The
Issue No. 8
PERFECT
SALE PHOTOS SIMPLE STEPS TO
HELP YOUR HORSE SHINE
PHOTO TIPS! THINGS EVERY EQUESTRIAN SHOULD KNOW
A LOOK AT
POST-PRODUCTION AND HOW TO TAKE YOUR PHOTOS TO THE NEXT LEVEL
PLUS SIMPLE DIY PHOTO ACCESSORIES AND SO MUCH MORE
CONTENTS SPOTLIGHT 04 A Flair for Fashion We had great fun setting up and
photographing this mini fashion shoot just for this issue.
16 Proudly Canadian The fashion shoot fun continues,
with a distinctly Canadian flair.
FEATURED 32 Top 10 DSLR Must Haves
What are the must have accessories to get the most out of your new
camera?
36 Post-Production
THE ESSENTIALS 24 Photo Tips Seven photo tips that every
equestrian should know.
28 Photography on a Budget Simple DIY projects and life
hacks to spruce up your photos, without breaking the bank.
How to take your photos to the next level with post-production.
40 Sales Photos Done Right How to make your sale horse
truly shine for potential buyers.
Editor’s Desk So after what seemed an endless wait, summer is finally here! Show season is back in full swing, and the 2015 Pan Am Games are just around the corner. It’s going to be an exciting summer filled with horses and some great competition. What are you most looking forward to? We have a great issue for you this month, jam-packed with lots of fun and informative content for equestrian photographers, amateur or professional. We’ve got simple tips to improve your photos on the go, post-production tricks to enhance your photos after the shoot, and simple life hacks to improve your photos without breaking the bank. Photography is a great creative outlet for anyone involved, and you don’t need to be a professional with fancy equipment to enjoy it. Professionals do a wonderful job of beautifully capturing and memorializing you and your horse, and are a great option if you are looking for top quality photos, but that shouldn’t deter you from dabbling and experimenting with your own camera when out and about at the barn. As an amateur photographer myself, I always enjoy a change to lug the camera out to the barn and snap a few shots. It’s okay to make mistakes, it is how you learn! And I’ll be the first to admit I usually have to sort through a lot of ugly photos before I find a few gems. Hopefully you will find a few new tricks and tips within these pages to improve or inspire your photography, and we’d love to hear you chime in on social media if you have any handy tricks to share with other photographers! Enjoy, and happy summer everyone!
Editor In Chief Krista Rivet
Social Media Allyson Lowe
Guest Writers & Contributors Tia Culley, Celeste Genesse
General Inquiries info@theeloquentequine.com
Submissions theeloquentequine@gmail.com
Advertising Inquiries advertising@theeloquentequine.com
Subscriptions Available through Issuu
We’ll be back with a new full issue in August, focused on training foundations!
The Eloquent Equine is a quarterly publication, producing four full issues a year.
On the Cover: Super star photo model Nutmeg, owned and trained by Stephanie Jensen Equestrian.
Reproduction of any material from this issue in whole or part without written permission is strictly prohibited.
The Eloquent Equine • 3
A FLAIR FOR
FASHION Photo Shoot Stats
Model: Kristen Mccullough Horse(s): Morton’s Sun Catcher (pictured) & Nutmeg Location: Stephanie Jensen Equestrian Equipment: Canon Rebel T3i DSLR with a Canon EF 70-300 mm USM IS lens and lens hood
The Eloquent Equine • 5
Proudly
CANADIAN Photo Shoot Stats Model: Stephanie Jensen Horse: SJE Dontecito Location: Stephanie Jensen Equestrian Equipment: Canon Rebel T3i DSLR with a Canon EF 70-300 mm USM IS lens
The Eloquent Equine • 17
The Eloquent Equine • 19
The Eloquent Equine • 21
Spotlight • Proudly Canadian
The Eloquent Equine • 23
7 PHOTO TIPS
FOR EVERY EQUESTRIAN ARTICLE BY CELESTE GENESSE
Whether you take photos with a cellphone or a top of the line DSLR, these tips can help any equestrian nail the shot every time.
1. Have a Helper (or two) The most valuable thing you can have on a shoot is an extra body. As we all know, horses are not always the most cooperative participants, so it makes the shoot go much smoother and stress free when you have a helper to handle the horse. A helper can do as little as shaking a bucket of treats for a second or as much as holding and setting up the horse for all the photos. Don’t be afraid to ask your barn friends for a few minutes of their time, most will be happy to oblige and it will result in a much better experience.
2. Pay Attention to the Background The background of a photo is even more important than the subject itself. Nothing wrecks a photo faster than a clutter of junk or unwanted objects in the photo. Half of the battle is finding the best place to shoot. If the property doesn’t have a nice field, garden, or forest that you can use as a backdrop, try using the side of the barn or a doorway. A super-simple background is usually better than a cluttered one.
The Essentials • 7 Photo Tips for Every Equestrian
The other half of the battle is the angle at which you are shooting. Many times you can achieve a much better background it you just move yourself around the subject- it is all about perspective!
3. Get Low Unless you are photographing an extremely tall horse or you are an extremely short person, you are not shooting at the right angle if you stand straight. For conformation photos, you need to crouch down and angle the lens at the horse’s girth spot/ shoulder to get a balanced photo with correct proportions. Even when shooting head shots, many times when you stand straight you will end with improper proportions such as a broader forehead or a too-narrow neck.
4. Use Clean, Well Fitting Tack While this may seem simple, it can make a world of difference in your photos. You have to think almost as if you are about to go in front of a judge; how can you turn out your horse so that they look their best? If you don’t have a nice leather halter, use your bridle for the photos. Make sure the bit is clean and that the browband and noseband are straight. If you usually do-up your noseband and throat latch pretty loose, put them a little tighter so that everything stays where it should be and doesn’t gape.
5. Know your Device Understanding the ins and outs of your phototaking device will make it much easier to get a great photo.
”
Tip # 2 Example
Here is an example of photographing in a door way, a very simple and useful trick to have in your back pocket. All you do is have the subject stand at the edge of the doorway facing out with no lights on in the structure behind them.
Even phones and the simplest point and shoot cameras have multiple settings nowadays, so get to know what you can do and how certain settings or options are better for particular situations.
The Eloquent Equine • 25
Even for devices that don’t allow for customization, figure out in what light your camera takes the best photos, and what your limit is on how fast a subject can be moving. If you have a DSLR, try out all the different modes, including the manual modes, and experiment with the various settings. Truly knowing your device allows you to take the best photos you possibly can.
6. Keep Shooting! When things don’t go as planned during a shoot (as they inevitably will) it is easy to put the camera down. You know what I am talking about; when the horse decides it is a giraffe or a buzzing bee just won’t go away. These are the times you will capture genuine emotion and the most unique photos that will bring back memories of the shoot years down the line. Once I was photographing a girl, her horse, and her dog-who was more concerned with what I was doing lying in the grass than posing nicely. It resulted in an adorable picture with a unique composition and ended up being one of the client’s favourite photos of the day.
7. Take Lots of Photos Digital files are essentially free, so why take only one photo? Shoot away!
”
Tip # 4 Example
Even if you just need one photo, take a few anyway and then move a few feet and take some more. As an example, on an average shoot I take approximately 1500-2000 photos and end up with well under 100 chosen photos.
In this photo, it would have been better to use the reins that match the bridle instead of a pink lead with a chain.
While this may seem excessive to some, it is quite normal among professional photographers. Now this does not mean that 90% of the photos were necessarily “bad”, but rather that I was able to choose the absolute best photos of the day.
I ended up editing out the lead altogether because it was so distracting.
Even if you take a bunch of photos and end up with just one that you like, at least you are sure that it is the absolute best photo you could have taken.
The Essentials • 7 Photo Tips for Every Equestrian
Its the little things that matter!
”
Tip # 6 Example
Once I was photographing a girl, her horse, and her dog-who was more concerned with what I was doing lying in the grass than posing nicely. It resulted in this adorable picture with a unique composition and ended up being one of the client’s favourite photos of the day.
The Eloquent Equine • 27
PHOTOGRAPHY ? $! ON A BUDGET $ !? SAVE MONEY AND SPRUCE UP YOUR PHOTOS WITH THESE SIMPLE DIY PROJECTS
T
he internet is a great tool when it comes to sourcing out easy ways to make your life simpler without breaking the bank, and it’s no different when it comes to photography.
If you’re the crafty type, or just desperate to save some coin, these simple tutorials will help you improve your photos without going completely broke. While they may not work as well as the professional grade photography supplies from your local camera store, they are totally cost effective and will work well in a pinch. Note: we don’t claim the genius behind coming up with some of these tutorials (but we may have given them some of our own clever names), full credit goes to the professionals and sites listed in the sources under each tutorial. Check out the full source information for more info, and possibly more tricks!
The Essentials • Photography on a Budget
THE SHEET SUN DIFFUSER/REFLECTOR Doing a lot of shoots around the barn and find that harsh lighting is becoming a problem? Have no fear, this super simple DIY trick will help you even out harsh contrast and shadows caused by the sun for your next shoot, or enhance your lighting in shaded spots. It also doubles as a great background! What you’ll need: • A sheet (white or slightly off-white) • A way to keep your sheet up (e.g., a tall friend, a tree, a wall, etc.) To use: • To use it as a reflector, place the sheet in a spot where it will bounce the light back at the model (at the angle you desire), you can also have your model(s) sit on the sheet to reflect light up onto the face. • To use it as a diffuser, place the sheet in a spot where it sits between the model(s) and the light. Depending on the material and weave of the sheet, it will have different effects and diffuse a different amount of light, so try experimenting until you get the desired effect. Source: Bright hub
THE SUPER QUICK BUILD FLASH BOUNCER Find yourself stuck with using that terrible built in flash equipped to most DSLRs? Then have no fear, this super simple trick will help redirect the light, leading to much nicer portraits and images when shooting with flash inside or in lower light conditions. It’s not a perfect solution, but like many of our DIY accessories, it works well in a pinch. What you’ll need: • A white business card • Scissors To make your own: • Take your white business card (if don’t have a white business card handy, make your own by cutting a rectangle out of a thick piece of white card stock, approximately 3.5 x 2” in size – you may need to play
around with the size a bit, depending on the width and height of your built in flash) • Make two short cuts on one of the short ends of the card To use: • Slide the end of the card with the two cuts over the hinges on your flash (when popped up) • Angle the card approximately 45 degrees and shoot away! Source: DIY Photography
EASY BUILD LIGHT BOX/TENT There are a range of different DIY light tent tutorials out there, but we picked this one because it is super simple and really inexpensive! What you will need: • 4 pieces of white paper • An external flash (optional) • A smooth level surface
The Eloquent Equine • 29
To make your own: • Take one piece of paper and place it on your smooth level surface • Take two pieces of paper and fold them in half to create the sides of your tent, place them on your base sheet of paper • Take another piece of paper and place in on top of the two walls you just created • To use: • Place an object inside the tent and place your camera in front of the open side of the tent, a short distance away • If using natural lighting, try placing your tent in front of a window or natural source of light • If using an external flash place, it at an angle to the left of your tent opening (you can move it around to experiment with other light sources) • Try placing the paper walls at different angles to get different effects Source: JFotography
CUSTOM SHAPE BOKEH Ever noticed those blurry (out-of-focus) little highlights (usually circles or polygons) in the back of your photos? Well those are called a bokeh, and they are created when photographing tiny points of light. For some added fun, you can make your own custom shape bokeh to spice up your photos. This DIY camera tool will only work with a DSLR camera equipped with a lens that has a large aperture. What you’ll need: • Black paper • Pencil / pen • Scissors • Tape • A craft knife or a decorative paper punch To make your own: • Cut a strip of paper long enough to fully wrap around your lens • Wrap this strip around the outside of your
The Essentials • Photography on a Budget
• • • •
camera lens to form a cylinder, and use tape to secure it Take the paper tube you just made off of your lens, and set in on a piece of black paper Trace around it to create a circle, then cut that circle out Use a paper punch, knife, or scissors to cut your pattern/shape in the middle of the circle Your shape should be approximately ½” to ¾”
To use: • Tape the circle you just cut out to the end of the tube you created • Slip it over the end of your lens and you are ready to go! Source: How About Orange
EASY BEAN TRIPOD Tripod not in your budget, but need something to balance your camera on, or securely hold your camera for family and self-portraits? Then this DIY accessory is for you. What you’ll need: • Scissors • Pins • Sewing machine / Needle and thread • Rice or beans for filling To make your own: • Start by cutting two 8” circles from your selected fabric • Then cut a strip of fabric that is 8” x 24” in size • Pin one of the circles to the long side of the strip you just cut and pin the short side of the bag together • Sew around the circumference of the circle and down the short side • Pin the other circle to the open side of the bag, like you did with the first circle • Sew around the circumference of the circle, leaving a small opening a few inches wide unstitched • Turn the bag right side out and fill with your selected filler • Fold over the raw edges from the opening you left in the top, and sew closed
To use: • Place your newly constructed bean bag on a level surface where you want to shoot, place your camera on top and shoot away. Source: Do it yourself Divas
THE STRINGPOD If you are looking for a more portable and cheap tripod option, go for the stringpod. Completely inexpensive, super easy to build, and extremely portable, this clever DIY project can help stabilize your DSLR or point and shoot easily. It’s not quite the same as an actual try pod, but it will do the trick in a pinch. What you’ll need: • A ¼” eye bolt • A thick string or cord • Scissors To make your own: • Take the string and cut it to a length that is approximately three times your height • Tie the two ends of the string you cut together • Pass the string through the eye of your eye bolt and use a loop knot to secure it in place To use: • Screw the eye bolt into the tripod socket on the bottom of your camera. • Step onto the string with both feet, and stand with your legs about shoulder width apart • Pull the camera up to add tension to the string and help steady your camera • The stringpod works best for low-light situations (where you need to increase the ISO) Source: CNET
$!? The Eloquent Equine • 31
TOP 10
DSLR MUST HAVES Congratulations! You’ve got yourself a shiny new digital SLR camera and are ready to hit the road and starting shooting some great photos. But before you go you want to accessories to really get the most out of your photography. So what do you buy? There are a lot of camera accessory options on the market today, which is great, but can also be a bit overwhelming to the beginner photographer. We’ve compiled a list of the items we think are absolutely essential to making your life simpler and make shooting that much more fun. Whether you’re talking photos of your barn buddies at home, or snapping great show ring shots, these accessories are must haves.
1. CAMERA BAG Owning a DSLR means you’re destined to have a lot of things to carry around, from memory cards, to camera bodies, to lenses, batteries and more, you have a lot of stuff you need to keep organized.
• How much money you are willing to spend ? Bags can run from a couple of dollars to a couple of hundred dollars, depending on the size, brand, and materials involved. To avoid getting overwhelmed, define your budget range in advance.
2. CLEANERS ( LENS AND SENSOR )
Finding the right camera bag that suits your needs can be a serious chore, but it’s a necessary evil to ensure you get the most out of your shoots and protect your valuable equipment. Before heading to the camera store to get that perfect bag, keep a few things in mind:
Dirt happens, it’s unavoidable, but specks and spots in photos can be prevented by adding some handy tools to your arsenal.
• Where will you be shooting most?
Dirt on any of these elements can leave spots on your image and reduce quality overall, so it’s good to have a regular cleaning regimen. Having a micro fiber lens cloth and/or lens pen stashed in your bag can save you problems down the road.
From backpacks to sling bags there are a wide range of camera bag styles on the market today for you to choose one. To save hassle down the road, try to pick one that will best suit your shooting needs. If you will be shooting while hiking and camping (or carry a lot of equipment), go for a backpack. For horse shows or outdoor events, a sling or shoulder bag may be the best as they are easy to carry, but also remain accessible if you need to quickly switch a lens or grab a stored accessory. • How many accessories and camera lenses you need to house? If you need to carry 3 lenses and a camera body, make sure you buy a bag that has that capacity. A good rule of thumb is to buy bigger than you need. Even if you are a beginner with only one or two lenses, you will accumulate more over time, so buying bigger saves you a trip to the store for a new camera bag later on.
It’s important to not only keep your lens clean from dirt and debris, but your sensor as well.
Do keep in mind that sensors and lens glass are delicate objects, so be careful when cleaning to avoid scratching or damaging them.
3. EXTRA BATTERIES Having extra batteries on hand can be a lifesaver during a long day of photography, especially at a horse show where you may not have reliable access electricity and a safe place to plug your battery charger. While most camera batteries these days are built to last, it’s still handy to keep an extra one or two on hand just in case, or if you’ve forgotten to check (or charge) one of them before heading out for the day.
The Eloquent Equine • 33
4. LENS HOOD
be stable and reliable so try to test a few different models before making a decision to purchase.
A lens hood is a plastic ring that typically screws onto the end of your lens.
6. A HANDFUL OF EXTRA MEMORY CARDS (OR A COUPLE WITH LARGE AMOUNTS OF MEMORY )
When shooting outside in bright sunlight, or in indoor venues where there may be a large amount of fluorescent lights overhead, the hood helps to prevent overhead and side light from reaching the lens. They help prevent flares and spots from light reflected into the lens at an angle, resulting in better photos and less time spent trying to correct images during post-processing. As an added bonus, the hood also protects the lens from fingerprints, scratches, dirt, and rain while shooting.
5. A GOOD ( RELIABLE ) TRIPOD Tripods are the key to achieving crisp clear images, especially when shooting landscapes, in low light, or over long distances (telephoto lenses can be heavy, and if not well balanced you can get some unwanted shake). There are a wide range of tripods on the market today, at a range of price points, so pick one that is sturdy, but works for your needs. If you will be carting it around with you at horse shows or around the property for a barn photo shoot, look for a compact and lightweight model made of carbon fiber or aluminum that has a tall height and the ability to rotate. Avoid plastic tripods, they are not as sturdy as their meal counterparts, and you want to keep your expensive camera gear safe! Keep in mind that you want your tripod to
DSLR photo files take up a lot of space, it’s unavoidable. Having a handful of memory cards in your camera bag helps to avoid running out of space, and keeps you safe in case one decides to fail (it happens). Even among the top of the line retailers (e.g. Lexar and SanDisk), the cost of cards has dropped significantly over recent years so you can get a few good cards without breaking the bank. Camera and electronic stores often have sales on these items as well, so keep an eye out for a good bargain.
7. A PADDED CAMERA STRAP The camera strap that comes with your camera from the manufacturer is generally not that comfortable. If you are only shooting occasionally it may work, but for long shoots or heavy equipment it can be unpleasant (and leave marks). Invest a few extra dollars (your neck will thank you) in a nice wide and padded strap, you won’t regret it.
8. LOTS OF HARD DRIVE SPACE (OR AN EXTERNAL HARD DRIVE ) If you’ve been working with a point and shoot camera up to this point, you have been lucky enough to avoid the memory space swallowing beast that is DSLR photo files. Even when shooting on the smaller settings
offered by most DSLR cameras, your file sizes are going to be significantly larger than what you get with smaller point and shoot and mobile cameras. If you are taking full advantage of high resolution JPEGS, shooting in RAW, or taking some HD video, be prepared to fill your hard drive fast. To deal with this extra file size, especially if you don’t have a large hard drive on your computer, look at investing in an external hard drive. They are a fairly popular accessory these days, and most stores sell a variety of sizes at a fairly affordable price point. Ideally aim for at least 1TB if you are planning on doing a lot of shooting, just to be safe.
9. POLARIZING FILTER A polarizer helps to minimize reflected light picked up by your lens. Using this type of filter, especially when shooting outside in bright sunny conditions will improve contrast, minimize glare, and result in bluer skies. For anyone who does a large amount of photography outdoors, this filter is a great addon to improve your photos and minimize your post production time.
10. EXTERNAL SPEEDLIGHT/ FLASH One thing you will learn very fast is that the built in flash in your DSLR is something you’d rather avoid. It is the most unpleasant and unflattering source of light you will probably ever come across in all your photography days. The best advice is to avoid using that built in flash all together, your photos will thank you for it.
So what to do in bad lighting situations if you shouldn’t use the built in? Invest in an external flash. It will completely elevate the level of your photos, open new lighting options, and generally take your photos to the next level. If you generally only shoot in well-lit settings, like at horse shows, you may not need to invest in an external flash. But if you will be shooting indoors in poor lighting conditions, an external flash is the way to go.
POSTPRODUCTION TAKE YOUR PHOTOS TO THE NEXT LEVEL
O
Article by Celeste Genesse
ne of the most valuable yet under appreciated skills a photographer can possess is the skill of postproduction editing. We live in an amazing time when an “ok” straight out-of-camera file is only a few clicks away from transforming into a work of art. In this article I am going to delve briefly into the importance of postproduction as well as provide a starting point for anyone who has not yet explored the world of photo editing, no matter your skill level or camera.
Featured • Post-Production Tips
PROGRAMS TO USE WHAT IS POSTPRODUCTION? “Postproduction” includes all the work that is done to a photo after it is taken. Postproduction editing can be as simple as merely cropping an image or as complex as combining multiple captures and adjustments to create one new image. All modern photographers use some sort of postproduction and for good reason; even the littlest bit of editing can make a major difference in a photo’s overall look and quality for the better. With that said, anyone who wants their photos to look better can benefit from postproduction, not just professionals. I would like to add the postproduction is not synonymous with retouching. While all retouching is postproduction, not all postproduction is retouching. I do not support altering a photo in a manner of looking fake or deceiving.
One of the most widely used editing software in the world is Instagram. Yes, Instagram. It is a great example of how a photo is improved with some minor (and sometimes not so minor) adjustments. Almost every Instagram photo has a filter or adjustment applied to it for the sole reason that it simply looks better. The most basic modifications that can be made to a photo include cropping, rotating, contrast, saturation, and sharpness, tools which come standard with essentially any photo program. These super-simple adjustments can go a long way and are more than enough for many people. Even the most basic of programs such as Preview for Mac includes such features. Adobe Lightroom is a favourite among photographers, amateur and professional alike. It is easily the most superior RAW and jpeg file editor on the market, yet it remains extraordinarily user friendly. There is a colossal amount of different features and settings that both make your job easier and your photos look better.
Even simple modifications can make a big difference. The Eloquent Equine • 37
Something such as Adobe Photoshop is better suited for major photo adjustments such as combining photos and removing objects from photos. Gimp is a slightly more glitchy but free alternative to Photoshop that is used by many. Snapseed is the best photo editing app that I have found that is free (I spend too much money on editing software for my computer to pay for an app!). It is extremely easy to use and does a really good job of maintaining the quality of my not-sogreat phone captures.
TAKING IT TO THE NEXT LEVEL WITH RAW If you have a DSLR, you have the option to change the file type in which the camera will shoot.
More dramatic edits can be fun too!
The default and most universally recognized file type is the jpeg (or .jpg) which can be uploaded to almost any website and program. A RAW file is a much larger file that contains more information about the photo which can then be utilized during the editing process. A simple way of looking at it is that when a camera shoots in jpeg, it has to take all the parts of the photo (such as the colour of the sky and the light temperature) and compress it into one complete image file. On the flip side, a RAW file is not yet an image, but instead pieces of information that you can totally control before compressing it into one image. This is where the fun really begins. When processing a RAW file, you can not only make greater changes to a photo, but also better maintain the photo’s quality through simple edits than with any other file type. Also the security of knowing that even if you miss the mark on your camera settings, you will still end up with a salvageable photo is awesome. Once you shoot in RAW, you will never go back!
Featured • Post-Production Tips
---The best advice I have for anyone is to practice a lot and explore your program. Try out all the features that your program and camera have to offer and see for yourself how each of them effects your photos. A good rule to follow going forward is that less is more, but something is better than nothing!
SALE PHOTOS DONE RIGHT TIPS FOR HELPING YOUR HORSE SHINE IN SALES ADS
G
etting your horse to look just right in a sales photo is an art form in itself, but can mean the difference between attracting potential buyers and having your ad passed over.
So how do you get your horse to look good for sale photos? By keeping these top five tips in mind:
1. TIMING IS EVERYTHING In equine photography, timing is everything. From getting that seamless action shot to that perfectly balanced conformation image, timing is important to get all those elements you need for a perfect photo. For conformation shots, you want your horse to be standing square with the ears forward, looking relaxed through the body. Tension or stress in the body, or a wild looking eye isn’t going to entice potential buyers. You’ll want to avoid your horse being completely square, especially with the front end, because then you will create an illusion that your horse is missing a leg. To avoid this, stand your horse up so that the inside legs (closest to you and the camera) are positioned slightly wider than the outside legs (those furthest from the camera).
For riding shots, you want the image to showcase your horse’s movements, while also looking happy and relaxed. Getting perfect timing on action shots takes time, so take lots of photos so you have a few good ones to choose from. You want to select images that showcase your horse during upward movement, for example, as his front leg is extended forward during the trot. Avoid images where your horse’s legs are completely straight, or when he looks heavy on the forehand. Timing isn’t just about the moment you click the button on your camera to shoot either. The time of day you opt to take your photos plays a huge role in how they turn out. Shooting midday when the sun is high will result in harsh unpleasant shadows that won’t showcase your horse well. Alternately, shooting in low lighting or on very dark grey days won’t look good either.
Aim to plan your shoot for late afternoon (a few hours before sunset) or early in the morning before the sun has reached its apex. Days that are slightly overcast (or partly cloudy) also work great because the clouds block some of the sun, allowing only a small amount of natural shadow. This means you won’t have to worry about harsh ugly shadows no matter what time of day it is. Aim to take your conformation photos before any riding photos to avoid unpleasant sweat marks and your horse looking tired.
2. WATCH YOUR PROPORTIONS Horses are big animals, and they take up a lot of space. Shooting too close or with a wide angle lens can result in unpleasant distortion that makes your horse look out of proportion. Long focal lengths result in the best pictures, making a DSLR
equipped with a telephoto lens (150-300 mm) your best camera option. This allows you to stand away from the horse, and then take advantage of the extended zoom to frame your image, while keeping the horse in proportion. If you only have access to a point and shoot camera, ensure that when taking conformation shots you stay perfectly perpendicular to the horse to keep all proportions balanced. Front shots (head on) can be troublesome for a point and shoot camera, and often results in distortion. To minimize this, try to stand away from the horse, and use what zoom is available to you to try to balance out the shot. Stick to optical zoom for the best quality shoots, using digital The horse’s legs in the bottom left photo are too straight and the movement is too downward. In the bottom right photo the horse is moving upward, showing action in the gaits and some extension (without being too straight)
The Eloquent Equine • 41
zoom can result in unpleasant pixelation. For conformation shots, always stand facing the middle of the barrel. Depending on your height (and the horse’s) you may need to crouch, bend, or kneel to get the angle just right. Shooting from an angle that is too high or too low will make your horse look out of proportion. For head shots, aim your camera at the horse’s eye level, with the focus centered on the nearest eye. For riding shots, always position yourself in the middle of the long side of your ring.
In the top photo, there is too much background, the horse isn’t centered, and the image is unlevel. The bottom photo corrects these areas through post-production by cropping the image in, centering the horse, and making the image level.
3. PLACEMENT The general rule of thumb for sales photos is that the subject (your horse) should fill the frame. That means that your horse should take up no less than 50% of the total frame space of the photo. If you find you have too much background, either move closer to your horse, enhance your zoom, or plan to crop the image during post-production. Your horse should be placed in the center of the frame for any shot, conformation or riding, and should always be photographed on a level surface. Unlevel ground (e.g. a small hill or slight incline) can throw off proportions and be distracting to the eye.
The Essentials • Perfect Sale Photos
When shooting outside, always make sure that the sun is behind you (the photographer). Shooting into the sun will cause unpleasant shadows, flares, and spots on your photos.
4. BACKGROUND For sale photos you want to steer clear of busy backgrounds, as they deter from the overall appearance of your horse and how he is presented in an image. Plan to locate an ideal
shooting location in advance of the photoshoot to save yourself time and hassle. Look for an area that is free of clutter and distracting objects (e.g. lots of buildings, vehicles, random objects, other horses, etc.) and that complements your horse. For example, if you are taking photos of a dark bay or black horse, avoid dark backgrounds as your horse will blend into the background too much.
5. STYLE This goes for riders, horses, and handlers who will be in the shoot. You want the photo to attract potential buyers, so any and all photo subjects should look clean and professional. For horses, that means a good pre-photoshoot grooming session that includes brushing out the mane and tail, as well as the body. If being photographed under saddle, tack should be clean, fit well, and be in good repair. For conformation or in hand shots, use a clean leather halter (avoid brightly coloured nylon halters, they draw the eye and detract the viewer from looking at the horse). For riders or handlers, go for a neat and polished look (dirt stains are a no-no). Knowing your audience is also a great way to help make decisions on how to style your photos. From the placement of the legs in conformation shots, to tack and rider outfit choices, all depends on who your targeted buyer is. If you are looking for a dressage buyer for your horse, you don’t want him and/or the rider styled in hunter gear. You want your photo to stand out to its target discipline and buyer, as the photo is often what first attracts people to an advertisement.
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Shooting midday when the sun is shining can result in harsh shadows that will obscure your horse’s features.
Try instead to shoot in the late afternoon or early evening for softer lighting. Or try shooting on days that are slightly overcast.
---Getting that perfect sales shot can be frustrating, but it is an essential tool that will help showcase your horse and entice potential buyers. Be patient, and with some planning, preparation, and a bit of time, your photoshoot will go well and you’ll have some great photos.
The Eloquent Equine • 43
Digital Equestrian Magazine THANKS FOR READING!
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