51 A Taste of Italy

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A TASTE OF ITALY

Discover the charm of Tuscany in Northern New South Wales.

THE GRAND TOUR is the name given to an old rite of passage through Europe for the upwardly mobile.

The tradition has influenced cuisine, culture and all things architectural in England, the Americas, Australia and New Zealand.

One of the tenements for this famous vestige was sperimenta e porta con te which loosely translates in Italian to ‘experience and take with you’.

The Tour, as it is now known, flourished from about 1660 until the advent of large-scale rail transport in Europe in the 1840s.

It was associated with a standing itinerary which included traveling to Dover in England, Paris to Marseilles in France, Genoa to Florence to Venice in Italy and Athens in Greece.

Prior to the COVID outbreak the tradition was being readily taken up once again particularly by upwardly mobile antipodeans. WORDS JASON MURAKAMI

I was recently pleasantly reminded of the Grand Tour mantra while sitting at The Italian Diner, a quaint eatery in the town of Bangalow in northern New South Wales.

Spirited with my memories of my own Grand Tour, I could not help but recall my Tuscan experience and the lovely Italian trattoria where I found myself seeking refreshments.

It was a pleasant surprise to me that my observations and comparisons to this lovely establishment to my experiences in Tuscany were not unfounded given that one of The Italian Diner’s owners once lived in Lucca, a beautiful city in Tuscany.

The influences from Lucca can be readily seen in the eatery’s decor and, of course, its menu.

Founded by the Etruscans in the 3rd century BC before becoming a Roman colony in 180 BC, Lucca is one of the oldest cities in Italy.

The rectangular grid of its historical centre preserves the Roman street plan, and the Piazza San Michele occupies the site of the ancient forum.

Traces of the amphitheatre may still be seen in the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro which is home to some of the city’s most celebrated trattorias.

In Italy, public eating houses follow a traditional classification system and fall into three main categories – a Ristorante, a Trattoria or an Osteria.

The distinction between the three types of venues holds a very distinct meaning in Italy in terms of culture, history, and economics.

Traditionally, a ristorante is more upmarket.

The term came into use to describe elegant and sophisticated dining establishments which featured well-dressed clientele and expensive foods that are not limited to season and locality and assert the most decorous service etiquette.

Less formal than a ristorante is the trattoria which is a more relaxed and unpretentious place to dine.

A trattoria makes the best of local produce as it is available.

Thus, has an ever-changing seasonal menu and wine list and more casual service.

The osteria is an even less formal place than a trattoria with limited food such as cheese and meat boards with a greater emphasis on the wine list and casual service.

Bangalow’s The Italian Diner is a perfect example of a classic trattoria.

Its menu makes the most of the fabulous northern New South Wales local produce and has an ever-changing impressive seasonal menu.

The wine list is more than competent, and while the service is casual it has a penchant for style.

For my evening at The Italian Diner I enjoyed Venice’s famous dish carpaccio with a Bangalow twist of using beetroot, pickled sardines with thyme crumb and slow roasted porchetta on Tuscan bean salad.

The last time I experienced pickled sardines I was sitting in Piazza dell'Anfiteatro.

I must say I think I prefer the delicious Bangalow version.

In these travel-challenged times overnight stays are a great way to enjoy a break and support intra or interstate town communities.

If you have not been to Bangalow in recent times you should make the effort as you will be very impressed with this rustic town which was first settled in 1881 and became the centre of the surrounding agricultural farmlands which now serve its surrounding eateries with fresh local produce.

The Bangalow Guesthouse is beautiful place for an overnight getaway.

The homestead has a fascinating and treasured past, combining the charm of a bygone era.

The 3-acre grounds are bordered by Byron Creek and high, deep green hedgerows.

The lush lawns and gardens surrounding the property ensure complete privacy for any stay.

Better still it is a 3-minute walk to The Italian Diner which are happy to pack a macadamia panna cotta with orange blossom syrup and a lovely bottle of Chianti to take back to the guesthouse to enjoy in front of the fireplace.