ and Brett go about it? “I think all the cosplayers have a bit of the characters personality inside them, and most of the time it just shines out of them.” VJ said. “How I capture it? Well it’s more of waiting for that moment, that look, that pose that really captures my eye. I don’t have to do a lot of directing or anything to bring the characters personalities out. The cosplayers are pretty good at doing that themselves” Brett also thinks trust is an important part of the process, especially if the cosplayer is portraying a character unfamiliar to him.

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“I’ll be honest and say that I have to rely on the cosplayer somewhat. They generally know their characters far better than I do and who am I to tell them any different. I know they all spend hours in front of the mirror at home practicing poses!” Brett and VJ’s differing approaches are also evident in the way they approach their photos after they’ve taken them; in post-production. Brett prefers to leave his photos au natural, as he explained: “I don’t go in for images that have been edited to within an inch of their lives. That’s not to say I don’t think they are good and there are some really

talented photo editors out there. It just doesn’t really float my boat!” VJ on the other hand is a great supporter of digital postproduction. “It comes in a lot and is very important. Since I have studied and passed a certified qualification in photography, post editing was a must and always had to be done. Colour correction, sharpening, exposure and white balance adjustments have been drummed into me to do and also I enjoy doing it.” For VJ, the end result is important on several levels, as he elaborated. “Streamlining my workflow for better efficiency is an important part of a

photographer’s job. Your images are an extension of yourself. It’s what you use to market yourself and to promote yourself. If people like your image, they are going to want to work with you and that’s a great thing in the cosplay scene. Having cosplayers wanting you to take their photos is a big compliment and gives you a good indication that you are doing something right and also makes you feel good and part of the scene. As much as I want my work to look good and professional, I want the cosplayer to look amazing and as brilliant as their costumes are. And as photographers, we should be doing that for them.”

Pros and Cons: Convention Photography Conventions create unique challenges for even the most skilled of ‘togs, but what are they and how can you overcome them? There are all sorts of ways to get and take pictures at cons. You can sign up to cosplay photography groups on Facebook, like VJ. Or wait for an awesome cosplayer to walk past and ASK them for a picture (very important), like Brett. And they’re both familiar with the unique difficulties of pulling off that rarest of shoots – a great con photo. Convention photography is always a challenge, as the photographer has little control over what they are photographing – and venues differ wildly, as Brett explained: “I always like the venues with a large outside area, maybe a bit of greenery or buildings with a bit of character. [It allows] more freedom and a bit of natural light always makes it easier to get a reasonable shot.” “It’s also nice to get away from the hustle and bustle of the con and not have a thousand people in the background of your photo.” He said. “It’s also nice if you can talk to the cosplayer rather than rushing to get a quick shot. I’ve also noticed more and more restrictions being placed on photographers working at the larger events recently and that’s a bit disappointing.“ Outside shots also escape one of the other issues that con photographers face: the crowds. “It can be so annoying when you’re trying to take a shot of a cosplayer and people just walk in front of you.” VJ bemoaned. “I’m sure most of the time they’re unaware but often they see what you’re doing and still walk in

“Don’t be afraid to step into your character’s shoes”

front of the camera. So sometimes you have to get the shot in very quickly and that in turn takes away the composition of the image.” Outside shoots have their own disadvantages – while you might have to compensate for artificial lighting inside the con hall, you don’t have to battle the elements. According to VJ, the weather can be one of the trickiest challenges to overcome. “It may be raining, so that can put a dampener on where you can shoot, or the lighting.” He explained. “Also if it’s cloudy and sunny, that can play havoc with your shots, as you always have to change your camera settings to get the correct exposure.” Another issue is the number of restrictions placed of photographers, as Brett previously mentioned. “Over the last few years, the organisers have said that bringing photo equipment like lights and tripods are not permitted.” VJ elaborated. “So when it comes to having [more creative lighting set ups], you may find that you can’t get the image you want due to not being able to light the subject as you wanted. But you find ways to work around that.” It’s also important to make the cosplayer comfortable, as VJ pointed out: “Some short shoots are just a quick click and go, but when you have one planned and you’re meeting them for the first time, you want to make a good impression and not be too forward when asking them to pose for you.” So what advice do VJ and Transwarp have for cosplayers ready to step in front of the lens? For Transwarp, research is the key: “Have a look at [the photographer’s] social media pages

San, Princess Mononoke, King Con, Transwarp Photography (Sunderland 2016)

and see if you like their style, and chat with other cosplayers and get an idea of what they are like. “ You can also join cosplay groups for photo opportunities, as VJ suggested: “Arrange to meet up at cons or other gatherings and meets and shoots and look at how they pose when they are doing shoots.” Having a clear idea of what you want also helps: “Always have an idea of what you want to achieve. Are you after a specific pose? Maybe you want to focus on the detail of an armour build.” Brett advised. But more than that – have confidence: “Don’t be afraid to step into [your character’s] shoes and feel silly or cautious as to how others will look at you or say about you.” VJ advised. As for Brett? “Don’t be scared to approach a photographer at a con if you’d like a photo. We don’t bite! Most importantly, don’t take it too seriously and don’t forget to have fun!“

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Beci Fae Cosplay as Harley Quinn, Raw Cosplay Photography (May 2017)

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Anyone Can Cosplay Cosplayers come from all walks of life, though some donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get as much coverage as others. So join The Cosplay Dossier as we talk to plus-size cosplayers, cosplayers of colour, and more as we explore the meaning of cosplay

BODY POSITIVITY 26 CROSSPLAY 30 POC COSPLAY 31

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Body Positivity in Cosplay

Despite what some may think, Cosplayers come in all shapes and sizes. Editor Siarlot Lloyd spoke to two passionate plussize cosplayers embracing their passion Helen as BB-8 (Star Wars)

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hile the body positivity movement is growing in popularity in the mainstream fashion world, there are still those in the cosplay community who seem to think that anyone who doesn’t have a ‘character accurate’ figure shouldn’t be allowed to cosplay. Disregarding the fact that you would probably need to be hospitalised for lack of internal organs to be ‘character accurate’ in some cases (Eschergirls on Tumblr have a wonderful archive of some of the worst offenders). At the end of the day, it’s sad that there are still some people who think that they should be allowed to police another person’s passion. But there are also those who refuse to let the narrow-minded hold them back in the pursuit of doing what they love. Helen Walmsley, aka Mystmoon Costumes and Photograhy and The Dark Pixie (who preferred not to give her real name) shared their plus-sized cosplay experiences. Helen is a six year cosplay veteran, having known about the community for years thanks to anime magazines. But I it wasn’t until she was 18 that she had the courage to start cosplaying herself. “I but was too scared to actually do it until I met other cosplayers [at

“You don’t have to be perfect. Your costume doesn’t even have to be the same as the characters”

Helen as Magrat Garlick (Discwordl)

university] through the Japanese Visual Arts society.” She explained. “After that I saved up until I could go to my first con in May of 2011 and I’ve been cosplaying and conning ever since!” Pixie started cosplaying in 2014, and just like Helen, it took the support of her friends to find her cosplay confidence. “My best friend Rob, who is an incredible cosplayer, got me into it. I had always wanted to but thought it was an unwritten rule that plus size ladies couldn’t. Rob told me that anyone can cosplay & was incredibly supportive. I suffer from severe anxiety & it keeps me from doing a lot of things that I want to do. Rob knew that cosplaying would be great for me & help with my anxiety. He was right! “ And while cosplay has helped Dark Pixie to overcome her anxiety, at first, it took an awful lot of courage to go out there – the first time she cosplayed she was “terrified!” “I wasn’t even really focusing on being in character, I just wanted

to prove to myself that I could go out & do it,” Dark Pixie said. “The interesting thing is that by dressing up like Harley Quinn I actually unintentionally channelled her personality. So because of the kind of person Harley is I was significantly more outgoing and talkative then I usually am and had a lot of fun!” While there are those online and in the real world who can be hurtful, in the three years that Pixie has been cosplaying, she has yet to have any malicious comments made directly at her. “I have heard it as a general statement even from people who are also plus size.” She said. “I tell them what I tell myself, this is for fun!” For Dark Pixie, her comfort and enjoyment of the character is the most important thing. “You don’t have to be perfect. Your costume doesn’t even have to be the same as the characters. My first cosplay was Harley Quinn but I wanted to be comfortable so my design wasn’t like anything you see in the comics, games etc. but it was very clear that I was Harley and I was extremely comfortable.”

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But while Dark Pixie has been lucky in never being directly ‘judged’ for being a plus size cosplayer, Helen has been less lucky, as she explained: “More so online, I’ve been featured on an fyeah bad cosplay blog for an unflattering photo, I’ve had commenters ask why everyone in a group shot was fat, I’ve been referred to audibly as the ‘chubby Fluttershy’ “I’ve also been told that if I want to continue to do cosplay competitively, I’ll have to lose weight and that it has led to me being overlooked in judging due to me being less conventionally attractive.” And that mind-set can be depressingly common. “My friends have had much worse, being told they shouldn’t cosplay and being passive aggressively advised to

cosplay characters like Ursula (since she’s already a large character).” Helen said. “I know friends who have never received photos from shoots because the photographer feels that none of them look good (AKA they don’t know how to shoot a larger person attractively, one of the reasons I’ve become a popular tog in my circle).” But despite that lack of understanding from a small minority, Helen is more determined than ever to carry on with her cosplay, thanks to her friendship group. “I’m fortunate in that I have a large support group of other plus size cosplayers,” she told The Cosplay Dossier. “I know I’m loved, I know there are more people who like my stuff than have the time to be cruel about it. I was

scared of doing it alone, which is why I didn’t start until I met other cosplayers. I’m confident in it now to walk in public in them alone.” For both Helen and Dark Pixie the courage to go out and cosplay comes down to one thing: “just do it” they urged any would-be cosplayers. “People make fun of all cosplayers skinny and large, it’s just a case of finding and surrounding yourself with the more supportive parts of the community.” Helen said. “People get scared and annoyed that larger people dare to have the confidence to dress up, and people like that aren’t worth giving up for.” As for Dark Pixie? “It can be scary but I’ve found that truly becoming & staying in character really helps overcome the fear & anxiety,” she said.

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Bold City cosplayers at an event

BOLDLY Going Not only are cosplayers accepting the body positivity movement, they’re taking it further with workshops, panels and more

Dark Pixie as Katana (DC Comics)

“I know I’m loved, I know there are more people who like my stuff than have the time to be cruel about it”

Body positive cosplayers are becoming more and more celebrated within the community, but there are some even going that step further. Amber Rodriguez runs Bold City Cosplay, a Florida based cosplay business that runs anti bullying and anti bodyshaming workshops. Bold City has been running for nearly a year now, having opened in December 2016, and while they do pretty much anything cosplay related. They’re even working on a few wedding ideas! But more importantly for the Body Positivity movement, they’ve also been running panels and workshops on anti-bullying and antibody shaming. “We feel that no one should ever feel left out of something they love simply because they don’t have the body or skin colour for a specific character.“ Amber explained. “This is especially true in cosplay because nerds are one of the most bullied groups of people around. We shouldn’t have to deal with such things in our own community. Seeing such things take place at comic conventions and other cosplay events prompted us to add these subjects as a

“We have had many people tell us how much our workshops meant to them”

major part of our Cosplay 101 workshop.” Bold City Cosplay run two different styles of workshop, one which is panel based and run at conventions by cosplayers that Bold City manage, whereas the Cosplay 101 workshops are free, and held at local schools and libraries. “In Cosplay 101, we discuss all aspects of cosplay. It’s especially good for those who are just get-ting into the scene. Throughout the workshop, we continually bring up the fact the cosplay is for everyone. We discuss bullying at conventions as well as cyber bullying and how to handle these things.” Amber elaborated. “During both the workshop and the panel, we encourage people to participate. Ask questions. Tell us their stories. It helps for others to see that it’s real and we’re not just making things up.” The panels have seen a lot of success, as Amber related. “We have had many people tell us how much our workshops meant to them and thank us for bringing these things to the attention of others in our community.” And just like the Cosplay Dossier, Bold City believes that anyone can cosplay: “Anybody can cosplay. No matter your age. No matter your size. No matter your skin colour. No matter your sex. It’s not about what you look like, it’s about how you feel when you’re representing someone you love and respect.”

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Crossplay “ I like the challenge of making masculine lines work on me”

Shawna

“You don’t need skill, makeup or anything like that, you simply need courage”

Anthony

Crossplay: cosplaying as a gender not your own. With 3000 on its subreddit, it’s not the most popular of cosplay ‘niches’, but there are those that love it nonetheless. A portmanteau of cross dressing and cosplay, crossplay, both male to female (M2F) and female to male (F2M) is still a relatively small subsection of the cosplay community, it’s growing in popularity, with some conventions holding panels and costume competitions specifically for crossplay. So, just what goes into crossplay? The Cosplay Dossier spoke to Shawna and Anthony, aka Fantastic Fivey Cosplay. Shawna, a self-described tomboy, has always been more drawn to male characters, with 75% of her cosplays over the last five years being crossplay. “Dressing in the very feminine costumes of most girl characters is something that is really uncomfortable for me. I like the challenge of making masculine lines work on me.” She broke down her progress, explaining that: “Most of my crossplays start out with me having to make a sketch of the costume so I can figure out the proportions and how they’ll fit.” This is especially important for crossplayers, and generally, the character’s shape doesn’t match the cosplayer’s. “I check where hems fall a lot, and tend to lower the waist of pants, since I’m very high

waisted,” said Shawna. “I also have to think about smoothing out the lines of my chest. I’m rather large chested, but a proper binder is a lifesaver! If you’re new to crossplaying, please think about investing in a proper binder. Worn correctly, and in the right size, they’re your most comfortable bet to keep yourself as flat as possible. Remember, guys have pecs!” While Shawna doesn’t have much experience with M2F, she gave any would-be crossplayer one crucial piece of advice: ‘think of your silhouette! Girls are usually portrayed as curvier, so emphasis the soft curves. Guys are usually more streamlined, with bigger shoulders than hips. If you can get your silhouette correct, you’ll be able to better portray the character!” Anthony fell into cosplay ‘unintentionally’ in 2015, and after he fell in love with it, cosplay became a huge hobby. Currently crossplays make up a quarter of his collection. Unlike Shawna, who prefers male characters, Anthony tends to take a more ‘gender-blind’ view of his cosplays. “Crossplay came to me the same way all the rest of my characters did, I saw a character and just wanted nothing more but to cosplay them, in this case it was Jessie from Pokemon’s Team Rocket, he said. “I knew the cosplay

community was really accepting as everyone was super supportive from the beginning with me being gay so I just went for it”. Anthony tends to be an adjuster rather than a crafter, but he still has his fair share of costume tweaking, as he explained. “Most of my costumes are online bought but there’s been a few times with crossplay specifically that I’ve needed to make adjustments in size. Sadly I’m terrible with any form of crafts but my boyfriend loves cosplay just as much as I do and helps me out, the biggest adjustment to date was replacing the arms on my Celestia Ludenberg blazer with the arms from my old school blazer and finally re-applying the decoration.” And Anthony’s advice for newbie crossplayers? “The one and only tip anyone thinking about doing crossplay needs is this: You don’t need skill, makeup or anything like that, you simply need courage. The hardest part is when you first show up and the run up to it. By the time you’re there you get a few compliments, straighten up a bit and as the day goes on you’re still you, you’re still a great cosplayer and no matter what you’ll be absolutely killing it”.

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Colour in cosplay

Insults and abuse are directed at POC cosplayers far more than any other members of the community. But for some, that only makes them more determined... Krissy as Umbreon (Pokemon) Credit:: Alexandra Lee Studios

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he issue of racism in cosplay is a hotly debated one. From the repeated whitewashing of people/characters of colour (POC) or worse, ‘brown face’ committed by white cosplayers, to horrific racial slurs being hurled at POC cosplayers who ‘dare’ to cosplay as non-POC characters, there’s clearly a lot of progress that still needs to be made. That said, there are steps being made in the right direction, including the hashtag #28daysofblackcosplay, started by Chaka Cumberbatch in 2014 to coincide with Black History Month. In a post on Black Girl Nerds in 2016 she said, “It’s my hope that… it will be a rallying call to arms for a group of people who are consistently subjected to derogatory comments and outright racism in response to doing little more than proudly displaying their love for this hobby. “When we call out racism in this subculture, we are often ridiculed, silenced and told to make a space of our own if we want to see our faces. Challenge accepted. This is how we’ll represent ourselves. This is how we’ll uplift each other. This is how we will make this hobby open, inclusive and welcoming to everyone.” Tumblr pages cosplayingwhilelatino and

cosplayingwhileblack (CWB) have been founded along the same line of thought – celebrating the excellence of POC cosplayers. In an interview with the Daily Dot, CWB founder Chelsea Medea said “[I wanted to] let other black cosplayers out there know that they shouldn’t feel insecure about cosplaying because of their skin.” The Cosplay Dossier spoke to American Krissy Victory, and British Hijabi Hooligan, aka Dania Khalil on their experiences as women of colour in the cosplay community. Both women got into cosplay in college, thanks to their friends, a friendship that for Dania has lasted to this day. Krissy has been cosplaying for six years now, and in that time, has garnered over 19.3k Twitter followers, John Boyega even retweeted her Finn cosplay, one of her proudest moments. It wasn’t the only time one of her cosplays has reached the attention of the originator, as Charlet Chung, D.Va’s voice actor (Overwatch) also reached out to her. “I am also proud to go to panels and so many people reach out about positivity and diversity in cosplay.” Krissy said. Dania also recently hit 16 600 likes on Facebook, and has been featured in several articles celebrating hijabi cosplayers. As a

hijabi cosplayer, Dania has the added task of redesigning cosplays that aren’t covered up to be more covered. “[It’s] always a challenge, but I love it!” She said. And it’s a fairly frequent challenge as Dania has cosplayed as everyone from Wonder Woman to Ezio Auditore (Assassin’s Creed) choosing characters she loves to cosplay or feels inspired by “regardless of their colour or creed”. “My dream cosplay is Princess Zelda’s armoured outfit from Hyrule Warriors”, she said. Krissy also subscribes to the ‘colour blind cosplay’ school of thought, picking any characters that she likes – with one notable exception. “The only thing I purposely avoid to cosplay as Storm because it’s the most commonly suggested cosplay for a black cosplayer and I find it highly cliché and irritating that people put us in a box. That is why I will never cosplay Storm. Everything else is chosen by interest because I don’t care about skin tone when picking a character.” No, the characters’ skin colours never matter to me. I cosplay characters I love and am inspired by, regardless of their colour or creed Due to the prominent positions both Krissy and Dania hold, they are no strangers to the

“I wanted to let other black cosplayers out there know that they shouldn’t feel insecure about cosplaying because of their skin.”

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Krissy as D.Va (Overwatch) Credit: Matthew Spretzel

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Dania as Maria from Assassinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Creed (Credit Transwarp Photography)

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“More people of colour, Muslims and people with disabilities are finding acceptance in cosplay”

racism that still plagues parts of the cosplay community. In Krissy’s experience, racism can often act as a barrier in cosplay. “More people just choose to ignore it they don’t see it as a problem because a lot of Asian and Caucasian people are in focus and faces of cosplay, thus we aren’t thought about,” she said. Krissy in particular experienced a hostile reaction to her D.Va and Wonder Woman cosplays, as she explained. “D.Va was the worst backlash, solely because the character was new and so racists came out the woodworks and bashed me for being black and called me a monkey and told me to kill myself and other nonmoral words.” It’s a problem that’s endemic, as Tai Gooden’s documented the prolific instances of racism in the community in her article, “We Need To Talk About Racism And Sexism In The Cosplay Community” for The Establishment. Dania’s experiences however, have mainly been online only. “I’m lucky to be part of a very welcoming and inclusive community here,” she said. “However, I have experienced racism online in the form of nasty comments and personal messages to both my page and even my

private Facebook account. I find that the best way to deal with people like that is to ignore them and not let their negativity stop me doing what I love!” There have been a lot of steps forward in terms of pop culture diversity of late as well, but does that, translate into increased diversity in the cosplay community? “Absolutely! There has always been a lot of diversity in cosplay but it’s definitely increasing even more now.” Said Dania. “More people of colour, Muslims and people with physical and mental disabilities are finding acceptance and happiness in cosplay and it makes me very happy,” Krissy was less definite, but hopes that it’s a trend that will continue, saying “there are a lot of black cosplayers out there they deserve shine too.” She also thinks that more could be done to improve the accessibility of cosplay to people of colour. “[If it had become more accessible] one of us would have made it to cosplay culture and guesting at giant events by now. When the small steps change then I will say it is more accessible to us.” This exclusion of cosplayers of colour is

definitely a recurring issue, as Manuel Andres Ramirez explored in “From the Panels to the Margins: Identity, Marginalization, and Subversion in Cosplay”. According to Ramirez, Almost all of the celebrity cosplayers at each convention [he studied] were young white women” It’s an interesting contrast, with Dania’s point of view, and perhaps a cultural one, as she said “I’ve always found cosplay very accessible, so I can’t really compare then to now. I can, however, attest to the fact that the cosplay community as a whole is now is showing more diversity than ever before.” So all that considered, what does cosplay mean to Dania and Krissy? “Cosplay is fun to me,” Krissy said. “Being creative and expressing art in a way that works for me personally. I like dressing up with my friends and having a good time. Cosplay is a creative art form to allow me to express myself” As for Dania? “Cosplay to me is a way to escape the trials and tribulations of everyday life, and it brings out my more confident side that is normally hidden. It’s a way for me to channel my creativity too!”

Why Representation Matters: Coverage of POC people in the media remains disproportionately low - which is bad for both to Hollywood and POC communities. While there has been an increase in diversity in sci-fi and fantasy, with John Boyega as Finn in Star Wars and Idris Elba as Heimdall in the Thor series, representation remains a real issue - it’s not for nothing that #OscarsSoWhite exists. It’s not that there aren’t some strides being made. Twitter exploded after official pictures of Zazie Beetz as Domino in upcoming Deadpool 2 were released, while Gal Gadot publically supported Sri Lankan Wonder Women cosplayers after they were trolled. But this shouldn’t be so unusual. Cosplayers are sick of spending ages on their costumes tohear ‘oh cool, a black [insert character name here].’ Come on people, get your act together. Hollywood definitely has adversity problem. According to a USC study in 2016, only 28.3 percent of speaking characters were

POCs, despite making up nearly 40% of the population. That lack of representation also extends to women actors and directors. This absence of any meaningful representation also extends to cosplay as well, as POC cosplayer Daphne Salvador said: “I feel like the media doesn’t cover POC cosplays as much as it should. The media represents the POC cosplay community as much smaller than it actually is with the limited coverage of it”. Daphne also thinks that there should be an increase in colour-blind cosplays, saying: “And when there is coverage it’s usually of POC characters that are being cosplayed (which is not a bad thing, that’s great!) but I would like to see more POC cosplayers dressed as non-POC characters (and viceversa). I very rarely see that in the media”.

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Pattern Review Cosplay patterns are becoming more and more popular, what with supply and demand and all that. But how good actually are they? This issue, editor Siarlot Lloyd reviews a Game of Thrones inspired medieval court dress... Pattern: Simplicity Misses Medieval 1009 Time: approx. 9 Hours (Excluding hemming) Ease of Understanding: 3/5 Accuracy to the original: 4/5 Difficulty Level: Intermediate

It does actually say you need a zipper, .even if it’s tucked away

ith the season finale of Game of Thrones having just passed, and many fans in a frenzy as the hiatus has been extended, I thought it might be a good time to pick a Game of Thrones inspired pattern. The looks for this pattern hark back to season three, back when Sansa was still a prisoner in King’s Landing. And the pattern I chose is based on one of Sansa’s season three looks, although I fully intend to put my own spin on it later.

The Layout Guide and Cutting

The layout guide for this pattern is dizzying. There is one for each pattern variation, as well as a separate one for the lining and godets. It really doesn’t help that several of the suggested fabrics for this pattern are either patterned (like brocade) or have a distinct nap (microsuede), which obviously need to be cut out slightly differently to

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Cutting took up nearly a third of the making time...

make sure of pattern matching. It suggests double thickness for one layout, when only two pieces actually need it, and at one point it confused me so much that I thought I was going to have to go and buy more fabric. If I’d been using a patterned fabric, like the one used for the original dress in the show, I would have probably had to, but the cutting guide on the back takes that into account. As it happens I still have ample scrap left over with which to play. Another confusing thing about the pattern is that there are two sets of bodice pieces – one for sizes 6 and 8, and one for 10 and 12. So be careful not to cut out the wrong one! The pattern paper is also quite fragile. I was super careful when cutting out the pieces, and yet the paper still ripped. All in all, the cutting out of the fabric and pattern pieces took up about a third of the entire production process, which wasn’t great.

The Instructions

Okay, so I will admit that I messed up before I even started this pattern, as I neglected to double check whether I would need a zip or not. Spoiler alert: I did. However it wasn’t until very late on Day 2 of the creation process, after I’d finished putting together the bodice that I realised that I would need one. But… once you know the pattern requires a zip, the instructions become a lot less confusing – the constant referring to the left and right side of the pattern makes a lot more sense when you realise it’s talking about leaving a space for the concealed zip. It really underlines the importance of reading all of the instructions before you even start, so as to avoid my error. There is a list of ‘notions’ on the back – all the extras you’ll need on top of the fabric, but it’s a little tucked away, which is why I missed it. Overall though, it’s not too complicated a

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pattern to follow – I had to alter the sleeves and armpits slightly so they’d fit, but once I’d sorted out the zip debacle, it wasn’t actually too complicated. I didn’t have any fits of frustration, or need to contact anyone more experienced for help in deciphering it. It is definitely an intermediate difficulty though, thanks to the prevalence of curved seams in both the bodice and skirt.

Accuracy

While patterns A and B seem closer in accuracy to Cersei’s gowns than C does to Sansa’s, it still leaves a bit to be desired. For instance, in the show, it looks as if her outfit is in two pieces – an overdress with a split up the middle, which allows you to see the underdress (the second piece underneath). This however, is one intact dress – and if I’d designed the pattern, I’m not sure I would have put the godet so low down, as it looks like an afterthought. As the dresses in the show are wrap or coat based, I also doubt that they would have zips in, concealed or otherwise. It also seems like a lot more effort was put into making A and B match Cersei’s look,

leaving pattern C with less to work with in regards to matching Sansa. And if that isn’t some sort of ironic commentary on the show circa season three, I don’t know what is.

Overall thoughts:

This is a pattern designed for tall people – I took at least 3 inches off of the sleeves and they are still far too long. I know they’re supposed to be, but if they’d been left as-is, I would have had maybe 8 inches of excess at the end of my sleeves. It might be fine in Westeros, not so much at a con, where you need to be able to use your hands. That said, you could easily hide an emergency pocket in the lining of the sleeves and no one would know. It’s also a very comfortable dress, and is a fairly generous pattern, size-wise. I added a little extra width into the bodice, as I’m used to Burda patterns, which are not so kind to women with curves. Having now made the pattern, I didn’t need that extra allowance at all – in fact I’m looking at a way I can tailor it back in. While I didn’t make either A or B, this would definitely be a better pattern for a Cersei

“You could easily hide an emergency pocket in the lining of the sleeves and no one would know” cosplayer than a Sansa – though there are other dresses in the Misses Medieval that do Sansa’s dresses better justice, including one based on her Alayne Stone persona. However, you could definitely tweak the pattern slightly and make it more accurate – all you’d have to do is fasten it at the front and leave out the godet, leaving it as a split for an underdress to poke through. As for my personal plans for the dress – I’m going to add knotwork to the neckline to evoke the Northern fashions we see in season one – and I think that, plus a crown of winter roses will help create a pretty good Lyanna Stark look – after all, the benefit of cosplaying a barely seen character is that you have a lot more freedom with her look!

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While the pattern may look as epic as the locations in Game of Thrones, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t many Westeros worthy locations near TCD HQ...so we had to get creative

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Armour 101

Over the next few pages, we’ll be having a look at armour. One of the most popular types of cosplay armour is a skillset all of its own. Each issue we’ll be talking to a cosplayer with a particular speciality - this time EVA foam.

ce Marine Armour

David (left) in his Spa

Cosplayer: David O’Neil Speciality: Foam Crafting

Warhammer 40K is always a popular inspiration for Armour Builders, (or maybe it’s the other way around?) and David O’Neil is no different. “I got into calling dressing up cosplay only a few years ago when I was attending Sunnycon 2 in 2013, “ he said. “A friend of mine had suggested we all attend. He also suggested I cosplay as he knew I loved Halloween anyway (any excuse to dress up), he also suggested I make my costume as that was ‘the done thing’, so I did. I made

“Every armour build is different”

a set of armour from Warhammer 40k, an Imperial Guard that I thought was rubbish. I also altered a jacket for my girlfriend (now wife) and made some props (guns and swords etc.) and sourced some clothing.” “When we attended the con, the compliments from people on our cosplays was constant and very uplifting, not one negative attitude among the bunch.” That positivity then sparked David on to cosplay. “The whole experience was such a positive one I immediately felt I would be doing this again. As for specifically armour making that wasn’t really the focus at this point. I had got carried away during the convention and had boldly claimed I would do a space marine next year......sigh. “So after the con I set to learning about how to play with EVA foam properly as this was the material I had made my Imperial guard armour out of (they were just “garage mats” to me at the time). “After one makes an entire space marine (some hundred square feet of surface) there’s not much you can’t do with foam at that point.” And not only is EVA foam the first material he used for armour builds, it’s also his favourite, as he explained. “Of course, I use other things; Worbla and other thermoplastics, the reasons for using the different materials is simply a matter of practicality. Do I need a thin shell with good rigidity? Then I’ll use a thermoplastic, am I doing large basic construction with thick plates? I’ll use 12 mm EVA” When it comes the actual crafting side of things, David doesn’t really have a set process. “Every armour build is different; sometimes I’ll download model templates in various formats, sometimes I’ll make my own and

sometimes I’ll just hack away at a piece of foam till I like the shape then do a neat one. “However, you will need images, a model if you can get one and a body form. Even if you have templates, this needs to fit you or whomever you’re making it for.” If your making armour for yourself, this is where a crafting buddy comes in handy: “For fitting...you need to do this as you go and be able to take pictures or have someone take them for you- even if you have a body form that form doesn’t move, you do. This isn’t as important for the big stuff as it mostly isn’t touching you, it’s attached via strapping and hinged with simple exoskeletal parts. At the end of the day at this stage there is a lot of trial and error to make the armour work.” So, once you got all the pieces together – how can you finish off your armour? “Finding a good sealant has been the biggest problem. You need something flexible that will take paint, and the two are often contraindicated. I’ve used roofing rubber, latex, PVA, wood glue and they all have pros and cons.” According to Tab Kimpton of Khaos Kostumes, latex, for instance ‘smells f***ing bad’ and has ‘horrible sealing methods’. “However, you can now get sealants specifically for use with cosplay from a variety of places,” David told The Cosplay Dossier. “I’m trying out one called flexbuild on my current build (when I get to that stage) if you can’t afford a compressor and air brush use a roller to fill large spaces and a large brush for highlighting. I’ve not done much over sealing as I tend to use rubberised industrial paints and add acrylics for colour. However, while the paint technically stays on in the rain, all the pigment leaches out - not a good result! So I would clear coat after painting.” Thanks, David!

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Armour class: Weighing up your materials Each type of armour crafting has its own supporters, but what are the pros and cons of each popular armour material? Cardboard

For a lot of people, cardboard is considered the ‘beginner material’ as it’s cheap and easy to replace if you mess up. That said, it would be remiss not to mention that many cardboard cosplayers use template sharing website Pepakura, which allows you to print out incredibly detailed templates - like origami on steroids. The benefit of cardboard is that out of all the materials listed here, it’s the cheapest and easiest to come by. It’s also easy to paint, and depending on what primers and sealants you’ve used, it’s also lightweight. And if you treat it probably, a cardboard helmet can even bear your weight! So while yes, it is a beginner material, that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Of course, it entirely depends on how elaborate your costume is. However, as Cosplay Tutorial says, “it isn’t exceptionally strong, it has difficulty forming curves, water is a major weakness and it doesn’t last a long time in higher use areas.” Not to mention, if you’re using Pepakura, it takes almost ten times as long to create the same prop in pepakura as in foam, as one intrepid cosplayer found out. Above and Right: Pepakura allows you to build incredibly elaborate costumes from paper

Thermoplastics

According to Svetlana of Kamui Cosplay, it was actually initially used in the shoe industry, before some enterprising cosplayer used it to make armour from. Since its first real arrival on the cosplay 2012, I’d say it’s pretty much become the catch-all term for most thermoplastics. According to Svetlana, the pros Credit: Niresse Cosplay of worbla are as follows: ‘great for beginners, available pretty much anywhere, many tutorials available. The only con she sees is its rough texture, but other Thermoplastics, such as Black Worbla, which was made with costume makers in mind, have a much smoother finish. Other Thermoplastics include CosplayFlex , Thibra, Wonderflex and TranspaArt. (You can read more about the different types of Thermoplastic on Kamui’s website.) Thermoplastics also tend to be on the pricier side in comparison to foam or cardboard (though not leather, obviously)

Leather

Leather is a bit controversial, but it also has unique benefits, as professional leather worker Tom Prust explained. “It’s a wonderful, but sometimes challenging, material. Lighter chrometanned, or ‘clothing weight’, leathers are superior to PVC/’pleather’ alternatives in comfort- they allow air and heat to flow through rather than trapping it- and are harder wearing than PVC and vinyl fabrics.” According to Tom, you can also make leather look like steel plate, but given the cost, worbla or foam is a better choice – one of leather’s biggest drawbacks is the price (£60 ($76) minimum). It’s not the only one, either. “Being tougher than cloth or PVC means you need specialised tools,” said Tom. “Chrome-tanned leather is easier to work with, a sturdy leather needle can be attached to a sewing machine to machine stitch it, but veg-tan and other leather types require specialised tools. This means a bigger investment of time and money to become proficient at working leather, and leather isn’t cheap to begin with! It also isn’t as easy to repair as cloth, or as easy to care for as PVC/vinyl- if it’s left damp in a cupboard it can rot, if it’s left somewhere dry and hot it will dry out and crack.” So, if you’re willing to invest time, money, care and attention into your craft, and you’re not ethically opposed, leather is a uniquely versatile material.

Foam

The two main types of foam that cosplayers use are usually given the umbrella terms of EVA foam (usually found in the form of foam mats) and craft foam (thinner foam easily acquired in craft shops). Some people also use foam board to create their costumes, but according to David, ‘it’s very unforgiving to work with and the fumes when heating smell like plastic death - so “use extraction and a vapour mask...A good one.” As for EVA foam, he thinks it’s “easy as hell to work with, and very forgiving. Another pro of using foam is that you can also get it to look like leather - Evil Ted Smith on YouTube has a great tutorial.. On the other hand, you do end up with lots of waste material, and you will also need a heat gun to work with foam. However you need one to work with thermoplastics as well, so a heat gun is probably a sensible investment.

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Worblapie WARNING: Sawdust is highly flammable and thermoplastic gives off cyanide and carcinogenic smoke when it burns. So you’ve GOT to watch it when it’s in the oven, preferably with water easily to hand. (A vapour mask might also be a good call). If you easily burn food cooking you might want a helper who’s competent.

orbla is a thermoplastic that in the last few years has become ubiquitous in cosplay, especially for armour and props. It’s impossible to go to a con without seeing it employed in multiple costumes. However, it’s not always the easiest (or cheapest) to get hold of. But that doesn’t mean you can’t make your own - affectionately dubbed ‘worbla pie’ (because you bake it yourself - get it?). Co-founder of The Cosplay Dossier Blog, Prof, made their own to find out whether the DIY version can hold its own against the real thing.

First off, you will need: A Rolling pin, sawdust, thermoplastic polymer beads, a jug for mixing them, greaseproof paper, and a baking tray.

Mix your sawdust and polymer beads evenly

The next part of the process is a bit repetitive, but it’s necessary if you want good results, as Prof explained. “Rinse and repeat taking it out and rolling flat and folding until you have a more homogeneous consistency with no loose sawdust and lumps of plastic. “It took me four folds to get it to where I wanted it, it’ll be less if your sawdust is finer and more if it’s coarser - it looked kind of like flapjack at that point!” So that’s something to bear in mind, although bear in mind that pet sawdust, the type that’s used for animal bedding won’t work for this, and the stuff you can buy at model shops is a little over-priced.

Your ‘Ingedients’

The process itself is pretty simple. Prof says: “Mix up about equal volumes of the plastic and sawdust, I’ve used about half a litre of each. “Then spread them evenly in a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper. “Put it in an oven somewhere between 70 and 100 degrees.” (That’s Celsius, for any American readers). “When the beads turn clear and feel tacky take it out and put another piece of greaseproof paper over the top and put it all on a flat surface and roll it together. “Once it’s a more cohesive lump it’ll still break in places there’s more sawdust as it doesn’t mix quite right anyway so you want to fold it over and put it back in the oven till it’s soft again”.

Lay out your worblapie on the tray - use baking paper to avoid sticking

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“The amount I used meant I actually cut it in half and finished by rolling out only half of it,” Prof says. “The other piece was wrapped up and put to one side for later, but if you want a thicker price that’s unnecessary. “If you wanted it thinner like I did, around 5mm, you can only roll it out as large as the tray so there’s a bit of eye-balling it and deciding based on what you want to use it for.” 5mm is about the thinnest you can easily get the worbla pie with a rolling pin, which is about twice as thick as shop bought worbla. We did joke that you might be able to get a better result with a mangle... But they’re not exactly common place these days! As for the type of wood used, Prof made two batches, one of iroko wood, a type of dark African hardwood, and beech wood, which is lighter, though still a hardwood. Interestingly, that actually had an effect on the finished worbla pie.

Left: The beech sawdust worblapie Right: The iroko sawdust worblapie

Worbla pie has pros and cons, just as regular worbla does. Inch for inch, worbla pie works out that bit cheaper, as Prof estimates that all three sheets cost a combined £12 (though they made their own sawdust.. On the other hand, cosplay thermoplastics tend to cost around £30 ($40) for an average sheet. Worbla pie does take longer though, since you can get straight on with crafting as soon as your worbla arrives. So what are the other benefits of going DIY? “It’s much sturdier and has more weight due to being thicker, plus it’s easier to get something with volume from it,” Prof says. “I imagine making something an inch or more thick from worbla would be a nightmare, with this you just fold over your sheet. “Despite being thicker though it still cuts with decent scissors although I did have to use tin snips on the thicker bits.” So there you have it, if you feel like going 100% DIY on your next cosplay project, you can - provided you have an oven of course!

Make sure to keep an eye on your Worbla pie - remember the safety warning!

“Darker wood seems to work better as it heats quicker, finer dust gives a smoother finish but doesn’t take primer as easily so again, a bit of personal decision there,” Prof says. And that’s about it, it’s a pretty simple procedure, it just takes patience. With regards to timing, Prof reckons that “the smaller A4 sized darker sheet (pictured, far right) took about an hour, the larger A3 sheets, (pictured right) took about 2 and a half hours as they had to spend about 15 minutes in the oven between working as opposed to 5 with the smaller one. A ‘ s for working with it, it can be cut with scissors when pliable really easily so cutting out the rough blade shape of the dagger took about 2 minutes.” Prof initially cut their teeth making props using just polymer beads, which did had some good results, but was tricky to work with. In comparison, “the sawdust seems to make the worbla pie more workable, as it stays softer for longer and doesn’t feel overly hot in your hands compared to just the pure plastic”. But is it worth it? Well that really depends what you’re looking for.

Starting off with a thicker thermoplastics makes prop making easier - like this work in progress Ebony Dagger from Skyrim

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Opposite Page, clockwise from left: Urban Decay Naked Palette, Bare Minerals Selection, Primer, Setting Spray, e.l.f foundation

Makeup: Best Buys and Budget

While costume is literally in the name, what separates a good cosplay from a great cosplay is makeup - especially where photos are concerned.

hile I’ve been cosplaying for the best part of five years now,it was only recently I started to get into the makeup side of things and I’m still a novice, though very willing to learn. So, I will put you in the hands of someone more capable - Lee Gunter, admin of Cosplay Make Up Tips on Tumblr, for a more experienced view. Keep reading for some hints, tips and recommendations on how to make your cosplay make up pop! For starters, one of the most important things for cosplayers to know with regards to makeup is that you probably won’t be able to look exactly like the characters you’re cosplaying, Lee explained. “Things will always look different, especially if the character is from a cartoon or an anime. However, as you practice more and refine certain aspects, you will eventually reach a look you’re happy with. It may not look identical to the source material, but that’s what makes it your cosplay,” Lee said. Admittedly there are some makeup wizards out there, like Alyson Tabbitha on YouTube (who I’m pretty sure has made some sort of Faustian pact, the level of her stuff is just. WOW), but that shouldn’t put you off if you’re less experienced – think of it as inspiration – after all, everybody has to start somewhere, as Lee pointed out. “Another thing is that you don’t have

to be perfect at makeup or use the most expensive brands out there. Everybody starts from the beginning, and they only gain the skills they have through many hours of practice and learning. There’s nothing wrong with asking a friend to help you with your makeup, or with using the cheaper drugstore brands. Cosplay is for everyone, regardless of skills or money.” So what brands out there can help you to bring your A game? I’m sure most cosplayers out there have been tempted by cheaper eyeliner, lipstick or shadow, only to have their ‘face’ wear off long before the end of the day. Here’s what Lee recommends: “Urban Decay is a good brand, especially for longevity and bright colours in a range of cosmetics. I would highly recommend their eye shadows as they blend well, and stay vibrant throughout the day. However, they are rather expensive: for example, the Afterdark eye shadow pallet is £39.50 ($49) on their online store. While it does last for a long time, it may be slightly out of the price range for some cosplayers. “MAC Cosmetics are also a good brand, especially for coverage and longevity, but like Urban Decay, they are pretty expensive. If cosplayers are able to afford either of those brands, I do recommend buying them. Their foundation is also very good for long-lasting coverage.”

But just because these brands are expensive, that doesn’t mean there’s no alternative. Thanks to online stores like Temptalia, you can save money and still look awesome, as Lee elaborated. “They have] something called a ‘Dupe List’, in which they can often find similarlycoloured (and a similar finish) makeup for a much cheaper price. This is a perfect tool for cosplayers on a budget, as the dupes are often a lot cheaper and look nearly as good as the expensive counterparts.” So while Urban Decay and MAC may be out of the price range of some cosplayers, what’s out there on the cheaper side? “eye lips face (e.l.f ) are a cheap brand that is often found at most drugstores, and can be delivered to most countries across the world,” Lee told The Cosplay Dossier. “They’re a popular brand among many cosplayers, for not only their price, but their quality too. “NYX Professional Makeup is also a popular brand. Although slightly more expensive than e.l.f, their makeup remains bright and lasts for a while, as well as offering great coverage! “Clinique is a good brand for hypersensitive skin, as most of their products are hypoallergenic and fragrance-free. They’re a little bit expensive, but their stuff lasts for a long time and gives really good results! BareMinerals are also a good brand, even though they’re not as well known. They focus

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on creating makeup that nourishes skin, while some of the bigger brands focus on makeup that looks good even if it dries out the skin.” And while the type of makeup you buy will make a difference to your overall finished look, there are a couple of other things that will help to kick it up a notch. “Makeup primer is your friend. Although it may seem redundant to apply before you apply anything else, it really does make a big difference. Not only does it help to ensure that your makeup stays on longer, but it ensures that your foundation/face paint will lie smoothly on your skin.” But foundation and primer aren’t the only tools in a cosplayer’s arsenal – if you want real lasting power, setting spray is also vital tool, as Lee explained. “They’re sold pretty cheaply at most drug stores, or you could spend a little bit more for a well-known brand. That is entirely up to you. However, definitely buy setting spray - especially if you are using face paint. Face paint is known for rubbing off, and this is made worse once the cosplayer has begun to sweat at a convention. Ben Nye offer a matte setting spray that is about £9.99 ($8). “If you’re not too keen on setting spray, you can also buy setting powder. While this may be more difficult to find in drugstores, it may be better for body paint, as you’re able to ensure you’ve covered everything and

minimise the risk of your body paint rubbing off on something (or someone!) A good brand for setting powder is Ben Nye, which often has to be ordered online. It’s rather cheap, with Red Carpet FX stocking it for £8.99 and Camera Ready Cosmetics stocking it for $7.” And that brings us on face and body paint, which with the popularity of shows like Steven Universe and games like Overwatch are more popular than ever. So here’s what you need to know to avoid rookie mistakes: “For face/body paint, the cheaper brands like Snazaroo won’t be your friends. “Most water-activated paints will come off when you sweat, even if you set them with powder. However, the cheaper brands will come off a lot more,” said Lee. “Brands such as Mehron Paradise and DiamondFX paints are the better wateractivated paints. They also normally come in little palettes, which make mixing colours a lot easier. “Personally, I would recommend Skin Illustrator. They are not cheap (normally in the range of $40-$50) but they are a professional brand. However, they’re an alcohol-activated brand so you have to buy alcohol too. They have an amazing staying power, and are perfect for more intricate body painting. One warning though, is that as they are alcohol activated you need to be careful not to get

“It doesn’t matter how expensive your makeup is, if you don’t set it then there is a very big chance that it won’t last the day” them in your eyes! This would sting. A lot.” And if setting cosmetic makeup is important, that goes double for body paint. “Using something to set your makeup, be it Ben Nye powder or setting spray, is nearly essential. It doesn’t matter how expensive your makeup brand of choice is, if you don’t set the makeup then there is a very big chance that it won’t last the day.” But regardless of what brands you use, or how much character research you have, you’re still not going to get all that far without a good foundation (I’m sorry. I saw the opportunity and I took it).

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Best Makeup YouTubers you should check out right now Some cosplayers and creators take their looks to the next level, but the talented people below don’t just do that, they go all the way to the moon and back

Credit:Alyson Tabbitha (YouTube)

Credit: Elliemacs sfx (YouTube)

Alyson Tabbitha This is one seriously talented lady. Yes, you read that right, the Depp-alike above is amazingly talented cosplayer Alyson Tabbitha. Until I came across Tabbitha, I didn’t actually think it was possible for a human to have skin as flawless as a CG rendering, but Tabbitha definitely comes close. The best thing about her tutorials is that they’re less FX based, and she doesn’t use much specialised makeup, just eyeshadows and creative shading.

Ellimacs SFX Swedish duo Ellinor Rosander and Macs Moser make up Elliemacs SFX. They specialise in horror inspired looks, including some unique twists on Disney Princesses. They’re very fond of liquid latex, but other than that, they use mostly household items. One thing I particularly like about Ellimacs is they start their tutorial with a breakdown of skill level, prep and application time, as well as money spent. They also tell what you need before you start, which is helpful.

Credit:Alyson Tabbitha (YouTube)

Credit: Dope211 (YouTube)

Promise Phan (dope 211) Promise Phan (above right) isn’t just limited to one style of makeup video - as well as cosplay tutorials, she also tests products, does ‘Power of Makeup’ videos as well as some seriously trippy Halloween looks. (Check out her Double Vission Make Up look!). Good news for Disney fans though, most of Promise’s cosplay videos are Disney based, including more obscure characters like Jane Porter, Megara and even Mother Gothel. She’s been on YouTube for seven years, which means she has plenty of videos to go through. Taryn Leigh Tong, a longtime fan said ‘She does amazing transformations with her awesome make up skills’.

Above: Micellar Water is ideal for makeup removal Below: Temptalia.com offers a dupe list with cheap alternatives to expensive brands

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Makeup can dramatically change everything from eye shape to gender! (Credit: @Tiny _Walrus)

“Though expensive cosmetics may help you achieve your desired look, you won’t be able to do anything without basic makeup skills. Spending time on perfecting basic skills before beginning your cosplay makeup journey will definitely help you in the long run,” Lee said. “There’s no shame in going to a makeup store to ask for tips, or in watching YouTube makeup tutorials. “Another thing you need to ensure is that your makeup isn’t out of date. Even if you bought an expensive bottle of foundation and only used half of it, if it is out of date then you wont be getting the best possible look,” Lee explained. Patience is also a massively important part of good cosplay makeup, as Lee explained. “You’ll have to try out makeup looks dozens of times before you’re anywhere near the level you want to be. Don’t expect to be perfect first time. Even famous cosplayers have to try out a specific look many many times before they even show their fans. And it’s fine if you can’t get the makeup to look the way you want it to. It’ll come with practice.” And of course, at the end of the day, you’ll need to take all your makeup off to help save your skin. But makeup wipes aren’t

necessarily your friend, as Lee told The Cosplay Dossier. “Makeup wipes are often good for getting little bits of makeup off, but they can often be quite rough and harsh on your skin and if you’re removing a lot of makeup, this isn’t exactly ideal. Personally, what I use is hot water and then micellar water. There are many different brands, but they all do the same thing. Run a bowl of warm/hot water and soak a flannel/cloth in it. Use this to gently pat and rub at your makeup until is smudging. This normally means that whatever you’ve used to set it has come off. Then wet some cotton pads with the micellar water, and use this to wipe off remaining makeup.” Skincare is especially important when using cosplay makeup, as heavy makeup can clog the pores and cause breakouts – and according to Lee, so can coconut oil, so it’s probably not the best thing for makeup removal. And finally: “Once you think you’ve gotten all of your makeup off, I definitely recommend showering - just to ensure it has all come off,” said Lee. So there you have it, with a bit of patience and the right tools, you too can become a cosplay makeup wizard.

Top: Skin Ilustrator Flesh Tone Palette Middle: Skin Illustrator FAX Palette Left: Snazaroo Body Paint - what NOT to use

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Cosplay Predictions 2018 The biggest struggle for any cosplayer is seeing a new film, show or game character and having to control the NEED to cosplay them. And 2018 looks set to be full of said characters. So we thought we’d team up with the rest of the world and try and predict the cosplay trends of 2018... Characters come and go, but some things stay the same – namely the fact that there are always one or two characters that seize the cosplaying public’s imagination and flood the con scene for a season or so. In 2014, you couldn’t move without tripping over at least a dozen Elsas, and of course last year Harley Quinn arguably took the top spot for most cosplayed character (though the cast of Star Wars gave stiff competition. Of course, films are just one small segment of cosplay inspiration, with cosplayers trying on characters from Steven Universe, Overwatch and Game of Thrones over the last couple of years as well. But what properties will take the top spots this year? The Cosplay Dossier took to social media to hear your predictions.

Cartoons There has been a bit of renaissance in cartoons recently, with the writers being more willing to explore themes that appeal to a broader audience than just the kids they’re aimed at. Which is probably part of the reason there have been so many awesome cartoon cosplays in the last few years. French-Korean cartoon Miraculous Ladybug has definitely proved popular with cosplayers, and with season two (hopefully) set to air soon, we’ll probably see even more next year - especially as the show is set to welcome at least two new characters this year. There are even cosplayers of a breakdancinginspired Alternate Universe (AU)! That said, it’s still fairly niche, i ck!”

“I’m Pickle Ri sh, Twitter Credit: @CaptCa

Credit: Netflix

so it probably won’t clinch the top spot. Interestingly, according to the denizens of the internet, you seem to think that Rick and Morty will take the top spot with Twitter user semanticpoety saying: ‘I *want* Steven Universe or Star cosplay to be big, but Rick and Morty seems to be huge right now.’ A quick look on line shows a huge variety of Rick and Morty cosplays as well - form the simple to the disturbingly elaborate.

Steven Universe was also a popular choice, which isn’t surpring, it has a hugely diverse cast to draw inspiration from. Star (Star vs The Forces of Evil) didn’t alas garner anywhere near as much interest, tying with Voltron: Legendary Defender, Season Four of which is set to air in October. If you’re a fan, you should definitely check out Evil Ted Smith on YouTube - he has a paladin helmet tutorial with Pidge’s voice actor, Bex Taylor-Klaus!

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Film There are a ridiculous number of blockbusters coming out over the next year. Starting off with Thor Ragnarok in October, (the first of four Marvel films released in the next year) followed by The Last Jedi in December (RIP Carrie Fisher). Justice League and Aquaman are coming out in November and December respectively, though they’re the last DC films with a confirmed release date at the moment. For fans of classic manga Fullmetal Alchemist, (and its equally popular anime adaptations) the live action version is slated to air in Japan in December, but as of yet there is no official date

set for the rest of the world. Personally, I hope it’s soon – one of my first cosplays was from FMA and the new live action Lust look amazing. Another film out next year is the long awaited sequel to The Incredibles – which proved surprisingly popular on Twitter, with one user describing the cast as ‘the most enduring group of character in Pixar’s canon’, while another described himself as being ‘very here for Edna Mode cosplay,’ (And who can blame him?). However the most popular character proved to Black Panther, and it’s not hard to see why. While he’s not the first black major character to appear in the MCU, (Nick Fury, Sam Wilson aka The Falcon both appearing before him), and he’s not the first to receive a standalone series (Luke Cage holds that honour), he is the first to have their own film, a huge stepping stone on the road to representation in mainstream film (though of course we’re still waiting on Captain Marvel, which isn’t due ‘til 2019).

Video Games The release schedule for next year is actually pretty quiet - bar Red Dead Redemption 2, there are no other hugely anticipated games out in 2018. That said, this year’s games look like they made enough of an impact to influence next year’s con season. Aloy, the red headed hero of Horizon Zero Dawn proved popular, and that’s likely to continue into next year with fans waiting on the Frozen Wilds DLC set to release in November this year. For those looking for inspiration, just head to Twitter to see multiple takes on the character whose look is perhaps best described as ‘Cyberpunk Viking’. Fitting in with the theme of popular games this year means popular cosplay next year, Overwatch is still up there - but it’s a new relatively new addition to the roster that has a lot of cosplayers interest. Doomfist, added to the game in July, has garnered

a lot support. Blizzard brought their own Doomfist cosplayer to San Diego Film and Comic, to the excitement of fans, and one particularly inspired coplayer suggested that Terry Crews cosplay as Doomfist.

Doomfist Credit Blizzard Entertainment

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TV Shows

While Game of Thrones hype is still high off the back of the seventh season, for those not caught by the bug, you’ll be pleased to know it didn’t fare so well in comparison to the other suggested cosplays. That said, it’ll be incredibly surprising if we don’t see at least some GoT cosplays, as Twitter lost its collective mind after seeing Daenerys’ winter coat, and one fan has already drafter a pattern for one of her other season seven looks. With the release of The Defenders miniseries on Netflix, it would be fun to see some group cosplays. No, the TV cosplay that proved most popular on Twitter was the 13th Doctor. There’s already been a massive surge of people cosplaying this history making Doctor, and the Time Lady herself is delighted with the cosplays out there so far, describing them as ‘amazing’ and ‘absolutely brilliant’ in a BBC interview.

Credit: Doctor Who YouTube

Anime and Manga In the last two years, three of the most popular long-running manga series have come to an end, Naruto in 2015, Bleach in 2016 and Fair y Tail in summer this year. While Naruto did follow up with spin off Boruto, it’s nowhere near Naruto’s popularity - so it’s unlikely that conventions will be seeing any Borutos Saradas or even adult ninja from the original series. It’d be a pretty cute family cosplay though. Boruto may be Naruto’s literal follow-up, but spiritual successor Boku No Hero Academia (My Hero Academia), fared much better. Boku No Hero is the story of a world where super powers or ‘quirks’ are the norm, and those quirks manifest in some unusal ways, creating character designs that are great for any cosplayer who fancies a challenge. Nanatsu No Taizai (Seven Deadly Sins) also proved popular, with some awesome group cosplays out there. However, enthusiasm for Nanatsu No Taizai may die a little next as the fate of future anime seasons remains uncertain. That said the manga has arguably only just hit the amount needed

for a second season, so it could just be they want to avoid long filler arcs or rewriting the plot entirely (looking at you Bleach and Fullmetal Alchemist). However, it looks like nostalgia combined with new characters won out, with most of those asked touting Pokémon Sun and Moon as the most popular anime cosplay on 2018. It’s even been recently

Team Skull Cosplayers at SunnyCon 2017

announced that first season characters Brock and Misty are returning, though they may look very different in Sun and Moon’s art style! Female characters are proving especially popular, with one twitter user, josketh saying “I hope a fleet of women come together to cosplay as all these bad ass women from Pokémon Sun and Moon at once.”

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