mise en place issue 51 CIA Connections

No. 51, February 2010

ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

CIA Connections

CIA Connections 6

6

CIA Connections The long reach of CIA connections

20 The Tea Sommelier

A world of flavor in a cup

24 The Ratings Game

All about those star and diamond ratings

24

18 14 Across the Plaza

Following the Presidential Trail | Gluten-Free Summit

22 28 Gifts at Work

Why Give? | Giving’s Impact | Menu for Healthy Kids

Women Share Their Success | Alumni Hobbies | Book Shelf Reunion 2009 | Halloween Dance

22 Education for Life

A Toast to Our New Beverage Program | Manager Training Program for Alums | The Ratings Game | Kudos

32 Class Notes

Alumni Council Corner | Class Notes | In Memoriam

When you were a student at the CIA, you defined the place by its gorgeous campuses, rigorous classes, bustling kitchens, esteemed faculty, and time with good friends. Upon graduation, the CIA became less of a place and more a state of mind that you carried with you. No matter where you go, the CIA is there in the whisper of a knife cut, a beautiful plating of vegetables, the gracious greeting of customers, the careful selection of a wine, a perfectly executed pastry, and the quiet order in your kitchen. It’s in the profit and loss statement you pore over at night, the phone call to a vendor demanding the best product, and the weekly checks you hand out to your staff.

mise en place® No. 51, February 2010 Nancy W. Cocola, Editor Leslie Jennings, Designer

Contributing Writers Dr. Chris Loss ’93 Shelly Loveland Jenifer McEnery Andrea Morris Jennifer O’Neill Darin Schulz ’83

Your connection to other CIA alums is forever. It’s there when a fellow graduate recommends someone who turns out to be the perfect sous chef. It’s there when your purveyor, another CIA grad,

Editorial Board Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 President

Chet Koulik Francisco Migoya

This edition of mise en place is all about CIA Connections. We’ll

Nancy Harvin Vice President for Advancement

look at the CIA’s community, corporate, academic, and earth-

Mark Ainsworth ’86

Tama Murphy

ly connections. We’ll also get a glimpse into the networking and

Brad Barnes ’87

romantic connections so often experienced by our alumni. After

Sue Cussen

Anthony Nogales ’88

makes sure you get the freshest produce. It’s there when you feel the camaraderie in a kitchen populated mostly by CIA alumni who share the same culinary DNA with you.

you’ve finished reading, you just might want to e-mail or phone an old friend from the CIA—and make a connection.

Nancy Cocola

Ron DeSantis ’81

Chris Loss ’93 Douglass Miller ’89

Jen Stack ’03

Heather Kolakowski ’02

Editor

Mission

Mise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by: Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students.

Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concerning the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodservice industry. Creating a forum to help alumni network and build community. ©2010 The Culinary Institute of America All rights reserved.

Photography: Stephanie Berry, Keith Ferris, Andrea Morris, and K. Elaine Read Original Art: Julian Landa

4

School of Distinction

Ranchers Club. The show emphasizes that

The CIA has been named a “School

You’re Cooking is hosted by Adam Parker

cooking should be simple and fun. Now

of Distinction” for 2008–2009 by the

’01, executive chef at Indian Head Resort

Accrediting Commission of Career

in Lincoln, NH. Adam’s show highlights

Schools and Colleges (ACCSC). The award

some of the fun and delicious recipes

recognizes ACCSC-accredited institutions

found at the resort that translate easily to

that have demonstrated a commitment to the expectations and rigors of accreditation as well as to delivering quality educational programs. The CIA was honored at ACCSC’s Professional Development Conference Awards Ceremony on September 15, 2009 in San Diego, CA. Requiring renewal of accreditation every five years, this is the second consecutive accrediting process for which the CIA earned a “School of Distinction” honor.

Two New Trustees At the October 2009 Annual Meeting at the Hyde Park campus, Carla Cooper, retired senior vice president for Quaker, Tropicana, and Gatorade sales, Pepsico; and Arthur Maxwell, chairman of Pearl Street Group, WhiteFence, and AIS, Inc., both took the Oath of Trusteeship. They were formally welcomed as the newest members of the Board of Trustees.

new residence hall

News from Greystone

the home kitchen. What’s most obvious when you watch these two shows is how passionate both chefs are about sharing their knowledge with people so they

The scoop from our Greystone campus is

too can enjoy the pleasure of preparing

the addition of the A.O.S. in baking and

delicious food.

pastry arts, joining the A.O.S. in culinary arts degree program already offered there.

Demand in the industry for increasingly skilled and experienced baking and pastry chefs was part of the motivation to launch the degree program at the California campus.

They’ll Appreciate You More, for Less!

Friends and family have never really understood the rigors and challenges of your CIA education. Now it’s possible for them to get a glimpse into your world

In other news, the construction of the new

through one of our Boot Camp programs.

residence hall at Greystone is finished!

They’re available at all three of our

And while the landscaping is not yet in,

campuses—Hyde Park, Greystone, and

the rooms are now ready for their first

San Antonio—and we’ve arranged for

occupants. You’ll remember that the

your favorite food enthusiast to receive

construction plans won a Leadership in

a preferred price of 15% off any Boot

Energy Efficiency in Design (LEED) gold

Camp. Just call 1-800-888-7850 for more

certification. To learn more about how the

information.

CIA is thinking green, go to page 12.

Making Food Easy on YouTube What do Play With Your Food and Now You’re Cooking have in common? They are both cooking shows hosted by CIA alumni on YouTube. Play With Your Food is produced by Oklahoma State University’s School of Hotel and (left to right) Carla cooper, arthur maxwell, and cameron mitchell

mise en place no.51, February 2010

Restaurant Administration and hosted

by Marc Dunham ’99, chef de cuisine at OSU’s Atherton Hotel and the fine-dining trussing a chicken in boot camp

5

Community}Connections Making Dreams Come True

bacon, mushrooms, onion rings, American and Swiss cheese, lettuce,

Most chefs will tell you that they knew from a very young age that

with a side of fries! Proceeds of the sale benefited the Make-A-Wish

they wanted to be chefs. Fourteen-year-old Alex Overbey is no

Foundation. With his creation on the menu, Alex had one more thrill

exception. He hopes to become a chef someday. As certified ProChefs,

to top off his day. He was granted the honorary title of Chef from The

Rik Kiessling P.C. III/C.E.C. and Craig Luckman, P.C. II/C.C.C. of

Culinary Institute of America, and was presented with a certificate,

Aramark Sports & Entertainment know just how special it is to earn a

CIA books and knife kit, and a card of congratulations from both

credential from the CIA. They each have been through the rigorous

faculty and staff.

courses and exams associated with ProChef® certification. So they were more than happy to help aspiring chef and Colorado Rockies fan Alex Overbey, who has been battling cancer, make his dream come true.

Working with the Make-A-Wish Foundation, Regional Executive

pickles, and Chef Alex’s special sauce. Oh, and all of that was served

“Alex was thrilled to receive the cookbooks and knives from the CIA,” said Rik. “He was honored that so many great chefs and others took the time to write him notes, and hopes that someday he can become a full-time student at the CIA.” Thank you, CIA ProChefs Rik and Craig! You make the CIA proud.

Chef Kiessling and Executive Chef Luckman reached out to CIA Director of Training and Certification Tama Murphy for assistance in making Alex’s dream a reality. On August 22, 2009, Rik, Craig, and Alex worked side-by-side to develop a menu item to be sold at Coors Field—the home of Alex’s beloved Rockies. What emerged from that creative conclave was Alex’s Burger, made of two Angus beef patties,

Chefs in Community Service On Saturdays you’ll find a group of dedicated CIA students cooking and serving food at either Queen’s Galley in Kingston, NY or the Bowery Mission in New York City. For these committed students, giving back to those less fortunate is not just something they talk

(left to right) craig, alex, and rik at coors field

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www.ciaalumninetwork.com

about, but rather something they do without fanfare or accolades. Queens Galley is a soup kitchen that provides those who go there the dignity of a served, sit-down meal.

“The best part is seeing how grateful people (left to right) danielle stevens, nathan ordway, and jill wasilewski

are when you hand them food. They ask us questions when they see

us in our chef’s whites,” explains Jill Wasilewski, president of Chefs in Community Service (CCS).

Creating from the Soup Kitchen Pantry Dr. Lois Altman ’81, professor and director of Ball State University’s Hospitality Food Management Program, heads a cooking crew at Harvest Soup Kitchen every Friday. That crew can include a retired engineer, a retired automaker, and Ball State students. Her dedication to the project has resulted in a book called Harvest Handbook, which Altman describes as “a book for folks who cook in soup kitchens. It offers ideas about how to maximize and be creative with the resources found in a soup kitchen.” This book is available online at www.harvest. iweb.bsu.edu for all to use. In addition to cooking, Lois scrounges for homegrown produce to round out the soup kitchen’s larder. “I’m

The much larger Bowery Mission provided homeless men and

always out there in the community, grubbing for stuff,” she happily

women with more than 362,500 meals, 78,500 nights of shelter,

explains.

50,000 articles of clothing, 550 doctor’s appointments, and 69 eye exams in 2008 alone. Prepping for the cafeteria-style dinner service, CCS students feel like they are in an episode of the Food Network’s Chopped. They never know what ingredients will be available to them from the donated pantry. The challenge is creating healthy comfort food that limits salt, sugar, and fat. In fact, they produce two sets of desserts—one of which is sugar-free for diners who suffer from diabetes. One of the biggest surprises for Jill was her perception of the people she was serving. “Most of the people you meet are very down on their luck and look much like you would expect a homeless person to look,” she says. “But every now and again, someone will arrive for dinner carrying a briefcase. The only giveaway to their desperate situation is the frayed cuffs and ill-fitting suit jacket that reveal their shaky hold on recovery.” The soup kitchens are not the only project for CCS. They help to stock food pantries by promoting canned food drives as well. Despite all the other demands placed on CIA students, it’s wonderful to see some of them reaching out and making a difference in the larger community.

mise en place no.51, February 2010

lois altman working with volunteers at harvest soup kitchen

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Network}Connections What began as job exploration quickly turned into an idea for a pilot career exploration program.

“The pilot had a profound impact on Samantha and me. It helped us network with prominent executives,” Robbie said. “We are now both pursuing the retail sector of the food industry—something we never would have thought to do. Samantha was almost positive she wanted to go into hotels, but found that they were not the place for her.”

From Lee Ellen’s perspective, the pilot was a success. “Samantha received a job offer from Central Market, and, following her graduation, accepted a front-of-the-house position in Houston. Robbie developed a proposal as part of his senior thesis to turn the pilot project into a permanent program available to all students.”

At least half of the 2,700 students enrolled at the CIA are recent high school graduates. They arrive on campus with a strong sense of who they want to become when they graduate. Often they envision themselves opening the next French Laundry or Le Bernardin. Some aspire to become the next great hotelier. The career possibilities available in the foodservice and hospitality industry are endless and this program is an opportunity for students to get exposure in a reallife way.

Alums Pilot Young Chefs to Careers Newly engaged and planning their future together, Robbie Rensel ’10 and Samantha Bussman ’09 discovered new career and personal goals during their July 2009 summer break while connecting with industry leaders and CIA alumni in Dallas, TX. Prior to their trip,

exploration program can contact the corporate relations team in the Office of Advancement by e-mailing Felicia Zammit at f_zammit@ culinary.edu.

both students contacted Lee Ellen Hayes, senior advancement

Feeding the Culinary Pipeline

officer for corporate relations in the CIA Office of Advancement, to

Lon Symensma ’99, executive chef at New York City’s Buddakan,

identify potential employers willing to meet with them. “We wanted

says, “At the CIA I established relationships that have lasted me

to gain a thorough understanding of different companies’ cultures

throughout my career.” In fact, it is through his longstanding

and philosophies so we could make sure we ended up working for a

relationship with Associate Professor in Culinary Arts Xavier Le Roux

company we melded with,” explained Robbie.

that he continues to staff his restaurant. High-quality students who

Lee Ellen reached out to her CIA network of industry leaders. She scheduled interviews and facility tours with Mary Ane Piazza ’96 at The Coca-Cola Company, Michael Gluckman ’99 at Fearing’s Restaurant, David Sonzogni ’80 at Central Market, and many others.

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Employers that want to learn more about how to participate in a career

come to the attention of Chef Le Roux through both word and deed are often nudged in Lon’s direction, and if the fit is right, he takes them on.

Meeting with CIA students is something Chris Muller ’88, chef

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

the map and has created Pampered Cow, an aggregating center for Hudson Valley cheeses and products like Liz’s. Of course, one of the companies he uses to “move the cheese” is Baldor Specialty Foods, whose president is Michael Muzyk ’80. Also working at Baldor is Jared Walton ’06, who says “so many of my customers have CIA degrees or have been to CIA Boot Camps. The common experience gives us instant credibility, is a great talking point, and is a definite business advantage.”

But it is through serendipity and chance meetings that Liz sees the real power of her CIA network. After meeting Matthew Ifkovits ’02 at a farmer’s market, they struck a deal and she is now making jam for his restaurant in Athens, NY. At a speed-networking event, she met Sara Lukasiewski ’09, executive chef at Red Devon Restaurant in Bangall, NY. The restaurant now uses her jam. And, at a Rensselaer County meeting she found Noah Sheetz ’00, executive chef at the Executive Mansion in Albany, NY and she now supplies his kitchen with her products! Liz believes that each of these mutually beneficial business “deals” were struck more easily because CIA grads immediately recognize and trust the quality of the work, products, and integrity of lon doing a demo for cia students

fellow alums.

de cuisine at Le Bernardin in New York City, does every day. He’s actually hired more than 200 CIA graduates over the last 15 years.

But he doesn’t just hire graduates or take on three or four externs a year; Chris opens the doors to one of the world’s best kitchens to a few students every Saturday afternoon to stage. These students get to see and experience a pressured yet disciplined setting. At 5 p.m. they join the Le Bernardin staff for the evening’s menu review done with detail and precision—the Michelin 3-star way.

A Business Advantage The CIA network of graduates of which “head jammer” Liz Beals ’02 is a part consists of a group of alums whose shared standard of excellence helps to open doors. Her job is at Beth’s Farm Kitchen in Stuyvesant Falls, NY, and her CIA network looks a little like this. Down the road from Beth’s Farm Kitchen is Matt Scott’s farm in Ghent, NY. He is determined to put Hudson Valley cheeses on

mise en place no.51, February 2010

“head jammer” liz beals

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Corporate}Connections Got Milk?

The G-I-K program is successful because we don’t compromise our

By Jenifer McEnery

our faculty, for determining which products and equipment will be

All smart business owners know that effective marketing translates into profits. When the catchy “Got Milk?” campaign began in 1993,

accepted. If they don’t meet the chefs’ specifications for quality and curriculum, we don’t accept them.

the California Milk Processor Board’s goal was to increase sales by

Participating in the CIA’s G-I-K program is a win-win for companies

building consumer awareness about milk’s health and thirst-quenching

and the college. Companies gain brand exposure early on in a young

benefits. It is credited with turning around national milk sales.

chef’s career and the CIA improves student access to education. So, if

In some cases, marketing can promote brand awareness while also

you’ve “got milk,” and it’s good, we’ll take it!

benefiting a greater cause. At the CIA, the corporate relations team

Over 100 companies currently participate in the CIA’s G-I-K program.

in the Office of Advancement works to help companies gain brand

A select number of these have participated for more than five years:

exposure for their products through the Gifts-In-Kind (G-I-K) program

All-Clad Metalcrafters, Inc.

InterMetro Industries Corporation

Baldor Specialty Foods, Inc.

Jurgielewicz Duck Farm

Barnes & Noble Bookstores, Inc.

Keating of Chicago, Inc.

Barnes & Watson Fine Teas

Manitowoc Foodservice

Bunn-O-Matic Corporation

McCormick & Company, Inc.

Jim DeJoy, advancement officer for corporate relations, explains, “We

Catelli Brothers

Nation’s Restaurant News

have already trained more than 39,000 foodservice industry decision-

Colavita USA, Inc.

Panasonic Company

Colgate-Palmolive Company

Par-Way Tryson Company

Cres Cor

The Procter & Gamble Company

It also makes sense for the CIA. Approximately $9 million is spent

DeBragga & Spitler, Inc.

San Pellegrino USA, Inc.

annually on food products alone with another $1 million spent on

Diamond Crystal Specialty Foods

Sunkist Growers, Inc.

new equipment. Gifted product or equipment allows a portion of

Ginsberg’s Institutional Foods, Inc.

T & S Brass and Bronze Works, Inc.

these funds to be redirected toward other areas of need, including

Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, Inc.

Tone Brothers, Inc.

Harry Wils & Company, Inc.

Viking Range Corporation

Hobart Corporation

Wood Stone Corporation

Illycaffè-New York, Inc.

World Tableware Inc.

while they simultaneously support culinary education. The G-I-K program enables companies to make a gift of product or equipment to the college that will be used by students and professionals enrolled in our degree or continuing education programs.

makers. For food and hospitality companies, this amount of exposure of their quality products makes good business sense.”

institutional aid for student scholarships. Over the years, the G-I-K program has freed up several million dollars to do just that.

There are a number of participating companies that are either alumniowned or employers of alumni—a testament to the value of being a part of the G-I-K program.

According to Jim, “It is pretty typical to get a call from alumni wanting to bring their company’s product to campus. The brands they used repeatedly during their time at the CIA are ones they continue to associate with quality. They want to achieve the same awareness for the brand they represent.”

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mission of excellence. The college has a rigorous process, led by

To learn more about the G-I-K program, contact Jim DeJoy, at j_dejoy@culinary.edu or 845-451-1453.

Jenifer McEnery is a CIA advancement officer.

Romantic}Connections Dutch Treat

Stephan, whose father is Dutch and mother is

They often say, “The way to a man’s heart is through

citizenship. Patrick is an American citizen. They

his stomach.” And when two men are involved who

seemed the perfect contestants. They had to submit

are both CIA grads, that old adage translates into

all sorts of citizenship papers and verifications, and

lots of food and lots of love. Stephan Hengst ’00,

fill out mountains of forms before they were selected

the CIA’s director of communications, and Patrick

as one of the five couples to be married on a barge

Decker ’05, food stylist for the Rachael Ray Show,

floating down the main canal in Amsterdam on

met on the Hyde Park campus. Stephan was already

August 1, 2009. Stephan reports, “We got caught

working in the college’s Media Relations Department

in the race to get everything sent in and it was only

and Patrick was a 7th term student. Everyone said

after we were selected by the contest committee that I

they had so much in common and must meet. As it

actually turned to Patrick, in the kitchen of all places,

turned out, they shared the kind of connection that

to ask him to marry me!”

translated into a serious, committed relationship.

Swiss, was born in Holland, where he still retains

Arriving in Amsterdam, with family in tow, was an

While the CIA acknowledged them as domestic

amazing experience for the couple. People stopped

partners for the purposes of health insurance, living

them in the streets to congratulate them. Everyone

in New York State meant marriage was a distant

seemed to know who they were and stood ready to

dream—at least until they learned about an interesting

help Stephan and Patrick celebrate. And while having

contest.

one million people lined up along the canal to watch

The Netherlands is home to the Van Gogh Museum,

you get married may have felt a little unreal, it didn’t

tulips, windmills, canals, The Hague…and marriage

take away from the personal and private reality of the

equality. In fact, Holland was the first country to

event for them.

legalize gay marriage as far back as April 2001.

As thrilling as it was to get married in Holland, the

The mayor of Amsterdam, Job Cohen, thought New

return home left them, once again, in a gray area.

York’s quadricentennial celebration of Dutchman

The New York State Senate recently voted not to

Henry Hudson’s sail up the Hudson River was

legalize same-sex marriage. Until it does, Patrick

the perfect time to highlight the issue of marriage

and Stephan will continue to raise awareness by

equality in the U.S. He

lobbying their senators

wanted to send a message

and legislators to make

to New York State and

marriage equality the

hopefully spur political

law. In the meantime,

movement on the

they can be found out

marriage front. So, the

and about or at home,

city of Amsterdam staged

enjoying life with lots of

a contest for couples in

food and lots of love.

which one member was a Dutch citizen, one was an American citizen, and both lived in New York State. The prize? A fully legal marriage during Amsterdam’s annual Gay Pride celebration.

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Earth-ly}Connections Whether we’re pouring water at the table for our restaurant patrons, washing the floors in the hallways, lighting the lobby of Roth Hall, providing to-go trays and cups for students, or re-outfitting one of our restaurants, the CIA is paying close attention to our connection to and impact on the earth.

Green Restaurant Certification for St. Andrew’s Café St. Andrew’s Café at the Hyde Park campus has the distinction of

that is safe enough to ingest despite its mild Clorox-like aroma. The second resulting fluid is used as a de-greaser and general cleaning liquid. Our goal is to clean the CIA while being 90% chemical-free.

being the first of our restaurants to work closely with the Green

“To Go” As We Knew It… Is Gone

Restaurant Association (GRA) to obtain certification. The GRA—a

They look just like regular “to go” cups and containers—but they’re

national nonprofit consultancy—has broken down environmentally friendly practices into small bites that restaurateurs can easily digest. Their main goal is to guide restaurants so the change to green is simple, affordable, and rewarding. We worked with them on everything from water and energy efficiency and conservation to recycling and composting. On December 22, 2009, St. Andrew’s

not. Made of corn-based products, these items are meant to find their way into the compost heap, not the landfill. They take between 40–60 days to decompose using the heat of the composting pile. Going forward, we are looking into bamboo and other sustainable materials to replace plastic use throughout the college.

Café received a two-star certified restaurant designation from the Green Restaurant Association.

Quenching Thirst, Naturally The Natura® Water System creates a crystal clear and delicious beverage using the CIA’s normal tap water routed through two carbon filters. From there the water passes through a UV chamber that destroys 99.99% of any microorganisms. Available in both still and sparkling versions, the water is presented in the restaurants in attractive, reusable glass bottles. This technology eliminates the need to transport, store, and dispose of single-use bottles, thus reducing our carbon footprint. Patrons in our restaurants are still able to purchase Acqua Panna® and San Pellegrino® bottled water, but the equally good Natura costs less.

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Keeping it Clean

When Assistant Store Room Manager and Buyer Chance Coluccio

As you might imagine, keeping floors, kitchens, workspaces,

find ways for the college to steward the earth better than it did the

residence halls, bathrooms, and public spaces clean at the CIA is one

day before. He is always looking for new initiatives that will have a

huge job. We’ve invested in three new electrolyzing machines that

positive impact on the environment. Some projects that are in the very

turn regular salted tap water into chemical-free cleaning solutions.

preliminary stages of investigation are: working gardens to support

The process breaks the water down in two ways. First, it creates a

the restaurants, greenhouses to grow vegetables year round, and green

mild disinfectant for things like cutting boards and work surfaces

“living” roofs to reduce heating and cooling loading.

comes to work at the CIA every day, one of his principal goals is to

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Academic}Connections

By Dr. Chris Loss ’93

Food Safety Research

Over the next four years the NIFSI research team will work together on the following goals:

The CIA’s Department of Menu Research &

• Use scientific data to redefine good agricultural

Development is part of an interdisciplinary team that

practices to minimize the microbial risks associated

received a $1.6 million USDA National Integrated

with fruits and vegetables.

Food Safety Initiative (NIFSI) grant for research to help

• Define and communicate the microbial hazards

improve the safety of fresh fruits and vegetables. The

that can result in the contamination of fresh and

research team of academics and industry leaders, led

minimally processed produce in home kitchens,

by Dr. Randy Worobo of Cornell University, includes

foodservice operations, and retail facilities.

members from the University of California, Davis;

• Model microbial transfer during fruit and

the CIA; the University of Florida; Michigan State

vegetable cultivation, processing, distribution, and

University; Texas A&M; and representatives from

handling in retail and foodservice environments.

Duda Farm Fresh foods, the North Carolina Strawberry Association, The American Raspberry and Blackberry Association, and the National Good Agricultural Practices Program. We will focus our expertise on identifying the microbial hazards associated with bringing fresh and minimally processed produce from the farm to the consumer’s table. We will develop strategies for best practices, and educational interventions for industry professionals and home cooks that minimize risks. This research will help develop new knowledge and advance our understanding of the challenges and opportunities that our vast and vital food systems present.

• Analyze the economics of controlling microbial food safety hazards for fresh and fresh-cut fruits and vegetables.

• Educate consumers, retail workers, and foodservice professionals about best-handling practices for minimizing risks of microbial contamination of fresh produce.

The Department of Menu R&D will help design online surveys to conduct a needs assessment of foodservice and retail personnel, and help develop and evaluate educational materials on safe handling of fresh produce.

In addition, a combination of classical microbiological cultivation and molecular testing methods will be used to “map out” the microbial ecology of the kitchen, and determine

Our Dynamic Food System

where the foodborne pathogens associated with fresh outbreaks

On average, consumers split approximately half of their food

work will be used to develop improved cleaning and sanitation

dollars between restaurants and retail outlets, creating a variety of distances and distribution chains for our produce to travel.

And with the demand for convenience foods with global flavor profiles, our food systems become increasingly far-flung and complex. Thus, it is essential for an interdisciplinary group like the NIFSI grant research team to critically evaluate the potential microbial hazards present in our food system, and develop strategies to minimize risks associated with these hazards.

The CIA’s Role The CIA’s Department of Menu R&D represents the field of culinary education and acts as a liaison to the foodservice industry. Food industry stakeholders who bring ingredients from farm to fork will serve as models to better understand the microbial hazards associated with fruit and vegetable production and develop strategies for reducing risks

are and where in the food chain they enter. The results from this guidelines in the kitchen. Training materials developed will be evaluated at the CIA as part of the regular food safety classes and in special seminars, with the ultimate goal of incorporating them into the National Restaurant Association’s ServSafe® educational materials. By taking an interdisciplinary, sciencebased approach to understanding the mechanisms of microbial risk reduction, we will more effectively adapt to our dynamic food systems. Academic research collaborations such as this will help our industry provide its customers with safe, healthy, and flavorful meals.

Interested in getting involved with research? If you are interested in being involved in this study and learn more about “mapping out” the microbial ecology of your restaurant kitchen, please contact me, Dr. Chris Loss, chair, Department of Menu R&D, at c_loss@culinary.edu.

associated with those hazards.

mise en place no.51, February 2010

13

Following the Presidential Trail

Park campus for a lecture series with themes of traditional and

President Tim Ryan meets with countless groups and individuals to

Mediterranean diet. Our chefs are looking forward to their trip to

ensure that the partnerships, collaborations, and alliances the CIA

Spain and the exchange of ideas that will ensue.

forges help enhance the quality of education we offer students and

modern Catalan gastronomy as well as the health benefits of the

advance the industry as a whole. Here is a glimpse of some of the

Harvard and the CIA

new and ongoing relationships Tim cultivates for the CIA.

On a recent trip to Harvard University, Mark Erickson, Greg Drescher, and President Ryan met with Dr. David Eisenberg of the Harvard Medical School and Dr. Walter Willet of the School of Public Health to discuss the expansion and strengthening of our current partnership. They also had meetings with Dr. Jeff Flier, the dean of the medical school, and Dr. Julio Frenck, the dean of the school of public health. Dean Frenck, who was Mexico’s former minister of health, was especially enthusiastic—explaining that his son wants to attend the CIA. Our relationship with the Harvard University Medical School and School of Public Health is longstanding and strong. The two major conferences co-hosted by

peru meets cia

Peruvian Culinary Educators Confer with CIA The president of the Peruvian American National Council (PANC) and two representatives from San Martín de Porres University (USMP) visited our campus to discuss their interest in developing a working relationship with us for scientific research, conferences, and faculty/student exchanges. PANC supports progress in the areas of economic development, education, and commerce between Peru and the United States. USMP promotes itself as the largest private university and leading culinary college in Peru. They have 3,500 students and are proudly patterning what they do after the CIA. Victor Gielisse joined Mark Erickson ’77 and Tim

the CIA and Harvard—Healthy Kitchens, Healthy Lives and the Worlds of Healthy Flavors Leadership Retreat—have set the gold standard for culinary/collegiate partnerships.

Just Like Rock Stars Anthony Bourdain ’78 visited campus to film an episode of his Travel Channel show, No Reservations. The episode will highlight New York’s Hudson Valley and focus on Chef Bourdain’s time here as a CIA student. Honorary alumnus Michael Ruhlman, who is author of The Making of a Chef and Soul of a Chef, accompanied Anthony and participated in the taping. While here, Anthony also conducted a standing-room-only Q&A session for students. They were very excited about Tony and Michael being on campus and, as if they were rock stars, swarmed them everywhere they went!

in the discussions and they will investigate the merits of further collaboration.

Visitors from Catalan In this column a few months ago, we reported on the formation of a partnership between the Alicia Foundation, chaired by Ferran Adrià, and the CIA. This accord is designed to provide CIA faculty and students with the opportunity to study and experience the breadth of Catalan food and wine through visits to leading kitchens and markets and Chef Adrià’s kitchen. Recently, a delegation of guests from Barcelona, Spain arrived at the Hyde

14

(left to right) michael ruhlman, anthony bourdain, and president ryan

Meeting of the Minds Gluten-Free Summit

gluten-free market is complex and growing. The opportunities for

In a culinary world where food allergies are dominating the

the discussion next year at the Fifth Annual Summit.

discussion and consumers are in search of answers and lifestyle solutions, the Fourth Annual Gluten-Free Culinary Summit (East) was held at the CIA on September 12–13, 2009. Award-winning restaurant chefs, industry experts, and CIA faculty presented glutenfree culinary and baking demonstrations, panel discussions, and recipe tastings. CIA Chef Richard Coppedge shared the best-kept secrets and strategies of gluten-free baking. David Kamen ’88 focused his presentation on alternate grains. David Barry ’95 used gluten-free batter to create fried delights (something usually offlimits to the celiac sufferer). Scott Uehlein ’85 of Canyon Ranch, an award-winning resort with an innovative approach to health and wellness, encouraged everyone to make their diets sustainable and non-depriving. He created richly flavored snacks that were glutenfree. George Chookazian ’93 of Foods by George demonstrated how easy it is to create ladyfingers and “yodels” using only a few ingredients and one of Chef Coppedge’s four gluten-free flour mixes.

Attendee Christine Hellman, Wegmans product developer, has special challenges at her job. “The government has not yet

culinary creativity are enormous. We look forward to broadening

Women Share Their Success Put six accomplished female chefs/entrepreneurs in a room and you get very strong and different opinions about what it takes to start, grow, and maintain a successful business. Hosted by Eve Felder ’88, associate dean for faculty development and special projects, the event was sponsored by the CIA’s Women Chefs and Restaurateurs (WCR) chapter. Attending were 125 students eager to hear words of wisdom. Lori Daniel ’79, CIA trustee and founder of Two Chefs on a Roll, explained that while you must dream, you must also learn what it takes to manage people and set boundaries. Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy, co-owners/chefs of La Palapa restaurants, both agreed that you have to have a strong trouble-shooting gene and you have to look at something and want to make it better each and every day. Laurey Masterton, owner of Laurey’s Catering, believes that if you provide great food, take care of your staff like they are family, look after your customers, and steward the earth, you are bound for success.

delineated the parts-per-million

Rohini Dey, owner and CEO of

of gluten that will earmark an

Vermillion Restaurants in Chicago

item as gluten-free,” according

and New York City and Maneet

to Hellman. “At Wegmans we will only put our glutenfree label on something if

Chuahan ’00, executive chef for Vermillion Restaurants, shared their goal of elevating Indian cuisine in the

a manufacturer will stand

U.S. as well as the need for high-level

behind the claim.” Clearly

women in the workplace. Students left

the scope and potential of the

with their heads filled with advice and lots of inspiration.

cia students present an array of gluten-free goodies

15

Alums

and their hobbies

By Jennifer O’Neill Though working in the foodservice industry can be all-consuming, many of our CIA alumni manage to carve out time for unusual hobbies outside of the kitchen.

Student Success Manager, The Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago

Richard Hoelzel ’85, Animal Rescuer

Chicago, the windy city, is the perfect place for Meg Rickman to

Corporate Chef for Compass Group North America

live and pursue her no-hassle hobby—kite flying. Meg appreciates

Richard, along with his partner, Gregg, have rescued countless

essence. When Meg flies her kite in open space she can think

animals but only live with 32 of their “babies”—10 dogs, 5 cats, and 17 birds! “With the economy the way it is, many people open the door and let their pets go or drop them off at a shelter,” Richard explained. The plight of these animals, some from puppy mills and animal hoarders, really pulls at his heartstrings. Recently, Richard and Gregg accompanied the ASPCA on a raid that rescued 95 dogs from animal hoarders. Clearly their hobby has evolved into a kind of activism and they struggle to resist the urge to take more animals into their home.

Community members rely on Richard and Gregg to care for strays, and it is not unusual for them to open their door to find a pair of big, sad eyes looking up at them. One of most wrenching moments was when Maggie, a Chihuahua, showed up on their doorstop with hardened cement all over her body. Naturally, she got taken in and is now an active and healthy member of the family!

16

Meg Rickman ’03, Kite Flyer

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

the solitary nature of kite flying as well as its peaceful, relaxing more clearly and approach challenges from a different perspective.

The proud owner of seven kites of all different shapes and sizes, Meg enjoys kite flying as a way to explore different areas of the “Windy City.” “It’s easy to pack a kite and go—anyone can do it,” says Meg. She recounts a day when she escaped her busy kitchen for a break on a nearby college campus. As the kite gained altitude, Meg heard a chorus of “oohs” and “aahs” from a crowd of student onlookers. And when, sadly, the kite crashed into a tree, Meg heard a loud, sympathetic “oooh.” Everyone, even perfect strangers, enjoyed the magic of the kite. Now, 10 years later, Meg smiles when she returns to the campus and sees the ill-fated kite, still nestled in the top of the tree.

Steve Preston ’78, Storm Chaser

risk. Three years ago, Joseph’s dragster went into “tire shake” and

Part-Time Caterer and Firefighter

Thankfully, Joseph escaped the accident relatively unharmed. Why

the tires could not grip the race surface. He “dropped a cylinder,” lost horsepower, and slammed into a concrete wall at 200 mph.

When the storm of 1966 brought life to a standstill in the small town of Penfield in upstate New York, Steve Preston turned into an inveterate “weather junkie.” These days, he is never far from the Weather Channel and the Doppler

continue to take the risk? “There’s nothing faster on the ground than an 8,000 horsepower Top Fuel dragster—nothing even comes close,” Joseph explains.

radar. Compelled to chase storms, he has a scanner in his

Lyde Buchtenkirch-Biscardi ’72, Bagpiper

car that is hooked up to the National Weather Service. He

C.M.C., Retired Senior

believes that weather is becoming more dramatic. Where he

Instructor, CIA

lives, the lake effect can mean yearly snowfalls of 200–300

As a child, Lyde was intrigued by

inches. He loves the thrill of the chase, but he must always balance that with his job as a fireman who has to be nearby to work rescue during a storm. One memorable moment came during a blizzard when Steve had to deliver a baby in the front seat of a pickup truck because the parents got stuck en route to the hospital. What keeps Steve chasing down the “Big One?” “Weather is the one thing in life that money can’t control. It’s Mother Nature kicking butt!”

bagpiping. But, according to her, “there were no female bagpipers back then. I aspired to be the first female bagpiper.” So, it was a stroke of luck when she noticed a local woman offering an adult education bagpiping class. Some lessons later, Lyde became one of 50 bagpipers in the Amerscot

Joseph Lucci ’07, Drag Racer

Highland Pipe Band. She and her band mates march in over

Lead Line Cook, Union League Café

20 parades a year. They also

It’s all about the adrenaline rush for Joseph Lucci.

the Scottish Highland Games.

He became fascinated by drag racing at the age of 15 when his father took him to a racetrack near his home. Joseph was inspired to attend a special school in Florida to earn his Top Fuel dragster license. Speeding

perform at weddings, fairs, and During one parade it began pouring just as the band “stepped off” to play. Though the pipers were soaking wet and the roads started to flood, the band played on. Eventually, all they could do was laugh hysterically at the sight they made.

Jennifer O’Neill is a CIA alumni relations officer.

down a racetrack at 300 miles per hour has not been without

mise en place no.51, February 2010

17

Book Shelf My New Orleans: The Cookbook

Chocolate and Confections at Home

By John Besh ’92 This book is John Besh’s celebration of the food

By Peter Greweling

he loved as a boy growing up just outside

As a home candy

of New Orleans on

maker’s guide to

Lake Pontchartrain.

creating stunning

It grew out of John’s

chocolates and confections,

determination to capture for all time the seasonal wonder that is New Orleans cuisine. Each chapter opens with one of John’s vivid

this book offers detailed knowledge for anyone who wants to make truly amazing confections and candies. CIA Chef-Instructor and Certified Master Baker Peter Greweling provides recipes and techniques for making even the

memories that bring us into his world of fresh, local ingredients

most ambitious treats. Richly illustrated with more than 150

seasoned by gatherings with family and friends. Chapters with

full-color photos, this inspiring book offers details on chocolates,

names like Crawfish and Rice, Feast Days, Shrimp Season, Creole

truffles, toffees and taffies, fudge and pralines, marshmallows,

Tomatoes, Gumbo Weather, and Preserving Summer ensure that

jellies, nuts, and much more. It’s the ideal resource for anyone

the reader will find something to suit their tastes from every season

who wants to graduate from chocolate chip cookies to more

of the year.

decadent delights.

Gingerbread Easy Gluten-Free Baking

By Jennifer Lindner McGlinn ’93 Enjoy the

By Elizabeth Barbone ’99

wonderful flavor

This totally accessible

of gingerbread

book offers easy-to-

anytime.

follow instructions and

Gingerbread

techniques for creating gluten-free bakery delights.

Anyone who copes with the challenge of preparing gluten-free desserts will find comfort in the pages

18

celebrates gingery goodies from the homey to the haute. The recipes, all with entertaining and informative histories, take an in-depth look at crucial ingredients from a fun and informative perspective. The

of this book. There is even a section called “Tastes Like,” which

book offers something for everyone’s tastebuds, from traditional

provides recipes that go toe-to-toe with such iconic baked goods as

gingersnaps to the flawless gingerbread house. Lusciously

Devil Dogs, Honey Maid Graham Crackers, Nabisco Nilla Wafers,

photographed, this book is a delicious treat for you or the food

Ritz Crackers, and Girl Scout Samoas.

enthusiast in your life.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Reunion Weekend More than 200 graduates and guests representing 22 graduation years and 23 states spent the weekend of October 2–3 reconnecting, learning, dining, and dancing at Reunion 2009 on the Hyde Park campus. At the welcome reception, old friends and new acquaintances mingled and shared “war” stories of their days as CIA students. After a delicious dinner at Escoffier or American Bounty, alumni were pitted against students in a raucous and heated game of Culinary Jeopardy. Once again, the students prevailed! On Saturday, after President Ryan shared a CIA update, the doors were flung open to a choice of lectures, panel discussions, and demos on everything from cake decorating to going green.

The stunning finale to the weekend was the dinner/dance prepared by senior B.P.S. students as part of their Restaurant Operations class. Everyone got into the spirit and danced the night away.

Students Make

Halloween a Screeeam!

Everyone was having a grand time at the Halloween/ Talent Drag Show in October. Students donned wild costumes in honor of the ghoulish celebration, while others dressed in drag—bringing their alter egos to the stage to entertain the party goers. A great time was had by all! brian wa gner

alex szczeny as

alice in

wo n de

cher

rl a n d

mise en place no.51, February 2010

harry potter an

d his friends

19

Tea Time

Not Just for the Afternoon It was fitting that Cynthia Gold, the presenter at the August 27

mean that tea doesn’t pair well with food; it just means that we

Zagat Lecture Series on Service, has as her culinary focus an

need to use the tastes, textures, and aromatics of tea to determine

ingredient that epitomizes the art of service. Around the world the

pairing rather than depending on matching regions. As a pioneer

taking of tea is an important ritual, and for some it’s considered

in the areas of pairing tea with food and infusing beverages

an art form. For Cynthia, tea sommelier at The Boston Park Plaza

with tea, Ms. Gold was able to show our students what she had

Hotel, tea represents the ultimate test of skill both in presentation

discovered during her travels.

and inventiveness. Her passion for this culinary super ingredient knows no bounds.

Each lecture attendee was given a plate with a sampling of cheeses, tea-infused pork, and smoked salmon. Then they were

Ms. Gold cut her culinary teeth at Johnson & Wales and continued

asked to pair these very different foods with two beverages—white

her education with baking and pastry courses at the CIA. But it

port infused with black tea with lavender/rose petals, and white

was her mentor, Helen Gustafson, a renowned tea expert, who

port infused with black tea and ginger/lychee. It was clear that the

exposed her to the world of tea. Gustafson was the first person

astringency of some teas could stand up to rich cheeses, oily fish,

to bring fine teas to the menus of Chez Panisse and other great

and spicy foods. For instance, the high astringency of a first-flush

restaurants.

Darjeeling with its light floral notes matched well against a triple

During her presentation, Ms. Gold’s vivid descriptions of her travels to tea-growing countries like Sri Lanka and India brought the practice of growing, harvesting, and processing tea to life for CIA students. She demonstrated and described the proper way to steep various teas, but the bulk of her presentation focused on the

crème Explorator cheese. The astringency of the tea cleanses the palate, lightening the experience, and preventing a deadening of the taste buds. The extended sweet finish of an oolong tea can cool the palate and tame hot spicy foods. In addition, alcoholic beverages infused with tea bring a whole new aspect to the drinks.

culinary uses of tea. As with wine, terroir is an excellent way to

Ms. Gold’s presentation briefly touched on cooking with tea. She

think of pairing tea with foods. However, unlike wine, there are

highlighted its benefits in braising and poaching, in curing and

relatively few regions in the world that grow tea, thus limiting the

brining, and as a finishing touch to a dish. For example, brining

types of cuisines that would naturally pair with them. This doesn’t

meat with tea helps to reduce the amount of salt needed to accomplish the perfect flavor and tenderness.

x Tea-cured Gravla e in sm Ja ’s ld o G Cynthia lt 1 cup kosher sa ga r su n 1 cup brow th sk in on , preferably wi on lm 2 sides of sa c rli ga d ely choppe 2 teaspoons fin er ack pepp Fresh grou nd bl s 1 lemon ll or ot her herb sely chopped di 1 ha nd fu l coar s Green Tea leave 1 cup Ja sm ine e. ga r and set asid lt and brow n su sa er sh ko d on on en Bl y sides of sa lm on the table. La ap wr tic as pl s. of piece es of the filet Spread a la rge er the skinless sid ga rlic even ly ov ad re sp d an plastic

20

By the time her talk was over, it was clear to all who attended that tea time is any time.

Liberally grind black pepper and squeeze the lemon over each side of both filets. Spread ¼ of the salt/sugar mixture out on the plastic wrap to be roughly the size and shape of the salmon sides. Place one side on the mixture, skin side down. On the flesh side of the salmon, sprinkle 1/2 of the chopped herbs and half of the tea. Spread 1/2 of the salt/sugar mixture over the tea. Then sprinkle the remaining tea and herbs over that. Place the other side of the salmon flesh down on the herbs and press together gently. Spread the remaining 1/4 of the salt/sugar mixture over the skin of the top filet.

Bring plastic wrap around salmon and wrap tight. Place in a hotel pan.

Place a second hotel pan into the first and weight it so it presses down on the fish. Refrigerate. Turn fish every 12 hours and check for doneness—a firm feel and translucent look. Depending upon the thickness of the filets, the salmon should take somewhere between 24 and 48 hours to cure.

original art by julian landa

21

A Toast to Our New Beverage Program!

says Director of Education Adam Busby, C.M.C. “The program

By Shelly Loveland

The resulting AWBP will take full advantage of Greystone’s Napa

You’re a seasoned industry professional, so you know better than

Valley location and state-of-the-art Rudd Center for Professional

anyone—beverages are big business. Most of us learned what we know about wines, spirits, beers, coffee, tea, and specialty drinks on the job. But wouldn’t it have been great if you could have gained that knowledge in a matter of weeks rather than years?

Today, aspiring hospitality and beverage professionals have exactly this opportunity. That’s because the CIA at Greystone has just introduced a new 30-week Accelerated Wine and Beverage Certificate Program (AWBP), perfect for anyone with qualified experience who is interested in preparing for a career in wine, hospitality, or front of the house—as well as for chefs who want to broaden their understanding of the “beverage” side of the food

was built with the end user in mind, with real, timely data from real businesses.”

The AWBP at a Glance Wine Studies. In just 30 weeks, students will gain the education and credentials they need to prepare for a wide variety of beverage management careers in industry segments such as fine dining, casual dining, beverage wholesale and retail, and wine companies and wineries.

The only program of its kind in the United States, the AWBP prepares students with a strong foundation of knowledge in wines, spirits, and specialty beverages. It also provides professional service and food and beverage pairing instruction in every course, strengthening these all-important skills. The AWBP curriculum is built on the same Progressive Learning Year (PLY) model that has

and beverage equation.

served as the foundation for the college’s degree programs since

Built with Industry Needs in Mind

we turn out in a culinary student,” says Chef Busby. “There’s this

1976. “The AWBP is the wine and beverage equivalent of what

After receiving an increasing number of inquiries—especially from

‘CIA ethos’ that our students graduate with. They’re professional,

recent college graduates—for a longer-term wines program, the

they’re well-rounded, and they present themselves well—and in the

Greystone team conducted a survey of several hundred industry

wine business, that’s important.”

employers. Participants, from wine companies to wine shop owners to restaurants, were asked to rate and prioritize the skills they sought in job candidates. Service standards, hospitality, and wine and beverage knowledge came out on top. “It helped us delineate what a graduate of this program should be able to do,”

Along with receiving a rigorous, hands-on education, AWBP students will graduate with two valuable additions to their résumé— a CIA certificate and a Certified Wine Professional™ (C.W.P.) designation.

Who Should Apply…and When?

The AWBP is designed for graduates of bachelor’s or associate degree programs in hospitality management, culinary arts management, and related fields, as well as other candidates with qualified industry experience. The program begins September 13, 2010, with an application priority date of April 15, 2010.

Learn More and Spread the Word!

Encourage aspiring hospitality and beverage professionals you know to learn more about the AWBP. Visit www.ciaprochef. com/winecertificate, e-mail admissions@culinary.edu, or call 1-800-CULINARY (285-4627).

Shelly Loveland in a writer/editor at the CIA.

22

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

You Can Come Back!

Manager-in-Training Programs for Alums When you were here, they may have been called “fellows,”

Unique to this program is the MIT Society, an optional group that

“teaching assistants,” or “TAs.” Now they’re referred to as

develops self-funding activities to raise additional professional

“managers-in-training” or “MITs.” It’s not that we can’t make

development dollars. Using start-up monies from the college, the

up our minds about what to call them, it’s that we keep upping

club can take all profits from its team-focused projects and use

the game and increasing the role and depth of experience for

them to pay for professional development courses, online seminars,

this special group of CIA alumni. In fact, the selection criteria

public speakers, and ProChef® Certification for its members.

mirror many of the same

Regarded as a CIA

standards we have for

employee, the MIT has

our faculty candidates.

a 40-hour work week,

The Manager-in-Training

receives an hourly

program has been

wage, accrues vacation

redesigned to set the

and sick time, and has

industry benchmark for

goals and evaluations

post-graduate, on-the-

in much the same way

job training programs

that all staff members

for culinary, baking

at the college do. The

and pastry, and service

increased accountability

management professionals.

and high expectations of

Available to all A.O.S. and

the new MIT program

B.P.S. graduates, the MIT

have helped create a

program is open to you, no

more challenging and

matter how long it’s been

satisfying experience for

since you left the hallowed

our graduates. “It is both

halls of the CIA with your

a leadership opportunity

degree! The yearlong

and a great way to

program has opportunities

continue my education

for MITs in the kitchens

in an area that interests

and dining rooms of all

me,” explains Kevin

five public restaurants on

McCann ’09, an MIT

the Hyde Park campus,

in meat fabrication. The

the baking and pastry arts

30-year-old Syracuse,

department, quantity food

NY native hopes to

production classes, meat

chef thomas schneller (right) mentoring MIT kevin mccann ‘09 (left)

open an Internet-based sausage company. “I

and seafood fabrication, and other key departments throughout the college. At the core of

work with meat and charcuterie every day. I would never be able

the program are self-directed learning modules—task assignments

to get this much hands-on experience working with any other

that are specific to each MIT’s curricular area. An assigned faculty

butcher. This is as much a part of my education as anything I’ve

mentor oversees skills development, and provides direct coaching,

done at the CIA.”

guidance, and daily training. In addition, curriculum deans oversee the faculty mentors, scheduling, job descriptions, and evaluations.

To learn more about this exciting opportunity for CIA graduates, contact MIT Program Manager and Associate Dean for Culinary Fundamentals and Assessment Lou Jones at l_ jones@culinary.edu or 845-451-1654.

mise en place no.51, February 2010

23

THE RATINGS GAME

The quest for diamonds and stars

By Darin Schulz ’83

Arriving guests are greeted with warmth and appreciation. Cold

currently produced in 23 European countries. In 2006, the first

beverages are served well-iced—the cubes solid, never hollow or

North American guide for New York City was published.

crushed. The bread presentation is distinctive and includes an excellent array of fresh, flavorful choices. Guests are served their meal simultaneously, course by course, and it’s cleared away in the same manner. The staff does not require prompting. In fact, they stand ready in anticipation of each guest’s every need.

Mignardises are offered at the conclusion of a totally satisfying

While the exact rating criterion for stars remain carefully guarded and unpublished, restaurants are given Michelin stars based on five measures that include: quality of the product, mastery of flavor and cooking, “personality” of the cuisine, value for the money, and consistency from visit to visit. Stars are awarded to restaurants offering the finest cooking, regardless of cuisine

meal. As they prepare for departure, guests are

style. Michelin stars are only given for what is on

helped into overcoats, cars, and then graciously

the plate. They do not take into consideration

bidden a fond farewell with the thorough attention

interior decoration, service quality, or table

expected of an occasion of this sort. Have you just

settings.

had afternoon tea with Mrs. Obama at the White

Mobil Travel Guide

House or dinner with Prince Harry after a day of polo? No, you’ve just experienced a few of the

Created in 1958 following the introduction of

infinite number of carefully scripted interactions

the U.S. interstate highway system, the guide

that are used by inspectors to judge a restaurant or hotel when earning its top honor or rating.

was designed to encourage people to get in their

The Rating Guides

of the five-star rating, has set the standard for

cars and explore the country. Mobil, originator what constitutes a world-class lodging and

Opinions abound, and restaurant reviewers in your

dining experience.

local newspaper, regional magazine, or favorite Internet blog are not shy about sharing theirs.

Mobil inspection criteria include classifications

But they often represent a broad range of critical

such as graciousness, efficiency, and luxury.

expertise. So whom do you trust? The consumer

Within these classifications are more than 500

wants unbiased and objective information to help them make

criteria that assess staff appearance, behavior,

informed decisions when traveling or dining. Here is a look at

and skill level as well as food quality, housekeeping, and concierge

some of the most respected companies that publish the ratings that

services, to name just a few.

restaurant patrons rely on.

The Michelin Guide

only 44 achieved Five-Star Award status. Up until 2007, Mobil

The original and possibly the most respected rating guide, The

international star ratings in Hong Kong, Macau, and Beijing.

Michelin Guide has been evaluating and recommending restaurants and hotels for over a century. In 1900, when Paris was preparing for the World’s Fair, the Michelin brothers, Édouard and André, developed the guide to help motorists travel safely and well in the newly introduced automobile—sporting Michelin tires, no doubt!

24

Of the more than 8,000 hotels Mobil Travel Guide rated in 2009, rated only North American properties, but in 2008 launched the

AAA Travel Club In 1902, only 23,000 cars were on the roads in the U.S. compared to 17 million horses. That didn’t stop auto enthusiasts in nine different car clubs across the nation from forming the American

Michelin produces many road and travel guides but the Michelin

Automobile Association (AAA). But it wasn’t until 1963 that they

Red Guide is home to the highly coveted restaurant ratings.

adopted a rating system of hotels and restaurants for their tour

Restaurants are given from one to three stars with three denoting

book. This would later become the “AAA Diamond Rating ®

“exceptional cuisine worthy of the journey.” The Michelin Guide is

System.”

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

AAA ratings reflect a combination of overall food, service, décor,

At hotels, inspectors generally spend a few days interacting with staff,

and ambiance offered by the establishment. The highest rating

having a drink at the bar, ordering room service, visiting the spa, and

achievable is five diamonds and it is conferred on establishments

taking advantage of other services that a regular guest would enjoy.

that “consistently provide a world-class experience.” The inspector

These “undercover agents” may even discreetly use stopwatches,

rates everything from dishware and cutlery to printed menus, from

recorders, and checklists to make sure their findings are as accurate as

the manner in which the patron is greeted to food ingredients,

possible.

presentation, and preparation.

Of the more than 60,000 approved and rated establishments that

The Crème de la Crème

AAA listed in 2009, only 103 hotels and 59 restaurants achieved

So what does it take to earn the coveted diamond or star ratings? The

their coveted Five-Diamond Award—a mere 0.28%.

answer seems to lie in exceeding expectations time and time again

The Inspectors The inspector’s job actually starts well before he or she arrives at the restaurant, and will include making a reservation, often using an alias. All senses are used, not just taste buds. The inspector’s eyes discern every move in the dining room as well as the plate presentation. His nose discovers the nuances of the cuisine. His ears attune themselves to the sounds and tempo of the restaurant. He specializes in looking like any other customer.

Inspectors are full-time employees who have undergone extensive training. The food is not the only thing under examination.

Beverage programs undergo the same rigorous scrutiny. Most inspectors have vast experience in the restaurant industry.

without fail. The flawless dining experience begins with a maître d’ who leads an impeccable staff through service that attends to every detail while remaining essentially unobtrusive. Menus are made up of the finest ingredients used innovatively and imaginatively, reflecting the art and the science of fine dining. And while it’s true that a trend-setting chef and accomplished team in the kitchen coupled with a refined front-of-house service staff takes a significant budget, the payoff is worth it. Leisure travelers and fine diners have begun to separate the wheat from the chaff of restaurant reviewers and are increasingly turning to the tried-and-true raters whose standards have been tested over time.

Darin Schulz has served as sous chef at the Greenbrier Hotel/Resort in West Virginia and as sommelier/dining room manager at the Broadmoor Hotel/ Resort in Colorado.

25

KUDOS Winners ALL

Enduring Connections

At the Société Culinaire Philanthropique’s 141st Annual Salon of

For the past seven years, Dale L. Miller ’79 has co-hosted the Cor-

Culinary Arts, the CIA chefs and students all came out winners. The

CIA Food, Wine, and Golf Classic at the Albany Country Club to

International Hotel/Motel Restaurant Show was the setting for the

raise money for student scholarships at both the CIA and Cornell’s

November 2009 competition. The Société—the oldest association of

School of Hotel Management. Every year after the event, Dale arrives

chefs, cooks, and pastry chefs in the United States—was founded in

at the CIA with a check that really makes a difference. This year he

April 1865 by a group of French chefs.

presented the Alumni Scholarship Fund with a check in the amount

Many of America’s most famous chefs are counted among its 400 members. These men and women are responsible for the organization of the annual Salon of Culinary Arts, which has done so much for

of $26,000. We are so grateful for the energy, commitment, and care that Dale puts into this major fund-raiser year after year. He is already planning next year’s event for Monday, June 21, 2010. Save the date!

the promotion of French cuisine in the U.S. since 1866. The Société’s members considered the yearly organization of these Salons as an inheritance, to maintain and grow.

This year’s team coaches were Brad Barnes ’87, C.M.C.; Thomas Griffiths ’80, C.M.C; and Thomas Vaccaro ’85, C.M.B. The winning team included CIA faculty members Chef David Bruno ’88, Best Meat; Chef Phillip Crispo, Best Fish; Chef Alain DeCoster, Gold, Seafood Platter; Chef Hubert Martini, Silver, Duck Platter; Chef Francisco Migoya, Gold, Chocolate Center Piece; Chef John Reilly ’88, Gold, Lamb Platter; Chef Sergio Remolina, Gold, Seafood Platter; Chef Hans Welker, Best in Show, Bread; recent graduate Seon Young Jeong ’09, Best in Show, Wedding Cake; and student Jacqueline Mearman, Gold, Special Occasion Cake. When the Grand Prize of Honor was bestowed, our own Chef Phillip Crispo won for cooking and Seon Young Jeong won for pastry. Congratulations to all!

seon young jeong and her Best in show cake

the winning cia team

26

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

And when it’s time for our annual Alumni Across America fund-raiser, there is no one more committed, enthusiastic, or cheerful than Dave Miguel ’78. He calls in his markers and fellow alumni chefs to prepare amazing food for diners at the Westerly Yacht Club in Westerly, RI. Each year, he and his team raise thousands of dollars for the Alumni Scholarship Fund. In his “other” life, Dave is the department head of the culinary arts program at Grasso Southeastern Technical High School in Groton, CT.

Taking on the World Representing the United States, CIA B.P.S. junior Craig Growney received a Medallion of Excellence at the 2009 WorldSkills Competition in Calgary, Canada in September. The four-day culinary competition featured 22 hours of prep and cooking, during which Craig prepared canapés, duck and lamb entrées, a fish course, a hot dessert, a plate of mini desserts, and a mystery basket from which he produced a two-course meal. For the previous nine months, he trained rigorously under the watchful eye of Chef Bruce Mattel ’80.

Congratulations to them both!

george accepts his award

Fighting the Good Fight George Chookazian ’93 was honored at the 8th Annual Gala to

craig observed by judge and onlookers

benefit the Celiac Disease Center of Columbia University for his commitment and dedication to improving the lives of celiac patients.

His company, Foods by George, was one of the pioneers in the glutenfree food movement. George is also a member of the American Celiac Disease Alliance—an advocacy group based in Washington, DC that petitions the government on behalf of people with celiac disease and brings together industry, researchers, and support groups to chart the course of celiac awareness and treatment.

Crustacean Creation Fall is peak season for Maine lobster, with harvesters bringing in more lobster in October than any other month of the year. So it was fitting that recent B.P.S. graduate MacKenzie Arrington ’09 captured the title of 2009 Maine Lobster Chef of the Year presented by the Maine Lobster Promotion Council this past October. His recipe for roasted lobster tail on braised cabbage and cornbread took top prize. As a native of Boothbay Harbor, ME, Mackenzie has a lifelong affinity for the product. Consider too that his mother, Chef Margaret McLellan, won the same title in 2008! Well done, Mackenzie.

mise en place no.51, February 2010

craig and chef bruce mattel worked tirelessly to prepare craig for worldskills

27

Why Give? “ It’s a wonderful career, but you need really good training. Of course, there is the CIA in New York and California, where you can get really fine training.”

Julia Child, 2000

julia child with cia students and faculty, 1990

Susie Davidson

spirit helped her see both old and new forms of communication

Coordinator, The Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts

Art of French Cooking made its debut, food journalism has made

How did the Julia Child Foundation get started?

Julia Child created the Julia Child Foundation to provide charitable gifts, after her death, to those institutions she supported during her lifetime. The Foundation’s Board of Trustees, who all knew Julia personally, began giving grants in 2008—just three years after she passed away. Many of the recipients are establishments that Child had taken an active interest in, such

as channels through which to reach the public. Since Mastering the huge leaps. Cookbooks devoted solely to ice cream vie for your attention with books exploring the issue of ethical eating. The emergence of food blogs and YouTube has furthered extended the reach of food in the media. Although Child did not live to experience these new frontiers, her ultimate goal was to instill her love of food in as many people as possible via the media.

What does the Foundation hope the scholarship recipients will do with the award?

as the CIA, while others are newer organizations that the board

We want the recipients to be encouraged to pursue food

has decided correspond with her vision of making food more

journalism—keeping Julia Child’s dream afloat for future

accessible through the media. The Foundation’s scholarships are

generations. The recognition that comes with receiving this

not based on need, but rather are given to institutions where the

award should help open doors in the food media business for

money will be allocated to a recipient most likely to carry out

the recipient. The Foundation chooses to give to organizations

her legacy.

that we feel produce individuals who are both food savvy and

What is Julia Child’s legacy in today’s world?

Julia was a trailblazer when it came to getting people interested

intellectually curious. That is why The Culinary Institute of America has received scholarships for two years in a row. Julia Child strongly believed in culinary education and the CIA.

in food, eating, and cooking. Her natural curiosity and innovative

28

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Giving’s Impact “I love reading, writing, and dancing. They allow me to escape the daily grind.

Dancing leaves me feeling free and creative and brings joy to people—which is something I strive to do in all my endeavors whether it’s dancing, cooking, or writing.”

Andrea Morris

Hopes for the Future:

B.P.S. Candidate 2010

Ever since I was young, I was interested in hospitality—throwing

Recipient: Julia Child Foundation Scholarship

and joy of mine, and I plan on continuing doing so as I advance

College Highlights:

City for as long as I can stand the snow, and then moving back to

tea parties for my sisters and stuffed animals. It is still a priority in my career. After graduation, I plan on moving to New York

My externship at Picholine in New York City was an invaluable

California’s Bay Area where I grew up. I’d like to continue to study

experience for me. Living across the country from my family and

the tradition, evolution, and political debate surrounding the wine

far from my comfort zone really taught me about myself. I had to

and beverage industry.

figure out how to make my way in both the city and a high-end kitchen without guidance. Needless to say, there was a lot of trial and error, but I came out of the experience a stronger cook and a more independent person.

My CIA wine class proved to be another highlight. It really

Food writing is another area I’d like to pursue. I love developing recipes as well as studying and discussing gastronomy. M.F.K. Fisher and Michael Pollan are both writers whose work I respect and aspire to emulate.

opened my eyes and my palate to what wine could do for food,

The Impact

and vice versa. Ever since the class, I have taken an active interest

I cannot properly express my gratitude for the scholarship. Aside

in the wine and beverage industry, reading periodicals on the

from the generous gift, which has helped me concentrate more

topic and learning about it as much as a 20-year old—who still can’t

on my schoolwork without worrying about student loans, it has

drink legally—can. I’m looking forward to continuing my wine

opened my eyes to the possibilities of food in the media. Before,

education during the wine seminar that is coming up for my class

I thought about food writing as something I might try “on the

in April 2010.

side” in my free time. Now I am looking at it as an actual career to consider. It has reminded me that my education at the CIA is about more than just cooking!

mise en place no.51, February 2010

29

Menu

for Healthy Kids:)

By Jenifer McEnery

“I can still remember my first experience in a professional kitchen.

worked at a country club. The birth of their son and Laura’s expe-

I was in fourth grade participating in a ‘job shadow’ program with

riences with unhealthy, obese schoolchildren significantly influ-

a local chef,” Rico Griffone ’05 recounts. “I can vividly recall

enced Rico’s food philosophy. He recognized similarities between

standing in the corner watching flames billowing from the sauté

the food he was raised on and the food eaten by many of Laura’s

pan. I’m not sure how, but I just knew that is what I wanted to do.”

students. Rico began making Jonas’s food from scratch. One day

Like many latchkey kids raised in busy, frugal single-parent households, Rico’s food experience growing up was limited to boxed dinners with a dash of salt and canned, processed vegetables. Food

while talking to his father-in-law Bruce about the effects of diet on chronic disease, Rico decided he should focus his culinary talents and food knowledge to help transform school food programs.

was a necessity, not a luxury, and dining out was rare. For special

“Bruce told me to find a partner organization and I immediately

occasions his mother would take his brother and him to Bonanza

thought of the CIA,” Rico explained. “Bruce and Marsha believe

where their eyes would bulge with excitement over the selection

wholeheartedly that if we can change children’s relationship to

of puddings mounded high. As Rico puts it, “I was born with a

food at an early age, we can improve their prospects of becoming

plastic spork in my

healthy adults. They

mouth.”

have dedicated The Bruce and Marsha

It would be several

Moskowitz Founda-

years before Rico’s

tion to this mission.”

desire to cook became a passion for making

This past summer,

and experiencing great

the CIA received

food. He was bartend-

a grant from the

ing at The Bug Jar—a

foundation to inves-

local punk-rock club in

tigate opportunities

Rochester, NY—when

to improve school

two serendipitous

foodservice and,

events occurred; his

ultimately, children’s

boss opened a new

health. Today, Rico is

restaurant called MEX

working with fellow

and he met his wife

alumnus and CIA

Laura. “I jumped at

Professor in Culi-

the chance to run the kitchen at MEX,” he recounts.

By the time he had gotten to know Laura and her family, Rico had mastered a limited selection of dishes appropriate for a modern Mexican restaurant. He was ready for something more.

That “more” included getting married and enrolling at the CIA.

nary Arts Mark Ainsworth ’86 to connect chefs to schools, and connect schoolchildren to healthier, more flavorful food options.

Although just beginning, the initiative has a worthy goal to create a network of chefs and resources that promote improving school food operations and menus for healthy kids.

“Laura’s mother, Marsha, gave me The Making of a Chef by Michael

If you are interested in learning more or would like to get

Ruhlman. After reading it, I decided that the only place for me

involved, contact Rico at ciahealthykids@culinary.edu.

was The Culinary Institute of America. I knew I’d be surrounded by great chefs.”

Jenifer McEnery is a CIA advancement officer.

Laura and Rico married just before he enrolled at the CIA. A few years later they had a son, Jonas; Laura was teaching; and Rico

30

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Alumni Hall (now Farquharson Hall) circa 1976

Alumni Council Corner

Dear Fellow Alums: This past October marked the two-year anniversary of the Alumni Council’s founding. It’s been a busy and productive couple of years.

The Council is always looking for ways to serve our alumni. With the tight job market, many alumni have reached out to the Career Services and Alumni Relations Offices to seek job advice and assistance. In addition, you have access to more than 39,000 fellow alumni. But to build a strong network and make sure it works for you, we need your help to keep your employment information up-to-date. Here are some reasons why: • We want to know what you’ve been up to, and so do your classmates!

• Faculty like to invite our alumni to be guest lecturers or to conduct demos.

• We turn to our alumni in certain fields to provide expertise for newspaper articles, mise en place magazine, conferences, and events both on and off campus.

• It helps us assist students seeking career advice.

So be sure to update your information! It’s easy. Just visit www.ciaalumninetwork.com or e-mail us at alumni@culinary.edu.

Remember, You Make Us Better!

Best regards, Waldy Malouf ’75, Council Chair P.S. Please contact me at waldy@beaconnyc.com if you are interested in getting involved with the Alumni Council.

mise en place no.51, February 2010

31

’76

Daniel G. Eroh is the food service broker specialist for

CDC Food Service Brokerage Company in Willow Grove, PA. Daniel and his wife Constance adopted their daughter Lena

’61

Robert J. Kennedy retired from the Greater Lawrence

Technical High School in Andover, MA, where he taught for more than 37 years.

’63 Ahoy Matey!

Corp., McCormick, Sysco, and Lamb Ronald E. Sieveri retired

Weston & Fishery. Joseph Petras is a

in 2006 from his position as

chef-instructor for Erwin Technical Center

’64

’77

Brian Dwyer is the general

’78

Jim Beley is the general man-

Walter H. Pulsifer III has retired.

Leonard DeRosa is vice president of restaurant opera-

tions at Hilltop Steak House in Saugus,

ager for The Umstead Hotel

and Spa in Cary, NC. The Umstead is a Mobil Five-Star and AAA Five-Diamond

’73

could at least sniff the nearby sea air. Now, she not only can see and

in June 1999.

Edward Brust is a coach driver for Coach Bus Com-

pany in Lancaster, PA. Edward married

hotel.

’79

Kevin E. Carroll is the COO/general manager of

the Loxahatchee Club in Jupiter, FL.

provides challenging educational programs for juniors and seniors

’74

from public high schools. Bringing students on board for a week at a

2009 Lifetime Achievement Award from

time, the crew ties the historical sailing experience to math, science,

manager for The Brooklawn

Country Club in Fairfield, CT.

to work as assistant manager at the famous Irish Pub Ri Ra, Jessica

World Ocean School’s landmark schooner the Roseway. The crew

companies like Tyson, Rich Products

from his fellow classmates.

MA.

smell the ocean, she can “feel” it! Jessica’s new job is chef aboard the

Daniel sells foodservice products from

in Tampa, FL. He would love to hear

After graduation, she headed to Florida to supervise the lounge at up and glimpse the Atlantic Ocean. Heading north to Portland, ME

St. Petersburg to visit Lena’s homeland.

Country Club in West Palm Beach, FL.

window and see the glistening waters of the Hudson River flow by. the Four Seasons Resort Palm Beach, where she could simply look

2005. They have traveled to Moscow and

COO/general manager at the President

’67

When Jessica Reale ’05 was at the CIA, she could look out most any

from St. Petersburg, Russia in November

Nick Spinelli, Jr. is executive chef for Kraft Foods in

Glenview, IL. He recently received the the Research Chefs Association.

Loxahatchee was recently re-named a Platinum Club of America by Club Leaders Forum and ranked ninth of all golf clubs in the country. Carroll was recently elected secretary treasurer of the Club Managers Association of America, where

English, and social studies curricula. The boat and crew split their time between St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands and Boston, MA. Next summer, they’ll travel as part of the core fleet of the Great Lakes United Tall Ships Challenge.

In Memoriam Bruyn Frederick Polhemus ’54

Carl Becerra ’82

Franklin Knight Brown ’58

Anthony P. Chiorazzi ’83

Jessica prepares three meals a day for the crew of 10, onboard a ship

George Damianos ’64

John A. Dyes ’85

that is heeling and being buffeted by the wind. Jessica describes the

Thomas R. Hewish ’69

Glenn Boughton ’88

job as “pretty crazy. When I’m filleting a fresh fish 800 miles off shore

Paul R. Stetz ’72

David M. Lockwood ’88

Geoffrey Birtle ’73

David Bradley ’91

David Pfurr ’74

Christopher Culver, Sr. ’91

Eugene J. Maddalena ’76

David Frank ’93

The boat is a small community where everyone is dependent on each

Kevin F. Taylor ’76

Adam Ike ’94

other to do their jobs impeccably. That means, even if Jessica is sick

Thomas M. Petrie ’78

Margaret Votta ’97

from high seas, she must still produce creative and flavorful meals that

Peter A. Ciccarone ’79

Christopher Davis, Jr. ’98

satisfy. “The crew is counting on me,” she explains. Now in St. Croix

Sharon Scott Lucas ’79

James Silva ’02

for the winter months, Jessica can immerse herself in an adventure like

David Charles Marsh ’81

Thomas Walter Barker ’04

or being lurched around the galley in 15-foot swells, I wonder how I got myself here. But there is no room for boredom and every day I find myself amazed at something new,” she says.

few others ever get to experience…on the sea.

32

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Follow Your CIA Connections

he has served on the board since 2004.

David Katz is owner of Katz Capital Management in Paramus, NJ.

’81

By Jonathan Hayward ’95

Stephen Buckley is director for national accounts for The

Cooking was a mid-life career choice for me. I had

Schwan Food Company in Marshall, MN. He married fellow grad Debbie

owned and operated a small road-paving business and

Farnakis ’81 right after graduation. Lisa

after 17 years I knew there were more stimulating and

Holbrook Callison is food production manager for the Community Food

creative avenues to pursue in life. Fortunately, at age 35, I

Bank of New Jersey, culinary workshop

was in good enough physical shape to endure the rigors

instructor for the ShopRite/Wakefem

of kitchen work and I had no problems handling the CIA

grocery stores, and special event chef for Wakefem Corporation. JoAnn Carolla-

education experience. So, I had my CIA diploma and no

Polt is owner of the new Taos School

idea what I was actually going to do with it!

of Cooking in Ranchos de Taos, NM. It opened in June 2009 and offers courses

After graduation, my biggest dilemma was money; I had spent all my savings on tuition, board, and

for food enthusiasts.

living expenses. There was just enough left in the coffers to make a short move to start a new life. I

’82

John Troiano is executive chef for ShopRite supermar-

kets in Plainview, NY.

’84

Edward Lepselter is a real-

’86

Bruce Rowland is the chef/

’88

Mathew Mitnitsky is chef/

tor for RE/MAX Advantage

Plus in Boca Raton, FL.

already knew from externship experience that hotel/resort work was not for me. The idea of working garde manger for two years held no appeal.

I caught a break one day when I was talking to one of my favorite CIA chef-instructors. “Try Charlottesville, Virginia,” he said. “It’s a small college town with several excellent restaurants.” He passed on a CIA alumni connection to me—the executive chef at an inn outside Charlottesville. I was able to connect with someone in Charlottesville who was going to be out of town for January and February. So I had a roof over my head for free!

owner of Rowland’s Fine Din-

ing Restaurant in Richmond, VA.

Like my heroes, the Clampetts, I loaded up my truck and moved to Charlottesville. I was there only a couple of hours when I sought out my CIA connection, Craig Hartman ’78. I found him at the Clifton Inn, a beautifully situated bed-and-breakfast with an amazing menu. Without an appointment, I

owner of Nonni’s Italian Eat-

stuck my head in the kitchen and found Mr. Hartman. I did have enough sense not to show up during

ery in Concord, NH. In November 2009,

the busy part of the day, and he spent upwards of an hour and a half giving me a restaurant map of

he successfully set a Guinness World

Charlottesville and some names to go with it. To this day, it still amazes me that a stranger took that

Record™ for the world’s largest meatball.

much time with me. I had surely interrupted his prep time—and we all know how valuable that is.

His record-setting meatball weighed in at 222.5 pounds and was made of fresh ground beef, farm fresh eggs, grated Parmesan cheese, unseasoned bread crumbs,

Being January, restaurants were reluctant to bring new people on board. Discouraged and reaching the end of my list of restaurants, I headed to the C&O Restaurant. I found the executive chef—an affable

and assorted seasonings. As soon as the

man in his 30s who also took valuable time out of his day to talk with me. He agreed to take me on for

win was officially verified, the meatball

a trial period. It was by far the best decision I have made in my culinary career. The C&O was already

was portioned and donated to the local non-profit group, The Friendly Kitchen.

well-established in Charlottesville when Craig Claiborne came to eat and wrote a glowing review for The New York Times.

’89

David Paul Brai is chef de cuisine at Al Dente Restau-

Among the many good things about my stint at the C&O was that I got to do a bit of everything—cut fish

rant for Foxwoods Resort Casino in Con-

and meat, make soups, work the line, and, for a year, work as the pastry chef. The executive chef, Thomas

necticut. Khris Durso is the regional

Bowles, was the epitome of a patient chef, exactly what I needed at the time.

manager for Landry’s Restaurant, Inc. in Houston, TX. Kathryn Ross is general

I am no longer at the C&O. I’ve moved on to equally good situations. But as I look back, it’s at the C&O

manager for The Black-eyed Pea Restau-

where I laid my foundation for cooking. My experience there continues to influence everything I do

rant in Houston, TX.

today. I often reflect on the life-changing influence my CIA connections had on my life.

33

’90

James Binner was appointed

’97

Mario Doreste is chef de cui-

He recently received his C.E.C. from the

FL. He is proud to announce the opening

sine at Canajoharie Country

ACF. Barton Seaver was named Chef

of the Savory Street International Café

Club in Canajoharie, NY. John Schmitz

of the Year in the November 2009 edition

and Bakery, also in Sarasota. Matthew

member and/or holds advisory board

is the executive chef at Centerplate in

of Esquire magazine.

Ianetta is restaurant chef running Sear

seats with the American Culinary

Frisco, TX.

division sales manager for

Lactalis Foodservice. He is an active

restaurant in the Atlanta Marriott Mar-

Federation, International Food Service Executive Association, International Food Manufacturers Association, School Nutritional Association, and National Restaurant Association. Kate Wilkin Thorson is the food service director for Flik International, a member of Compass Group North America. Kate is married and has two boys, ages 10 and 8.

’91

Steven Welch recently accepted the position of execu-

tive chef for Cabbage Key, a destination

’98

David Oren is director of dining services for Sodexo

in Bethlehem, PA. Christopher S.

’92

Philip L. Mastin is executive sous chef for the

Piedmont Driving Club in Atlanta, GA. He has responsibility for the major events and tournaments during the fall. Phil was

of the New Hampshire Lodging and Restaurant Association—the youngest in the Association’s 95-year history.

Pacifico is official caterer for the TV show Law and Order: Criminal Intent.

MA.

’99

’03

Sei Fujimoto is executive manager and chef for Inter-

national Dining and Cosi, Inc. Eugene Philbin is the account manager for MAINES Paper & Food Service, Inc. in

chef at Olio Restaurant in

Conklin, NY.

’00

David Lani is executive chef at The Terrace in Henderson,

quis in Atlanta, GA. The hotel recently underwent a $134 million renovation, giving the restaurant a 350-seat capacity.

’06

Catherine Marczak is

’07

Melinda Hawks has been

pastry chef for Fire and Ice on

Toby Creek in Trucksville, PA.

promoted to production sous

chef for Abigail Kirsch, Inc. She married Daniel McCullough ’07 in January

West Stockbridge, MA.

’04

David Lenweaver is restaurant manager at the

Bellevue Country Club in Syracuse, NY.

2010. Daniel is now part of the dining room team at the Blue Hill Stone Barns, in Pocantico Hills, NY.

NV. He was recently voted “best caterer”

Lauren Mitterer is pastry chef/owner

in Henderson. Sasha Rodriguez

of the WildFlour Pastry in Charleston,

Miranda recently opened Miranda

SC. Jarrod Spangler is chef/owner of

Restaurant in Brooklyn, NY. She also got

La Pecora Nera in Ponte Bernardo, Italy.

married in May 2009.

Catch up with David at www.osteriala-

Lennox is pastry chef for BLT Steak

pecoranera.net.

in White Plains, NY. She was recently

’01

Matthew D. Ona is executive chef at Romora Bay Resort

and Marina in Harbour Island, Bahamas.

In 2002, the college opened the doors to the newly named and renovated Farquharson Hall (formerly Alumni Hall).

34

Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Boston,

Deborah Jones is executive

selected by the Atlanta Chapter of the ACF as the 2008 Chef of the Year. David

chef-instructor at Le Cordon

Kozlowski is chairman of the board

island in southwestern Florida that has been featured on the Travel Channel.

’02

Connal McCullough is

’08

Jorge Luis F. Hernandez is chef/cook at Minibar by

José Andrés in Washington, DC. Kaitlyn

featured on NewYorkSocialDiary.com.

’05

Blake Ellis is chef/owner of Eloquent Entrees in Sarasota,

John Pickett is a line cook at the Blue Pear Bistro in West Chester, PA.

AND THE WINNER IS… So many of you submitted such great stories about your most embarassing, surprising, or

hilarious moments at work to the Hyde Park® Collection Carving Set Contest that we decided to award two runner-up prizes as well. Each runner-up will receive a Masters Collection™ 3½ inch Paring Knife. Enjoy these funny and charming stories…we certainly did.

First Place Winner: Joe Tomei ’73 I was executive chef of a restaurant in Brea, CA. While getting prepped for a large Sunday brunch for 300–400, I asked my assistant line cook—an inexperienced kid who wanted to learn about cooking—to put two eggs in each ramekin so we’d have them readily available for poaching and sautéing. He was to fill as many ramekins as would fit on an 18- by 36-inch baking sheet.

After 10 minutes he returned looking confused. “I could only get one egg to fit in each ramekin,” he said.

I didn’t understand until I looked at the sheet pan full of ramekins. He had filled each one with a single egg still in its shell! No wonder he couldn’t figure out how to fit the second egg! I never forgot this story.

Runner-up: Sean J. Moley ’96

Runner-up: James B. Hassell ’96

Right after I graduated from the CIA, I was working at the Four Seasons Hotel, New York City. As the evening pastry line cook, it was my job to create a fabulous daily dessert special. A woman dining with actor Sean Connery asked for my special of the evening. As the waiter handed the dessert to Mr. Connery’s guest, he said, “Sean made this especially for you.” Sean Connery replied, “Well, I am a good actor but she will never believe I pulled that off.” The waiter explained that my name was Sean as well, and we all had a good laugh.

While a student at the CIA, I worked at the Depuy Canal House in nearby High Falls, NY. One afternoon, as I was busily prepping, the phone rang. It was the kitchen phone, so I was caught a little off-guard when the caller started talking about a reservation she had for eight people. She said there had been a death in the family. Anxious to get back to my prep, I quickly did the math in my head and said, “So there will only be seven for dinner?” “No,” she replied. And after an unusually long pause said, “We want to cancel.” Oops.

To read and enjoy the stories that received an honorable mention, please visit www.ciaalumninetwork.com, the site for CIA alumni news.

The Culinary Institute of America Alumni Relations 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538-1499

SIX 1 2 3 4

Great Reasons to Attend These Events...

Mingle

Laugh

Learn

56

Network Dine Connect

New England Foodservice & Lodging Expo

National Restaurant Association Show

March 14–16, 2010

May 22–25, 2010

Boston Convention & Exhibition Center, Boston, MA Join us at the Boston Alumni Reception.

McCormick Place, Chicago, IL Join us at the Chicago Alumni Reception.

Boston, MA Alumni Reception

8th Annual CorCIA Food, Wine & Golf Event

June 21, 2010

March 14, 2010

Albany Country Club, Voorheesville, NY Proceeds to benefit both CIA and Cornell student scholarship funds.

Prudential Center, 800 Boylston Street Hosted by Jason Banusiewicz ’04.

Washington, DC Alumni Reception

2010 Alumni Reunion

April 12, 2010 Good Stuff Eatery hosted by Spike Mendelsohn ’05.

Visit www.ciaalumninetwork.com for information about all these events.

Alumni Relations Admissions 845-451-1401 1-800-285-4627 ciaalumninetwork.com

Advancement 845-905-4275 ciagiving.org

September 24–25, 2010 Hyde Park, NY campus Watch the Web site for information about Reunion 2010.

CIA Web Sites Career Services Conrad N. Hilton Library Professional Development ciachef.edu 845-451-1275 845-451-1270 1-800-888-7850 ciaprochef.com

General Information 845-452-9600