Mise en Place Issue 61 Salt An Essential Element

No. 61, September 2012

ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

SALT An Essential Element

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Salt: An Essential Element

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Sensory Perception of Salt

The history and uses of salt

Mysteries of this fundamental flavor enhancer

10 Applying Sichuan Flavor Principles to Reduce Salt Using “mala� flavor to lower salt

16 A World Diversity Festival A campus-wide celebration

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22 12 Across the Plaza

Tasting Success by Cutting Salt | Following the Presidential Trail | Creating the CIA Bakery Café | Chow Down at the

26 Gifts at Work

Bridging the Gap By Giving Back | Keeping the CIA a “Well-Oiled” Machine | Why Give? | Giving’s Impact

Chowder Cook-off

21 Education for Life

Worlds of Flavor | Innovation through Leadership Book Shelf | Kudos

30 Class Notes

Then & Now | Class Notes | In Memoriam

It seems impossible that something you’ve enjoyed since childhood can go from being a comfort and a delicious presence in your life, to being life-threatening.

But that is what has happened to salt. It was brought to us from the sea in its most basic form, and over the years, we’ve pushed the boundaries of salt’s use until now, it is the “seasoning non grata” of the 21st century.

Salt has so many positive qualities. Before refrigeration, it was used to ensure food safety through its role in brining, pickling, and fermentation. But as we became industrialized and food became mass-produced, manufacturers used

mise en place® No. 61, September 2012 Nancy W. Cocola, Editor Leslie Jennings, Designer

Contributing Writers Mark Ainsworth ’86 David Kamen ’88

it to enhance the flavor of highly processed food. And now, as a nation, we are

Shelly Loveland

discovering we are over-salted. We appear to have a penchant for layering our

Natalie Singer (student)

diet with processed, ready-to-eat food; hidden sources of salt; and an alarming

Felicia Zammit

lack of fresh victuals.

Salt is so common that we don’t even notice it unless it’s riding on the surface of a chip or French fry. The salt added to our processed food barely breaks through our conscious awareness. Most of us have to read a package to understand just how much salt we are ingesting.

A while back, it became clear that my taste buds were enjoying salt much more than my body was, and I had to limit my intake. I eat mostly fresh foods now, but I’m not afraid to add a little salt to finish off a dish. That sparing sprinkle isn’t where the danger lies; it’s in the processed food. I thought I’d never get used to the taste of things without a heavy salting, but frankly, I’ve discovered the sweetness of cauliflower, the earthiness of potatoes, the lightness of salmon, and the snappy tang of tomatoes.

Editorial Board Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 President

Heather Kolakowski ’02

Dr. Victor Gielisse Vice President— Advancement and Business Development

Chet Koulik

Mark Ainsworth ’86

Douglass Miller ’89

Brad Barnes ’87

Anthony Nogales ’88

Sue Cussen

Dr. Chris Loss ’93 Francisco Migoya

Jennifer Stack ’03

Awareness is a good thing for both individuals and industry. So, this issue of mise en place is about awareness and flavor, and how to marry those two elements to create healthy, tasty meals.

Enjoy!

Nancy Cocola, Editor n_cocola@culinary.edu

Mission

Mise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by: Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students.

Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concerning the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodservice industry.

Creating a forum to help alumni network and build community. ©2012 The Culinary Institute of America All rights reserved.

Photography: Shirley Cheng, Ben Fink, Keith Ferris, Michael Gutowski, Kristen Loken, Phil Mansfield, and Pauline Stevens.

Cover inspired by Katsushika Hokusai’s The Great Wave.1829–32.

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Since you were a student at the CIA, we’ve made changes to the curriculum, facilities, and student life offerings. And with a CIA education now available in New York, Texas, California, and Singapore, it’s become necessary to provide even more restaurant operations experience for our students. So, we’ve added some exciting cafés and restaurants to our repertoire. If you get the chance, stop in to one of our new student-run operations and taste the CIA!

The Bakery Café by illy, St. Helena, CA

NAO Restaurant, San Antonio, TX

The CIA Bakery Café, San Antonio, TX

When you first enter the CIA at Greystone,

The newest addition to the pantheon of CIA

Complete with a large picture window

don’t be surprised if you find yourself lured

restaurants and cafés is the stunning and

that gives patrons a peek into the college’s

by the intoxicating smells of baked bread,

inviting NAO restaurant. Led by Executive

teaching kitchens, the CIA Bakery Café is

cookies, and other treats being made in

Chef/Instructor in Culinary Arts Geronimo

a destination for visitors at the revitalized

our new Bakery Café by illy. The menu

Lopez-Monascal, NAO is offering foods that

Pearl Brewery site in San Antonio. The

features breakfast pastries and savory lunch

reflect a culinary tapestry of Latin ingredients,

café offers a variety of light fare that

items prepared by our baking & pastry arts

traditions, and culture. A spectacular showcase

includes soups, salads, and sandwiches, and

students and faculty as part of the college’s

for flavors of the New World, the menu features

features a selection of classic pastries made

degree program. In addition, the café

Latin American dishes rooted in tradition and

with specialty items from Latin America

has a full selection of illy specialty coffee

creatively reinterpreted using new perspectives,

and Mexico. Led by Department Chair of

drinks, Dammann Frères teas, house-

ingredients, and techniques. CIA students

Baking and Pastry Arts Alain Dubernard

made beverages, wines, and microbrews.

will prepare fresh, seasonal plates that pay

and Jake Griffin ’08, a graduate of the

Students operating the café will learn about

homage to the great cuisines of Latin America.

college’s associate and bachelor’s degree

coffee from history to cultivation and from

Derived from the Latin root “neo,” meaning to

programs, the CIA Bakery Café offers San

economics to preparation techniques.

weave or intertwine, as well as the English root

Antonio residents a quick and easy way to

meaning something new, NAO is a celebration

enjoy a light meal at the world’s premier

of tradition as well as innovation.

culinary college.

mise en place no.61, September 2012

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If you’re ever in Italy driving towards Rome from the north, you might well be traveling on the Via Salaria, or “salt highway.” Scholars theorize that the location of this ancient city was governed by its proximity to the salt marshes of Ostia, a town at the mouth of the Tiber River close to Rome. The far-reaching importance of salt to people

SALT An Essential Element

By Mark Ainsworth ’86

throughout the ancient world— and, in turn, economic, social, and political development—cannot be overstated. This simple yet complex compound has been used to extract moisture from perishable high-protein items as well as to preserve and season our food. Of greater importance, then and now, is that salt is a necessary nutrient that regulates the balance of fluid in all living things.

larger in size than normal table salt crystals. During processing, kosher salt is crystallized, giving it a larger flake with flat sides that adhere very well to food. Because of its size, kosher salt absorbs larger amounts of moisture than table salt, making it beneficial in curing and seasoning. Although many brands of kosher salt are pure salt, others have additives, so it’s wise to check the label.

Salts from the Sea In addition to kosher and table salt, sea salt is increasingly being used in professional kitchens. Sought after for its delicate nuances in flavor and texture, sea salt is available in a myriad of colors, flavors, and prices; specialized varieties can sell for well over $100 a pound

The Origins of Salt

and often taste like the environment from which they are harvested.

Salt is a mixture of two minerals, sodium and chloride. Whether

expensive than its counterparts, sea salt should be used with a light

evaporated from shallow ponds and marshes or mined from

hand. It is often wasted when dissolved into a soup or vinaigrette and

underground deposits, it is marine-based. Windmills, an Arab

is most efficiently applied to food as a finishing salt, at the very end.

invention, have been used to pump seawater into shallow, clay-

A final dusting on a salad or a sprinkle over perfectly cooked seafood

bottom ponds throughout the Mediterranean for centuries. The water

adds a subtle flavor and textural contrast that strengthens and refines

is evaporated with the help of the sun and wind, leaving a mineral

the dish. Seasoning in this way uses less salt, which is beneficial to

whose flavor and color is derived from the clay, algae, and volcanic

those on a low-sodium diet.

ash in the environment.

Flavors can be slightly sweet, sour, sulfury, smoky, or briny. More

Some interesting varieties of sea salt include:

Salt in the Kitchen

Fleur de sel de Camargue

Because of its purity and ease of use, kosher salt is used in most

Hand-raked from the southern French waters of Camargue, this salt

professional kitchens. Originally named for its ability to draw out blood and moisture in the koshering process, this salt’s crystals are

has a dry, fine texture that is almost brittle.

Hawaiian alaea sea salt Resembling the light brown alaea clay that is added during harvesting,

is important; others should be aware of the acceptable level of salt intake.

this salt is mellow in flavor and not very harsh. Because of the more

You can reduce sodium in cooking by using fresh, bold, and intense

than 30 minerals found in the clay, the salt is thought to provide many

flavors, or by adding fresh herbs and spices to increase the food’s

health benefits. Traditionally, this salt has been used in ceremonial

appeal. When done correctly, less salt is needed to round off and finish

blessings.

the dish. Vinegars, fruit and vegetable juices, and various sweeteners

Trapani sea salt

also serve to reduce the amount of sodium required. Utilizing and

Originating in Trapani, Sicily, this very pure, white, high-quality salt

creates focused and refined flavors.

is gathered in wheelbarrows, piled high, and covered in roofing tiles until it is perfectly dry. Locally, it is used to cure wheels of sheep’s milk ricotta cheese.

Jurassic sea salt

balancing the five basic tastes of sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami

Curing Salmon Aside from its typical uses in the kitchen and dining room, salt is still used to cure and brine a variety of items, including salmon. To prepare

Marketed as a salt from the time of the dinosaur era when the sea

cold-smoked salmon, pack the fillets in a mixture of 2 parts kosher salt

covered what is now the state of Utah, Jurassic sea salt is invigorating,

to 1 part brown sugar and a handful of spices. Following your local

with an interesting texture and flavor.

health department regulations, cure the fillet under refrigeration for

Japanese Suzushio sea salt

about a day to draw out the moisture and make it safe to eat. After it

Found in the Ishikawa Prefecture (one of the governmental

a skin, or pellicle; smoke sticks best to dry surfaces. Cold smoking is

jurisdictions of Japan), this premium salt has distinctive mineral properties and is damp in texture. It graces the tables of exclusive tempura restaurants, and the salt’s limited production adds to its mystique and value.

is cured, wash off the salt and sugar and leave the fish to dry to form best achieved at a temperature between 40 and 90 degrees F. There are many reasonably priced units on the market specifically designed for producing cold-smoked salmon. Quality characteristics include a good flavor balance of salt, sweet, smoke, and fish. The salmon should

Smoked sea salt

always be sliced thinly and served simply.

Produced throughout the world, smoked sea salt has interesting characteristics that come not only from the salt, but also from alder

Vital to our Past and Present

wood and even old French oak wine barrels used in the smoking

From the days when people stepped out of the garden and began

process.

relying on more than just vegetables to eat, salt has been an integral

Salt and Health The majority of sodium in the typical American diet comes from processed foods. The average American consumes more than twice the United States Department of Agriculture’s recommendation of 2,300 mg (about 1 teaspoon) per day. For those with hypertension (high blood pressure) or kidney ailments, a sodium-restricted diet

and necessary part of daily life. Its ability to inhibit bacterial growth allowed civilizations to focus less on food sustenance and more on advancements and growth in other areas. In today’s modern kitchen, we take salt for granted, but if it were to suddenly vanish, its loss to the culinary world would be immeasurable.

Mark Ainsworth, PC III, CHE is a professor in culinary arts at the CIA.

Sensory Perception of Salt

By David Kamen ’88

The title of this article may be somewhat misleading. We all know that salt tastes, well, salty. But what does salt do for our perception

Hidden Ingredient

of flavor? That question has baffled both chefs and food scientists

To understand hidden sodium

for many years and we still do not fully understand the mechanics

sources, one must

of how salt functions.

understand the

Salt, or saltiness, is one of our primary tastes. We experience it on our tongues and nowhere else. We cannot hear saltiness, nor can we smell it. And while we can see it on a pretzel or French fry, we cannot see it in a soup or sauce. For all that we know, or think we know, about salt, we do not know how salt functions either chemically or physically. And while we do have some understanding, an actual receptor for salt has not yet been identified. Clearly, discovering this elusive receptor would be a significant key to helping us modulate how we use salt and lower the amount of sodium we take in on a daily basis.

other functions of salt that go beyond flavor enhancement.

Salt is a key ingredient used to inhibit bacterial growth, regulate fermentation, strengthen proteins, and attract moisture.

And while we do not often

We know that salt acts as a flavor enhancer, mitigates bitter

think of cheese, bread,

elements, and makes foods taste richer and fuller. As chefs, we

chicken breasts, or pork

often describe salt as a volume knob. Salt turns up the volume on

chops as being significant

flavors that are already there. When driving down the highway,

sources of sodium, they

if the highway noises overpower the radio we can simply turn

contribute significantly to the

the volume up. But if we get to that point on the highway where

amount of salt that we

the local stations start to fade out, turning up the volume will not

ingest every day.

help. Similarly, salt will turn up the volume on flavors that are already well-developed. But if a food does not have well-developed flavor, salt will only make that food salty, and not delicious.

Cheese makers use salt to control the

Flavor development depends on an interaction of ingredients in

texture of their

much the same way that good music depends on the interaction

cheese. More

of all of the instruments in an orchestra. Take the sound of a solo

salt makes a

violin. While nice, it is unadorned and straightforward. But add

chewier cheese

a cello, harpsichord, and perhaps a soft flute to that violin and it

because of how

sounds more, well, violin-y.

salt strengthens the

Everyone knows that salt has been in the news lately, with new recommended daily intake levels that may seem impossible to achieve. The current Food and Drug Administration (FDA) guidelines suggest that the average American should consume no more than 2,300 mg of sodium per day—the equivalent of about one teaspoon of table salt. This represents a more than

protein structure. Salt in cheese works in conjunction with acidity, alkalinity, and moisture content to increase shelf life by reducing the number of unwanted bacteria and controlling the fermentation process. A one-ounce slice of mozzarella cheese contains 177 mg of sodium.

30% reduction in the average of 3,400 mg of sodium that most

Bread makers also take advantage of the same properties. Today’s

Americans consume today. The challenge inherent in this type of

consumers are craving more “artisan” style breads with thicker crusts

reduction is that the most significant sources of sodium are hidden

and deeper flavors. This can only be achieved by including significant

in our diets, and are not the salt that people add at the table or

amounts of salt into the dough to help form strong gluten strands,

when cooking.

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of fermentation that the yeast produces, another critical

Reducing Salt Intake

by Enhancing Salt Sensation

control in the creation of great bread. A typical four-ounce

Sea salts are growing in popularity. Many people are spending

which make the bread brown and crusty on the outside, and chewy on the inside. Salt also controls the amount

French dinner roll has a shocking 609 mg of sodium.

Even the innocent boneless skinless chicken breast is not immune to a hidden sodium attack. In an effort to mitigate the drying effects of cooking chicken to the high doneness temperatures recommended by the FDA (165 degrees F.), many producers are pumping chicken parts with up to a 15% solution of water, salt, and sodium phosphate, among other possible elements. The salt and sodium phosphate bond with protein molecules to trap moisture, even at internal temperatures of 170 degrees F. and higher.

A four-ounce portion of “enhanced” or “moist and tender” chicken breast has 375 mg of sodium.

Given this information, a simple chicken and mozzarella sandwich on a French roll (without any toppings or condiments) contains 1,161 mg of sodium, or nearly half of the recommended daily intake.

Add a bag of potato chips at 160 mg of sodium and a half-sour pickle at another 260 mg, and you are consuming 1,581 mg for one meal.

So, how do we understand how an item like the sodium-rich French roll (609 mg of sodium) doesn’t taste salty, while the bag of potato chips (at a mere 160 mg) does? One theory suggests it is the interaction of the sodium with the other components of the product that hides its saltiness.

Nonetheless, it would appear that topical salt has a greater impact than dissolved salt.

mise en place no.61, September 2012

the equivalent of more than $100 per pound on fancy sea salts to use as topical finishing agents for salads, fried foods, and even caramel and chocolate. It is suggested that because of its random crystal structure, the salt melts on the palate at a different rate, leaving the diner with a longer salt sensation than they would have gotten from either table or kosher salt.

However, sensory evaluation tests conducted at the CIA concluded that once a sea salt is dissolved into a matrix like mashed potatoes, chicken broth, tomato juice, or lima bean purée, diners had a difficult time distinguishing them from simple kosher salt. Furthermore, the thicker and more complex the matrix, the more salt it took before tasters considered the product “salty enough.”

Another school of thought is that much of the topical salt in foods like potato chips or French fries is not dissolved on the tongue, but rather swallowed intact. This would amount to wasted sodium because it does not have the opportunity to impact our flavor perception, but does become absorbed into our bloodstream. Given this, researchers are experimenting with smaller crystal sizes that will dissolve faster on our palates, thus giving more bang for the sodium buck. By creating a salt crystal that is smaller and will dissolve faster, manufacturers can use less salt to create the same flavor perception.

Interestingly enough, although sodium is targeted, it is thought that the chloride gives us the flavor-enhancing quality of salt.

Salt substitutes are often made of potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride. These potassium-based salts have a similar flavor perception but are often associated with a bitter aftertaste. While potassium-based salt is a potentially effective alternative flavor enhancer, its functionality is still being investigated.

Despite what we do know about sodium, there is still a great deal more to learn. One thing that is clear is that sodium reduction is not going to be as simple as finding an alternative flavor enhancer. Because of salt’s functionality as an ingredient, we are going to need a deeper understanding of how salt and food systems interact. Until then, we should carefully monitor our diets and our ingredients for hidden sodium sources and think strategically about how we add salt to our food.

David Kamen, PC III is currently project manager for CIA Consulting.

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Applying Sichuan Flavor Principles to Reduce Salt CIA Professor of Culinary Arts Shirley Cheng is no stranger to the Sichuan peppercorn and its flavor-enhancing properties. In a recent article for mise en place magazine, she wrote about Huajiao: The Secret to Sichuan Cuisine. (See MEP 52, June 2010). Here she revisits the Sichuan peppercorn and the flavor principles of “mala”—which combine the

protein denaturation, increases water-binding capacity, and controls fermentation in many preparations. However, it has long been known that a diet high in salt is positively correlated with hypertension and an increase in the risk of heart disease, stroke, and kidney disease. So, although the recommended daily allowance set by the Department of Agriculture’s Health

Sichuan peppercorn (ma) with

and Human Services is

chili pepper (la)—to see if it

2,300 mg of sodium, recent

can be applied to reduce salt

recommendations have been

in the quick-service restaurant

made to lower the average

favorite, the French fry. Her

daily sodium intake to

preliminary research suggests

1,500 mg.

that the mala flavor profile can be incorporated into

Strategies for Reducing Sodium in Menu Items

a seasoning blend to lower the amount of salt needed to appeal to the everyday diner.

Putting Flavor First to Lower Salt

Major sources of sodium in the U.S. diet come from “processed” and restaurant food, comprising 70–85% of sodium intake for the average

Salt, also known as sodium chloride, is a ubiquitous and versatile seasoning found in kitchens around the world. As health risks associated with dietary sodium becomes increasingly evident, retail and foodservice operations are working to lower salt levels in popular foods without compromising customer satisfaction or overall flavor.

Chef Cheng has taken a flavor-focused culinary strategy to address this issue, and is using the Sichuan mala flavor profile to season the popular quick-service offering. Her objective sensory studies indicate that Sichuan peppercorns and chili peppers can be incorporated into seasoning blends resulting in the use of 33% less salt while not compromising “liking.”

American. In response to health concerns, the food industry has been researching sodiumreduction strategies to provide “healthier” options while maintaining consistency in quality and taste. Some examples of these include: • Reducing salt gradually over time • Using lower-sodium salt options such as potassium chloride and naturally low-sodium sea salts • Reducing portion size • Incorporating produce with inherently lower sodium levels into recipes

Salt’s Role in Flavor and Health

• Incorporating more herbs and spices to enhance flavor

Sodium chloride (NaCl) is an important seasoning used to augment

However, objective sensory testing and consumer evaluation of

the flavor of food. Salt can enhance flavors in meat, suppress

these strategies, by chefs and scientists collectively, are needed to

bitterness in vegetables, and increase consumption and enjoyment

demonstrate efficacy and feasibility of these approaches.

of nutritious food. It also preserves meat and vegetables, facilitates

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Opportunity for “Mala” to Lower Sodium

Seventeen culinary students participated in the blind taste test.

Chinese regional cuisines are increasing in popularity, but are not

variance. The French fries seasoned with mala were equally well-liked

fully understood among American culinary professionals. Mala is a

compared to the traditional salt-only seasoning. However, the perceived

compound flavor profile that distinguishes Sichuan cuisine from those

saltiness was significantly lower for the mala sample compared to the

of other regions in China. This signature flavor of Sichuan cuisine is

traditional salt-only seasoning.

applied to broths, meat, fish, and vegetables. The sensory experience

In addition, general comments provided by the tasters (qualitative

involves two simultaneous chemisthetic effects: numbing or “cooling” due to the sanshool in the huajiao, and “heating” due to the capsaicin in the chili. Mala-seasoned dishes can be described as producing “flavor waves” of alternating burning and numbing sensations that stimulate appetite and enhance enjoyment.

Chef Cheng hypothesized that mala could be incorporated into a seasoning blend for French fries, allowing for a reduction in salt without a negative impact on enjoyment. She chose French fries because they are a popular comfort food in the U.S. and one of the most common items found on restaurant menus. In addition, the National Salt Reduction Initiative established by New York City’s Department of Health and Hygiene has identified French fries as a high-risk food that requires a 30% reduction in sodium from 347 mg to 240 mg, over the next three years.

Significant differences in liking and salty taste intensity were determined using a statistical method referred to as an analysis of

data) during the taste test indicated that the mala spice blend added a welcome layer of complexity that improved the overall eating experience of the French fries. Descriptors of mala-seasoned French fries included “refreshing,” “savory,” “satisfying,” “more depth,” and “lemony tingle.”

To determine if the results can be replicated, these tests will be conducted on a broader population of consumers. However, in a test with a different group of tasters, Chef Cheng obtained similar results when seasoning fried chicken with a mala spice blend. These preliminary results augur well for a larger study that she is planning to conduct with additional funding through the CIA Menu Research and Flavor Discovery Initiative. Chef Cheng will attempt to find the ideal level of mala seasoning and salt to make the greatest impact on flavor and sodium reduction. She will also evaluate her spice formulations at

To test her hypothesis, Chef Cheng worked with Dr. Chris Loss

the college’s fast-casual dining setting for students, the Courtside Café.

’93 to design an objective sensory study evaluating the effects of

This approach is an example of how chefs and scientists can work

her seasoning blend on overall “liking” and “perceived saltiness” of French fries. Sensory ballots were created that used a line scale to convert consumers’ perceptions of liking and taste intensity into a numeric value. This enables statistical analysis to be applied to determine if the observed effects are “significant.” French fries were seasoned with a standard ratio of salt (5.7g of salt/lb of French

together to better understand their consumers and the flavor functionality of ingredients. These results should lend confidence to chefs who have their own flavor-focused culinary strategies for lowering salt in foods.

References for the research in this article can be found online at

fries), and compared to those seasoned with less salt (3.8g of salt +

http://menuscience.ciachef.edu/node/529.

1.9g of mala spice blend/lb of French fries). The mala blend used is

All research was conducted by CIA Professor of Culinary Arts Shirley Cheng.

considered mild by traditional Sichuan cuisine standards.

salt, sichuan peppercorn, and chili

mise en place no.61, September 2012

a less salty but equally satisfying french fry

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Tasting Success

by Cutting Salt

25 Science-Based Strategies and Culinary Insights

By The Department of Nutrition, Harvard School of Public Health & The Culinary Institute of America The Institute of Medicine’s recent report, Strategies to Reduce Sodium Intake in the United States, focuses on bigpicture strategies for reining in America’s salt habit. While the report’s recommendations represent an essential step forward, there are many things that individuals, chefs, and organizations can do right now to reduce sodium.

Consumers can use these tips when they cook at home, shop in the supermarket, or choose a meal at their favorite restaurant. Chefs and product developers can tap these ideas in the professional kitchen. Many of these guidelines offer a “stealth health” approach to sodium reduction—ways that sodium can be reduced with no change or minimal change to consumer food experiences or choices. Others suggest ways to rebalance and re-imagine food choices as well as introduce new foods that can easily translate into satisfying meals. No sodium reduction effort will succeed if it undermines the flavor of our foods and the role that food plays in our lives. That’s why we urge a wide-ranging, innovative approach to sodium reduction, one that puts as much emphasis on culinary insight, taste, and flavor as on the scientific and public health imperatives.

The Big Picture: Total Diet Focus

1. Downsize your portions

3. Get fresh

A good rule of thumb is that the more calories a meal has, the more

Processed foods and prepared foods are the greatest sources of sodium

sodium it has. So skip the supersize. Share a dish when dining out.

in the American diet—75% by some estimates. Choose unprocessed and

You can cut your salt—and trim your waist.

minimally processed foods.

Our bodies need more potassium than sodium. Fruits and vegetables

Unfortunately, the big low-fat and no-fat product push in the ’90s

are naturally low in sodium, and many fruits and vegetables are good

wasn’t rooted in sound science. Many product developers cut both

sources of potassium. Filling your plate with them will boost your

the good and bad fats out and increased levels of sugar and sodium

2. Practice “produce first”

4. Embrace healthy fats and oils

potassium and shift the sodium-potassium balance in your favor.

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to maintain consumer acceptance. Embrace healthy fat—it might be just the ticket to make produce-centric—and sodium-reduced—cooking more appealing.

10. Compare, compare, compare Sodium levels vary widely for the same or similar grocery items.

Salt, Perception, and Psychology

5. Employ stealth health

Compare brands of processed food, including breads, cured meats, cheeses, and snack foods, choosing those with the lowest levels of sodium that still taste good. You’ll find that there’s a surprising degree of variation from brand to brand.

For many foods and preparations, the average person can’t detect differences in sodium levels, including reductions of up to as much as 25 percent. That’s great news. Many food manufacturers and restaurant companies have already made—or are in the process of making—substantial cuts in sodium that their customers will not be able to detect.

11. Watch out for hidden sodium “Fresh” and “natural” meats and poultry may be injected with salt solutions as part of their processing. Manufacturers are not required to list the sodium content on the label. Find out whether your favorite brand has been treated with a salt solution by asking the grocer or

6. Retrain your taste buds

butcher, or calling the toll-free consumer hotline on the product’s label.

Studies have found that we can shift our sense of taste to enjoy foods with lower levels of sodium. One key to success: make the changes gradually and consistently over a period of time. Try combining a reduced sodium version of a favorite product with a regular version in proportions that gradually favor the reduced sodium version. As time goes on, you won’t miss the salt.

12. Seek low-salt menu options

when dining out

It is common to find sandwiches and fast-food entrées with 2,000– 2,500 milligrams of sodium per serving—as much as or more than a day’s recommended sodium intake. Check restaurant websites for

7. Try a little romance

sodium information before you head out, or ask your server to steer you to low-salt choices.

Instead of calling something “low sodium,” try language like “with a touch of sea salt,” “citrus-infused,” or “garlic-scented,” and you’ll likely entice more people to taste and enjoy reduced-sodium dishes.

Know Your Salt Facts, Ask Questions

Flavor Strategies and Culinary Insights

13. Farm for flavor

8. Target high-volume sodium sources

At a time when we have “over-delivered” on the promise of affordable

Know which ingredients and individual foods are high in sodium, and

to refocus our attention on enhancing natural flavors. This means

eat them sparingly. Salt is ubiquitous in the American diet, but this top

growing more flavorful tomatoes at the same time we try to reduce

10 list of food sources of sodium is a good place to focus.

the sodium in tomato soup.

Meat-topped Pizza

White bread

Processed cheese

Hot dogs

Spaghetti with sauce

Ham

Catsup

Cooked rice

White rolls

Flour tortillas

calories, and both salt and sugar (and all refined carbohydrates) are turning out to have serious negative health consequences, we need

14. Know your seasons

and your local farmer

9. Scan the label

Shop for raw ingredients with maximum natural flavor, thereby

Look for foods with less than 300 milligrams of sodium per serving. small. A good rule of thumb for label reading is to look for no more

15. Spice it up

than one milligram of sodium per one calorie of food.

One of the easiest ways to reduce the need for added salt is through

But pay attention to serving sizes, as they are often unrealistically

avoiding the need to add as much, if any, sodium. Seek out peak-ofseason produce from farmers’ markets and your local supermarket.

the use of ingredients such as spices, dried and fresh herbs, roots like garlic and ginger, citrus, vinegars, and wine. These flavor enhancers create excitement on the palate—and can do it with less sodium.

mise en place no.61, September 2012

13

16. Go nuts for healthy fats

in the kitchen

Using the right healthy fats—from roasted nuts and avocados to olive, canola, soybean, and other oils—can help make up for any flavor loss from using less salt. Roasted nuts ground with spices extend and leverage small amounts of salt, such as in the Middle

22. Cook without layering

on the sodium

Avoid “double salting” your foods when cooking, and look for ways to pair salted flavors with unsalted or under-salted foods, especially fresh produce. For example, if you are adding a ham bone to a soup pot, lighten up on the sodium for the rest of the soup. A pot of brown rice

Eastern spice mixture dukkah.

or whole grain pasta doesn’t need to be salted if you are serving it with

Foods that are naturally high in a compound called L-glutamate

23. Rinse, wash, and dilute

trigger our umami taste receptors. Cooked chicken, fish, beef, and

Cut some of the excess sodium in processed foods with no loss of flavor

soybeans are naturally high in umami, as are mushrooms, tomatoes,

by draining and rinsing canned foods. In the case of canned beans,

seaweed, carrots, and Chinese cabbage. Incorporating these foods

cooks can cut 40 percent of the sodium with this trick. When making

into meals can add a delicious depth of flavor without adding

soup, dilute reduced sodium chicken broth with water or wine instead of

salt. Some foods that are high in umami are also high in sodium,

using it full strength, and float in some additional vegetables and herbs.

17. Try the flavor multiplier—umami

including soy sauce, fish sauce, aged cheeses, miso, and anchovy paste. Use these ingredients in small amounts instead of adding salt, reducing the overall sodium in the dish.

18. Use cooking methods

that help spare the salt

other adequately seasoned items or sauces.

24. Enjoy whole grains

Even whole grain bread can contain considerable sodium. But only part of the sodium in bread is for taste. Much of it is used to help the breadmaking process and preserve the final results. You can skip that extra salt when you use these marvelous whole grains by themselves. Try a

Take the time to learn some simple cooking techniques that can

Mediterranean-inspired whole grain salad with chopped vegetables,

make your cooking less reliant on sodium. Searing, sautéing, and

nuts, and legumes, and perhaps a small amount of cheese, herbs and

roasting all build flavor.

spices, healthy oil, and vinegar or citrus. You can enjoy many of the

19. Spend that sodium budget wisely

same flavors you love in a sandwich, but in a delicious new form that has much less sodium.

grains, nuts and legumes, and other healthy ingredients versus

25. Kick the “auto-salt” habit

“overspending” it on salty snacks, heavily processed food, high-

Always taste your food before you salt it. Try taking the saltshaker off

sodium fast foods, and other foods that we should be consuming in

the table and making it available “upon request only.” In the kitchen,

smaller amounts.

add salt late in the cooking process. Foods release their flavors (and

Save your “sodium budget” to enhance the flavors of produce, whole

20. Watch your condiments

salt, in the case of salted ingredients) during the cooking process, and “palate fatigue” on the part of the cook can cause over-salting if this is undertaken too early.

Pickles, capers, cured meats, grated aged cheeses, mustard, catsup,

cases, reduced sodium versions of these are now available; in other

More Research: By Scientists, Chefs, and Other Flavor Stakeholders

cases, we can just use them more sparingly.

Given how vital sodium reduction is, and how embedded sodium is in

soy sauce, hot sauce, smoked fish, and other condiments and specialty foods all bring added satisfaction to the table. In some

21. Go global

Look to global culinary traditions—from Europe and the Mediterranean, Latin America, Asia, and Africa—for healthy ideas.

Because many of these world culinary traditions build up flavor in such novel, complex, and intriguing ways, cooks are under less pressure to use as much sodium.

our food supply, culinary techniques, flavor strategies, manufacturing methods, and marketing assumptions, it is essential that we conduct additional research to shed more light on which sodium reduction strategies are most effective. With the benefit of this research, we will be better positioned to create reduced sodium flavors and food choices that consumers find not just acceptable, but compelling.

This piece was excerpted from the original article co-authored by Harvard School of Public Health and The Culinary Institute of America.

14

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Following the Presidential Trail

Hotel Ezra Cornell

Being a crusader is part of a college president’s role. Every

Our longtime academic partners at the Cornell School of Hotel

time President Ryan speaks to a group or company to

Administration hold Hotel Ezra Cornell every year. It is a

engage them in our mission to provide the best culinary

three-day event that serves as a practical exam for seniors in the

education, he’s crusading for our students. Every time he

program to practice the skills they have learned in the classroom

visits our partners in education, he’s crusading for long-term

and to showcase their talents to industry professionals. They

projects that support and distinguish the college. Every time

completely take over operations of Cornell’s Statler Hotel. For

he educates groups about the CIA’s leadership initiatives,

Tim, it was an important opportunity to touch base with our

he’s crusading for widespread change. For Tim, the work

partners at Cornell, raise the CIA flag, and re-connect with

of ensuring that our students, college, and community are

colleagues in the industry.

working together at the highest level is a crusade that never ends. Here are some of his recent efforts on behalf of the CIA.

Senator Schumer Supports CIA Initiatives

CIA Capitol Hill Reception

One of the issues Tim champions is Hudson Valley enrichment

On Wednesday, May 16, the CIA hosted a Capitol Hill

Chuck Schumer to advocate for the college around programs and

Reception at the United States Capitol Visitor Center.

projects that will benefit the entire region. Recently he hosted

There, in front of senators and their senior aides, he shared

Senator Schumer on the Hyde Park campus, where the senator

information about the college’s leadership initiatives in the

spoke about supporting a CIA facility—the new Marriott Pavilion—

areas of nutrition and public health. In addition, he spoke

in the hopes that it will serve as a nexus of CIA activities in

about how the CIA continues to set the gold standard in

support of both local farmers and food manufacturers.

and development. He has worked tirelessly to engage N.Y. Senator

professional education.

This reception was part of the college’s effort to build awareness in Congress and other government agencies about the CIA. Ultimately, Tim is hoping this will garner federal financial support for our strategic initiatives.

As always, alumni were there to support the CIA. Jeffrey Buben ’78 of Vidalia and Bistro Bis, and Albert Lukas ’91, corporate executive chef for Restaurant Associates, provided the tasting at the event.

president tim ryan and Congressman chuck schumer stride through the halls of the senate building

15

My Poetry Damien, Poetry does not feel the same.

Words people speak no longer flow.

My pen to paper keeps coming out blank.

You have gone and taken poetry with you.

Two students sitting around and brainstorming is how the World Diversity

Sometimes it hits me hard,

Festival got started. Damien “Juice” Williams and Eric Jenkins ‘11 got to

Sometimes I’m okay.

talking about how diverse the CIA campus was and how important it

But anything Poetry reminds me of you.

would be to promote and embrace that diversity. Their idea was to have a three-day festival held on the Hyde Park campus. But during the early

No one can ever speak words with as much

phases of planning, Damien suddenly and tragically passed away. Eric took

passion.

time to grieve for his friend and then decided the best way to pay tribute to him was to carry on. And so, this past May, after much hard work and

You used normal words that went through

the help of Assistant Professor in Culinary Arts David McCue ’93 and

my soul like daggers.

Externship Advisor Maura O’Meara, Eric made real the dream he’d had

Your performance of poetry was so unique

with his good friend.

and strong.

The goal of the festival was to raise awareness of diversity through

You were so great I could barely watch,

education, poetry, culinary competitions, and the simple enjoyment of sharing food.

I’d turn my head to hide my smile But if you only knew, how proud I was.

Day 1:

You are and always will be,

An interested group gathered to hear Gerry Fernandez, president and

My Poetry.

founder of The Multicultural Foodservice and Hospitality Alliance (MFHA), speak about managing the dynamics of a diverse workforce. His energetic delivery held everyone captivated as he shared his thoughts on everything from maintaining self-worth in the hospitality industry to working with diverse cultures to making the industry a better place.

That evening, the Word Poetry Club, headed by its president, Eric Jenkins, held a poetry slam entitled “Spoken Soul,” a tribute to Damien, who had founded the club. Damien’s mother, Cheryl Williams, was in attendance. More than 70 students came out to express themselves through poetry,

16

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

music, and comedy, or just to listen.

120 minutes to prepare an entrée and dessert

Breaana Quinones shared her feelings

that reflected the cuisine of two countries.

about the loss of her friend in a poem (see

They discovered which two countries they

page 16).

would be “representing” by picking national

Day 2:

flags right after the stage two competition managed to accrue $1,800 of prize money by

Out on Anton Plaza, a block party was

winning each of the three stages of the event,

going on that featured the many diverse clubs we have on campus. Club members made delicious assortments of food that ranged from traditional pretzels with two types of dipping sauce to delicacies from India. In all, 19 clubs participated in the block party.

Also on Saturday, stage one and stage two of the Walk Around the World Fusion Cooking Competition was held.

The two-day event was supported in no small measure by American Roland Food Corporation. The company donated product for use during the competition

ended! Team “A” Game, the ultimate winner,

The student club Friends of Chabad Association provided a kosher lunch for the participants and spectators who came out to share the final day of competition. While the cooking was taking place, a Jeopardy-style quiz game netted some lucky contestants cash, books, Visa gift cards, and other assorted prizes.

It was a full three days—full of emotion for a lost friend, full of learnings from an expert guest speaker, full of healthy competition, full of great food, and full of fun! Eric has begun planning next year’s event and already knows that it will be even bigger and better.

as well as $1,000 toward the grand prize.

Wegmans also had a presence in Chef Kevin Grenzig ’78, who served as a judge.

Eight teams began the first stage of the contest of culinary prowess with a 30-minute Knife Skills Tray. Participants made batonnet, medium dice, brunoise, chiffonade, and tourné under the watchful and critical eye of the judges.

Stage two, a Quick-Fire Appetizer Competition, lasted 60 minutes, during which eight teams each received 3–5 ingredients that had to be used in an appetizer. Competition was steep, as everyone knew that only four teams would progress to the finals on Sunday.

Day 3: Stage three of the Walk Around the World Fusion Cooking Competition gave

“Understanding and developing a more diverse nation through food—one plate at a time.”

World Diversity Festival theme

the remaining teams—“A” Game, Stew, Smokin’ Aces, and Le Coq Rouge—a mere

mise en place no.61, September 2012

17

Creating the An Interview with Alain Dubernard, CMB, CHE As anyone in the business can testify, starting up a new restaurant or bakery is both exhilarating and stressful. Alain Dubernard knows the feeling well. The department chair for baking and pastry arts at the CIA San Antonio (and former instructor and associate dean at the Hyde Park campus), Chef Dubernard opened the CIA Bakery Café at the Texas campus in early 2011. Here, he gives us a taste of what it took to make that happen—and to earn the café a “Best Bakery” nod from the critics at the San Antonio Express-News.

What challenges did you face when creating the CIA Bakery Café?

First, I have to say that we are a fantastic team here. Chef David Kellaway, CMC, our managing director, and Chef Jake Griffin ’08, our café manager, have been an invaluable part of the process. Collaborating with hard-working people with heart and passion makes the challenges easier to handle. The first big challenge we had was to find the correct people to build the back- and front-of-the-house teams.

Also, as with any other opening, we faced problems with equipment delivery and the correct functioning and pertinent adjustments to the machines. Finally, finding the right suppliers of raw materials, packaging, etc. was challenging.

What surprised you most in launching the café?

I don’t know if I would call it a surprise, but the response of the people to different textures, new flavors, and items that are mostly smaller than what people are used to here in Texas has been great. It was also interesting to see that while people did not go crazy for Mexican-style breakfast breads like conchas or cocoles, they did fall in love with our croissant!

chef alain dubernard

18

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

cia bakery café shelves ready for customers

Café manager jake griffin

In what ways is your customer base in San Antonio different from the one that frequents the Apple Pie Bakery Café at the Hyde Park, NY campus?

What is your vision for the future of the CIA Bakery Café and for baking and pastry education at the CIA San Antonio?

There is no way to compare our customers to the ones in Hyde

We have to keep working hard and taking care of details in order

Park. We do not have the internal customers—faculty, staff, and

to keep the CIA Bakery Café excellent in every aspect. The café is

students—that they do there, or the tourists. Our customer universe

ultimately the image for the baking and pastry arts curriculum here in

in San Antonio is local, and composed of different niches. For our

San Antonio, and I am very optimistic and sure that the baking and

breakfast breads, we have regulars who work or study close by, and

pastry program will be very successful.

for lunch, we have a wider audience that includes people who work for the medical centers, the Army, and many other organizations.

And for our pastries, we have people from all over San Antonio who come in.

How have these differences influenced your menu? Your operational strategy?

We have positioned the CIA Bakery Café as the best pastry shop in the city. And so we offer the best coffee and the best pastries, we must be innovative, and we have to be raising the bar as needed.

Our marketing strategies are different as well; we need to convince our customers to keep coming back to us, and this happens when everything is excellent in terms of service and products.

Anything else you’d like mise en place readers to know?

I just want to invite all our alumni to our great campus here in San Antonio. We have a nice mix of courses going on for professionals in baking and pastry arts, as well as in culinary arts. We are a very good team that is committed to education, and I can say that it would be an invaluable experience for any professional in the industry.

To learn more and take a video tour of the CIA Bakery Café hosted

by Chefs Dubernard and Griffin, visit www.ciarestaurants.com.

The café is open Tuesday through Saturday, 7 a.m.–5 p.m. and Sunday, 8 a.m.–5 p.m.

Register for courses at the CIA San Antonio at www.ciaprochef.com/programs.

Alain Dubrnard is department chair—baking and pastry arts at CIA San Antonio.

mise en place no.61, September 2012

19

Chow Down

at the Chowder Cook-Off

By Natalie Singer On a calm March morning that held the promise of a warm day ahead,

About the Crab” had created a crab cake-inspired soup. Team “Bikini

12 teams of eager young culinarians filed into the Student Recreation

Bottom Dwellers” had prepared a bagel and lox chowder with smoked

Center’s banquet kitchen, ready to prove they were “worth their

salmon and salmon roe. “Fish 3 Ways” gave traditional chowder a

salt” when it came to chowder brewing. The stakes were high, as gift

Brazilian spin with bacalao. “Sea Pearls” utilized roasted crab shells in

certificates, autographed books, and cash prizes as large as $1,000

their stock. And Team “We Don’t Have Crabs” used only ingredients

awaited the winners. Everyone had their eyes on the prize!

Each team had one hour to produce its chowder. Chef

Additional competitions included potato dicing, oyster shucking,

John Reilly ’88 was on the prowl, ever watchful for any

and oyster eating. After the shucking contest, Chef Corky Clark

breaches of professionalism or food safety. While for some teams, the pressure was intense, Team “Captain Hook, Line, & Sinker” stayed calm. “The kitchen was great!”

’71 dressed the newly shucked oysters with a diabolically hot salsa he and his MITs created. It included raw garlic; onions; shallots; and habañero, Scotch bonnet, and

they all nodded in agreement, and cited the timelines they

jalepeño peppers. The spellbound audience watched

had carefully created and the constant

as 18 oyster-eating contest participants happily—and

communication they maintained with

not so happily—slurped down mollusk after mollusk.

each other. Almost every team agreed that a proper chowder should include a roux, dairy products, and fish fumet.

Some teams opted for making lobster stock, while others roasted their fish and shellfish for a meatier flavor. Most teams included bacon in their recipe, and crab seemed to be the shellfish of choice.

A number of the event judges were CIA alumni faculty. They included Paul DelleRose ’94, John Fischer ’88, Morey Kanner ’84, John Kowalski ’77, and John Reilly ’88. All of the judges methodically considered each chowder. Students filtered in and out of the gym excitedly, predicting the outcomes as they waited for the public tasting to begin.

From table to table you could find evidence of culinary creativity and experimentation. Team “All

20

that were in season locally.

As the awards were about to be presented, the tension in the gym was palpable. Here’s how it all came out: Showmanship Award: Team “Captain Hook, Line, & Sinker” People’s Choice Award: Team “Soup-a-Stars” Third Place: Team “Captain Hook, Line, & Sinker” Second Place: Team “Jajajiences” First Place: Team “Soup-a-Stars” As the crowd dispersed, full and happy, into the warm afternoon sunlight, the tired but jubilant teams returned to their booths to congratulate one another and dismantle their displays.

The 11th Annual Chowder Cook-off had been a culinary and crowdpleasing success.

Natalie Singer is a candidate for an associate degree in culinary arts (anticipated May 2013).

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

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Innovation Through Leadership Reflections on the Culinary Enrichment and Innovation Program

By Shelly Loveland

For a culture of innovation to flourish, it must be nurtured through committed, visionary leadership. With that in mind, the CIA and Hormel Foods Corporation created the Culinary Enrichment and Innovation Program (CEIP) to develop the leadership potential of rising stars in the foodservice industry.

As executive chef for Vi at Highlands Ranch, Greg Strickland and his crew of 22 are responsible for creating and delivering exciting, healthful menus for the residents of the Colorado senior living

Having graduated its first two classes, in 2010 and 2012, the

community. So the health and wellness module of

CEIP is already generating positive ripple effects of change in

CEIP was invaluable.

the industry. That should come as no surprise; not only do CEIP participants have the opportunity to apply innovative thought in practical applications while at the CIA, they also bring invaluable knowledge back to their organizations. In addition to the insights they gain from their expert instructors, they learn just as much from each other. Because their classmates come from virtually every segment of the industry, they discover whole new ways of looking at problems and solutions.

Light bulbs have been going off all over the place. My focus at Vi is on healthy cooking, so one was, “Don’t cook health food. People don’t like it and they don’t want to be told what to do.” Instead, focus on making darn good food.

Getting old is about loss—of a spouse, your friends, your independence.

So the idea that I can still prepare the things the residents like is very important. Instead of taking things away, you add some beans to a soup, some leafy greens to a meatloaf dinner. One of the biggest things

Four of these professionals share their thoughts on the program

we learned in CEIP is to not be afraid of fat and salt, but instead, to

and how it has changed their approach to leadership and

use them last. That was mind-blowing for me.

innovation.

22

Greg Strickland, CEC, CDM, CFPP

The culinary industry, and especially the senior living segment, can

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Jonna Anne

become calcified. I’m really proud of what I do and I want to be sure that senior living is just as cutting edge as anything else in foodservice.

As the executive chef for the State University of New

What intrigued me about CEIP was the idea of helping to shape

York, Geneseo College in Geneseo, NY, Jonna Anne

tomorrow. That’s how I feel about what we’re doing here.

sets the culinary vision for a university community with approximately 5,000 students. This includes

Denise Baron Herrera

everything from recipes to training trends to a campus

Denise Baron Herrera is vice president of food and

dining renovation.

beverage for the Massachusetts-based Burtons Grill,

CEIP changed my approach to my job in terms

where she oversees back-of-the-house operations for

of looking at it from more of a global perspective,

the company’s multiple locations. Her responsibilities include developing menus, training staff, monitoring

taking into consideration all the research that’s going on now, and the

quality, and negotiating purchasing deals.

focus on chefs serving healthy food. I consider how we can help shape

CEIP made me look at more aspects of the leadership role. I’ve taken things I learned at the CIA to educate and elevate my staff. It’s important to have ongoing

and change how kids eat. We focus on flavor and what students like, while also asking ourselves, “Could we replace the heavy cream in this dish with skim milk?”

education for servers, line cooks, and sous chefs, as well as myself, so

CEIP is not just another cooking class. You learn to think through

I’ve set up monthly training meetings to help all of us stay current.

problems and situations and define how we can direct them as leaders.

I worked with the CEO to put together training modules, from

The strategic planning topic was a huge help in terms of organizing

purchasing to receiving to recipe execution.

our culinary team, training my staff on how to think strategically, and

I really liked the leadership module of CEIP. The discussion led by

seeing trends.

Steve Binder from Hormel about having succession and development

Since taking the program, I’m more comfortable and confident. I

plans was really important for us because we are a young organization;

learned a lot while I was at the CIA, and even now, I have times where

I co-founded Burtons six years ago. So I took those lessons home.

I encounter a situation and realize, “Oh, that’s what they meant.” It’s a

CEIP is definitely a valuable experience; I would love to do it again.

continuation of what I learned.

Christopher Culp

Shelly Loveland is a writer/editor in the CIA’s Creative Services department.

Christopher Culp is manager of food and beverage concepts and innovation for InterContinental Hotels Group in Atlanta, GA. There, he creates concepts and operational platforms for the group’s hotels, including developing recipes, menu concepts, and catering

CEIP at a Glance The CEIP is comprised of four intense three-day modules

platforms, and doing front- and back-of-the-house

held over the course of 18 months. Each provides a

consulting.

mix of classroom learning, one-on-one interaction with

As a chef it is hard to put a finger on what areas

industry leaders, and hands-on kitchen work:

you need to learn from a culinary standpoint to help propel your career. In this program, they’re doing a great job of showing us new things. The subjects covered in CEIP would be an asset to any chef.

The program has so much to offer—it bridges the gap between the kitchen and the boardroom. Going from sous chef to executive chef is a big step, but going from executive chef to a culinary operations position is a huge leap, and the CEIP can facilitate that.

In CEIP, you get a better sense of the culinary world, but from

• Flavor Dynamics and Flavor Exploration • Contemporary Approach to Health and Wellness • Leadership and Innovation Strategies • Innovative Menu Development for Profitable Operations

a broader stance. This is important to me—to be able to be an

Graduates are certified by the CIA and become members

ambassador and convey the passion to people outside the industry, and

of the Hormel Circle of Innovation, an influential network

work with hotel people at our different properties to convince them of

of chefs who participate in ongoing learning and dialog.

the importance of their food and beverage operations.

To learn more, visit www.ceipinfo.com. Applications for the CEIP Class of 2014 will be accepted beginning

mise en place no.61, September 2012

September 1, 2012.

23

Book Shelf

Chefs Can Save the World

Vegan Cooking for Carnivores

How to Green Restaurants and Why They Are the Key to Renewing the Food System

By Roberto Martin ’00 In this book you will find

By Jeremy Chase Barlow ’97

vegan recipes so tasty even a carnivore won’t miss

Jeremy Barlow is chef and

the meat. As personal

owner of Tayst, the first and only three-star green

chef to stars Ellen

certified restaurant in

DeGeneres and Portia

Nashville, TN. In this

De Rossi, Roberto Martin set out to meet

book he reveals his

their request to eat

evolving passion for all things local, sustainable, and

only a vegan diet. Throughout this book he provides recipes that rely less on specific ingredients and more on technique and the translation

green. Readers will benefit from Jeremy’s research and experience as he takes the everyday restaurateur through

of familiar, beloved flavors. The more than 125 delicious vegan

the “how tos” of greening his or her business. He offers tips on

recipes will delight carnivores, vegetarians, and vegans alike.

everything from finding the best energy-efficient light bulbs to using beeswax candles for atmosphere to being sure you are sourcing fish responsibly. Jeremy presents a realistic view of the gradual changes that everyone in the foodservice industry can embrace.

Vegetarian Cooking at Home

Crete: The Roots of the Mediterranean Diet

By Katherine Polenz ’73 with The Culinary

By Nikki Rose ’94

Institute of America

This tiny book has a big message

You don’t

for people who

have to be

are interested

vegetarian to love vegetarian food.

This beautifully photographed book brings easy yet elegant lacto-ovo vegetarian recipes to life. Techniques specific to creating delicious vegetarian fare are included throughout. You’ll find ways to transform your favorite dish into a vegetarian triumph. And “How to Make It Your Own” sections show up in each chapter to help you “mix up” a recipe and think outside the box.

24

in enjoying the advantages of a healthy Mediterranean diet and learning more about the cuisine of Crete. Nikki Rose, a longtime resident of Greece, shows readers how to use readily available ingredients to capture healthful flavors in a unique way. This book takes you through the rhythms of the seasons in Crete while offering up delicious recipes to create your own meze table that will delight everyone.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

KUDOS

James Beard Foundation Awards 2012 If it’s James Beard Award season, you can be sure that a number of CIA alumni are on the list to be recognized for their achievements. Below you’ll find the names of fellow grads who were finalists this year. In red are our two big winners, Grant Achatz and Linton Hopkins. Linton has

been nominated every year since 2008 for Best Chef: Southeast. Guess the fifth time was the charm!

Grant was inducted into the Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America and his restaurant Next won as Best New Restaurant. Congratulations to all the finalists and our winners.

Sara Moulton ’77, Media Personality: Sara’s Weeknight Meals

Grant Achatz ’94, Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America

Gary Danko ’77, Outstanding Chef

and Best New Restaurant: Next

Michael Chiarello ’82, Best Chef: Pacific (Bottega)

Linton Hopkins ’95, Best Chef: Southeast (Restaurant Eugene)

Gerard Hayden ’86, Best Chef: Northeast (The North Fork)

Alon Shaya ’99, Best Chef: South (Domenica)

Jennifer Jasinski ’89, Best Chef: Southwest (Rioja)

Susan Zemanick ’01, Rising Star Chef of the Year (Gautreau’s)

Andrew Carmellini ’91, Book Award: American Flavor

Thomas McNaughton ’04, Rising Star Chef of the Year (Flour

John Besh ’92, Book Award: My Family Table: A Passionate Plea

& Water)

for Home Cooking

30 Under 30

of “communication” guiding him, Chef Durfee

Every year, the famed Zagat Guide puts together a listing of New

prepared a chocolate

York City’s hottest up-and-coming chefs—its 30 Under 30. These

entremet, a restaurant-

young chefs have earned some notice and Zagat believes they are

style dessert, and a

worth watching as their careers unfold. A number of those named

sculpture in chocolate—

are CIA alumni. Recognize anyone from your class?

all with Batman’s Bat

Joseph Michael Ogrodnek ’02, chef/co-founder, Battersby

Signal as an element.

The judges were so

Walker Lewis Stern ’02, chef/co-founder, Battersby

impressed they chose him

Matthew Joseph Tilden ’02, owner/baker, Scratchbread

to be the member of the

Erik Jason Battes ’04, chef de cuisine, Jean Georges

American team to create

Leah Kaithern ’05, manager, Caffe Storico

the chocolate sculpture

Gilley Tang ’06, personal chef/co-founder, Shorty Tang & Sons

at the competition in France. Chef Durfee will

Corey Arthur Cova ’07, chef, Earl’s Beer & Cheese, and ABV

be joined there by Andy Chlebana of Joliet Junior

CIA Instructor Going to Coupe du Monde

College in Joliet, IL and Christophe Feyt of the

The Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie competition, to be held in Lyon, France in January 2013, is the baking and pastry equivalent

Paris Las Vegas hotel in Las Vegas, NV.

of the prestigious Bocuse d’Or for culinary chefs. The CIA at

Chef Durfee has received many accolades during his career. He was

Greystone’s own Chef-Instructor in Baking and Pastry Arts Stephen Durfee has been selected to be part of the team representing the U.S. at the competition. He spent countless hours preparing for the event that would select the U.S. team. With the prescribed theme

mise en place no.61, September 2012

part of the opening team for The French Laundry in 1994, won the James Beard Award for Pastry Chef of the Year in 1998, and was named one of the 10 Best Pastry Chefs in America in 1999 by Pastry Art & Design and Chocolatier magazines.

25

Bridging the Gap by Giving Back CIA Grads in the Classroom CIA alumni are the college’s legacy, and what a legacy they are! But

compliance officer because she was the only one who understood the

young alumni starting out, who may find it difficult to give back to

language being used during orientation. Kara says, “I knew what CQI

the college monetarily, often ask, “How can I give back to the CIA in

and TQM meant (Continuous Quality Improvement and Total Quality

another way?” Well, graduates who took the Foodservice Management

Management).

in Health Care (FSMHC) course, begun in December 2010, are finding a way. These young culinarians are returning to the CIA to share their successes and experiences with second-semester seniors who are currently taking the unique course.

Aya Kuroda ’10 is working in the U.S. for New York Mutual Trading, specializing in kitchen supplies and tableware from Japan. “Basically my role is to find new markets, other than Japanese restaurants, on the East Coast.” Aya came to class to share her passion for unique

Since this elective was created and developed by Assistant Professor in

types of thickening agents not currently found in the U.S., which can

Business Management Lynne Eddy, five classes, totaling 64 students,

be used to modify the texture of food for patients who have difficulty

have taken the course. And because of it, students are opting for

swallowing.

jobs in health care. Companies in this booming industry are seeking

Other CIA alumni who have presented in class and/or hosted students

classically trained culinarians to work in luxury retirement centers,

at their sites include:

assisted care facilities, independent care properties, and other continuing care retirement centers (CCRC).

How do we know this course is helping CIA graduates enter the field of health care? More than 20 of our CIA graduates of the Foodservice Management in Health Care course have accepted employment with one company alone, Unidine. Based out of Boston, MA, Unidine

Craig Merrill ’73, associate director—dining services, Glen Arden Elant CCRC, Goshen, NY Anthony Fischetti ’78, executive chef, Vassar Brothers Medical Center, Poughkeepsie, NY Tim Celuck ’85, executive chef, Kingston Hospital, Kingston, NY

specializes in food and dining management services across three

Jim McGrody ’90, author and director culinary services, Rex

business segments: senior dining, hospital dining, and business dining.

Healthcare, Raleigh, NC

Coming Back to Give Back

Gower Lane ’92, director of operations, Kendal on Hudson, Sleepy

Two CIA graduates have recently returned to share their experiences

Tim Strasser ’84, executive chef, Vi, Yonkers, NY

as guest speakers in the FSMHC class. Kara Andretta ’10 is dining services director for Unidine at United Hospice of Rockland. Kara

Hollow, NY

Matt Camp ’02, dining services director, Unidine, Boston, MA

shared her enthusiasm for her position with the students in the class,

Chris Garrand ’02, district manager, Unidine, Boston, MA

explaining how she is cooking personalized meals for terminally ill

Marc Uhrik ’97, executive chef, St. Luke’s Cornwall Hospital,

patients. On her very first day, she was able to impress the company’s

Newburgh, NY A new alumnus, Paul Goskowski ’10, expressed the sentiments of many who have taken the FSMHC course when he said, “I’ve recently developed and implemented a new purée initiative in my facility in Maryland! I feel Professor Eddy’s class lays the foundation for anyone entering this side of the industry. I’m sure that one day I’ll be the one standing in front of her class recruiting great culinary talent.”

No doubt many of the young alumni who took this class will also find their way back to share their experiences with “new recruits” for the health care industry.

CIA graduates who are working in the health care industry and

vassar hospital’s executive chef anthony fischetti ‘78 takes students through the prep area at the hospital

26

are interested in being a guest speaker in the classroom can contact Assistant Professor Lynne Eddy at l_eddy@culinary.edu or 845-905-4660.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Keeping the CIA a “Well-Oiled” Machine

By Felicia Zammit

At The Culinary Institute of America, we’ve always known that to

Jim DeJoy, advancement officer in charge of the CIA’s Gift-in-Kind

get exceptional results, you must start with good, wholesome, quality

program, reiterates McCullough’s sentiment. “Gifting products to

ingredients and products. The folks at Bunge (pronounced bun-ghee)

the CIA is a win-win for all involved,” he says. “Corporations have

North America know this too. According to Bill McCullough, director

a priceless opportunity to get their products into the hands of future

of marketing for Bunge Oils, “We want to arm students with products

culinary leaders who develop loyalty to those products and use them

that provide the best taste, value, and health benefits for their future

when they go out into the field. Additionally, our students have the

culinary endeavors.”

opportunity to work with top-quality ingredients that ultimately

Founded in Amsterdam in 1818, Bunge, a leading agribusiness food

enhance their recipes for a greater end product.”

company with worldwide operations, prides itself on delivering

Over the years, Bunge’s relationship with the CIA has grown from

products that take the shortest distance from harvest to market. Bunge

gifting product to sponsoring several of the CIA’s leadership and

is a leader in the areas of:

industry conferences and retreats—events that provide sponsors

• Providing soybeans, corn, wheat, sorghum, canola, and rice both domestically and world-wide • Oilseed processing • Oils

and attendees the chance to reach top operators and corporate chefs in volume foodservice. “Partnering with the CIA on these programs has given Bunge the opportunity to showcase our products and educate our customers about the positive role that beneficial fats and oils can and should play in foodservice. In fact, our food truck, nicknamed M.O.E. (Mobile Oil Experts), made its first trip

• Milling

to the CIA’s California campus in 2009 for the Worlds of Flavor

For more than a decade, Bunge North America has been involved

International Conference and Festival that focused on street food.”

with the CIA’s Gift-in-Kind program, providing baking shortenings,

The CIA is thrilled to have Bunge in its network of industry

canola and soybean salad oils, and high oleic canola oil for deep-

partners. McCullough agrees, “We look forward to working with the

frying. Today, you can find Bunge products in the kitchens at all three

CIA as they expand into Asia and hope we can offer more support

of our U.S. campuses. “At Bunge we know that it’s in the teaching

in educating students on the value of selecting the appropriate fats

kitchens that CIA students are first exposed to foodservice brands

and oils for their next culinary adventure.”

and where they start to develop brand loyalty,” explains McCullough.

“Shortenings, specialty fats, and premium frying oils may not be center

Felicia Zammit is a CIA advancement officer.

of the plate but they can represent a significant food cost on a menu.”

mise en place no.61, September 2012

27

Why Give?

Allison Siegel ’80 What makes giving meaningful?

We’re three CIA generations strong—my dad, Alfred Rosenthal; my son, Corey Siegel ’10; and me, Allison Siegel ’80. Our connection to the college goes back to its earliest days in New Haven, CT. My dad, always a food and wine lover, was a student of James Beard and Julia Child. He was also a member of the James Beard Foundation, the American Institute of Wine & Food, the Confrérie du Chevaliers du Tastevin, Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs and, eventually, a CIA Member of the Corporation and Life Fellow. After retiring as president of a multinational corporation, he started By Invitation Only LTD, an event-planning firm. Food and great restaurants were a huge part of my life growing up. Knowing my passion for all things food-related, my dad suggested the CIA when I was looking for a college. It was easy to fall in love with the school. After graduation, I worked at the Helmsley Palace Hotel in New York City. Then, while I was working for Aramark at New York University, I earned a bachelor’s degree in foodservice management from the school. I’ve been with Aramark for 29 years, in positions ranging from executive chef to resident district manager. My CIA training also prepared me to participate in Aramark’s Guest Chef exchange program in Barcelona and Pamplona, Spain.

My son Corey shared the family love of food. His high school BOCES chef-instructor saw Corey’s potential and got him involved with the American Culinary Federation competition. Together, they were fierce competitors. As an alumna, I brought Corey to the CIA for visits every year. By 10th grade, he decided he wanted to attend. After graduation, he began a three-year apprenticeship program at The Greenbrier in West Virginia. Executive Chef Richard Rosendale took Corey under his wing and pushed him

moments. I was able to relive my experience and see how things have changed. There are advances in technology, specializations, and the curriculum, as well as things like the library, the lodges, and the restaurants. All of these things really have an impact on student learning.

to constantly strive for perfection. Richard asked Corey to be his

How Do You Give?

commis for the Bocuse d’Or USA competition held at the CIA

Supporting the college helps to enhance the student experience,

last January, and with my dad and me cheering them on, Richard

provides scholarship opportunities, improves library and technology

and he won! They are now training to represent the USA in Lyon,

resources, and recruits and retains a world-class faculty and staff.

France in 2013.

Making a donation after talking with a student during the annual

What Motivates You to Give?

We give because of our love, respect, and deep admiration for the school. It will always be a huge part of our lives. When Corey decided he wanted to attend the CIA, it was one of my proudest

28

allison siegel, corey siegel, and alfred rosenthal

phonathon, giving online to the “making some noise” e-mail campaign, or sending back the mise en place insert with a check, are some of the many ways we give. Keeping the dream of the CIA alive is how and why we give. And we give every chance we get. As a family, we take pride in the CIA degree, the school, and its graduates. Without it, the picture (above) of the three of us would not have been possible.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Giving’s Impact Jacob Churchman ’11 AOS in Baking and Pastry Arts ’11 BPS in Baking and Pastry Arts Management ’12

Recipient: Michael Cech Endowed Scholarship, Ronald and Elizabeth Magruder Endowed Scholarship, Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs—Hal J. Rosoff Memorial Scholarship, Augie™ Awards Dinner Endowed Scholarship

What motivated you to attend the CIA? I believe my mother was the single greatest influence in my decision to pursue a career in the foodservice industry. When I was six, she earned her culinary certificate at the New Orleans Culinary Institute.

Shortly thereafter, she started Churchman’s Catering. By the time I was seven years old, I was involved in a catering function of some type every weekend. My mother would dress me up in my finest clothes and have me working alongside her, walking around and serving appetizers. You can only imagine the tips a seven-year-old boy made just by wearing a tuxedo! During high school, when I went searching for a job in the foodservice industry, I got the chance to apprentice under two certified master bakers. When they learned of my desire to attend culinary school, they told me that The Culinary Institute of America was simply the finest school a chef could attend.

What has been the best part of being at the CIA?

travel and learn about cultures around the world—one that helps me to

In addition to my course work here at the CIA, the opportunities

or activities director. After that, and for the rest of my life, I will be a

outside of class have meant a lot to me. I’ve been part of S.P.I.C.E. (Student Programming Igniting Campus Entertainment). After serving as the group’s president for two years, I realized I have a passion for programming. To that end, I’ve been hired as the CIA activities intern. I’ve been very lucky to go to a culinary school and graduate with not only a bachelor’s degree, but with an equal amount of event management and planning knowledge. The CIA has led me into a career that will fully showcase my personal talents.

further my education. I see myself working in the luxury cruise line industry, where I hope to work my way up to the job of cruise director student taking one step at a time; learning new things every day, and, with luck, climbing the corporate ladder to success.

How has the CIA’s scholarship program helped you?

It has given me the opportunity of a lifetime. Without the assistance I’ve received, I would not have been able to fulfill my dreams. I am truly excited about beginning my career in the cruise line industry;

What are your plans for the future?

it’s a dream come true. I can’t thank those who had a hand in the

I know that in the next five to ten years I want a job that allows me to

and find my true calling.

mise en place no.61, September 2012

scholarship program enough for giving me the opportunity to succeed

29

THEN&NOW

New Haven Restaurant Institute in a single building on a street corner in New Haven, CT The CIA moved to a Jesuit novitiate overlooking the Hudson River in Hyde Park, NY

We thought it would be fun to take you on a trip down memory lane to see just how much the CIA’s main campus has changed since it opened its doors back in 1946. From a New Haven, CT street corner to a Jesuit novitiate in Hyde Park, NY, the CIA has grown almost unimaginably.

These pictures are reminders of just how far we have come and that the sky is the limit when we think about where we are going!

Outside the mansion in New Haven Enjoying a moment overlooking the Hudson River in Hyde Park

A two-layer buttercream cake gets special attention in New Haven This CIA student’s cake won Best in Show at the 144th Salon of Culinary Art

A pick-up game of softball in New Haven

30

19462012

Established fields and teams are part of the sporting life in Hyde Park

Dining in a stark hall, New Haven Dining in the glorious Farquharson Hall in Hyde Park

A mirror hung precariously over the instructor’s head in the New Haven demo kitchen Digital screens make demos in the commodious Danny Kaye Theatre easy and safe

Academic classes were held on the basement level in New Haven Students take liberal arts classes in light and airy modern classrooms in Hyde Park

New Haven students learn the art of braiding bread Student displays perfect challah bread fresh from the ovens of the Apple Pie Bakery Café kitchen

Paper cook’s hats were the style of the day in New Haven Toques are the headgear of choice in Hyde Park

Small and modest would best describe the college’s first library in New Haven The Conrad N. Hilton Library in Hyde Park is home to more than 86,000 books, 4,500 DVDs and videos, and 280 periodicals

31

’56

Richard Dearden is retired and loves it. He still does a bit

’72

Sheryl Ann Hein is lead cook for residential dining at

’78

Marc Schlenz is director of club operations for the St.

Country Club at Castle Pines

in Castle Pines, CO as well as special

Western Oregon University in Mon-

reports that his daughter, Ellen Dearden

mouth, OR. She has a new grandson and

FL. Brian Scully is manager of the

event and demo chef for Whole Foods,

’84, is enjoying a successful career. Rich-

granddaughter.

Royal Kona Resort Romance Center in

also in Colorado. Donna Ewanciw is

ard had the chance to spend a day with

Kailua Bay, HI. From 1984–2008, he had

chef/owner of Radice Restaurant in Blue

Joe Amendola just before he passed away

a successful catering and event company

Bell, PA. Carol Newhouse is a workers’

in Denver, CO, which he sold when he

compensation law judge for New York

moved to Hawaii to retire. Though his

State Workers’ Compensation Board in

“retirement” consists of working 45 hours

Albany, NY. Michael Posid is executive

a week for the resort, he truly loves life in

chef at Christian Health Care Center

paradise.

in Wyckoff, NJ. He would love to get

could ever know.”

’61

’73

Edward Fisher is quality assurance director for Omar

Coffee Company in Newington, CT. Richard L. Szydlyk has retired from

James Billings is retired

the business he owned providing meal

from the Greenville County

packs for K-12 schools.

School in Burlington, VT. He has three daughters, three stepdaughters, and 13 grandchildren. He also kept busy coaching baseball and football for 24 and five years, respectively.

’66

’74

Daniel Kotowski has reached some important

milestones. He retired in 2010 after 34 years with Compass Group, and he and his wife just celebrated their 40th anniver-

Paul H. Schmidt is retired

sary. He recently completed his log home

after a long career that

in Vermont and enjoys snowboarding,

included 26 years at Russell Sage College,

snowmobiling, sailing, and clamming. He

two years at Price Chopper Food Market,

is living life and loving it.

10 years at Amtrak, and five years with Compass Group.

’67

in contact with his classmates Carlos,

’79

Jeff A. Miller is in his third term as commissioner of the

town of Matthews, NC. He is also the inventory control area manager for Family Dollar’s corporate headquarters, also in Matthews. Michael O’Donnell is national account manager and corporate

’82

Henry Meer is chef/owner of City Hall Restaurant in

New York City. Daniel Streett just executive chef at the Country Club of

year veteran of the foodservice industry

Maryland in Towson, MD.

and is now owner of ’Wiches of Boston,

’75

James Sands is chef/owner of

LLC. The company uses liquid nitrogen

Zoe’s Fish House in Hadley,

to make intensely flavored ice cream creations during private events in the New

is the owner and blacksmith

vocate has named Zoe’s Best of the Valley

England region. Take a look at what she’s

at Second Circle Forge in Ignacio, CO.

Seafood Restaurant for 15 straight years.

doing at www.wichesofboston.com.

’76

’80

his new Harley-Davidson!

who you are!”

celebrated his 20-year anniversary as

MA. The Western Massachusetts Valley Ad-

Homes. He’s ready to put some miles on

1979 softball champs. He says, “You know

Shoreview, MN. Paula Waxman is a 30-

Donald (Smokey) Adams

of building fancy ironwork for Highland

Danny, Be, Hoe, “The Fubbos,” and the

chef for TW Garner Food Company in

He is preparing to retire after 36 years Robert J. Hanné is a culinary arts instructor for

’83

Donald Muszalski is general manager for Legends Hos-

pitality at Yankee Stadium in the Bronx, NY. Ira Siegel is executive chef at Just Restaurant & Lounge in Old Bridge, NJ. Ellen Zarcone is executive sous chef

Jeff Azer is in sales and

at the Hilton Pearl River in Pearl River,

design for Cornerstone

NY. She is also senior experience mentor

Restaurant Supply and Design in Palm

in the Bergen County Academies senior

proud to announce the birth of his first

Desert, CA. Peter Coldren is chef/own-

experience program.

Leonard Gentieu is chef/

grandson, Wyatt Christopher Hanné, in

er of Quality & Elegance by Coldren’s

owner of Papagallo Yacht

July 2011. Timothy Martin is vice presi-

Catering and Peterallynn’s and Company,

Charters, a floating event center in Morro

dent, contracting & procurement

both in Reading, PA. He is the proud

Bay, CA. Peter Harrison is owner/

for Duke Corporate Education in

father of seven children and, as a hobby,

president of A&P Turbo Clean in

Durham, NC.

enjoys creating customized festival con-

’68

Virginia College in Savannah, GA. He is

cessions. Martin E. Grossel is a partner

Bentonville, AR.

’70

Loring W. Bush is spending his free time writing a

’77

Daniel Brule is culinary instructor at The Bradenton

Bridge, in Bradenton, FL, which provides

cookbook. Martin Johner has married

transition and work release opportuni-

Professor Gary A. Goldberg, his partner

ties for nonviolent inmates at Florida

of 40 years. Together they founded Cu-

facilities. Daniel teaches a 28-week ACF-

linary Center of New York in New York

sponsored culinary fundamentals course

City, which provides classes, catering,

that prepares inmates for job placement.

and consulting. Martin has co-authored

Randy Fournier is manager of global

two cookbooks and has been featured

dining & food safety for Hess Corpora-

on television, radio, and in print as “The

tion in Houston, TX.

Chocolate Chef.”

32

Lisa Callison is chef at The

of consulting and some catering work. He

and says, “He was the nicest man you

Andrews Country Club in Boca Raton,

’81

in Pride Caterers, which is an off-premise caterer in the New York Metropolitan area. James Lenhardt is food production manager for Aramark at Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia in Philadelphia, PA. Stephen Worsley is currently in Buenos Aires, Argentina, which is just one

’84

Joseph Donnelly is general manager/COO of the Alpine

Country Club in Demarest, NJ. Sharon Hage is owner/chef/consultant for S. Hage Consulting in Dallas, TX. Alan Romano is chef-instructor at Guilford Technical Community College in Jamestown, NC. He recently received The Cutting Edge Award from the American Culinary Federation at its Southeast Regional Conference.

stop on his trip around the world to study food and culture.

’85

Joseph Archazki is general manager at The Commons

Club at the Brooks in Bonita Springs, FL. T. Scott Clayton is owner/general

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

contractor of Top Notch Preservation in Dahlonega, GA. He also works part-time in patient foods at the Northside Forsyth

’89

Jason Bobson is chef/owner of Pici Enoteca in Beverly

Hills, CA. Michael and Wendy Jordan

’94

Cornelius Gallagher is chef/owner of the Dragon-

fly Restaurant in New York City. Eric

You Make A Difference!

Hospital in Cumming, GA. Joseph

are both culinary instructors at the Seattle

Meisel is a broker/sales representative

O’Connor is executive chef—meal

Culinary Academy in Seattle, WA. Marc

and chef for Michaels & Associates, con-

solutions for Mariano’s Fresh Market in

Lubetkin is director of communications

sultants in foodservice, in Grand Rapids,

Naperville, IL. Greg Paulson is program

for Sodexo in Weatogue, CT. He is also

MI. Melissa A. Schell-Adkins is head

Almost 40% of CIA students

director and instructor—culinary arts at

owner of the Red Stone Pub in Simsbury,

pastry chef at Bellefonte Country Club in

are referred by our alumni!

Georgia Northwestern Technical College

CT. Williams N. Mooney is chef/

Ashland, KY. She was married in 2011 in

in Rome, GA. David J. Reid is corporate

owner of The Brothers Moon Restaurant

her hometown of Rochester, NY.

Any prospective student you

chef/owner of Bluefrog Foods LLC in

in Hopewell, NJ, which is celebrating its

Austell, GA. Ronald A. Welch is train-

11th year in operation.

ing store manager for Harry & David in St. Augustine, FL. He has three children

tor of food and beverage at

May, he won the 2012 Supermarket Chef

the Pronghorn Golf Club in Bend, OR.

Showdown held in Dallas, TX and spon-

Raymond Camillo is owner/president

sored by McCormick. Robert Giesman

of Blue Orbit Restaurant Advisors in Ro-

is the executive chef for The Kenwood by

Robert A. Bruce is area

swell, GA. Lee Cohen is wine director/

Senior Star in Cincinnati, OH.

general manager for Sodexo

manager for Darden at The Capital Grille

and fishing.

in Albany, NY. Stephen Higgs has been

in Washington, DC. Kevin W. Early is

a courier at Federal Express for the past

director of dining and catering at Windsor

13 years. He also owns Cooters Country

Meade of Williamsburg, a continuing care

Catering—a mobile catering company

retirement community in Williamsburg,

that specializes in BBQ—and regularly

VA. Julienne Guyette is chef-instructor

competes on the Kansas City BBQ

in the culinary arts and nutrition program

Society competition circuit. Stephen

at the University of New Hampshire’s

M. Maronian was admitted into the

Thompson School of Applied Sciences

Académie Culinaire de France at a June

in Durham, NH. Paul Paetow is general

ceremony in Chicago. He teaches classes

manager for Aramark in Philadelphia, PA.

at Norwalk Community College in Nor-

Scott Terle is consultant/owner of La

walk, CT. Derin Moore is executive chef

Bonn Cuisine in Gainesville, FL.

for The Broadmoor in Colorado Springs, CO. John Petronella is owner/principal of ManhattanJack specializing in handcrafted artisan chocolates and confections in Norco, LA. Michael Stoddart is chef/owner of Seasons Caterer Special Occasion in Lexington, KY.

’91

Charles Bishop is chef/owner of Squiretown Restaurant

& Bar in Hampton Bays, NY. He was married in 2010 and welcomed his baby daughter Riley in August 2011. Peter Kim is owner of Blue Finn in Middletown, NY.

Anthony Dilucia is general manager at Hotel Jerome in

Aspen, CO.

’88

’92

is executive chef for AVI

Food Systems, Inc. at Alfred University in Alfred, NY. Gretchen is working on an

service instructor at Gross-

ongoing project for state schools regard-

mont Union High School in El Cajon,

ing farm-to-table sustainability with local

CA. He earned the 2012 Cutting Edge

business farmers. She is proud to say that

Award at the ACF’s Western Regional

Alfred is one of the very first schools to

Conference and was named 2012 Chef

have gone trayless.

strategy consultant for Sam’s Club and Cookwork.com. Her work includes trend tracking, recipe and menu development, food photography supervision, and food

’93

change a life. It’s easy!

Just visit www. ciaalumninetwork. com/refer

Joshua Baur is a private chef in New Paltz, NY. He was one

of the chefs who cooked for Chelsea Clin-

Lake George, NY. Susan Woytowich

ton’s wedding reception, and specializes

Ferry is manager at Larry’s Outboard

in dinner parties. Karen Berner is food

Service in Tiberton, RI. In May 2011,

editor at Reader’s Digest Association’s

she received her bachelor’s in business

Taste of Home magazine. Peter Stone is

management from Johnson & Wales

owner/wine consultant/chef of Toxaway

University. Luke LaBar is business

Wine and Cheese in Lake Toxaway, NC.

insights consultant for Symphony IRI Group in Chicago, IL. Patrick M. Stark

’97

Mehta Gordon is chef/ owner of Sweet Life Cakery in

is executive chef at Sundown at Granada in Dallas, TX.

Kingston, WA. Kristin (Miley) Holloway is chef at Willow Valley Retirement Communities in Willow Street, PA. Mark Krystopa is director of culinary opera-

’00

Michael Henville is executive chef at Oualie Beach Re-

sort in Charlestown, Nevis, West Indies.

tions at Hyatt Hotels Corporation, Select

Carolyn Bond Kern is chef-instructor

Hotel Group in Chicago, IL. David Wie-

for Sur La Table in Boulder, CO. She

derholt is executive chef/partner at The

welcomed daughter Lola in 2011. Chris-

Capitol Grille in New Jersey.

topher Macchia is executive chef at

’98

Sarah “Sadie” Higgins is pastry cook II at the Four

Seasons Resort in Hualalai in Kailua-

’01

Nicholas DiGiovine is a marketing associate for Sysco

Corporation in Philadelphia, PA. Sean

Tia McDonald is director of culinary

Eslinger is executive chef at 900 Wall

operations at the Vetri Foundation in

Restaurant in Bend, OR. Timothy Fet-

Philadelphia, PA, established to help

ter is executive chef for Parkhurst Dining

kids experience the connection between

Services in Pittsburgh, PA. He received

healthy eating and healthy living through

the 2012 Chef of the Year award from the

food, education, and social interaction.

Laurel Highlands Chapter of the ACF.

Gerard Conway is general

Dewayne Vandevander is executive

This honor came on the heels of the birth

manager at the North Hemp-

sous chef at Richmond Country Club in

of his second child, Evan, in August 2011.

Richmond, VA.

Kathleen (Esposito) Long is content

stead Country Club in Port Washington, NY. Bryan Dooley is chef/owner of Bryan’s Black Mountain Barbecue in Cave Creek, AZ.

mise en place no.61, September 2012

opportunities. You can

Kona, HI. She is engaged to be married.

of the Year by the San Diego Chapter of the ACF. Linda Hall is culinary

’96

as well as other scholarship

Florentine in Chicago, IL. Gretchen (Mayer) Lohnes

Michael T. Bull is restaurant

marketing.

executive chef for the Sullivan

Family of Companies in Honolulu, HI. In

cooking (of course!), working in his yard,

’87

Alumni Referral Scholarship Keoni Chang is corporate

John E. Calderon is direc-

and two grandchildren. Ron’s hobbies are

’86

’90

’95

refer is eligible to receive an

manager at Bounty Hunter Rare Wine

’99

Daniel Decesare is chef/ owner of Sammy D’s Cafe in

and Provisions in Napa, CA. Nicholas Ritchie is executive chef for Alex Ital-

33

Hanson is chef/owner of Mona Restaurant & Bar in Minneapolis, MN. Michael Nestrud is director, client insights &

’09

Garret Fleming is executive chef of The Pig restaurant in

Washington, DC. Roger Mason is chef/

sensory science for In4mation Insights in

owner of Basta Restaurant in Ossining,

Needham Heights, MA.

NY. Austin Barry Siegel is food service director for SAGE Dining Services in

’05

Michael Israel is owner of food truck M.O.Eggrolls.

He creates Montreal-style, open-ended eggrolls that are kosher-certified and delicious. Karina (Gordon) Massaro and

samson and sister caroline jean (our B-block baby) ian Restaurant in Rutherford, CA. The

William Dissen is chef/owner of The

location was recently approved as a CIA

Market Place in Asheville, NC. In 2012,

externship site. Laura Simpson is sous

Monterey Bay Aquarium chose him as

chef 1 at the Ritz-Carlton in Philadelphia,

Seafood Watch Ambassador and Fortune

PA.

magazine named him Green Chef of the Year. In addition, William was selected

’02

Alexander Chase is executive chef at Masu Sushi & Ro-

bata in Minneapolis, MN. He spent the summer of 2009 commercial salmon fishing in Kodiak, AK. He is also a certified yoga teacher who enjoys rock climbing, bicycle tours, and travel. Matthew Ifkovitz is sous chef at Flatiron in Red Hook, NY. Bradford Lewis is sous chef/banquet chef at the Bay Harbor Yacht Club in Bay Harbor, MI. Don McClellan, Jr. is executive chef at Cherokee Nation Entertainment in Catoosa, OK. Amar Santana is chef/partner of Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach, CA.

’03

Ore Dagan is sales manager for the New Zealand King

Salmon Company—Western Region of North America. The company raises King Salmon in the pristine waters of the Marlborough Sounds in New Zealand.

to host the annual Fortune Brainstorm GREEN Conference. In 2010, Mother

novative approach to sustainable cuisine.

John Eisensmith is executive chef at

’10

Emery Long is sustainable chef at The Island School

in Cape Eleuthera, Bahamas. Marnely

her husband welcomed their first child,

Rodriguez-Murray is pastry cook at

Dominic James, in December 2011. Todd

Vineyard Gold Club in Edgartown, MA.

Patterson is executive chef for The Surf

Check out her food blog at www.cooking-

City Hotel in Surf City, NJ. He recently

withbooks.blogspot.com.

got engaged. Laura Sawicki is executive pastry chef at La Condes Austin and La Condes Napa Valley. Rick Tran is sous chef at the Four Seasons Hotel in New York City. Previously, he spent five years working at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon,

In Memoriam Eugene Benjamin ’52

also in New York City. Laura M. Wilson

H. Thomas Emery ’55

is assistant sommelier at Per Se in New

Edward Griffin ’56

York City.

Robert E. Kenerson ’57

Nature Network selected him as one of 40 Chefs Under 40, in recognition of his in-

Hartsdale, NY.

’06

Raymond T. Robb ’57 Steven Philipps is pastry chef and kitchen manager at

Ralph A. Gardner ’64

Dolci Café & Bakery in Buffalo, NY. He

George Edward Clark ’66

Six Plates Winebar in Durham, NC. Paul

is also chef/owner of Mercenary Chef

Fucello is sous chef at The Seawane

Catering. Prior to that, he served in the

Jim Heywood ’67

Country Club in Hewlett Harbor, NY. He

military and had deployments in Iraq and

welcomed son Samson in April 2012. You

Afghanistan between 2008 and 2011. He

David Paul Bargmann ’69

might remember his older sister Caroline

also served on the Fort Drum Culinary

Jean (our “B-Block Baby” from mise en

Team and took gold, silver, and three

Frank Anthony Chianese ’70

place #53). Seems Paul is prepping his

bronze medals at ACF events.

kids for culinary careers. (see above)

’04

Amy Agin is a dietitian working for the City of

Edward A. Kerr ’68

Thomas M. Hyll ’70 William S. Mank ’70

’07

Daria Marie Astorino is

Robert M. Potanovich ’71

pastry chef/owner of But-

Ralph H. Pettifer ’72

terfly Orchid Cakes. David E. Bacot is

Donald H. Tietjen ’75

Cincinnati in Cincinnati, OH. Patrick

sous chef for Mon Ami Gabi, a Lettuce

Decker is a self-employed food stylist,

Entertain You property in Bethesda, MD.

Thomas L. Armstrong, Jr. ’78

writer, recipe developer, and video pro-

Keri Levens is wine director for Aquavit

ducer. Brian Flach is chef de cuisine at

Mark Ignatious Frizell ’79

in New York City. David and Denien

Swoon Kitchen Bar in Hudson, NY. Lisa

Sramek are co-owners of Heritage

Joseph P. Hardwick ’79

Bakery Café in Madison, WI. They

Charles P. Garvey ’80

just celebrated their first anniversary.

Madelyn Cutler ’81

Soohyun You is section chef at SPC’s Paris-Croissant in Seoul, South Korea.

Romano Filippi ’81

After graduating, she worked at Pierre

Albert W. Runser II ’83

Gagnaire’s restaurant in Seoul. She is

Jeffrey Scott Ritchey ’84

currently continuing her education at the Graduate School of Tourism at KyungHee University also in Seoul.

Gregory R. Gevurtz ’87 Armand John Ferraro ’88 Paula (Seplavy) Ledney ’97

’08

Paul J. Kearns is campus lead executive chef for

Sodexo in Trumbull, CT.

michael israel ‘05 and his wife, owners of M.O.Eggrolls

Clarence Willmore Cruse ’10 Victor Garcia ’12

If 44,000 Alumni Give $25 We Raise $1,100,000 That’s...

1 New Visitor’s Center (or) 2 Technology or Research Labs (or) 2 New Production Kitchens (or) 4 New Classrooms (or) 733 New Scholarships

Are you a SILENT FAN of the CIA? Well, we need you to MAKE SOME NOISE

www.ciagiving.org | 845-451-1602 *Did you know foundations and lenders pay close attention to the number of alumni who give back to the college? They use alumni participation as one of their criteria when they consider investing in the CIA. So, as you can imagine, every bit of noise helps!

Remember, the CIA is a 501(c)(3) not-for-profit institution, so your donation is fully tax-deductible.

35

The Culinary Institute of America Alumni Relations 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538-1499

LAST CHANCE to Register for Alumni Homecoming 2012 Join us for two days of food, fun, and friends on

Friday and Saturday, Sept. 21–22 Wonderful events are scheduled including: • “Thyme to Mingle” Reception

• Campus Update

• An Elegant Dinner to Remember

• Culinary Science Demonstration

• Dancing and karaoke (back by popular demand!)

• “Down Home-coming” BBQ Lunch

• 2nd Annual 5K “Run for Your Knives”

• Special Reception for ALL New Haven Alumni

• Campus Tours

Call the Alumni Relations Office today at 845-451-1401 or register online at www.ciaalumninetwork.com.

Homecoming

2012

Alumni Relations Admissions Advancement CIA Websites Career Services Registrar Professional Development 845-451-1401 1-800-285-4627 845-905-4275 ciachef.edu 845-451-1275 845-451-1688 1-800-888-7850 ciaalumninetwork.com ciagiving.org ciaprochef.com ciarestaurants.com

General Information 845-452-9600