Issue 8 Travel

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FILIPINOEXPAT #08 JUL/AUG 2014

TRAVEL ISSUE

5 countries, 500 euros

Switzerland,Luxembourg, Spain,France,Iceland

Road trip to Paris The Philippines: Off the beaten path

+ Pinoy food facts & holiday flings

FR EE

Quiapo today #08 2014

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FILIPINOEXPAT The Filipino Expat Magazine is redefining Filipino publications in Europe. Combining quality journalism with visually engaging design, The Filipino Expat is the first lifestyle and living magazine that highlights the stories of Filipinos in Europe. Our feature stories are focused on uplifting the image of Filipinos abroad and presenting world-class expatriates who are making a difference in their adopted countries. Veering away from politics, show business and sensational stories, The Filipino Expat provides discerning readers with a renewed sense of pride as a Filipino. Never miss an issue again. Subscribe to The Filipino Expat by emailing your name and address to publisher@thefilipinoexpat.com and have the magazine delivered straight to your doorsteps. Our magazine is free and you only have to pay a minimal postage fee of â‚Ź12 for The Netherlands and â‚Ź20 for the rest of Europe. #08 2014

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CONTENTS ON THE COVER EXPAT INTERVIEWS 09 Truth in travel Ken Subillaga sets the record straight on Auschwitz’s historical facts PERSONALITIES 10 Pinoy rap music in Rome Upcoming rapper Tahjack Tikaz introduces Filipino rap music to Italy EXPAT ISSUES 12 The perils of illegal recruitment Avoiding being a target of illegal recruitment 13 Truck ban How the Manila truck ban is affecting the balikbayan box business in Europe COLUMNS 14 Networking and pyramid scams Do not become a victim. Spot the clues on pyramiding schemes 15 Free legal assistance Know the free legal assistance available in Europe 24 A road trip to Paris Nats Sisma Villaluna recalls getting lost in the City of Lights BUSINESS 16 Kambal bed and breakfast Bosom buddies Randy Sebastian and Elbert Evangelista open the first Filipino-owned bed and breakfast in Rome HEALTH 18 Get healthy with Zumba Dance your way to health PARENTING 19 Out of town with the kids Get some tips on stress-free travelling with children in tow RELATIONSHIPS 20 Holiday fling Find the perfect guy or gal while on vacation SHOPPING 22 Travel essentials Come prepared on your next adventure with our list of travel must-haves

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TRAVEL 26 Save on accommodation with couch surfing Travel blogger Jerick Parrone offers a cheap alternative to staying in hotels COVER STORY 28 Europe on a budget See some of the most beautiful and expensive cities in Europe for only €500 FEATURE 34 Explore the Philippines’ off-thebeaten-path destinations Popular travel blogger Ivan Henares lists down five of the country’s mustsee but often overlooked places 40 Hiking the Cordillera Bart Wijnberg and his wife, Wads, brave the mountains of the Cordillera 42 Rediscover Quiapo A trip to Manila’s former entertainment and cultural hub DINING 44 The basics of Filipino food Culinary guru Nancy Reyes Lumen defines Filipino cuisine and why it is fast becoming the world’s newest culinary darling DIPLOMATS 48 Ambassador Virgilio Reyes The retiring Philippine Ambassador to Italy on ending his diplomatic journey in Europe GIVING BACK 50 Teaching men how to fish A British guy helps uplift the lives of poor Filipinos, especially the children in Balayan, Batangas

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REGULAR FEATURES Readers’ corner Editor’s letter Contributors Events

Cathy Pelina Luda 2009 Mutya ng Paris winner Photography by Ryan Arbilo


READERS’ CORNER

GET YOUR FREE COPIES FROM THE FOLLOWING OUTLETS: Amsterdam Sunro Remittance Rotterdam Pinoy Village Sari-sari store Carried by LVM and Pinoy Balikbayan Box to clients in Germany, Belgium, Luxembourg and the Netherlands Madrid Pinoy Central Remittance - Cosmo Cash and Carry Barcelona Cosmo Cash and Carry - Centro Filipino Philippine Consulate - BPI - Mitch Salon Mona Salon London Pinoy Supermarket - Lakwatsa Bubble Tea Lounge Kalesa Restaurant - BPI Europe - The Filipino Channel (TFC) - Manila Supermarket - Tindahang Pinoy Lutong Pinoy restaurant Birmingham Click2Market Filipino store - Fiesta Salon Belfast TEN Foundations Café Brussels Small World Remittance - FilBelge Titres-Services Philippine Embassy Oostende Asia Trade store Rome RCBC Rome - BPI Rome - Megaworld IRemit Remittance - Philippine Embassy Jeepney Travel Rome Milan Filinvest Sardinia Philippine Consulate Paris Arbilo Gallery Odense Asian Store and Balikbayan Box Berlin Philippine Embassy - MA Transworld Remittance Grace Sheelah Pickert Oslo Asean World Travel The Filipino Expat Magazine also sends complimentary copies to all Filipino embassies and consulates in Europe. We also have an increasing number of subscribers.

The Filipino Expat likes to hear from our readers. Keep on sending your thoughts and comments to editor@thefilipinoexpat.com. I first got a copy of your magazine from Pinoy Village last year. I like it. It’s very nice. You can learn a lot of things. I’ll tell my friends about your magazine as well. Keep up the good work. - Anabelle Fulache Urgel, the Netherlands Happy 1st anniversary to The Filipino Expat! I love the style and content of your magazine. Good luck and more success. - Thelma Alberts, Germany Brillante Mendoza, thanks for sharing your inspiring story! Ryan Manicad love your feature, too, on Miss Saigon stars! - Rose Eclarinal, London via FB I would like to commend Ambassador Leslie Baja and his team for conducting the outreach project. This project makes it convenient for all of us Pinoys in Switzerland to avail of the consular services. The Embassy staff were very friendly and most helpful to me as I applied for a passport for our youngest son in Liestal. - Mai Waldmeier, Switzerland Not many Filipinas can talk about their marriage candidly and still maintain a sense of humor. I wish there would be more like her and I hope that those who read this article could use a few of her advice about how to feel at ease here in Europe. - Mariflo Ricerra Kantuser via FB on “There’s No Secret to a Happy Marriage” Erratum: On the article Art Destinations of our May/ June issue, we inadvertently included Notte Biance under Berlin. Notted Biance is held in Florence, NOT in Berlin, every 30th of April.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

The joys of travel More than getting away from it all, travel enriches the mind and the soul. The thrill is in discovering new places, meeting new people and trying things you never thought you could do. It doesn’t matter whether you go alone, with your friends or family; the destination is inconsequential. What’s most important is you just go. The wise have said that we learn more about ourselves when we travel. And when we return, we are never the same. For instance, regular contributor Ken Subillaga quit his job in the Philippines to travel the world. Today, he is enjoying the life of an expat in Spain, doing the things he loves like baking, writing, photography, and of course, travelling. His most recent trip brought him to five of Europe’s most expensive cities with a budget of only 500 euros. A staunch advocate for the preservation of Filipino heritage, travel blogger Ivan Henares has been to the remotest corners of the Philippines. In fact, he has set foot in all her 81 provinces, discovering so much beauty even in the archipelago’s off-the-beaten-path destinations. By sharing with us some of these less chronicled places, Henares teaches us what it is really like to become a traveler, not just a tourist. Columnist Nats Villaluna recalls his road trip to Paris, realizing that getting lost, going hungry, and sometimes being homeless while travelling can be so much fun when in the company of friends. Manila was once considered, “Paris of the East,” or at least close to it. The government actually commissioned Daniel Burnham, a renowned master planner of Chicago, to design the Philippine capital in 1905. The bombing of the city during WW II left so many colonial buildings destroyed. The few that survived have become sad reflections of their former beauty. Quiapo, formerly a commercial and cultural hub, still features some of these Graeco-Roman and Art Deco architectures; the Church being the most enduring legacy of the city’s glorious past. Vincent Silarde explores this side of the capital, unlocking her many secrets, revealing a place full of character and heart despite the squalor, chaos, and decay surrounding her. Extreme adventures are not only for the young. Bart and Wads Wijnberg, together with two other relatives, travel to the Cordillera’s uncharted territory despite their age and warnings from friends. Their 12-day journey brought them to towns they never thought existed, bumping into friends along the way and discovering a few surprises that the Philippines’ northern region holds sole bragging rights. Looking for a place to stay on a budget? Jerick Parrone recommends Couchsurfing. The online community allows you to meet fellow travellers from the other side of the world, experience a country like a local, and sleep on a free bed. Maan D’Asis Pamaran talks with a couple who fell in love while on a vacation in Boracay. She shares some tips on hooking up while on tour. Food is part of travel, giving tourists a taste of a place’s history, culture and traditions. Pun intended. That said, we interviewed television host, food expert and cookbook author Nancy Reyes-Lumen to help us understand and appreciate more our Eastmeets-West cuisine. She tells us Filipino food is in fact on the threshold of becoming the world’s next culinary darling. Whatever your purpose next time you travel, always remember to keep only good memories, be brave and daring; talk to people, get lost, and most of all, have an amazing time. All the best!

Diana A. Uy Editor-in-chief

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CONTRIBUTORS

FILIPINO

EXPAT Publisher and Managing Editor Dheza Marie Aguilar Editor-in-chief Diana Uy Creative Director Robin Kuijs Contributing Writers: Maan D’Asis Pamaran, Ivan Henares, Miguel Ibanez, Ryan Manicad, Jerric Parrone, Vincent Silarde, Ken Subillaga, Bart Wijnberg Contributing Photographers: Ryan Arbilo, Rodney Ilagan Landicho

Jerick Parrone is a full-time eComms professional who believes a job should not stop you from seeing the world. He recently finished his goal to travel to 25 countries by the time he reaches 25 years of age. He shares his travel adventures on www.25travels.com. Also known as Facebook’s Pinoy Backpacker in Europe, Ken Subillaga is a photographer, a teacher, a baker, and a writer. Ken decided to quit his job in 2009 and started to embark on a journey around the world visiting 38 countries and counting. For this issue, he is sharing his complete 2-week itinerary around Europe’s most expensive countries: Iceland, France, Switzerland, Luxembourg and Spain for less than €500.

The Filipino Expat Magazine Published 6 times a year By The Filipino Expat The opinions expressed in The Filipino Expat magazine do not represent the views of The Filipino Expat company. While we have exhausted every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, neither The Filipino Expat nor its editors, contributors and staff will accept any responsibility for any omission, typographical or printing errors, inaccuracies or changes however caused. Our editorial and creative teams reserve the right to edit any material submitted at our discretion. All texts, photos and graphics have been used with the permission of the author or artists. All rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be duplicated or reproduced in a whole in any form or by any means without the publisher’s prior written permission. Comments and complaints should be addressed to: The Publisher The Filipino Expat Magazine Lorentzlaan 74 3112KP Schiedam The Netherlands

Ryan Arbilo is a fashion photographer and videographer based in Paris. He works for Pierre Cardin TV, shooting fashion and celebrity events in France including the Cannes Film Festival. He also dabbles in art particularly large portrait drawings. He owns Arbilo Gallery in Paris.

Telephone +31 (0) 624407692 Email publisher@thefilipinoexpat.com advertising@thefilipinoexpat.com Website www.thefilipinoexpat.com

Vincent Silarde works as a researcher in the University of the Philippines Diliman. He lives in Quezon City with wife Aubrey and daughter Wayawaya. Whenever possible, he commutes by bicycle.

Ivan Henares is a staunch advocate for the preservation of Philippine heritage. He is president of the Heritage Conservation Society, secretary of the NCCA National Committee on Monuments and Sites, and senior lecturer at the University of the Philippines. He was named one of The Outstanding Young Men (TOYM) for 2012 in the field of Heritage Conservation. His blog, Ivan About Town (www.ivanhenares.com) was named Best Travel Blog at the 1st Philippine Blog Awards in 2007. Follow him at @ivanhenares on Instagram and Twitter for travel photos and information.

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EVENTS

JUL/AUG2014

ENFiD Conference July 11-13 Madrid, Spain

Asian Summer Film Festival Barcelona July 15 - 20 Vic, Catalunya

The European Network of Filipino Diaspora will hold a mini-conference and assembly on July 11, at the Hotel Barcelo Castellana Norte in Madrid. The group aims to further develop the organization’s plans and programs in the next five years. There will be discussions on consular protection of migrant workers, importance of overseas voting and management and administration of migrant groups. Facilitators are representatives from participating government and nongovernment agencies. To register visit www.enfid.org.

Philippine cinema takes centerstage in the 11th Asian Summer Film Festival in Vic, Catalunya. Our very own tarsier, named Gwapo, is this year’s festival mascot. Among the films to be screened are Graceland, Kabisera, Blue Bustamante and the critically-acclaimed, Australian-produced The Search for WengWeng. The event is organized with the support of the General Consulate of the Republic of the Philippines. Proceeds will go to the victims of typhoon Haiyan. Visit www.cinemaoriental.com/en.

Cinemes Girona Ciclo de Independiente Filipino July 5 - Sept 27 Barcelona, Catalunya Catch some of the Philippines’ best contemporary films at the Cinemes Girona in Barcelona. Cinemes Girona Ciclo de Independiente Filipino is organized by the Philippine Embassy in Madrid in cooperation with Casa Asia. To be shown are Sigaw by Joel Lamangan, Ang Babae sa Septic Tank, Ang Sayaw ng Dalawang Kaliwang Paa, Emir by Chito Rono, Ang Damgo ni Eleuteria, Halaw and The Red Shoes. Visit www. casaasia.es/actividad/detalle/213667-ciclode-cine-independiente-en-filipinas-ii.

INDEPENDENCE DAY CELEBRATIONS Filipino communities in different parts of Europe commemorated the 116th Independence Day with a slew of activities that included loads of music, dancing, and partying:

Barcelona, Spain - Filipinos showcased some of the Philippines’ most colorful festivals including Aklan’s Ati-Atihan and Bacolod’s Maskara Festival together

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with Muslim dances from Southern Philippines. They also had their version of the Catalan tradition involving the creation of a human tower.

Oslo, Norway - The Kalayaan Celebration in Oslo Norway called Fiesta Filipino highlighted the works of fashion designer Jaki Penalosa. The native from Iloilo used Philippine fibers such as abaca, pina, silk and hablon for her clothes, all woven by local women. The Philippine Women’s Organization in Norway spearheaded the celebration.

Spaarnwoude, the Netherlands Filipino-Dutch singing sensations Katrina Manaog and Kim Regasa serenaded the attendees of the Kalayaan Fiesta celebration held in Spaarnwoude, the Netherlands. Former Streetboys dancers Spencer Reyes and Michael Sesmundo delighted the crowd with their signature dance moves. The Filipino community also set up a bazaar selling Philippine food and handmade products.


EXPAT INTERVIEWS

Dare to write

Ken Subillaga PhD Student Madrid, Spain

Why did you move to Spain? When I got selected for an Erasmus Mundus Mobility Asia scholarship program, I decided to quit my teaching job at the De la Salle College of Saint Benilde and embarked on a different journey that changed my life forever. How does living in Spain allow you to travel and explore other European countries? Travelling is my passion. With it, came two hobbies - writing and photography that made me the person that I am now. When I travel, I make sure I document every detail of my experience by writing it down and reliving it through photography. Being based in Spain, with its extensive transport system, allowed me easy access to any part of Europe. Affordably. What do you like most about the Spanish way of life? For the most part, the Spanish way of life has been a great influence in my career as a writer, teacher, baker-cake decorator and photographer. Being in Spain and seeing how the Spanish deal with life, I have been able to juggle all of these easily and in a way that I can still manage my social life. Life here strikes a healthy balance between work and play.

What do you consider your biggest challenges? Aside from dealing with different personalities? In writing, we can never please other people. What I write is mostly stark contrast to what they subconsciously prefer to read and hear. But I always believe that it takes courage and willingness to face all criticisms thrown at my face to make a difference and change ways of thinking. I think that’s my biggest challenge as a writer. Tell us more about how you came to write Auschwitz: The Art of Lying? When I first professed my interest on this topic as part of my school paper in Tourism Education, which would supposedly lead to a thesis topic, my professor said “NO,” without batting an eyelash and with such finality. So I decided to write and complete the paper on my own without the university’s approval. The first title, “Auschwitz: A Tourism

Fraud,” earned so many negative criticisms that I had to change it. “Auschwitz: The Art of Lying,” the new title, is controversial in a sense that it provides a different angle to a very sensitive topic in history. It will change the way you look at this part of historic human tragedy. Hopefully, with a more reasonable mind. Why write the book? First and foremost, I would like to educate people on what really happened in this part of history. The holocaust will still be a holocaust no matter what. But each and every one of us deserves the truth minus the embellishments. This is one thing that every citizen of the world needs to understand. I am neither an anti-Semite nor a holocaust denier. I am simply bringing to everyone’s knowledge the facts that could change the way one sees the holocaust or even the history of the world.

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PERSONALITIES

A RAPPER'S HEART by Dheza Marie Aguilar photos by Rodney Ilagan Landicho

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ap music conjures images of scantily clad girls, vices and profanity. These titillating visuals do not exactly sit well with many Filipinos. So when rapper Tadjack Tikaz dared to show them in a music video for his song, “Filipino is the Best,” he naturally earned a lot of flak from the Filipino community in Rome. But the 23-year-old musician, whose real name is Jack Roman Tena, remained unperturbed. He believes criticism is part of being an artist. He needs to evolve with his critiques. “When I was starting, I didn’t have many critiques. It was nice to create my own music and just put it out there. But when my wholesome style changed to a more modern type, the comments of some Filipinos hurt me. But I see this as another challenge to better my craft,” says Tena. His lyrics talk about the Philippines and its cultures, pride in his roots and the lives of Filipino expats. They also criticise the oppressing political system in the Philippines and advocate change. His talent has won him the Best Foreign Artist Award in the 2013 Premio Baicco, an annual event that celebrates residents in Rome who have succeeded in different fields including the arts, engineering, music and science and technology. He is the second Filipino, and the youngest, to be given this recognition. Tena has been featured in Rome’s local media including Grazie magazine. Italian producers are currently filming a documentary of his life to be screened next year. “When the award was offered to me a year before, I refused to accept it because I felt that I was not worthy of it yet. A year later, when I was already getting regular gigs and being paid to sing even outside Rome, the award was still given to me. It was only that time that I knew it was meant for me,” narrates Tena. Despite his growing popularity, Tena remained humble and guided by the values instilled in him by his mom. He still uses “po” and “opo” when addressing elders and strangers and diligently goes to work at a newsstand in Via Farnesina. “As a musician, it is very important to me that I am respected everywhere I go not only because I have talent but also because I am honest and respectful to my listeners,” says Tena. Tena was born in Italy but he and his siblings grew up in Balayan, Batangas. At age 12, they all went back to Rome to be with their parents. During the interview, he talked about his mother and her battle with a kidney disease that eventually led

“AS A MUSICIAN, IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO ME THAT I AM RESPECTED EVERYWHERE I GO NOT ONLY BECAUSE I HAVE TALENT BUT ALSO BECAUSE I AM HONEST AND RESPECTFUL TO MY LISTENERS.”

to her death last year. He is still dealing with the loss of his mom, which he says has helped him to be more creative with his music and thus, be recognized as an artist. “So now whenever I have a blessing, a recognition or an accomplishment, I put it in a special box and put it beside my mother’s ashes so she can also see the success that I am getting,” he lovingly narrates. Starting out as a rapper had not been easy. He would write his lyrics while sitting on a bus on the way home or at work when there was time to kill. Tena used to sing in almost all birthday parties in Rome so that people would hear his music. Belief in his talent and hard work helped him get through to people. “If I sing at an event and one person in a crowd appreciates my music, I am already very happy with that. I consider that as an accomplishment because since the beginning I’ve been trying to convince my fellow Filipinos to listen to and respect rap music.” BALANCING MUSIC AND FAMILY Being the eldest, Tena continues to take care of his family, doing household chores just like what his mom used to do. In between work and home, he makes music videos, promotes his music on Youtube and Facebook and negotiates for gigs and performances. Nowadays, he gets help from friend Rafi Santos, who shoots and edits his music videos, and his brother Christian, who edits his lyrics. The rapper believes that his hard work is finally paying off. “There are a lot of Filipino rappers here and many of them are very good. But only a few work hard for their music and only a few have the courage to perform before a large audience.” Tena hopes to find a producer. He believes that Filipino rap music could compete well with their foreign counterparts. Whether that happens sooner or later, he is determined to strive on. “Once I have written my lyrics, whether it is pleasing or not, I will sing and I will get my message across. Whenever I perform on stage and I know that people believe in me and listen to my music, I will never be insecure about what I do,” ends Tahjack.

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EXPAT ISSUES

THE PERILS OF ILLEGAL RECRUITMENT by Ryan Manicad

VICTIMS OF ILLEGAL RECRUITERS BECOME SUSCEPTIBLE TO SERIOUS CONSEQUENCES RANGING FROM SKYROCKETING INDEBTEDNESS, CRIMINAL CASES (DUE TO FAILURE TO PAY LOANS), PROPERTY LOSS OR WORST THE RISK OF BEING TRAFFICKED.

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icturesque sceneries, magnificent architectural designs, a lucrative lifestyle and dynamic culture… These are some of the things that greatly appeal to the imagination of Filipinos who dream to live and work in Europe. For most people who are experiencing poverty and extreme corruption in the Philippines, one of the best ways to have a breather from this “never-ending” dilemma is to seek for better opportunities in what many consider as their “dreamland.” Although there have been so many success stories of Filipinos in Europe, others experience unfortunate events due to insufficient knowledge. Their intense desire to seek for a better life not just for themselves but also for their families coupled with the lack of awareness could lead to their worst nightmare – to become a victim of an illegal recruiter. Victims of illegal recruiters become susceptible to serious consequences ranging from skyrocketing indebtedness, criminal cases (due to failure to pay loans), property loss or worst the risk of being trafficked. Once living as an undocumented worker abroad, the poor Filipino could face abuse, unfair labor practices, prostitution, limited access to healthcare, inability to open bank accounts, among others. Such problems could take a financial and emotional toll on victims and their families. The Philippine Overseas Employment Administration (POEA) defines illegal recruitment as an “act of canvassing, enlisting, contracting, transporting, utilizing, hiring or procuring workers and includes referring, contract services, promising or advertising for employment abroad, whether for profit or not, when undertaken by a nonlicense or non-holder of authority.” According to Gene Alcantara, a UK immigration consultant and chair of European Network of Filipino Diaspora, some of the tactics of illegal recruiters may include: Bringing people on fake passports or visas (cases like these have seem to dwindled down with the emergence of biometric passports) and bringing people over for non-existent jobs. “Basically, they [victims] incur huge expenses to get out of the Philippines or stay in the country concerned… Many fall into deep indebtedness. And because they have to pay debts back home, they become even more desperate to stay [even] with an illegal status,” says Alcantara. Alcantara explains that it is hard to tell the exact profile of illegal recruitment victims as not all of them come from one specific sector. In the UK alone, some 500 former students were victimized by several unscrupulous operators, who preyed on their victims’ desperation to extend their stay before their student visa expires. Many of the

victims were professional nurses and healthcare workers. TAKING ACTION Last April, in an effort to curb illegal recruiters, the European Union (EU), International Labour Office (ILO) and International Organization for Migration (IOM) gathered Asian recruitment agencies to talk about ways to improve governance systems, ethical recruitment and professionalization of the industry. A total of 11 countries participated including the Philippines. This event was held in Manila. In 2013, POEA and Jobstreet. com, one of the leading online job sites in the Philippines, teamed up to inform Filipino workers against the “ill-effects” of illegal recruitment in an activity entitled Matalino Ako! Hindi Ako Magpapaloko! During the launch, flyers, posters, electronic direct mailers and educational videos on anti-illegal recruitment were distributed to various licensed recruitment agencies and jobseekers all over the Philippines to keep them aware as to how unscrupulous recruiters operate. BE VIGILANT Alcantara reminds Filipino jobseekers not only in Europe but also in other parts of the world to be more observant and always practice vigilance when dealing with recruiters. “We regularly coordinate with the Philippine Embassy to make announcements periodically reminding them to make sure that they check [if] the office of the recruiter is legitimate, look for a prominently displayed license, and know their government regulator in case [they have] complaints. [In addition], when they release money they [should] always demand for a receipt.” He emphasizes that if a recruiter meets the applicant inside a coffee shop or restaurant and not in the proper office, they should start worrying. It is essential to ask for the recruiter’s license (the license number and expiry date should be indicated). They should be more cautious especially when recruiters are asking them to pay huge amounts of money without showing the price list. “As a licensed immigration representative, we have a reasonable scale of fees that has been approved by the Office of the Immigration Commissioner and we cannot exceed this without approval. If you pay money, and they say we will issue the receipt later, you need to be worried. In Europe when you hand your money over voluntarily, it is considered as a civil case. Without a receipt, you will find it difficult to prove you gave somebody money.” For more information on illegal recruitment, visit www.poea.gov.ph/air/ modus.htm.


EXPAT ISSUES

DELIVERY BLUES by Miguel Ibañez

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he implementation of a city-wide modified truck ban in Manila last February has caused a lot of delays in the delivery of balikbayan boxes to loved ones in the Philippines due to backlogs in cargo shipments in the Port Area. The said ordinance prevents eight-wheeler trucks weighing 4.5 tons and up from plying the streets of Manila from 5 am to 9 pm, except Sundays and holidays. DELAYS IN DELIVERY LBC, one of the world’s biggest forwarders, said that everyone in the industry is affected by the modified truck ban. Internal inspection and the slow dispatching process are also causing bottlenecks in the Port Area. The company said that they are now having a hard time procuring cargos like balikbayan boxes straight from the terminal to customers. “We know how important these packages are to both sender and recipient, so rest assured that we are doing all we can to keep delays at a minimum,” said the LBC management in a statement. Similarly, Netherlands-based Pinoy Balikbayan Box has been experiencing delays in cargo shipments to Manila for up to two weeks since February. The company said their partner forwarder is making efforts so that the truck ban won’t have such a huge impact on their operations. LVM Cargo said it’s not just the truck ban but also the changes in custom regulations and the congestion in the Port Area that are affecting the delivery of balikbayan boxes to clients. According to Wim de Ruiter, owner of LVM Cargo, congestion at the Manila port has caused huge container vessels from Europe to be rerouted to nearby countries like Malaysia, Singapore or Taiwan. From there, they unload the containers and transfer them to smaller vessels that will take them to the Manila port. The latter phase of the transport usually takes a few weeks. BAND AID SOLUTION Seeing the negative effects of the implemented truck ban in Manila, the national government has stepped in to help solve the problem. Cabinet Secretary Rene Almendras held a meeting with local government

officials in Manila, port authorities, truckers’ representatives and the business community to discuss the issue. All parties agreed with having a 24-hour express lane for cargo truck along Roxas Boulevard. The express lane allows truckers to freely travel in and out of the Port Area to Manila, Pasay and Parañaque except Fridays. The Metro Manila Council has issued a resolution allowing cargo trucks to pass through the inner lane of Roxas Boulevard effective until Dec. 10, 2014. Delivery trucks are now given a 24-hour express trade lane (ETL) along Roxas Boulevard. The Metro Manila Development Authority has also lifted its own truck ban policy. Delivery trucks can now pass through designated routes throughout the day except Fridays, wherein trucks are not allowed to take the roads of Metro Manila from 6 to 9 am and 5 to 10 pm. Manila City Vice-Mayor Isko Moreno said that trucks seen out of the ETL will be apprehended since their truck ban policy (no trucks along the streets of Manila between 10 am to 5 pm) is still in effect. “As long as they are within their lane, they won’t be apprehended,” Moreno said. The effects of this new policy will be reviewed after three months or by mid-September. SHIP EARLY Forwarders advise their clients in Europe to ship their boxes earlier. “For balikbayan boxes meant for Christmas, most especially to the Visayas and Mindanao, they must be shipped in the months of August and September to be able to deliver your gifts or pasalubong on time,” said de Ruiter. Jane Nieberg of Pinoy Balikbayan Box said they ship parcels on a monthly basis which should guide customers on their delivery time. “Truck ban or not, we always tell clients to send their boxes way ahead of their expected delivery dates. Normally, we advise them to send a month before the schedule they want their parcels to arrive,” she said. Senders are also advised to follow the recommended weight allowance and submit the necessary documents to ensure easier transactions.

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ONE WEALTHY NATION

by Francisco J. Colayco

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ow do you best avoid pyramid scams and focus on investing your hard-earned cash on much more worthwhile ventures? A pyramid scam is a business model where you earn money primarily from bringing other people into the business rather than selling real products of good products. Networking is a marketing system. It is not by itself a business. As a marketing or sales system, networking has proved to be quite effective for selling certain types of products and services directly to the consumer. It bypasses media advertising and is usually via word of mouth. A good legitimate networking business can give you both active and passive income. As you probably know, there are two kinds of income – active and passive. Active income is earned by your actual physical effort. Passive income is earnings received with little effort. It is sometimes called “unearned” income. It is always best to have both active and passive income to grow your wealth. Thus, networking is definitely a very interesting and lucrative source of both types of income for many. The basic question is: How do you know if a networking proposal is legitimate? Because networking has been successful in a number of companies, it has also been abused and twisted to the detriment of those who join with the mistaken notion that networking is a sure way to make money. Many believe that they don’t have to do much and the income will automatically pour in. If you look closely, in established companies, the networkers who make good money are those who work hard and are able to organize their own effective sales groups who then produce sustained high level of sales. Their success is the product of serious planning and hard work. The network does not produce the wealth. It is the networkers themselves who achieve it. So, unless you are prepared to work hard, organize and do serious fieldwork, networking is not for you. To be brief, the most common type (and there are many types) of networking structure that has been abused is the “multilevel” type where networkers earn income from the production of those whom they recruit and who fall under their specific structure, usually called their business center. These are called their downlines and each downline is given his own business center. This type and its other variations are not necessarily scams. As a system, it is a legitimate

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NETWORKING and PYRAMID SCAMS tool. However, when it is used to generate business through people recruitment without offering any real product or service to the members and their customers, it is pyramiding and is a scam. CLUES FOR SPOTTING NETWORKING SCAMS When offered to join a network, the first question you should ask is whether or not the company is duly registered and licensed with the Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) and the Department of Trade and Industry (or its equivalent in the country where the business is offered) in the marketing of its products. Second, find out what is being sold, what is the selling price to the end user and how much is the cost to the networker. Find out if there is a joining fee and what it is you get in

broker or dealer license) to sell their investment products. In addition, the product itself, must be registered by SEC as a legitimate investment product. This is a specific SEC product registration document which specifies the total amount allowed to be sold over a specific period, which is usually a year. Finally, sales agents of investment products need to be licensed by the SEC. A networking company must have all these licenses and registration documentation in order to be legitimate. You have to clearly understand how you make your money as a networker. The legitimate way is for you to earn based on actual selling of the products either directly by you or indirectly through your “downlines.” This means that the market price of the product allows for good commissions to be paid out. Don’t rush in making your decision.

return for paying this joining fee. If you are getting good value for the money you pay to be able to join the network, then possibly, the business is legitimate. If however, you have to pay a joining fee without getting anything in return, be careful. The network could possibly be a scam. Another important consideration is the track record of the company. The longer the company has been in business, the better chance of its legitimacy. Companies with a buy back guarantee also have more credibility. Check the efficacy of their products and their training system carefully. A word of caution. If the product or the offer to join is being presented as an investment, the company and/ or agent must produce a secondary license from the SEC (i.e., a securities

Remember, if you make your money mainly through recruiting of new agents and from the fees these new agents pay, walk away! That system is a scam! I have a new TV show in the Philippines, Nang Magising si Juan every Sunday at 8am on GMA NEWS TV. It is the first of its kind “edutainment” (educational entertainment) show to teach Filipinos personal money management in a combined comedy and serious setting. Tell your family and friends in the Philippines about it. For the Filipino expats wherever you are in the world, may I invite you to join our One Wealthy Nation (OWN) Community. Visit www.onewealthynation.com for a whole load of education and investment opportunities for only 20 euros per year.


LAW CORNER WITH ATTY. CAT

HOW TO GET FREE LEGAL ASSISTANCE

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on’t let others deprive you of your rights. Poverty is not an obstacle to enforce and enjoy your rights. Almost all democratic countries guarantee judicial protection for their people. In this article, you will learn the instruments available for your protection. The international legal assistance is designed to facilitate access to justice in cross-border civil affairs. It is for those who do not have sufficient resources to enforce their rights in overseas courts and for people who are not residing in the state where the trial is to be held or where he will carry out the sentence. International legal assistance falls under the provisions of the European Council of Europe Agreement of 27th of January 1977 and the Convention of the Hague Conference, No. XXIX. In Spain, free legal assistance or asistencia juridica gratuita derives from Article 119 of the Spanish Constitution and Law 1/1996. To exercise this right, one must prove, with exceptions, the situation of insufficient financial resources or property through the following: By court. The judge determines whether the person will be given the free assistance without previous processing. Legal. Beneficiary is set by law and without previous processing. Administrative. There is an administrative process and the administration grants free legal assistance. Who could be a beneficiary of free legal assistance? 1. Any natural person (national or not) that proves insufficient economic resources 2. Social Security System Institutions, in any case. 3. The following legal persons who lack sufficient means to litigate: Associations of public utility, under Article 32 of the Regulatory Law 1/2002 of March 22, the right of association. Foundations registered in the corresponding Public Registry. 4. Beneficiaries of the social security

“THE INTERNATIONAL LEGAL ASSISTANCE IS DESIGNED TO FACILITATE ACCESS TO JUSTICE IN CROSS-BORDER CIVIL AFFAIRS. IT IS FOR THOSE WHO DO NOT HAVE SUFFICIENT RESOURCES TO ENFORCE THEIR RIGHTS IN OVERSEAS COURTS AND FOR PEOPLE WHO ARE NOT RESIDING IN THE STATE WHERE THE TRIAL IS TO BE HELD OR WHERE HE WILL CARRY OUT THE SENTENCE.”

system, both for the defense on trial as to the exercise of actions to guarantee labor rights in bankruptcy proceedings. 5. Administrative litigations of foreigners and nationals who have insufficient resources to litigate are entitled to legal aid and pro bono representation and defense in proceedings that may lead to the rejection of his entry into Spain, repatriation or expulsion from Spanish territory and in all asylum procedures. 6. In cross-border disputes in civil and commercial matters, individuals referred to in Chapter VIII of the Act, under the terms set forth therein. 7. Regardless of the existence of resources to litigate, the right to legal assistance, are immediately given to victims of gender violence. It is also given to abused and mistreated minors and/or the mentally disabled. 8. Notwithstanding the existence of resources to litigate, the right to free legal assistance for victims of an accident is recognized certifying permanent sequela that prevent them from fully performing the duties of their regular business or professional occupation and require assistance of others to perform the most essential activities of daily life, when the object of the dispute is the claim for compensation for personal and moral damages. Where to request free legal assistance?

by Chona Abiertas

Before the Laws and Bar Association of the place where the court or tribunal will celebrate the hearing of the main process for which it is requested. Or in the Court of their domicile in the latter case. The court will issue the request to the competent territorial Attorneys Association. This last point will be at the bar of the home instead of the home court. The right to free legal assistance includes the following features: 1. Advice and guidance to the process. 2. Assistance to detainees or prisoners who had not designated for any police or judicial proceedings in criminal matters. 3. Advocacy and representation by counsel and solicitor free in legal proceedings, where the use of these professionals is legally mandatory. Lawyer and Attorney are on duty. 4. Inserting ads or free edicts. 5. Exemption from payment of court fees and deposits for use. 6. Free expert assistance. 7. Obtain free copies, testimonials, instruments and affidavits. 8. Eighty per cent reduction of customs duties applied for the award of public deeds. 9. Eighty per cent reduction of customs duties applied for obtaining notes, certificates, notes, entries and entries in the Register of Deeds and Companies. To know more about free legal assistance, call the lawyers of CAT LAW FIRM S.L.P. at 93 015 37 27 or 635 878 688. Their offices are located on Calle Aribau no. 176-bis 1 º -2 ª 08036 in Barcelona and at Pinoy Central Headquarters in Madrid located on Calle General Margallo Mezzanine #9, 28020 Madrid. Call 91 014 99 93. Also, send your inquiries to advocats.catlaw@ gmail.com or abogados.catlaw.madrid@ gmail.com. Please be informed that Habeas Corporation International Lawyers and Mediators is already dissolved by mutual agreement of the partners effective May 31, 2014.

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BUSINESS

Built on trust and friendship by Dheza Marie Aguilar

Fear. One emotion that prevents many Filipinos to venture into business, particularly overseas. That and the fact that most of us were raised to strive for the security of a good job to provide for our families. The idea of losing everything we worked hard for if the business fails makes many us give up before we have even started. Two friends did not let fear stop them from starting a business where their experiences proved very handy. Expats Elbert Evangelista and Randy Sebastian, both living in Rome, pooled their savings together and mustered enough courage to become the first Filipino owners of a bed and breakfast in the Eternal City called Kambal Bed and Breakfast. STARTING OUT Like many Filipinos in the 90s, Evangelista went to Italy to seek for a better life for him and his family. He wanted to be a doctor but his parents couldn’t afford to send him to medical school. So he packed his bags and decided to try his luck in Italy following in the footsteps of his relatives in Batangas. His first two months were the hardest. “I was working as a live-in housekeeper in a family whose house is situated on a mountain. Since they all go to work and to school, I’m usually alone with the dogs. I was not able to survive the loneliness up in that mountain. I

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“EVERYTHING JUST FELL INTO PLACE AT THE TIME WE WERE THINKING IT.” would sometimes cry there,” narrates Evangelista. He decided to find a job in Rome. For eight years, he had several part-time jobs as a housekeeper. Meanwhile, Sebastian was just 13 years old when his parents migrated to Italy. He grew up in Catania, Sicily and moved to Rome to pursue his college education through a scholarship grant at the La Sapienza University. He finished Cultural Language Mediation with majors in English and Spanish. “Thanks to the scholarship grant, I was able to pursue a degree in Rome despite the high cost of education. Still, I took a part-time job in a small hotel to support myself here,” recalls Sebastian. Sebastian got introduced to the Scala Santa Filipino community where Evangelista was a group leader. The two bonded right away because of their shared interests in music and singing. They also worked together as a translator and interpreter at the Regional Trial Court in Rome. Their friendship grew stronger by working together for various jobs in several organizations. Their bond became the foundation for their soonto-be business venture. Feeling burnt out in 2012, Evangelista pitched the idea of starting their own

bed and breakfast to his friend. Little did they know they would actually be doing it the following year. He had been working as a househelp since arriving in Italy while Sebastian as a part-time manager at a bed and breakfast. Combining their knowledge and experience in housekeeping and management, they were able to start their dream without a hitch. “I really wanted to have a job that was less labor-intensive and would allow me to enjoy life a bit more. While I was helping Randy in the other bed and breakfast, I thought that this kind of business would be very easy to manage [because] there were no very heavy tasks involved. And I saw how easily money came in. So I suggested to him that we partner and start our own bed and breakfast,” says Evangelista. Kambal Bed and Breakfast was born, thus named as a tribute to the twins in their families. FINDING THE PERFECT HOUSE Evangelista did not expect that their dream would be realized so quickly. “Everything just fell into place at the time we were thinking it,” says Evangelista. While the business partners were leisurely scouting for a place to lease, they stumbled upon a property which was just handed over to the real estate agency. The owner, they found out, wanted to turn it into a bed and breakfast. They saw it as a sign. “The property has a central location.


Sebastian (right) and Evangelista combined their knowledge and experience to create their own bed and breakfast.

It is very close to a metro station and located on the first floor so guests would not have a hard time lifting their luggage to the top floor,” says Sebastian. That same afternoon, the real estate agent showed them around the property. They learned that the house was previously occupied by 12 immigrants who apparently did not take care of it. Almost everything was damaged: the heater was not working properly and serious renovations from floor to ceiling were needed to be done. Sebastian and Evangelista were not discouraged. “If the Lord did not give this [property] to us, we would have been discouraged right away. When we first saw this house, it was very ugly dirty and broken down,” shares Evangelista. Aside from fixing the plumbing and doing electrical repairs, the two men did the interior design themselves choosing colors and designs for the rooms with the help of the internet. They were very hands-on in the restoration of the place. Before Kambal Bed and Breakfast officially opened in September 2013, Sebastian got busy promoting their business to several prospective guests. They also registered in different booking sites. Needless to say, they were fully booked for several weeks on their first few days of operations. SOUND ADVICE Sebastian admits that his previous work at a bed and breakfast helped enormously not only in setting up their

Blue adds a nice punch of color to the otherwise all-white room.

“WHAT WE ARE OFFERING TO CLIENTS IS NOT ONLY A BED TO LAY THEIR HEADS ON AFTER A FULL DAY OF SIGHTSEEING BUT ALSO BEAUTIFUL EXPERIENCES THAT THEY WOULD LOOK BACK TO YEARS FROM NOW.” business venture but also in getting clients. The partners suggest to have the proper documents ready and keep a good record particularly in paying taxes so that banks will be more lenient in giving you a loan. Make sure also your business partner is willing to take risks. “There are a lot of Filipino expats who have money and who want to start their own businesses. But they do not go on with it because they lack courage and they are more focused on the negative,” laments Evangelista. He adds, “They would be preoccupied with thoughts like, ‘What if the business goes bankrupt?’ They should think on the line of, ‘What if the business succeeds?’ They should be thinking instead of how they can grow their money and their business.” Most important to keep in mind is to maintain good quality of service to make your business last. “What we are offering to clients is not only a bed to lay their heads on after a full day of sightseeing but also memorable experiences that they would look back to years from now,” says Sebastian.

MONEY MATTERS Starting a bed and breakfast can be very profitable because of the captured market in Rome, particularly. Here are the figures if you are thinking of setting up your own: Kambal Bed and Breakfast Rome, Italy Capital: €50,000 (savings and bank loan) Main Expenses: Renovations Deposit Rent (€1,600/month) Supplies Estimated income: €5,000 to €11,000 depending on the season Expected return on investment: One year and a half Tips: > Filipinos are very hospitable and clients appreciate this. > Small things matter. > Be attentive to your clients like sending them emails containing tips before they arrive and even during their stay. > Personalized services go a long way.

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HEALTH

Get healthy with Zumba by Dheza Marie Aguilar

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oving from one country to another can be stressful especially when you don’t know anyone and you have nothing to do but sit at home all day. So when Filipino expat Walter Labajo moved from Switzerland to the Netherlands in 2009, one of the first things he did was enroll himself in a gym where he can get some Zumba lessons. Today, he is a licensed Zumba instructor. “In a Zumba class, stress melts away. As soon as you hear the festive music, see the brightly colored Zumba outfits, you instantly feel the party vibe. So, for an hour or so, you forget your worries. Zumba is a good way to clear your mind,” says Labajo. Zumba originated from Colombia and was developed by dancer and choreographer Alberto Perez. It is a combination of different dance moves like hip hop, salsa, samba, mambo, soca and merengue. It also applies some martial arts techniques. It first hit gyms in the 90s. An hour of Zumba can burn up to 500 calories and more especially when complex moves are involved like wider arm movements or lower squats. Aside from helping him lose weight,

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Labajo says that it also helped him tone his muscles and improve his balance. “The different steps engage different muscle groups. More often than not, I engage my core, not just to tighten my abs but to improve my posture as well. Zumba is really a full-body workout. It improved my coordination, too. The dance moves we do in class, especially the fast ones, require me to engage body parts in a fluid manner. Through the years of attending Zumba classes, I believe that it has improved my balance and agility,” explains Labajo. Labajo plans to introduce Zumba classes to the Filipino community in the Netherlands as a healthy way of getting together. He hopes to organize a fitness weekend as an alternative to the usual parties. In the pipeline also is a personalized Zumba program for those hosting parties at home. “It would be a fun, healthy and unique way of giving a party,” says Labajo. Walter Labajo lives in Haarlem. Learn more about Zumba through his Facebook page www.facebook.com/ walterlabajozumba or email wlabajo@ yahoo.com for a personalized Zumba party.

“IN A ZUMBA CLASS, STRESS MELTS AWAY. AS SOON AS YOU HEAR THE FESTIVE MUSIC, SEE THE BRIGHTLY COLORED ZUMBA OUTFITS, YOU INSTANTLY FEEL THE PARTY VIBE.”

Labajo on the beach.


PARENTING

Outof town withthe kids

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ravelling with kids can be quite exhilarating. They move a lot, talk a lot and complain a lot. Most of the time, you just want to tear your hair out. This need not be the case. Here are some helpful tips: Allot some extra time. Kids love to explore and are prone to tantrums, says Roughguides.com. This can be quite a hassle especially if you get to the airport with very little time to go through security and luggage checks. Deliciousbaby.com says it pays to arrive early at the airport as it will give your child a chance to exercise in between the long car ride and the flights. Be organized. According to Deliciousbaby.com, bringing your kids along means having lots of small items or stuff hanging off the stroller or your carry all. This could cause long queues in security or bag checks when something falls off or gets caught in another object. Make sure all your kids’ items are neatly placed and secured in a bag. Roughguides.com warns against having your kids pack their own stuff. You never know when they’ll pack their whole collection of toys or worse, rocks. Set expectations. In flight, Deliciousbaby.com suggests explaining to your child about the long journey ahead and that it requires several hours of sitting still. Tell them you know that they can do it and that you’re there to help them if they would find the activity difficult. Don’t forget to remind them about the fun things that await them at the end of the flight. Bring travel toys. To keep kids busy while in transit, bring some toys but make them last says Deliciousbaby.com. This means allowing kids to play one toy at a time so that once they got bored over one, you’ll have another one for them to play with. Roughguides.com says to bring handheld puzzles, colouring books, stickers, wordsearches and even small packs of Plasticine. Family games can come in handy too especially during flight delays or heavy traffic.

Stay off sweets. Roughguides.com says you don’t want to be arriving in your destination with children in the middle of a sugar rush. Snacks like cheese cubes, breadsticks, fruits and bagels are recommended. Deliciousbaby.com suggests high protein snacks or those that take a while to eat. Don’t forget to bring a first aid kit. Kids always seem to get sick while on a holiday says Roughguides. com. Bring Calpol, antiseptic or antibacterial wipes, plasters, sting treatment, hand sanitizer and a thermometer. Have your own system of locating your kids. Roughguides.com says that it can get too crowded in airports or any transport terminals. You can always opt for backpacks with a leash or reins to keep your children within easy reach. But the website says kids easily get annoyed by them. Writing your mobile number on your kid’s arm is less restrictive and very helpful in case they get lost. Investing in a child locator is recommended, too. Here, the kid wears a small unit strapped to a belt or shoe and the parent keeps the transmitter. Once the kid wanders away, set off the alarm and then follow the sound to find them. Be ready for the climate. Roughguides.com says to do your research and bring clothes fit for the climate of your destination. Make sure your kids are comfortable with what they’re wearing. Book ahead. When staying in hotels, Roughguides. com says booking ahead will save you from dealing with tired and hungry kids throwing a fit upon finding out in your destination that you don’t have a room for the night. Let them keep a travel journal. Encourage kids to have a small notebook with them so they can write or draw the things that interested them, says Roughguides.com. This way they’ll be reminded of the fun activities they did and make their travel experience more personal for them. Let them collect and write postcards and if they’re old enough, give them a camera. You never know what wonderful photos they’ll take.

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RELATIONSHIPS

WHENTHETRAVEL BUG PLAYS CUPID by Maan D’Asis Pamaran

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efore their love affair, Manila girl Janice Tapang was finishing her master’s degree and at the same time, working as an English teacher in Seoul, while German national Mirko Koehler was working in Hong Kong. Their paths crossed in Boracay. They are now blissfully wed. Janice recalls their first encounter. “I took a vacation in 2010 to catch up with my two very good friends from the University. Both of them are based in Singapore. That particular trip was the very first trip I had in eight years since I started working. We decided to meet up in Boracay since none of us had been there. On our second night on the island, my friends and I decided to go to a bar, and we were basically laughing,

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drinking and dancing. One of my friends started talking to a guy, who turned out to be Mirko’s friend. So, Mirko and I had no choice but to talk as well. From then on, our stay in Boracay became not only being with my friends but also with Mirko and his friends.” She went back to Seoul and Mirko went back to Hong Kong, but they kept in touch. “I had no idea that I gave him my email address and that he added me on Facebook. I received an FB message from him telling me he misses me a lot and that if he could visit me in Seoul the following week. From there, we never stopped seeing each other.” Was it love at first sight? Janice and her husband both agree that it was. “Though the idea of it sunk in a bit later,

at least to me.” she reveals. “One day, we were talking about this meeting and ended up asking each other what we remember the most from when we first met. He told me that for him, it was the morning of my flight. He sent me back to my room to pack. It was raining so we borrowed this huge umbrella from the hotel. We walked 10 to 15 minutes to look for a tricycle to take us faster to my hotel. That walk, according to him, was very romantic and at that point in time he already knew he would follow me everywhere I go.” She continues, “As for me, I told him it was the group dinner date the day after we met. I remember telling my friends to walk slowly and be at least five minutes late, because I didn’t want


to look too excited to see him. This scene keeps flashing in my head as if it just happened yesterday: It was yet another beautiful Boracay sunset. I saw him first. He looked up and gave me a nervous smile. I couldn’t forget his turquoise green eyes looking back at me. I am not sure if it was the sunset or his blondness that made him shine. I remember Mirko looking straight into my eyes, giving a shy-nervous smile and he was shining!” The Filipino tradition of courtship does not apply, especially when one is on a time limit. Janice says their relationship took a shortcut. “I wouldn’t say there was such a thing as a courting period in our relationship. It was like, we met in Boracay and in two weeks, we just knew that we had to be together despite the distance, because it was what we strongly felt we should do.” She shares: “Our relationship was established as easy as this: We were in bed talking and laughing when he told

me he’s going to be a good boy and I should promise that I will wait for him. He said this because at the time I was still a half year away from finishing my masters and of course, he had to go back to Hong Kong… and my reply was “OK.” They were wed in Hong Kong, and now enjoy life together in Singapore. “Life abroad is challenging, fun and sometimes somewhat unbearably hard. I say challenging because all the opportunities are here. Nowadays, I can confidently say that wherever I end up, I can somehow manage to keep a decent life.” She gives her thoughts on love. “It doesn’t come with happiness alone. It is also accompanied with a lot of circumstances that will disappoint and hurt you. Love will present itself in ways that will test your limits. It will drive you to the unknown where you either get lost completely or discover the stronger you.” Janice and Mirko stopping for a rest during a hike to the Bastei Bridge.

“THE FILIPINO TRADITION OF COURTSHIP DOES NOT APPLY, ESPECIALLY WHEN ONE IS ON A TIME LIMIT.”

GOING THE DISTANCE Janice Koehler speaks from personal experience, talking about living overseas because of love:

The couple on their wedding day in Hong Kong.

MEET AND GREET Here are some pointers to remember when hooking up while on tour: > Keep it casual. While you might feel that the skies have literally opened up and dropped the man of your dreams on your lap, don’t change that Facebook status right away or make a wedding guest list. This will set out a vibe that might scare the guy off. Take baby steps and enjoy the moment! > Get to know your date. If you are looking for something that will last for more than a summer fling, talk to him about his interests and find out what you have in common. > Stay safe. We cannot emphasize this

enough. When you are going out on a date, let someone in your group know where you are headed. Also, pack some protection along, to prevent an unplanned pregnancy or worse, HIV. > Speak up. Foreigners may not get the concept of the Filipino “hiya” (shyness). Don’t be afraid to express yourself! This may also be a tip towards keeping you safe on a date: don’t hesitate to speak up if something makes you uncomfortable. > Be yourself. If you are thinking of turning a summer fling into the real thing, don’t hide your true self. Share something about your background, career, and interests. This will help both of you gauge if that chance encounter can turn into something more serious.

> If you think you can handle the complications of love and at the same time be thousands of miles away from the family that you know will always help you get through with every problem, then pack your things and book a flight. > Follow your heart but never ever put your personal growth aside. Love only works when the individuals involved are both being true to themselves and carefully telling each other the things that hurt them and how they want to be treated. > Go for it! Together with your heart, take your dreams with you. Make sure you know what you exactly want. Learn how to be independent. Not every love story has happy endings. Make yourself that someone you can depend on when the universe doesn’t conspire with your hopes and dreams. > I could be spoiling all the positivity you have invested in the idea of moving away from home because of love, but then again I am just being true to what I would like to share. My advice? Do not be afraid to follow your heart because love is the very reason why our lives are worth living. If you don’t know what is waiting for you on the other side of the door, try opening it anyway. When happiness welcomes you, laugh your heart out. When challenges cross your way, be strong and beat it! Never fear trying, most especially for love. #08 2014

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SHOPPING

Travel essentials Versatile bag The Bravo travel collection redefines versatility with contemporary, casual styling and high-performance functionality. Go anywhere with this convertible backpack whether for work, school or a weekend getaway. Wheel it effortlessly through city streets or carry it on your back. A compact carry-on size with plenty of space for clothing and accessories, it even features a convenient laundry/ shoe pocket. Made from soft and durable ballistic nylon, Bravo lets you gear up for every kind of adventure. Price starts at €335. Available at www.tumi.com The art of travel Nowadays, we are inundated with advice on where to travel but we hear so little of why we should go and how we would be more fulfilled doing so. The Art of Travel is a philosophical look at the ubiquitous but peculiar activity of travelling “for pleasure,” with thoughts on airports, landscapes, museums, holiday romances, photographs, exotic carpets and hotel mini-bars. The book mixes personal thoughts with insights drawn from some of the great figures of the past. Unlike existing guidebooks on travel, it dares to ask what the point of travel is, and suggests how we could learn to be less silently and guiltily miserable on our journeys. Price starts at €12. Available on www.amazon.com/The-ArtTravel-Alain-Botton. Also available in Kindle. Capture beautiful memories Document your travels and make beautiful photos without having to lug your heavy DSLR around. The Fuji X100s is a powerful compact camera that features Fujifilm’s APS-C 16M X-Trans CMOS II sensor for taking crisp, high quality images. It also has a fixed 23mm F2.0 Fujinon lens in 35mm format that delivers a view ideal for a diverse range of subjects like scenes and whatever captures the photographer’s eye. Price starts at €1199. Perfect travel buddy If you want to keep connected or just want to bring all your favourite books without increasing your baggage weight, grab an iPad Air. The latest addition to the Apple tablets weighs only half a kilo but has a clear display due to its Retina technology. It’s also stylish and packed with built-in apps essential for your travels like maps, Facetime, camera and your favorite music. Price starts at €418.

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Digital tourism Getting around some of the top tourist destinations in the Philippines is now as easy as checking out your smartphone. Digital Tourism, a nationwide program initiated by Cebu-based new media startup InnoPub Media and giant telecommunications network Smart Communications Inc., is making it possible for tourists to visit and know more about certain landmarks in the country, find out the best places to eat, and look for hotels without the need for tour guides. It even allows you to call emergency hotlines at the touch of a fingertip via its active listings. “Digital Tourism is a project that harnesses technology to deliver tourism information to mobile phones and tablets,” says Max Limpag, co-founder of InnoPub Media. Tourists need only to download the app or mobile phone guide specific for the destination. Available so far are apps for Cebu (Argao, Boljoon), Iloilo (including Santa Barbara town and the Dinagyang Festival), and Baguio (including the Panagbenga Festival). There is also a standalone app for the Sinulog Festival in Cebu. Each app contains an e-book, a map, a list of Tourism Department-accredited hotels and restaurants, directory, among others. The founders set up site markers, which deliver information via phone scanning of QR codes or tapping the NFC sticker with an NFCcompatible phone, in the tourist spots to make the travel experience more interactive. The apps can be downloaded from Google Play Store and Windows Phone Store. For more information, visit www.innopub.com.

Step into heritage chic Ellesse, an Italian heritage brand, is now in the Philippines. It recently launched its summer 2014 collection at the trendy Bonifacio High Street. Ellesse makes hues the focal point of its latest collection - dividing the line into pastels and black and white pieces. For men, Ellesse rolled out a number of classic polo shirts that bear simplistic yet timeless designs like stripes and colorblocking. Meanwhile, the pastel varieties for women are much more simplistic yet punchy. Stylish ladies may enjoy pairing plain pastel hued polo shirts with printed skirts and bottoms. The Primer Group of Companies is the exclusive distributor of Ellesse in the Philippines.


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#08 2014

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BAGOONG IN MY PAELLA

by Nats Sisma Villaluna

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n my way home after class, my phone rang. “¡Nata! Vamos a Francia mañana!” Tomorrow! My friends found a very cheap car for five people. And they were determined to go on a road trip to France. We hit the road before the sun was up. Gustavo was the official driver and Sergio, the map reader. I was seated in the backseat beside Gustavo’s wife, Andrea and their two kids. We took the route north of Spain, creeping through Lugo, driving past sleeping cows. The sun was shining when we reached the coastal towns of Asturias. The view was spectacular. Rustic houses and vast fields greeted us as we drove by. It was raining when we entered the Cantabrian city of Santander and the industrial city of Bilbao. Lulled by the rain beating against the roof of the car, the squeaking noise of the windshield wiper, and Gustavo driving so slowly, I fell asleep. I was awoken by the sound of a dying engine. The rain had finally stopped. We were now in the Basque town of Irun where we rested for a while before moving on to Bordeaux. This time, Sergio sat behind the wheel and Gustavo moved to the back seat to catch some sleep. As we crossed the first French town after Irun, the car stereo automatically shifted to French songs and my mobile phone vibrated to the welcome text of a French mobile phone company. Sergio read the road signs in French. Battalions of French trees welcomed our entry. Several bridges and tunnels later, we finally found Bordeaux. It was 11 in the evening when Sergio finally switched off the engine. With my bad French combined with hand gestures, I tried to get us a room for the night at the first hostel we saw. No available rooms. Full. Plein! The same went for the other hostels nearby. The main square was still full of people. Men in groups talking, smoking, drinking. Lovers sitting together in one corner whispering sweet nothings. The shadows of old buildings and houses lurked above us. Gustavo’s kids were already showing signs of fatigue. I could hear my stomach grumbling. We hadn’t eaten any good meal since our last stop in Irun. With no place to go, we decided to stay inside the car instead. Before joining Gustavo and family, Sergio and I walked around to look for food. Gustavo and Andrea filled their empty stomachs with chocolate biscuits. The kids were already too tired to even take

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TowerTrippin’ a bite. Dieu merci for kebabs. They were practically everywhere even in the wee hours of the morning. On our way to the car, we bumped into a 24-hour underground car park for only 2 euros! That’s 40 cents each!

“I DARED TO STRETCH MY PIDGIN FRENCH TO THE LIMIT AGAIN TO ASK THE LANDLADY HOW FAR THE TOWER WAS FROM WHERE WE WERE. I FORGOT THE FRENCH WORD FOR ‘WALK’ SO I PLACED MY INDEX FINGER AND MIDDLE FINGER ON MY OPEN PALM MIMING A WALKING ACTION. SHE DIDN’T UNDERSTAND, OF COURSE. I ASKED AGAIN WITH TWO HANDS MAKING A FIGURE OF THE TOWER.” Gustavo revved up the car and drove out of the parking lot as the sun was just peeping out in the sky. Bordeaux was indeed lovely in daylight. As the city disappeared from the horizon, different hues of green fields presented themselves before us. The sky was diaphanous blue. The cool air swayed the green grass making them dance with the yellow wildflowers on the verge of bloom. Sergio searched for

the right French FM station to play the background music to this marvelous sight around us. Two hours later, we found a gasoline station. We cleaned ourselves up, brushed our teeth and had hot croissants. Cleaned, fresh and stuffed, we hit the national road which kept us from paying the exorbitant toll fees starting from 40 euros. It was three in the afternoon when Gustavo slammed on the brakes and declared that we were already in Paris. Everyone bolted excitedly out of the vehicle. We took out our cameras and craned our neck looking for the tower. But we couldn’t find THE tower! It was decided that the tower could wait, we needed a room first. We entered a restaurant which offered bed and breakfast on the second floor. We asked for two rooms. The owner was a nice middle-aged madame whose French was so thick my basic French just went kaput. The rooms were alright and the bathroom was communal. “La distahns de la tour and issi?” I dared to stretch my pidgin French to the limit again to ask the landlady how far the tower was from where we were. I forgot the French word for “walk” so I placed my index finger and middle finger on my open palm miming a walking action. She didn’t understand, of course. I asked again with two hands making a figure of the tower. “La tour! La tour est á Paris!” We couldn’t get what she was saying. Suppressing a smile, the lady turned towards the shelves and handed me a flyer. I gave the flyer to Gustavo who gave us an embarrassed smile. We lost no time and ran out of the place leaving the landlady scratching her head in confusion. It turned out that we were in Issy-LesMoulineaux. Not Paris. Nobody dared to say a word. We sat in the car admiring the view while Gustavo drove in silence. We finally made it to, oui! Paris. Gustavo made sure that we had a good glimpse of the tower looming mightily above the rooftops of the city’s skyscrapers before we scampered out of the car. Though the sky had slowly turned gray and melancholic, this didn’t dampen our spirits. We just couldn’t contain our excitement. We parked the car, rushed to the foot of the tower, snapped some pictures, lots of them; and finally remembered that we needed to look for a hostel. We found a nice one after an hour of searching. The two-star hostel


managed by a friendly Algerian family was along Rue de Commerce, just a 10-minute walk from the city’s tallest and most famous landmark. I shared the room with Sergio. It was only eight o’clock in the evening. Save for Sergio who needed to catch some sleep, we decided to climb up the La Dame de Fer. Walking behind Gustavo and his wife, I found myself taking in every minuscule piece of image that I bumped into: the gait and glide of the locals on the street, the way they arranged the chairs outside the bars and restaurants - all facing the street which was naturally an excuse to do some people-watching without being invasive; the smell of freshly baked baguettes and croissants from a bakeshop was simply heavenly. All these tiny details made my heart skip a beat. We reached the foot of the tower and made our way to the queue. Four euros going up to the middle of the tower. Eight euros up to the top. We all bought the 4-euro ticket. Paris is not called the City of Lights for nothing. The whole city was covered with sparkling and bubbling lights. Looking down at the well-lit Champs Elysees, I imagined how Parisians celebrated after winning the 1998 World Cup. After feasting our eyes on the breathtaking view of the city, we went down and found ourselves sitting on one of the benches facing the tower. We gaped at the blinking lights hugging the enormous ironworks of Eiffel’s most popular creation. We stared at stylish mademoiselles in their chic spring outfits walking past us, talking on their mobile phones in their sexy Parisian accent. We ogled at snappy local yuppies in their slick classic trousers and light sweaters carrying their manpurses oblivious to excited tourists taking photos of every angle of the city. We discreetly gaped at mesdames walking their dogs with poise and so tres naturelle. And like their masters, the stylishly dressed pooches walked with a whiff of confidence and sharp elegance. After tiring our eyes from all that staring, which was very un-French, we decided to call it a day. At the hostel, it only took me a couple of minutes to wash up, slide into my pyjamas and finally hit the pillow. I had just released a couple of snores when I was awoken by some creaking and humping noises coupled with the sound of a woman moaning coming from the floor above us. I turned to Sergio and he too was staring at the ceiling. We looked at each other,

Tourists go up the Sacre Coeur to have a view of the whole of Paris. giggled a little and went back to sleep. The next day, our first stop was of course, la Tour Eiffel again! After capturing every angle of the tower, we went straight to the Palais de Chaillot. Pose. Snap. Place de L’Alma was next. Pose. Smile. Click. Champs Elysees was next. Classy bars and restaurants enveloped both sides of this worldrenowned avenue leading to the historic Arc de Triomphe. It was high noon when we reached The Arc. From there, we checked out the Grand Palais, Cours la Reine, Asemblee Nationale Palace Bourboun and Place de la Concorde. Museé du Louvre was next. We crossed the Seine and went down to Sainte Chapelle. Lunch was kebab right across the street. Moving on, I accidentally found Shakespeare & Co., the bookstore where Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy met in the movie, “Before Sunset.” Nearby is Notre Dame. The breathtaking views inside the enormous cathedral stopped us in our tracks. “¡Impresionante tío! ¡Que cosa tan bonita!” I heard Gustavo mumbling to himself as he clicked and snapped. By this time, the batteries of my camera died. Next stop was the colorful and weird Centre Culturel de Pompidou, then the Hotel de Ville. Our last stop was the Bastille. It was already six in the afternoon when we started to go back to the hostel. We took the other side of the river while having our first taste of Parisian crepe.

“PARIS IS NOT CALLED THE CITY OF LIGHTS FOR NOTHING. THE WHOLE CITY WAS COVERED WITH SPARKLING AND BUBBLING LIGHTS. LOOKING DOWN AT THE WELL-LIT CHAMPS ELYSEES, I IMAGINED HOW PARISIANS CELEBRATED AFTER WINNING THE 1998 WORLD CUP.”

Gustavo had a brilliant idea. Why not a night-car-tour of the city? So off we drove along the red district of Paris, passing by Moulin Rouge, and going up the Sacre Coeur and down to the Pantheon. Then we got lost. I had to stretch my French once again to ask several drivers on our way back. Sunday, our last day in Paris, was spent walking around L’ecole Militaire, the Hotel National des Invalides, the Opera and back to Notre Dame where we bought a handful of souvenirs from the shops in the area. At two o’clock we were already asking a French man the way that would lead us out of Paris. It was a lazy après-midi as we headed down south. As soon as the tip of the tower was nowhere in sight, we all started to relax. Some of us dozed off.

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TRAVEL

Couchsurfing: An alternative way to travel Text and photos by Jerick Parrone

“Never talk to strangers.” That’s what my mom used to tell me. But I rarely follow her advice especially here in Belgium. I could just imagine her freaking out if I tell her I don’t just talk to them, I sleep in the same room with them. The online travel community Couchsurfing.org has been helping more than three million members across the globe to stay as a “guest” in their host’s home abroad since it started in 2004. The premise of the community is quite simple. It offers travellers or “surfers” the opportunity to meet locals willing to offer their “couch” or place to crash in. By opening up their homes to these adventurers, the locals get the chance to meet new people and learn more about different cultures. All is founded on trust, without expectations of any sort of payment. To be able to fully enjoy the benefits of Couchsurfing, you need to build your profile through references/feedback from previous hosts or guests. The social networking platform is like Facebook meets Tripadvisor. I’ve been an active member since 2008, having surfed more than 10 times and hosted more than 40 people. What I like about Couchsurfing is that it offers an alternative way to travel. It gives me the opportunity to see a destination in the eyes of a local, beyond

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guidebooks and expensive hotels. It helps me live like a local, discover places that only locals frequent and try food that normally I won’t even touch. Meeting people on the road –from South Korea to Switzerland and South Africa –and becoming friends with them are some of its perks. Simply put, it allows travellers to learn and genuinely experience a destination. The first time I tried Couchsurfing was when I travelled to Helsinki. Ashley, my host, allowed me to stay in his apartment for a couple of days. We shared conversations about expat living in Finland. He was even kind enough to introduce me to his friends. In Lisbon, I stayed with Joao, who lives in Bairro Alto, one of Lisbon’s hippest places. The view from his apartment beats that of any other hotel. I got invited to celebrate with his friends the Festas de Lisboa, the city’s biggest celebration. Artem and Oleksandr are two Ukrainians I met in Couchsurfing. It was July 2013 when they stayed in my place in Brussels. We instantly became good friends that I had to visit them again in Kyiv five months later. Couchsurfing is not perfect. There can be some bad experiences. When you think about it, you are dealing with strangers. Abuse of your hospitality is inevitable. The online group has been making efforts to make it more secure and reliable for both surfers and hosts. Be that as it may, Couchsurfing is still a life-changing experience. I recommend that you give it a try.


GET STARTED Here’s a couple of advice to make your travels richer and safer: Build your complete profile. Having your own profile is the first reference point for any host. Be as detailed and creative as possible. Write down your favorite music, books or the places you’ve been to. Make your couch request stand out. Enumerate the reasons why you want to meet your potential host – cite your common interests and why they should take you as a host or guest. Remember that Couchsurfing is more than just providing you a free place to crash in but a way to meet people and learn new cultures. Of course, mention the host’s name in your request. Be respectful of your guest and host. Again, remember that you are staying in a stranger’s place so be conscious of their house rules. It is important to read thoroughly your host’s profile to ensure that you will be comfortable with them and their place. If you are allergic to any particular animal, check if the host has pets. Give your host a present. It’s not necessary but it certainly makes for a nice gesture. The gift doesn’t have to be expensive. It can be a souvenir from your home country. Buying them a pack of beer or cooking them dinner would be much appreciated, too. Safety first. When in doubt, try suggesting to your host that you first meet in a public place before going to their place. Inform a friend or a family member that you are couch-surfing somewhere. Share your host’s Couchsurfing profile or address to a friend for added security. Parrone with a fellow couch surfer.

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COVER STORY

The Traveler’s Guide to Champagne Wishes and Caviar Dreams on a Budget Text and photos by Ken Subillaga

“Travel the world while you’re still young.” That has been my motto all these years. That’s why five years ago, I decided to quit my day job and started travelling the world. But how could you travel the world without enough funds, you ask? I say, it’s all about being creative and resourceful. I have embarked on countless journeys and most of them on a budget. To give you some tips, I am sharing with you my two-week trip to Iceland, France, Luxembourg, Switzerland, and Spain for less than €500.

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The Aurora Borealis. First leg: Reykjavik, Iceland (April 11-14) Santiago de Compostela (Spain) to Paris (France) via Vueling Airlines: €39,99 Paris to Reykjavik via WOW Air: €80,00 Accommodation (Welcome Apartments): €20 x 3 nights = €60 Total expenses: €179,99 Reykjavik is one of the best European cities I have ever been to. The city is so tiny, you could probably see the whole of it in one day. But just seeing it is different from exploring it so here are some of my recommendations. 1. Wander around the trendy city of Reykjavik. Start your day by having a nice breakfast in one of the local restaurants or better yet, prepare your own breakfast back at your apartment before heading out. Walk around the city and get to know how Icelanders live their everyday lives. Visit the largest church in the city called Hallgrimskirkja for an spectacular 360 degrees view of the city. You can also go to the pond to see the City Hall, the famous lake Tjörnin, the conference and concert hall called Harpa located near the port, the Viking Maritime Museum, among others. On your way back to your apartment, don’t forget to drop by the Viewpoint for a picturesque view of the snowcapped mountains. 2. A great gastronomic experience awaits you. Rotten shark meat maybe awfully pungent but it’s all worth a try. I ate one for free at the flea market near the harbor area. You can also try the smoked sheep’s head, sheep’s blood soup, or the puffin bird meat. But of course, there are other less exotic dishes on the menu. When in Reykjavik, do as the Icelanders do. In the end, we all want to say, “Been there, done that!” 3. See the Aurora Borealis or the Northern Lights. Anytime between September and April is the perfect time to be awed with this amazing natural phenomenon. The changing colors of pink-violet to blue-purple to green are a sight to behold. Never leave Iceland without capturing this beautiful memory. 4. Do the Golden Circle Tour. Although relatively expensive, it is worth every single penny. The trip brings you to the outskirts of Reykjavik to see Thingvellir National Park which boasts a dramatic landscape of cracks and fissures alongside the largest lake in Iceland. It is followed by a trip to Geysir which is simply divine. The sheer power of water and stream erupting from the ground due to the build up of extreme heat is truly awesome and really makes you feel how the ground beneath us is really alive. Lastly, you go on an unforgettable visit to the Gullfoss, one of the country’s most popular waterfalls. 5. Visit the Blue Lagoon. For some extra euros, arrange a day trip with your airport shuttle to this famous tourist spot. You can either walk around the lagoon taking great photos while nursing a warm cup of coffee or soaking yourself in the warm waters of the lagoon. Just a note though: Be ready to use lots of conditioner for a couple of days as the minerals in the lagoon make your hair super stiff thereafter.

The Louvre. Second leg: Paris, France (April 14-16) Reykjavik to Paris via WOW Air: €80,00 Accommodation through Airbnb: €20 x 2 nights = €40,00 Total expenses: €120,00 I’ve been to Paris six times already. It’s not one of my favourite cities but each time I go there, I still find lots of things to see and do in this romantic City of Lights. My last trip to Paris lasted for two days only. The first day, I went around the city to tour a friend. On the second day, we visited the Palace of Versailles which is just an hour’s train ride outside Paris. What can you do in Paris for a day? The best way to explore Paris if you are pressed for time is to begin your walk at Cite to see the Notre Dame Cathedral, Sainte-Chapelle and the Conciergerie where Marie Antoinette was held prisoner. From here, you can cross Pont Neuf up to the northern side of the Seine. From there, the Louvre is only a short walk away. Then, visit the Jardin des Tuileries and Place de Concorde. From here, you can go directly up the Champs Elysees to the Arc de Triomphe and cross Pont Alexander 3 which is by Grand Palais and Petit Palais to see the Hotel des Invalides and the Musee de L’Armee. Walk past the Musee Rodin and straight to the Eiffel Tower. Whew! You can easily do this in around three to four hours. In the evening, if you’re still up for a stretch, you can first visit the Center Pompidou and sit down for a crepe break. Then, take the metro to Montmartre (Abbesses line 12) and walk around the area a bit. Hike up the Sacre Coeur Cathedral on top of the hill to see the stunning view of the city at night. Go downhill directly to the Pigalle area where Moulin Rouge is.

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Third leg: Luxembourg (April 16-18) Paris – Luxembourg via car-sharing: €20 Accommodation through Airbnb: €20 x 2 nights = €40 Total expenses: €60,00 Luxembourg may be just a small country on the boarder of France and Germany but it is very unique and charming in its own way. A railway network provides easy access from all three adjacent countries such as France, Belgium and Germany. Mind you, this country is one of the most expensive in Europe. Suffice to say, there isn’t much choices when it comes to accommodation or lodging. Hotels are expensive, and hostels are a trickle that the only way to enjoy this destination on a budget is to stay at one of Airbnb’s accommodations. Things to do around the city vary depending on your taste. If you fancy a more relaxing afternoon, walk around the Old Town. You can pretty much do it in an hour or so. Wine or dine al fresco at the Place d’Armes, the main square. Hang around the main square where there is a cornucopia of international restaurants, bars and designer shops like Prada, Louis Vuitton, Longchamp Paris, and a lot more. From here, you can go straight to Place Guillaume II (also called Knuedler) and take a look around the market especially onweekends. See the changing of the guards at the Palais Grand Ducal nearby. Walk down South the narrow street to Place du St. Esprit to take the lift down to the Grund near the river Alzette. This is a fantastic way to spend your afternoon as there are lots of bars, cafes and restaurants to choose from. Be captivated by the mere sight of the Chateau de Vianden just like it captured Victor Hugo. Perched on a rocky hill over Vianden’s town, the chateau is one of the largest and most beautiful feudal residences of the Romanesque and Gothic periods in Europe. Witness one of Luxembourg’s most celebrated time of the year by visiting this country on June 23 to celebrate the monarch’s birthday along with thousands of tourists. It is around this time that the days are longer and the celebrations don’t stop until after the fireworks have gone at nightfall.

St. Paul’s Church in Strasbourg.

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Luxembourg charms with its picturesque towns. Fourth leg: Strasbourg, France (April 18-20) Luxembourg – Strasbourg via car-sharing: €10 Accommodation through Airbnb: €20 x 2 nights = €40,00 Total expenses: €50,00 Strasbourg is the capital and principal city of the Alsace region in Eastern France. It is also the official seat of the European Parliament. Located close to the border of Germany, Alsace’s architecture is influenced by both the Germans and the French. I simply love Strasbourg, and let me tell you why. First, accommodation is generally cheaper than any other cities in France and Airbnb has lots of them around the province of Alsace. Rents range from €20 to €30 per night. Second, French people on this side of France are friendlier. Third, you can spend the whole day just walking around the city and feasting on the best things the city could offer. What to do in one or two days? When the Strasbourg Cathedral or the Cathedral of Our Lady of Strasbourg (Notre Dame) was built in 1874, it became the world’s tallest building. Now, it is 6th in the world. This was followed by Gutenberg’s invention of the printing press in the city. You can start your city walk from here. The whole city is just sprawling with buildings and houses with such a unique architecture only found in Alsace. Beside the cathedral is the scene-stealing Maison Kammerzell. Built in 1427, the structure’s German Renaissance and late Gothic styles are hard to miss. It has an excellent restaurant on the 1st and 2nd floors. Not far from the cathedral is the large square called Place Gutenberg, which is a favorite for locals and tourists alike. It has lots of excellent cafés and restaurants. The Chamber of Commerce building occupies one side of the square and is easily recognizable with its Renaissance style combined with a sloping roof that is typical of Alsace, where the winter snow is a way of life. Another attraction is the flea market that is often set up around the statue at the centre of the square. Petite France is not far from the cathedral. It is an area on the Grand Ile called the “Venice of the North” because of its narrow streets and canals. It is a delightful place to visit, taking you back to Medieval Strasbourg. Around this area, you will be amazed of the well-preserved half-timbered houses that served as homes of fishermen, millers, and tanners in the Middle Ages. In the 15th century, a hospice was built on the island for small pox victims and later, for French soldiers suffering from syphilis – which the Germans called the “French disease” --to stop the local girls from sleeping with the soldiers. Just to the west of the area, you can visit the Barrage Vauban, a weir that crosses the River Ile. The weir was built in 1686 by Jacques Tarade. It has 2-storeys with wonderful sculptures on the main level.


Fifth leg: Basel-Zurich, Switzerland (April 20-22) Strasbourg to Basel via car-sharing: €9 Accommodation through Airbnb: €18 x 2 nights = €36,00 Total expenses: €45 Switzerland is perhaps one of the most expensive countries in the world. But it shouldn’t stop anyone from spending a marvelous time in the fascinating culture cities of Basel and Zurich located on the banks of the Rhine river. First off, grab a map from the nearest Tourism Office. Start your day at the Marktplatz, a famous square dominated by the Rathaus (City Hall), the seat of the Government of the Canton of Basel City. The market square that is just right in front of it is a cornucopia of local produce, flowers and homemade breads and delectable desserts. It is perhaps the best way to enjoy breakfast. You may want to purchase a slice of bread or a piece of warm bun as you walk through the various stalls. From here, you are now ready to stroll the Old Town where churches and government buildings are just as impressive. A visit to the Basel’s Münster, a Gothic cathedral that was built in the 11th century is a must. By dusk, the city brims with a lot of things to do. There are numerous restaurants serving most common types of ethnic cuisines but there are also that serve traditional Swiss dishes. Eating out in Basel is very expensive so take your time to go around and check their menus and the prices as well. Waitstaff in general do not expect tips for the great service they provide you. There are also a variety of dance clubs and clubbing options but a lot of people go to Zurich

for a much better option. You may check out the Basel Symphony and Basel Chamber orchestras for a change. The day after, you can head down to Zürich by train. In my case, I took a carpool service by Blablacar.com for only €5 and the same back to Basel in the afternoon. Zürich’s Old City or commonly called Zürich Altstadt lies between Limmat River and the train station. The city was originally surrounded by walls, which you can still see up to this day. You may start your stroll from the train station heading south to complete that traditional walking tour indicated on the map, which of course you can get from the Tourism Office located inside the station. Bahnhofstrasse is Zürich’s premier shopping street. They say that rental rates here are among the most expensive in the world. As you walk south, you will reach Rennweg. Walk on until you reach a pedestrianfriendly cobblestoned street. You can head left on Strehlstrasse and then to Lindenstrasse where a quaint park overlooking the Limmat River awaits you. It is the site of the former Roman fort. Continue on to Schlüsselgasse and to Thermengase until you reach the excavation site of a former Roman bath. Then head towards the Münsterhof, which name had been derived from the existing Fraumünster and the former convent located here. The Fraumünster is famous for its five stained glass windows designed by Marc Chagall. After leaving this site, head across the Cloister Bridge to the East bank of the Limmat River. On the right is the Helmhaus, a church with an exhibition centre.

THE SECRETS First, instead of staying in hotels, I stayed in privately owned properties. Airbnb provides such accommodations at a hostel price but with a homey environment. Second, I avoided the stressful bus and train rides and utilized planes and car-sharing instead (check out Blablacar.com). Third, when booking a flight, do it on the wee hours and most especially on Tuesdays when airline reservation systems are flooded with cancelled bookings of the previous week thus offering flight rates at the lowest. Pay special attention to airline companies such as Easyjet, Vueling, Ryanair, Wizzair and Wowair. Before travelling, research well about your destination: What should you see and do. Check the weather forecast so you can plan your wardrobe. Take note, you are going to some of the world’s most expensive cities so dress stylishly. Being stylish doesn’t necessarily mean bringing your whole closet with you. Travel light.

“SWITZERLAND IS PERHAPS ONE OF THE MOST EXPENSIVE COUNTRIES IN THE WORLD. BUT IT SHOULDN´T STOP ANYONE FROM SPENDING A MARVELOUS TIME IN THE FASCINATING CULTURE CITIES OF BASEL AND ZURICH LOCATED ON THE BANKS OF THE RHINE RIVER.” The Fraumunster Church and river Limmat in Zurich when the sun sets.

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Barcelona from Park Guell’s viewing deck. Sixth leg: Barcelona, Spain (April 22-24) Basel to Barcelona via Easyjet: €25 Accommodation through Airbnb: €10 x 2 nights = €20,00 Total expenses: €45 Barcelona is one of the most exciting cities of Spain. It has no limits but your calendar does. So it depends on how much time you can spend to get to know this amazingly diverse city. On the first day, it is a good idea to start your adventure visiting the Sagrada Familia where you’ll discover the rich symbolic masterpiece of Gaudi. Farther up, at the Park Güell, you will find the key to the Gaudecture (that’s how I call the interplay between nature and architecture). At around noontime, the neighbourhood of Gracia is a great option. A wide array of shops, restaurants serving world cuisine and design and art shops dot the area. In the afternoon, you can resume walking again from the not-so-distant Passeig de Gracia where you will find the heritage district, the Quadrat d’Or. Here you can visit Gaudi’s Pedrera and Casa Batllo and other

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landmarks such as Domenech I Montaner and Puig. Head down Plaza Catalunya and stroll your way down to the Mirador de Colon passing by La Rambla and La Boqueria Market. Go back up a little bit to Liceu Metro station and head northeast to visit some of Barcelona’s churches and museums. You will be passing by the Basilica de Santa Maria del Pi then moving on to Barcelona Cathedral. Walking along, you will encounter Jaume I where you will find the Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar as well as the Picasso Museum and the Chocolate Museum farther on. There is too much to see and do in this area so I suggest you spend an ample time exploring the nooks and crannies of this city. So there you go folks. Two weeks in five amazing European countries. Always remember that in every destination, good and bad things await so always pay attention to your flight schedules, personal belongings and of course make sure you’ve got plenty of courage to always ask questions. Happy travels!


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www.lvmcargo.nl info@lvmcargo.nl +31 8500 91 300

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FEATURE

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FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWD Text and photos by Ivan Henares

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eautiful white sand beaches, the rice terraces and colorful festivals are popular images of the Philippines. But with 7,107 islands to choose from, it definitely has a lot of off the beaten track destinations for the adventure-seeking visitor. They can be day-trips from Manila or a stay with an indigenous community in a picturesque natural landscape far from all the urban chaos. Here are a few suggestions to whet your appetite for travel. TAAL OLD TOWN While Vigan is the poster boy for colonial towns, just three hours from Manila is the old town of Taal, Batangas. Don’t confuse it for Taal Volcano and Tagaytay City which is a good 45 kilometers away. Old houses built during the Spanish colonial period line the main street leading to the 19th century Taal Basilica, which still is the largest Roman Catholic church in Asia. Walking through the town is a lesson in history and a window to colonial Philippines. Several of the ancestral homes are open to the public, many of them owned by heroes of the Philippine Revolution. Make sure to visit the two Villavicencio houses which are the best-maintained in town. Some houses have been converted into bed and breakfast facilities, giving visitors an opportunity to experience living in an ancestral house, even just for a night. Right beside the old municipal hall is the town market where one can buy good quality embroidered piña cloth, made from pineapple fiber, used to make the national dresses such as the barong, baro’t saya and terno. The town is also known for its butterfly knives called balisong, and its delicious pork sausages or longganisa. A walk down the centuries-old San Lorenzo Ruiz Steps, named after the first Filipino saint, will lead you to another old church known as the Caysasay Shrine, home to a 17th century image of Mary. While not as popular as the Laguna Loop or Viaje del Sol, the town is fast becoming a viable day-trip option from Manila as more restaurants and activities open this year. BATANES So much has been said and so much has been written about Batanes. But only a few actually get to visit. The best way to take in all the superlatives is really just to be there. Batanes is actually closer to Taiwan than it is to Manila. Flights are not cheap. And seats are limited. The rugged beauty of these islands will more than compensate for the costs. Basco is the charming seaside capital and the jumpoff point for the rest of Batan Island, with stunning blue ocean-meets-green mountain scenery. Visiting #08 2014

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Lake Sebu’s untouched natural landscape.

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Migratory and endemic birds are abundant from November to February in the Agusan Marsh.

neighbouring Sabtang Island is the best way to get acquainted with the unique Ivatan way of life with its old villages, traditional stone houses, colonial churches and stunning ocean views. The trip on a traditional boat called the falowa is not easy as the waters between Batan and Sabtang can get really rough. But you haven’t been to Batanes if you don’t set foot on Sabtang. There is decent accommodation. However, the best address on the island is Fundacion Pacita, a picturesque bed and breakfast on top of a hill with gorgeous island views! It does not come cheap though but is worth every euro. BANTAYAN ISLAND If Boracay Island is too crowded for you, there are dozens of other options. Bantayan Island in Cebu is one of them, with beautiful white sand beaches and a fantastic food scene that would keep you asking for more. Getting there from Cebu City will require you to take a three-hour bus ride to Hagnaya Port and an hour and a half ferry ride to the island. Once there, it’s all about the beach and the food. That’s just about everything you’ll need for your vacation.

CALAGUAS ISLANDS Now if you’re looking for a beach and only a beach, the Calaguas Islands in Camarines Norte is the go-to for many locals. With pristine white sand beaches and almost no development, this is as pure a beach can get! You’ll have to pitch a tent or camp out under the stars if you want to spend a night or two in paradise. If you don’t want to cook your own meals or bring a tent, there are many tour companies which can arrange this for you. From Manila, it’s an overnight bus to Paracale, one of the three possible jump-off points for the Calaguas Islands. The boat ride from Paracale is usually an hour and thirty minutes. The waves can be a bit rough given that Calaguas is already in the Pacific Ocean. Mahabang Buhangin Beach in Tinaga Island, the largest of the Calaguas Islands, is where most visitors spend the night. The view of the white sand beach and aquamarine blue water as we approached Mahabang Buhangin erased all the discomfort I had to deal with while on the boat. It was paradise! AGUSAN MARSH On the extreme for off the beaten track destination is the Agusan Marsh Wildlife Sanctuary. Visiting the

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Clockwise from left: One of the well-preserved ancestral homes in Taal, Batangas; White sand beaches abound in Calaguas Islands; Fresh catch can be enjoyed in Batanes. Agusan Marsh is a beautiful experience. But it’s not for the faint-hearted given the difficulties in reaching this picturesque wetland. The Manobos are the indigenous group of the Agusan Marsh. The community in Sitio Panlabuhan, Loreto, Agusan del Sur recently created a tourism program for their ancestral domain. At the moment, amenities at the Sitio Panlabuhan Floating Community are close to none, sleeping mats with mosquito nets in floating houses, no electricity and basic toilets. But it’s worth it, especially with the warm reception of the Manobos who live there. To get there, take a flight to Butuan City. You can spend a night in the city before proceeding to the marsh, and another night upon your return. It’s best to leave the rest of your luggage at the hotel you will stay at in Butuan and bring waterproof overnight bags for the trip to Agusan Marsh. Dry bags are highly

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recommended for cameras and mobile phones. The trip to Bunawan, the jump-off point for the Agusan Marsh, is between two to three hours for private vehicles. On a public bus however, it takes close to four hours with all the stops. It takes another three hours by river boat to get to the Agusan Marsh from Bunawan. So you have to be in Bunawan by lunch. The whole experience is about communing with nature. Bring a book to read or explore the marsh with the Manobos on a traditional paddleboat. They prepare your meals which is mostly freshwater fish they catch from the marsh, served with rice and vegetables. Migratory and endemic birds are abundant during the cold months from late November to early February. If you’re ready for an adventure, e-mail pangulimansibug@yahoo.com to contact the community.


Juan EU Konek: Inspiring Stories of Pinoys in Europe

The hosts: (From left) Danny Buenafe, Gene Alcantara and Rose Eclarinal.

Need to clean up your mess Fil-Belge Titres-Services provides you with the most reliable, qualiiied and well-experienced household helpers (M/F) who will do the cleaning, ironing and cooking.

T

he Filipino Channel explores the rich and varied stories of Pinoy expatriates in Europe through a new, monthly magazine program called Juan EU Konek. Airing every first Sunday of the month on ABS-CBN’s global channel, Juan EU Konek brings to life the passions, adventures and success stories of Filipinos in different parts of Europe. It also discusses our kababayans’ political and social concerns including immigration matters. Juan EU Konek was first conceptualized by Rose Eclarinal as oneoff specials for the 20th anniversary of TFC. She wanted to showcase in detail the lives of these Filipinos living in Europe through a longer media format. She aims to bring out their stories, aspirations and concerns more vividly. The 45-minute program is hosted by ABS-CBN Europe’s news team of seasoned journalists: Danny Buenafe, Rose Eclarinal and Gene Alcantara. It is TFC Europe’s first foray into long-form, magazine reporting. As Juan EU Konek’s executive producer, Eclarinal is excited about the potential of the show. ”I am so grateful for this opportunity. Now, our team can do more in-depth stories and presentation on the issues concerning the Filipino diaspora in the region, as well as features on the inspiring stories of our kababayans who are making us proud by excelling in various fields. I look forward to telling inspiring stories that showcase the core values of Filipino migrants.” Buenafe adds, “As a news format, Juan EU Konek goes beyond the mere news item. It’s a medium where we can further tell the story of overseas Filipinos at length, their triumphs and failures, how they cope with foreign cultures and fight depression with their families back home.” Juan EU Konek airs again on TFC on July 6 at 10:35 pm (Italy, EU) and 11:35 pm (Saudi Arabia, ME), with replays on Thursdays at 9:05 am (Italy, EU) and 8:45 am (Saudi Arabia, ME). It can also be seen at www.tfc.tv for subscribers.

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Thelma Nullar +32 486 70 66 15 thelmanullar@yahoo.com thelmanullar@ thelmanullar@@ilbelge.eu #08 2014

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FEATURE

AN ADVENTURE TO THE CORDILLERA (PART 1)

by Bart Wijnberg photos by Robin Kuijs

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inglayan, that was such a magical name of a town in the Cordillera; even more the strange sounding to the ears, Conner, another place I had encountered on the map. The sound of their names had always intrigued me and magnetized me to go there. I had been trying to get to Tinglayan, in spite of the warnings that this was a dangerous place, and one needed a guide. It reminded me of the many warnings not to go to just anywhere. It started in 1972 when my in-laws in San Fernando, Pampanga sternly told me: Don’t go to Porac, 10 kms away. There are NPA’s and Hukbalahap there and it is dangerous for whites… I am still alive and nothing happened. Would you know where Tinglayan and Conner are? I asked lowland Filipinos but after Baguio their world stopped. Our trip would bring us to uncharted territory, and to a different culture. Years ago my first try to go there failed. On this trip we were better prepared. We hired a guide through a good friend of ours in Baguio who knew all the locals, and this guide in turn knew all the locals outside Baguio. A helpful feature. He was a Kalinga himself. We asked him to check the road conditions for the long trip we intended to make: Baguio, Bontoc, Tabuk, Kabugao in Apayao province, and then west to Laoag. The roads were there, he assured us. A friend of mine asked us what kind of trip we would have in mind: “What do you intend to do, see in the places you suggested? We can either make this a food trip, a mountain hiking trip, a poke-around-andsee-the-culture type of visit.” Given the age, health and physical conditions of the company, my wife being 75, her sister 73 with sore knees, so she could not do

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“I HAD BEEN TRYING TO GET TO TINGLAYAN, IN SPITE OF THE WARNINGS THAT THIS WAS A DANGEROUS PLACE, AND ONE NEEDED A GUIDE. IT REMINDED ME OF THE MANY WARNINGS NOT TO GO TO JUST ANYWHERE.”

much walking, her son of 50, and I, 68, we decided it could only be “a poke-around-and-see-the-culture type of visit”. This meant sitting in the car and drive… for days… So, on a sunny Tuesday in February we set off for our first day’s trip: San Fernando-Baguio, where we would meet our guide. My sister-in-law preferred the longer Marcos Road over the scenic Kennon Road on our way to Baguio. When we first took the Marcos Road, years ago, the transverse slopes in the curves were exactly opposite of what they should have been. So one had to be extremely careful in driving, especially downwards. We noticed that the giant concrete bust of former President Ferdinand Marcos himself, which had ‘adorned’ this highway, seemed no longer to be there. We had dinner with our guide, whom we had just met, and with this good old friend of ours who recommended the guide to us. When we were near Bontoc, our guide received news about a big accident involving a bus from Manila on its way to Bontoc. It had fallen off the road into a ravine, 14 passengers were killed and 32 were injured. Seventeen of our guide’s friends happened to be on that bus. A Dutch national was also involved. So you can imagine that the two mobile phones of our guide were busy the hours afterwards. He proved that he knew ‘everybody’: he called a friend in Isabela Province who could arrange with the military the necessary airlifting of victims. The Bontoc General Hospital where some of the victims were brought to did not have surgical facilities. The family had reached Bontoc.


“I ALSO REMEMBER A FRIEND OF MINE FROM BAGUIO, WHO INSISTED TO WEAR HIS ‘TRIBAL’ COSTUME DURING HIS FORMAL UNIVERSITY PHD CEREMONY. HE WORE HIS G-STRING, TOPPED BY A SHIRT AND BLAZER.”

THE DIGNITY OF A G-STRING I remembered Bontoc from years ago, as a place where old men would still walk around in G-strings. Dignified! I also remember a friend of mine from Baguio, who insisted to wear his ‘tribal’ costume during his formal university PhD ceremony. He wore his G-string, topped by a shirt and blazer. Dignified! But G-strings seem to have died out in Bontoc these days, and even farther afield they were virtually non-existent. Western culture, or Filipino lowland culture had taken over the vestimentary habits. Sayang. THE BONTOC MUSEUM Before we left the town of Bontoc, we still were able to visit the Bontoc Museum. Not to be missed! It is a place full of artifacts and pictures of the Igorot cultures. When you are there, do not forget to visit the library, indeed a very rich source of literature. After the museum visit we set out from Bontoc in northeasterly direction, along the Chico River. The road is partly cemented from what I remember; it is narrow, but there is hardly traffic. As I said: the lowland Filipino world with all the traffic, all the music noise, etc. ends in Baguio, or certainly in Bontoc. Banaue to the south of Bontoc has some more traffic, and far more visitors. Only the adventurous and those who have time take the road via Bontoc, the others come directly from Manila through Cagayan Valley, Nueva Ecija, Nueva Vizcaya, Bayombong, Lagawe. But those places are not on our itinerary. Mountains, is what we want. Our road lies between high mountains, the valley is rather narrow, but absolutely gorgeous. I am driving the Montero, and I am enjoying every minute of it. AN ADVENTURE IN A HOT SPRING Our first stop was Sadanga. My friend in Baguio had selected this place especially for me, as it is one of the last places, it seems, where men and women bathe au naturel, albeit in separate spaces. The Sadanga hot springs are at the end of a side road, leading up to the mountains. At the village square we parked our car and headed for the springs. The male section is difficult to negotiate, as the floor and path are

uneven, but we reached our goal. One old man was already enjoying the hot spring, au naturel indeed. So I undressed and took to the water. What happened next should not be written down, but I do it anyway, as it happened twice in ten minutes. The old man started jerking at his titi, indicating to me how to use mine… I didn’t know how to react. Ten minutes later a second old man joined us, AND DID THE SAME THING…. Our guide seemed too shy to join the nude crowd, a pity as shared nudity creates a bond, but he was willing to photograph and film our little group. The ladies, my wife and her sister, enjoyed their hot spring at leisure. There was a lady of around 90 years old with her granddaughter or great-granddaughter, and all the ladies had a nice conversation. All were naked, only later on some younger women in their 40s joined the group but did not undress completely. They were on their way to work in the mountains. The male part of the bath could have been cleaner, I thought, and also the female part needed some upkeep, but all in all it was a pleasant experience. Closer to Bontoc, on a different side road leading to the North are Mainit Hot Springs. More visible from outside, it seems, a little larger, is my impression, and therefore: bathing suits de rigueur, we were told by our police woman who had been there. We skipped it. While we were waiting for the ladies to come back, I had a chat with two women who worked in offices in Sadanga and were passing the village square. One was not afraid to disclose she was a tomboy. Her courage pleasantly surprised me. TINGLAYAN Back on the “main” road we headed for the promised land, at least the land that I had promised myself to visit: Tinglayan. It turned out to be a small village along the road. Nothing spectacular, no menacing men with spears or guns, no G-strings either - we will later hear a story about those - but quiet village life. We had lunch in a “specialty restaurant,” to quote our guide, who must have eaten here before. He knew the lady who owned the restaurant, he knew her sister, brother, father…, and he chewed betel. In short: We were safe. (To be continued...)

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FEATURE

TRIP TO QUIAPO (APOLOGIES TO RICKY LEE) Text and photos by Vincent Silarde

Q

uiapo district used to be the centre of commercial and cultural life in the Philippine capital until it somehow lost its footing as the metropolis that is Metro Manila expanded, developed and gave birth to new and more modern cultural and commercial enclaves. It has terribly lost its “glitter” and has become synonymous with proverbial third world urban plight: abject poverty, dirt, violence and decadence. Nevertheless, Quiapo’s cultural significance has remained if not increased as it continues to simply be itself or what her inhabitants and patrons wish her to be without apology and pretension. She might not have the body and form of business and lifestyle quarters that the State now prefers to show off and glorify like a trophy girlfriend. But her heart beats more similarly and sympathetically with that of a greater number of Filipino people who, like her, continues to struggle to come to terms with and be side-lined by modernity. Look for any list of recommended tourist destinations in the Philippines and it is unlikely that you would find Quiapo in there. Among Filipinos, a trip to Quiapo is usually made with a high degree of caution as the prospect of being robbed of money, cellular phone, among others, comes to mind. The heavy and taxing traffic and pollution that comes with a Quiapo sojourn can also be discouraging. Yet the district manages to keep an arsenal of charms intact and pilgrims of different devotions and persuasions are continuously lured by it. In a largely Catholic society, it is expected that Quiapo’s main draw is the Basilica of the Black Nazarene or Quiapo Church. Thousands of devotees

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Quiapo Church.


“QUIAPO’S CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE HAS REMAINED IF NOT INCREASED AS IT CONTINUES TO SIMPLY BE ITSELF OR WHAT HER INHABITANTS AND PATRONS WISH HER TO BE WITHOUT APOLOGY AND PRETENSION.”

American-era building’s reflection on dirty estero.

Chinatown in Binondo. go to the Church for its regular Friday Novena. Come Jan. 9, millions attend the feast of the patron in what can easily pass as one of the most stunning manifestations of religious devotion in the Philippines. In 2014 alone it was estimated that 2 million people went to Quiapo to celebrate the feast of their beloved Black Nazarene for whom they attribute and seek succor and comfort. The annual Translacion, or the procession of the Black Nazarene around the district and back into the church, is nothing short of epic. Hundreds of thousands of barefoot men and women squeeze their way and sometimes get hurt to be able to just wipe hankies or touch what they believe to be the miraculous icon of the saint. Quiapo is also a good place for street photography because it is always teeming with pedestrians at any given time in the day and early evening. Pedestrians and vehicles of different forms and sizes inch their way in its streets crowded by an eclectic mix of street and ambulant vendors, parishioners, students, tramps, petty thieves, and children at play. Moreover, the entire place is replete with contradictions that easily make it one of most abundant sources of street photographic narratives and epiphanies. The iconic Church, for instance, stands as a striking counter-discourse to the marginal and subaltern identities and activities happening in its immediate environs. Fortune tellers also dot the plaza fronting the church and so do vendors of various items and concoctions, including those alleged by some to be agents used for selfadministered abortion. Right outside the doorsteps of this highly venerated and imposing house of god, there also lives a community of people burdened by homelessness, hunger and other forms of depravity from the most basic of human needs who interact with

church goers from various walks of life and economic backgrounds. And as if by design of a photography god, Quiapo is incidentally also home to the famous camera and electronics hub centred on Hidalgo Street. The streets and alleys leading to and away from the church, furthermore, are sites of some form of pilgrimages in their own right. The Shopping arcade in Raon is famous for cheap electronics and homewares. Before the intensive campaign of the Optical Media Board against piracy, Quiapo was also the go-to place for cheap and up-to-date and extensive collection of movies and music in CDs and DVDs. On some occasions, dildos and sex toys are also sold in covert or open manner on Quiapo’s many bangketas. Although mostly covered now by dirt and excesses of various human activities, history and heritage managed to survive, albeit wantingly, at the heart and fringes of Quiapo. Old structures like century-old houses and buildings dot the body of this district that was once the epicentre of urban pomp and pageantry. Among those which survived is the Bautista-Nakpil House on Ariston Bautista Street. This mansion, which is now a museum, used to be the home of Gregoria de Jesus, the widow of Philippine revolutionary hero Andres Bonifacio, and musician Juan Nakpil who is himself a member of the Katipunan. In nearby F. R.Hidalgo Street, there still stands the Ocampo mansion, which was the original site of the University of the Philippines Conservatory of Music. A short walk from Quiapo can also lead you to the famous Chinatown in Binondo and the Golden Mosque. The adjacent neighborhoods of Escolta, Sta. Cruz and Avenida are also filled with reminders of the district’s glorious past as evidenced by the presence of grand structures like the Roman Santos Building in Carriedo, the art-deco Manila Metropolitan Theater, and the Far Eastern University Building, among others. Quiapo is also where Filipinos first experienced cinema through the Life Theater and Time Theater along Quezon Boulevard. Both buildings still stand today but are mostly snubbed since commercial cinema migrated to shopping malls. Also along Quezon Boulevard is the Ma Mon Luk restaurant. This place famous for its mami and siopao has been in operation for 50 continuous years and has never bothered to update and upgrade its interiors. So depending on one’s sensibilities, it can either look vintage and charming or old and desolate. A trip to Quiapo is never easy if one takes into account the risks involved and the assault on the senses that could come with it. But as in the case of many adventures that entail a certain degree of peril, the rewards can be all worth it. Aside from the great bargains and a glimpse of past, you also get the chance to get hold of a certain kind of (street) wisdom that could only come from this place of contradictions and no-pretensions.

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DINING

PHILIPPINE CUISINE:

A WORLD OF WONDERS by Diana A. Uy photos by Robin Kuijs

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ENJOYING PINOY FOOD Culinary guru Nancy Reyes-Lumen offers some tips on getting the most out of the Filipino food experience: For beverage, try fresh buko (coconut) juice from the nut. Best if chilled. Rice is a must-have. It is the bland background for the rich sauces of adobo, kare-kare, sinigang, inihaw (sweet and sour and salty bbq’d meats), pakbet and fresh lumpiang ubod. Have an array of just steamed or grilled fresh seafood taken with a variety of dipping sauces: freshly squeezed calamansi, fish sauce, naturally fermented vinegars, Chinese soy sauce, bagoong (shrimp paste) and sweet-sour pickled vegetables. Eat under a nipa (palm) roof with food placed on a banana leaf slightly singed over coals to add some smokey fragrance to the whole ensemble. End the meal with desserts made of fresh fruits like mangoes, and if there’s still room, the famous halu-halo.

“FILIPINO FOOD IS IN FACT ON THE THRESHOLD OF BECOMING THE NEWEST CULINARY DARLING OF WORLD GASTRONOMY.” Mango juice.

W

hat makes Filipino cuisine unique is something that evades many foreigners. Compared to other Asian countries like Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam, the Philippines has yet to establish its place in the global food arena. That was before. Television host, culinary expert and cookbook author Nancy Reyes-Lumen says Filipino food is in fact on the threshold of becoming the newest culinary darling of world gastronomy. According to her, misconceptions about the Pinoy food are becoming a thing of the past. She explains that from the global gastronomic point of view, it used to be that the Philippine cuisine was thought of as lacking in variety of color thus it was not appetizing. “There was no ‘red’ element to attract the eye. Most of the dishpresentations seen in our food photos were brown, shades of brown, greasy, oily food with unrecognizable meat cuts under a cover of thick brown sauce. The recipes were too diverse. They lack a definitive taste profile.” Philippine cuisine was described as “primitive” as well, having only two tastes - salty and sour - dominating most recipes. Some dishes and ingredients were even considered much too exotic for international standards. Think dinuguan (some European countries have blood sausage which uses pig’s blood as main ingredient), balut (Vietnam’s own

recipe has eggs that are “older”), dog meat, insects like crickets and grasshoppers, bagoong, among others. Reyes-Lumen says that global travel and work overseas have spurred a culinary revolution among the traditionalists and the young chefs. As such, the Filipino cuisine is now at its most exciting and creative era. “We are in the cross currents of global-regionaltraditional movements when it comes to our food. Our cuisine is taking shape. It is becoming healthier, fresh, [and] more nutritious.” Good press and tourism efforts are also helping clear the stage for the launch of Filipino food to world class levels. DEFINING FILIPINO CUISINE Reyes-Lumen defines Filipino cuisine as a rich, flavorful mix of East-West influences interwoven with the fresh seafood and coconuts of the islands. The Philippines was once a colony of Spain, the US, and Japan. “Our traditional cuisine is of a diverse colonial as well as Malay thread,” enthuses Reyes-Lumen. “Spanish/Mexican ingredients and cooking techniques are basic cooking styles in homes. Chinese cooking abounds as deeply rooted as the Filipino’s love for American food.” The food expert says Spain and Mexico introduced us to ingredients like fruit-bearing trees, vegetables, pantry goods like butter, sugar, milk, among others. They also taught us cooking techniques like guisado.

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She adds that the only missing link to European cooking was the use of wine which the creative Filipino substituted with vinegar leading to many new recipes and innovations. Composed of 7,107 islands, the Philippines has long coastlines rich with coconut trees. “From this ‘tree of life’ we get coconut milk, coconut water, heart of palm, and leaves used as natural food wraps.” The base flavor of Philippine food, Reyes-Lumen says, is Malay because it is the ethnic root of the Pinoy. “Filipino cuisine is the sum of all parts - colonial, islands and Malay. [Our food is] not fully Asian yet enriched with the flavors of Spain, Mexico, America, Japan, China, a bit of French, etc. As Nick Joaquin [National Artist for Literature] wrote: Our cuisine is ‘Cajun.’ Read: Mestizo. How unique can we get!?” As an introduction to the Filipino food culture, Reyes-Lumen recommends foreigners to try adobo. “[Adobo] travels well. It is popular. The tourists may have heard of the word. It has many versions each to fit a preference.” Other must-tries are sinigang, which is the best medium for fresh prawns, fish, fish head, and vegetables; chicken inasal, bangus ala pobre, chicken barbecue, grilled tuna, pancit luglog and lumpiang Shanghai. “I learned from [Philippine culinary legend] Nora Daza that Europeans like the taste of paksiw!” First-timers to the Philippines are encouraged to join a food tour. The most popular destinations in Luzon are Pampanga, Bulacan, Laguna and Ilocos. “Every region has a different special recipe for guests,” says Reyes-Lumen. Visiting the islands offers tourists a taste of coconut milk dishes and fresh seafood. Asked what is the best way to enjoy Filipino? “Dine with company. For a fun element, eat with your hands as your wet feet get massaged by gurgling water on a lake!”

“FILIPINO CUISINE [IS] A RICH, FLAVORFUL MIX OF EAST-WEST INFLUENCES INTERWOVEN WITH THE FRESH SEAFOOD AND COCONUTS OF THE ISLANDS.”

Sisig is a popular dish from Pampanga.

ADOBO QUEEN Nancy Reyes-Lumen is a selfproclaimed “Adobo Queen.” She is co-author of bestselling books like The Adobo Book, The Malunggay Book, Make Good Money with Malunggay and the ALBA Book. All books have won local and international awards. She belongs to the Reyes clan of Aristocrat, one of the most popular restaurants (and one of the oldest existing) in the Philippines. A branch of the Reyes clan is in the production of worldwide known Filipino sauces: Mama Sita brand. She is also a freelance TV cooking show host/ culinary trivia provider for radio. Read more about the Philippine food expert through her blog, www. pinoyfoodies.com.

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DIPLOMATS

Beyond the call of duty

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hilippine Ambassador to Italy Virgilio Reyes is also the country’s official representative to San Marino, Albania and Malta. He is a polyglot and a lover of the arts and culture. Reyes is retiring in September from his long and extensive career in public service. His journey as a Philippine envoy has taken him from the Americas to Africa and now, Europe.

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How did you get into public service? My road to public service was an accidental one, perhaps unconsciously inspired by my father. But it is nonetheless one that I have never regretted and has been a source of deep satisfaction for me. My father Virgilio Reyes Sr. was Press Secretary to President Diosdado Macapagal and he also served as Minister Counsellor at the Philippine Mission to the United Nations in New York. As a student, I had not actually thought of public service as a career. I thought of becoming an academic or entering the private sector. However, further studies brought me to different countries in Europe and eventually in the Diplomatic Academy in Vienna,

Austria. My love for languages and travel as well as the possibility of serving my country brought me to the path of public service. How would you describe your post in Rome in terms of bilateral and consular terms? Italy is a very important post for the Philippines since it has the largest number of Filipino nations in the Eurozone, an estimated 190,000. Service to our nationals is of paramount importance. Equally important are developing and maintaining optimal relations with our host country as well as serving as permanent representative to international organizations in Italy. Balancing all these is a great


challenge which the staff of the Philippine Embassy and I have duly and appropriately responded. Among many others, we are conducting mobile passport services and consular missions nationwide at least once in two months. In the Embassy, no appointment is needed for processing of documents and assistance to Filipino nationals. In addition to community outreach programs, we also have OFW empowerment projects particularly in language learning, financial and computer literacy, social entrepreneurship and other skillenhancement programmes. We also conduct weekly forums to discuss matters concerning other government agencies like POLO, OWWA as well as Italian laws related to OFWs. In bilateral relations, we focus on economic, political, social and cultural diplomacy. We carry out the mandate for representation to important bodies like the Food Agricultural Organization, World Food Programme, International Centre for Preservation of Agricultural Development, and similar organizations. Our work also focuses on climate change and support for the agricultural sector. We have hosted agri-business forums to encourage our people to invest in agribusiness in Rome, Milan and Turin with the presence of Philippine Agriculture Secretary Proceso Alcala and Labor Secretary Rosalinda Dimapilis-Baldoz. During my term, we have held Filipino food festivals in Rome and Reggio Calabria, film festivals in Rome and Cagliari and issued a commemorative stamp together with the Philippine Postal Office to celebrate the 65 years of diplomatic relations between Italy and the Philippines. In September, the Philippine Embassy hosted the groundbreaking Diaspora-to-Dialogue meeting in Rome, resulting to the foundation of the European Network for Filipinos in Diaspora (EnFid). Through the cooperation between EnFid, the Philippine Embassy and private individuals and organisations, we hosted Fibre Filippine, a four-day event that introduced Philippine natural fibers and high fashion to Italians. An Italian media outfit remarked that Italians never realized the great style and potential of the Philippines. We have also sponsored an Italian business delegation to the Philippines

Reyes meeting Pope Francis at the Vatican.

“MY ROAD TO PUBLIC SERVICE WAS AN ACCIDENTAL ONE, PERHAPS UNCONSCIOUSLY INSPIRED BY MY FATHER. BUT IT IS NONETHELESS ONE THAT I HAVE NEVER REGRETTED AND HAS BEEN A SOURCE OF DEEP SATISFACTION FOR ME.” in 2013 which resulted in further exchanges concerning trade, investment and education between the two countries. What do you think are the traits of a good Ambassador? I believe that love of country, dedication, hard work and a strong sense of integrity and honesty are very important factors. In the case of foreign service, one should strive to know the country where he is posted well in order to be a better bridge between the Philippines and the host country. One should learn the language of that country. He or she cannot afford the luxury of being lazy or self-indulgent. For instance, I would never think of spending time in any

country without knowing and possibly mastering the language which is a vital clue for the culture of a country. For an envoy, understanding one’s adopted home begins with that first vital step. Becoming an Ambassador is not something one can learn overnight. It takes years of seasoning and preparation. How do you handle criticism? That comes with the territory. Nobody is perfect so we have different venues and forums to address these. In fact, we are instructed by our home office to receive both observations and complaints and to address them immediately and that is what we try to do. We do what we can but we can’t please everybody. That is also a rule in life. How do you like to be remembered as an Ambassador? I would like to be remembered in fairness to the achievements that the Embassy and our own staff have done in the past three years. I think we have tried above all to improve our service to Filipino communities not only here in Rome but also in other parts of Italy. For whatever good we have done, we would like that to be acknowledged and if ever we had shortcomings, I apologize for them. But I hope that it’s fairness that rules in the long run.

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GIVING BACK

TEACHING MEN HOW TO FISH by Dheza Marie Aguilar

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life-changing event led a British guy to the path of philanthropy in the Philippines. In 2010, Ian Campbell lost everything, including his house, when his business went bankrupt. He was also diagnosed with cancer. He thought his life was over. But instead of feeling sorry for himself, the 64-year-old thought of making a difference in the lives of other people. Campbell had been to the Philippines. He also came to know a lot of Filipinos in the United Kingdom. Armed with his knowledge of the country, he decided to build an orphanage in Balayan, Batangas under TEN Foundations. There he met Joy Ganadin, who manages the orphanage. The TEN Foundations shelter livelihood centre provides a home and a small school to nine children. They offer scholarships for many others as well. Their feeding program helps more than 400 malnourished and hungry children in Batangas. More than 30 individuals including mothers benefit from their livelihood programmes which cover skill development trainings like sewing, soap making and meat processing. TEN Foundations also gives medical assistance, if not immediate help, to typhoon victims. “We believe in the proverb, ’Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day; show him how to catch fish, and you feed him for a lifetime.’ We think of sustainability. If we only prepare food for them, it is very exhausting and draining to our energy and resources. But on this initiative we can generate income for them and for other TF

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TEN Foundations sells bags and other Philippine products in their cafe and gift shop in Belfast, Ireland. programmes. We are also helping mothers who are not employable due to illiteracy and lack of skills,” says Campbell. To reach a wider market for the products made in the livelihood centres, TEN Foundations opened a café and gift shop in Belfast, Ireland last June. Here, they sell bags and other Philippine products made from recycled and environment-friendly materials like tetra packs, crisp packs, rice, straws, etc. “Our shop in Belfast is already making a difference to us. We now have over 30 mothers making these bags and it’s probably the most important thing we do. Just one year ago these mothers were living in complete poverty –no money, no education and no hope. Today they are earning up to P10,000 a month. It is all about giving them the ability to change their own lives,” shares Campbell.

Campbell hopes they can build 10 more livelihood centres all over the Philippines. These projects, he says, have a very positive effect on the communities that they are helping. “We are trying to raise P1 million to buy one hectare of land so we can build soon our own shelter, livelihood centre, and alternative learning area,” he says. TEN Foundations is organizing a fundraising event from Belfast to Dublin this July using the pedicab, a traditional Filipino transport system. They are inviting all Filipinos in these cities to join and promote the event. To know more about TEN Foundations, visit http://www.tenfoundations.org/ or see photos of their education and livelihood projects on their Facebook page www. facebook.com/tenfoundations.


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IN THE NEXT ISSUE: For our next issue, The Filipino Expat Magazine focuses on learning from Europe’s revered academic institutions. Accessories designer Marjorie Renner tells us how she started from living the glamorous model life in Paris to launching her own line of luxury bags. We are also featuring the story of Jomel Anthony Gutierrez, a former student in London who decided to come home and work in the Philippine government instead of a more lucrative job in the United Kingdom. While Chris Cruz shares with us how a Filipino student survives being a scholar in Paris. We will be listing down scholarship programmes or where to get financial assistance for those who want to study in Europe. Plus, a road trip to Germany’s Black Forest, popular hangouts in Metro Manila and how to start your own manpower agency.

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