A.R.E. RETAIL DESIGN COLLECTIVE NEW AND NEW YORK RETAIL
PART ONE NEW IN SOHO
Eyewear – 6 shops opened in a ½ mile radius over the last year in SoHo Warby Parker (also opened in meatpacking) Designed by Partners & Spade 121 Greene St. ‣ ‣
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Inspired by library & reading rooms Rolling ladders and a selection of books from independent presses "Warby Parker" based on characters found in an unpublished Kerouac journal. Green-screen photo booth helps shoppers determine which pairs best suit their face.
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Eye exams are $50 flat and offered seven days a week.
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Skylight at back of store
WARBY PARKER
RETROSUPERFUTURE
Retrosuperfuture 21 Howard St. ‣ ‣
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First ever store of the Italian eyewear brand Exclusive Style to the new store - Novanta, which was inspired by the City herself. The sunglasses are all black, from the frames to the lenses to the packaging.
Mykita 109 Crosby St. ‣
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Features all-white decor (leaving no room for distraction) as you browse Made-in-Germany frames Light ‘show’ pulses around the room behind the display of sunglasses
MYKITA
SCANDINAVIAN RETAIL INVASION
Gudrun Sjoden – ( GOO- drun Frud-EE-en ) 50 Greene St. ‣
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Eco-conscious retail powerhouse from Sweden – merch uses sustainable green fabrics Gudrun is a sculptor from Sweden who has been designing for over 50 years Moderately price Quirky home goods, playful clothing, and festive prints The dressing rooms are compact - hand mirror dangling from a ribbon Decorated in shades of sage and beige, with textiles tacked cheerfully to the walls and flowers appliquéd on the floors
GUDRUN SJODEN FLAGSHIP
Fjällräven (Fee-YALL Raven ) 38 Greene St. ‣ ‣
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3,800-square-foot store 2nd NYC store for the brand. 1st store opened on 262 Mott St. three years ago Name means arctic fox in Swedish, Began in the Fifties when founder decided to build a better backpack.
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Famous for cute, colorful backpacks you see everywhere
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Offering outerwear, accessories, and more to adults and kids.
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Nod to heritage - the space is filled with Swedish details (furniture)
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Walls are green to imitate the Swedish forest,
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Plants that are imported from Sweeden
FJÄLLRÄVEN
Han Kjøbenhavn (slightly silent first H) Hahn Cue-ben-HOWN 27 Prince St. ‣
Menswear company founded in Copenhagen in 2008
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First US store
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Classic, utilitarian styles with streamlined Danish design
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They also do optical and sunglasses, which Madewell has been stocking for the ladies The space is white-walled with accents of blonde wood, and the pops of color come from the clothing and accessories as well as design books and magazines peppered throughout
HAN KJØBENHAVN
CROSBY ST SOHO’S NEW MENWEAR’S DESTINATION
Carson St. Clothiers 63 Crosby St ‣
2,000-square-feet.
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Opened up by two former lawyers (roommates in law school)
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Gutted the white box space to reveal hardwood floors, formerly covered-up windows and evocative brick walls. Their new fixtures and furnishings have all been reclaimed from antique shops and scrapyards. Exposed brick and high ceilings add to the masculine vibe lounge area in the back displays sports on the television while beverages are served to guys waiting to get measured up for a custom suit, or just waiting for a shoe in their size to be retrieved. The store hits every menswear boutique nail on the head: madeto-measure suiting (manufactured domestically), an in-house label (includes pocket squares), interior design heavy on the rustic Americana look (decorative vintage trunks), an apothecary (to get your bespoke shave on at home). Luxe sneakers are also on offer, as well as an in-house line of rumpled basics like oxford shirts and slim-fitting chinos.
CARSON STREET CLOTHIERS
Bonobos Guideshop 35 Crosby St ‣ ‣
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2nd location in the city – 1st is at W.25th & 6th Ave Different from a brick-and-mortar store, the Guideshop is a showroom (doesn’t carry any inventory) where customers are able to come in, try on, place orders, and have their merchandise delivered. Appointments with a fit expert are recommended, and can be made on the brand's website (They call their customer service reps ‘ninjas’.)
BONOBOS GUIDESHOP
Aether (EEE -thur) 13 Crosby St ‣
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Los Angeles-based brand - known for its fashionable and technically advanced performance sportswear designed with clean, modern lines and minimal decorative distractions. First NYC store, previously opened brick & mortar store in SF. NYC is their number-one market on their e-commerce site Industrial feel, with concrete floors and airy ceilings with exposed pipes, all painted gray. The loft-chic look is counterbalanced with framed installations of crisp nature photography and a rear wall constructed of hundreds of logs, rustically stacked 16 feet high. A modular merchandise display system is comprised of 34 custom-made crates in white oak, with laminated interiors that are lit from within to spotlight product. “They’re adult retail Legos,” said West of the easily moveable boxes. Bicycles, motorbikes, kayaks and even a snow mobile are on display
AETHER
SOHO’S NEW WOMEN’S WEAR DESTINATIONS
Just Cavalli 434 W. Broadway ‣ ‣
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5,650-square-foot flagship Store decor references Cavalli's undying love for all things animal print, including glass stairs embedded with python-print fabric, leopard print on diamond-shaped screens behind the windows and animal spots on a diamond-shaped video wall. An unusual sofa and side tables made from layers of fabric from previous collections was designed by Cavalli and anchors the main floor shoe area near the runway collection. The main Just Cavalli collection and pre-collection hang downstairs along with a menswear area and VIP room. The latter is paneled in blackened wood and has a large layered fabric ottoman. Shoes, runway pieces, ready-to-wear, jewelry, watches, and handbags are all available at the flagship.
JUST CAVALLI
Maiyet Designed by Cigue, a Paris-based architecture firm 16 Crosby St. ‣ ‣
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2500 sq feet store - first ever brick-and-mortar boutique The aesthetic is bohemian minimalist, with a focus on clean, white space and chic, craftsy touches that reflect the Maiyet ethos. Glass vitrines showcasing fine jewelry are set in white plaster walls; The dressing room doors are finished with gold trim and covered in cashmere; The south wall is done in custom-fit antique mirrors
MAIYET
Sass and Bide (designed by Australian design firm Akin Creative & Brooklyn Based – GUILD) 480 Broome St. ‣
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2,000 square foot Broome Street space transformed into a whitewashed dreamscape. Exposed the structure's original timber floors and ornate pressed metal ceiling as a nod to its classic SoHo pedigree. At 160 feet long and 14 feet tall, the handmade sculpture (constructed with twisted cloth soaked in resin) bends around the space, touching the floor and ceiling in places, acting as an “organic frame” for the current collection.
SASS & BIDE
Kirna Zabete 477 Broome St. ‣
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After 14 years at Greene St, the multi-brand store moved to a 10,000 square foot location (double the size) and added 27 new designers such as Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, and Mary Katrantzou to their current offerings like Jason Wu, Charlotte Olympia, and Thakoon in order to compete with brands like Net-a-Porter The extra square footage also allows for an expanded footwear section, a comfy lounge area by the fitting rooms, and an 18-foot cash wrap. Funky decorations, including lots of neon signage
KIRNA ZABETE
Alice & Olivia 98 Greene St. ‣
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Alice + Olivia recently closed its Greene Street pop-up shop in favor of a new storefront down the block. The new store feels similar to the other NYC locations (Meatpacking, Upper East Side, Midtown West), in that it's light with high ceilings and no shortage of comfy couches.
ALICE + OLIVIA
Vince 89 Mercer St ‣ ‣
3,050-square-foot flagship with 22-foot-high ceilings The flagship is designed to reflect the more sophisticated and innovative design direction under Doo-Ri Chung, who has been the creative director since January.
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Large skylight shaped like a half moon,
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The soft ambient lighting
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Exposed brick walls
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Antique bronze hang rails
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Lit étagères for footwear and accessories
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Taupe leather ottomans
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Cube fixtures that double as pedestals for mannequins or display cases for folded merchandise African mahogany paneling reclaimed oak floor and an architectural staircase to the men’s mezzanine.
VINCE
IRO 450 Broome St. ‣
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All about the downtown cool girl – effortless, feminine, edgy, wears style with ease Architecture created a blank canvas to layer the brand image – the perfect stage High exposed ceiling, concrete floors, raw elements against modern design (street spirit + luxury)
IRO
Pas de Calais 482 Broome Street ‣ ‣
First international location for the Japanese brand White wires suspended above are intended to evoke a loom, an homage to the brand’s original textiles, and a sculpture made from vintage windows anchors the far end of the shop.
PAS DE CALAIS
LUXURY BRANDS IN SOHO
Balenciaga (Men’s & Women’s) 148 + 149 Mercer St. ‣
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First in a global overhaul of all Balenciaga stores under the creative direction of Alexander Wang The boutique is comprised of intimate salons dedicated readyto-wear, leather goods, shoes, jewelry, eyewear, and fragrances, respectively The traditional Soho façade is protected by landmarks The front door of the women’s boutique lines up directly with the front door of the new men’s shop on the other side of Mercer. Alex wanted to bring a sense of permanence to the space, as if it had been there for decades. It’s a great, big, glamorous place with a skylight, 5,400 square feet of deep green marble, limestone, suede, cracked resin, and poured concrete Shelves are a rich green similar to the marble, but covered in soft suede. The polished limestone-and-marble floor was designed in homage to the historical couture salon
BALENCIAGA
Saint Laurent 80 Greene St. ‣
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4,000-square-foot space - designed by creative director Hedi Slimane, down to the playlist. The classic-meets-futuristic space, all white and marble and sexy, has the look and feel of an open-plan photo studio
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Sleek in design, with vintage furnishings
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Digital monitors displaying Slimane’s campaigns
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Many of the original architectural details are intact, from the tin ceiling to the cast iron columns.
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Bags and shoes line the marble shelves on the walls
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Entirely mirrored, VIP dressing room
SAINT LAURENT
Chloé 93 Greene St. ‣
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The third example of the updated design, following launches in Paris and Shanghai. The SoHo store is divided into three distinct areas: Front handbags, Middle - shoes, accessories and jewelry, Back - fitting rooms and RTW. Italian Paloma marble covers the floors of the first and middle room. Counters are marbleized pink resin and products sit on slabs of Pierre de Café marble. Custom-made brass fixtures look like fancy rolling racks. Three-dimensional wall behind the cash wrap — one of three in the store — is handmade from plaster. Designed with Seventies-era light fixtures, the signature Chloé horse statue (there is one in every brick-and-mortar location), and vintage '20s Bibendum chairs by Eileen Gray.
CHLOE
Proenza Schouler 121 Greene St. ‣ 2,500 square-foot 2-level space. Larger and lighter than the store uptown (an evolution). ‣
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Façade is Landmark protected so they built an antechamber that also houses the window display, with sliding glass doors that forms a facade within a façade. Through this foyer, a sliding glass door opens automatically via sensor for entry into the selling space. Street level – RTW (runway at front) Downstairs - shoes, bags, and leather goods Marble is a central material, installed on walls in right-angled geometric panels, fitting together like Tetris pieces. Floor-to-ceiling gunmetal screen, the signature geometric triangle pattern, stands at the rear of the store. In this iteration, natural light from the glass canopy behind it streams through cutouts in the scrim, casting complex patterns on the refurbished timber floor. Poured concrete staircase behind the metal screen leads to the lower level. The ceiling above the basement space was eliminated, making the subterranean salon feel less like a cellar and more like a soaring atrium, particularly with the angled glass canopy above it. A small rainforest of plants is potted under the skylight, bringing a somewhat wild, untamed element to the store.
PROENZA SCHOULER
Louis Vuitton 116 Green St. ‣
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Expanded into its neighboring storefront with the opening of an atelier. Very first in-store atelier in North America, where a specialized artisan is on hand to personalize the brand's iconic trunks and leather goods with hand painting and hot stamping.
LOUIS VUITTON
Adidas SLVR 108 Wooster St. ‣
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On Wooster Street since 2009, but it's recently been renovated from head-to-toe to reflect the new direction of the brand, helmed by Creative Director Dirk Schönberger. The store's new look includes grey walls with rubber matting, seats covered in sporty mesh fabric, and silver oak floors.
ADIDAS SLVR
Denim & Supply Ralph Lauren Art Wall (NOHO) 99 University Pl ‣
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New initiative that supports collaborations with emerging artists – transforming the façade into a large-scale work of art. As each artist refreshes the canvas, D&S creates a limitededition tee shirt of their work. 100% of the proceeds benefit the School of Visual Arts. On Wooster Street since 2009, but it's recently been renovated from head-to-toe to reflect the new direction of the brand, helmed by Creative Director Dirk Schönberger. The store's new look includes grey walls with rubber matting, seats covered in sporty mesh fabric, and silver oak floors.
DENIM & SUPPLY RALPH LAUREN ART WALL
Also Open: ‣ Joe Fresh, Foscarini, Equipment, Halston Heritage, Opening Ceremony (Men’s reno), Nars, Bite Beauty, Cutler & Gross, Rag & Bone renovation Opening Soon: ‣
Maison Ladurée, 398 W. Broadway; Bonpoint, 298 W. Broadway; Rebecca Minkoff (currently a denim pop-up), 96 Greene St.; Carven
NOHO - Opening Soon: ‣
APC, 49 Bond St; 3.1 Phillip Lim, 48 Great Jones St.
PART TWO NEW IN NOLITA
Wolverine Company Store 254 Elizabeth St. ‣
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Constructed with pieces from the Wolverine archives, including wooden beams from its first-ever tannery. Reclaimed church pew for trying on shoes and a back room for future pop-ups The new brick and mortar location carries more than Wolverine branded products - Tellason Denim, Filson, Tanner Goods, Bklyn Dry Goods, David Hart & Co., Left Field NYC, and Samantha Pleet’s RTW collection
WOLVERINE
Figue (pronounced fig) 268 Elizabeth St. ‣ ‣
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300 square feet Headed by previous VP of design at Tory Burch, Stephanie von Watzdorf Opened a pop-up store in South Hampton this summer Shoppers travel the globe through von Watzdorf's eyes, sifting through alpaca ponchos from Bolivia and handbags handwoven in Colombia. Prices range from a $38 bracelet to $4,500 earrings. The store's signature is their vintage military jackets, which are embellished with beading—done in Bombay. The jackets will be on the racks at Bergdorf Goodman come November
FIGUE
Diptyque 242 Mott St. ‣ ‣
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Brand’s 3rd Manhattan Boutique Featuring the full line of Diptyque products: candles, fragrances, lotions, etc All of the decorations are trying to emulate a modern take on the first Parisian store on Boulevard Saint-Germain. The geometric wallpaper design was inspired by the founders' original intentions of being fabric designers.
DIPTYQUE
Clare Vivier 239 Elizabeth St. ‣ ‣
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“French apothecary architecture mixed with an L.A. vibe.” Shadow boxes line the walls, and a custom center light fixture illuminates the space. 9 foot collage mural by New York-based artist Simone Shubuck the art will be a mixture of personal pieces from both Vivier’s and the artist. Bags can be monogrammed in-store.
CLARE VIVIER
Civilianaire 55 E. Houston St. ‣
1250 square feet
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Denim venture from the The co-founders of Lucky Brand
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Product merchandised from white peg board
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Crafted in East L.A. from raw Japanese selvage and finished with signature gold stitching. Other basics include supersoft sweatshirts, checked and striped work shirts, and utility jackets.
CIVILIANAIRE
PART THREE NEW IN MEATPACKING
Rag & Bone 425 W. 13th St. ‣
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The "General Store" is the first of its kind for the brand, and boasts custom and antique furniture sourced from the 1920s, Jack's Stir Brew Coffee (voted America's top brew!), and curated art The space was once a meat factory, and has been completely "stripped to its core" to include fixtures like vintage industrial lights, leather-top tables, and antique French chairs from the '20s. They decided to keep the factory's original "Dave's Quality Veal" signage.
RAG + BONE
Kilian 804 Washington St. ‣
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French perfumer Kilian Hennessy opened his first boutique in the U.S.'s opening this month. The brand will launch a series of scents inspired by the city The 450-square-foot store will have a "living room feel" Sleek, two-toned black & white interiors, the industrial-meets– Art Deco aesthetic perfectly compliments the Meatpacking District Armchairs by Ed Wormley, 1930s-style, and lamps designed by Peter Lane.
KILIAN
Nicholas Kirkwood 807 Washington Street ‣
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1,500-square-foot space, situated across from the site of the new Whitney Museum of Art A minimal palette & gallery-like setting done in shades of white, gray and taupe so the shoes can be the color Corian-framed entrance that leads into the chevron Versailles parquet floor in white concrete. There are polished Marmorino displays and a large circular skylight that makes use of the natural light from the garden at the rear of the store.
NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD
Owen 809 Washington Street ‣
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Multi-brand men’s & women’s retailer, curated by 25 yr old Phillip Salem Its interior is tunnel-shaped It’s covered completely in paper bags (25,000), the bases attached to the wall, the wide open maws facing the center of the store, for a scaled effect. The concept behind the boutique was to pair designer products with, well, a delectable interior, so he turned to none other than Tacklebox's Jeremy Barbour The outcome is what he calls "modern, structured, and detail oriented, with a subtle flair for the dramatic Joie
OWEN
429 w 14th st (opened Jan 2013) ‣ ‣
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Store feel like entering a chic French pied-à-terre Laid-back vibe, with light-wood floors and cream walls covering in simple molding Antique coffee-table books, fireplaces and plush seating near the dressing rooms
JOIE
PART FOUR NEW IN TRIBECA
Shinola Flagship (designed by Rockwell Group, opened this spring) 177 Franklin St. ‣
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World War II–era shoe-polish brand re-launched with a line of bicycles, watches and leather goods, all handcrafted in Detroit. (Shinola’s New York store opened just a few days after Detroit filed for bankruptcy) Anchored by a spiral staircase and topped with a vaulted skylight, the space is filled floor-to-ceiling with Shinola branded products, special collaborations, and a specially chosen collection of goods from like-minded brands. The front of store features a café and newsstand by downtown spot, The Smile. Behind the cashwrap is a 1930s bronze map sculpture salvaged from a non-disclosed oil company's headquarters in Rockefeller Center A custom steel catwalk was built—used for storing exposed inventory and displaying bikes—and spiral staircase were designed and installed by Greenpoint, Brooklyn-based Total Metal Resources Bikes are available for test rides, provided you sign a waiver.
SHINOLA
Best Made Co. 36 White St. ‣ ‣
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4 years operating online only before moving to Tribeca Purveyors of iconic axes (made in Maine and painted right here in New York) and other woodsmen-haute-craft goods. The narrow entranceway is neatly lined with handpainted tools The store also functions as the brand's headquarters and workshop, which are hidden behind a tall curtain in a lofted space in the back. Sometimes, the curtain is drawn back for workshops (a recent one was about ax restoration)
BEST MADE CO
Steven Alan Home 158 Franklin St. ‣
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The spare, sky-lit space is the first Steven Alan store dedicated to home-related products. Using his daily NYC lifestyle as inspiration, plus a heavy influence from his world travels, Alan hand-selected the wide variety of store stock that includes textiles, plants, ceramics, foods, plus an impressively well-curated selection of furniture and home goods from around the world. Alan describes the store as “organic modern” with a hint of “crunchy,” to be a place that people would drop into regularly to see what was new.
STEVEN ALAN HOME
PART FIVE NEW IN DEPARTMENT STORES
Lord & Taylor(opened 9/13) owned by HBC – also owns Hudson Bay and soon to be Saks / 424 Fifth ave ‣ Two-level, 100,000-square-feet – pushing the store into the CONTEMPORARY market ‣ ‣
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No longer just a womens store with a men’s department DOUBLE the space currently dedicated to MENS—takes over the ninth floor in addition to the 10th 22 brands added to the men’s mix (John Varvatos, G-Star, Rogue State, Vince Camuto DKNY Jeans, Levi’s, Boss Orange, Guess, True Religion, etc. The floor has a loftlike feeling and the windows to the outside have been exposed, allowing natural light to spill in. The open feeling and the metal and wood displays are designed to provide a “comfortable, modern experience" Tripled the number of mannequins to offer inspiration Vendors who received new shops in the update are Polo Ralph Lauren, Nautica, Lacoste, Calvin Klein, Perry Ellis, Kenneth Cole, Buffalo David Bitton, Lucky Brand, Superdry, Bench Penguin and Puma. L&T is also jumping onto the lucrative shoe bandwagon with a new, larger department off the elevators on the 10th floor
LORD & TAYLOR
LORD & TAYLOR
Bergdorf Goodman Men’s (RENOVATION) Joshua Schulman, president visual team, headed by Linda Fargo ‣
Only freestanding men’s luxury store in Manhattan
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For the last two years , they have been investing in the remodeling
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41,500-square-feet store.
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The first revamp since 1990
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Last September, the third-floor contemporary designer department got a facelift and a shoe library was created on the main floor. This fall, renovations included the front of the main floor and the tailored clothing department Customers are accustomed to spending time in five-star hotels and this area was designed to be up to those standards They worked to keep the extraordinary taste level that has defined Bergdorf Goodman but make it more relevant to a younger customer. Sartorial heritage blended to meet the needs of todays modern consumer Embraced their heritage in design and layered on modernistic touches
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Wanted the store to look ‘collected,’ so it’s more personal. It has to be warm and somewhat residential and combine historical references New glowing sunglass presentation/shop, adjacent to new Cucinelli shop In the past, the glasses were kept in cases, but now, most are showcased in “glowing wall” One of the biggest focuses is an area devoted to leather goods – speaks to the way men are dressing now, with all their devices (ipad cases to duffel bags) Special glamorous room devoted to formal wear with vintage and deco touches Completely rebuilt personal shopping and fitting room complex, complete with a VIP area. There is a tailor on premises for immediate work and the fitting rooms feature leather furniture, upholstered walls and carpeting. In January, the first Goyard men’s accessories shop outside Paris will open at the rear of this area. The final phase will include the addition of a bar in the center of the rotunda on the second floor
BERGDORF GOODMAN
Barney’s New York Joshua Schulman, president visual team, headed by Linda Fargo ‣ Men’s 6th floor renovation completed 8/13 ‣
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Avoided Cliché elements in favor of clean, simple and modern so the brands could shine. New home for classic European brands and expanded made-tomeasure department Features mirror-finish stainless steel cases; metal, wood and marble fixtures; intimate seating areas; columns wrapped in leather; limestone floors; cerused oak wood millwork cabinetry, and hand-woven rugs. Lighting has also been enhanced to better showcase the merchandise. When completed, Barneys will have an unprecedented eight-level men’s store Barneys New York has been breaking down the barriers and walls between its men’s and adjacent women’s stores for a more seamless shopping experience Total renovation of cosmetics and fragrance floor – 9000 sq ft
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New floor design features Barneys’ sleek and contemporary signature, while also conveying a feeling of timelessness, through the use of traditional materials like terrazzo tile. One objective of the redesign was to emphasize the Barneys’ persona, instead of a reliance on flashy vendor identification that has been prevalent throughout the industry. “We’ve moved in a direction for the whole store away from shops-in-shop,” he said. “We’re not in the shop-in-shop business in any category and the beauty floor reflects that as well.” “We have really been on a quest to create Barneys’ environment in terms of our own architecture and our own aesthetic,” Lee said. “At the end of the day, what comes out from the design is the products themselves. Ultimately, each brand is also identified by their product, by their packaging, by the colors of their brand and that’s what will come out of the neutral environment.”
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Walls are covered in white French plaster, the design of the display cases is reminiscent of a modern medicine cabinet, white terrazzo tile is used and soft ambient lighting lights the products from below with uplit LED panels Fragrance bar with a sculpted design, custom-made acrylic tester trays and lighting calculated to highlight the shape of the bottles Renovation started in July 2011 in the women’s store and the ground floor of the men’s store — featuring accessories — was completed in June. In addition to the sixth- and ground-floor men’s departments, Barneys has completed the renovation of its men’s and women’s Co-ops on the eighth and seventh floors, respectively, and opened a large new shoe area on the fifth floor.
BARNEYS NEW YORK
Macy’s 34th street ‣
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Adding 100,000 square feet of retail space in its $400 million, four-year renovation The store will reach a total 1.2 million square feet when the upgrade is completed in 2015 Facelift will include sprucing up the store's 111-year-old façade, opening bricked-up windows and laying 47,000 square feet of new marble and adding 300 dressing rooms
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Louis Vuitton has expanded ground floor 3 level shop
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Rem Koolhas designed Coach ISS
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Will bring in new brands La mer, Jo Malone, Longchamps, and Burberry
MACY’S HERALD SQUARE
PART SIX NEW ON FIFTH AVE & MADISON AVE
Alexander McQueen (opened in the former Valentino) 747 Madison Ave ‣ ‣
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3500 square feet. The store design is a combination of fantasy and fashion; a collaboration between creative director Sarah Burton and David Collins Studio. Enter - large bronze door handles, which look like branches with reptilian tails wound around them Inside, there are plaster panels on every wall. The 3-D panels are decorated with flowers, branches, skulls, gargoyles, shells and the shape of the Armadillo shoe from the spring 2010 collection Crown moldings and cornices are made from plaster and embellished with sea creatures, while columns are covered with overlapping plaster feathers — “elements taken straight from the world of McQueen,” Rawlings said. The plaster reliefs were left unfinished and have a chalky look.
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Dove gray, nude, lilac, soft gold and shades of white are the main colors used in the store Solid marble chairs are upholstered in leather. Display furniture features solid bronze animal feet and monster claws. The new McQueen unit is broken into two spaces. The first features scarves, shoes, handbags and small leather accessories. Some women’s ready-to-wear will be displayed in the first room, but the bulk will be in the second room near the men’s area.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Badgley Mischka 24 E 64th St. ‣
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31st ever store in Manhattan , 3,500-square-foot landmarked townhouse featuring all of their collections spread out over 3 floors The designers wanted the store to have a residential feel – actually resembles their home The tone is set at the entrance with a large chandelier dripping with crystals. The floors are reclaimed wood: white and lightly battered, made from barns in Kentucky and Tennessee. The front rooms feature the label’s sportswear division, evening gowns and cocktail dresses. Then there’s the reception room with a wall of accessories that’s accented with carved wood sculptures found at a Bel Air estate sale.
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Furnishings are minimal, mostly black, marble and gold from John Derian with a few antiques, such as an oversize Austrian mirror in the back room, which is devoted to their couture and red-carpet collections. Downstairs is the bridal suite overlooking a garden The designers also took an apartment above the store to dedicate to VIP fittings.
BADGLEY MISCHKA
Kate Spade Townhouse 789 Madison Ave ‣ The flagship marks the company’s first move uptown. ‣
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The 8,000 square foot townhouse features three floors of selling space, a mezzanine on the second floor, and a two-level glass storefront - 20 ft wide and resembling a bow. The flagship highlights all Kate Spade New York products under one roof, such as handbags, ready-to-wear, fashion accessories, small leather goods, tech accessories, jewelry, watches, shoes, legwear, eyewear, beauty, stationery and home.- allowing customers to immerse themselves in the Kate Spade lifestyle Shiny white lacquered walls, marble floors, and their signature squared-off bow accenting everything from door handles to custom tables Framed vintage records from the 1960s line the walls, tacked up alongside Hugo Guinness prints (Creative Director, Deborah Lloyd, has been collecting them for years) Neon sign on the ground floor’s back wall, a rainbow of quintessential New York clichés—”Uptown is the New Downtown,” “Only in Manhattan,” “Let’s Grab Cocktails”—that are anything but in such a cheeky display. Procured a liquor license so customers can sip pink champagne while sitting on a pink satin sofa on the top floor’s private VIP salon.
KATE SPADE
Marie-Hélène de Taillac (Ma-ree Ellehn de Tai-Yeck) 20 East 69th Street ‣ ‣
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270 square foot ‘jewel box’ of a store Third freestanding door and first in the United States, joining units that opened in Tokyo and Paris in 2003 and 2004, respectively. The same wallpaper, a custom-made powder-blue fabric stamped with the brand’s gold logo (de Taillac’s family crest) adorns the walls in the store and the company’s showroom next door. Boudoir-like, but still contemporary — and very French. The inspiration came from two private visits to Versailles — Marie Antoinette’s private chambers, specifically. This translated to wall lamps with rock crystal parrots, mirrors, Madeline Weinrib’s champagne-hued hand-knotted wool carpet and a silver ceiling.
MARIE-HÉLÈNE DE TAILLAC
Anya Hindmarch 795 Madison Ave. ‣ ‣
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British accessories brand - 2,000-square-foot store Has its own full-time British craftsman and embossers to personalize accessories with handwritten messages and drawings Interiors that recall the creative sprawl of an artist’s studio / working area Raw wood floorboards, products displayed on trestle tables, workshop lighting and freestanding cabinets by the Danish designer Piet Hein. Wooden vitrines with brass details throughout the store, reflecting Hindmarch’s ongoing love of old haberdashery shops.
ANYA HINDMARCH
Valentino 746 Madison Ave. ‣
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5,295-square-foot space (in the former home of Loro Piana ) spans four floors and is the company’s first town house setup. A taste of the new design concept, which features custom Venetian terrazzo framing, black-and-white windowpane floors, brass fixtures, molded gypsum curtains and layered mirror walls, has already been installed in Valentino shops in Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue. Each floor is dedicated to a specific collection - handbags on the first floor; daywear on the second; evening on the third, and a special VIP area on the fourth floor. The by-appointment-only VIP suite is made of up three rooms, each decorated in a different color scheme — red, green and blue. The emphasis on VIP underscores that this store is tailored to “the most affluent customer,” It features American walnut floors, lacquered mirror-finish paint, a faux fireplace, custom lighting fixtures and the debut of a custom furniture collection
VALENTINO
Elie Tahari 510 5th Ave ‣
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A temporary store on the ground floor of the building that houses his studio and office. The 5,400-square-foot space is being used as testing grounds for retail concepts, merchandising, and design experimentation. It’s a theater that brings the company’s design and production capabilities alive - including having pattern markers working in the windows, and photo shoots that are visible to passersby. It will serve as a laboratory for all our stores – its fun, organic and alive. The Fifth Avenue shop carries women's ready-to-wear, shoes, bags, and accessories. Menswear has a back corner in the modernist space. The bright, airy space is sheathed in marble walls and pale terrazzo floors, with fixtures and furniture that reflect Tahari’s passion for midcentury design
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Subtle design elements, such as end-cut wood flooring used in the original Coach factory and a chandelier that mimics the light on a traditional coach wagon, provide nods to the company’s history. Once an open, white space, it is now a multi-room floor plan done in soft grays and earth-tone neutrals. Each distinctive space is its own “shopping destination” organized by category Rich wood fixtures and leather accents distinguish the men’s space from the store’s otherwise more feminine aesthetic
ELIE TAHARI
COACH
CAMPER
Camper 5th ave ‣ ‣
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Opened 1/13 Installation by Nendo of floor to ceiling walls covered in white resin shoes “walking on air” The rows of white shoes are punctuated by samples of Camper's latest styles, striking a balance between the conceptual and the contemporary.
CAMPER
Suit Supply 650 Madison Ave ‣
8,000-square-foot store
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Known for selling sharply priced suits with European styling
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The selling space will be on the second floor.
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The lower level will be used for displays and marketing images.
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Store continues to focus primarily on tailored clothing, the sportswear range has been expanded lately
SUIT SUPPLY
H&M ‣
Over 20,000 sq ft
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First dedicated men’s shop
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DJ & virtual runway
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Lots of technology – doesn’t seem to be working
H&M
PART SEVEN NEW IN CHELSEA & FLATIRON
Story 144 10th Ave ‣
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Set in a 2000 square foot store, Story is a retail space with the point of view of a magazine, changes like a gallery, and sells things like a store Founded by Rachel Shechtman, the idea was to create a retail concept that could serve as a matchmaker between brands and consumers, integrating strategies of marketing, merchandising, and business development.New Story is… “Home For the Holidays” Past stories include: Made in America, Design Story, Art Story, His Story, Wellness Story, Making Things Story, Color Story, Love Story, New York Story
STORY
Club Monaco 160 Fifth Ave ‣
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Features the first Manhattan outpost of Toby’s Estate Coffee, a flower shop, and a bookstore with more than 700 titles operated by the Strand, in an effort to establish the store as true lifestyle destination and bring their blog to life. They typically compete against the likes of the Gap and J. Crew, so this is a way for them to differentiate themselves Club Monaco’s specialty Manhattan store will also include a 1920s haberdashery display within the men’s store, a conservatory with a barrel-vaulted ceiling, and decorative hints that draw inspiration from the neighborhood’s past The 20,000-square-foot store, a renovation and expansion of a previous Club Monaco location, is part of a larger strategy to expand the brand. The clothing retailer has been branching into accessories, including a recent partnership with Jane Mayle, the handbag designer. This summer, it produced its first shoe line. It has a mostly white palette, with Venatino marble flooring and Ionic columns on the ground floor. Floor-to-ceiling drapery, vintage furniture and silk rugs adorn the rooms.
CLUB MONACO
PART EIGHT NEW IN THE LOWER EAST SIDE / BOWERY
Patagonia’s Bowery Surf Shop ‣
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Front of the store is dedicated to men’s (non-surf gear as well), center of shop is lined with surfboards arranged by height, and racks hanging with wetsuits. There is an assortment of lifestyle goodds. Back room is dedicated to womenswear Retains the wood floor and exposed brick reminiscent of downtown New York but also reminiscent of a laid-back, no-fuss surfer lifestyle. Housed in the now-defunct CBGB club area Staff are trained surf-experts, shop houses a surfboard repair center for dings and dents, Basement is a huge, open showing space for movies, slide shows, book signings to do with New York/East Coast surf culture
PATAGONIA’S BOWERY SURF SHOP
Sleepy Jones (owned by jack spade of partners and spade) ‣ ‣
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Pop-up at Hole Gallery – open until Dec. 31st “Not quite ready-to-wear”: cotton nightshirts that could also be worn out to dinner Clean white interior accented by primary yellow and blue – early morning atmosphere Shirts are framed on the wall –nod to art gallery space –
SLEEPY JONES
Intermix Bowery ‣
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Painted black with a simple white sign, the storefront doesn't visually shift the streetscape. Everything is covered in wood – floor, ceilings part of the walls More Bowery Influence: Exposed Brick wall, iron-beam rack, warm grey-sued like ottomans, Alternative music (part of the store experience!) : rock music like The XX, The Clash, and Morrissey play at this specific location Retains intermix experience through sleek lines and planes, and open, spacious feel
Also open - Anthropologie
INTERMIX BOWERY
PART NINE NEW IN THE WEST VILLAGE
Flat 128 ‣
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All pieces in the boutique are from the United Kingdom, UK inspired space Interior of the store is full of antique wood dressers, gorgeous felt walls, and crystal pendants that set a backdrop for the oneof-a-kind jewelry and accessories “Cozy” Feel - light blue walls and a vintage-marble fireplace, and is stocked with stationery, jewelry, and leather goods The store only carries three of each piece of jewelry
FLAT 128
Personnel of New York ‣
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Emilio Ramirez (co-owner) oversaw renovation and constructed the shop’s raw pine (birchwood) displays himself – he has a background in retail design Custom lighting from Apparatus Studio Spacious, uncluttered boutique stocked with clothing and goods made largely by the friends of the easygoing couple-come-store owners
PERSONNEL
Kurt Geiger ‣
Sleek design - Paneled mirror walls, trademark “shoe chandelier” front display, glass shelves
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Secret backdoor garden
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First NYC store for ultra-trendy London shoe brand
KURT GEIGER
Jachs ‣
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900 sq. ft store – first foray into retail, considered prototype store Jach’s – began as mens’s shirt brand – expanded into full retail offering and women’s Featuring farmhouse wood floors, custom-crafted wood display tables and antique trunks Country-Casual Americana - wood American Flag display at the back of the store,
JACHS
Jeremy Argyle ‣ ‣
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600 sq ft space Guttman (designer) wanted intimate direct to consumer space in a highly branded retail area (marc Jacobs, ralph lauren, etc. are all in close proximity on Bleecker) For a customer who “knows what he likes and is not interest in traipsing through a mall to search for what they want” Shirts displayed on built-in shelving and racks Sleek, modern lines of wood, black, and, silver accents (different than purple and silver SoHo store)
JEREMY ARGYLE
Marc Jacobs Beauty 385 Bleecker St ‣
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500 sq feet space - (lots of windows, like a showcase - Two walls are windowed most of the way around, with abundant natural light pouring in.) - glossy black and white with marc jacobs' lightgold accents Which was recently transitioned from the brand's collection accessories shop, resembles Sephora with black shelving, pendant lamps, and images large and small of made-up faces. The center of the space is anchored by a large black table topped with mirrors for makeup application. All of the tester accoutrements—cotton pads, spare mascara wands—are at your disposal for easy experimentation, or expert application. Jaklitsch/Gardner Architects created the heavy black granite table, which is the store’s centerpiece and where makeup artists — who have all been trained at Sephora University, the retailer’s educational program — will work on clients.
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Off to the left, Jacobs’ fragrances are presented on a wall display, with a Guy Lefevre-designed vintage table below with an assortment of makeup bags madeof fabrics from Jacobs’ fall ready-to-wear collection. Large close-up of a model’s face fills another part of that wall, and Duffy noted that eventually more product displays could replace it. To the right of the makeup is a large vitrine with Marc Jacobs sunglasses. The product lineup runs the gamut from lip stick ($30) to nail polish ($18), all housed in glossy black packaging “Bleecker Street is my laboratory,” Marc Jacobs president Robert Duffy said with a smile; retail is his baby.
MARC JACOBS BEAUTY
PART TEN WHATS COMING?
WESTFIELD MALL WORLD TRADE CENTER ‣ ‣
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Designed by architect Santiago Calatrava The future Westfield Mall at the World Trade Center calls for roughly 500,000 square feet of retail space, which will once again make it the largest shopping mall in Manhattan. Planning a mix of restaurants, contemporary and luxury brands Although the new mall will only be spread over roughly one half of the original mall’s footprint, the mall will be double-level, whereas the original mall was a single-level mall. Three additional levels will also exist above-grade on the lower floors of Towers 2 and 3, and Tower 4 will house four abovegrade levels.
WESTFIELD WORLD TRADE CENTER
ESSEX CROSSING LOWER EAST SIDE ‣
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Targets the area at the base of the Williamsburg Bridge (on the Manhattan side) that is currently populated by hole-in-the-wall stores and that giant Rainbow outpost Include the requisite retail, restaurant, office space, parks, and apartments, but also boast a movie theatre, an Andy Warhol museum, an urban farm, and a full-blown school. A diverse mix of retail space
ESSEX CROSSING
SUPER PIER WEST CHELSEA ‣
$200 million food and retail complex populated with local creative companies set to include a spa and restaurant by Andre Balazs Properties in the style of German day spas
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A giant opening ceremony built in Incubox shipping containers
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An underwater climbing gym by Brooklyn Boulders
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Still looking for small retail/creative ventures to rent space in shipping containers, 30% of which will have one year leases.
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Two acre rooftop park will connect via footbridge to the highline
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Opening spring 2015
PIER 57 SUPER PIER
PIER 17 SOUTH STREET SEAPORT ‣ ‣
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Tears down existing pier 17 shopping mall Replaces it with a new retail complex with harbor facing public green roof Will have 2 massive 10,000 sq foot food markets One in the tin building in the former fulton fish market for tourist/chef shopping Second one in the Link building that will sell locally sourced food
PIER 17