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YOUR INVALUABLE GUIDE TO DUBLIN WITH CITY CENTRE MAP INSIDE

ALWAYS FREE issue 32 may 2014

Africa Day! 19 – 25th May

Hello!

what’s inside

who we are

It’s one of those essential things that makes a holiday experience reach another level. If you don’t know where to go, or what’s on the menu, you will struggle to get the best out of your precious time. That’s why we have compiled The Dublin Tourist Guide, a comprehensive and useful insiders-guide for all things Dublin. As Dublin’s premier tourist guide the aim is to reveal Dublin’s little secrets alongside covering the more well-known landmarks.

With summer on the horizon, carrying with it longer, brighter days, the city feels like it’s beginning to bloom – and with that, cyclemania has descended. This May sees the arrival of the Giro D’Italia, one of the world’s greatest and most flamboyant bicycle races. The first stages of this 105 year old road-race are being hosted here in Ireland before heading to Northern Ireland. With Dublin now rated as the sixth-best city in the world for cycling, perhaps it’s time to take to the road to see the sites of this fair city.

Dublin Bikes is no-brainer for any visitor to the city, while many of the cities bike shops also do rentals.

4 - What to see, what to do Telling you where to go

The Dublin Tourist Guide HKM Media Ltd 60 Merrion Square Dublin 2 01 6870695

Enjoy the ride, Aidan

10 - Where to Drink Traditional landmarks and hidden gems 16- Map 18 - Where to Shop Plenty to choose from 22 - Where to Eat Dublin’s culinary treats 26 - Africa Day Lowdown on one of the best events this summer.

28 - Go West We head to Dingle in Co. Kerry.

30 - Trad The best pubs for ceoil agus craic.

Tweet or Follow us @dubtouristguide

PICK OF THE MONTH __ 33&&445 3" "/ /55 __ 5" "6 63

RHA 184th Annual Taking over the RHA’s entire gallery space, the Academy’s 184th Annual exhibition will bring together some 300-plus artworks, the bulk of which have been selected through open submission process, then supplemented by Academy and invited artists. You’ll spot the work of established artists alongside lesserClassic French cuisine with an Irish known names, working across various media, in this supersize showcase. twist.

Using locally sourced ingredients, RHA, May 27 – August 9

~ Christmas Parties ~

from the best suppliers, our menus cater

Private Room (Groups 20-25) for allAvailable tastes and budgets.

33 Exchequer Street - www.thegreenhen.com - 016707238 26323 ALCHEMY-DUBLIN TOURIST GUIDE 111x165mm.26.04.13_26323 ALCHEMY-DUBLIN T

Editorial Director Peter Christensen 01 6870695 / peter@hkm.ie Managing Editor Aidan Lonergan al@hkm.ie / 085-8519113 Advertising Karl Hofer kh@hkm.ie / 085-8697078 Art Director Lauren Kavanagh 01 6870695 / lauren@hkm.ie Distribution Kamil Zok 01 6870695 / kamil@hkm.ie Group CEO Stefan Hallenius stefan@hkm.ie

Visit Ireland’s Heritage Sites

Casino Marino

Kilmainham Gaol

Arbour Hill

Dublin Castle

Pearse Museum

Grangegorman Military Cemetary

Castetown House

War Memorial Gardens

Botanic Gardens

Visitor Services, The Office of Public Works, Unit 20, Lakeside Retail Park, Claremorris, Co Mayo.

Tel: (01) 647 6000

Full Details: www.heritageireland.ie

For information on the OPW Heritage Card please contact: Tel: (01) 647 6592 email: heritagecard@opw.ie

what to see and do

The Old Jameson Distillery

Christchurch Cathedral

The Old Jameson Distillery is the fount of the real ‘water of life’ in Dublin. An important and fascinating landmark in the history of the city, the old Distillery will give you a chance to put your taste buds to the test and prove you know your whiskey from your scotch. Offering guided tours daily with a choice of bars to sample a Jemmie, lunch is also served from the mezzanine restaurant.

Step back into history with a visit to Christ Church Cathedral, one of the city’s oldest and most loved buildings. It has been at the centre of Dublin life for nearly 1000 years, first established by Norse King, Sitriuc Silkenbeard c. 1030, rebuilt by the Normans. The stunning gothic naves sits on top of its twelfth century crypt, one of Dublin’s oldest structures, which also houses the exhibitions, a must see for visitors with guided tours, belfry tours and a beautiful café and gift shop.

Bow Lane, Smithfield, Dublin 7

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Christ Church Place, Dublin 8 www.christchurchdublin.ie c3

Dublin Bay Cruises

Guinness Storehouse

Dublin Bay Cruises, one of the city’s best and most unique experiences offers you the chance to escape the hustle and bustle of the city, and enjoy a glass of wine on-board with family or friends while cruising on the St Bridget.

Dublin Bay Cruises have two great offers to choose from. Option one is a return trip departing Sir John Rogersons Quay (Ferryman Pub) opposite Convention Centre at 12 noon. Cruising the Liffey, Dublin Port and Dublin Docklands for 75 minutes.

The second option is a one-way trip departing Dun Laoghaire at 10am or St John Rogersons Quay(Ferryman Pub) at 2pm, sailing via Dublin Bay, Dublin Port, Dublin Docklands and the River Liffey. Duration 75 min. For more info on sailing times see www.dublinbaycruises.com

It’s been in St. James Gate since 1759, and potential natural disasters aside, it’ll be there for the rest of eternity. The cheapest lease in town, you’ll smell the country’s alcoholbrewing institution a mile off - you can see the black stuff being born yourself in the tourist-friendly Storehouse.

www.dublinbaycruises.com +353 1 9011757

109 James’s Street, Dublin 8 b4

RESTAURANT

LUNCH

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DUBLIN 4

EARLY BIRD

LUNCH 12-3pm

+353 1 6602367

PRIVATE DINING

DINNER 5pm

what to see and do

Malahide Castle & Gardens

Phoenix Park

This magnificent 12th century castle is set in 260 acres of land and is one of the oldest castles in Ireland. It has been home to the Talbot family for nearly 800 years. Located on Dublin’s North coast just 13KM from the city centre and on the DART line.

Today, friendly guides and a brand new interactive exhibition help you explore its rich history and interior. Visit the Oak Room, Small and Great Drawing Rooms and the Great Hall before heading to the Walled Garden, home to some of the world’s rarest plants. A new gift shop and Avoca foodhall, café and retail store complete this enchanting daytrip.

The Phoenix Park at 707 hectares (1752 acres) is one of the largest enclosed recreational spaces within any European capital city. About 30% of the Phoenix Park is covered by trees, which are mainly broadleaf parkland species such as oak, ash, lime, beech, sycamore and horsechestnut. A more ornamental selection of trees is grown in the various enclosures. A herd of Fallow Deer has lived in the Park since the 1660’s when they were introduced by the Duke of Ormond. The Phoenix Park is a sanctuary for many mammals and birds and a wide range of wildlife habitats are to be found in the park. One such area is the Furry Glen, which is managed as a conservation area. Áras an Uachtaráin, the residence of the President of Ireland dates from 1750 and is located in the centre of the park adjacent to the United States Ambassador’s residence, which was built in 1774. Many other historic buildings and monuments are located in the Park.

Dublin 8

Open daily 9.30am-5pm. Last guided tour of castle 4.30pm.

Book online at www.malahidecastleandgardens.ie or call 01 8169538

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National Botanic Gardens

Chester Beatty Library

The National Botanic Gardens is noted for its fine plant collections holding over 15,000 plant species and cultivars from a variety of habitats from all around the world. Famous for its exquisitely restored and planted glasshouses, notably the Turner Curvilinear Range and the Great Palm House, both recipients of the Europa Nostra award for excellence in conservation architecture. Visitors can enjoy such features as the Herbaceous borders, rose garden, the alpine yard, the pond area, rock garden and arboretum.

The Chester Beatty Library, Dublin is an art museum and library which houses the great collection of manuscripts, miniature paintings, prints, drawings, rare books and some decorative arts assembled by Sir Alfred Chester Beatty (1875-1968). Its rich collections from countries across Asia, the Middle East, North Africa and Europe open a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Chester Beatty Library was named Irish Museum of the year in 2000 and was awarded the title European Museum of the Year in 2002.

Glasnevin, Dublin 9

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Dublin Castle, Dublin 2

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Now open for Kilkenny CafĂŠ BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND DINNER

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70 Camden St & 15 Dawson St 126 Upper Leeson St Dublin 2 01 4759681 Bookings: 087-7939195 www.right-click.ie

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Located in the heart of Dublin, overlooking Trinity College, our Nassau Street flagship store & restaurant opens Mon - Sat at 8.30am. Opens 10am on Sunday with a live Jazz band.

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MURRAYS Nassau St, Dublin ¡ Cork ¡ Galway ¡ Killarney ¡ Trim Cashel ¡ Stillorgan ¡ Swords ¡ Douglas ¡ Shanagarry New Store Opening this October in Whitewater Shopping Centre, Newbridge, Co. Kildare.

www.kilkennyshop.com

Best place to watch live sports in Dublin Wholesome Irish Food Some people say that weDancing are fantastic.

Irish & Trad We think they are right.

Music 7 nights a week Estd: 1908 126 33-34 O'Connell St Upper, Upper Leeson St. Dublin 1 087-793 9195 t: +353 1 8787505

what to see and do

Ethiad Skyline Croke Park

The Ark

Etihad Skyline includes stops at five viewing platforms along Croke Park’s 0.6km rooftop walkway. Each stop gives visitors the opportunity to learn about the highlighted buildings and sites in their line of vision through multi-lingual audio guides. The audio guides include historical information, quirky anecdotes and interviews with key figures working at some of Dublin’s most famous locations Jones’s Road, Dublin 1

The Ark introduces children to the joy, wonder and creativity of the arts, and plays a vital role in raising the standard of culture for children. Here, in a unique building designed specifically for them, children aged two to 12 explore everything from theatre, music and literature to painting, film, dance and more. They discover what it means to be an artist, from respected professional artists.

There’s no better way to nurture hungry young imaginations, or to inspire a lifelong journey through culture.

Eustace Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2

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Little Museum of Dublin

A call to the public for historic articles in 2011 inaugurated the Little Museum of Dublin, which now displays 5,000 artefacts donated by kindly benefactors. Named “Dublin’s best museum experience” by the Irish Times and nominated for the European Museum of the Year, the Little Museum’s focus is 20th Century Dublin city life. General admission is just €7, with discounts for students and seniors, while jobseekers and children go free.

15 Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 (01) 661 1000 www.littlemuseum.ie

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National Museum (Collins Barracks)

Ned Kelly’s Sportsclub

The Hugh Lane Gallery

Collins Barracks is home to the Decorative Arts & History leg of the National Museum. Featuring a wide range of objects, which include weaponry, furniture, silver, ceramics and glassware as well as examples of Folklife and costume in one of Dublin’s most historically important buildings, Collins Barracks is an essential spot for any visit to the city.

Benburb Street, Dublin 7

Ned Kelly’s Sportsclub & Casino is a hidden gem in the heart of Dublin’s city centre. Established in 1976 “Ned’s” as it’s known locally is the place to go if you fancy a game of Snooker or Pool and they are well known for having the best tables in town. If billiards doesn’t float your boat you can always have a game of Table Tennis in their private room or work up a sweat playing Table Football.

If your sports skills aren’t up to scratch you can always try your luck on one of the many Casino games. You never know, you might just hit the jackpot!

43 Upper O’Connell Street 01 8732344

Located in Dublin’s city centre, Dublin City Gallery The Hugh Lane, originally called The Municipal Gallery of Modern Art, houses one of Ireland’s foremost collections of modern and contemporary art. The original collection, donated by the Gallery’s founder Sir Hugh Lane in 1908, has now grown to include over 2000 artworks, ranging from the Impressionist masterpieces of Manet, Monet, Renoir and Degas to works by leading national and international contemporary artists. Also houses the wonderful Francis Bacon Studio - which was transported in its entirely in 1998, from London to the Gallery in Dublin.

Parnell Square North, Dublin 1

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where to drink Buskers Why not come and join the party people in Buskers Bar in the heart of Temple Bar. Buskers has a modern décor and a fantastic atmosphere to match. There is live music every night which includes Traditional Irish & Tribute Bands, so there is something for everyone to enjoy.

Fantastic food is available daily which will certainly cater for all tastes and Buskers boasts an ‘indoor garden’ where you can enjoy speciality cocktails and pitchers.

Buskers is a well renowned Sports Bar, with 13 HD Televisions and 2 Large Screens they show all the major sporting events. Go on, give Buskers a try, it’s a real gem.

13-17 Fleet Street,Dublin 2 01 677 3333 www.buskersbar.com

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Dakota

The Porterhouse

McDaids

Dakota Bar opened in 2000 on Dublin’s South William Street and over the past decade has flourished as a destination. There are many facets to Dakota. During the day it serves fine freshly made food in an oasis of calm in the city centre. At night it transforms to a popular destination for drinks and rendezvous – and at the weekend becomes a great place to party, with late night revellers, cocktails and some damn fine music.

The Porterhouse in Temple Bar opened in 1996 as Dublin’s first microbrewery. Brewing three stouts, three lagers and three ales in the tiny brewery created much demand for the brews and lead to the growth of the craft beer market. The Porterhouse are widely recognised as having pioneered the craft brew scene in Ireland which has led to the opening of several craft breweries around the country. The Porterhouse is proud to announce that their Plain Porter has been awarded the gold medal by the Brewing Industry International Awards in 2012, the second time it has received this prestigious accolade.

16-18 Parliament Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 01 679 8847 porterhousebrewco.com Fb: Porterhouse-Brewing-Company @Porterhousebars

McDaids is, if we’re honest, the kind of place where you’d call yourself lucky if you’ve nabbed a seat early in the night. Its much cosier, shoulder-to-shoulder affair where an unbeatable Guinness is only a quick shuffle away and commenting on overheard banter is de rigeur. The perfect place for whiling a night away righting the world’s wrongs with a few close friends or quiet pint in Brendan Behan’s memory.

8/9 South William St, Dublin 2 0 1 672 7696 dakotabar.ie

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3 Harry Street, Dublin 2 01 679 4395

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where to drink The Odeon Since reopening its doors late 2012, after an extensive renovation, The Odeon Bar has quickly built a reputation for being the go-to venue for evening drinks in the capital. With the promise of good food, good drink and a good time, in delectably decadent surroundings, The Odeon provides the ideal excuse for an after-hours aperitif with the friends, casual cocktails over a weekend catch-up or a quiet glass of vino in the library. Open from 4pm Monday to Saturday.

57 Old Harcourt Street Railway Station, Hartcourt Street, Dublin 2 01 4782088 odeon.ie

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IRISH CRAFT SHOP Est. 1995

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dim Sum Authentic & authenic Chinese dim Sum Cuisine & authenic Chinese Cuisine

in Irish Knitwear, “ We SellSpecialists Traditional Aran Sweaters, Tweeds and Wool Products Wool & Tweed Products” Mention this ad for

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Located on Top Floor of St. Stephens Green Centre

www.donegalshop.ie

the triangle, Ranelagh, d.6.

Top Floor, St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 Phone: 014754621 Website: www.donegalshop.ie

Cocktails Craft Beers Wine Cocktails Craft Beers Wine

10the minstriangle, out of town Beside Ranelagh Ranelagh, Luas Stopd.6.

10 mins out of town 01 4060006 Beside Ranelagh www.mak.ie Luas Stop

01 4060006 www.mak.ie

where to drink O’Sullivan’s Relax and unwind in the intimate atmosphere of one of Dublin’s oldest pubs.

Steeped in history, the beautifully restored interior (it was once a family-owned chemist) will get you in the right mood after a day touring the city.

O’Sullivan’s is the perfect place for ‘craic & ceol’ (fun & music) with live music 7 nights a week and is famous for its sandwiches and fabulous Irish Coffees. The pub has become a top spot for tourists and locals and is a fantastic venue for all live sports events.

10 Westmoreland Street, Dublin 2

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4 Dame Lane

Neary’s

Hogans

This funky venue, known for its edgy attitude, is spread over 2 floors, and is located bang in the middle of Dublin city centre, 2 minute walk from Trinity College. 4 Dame Lane attracts friendly and fun people for cocktails, dancing and events. Friday and Saturday has some of Dublin’s best DJ’s, pumping indie, electro and pop. A great place for drinks, cocktails and music. Open seven-nights-a-week.

There’s a reason that Nearys has remained so consistent over the decades - the formula works. Housed in an elegant slice of Edwardian Dublin with its old-world interior still in pride of place, the early evening buzz in Nearys is a rare sight to behold. With a crowd ranging from theatregoers and thespians from the nearby Gaiety to local suits and Grafton shoppers, Dave and his team of old-school barmen will take care of all your needs.

Hogans could easily be located somewhere in the East Village of Manhattan but to say that would be an injustice to its typically Dublin crowd. The large windows look out onto flower sellers and cycle chic passersby whilst inside remains the home to the laid back people watchers, good time seekers and newspaper readers.

Brunch served 1pm-4pm Sat and Sun. Relax, chill and feast in your own time at this authentic Dublin imbibing emporium situated at the heart of Dublin’s Creative Quarter. Thursday to Saturday nights you can enjoy an eclectic mix of Live DJs till late downstairs at Hogans International Beat Basement.

4 Dame Lane, Dublin 2 0 1 6790291 4damelane.ie

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1 Chatham Street, Dublin 2 01-6778596

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35 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2

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where to drink Mint Bar at The Westin Dublin The Westin Hotel has recently reopened its refurbished Mint Bar. With completely revamped interiors and a redesigned cocktail and food menu, the new Mint Bar evokes the glamour and style of the historic building’s 1920s heyday. Classic leather seating and stylish wooden furnishings complement the original stone walls and unique vaulted ceilings of the former bank, whilst warm lighting helps create a cosy and welcoming atmosphere, while the Onyx bar provides a stunning centrepiece.

To do justice to these striking interiors, The Mint Bar’s renowned team of expert mixologists have developed an innovative and exciting drinks and cocktail menu combining familiar and updated classics with signature creations, while keeping the new food menu simple and seasonal.

The Westin Dublin, College Green, Westmoreland St, Dublin 2

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Grogan’s

Ryan’s Pub

Generator Hostel

Grogan’s Pub has been a mainstay in Dublin since time began. When you walk through the doors you get a sense of being catapulted back to a bygone era when pubs where a place that everybody knew your name. The decor has not changed in almost 40 years, and that’s the way it should be. Do try their legendary toasted sandwiches with a pint of plain and admire all the artwork hanging from the walls which are, by the way, available to buy.

Located at Christchurch, just a stones-throw from the cathedral. Ryans is a traditional Irish pub with live music most nights and probably the best pint of stout this side of the Liffey - maybe that’s because it’s so close to the brewery and has less to travel. They serve traditional pub grub 7 days a week and their coddle is to die for. This a perfect place to unwind after a day walking around sightseeing and the staff are extremely friendly as owner Ken Ryan will greet you with a smile.

Generator hails a return to the proud tradition of innkeeping; providing lodging, food and of course, drinks. A relaxed venue where you can enjoy a selection of craft beers, the trusted classics or something more suited to a backpacker’s budget. Expect to meet guests from all over the world as they stop over in the fair city. It provides a perfect opportunity to practice your rusty Spanish, Portuguese, Italian or German. Situated in the ever-present yet up and coming Smithfield Square, right on the Luas tracks, Generator is a refreshingly different interface beween Dublin and her visitors.

Smithfield Square, Dublin 7 01 901 0222 www.generatorhostels.com/Dublin-Hostel

15 Sth William St, Dublin 2

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13 High Street, Christchurch, Dublin 8 01 6753671

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MURRAYS Best place to watch live sports in Dublin Wholesome Irish Food MURRAYS Traditional Irish Dancing & Trad Music 7 nights a week Irish Pub, Est. 1908 Estd: 1908

Traditional Irish Pub 33-34 O'Connell St Upper,

Dublin 1 Food Great Wholesome Irish

t: +353 1 8787505

Irish Music and Dancing 7 Nights

THE LIVING ROOM The Best Place in Dublin to Watch Live Televised Sports Great Selection of Beers Tasty Pub Grub Heated Beer Garden

Great Atmosphere and Famous Welcome

33-34 O’Connell Street Upper, Dublin 1 www.murraysbar.eu

Cathal Brugha St, Dublin 1 (Just off O’Connell St) www.thelivingroom.ie

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TAKE HOME A LITTLE PIECE OF IRELAND!

25 Lower Lesson street / 13 Lord Edward street, Dublin 2

Minature paintings at minature prices!

THE POINT

Original framed watercolour paintings by Irish artist Pervaneh Matthews, brought to you exclusively from Balla Bán Art Gallery. sticker2.pdf

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Westbury Mall (1 minute from Bewley’s on Grafton St), Dublin 2. www.ballaban.net 087 6622234

InspIrIng musIc InspIrIng musIc InspIrIng InspIrIng musIc Mccullough Pigott, housing Joe Lynch Musical

Mccullough Pigott, housing Joe Lynch Musical Instruments and the Musicroom sheet music Mccullough Pigott, housing Joe Musical Instruments and Musicroom sheet music Mccullough Pigott, housing JoeLynch Lynch Musical department, isthe Ireland’s premier music store.

Instruments the premier sheet music store. department, is Ireland’s Instrumentsand and theMusicroom Musicroom sheet music music department, isismusic, Ireland’s premier store. department, Ireland’s premiermusic music store.

With sheet instruments, songbooks, With sheet music, instruments, songbooks, accessories, teaching resources, passion, experience, accessories, teaching resources, passion, experience, With sheet instruments, songbooks, With sheetmusic, music, instruments, songbooks, advice and competitive prices, we have everything advice and competitive prices, we have everything accessories, teaching passion, experience, accessories, teachingresources, resources, passion, experience, to inspire the next generation of leading musicians. to inspire the next generation of leading musicians. advice and advice andcompetitive competitiveprices, prices,we we have have everything everything toto inspire inspirethe thenext nextgeneration generationof ofleading leading musicians. musicians.

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FOR ALL YOUR BACK TO SCHOOL NEEDS R.I.A.M/LEAVING CERT. MUSIC/VIOLINS FROM €99/MUSIC STANDS FROM €9.99/BRASS & WOODWIND/KEYBOARDS & DIGITAL PIANOS AND MUCH MORE

Musicroom at Mccullough Pigott Street, Dublin 2 11 South William Musicroom at Mccullough Pigott (01) 677 3138 Musicroom at Mccullough Pigott 11 South William Street, Dublin 2 Musicroom at Mccullough Pigott dublin@musicroom.com (01) 677 3138 South William Street, Dublin 1111 South William Street, Dublin 2 2 dublin@musicroom.com (01) 3138 (01) 677677 3138 dublin@musicroom.com dublin@musicroom.com

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where to shop

Brown Thomas A landmark on Grafton Street with its highly creative window displays, Brown Thomas is home to an unparalleled range of designer brands – in menswear, womenswear, accessories, beauty and homewares. The luxury retailer located at the heart of the capital’s premier shopping district hosts a range of international and indigenous brands within its opulent surroundings, guaranteed to satisfy your inner fashionista. Have a wander round The Luxury Hall for that special gift or enjoy a coffee and relax in the comfort of Domini and Peaches Kemp at The Restaurant.

88-95 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland t. +353 (0)1 605 6666 www.brownthomas.com

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Powerscourt Centre Situated in an elegant Georgian townhouse just yards from Grafton Street, the Powerscourt Centre offers a very different type of environment for shoppers, given it’s resplendent neo-classical style and old world feel.

Inside there are fashion boutiques such as All Saints, 2nd Skin and Covet while the Pygmalion Café and the Lost Society offer shoppers a chance to take the load of their feet and relax over a coffee or glass of wine. Open 10-6 during the week and until 8 on Thursdays.

59 South William Street, Dublin 2 t: 01-6794144

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Phil Lynott by Colm Henry

Doheny & Nesbitt’s by Patrick Donald

Patrick Donald Photography Gallery This unique Black and White Photography Gallery is a treasure trove of stunning landscape images from all over Ireland, as well as many streetscapes of Dublin and its vibrant Pub life. The Gallery is centrally located not far from Bewley’s on Grafton Street in Dublin, and is well worth a visit to find a perfect gift for a loved one or an ideal memory of Ireland. In this ‘The Year of The Gathering’ they are offering three for the price of two for all unframed images which can be shipped for your convenience from the gallery. Or just go along to view this impressive collection. Open from 10 to 6pm daily.

Project 51

Cocoa Atelier

Although offering the facade of a boutique, Project 51 is, above anything else, a creative space for Irish designers. Upstairs is a designing loft, where you might find an upcoming Irish designer sketching away at their latest work. In the main shop, the stunning bespoke pieces are suspended from the ceiling with wire, giving the store an industrial yet modern feel. Project 51 concentrates solely on Irish fashion, with store assistants who know their stuff. Prices range on the more expensive end of the scale, but if you are shopping for a special occasion then this is the place to go.

Stepping into Drury Street’s Cocoa Atelier is like slipping into a melted chocolate dream. One in which brightly coloured and indulgently delicious macaroons embrace, and hot chocolate pastes drench the senses. Whether it’s yourself or another on the receiving end of the spoiling, there’s no better way than Cocoa Atelier!

South William Street, Dublin 2

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30 Drury Street, Dublin 2

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8/9 Royal Hibernian Way, Dawson St, Dublin 2 T: 016815225 www.blackandwhiteireland.com www.facebook.com/ IrishPhotographs

Trinity College by Patrick Donald

Susan Hunter Susan Hunter Lingerie is a small shop with a big welcome. Offering a full fitting Bra service, sizes 30” to 42”, A to I cup. Susan Hunter Lingerie is old fashioned in a 21st century way offering personal service with personal care. Some of the high quality labels carried include La Perla, Aubade, La Maison Lejaby, Prima Donna, Marie Jo, Hanro, Celestine and Rapture (an Irish designer specialising in pure silk).

13 Westbury Mall, (beside the Westbury Hotel), just off Grafton Street, Dublin 2.

Tel/Fax 679 1271. susanhunterlingerie@gmail.com www.susanhunter.ie

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The AnTique & VinTAge Jewellery STore

where to shop

18 ST. ANDREW ST, DUBLIN (Opp Dublin Tourism Office)

Tel: 01 6790759. Open 9 till 6.30 weekdays. Thursday til 9. Sunday 12-6

Rhinestones

Rhinestones.indd 2

Miriam Haskell Neckpiece circa 1930

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre

Rhinestones is home to a century of amazing costume jewellery, Antique to Modern reflecting Art, Fashion, History and Romance. Walk through our door and you will experience a treasure trove of moments captured in time. From Early Victorian brooches to romantic Edwardian keepsake lockets, a great range of new pearl jewellery and European and American designer jewellery from the 1930s, such as Miriam Haskell, Trifari and Dior, are also among our stunning collection. There is so much to explore here at Rhinestones... find us on Suffolk Street and enjoy our fabulous diverse selection. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am - 6.30pm, Thu until 9pm, Sat until 6pm, Sun 12pm - 6pm.

At the foot of Grafton Street lies the Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, one of the most popular shopping centres in the city centre that is also handily serviced by both the Luas green line and a huge variety of buses to the city centre. The centre was developed from the old Dandelion Market in the mid 80s into the familiar façade we know today, along with a host of independent Irish shops and eateries. A perfect meeting spot for a day rambling in the city centre.

St. Stephen’s Green West, Dublin 2 T: 01-4780888

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18 Andrews Street, Dublin 2 t: 01-6790759

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Rhinestones is home to a century of amazing costume jewellery, antique to modern reflecting art, fashion, history and romance. Walk through our door and you will experience a treasure trove of moments captured in time. From Early Victorian brooches, to romantic Edwardian keepsake lockets, to exquisite Venetian glass beads, to one-off 1960’s studio silver creations. Selected Arts and Crafts items. European and American designer jewellery from the 1930s such as Miriam Haskell, Trifari, Dior. etc. We also have a great range of new cultured pearl jewellery.

18 Andrew Street dublin | tel: 01 679 0759 Open 9.30 to 6.30 Weekdays. Open late on Thursdays. Sundays and bank holidays open 12 to 6 pm

Celtic Whiskey Shop

The Kilkenny Shop

Think you know your scotch from your sour mash from your single grain? The Celtic Whiskey shop has a practically complete selection of whiskey brands from Ireland, Scotland and all around the world. Nestled in the heart of the city, the Celtic Whiskey Shop is a connoiseur’s paradise and indeed has become a mecca for whiskey lovers in Ireland and for visitors looking to take a slice of Ireland away with them. The staff have an encyclopaedic knowledge of whiskey and visitors will be invited to taste different whiskeys each day. The shop also provides a bumper selection of international spirits and liquers, and the sister shop next door specializes in wine.

Complete your trip to the capital with a visit to the flagship Kilkenny Shop on Nassau St, Dublin 2, home to Ireland’s largest collection of Irish designers. Overlooking Trinity College, discover the finest in authentic Irish craft and design in the heart of the city with the ultimate shopping experience at the Kilkenny Shop – from the stunning Waterford Crystal room to handcrafted pottery and homeware displays. Complete the Kilkenny experience by giving your taste buds a treat upstairs in the fabulous Kilkenny Café. Serving top class Irish artisan dishes and desserts, all made fresh daily by Kilkenny’s chefs, the Kilkenny Café also provides daily specials, table service, Afternoon Treats and special Thursday Supper Clubs (from 5pm) and Jazz Sunday events, where you can enjoy a main course + wine for only €14.95 complete with live music throughout! Avail of Kilkenny’s ‘Tax Free Shopping’ and worldwide shipping service, offering the best value shipping rates in Dublin at only €29.95 per delivery to anywhere in the US or Europe. And when you return home, continue to nurture your love of Irish craft and design with Kilkenny’s online store, www.kilkennyshop.com www.kilkennyshop.com Kilkenny’s flagship store: Nassau St, Dublin 2

27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2

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NEWS, REVIEWS, LISTINGS, MUSIC, ART, PHOTOGRAPHY, FASHION, STREET STYLE, EATING OUT, EATING IN, NIGHTLIFE, DAYLIFE, HETERO AND GAYLIFE, FILM, THEATRE, PARKS, SHOPS, PUBS, CLUBS AND HAPPY DUBS, WHAT’S ON, WHAT’S GOOD, WHAT ARE YOU UP TO?

TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE

Kilkenny Café

Quality knitwear from Ireland

Fisherman.indd 1

24/02/2014 13:25

KiKilkenny Shop & Café - Dublin Premium Fashion, Craft, Crystal & Food in the Heart of Dublin

Located in the heart of Dublin, overlooking Trinity College, our Nassau Street flagship store & award winning restaurant opens Mon - Sat at 8.30am. (10am on Sunday’s) Thursday Supper Club with live music from 5pm Sunday Jazz with live music from 10am Unlimited Shipping Promotion only €29.95 Tax Free Shopping · Free Gift Wrapping

Tune into the Totally Dublin Radio Show, Saturday morning 9-11am on TXFM, 105.2 FM

Kilkenny Shop, 6-15 Nassau St. Dublin 2

www.kilkennyshop.com

where to eat

Kinara Kitchen

The Restaurant at The Schoolhouse Hotel

ely wine bar

Kinara Kitchen specialises in Pakistani and Eastern cuisine. They are recent winners of Best Ethnic Restaurant 2012 National Hospitality Awards, offering great value lunch with ethnic naan wraps and thali style meals.

Kinara is open 7 days a week from 12-11pm and offers an early bird deal from Monday to Thursday 4-8pm of €19.95 for a three course dinner. Also, their awardwinning bar manager Paul Lambert will introduce you to a varied and cool selection of drinks and cocktails!

The Restaurant at The Schoolhouse Hotel is one of Dublin’s best-kept secrets. The brilliant location and wonderful architecture and character make this a perfect setting for diners to relax and enjoy the surroundings.

Head Chef Francois Grelet and his team make wonderful, simple food at a great price. The current offer is for 2 courses at €22.50, and 3 courses at €24.95 – including a complementary after dinner drink of choice in the School House Bar. Open 7 days a week 5-10pm, with brunch available on weekends.

In the heart of Georgian Dublin, a stone’s throw from Stephen’s Green, is where the ely wine bar is found.

First-born in the ely family chain – older brother to the Gastro Bar and the Brasserie – the wine bar houses over 400 wines, available in bottle or glass. But ely place tremendous importance on food too, with meat sourced from their own farm in Co. Clare, and seasonal fruit and vegetables grown “less than an hour up the road”. Now offering new Saturday Lunch Menu between 12 and 4pm.

17 Ranelagh Village, Dublin 6 @kinarakitchen t: 01-4060066 kinarakitchen.ie

2-6 Northumberland Road D4 01 6675014 reservations@schoolhousehotel.com

Home of the Silver Bullet Burrito, Dublin’s original burrito establishment now has three locations in Dublin and one in Newbridge, Co. Kildare. The meats are marinated in their own Adobo marinades for at least 48 hours, the salsas are all cooked in house each day and their pork is slow cooked for 3-4 hours to make their very special carnitas. The ethos: fresh food, fast.

2 Wexford Street, D2 / 28 South Anne Street, D2 / 7 Mayor Street, IFSC, D1 01-4254020 / 01-6139038 / 01-6116940 @burritosblues

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Burritos & Blues

22 Ely Place, Dublin 2 (01) 676 8986.

Bay Clontarf

The Pieman Café

Indie Dhaba

Bay believe that healthy lifestyle anchors wellbeing, boosts energy & vitality. Their philosophy is to create seasonal, daily delivered fresh & affordable cuisine.

Their menu design is intended to offer an experience so you can have a healthy guide that caters for all dietary needs & conscious eating, while still maintaining full flavored dishes. There are discounts of 20% available when you use Voucher Cloud, free to download on iPhone and Android.

While not as ubiquitous as the burrito bar, Dublin has seen several pie shops pop up, none prospering quite like The Pieman Café. Similar to the sandwich, pies are empty vessels capable of housing all sorts of food combinations, like chicken, mushroom and Jameson, or pork, apple and Dijon. They’re restricted only by imagination, and here the Pieman shows plenty of panache. Orders are accompanied by mashed potato and mushy peas, but if you’ve no proclivity for pies, try the gourmet sandwiches and salads instead.

Keep an eye peeled also for the Pieman Stall at food markets and festivals over the summer.

Tucked away on South Anne’s Street, this wonderful open space is home to a truly hidden haven in the city centre. A stones-throw from Grafton Street, the Indie Dhaba experience lets you escape the buzz of the city and relax in the peace and comfort of the stylish surrounds. The food offering is completely unique to Dublin - Dhaba-style Indian food - brilliant and creative, full of authentic spices and flavours, created by top chef Sanjay Vishwakarma, who has worked with Oberoi Hotels. With a friendly team guiding you on your way, and cocktails made by award winning mixologist, Darren Geraghty, Indie Dhaba offers Dubliners a whole culinary journey.

367/368 Clontarf Road, Dublin 3 t: 01-8532406. www.bay.ie

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14a Crown Alley, Dublin, Ireland D2

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21-26 Annes Lane, Ann Street South, Dublin 2 01 707 9898 contact@dhaba.ie

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ely gastro bar

777

Diep le Shaker

Situated in the burgeoning Grand Canal Docks, ely gastro bar is superbly fashionable, with slick wooden-panel floors and a smart, spacious interior. Residing close to the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, it’s well situated for a preperformance drink. The ely name is synonymous with wine, but the gastro bar specialises in beer, boasting over 30 craft brews. A set menu of two courses for €19.95, or three for €24.95, is available. Pre-theatre, Canapes, Brunch menus also available.

Run by the same folks who operate two of Ranelaghs favourite foodie haunts, Dillingers and Butcher’s Grill, 777 is a new skinny jeans wearing kid of the scene, thriving on Ireland’s new found love of Mexican food. That said, this is no simple burrito bar (not that we turn our nose up a good burrito) but boasts a menu that runs the full gamut of Central American treats from spicy guava pork to dulce de leche bread and butter pudding.

Celebrating 15 years in business with its award winning cuisine, delicious cocktails and addictive atmosphere, Diep has again received the Thai Select Premium certification for the highest standards in cooking and service.

The cocktails surprise with both classics and unique Diep cocktails such as the Shirt & Thai. Live music Friday and Saturday nights from Cat Burglars, Mob Fandango and Jamie Nanci. Lunches Tuesday to Saturday with a new dim sum selection. Dinner Tuesday to Saturday with a value menu available 5-7pm.

Hanover Quay, Docklands

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7 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2 01-4254052 www.777.ie

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55 Pembroke Lane off Baggot Street Lower, Dublin 2 01-6611829 leshaker@diep.net www.diep.net

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Rigby’s

Boulevard Café

The Port House Pintxo

Seagrass has a simple philosophy: to offer great food and service at affordable prices. A passionate and progressive restaurant in what they do and also offer a genuine and friendly atmosphere while sourcing the best local and international produce available. Now offering an early evening menu until 10pm from Sunday to Thursday and 5pm-7pm Friday and Saturday at €21 for 3 courses and also a group menu for 2 courses (€30) or 3 courses (€35) – both BYOW with no corkage fee charged.

Rigby’s on Leeson Street serves freshly baked pies and seriously sizeable sambos at lunchtime, boasting the “best chicken sandwich in Dublin.” In the evening time, Rigby’s operates with an idiosyncratic no-menu policy, where diners have a choice of two starters, mains and deserts conjured on the day by the irrepressible head chef James.

A stalwart of the Dublin restaurant scene since 1996, Boulevard has been offering quality Mediterranean fare in beautiful, warm, vibrant setting. Boulevard is open 7 days a week and has the reputation of having one of the best Early Birds in town served, which is served from 5pm to 7pm Sunday to Thursday. Above all, a really fun setting at weekends for that special celebration with friends or family.

The Port House Pintxo in Temple Bar serves an array of authentic Spanish Tapas and Pintxos plus a wide and varied selection of wines from Spain, Portugal and the Basque Region. With an impressive garden terrace overlooking Meeting House Square the soft candle light creates a romantic and relaxed atmosphere.

Does not take bookings.

30 South Richmond Street, Portobello, Dublin 2 01-4789595 www.seagrassdublin.com // @seagrassdublin

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126 Leeson St, Dublin 4 087-7939195 @rigbysdeli

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27 Exchequer Street. Dublin 2 t: 01-6792131 boulevardcafe.ie

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12 Eustace Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 t: 01-6728950 www.porthouse.ie/pintxos

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where to eat

ely bar & brasserie, IFSC

Dax

MAK at D6

A stunning destination for lovers of food, wine and beer.

In a 200 year old tobacco and wine warehouse, ely bar & brasserie offers everything from a relaxed family dinner, pre-theatre menus, private dining rooms and after work drinks. The classic bar and brasserie menu reflects the best of seasonal Irish produce – organic where possible, with all meats sourced through the family farm in The Burren, Co Clare.

Ideally located in the heart of Dublin City, Dax is an award-winning restaurant that is now one of Ireland’s premier food destinations. Lunch is served from 12.30pm to 2.15pm. At Dax they understand that many of you are under time constraints, so they guarantee fast service without compromising the quality of the food. Dinner is served from 6pm to 10.30pm. They offer Pre-Theatre and A La Carte Menus and guarantee to use only the freshest of seasonal produce, ensuring a healthy fine dining experience.

Dim Sum evokes the best kind of eating out. A table bursting with boxes that inside hide fat, steaming dumplings that hold within them their own delicate surprises for the diner. For the greedy and indecisive, Dim Sum is a chance to crack-the-knuckles and get ordering. Having originated in the southern Quangdong province of China as a snack of small plates to be served with tea, it’s the Cantonese who are considered to do Dim Sum best. The art of Dim Sum has evolved into a meal that works for breakfast, lunch and dinner in cities all over the world.

And MAK at D6 offers Authentic Dim Sum & Traditional Chinese Cuisine, just 10 minutes from the city centre in the leafy suburb of Ranelagh, which is easily accessed on the Green Luas line.

IFSC, Dublin 1 01 672 0010 www.elywinebar.com

23 Pembroke Street, Dublin 2 t: 01 6761494

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Ranelagh, Dublin 6 t: 01 4060006 www.mak.ie

Marcel’s Restaurant

Bloom Brasserie

The Green Hen

Acapulco

Marcel’s is the new restaurant on St Mary’s road in the location of the former Expresso Bar. It is the sister restaurant of the Green Hen. There is much change in the decor, which is very attractive with inviting sit-all-day orange dining chairs.

The menu is very inviting and it very simple. However the food delivers with great, clean flavours. Open all week for both lunch and dinner, it is well worth a visit.

Bloom Brasserie is a restaurant with lofty ambitions. Well versed in the traditions of French cuisine, Bloom’s offers up accessible cuisine that accentuates their quality local ingredients. Head chef Pól Ó hÉannraich has lovingly assembled a menu that sees Angus Beef carpaccio alongside Caramelised King Scallops, and Roast Seabass. All dishes are freshly prepared and cooked to perfection.

Located in the heart of the city on Exchequer St., The Green Hen specialises in classic French cuisine with an Irish twist.

It is known for its gallic décor, an extensive drinks list of wines, bottled beers, draughts and of course its legendary cocktails. Open 7 days a week, you can try the three-course early bird for €22 from 5.30-7pm from Thursday to Sunday. Delicious food, a lively atmosphere, personable staff and a unique quaintness set this restaurant apart from the rest.

Acapulco is an authentic and colourful Mexican restaurant situated on Georges Street. With an invigorating atmosphere and friendly staff, the memorable dining experience offers something out of the ordinary. Not only do they offer authentic Mexican cuisine, they also offer a wide range of desserts, including their deep fried ice cream, and drinks, including their famous margaritas. Open 7 days a week, Acapulco welcomes patrons for lunch or dinner specials.

33 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 t: 01-6707238 w: thegreenhen.ie

7 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2 01-6771085 www.acapulco.ie

1 Saint Mary’s Road Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 T: (01) 660 2367

11 Upper Baggot Street, Dublin 4 01-6687170 www.bloombrasserie.ie

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NEWS, REVIEWS, LISTINGS, MUSIC, ART, PHOTOGRAPHY, FASHION, STREET STYLE, EATING OUT, EATING IN, NIGHTLIFE, DAYLIFE, HETERO AND GAYLIFE, FILM, THEATRE, PARKS, SHOPS, PUBS, CLUBS AND HAPPY DUBS, WHAT’S ON, WHAT’S GOOD, WHAT ARE YOU UP TO?

“Delightful D1 dining” L U C I N D A O ’ S U L L I VA N . S U N D AY I N D E P E N D E N T

P R E - T H E AT R E D I N I N G 2 course €19.95 & 3 course €21.95 2 5 E U R O VA L U E M E N U 3 courses available from 5pm 7 days

TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE

* * G R O U P D I N I N G R O O M S AVA I L A B L E * *

Tune into the Totally Dublin Radio Show, Saturday morning 9-11am on TXFM, 105.2 FM

8 1 - 8 2 TA L B O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N C I T Y C E N T R E Tel: 01 704 0126 E: info@leboncrubeen.ie

The

TERRACE

At The Terrace the culinary team are devoted to using locally sourced Irish produce from a variety of artisan producers

Restaurant Express Lunch Menu B

Heated Outdoor Terrace Open for Alfresco Dining. Full a la carte and set menu options available for lunch, dinner and pre concert dining.

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Donegal mussels in a white wine garlic and cream sauce Delicious bowl of freshly cooked mussels served with homemade Guinness brown bread and farmhouse butter.

€8.95

100% Irish beef nachos Spicy beefnachos served with jalapenos, melted Dubliner cheddar cheese and sour cream,

€8.95 BUSÁRAS

Spicy basket of chicken wings

THE POINT

Served with blue cheese dip and chunky celery sticks

€8.95

Terrace club sandwich Triple decker filled with chicken, bacon, cheese, tomato & mayonaise. Served with chunky fries or side salad.

€9.95

at The National Concert Hall Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2

T: 01 4170090

E: nch@withtaste.ie

www.nationalconcerthall.ie

AFRICA DAY 2014 In celebration of the yearly Africa Day 2014, Irish Aid and the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade will host the flagship Africa Day event on Sunday 25 May in Dublin and other locations around Ireland. Family-centred, free, with an eye on fortifying ties between Africa and Ireland, the fun runs from 11am to 6pm at the Farmleigh Estate, Phoenix Park, Dublin. words: Eoin Tierney

Africa Day’s main stage possesses a formidable line up of Irish and African music, with the traditional Irish group Kíla headlining. Never shy of incorporating World-music influences into their Traditional Irish music, Kíla have been off the scene for a while and their appearance in Africa Day festivities marks their welcome return.

Tig Linn will also perform on the main stage; comprised of seven Irish and Nigerian musicians, their sound meets in the middle ground between those two musical traditions. Watch out for their Afro-Céilí, where the audience is taught an Irish set followed by a traditional African dance.

Other acts fated for Africa Day are the Colours Afrobeat Foundation, the ten-piece ska-punk group The Amazing Few, and the Irish foursome Square Pegs, who favour the 50s R&B/New Orleans’ Big Band sound. For something more contemporary however, be sure to head in the direction of the hip-hop stage, where emerging rappers and DJs will be showcasing new music.

But the African Day festivities are not limited to just music: the African Bazaar boasts stalls from 20 separate African countries. The stalls will offer traditional African food, garb, drumming, hair-braiding, henna hand-painting, and other accessories.

In addition, there are scheduled intergenerational education projects, film screenings, art exhibitions and public seminars, all with the express purpose of increasing public awareness of the richness of African culture.

Finally, on offer for the younger attendees are an assortment of activities, from theatre performances, face-painting and mask-making, to storytelling and sports.

The Minister of Trade and Development Joe Costello spoke these words as he launched the event: “This year’s Africa Day aims to shine a light on the opportunities that exist between Ireland and the continent of Africa for developing partnerships and collaboration.”

Minister Costello went on to sum up the spirit of inclusion, good will and community Africa day represents: “Our theme for this year’s celebrations is ‘Partners for Growth’ and it is in the true spirit of working together that we celebrate Africa Day and its people, particularly those who now call Ireland home.”

The origins of Africa Day go back to 1958, with the organisation of a political conference attended by just eight independent African states, the remaining states still residing under colonial rule. But things would improve, and by May 25 1963, 30 out of 32 independent African states signed a founding charter in Ethiopia bringing into existence the Organisation of African Unity, which was later called the African Union.

Interestingly, Africa Day is observed as a public holiday by only five African counties: Ghana, Mali, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe, but celebrated in many others and by Africans in diaspora in countries like Ireland, Spain, the UK and USA.

FIVE ARTISTS AT AFRICA DAY

Main Stage Kíla Regulars to the Africa Day stage, having played here in 2008 and 2009, Kíla have been playing together for almost 20 years. Beloved by Bono and Sinéad Ó Connor, Kíla are seven members orbiting main man Rónán Ó Snodaigh on the bodhrán (traditional Irish percussion instrument), accompanied by his brother Rossa on tin whistle, several more members, and a swathe of different instruments, from Ireland and abroad.

2013 saw Kíla on hiatus so it’s great to see them back in the saddle touring in 2014. Coincidentally, “Kila” in Swahili means “all”.

Tig Linn Tig Linn number seven Irish and Nigerian musicians writing original songs in Yoruba and English, who draw influences from their individual Irish and Nigerian traditions. Tig Linn have several festival appearances over the course of the summer, and on Thursday May 22 will launch their new EP at Whelan’s at 8pm, tickets coming with a complimentary copy of the EP.

Stage Two Timi Martins Having lived in Ireland for over 15 years, Nigerian native Martins has worked tirelessly to improve the image of his Nigerian compatriots. A very full CV lists him as founder of the Streetball Nationwide Tournament and Co-Founder of Rap, Ireland magazine. In 2011 was named the Africa Day Ambassador for Ireland by Irish Aid. His civic-mindedness and contribution to Afro-Irish relations, mixed with his rap prowess and music savvy, make Martins a positive role-model.

DJ Wax Self-described as “Ireland’s biggest export since Guinness”, the Dublin-based DJ is one of the best urban, R’n’B DJs in Ireland right now, cutting his teeth at house parties before moving up to larger clubs and eventually becoming one of Dublin’s most in-demand Disc Jockeys.

Storytellers Unlike the more established acts on the bill, Storytellers are an up-and-coming teenage hiphop duo hailing from Drogheda. Composed of Zimbabwe-born rapper/producer Drew Soundz and Irish rapper Noel Crosby, they’ve put their shoulders to the hip-hop wheel in order to complete their debut album and release their first single soon.

DINGLE-MYKINGDOM FOR A DONKEY Words // John Carey Photos // Nichola Thomas

It takes four and a half hours of driving from Dublin, but well worth every minute as the scenery is spectacular. The first thing that spreads across the horizon is the sheer gargantuan of beauty that is the Magillacuddy Reeks, a mountain range that stretches into the Kerry terrain like a swan stretching out its wings upon a sleepy landscape. Every bend in the road heralds a new breathtaking scene change.

We arrive in Dingle about tea time and promptly proceed to our lodgings, the popular Dingle Skellig Hotel on the edge of town and only a five minute walk to the Harbour.

The view from the spacious room out on to the bay is nothing short of spectacular. After a nice relaxing jacuzzi in the leisure centre we put on our glad rags and head for the dining room. Dinner in hotels at the best of times is not quite up to scratch in my opinion but we are pleasantly surprised by the quality fare.

In Dingle there is a bar every ten yards you walk in any direction and they are no ordinary bars as they double up as grocery stores so you can go do your food shopping and have a pint at the same time. After a nice leisurely stroll we happen upon Dick Macks pub, a quaint little watering hole with pictures of Charles Haughey on the wall and old fiddles hanging from the old wood book cases. There is a guy on a tin whistle and another with an accordian belting out old gaelic tunes while in the corner

there are a group of Americans munching on pizza from one of the local take aways and quaffing down creamy pints. The next day we head for the Slea Head Drive a ring road beginning and ending in Dingle. Taking the R559 south we arrive at Ventry harbour, a beautiful horse shoe enclave with fantastic views and a long stretch of sandy beach very popular with windsurfers. Moving on from there we head west past Dunbeg Fort,with a steep cliff on one side and the roaring Atlantic on the other. We arrive at Slea Head peninsula which is marked by a stone crucifix and beautiful views of the Blasket Islands.

We drive northwards passing Coumenoole Strand where part of the famous David Lean epic Ryans Daughter was filmed. At Dun Chaoin you can get the ferry to the Great Blasket but we decide to continue on to Ballyferriter. After a nice lunch in the Ceann Sibeal Hotel we head east taking in a number of neolitic sites including the early Christian site at Reasc. Dingle is famous for its pottery and when on the Slea Head drive do pop in to Louis Mulcahy Pottery on Clogher Strand where you will find little gems at afforable prices.

Another great place along the drive is Ballydavid as it leads out to a cliff top drive with dramatic views and crashing waves with beautiful seabirds hovering below. Turning south we head past the base of Mount Brandon – the second largest mountain in Ireland. If you are a keen rambler you can find a pil-

grimage route to the mountain summit. We now turn onto the main road back to Dingle and a well earned drink in the town before dinner.

Restaurants are aplenty in Dingle and the only place for seafood has to be Out of The Blue at Dingle Harbour. I cannot recommend this place highly enough. On my visit there I had the freshest Grilled Lemon Sole. It was practically jumping off the plate as all fish is caught daily and landed at the harbour just across from the Restaurant.

The highlight of this trip for me was undoubtedly the 8th wonder of the world - Conor Pass. The Conor Pass is the highest mountain pass in all of Ireland and is a must visit for anybody visiting the area. Driving up to the pass from Dingle you know you are in the lap of the Gods - you might pass the odd cloud meandering around its many bends in the road. The views on the way up are simply amazing - watch out for a few dozen sheep feeding off the mossy hillsides as they sometimes tend to cross the road. When reaching the pass itself you are greeted with the most spectacular views of the corrie lakes and the glaciated landscapes. On a clear day you can see the Aran Islands off the coast of County Galway.

Upon decsending the other side of the pass you are greeted with a road so narrow that you can barely fit one car through and the sheer drop on the left hand side and cliff base on the other makes for a truely awesome adrenalin filled car journey you will never forget.

Cafe Open- 10-3pm Daily Dinner - 5-930pm Nightly

Early Bird- 2 Courses €15—3 Courses €18 The Milesian’s head chef is passionate about food. Greg has spent the past winter in Chapter One and has a vast amount of experience in some of Ireland’s most prestigious restaurants including Pichet and L’Ecrivain, as well as San Sebastian’s Mugaritz (Awarded 3rd in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2012).

The Milesian is certainly well worth the visit.

trad

The Cobblestone

Peadar Kearneys

The Cobblestone pub boasts an inviting location, nestled in the heart of vibrant Smithfield - just two minutes walk from the Luas and the award-winning Lighthouse Cinema. It is home to fine traditional music sessions seven nights a week, hosted by many familiar faces of the Irish music scene. The pub offers a large selection of Irish craft beers to accompany its legendary pint of Guinness. All this together with its charming bar staff and homely, rustic surroundings make the Cobblestone one of a kind on the Dublin pub scene.

Peadar’s is a traditional pub with strong historic roots. The pub is named after a musician who lived in the building where the bar is located now, he composed Abhrán na BhFiann (The Irish national anthem). We continue this tradition with nightly traditional, toe tapping music. One of the regular musicians, Brian Brody, is a must see for any tourist visiting the city. He’s a one man atmosphere machine. There’s a basement bar downstairs when upstairs overflows, which also caters to sporting events including NFL games. If you’re looking for somewhere with temple bar music and atmosphere without the prices, take a look at Peadar’s.

77 King St N Smithfield, Dublin 7 01 872 1799

64 Dame Street, Dublin 2 085 726 7078 www.peadarkearneys.com

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O’Shea’s Merchant Bar

Devitts Pub

Blarney Inn

O’Shea’s Merchant is located in the heart of Ireland’s captial, just minutes from the city’s cultural quarter, Temple Bar. O’Shea’s Merchant is renowned for it’s live Irish music, traditional set dancing and unique atmosphere. One of the city’s few remaining traditional pubs is a firm favourite with visitors to the city.

In addition to the traditional bar, O’Shea’s Merchant has 25 spacious guest rooms available, offering excellent value for money in a city centre location. O’Shea’s Merchant Serves from an extensive menu each day offering a selection of award winning Irish & International Dishes.

12 Bridge Street, Dublin 8 t: 01 679 3797

A family run pub for over 35 years unique is the perfect word to describe this pub. Every Thursday,Friday and Saturday night some of the most talented musicians in Dublin come to play in Devitts. Located right in the middle of the hustle and bustle of Camden St, Devitts provides excellent traditional music to both tourists and dubliners alike. The upstairs lounge is the perfect venue for an intimate session. The Friday night session in particular led by the mighty Gerry Quinn is a must see.

78 Lwr Camden St t: 014753414 devittspub@gmail.com

There’s a twist toThe Blarney Inn. It’s is a traditional Irish bar (with live Irish music and dancing), with a restaurant; renowned for their variety of speciality steaks, and a spectacular Irish nightclub - Club Nassau (home of the slow-set). It also has The Stella Lieu bar, a mult-purpose room, free for groups of up to 100 people. Very popular indeed. Located only minutes from Dublin city centre on Nassau Street the Blarney delivers a variety of entertainment and foods for every taste - authentic local dishes rub shoulders with European fare to satisfy all. Try the Beef and Guinness stew, it’s amazing - you are sure to get a feel for the best of Irish cooking, dancing and music.

Kildare Street Hotel, 47-49 Kildare St, Dublin 2 t: 01 679 4388

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TAC at the Grand Social

The Celt Bar

If you’re lucky enough to be around town at the time, a must see is TAC (Traditional Arts Collective) This band have come from the fringes and taken the world of traditional music and dance by storm. The difference between TAC and your average Ceili band is that they have added a drum kit and bass guitar to the mix, this makes for a rocking sound! At TAC gigs an MC calls out lively set-dances and everyone in the room ends up dancing-a great opportunity to meet people and have ‘the craic’!upcoming Ceili at the Grand Social; December 11th, 8pm; €10 entrance fee.

The Celt Bar is an authentic Irish bar located in the north of Dublin’s city centre, just a few minutes walk from O’Connell Street and The Spire. A regular haunt for locals and visitors alike looking for a real taste of Irish culture, the Celt Bar offers up live traditional Irish music, good food and great craic every day. The rustic interior belies its city centre location and the welcome is as warm as Kerry rain and the black stuff never ceases to flow. A great place for a quick lunch or a bite to eat in the evening while listening to the superb traditional music.

81 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 The Celt: 01 878 8655

The Grand Social, 35 Lr Liffey St, D1 www.traditionalartscollective.com www.thegrandsocial.com

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The Irish House Party

J. McNeill’s In a former life, McNeill’s plied its trade as a one of Dublin’s most famed musical instrument shops, and a window full of banjos, bazoukis and bodhrán’s still belies that image to the world outside on Capel Street. Inside however, the place has been reborn as the home of some of Dublin most highly-regarded trad sessions with music on a nightly basis, as well as a daycent pint of plain to go with it, as you’d rightly Ned Keenan’s pub, which is connected to the Mapleexpect. In a former life, McNeill’s plied its trade as a one of

Ned Keenan’s

J. McNeill’s

The Irish House Party is Dublin’s unique Irish music and dance show. Having just returned from a UK and US tour where theatres in London, Chicago, Missouri and New York were sold out, The Irish House Party is a show not to be missed while in Dublin.

Located at 19 Francis St, firstly you dine in our restaurant from 7pm where you will enjoy a delicious four course traditional Irish meal before enjoying an evening of top class The Irish House Party is Dublin’s unique Irish music and entertainment from All Ireland champion musicians and dancers.

The Irish House Party

Hotel on Gardiner Street, Dublin 1 is a cosy, relaxing bar; dance show. Having just returned from a UK and US tour Dublin’s most famed musical instrument shops, and a 19 Francis Street, Christchurch, Dublin 8 140 Capel Street the perfect place to sit back after a busy day exploring where theatres in London, Chicago, Missouri and New window full of banjos, bazoukis and bodhrán’s still belies t: 01 6729272 t: 01874 7679 Dublin. Their friendly staff make Ned’s the most popular that image to the world outside on Capel Street. Inside c4York were sold out, The Irish House Party is a show not to d3 place for tourists and locals alike. Guests in our pub will however, the place has been reborn as the home of some be missed while in Dublin. Located at 19 Francis St, firstly enjoy a fresh pint of the finest Guinness in Ireland. Come you dine in our restaurant from 7pm where you will enjoy of Dublin most highly-regarded trad sessions with music along on a Friday or Saturday evening for their 11pm a delicious four course traditional Irish meal before enon a nightly basis, as well as a daycent pint of plain to go traditional music session with some of Dublin’s finest joying a night of top class entertainment from All Ireland with it, as you’d rightly expect. musicians. These sessions are always packed and go well champion musicians and dancer. into the night. Just like down the country!

140 Capel Street The Maple Hotel, 74 – 75 Lwr Gardiner St, Dublin 1 19 Francis Street, Christchurch, Dublin 8 01874 7679 t: 01 6729272 t: 01 855 5442 d3

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Ned Keenan’s

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