THE DISH
Cooking From Home
FA L L 2 0 2 0
FALL 2020 Cooking From Home From our must-have kitchen essentials to elevating classic comfort foods, our fall issue makes you forget about dining out and encourages you to cherish the memories created around the kitchen table.
2
Contributors Editor-in-Chief GABRIELLE BRUNS Deputy Editor ABBY FEHLER Illustrator ANYA ARMBRUST Features Editor ABBY FEHLER Photography & Layout Director GABRIELLE BRUNS Marketing Director KRISTEN FOLEY Writers ANNA AVERSA AUTTUM BOWEN GABRIELLE BRUNS SAM BURLAGE CAROLINE CROWLEY ABBY FEHLER KRISTEN FOLEY YANQI LI SOFIA RODRIGUEZ EVA RYAN LILI SARAJIAN GENEVIEVE VAHL
Photographers KATIE BOYCE GABRIELLE BRUNS EUROPA CHRISTOFFEL CAROLINE CROWLEY MAYA FIDZIUKIEWICZ WUD President LILY MILLER WUD Publications Committee Director EVANKA ANNYAPU WUD Publications Committee Advisor ROBIN SCHMOLDT
Publications Committee Missions Statement “Through the publishing of our six student-run journals and magazines, the Publications Com mittee of the Wisconsin Union Directorate provides a creative outlet for UW-Madison students
interested in creating poetry and prose, reporting on music and fashion, or delving into research in science and public policy. We celebrate creativity on campus by providing hands-on experience in publishing, editing, writing, and artmaking.”
Cooking From Home
3
Contents 6 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
8 PUFFED APPLE PANCAKE RECIPE 10 INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT: GOCHUJANG 12 WHAT’S IN SEASON? 14 COOKING THE SEASON
18 AUTUMNAL BREAD WITH CINNAMON APPLESAUCE RECIPE 20 SUSTAINABLE TAKEOUT 23 A FEAST FOR THE EYES 25 NAVIGATING FINE DINING DURING A PANDEMIC 27 COMFORT IN A BOX 28 10 KITCHEN ESSENTIALS TO UNLEASH YOUR INNER CHEF 32 ELEVATING COMFORT FOODS 36 INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT: PUMPKIN 38 RECIPE: PUMPKIN BREAD 40 FINE DINING IN THE DORMS 44 RECIPES FROM OUR HOME KITCHENS 50 IT’S ALL IN THE SAUCE 54 PANTRY PASTAS 61 WUD PUBCOM FEATURE: WHAT A STICKER CAN TEACH YOU 4
When dining out isn’t an option...
Letter from the Editor
6
“During these unprecedented times” A phrase that kicked-off nearly every single email I received from March to September. Disappointments, cancellations, and numerous rejections left me feeling uninspired and confused for the future. For the first time, I wasn’t able to consume myself in my work or meticulously plan out the months ahead, and as a self-proclaimed type-A, I was frustrated when my plans began to fall apart and opportunities to create were limited. I especially struggled to come up with an idea for our fall publication, as our team numbers grew smaller and opportunities for discussions around food and the food industry felt limited. One of my biggest obstacles was restrictions on collaboration. I never realized how much I depended on the creative minds of others during in-person meetings to help produce work that I was proud of and enjoyed; we would laugh, talk about our favorite dishes, and have debates on where you could get the best pizza in Madison (it’s still Pizza Brutta in my humble opinion). We needed something that would provide comfort and a bit of guidance during these “unprecedented times.” That’s when discussions around home cooking began. After scrapping several unattainable ideas, I landed on Cooking From Home; a play on the phrase “working from home” which I’m sure we’re all too familiar with by now. It is a culmination of ways we’re elevating our own dining experiences and indulging in our tiny home kitchens. We offer advice on upgrading your favorite comfort foods, must-have kitchen utensils, and our favorite family recipes for you to cook when dining out isn’t an option. I hesitated creating an edition that centered on staying home because I kept thinking “this will all go back to normal soon, this idea won’t be applicable in a few months,” but I soon realized that I was very wrong. This is our new normal, so we might as well embrace it.
what it is without you. You should all be very proud of yourselves for all of the work you put into this issue and this publication overall. I am continually impressed with the talent we receive every semester, and this one was no exception. Despite a global pandemic, online classes and a tense political climate, you all showed up, offered a smile and wanted to get to work. Abby and I are so grateful for you, and we cannot thank you enough.
I would also like to thank my parents for always encouraging me to do what I love and offer their endless support in all of my (many, many) endeavors. Dad, you are the reason that I love to cook, and I am grateful for all of the things you have taught me about the food industry. You both keep me sane (most of the time) and I could I hope you enjoy our fall publication, Cooking From not ask for better parents. Thank you all for making this Home. Just like our favorite family recipes, it was made happen. with attention, grit, and a lot of love. Bon Appetit! I would like to thank my small, but mighty team for their incredible efforts. You all made my job so enjoyable when life seemed heavy and I appreciate the hard work you put into every page. The Dish would not be Gabrielle Bruns | Editor-in-Chief Cooking From Home
7
Puffed Apple Pancake Recipe by Caroline Crowley
Puffed apple pancake is a delectable breakfast or dessert that works for any occasion. When I was a kid, my parents would make a puffed apple pancake for breakfast every Saturday. I would wake up to the sound of apples being sliced and run to the kitchen, where I helped my parents whisk the batter and snacked on the apple slices that didn’t fit in the pan. As I grew up, we ate less apple pancakes than when I was a kid, but we still made it for dessert when we went to parties. No matter what you serve it for, this dish is delish! I personally recommend it on cold fall or winter mornings, but it’s also perfect to share with friends as a dessert.
If you want to spice up this recipe, you can substitute the apples for other fruits, like peaches or pears. If a cast iron skillet’s worth of food isn’t enough for you, double the recipe and bake it in a 9”x13” pan!
INGREDIENTS: 3 eggs ¾ cup milk ½ cup flour 1½ Tbsp sugar ½ tsp vanilla ¼ tsp salt ¼ tsp cinnamon 4 Tbsp unsalted butter 1 large apple, peeled + thinly sliced Sprinkle of brown sugar Dusting of powdered sugar 1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit. 2. Melt the butter in a cast iron skillet and add your apple slices. 3. Using a hand mixer or a whisk, blend together the eggs, milk, flour, sugar, vanilla, salt, and cinnamon. 4. Pour your batter over the apple slices. 5. Bake for 15 minutes, then thinly sprinkle with brown sugar before cooking it for an extra minute or two until puffed and golden brown. 6. Top with powdered sugar if desired. Serve warm and enjoy!
GOCHUJANG INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT:
Written by Abby Fehler
Spicy, sweet, and a little bit funky; no it’s not the latest Harry Styles song, it’s gochujang! Gochujang has been a staple in Korean households for centuries, but only recently did it become a staple in mine. Made with fermented soybeans, chili powder, glutinous rice, and salt, the paste is used throughout Korean cuisine to help provide the distinctively complex flavors present in dishes such as bibimbap and Korean barbeque. However, in the two months since I walked out of the store my first ever tub of gochujang, I have enjoyed the new and exciting flavors it provides to chicken, noodles, and fried rice as well as more traditional dishes. As someone who stuck to tried and true recipes rather than venturing out into the intimidating world of recipe creation, gochujang helped me easily create my own recipes. Since gochujang delivers the spicy, sweet, and umami flavors in an already perfectly balanced package, I could pare down my ingredient lists significantly. During quarantine and the current COVID situation, I have resorted back to comfort foods on the days when the world feels to be a bit too much. One day in April, I set out to create something I had always loved the idea of making, but had never had the time to before isolation: homemade dumplings. Recipe research, grocery shopping, and many ugly and misshapen (but still delicious) creations later, my mother and I had successfully created about 50 dumplings. It was one of the few days during quarantine when the stress of the world seemed to fade away. So when I decided to spotlight gochujang for this issue, I knew I wanted to tie together the literal warmth and funk of gochujang, to the warmth and happiness I felt creating this memory with my family during quite a funky time. When I first tested this recipe in late September, I was lucky enough to have the help of my roommates, who helped me once again create special memories around the repetitive work of folding dumplings.
10
“I KNEW I WANTED TO TIE TOGETHER THE LITERAL WARMTH AND FUNK OF GOCHUJANG, TO THE WARMTH AND HAPPINESS I FEL CREATING THIS MEMORY WITH MY FAMILY DURING QUITE A FUNKY TIME.”
INGREDIENTS
Gochujang Dumplings
1 lb high-fat beef (75/25) ¼ Cup Gochujang 4 scallions (cut into thin rounds until about one inch before tip) 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoon soy sauce 1 yellow onion finely chopped 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 cup shiitake mushrooms finely diced 1 Package circular dumpling wrappers or egg roll wrappers cut into circles
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Sautee the shiitake mushrooms in olive oil until lightly browned and tender. Press with a paper towel to remove excess oil. 2. Mix beef, gochujang, scallions, pepper, soy sauce, and onion together in a large bowl until ingredients are evenly distributed. 3. Depending on the size of your wrappers, place about a tablespoon of filling into the center of each wrapper. Then use a finger to wet the edge of the wrapper halfway around. 4. Fold the wrapper in half with the filling in the center, and start creating pleats from one direction, ensuring you press the two sides together firmly until the dumpling is sealed. Repeat this process until you run out of filling or wrappers. Recipe makes roughly 40 dumplings. 5. After wrapping the dumplings, they can either be prepared right away or frozen. If freezing, place dumplings well separated on a parchment-lined baking sheet at least overnight to prevent sticking. Once frozen, they can be stored in a bag or reusable container. 6. To prepare the dumplings for serving, preheat about a tablespoon of oil in a pan (for a six dumpling serving). Cook the dumplings in the oil until the bottoms are a beautiful golden brown. Then add about half a cup of water to the pan and cover. Let dumplings steam until wrappers become translucent and the internal temperature reaches 145 degrees. Serve immediately and enjoy! Cooking From Home
11
what’s in season?
12
Take advantage of chicories, sweet potatoes, horseradish, salsify, and winter squash as we enter their peak growing season.
Cooking From Home
13
Cooking the Season Written by Lili Sarajian
Q: What does it mean to “cook the season”? A: Eating seasonally, or “cooking the season,” is most simply described as eating foods that were grown during their natural growing season without the use of additional energy. So, buying strawberries in the middle of winter in Madison would probably not count. However, there are a few complications with this definition. For example, what if I buy strawberries in December that were shipped to Madison from Mexico? In Mexico, November through March is the proper strawberry growing season, so can I consider eating those strawberries “seasonal eating”? Most would answer no, so there must be some element of location or distance involved in the concept of seasonal eating. Well, what if I buy strawberries in June and freeze them to eat in November? Is that considered seasonal eating? Some would argue that preserving food, especially by freezing it, depletes its nutritional value which defeats the purpose of trying to eat only foods grown in their proper season. However, preservation methods like canning, drying or dehydrating, and fermenting are unlikely to have a high impact on nutritional content. Needless to say, this question is not as simple as it first appears. But, don’t let that deter you from reaping the benefits of this style of eating. 14
Q: Why should I care about eating seasonally? A: Proponents of seasonal eating argue that foods grown in-season are tastier, healthier, and cheaper. Essentially, if you eat seasonally you can actually pay less for higher quality goods. How is this possible? Well, take strawberries for example. During strawberry season in the Midwest, late spring into early summer, strawberries will be fresher and more abundant for us Wisconsinites. At the same time, farmers and grocers have to lower their prices in order to increase demand and make sure they sell their large supply. Not only are these foods cheaper and tastier, they are also packed with more nutrients as well. We know this instinctually on some level. Something about buying watermelons in the winter just feels wrong, much like buying squash in the middle of summer. We can tell when produce is at its best based on its size and color. My mom likes to joke that my siblings and I have never had a real avocado because in Hawaii, where she was born and raised, the avocados she used to pick as a kid were twice the size. Well, they were probably twice as nutrient-dense too.
Q: What’s stopping the whole world from eating this way? A: Changing the entire global food system to this healthier, more natural, and (as we will explore later) more sustainable style of eating would be a complex undertaking and not one that is wholly beneficial for all groups of people. First, adopting this system would disrupt international trade and the global economy. While transported produce is not ideal for freshness, taste, nutritional value, or the environment, it is currently a key player in the global economy. Plus, the global adoption of seasonal eating would require local communities to invest more in their agricultural production, putting a strain on the local economy and environment. There are significant social and health implications as well. For one, many Americans do not eat enough vegetables to begin with. If grocery stores limit their selection of produce to only what is in season, this could deter people from eating fruits and vegetables further.
Cooking From Home
15
Similarly, convincing any significant portion of the population to change their eating habits would be incredibly difficult. Many people are unwilling to alter their lifestyles even for their own personal benefit, much less environmental benefits.
Q: Is eating seasonally really more sustainable and environmentally-friendly? A: The very unsatisfactory answer is it depends. This is a multi-faceted, complex issue. Agricultural production is linked to a variety of negative environmental impacts like climate change, biodiversity, soil degradation, pollution, water use, and land use. Seasonal eating is most beneficial for its potential to decrease the greenhouse effect causing climate change. When farmers produce fruits and vegetables outside of their growing season, they need to use extra energy--light and heat--to simulate the correct climate. Seasonal eating would eliminate the need for these extra energy expenditures which is important considering that agricultural production accounts for about 10 percent of U.S. greenhouse gas emissions. However, seasonal eating may actually have negative impacts on the environment given the increase in the amount of land and finite resources that would have to be dedicated to food production. Plus, if communities around the world relied solely on their own local agricultural production, the effects of natural disasters like floods, forest fires, and drought would be even more devastating.
Q: I think I want to give seasonal eating a try. How do I start? A: Even if seasonal eating is cheaper and healthier, that doesn’t mean that it’ll be easy to quit eating strawberries for eight months of the year. My best advice for those trying to cook the season is to keep it simple. Rather than jumping in cold turkey, start by slowly building your awareness of when different foods are in season and assemble a few easy seasonal recipes that you can fall back on. Pick the fruits and vegetables that look the freshest when you’re at the grocery store and find joy in trying new, in-season foods you might not regularly cook with. Visiting a local farmers’ market will also help you discover the beautiful abundance of produce that you can find in each season. Lastly, you could always try growing your own fruits and vegetables. Even if you don’t have a sprawling backyard, you can plant herbs in pots on your windowsill for a bit of added flavor to your next meal, not to mention some cute indoor decorations! Keep in mind that a perfectly seasonal diet made up of only the freshest fruits and vegetables is hardly practical or maintainable. The point is not to feel guilty about eating strawberries in the winter, but rather to eat with greater awareness of what we consume and where it came from, always striving to make delicious and wholesome meals, but accepting when a frozen pizza is what we need at the moment. 16
Cooking From Home
u ce
Au
ith
B r l e a a n d m w u t
Cin
na a mon Apples
Recipe by Auttum Bowen
Fall and baked goods go together like campfires and s’mores, and I have a recipe that is sure to put you in the mood for fall. This autumnal bread is speckled with colors of fall, from green zucchini to orange carrots and deep crimson cranberries. This bread started out as a “kitchen sink” creation on a lazy afternoon when I decided to put my leftover fruits and veggies to good use and make a sweet and tangy quick bread. Over time I’ve added and omitted to this recipe to find what ingredients work best to create a moist, dense loaf with subtle sweet and nutty flavors. What makes this bread even better is pairing it with homemade cinnamon applesauce that takes less than 15 minutes to make. This applesauce can be used in your bread to add moisture and sweetness or top it off once it’s ready for serving to elevate the dish to a whole other level of deliciousness! 18
FOR THE BREAD:
FOR THE CINNAMON APPLESAUCE:
¼ cup melted Brummel & Brown made with Real Yogurt butter ½ cup brown sugar 2 large eggs 1 cup grated zucchini, skin on (squeezed of excess water) 1 cup grated carrot ½ cup cinnamon applesauce ½ cup strawberry yogurt 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 cups all purpose flour 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp baking soda ½ tsp salt 1 tsp cinnamon ½ cup cranberries ½ cup chopped pecans
4 Paula Red apples- peeled and diced (3 ½ cups) ½ tsp cinnamon ½ cup apple juice 1/8 cup packed dark brown sugar
1. In a saucepan, combine apples, cinnamon, and apple juice. 2. Once the apples start to break down, after about 10 minutes, mash the apples until desired consistency (I prefer to leave it chunkier). 3. Stir in the brown sugar. 4. Set aside to cool.
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. 2. In a medium bowl, using an electric mixer on medium speed, combine butter and sugar until combined. 3. Add eggs 1 at a time. 4. Add zucchini carrot, applesauce, yogurt, and vanilla extract. 5. In a small bowl, combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. 6. Using an electric mixer on medium speed slowly incorporate the dry mixture into the wet mixture. 7. Once all is combined, fold in cranberries and pecans. 8. In a standard loaf pan, bake for about 1 hour, or until edges are browned and a toothpick comes out clean.
Cooking From Home
19
Sustainable Takeout Written by Caroline Crowley
During the COVID-19 pandemic, the amount of people ordering takeout has increased dramatically. With the stress and boredom of quarantine, it’s easier and safer for people to order a meal straight to their doorstep. Unfortunately, this increase in takeout has caused an increase in waste, too. Food is often delivered in a plastic bag carrying styrofoam or plastic containers, paper napkins, and plastic cutlery. These single-use items, along with excess packaging, are harming the environment.
WHAT IS THIS WASTE DOING TO HARM OUR ENVIRONMENT? Most plastic takeout containers are made of low-density polyethylene (4 LDPE), a plastic that releases harmful greenhouse gases as it breaks down. Styrofoam also releases greenhouse gases when it is exposed to the sun; both plastic and styrofoam also release high emissions when they are produced. High-density polyethylene (2 HDPE) plastics are better for the environment; they cause fewer emissions and don’t release as many greenhouse gases. Compostable containers are good options if you have access to a composting facility or compost on your own. Otherwise, they have to be thrown in the trash as well, where they will release greenhouse gases in a landfill. These containers may also be made with chemicals that transfer into the soil and can contaminate the groundwater.
comfortable with going out to eat, many restaurants are work ing on sustainable alternatives for their deliveries. Some have switched over from styrofoam or low-density plastic packaging to more environmentally-friendly options. WHAT ARE SOME SUSTAINABLE RESTAURANTS IN MADISON? Lorraine’s Cafe is a restaurant lo cated right by Camp Randall that serves Caribbean-inspired food. Some highlights of their menu are their Southern-fried jerk chicken wings, jerk jackfruit, the Armando’s Especial Sandwich, and the homemade Brazilian limeade. can request that your food is delivered with as minimal pack- They are encouraging diners to dine in, but they use sugarcane aging as possible, without onecontainers when people order totime-use cutlery or condiment go. Their menu states that they packets. are “dedicated to preserving isWhen you order takeout, you can land habitats.”
THE BEST SOLUTION?
REDUCE YOUR WASTE.
use your own silverware and toppings. You can save your leftovers instead of throwing them away, or you could try composting the food you don’t eat. You can also Paper packaging is easier to recy- order from restaurants that are cle and compost, leaving behind making efforts on their own to be less greenhouse gas. Its produc- sustainable. tion takes a lot of water and releases high emissions, and it can’t be recycled if it’s greasy. FortuWHAT ARE RESTAURANTS DOING? nately, greasy paper can still be Madison restaurants are encourcomposted. aging customers to come back to SO, WHAT CAN I DO TO REDUCE MY eat inside or outside of the restaurant while observing social disWASTE? The good news is that you don’t tancing guidelines. This reduces have to stop ordering in. If you the packaging waste while still alwant to reduce your waste, you lowing you to eat safely. For those who are at higher risk or aren’t
Paul’s Pel’meni uses paper packaging for their delicious Russian dumplings. Their menu is small, but everything is good: their meat and potato dumplings pair perfectly with their rye bread. Located just off of State Street, Paul’s Pel’meni is a great sustainable option. Canteen also uses all paper packaging for its scrumptious Mexican cuisine. They serve classic tacos, burritos, and chips with salsa or guacamole, or you can spice things up with a non-traditional meal. Their crispy brussel sprout tacos are surprisingly tasty, and so is their fried cauliflower!
22
a feast for the eyes
Written by Sam Burlage
In college, meals are usually the opposite of “fancy”; they are convenient and quick. Whether it be boxed mac and cheese, ramen or maybe even hot Cheetos, it becomes a kind of sad routine. So how would I suggest you find some class in the foods you eat at school? Or make all of your friends believe you have your life together? Two words: charcuterie boards. They are so easy to prepare even I, an inexperienced college student, have mastered the art. There are a lot of pros to being a charcuterie board connoisseur. For one, it’s delicious - you just can not beat a board full of cheese, crackers, etc. Second, it is humanly impossible to mess up, and that’s coming from someone who usually is put on “music duty” when my roommates are cooking. Lastly, just being in the kitchen can be a complete de-stressor for you and your roommates and a perfect pairing for movie night or like my apartment, Bachelor night. Just grab any cutting board or plate in your possession and get started. The great thing about charcuterie boards is there are no rules. Throw whatever you have on a board, arrange it in an aesthetically pleasing manner, and you are good to go. But for beginners sake, I’ll grant a few suggestions. Typically, charcuterie boards consist of things like meats, cheeses, olives, nuts, fruit, crackers or bread, and even jelly. I have also done some fun, breakfast and pizza themed charcuterie boards. But, we will stick to the basics for now. Again, there are really no rules here but here is my (general) go-to recipe:
Almonds Bruschetta and crackers Cheeses: Goat, Sharp White Cheddar and Gouda Hot pepper jelly (life changing) Meats: Salami, Prosciutto, Sausage Kalamata olives Fruit: Grapes and Apples Cooking From Home
23
Next, we can worry about the placement of each ingredient. This is the real crowd pleaser. Again, like the ingredients, there is really no rule book for this; you arrange in any way you think looks good. I usually like to start with all the meats and crackers, aligning them by starting along the perimeter of the board and moving inward, stacking them on top of eachother which creates a cascading effect. You can fold bruschetta in halves or roll them in order to make them fit and look better on your board. Then, I put small bowls on my board for things like the jelly and olives, so not everything is in piles or uncontained. This gives the board a clean and full look. From there, place all remaining ingredients in individual piles and open spaces. You can continue to cascade ingredients or just spread them out as you please.
Tips for the Best Charcuterie Board Display • Make the board look as full as possible and keep alike colors separated (ex: crackers & bruschetta should be separated) • Smaller ingredients, like nuts and grapes are great for filling empty spaces • Play around with your ingredients until you feel they are as aesthetically pleasing as can be. Now you can stand back and admire the masterpiece you have just created. And of course, show it off to all your friends. You then are free to devour it while you (in my case) watch Clare Crawley break the hearts of grown men on Bachelorette monday. You, my friend, have just made the classiest looking snack ever. Say goodbye to the days of dull snacking!
24
Navigating Fine Dining During a Pandemic Written by Sofia Rodriguez
The restaurant industry has been particularly devastated by Covid-19. Fine dining which was not previously equipped to handle takeout and delivery has been hit especially hard. Many premier restaurants have already shut their doors to the public, including Madison favorites like Graze and Estrellon, who are now only offering delivery and takeout.
terpiece was a bowl of salt lit on fire which we later found out was cooking potatoes that would be the base of a clam chowder they made right in front of us, and we got to go on a field trip to the kitchen involving cocktails made in a vintage cocktail machine. As a finale, we were given a completely edible balloon - and yes, it even floated. The details, creativity, and the theater of fine dining is Although I admire the resilience of these what makes it an experience rather than a restaurants, I cannot help but feel that take- meal. Takeout and drive-thrus simply canout and drive-thrus do not qualify as fine not give you that. dining. When I go out for a meal at a highend destination, I want the whole experience As restrictions begin to ease up in some that makes fine dining so special. These up- parts of the world, many fine-dining restauscale restaurants are struggling to continue rants are opening their doors back up to rethe intimate, creative, and service-oriented sume in-person dining. However with the experience that defines fine dining. on-going damage inflicted by Covid-19 on people around the world, the situation begs I am lucky enough to have eaten at Alinea, the question of whether we can justify the a three-star Michelin restaurant in Chicago. exclusivity and extravagance of fine dining. It was one of the most amazing experiences of my entire life. I was left in awe the entire Rene Redzepi, the famous chef of the time not only by the exquisitely crafted food world-renowned restaurant in Copenhagen, - some of the best I have ever had - but by the Noma, plans to reopen as a no-reservation, fact that I was constantly being surprised. drop-in only wine and burger bar instead of The menu was a crossword puzzle, our cenCooking From Home
25
their usual very costly prepaid multiple-course menu. Rene made this announcement to his supporters on Instagram explaining, “We need to heal, So let’s have a glass and a burger, you’re all invited.” Redzepi is a chef I have admired for a while now, and this decision continued to affirm my respect for him. His choice to open up to the public with a less exclusive style is fitting for the current circumstances.
“UPSCALE RESTAURANTS ARE STRUGGLING TO CONTINUE THE INTIMATE, CREATIVE, AND SERVICE-ORIENTED EXPERIENCE THAT DEFINES FINE DINING.” Redzepi’s drop-in only wine and burger bar is only temporary. I agree with him that we should not say goodbye to fine dining completely. To me, these high-end restaurants are a pinnacle of creativity and innovation that I do not think we should completely forgo. Yet what this pandemic has put into focus for me is that maybe we need to discover more permanent changes to make fine dining more accessible. Alinea was a once in a lifetime experience for me, but what I would like to see is that more people also get to have an experience like I had. Pre-Covid, Redzepi offered a student deal at his restaurant Noma which demonstrates there are ways we can adapt fine dining to make it more accessible without it losing its novelty.
26
I definitely do not have all the answers about how we can make fine dining more available to the public without sacrificing what makes it so special. What I do know is that something we can and should do right now is support the many local restaurants that are struggling. Whether that be the local food trucks on State Street or a more expensive takeout meal from Graze, as a lover of food in its many forms, what matters is we are helping our local restaurants make it through these times. How can you go wrong with a good meal in support of a good cause?
The events which unfolded in the past diners of 107 State compliment the restaurant several months created feelings of confusion, for its quick service and delicious food. On top anger, and sadness. We often turn to friends of their great reviews, they have a streamlined or family for comfort, but sometimes the only takeout ordering option on their website. You thing that can help is a good meal. Unfortu- may also order from this restaurant using denately, quarantine has put many restrictions livery services Grubhub and Eatstreet. 107 on dining, and for some restaurants, dining in State could be a great place to bring the fine is no longer an option. While they cannot pro- dining experience to your own kitchen table! vide a “normal” dining experience, takeout is Continuing down State Street, you can a great substitute. A variety of restaurants in also stop at Ruyi Hand Pulled Noodle for downtown Madison some authentic Chioffer amazing dishes nese cuisine. Near the with takeout options. corner of West Gorham Takeout is a great way Street and State Street, to safely enjoy your Ruyi Hand Pulled Noofavorite meal in the dle offers hand pulled comfort of your own noodles with a variety home while continuof meat and vegetables. ing to support local Comfort The prices range from businesses. Here are eight to thirteen dolin a two restaurants on lars; a cheaper option State Street that have for Madison takeout. great customer reBesides noodles, Ruyi views for you to conHand Pulled Noodle sider for your next offers sides such as egg dining adventure. rolls, pan fried buns, Our first stop and xiao long bao. With is 107 State. Located a 4.6 star rating on on State Street near Google Review and a the capital, 107 State 4.5 star rating on Yelp, is an American styled Ruyi Hand Pulled Noorestaurant. Owner dle has received praise Nathan D. Mergen is for their fresh ingrean experienced chef dients and tasty dishwho worked at many renowned restaurants es. The menu can be easily accessed through in New York such as Becco, and opened the their website, and you can also order delivery first Eataly in the United States. The 107 State from this restaurant on several delivery apps. menu presents a variety of delicious dishes If you’re looking for quality Chinese food on a from starters like the Wedge Salad with Roast- college budget, Ruyi Hand Pulled Noodle is a ed Bacon and Bleu Cheese Dressing to Mez- great place to go. ze Rigatoni with Roasted Bacon Ragu. With Written by Yanqi Li a shining 4.5 star rating on Google Reviews,
Box
Cooking From Home
27
10 Kitchen Essentials to Unleash your Inner Chef
Written by Kristen Foley
The key to unleashing creativity and passion in the kitchen is an arsenal of basic, but high-quality kitchen utensils and tools. The components of a well-run kitchen are practically the same across professional chef’s kitchens all the way to the home cook. With a few basic kitchen utensils and tools, almost all of which are available for $30 or less, you can go from feeling like a cooking novice to a seasoned professional.
1. A Set of Measuring Cups
While measuring cups might seem a little obvious, it is hard to overstate the importance of accuracy in baking and recipe development. The right ratio of salt, fat, acid and heat will do wonders for your dishes. Quit eyeballing your ingredients and make precise measurements; we promise your recipes will thank you.
An excellent alternative to wasteful, single-use paper towels, kitchen clothes serve multiple purposes, like cleaning up messes, removing hot lids and adding personality and freshness to your kitchen.
3. A Glass Quart Measuring Cup
4. A Microplane Grater
With a sizable glass quart measuring cup by your side, you can tackle recipes for soups, ramen, sauces, cakes, you name it with accuracy. If you’re low on dishes, it can also double as a bowl. Versatility: we need more of it in the kitchen.
28
2. A Set of Kitchen Cloths
This tiny tool has the power to dramatically change your dishes with a little extra flair. A microplane grater, usually available for under $20, is ideal for grating hard cheeses, zesting citrus and grating garlic so you don’t have to mince 12 cloves for every savory recipe.
5. A Glass Pyrex Baking Dish
This multifaceted essential is perfect for baking (duh), storage, transporting, serving or any other use you can think of. Good glass bakeware is totally underrated, so get some to replace all the various trays and pans taking up valuable space in your kitchen.
6. A Stainless Steel Skillet
Whether you’re sauteeing veggies, frying up eggs or browning whatever meat was on sale at the grocery store, you can rely on a stainless steel skillet to get the job done every time. The durability and top-notch performance of stainless steel make this tool a kitchen essential. Not to mention, stainless steel is low-maintenance and provides a polished look, even on a college budget.
8. A Cast Iron Skillet
7. A Big Wooden Cutting Board
Now is the time for you to stop being intimidated by the cast iron skillet. It will give whatever you’re roasting, broiling, searing, braising, sauteing, etc. a better flavor, so it’s worth every penny. Whatever you do, just don’t put it in the dishwasher or clean it with soap. We’re serious.
9. A Good Chef’s Knife
10. A Dutch Oven
The durability and reliability of a wooden cutting board make it a tool you can use for years to come. As a bonus, the aesthetically-pleasing, classic look of a wooden cutting board means it can double as a serving platter or even just a piece of your kitchen’s decor.
Bid farewell to those ten tarnished, dull knives floating around your utensil drawer, and replace them with one high-quality chef’s knife. Using a sharp, precise chef’s knife allows you to dice, chop and mince with ease, making cooking smoother and safer.
The dutch oven is truly the holy grail of cookware and an essential for every kitchen. A dutch oven is ideal for crafting fullfledged dishes like pastas, soups, stews and braises, but the possibilities for use are endless. Trust us; the dutch oven is a worthwhile investment.
Cooking From Home
29
Our photographer Katie recommends topping off your banana bread with clotted cream!
Give Your Recipes an Upgrade.
E
a t v i n e l g Written by Abby Fehler
UPGRADED INSTANT RAMEN Ingredients: 1 Tablespoon Miso Paste 1 green onion, sliced into rounds ½ cup sauteed baby bella mushrooms 1 package of your favorite instant ramen 2 pieces of dried seaweed snacks 1 marinated egg sliced in half 32
1. Prepare instant noodles according to package directions. 2. Instead of using the flavor packet, stir miso paste into the noodles and water. 4. Pour noodles and soup into a bowl, and place all other ingredients around the edges of the bowl 5. Enjoy immediately!
As many fine-dining restaurants are closed or only offering takeout, and many people are unable to afford what little upscale options that are still available, now is the perfect time to learn how to bring the fine dining experience home. (On a college student budget of course!) I certainly have a taste for the finer things in life--despite being a penny-pinching college student--so even before COVID I have always enjoyed trying to elevate the dishes I make at home. My two go-to methods of fancification (my made-up word for the process of making cheap food seem expensive) are simply ingredients and time. Investing in a few unique ingredients such as truffle oil, mirin, or miso paste can take your most basic of budget meals to another level of flavor. When I make ramen, adding a tablespoon of miso paste to my water rather than the amalgamation of chemical powders found in the flavor packet gives my 20 cent noodles a delicate taste rather than one that constantly reminds you how broke you are. Adding in some thinly sliced green onions, sauteed mushrooms, and dried seaweed (arranged to perfection, of course) is also an extremely low cost way of making your instant ramen feel more than instant. Slightly upgrading the quality of some of your most basic spices can even make it feel as though your homemade meal could be served at a restaurant for $20. For mac and cheese, I add a generous amount of freshly cracked black pepper to evoke the feeling of eating a delicious bowl of cacio e pepe at a picturesque Italian restaurant rather than mac and cheese in my college apartment. My second method may seem strange, as I have decided to mysteriously just call it ‘time’, but it’s pretty straight-forward. If you want to feel like the comfort food meal you have made is fine-dining quality, literally all you have to do is find ways to spend a bit more time on it. I know that box of Kraft Mac and Cheese is tempting, but I promise you taking the ten minutes to make your own homemade mac and cheese will be SO worth it (roux included--trust me--just because it’s a french technique doesn’t make it unachievable for a student). If you’re thinking right now: “Of course I always make my mac and cheese homemade!! Is this all the advice you have to give?”, don’t worry, it’s not. Tie in your homemade mac and cheese with the ingredients method of fancification and add cracked pepper, or if you are willing to splurge just a tiny bit, get a bottle of truffle oil, and add a little bit of that to your pasta. Nothing will ever make you feel more fancy at home than a bit of truffle oil.
Co
mfort Fo
s od
Cooking From Home
33
When I make ramen, I just have one thing to say: MARINATE YOUR EGGS. You know those beautiful brown jammy eggs you get in your ramen at a restaurant? They are surprisingly easy and cheap to make at home, but just require a bit of patience as they take about three days to reach their full flavor potential.
MARINATED EGGS Ingredients: 3 cloves garlic, minced Âź cup soy sauce 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 2 tablespoons mirin 1 1/3 cup water 1 Tablespoon sugar 1 Tablespoon red pepper flakes (or to taste) 4 eggs
1. Boil eggs for about 6 minutes for a perfect jammy consistency. 2. Submerge eggs in cold water to make them easier to peel. 3. Peel the shells off the eggs. Set aside. 4. Heat all other ingredients in a pot on the stove until boiling. Let boil until slightly reduced and fragrant. Take off the heat and pour into a bowl. 5. Place peeled eggs into the bowl and cover them. Let marinate in the fridge for a minimum of 24 hours, or three days for best results. 6. Include eggs in your ramen and enjoy!
Honestly, the key to creating a fine dining experience at home is pushing the bound-
aries of what food can be. Think of all the ways Michelin Star chefs push boundaries with cooking and bring new life to dishes through unique ingredients time intensive methods--all to reach as close to perfection as possible. Anyone can push boundaries in the kitchen, even if your boundaries are different from those of true professionals. Maybe pushing your boundaries means using ingredients from a cuisine you’re not familiar with, or using a technique that really challenges you. Whatever it is, do it, and once you succeed, I promise it will make that meal taste impeccable.
34
“WHEN I MAKE RAMEN, ADDING A TABLESPOON OF MISO PASTE TO MY WATER RATHER THAN THE AMALGAMATION OF CHEMICAL POWDERS FOUND IN THE FLAVOR PACKET GIVES MY 20 CENT NOODLES A DELICATE TASTE RATHER THAN ONE THAT CONSTANTLY REMINDS YOU HOW BROKE YOU ARE.” -ABBY FEHLER, ELEVATING COMFORT FOODS
Cooking From Home
35
PUMPKIN INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT:
Written by Anna Aversa
When the air turns crisp and the leaves start to fall, everyone aches for something to keep them warm. For me, I immediately crave pumpkin bread slathered with butter and pumpkin spice lattes keep the crisp air a little warmer. Pumpkin is the perfect canvas for a myriad of dishes. Who would have thought that a big orange squash we carve out on halloween could be so delicious? Pumpkin in its original form can be roasted or grilled to become more palatable, but pumpkin purée and canned pumpkin is what really shines. Pumpkin purée is easy to incorporate to recipes both sweet and savory. Recipes that incorporate pumpkin purée in a sweet way flood holiday recipes. I mean, have you ever been to a Thanksgiving celebration where pumpkin pie isn’t the star of the show? But, pumpkin can go far beyond the pie crust. In some ways, I would argue that pumpkin is destined to be the star of savory dishes. Granted, pumpkin is technically a fruit, so I don’t think anyone would put up a fight when I say that pumpkin in its blank state isn’t sweet. Pumpkin makes an amazing base for sauces, and blends well with savory spices such as sage and chili powder - that give pumpkin more depth when added to a dish. Nutritionally, pumpkin is a great source of fiber and works wonders as an egg replacement. I suggest swapping out pumpkin for eggs the next time you make a chocolate cake . And don’t forget roasting the seeds for a yummy snack to use all parts of the pumpkin! Pumpkin is the perfect ingredient to cozy up with, and I urge you to think outside of pumpkin pie this holiday season!
HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN PUMPKIN PURÉE You will need: 4-6 pound pumpkin (a baking pumpkin or pie pumpkin works best) 1. Preheat oven to 400° 2. Cut the pumpkin in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds 3. Place the pumpkin flesh side down on an aluminum foil lined baking sheet 4. Put pumpkin in the oven and roast for 40-60 minutes, until the flesh of the pumpkin pulls away from the skin and is easily pierced with a fork 5. When tender take out the pumpkin from the oven and let cool slightly 6. Scoop the pumpkin flesh into a food processor or blender and blend until smooth You can use the pumpkin purée immediately or refrigerate for a week, or freeze for up to three months!
WAYS TO USE IT! Savory: Pumpkin curry Pumpkin ravioli Pumpkin samosas Pumpkin soup
Sweet: Pumpkin bread Pumpkin cheesecake Pumpkin oatmeal cookies Pumpkin cake
This lovely fool-proof recipe is the perfect pumpkin bread! This recipe makes three loaves and they freeze wonderfully.
pumpkin
3 cups sugar 1 cup vegetable oil 4 eggs ½ tsp. salt 3 1/3 cups flour ½ Tbs. ground allspice 1 Tbs. cinnamon ½ Tbs. ground cloves 2 Tbs. baking soda 2/3 cup water 1 cup pecans (optional) 2 cups canned pumpkin (Libby’s brand is ideal) 38
1. Preheat oven to 350° 2. In a large bowl mix together the sugar, oil, and eggs until smooth 3. In separate bowl mix together the dry ingredients 4. Add water and pumpkin to sugar, oil, and egg mixture 5. Slowly add dry ingredients to wet ingredients until well combined 6. Fill three ungreased loaf pans and bake for one hour
GIVE YOUR PUMPKIN BREAD AN UPGRADE! Crumb Topping
½ cup brown sugar ¾ cup flour 1 tsp. Cinnamon ½ cup cold butter
Cream Cheese Swirl
Mix together dry ingredients. Cut in cold butter with a pastry cutter or hands. Add crumble on to batter before baking.
8 oz. cream cheese softened ½ sugar 1 egg 1 tsp. vanilla extract Cream together cream cheese and sugar. Mix in egg and vanilla extract. Add spoonfuls of mixture onto bread batter and use a knife to swirl.
Chocolate Marble
½ cup flour ¼ cup cocoa powder Separate out three cups of batter. Mix in flour and cocoa powder. Add spoonfuls of chocolate batter onto bread and use a knife to swirl.
bread
Cooking From Home
39
Fine Dining There is something magical about getting dressed up and enjoying a fancy meal. The low lighting, slender glasses, excessive garnish and bold, intricate flavors of the food itself—it all comes together to make the meal an unforgettable experience. It’s too bad we can’t eat like that every day...or can we? Well, no, I won’t lie to you. This is college! Your schedule is horrific, your bank account is approaching single digits, and at some point, the sketchy dining hall sushi doesn’t seem like such a bad idea. But, while you won’t be fine dining every day of the week, there are still ways to bring some of that magic right into your dorm room.
Cooking Great Meals Without Actually Cooking Few are motivated enough to actually cook in the dorms. Your “kitchen” is really just a mini-fridge and the spare microwave from your parents’ basement. And, even though some dorms have communal kitchens, the smell radiating from that fridge is enough to send anyone running. But don’t worry, there are plenty of elegant meals you can make with just a knife and a cutting board, no stove required.
40
in the Dorms Written by Lili Sarajian
CHARCUTERIE BOARDS
Charcuterie boards never cease to make me feel like I’m dining in the Italian countryside, sipping a glass of red wine overlooking a vineyard. Just grab any sort of plate or tray and jam it full of fruit, cheese, cold meats, pickles, olives, crackers, bread, dips and spreads. There are endless delicious combinations to try! My favorite pairings are goat cheese on toasted sourdough bread topped with blackberries and a drizzle of honey, ham and pickle wraps, and green olives stuffed with blue cheese.
ELEVATED TOAST
Pretty much anything served open-faced on a piece of bread is fancy in my book (but maybe I just have low standards). Bruschetta--grilled bread rubbed with garlic and olive oil, topped with diced tomato,onion and basil--is an elegant classic that you can elevate with a balsamic vinaigrette or some mozzarella cheese! Avocado toast is another popular open-faced sandwich that we’re all loving at the moment. My favorite way to make this dish taste like it came right off the menu at L’Etoile (ok, not really) is to add smoked salmon, tomato slices, sprouts, pink salt and black sesame seeds. If you’re sick of avocado toast, try a Mediterranean hummus platter! Just toast some pita bread (or even pop it in the microwave), smother on some hummus and a layer of garlic and herb cheese spread, and then load it up with diced cucumber, feta, tomato, kalamata olives and red onion.
Cooking From Home
41
Try adding apples and walnuts to your salad to balance the acidity of the dressing with a bit of sweetness!
SALADS THAT AREN’T JUST TOMATO AND CUCUMBER
My favorite salad is Caprese salad: a delicious, refreshing combination of tomatoes, basil, mozzarella and balsamic glaze. This salad is super easy to make, and it takes almost no time at all to assemble. Another cold salad option is a nice chickpea salad with chopped celery, pecans, tahini or mustard, mayo, and spices of your choice. And, for a more appealing version of the typical leafy green salad, try arugula with prosciutto, shaved parmesan, walnuts and a nice vinaigrette.
Microwave Magic The microwave tends to feel like the immature younger cousin of the oven and stove, but don’t let that stop you from utilizing it to its full potential.
DESSERT IN A CUP
Is your fine dining experience really complete without a sweet third course? If you’re getting sick of ice cream and dining hall cheesecake, there are plenty of recipes float42
ing around on social media for single-serve, microwaveable dessert mugs. Get creative! Whether it’s strawberry shortcake, tiramisu or chocolate chunk brownies, you’re bound to impress the critics with these cute and simple microwave miracles. Take it up a notch by swapping the mug for a more creative alternative like a martini glass or a decorative teacup and saucer.
FROZEN MEALS AREN’T WHAT THEY USED TO BE
Now, I know that frozen meals usually fall at the other end of the spectrum, far away from the extravagance that can be fine dining. But, when you can’t be bothered to make a proper grocery list, frozen meals aren’t a bad option. In fact, frozen food has come a long way! Before I started college, my knowledge of frozen meals was limited to Kid Cuisine and Marie Callender’s chicken pot pie. I won’t judge your guilty pleasures, but let me tell you, there are better options out there. Trader Joe’s really sucked me in with their Chicken Tikka Masala, and they have a huge range of other frozen meals to choose from. If you put your plating skills to work, you might just be able to pretend that you’re eating over a luxurious white tablecloth instead of your comforter. Cooking From Home
43
mO
Recip es F ro
ur H
ome Kitchens
Bread Dressing for Turkey, Pork & Chicken Ingredients 1 pound loaf Italian bread cut into 1” cubes 2 sticks butter 2 cups onions, thinly sliced 2 cups celery, thinly sliced 1 1/4 cups hot water or stock of choice 2 eggs 1 tsp salt 1 tsp pepper 1 tbsp poultry seasoning 1/4 cup parsley 1 to 2 cups shredded turkey, pork, or chicken
Directions
-Preheat the oven to 400°F. Toast bread in the oven until very dry. -Melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat and fry onions and celery until tender, 5-8 minutes. -Beat eggs in a bowl and add salt, pepper, poultry seasoning, and parsley. -In a large bowl, mix bread, onion and celery mixture, and egg mixture. Add water or stock until the mixture is moist. At this point, you can add shredded meat of choice for more flavor. -Place mixture in a greased baking dish, cover with foil, and bake for 30 minutes at 400°F, remove foil and bake for another 10 minutes or until the top is golden.
“Passed down from my great-grandma to my mother, this stuffing recipe is a year-round staple in my house. Its basic composition takes you back to simpler times, and it’s the perfect side dish to warm up to on a chilly winter evening. This stuffing is a no-nonsense type of dish; sticking to the essentials—bread, onions, and celery, and will have you feeling nostalgic in no time. Whenever I make this dish, I’m sent back to my childhood when I would come home from school, kick off my snowy boots, and inhale the savory aroma of the stuffing filling the kitchen.” -Eva Ryan, Staff Writer
46
“Personally, my favorite way to make these cookies is with my mom, listening to Christmas music. However, feel free to bake these delicious cookies at any time of the year. And remember that if you have a family anything like mine, these cookies will not last long!”
Pecan Delights Ingredients
Crust: 3oz cream cheese 1 cup flour 1 stick butter Filling: ¾ cup brown sugar ½ cups (or more) nuts pecans 1 egg
Directions
-Preheat the oven to 350°. -Prepare the crust: Mix ingredients together and shape into 24 balls. -Spray mini muffin pan with cooking spray, coating evenly. -Work dough around the rim and bottom. Do not lay on top! -Prepare the filling: Mix ingredients together until well combined. -Spoon dough into each pocket of crust and bake 10 minutes or until golden. -Transfer to a wire rack and let cool. -Dust with powdered sugar.
Cooking From Home
47
Toffee Bar Cookies Ingredients 1 package honey graham crackers (40) ½ cup chopped nuts of choice 1 stick unsalted butter ½ cup brown sugar (firmly packed) 5 Hershey’s chocolate bars (1 ½ squares per cookie)
Directions Preheat the oven to 350°. Line graham crackers on an ungreased cookie sheet. Melt butter and brown sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil. Boil for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Pour mixture over graham crackers. Sprinkle nuts on top. Bake for 10 minutes. Immediately place chocolate squares on each cookie. Wait until chocolate melts then swirl chocolate to cover each cookie. Remove cookies to the wire rack to cool.
“These cookies give you the taste of toffee without the hassle of candy making. I highly recommend making them when you’re pinched for time, or just want a quick bake! But most of all, have fun and indulge yourself in these amazing cookies!”
48
Recipes by Eva Ryan
Cooking From Home
It’s All In
A Christmas tradition turned into a family favorite; this sauce recipe has been passed down from generation to generation, and Gabrielle believes it is the pinnacle of a great pasta dish.
the Sauce
The Bruns Family Sauce Recipe
1/2 cup Olive Oil 1 lb. fresh Italian Sausage 1 bulb of Garlic, peeled and minced 2 medium (or 1 large) Yellow Onion, diced 1 Green Bell, diced 6 oz. pack of Mushrooms 1, 6 oz. can of Tomato Paste 2, 28 oz. can of Whole Peeled Tomatoes 2, 16 oz. can of Tomato Sauce 1 qt. Chicken Broth 3 Tbsp. Garlic Powder 1 Tbsp. Onion Powder 3 Tbsp. Italian Seasoning 3 Tbsp. Basil 3 Tbsp. Oregano 2 Bay Leaves, cracked in half 1 Tbsp. Salt 1 tsp. Black Pepper 1 Tbsp. Sugar Heat oil, brown sausage and remove Add onions, pepper, garlic and saute until softened, stirring often Add tomato paste and stir until completely blended Add in remaining ingredients Bring to boil, add sausage back in and lower to simmer for 4-5 hours Stir every 15 to 20 minutes to prevent sticking, burning, etc. Taste and add additional seasonings if needed
Cooking From Home
Pantry Pantry Pantry Pantry Pastas Pastas Pastas Pastas
As long as you have pasta, garlic, and a little bit of oil, you can transform a “doing whatever for dinner� night into a memorable cooking experience. Cooking From Home
55
A Simple Take on Pasta Al Limone INGREDIENTS 1 lb. pasta noodles 2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 garlic cloves, smashed 4 3”-long strips lemon zest 2 lemons, halved Salt and pepper, to taste 2 oz. Parmesan, finely grated (about 1 cup), plus more for serving In a large pot, bring your water to a boil (make sure the water is well-salted!). Once boiling, add your pasta noodles and cook until al dente or to your liking. In a pan, heat the oil. Add in your garlic and sauté for a few minutes until the cloves begin to brown. Add in your lemon zest, and squeeze in your lemon juice. Let simmer for a few seconds to incorporate. Once your noodles have cooked, transfer them into the pot and coat with the lemon dressing. Add in your parmesan and toss until the mixture has coated the pasta evenly. If it is too thick, you can add some pasta water to loosen up the mixture. Transfer to a plate and season with salt and pepper to taste, add the strips of lemon on top for garnish.
Quick Sauce Pasta INGREDIENTS
1/2 cup of extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 6 garlic cloves, smashed 4 pints of cherry tomatoes (about 2 1/2 lbs.) 3/4 tsp. crushed oregano 2 large sprigs of basil, plus 1 cup of basil leaves 1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more for salting the pasta water 12 oz. pasta Cook your pasta as desired. Heat your garlic and oil in a sauté pan, then throw in your cherry tomatoes. Cook the tomatoes until they begin to soften and smash them down (almost like you’re trying to cut them in half with your spoon) You don’t want to smash them completely, only about half.) Throw in your oregano and cook for another minute. Stir in your pasta and turn off the heat. Once the ingredients appear to be well incorporated (note: this is a very loose sauce that will not “come together” like traditional marinara), stir in your basil leaves Cooking From Home
57
Herby Pasta With Roasted Garlic Oil INGREDIENTS Kosher salt 1tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 8 roasted garlic cloves, smashed, ground w/ oil (1/4 cup) 1 1/2 cups finely chopped arugula 1 cup pitted olives (sliced in half) 1/2-1 tbsp dried time (to taste, but somewhere in between) 3 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces 1 cup chopped basil leaves 3-4 tsp. fresh lemon juice (optional) 1 lb. mushrooms (optional) red pepper flakes (to taste) To make the roasted garlic oil: 1. In a pan, heat your oil and throw in your garlic cloves. 2. Cook over medium-high heat for about 10 minutes or until garlic is dark/golden brown 3. Transfer garlic and oil to a food processor or blender, and blend until a smooth mixture has formed. Cook your pasta as you would normally. In a pan, throw in your roasted garlic oil and finely chopped arugula and cook for about a minute. Throw in the rest of your ingredients (order does not matter here, but I would recommend adding in the butter last) Stir in your pasta and enjoy! 58
Cooking From Home
What a Sticker Can Teach You
From the WUD Publications Committee summer issue, Community. Written by Genevieve Vahl A couple of years back, after having claimed the insurance money from the guy that t-boned me running a red light, totalling my car, I got a new car, well new to me: a 2008 Subaru Outback. I was most excited to finally put stickers on it like a glorified Nalgene from places I have gone, the Wisconsin ‘W’ to show some Badger spirit, a configuration of the great lakes as the proud Midwesterner I am. Brands too like Backcountry and REI to show my affection for the outdoors. It’s an indirect way to represent myself, but definitive of my values nonetheless, to the strangers I only catch at a glimpse passing me in the other lane. One time when I was driving westbound to Madison, I was honked at as a driver passed me in the left lane. I thought to myself, I am already going over the speed limit sir, please hold your horses. Until he passed in his red Buick Regal holding up two hands in a ‘W’ in Badger camaraderie. A bond we formed from a sticker driving 75 down the interstate. One sticker in particular I remember purchasing, feeling exceptionally excited for it represented a set of beliefs I held at my core; meaning I believed in deeply. Or so I thought...
own city when your mom comes for a visit on a beautiful July afternoon. We stopped in all of the shops along State Street’s quaint mile long stretch that my college budget otherwise could not afford to even be tempted by. Because we all know those bright yellow cat eye sunglasses will always find a reason to weasel themselves into your ‘budget.’ In one store in particular, a multilevel stand held an assortment of bumper stickers with lefty sayings and witty retorts. Like ‘COEXIST’ in the various religious denominational symbols building out the letters of the word. Or ‘Eat Real Food’ in black sans serif font mounted on a plain white background. Yes! That’s it! That’s the one. As in proper Madisonian fashion, the eat local, eat whole foods rhetoric had influenced my personal relationship with food. No longer was I naive to the ploy of processed, packaged foods that disguised deliciously addictive flavors from chemicals and preservatives. Eating ‘healthy’ is one of my most rigorous priorities. I buy from the perimeter of the store, the fresh foods, limiting myself to only trusted products from the interior packaged foods. I religiously made my meals in the anything but ideal kitchens of the freshman dorms; supported the campus Slow Food chapter. All while trying to minimize single use plastic as much as possible. So yes, ‘Eat Real Food’ rang so true to myself I thought it worthy enough to paste on my car.
I found this sticker in one of the boutique stores on State Street. One of those sweet small businesses with the artisanal Wisconsin paraphernalia: the hand illustrated ‘Wisconsin favorites’ tea towels or the Midwest living t-shirts or the third coast stickers; each store with their own flare of tourist good- This same dedication to eating healthy also led me ies. Even though I had lived in Madison for two to pick up the book “In Defense of Food: an Eater’s years at that point, you become a tourist in your Manifesto,” by Michael Pollan. “Eat food. Not too
Cooking From Home
61
much. Mostly plants,” he opens the book in his introduction. Honestly that was exactly the type of concise, digestible piece of advice I was looking for out of this book. Yes, tell me what I should and should not be eating. Yes, I want to read a manifesto to better my own habits and tendencies in eating. Yet, when I got into the read, the direction was different than my expectation. He spends the entirety of the book talking about how the industrialized food system we have going on here in the US and the resulting western diet are literally the demise of health for the American people. He talks about how we need to make sure we refuse the processed, refined foods the groceries are marketing to us, to eat better, more sustainable food that is not mass produced and doesn’t have all of the added preservatives and chemicals. But what he does not acknowledge to a proportional scale in all of this food system discussion is how this exact industrialization of our food system, the steps away from fresh whole foods into a more expedient system of profiteering, has disproportionately affected low income, often communities of color. He spends the entire book making an incomplete argument. I do not believe you can have a conversation about the food system without talking about the inequalities it reigns on those forcibly victim to it. There is one single line in the entire book, on page 184: “There’s no escaping the fact that better food—whether measured by taste or nutritional quality (which often correspond)—costs more, usually because it has been grown with more care and less intensively. Not everyone can afford to eat high-quality food in America, and that is shameful; however, those of us who can, should. Doing so...” blah blah blah. He goes on and on. But for that point, “Not everyone can afford to eat high-quality food in America, and that is shameful,” is all he’s got on that. Yes, everyone should eat from the farm, everyone should try to grow some of their own food. Sure. But what about those who do not live in areas where that is an accessible expectation? What about those people who do not have access to fresh food because of economic or geographical barriers?
62
Most often low income communities of color are forced into areas called food deserts: areas defined by the US Department of Agriculture as a “low-income area where access to a full-service grocery store is 1 mile away. But Vanessa Koster, a city planning manager, pointed out half a mile is a more reasonable distance to measure, since many residents don’t have access to vehicles.” This leaves these people with processed, refined foods as their only option. Not to mention how much more expensive fresh foods are in comparison to processed foods, adding another barrier to accessibility. The US does not have respect for people’s wages and the essential workers we are now understanding during this COVID-19 pandemic are the backbone of our nation, where their small budgets do not afford them the luxury of fresh foods, rather have to rely on the cheap convenience and quantity just to put food on their families’ plates. Food insecurity in Wisconsin affects a quarter of a million households, 11.6%, making that 12.4% of all people and 20.4% of children. In Dane County specifically, 11.8% of all people and 17.5% of all children are food insecure.
“A BOND WE FORMED FROM A STICKER DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE.” Even further, the rate of food insecurity exceeds one in three for some of the most vulnerable groups, including households that contain a disabled person (37.7%), Hispanic households (34.5%), African-American households (34.6%), single mothers (34.9%) and households below 100% of the federal poverty level (37.3%) across Wisconsin. By comparison, whites in Wisconsin have lower rates of food insecurity than the national average, whereas Hispanic and African-American households have significantly higher rates of food insecurity than their state and national counterparts. Hispanics nationally reach 23.8% whereas in Wisconsin, it is up to 34.5% and for African Americans, nationally, it is 25.5% whereas in Wisconsin it is up to 34.6%, ex
hibiting obvious disparities for those who can least afford another obstacle, especially in our own state. This all consequently results in this poorer health trend that Pollan mentions. When people rely on the processed refined foods our industrialized food system is selling to us, our health is compromised for a slew of reasons he goes much further into than the sociological effects it has on communities. Yes, he mentions how the health of the American people is jeopardized because of this western diet that is failing to provide anything besides monetary gains for corporate giants, but does not mention the communities who are disproportionately facing these health consequences as a result. So I will. In the US, African Americans are 51% more likely to be obese compared to non-Hispanic Whites. In fact, African Americans have the highest rates of obesity than any other racial and ethnic group. So these low income communities, food deserts, communities of color who face systemic barriers to equal wages and opportunity are forced to eat the junk that is actually killing them at higher rates than anywhere else in the world. They have no other option but to buy into a system that cares more about profit than their people. Now COVID-19 enters this conversation. As Pollan argues, the American health has blundered because of this western diet. So with this compromised health right out of the gate, these communities are already at risk of disease, much less when there is a lethal pandemic ravaging the globe.
of the state’s deaths. These disparities show that racism is a public health crisis.” Just another item to add to the endless list of systemic obstacles communities of color face everyday. Of course the people who do not have access to good, clean, fair food that Pollan adamantly preaches about are going to have poorer health than those who do, where they are then subject to even more obstacles to a healthy, equal life. So now “Eat Real Food” is pasted on the back of my car and I am embarrassed. A white girl driving her Subaru Outback says to eat real food as if everyone needs to eat their kale and salmon everyday. It is making a command to do something that often many people cannot. It is a sticker of privilege and access. I bought the sticker thinking ‘we all need to be eating better and refusing processed foods because it is bad for our health and the environment.’ But like Pollan, I was failing to look beyond just the health lens. To recognize the social barriers systemically upheld against communities. How eating real food is a luxury in the United States. I have a much better understanding of the inequities our country flourishes on since I bought that sticker to now put in the work so we all can eat real food.
In a COVID e-newsletter from my Madison Representative Dem. Chris Taylor, she gives the stats of this glaring problem. “Another reminder of the racial inequities that plague our state and nation are the disparities communities of color are experiencing when it comes to the infection and death rate of COVID-19 patients. Black people make up only 6 percent of our state’s population, yet represent 19 percent of the total COVID cases, and 25 percent
Cooking From Home
63
Hungry for more? FEAST YOUR EYES & FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA
FACEBOOK @THEDISHWISCONSIN INSTAGRAM @THEDISHWISCONSIN OUR DINING TABLE THEDISHWISCONSIN.COM