mise en place issue 56 Where in the World is the CIA?

No. 56, June 2011

ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

d l r o W e h t n i e r Whe ?

A I C e h is t

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Postcard illustrations by Leslie Jennings

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Where in the World is the CIA? Alumni around the world share their stories

11 Singapore is Cookin’

New campus opens in Singapore

12 Chef of Century Crowned

2011 Leadership Gala a “Marquis” event

27 A Diamond in the Rough

Hunting up delicacies for the CIA

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12 19 14 Across the Plaza

Witchcraft or Culinary Craft? | Life after CIA | Sushi: The

27 26 Gifts at Work

Be Cool to Your School | Why Give? | Giving’s Impact

Edible Art from Japan | FoodAholics—Creating Brilliant Flavors in India

20 Education for Life

Better Ads Net Better Candidates | Book Shelf | Customer Confidence | Kudos | Worlds of Flavor Conference and Festival

30 Class Notes

Alumni Council Corner | Class Notes | In Memoriam

Anyone who has traveled knows that a huge part of any adventure is the food. Through food, we discover the heartbeat and the soul of a culture and its people. When talking to friends about the joys of a trip, the topic always works its way back to what we ate. I can speak with great passion about seeing Monet’s Water Lilies at the Musée de l’Orangerie in Paris, but it is the memory of the baby moules in garlic sauce I had that same day at Chez Leon

mise en place® No. 56, June 2011 Nancy W. Cocola, Editor Leslie Jennings, Designer

Contributing Writers

that actually makes me drool. I also know that when I wax poetic about the

John Canner

Jenifer McEnery

beauties of the Moorish-style Alhambra in Granada, Spain, my friends don’t

Marissa Sertich ’10

react nearly as enthusiastically as when I describe eating the perfect Paella—

Karen Masri Craddock ’95

which, by the way, the Moors made possible when they brought rice from

Sarah Hassler

Hinnerk von Bargen

Africa to Spain. It’s the food that draws us, satisfies us, and ultimately helps

Ron Hayes ’02

Felicia Zammit

us appreciate a culture. This is especially true of our alumni.

That love of the food and culture of other places begins in the classrooms at

Editorial Board

the CIA and flourishes through travel and exposure. So many of our alumni

Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 President

Chet Koulik

Nancy Harvin Vice President for Advancement

Francisco Migoya

stories are just the tip of the iceberg. Thousands more of our graduates are

Mark Ainsworth ’86

Tama Murphy

practicing their craft in places many of us will only dream about. I found it

Brad Barnes ’87

eye-opening and fun to learn how they came to these foreign lands and what

Sue Cussen

Anthony Nogales ’88

they enjoy so much about being there. Hope you do too.

Ron DeSantis ’81

Nancy Cocola, Editor

Heather Kolakowski ’02

have traversed the world capturing culinary knowledge. And many of our alumni have found their “home” in these foreign locations.

This edition of mise en place gives us a glimpse into the adventures of some alumni who are living and working in different parts of the world, and their

n_cocola@culinary.edu

Chris Loss ’93 Douglass Miller ’89

Jen Stack ’03

Mission

Mise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by: Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students.

Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concerning the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodservice industry. Creating a forum to help alumni network and build community. ©2011 The Culinary Institute of America All rights reserved.

Photography: Keith Ferris, Terrence McCarthy, Anne Rettig, and Mitch Walker

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Bocuse d’Or This past January, the Bocuse d’Or competition took place in Lyon, France. The culinary arts were displayed at the highest level imaginable by 24 teams from around the world. This “best of the best” competition puts a chef and his commis to the test during a 5½-hour marathon of cooking and preparation. During that time, they have to generate two platters—one meat and one fish.

ternational is launching an exciting new line

an essential ingredient in local pasta, how

of wines under the Greystone Cellars label.

wood-fired Altamura bread is made using a

The first three varietals are Cabernet Sauvi-

generations-old recipe, and how the region’s

gnon, Merlot, and Chardonnay. A portion of

fish is creatively prepared.

the proceeds from Greystone Cellars wines will benefit the CIA at Greystone. To learn more, visit www.terlatowines.com/wines/ california/greystone/. You can enjoy great wines and support the CIA all in one sip!

CIA Bakery Café Opens in San Antonio The CIA San Antonio recently opened its first public restaurant—the CIA Bakery Café.

E-Learning Makes it E-asy

Led by Baking and Pastry Department Chair

A 12-member international jury judges the platters on visual merit. Then the creations

Alumni, you’ll find eye-opening information on a variety of topics at www.ciaprochef.

CIA alumnus Jake Griffin ’08. The café

are plated and served to the panel, which then scores them on taste and execution.

com. Imagine an easy-to-access mini-course

There was a Nordic sweep of the med-

on the uses of grapes in the creative kitchen.

als—gold went to Denmark, silver went to

Clearly grapes are not just for garnish any

Sweden, and bronze went to Norway—with

longer! You’ll also find recipes that expand

the U.S. finishing in 10th place. The team of

your repertoire like grape and yogurt raita

James Kent, of Eleven Madison Park fame,

or grape and corn salsa. Interested in the

and his commis Tom Allen, who together

cuisines of Italy? Watch the video Food and

won the Bocuse d’Or USA competition

Wine of Puglia to learn about the food of

in 2010, had been coached for over nine

the region. Discover how “burnt wheat” is

Alain Dubernard, the café is managed by offers a variety of light fare including soups, salads, and sandwiches, and will feature a selection of classic pastries made with specialty items from Latin America and Mexico.

The CIA Bakery Café’s picture window overlooks the college’s teaching kitchen and allows guests to watch both our students as well as food enthusiasts in action as they learn the CIA’s secrets of success.

months by CIA Vice President–Dean of Culinary Education Mark Erickson ’77. Mark explained the feelings of all when he said, “Although we ended up placing lower than we had hoped, it was comforting knowing that the contest was fair and the competitive spirit from all teams was superb. Competitions such as the Bocuse d’Or are meant to inspire creativity and to drive the craft to new heights, and that was surely the case at this event.”

Terlato Selling Greystone Cellars Since 1995, the CIA at Greystone and its neighbor, Markham Vineyards, have been producing a small amount of Greystone Cellars® wines exclusively for the CIA. A recent licensing agreement with Terlato Wines In-

mise en place no.56, June 2011

Cia bakery café, san antonio, tx

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Where in the World is the CIA?

By Nancy Cocola

CIA faculty hail from more than 40 countries, and our students come to the college from across the U.S. and the globe. It’s no wonder that you can find CIA graduates fanned out around the world, using their talents and expertise to influence, and be influenced by, their adopted countries. Journey with us to Antarctica, Papua New Guinea, France, Korea, Hong Kong, and New Zealand, and visit with a few of our alumni who have found their culinary callings far from home. All have taken their CIA experience to a foreign shore and blossomed there.

gemma tarlach ‘07 in front of Mt. Erebus, an active volcano

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www.ciaalumninetwork.com

“Wintering Over” in Antarctica

products. By this writing, winter will have descended and the sun

If you look at a map of the world, it really isn’t that far from New

with powdered dairy products and the ingredients she stored after

Zealand to Antarctica. But the distance between working as a chef de

a massive, once-yearly offload of food, materials, and scientific

partie/pastry at a posh New Zealand resort to working as production

equipment in an event called Vessel Evolution. For the next several

baker at the remote McMurdo Research Station in Antarctica would

months, no planes can get in or out and Gemma is learning to be

appear to be enormous. Enter Gemma Tarlach ’07, the intrepid baker

creative in a whole new way. Tinkering with recipes to get them to

and chef who has found this continent—inhospitable to human life save

work when she’s out of bread flour, sugar, or molasses can be fun and

for the technology that makes it possible—among her favorite places on

maddening, but she loves the challenge.

earth. After trying out McMurdo for a summer as a production baker (when the research facility has a population of 1,000 and temperature hovers at a balmy -5°F to -35°F), Gemma decided to “winter over.”

That means living through Antarctica’s darkest, windiest, and coldest months, when temperatures range between -49°F and -94°F. It takes a special kind of person to “winter over,” and only 200 people remain at McMurdo during those months. And everyone who takes on the challenge must pass a psychological evaluation before being accepted.

will not rise again until August. Gemma will be working exclusively

We all await the time when the darkness lifts and we’ll discover how Gemma survived her first winter on the frozen continent. One thing we do know—those 200 intrepid souls “wintering over” with her are surely eating well.

The Mumu Cooking food in the ground at the New Tribes Mission was, at first,

Gemma loves the barren landscape, the interaction with the station’s

a bit jarring to Beth Devine ’95. She had taken to heart the food

scientists, the quirkiness of her colleagues, the challenge of creating

safety course she completed at the CIA. But while living and working

good food with limited ingredients, and, of course, her beloved

in Papua New Guinea, she soon adapted and learned that though

Emperor Penguins. Flights with supplies are so limited that Gemma’s

only hot rocks, dirt, water, and banana leaves were the walls, doors,

culinary challenges can be as dramatic as the weather she faces. But,

and cooking agent of the native Mumu oven, she could count on the

after working at such venues as a huge Las Vegas casino preparing banquets for 15,000 and a super-exclusive resort catering to only 24 patrons at a time, nothing really ruffles her. She’s gone from having organic flour and exotic fruits at her fingertips whenever she wants to relying on the summer plane from New Zealand for fresh dairy

beth devine ‘95 cooks using a mumu oven

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temperature inside getting to a very safe 415°F. Adaptation has been the watchword of her life at the mission, where she now works as the foodservice director and chef. The mission offers college students a hands-on experience in a tribal setting. In addition, it hosts conferences, retreats, and workshops at the facility.

Beth cooks for between 10–150 people at a time with the assistance of the native women who work with her in the kitchen, which, though not state-of-the-art, resembles a western kitchen. There, Beth has taught the women how to cut vegetables, read recipes, make decorative platters, and bake desserts. At first she believed that all of her dayto-day involvement would build easy, comfortable relationships with the indigenous population. But the culture is driven by the concept of “Wantok,” which requires that if you show someone a kindness,

school in Paris. He spent the next four years in New York wine shops, teaching wine classes (among them, continuing education classes at the CIA) and writing his first book, Wine Basics. That book was meant to give him the financial resources to return to France so he could write a second book, 1855: A History of the Bordeaux Classification. Dewey had heard tales of how Bordeaux was a closed, hermetically sealed region, where you had to be in the wine world for at least three generations before you could belong. But he found the Bordelais people to be much more accessible and welcoming than their reputation implied. During the research for his second book, and in the years since its publication, he has been welcomed by château owners and managers and has never been treated as an outsider.

they must give something of value back to you within a week or two.

Today, Dewey lives in his beloved France with his French wife of 14

That makes it hard to judge sincerity and genuine generosity. This

years. His dream of being independent has been realized through

social “payback” system is not familiar to Westerners and has made

his company DMjWineworks. He writes articles, teaches classes, and

it difficult to build relationships. However, Beth has enjoyed exposing

does translations for châteaux and wine merchants—yes, his French

the women to different ways of preparing food, and they in turn have

has definitely improved! But his main occupation from spring to fall is

taught her the fine art of creating string bags called bilem.

creating itineraries for trips to various wine chateaux. He leads these

In New Guinea since 2003, Beth has learned to stockpile food when it is available. She has been known to buy up as much as 66 pounds of ripe tomatoes at the weekly market, knowing that if she doesn’t grab them when she sees them, the chance is lost. Her creativity is always being challenged as foodstuffs are often a long time in arriving even when ordered in advance. All in all, however, Beth has found her mission—in more ways than one.

Paris or Bust In 1977, Dewey Markham, Jr. ’84 was working as a typesetter, when on a visit to Europe he fell in love with Paris. Not just the run-of-themill sort of adoration we hear from travelers. No, Dewey had the kind of enduring, almost obsessive passion that made it necessary for him to give up his profession and make a complete change. He knew typesetting would not be possible in France, where he was still a

personally designed tours to teach and help his clients appreciate the wine they are drinking. Dewey has indeed made the life he dreamed of way back in 1977.

Where’s the Breakfast?

The first thing that Bruce Laudermilk ’76 noticed when he arrived in Daejeon, South Korea was not the tension surrounding the tenuous armistice between North and South Korea that has lately been so sorely tested, but rather the fact that he couldn’t find breakfast. In his role as professor and culinary instructor of a multi-national faculty at the Woosong Culinary Academy, he has learned many things about the food, culture, and people of South Korea, and now he knows why he couldn’t find one of his favorite meals. In South Korea, food does not vary from mealtime to mealtime. So breakfast fare is the same as lunch and dinner fare. This was only the first revelation for Bruce.

novice at the language. He figured that people everywhere had to eat,

His total immersion in the local cuisine—from the spices and flavors

and since he enjoyed cooking, he thought culinary studies would equip

that make Korean food completely unique to the signature dishes of

him to return to Paris with a skill. He sought out the CIA, where he

kimchi, bulgogi, and bibimbap—has been a great joy for him. And

received a degree in culinary arts.

he’s learned that whether someone is a professional chef or a home

Upon his return to Paris, Dewey worked at a cooking school from 1986–89. During those three years, Dewey set up a European chapter of the CIA Alumni Association, which put him in contact with recent CIA grads working as apprentices in Paris restaurants. What their experience showed him was that French chefs are surprisingly open to training and working with Americans. But he had to return stateside when his contract expired.

Dewey reinvented himself by making the transition from cuisine

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to wine—a subject that had captured his avid attention when at the

cook, everyone there is an expert at using virtually every part of every ingredient. He’s also found that the concept of “courses” doesn’t exist, and that all the dishes of a meal are placed on the table at the same time. Bruce has noticed that Koreans tend to get things done in their own way, and in their own time. He has come to really enjoy the people’s wonderfully generous natures even as he is learning to slow down his own natural pace. Bruce believes that if his experience in South Korea has taught him anything, it is the need for patience. He is learning to relax and savor the opportunity to help the youth in our

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

industry develop strong skills and knowledge. Oh, and he occasionally

It seems like it would require a huge adjustment to move all the way

makes himself a good old-fashioned American breakfast.

across the world to live and work in Hong Kong, but James describes CIA grads as amazingly resilient and prepared. “They have proven

CIA Leads in Hong Kong

to be seasoned travelers and incredible examples of hard work and

“The world is too large, and life too short to settle,” says Beth

do not disappoint. We also look to them to lead by example when a

Cosgrove ’06, restaurant chef at the American Club. She expresses

situation requires that everyone pitch in. This concept of flexibility is

a common sentiment found among the staff at the renowned club

not something common in Asia, and it certainly helps to improve the

in Hong Kong—a staff whose leadership is made up entirely of CIA

overall operation when everyone of our CIA staff models that behavior

graduates. Director of Food and Beverage Suzanne Storms ’98 had

and gets the job done.”

stamina. We require our CIA staff to be instant leaders and they

always wanted to work overseas. After her externship in Beijing and work in the United Arab Emirates, she found the Club. Executive Chef Josh Nudd ’94 made his way to Hong Kong after developing a love of Asian-influenced cuisine while working in various locations for Jean Georges Vongerichten. Food and Beverage Service Manager

But there are definite challenges in being expatriates, and all of the CIA alums have learned important things about culture and food through this opportunity. Here are just a few of their observations…

• There are seven million people living on the little island of Hong

Danielle Giambattista ’06 had set going to Hong Kong as a personal

Kong, with 21,000 people living in each square kilometer. The place

goal back in 2009, when working for Gordon Ramsay Holdings

is packed!

Limited. In 2010, after a job search that included the CIA’s Career Services Department, she landed work at the Club. Sous Chef Angela Chin ’10 had her heart set on visiting Asia. Being fluent in Cantonese made her a perfect fit. But it was American Club General Manager James DiRenzo who really made these opportunities possible. When

• There are 11,000 restaurants serving everything from classic congee (rice porridge) to western fare. You can eat any kind of food, but there is competition everywhere.

• Most foodstuffs are imported to Hong Kong, leaving some of our

he first arrived in Hong Kong, he was charged with elevating the

CIA grads missing the emphasis on seasonality and locavorism they

standards of the food and beverage offerings at the American Club’s

learned at the CIA.

nine restaurants. “Our global brand and world-class standards are as fiercely protected and cherished as those of the CIA, so the relationship was a natural one,” James explained.

bruce laudermilk ‘76

mise en place no.56, June 2011

• The Chinese utilize every part of an animal in their cuisine, which is how Angela got to eat fried chicken cartilage for the very first time.

left to right: chris chan (extern), joshua nudd ‘94, suzanne storms ‘98, james d i renzo, beth cosgrove ‘06, and angela chin ‘10

dewey markham, jr. ‘84

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• Suzanne believes China is a modern-day powerhouse and that one shouldn’t let the traditional open-air markets, where meat is hanging

conference asked Julia to be its keynote speaker. Julia fell ill and

on hooks, fool you into thinking otherwise.

couldn’t make the trip, so the group asked Stephanie to come in

While Hong Kong is fairly westernized, there is still a classic Chinese approach to thought, relationships, and everyday life. All our grads have found that their upfront American friendliness is disconcerting to the Chinese people. But in general, they have experienced the generosity of the Chinese. And members of the American Club are thrilled to make a connection with a CIA grad who may be from their hometown or state. For them, the Club is a small slice of home.

Zealous About New Zealand

Julia’s stead. Once she stepped off the plane on that far-away Pacific island, Stephanie knew she had found home. The beautiful country, lovely people, outstanding wine, and delicious food had her returning there after Julia’s death. Today, Stephanie is a primary school teacher who runs children’s cooking programs. In addition, she leads Pionair culinary tours taking visitors to local markets, growers, and vintners; offering hands-on cooking lessons; and sharing her absolute passion for the culture and cuisine of her adopted country. That zealous feeling drove her to become a citizen, and now she shares her allegiance between the U.S. and New Zealand.

Stephanie Hersch ’85 had a somewhat circuitous journey to her

Every alum in this article is living a complex and satisfying life.

life in New Zealand. After graduating from the CIA and working at

Each describes the challenges as worth the rewards, and almost all

various hotels in Boston, she had a hankering to see other places but

recommend taking advantage of the opportunities that travel and

did not have the financial means to do it. So, she came up with a crafty

work abroad affords culinarians. Some have found permanent homes,

plan. She’d get a job in corporate America in a new and different city.

while others imagine returning to the states after they have absorbed

Once there, she would eventually reestablish her culinary career.

as many of the world’s culinary cultures as possible. But whether you

However, while she was taking a three-month Katherine Gibbs

work close to home or in the farthest reaches of the globe, you can be

Secretarial School course to prepare her for the jump to corporate life,

sure that no matter where in the world you are, there is a fellow CIA

Julia Child contacted the school looking for a secretary with a culinary

grad happy to hear from you.

background. Before Stephanie knew it, she became Julia Child’s executive personal assistant—what a gig!

julia child and stephanie hersch ‘85

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In 2001, a group organizing the Savour New Zealand culinary

Nancy Cocola is the editor of mise en place magazine, and a writer/editor in the CIA’s Marketing Department.

Singapore is Cookin’ Why open a new campus in Singapore? Most of us are not even sure

with an excellent strategic plan. The government educates its people

if it’s a city, a state, a country, or an island. But though small (only

against that plan and everyone works towards similar goals to achieve

274 square miles), with four competing official languages (Mandarin,

mutually beneficial results.”

Malay, Tamil, and English) and a complex food culture incorporating Chinese, Indian, Indonesian, and Malay influences, Singapore turns out to be the perfect place for the CIA to offer its proven culinary degree program.

Chef Felder is pleased with the students they are attracting into the program. She describes the Singapore students as very disciplined.

“If you ask a question or want them to do something, the answer is always ‘can.’ They are a society of can-do people who are constantly

The government of Singapore recognizes tourism as a major part of its

encouraged to be the best they can be in every facet of their lives,” she

economy. The tiny island country (yes, it’s a country) absorbs upwards

explains. In fact, Chef Felder has been very impressed with the level

of 10 million visitors a year. The wish to provide superior service in

of their work. For one of their gastronomy projects, students arrived

all areas of the hospitality industry required exceptional training.

with multimedia presentations, cooked, and even “dressed” the part.

That was why Singapore reached out to the CIA and encouraged a

One young woman who had been researching Julia Child did her

partnership.

presentation in Julia’s unique accent!

In collaboration with the Singapore Institute of Technology (SIT) and

Chef-instructors from our other campuses are teaching the curriculum

Temasek Polytechnic, the CIA has a brand-new, 30,000-square-foot

in Singapore. At the time of this writing, Brannon Soileau and Howie

facility in which to offer its bachelor’s degree program. The course of

Velie are enjoying the opportunity. The out-of-class activities have

study mirrors the rigorous BPS curriculum found at our Hyde Park

been remarkable and our students have been able to meet such

campus and is open to graduates of Temasek Polytechnic’s Hospitality

luminaries as Mario Batali, Daniel Boulud, Wolfgang Puck, Guy

& Tourism Management, Leisure & Resort Management, or Culinary

Savoy, and Justin Quek at the opening of the Marina Bay Sands.

& Catering Management programs.

Chefs Batali and Boulud took the time to share their insights with

At the opening of the new facility, CIA President Tim Ryan explained, “By establishing a campus at the heart of Asia’s culinary crossroads, the CIA will be able to provide greater access to its gold-standard culinary education. This degree program is starting at a time of promising growth in the Singaporean Tourism industry.” That growth, according to CIA Singapore Managing Director Eve Felder, is 14% annually. She explains, “Singapore is the busiest port in the world,

the students and tour them through the kitchens of their restaurants.

Many of our alumni are also taking advantage of living and working in this exciting, sophisticated, and vibrant country. Adam Crocini ’98 is general manager for Wolfgang Puck’s Cut Steak House, Eric Bost ’98 is executive chef for Restaurant Guy Savoy, and Eileen Tay ’07 is chef/owner of Artistic Sweets. Look them up if you are ever in Singapore, or swing by our new campus for a tour.

the leader in medical service and research in Asia, and is a country

managing director eve felder ‘88 (front left) with her first class of bachelor’s degree students and visitor rochelle huppin ‘87 (center)

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chef of the century crowned

jerome bocuse ‘92 (right) and corky clark ‘71

paul bocuse

duff goldman ‘98 puts finishing touches on augie cake

richard marriott

tim ryan ‘77 and michael chiarello ‘82

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cia students with paul bocuse

jacques pépin with daniel boulud

daniel boulud and his augie

cia students prepared all hors d’oeuvre

dessert!

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

By Nancy Cocola Every morning in Lyon, France you will find renowned Chef

He agreed heartily with Thomas Keller, who eloquently explained,

Paul Bocuse at les halles—the market—on a mission to find the

“Every generation has ‘nouvelle’ music, fashion, art, and cuisine,

finest, freshest ingredients to take back to his flagship restaurant

and that’s as it should be.”

L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges. As he strolls along, a fraternity of fellow chefs, all of whom have restaurants in Lyon and count Paul Bocuse a friend, join him. They are there not only to shop but also for their habitual daily petit déjeuner. As they linger over their breakfast, they talk of ingredients, business, family, and the future of food.

It’s not so strange then, that the CIA’s 2011 Leadership Gala held at the Marriott Marquis on March 30, felt less like a formal gathering of culinary luminaries and more like a reunion of longtime friends who’d come to dinner to talk about ingredients, family, business, the future of food, and to honor a few of their own.

The entire day was filled with heartfelt tributes, most especially for Paul Bocuse, that began with a panel discussion moderated by CIA President Tim Ryan ’77. Open to a select group of media and CIA students, the panel consisted of Paul Bocuse, Jerome Bocuse ’92, Daniel Boulud, and CIA Trustee Thomas Keller. Each member of the panel recounted how Chef Bocuse influenced his life.

The spirit of bonhomie that was so obvious during the panel discussion carried over to the evening’s Gala event. CIA Leadership Awards, called “Augies,” were given to Chef of the Century, Paul Bocuse; Chef of the Year, Daniel Boulud; Alumni of the Year, Jerome Bocuse ’92 and Michael Chiarello ’82; and Frances L. Roth Award recipient, Richard Marriott.

Upon receipt of his award, Chef Paul Bocuse shared the story about how, while in the French resistance during World War II, he was shot and wounded. Taken to an American field hospital, he received a transfusion of blood. He likes to say that “I still have American blood in me.” Interestingly, it is in America that the French contingent at the gala made their mark.

Though he apprenticed in France, Daniel Boulud has found success in the United States. Jerome Bocuse came to America and the CIA to study and, as vice president of the Chefs de France restaurant at Epcot in Florida, has spent almost his entire professional life in the U.S. Eric Ripert, who introduced Daniel to the podium, is also a

Jerome, of course, had memories of a loving father who every

Frenchman who has dazzled diners at his restaurant Le Bernardin

afternoon would drop whatever he was doing in the restaurant

in NYC. In the audience to witness their countrymen’s success

kitchen to come and pick him up at school. Years later, after Paul’s

were French chefs and luminaries Jacques Pépin, André Soltner,

visit to the CIA, Jerome recounted how emphatically his father

and Alain Sailhac, all of whom have found their culinary success

“suggested” he attend the best culinary school in the world—the

in the U.S. as well.

CIA. Daniel Boulud was a 14-year-old apprentice in the kitchens of one of Paul’s dear friends in Lyon when he first met the great chef.

It was Paul’s willingness to educate and motivate others about food that made a lasting impression on Chef Boulud. Indeed, Daniel has carried on that tradition and done the same for the hundreds of CIA students who have externed or become staff members at his many restaurants. Thomas Keller credits Chef Bocuse with making it possible for chefs to express their own point of view about food.

“Paul championed a lifestyle for chefs that resonated with me,” he explained.

As for Chef Bocuse, he spoke with a mixture of humility and pride about the inspirations in his life and the beliefs he lives by. He told of the indelible impression his mentor Fernand Point left on him, the importance of starting with great product, the primacy of the

Not to be outdone by the French contingent, honoree Michael Chiarello recounted a delightful story of meeting Chef Bocuse when staging in France. While Michael worked frantically, using CIA techniques, to keep a beurre blanc from separating, Chef Bocuse walked down the line in the kitchen exclaiming, “that sauce will break.” When it was done, Michael’s sauce was intact, and Chef Bocuse dipped two fingers in the pot, tasted the sauce, and declared, “Bon!”—good.

Richard Marriott, acknowledged for his remarkable service to the industry as well as for his philanthropy, gave a poignant speech that acknowledged the honor of receiving the Frances L. Roth Award, and focused on three things that keep him going—his work, his church, and his wife.

customer and their experience, and his concerns about food safety,

For those who attended the Gala, the warmth and humor

especially in his beloved Japan. When the talk turned to his role in

evidenced by all the recipients and the people who introduced

creating nouvelle cuisine, he scoffed. “That was a phrase created

them was supremely engaging. Indeed, it felt as if everyone was

by the media to give them something to write about,” he explained.

just getting together for dinner to talk about ingredients, family,

“We were just 12 chefs working to create a delicious and elegant

business, the future of food, and to honor a few of our own.

food for Air France’s new Concorde. We were all about the food.”

mise en place no.56, June 2011

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Witchcraft or Culinary Craft?

By Sarah Hassler

surrounding me, I attack my homework with fierce determination. I find myself wanting to put in the extra time, and somehow cracking the books on gastronomy and product knowledge does not feel like work. Though I won’t pretend to enjoy the biological terms and heavy discussion of taste buds, for the most part, the topics fascinate

My first weeks at The Culinary Institute of America swept by

me. I find myself reading more than I’m assigned. Who knew

in such a whirlwind they are difficult to describe. However, I

botulism studies could be so invigorating?

distinctly remember walking through the halls and thinking to

Equipped with knives instead of wands, CIA students are eager to

myself, “This feels like Hogwarts.” I soon discovered that my

make culinary magic. Everyone talks of getting into the kitchens,

classmates and even some of my professors felt the CIA was

and of which chefs yell the most, which are the kindest, and,

akin to a school of magic. Not unlike the ghosts of great wizards

especially, which kitchens cook the best dishes. Every night during

that haunt the halls of Hogwarts, the greats of our industry are

first term, we gather for banquet at day’s end. Banquet offers an

omnipresent as you enter Roth Hall. Escoffier, Point, Bocuse, and

opportunity to meet new people, and, for the last few weeks, I have

Keller are spoken of so frequently, you half expect to see them

sat down with different students for each meal—quickly coming

standing there when you turn a corner.

to the conclusion that the CIA student body is made up of real

And like the texts at Hogwarts, with names like The Black Arts and

characters. I’ve dined with a man whose hair was so brutally

Spell Casting 101, the names of CIA texts are similarly unusual for a college. Here you will find The Professional Chef and Baking and Pastry: Mastering the Art and Craft. I find myself feeling a bit too much like the character Hermione Granger in my excitement to learn and discover all I can from those books. Huddled in the Apple Pie Bakery Café, with my books, papers, and coffee cups

gelled it didn’t move, a guy who wouldn’t eat a morsel of bread for fear that it would ruin his gym workout, a young girl who described what it means to be a “serious cheerleader,”

and one fellow who put Tabasco sauce on everything he ate—everything! There is also

the requisite venting about roommates and the horrors of sharing bathrooms, all of which make me glad I chose to live in an apartment right up the road in Rhinebeck.

But most of my classmates are friendly, fun, and incredibly eager to learn. All are zealously open to new experiences. Given that attitude, it is no small wonder that this school feels so magical.

Walking past the gently lit courtyards in the evening or along the winding stone paths only enhances that impression. Perhaps what we are feeling at those moments is the promise of bright futures, great opportunities, and dreams becoming realities. Whatever it is, this is my dream come true. I’m getting to study a craft I love in a place that feels as if there is magic in the air. The only question left sarah hassler in the hogwarts-like farquharson hall

14

I suppose is, “When is potions class?”

Sarah Hassler is pursuing her BPS in culinary arts management and expects to graduate in 2013.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Life after CIA Navigating the Culinary Seas

By Marissa Sertich ’10

Your time at the CIA passes quickly and before you can say “maillard

Ariel Hasbun ’10 works as a pastry cook/confectioner at both

reaction,” toques are being tossed in the air at graduation and

Fischer’s Fritz and Schneiders Schokoladen in Berlin, Germany.

President Ryan is wishing students a fond farewell. With heads full

Shortly after graduation, she moved to Germany. In those early days,

of gastronomic treasures and hearts full of passion for their craft,

she spent a lot of time contacting CIA graduates who had traveled

graduates step into a world where navigating through the culinary seas

abroad, to discuss the constant questions that filled her head. They

can be a tricky business. Simply by maintaining the friendships forged

became her support system and introduced her to friends they knew

at school, the journey can feel more like smooth sailing.

in Berlin. Ariel believes that “ultimately, the CIA taught me how to

As a recent grad, I am just now realizing that the CIA gave me so much more than kitchen skills. It gave me a remarkable, pre-existing

network, and from those great connections I’ve been able to stage in Michelin-star restaurants both in Germany and in other countries.”

network of intelligent, capable people—those with whom I shared

Abby Hammond ’10 works as a pastry assistant at Farallon

my culinary trials and triumphs. In an industry where entry-level

Restaurant in San Francisco, CA. For her, the essence of support

employees are often overworked and underpaid, the network of friends

began when she was at the CIA advising a classmate about choosing

we make at the CIA can transform those initial experiences from

the perfect externship site. Now that she is out in the industry, she

lonely and isolated to supported and guided.

explains, “It is a great feeling to still have a sense of community

Even as they are working hard and gaining knowledge, my classmates, who are in all corners of the globe, are still helping me navigate my

supporting you. My friends and peers continue to keep in touch through e-mail, phone, and Facebook.”

Lauren Deitsch ’10 works as a research and development assistant at

way—making me feel unstoppable.

Lake Champlain Chocolates in Burlington, VT. When she looks back

Networking At Its Best

on her CIA experience, it was Chef Richard Coppedge’s Advanced

I have often shied away from networking because it sometimes felt parasitic and dishearteningly disingenuous. But networking needn’t be about climbing up the industry ladder. It can be the act of encouraging your peers and feeling truly invested and excited about their accomplishments.

Baking Principles class that really changed her. “Chef taught me how to be decisive about my baking and inspired me to start looking further than just the recipe,” she says. Now that she is out in the field, it is her fellow alums she turns to, explaining, “We are out here together, and I know it will always be a mutual exchange of advice, experiences, and encouragement.”

Every time I meet a CIA grad who is following his or her passion, I realize we are linked, now and into the future. Here are the words of just a few of my fellow alumni who are taking their CIA past and turning it into success, with a little help from their friends.

So always remember, there are thousands of alumni—40,000+ to be exact—out there and ready to help you navigate the culinary seas.

Marissa Sertich is baker at Flour Baker + Café in Boston, MA, as well as a freelance writer.

marissa sertich ‘10

mise en place no.56, June 2011

ariel hasbun ‘10

lauren deitsch ‘10

abby hammond ‘10

15

Sushi

The Edible Art from Japan

By Hinnerk von Bargen

16

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Few things have affected the culinary world like globalization. Within

Combine the rice and water with a small sheet of konbu in a pot with a

the last two decades, inquisitive culinarians have been catapulted

tight-fitting lid; bring to a boil over a high flame, stirring only once or

into the future, and walking through any big city exposes us to

twice to prevent sticking. Once the water simmers, remove the konbu,

countless opportunities to enjoy authentic culinary delicacies from

close the lid, and steam the rice over the smallest possible flame for

all over the world. Many foreign foods are now mainstream items in

approximately 10 minutes. Then remove it from the heat and let it rest

most supermarkets, and almost every well-stocked grocery store will

for another 20 minutes. Do not remove the lid or stir the rice; it is very

have several aisles full of imported delicacies well beyond jasmine

fragile at this stage and the grains would break and become pasty.

rice and soy sauce. One example of this trend is the exploding

While the rice rests, combine Japanese rice vinegar, sugar, and salt for

popularity of sushi, which was once familiar only to a select few, as

the seasoning mixture. The rice vinegar contributes a pleasant acidity

its high price in high-end Japanese restaurants discouraged many

and the sugar counteracts its tartness. The salt ensures an overall well-

would-be connoisseurs. Recently, however, sushi has made its way

rounded flavor.

into moderately priced mainstream restaurants as well as take-out establishments and the refrigerated section of many grocery stores.

After the resting period, sprinkle the vinegar mixture over the rice and mix carefully with a wooden spoon; a hard metal tool would

Sushi Basics

break the fragile grains and result in a metallic flavor. Place the rice

Sushi has its roots in the need to preserve fish. Salted fish and/or

step will cause the rice to become shiny. Once the rice is no longer too

seafood is inter-layered with rice in wooden molds, pressed, and

hot to touch, cover it with a clean damp towel to prevent drying out.

left to ferment for several months. Commonly, rice vinegar is added

Having all toppings or fillings cut ahead of time will allow you to start

to control the fermentation and add a pleasant flavor and acidity.

preparing the sushi before the rice overcools. Cold rice is stiff, making

Difficult to find nowadays, preserved sushi is known as nare sushi.

it difficult to handle. Additionally, cold rice tastes pasty and dulls

Unfermented descendants like battera or oshi sushi, which means

the flavors of the filling or stuffing. Hence, sushi should be enjoyed

“pressed” sushi, are still popular.

immediately after it is done.

Contrary to popular belief, sushi does not always contain raw fish.

Literally translated, the word means “seasoned rice,” and that is

Maki Sushi

exactly what sushi is: perfectly cooked, slightly vinegared, sugared,

A makisu, a 10 x 10-inch mat woven from bamboo and cotton string,

and salted rice combined with various toppings or stuffings such as

is an essential tool for making maki sushi, or cylindrical sushi rolls.

seafood, vegetables, or, sometimes, meat. Oftentimes, konbu is briefly

For sanitary reasons, wrap the mat in plastic. Maki sushi is generally

simmered with the rice. This giant kelp, a common ingredient in

wrapped in nori, a dried sheet of pressed laver algae. However, other

Japanese cuisine, is rich in glutamic acid, a natural flavor enhancer.

coatings such as a thin omelet or toasted sesame seeds are common.

Condiments served with sushi include Japanese soy sauce, wasabi, and

Another important ingredient when preparing sushi is tezu, the “hand

pickled ginger.

vinegar,” a mix of equal parts rice vinegar and water. Applying it

Preparing the Rice

into a bowl and fan cold air over the rice to cool it down slightly. This

sparingly to your hands will allow you to handle the rice without it sticking.

Proper preparation of the rice, the main ingredient in sushi, is

For maki sushi, place the bamboo mat on a clean surface, cut a sheet

essential. Japanese short grain rice is the only kind suitable for sushi,

of nori in half with a pair of scissors, and place it on the mat. A small

and only the highest grades should be used. Its relatively low starch

spritz of water will make it less brittle and easier to handle. With

content results in just the right cohesiveness and mouthfeel.

moist hands, spread the sushi rice gently on the sheet in a ¼-inch

It is important to wash the rice thoroughly in several changes of water to remove all surface starch; neglecting this step results in gooey and sticky rice balls. When the water runs clear, let the rice sit in water for 20 minutes before you drain it. Make sure to use clean-tasting water to cook the rice. Strongly chlorinated water or other flavors will affect the final product. Filter the water if necessary. Since the rice has absorbed some water during the washing and rinsing process, equal amounts of rice and water by volume are sufficient to cook the rice. More water would cause the rice to overcook.

mise en place no.56, June 2011

layer, leaving the top ½ inch bare. If desired, smear some wasabi onto the rice and place the filling lengthwise onto the middle of the rice.

The filling can be anything you choose and should be of impeccable quality and freshness; most common is raw, smoked, or cured fish, cucumbers, or other vegetables with a similar texture. For a regularsized sushi roll, the filling should not be thicker than ¼ to ½ inch for easier rolling. With the filling in place, hold the mat with both hands and carefully roll the bottom end over the filling, taking care to press evenly across the entire roll. Continue to roll until the roll seals itself with the bare nori. Wipe a very sharp knife with a damp cloth and

17

cut the roll in half, and then cut the two pieces into thirds or quarters,

well as battera sushi.) For nigiri, chirashi, and sashimi, however, it is

resulting in six or eight pieces of sushi respectively, the common size

imperative to use the best pieces.

of maki sushi.

There are two ways to slice sashimi: the flat cut and the angled cut.

Nigiri Sushi

When you cut the fish, remove all sinews, fatty parts, skin, and

Another popular shape is nigiri sushi, literally meaning “hand-

very sharp knife with a long blade, preferably a sashimi knife; these

pressed” sushi. This version takes some practice to master. Nigiri

are only sharpened on one side of a blade, resulting in a very smooth

sushi is small ovals of pressed rice with a firmly placed topping such

cut. The knife should be sharp enough to slice through the fish in one

as thin slices of fish or omelet. To prepare, start with moist hands and

stroke; a back-and-forth motion with the knife would rip the fish. Make

press the rice to a rounded oval not more than ¾ inch thick. Once the

sure the fish is dry and cold; well-chilled fish is firmer and therefore

rice is shaped, spread some wasabi on it and place a thin slice of raw

easier to slice. Arrange the fish nicely on sushi rice for chirashi, roll

fish on the wasabi side. Then place the roll, with the fish side down,

it into a sushi roll, or use it for nigiri sushi. Additionally, it is as good

into the palm of your hand and press down with the stretched index

enjoyed by itself as sashimi.

and middle finger of the other hand until the fish is firmly attached to the rice. Sometimes a thin strip of nori is wrapped around the nigiri, resembling a belt.

bloodlines; they would negatively affect flavor and texture. Use a

A Culinary Delight, Anytime My friend and colleague Chef David Kamen once said, “One has not

Chirashi Sushi and Sashimi

lived until he has had sushi at 5 a.m. at a small sushi bar at the Tsukiji

A very simple yet elegant way to serve sushi is chirashi, or “scattered”

agree. Well-prepared sushi with the rice still slightly warm and the

sushi. Warm sushi rice, served in a lacquer box, is decoratively topped

tuna or salmon melting in your mouth is a culinary delight at any time.

with sashimi. Grated daikon radish and shiso leaves are common

Enjoy it with a cup of sake or, if it is early in the morning, with a cup

garnishes.

of unsweetened green tea. Whatever the occasion, sushi is always a

Sashimi is raw fish or seafood sliced into pieces about 1 inch wide by

Fish Market in Tokyo.” Having had the pleasure myself, I heartily

good choice.

1½ inches long by ¼ inch thick, and served with soy sauce, wasabi,

Hinnerk von Bargen is a faculty member at the CIA San Antonio. He holds a

and pickled ginger. For obvious reasons, the fish for sashimi needs to

Master Chef certificate from the Hotel School in Hamburg, Germany, and is a

be impeccably fresh. Additionally, only prime pieces of the fish are

certified hospitality educator. Chef von Bargen has lived, worked, and traveled

good enough; for example, the thickest part of the center piece of the

extensively throughout Asia.

salmon. (The thinner pieces of the fish can be used for maki sushi as

18

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

FoodAholics

Creating Brilliant Flavors in India

By Jenifer McEnery

“How does it taste?” CIA graduate and chef Kishi Arora ’04

of urbanization. There is a growing demand for convenience foods. It

challenges me from across the table in a crowded American-style café

is also increasingly difficult to maintain the traditional foodways, like

chain in Delhi. “Does that taste like New York cheesecake to you?”

buying local, that are now so in vogue abroad. In India, the need for

It tasted decidedly more like a sweet, custard-filled pie than cheesecake, to me. In fact, the cream cheese is barely detectable, but

new job opportunities created by plants producing and distributing packaged foods is economically desirable.

the pie is good. Kishi laughs and says, “It has been Indianized. It works

“In the past, Indians would enjoy quality, organic food and be

though, right? It’s brilliant!”

careful that nothing went to waste,” Kishi explained. “Now, there

When Kishi returned to Delhi after training at the CIA and working for a time abroad, the limited flavor range of global cuisine surprised her. Unlike most American-trained restaurateurs like Kishi, Indian chefs and restaurateurs tend to personalize recipes as though cooking at home rather than replicating or standardizing recipes. This is why no two Indian dishes are ever the same, much less able to be

are preservatives, convenience foods, and leftovers. This is a new thing. But I feel that food requires the human touch!” In Delhi, where delicious meals are sold and served out of every conceivable nook with the space for a hot plate, Kishi distinguishes herself by excelling at customer service—a value that nets real rewards and that she learned from her chef-instructors at the CIA, whom she calls brilliant!

duplicated. As a result, world cuisines tend to take on uncharacteristic

It is typical in India that, once the food is delivered, the waiter

flavors familiar to Indians.

disappears. At FoodAholics, Kishi explains, “I have a relationship

“Indians just aren’t accustomed to the world flavors that I was taught at the CIA,” Kishi explains. “Though my customers are typically people who travel and are more adventurous, they still seek out food that is familiar. So, I have made it my mission to educate their palates.” Kishi pulses with positive energy and ambition as she

with all of my customers. And they are loyal. I am slowly growing my business by staying committed to high-quality ingredients and excellent customer service.” Biting into a variation of one of her signature desserts—a chocolate torta layered with berries—it is impossible to find fault with her business strategy. It’s brilliant!

explains how, slowly, she is changing the way her customers respond

You can find Kishi’s blog at http://www.foodaholics.in or follow her at

to new flavors. If a request is made for something she knows won’t

www.facebook.com/foodaholics and www.twitter.com/kishiarora.

work, she will make it but with a few alterations and alongside a more sophisticated creation she knows works. Her customers learn by tasting the difference.

Jenifer McEnery is a former CIA advancement officer and is now in Morocco with the Peace Corps.

Chef/owner of FoodAholics, Kishi is a health-conscious vegetarian and a female entrepreneur in a male-dominated profession and culture. The challenge of running a business out of her home, much less the daunting task of changing the way the Indian people respond to flavors, does not seem to faze her. And why would it? Kishi is a local hit. Her phone is constantly vibrating with messages from magazine publishers and television hosts requesting interviews. She maintains a food blog, writes articles for magazines, and consults, all while running her business. In fact, Kishi invited me over to watch a cooking demonstration and interview with Zee Business Television for a Valentine’s Day episode. Kishi’s mother was to be there and I got to taste her home cooking.

The next day over a delicious thali—a selection of small dishes—Kishi explains how food in India is changing. The traditionally organic, unprocessed staples are being replaced by packaged alternatives as the disposable income of the country’s middle class grows as a result

mise en place no.56, June 2011

kishi and her delectable cakes

19

Better Ads Net Better Candidates

By Ron Hayes ’02 The CIA’s Career Services Office receives over 400 job postings each month.

A surprisingly large number of them read something like this: “[Insert type] establishment seeks [insert position].

Send résumé to job@ email.com.”

I have to wonder what type of candidate these establishments are expecting to recruit? Clearly, the employers are not positioning themselves to receive résumés from the very best candidates.

Employers, if you choose to place an ad, remember one thing—you are selling both the position and your establishment as something desirable.

20

Your advertisement must speak to the quality of candidate that you are seeking.

A good ad may mean the difference between mediocre and excellent candidates.

Let’s look at the example above more closely. Think about what that ad is saying to the candidate.

By omitting all descriptive information, it might be conveying the message that “Our operation is so bad, if we told you our name you would not apply.” Or a candidate might infer the message to be, “We have not yet told our commis that he is going to be replaced and we don’t want him to know we are looking for the replacement.”

Perhaps a candidate

will read it as saying, “We need help but don’t want to put in the effort of actually speaking with potential candidates.”

Candidates are smart.

Good candidates will want to research your web and social networking sites, and ask friends their take on your establishment so they can evaluate you. Top-flight candidates will want to prepare themselves for an interview by being armed with information. If you put out an ad with no information, you are inviting candidates who may just want a job and not a career.

Here are some simple ways to ensure that your ad attracts quality candidates: Give the name of the establishment.

Would you honestly ever consider a candidate that gave you a résumé without a name on it? Ever? Your name is your brand, your moneymaker, so be proud of it!

State the minimum qualifications and give a brief description of the job. Listing qualifications forces you, the employer, to know what you are looking for, and allows you to quickly narrow down the pool of applicants.

Describing the position lets the candidates know what you expect. These descriptions are brief and they speak directly to the candidates you are looking for.

Go where the right candidates are.

Consider the more specialized sites for your ad placement.

The CIA’s eRecruiting system—accessible only to students and grads—is one such place, along with a number of industry-specific sites like Hcareers. com, chefdb.com, and hotelcareer.com, that might garner betterqualified candidates.

Ron Hayes is a CIA career development officer.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Book Shelf

The A–Z Encyclopedia of Food Controversies and the Law

The Art of Charcuterie

By Elizabeth M. Williams and Stephanie Jane Carter ’06

By John Kowalski ’77

As food increasingly impacts

and The Culinary

our health and wallets, we

Institute of America

need to understand the enormous effect of law—both

This thoughtfully

U.S. and international—on

organized book offers a

the safety and availability

comprehensive look at a rediscovered culinary

of the food we eat. The

art form. Combining a

A–Z Encyclopedia of Food Controversies and the Law was

remarkable depth and breadth of knowledge and experience with an accessible approach, the book covers techniques and processes for curing, brining,

compiled by an attorney and a food expert, giving readers accessible information about complex topics. The most comprehensive work covering food and the law, the encyclopedia surveys such law-related topics as organics, health and wellness, and

and smoking, as well as for creating terrines, sausages, and pâtés.

fair trade. It tackles the controversies over labeling practices and

In addition, you’ll learn important information about essential

consumer protection in general. And it looks at the relationship of food

equipment, sourcing ingredients, and, of course, sanitation. This

to class, exposing how poor urban areas possess few sources of fresh

beautifully illustrated book features full-color photography and

food so that residents are forced to rely on convenience stores and fast

technical drawings that display both finished products and the specific

food for nutrition. As background, the set also presents a basic history

techniques used to produce them. The Art of Charcuterie is the ultimate

of food-related law to show us how we got where we are today.

companion for professionals who want to master both traditional and contemporary techniques.

Healthy Cooking at Home

Good Food for Good Times2

By The Culinary Institute of America

By Jamie Gwen ’94

Healthy Cooking at

with Lana Sills

Home brings vibrant,

This new book by Jamie Gwen

modern, flavorful

is an essential reference for

cooking techniques

all the special occasions in

to the health-

your life, making each of

minded home

them a memorable culinary

cook. Familiar

experience. Whether you

favorites like

are hosting a Mexican fiesta, a graduation, a big playoff game, or a grand family gathering for a Thanksgiving feast, Good Food for Good Times2 is just right for you. Complete with

chicken burritos are remade the healthy way, and exotic dishes like pumpkin, zucchini, and chickpea tagine show how exciting to the palate healthful food can be. With step-by-step techniques from the experts at the CIA, plus detailed information on nutrition and ingredients, this is

more than 150 recipes, dozens of cocktails, and 30 stunning color

the essential guide to cooking tasty, healthy food at home. More than

photographs, the book offers “Chef’s Tips” and “Wine Pairing Tips”

235 recipes with 80 full-color photos grace the pages of this enticing

that will help you take your celebrations to a whole new level.

book. It’s a great gift for the foodie in your life who wants to bring real flavor to healthy cooking.

mise en place no.56, June 2011

21

Customer Confidence and Your Menu

Two Keys to Restaurant Success

By John Canner The more we think that things change in this business, the more

In short, the RCCI is a measure of our customers having full

one thing is for certain—the consumer is still king.

trust in our restaurant and enjoying no-surprises dining. A key

Take the changes in the economy, for example. With high unemployment and record foreclosures, our economic system has certainly experienced flu-like symptoms, though slow signs

The Importance of the Menu

of recovery are beginning to be seen in parts of the country. So

Menus are sales tools that must be planned carefully, as they

how have these changes affected the restaurant industry and the

impact your entire operation. The chef and/or owner needs to

behavior of our all-important customers?

ask if the cooks of the kitchen brigade can produce the meals on

We know that 50% of American adults are eating out in restaurants at least as often as they did a year ago. Some have taken the less-expensive route, with the family restaurant outing being lunch or breakfast instead of dinner. Yes, people are still eating out, but they are far more particular and are looking for restaurants in which they have a level of trust.

The “Restaurant Customer Confidence Index” Consumers would like to have confidence not only in Congress, banks, and Wall Street, but also in the restaurant they select. Let’s call this phenomenon the “Restaurant Customer Confidence Index (RCCI).”

the menu day in and day out, as predictably as Big Ben chimes each hour. In addition, today’s menu items must have ingredients, preparation methods, or recipes that cannot be easily reproduced at home. Your menu needs to provide some mystique surrounding your restaurant’s uniqueness, an edge that creates a desire to dine with you.

Your menu is an advertisement of coming attractions, one that is read by a captive audience—your customers. Therefore, common sense and courtesy are important when planning a menu, from its cover to the menu pages themselves. Often an extension of the restaurant décor, the cover should be durable and hold up through repeated use. This is especially true if your restaurant prints its menu pages in-house on a daily basis. The front cover can be used for branding with your restaurant name, logo, and other

Our patrons want to know that every time they visit our

visuals. The back cover, which is many times overlooked, is also

establishment, they will:

vital menu real estate. It can be used nicely for listing individual

• be treated as a valued guest in a clean and enjoyable environment;

appetizers, appetizers for sharing, cocktails and specialty drinks, and even upcoming events and special dinners. These uses of the back cover also free up space on the inside pages for selling more

• read a truthful, easy-to-understand menu;

menu items.

• enjoy safe, tasty, consistently presented food that matches or

In addition to or in place of regular menus, some restaurants have

exceeds the menu’s description; and • receive good, seamless, predictable service and select from menu items that are fairly priced and a good value for their time and money.

22

component in building that confidence and loyalty is your menu.

one-time-use menus that are available as a souvenir or, far more important, for take-out business. Take-out is an industry growth area, as many discerning customers choose to eat restaurant food at home—which has the bonus of extending the reach of your welldesigned menu.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

The Promise—and Delivering On It

So what is good menu copy? It is truthful wording used to paint a

Dining should be pleasurable and fun. But many times “menu copy”—

your customers to buy what you are offering. As they read your menu,

the wording used to describe the menu items—is confusing, vague, misleading, or condescending. It is so important that your menu be carefully written and informative. Your servers are not there to describe or translate every word on the menu; their job is to read or prospect the guest and help make each dining experience a positive and memorable one. Yes, I know there are restaurants where the frontof-the-house service staff is trained, given more training, and tested about the menu on a regular basis, and, if the servers cannot pass the

clear, positive mental image in order to inform, influence, and entice your customers will know what the main ingredients are and how the dish will be cooked or prepared. They will also know what it will look and taste like, and maybe whether it is a premium dish or if there is a special or exclusive restaurant ingredient being used. Effective menu copy will have customers saying, “That sounds good!”

Then when your back-of-the-house team delivers on that promise, your customers’ trust in your restaurant (remember the RCCI?) will soar.

written or verbal tests, they are taken off the floor. And I salute those

And so will your business.

venerable, first-rate establishments that do it each and every day. Their

John Canner is an associate professor in business management at the CIA and a

menus are designed to generate more interaction with the servers.

In these few cases, it is less crucial that the menu is fully visualized

certified hospitality educator.

through the printed words.

mise en place no.56, June 2011

chef thomas kief ‘78 reviewing A menu with a student

23

KUDOS ALUMNI

FACULTY Expertise Acknowledged Raimundo Gaby ’97, assistant professor in business management, recently earned his master of arts degree in organization and leadership–adult learning and leadership from Columbia University’s Teachers College. Assistant Professors in Baking and Pastry Arts Lee Ann Adams and Hans Welker have both earned Certified Master Baker status.

Associate Professor in Baking and Pastry Arts Francisco Migoya was named one of the top 10 pastry chefs in America by Dessert Professional magazine.

Assistant Professor in Culinary Arts Michael Skibitcky earned the ProChef® Level III Certification. As we all know, that’s no small task!

Our Ambassador to Portugal Professor in Wine Studies Michael Weiss was the only American to bryan with astros owner drayton mclane

Grad Takes the Plate Bryan Caswell ’99 likens his new gig at Minute Maid Park to being “called up from the minors.” Known in the industry as the supremely talented chef/owner of REEF restaurant and Little Bigs, both in Houston, as well as a champion of seafood sustainability, Bryan has

present a wine seminar and tasting at the Wines of Portugal International Conference on Touriga Nacional grapes held in Oporto, Portugal.

While there, he also promoted our wine books and the CIA’s programs including the accelerated wine and beverages program at Greystone.

STUDENTS

entered into a partnership with the Houston Astros and Aramark

CIA Students Win NY State ACF Competition

for the 2011 season. He’ll be helping to expand the variety and

The CIA’s team won the American Culinary Federation (ACF)

experience of food choices at the stadium. A Little Bigs burger joint

Northeast Regional Student Championship in Columbus, OH on March

concession stand will be featured on the main concourse and Bryan

23, 2011. They created a two-phase entry. Part one was based on the

will work closely with Aramark Executive Chef Jason Kohler to

fundamental skills of the hot kitchen as well as pastry. Part two was

develop catering menus for the suites and club levels throughout the

a four-course menu, prepared within a time frame, which was judged

ballpark. For a die-hard Astros fan like Bryan, this is a dream come

according to taste, kitchen methodology, presentation, and a classical

true. He can’t wait to play for the home team. Batter up!

French component.

The winning team included: Leland Cummings ’11 Nick Dugan ’05, Manager-in-Training Tommy Messina ’10, Manager-in-Training Sean Pera ’09, Manager-in-Training Prateek Sadhu ’11 The team now moves on to compete in the national finals in Dallas, TX in July. The CIA team is sponsored by Philip Jones and Jones Dairy Farm, and is coached by CIA faculty chefs David Bruno ’88, John Reilly ’88, and

the winning team

24

Stéphane Weber.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

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Be Cool to Your School

By Karen Masri Craddock ’95

It doesn’t matter if you are like me and no longer work in the

opportunity to get highly appreciated assets out of your estate. And,

industry, or if you are still enjoying the challenges of a career

this kind of giving allows you the flexibility of revoking the designation

in foodservice—you have to agree that in many ways our CIA

in the event your plans change.

experience molded us into the people we are today. There may have been times along the way when you felt the desire to give something back to the college, but you may not have known exactly how to go about it. An easy and frequently overlooked

Think about making the CIA one of the beneficiaries of your retirement or life insurance plans the next time you feel the desire to support your alma mater.

way to donate to the college is to name The Culinary Institute

Karen Masri Craddock is a member of the CIA’s Alumni Council and a

of America as a beneficiary of one of your IRA or retirement

volunteer planned giving consultant to the college. She has been a financial

plans.

advisor since 1998. Karen is a second vice president and Morgan Stanley Smith

Many people have an IRA, a 401(k), or a 403(b) retirement plan. Some also have an annuity or life insurance policy that they intend to leave to a specific party upon their demise.

Simply put, these types of assets can be left in whole or in part to family, friends, or even the CIA. Most assets pass to your intended beneficiaries by the terms of

Barney financial planning specialist who designs and implements dynamic comprehensive financial plans.

Tax laws are complex and subject to change. Morgan Stanley Smith Barney LLC, its affiliates and Morgan Stanley Smith Barney Financial Advisors do not provide tax or legal advice. This material was not intended or written to be used for the purpose of avoiding tax penalties that may be imposed on the taxpayer. Individuals are urged to consult their personal tax or legal advisors to understand the tax and related consequences of any actions or investments described herein.

your will. Other assets, such as retirement plans, life insurance, and insurance annuities, however, are not controlled by the terms of your will. These assets instead require separate beneficiary forms.

Naming, adding, or changing beneficiaries is really easy. All you need to do is obtain a “Beneficiary Change or Update Form” from the plan administrator. The phone number is typically on your quarterly statement. Indicate your changes

The World’s Premier Culinary College

The World’s Premier Culinary College

The World’s Premier Culinary College

on the form, save a copy for yourself, and send it back as per the administrator’s instructions. Then, be sure to check with the plan administrator to ensure that your intended update is made. If the account is your work-based retirement plan, your company’s human resources contact could probably facilitate the process for you. It’s very simple, and the beauty of it is that you can always change the designation if you ever change your mind. It’s in your control.

There are some obvious benefits to including the CIA as a beneficiary besides the knowledge that you are tangibly showing your support for the college. There are also the possible tax deductions for you and your estate, and the

26

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

A Diamond in the Rough

By Felicia Zammit

What is older than the Parthenon, as ancient as Mayan ruins, found

Once the truffles are purchased from the harvesters, Sabatino uses

in many countries across Europe, and called the “Food of the Gods”

strict hygiene principles and careful analysis of the composition of their

or the “Diamond of the Kitchen?” It’s the truffle, which has been

ingredients throughout all processing stages. From the introduction of

collected and consumed for more than 3,600 years, mesmerizing and

top-quality materials to the stocking of the finished products—which

captivating all who taste it.

today include not only truffles, but oils, butters, and sauces, as well as

One person captivated by these natural gems was young Sabatino Balestra of Umbria, Italy. He and his wife Giuseppa recognized the potential of a consumer market for truffles and started a small storefront in Montecastrilli, Umbria. Together, they catered to local

salts and vinegars—the company is dedicated to the highest quality. In fact, in 2004, Sabatino Tartufi received the first ISO 9001 certification for its quality system, with a CERMET and TUV recognition from the Italian government.

families by distributing gourmet products and the beloved truffle.

The CIA’s partnership with Sabatino Tartufi has lasted more than 10

One hundred years and three generations later, Sabatino Tartufi—still

years. “In 1999, when we opened operations in the U.S., we began

family-owned and -operated—has become the premier truffle authority

working with the CIA,” explained Jeanseaume. “Since 2005, we have

in the business and the leading brand of truffle products used in the

been the direct distributor of Sabatino Truffles to the CIA. We receive

United States.

orders from both the Greystone and Hyde Park campuses so there is

The journey from field to plate is quite extraordinary. Sabatino

no miscommunication and so we can share available new products and

truffles are harvested by people for

top-quality truffles directly with the college.”

whom it is a hobby or second job.

They hunt for truffles at the end of

And it is quality that brought both

the day or on weekends. Vincent

the CIA and Sabatino together.

Jeanseaume, vice president of

“Being that the CIA is renowned

Sabatino Truffles, North America

as one of the best culinary schools

says, “Hunters will go out with

in the world, we felt that it was

their favorite hunting dogs and

our duty to have our product used

look for the highly prized truffle.

by the people who were about to

The dogs run around sniffing for

become the most influential chefs,”

the intense aroma of truffle and

says Jeanseaume. “We wanted to

start digging when they catch the

be sure that we were part of that

distinctive scent.” Once truffles

culinary education.” Jim DeJoy,

have been harvested, Sabatino

manager of gift-in-kind at the

sends employees, who act as

CIA, agrees. “Sabatino has been

brokers, to the fields to purchase

a great friend to the CIA. Having

them directly from the harvesters.

their products in the hands of our

Those fields span vast miles over

students enhances the quality of

many countries. “Due to the

their education while allowing

very large quantity of product

the CIA to remain the gold

we purchase, we do buy beyond

standard in culinary education. It’s

our region of Umbria,” explains

wonderful to have such a long-

Jeanseaume. “Actually, the vast

lasting relationship with Sabatino.”

majority of black winter truffles

Felicia Zammit is a CIA advancement

come from France, and our white

officer.

truffles come from such Italian regions as Piedmont, Tuscany, Marche, Lazio, and Abruzzo.”

mise en place no.56, June 2011

the early morning hunt for truffles begins

27

Why Give?

Dana Slatkin ’92 Member, CIA Society of Fellows

What Motivates You to Give?

What motivates me is gratitude. I was lucky to have had an excellent education, which has afforded me the ability to make a career—consulting and teaching cooking—out of my passion. I wake up every morning excited to cook something new. The instructors at the CIA gave me the discipline and tools to tackle any challenge, in and out of the kitchen. I’m forever indebted to them for an invaluable education.

What Makes Giving Meaningful?

As a parent of three, I am constantly writing checks to pay for school, music lessons, and all the little expenses of their lives. Sometimes it feels like it’s unrelenting. But then one day, you wake up and your kid is playing guitar on stage or winning a tennis match, and you forget about all the sacrifices you made to get there. For me, giving back to the institutions that were formative in my life is very similar. If you focus on the long term, it is so gratifying to see how your small contributions can multiply to make a huge impact on lives.

How Do You Give?

I give several cooking classes a month, and I donate a good portion of the proceeds to a different charity each time. Recent causes include Careers Through Culinary Education, Alex’s Lemonade Stand, Share Our Strength, and the Remember Alex Brown Fund.

I always make sure to mention the charity to my students in order to spread the word. The act of giving is contagious! I enjoy doing my little part to pay it forward. I specifically give to the CIA, by joining the Society of Fellows each year. I like keeping in close contact with the CIA, and getting online updates and attending some of the alumni events are good ways to stay in touch and maintain our passion for good food.

28

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Giving’s Impact Sang Hyun Park ’11 Recipient: Katharine Angell Academic Achievement Award The Management Award The Young Professional’s Medal of Merit of the Académie Brillat-Savarin Ferdinand Metz International Student Endowed Scholarship

What inspired you to come all the way from Korea to attend the CIA? While I was studying urban engineering in Korea, I took a break to come to the U.S. to study English as a second language. I then decided to attend the University of California, San Diego to complete my engineering degree. During that time, I got a parttime job at a Korean market. A Japanese business owner, who was a regular customer, offered me a position as a waiter in his restaurant. He not only sponsored my green card, he taught me how to make sushi right at the sushi bar! This was special because it usually takes many years before you are allowed to work at the sushi bar in front of guests. It was there that I not only enhanced my skills making sushi, but also entertained and received feedback from customers. For the next three years, I worked in other Japanese restaurants in California, honing my skills in both

life. Lastly, my externship at the Ritz-Carlton in Naples, FL was very rewarding. While there, I worked as a sushi chef for all banquet functions and helped open their new sushi bar concept.

confidence in my skills as a sushi chef than as an urban engineer!

Outside of the kitchen, what are some of your interests or hobbies?

After I learned that The Culinary Institute of America was the

As a young child, I was on soccer teams. Even now, I still enjoy

best culinary school in the country, I applied, and here I am today,

soccer and basketball as well. I work out and exercise up to two

ready to graduate.

hours every day. It’s an investment in myself because I know that

culinary and management positions. I learned that I had more

What has been the best part of being at the CIA?

the stronger and healthier I am, the more focused I can be at work.

What are your future goals?

One of the best parts of being at the CIA was receiving a great

While on externship, I realized that I wanted to work in a

education from the faculty. I have great respect for all of my

corporate management position upon graduation. I have accepted

professors and am humbled by the education they have given me.

a job at Shaw’s Crab House in Schaumburg, IL as kitchen manager

Because of them, I have excelled. Another great thing has been

with responsibility for the sushi bar. I hope to improve my

the wines program. We have no wine region in Korea, and I had

culinary and management abilities so I can advance within the

no knowledge of wine prior to coming here. Now, after taking the

Lettuce Entertain You restaurant group.

Wine Studies class, I feel as though I’ve studied wine my whole

mise en place no.56, June 2011

29

’61

Peter J. Washburne caters events as a hobby and enjoys

creating revolving dessert turntables that his clients can use.

’68

Robert W. Carter is chef/

’71

George Najam is the kitchen

owner of Bobby-I’s restaurant

in Helena, NY.

manager for the Elegant Priest

Retirement Home in Stamford, CT. Douglas J. Polmann is director of food & beverage for The Palms of Mt. Pleasant independent and assisted living facility in Mt. Pleasant, SC.

’74

Dan Callahan didn’t have any CIA gear handy to wear

in his picture, but he did have his original edition of ProChef. He took it out to Yosemite near Half Dome and shot this picture. Recovering from a series of

Dan Callahan ‘74 with his copy of prochef in yosemite national park

health and family setbacks, Dan is enjoying the comfort and beauty of Yosemite.

Alumni Council Corner Top “5” Things You Always Wanted to Know About Your Alumni Council but Were Afraid to Ask 1. What is the Alumni Council?

4. Do you have to be a Council member to support

The council is an appointed group of individuals

the CIA?

dedicated to strengthening alumni awareness, and

NO! Just call 845-451-1401 and ask to help!

engaging graduates around the country to understand

Here are some ideas of how to help: apply to become

and promote the benefits of being a CIA graduate.

a member of the Society of Fellows, set up a campus

2. What does the Alumni Council do for the college?

The council acts as a liaison between the college and alumni working in the field. It alerts alumni to new initiatives, projects, events, and benefits to them

sponsor an alumni reception.

5. What are the benefits of staying engaged with the CIA?

through career services, social networking, publications,

• Network of 40,000+ alumni

financial support, homecomings, alumni receptions,

• Career services for life, including Career Fair

campus visits, and special projects.

recruitment

3. How do you apply to become a member the Alumni Council?

Call the Alumni Relations Office to receive an application for consideration.

Dale Miller ’79, Chair, Alumni Council

30

visit, become an externship site for our students, and/or

• Quarterly mise en place magazine to keep you connected • Use of the largest privately held culinary library in the U.S. • 10% off Continuing Education classes

Lisa Brefere ’78, Vice Chair, Alumni Council

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

don mason ‘76

lisa (holbrook) callison ‘81

Stephen Schweitzer was recently

Higher Education in Philadelphia, PA. He

featured as a success story to stimulate

ren wants to say hi to all his classmates!

diagnosed with muscular dystrophy and

has a new granddaughter, Kaylee Ann.

enrollment in the countrywide “Healthy

David F. Browne is the chef de cuisine

has retired from working after 40 years in

Steps” program. Anthony’s work teaching

for Retirement Unlimited Inc. in Virginia

the foodservice industry. As an advocate

low-income families about healthy cook-

Beach, VA.

for the Muscular Dystrophy Association, he and his wife had generated $20,000 in donations for “Jerry’s Kids”.

’76

’78

William Aperance is general manager for the Albany

Country Club in Voorheesville, NY. John P. Bencivengo has been executive chef of the U.S.S. Chowder Pot III Restaurant

Don Mason is correctional

in Branford, CT for the last 32 years. The

supervising cook at San

New Haven Advocate named the restaurant

Quentin prison, where he oversees in-

“Best Seafood Restaurant” for the last 20

mate cooks and the serving of more than

years in a row. John is currently writing a

4,100 inmates each day. The prison, built

cookbook of recipes collected from Ox-

in 1852, is the oldest in California.

ford, CT Special Olympics families and athletes. Anthony Sanfratello is chief

’77

Merriann Bell is owner/ grower at RattleSnake Plants,

an organic nursery specializing in heirloom varieties in Lyle, WA. Jack Freedman is food safety director for Aramark

engineer for Sodexo at Kindred Hospital

ing habits inspired him to start a website, www.enhancedeatinghabits.com. In 2010, he took part in the White House kickoff of Chefs Move to Schools. Alan W. Simpkins is sous chef for The Balsams

’80

Andrew L. Pappas is director of operations for Famiglia-

Debartolo in White Plains, NY.

Grand Resort Hotel in Dixville Notch, NH. He married in August 2010. While in New Hampshire, Alan is learning the fine art of avoiding moose.

’81

Lisa (Holbrook) Callison is executive chef of culinary

services at The Food Bank of the Rockies in Colorado. Here she is (above) during

’79

Warren L. Bibbins is executive chef for the Buck’s T-4

Chicago North. He was, the “Biggest

Lodge in Gallatin Gateway, MT, which

Loser” winner in the hospital’s weight

is known for its high-quality wild game

loss contest and has maintained his new

dishes. He finally met the girl of his

weight for nearly two years. He was even

dreams and married in June 2010. War-

her Adopt-a-Ship trip to Tromsø, Norway.

She has taught culinary arts to Navy personnel aboard ships all over the world.

If you look closely, you can see her CIA Alumni pin!

Cross Country Promise One of the many dreams that Tim Leeper ’77 shared with his wife Patty was to bicycle across the country. They’d planned to begin their trek when their daughter Ariel started college. But even the best-laid plans can go awry and when Patty passed away from breast cancer nine years ago, dreams and trips gave way to the rigors of solo parenting. With his daughter now in college, Tim took a break from his job at the Big Store in Mackinac Island, MI and began a Bike 4 Breast Cancer ride across country. Dipping the rear wheel of his bicycle into the Pacific at Spanish Landing Park in San Diego, he began a journey filled with ups and downs. There was every kind of weather imaginable, 24 flat tires, packs of dogs, poachers, speeding traffic, and the kindness of strangers. In one poor New Mexico town, a room at the closed hotel had to be re-opened for him. With no restaurants in town, the hotel owner brought over food for Tim to eat that she had prepared herself.

When his journey of 3,447 miles was complete, and he had dipped the front tire of his bike into the Atlantic in St. Augustine, FL, Tim had raised more tim leeper ‘77 dipping his front wheel into the atlantic ocean at the end of his journey

mise en place no.56, June 2011

than $9,000 for breast cancer awareness. He had finally taken the trip he and Patty had dreamed about so many years ago.

31

Kevin ran the test kitchen for author Charlotte Jenkins’s acclaimed cookbook, Gullah Cuisine. Raymond D. Sarro is chef manager for Aramark Business Dining in Wilmington, DE.

’92

Before retiring, Nancy Daigle was clinical supervi-

sor of nutrition at Fresenius Medical Care in California. But as you can see (on p. 34), she hasn’t lost her touch. She is making red velvet mini-cupcakes with her three grandchildren, all of whom were born in 2008!

’93

Reverend Barry Karasiewicz is a preacher in

the Poconos of Pennsylvania. Timothy Pezanowski is executive chef at Farmers

Patty Groth ‘86 and Bob Sampson ‘86

Fare store and restaurant in Rockport, ME.

’84

Joe Kaluzynski has lived

Children’s Home. He is the father of

services for Kirkland Village retirement

in Sydney for 23 years and

two children who attend the The Family

community in Bethlehem PA. He is work-

does private catering. Here he is (below)

Learning Center, where Chris teaches

ing on getting his Certified Dietary Man-

beside Sydney Harbor surrounded by the

western cooking classes that include knife

ager certification. David Wisenfelder

tall ships on Australia Day 2009.

skills, basic cooking techniques, and the

is an electrician and HVAC mechanic in

Mother sauces! Patrick J. Kearney III

South Amboy, NJ.

’85

Hugh Lowenstein is a culinary vocational instructor

for the State of Connecticut Department of Corrections.

is chef-instructor and manager of the evening and weekend program at the Culinary Institute of Virginia in Norfolk, VA. He earned the 2010 Innovator of the Year award from the Culinary Institute of Virginia. Robert Ritchie is manager

’86

Craig Armstrong has been

for culinary research development for

living and working in Europe

Culinary Sales Support Inc. in Chicago,

Robert and Jennifer (Belfi) Shaffer are chef/owners of

Deano’s Italian Restaurant in Dublin, GA. In November 2010, USA Today named the restaurant Georgia’s #1 Pizza Place. Denise Woleben is director–dry products

’88

Peter A. Bruenen is chef de cuisine for the Walt Disney

division of Sugar Foods Corporation in Sun Valley, CA.

World’s Polynesian Resort in Lake Buena Vista, FL.

’91

’95

Kevin Mitchell is a chef-

for the past 20 years. He married in Oc-

IL. He is also a chef-mentor and board of

tober 2009 and is looking forward to his

trustees member for the Illinois Restau-

25th CIA reunion. Patty Groth and Bob

rant Association Educational Foundation,

SC. He is also executive director of the

Sampson have been traveling together

which helps fund culinary education for

Black Culinarian Alliance of Charleston

on and off since meeting at the CIA. On

more than 35 students annually. Gary

and is working toward his ACF certifica-

the full moon of February 18, 2011 they

S. Toscano is assistant director of dining

tion. He is a national ProStart® judge.

started their ascent of Mt. Kilimanjaro.

’94

instructor at the Culinary Insti-

tute of Charleston, in North Charleston,

Paul T. Finocchi is executive chef at Twig’s Café at St.

Joseph Hospital North in Lutz, FL. The café’s regular customers come by for a meal even when they don’t have the excuse of coming to visit someone in the hospital. Steven A. Mannino is executive chef/partner for the Neighborhood Restaurant Group in Leesburg, VA. The group just opened its second Rustico Restaurant in Arlington, VA.

They scaled 19,400 feet and met the challenge with grace. They made the summit (above) in their warm CIA wool hats.

’87

’96

Emanuel Karropoulos is executive chef for Bistro 44

in Northport, NY. Bruce M. Levin was

Christopher Hoagland

elected to the board of directors of the

is reading his mise en place

Amtrak Service Workers Council-Lodge

magazine in front of the mysteriously

25 of the Transportation & Communica-

beautiful White Temple in Chiang Rai,

tions Workers Union-Los Angeles. He is a

Thailand, where he has lived for the

chef for the National Passenger Railroad

past 15 years (p. 33, top). He went there

Company (Amtrak).

originally to help the kitchen staff of an orphanage. When The Baan Farm School and Children’s Home needed a “native” English-speaking teacher, he began his teaching career. Since 2004, he and his wife Esther have been supervisors of the

32

Joe Kaluzynski ‘84

’97

Joseph Caulfield sports his CIA alumni whites (p. 33) as

he plates a dish at the Lighthouse Bistro

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

’05

Guy Anderson is a full-time culinary instructor at Le

Cordon Bleu Atlanta teaching Foundations, International Cuisine, Sanitation, and Cost Control courses. Neil Blackwood, along with Daniel Brunina ’08 and Daniel Stevens ’10, opened the doors of Mokomandy in Sterling, VA—a contemporary concept restaurant serving modern Korean and Cajun cuisines. They feature Cajun charcuterie made in-house

by Brunina, cocktails handcrafted by Blackwood, and a seasonal menu created

by Stevens. Thomas R. Mongiello is tournant for the Hilton New York Towers in New York City. Thomas married in 2010 and welcomed his new son Joseph that same year. Leah Eckenroth Watson is co-owner of Hops & Pie Artisan Pizzeria and Craft Brew Tap Room in

christopher hoagland ‘87

in Kilauea, HI, where he is executive chef. He says Hawaii truly is paradise!

Wesley Choplin is chef/owner of Cho-

Denver, CO.

’99

Brian J. Good is co-owner of Tiffany’s Baking Co. in

Asheville, NC. Tiffany’s was showcased

’02

Adam J. Bruno is beverage director for the Via

Matta Restaurant in Boston, MA. Dean

plin’s Restaurant in Cornelius, NC. Wear-

on TLC network’s Fabulous Cakes in

Couchoy is executive chef in charge

ing his CIA t-shirt in Quatre de Bouquet

February 2011.

of on- and off-campus catering for the

Haiti, Paul Sofka (below, left) ran into

University of Colorado in Boulder, CO.

some U.N. soldiers from Argentina while

Jessie (Knapp) Griswold was married

en route to buy groceries for the relief kitchen he was manning in Cahmbrun, Haiti. He had to break out his French to try and communicate with the ladies working in the kitchen with him. They

’00

Michelle Karr is pastry chef at Alan Wong’s Restaurant in

Honolulu, HI. Rebecca Betty Peizer is a chef-instructor for The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone.

spoke Haitian Creole (Kreyòl) French.

’98

Jennifer Holwill is director of research and development

for Cinnabon®, a division of Focus Brands

in Doraville, GA.

’01

Ciro John Cucciniello is assistant executive chef for the

Red Rock Country Club in Las Vegas, NV. He is the proud father of a one-yearold son, John. Adam Sobel is executive chef at Bourbon Steak in Washington,

in April 2009. Matthew Sytsema is chef at Griggstown Quail Farm & Market in Princeton, NJ.

’04

Meredith Ciaburri is celebrating six years as the

owner of The Artisan Kitchen in Rochester, MA, where her focus is on local agriculture. She is proud to say that she has encouraged one of her staff members to enroll at the CIA.

DC.

’06

Mark Chin Tze Leong is general manager for Dressed

Salads Hong Kong Limited in Hong Kong. Michael Sawuk, Jr. is chef at Griggstown Quail Farm & Market in Princeton, NJ.

’07

Nicholas Licata is executive chef for Jack’s Luxury Oyster

Bar in New York City. He was featured in the March 2011 edition of Wine Enthusiast magazine in an article called “Sake Beyond Sushi.” Tina M. Rusiecki is the portfolio manager for Italian Wine Merchants in New York City.

’08

Catherine Geraghty is fromager and cook for the

Montage Resort and Spa in Laguna Beach, CA. She took and passed both Level I and II of the Master Sommelier exam in 2010. Jonathan Haynes is chef at the Ritz-Carlton in Kapalua in Maui, where several other CIA alums are also working. Jonathan married Rise Namiki ’09 in May 2010. Jorge Hernandez was recently promoted to the position of sous chef at Minibar by José Andrés in Washington, DC. George Lohr is sous chef at the Wayzata Country Club in Wayzata, MN. Steve Luttrell is meater at La Grenouille in New York City. Jarrod Markowski was honored at a VIP dinner at the Marriott in Chongquing, China. He

paul sofka ‘97 (middle)

mise en place no.56, June 2011

joseph caulfield ‘97

wore his most formal professional attire— his CIA alumni whites.

33

ryan thompson ‘09 James McIntoch is banquet chef in the

nancy daigle ‘92

’09

Brittany (Henk) Banuelos

She’s returned to the CIA to get her

Thank you to all our alumni who sent in pic-

was married in June 2010 and

BPS degree. Ryan Sitko is currently

tures of themselves. Because of space constraints

is currently living in Sacramento, CA.

employed in the restaurant of a mission

we were unable to include them all in this

Suzanne Niemann visited the North

Garret Fleming is executive chef for

in San Francisco, CA.

edition of mise en place.

Slope oil fields in Prudhoe Bay while on

the Eatonville Restaurant in Washing-

an Alaskan cruise with her husband. They

ton, DC. Ryan Thompson, a CIA at

spent the night at the Arctic Caribou Inn,

Greystone grad, poses proudly wearing

which is located in one of the oil field

his cordon and his crisp alumni whites in

work camps near the Arctic Ocean. Su-

front of the Golden Gate Bridge (above,

zanne took the opportunity to meet Rob-

left). These days you can find him in San

ert, the camp’s baker. A native Alaskan,

Antonio working for the JDR Group.

Robert shared fascinating stores about

Matt Zikesch is chef at the Blue Ginger

life in his remote arctic village and then

Restaurant in Wellesley, MA.

banquet and special events division of the Indian Trail Club in Franklin Lake, NJ.

Leland S. Guyette, Jr. ’54

Daniel Kelly ’78

Edwin Bollesen ’56

Craig S. Vogel ’88

William H. Simmons ’57

Joseph A Funicella ’89

Timothy B. Carroll ’59

Paul Wildermuth ’90

Charles A. Maiatico ’64

Kevin Patrick Nutt ’91

Dennis R. Paolini ’66

Robert P. Wasco ’92

product line and will be working closely

Michael Hobbs ’69

Dennis M. Royer ’94

with 15 native Chinese and four fellow

Gregg C. Hobel ’70

Douglas Hlad ’95

Robert L. Forrest ’71

Andrew Francis Loftus ’95

from Women Chefs and Restaurateurs to

Chester Joseph Gratkowski, Jr. ’74

David Kadagishvili ’01

intern with Chef Nora Pouillon, owner of

William Flynn ’75

Alexander Schnopp ’02

William Hoppe ’77

Matthew Finkel ’08

bonded with a fellow culinarian by sharing the secrets of his grandmother’s native fry bread with Suzanne. She describes those moments together in the kitchen as the highlight of her trip to Alaska.

Oh, and catch her CIA at Greystone cap (below, right)! Dennis Pitchford poses (below, left) sporting his CIA cap in front of the iconic Buri Al Arab in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. He is corporate chef for Manitowoc and was there for the Gulfood Show in March 2011.

Blake Shepler is owner/executive chef of Roasted Mobile Bistro and Catering.

Visit him at www.roasted-houston.com.

dennis pitchford ‘08

34

In Memoriam

’10

Allison Maxwell is culinary specialist/food development

at Lihar Food and Beverage Management Company in Shanghai, China. She will be developing the company’s first chocolate

Americans in her department. Celeste Regina Scarlett won a scholarship

Certified Organic Restaurant in Washington, DC. Celeste also spent time on one of the farms that supply the restaurant.

suzanne niemann ‘08

Dear Alumni,

Thank you for supporting the Alumni Scholarship Fund. I’m especially honored to receive this gift from my fellow alumni just as I am beginning my BPS studies. You have truly made a difference in my life. I appreciate your kindness and show of support to me and our college. Without your generosity, I might not have been able to pursue my bachelor’s degree.

Thanks again, Anthony Cunningham

Anthony Cunningham ’10, AOS

If you would like to help support other students like Anthony, go to www.ciagiving.org and donate to the Alumni Scholarship Fund.

Kids in The Kitchen

Contest

Some people believe that a love of cooking is passed down through the genes! We’d like you to help us find some real evidence to support that claim. Send us a photo of your very own little chef “working” in the kitchen and you’ll automatically be entered to win a special Kid’s Pizza Making Kit. The kit includes an apron, non-stick pizza pan, pizza sauce, pizza crust mix, rolling pin, wooden spoon, measuring cup, and rhyming recipe and instructions. The winner’s photo, along with those of selected honorable mention entries, will be featured in the September 2011 “School Food” edition of mise en place. Children ages 1–12 years are eligible.

Be sure to take hi-resolution (300 dpi) pics and send them via e-mail to alumni@culinary.edu.

Deadline: June 30, 2011

The Culinary Institute of America Alumni Relations 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538-1499

Homecoming Join us on October 14–15 at the Hyde Park campus for an exciting two days of activities, learning, and just plain fun.

We’ll be enjoying: • A cocktail bash on Anton Plaza • Alumni Business Showcase breakfast

“Good Food + Good Health = Great Chefs” Bob Kabakoff, 5K Run/Walk Chairman

2011

• Seminars and demos • A dine-around lunch • The First Annual Homecoming 5K Run/Walk, and • Campus update by President Ryan

Alumni Relations Admissions Advancement CIA Websites Career Services Conrad N. Hilton Library Professional Development 845-451-1401 1-800-285-4627 845-905-4275 ciachef.edu 845-451-1275 845-451-1270 1-800-888-7850 ciaalumninetwork.com ciagiving.org ciaprochef.com

General Information 845-452-9600