6 minute read
55 Vine and Shine
from Cove magazine
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY MARG OSBORNE
VINE AND SHINE
The Granite Belt wine region forms an integral part of the Queensland Vine and Shine Trail.
A TRIP TO QUEENSLAND’S GRANITE BELT is one of our favourite car journeys.
While it’s not possible to visit each one of the 50 or so wineries in a long weekend, following the Vine and Shine Trail we plot out three days of indulgence visiting vineyards and artisan food producers stretched across the region.
To those who think of Queensland as a tropical destination, the Granite Belt is a surprise package.
The largest of Queensland’s two recognised wine regions, its growing conditions are comparable to both the Clare Valley and northern Rhône.
Named after the boulder-strewn landscape and the elongated shape of the region, the Granite Belt is also one of Australia’s highest wine-producing regions, ranging from over 650 to 1000 metres, its high-altitude cool climate and well-drained decomposed granite soils conducive to the production of excellent wine.
The only area of the state to experience four true seasons, the region is a popular winter escape, a land where coastal dwellers can WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY MARG OSBORNE encounter frost and snow, curling up in front of a fire with a glass of red.
Grapes have a long history in the Granite Belt dating back a century to when Italian immigrants cleared the land with winches and dynamite, planting stone fruit, apples and berries on their farms, as well as the first grapevines.
“My grandfather made wine from table grapes in the 1930s, not only for the family’s consumption, but also to send by barrel to Innisfail where his friends were cutting cane,” says Angelo Puglisi, veteran winemaker and owner of Ballandean Estate, the oldest and one of the most established wineries that we visit.
Having read a lot and seen the German wine traditions in the Barossa, Puglisi planted his shiraz and cabernet vines in 1968 despite stiff criticism, these two varieties remaining staples of Ballandean Estate’s award-winning range.
Although mainstream varieties make up 60 per cent of the region’s wine production, more than 50 emerging varieties are grown here, the foresight of adventurous pioneers, such as Puglisi, who thought outside the square.
The famous Strangebird Alternative Wine Trail features Granite Belt wine made from lesser-known varietals; wines such as Verdelho, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, Barbera and Saperavi.
Travelling the length of the Granite Belt, it’s possible to see some variation in the microclimates.
It’s interesting, too, to note the difference in viticulture techniques and the variation in vintage times across the region.
Just three hours by car from Brisbane and the Gold Coast, the northern part of the region is well known for its apples and stone fruit.
It’s also home to great wineries, including 5-star Boireann Winery and Summit Estate and the Queensland College of Wine Tourism, which has its own vineyard and restaurant.
At an altitude of 930m, Heritage Estate, rated a 5-star winery by James Halliday for the past five years, has taken wine tasting to the next level with their Nips & Nosh food and wine pairing by presenting a luxe 5-course lunch degustation from Friday to Sunday in their classically themed restaurant.
Dining at Queensland’s original parliamentary table, your meal will be accompanied by five wines, one of them being Heritage’s Rabbit Fence Red which references the rabbit-proof fence adjoining the vineyard, part of the fence constructed in the 1890s along Queensland’s southern and western borders for a length of 2700 kilometres.
Situated in an apple orchard area, the multi award winning Robert Channon Wines holds the distinction of having their wine served to Queen Elizabeth II.
Planted in a frost-free area at 950m, the vines are under cover of permanent bird nets which not only protect them from hail but also slow the ripening of the grapes, leading to better flavour development.
High enough up on the western slopes to garnish winter mists, drizzle and snow, at the charming Ravens Croft cellar door you’ll be met by owner Mark Ravenscroft, whose hands have brought the wine from vine to glass.
Boutique, with just three acres under vine, the master winemaker uses minimal intervention techniques to make award-winning preservative-free and vegan-friendly wine.
Sit and relax on Mark’s shaded deck looking out across the vineyard and chat to him about wine and his fascinating winemaking journey.
Further south in Glen Aplin, Ridgemill Estate is drier, cooler, prone to late spring frosts, and with different soils to some other parts of the Granite Belt.
Their winemaker, Pete McGlashan, produces wine across a range of styles, from barrel-fermented Chardonnay to less common European ‘strangebird’ varietals such as Tempranillo.
Quirkily named after dogs and family members, many of Ridgemill’s wines are vegan friendly.
A number of studio cabins on the property makes this an excellent place to stay and enjoy time in the vineyards, with breakfast included.
Even further south, Ballandean could be divided into two areas differentiated by varying altitude.
The high-altitude wineries of Hidden Creek, Twisted Gum, Symphony Hill and Just Red along the Eukey Road ridge produce high quality cool climate wines.
The pristine Symphony Hill, at close to 1000m, is one of the highest vineyards in the region.
Their wines fly high as well, the 2016 Reserve Shiraz and 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon both gaining five stars from Halliday, the 2016 Shiraz served on Qantas International business class flights.
On the western side of the highway lie some of the Granite Belt’s oldest and most established wineries, including Golden Grove, Ballandean Estate and Tobin Wines.
In winter, the Ballandean Valley is prone to frost, sometimes around 50 per year.
It’s the home of many Italian varietals, planted by Italian pioneer families who settled the area up to a century ago, who have since branched out into many other varieties.
Whatever your tastes or your budget, a visit to the Granite Belt should be on your to-do list.
“Every bottle tells a story of people, place and passion,” Angelo Puglisi says.
These tales provide context for the wine discoveries you bring home from your trip to enjoy in the weeks ahead.
So, come join us on the road. vineandshinetrail.com.au
NOTE: It’s worth planning your Vine and Shine Trail journey, ringing ahead to make bookings for tastings.
This way you can plan to meet some of the winemakers, relaxing with a bite to eat along the way.
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