Issue 9 Expat students

FILIPINOEXPAT #09

SEP/OCT 2014

Expat students

share their experiences abroad Manila chefs join Lyon’s pastry competition PLUS Managing business remotely

Vigan vies for spot in new 7 wonders cities

Marjorie Renner From ramp model to bag designer

FR EE

Experts talk about depression #09 2014

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The Filipino Expat Magazine

SUBSCRIBE NOW!

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FILIPINOEXPAT The Filipino Expat Magazine is redefining Filipino publications in Europe.

Combining quality journalism with visually engaging design, The Filipino Expat is the first lifestyle and living magazine that highlights the stories of Filipinos in Europe. Our feature stories are focused on uplifting the image of Filipinos abroad and presenting world-class expatriates who are making a difference in their adopted countries.

Veering away from politics, show business and sensational stories, The Filipino Expat provides discerning readers with a renewed sense of pride as a Filipino.

Never miss an issue again. Subscribe to The Filipino Expat by emailing your name and address to publisher@thefilipinoexpat.com and have the magazine delivered straight to your doorsteps. Our magazine is free and you only have to pay a minimal postage fee of â‚Ź12 for The Netherlands and â‚Ź20 for the rest of Europe. #09 2014

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CONTENTS

EXPAT INTERVIEWS 09 The German life Lynda Marie Sylvester enjoys the world-renowned German efficiency PERSONALITIES 10 Se Chiudo Gli Occhi Non Sono Piu Qui Filipino actors play lead roles in the latest movie of Italian director Vittorio Moroni HEALTH AND WELLNESS 12 Depression and suicide Experts talk about depression and how we can help loved ones cope with it BUSINESS 16 FilBelge Titres-Services Two former domestic workers are leading the way in professionalizing domestic work particularly for kababayans in Belgium RELATIONSHIPS 18 Scholarly love Finding love in the laboratory of Ghent University in Belgium COVER STORY 20 From ramp model to bag designer Marjorie Renner applies what she learned from her modelling days to her bag designing business FEATURES 26 Student life abroad Expat students talk about their experiences abroad

TRAVEL 34 Historic Vigan This well-preserved old city is vying for a spot in the new 7 Wonders Cities of the World 38 Bar-hopping in Manila Discover Manila’s trendiest bars 40 Adventure to the Cordillera Part 2 Dutchman Bart Wijnberg and his family continue to explore the mountains of the Cordillera 42 Escape to the Mediterranean Publisher Dheza Marie Aguilar takes time off from her business trip in Italy and Greece NEWS 45 Competing at the World Pastry Cup Two Filipino chefs represent the Philippines, for the first time, at the most prestigious pastry competition in the world

The Filipino Expat Magazine

Marjorie Renner Luxury bag designer Paris, France Photography by: Vincent Gotti

RECIPES 46 Kilawin with a twist How to prepare this typical Filipino dish with deeper flavours

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COLUMNS 14 Managing offshore business Tips on managing a successful business from abroad 15 Internet libel What to do when your privacy and reputation are being trampled online 32 Homeless in Santiago de Compostela Nats Sisma Villaluna tells us how he worked for free food and lodgings 05 06 07 08

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ON THE COVER

REGULAR FEATURES Readers’ corner Editor’s letter Contributors Events

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READERS’ CORNER

GET YOUR FREE COPIES FROM THE FOLLOWING OUTLETS: Amsterdam Sunro Remittance Rotterdam Pinoy Village Sari-sari store Carried by LVM and Pinoy Balikbayan Box to clients in Germany, Belgium, Luxembourg and the Netherlands Madrid Pinoy Central Remittance - Cosmo Cash and Carry Barcelona Cosmo Cash and Carry - Centro Filipino Philippine Consulate - BPI - Mitch Salon Mona Salon London Pinoy Supermarket - Lakwatsa Bubble Tea Lounge Kalesa Restaurant - BPI Europe - The Filipino Channel (TFC) - Manila Supermarket - Tindahang Pinoy Lutong Pinoy restaurant

The Filipino Expat likes to hear from our readers.

Keep on sending your thoughts and comments to editor@thefilipinoexpat.com.

I feel I’ve been dormant for a quite a while on one of the things I love to do -- travelling! Thanks to the Filipino Expat magazine’s last issue for it motivated me to go wandering about again. Thanks also to the writers for sharing their experiences and giving us inspiration. Travel buddies, anyone?

- Junart Kim S Nieva, London This is a great initiative! I wish you all the success in your magazine. Good to know that there are Filipinos trying to build a respectable community in Europe. We really lack information for Filipinos in Europe. Looking forward to more issues and stories online. Hope you make it big. Keep it up! God bless!

- Richie Romero, The Hague

Birmingham Click2Market Filipino store - Fiesta Salon Belfast TEN Foundations Café Brussels Small World Remittance - FilBelge Titres-Services Philippine Embassy Oostende Asia Trade store Rome RCBC Rome - BPI Rome - Megaworld IRemit Remittance - Philippine Embassy Jeepney Travel Rome Milan Filinvest Sardinia Philippine Consulate Paris Arbilo Gallery Odense Asian Store and Balikbayan Box Berlin Philippine Embassy - MA Transworld Remittance Grace Sheelah Pickert Oslo Asean World Travel The Filipino Expat Magazine also sends complimentary copies to all Filipino embassies and consulates in Europe. We also have an increasing number of subscribers.

The Filipino Expat photographer Ryan Arbilo and model Cathy Pelina Luda pose with their copy of the magazine’s travel issue.

I got my first copy of the Filipino Expat (travel issue) from photographer Ryan Arbilo in Paris. I especially enjoyed the bed and breakfast entrepreneur story.

It was inspiring, and I hope you feature more Filipino entrepreneurs in Europe in the next issues.

I’ve been based in France for eight years now, and would love to hear about the lives, the challenges and success of those like me who have made Europe their adopted home.

- Angelique Villaraza Dominici, France

* As of July 2014 Be one of our partner distributors. Email publisher@thefilipinoexpat.com

Follow us on Twitter : @filipinoexpat TheFilipinoExpatMagazine

#09 2014

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Student life To be able to study in Europe is a dream for so many of us. More than gaining further knowledge on one’s profession or another field, experiencing Europe’s cultures and traditions firsthand attracts students to the idea of finishing their master’s or doctorate degrees on this side of the world. But only a few get lucky to actually enroll in a European university either thru a scholarship or self-funding.

And hearing their stories is truly inspiring.

So many of these students are first-timers in Europe, let alone abroad. They survived, continue to survive, trusting only their instincts, guts and fate. Despite the cultural differences, the climate and the food, they learn to adapt well to their new environment and even make new friends. They eventually become Philippine “ambassadors.” Away from home, they encounter realizations, most important of which is how to make the Philippines a much better place for Filipinos. Some return; others opt to stay and learn more.

ABS-CBN broadcast journalist Ryan Chua, for instance, writes how studying and living in the UK for almost a year reopened his eyes to the ugly realities that Filipinos back home face everyday. He hopes that his renewed anger towards the ills of the Philippine society will help him become a better journalist and a better Filipino.

Meanwhile, Germany’s efficient and effective political system inspired Wilfred Dominic Josue so much that he decided to take up an MA about it in Europe and in German, at that. He was so determined, it didn’t matter that he was financing his own studies abroad. Josue envisions to impart and apply his learnings when it’s already his turn to work in the Philippine government someday soon.

After finishing his master’s degree in London, Jomel Anthony Gutierrez went back to the Philippines and worked in one of the poorest regions in the country.

He had the option to stay in Europe and live a much more comfortable life. But he chose to serve his country, to pay it forward.

On the other side of the fence, Filipino Expat’s creative director Robin Kuijs relives his journey to the Philippines’ rebel-infested mountains to finish a thesis project for his MA. He recalls sharing sticks of cigarettes with some members of the New People’s Army (NPA) one night and witnessing an actual battle between the Philippine military and the communist rebels.

Of course, don’t miss our feature on cover girl Marjorie Renner as she tells her journey from being a ramp model in the Philippines to having her own label as a bag designer in Paris. She also lets us in on balancing business and family life, sharing tips on how to lead a model life.

Travel with publisher Dheza Marie Aguilar as she spends some leisurely time in Italy and Greece. Rediscover Vigan as it vies for a spot in Unesco’s new 7 wonders cities. Check out the emerging bar scene in the Philippines.

Lastly, help support our pastry chefs who are competing in the upcoming World Pastry Cup in Lyon for the first time ever.

All the best!

Diana A. Uy Editor-in-chief

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CONTRIBUTORS

FILIPINO

EXPAT Publisher and Managing Editor Dheza Marie Aguilar

Editor-in-chief Diana Uy Creative Director Robin Kuijs Contributing Writers: Bart Wijnberg , Christopher Cruz, Dolly DyZulueta, Jacquiline de Vega, Jommel Anthony Gutierrez, Maan D’Asis Pamaran, Maria Belgado, Ryan Chua, Wilfred Dominic Josue Contributing Photographer: Rafael Zulueta The Filipino Expat Magazine Published 6 times a year

By The Filipino Expat The opinions expressed in The Filipino Expat magazine do not represent the views of The Filipino Expat company. While we have exhausted every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, neither The Filipino Expat nor its editors, contributors and staff will accept any responsibility for any omission, typographical or printing errors, inaccuracies or changes however caused. Our editorial and creative teams reserve the right to edit any material submitted at our discretion. All texts, photos and graphics have been used with the permission of the author or artists. All rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be duplicated or reproduced in a whole in any form or by any means without the publisher’s prior written permission.

Christopher Cruz graduated from the University of the Philippines Diliman.

He is studying his master’s degree in languages, literature and foreign civilizations at the University of ParisSorbonne. He used to work for the Department of Labor and Employment and former PTV 4 as writer/researcher.

He currently works as an English tutor and translator in different government agencies in Paris including the French Bureau for Immigration and Integration and the Administrative Court of Paris.

Aside from his part-time jobs, he has regular writing and photography gigs.

Jacquiline de Vega still prefers Filipino cuisine despite staying in Rome for six years now. Her tapa is the most requested dish during fun weekends with friends or relatives. Jacke spends her free time reading fiction or engaging in weekend photowalks around the city of Rome. She dreams of seeing Kobe Bryant in action someday. She is an Eeyore collector. You can bribe her with a gelato or chocolate anytime.

Comments and complaints should be addressed to: The Publisher The Filipino Expat Magazine Lorentzlaan 74 3112KP Schiedam The Netherlands Telephone +31 (0) 624407692 Email publisher@thefilipinoexpat.com advertising@thefilipinoexpat.com Website www.thefilipinoexpat.com

Dolly Dy-Zulueta is the writer and recipe developer behind www.flavorsoflife.com.ph. She studied culinary and baking courses at the Center for Asian Culinary Studies in the Philippines and other cooking institutes.

She has been editor of Flavors Magazine for 14 years now. Her hectic schedule also includes handling the “Weekend Chef” column of TV5’s www.interaksyon. com, being a resident foodie of www.herword.com, and writing for Asian Dragon magazine.

Maria Belgado is a freelance writer currently based in Manila and South Korea. A graduate of Ateneo de Manila University, she continued her studies at Pratt Institute in New York City. After completing her certificate in digital and interactive design, she moved to San Francisco where she worked for an integrated marketing communications firm for two years. She currently spends her time writing for Philippine publications, as well as American and European companies and traveling around the Philippines and Asia.

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EVENTS

JUL/AUG2014

Fashion Extreme Paris Sep 14 Les Salons Vianey Paris, france

Adicon Masquerade Gala Sep 27 Sheraton Hotel Stockholm, Sweden

Paris Fashion Extreme is the first ever fashion and make-up show featuring 30 models, six designers, 12 make-up artists and 12 photographers in one venue. The participants will showcase their talent in freestyle makeup, mixing traditional and neoteric fashion designs.

The event will be held from 3 to 8 pm, at Les Salons Vianey, 98 Quai De La Rapée, 75012 Paris. For more information, visit the event’s Facebook fanpage, Fashion Extreme Paris.

The most awaited Filipino gala happens once again in Stockholm. Adicon Charity Organization will hold its yearly masquerade ball for the benefit of underprivileged children in the Philippines. For more information, email vangierebot@hotmail.com or visit www.adiconcharity.org.

Kulturang Pilipino Oct 11 Fana Kulturhus Bergen, Norway Fiber Philippines in Oslo Oct 11 Clarion Hotel Royal Christiana Oslo, Norway The Philippine Women’s Organisation in Norway, together with the Philippine Embassy, is bringing the very successful

Fiber Philippines to Norway. The fashion show will feature the work of Iloilo-based designer Jaki Penalosa. Her creations are made of Philippine fibers such as hablon and piña.

For tickets and details, call (+49) 913 21 968.

Hawak Kamay organization will present its yearly event showcasing Filipino cultures and traditions in Bergen, Norway. This year’s theme will highlight the Ifugaos, featuring their folk dances and traditional costumes.

For tickets and more information, visit www.hawak-kamay.org.

Legendary concert The 70’s Superband was back in the UK last August due to popular demand.

Side Projects Productions, in partnership with Simply C, PR & Events, also brought the group to the UK for a series of concerts last April.

The 70’s Superband is composed of Philippine music legends like Snaffu Rigor (Cinderella), Mon Espia (Labuyo), Rey Magtoto and Nonoy Tan (Wadab), Monet Gaskell (VST & Co.) and the Mallillin Brothers, Nitoy and Jun (Boyfriends/ Abrakadabra). They debuted as 70’s Superband in 2010.

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EXPAT INTERVIEWS

Loving German efficiency

Lynda Marie Millares-Sylvester Teacher Berlin, Germany

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ynda Marie Millares-Sylvester moved to Germany in 2004.

She’s been living in Berlin since 2005. She’s a mom to two girls aged 6 and 2 and works as a primary school teacher at a State school in Berlin.

What made you decide to move to Berlin?

My German husband and I used to live and work (we are both teachers) in Bangkok, Thailand. He needed to go back to Germany to take the State Examination for teachers (similar to our LET) to be fully qualified to teach in Germany. Since we saw ourselves living in Germany in the future, we decided that it is prudent that he goes back to do this test. This was in 2004.

What do you love about living there? The things you are still not used to or you dislike?

Many things have been said about German efficiency but what I really love about being here is that the buses and trains are ON TIME! If the train is scheduled to leave at 12:03, it is there on the platform at 12:03. You can really depend on the schedule advice of the transportation webpage to set meetings.

Coming from the Philippines (and even in Thailand) where everybody is friendly and warm, I do find the

Germans cold and abrupt. I do think it still shocks them to have a stranger smiling at them. They would not smile back, mind you.

What were the difficulties, challenges in moving to and living in Berlin?

The primary difficulty that I encountered was the language. Many Germans do speak English but the level is very basic. You can expect better service if you spoke German.

What are the realizations/ learnings in living in Europe?

Filipinos CAN compete with Europeans even with a degree from the Philippines. I got my education degree from UP Diliman and it is highly recognised here in Germany.

Filipinos DO follow traffic rules if they know that the consequences are effectively implemented. And I always say this after living for so long abroad

and meeting people from different cultures and nationalities: Filipinos are really one of the most hardworking, intelligent and loyal people that you can employ.

What’s everyday like for Filipino expats in Berlin?

The day starts with preparing for work and ends with time for family and the occasional down time with friends.

Sundays are still reserved for church and Filipino gatherings.

Tips for Filipinos who want to move to Berlin?

First is to come here with a basic knowledge of the language. Second is to have original copies of your qualifications in the event that you would want to work. The Germans are big on certificates and diplomas.

Third is to never forget to continue to be warm and hospitable even if most of those around you are not.

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PERSONALITIES

IN LEAD ROLES

by Jacquiline de Vega

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t was last year’s Rome International Film Festival when I became a follower of Se Chiudo Gli Occhi Non Sono Piu Qui (If I Close My Eyes I’m Not Here), an Italian movie featuring three Filipinos in lead roles. It was directed by Vittorio Moroni and features Mark Manaloto as Kiko, a Fil-Italian teenager, Hazel Morillo as his mother, and Marilou Kim de Quilla as young Kiko.

Since then I have been on a constant lookout for the film’s progress. It has been shown at the Santa Barbara International Film Festival in California, Sudestival 2014 in Puglia, and Laceno d’oro Film Festival in Laceno, Campania. The film is now ready for national screening on Sept. 18 in Italy.

It took Vittorio four years to complete the film story, travelling around Thailand and the Philippines to get inspiration. With the Philippines being wellrepresented in Italy, the director ended up choosing Filipinos as the film’s main characters.

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THE MOVIE Located in the northeastern part of Italy, Friuli is home to Kiko and his mom, Marilou. The 16-year-old is forced to work together with other illegal immigrants in a construction site, wherein the foreman is his mother’s lover, Ennio. Still mourning his father’s death, Kiko struggles with being misunderstood, affecting his school performance. Then he meets Hector, supposedly his father’s friend who offers to help him in his studies. He doesn’t know Hector is hiding a dark secret.

What struck me the most about the movie is that almost everyone plays a misconstrued character. For instance, Ennio’s antagonistic character towards Kiko is simply because the foreman doesn’t believe in the importance of school, knowledge, culture. So he forces Kiko to stop dreaming and start working hard to help his mother and him.

The film is not only about a Filipino teenager who

“THE FILM IS NOT ONLY ABOUT A FILIPINO TEENAGER WHO ISOLATES HIMSELF FROM EVERYONE BY TAKING REFUGE IN AN ABANDONED BUS. THE NARRATIVE ALSO TALKS ABOUT DROPPING OUT OF SCHOOL, MIXED MARRIAGES/RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN TWO CULTURES, THE INTEGRATION OF SECOND GENERATION OF IMMIGRANTS, THEIR SAID EXPLOITATION, AND DEALING WITH THE LOSS OF A FATHER.”

isolates himself from everyone by taking refuge in an abandoned bus. The narrative also talks about dropping out of school, mixed marriages/relationships between two cultures, the integration of second generation of immigrants, their said exploitation, and dealing with the loss of a father.

Vittorio Moroni Moroni is from Sondrio. He has been to the Philippines a lot of times. He was recently on the beautiful island of Palawan.

He started with creating short-films. Right after winning the Nanni Moretti’s Sacher Silver award and Universal Studios Award for Eccesso di Zelo (Too Much Zeal), he decided to focus on doing full-length films.

Part of his prize for the Universal Studios Award was a masterclass in Universal Pictures in Hollywood. Among his achievements include winning twice the Premio Solinas for Il sentiero del gatto (The Path of the Cat) and Una rivoluzione (One Revolution), among others.

Mark Manaloto Manaloto was born in Rome but grew up in the Philippines. He recently finished taking the Esame Di Maturita or the final State exam for secondary education in Italy. He didn’t take any acting lessons when he auditioned for the film.

It took three meetings before Manaloto received the phone call telling him he got the part of Kiko.

Manaloto worked alongside top caliber Italian actors like Giorgio Colangeli, Beppe Fiorello and Ivan Franek. He looks up to Filipino actor Coco Martin for inspiration. While he considers the

many opportunities that could land his way after his first acting venture, he still plans to become a mechanical engineer someday. “Gusto ko kasi ituloy yung pangarap ni papa na maging engineer. Hindi po nya natapos ‘yun dahil pumunta po sya dito sa Italy,” says Manaloto.

Manaloto, a second generation immigrant, hopes the film will inspire Filipinos not only in Italy but in the whole world.

Hazel Morillo This Filipina from the coastal town of Ancona arrived in Italy when she was still young. She had worked as a hairdresser in a parlor in Ancona. Upon hearing about the auditions, Morillo bought a train ticket to the audition venue and lined up with hundreds of others vying for the role. She was all made up and fashionably dressed that she had a hard time convincing the casting director that she was perfect for the role.

So she washed off her make up, dressed down and auditioned again. The rest is history.

Morillo wants to prove that there are Filipinos in Italy who excel in other fields beside domestic work.

Kim de Quilla Born and raised in Rome, Italy, De Quilla feels very fortunate to be part of the film. Moroni spotted Kim and his mom at a tabacchi (store in Italian) and followed them up to the bus stop. Convinced he had found his young Kiko, he told the mother to let Kim audition. It would be Kim’s first time to act.

When asked where De Quilla got his acting skills, he says, “Da mia mamma (From my mom)!”

#09 2014

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HEALTH

Understanding depression and suicide

by Diana A. Uy

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epression is a common mental disorder says experts. Everyone experiences sadness or loss of interest. However, when it is already affecting our daily functioning like going to work or school or taking care of the family, that’s when it becomes an illness. The feeling can be long-lasting. At its most severe, depression can lead to suicide.

At the open forum dubbed “The Scoop on Suicide: Deconstructing Depression” held in the Philippines recently, the panelists mentioned factors like being away from the family and adjusting to a new environment, the climate and the food cause depression among expats and immigrants.

“Sometimes it’s not the presence of risk factors but the absence of protective factors that causes depression,” said psychiatrist Dinah Nadera, consultant for mental health and psychosocial support at the World Health Organization (WHO) Philippines.

Malyn Cristobal of Living Free Foundation.

Citing a study by the Overseas Workers Welfare Administration (OWWA), Nadera said that depression has been the leading cause of disabilities and deaths

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“SOMETIMES IT’S NOT THE PRESENCE OF RISK FACTORS BUT THE ABSENCE OF PROTECTIVE FACTORS THAT CAUSES DEPRESSION.” especially for overseas Filipino workers (OFWs) since the 1980s. As such, a psychosocial package has been included in their PhilHealth benefits.

Nadera clarified that depression is a health issue.

It is not dependent on the situation or location of a person. “Each one of us has our own vulnerabilities particularly when it comes to mental issues,” she said.

Some signs of depression include feeling anxious, getting tired easily, difficulty in making decisions or focusing, lack of sleep, and even anger. “A lot of depressed people are very angry. It is anger turned inward,” said Malyn Cristobal, addiction counselor and founder at Living Free Foundation, a non-profit counseling and activity center in the Philippines.

Depressed people are considered suicidal, according to Cristobal, when they already talk of wanting to die, seek methods of ending their lives, or start making preparations like saying goodbye or giving away possessions. Hopelessness and social withdrawal or isolation are some of the indirect warning signs of persons with suicidal tendencies.

Cristobal added that some suicidal behaviors are non-observable.

“When they talk about suicide, take it seriously,” said Cristobal. “Encourage them to talk more.”

“The listener should show genuine interest,” added Petra Maierhofer, occupational therapist at In Touch Community Services, a group that provides counseling and support to locals and expats in the Philippines.

Cristobal said that education is the best prevention of suicide. “It’s ok to ask for help.”

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ONE WEALTHY NATION

by Francisco J. Colayco

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s it wise to put up a business and manage it remotely? For example, if you set up a restaurant business or a rental apartment in the Philippines, while you’re in Europe, how do you properly manage it? How do you make it grow while you’re away? What are the things to watch out for, tips, etc.

MANAGING YOUR BUSINESS FROM AFAR Considering the ties with family/ friends of all Filipinos, it is likely that you, a Filipino working abroad who wants to prepare for retirement back in the Philippines might be enticed to set up a business in the Philippines with someone whom you trust. More likely than not, the business would be a partnership with your spouse or child or sibling and every so often, maybe a childhood friend who is considered “family.”

I assume that you are one of many Filipinos who have a good job in Europe and can provide the necessary cash to start up a business and you well know that all jobs come to an end. Sooner or later, you have to retire and you want to ensure that the business you set up would be a major source of income during your retirement. You would have your choice of the best business for you given your knowledge and your environment.

There is a further concern because it is not only your personal knowledge of the business that is required but also the personal knowledge and capability of the person you will entrust to set up your business and to run it while you are still not retired and still living in Europe. And assuming, you have such a manager, your next concern must be how to best track the movement of cash flows and the size and cost of operations. You have to be sure that you have access to timely and accurate financial and operational reports.

A reminder, the failure rate of new businesses is very high. In fact, as I keep saying, going into business is one of the most, if not the riskiest investments.

It is said that less than 15 out of 100 succeed in start-up businesses in the first five years. Before you invest in any business, you have to make sure that you know that particular business and are willing to accept the attendant risks therein. You need to weigh these considerations and assess whether or not the size and risks of the desired business are consistent and feasible with given the make-up of your Personal Statement of Assets and Liabilities.

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Managing businesses remotely Make a personal financial plan on how much you will need as your move towards your retirement. The final decision is yours depending on your personal financial situation. You can only determine what is right for you if you have specific short (like for every month and year) and long (like for the next 5 to 10 years) term financial goals.

“IF YOU CAN TAKE THE RISKS OF A BUSINESS, FOCUS ON WHAT YOU REALLY KNOW TO GIVE YOURSELF A BETTER CHANCE OF SUCCESS. THOSE WHO SUCCEED ARE USUALLY THE TRULY PASSIONATE ONES ABOUT THE SPECIFIC BUSINESS THEY ENTER.” If you can take the risks of a business, focus on what you really know to give yourself a better chance of success.

Those who succeed are usually the truly passionate ones about the specific business they enter. Their passion makes them really look for ways and means to learn the business on their own. Do not plan on the basis of depending on others. If you already have some ideas of the possible businesses that you could get to like, study these as early as possible. Take time and observe how your choice business is operated, train for it and if necessary, look for a way to be an apprentice in that business.

These tips on how to prepare to set up the business definitely applies at least equally to your “partner.” Do not assume that you can run your business by “remote control.” You need to find a competent “partner” with established integrity and honesty and with whom you can have a clear agreement stated in very certain terms. If you cannot trust your “partner” to think and operate the way you would, based on your clearly stated terms, don’t even think about that particular “partner.” Finding the right “partner” is critical.

In any business, all investors must have a clear agreement on the fundamental rules and policies that will govern the operations of the business.

These must be written down and specifically agreed upon by all partners

and investors before the business gets started. Among the critical items that must be addressed in this investors agreement are the following: 1) A procedure on how rules can be changed and who are authorized to implement such changes; 2) An agreement on how to settle disputes among partner investors; and 3) An exit provision that defines how the investors may liquifiy his shares.

MORE NOTES BEFORE STARTING A BUSINESS The successful ones study the business thoroughly first before they put out any money from their pockets. Be sure to have a good analysis of the cash flows and returns that your chosen project will give you. Make several projections using different assumptions of worse situation, best situation and most likely situation. Be prepared with your plans for each type of situation especially for the worse one. This is not being pessimistic; it is being prepared. For example, in a rental apartment project, you must always assume that there will be periods when some units will be vacant.

Another fundamental rule in running a business is proper accounting of income and expenses. When you all agreed to form this business, each of you must realize that you cannot mix personal and business accounts. All involved in the management of the operations should be drawing a salary or a regular allowance. As much as possible, collections whether cash or check, should be in the name of your company and not in the name of individuals. All the partners must be professional enough to deposit collections to the company account.

There must be reports agreed upon from the start in formats that everyone understands and with time frames clearly stated. You really have to talk together in a truthful and transparent manner. Each of you must define your individual goals and expectations and each of you must eventually agree on what each one must be responsible for and what each one is entitled to.

Unfortunately, there is no sure return in any venture. If a business managed from afar is too complicated for you, there are mutual funds and UITFs that you can invest in. You can check out www.colaycofoundation.com and www.franciscocolayco.com for more information. Or you could be part of our businesses as explained in www.kskcoop.com.

LAW CORNER WITH ATTY. CAT

INTERNET LIBEL

by Chona Abiertas

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he near necessity of social media sites like Facebook has grown tremendously in the last few years helping small businesses make connections, giving freelancers and students the chance to network with people they’d never be able to meet otherwise, and allowing a place for all kinds of interest groups to chat and make friends online. Crimes have also become apparent involving social networking sites. The most common of these crimes are libel and slander, threats, intimidations, fraud, sex offenses, blackmails etc. Let’s define these terms to help you avoid being a victim or the offender.

LIBEL AND SLANDER Collectively known as defamation, libel and slander are civil wrongs that harm a reputation, decrease respect, regard, confidence or induce disparaging hostile, disagreeable opinions or feelings against an individual or entity.

The injury to one’s good name or reputation is affected through written or spoken words or visual images.

Under common law, to constitute defamation, a claim must generally be false and has been made to someone other than the person defamed.

Spoken defamation is called slander, and defamation in other media such as print, videos or photos, including posts in social media is called libel.

In 2012, the Philippines enacted Republic Act 10175, titled the cybercrime Prevention Act of 2012.

This Act provides that libel is criminally punishable and describes it as libel that’s been committed through a computer system or any other similar means which may be devised in the future.

Typically, the elements of a cause of action for defamation include: 1. A false and defamatory statement concerning another, 2. The unprivileged publication of the statement to a third party 3. If the defamatory matter is of public concern, fault amounting at least to negligence on the part of the publisher; and 4. Damage to the plaintiff.

Most jurisdictions also recognize ”per

se” defamation, where the allegations are presumed to cause damage to the plaintiff. Typically, the following may constitute defamation per se: 1. Attacks on a persons professional character or standing 2. Allegations that an unmarried person is unchaste, 3. Allegations that a person is infected with a sexually transmitted disease 4. Allegations that the person has committed a crime of moral turpitude, There are numerous other defamation issues beyond the scope of this general overview. A particularly new form of defamation is in the arena of posts on the Internet.

Under the Spanish Penal Code Article 206, Slander is punishable with imprisonment from six months to two years or a fine of 12 to 24 months or a fine of six to 12 months. Article 209 stated that libel is punishable with a fine of six to 14 months and in other cases fine of three to six months.

THREATS Threats consist of the announcement of future unlawful acts imposed and determined, in order to cause fear. Evil has to be possible, in the sense that the recipient may have reasons to believe in its credibility. The victim has no control over the events and is triggered by solely completion of the acts imposed.

The threat is intended to disturb and cause harm and to exert pressure premeditated to terrorize the victim. A threat is a crime of mere activity.

IMPERSONATION OF IDENTITY OF INDIVIDUALS Impersonation of identity of an individual involves assuming a false identity with the intent of gaining benefit for oneself or harming others.

Offenders shall be punished with imprisonment of six months to three years.

BULLYING Bullying is the use of force, threat, or coercion to abuse, intimidate or aggressively impose domination over others. The behavior is often repeated and habitual. Justifications and rationalizations for such behavior sometimes include differences of

“BEING A VICTIM OF CYBERCRIME IS A TRAUMATIC EXPERIENCE FOR ANYBODY. THE PURPOSE OF THIS ARTICLE IS TO SPREAD AWARENESS REGARDING THE DANGERS THAT ONE COULD BE EXPOSED TO. FINALLY, ALL DETAILS THAT WE POST AND SHARE ON FACEBOOK CAN BE PERMANENT. BE CAREFUL. SAFEGUARDING YOUR PRIVACY DEPENDS ON YOU.” class, race, religion, gender sexuality, appearance, behavior, body language, personality, reputation, lineage, strength, size or ability. If bullying is done by a group, it is called mobbing.

Bullying consists of four types of abuse: emotional (sometimes called relational) verbal, physical and cyber. It typically involves subtle methods of coercion such as intimidation.

Cyberbullying is any bullying done through the use of technology.

This form of bullying can easily go undetected because of lack of parental/ authoritative supervision. It is the most anonymous form of bullying.

Cyberbullying includes abuse using email, instant messaging, posts on websites, social networking sites, etc.

Particular watch dog organizations have been designed to contain the spread of cyberbullying.

Being a victim of cybercrime is traumatic for anybody. The purpose of this article is to spread awareness regarding the dangers that one could be exposed to. All details that we post and share on Facebook can be permanent. Be careful. Safeguarding your privacy depends on you.

To know more about cybercrime or for other legal concerns, call the lawyers of CAT LAW FIRM S.L.P. at 930153727 or 635878688. Their offices are located on Calle Aribau no. 176-bis 1-2 08036 in Barcelona and at P{inoy Central in Madrid located on Calle General Margallo Mezzanine #9 28020 Madrid. Call 91 0149993. You can also email your concerns to advocats.catlaw@gmail.com or abogados.catlaw.madrid@gmail.com.

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BUSINESS

Professionalizing domestic work

by Dheza Marie Aguilar

B

etween Raquel Crisostomo and Thelma Nullar is more than 30 years of experience in domestic work. Both women worked as au pairs, nannies and cleaners for different ambassadors in Brussels, Belgium, including the Danish and British ambassadors. Diplomats from NATO also hired them to clean their homes.

The two would always bump into each other during Filipino community events and later, while working as real estate agents, they became friends. Two years ago, Crisostomo and Nullar finally ventured into creating a business out of something they knew best -domestic work. In October 2012, they officially launched FilBelge Titre Services in Brussels.

DIFFICULT START Crisostomo and Nullar did not quit their jobs right away after they secured their permit to operate. They worked on their business at night, contracting workers, and collecting dienstencheques (service tickets). Administrative work were done after their regular jobs. They managed their workers even until midnight.

Nuller, who at that time was studying business management, had an extra difficult time because of her two children. She would put them on their

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school outfits when they go to bed so that she can bring them to their school right away in the morning. All these with barely a couple of hours of sleep.

Operating without an office at the beginning forced them to meet their workers at train stations, canteens and even garages. This caused many raised eyebrows in the Filipino community.

Even some friends and family did not believe that their business would succeed.

“I told Raquel, don’t mind those criticisms, our time will come. And now they are seeing that the business is real and operating,” says Nullar.

Both also had to learn how the business system in Belgium works. So they also had difficulties with most of the government requirements and documents.

The two persevered and ignored their naysayers, believing that they are offering quality service. They come highly recommended by the diplomats whom they’ve worked for in the past.

“The diplomats are telling us that they would not be able to do their jobs without us nannies and helpers taking care of their houses and children. We are an integral part of the international community here,” says Crisostmo.

In June 2013, they were able to move to

their office in Etterbeek in Brussels.

PRIDE IN DOMESTIC WORK Domestic work is one of the industries where majority of Filipinos abroad, women especially, are employed.

The wave of Filipinos going abroad to work began in the 70s. The 90s saw another wave of Filipino women going to HongKong to work as domestic helpers.

This diaspora continues up to this day.

Being a domestic helper is looked down upon in many cultures, including the Philippines.

For the owners of FilBelge, domestic work is a decent and professional job just like any other. And in this kind of work, Filipinos excel.

“Once na sinabi mong Pilipino, 95 percent of clients know that we are very good in this kind of job. And when you say FilBelge, they already know that the workers are Filipinos because the owners are Filipinos,” continues Nullar.

Because of their good track record, FilBelge is the only domestic manpower agency advertised in the Danish, British and American embassies.

They managed to maintain their good relationship with their former employers who are now their friends.

“Filipinos are very honest workers.

Despite the hard work, domestic

helpers are well compensated here,” adds Crisostomo.

In FilBelge, workers are earning €11.25 per hour with holiday pay, sick leave and separate transportation, clothing and meal allowances.

“WHEN YOU GO INTO BUSINESS, THE EFFECT WOULD BE A CHAIN REACTION. SO IF A FILIPINO OPENS A BUSINESS, WHO WILL THEY EMPLOY? FILIPINOS AS WELL.”

STARTING OUT There was a time that the two were ready to give up their domestic jobs and look for a less labor-intensive environment. But during the recent economic crisis, jobs were scarce so they decided to venture into business.

For Crisostomo, she decided that it was the right time for her to stop with the rigorous schedule of cleaning a house and taking care of children. The backbreaking work was taking its toll on her. Besides, she already reached her self-imposed deadline on working for others.

“When I came here, I gave myself a deadline – from when I am going to get my residence permit to how long I am going to do domestic job and when I am going to get out of manual labour.

If Filipinos want to achieve something else for themselves, they have to set a deadline for themselves.”

Crisostomo advises domestic helpers not to be complacent especially when they are already earning enough to feed their families. She emphasizes that more than the financial gain, going into business will also benefit the Filipino communities in Europe and maybe even at home.

“When you go into business, the effect would be a chain reaction. So if a Filipino opens a business, who will they employ? Filipinos as well,” explains

Crisostomo.

She adds that the Filipino diskarte helps a lot. In the beginning, Crisostomo, who was formerly a marketing manager at Filipino fastfood chain Jollibee, had to pretend to be a client in other manpower agencies to find out their rates and their ways of doing business as a form of market research.

Nullar feels fortunate that she can give back to her fellow Filipinos. She would help employees of FilBelge with their personal problems even if it is not part of her job anymore.

“I feel privileged that I am the one giving instead of the one receiving.

And because we came from the same sector, we care for our workers more than the other agencies. We know how it is like to do domestic work,” says Nullar.

According to Nullar, those who want to make a difference in their lives, have to start now. Not later. They should be determined to push hard no matter how tough it becomes. She says that the Filipino characteristic of being a ningas kugon will not help if they want to achieve bigger dreams.

“It is difficult. But if you are motivated and determined with what you want to achieve, you will eventually succeed.

Nothing is impossible,” she ends.

FilBelge Titre-Service now employs

55 workers. Majority of them are Filipinos. together with other nationalities like Belgians, Moroccans and Spanish.

Small capital A titre-service agency in Belgium requires a lot of paper work and is subject to strict government regulations. But once you know how to fulfill these requirements and can employ the right people, it can be a profitable business.

One of the most important aspects of this business is capitalizing on your network and connections.

Proper documentation of permits and salaries of the workers must be employed. You should also know where a big chunk of your expenses goes.

For a start-up, Nullar and Crisostomo each spent €800 for government fees and other requirements. They did not get the loan from the bank and started with a few workers, their own cars and no office to save on rent.

Expected return on investment is approximately one to two years.

Business tips

• Treat your workers well and pay them what is due them because without them you wouldn’t have a business.

• Be flexible.

• Do not overspend. Live only within your means.

• Conform strictly with government rules and regulations particularly with tax payments and workers protection.

Crisostomo and Nullar with one of their guests at the opening of their office in Brussels.

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RELATIONSHIPS

Scholarly Love

by Ryan Manicad

T

hirty-year-old Aludee Jane Andrade had only one thing in mind when she left her hometown Albuera, Leyte in 2009: finish her master’s degree in aquaculture at Ghent University in Belgium.

For Aludee, earning a spot as a scholar in one of Europe’s renowned universities is certainly a dream come true. Right from the start, she knew that a European master’s degree will be her ticket to a better life and career in the future. It was an answered prayer.

But life is full of surprises as they say.

THE BEGINNING This smart, hopeful and gutsy young lady met her match in 26-year old Zeger Van den Abeele, from SintNiklaas, Belgium.

They met during Aludee’s second year abroad. At that time, she was conducting her thesis at the laboratory of Virology where Zeger works as a laboratory technician.

“It was in the kitchen inside the lab where we actually first met. I was with a fellow Vietnamese student and Zeger was having a coffee break when he started a conversation [with us],” says Aludee.

She remembers Zeger being chatty and so cheerful, starting their friendship. “I didn’t think at the time that Zeger was younger than me.”

Zeger on the other hand thought Aludee as fun to be with, wellmannered, always smiling and very likeable.

Their casual talk blossomed into a deeper and more serious relationship.

Soon after, they were exchanging messages through Facebook and MSN. They started going out on dates and hanging out at their favorite restaurants/bars during weekends.

Aludee clarifies, “Though we saw each other everyday, we didn’t really talk so much in the lab. I was busy with my thesis and he was busy with his work. We kept it professional at the workplace.”

Striking a balance between finishing her thesis and a flourishing relationship with Zeger was not hard for Aludee. In fact, it was the mere presence of Zeger that kept her

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driven to achieve her goal. “I was fortunate that he was always by my side, encouraging me and helping me with my thesis. He understood the stress I was in during that time and he just kept me focus,” she says.

ONE SPECIAL EVENT On May 26, 2012, exactly a year and a month after being in a relationship, they got married in Zeger’s hometown, Sint-Niklaas. “Words cannot explain how happy I was during that special day.”

Her parents travelled all the way to Belgium, making her wedding day extra special.

EMBRACING DIFFERENCES Adjusting to their different cultures and traditions did not become an issue for Zeger and Aludee. “We learned each other’s cultures, norms and practices as we went along. We are both open-minded. We don’t force ourselves to do or practice something if we’re not comfortable doing it,” she explains.

According to Zeger, he has already tried eating kamayan-style. He admits that the only thing that is hard for him to grasp is the so-called “Filipino time.”

One of the things that keep them bonded is their penchant for travel. They both love to go to places new to them and experience various customs.

“I am just amazed to be in a different country and experience the differences in our cultures, learn from them and be inspired by them,” says Aludee.

In Zeger’s case, since he is now married to a Filipina, he says that he loves to travel to

Aludee and Zeger playing around. the Philippines. For him, visiting the Philippines is truly an amazing experience. What keeps him drawn to the island is the pristine beauty of its nature and of course the hospitality and politeness of its people.

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COVER STORY

A MODEL LIFE Majorie Renner succesfully transcends from being a ramp model to a world-class bag designer, using her Filipino heritage to make her mark in the European luxury scene.

Christopher Cruz tells us her story from Paris.

Photography by Vincent Gotti Hair and Make-up Josette Vigil-Jelveh Creative Director Niccanor Special thanks to GEV Magazine

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“I

DON’T REALLY THINK there are fashion victims,” says Marjorie Renner. “Personal style is relative. That is what one wants to look like.”

When she was living in the Philippines, Renner modeled for popular fashion designers like Renee Salud, Frederick Peralta, and Inno Sotto. Her experience taught her to appreciate fashion for what it is, not criticizing people for their taste in clothes nor does she allow herself to be a slave of trends.

“I don’t follow trends but I go for clothes that fit one’s personality,” she says. “Style remains, fashion fades.”

Renner can go from classic to sporty depending on the occasion. “As long as I feel comfortable with the outfit, that’s it.

I won’t wear 8-inch high heels or clothes that are too tight.”

The 5’8” beauty hardly needs stilettos. But standing next to her American husband, who is a lot taller, Renner can get away with wearing pumps.

During our interview, Renner was wearing enormous chandelier earrings and a black cardigan dusted with shimmering silver. She looked ready to walk the ramp again.

But Renner’s catwalk has now extended far beyond the confines of a fashion show. She currently manages her own line of luxury purses and is carving her own niche in Paris’ fashion scene. Her bags, under the label, Marjorie Renner Paris, are now being carried by boutiques in Paris, London, and Berlin. She also sells in Hong Kong and Beijing. Soon New York and Los Angeles. Her creations have already been featured in a couple of fashion trade shows, the most notable of which was “Who’s Next?”, an annual trade show in France participated in by upcoming designers all over the world.

Her label, Marjorie Renner Paris, has made it to Wolfgang Joop’s fashion show.

She made her own mark by using Filipino native materials combined with the latest European trends in her designs. Her bags are made from termite-eaten wood to the Tinalak fabric woven by indigenous people from her hometown, Cotabato City.

EUREKA MOMENT The idea started when she and her family were living in Beijing back in 2008.

She kept imagining a cosmopolitan, sophisticated woman dressed in the latest trends, matching the outfit with a stylish bag.

“The idea was to make the woman as mysterious as possible with the bag she’s carrying,” she explains.

Renner says it’s all about creating a

Renner draws inspirations from her Filipino roots to design her bags.

back story –imaginary or otherwise –for each clutch. The purse speaks volumes about its wearer. “Show me your purse and I’ll tell you who you are,” she says, laughing.

She humbly admits that not all ideas come from her.

Training herself to veer away from mainstream trends, she turns to discarded, often overlooked materials to create new bags.

“We always [hate] termites. I thought, why not make use of them? So I started this concept of termite-eaten wood. It creates a unique pattern on the wood.

So I put it together, turned it into a bag, and laminated it,” she says.

Travel and nature help her be more creative with her designs. Her materials can include shells like those of puka, abalone, and mother of pearl. She uses seven different kinds of shells, mixing them with other materials. She either crushes or cracks them to create interesting little fissures that run all throughout her bags like tiny fault lines.

The creation process can sometimes

be tedious and expensive. She needs to make sure that her contacts in the Philippines deliver the materials according to her specifications. There are times she would actually fly to the Philippines to personally supervise the production in the factory.

She has suppliers and factories in Cebu, Bohol, Zamboanga, Bulacan, among other places in the Philippines.

Renner takes pride in the fact that her bags create employment in her home country. For instance, it takes three to four people to create a bag.

She only chooses factories in the Philippines to produce the materials for her bags.

“Why use Filipino raw materials?

Because that’s my origin. I’m Filipino.

And I want to promote the Philippines.

I want to promote our craftsmanship.

Ninety-nine percent of my raw materials come from the Philippines,” says Renner.

She adds, “Draw inspiration from one’s ethnic heritage and design something that transcends cultural

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“DRAW INSPIRATION FROM ONE’S ETHNIC HERITAGE AND DESIGN SOMETHING THAT TRANSCENDS CULTURAL BARRIERS.”

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The Filipino Expat Magazine

barriers. That’s the key to making it to the international scene.”

LOOKING BACK According to Renner, her modelling experience helped develop her personality and aesthetic sense.

Always with fondness does she remember her days walking down the runway –a small group of 25 to 35 models, seeing each other every show, working long hours, arriving at 9 am for a show that would start at 8pm.

“We had a lot of fun.”

Renner says modelling was never part of her plan. As a teenager, she was very lanky that people would tease and call her “Miss Olive,” referring to Olive Oyl, the tall, skinny girlfriend of the popular cartoon character Popeye.

She didn’t have any idea that those very same physical attributes ridiculed by her childhood friends would be her ticket to the fashion world.

She was discovered right after moving to Manila to take up a degree in Chemistry at Manila Central University. A friend who wanted to be a model tagged her along in one of those modelling auditions. Designer Donnie de Lima spotted her and hired her instead.

“My friend was short even though she was gorgeous and dark-skinned.

But during the 80s, being dark-skinned wasn’t in vogue yet. They preferred mestizas. I was tall. That’s how I got in.”

She modeled Filipiniana ensembles created by Donnie de Lima for a while until she met another designer, Boying Estaquio, who brought her to Malaysia along with six other models for a fashion show. Choreographer Ogie Atos opened more doors for her. She also starred in a few movies and television shows. She was seen in the 80s sitcom, “Espesyal Offer,” with Anjo Yllana and Connie Angeles. She appeared in Alma Moreno’s movie, “The Secrets of Pura.” She then left for the United States to concentrate on sales and marketing for a company that sells pots and pans. There, she fell in love with and later married Christopher Renner. Years later, when Christopher was assigned to head a project in Paris, the whole family moved with him.

Exposing yourself to people onstage, she says, gives you the confidence to socialize and to mingle.

Now, she can easily establish contacts in any cocktail party without needing formal introductions.

BALANCING LIFE AND WORK The same work ethic and discipline that Renner learned from modelling are applied to her home. And the mother of three doesn’t find it challenging, at all.

Her daily routine includes dropping off her kids at school in the morning, finding her moment of solitude, using that opportunity to do

Renner uses unique techniques in creating beautiful textures for her bags.

her work. “I make sure I spend one hour on paperwork and then, the rest with my designing and research which I do at night [because that’s] when my creative juices flow.”

In between designing bags, she makes sure her kids finish their homework, or accompany them to their swim practice (her two daughters are accomplished swimmers). Whenever one of her kids comes up to her just to talk about Justin Bieber’s latest concert, she would stop what she’s doing and listen.

Her kids are a great source of inspiration too when she is designing her bags.

According to Renner, one of the kids, Miranda, already started her modelling career in Beijing, China.

She came out in a fashion magazine in China when they were living there.

She says she never forces her kids to do anything they wouldn’t like to do. “Somebody saw her and asked

her to do it.”

The kids are aware that their mom used to be a model. And they’d like to follow in mommy’s footsteps. “I don’t really encourage them. I don’t want to distract them from their studies. I want them to finish college.”

If it was all up to her, Renner says she prefers her kids take a different path. “I don’t encourage them [to become models] but if they have the inclination, why not? But they have to study first,” says Renner.

She herself was always at the top of her class at Assumption College in Davao City, where she also served as corps commander in their Citizens’ Army Training (CAT).

Renner doesn’t want to be called a workaholic. The designer knows when it’s time to focus on work, her family and herself. She doesn’t need eight or 10 hours of sleep. She knows what she wants, what she needs to do.

“When I get up, I’m ready to venture out, pursue my other goals.”

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FEATURE

EXPAT STUDENTS Four students share their experiences in studying abroad and how it changed the way they look at the world.

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HOME AT LAST, AND ANGRY

by Ryan Chua

O

n the evening I arrived in Manila after a 19-hour flight from London, the vehicle my family rented got stuck in the middle of a heavy traffic, taking us several hours to get to our house. Nothing more could have made me realize then that I was indeed home.

The next day, I went around the city I missed for almost a year, commuting like I had always done in the past. I was excited to board the MRT when, after almost an hour of waiting for the next train, a coach derailed at a nearby station and operations were suspended.

I went out of the station to ride a taxi instead, but the first one I hailed refused to take me. The driver of the second charged twice the standard fare because he would have to pass through heavily congested streets. It also rained hard that day, and many streets were flooded in minutes.

Indeed, I was home.

Nearly a year ago, I was a wide-eyed newcomer in central London, marveling at the beauty of the surroundings and the speed at which I travelled from the airport to the city centre riding the tube.

It was the beginning of my journey as one of 11 Filipinos chosen to study for a master’s degree in the United Kingdom under its government’s Chevening scholarship programme. I fell in love with the city the moment I stepped out of the underground train station, forgetting how I cried from Manila’s airport to the plane as I thought of family and friends I will not be seeing for a long time.

I had always wanted to pursue further studies abroad, and London was the perfect place to do it. After months of anxiously waiting for the results of my university and scholarship applications, I finally found myself at a pub with a view of the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben, trying to finish a large serving of fish and chips and drinking English tea with milk to keep myself warm. It was exhilarating and for a time, I forgot about home.

Although I received a monthly stipend, I lived the life of an ordinary Londoner, trying hard to limit my spending to have enough funds for paying bills and taking public transportation, which I did most of the time. I walked whenever possible. At one point, I left my dorm in central London because the rent was very expensive and transferred to the relatively cheaper eastern part of the city. I also found haircuts too pricey, and so I decided to just have my hair shaved off to minimize my trips to the barbershop.

Living on my own also required doing almost everything alone, from shooting and editing video reports for class and bagging my groceries to preparing my own meals and washing my clothes. It

was challenging, but I felt proud seeing myself become more independent and responsible every day.

My studies also brought me face to face with some of Britain’s difficult realities. As a postgraduate student of journalism, I had to regularly produce stories for class, going to places that tourists would probably never see: the dark corners in the West End where homeless people found refuge amidst the biting cold, streets where those who could not afford London’s cost of living held protests, and houses where abused domestic workers gathered in solidarity with each other.

Like in the Philippines, I lived a simple life in Britain and met ordinary people in my search for stories. The UK became real to me, no longer the wonderland I romanticized. Despite the realities I saw and experienced, I still thought ordinary life in Britain stood in stark contrast to life in my own country.

Life in the UK was comfortable even if I was not well off. I enjoyed an efficient public transport system that made me blame no one but myself whenever I was late for class. Aside from riding buses and trains, I walked long distances most of the time, not only because London’s streets are clean and friendly to pedestrians, but also because I felt safe. I was never worried about getting sick because the National Health Service provides free healthcare. I rarely had to buy bottled water because tap water is safe to drink. Internet is fast.

Rules and laws are strictly followed, so much so that I could never enter a pub without an ID showing I’m over 21 years old. Rich, poor, Conservative or Labour supporters, gay, lesbian, bisexual, transgender—everyone is equal in the

eyes of the law and has the same rights.

On Aug. 11, days after I submitted my dissertation and marked the end of my studies, I left London and said goodbye to all these comforts. I was happy to be home. But seeing that the situation has barely changed was disheartening.

Old problems like the heavy traffic that welcomed me on the night I arrived were still here and even seem to have gone worse. I felt sad and disillusioned.

Most of all, I was angry—and I believe this is the most important thing I gained from living in another country.

Living abroad for several months and going back home was enough for me to feel disgusted again at the ugly realities ordinary Filipinos like me continue to face. Growing up in the Philippines and working as a journalist for half a decade, I had already grown tired of those problems and begun seeing them as normal. At some point, they were no longer news to me. Being away even briefly, however, enabled me to look at them with fresh eyes and reignited my anger.

As a journalist, my job is to tell stories, many of which have to do with society’s ills in the hope of finding solutions. I believe that my renewed anger will help me do a better job.

Instead of making me want to leave home, my anger has refueled my desire to stay and do something, and reaffirmed my belief that this is where I am needed.

Ryan Chua is a broadcast journalist, working for ABS-CBN television network in the Philippines. In 2013, he was awarded a Chevening scholarship and spent almost a year finishing his master’s degree at the City University in London.

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SURVIVING AND FINANCING MY OWN STUDIES

by Wilfred Dominic Josue

M

ost Filipino students in Germany are scholars. I, on the other hand, have to finance my studies and living expenses on my own -from applying for a Schengen Visa, to enrolling, finding a place where I can stay and paying for all my basic needs.

Let me tell you my story.

THE GREATEST MOTIVATION My master’s programme focuses on politics and German post war history.

The classes, exams, and papers are all in German. Why I took an MA in German language, you ask?

When I was still studying political science at De La Salle University (DLSU) in Manila, I had a class called comparative government and in that class I was introduced to the complexity of the German political system. I was amazed how the democracy in this country is mature enough to function well. I also learned that their democracy is rooted in its political party system and how parties collaborate with each other to form a government and work towards their parties’ collective promises. I was just so inspired that I told myself that someday I will study in Germany and study their system further because there could be something that the Philippines can learn from! I was young and ambitious back then. I told myself that I will be studying it in German so that I can understand very well the system even the smallest details.

After college, I took a slight diversion from my political science track and started learning German at the Goethe– Institut Philippinen. After three years of studying, I participated in the teacher

training program of Goethe. From 2009 to 2014, I taught German in different universities and institutions in Manila. All this time, I was saving up enough money just in case I won’t get a scholarship.

In my mind, one way or another, my dream has to be fulfilled! I did some research and discovered that studying in Germany is not that expensive compared to studying in Paris, London, or Tokyo. Some German universities don’t have tuition fees.

My application was accepted by the Free University of Berlin (FUB). I applied for a student visa at the German Embassy. After two months, I got my visa and flew to the Land of Ideas in January 2014.

LIVING ALONE In the beginning it was a struggle settling down as a foreign student -from opening a bank account, to navigating your way around the city, registering at the local city hall, looking for a job and doing all of this while the semester is ongoing. I thought they’re necessary to gain real independence. It helped that I spoke the language, allowing me to get around the city fairly easily and get to meet more people.

It is my first time to live alone, far away from my family. It is but natural to feel homesick. Good thing I eat rice almost every day and there is the Internet that I can see and talk to my family anytime I want. I don’t feel the intensity of being homesick. Being alone is also a challenge especially in terms of budgeting my monthly expenses. I normally spend around 600 euros a month to pay for

my rent, health insurance (which is a requirement for enrollment), groceries and cultural activities such as watching movies, theater shows, museum visits, clothes, or books! I have Filipino friends here who help me especially when I need small stuff such as cooking utensils, etc.

I live in a student dormitory. In the place where I am staying there is a big apartment with six rooms for each student and a shared kitchen, toilette and shower. My housemates come from different countries like Germany, Indonesia, Pakistan and Russia. It is just enriching to talk to them while eating food from their own homeland. I like eating so it is never a problem with me if I eat German or any other international cuisine. But what I like most about having international friends is the fact that I learn to open my eyes to different perspectives on world events. Hearing their stories inspires me to broaden my understanding about life and how to better enjoy it.

LIFE IN BERLIN From Berlin, you can take a plane, a bus or a train if you want to go to other German cities like Hamburg, Munich, or Cologne. It is also easy to get to other European cities like Madrid, Paris, or Rome. I am studying on a tight budget thus I am not really travelling much now.

I make up for it by experiencing the cultural life in Berlin, which is one of the most diverse and unique in Europe, as much as I can. Here, there are museums of every kind, beautiful architectural buildings, zoos, quiet gardens and lakes, clubs and bars, cheap and expensive restaurants, classical concerts in big halls or at the train stations, historical attractions which will teach you important world events and of course the Fan Mile where you watch the World Cup Games. Last July, I was lucky that I was able to watch Germany win the World Cup in Germany!

There are a lot of options I can take after finishing my studies. I could go back to the Philippines and teach or work in the government. I could also stay and study further or gain more work experience before I go back to my country. No matter what, one thing is for sure: There would be plenty of options after my studies in Germany and that is just great!

Wilfred Dominic Josue believes that the Philippines’ political system is in dire need of reform and could learn a lot from Germany.

Thus, he is currently studying his master’s degree in politics and German post-war history at the Free University Berlin. He plans to use his knowledge to educate the young minds of Filipinos in the future.

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PAYING IT FORWARD

by Jomel Anthony Villanueva Gutierrez

I

arrived in London in May 2007. The gloomy weather did not dampen my excitement to start a new chapter of my life there. I remember my first day of university. On a train going to my school, I felt myself staring out the window, unsure whether I was dreaming or not. Who would expect that someone like me who grew up in a small town in the Philippines will have the chance to study in Europe? I am grateful to my dearest Lola Gloria, who works so hard as a nurse in London, for sending me to Big Ben’s home to gain higher education.

Studying in the city was quite an experience. For international students like me, there’s a long list of things to do: museum visits, West End shows, royal events, and more. I had one year and six months of incredible university journey. The best part was learning with students from different countries.

They changed the way I look at the world. They also helped me remind myself how I should appreciate my own country and my own people.

I remember one time, my classmate, an American film graduate from New York University, suddenly asked me about Kidlat Tahimik (Eric de Guia), one of our country’s greatest artists. I was ashamed to admit that I only knew a little about him as an artist who hails from Baguio City. But she was very enthusiastic in sharing her knowledge about our own worldclass Pinoy film director especially about his short films that were introduced in their film class. I became more proud of my roots right after that unexpected conversation.

The best part of studying abroad is you become independent and you work harder to sustain your school and personal needs. I took different part-time jobs to support my studies.

I cleaned office toilets, served as a waiter, and worked as front desk officer in a hotel. I was also fortunate to have become one of the news correspondents of ABS-CBN’s news bureau in London. These working experiences made me realize that it’s not really what type of job you have but how you do it with dignity that matters in the world.

Studying in London also gave me a chance to travel around Europe. It was one of the best parts of this journey.

I travelled in Barcelona, Zurich, Paris, Heidelberg and other European cities to expand my worldview and acquire a better global perspective.

After more than four years in London, I decided to go home. Many people asked me why I went back despite the better opportunity abroad.

As someone who was privileged to earn an international education, I felt a sense of responsibility to give back, to

share what I learned.

I never expected I’d work in the government when I came back to the Philippines. I joined the regional office of the Department of Social Welfare and Development in Baguio City. The agency was instrumental in realizing my dream to work at the grass roots.

For more than a year, I travelled around the Cordillera Administrative Region, the home of Ibalois, Kankanaey, and other Indigenous Peoples’ groups in northern Luzon.

The trips allowed me to visit the poorest communities in the country.

It gave me the rare opportunity to listen to the voices of our people who live in extreme poverty. I was able to observe their way of life and witness the hardships of not having the basic needs in life.

My work in DSWD-CAR inspired me to encourage people to help the schoolchildren of the second poorest community in the Philippines, Tineg, Abra. Through the Filipino community in the United Kingdom, those children who live in a far-flung, mountainous area without electricity and proper clean water facility everyday, now have proper school materials and equipment. Serving those children without expecting anything in return is the best accomplishment I could ever achieve. Those kids will always remind me to appreciate even the little things that this world can offer every single day.

Today, every time I am asked again why I decided to return, I always tell them that there’s still a lot that needs to be done for the Philippines. I don’t want to sound very patriotic but it’s

“THE BEST PART WAS LEARNING WITH STUDENTS FROM DIFFERENT COUNTRIES. THEY CHANGED THE WAY I LOOK AT THE WORLD. THEY ALSO HELPED ME REMIND MYSELF HOW I SHOULD APPRECIATE MY OWN COUNTRY AND MY OWN PEOPLE.” the reality on the ground, many of our fellow Filipinos still need our help. Poverty is real. It affects millions of children and households in the Philippines. All of us need to act.

I also believe that if foreigneducated Filipinos and those who are still studying in different countries will remember to give back in their own little humble way, their contributions will surely provide a better future for our motherland. One single selfless act will truly change a million lives.

Jomel Anthony Villanueva Gutierrez completed his master’s degree in media and cultural studies at the University of Roehampton in southwest London. A former news correspondent of ABS-CBN The Filipino Channel in London, he produced several exclusive reports during the London 2012 Olympics, the Royal Wedding and other news events. After working for the Department of Social Welfare and Development in Baguio City in 2013, he moved to the National Economic and Development Authority Public-Private Partnership Center to head its knowledge management division.

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IN 'ENEMY' TERRITORY

by Robin Kuijs

W

here do you go for a thesis research project when you’re a Dutch student finishing a master in tropical nature conservation?

My challenge in 2005 was finding a country in the tropics where I could do a meaningful research. At the same time, have some fun and travel a bit.

I found the answer at Leiden University. It has a field station in the Philippines which is a co-operation with Isabela State University (ISU). Together with two friends and a professor at the university, I planned a trip to the Philippines to study the biodiversity of bats in the Sierra Madre mountains. We were told that the area is generally safe, and that the rainy season doesn’t mean that it’s raining all the time. With that in mind, we arrived in our destination in October 2005.

Before going to the Sierra Madre, we were advised to register with the army, to make sure we would not be mistaken with NPA rebels. To our surprise, the commander asked us why we wanted to do research in the area. He told us that Palawan is much nicer and safer. That was our first clue that it wasn’t as safe as we were told.

But we didn’t have any time to waste, since we had to acclimatise and get settled in. So we decided to brave it. Our first immersion with the locals was going to the karaoke bar and trying some San Miguel beer and Red Horse. Two weeks later, we were ready for our fieldwork in the Sierra Madre.

DIFFICULTIES One of our expeditions took place deep into the forest. To get there, we had to

take a jeepney, change into a loggers’ truck and finally hike for one day. We brought quite some equipment which meant that we had to hire 10 porters for our hike. One of the porters accidentally packed the formalin on top of the rice. When we arrived at the remote destination, we found out that the formalin had started leaking.

Without rice, we resorted to eating food from the jungle for three weeks.

Our snare traps would catch chickens.

Sometimes we’d make do with bats.

They are just as edible as any other flying critter.

It was the wet season. We had at least ten minutes of dry weather during those three weeks. The constant rain and the high humidity caused some bodily inconveniences. At the end of the expedition, my left foot had the size and shape of a jack fruit, making my left shoe useless. And lucky me, we only had to travel by foot for one day back to civilisation.

Just before arriving at the place where we could get onto a truck back home, we found out that the river which we had to cross had grown three times its normal size because of the continuous rainfall. Swimming is not really something that I’m very good at, so I was a bit nervous crossing the raging waters. However, the thought of being back to civilisation made it easier.

All of us made it safely to the other side of the river. After three weeks in the forest, even a chair was considered a luxury. Being able to sit and have a proper meal were the best things about coming back to our student home.

NICE PEOPLE AROUND During our expeditions, we met the friendliest people in remote areas. I remember staying in a sitio with only a few houses. The villagers invited us to have diner with them even though they only had enough food for their own family.

In another village, we were told that the area was infested with NPAs which made it unsafe for us to go out at night. I thought the communist rebels were fearsome warriors walking around, heavily armed eager to shoot anyone in sight. I soon found out that the opposite was true. One night, we went out looking for some frogs (yes, biology students are not normal people). Suddenly, we were shining our headlights at an NPA camp, waking some of the members. What followed was a short conversation and we were given some cigarettes. We continued our walk afterwards. This obviously changed my view of the rebels.

A few weeks later, we experienced a fight between the army and the NPA. Luckily, we got out unscathed.

TRAVEL The best part of doing research in the Philippines was of course the opportunity to travel and to get to know the culture. During our Christmas break and in between expeditions, we were able to visit some of the many islands that the Philippines is known for.

One of the most memorable trips was a weekend trip to Palaui Island in the north of Luzon where tourism is not developed and hotels are almost absent.

Another one was our trip from San Jose in Occidental Mindoro to Busuanga on a ramshackle boat.

The crossing, which we surprisingly survived, was made worthwhile when we spotted a shoal of dolphins rounding our boat.

Even though I have come back to the Philippines many times since then, the first time was a very special visit.

Because of that I will keep coming back.

The experience has also changed me quite a lot. For example, I nowadays prefer rice for breakfast and I randomly ask people if they have eaten yet.

Robin Kuijs decided to stay in the Philippines after his research ended. He worked as a photographer for two years before going back to the Netherlands.

In the Netherlands, he works as an IT professional and has his own photography business. He is also the creative director of the Filipino Expat magazine.

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BAGOONG IN MY PAELLA

by Nats Sisma Villaluna

T

welve years ago, I had an epiphany.

I had a vision of myself walking on the cobblestone streets of Spain surrounded by chatting Spaniards.

That vision became an obsession. I took up Spanish classes, opened a dollar account, bombarded a lot of Spanish universities with letters of application and stared at a postcard of Spain, daydreaming of España every day. My friends thought I was crazy but I didn’t care. I knew that one day the universe would be so sick of hearing my desperate cries to go to Spain, it would cave. My prayers were answered two years later.

Every year, the Spanish government through the Agencia Española Cooperación Internacional gives scholarships to select students from all over the world, allowing them to study masters or postgraduate degrees at any universities in Spain. I was one of the 15 Filipino scholars who came to Spain for the school year 2004-2005. I was going to Santiago de Compostela. I was going to study Masters in International Sectorial Economics. I was going to rock Spain.

The rocking part didn’t happen right away. When I arrived in Santiago one foggy September morning, I immediately went to meet the person in-charge at the economics department of the university. We had been exchanging e-mails and she knew I was still room-less. As it turned out, all student dorms had already been filled.

The Foreign Students Office couldn’t help either. “You are a bit late now.

You should have arrived a month ago,” the director told me.

For my first two days, I stayed at a pension. Every day, I found myself walking to and fro the university, pestering the Foreign Students Office for a room. I got the same sorry answer.

I ended up noting down room-for-rent ads on street posts and walls. With my broken Spanish, I checked out each of these places but it was either the room was exorbitantly priced or I’m on a waiting list. On my third day, I finally found one near Plaza Roja. Relieved and extremely thrilled, I checked out of the pension and dragged my 30-kilo suitcase to my supposed new place.

Then, my phone rang. The owner of the room had changed his mind. I walked back to the pension only to be informed by the owner, Manolo, that my previous room had already been given away.

So there I was, sitting on one of the bird-poo-stained benches of Plaza de Rosalia de Castro, staring enviously at

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From being homeless to being at home in Santiago de Compostela pigeons, so carefree and untroubled, cursing them and my luck. For almost an hour, I just sat there thinking, even doubting my decision to come to Spain: Was it all worth it? Dropping everything –my good job, brand new car, be away from my family –just to find myself homeless and alone on this side of the world? I was already contemplating spending the night at the bus station when I noticed a woman waving at me from afar.

Her name was Mena, a Portuguese mother who happened to have overheard my conversation with Manolo at the pension. She told me not to worry. She would find a room for me.

Mena was in Santiago to visit her son Pedro, who was staying at the pension with full board or pension completa, food and laundry included. As a valued client, Manolo gave in to Mena’s request. I had a room for the night.

The following day, she talked to Manolo again: Why not give me work at the pension’s bar and restaurant in exchange for free food and lodgings until I found a room for myself. Manolo and his wife, Marissa, were just too happy to have me on board, their first instant employee. The following Monday, in a corporate attire, the one I used to wear at work in Manila, I was memorizing the names of hundreds of drinks Manolo was reciting in front of me. I was to tend the bar and serve 10 students availing the pension completa.

“WHILE MY FELLOW SCHOLARS ALL OVER SPAIN WERE PARTYING WITH THEIR NEW FRIENDS OR PLANNING THEIR TRIPS TO PORTUGAL OR SOUTH OF FRANCE, I WAS BUSY WASHING PLATES AND WINE GLASSES.” While my fellow scholars all over Spain were partying with their new friends or planning their trips to Portugal or South of France, I was busy washing plates and wine glasses, mixing concoctions for loyal clients, perfecting my café con leche, waiting on tables, folding table napkins and sometimes, helping Manolo take the garbage out.

My first two weeks were not really that bad. Well, except for some unavoidable circumstances like breaking five wine glasses. Or accidentally pouring soup on one of the students. Or absentmindedly

finishing the peanuts which Manolo had prepared for clients. Despite all these, my new bosses didn’t seem to mind.

In fact, on my 29th birthday, Marissa came out of the kitchen with a big plate full of grilled lamb chops for lunch while Manolo opened a bottle of red wine. They even prepared a chocolate cake for my special day. Before leaving for Portugal, Mena had left a beautiful t-shirt for me as a birthday present.

It was one of the most memorable birthdays of my life.

School officially started third week of October. The class turned out to be a small melting pot of nationalities: Ya Ping from China, Michel from Peru, Ara and Patricia from Mexico, Gustavo from Paraguay, Julio from Chile, Sergio from Brazil, Yolanda from Galicia, Spain and then me from the Philippines.

The first few days of classes found me photocopying all the notes of Ara. I studied Spanish in Manila for two years before coming to Spain. But that didn’t help especially when some of my professors were spewing words at a speed of 186,000 miles per second.

Masters in International Sectorial Economics was composed of several modules covering European and world economics and its related sectors. One of my favorites turned out to be the Evolution and Perspectives of Latin America, Asia and Africa. First, because the professors spoke less rapido and second, because it was a chance for me to showcase my country. About 99 percent of the class was clueless about the Philippines. So whenever I could, I would inject interesting trivia and photos to spice up their interest in my country.

I still went to check out room-forrent ads posted on street posts and walls everyday. I even found myself stalking Fina, the concierge of one of the student dorms near the university to help me find a room. Well, actually, I befriended her. Okay, I bribed her with muffins during my unannounced visits every afternoon, in between my shifts at the restaurant.

One lazy Sunday afternoon, when I was about to drop the idea of having my own room, I got a call from Fina’s friend who happened to own a three-storey student building. His tenant was leaving at the end of the month. Would I fancy to rent the room? Seven days later, I was giving Manolo and Marissa goodbye hugs, thanking them for taking me under their wing for almost a month.

The new flat was a 15-minute uphill walk from the university. From the

The courtyard of the University of Santiago de Compostela.

kitchen window, I could see the old part of the city with the Cathedral looming on the horizon. It was such a beautiful sight. I would be the seventh occupant of the flat located on the third floor, sharing rent with six other students from Germany, Galicia and Brazil.

Except for me, all seemed to know how NOT to burn their food.

Months went by, I was already living the best times of my life. Our classes were only from Monday to Wednesday, from 10 am to 2:30 pm. Afternoons were reserved for watching Spanish movies, playing chess with my German flatmate, short walks in the old part of the town, and going to LanguageExchange meet-ups to brush up on my Spanish. With my “busy” schedule, I still found time studying my notes.

Wednesday nights would find me standing in front of a big map of Spain on the wall of my room, planning for short trips either within Galicia or some other cities in Spain. On Thursday nights, all the pubs and restos were full to the rafters as students normally went out to party till dawn. Fridays meant going back to their hometowns outside Santiago leaving the campuses deserted during weekends.

Studying abroad was indeed a wise decision. I learned not only about my course or about Spain but also about myself. I managed to fend for myself.

I learned more about the world. I saw things in a wider perspective. Meeting different people from all over opened my mind and broadened my outlook in life. I learned how to cherish even the tiniest details or appreciate simple acts of kindness from people I had only met for the first time. Being “room-less” was the universe’s way of letting me know that things could unexpectedly go wrong but at the end of the day, there would always be somebody, like that Portuguese lady, who would lend a helping hand.

Days turned into months and before I knew it, it was time for my thesis defense. I imagined my graduation as a formal ceremony coupled with emotional speeches and teary farewells. It turned out to be just a casual affair. For example, my Brazilian classmate was just wearing acid-washed jeans. Right after the post-graduation snacks, I ran straight to the pension to see Manolo and Marissa. They were delighted to see me.

I proudly handed them my graduation

“STUDYING ABROAD WAS INDEED A WISE DECISION. I LEARNED NOT ONLY ABOUT MY COURSE OR ABOUT SPAIN BUT ALSO ABOUT MYSELF. I MANAGED TO FEND FOR MYSELF. I LEARNED MORE ABOUT THE WORLD.” certificate, made a short speech and the next thing I knew, Manolo was giving me a very tight bear hug and a lot of warm kisses from Marissa. A bottle of champagne was uncorked and several clients joined us to toast to the new graduate. On my way back home, I walked past Rosalia de Castro square and I was suddenly transported back to that fateful afternoon where I was alone and homeless and hating the innocent pigeons in front of me. I stopped walking and fished my phone out. The happy voice of Mena rang through my ears as she showered me with congratulatory wishes. I carried on walking promising to myself not to hate pigeons anymore.

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TRAVEL

VINTAGE VIGAN

by Maan D’Asis Pamaran

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Riding a kalesa is one of the attractions in Vigan.

T

he novels Noli me Tangere and El Filibusterismo are required readings in Philippine high schools, and these works give a glimpse of life during the Spanish era. One could just imagine riding in horse-drawn carriages on cobblestone streets, attending Mass at a cavernous cathedral, and partaking of sumptuous meals served on an enormous hardwood table.

A trip to the heritage city of Vigan will make that experience possible without the help of a time machine. Some parts of the city stay true to its foundations, with several of the centuries-old mansions restored to its original glory according to the specifications given for UNESCO World Heritage sites.

LIVING IN THE PAST While there are heritage homes that are being used by their original families as a residence, some of these, such as Hotel Felicidad, offer accommodations to give tourists the opportunity to enjoy life in the 16th Century. Bonito Singson, owner of Hotel Felicidad, outfitted the lobby and rooms with authentic antiques.

Singson says he kept the house practically intact, and this is evident in the high-beamed ceilings and large windows that frame the pretty enclaves.

At the hotel, guests retire from a day of exploring to sumptuously-attired four-poster beds reminiscent of the days of old, while enjoying amenities such as air-conditioning and cable TV. He, himself, lives in one of the restored houses called Casa Caridad. While his

home is open only to special guests, there are those that are open to the public, such as the Syquia, Crisologo and Arce mansions. Guests can roam around and take snaps of the carefullypreserved artifacts while listening to the fascinating stories told by the caretakers/guides about life way back when.

One learns a lot of interesting trivia while on tour. The Syquia Mansion, the guide says, was the first Malacanang of the North. President Elpidio Quirino, who lived there when he married Dona Alicia Syquia, used to hold his official meetings at the banquet hall.

The Crisologo Mansion belonged to the late Congressman Floro Crisologo, who was assassinated inside Vigan’s St. Paul Cathedral. At the Arce Mansion, the experience becomes even more interactive, as period costumes are available for guests to dress up in and have their photos taken. Here, one learns about the layers of clothing the senoritos and senoritas of yore had to walk around in.

OLD WORLD CHARMS IN MODERNDAY TIMES Modern conveniences are available, of course, but the city is carefully planned by the local government, headed by Mayor Eve Marie Medina to preserve the town’s Old World charms. Shops offering souvenirs or even everyday items still sport the façade of the old architecture. This is true, too, with fast-food outlets offering their usual wares of burgers and fries. In Vigan,

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The Bell Tower, which was built in 1591, survived World War II.

Vigan longanisa is one of the city’s popular delicacies.

“ONE COULD JUST IMAGINE RIDING IN HORSE-DRAWN CARRIAGES ON COBBLESTONED STREETS, ATTENDING MASS AT A CAVERNOUS CATHEDRAL, AND PARTAKING OF SUMPTUOUS MEALS SERVED ON AN ENORMOUS HARDWOOD TABLE.” one gets to ride a kalesa through town, something that locals often opt to do in lieu of modern modes of transport that are also available. The rhythmic sound of horse hooves pounding on the cobblestone, as tourists head for their travel destinations such as the wellcurated museums, add to the feel of the adventure.

Among the other must-see tourist spots is the centuries-old Bell Tower in Bantay, used to warn the town against an impending attack. The tower is perched on a hill, and one can see a breathtaking view of the province at the belfry. It is said that Ilocano hero Diego Silang fought one of his battles on the grounds that tourists walk upon today. A more modern addition is the Baluarte owned by former Governor Luis Chavit Singson. It is a zoo/theme park of sorts, showcasing wildlife animals that are either caged or roaming free along the vast grounds. Outside city limits are havens for handicraft hunters, as they have a thriving burnayan (clay pot) industry and abel iloco weaver workshops

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where one can purchase handwoven cloth at bargain prices.

ILOCANO CUISINE Of course, any trip would not be complete without a taste of local culinary offerings. Vigan boasts of Ilocano flavors, using fresh produce that grows in the area. Case in point is the Pinakbet Farm, owned by Caoayan Mayor Germy Singson. Here, one can catch his own fish for lunch and enjoy the restaurant’s namesake in its freshest best, in a buffet that costs P200/head.

A cultural show comes with the meal, and the staff regales the customers with Ilocano folk songs and dances.

Bagnet is another delicacy that Vigan is known for, and the crispy, crunch deep-fried pork dish is a popular pasalubong from the province. Another heart-stopping delicacy is the Vigan longanisa,which comes packed with a punch as it is made with fresh native garlic that grows abundantly in the region. Aside from crunchy empanadas, Bonito Singson also offered the media tour group something special that one

can only have in Vigan. It is a chicken dish called pipian, where the broth is given a distinct flavor by an herb that he called pasotes. This is available only in his hometown, he says, but is known in Latin American countries, probably a result of the fact that Vigan used to be a center of commerce during the galleon trade with Mexico.

VOTE VIGAN! Sunny Vigan is made even warmer with the welcome that locals give to tourists.

They have a ready smile coupled with the hospitality that Filipinos are known for. The tourist destination is currently one of the finalists for the New 7 Wonders Cities of the World, and Filipinos all over the globe are encouraged to vote for this Northern Pride through www.n7w.com/en/cities.

Hotel Felicidad is located at #9 V. de los Reyes cor. Florentino Sts., Vigan City, Ilocos Sur. For information and reservations, call (63) 917-8568309, (63) 939-9252402, or (63) 77-722-0008, or email hotelfelicidad_ vigan@yahoo.com.

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FEATURE

TOP 5 MUSTVISIT BARS IN MANILA

T

hough Manila may not have the laid-back feel of Cebu nor the spectacular sights of Palawan, one thing visitors and locals can’t deny is the vibrant and diverse nightlife.

From super clubs to world-class restaurants, Manila has much to offer tourists and residents alike. In the last few years, the capital city’s bar scene has truly flourished, and many new establishments, from secret speakeasy bars to rooftop enclaves, have popped up everywhere. Whether you’re in town for a quick stop or staying for the long-haul, these are the top 5 bars you can’t miss.

Le Café Curieux

LE CAFÉ CURIEUX

by Maria Belgado

SPEAKEASY The last year or two has seen a proliferation of “secret” bars and pubs in the metro, harkening back to Prohibition-era style establishments, so it’s probably fitting that a bar called Speakeasy has sprung up in the Makati CBD area. Although one of the newest bars on the block (and located in a mall, which is about as Filipino as you can get) Speakeasy is by no means a lightweight when it comes to serving great comfort food and delicious drinks.

They serve western comfort food, bespoke cocktails, and beers for an affordable price. It’s not uncommon to see yuppies and other professionals dropping by for a meal or drink after a long day at work, especially those looking to try their unique signature cocktails or wide selections of single malts. The food is no-nonsense, simple, but delicious. The fresh ingredients are the star of each meal and served in generous portions. For those looking for a particular taste or style, ask the resident mixologist to whip up a personalized drink to suit your tastes.

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Speakeasy

Address: Ground Floor Unit 10, Alphaland Makati Place, Ayala Avenue Extension, Makati City Facebook: www.facebook.com/ SpeakeasyMakati Email: speakeasymakati@gmail.com Operation Hours: Monday to Saturday, 5pm – 2am Average Price: Entrees: 6.75 euros. Cocktails: 5 euros per glass, 6.73 per shaker Signature Drink: Speakeasy Standard, a refreshing drink made of lychee, fresh mint and gin.

They say in the Philippines, there are only two kinds of weather – hot and hotter, so it’s no surprise locals often seek air-conditioned environments.

However, Le Café Curieux seems to defy the norms, drawing in curious crowds to its al fresco dining area surrounded by a garden. They offer the usual cocktails, apertifs, digestifs, liquers, and shooters. But the house rums are the true stars of the show. In the back room bar, ten different jugs of rhum line the shelves, infused with a variety of flavors, from sweet bananas to spicy cinnamon. They use local white rhum to give it that Pinoy flair, while incorporating secret techniques and recipes to give it that perfect blend.

Each shot is a mere 80 pesos or 1.35 euros and a metre of 10 shots will set you back 12 euros. Of course, the traditional French food is excellent and affordable as well.

Address: Unit G1 G/F Soho Bel Air Bldg., Bel Air Polaris cor. Badajos St., Poblacion, Makati City Email: info@lecafecurieux.com Website: www.lecafecurieux.com Hours: Mon - Sun: 12:00 pm - 3:00 pm, 5:00 pm - 2:00 am Average price: Entrees: 8.50 euros. Cocktails: 5 euros.

Signature Drink: Infused rhum using techniques from the French Island of Réunion, off the coast of Madagascar.

Try the pimente, cinnamon, and banana flavours.

THE CURATOR

EXIT BAR

The Curator offers so much more than just a secret entrance. Coffee shop by day and bar by night, this place offers excellent drinks, a quiet atmosphere, and knowledgeable staff. During daylight hours, the Curator serves up excellent brews made from local beans they roast themselves. Once the sun goes down, the espresso machines are put away and the whole place transforms into a bar.

Jericson Co, co-founder of The Curator, says, “The main idea of the Curator is that there’s a history of artisans, craftsmen, blenders, servicemen and women that have brought the industry, both coffee and cocktails respectively, to really great levels and that we want to pay respect to that.” Ordering is an experience, and the resident mixologist will guide you through the process, telling you about the history of each ingredient or drink.

After paying respect to these classic cocktails, go ahead and ask for a cocktail tailored exclusively to your tastes. While the cocktails are pricey by Philippine standards, they are worth every cent.

Head over to the Corinthian Plaza, enter The Plaza Café and make your way to the, where else, exit sign at the end of the hallway and push against the wall. Soon, you’ll enter what seems like another era. The dark and cozy atmosphere is certainly a world away from the usual crowded, noisy bars in the metro.

According to the owners, Exit Bar was created so that people had an exciting, and yet relaxed place that wasn’t located in a mall or a dense commercial zone. They serve a variety of snacks, as well as beers, shots, and cocktails. On any given night, you’ll see a diverse crowd, from older patrons to students. While many expats and locals complain of the dearth of good music (as most local places usually blast out hits from two decades ago), Exit Bar offers a much more diverse sound, from Led Zeppelin to The Black Keys.

The Curator Comfort food with your favourite cocktail at Speakeasy.

Address: Plaza Cafe, Corinthian Plaza, 121 Paseo de Roxas, Legaspi Village Makati (across Greenbelt 1 and AIM).

Phone: +632 625 0305 Email: exit@plazacafe.ph Facebook: www.facebook.com/ plazacafemakati, Website: www.plazacafe.ph Average Price: Bar Snacks: 5 euros per plate Cocktails: 3 euros Beers: 1.60 euros for local beers, 5 euros for imported beers Signature drink: Pomp and Circumstance, a concoction of gin, chartreuse, grapefruit, lemon, sugar, and soda.

Address: 134 Legazpi St. corner C. Palanca St., 1229 Makati (inside Cyrano Wine Bar) Phone: +63 916 355 4129 Email: thecuratordrinks@gmail.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/pages/TheCurator/310581049064376 Hours: Mon - Thu: 7:00 am - 2:00 am, Fri - Sat: 7:00 am - 3:00 am, Sun: 7:00 am - 6:00 pm Average price: Cocktails: 8.50 euros Signature drink: Skip the menu and ask the mixologist to create a cocktail just for you.

Exit Bar

SKYE When you want to relax, have a drink, and have a spectacular view of the Makati skyline, Skye is the place to go.

Opened in 2011, this bar offers a casual ambience, perfect for a nightcap after a date or just for hanging out with friends once the weekend starts.

They offer premium bottle service like in clubs. The atmosphere is far from the hectic, frenzied feeling found in nearby clubs. They serve small plates, Spanishstyle tapas, and Intercontinental cuisine.

They also have a delicious selection of signature cocktails that are simply refreshing, plus a friendly staff to cater to your needs.

Address: W High Street Building, 28th St. corner 11th Avenue, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig.

For reservations, please contact 478 4284 or 0932 856 7593 or info@skye. ph. www.facebook.com/SkyeManila www.skye.ph Average price: Food: 5 euros per Tapas Plate, 4.20 euros per cocktail Signature drink: Skye Signature Mojito.

Skye #09 2014

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FEATURE

AN ADVENTURE TO THE CORDILLERA (PART 2)

by Bart Wijnberg

O

ur family had reached the village of Lubuagan, Kalinga Province.

We stayed overnight in the house of Mr. Sapi Bawer. We talked about a lot of topics that included musical instruments. He showed me some nose flutes and a couple of them were donated to me later on. Very much appreciated. He also showed me some gongs and even called upon three young men to do a dance together. I had a private theater performance but it was not theatrical. It was a glimpse of their real life as Kalingas. I felt greatly honored.

Mr. Bawer’s home is a remarkable place. Beautiful architecture, exquisite wall linings in the living room, and most interesting pictures on the wall.

Our guide Ruel explained that the black and white pictures were unpublished pictures taken by the famous photographer Masferré . The picture of a lady, sitting on a chair, wearing only a skirt, was a picture of his grandmother.

I failed to ask one of Mr. Bawer’s daughters, Mimi, when the habits of the grandmother had gotten lost. Any Kalinga dance performed nowadays, shows fully dressed ladies. I did dare to ask one daughter about her tattoo. One of her arms bore a traditional tattoo.

She was proud of it, and told me she

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would have her other arm tattooed in the near future.

Ruel, our guide, took us out for a little visit to the house of a traditional weaver. The technique is that she uses her body, especially her back, as part of the loom. She herself is part of the loom. I wondered for how many centuries has this tradition been going on and how many more decades would it survive. If a decent wage would have to be paid, the patterns would become as expensive as Persian rugs.

TABUK AND POOL RULES We continued our trip northeast. The mountains started to get lower, and we ended up in the Eastern lowlands of Mountain Province. We stayed at Tabuk, a big city with a lot of space. We had been told that in the whole Chico Valley curfews are imposed to prevent violence between rival groups, possibly also NPA vs. the Army. We stayed at the Golden Berries Hotel. Comfortable but with a very cold swimming pool. I always love the pool rules that are posted. The first rule here was: Please wear proper swimming attire. In case that would not be totally clear, the text went on: bathing suits and trunks or shorts above the knee only. No misunderstanding possible. I like that. In my country such a

text would mean: no nudity.

CONNER – KABUAGO, DOG MEAT Back in the 1970’s I bought a map of the Philippines made by National Bookstore.

I had always been puzzled by a town by the name of Conner because it sounds un-Filipino and mysterious. I have not been able to trace the origins of this town’s name. But it turned out to be just a regular village. We had pancit canton in a roadside panciteria, which opened especially for us by a nice young couple.

We ended the day in the capital of Apayao Province, Kabugao. The end of the world, or so it felt. We stayed at a simple lodging house called Pattag’s. We wanted to have dinner in town but the menu was not appetizing – includes dog meat – so we decided to improvise with a dinner of eggs and tomatoes al fresco.

BACK TO TABUK We were supposed to have headed west, to go to Laoag but we found out that a bridge was under repair. Given the intense traffic of at least five cars a day, and given the option of going from Kabugao via the Northern coastal road to Laoag, the Department of Public Highways had not deemed it necessary to provide for a local bypass. That meant we had to backtrack! So, back to Tabuk we went, albeit via a slightly

more easterly route.

Somewhere before Pinukpuk Junction we could make a left, which would bring us to Isabela province.

Lowland, and cemented! Via Solana, and skirting Tuguegarao and a beautiful access bridge to that city, we went back west via Rizal, Kalinga.

A scenic route to approach the mountain ranges of the Cordillera from the East.

We ended up in the same hotel.

Our company was a bit tired after so many days of continuous driving so we decided to take a day rest in Tabuk. As the celebration of Apayao day was approaching, the hotel rates doubled. We were reminded that we could not use credit cards, as no reliable link could be established to the credit card center. We were lucky that my sister-in-law brought enough cash to bail us out.

TABUK TRADE FAIR AND 1000 GONGS On our rest day we decided to visit the Ullalim Agro-Industrial Trade Fair, one of the highlights of the 19th Kalinga Day and 2014 Ullalim Festival celebrations. Ullalim is an epic song of the Kalinga people depicting the struggle of Banna and Lagunwa who were the main characters of the love story.

The market had about 60 exhibitors in a number of stalls selling local products ranging from woven products, processed foods, handicrafts, ornamental plants, among others. The next day would be a “1000 gongs” exhibition. We thought that it would be a spectacle, but not necessarily very traditional.

Our guide did not urge us to stay.

We decided to move on.

UNTRAVELED ROADS: TABUK – PARACELIS – NATUNIN – BARLIG - BONTOC After Tabuk we wanted to avoid backtracking. One option would be to go west, to Bangued. We then could go down the coastal road and head East again via Bessang Pass to Cervantes.

When I asked our guide about this proposal to go via Bangued, he frowned. “Rough road all along that stretch”. So we decided instead to go south, and to take the road to Paracelis.

PARACELIS: PARADISE LOST I did not know that Paracelis was such an important place, so I did not ask to stop. There was this book entitled “Sinaunang Habi,” which contained many really beautiful examples of weavings and cloths from Paracelis. According to our guide all this now belongs to the past and there is only one industry left, in Bontoc. The ritual meanings and

One of Mr. Sapi Bawer’s daughters sports a traditional tattoo.

social prescriptions related to these weaving might have gone forever.

NATONIN AND FILIPINO ECOFARMING AND EXPORT From Paracelis we took the very bumpy road to Natonin, west of Paracelis which offers a beautiful view of rice terraces. We spent the night in Natonin at an eco-farmer’s house where we met Ashley. One of the things he did, aside from farming, was making brooms (walis).

He showed us precisely what the quality features of a good walis were.

He exported thousands of them to Japan.

BARLIG Farther down the still very bumpy road we reached the village of Barlig where we passed by yet another beautiful rice terraces.

We were approaching Bontoc again. Our guide had warned us that there might be a ritual for the victims of the bus accident we wrote about earlier. “It might hold us up”, he said.

But when we passed the place for the ritual, the ceremonies apparently were over already.

MT. DATA LODGE: A COLD PLACE After Bontoc we moved a bit further down the road, to Mt. Data Lodge, near Mt. Data National Park. A pleasant and cool place to stay where temperature dipped to 11 degrees celcius in the morning. We got extra electric heaters for our rooms – charged separately on the bill, as we found out later. Mt. Data Lodge is surrounded by a wonderful garden, even with a wooden church

on the grounds, which reminded me of Norway.

The Lodge was pretty uninhabited. Tourist groups do pass, and generally spend the night there. But in general it was very quiet. One evening, the hotel personnel performed dances for us.

The troupe was quite enthusiastic.

I noted that all of the boys/men in G-string wore just that, a G-string.

Mr. Bawer had warned us: nowadays boys in the poblacion are too shy to wear G-strings, so they wear something underneath. Only the outlying villages still stick to the old traditions. And so did our Mt. Data Lodge troupe.

A DREAM THAT CAME TRUE One last stop before we would be heading south for San Fernando, was for a brunch at the house of our guide. He introduced his wife, Irene, and their two young sons to us. At her house she had a shop which sold many beautiful weavings. It was clear that this husband and wife team was well immersed in the local communities in the Cordillera.

As it was a weekend, there were no road works and therefore no delays, except for one town that had decided to hold their town fiesta right on MacArthur Highway…. It was the end of a most rewarding 12-day trip. I now know where Tinglayan and Conner lies, I even visited. A dream that came true.

Bart Wijnberg, a Dutchman, has been married to a Filipina for more than 40 years. He likes to travel around the Philippines with his family. #09 2014

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TRAVEL

A SHORT ESCAPE TO THE MEDITERRANEAN Text and photos by Dheza Marie Aguilar

I

squeeze myself between the wall and the chairs, under one of the tables at the canteen of M/V Aqua Hercules. Not wanting to pay for a cabin bed, I am left with no choice but to sleep in this less than comfortable accommodations. I try not to think that it’s going to be a 10-hour trip from Bari, Italy to Corfu, Greece. It’s a small price to pay if I wanted to have my little break in the Mediterranean before summer ends. I deserve a few days off from this business trip. Conveniently, an efficient ferry system connects the two countries. As I try to sleep, I remember the wonderful time I just had in Puglia.

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DISCOVERING BRINDISI Brindisi is the capital of the Puglia region, located in the Southern coast of Italy. I expected that this city would be teeming with tourists when I arrived but surprisingly, almost no tourist was in sight.

There is absolutely no rushing in Brindisi. Mornings will see residents taking their time with their espresso, stopping for a quick chat with other locals before heading their way. At any given time of the day, a group of old men play chess or simply while the day away on benches in front of the Anchors Fountain in the town centre.

Evenings are a different story. When the sun sets, the air getting cooler, the townsfolk stream out into the streets to enjoy the night in a typical Mediterranean fashion – wining, dining and dancing. The best place to be is in one of the al fresco restaurants fronting the harbour. Try the grilled fish with Brindisi Rosso at Betty’s Café (www. bettycafe.it).

Perhaps the most picturesque in Brindisi’s historical town is its harbour, easily recognizable by the towering Monument to Italian Sailors (also known as the Big Rudder) fronting the Eastern part of the port. The structure

The white-washed architecture of Ostuni.

“THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO RUSHING IN BRINDISI. MORNINGS WILL SEE RESIDENTS TAKING THEIR TIME WITH THEIR ESPRESSO, STOPPING FOR A QUICK CHAT WITH OTHER LOCALS BEFORE HEADING THEIR WAY.”

is a memoriam to the fallen soldiers of World War I and II. I was not able to visit Aragones (or Alfonsino Castle) due to logistical reasons. One needs a car, which I didn’t have, to get to the castle located on the islet of S. Andrea. Instead, I ran around Old Town, stopping to take photos of different historical landmarks like the Roman Column and the Brindisi Cathedral. What I enjoyed most was my quiet morning walk along the harbour, photographing small, blue boats moored at the port and watching Brindisi men trying to catch some fish.

One day was enough for me to appreciate Brindisi. On my second day, I was off to another Italian beauty.

HITCHHIKING LA CITTA BIANCI I left Hotel Orientale (www.hotelorientale. it) at seven in the morning to catch the first bus to Ostuni, Italy’s White City, only to find out that the bus does not leave until two hours later. Luckily, I met a friendly Nonna who told me that her son’s wife is also a Filipina living in Pampanga. She even tried to make a long-distance call to her son to introduce me but to no avail. She got off the bus, in the town before Ostuni.

That’s when I got into trouble.

I am geographically inept and usually miss the bus wherever I go. So I got off the bus before the city proper of Ostuni.

I found myself in the middle of the road with no one to ask for directions.

I walked under the sweltering heat of the sun until I came across a small pub.

In my very limited Italian, I asked the barman for directions. Two customers overheard me and offered me a ride as they are passing by the city.

I have never hitchhiked in my life.

While I have done some scary stuff while travelling, I draw the line when it comes to riding in a stranger’s car, especially if that stranger reeks of alcohol and missing a front tooth. But somehow, I forgot my fears that day.

I took the passenger seat and happily chatted with my new “friends” along the way. Travelling does challenge your

Left to right: Purple shrimps and black rice at Porta Nova. Below: The port of Brindisi overlooking the Big Rudder. conventional ideas and teach you to trust strangers. However, to be on the safe side, you have to listen to your instincts as well.

Perched on a hilltop, Ostuni’s whiteness is like a mirage rising from the sea on a sweltering summer day. It is a fortified city and its walls as well as its houses are painted in immaculate white. The windows and doors are awashed in bright colors of green and blue, typical of Mediterranean architecture.

The houses are built attached to each other and walking around them is like being in a maze with its complex, narrow alleyways and hidden passages. There are several Baroque churches, the most prominent of which is the Cathedral, painted white up to its interiors.

PURPLE SHRIMP FOR LUNCH It was lunchtime when I got tired of exploring the Old Town of Ostuni. I

wanted to dine in a restaurant with a view of the White City. Luckily, I stumbled upon Porta Nova, which looks nothing spectacular from the outside but hides breathking views from its terrace once you step inside.

The menu was as tantalizing as the view. The restaurant’s leather-bound wine book offered the best of Italian wines including several Puglian wines.

I chose a bottle of 2011 Puglian Fiano Salento to go with my scallop in black rice and saffron sauce and purple shrimps in butter sauce and potatoes.

Because Ostuni is situated just eight kilometers away from the Adriatic sea, locals and tourists are spoiled for choice when it comes to the freshest catch of the day at Porta Nova.

I finished my meal with a plate of local cheeses, a glass of grappa and a shot of espresso. Needless to say, I was a bit tipsy and a little too cheerful by the time I left the restaurant. I managed to get out of the old town maze but failed #09 2014

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Paleokastritsa beach as seen from the balcony of Apollon Hotel.

to locate the bus station –as expected.

I asked an old Italian gentleman for directions and charmed him to take me to the bus station on his Vespa.

The next day, I took the train to Bari, another Puglian city to catch M/V Aqua Hercules.

SUMMER STORM IN CORFU I was exhausted by the time the boat docked on Corfu Island the next morning, having spent the night on a cold, hard floor with no blankets to keep me warm.

Corfu is a castle city and the second largest among the Ionian Islands.

Its history is marred by battles and bloodshed, being Europe’s first line of defense against the Ottoman Empire and was eventually conquered by England. Its fortress and castles are some of the most visited, particularly by English holiday-goers.

The city is popular for its blue skies, white beaches and secret coves. I was looking forward to enjoying it. As fate would have it, it rained the day I arrived.

Later, the waiter at one of the seaside restaurants in Paleokastritsa, a village outside the city proper, told me that after so many years, a summer storm was coming to the island. I should consider myself lucky.

But I was not going to let a brewing storm stop me from enjoying my swim.

I put on my bikini after dumping my luggage at Apollon Hotel (www.corfuapollon-hotel.com) and jumped into the already angry sea. After a while, dark clouds filled the sky, the water turned colder. I decided to go back to the hotel.

MESMERIZING CHANTS I checked the Internet for Plan B and it pointed me to Theotokos Monastery, a modest 13th century Orthodox monastery with a nicely manicured courtyard, friendly monks and a thousand cats inhabiting the place. The monastery is perched on the highest hill in the village. Inside are a small Byzantine museum and a church. I arrived in time for the afternoon service.

I sat at the back of the church to be able to observe the ceremony. Three

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The entrance to Theotokos Monastery.

Getting there Most low-cost airlines like Easy Jet and Ryan Air fly to Brindisi- Salento Airport.

STP operates buses from Brindisi to Ostuni and other towns in Puglia (www. stpspa.it). It is better to ask the tourist information center for updated bus schedules and ticketing offices.

You can also travel by train. It is faster and less of a hassle than taking the bus.

Buy your tickets online at www.trenitalia. com. The website is also available in English.

Different liqueurs and spirits on sale at a souvenir store in Corfu.

monks were presiding over the mass.

Their long, mesmerizing chanting in an unfamiliar language combined with the flickering candles in the dimly lit church was hypnotizing, taking me to a strange yet tranquil state of mind. I closed my eyes and enjoyed that peaceful sensation, very different from a Catholic mass service however solemn. The memory stayed with me.

This rite lasted for at least half an hour before women and children, some in traditional Greek clothing, made a beeline for the altar with their baskets of fruits, meat and flowers for the monks.

Some lighted candles while others kissed the hands of the monks.

I felt light and rejuvenated after leaving the monastery. Walking back to the village, I enjoyed the view of the waves crashing on the rocks below. At that moment, I appreciated life more than I am wont to do.

EXPLORING CORFU’S OLD TOWN Corfu’s Old Town is compact and

Several ferry companies ply between Bari-Corfu or Brindisi-Corfu. Try Blue Star Lines, Ventouris Ferries and Endeavour Lines. MV Aqua Hercules is operated by Ventouris Ferries. For more information and schedules, visit www.netferry.com.

easily explorable within a day.

Markets, colorful houses and al fresco restaurants line the seaside. Other interesting attractions are the Palace of Saints Michael and George, the Old and New Fortresses and the Church of St. Spyridon where the mummified body of the city’s patron saint is displayed.

I gravitated towards the less popular church of Andivouniotissa or the Byzantine Museum. It houses a marble altar displaying several Orthodox religious icons as well as Medieval manuscripts, religious clothings, liturgical objects and paintings dating back to the 15th century.

Tired and drenched from the heavy rain, I settled myself in one of the terrace restaurants fronting the seaside cliffs and filled my stomach with another sardine dish, a staple on the island.

At midday, I hopped on the bus back to Paleokastrista to enjoy my last sunset in the Mediterranean. This before I catch the plane that will take me back to cold Holland early the next day.

NEWS

Pinoy pastry chefs on world stage

by Diana A. Uy

F

or the first time in history, the Philippines will be competing in the prestigious World Pastry Cup in January 2015, in Lyon, France.

Pastry chefs Rizalino Mañas and Bryan Dimayuga, together with ice and fruit carver Vicente Cahatol, are representing the country in various categories that include creating sugar and chocolate showpieces, chocolate and ice carvings, 22 plated desserts, three whole cakes, and two ice cream cakes –all these in 10 hours and against 21 other competing countries.

Also known as Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie, the competition is considered the Olympics of pastry making. Founder Gabriel Paillasson started the biennial worldwide event in 1989, with France as its first ever champion.

According to James Antolin, vice president at the Pastry Alliance of the Philippines (PAP), the Philippines’ entry to the World Pastry Cup was 10 years in the making. It’s been their goal since they started participating in the Food and Hotel Asia’s main event, the Asian Pastry Cup in Singapore.

MIRACLE HAPPENS Mind you, the Philippines did not win in the recent Asian Pastry Cup. Malaysia, Singapore and Australia took home the gold, silver and bronze awards, respectively. Paillasson, in a surprising twist, awarded both Team Philippines and Team China the coveted “Ticket to Lyon,” allowing them to compete in the upcoming World Pastry Cup. More than winning the top prize, Antolin says, joining the WPC is a way of learning new techniques, ideas, and ingredients that can be introduced to the Philippines and her pastry chefs.

“At the end of the day, it’s what we learned that we can bring back to the Philippines and thus, help elevate our pastry industry to the next level,” says Antolin.

He adds, the WPC motivates young pastry chefs to learn more about their craft, eye bigger challenges.

He clarifies that the country’s pastry industry is

booming, evident in the numerous pastry shops that have opened in the last 10 years. The rise of Filipino pastry chefs, most are working abroad, cannot be discounted, as well.

“When you go abroad there are so many [Filipino pastry chefs] but they’re not so recognized. With WPC, we want to show that our pastry chefs are very talented,” says Antolin.

TALENT AND WORK ETHIC MATTER The PAP chose Mañas, Dimayuga and Cahatol as representatives because of their experience and work ethic. It also helps that all three work for the same hotel, Makati Shangri-la, establishing their good communication, synergy, and relationship.

“We decided to get representatives who know each other [well]. How they work together is important especially during practice and the competition itself,” says Antolin.

Mañas has a degree in hotel, restaurant and institution management from De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde. He is the specialist for their sugar showpieces.

Dimayuga is a graduate of hotel and restaurant management at the Lyceum of the Philippines University-Batangas. He is in-charge of their chocolate creations.

Cahatol used to be a wood carver in Paete, Laguna before becoming a fruit and ice carver in hotels.

“Our biggest challenge is perfecting the taste and look of our showpieces as well as having the right equipment and resources,” says Mañas.

SUPPORT TEAM PHILIPPINES Antolin says that the journey of the Philippines’ pastry team to Lyon needs a lot of support and funding. PAP is open to sponsorships and any form of assistance that will help them achieve their dream of bringing prestige and honor to the country’s culinary industry.

For inquiries, visit www.pastryallianceofthephilippines.com. #09 2014

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RECIPE

KILAWING LAPU-LAPU WITH CORN AND GRILLED PORK

by Dolly Dy-Zulueta photo by Rafael R. Zulueta

K

ILAWIN, which is equivalent to ceviche, is one of the most popular appetizers in the Philippines. You find different versions of it in different regions and provinces, and it’s always very interesting when raw fish or other seafood, such as shrimps and oysters, are “cooked” in vinegar and flavored with spices. Here’s a version of kilawin from Chef Bruce Lim, as featured in the recent The Best of Filipino Cuisine food promotion held at the Corniche Restaurant of Diamond Hotel Philippines.

THE PICKLED GINGER: 400 grams coconut vinegar 50 grams sugar Salt to taste 300 grams whole ginger, thinly sliced 10 grams fresh tarragon, picked from stem 1 pc. bay leaf Black peppercorn to taste 1. Make the pickled ginger. Heat the vinegar in a pot with sugar and salt.

2. Once salt and sugar completely dissolve, pour the vinegar mixture over the ginger in a bowl. Make sure the liquid is still hot.

3. Add the remaining ingredients, mix and let cool.

4. Chill for three days before using.

THE KILAWIN: 1 kg. lapu-lapu fillet, diced 500 grams kaong vinegar 200 grams calamansi juice 100 grams diced shallots 50 grams green chili, chopped 25 grams siling labuyo (bird’s eye chili), chopped Salt and pepper to taste 300 grams grilled corn, kernels sliced from the cob 200 grams grilled pork liempo, diced FOR GARNISH: Wansuy (cilantro), picked from stem Green onion, cut into strips 1. Combine the fish with all other ingredients, except for the corn and the pork.

2. Let mixture sit in the chiller for two hours, then check seasoning again. Season accordingly if needed.

3. Add the corn and the grilled pork liempo only right before serving the dish. If added too early, they will turn pale in color.

4. Serve in a platter with wansuy and green onion on top as garnish, and serve with a side of pickled ginger.

To know more about Dolly Dy Zulueta’s recipes and adventures, visit www.flavorsoflife.com.ph. She has regular columns on www.interaksyon.com and www.herword.com.

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IN THE NEXT ISSUE: For our next issue, The Filipino Expat Magazine takes on the theme, “Home for Christmas.” Whether home is Europe or the Philippines, the Filipino Expat will be featuring how we spend Christmas with our loved ones. An expert will tell us how to keep alive Filipino Christmas traditions in kids without confusing them. We will list down the perfect home-grown gifts for European friends. We will travel around Europe where Christmas feels like you never left the Philippines. We will show you the best surfing spots in the Philippines in case you want to take a break from all the holiday rush. Recipes of our favorite Noche Buena fare will whet one’s appetite.

#09 2014

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