Transition issue #16 by The Forumist

The

Forumist

issue 16

Transition

TÄNK STORT. TÄNK MINI. Vi älskar dig som vågar tänka stort – som vågar gå din egen väg och utmana det skrivna. En MINI kan vara betydligt större än vad man tror. Förutom att vår plug-in hybrid rymmer fem vuxna levererar den en härlig körupplevelse, en förmånlig bränsleekonomi och har 224 hk, ALL4 fyrhjulsdrift, automat och navigation som standard. Och med mer plats kan du släppa på begränsningarna för att ge dig ut och upptäcka livet med MINI.

#LifeWithMINI

Transition Issue 16 Autumn. A new beginning. A chance to make a fresh start, to reach the goals we’ve set for ourselves. Having put the sundrenched and pleasure-filled months of summer behind us, we can finally focus on what truly matters: becoming the best version of ourselves. With worrying forces at play, such as environmental issues and political radicalism, it’s time to think about our own role in the global puzzle. Only then can we step up and take the kind of action needed to alter the course of the world for the better. Good news: it’s not too late. For just like the writer F Scott Fitzgerald said, “Life starts all over again when it gets crisp in the fall.” This season’s arrival does offer a unique opportunity to contemplate the course of our own lives, our habits, values and beliefs. Entering this kind of contemplative state, we often realise the misdirection of our energy, and the vanity of our tastes, and with it comes an eagerness for change. We don’t need new year’s resolutions to embrace the full spectrum of opportunities for improvement that’s out there — it’s there for the taking, if we only have the eyes to see it. So let the pages of this issue inspire you to initiate your own transition. The time for change is now. COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: Lauretta Suter . Styling and art direction by Mari David. Hair: Christos Vourlis at Calliste. Make-up: Fanny Renaud. Model: Laci Spicer at Next  Jacket by Ellery, Shirt by Yazbukey, Leggings stylist’s own

New York Editors Editor-in-Chief Pejman Biroun Vand (Stockholm) Karolina Brock Angel Macias Creative Direction Online Editor See Studio (London) Melinda Urbansdotter (Stockholm) Fashion Co-ordinator Emma Thorstrand (Stockholm) Music Editor Amanda Båmstedt Beauty Editor (Göteborg) Céline Exbrayat (Paris) Paris Editor Sophie Faucillion

Art Editor Ted Hammerin (Tallinn)

Berlin Editors Veronika Dorosheva Ole Siebrecht

Web Development Manager Gustav Bagge (Stockholm)

Marketing and production assistant Petter Bladlund (Stockholm) Contributing Fashion Editors Karolina Brock (New York) Mari David (Paris) Veronika Dorosheva (Berlin) Julie Nivert (Paris) Natalie Olenheim (Stockholm) Koji Oyamada (Tokyo) Emma Thorstrand (Stockholm)

Tom Kleinschmidt (Berlin) Johan Nilsson (Stockholm) Sunny Ringle (Paris) John Scarisbrick (Stockholm) Dan Sjölund (Stockholm) Lauretta Suter (Paris) Printing MittMedia

© 2018. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in the magazine are those of the contributors and not necessarily shared by the magazine

The Forumist AB Sveavägen 98 113 50 Stockholm SWEDEN info@theforumist.com theforumist.com facebook.com/theforumist instagram.com/theforumist

Advertising ad@theforumist.com

Contributing Photographers Cesar Love Alexandre (New York) Motohiko Hasui (Tokyo) Andreas Karlsson (Stockholm) 03

Pretty in Pink

See the world through rose-coloured spectacles and everything you touch will appear as though in full bloom Photography by Sunny Ringle Make-up by Céline Exbrayat using MAC Styling by Julie Nivert Hair by Sayaka Otama this page: Mineralize Moisture SPF15 Foundation in NC30, Eye Shadow in Cranberry, and Powder Blush in Peaches by MAC Top and dress by Maison Margiela, Earring by Justine Clenquet opposite page: Chromacake in Pure White, Prep + Prime Fix, and Lustre Lipstick in Plumful by MAC Shirt by Neith Nyer, Earring by Justine Clenquet

this page, clockwise from TOP: Lightful C + Coral Grass Tinted Cream SPF30, Mineralize Moisture SPF15 Foundation in NC30, Eye Shadow in Cranberry, and Powder Blush in Peaches by MAC. Trousers (worn as top) by Aalto, T-shirt by Jeanerica, Tights by Falke Mineralize Moisture SPF15 Foundation in NC30, Clear Gloss, In Extreme Dimension 3D Black Lash Mascara, and Glitter in Cerulean and Turquoise by MAC. Earring by Justine Clenquet Acrylic Paint in Landscape Green and Pure White by MAC. Cape by Arthur Avellano Pigment in Kitschmas and Chartreuse by MAC. Top by Maison Margiela, Earring by Justine Clenquet opposite page: Lightful C + Coral Grass Moisture Cream, Studio Fix Fluid SPF15 Foundation in C4, and Acrylic Paint in Process Magenta and Pure White by MAC. Sweater and trousers by Baserange, Sweater (around neck) by Tibi, Sweater (around arm and waist) by Nanushka, Sweater (around waist) by Vince, Earring by Justine Clenquet Model: Veronika Tonkha at Girls

Morning

glory Getting ready for the day ahead shouldn’t mean just going through the motions. Who you become matters Photography by Lauretta Suter  Styling and art direction by Mari David

OPPOSITE PAGE: Dress by Kenzo

this page, from top: Dress by Kenzo Suit by Ellery, Sweater by Acne Studios opposite page: Jacket by Ellery, Shirt by Yazbukey, Leggings stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

this page, clockwise from top left: Shirt by Acne Studios Dress by Acne Studios, Tights stylist’s own, Shoes by Lacoste Suit by Rochas, Shoes by Martinez Sweater, shirt and trousers by Lacoste, Bag by Zoobeetle, Shoes by Ellery  opposite page: Dress by Guy Laroche Hair: Christos Vourlis at Calliste  Make-up: Fanny Renaud Model: Laci Spicer at Next  Fashion assistant: Benoît Paquet  Production: Cinq Étoiles, Paris  Special thanks to: Chloé and Julien

What’s the Alternative? Beyond the mainstream, beneath the surface and maybe outside the norm, Yony Leyser is fascinated by being different, by embracing nonconformance. His movies deal with punk, self-discovery, hedonism, love and resistance — and the feeling of being against something

And what was it like acting and directing at the same time? “It was super-difficult. I am really happy that I did it and I think it made sense for Desire, but I don’t think I would do it again.”

Yony Leyser grew up in Chicago, where he studied writing, film-making and the dramatic arts, going on to start his career as a director at an early age. At 24 he finished his first feature-length film, William S Burroughs: A Man Within, which included appearances from icons such as Iggy Pop and Thurston Moore of Sonic Youth. In 2010, Leyser moved to Berlin and dedicated his next movie, Desire Will Set You Free (2015), to the ever-changing, vibrant German metropolis. Leyser believes Berlin has changed since he first got there – and that it has also changed him. The Forumist met up with him to find out what he thinks about transition and change, and why he believes hedonism is important to finding yourself.

Desire Will Set You Free deals a lot with hedonism, sexuality and self-discovery, topics you won’t find in many mainstream movies. Why do you think they’re still taboo/niche topics? And how would you like to change that? “With films, funding usually goes to ideas that are safer, those that are considered safe investments. The really wild people with hot ideas rarely jive with the funding and production elements of making movies, but people are interested in seeing those things. I am so lucky to have my films supported by German film funds and I hope they will continue to take more risks with films covering these topics and include more minority voices.”

How did Berlin change you? “I first visited Berlin in 2007 during a university programme. I went out to explore squats, queer parties, housing collectives, demonstrations, vegan restaurants, bike shops, parks and cruising zones. I was in heaven and somehow managed to complete my course at the same time. I fell in love with the queer scene here, with the public space, with the ability to meet diverse groups of people, often with non-conformist views and a desire to defy. I moved here permanently in 2010. The city has changed a lot since I first arrived, and so have I. I became a much more comfortable person here, which was due in part to being able to be around people like me, in a queer community, with support from my friends, with basic human rights that the United States deny, like health insurance, public transportation, bike lanes and the ability to survive and thrive. My last two films were heavily influenced by the city of Berlin. Now that I am in my thirties, my priorities have changed and I have entered a new dimension professionally, which is more difficult here, but I’m getting there.”

Do you think our society can be too prudish sometimes? “Definitely. I guess it’s because people are scared, but I think Berlin is one of the least-prudish cities that I have ever been to.” What are you hoping to change in people’s minds with your work? “I don’t know if I want to change people’s minds. Rather, I strive to portray under-represented communities and to creatively document interesting moments in recent history.”

Desire Will Set You Free feels like an homage to Berlin. What fascinates you about this city? “The city of Berlin is the main character in the film. Berlin is a city of death and disparity, of rediscovery and rebirth, a city for the queer and demimonde, for the outsider and foreigner. I hope that identity remains. In Desire Will Set You Free we were trying to preserve this identity. Together with my producer Paula Alamillo, we set out to document all our friends and various nightlife icons, and the venues where we used to hang out before they disappeared. We wanted to pay back the city for all it did for us. The film was largely improvised and everyone played themselves. It features the who’s who of Berlin and I hope it will serve as a time capsule or yearbook of the 2010s.”

How would you personally describe hedonism? “I guess it’s the pursuit of pleasure and the here and now.” Do you think it’s important to find yourself, to satisfy your desires? “Learning and self-learning are important lifelong endeavours. We all adapt, grow, develop and change. Our goals, friend circles, lifestyles, 14

What fascinates you about punk in general? “I guess it’s about rejecting the status quo, capitalism, forming communities of people with similar views by going to punk and rock shows. Growing up in America in the 1990s, I just saw consumerism as the main religion and talking point, so punk became a very attractive alternative.” You chose to play Ezra, the main part in Desire Will Set You Free, yourself. How much of Yony was in this character? “Ezra was a mix of me and some friends of mine at that time. I chose to play the character because everyone else was playing themselves and there was so much improvisation that playing that role became a way of controlling the scenes from the inside.”

Words by Ole Siebrecht Photography by Tom Kleinschmidt Styling by Veronika Dorosheva

Your movies deal with topics such as hedonism, punk and queerness. What and who inspires your work? “Some people who inspire me are John Waters, James Baldwin, J Halberstam, Gregg Araki, Ulrike Ottinger, JT LeRoy and David Wojnarowicz.”

political climate. Although I don’t really consider myself punk any more, I still appreciate punk.”

How would you define the meaning of transition? “Many people strive to achieve constants throughout their lives and aim for stability and sameness, but life is always in transition and I think that embracing change and our journey is key to attaining happiness and unlocking creativity. For me, being an artist and being queer imply embracing a life in transition, and our work can reflect on those transitions and shed light on elements of society that many people ignore.” @yonilizer

political views, partners, sexual desires and self-views change as we gather experiences and grow older. I think it’s very important to explore our desires and the desires of others to move forward and to avoid suppressing feelings and emotions, which could become very detrimental.” During your twenties, you went to punk shows on a regular basis. Was this a support system for you? “Yeah, I used to love punk. It was a very fun community to be a part of. It’s a deviant way of being subversive and I think that’s important in today’s

centre, from top: yony wears Shirt by Joseph, Sunglasses by Ace & Tate; hyenaz wear Harnesses by Mad Kate and EXIT; film stills from desire will set you free above: yony wears Top, shirt, trousers and shoes by Hermès, Glasses by Ace & Tate far left: film still from desire will set you free

Jacket and shoes yony’s own, Top and trousers by Pringle of Scotland, Glasses by Ace & Tate Make-up: HYENAZ Talent: Yony Leyser and HYENAZ Production: Veronika Dorosheva Special thanks to: Karin Kruse, Ringo Kaufhold, Antonia at Hermès, Soma and Phoebe at Fake PR, and Aisha at Agency V

Moving

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be defined by a uniform. Ring the changes with athleisure staples, graphic prints and playful pieces Photography by Motohiko Hasui Styling by Koji Oyamada OPPOSITE PAGE: Top and tracksuit trousers by NEON SIGN

this page, clockwise from top: Shirt by FACETASM, Shawl by NEON SIGN, Arm knit by RAF SIMONS bodysuit by GVGV, Baseball boots by CONVERSE Mei wears camisole by NEON SIGN, Shirt by DOUBLET, Rorurari wears sweater by DOUBLET, Hold-ups by FACETASM opposite page, from top: Tops by JW ANDERSON Dress by FACETASM

this page, above from left: Jacket and skirt by GVGV Playsuit by FACETASM, Shoes stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own opposite page: tops by NEON SIGN Hair: Ritsu Make-up: Mariko Suzuki Talent: Rorurari, Mei, Satsuki and Mei

How Soon Is Now? The Swedish music scene never stays still. Meet two of the faces currently changing the soundscape with their honest and compelling artistry

Words by AMANDA BÅMSTEDT Photography by DAN SJÖLUND Styling by PEJMAN BIROUN VAND Special thanks to WHYRED

This page, clockwise from top: trouve paisley jacket; showpiece shirt and shoes, and ruth heavy stone jeans; showpiece jacket, jeans and shoes; trouve paisley jacket, babette lux trousers and paul shoes Opposite page: francoise jumpsuit and showpiece shoes All by whyred

Amanda Winberg /AMWIN Amanda Winberg, aka AMWIN, is genuine and filled with energy. She contributes to the music scene with something fresh, new and powerful. This past summer, she did some live shows, something that has clearly got her buzzing: “I’ve been kind of on the low for a little while, as I’ve been focusing on developing my music and sound, so it was great to go out and meet the audience again!” Winberg’s voice is clear and filled with poise: when she sings, you listen. She is daring in her lyrics and unapologetic about who she is – just take a listen to her debut single, Uber, or Living Mistake, released earlier this year. She describes the music as “a mix of all things I love – and sometimes don’t love. As I release more of it, it’s going to become even more clear who AMWIN is.” Her artistry has grown over the years and is still evolving, taking on new shapes and expressions. “I’m still growing as I’m getting to know myself and what I like even better,” she says. “I meet new people and learn new things every day, both in music and in life. It’s my goal to keep learning and growing, but I don’t think I’ll ever change.” When it comes to fashion, Winberg reveals she is “obsessed” with FKA twigs – both her style and her artistic expression. Winberg feels the same need to express herself, to communicate and create. “To me, fashion is a tool for doing that. My style changes a lot, depending on the mood I’m in when I wake up. I’ve always been like that,” she admits. “I could show up at school as a punk girl one day, and in a preppy look the next. Fashion helps me connect and express all my different sides.” Clearly, fashion and clothes work like an extension of her personality and mind, and she is a firm fan of Whyred’s edgy clothes. Their combination of being daring, stylish and wearable is something that suits her well. “I actually first fell in love with the brand for real a year ago, when I found this beautiful mintgreen suit with puff arms and oversized pants,” she says. “It’s the perfect oversized suit – I love to wear things oversize – with the perfect mix of cute and bold, two of my favourite things.” It’s clear that the visual aspects of life are important to her: she is a visual person who sees by hearing. “I sometimes live more in my head than in the real world. So when I hear a song I immediately start thinking things like, ‘What does this song look like?’ To me, one of the most intriguing parts of working with music is making a song come alive,” she says. Of the process, she is a 100% involved, not just in the

visual side of things – it goes for every part of her artistry. “I enjoy creating – it makes me calm and stimulated. I love seeing visions come alive, even though, like most creators, I always find at least a hundred things I want to improve.” To challenge everything that is comfortable and neat is something that is important to her in order to evolve, even the seemingly small things. “It’s easy to set up rules for who you are and what you’re capable of, which are rarely true,” she says. “It’s important to challenge yourself with little things in your everyday life, or just change a routine you’ve gotten stuck in. I also think you just need to stop sometimes and take in your surroundings as well. I find myself sometimes stuck in my own mind, with my own thoughts, and when that happens I find the people around me to be a huge source of inspiration in a lot of different ways.” Fortunately, there’s more to come from AMWIN soon – her new single is due out in October. Make sure to keep your eyes and ears open.

Mapei In 2013, Mapei made the world fall in love with her with Don’t Wait, her single that became an instant hit. Now she’s back to make us fall in love with her stunning voice and sound all over again. She recently moved back to Sweden from Los Angeles, although she has always seen the world as her home – “like a true global citizen”. Right now, Sweden is the place where she works best. “Plus it’s where most of my friends are,” she says. “It started with me doing one gig here two years ago and ended up with me staying. You never know where I will end up. As with most immigrants who come to Sweden and work hard, their dream is to build a house and go back to their motherland. My dream is to reside by the beach in Monrovia, Liberia, or somewhere, and open a small juice bar of some sort. I think I was built to chill and do art in some remote place, in order for me to come back to metropolitan areas and put my canvases on display, whether that be of art, music or theatre. Sweden is a place that uplifts artists without them having to live by a standard of not eating or sleeping.” Living in cities all around the globe and the experience of meeting people going the distance with their thing has taught her a lot and influenced her sound and creativity. “Living in New York from the age of 18 taught me a lot about life. Watching artists on television from afar in Sweden left me in the dark about how the industry really works. It really is an industry, and when you conform to that, your art will be a product. I met artists doing their own thing, and that made me believe I could, too. I think I brought a sense of independence to the table in Sweden. I’m definitely an explorer when it comes to music. A heavy bass never hurts, though. I grew up hearing music like Stevie V or Latin freestyle blasting out of cars, only to find myself in Stockholm, in a very melancholic setting, so I would say I am a mix of that.” Being an artist has many sides to it – it offers the opportunity to express yourself but also demands a lot of hard work. And being a musician and artist is something that has changed over the years, Mapei

feels. “Not only are you a artist nowadays, you are a model and an influencer, with the gab of a mayor,” she says, laughing. “Jokes aside, it takes balls to say you’re an artist and do what you love at the same time as keeping business afloat. It is such an abstract field that has existed for decades and there really is no blueprint.” Mapei’s voice is powerful, timeless and warm, with that certain old-school glamour that is hard to pinpoint. It was when she noticed that she could hit the “Mariah Carey note” that she knew she could sing. “That’s when I was like, ‘Mom, I wanna be a star.’ Throughout the years I have learnt that being a star is not everything. It is the creativity that counts, and luckily I am gifted with writing songs, visual art, and so on. I am still learning, though… ” Over the years, her sound has changed and gotten closer to her aesthetic. By creating pictures in her music of feelings and things she has absorbed seems to work as an outlet for her. “Music is like the love partner I cannot leave. It always calls on me, so I have accepted it’s love and I nourish it and make sure it reflects me,” she says. Whyred has been a favourite of Mapei for some time now and, besides being in love with the name, she thinks their clothes and design are always on point. “Whyred is a legendary brand,” she says, although fashion is something that comes and goes in her life. “But there is no escaping the fact that everything is fashionable in or out of its context, which means anything can be fashionable. If we see a runway with naked people, nude will be the way to go. I hope… ” Mapei says, demonstrating her seemingly uncomplicated relationship with clothes. Later this autumn, you’ll find Mapei on stage in both Copenhagen and Stockholm. While currently in the phase of working with new material, it’s hard for her to choose between the studio and being on stage. “The road is an external adventure and the studio is an internal one. I can’t choose between the two. I love sharing, so touring is the best way to do that.” Her new single will be released soon, so get ready to welcome home one of Stockholm’s coolest voices.

This page, clockwise from top: Vincent jacket, showpiece t-shirt and margaux hat; showpiece jacket and Karolina cherrie shirt; showpiece jacket, trousers and shoes, and Karolina cherrie shirt; showpiece dress Opposite page: mills bd paisley shirt, Jeanne trousers, göthberg shoes and elroy hat All by whyred hair and make-up: Lillis Hemmingsson

Reality in motion Words by Petter Bladlund Photography by John Scarisbrick Styling by Pejman Biroun Vand Special thanks to MINI

The 1950s didn’t just give birth to celebrated pop stars, fashion icons, dashing mods and exciting new movie stars. It was also when MINI arrived on the scene, the automotive design icon that, from its inception, brought these cultural elements together and shifted from being a car into something much more. The latest part of this transition? An electric car and a fling with the Swedish fashion powerhouse Whyred

At the end of the 1950s, the sleek, pioneering design of the MINI quickly elevated the car’s status from convenient runaround to unmistakable style icon, heralded as much for its beautiful lines as its powerful engine and innovative suspension system. Created as a response to the fuel shortage of the postwar world, the MINI was the original manifestation of the company’s spirit and desire to generate ground-breaking solutions to global concerns. Drivers were blown away by this small power package of a car and the unique go-cart-like experience it offered. As a symbol of style and ingenuity, the MINI soon came to influence and be adored by some of the greatest actors, film-makers, musicians and fashion faces of the time that followed, including Paul and Linda McCartney and Peter Sellers. It regularly appeared in fashion shoots, and unquestionably occupied a key part of the cultural limelight from the start – and design and style have never stopped being essential parts of its world. MINI has certainly come a long way since these exciting early days, all the while staying true its creative and stylish heritage, and constantly striving to stay in the driver’s seat of its own transition. One of the most exciting parts of the company’s evolution is MINI’s first electric car: the Countryman Plug-In Hybrid. Paying homage to the original pioneering MINI design, but with an added “electrified” performance, the Plug-In Hybrid offers the same thrilling go-cart feel that got fans raving nearly 60 years ago. As MINI’s latest creative solution, this time to the modernday problems of congestion and emissions, the Plug-In Hybrid stands out as a beacon of hope. It’s as beautiful and environmentally friendly as it’s fun to drive; it’s a car that’s that feels both refreshingly new and assuredly familiar at the same time. Although bigger than the original MINI and adapted to the various demands of the modern world, the Plug-In Hybrid still embodies the iconic design that has been in MINI’s DNA for decades. Another stylish creator that looks to the inspirational heritage of the pop stars, fashion icons and mods of that time is the renowned Swedish fashion brand Whyred. Founded in the late 1990s, the label has always dared to think differently and to question the status quo, building up its own style legacy in the process. Whyred’s autumn collection, entitled Darkroom, is inspired by Paul McCartney’s song of the same name. The

collection embraces the same dramatic colours, adventurous silhouettes and eye-catching patterns that were all part of the inspirational environment during the era MINI came to life. Darkroom is a symbol of that place between light and dark where we search for our own creativity, a place that engenders opportunities for transition, change and betterment. Entering his own creative darkroom, with no intention of releasing the song originally, McCartney created a musical gem that epitomised his creative and progressive spirit, from which Whyred has drawn a great deal of inspiration for its new collection. And the essence of the looks matches MINI’s own spirit of innovation that has been there since the early days, when Paul and Linda would be spotted driving around in their own MINI. So, as part of the ongoing transition that MINI is constantly pursuing by widening its horizons and stylistic inspiration, The Forumist has brought together the keen eye for covetable design and style that both brands possess, establishing a never-seen-before connection. The combination of MINI’s Countryman Plug-In Hybrid, a model that echoes the original MINI design, and Whyred’s Darkroom collection, inspired by icons of the same era, is both fresh and strikingly natural at the same time. And this is only the beginning of the latest journey. Even though we can’t say what creative solutions and design-savvy innovations MINI will come up with in the future, one thing is for sure: it will continue to drive towards the boundless opportunities that lie ahead – and do so with as much panache and expertise as it has always done. So here’s our teaser: the sleek and iconic design of MINI’s Countryman Plug-In Hybrid teamed with the striking designs from Whyred’s Darkroom collection — a match made in style heaven!

opposite page: Adele coat, Karolina cherrie shirt, ruth trousers and justina shoes by WhyreD

This page, from top: FRIDA wears elza jacket and yasis top; jean-jacques wears noren jacket and mills bd memento flower shirt; royale short print top Opposite page: frida wears elza jacket, yasis top, babette clean trousers and justina shoes, jean-jacques wears noren jacket, mills bd memento flower shirt and showpiece trousers and shoes All by whyred

This page, from top: trouve paisley jacket, showpiece shirt and babette lux trousers; mills bd paisley shirt, ian cord trousers and showpiece shoes Opposite page: Rudy soft peak check jacket, mills flannel small check shirt, john check trousers and showpiece shoes All by whyred Hair and Make-Up: Lillis Hemmingsson Models: Jean-Jacques O and Frida W at Stockholmsgruppen photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Petter Bladlund stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Assistant: Melinda C Urbansdotter Post-production: Omnilux

Words by AMANDA BÅMSTEDT Photography by JOHAN NILSSON Styling by NATALIE OLENHEIM Special thanks to LEVI’S The connectedness of today’s world has allowed us to travel from one part of the globe to another, from country to country, continent to continent, in a matter of hours. In this environment, where distances fade and boundaries blur, many of us have been able to bring home the richness of the cultural influences and inspirations we’ve experienced along the way. And for generations, various wanderers of the world have been settling in Sweden. Coming from various backgrounds and carrying with them an abundance of cultural influences and references, they have brought with them the elements that make Sweden the multifaceted and bustling place it is today. And this continuous transition has changed the country from the blonde, homogeneous stereotype into something much more. All this is present in the latest Made & Crafted collection by Levi’s. Entitled The Nomadic Life and out for autumn, it pays homage to these multicultural wanderers and celebrates the many influences found in Sweden today. So, to mark its release and the cultural transition the country has been undergoing, The Forumist met up with the people currently carrying the torch in their respective fields. Whether it’s by making music, creating unique designs or influencing how we treat others, these individuals represent the core of the perpetually evolving country that Sweden is today. You no longer have to travel to another country or continent to experience the full depth of cultural diversity that the world has to offer – it’s right here, among us.

Danno Tharmarajah, DJ It was Danno Tharmarajah’s excellent taste in music that initiated her career as a DJ. She borrowed a friend’s controller and, since then, DJing has been the love of her life. For her, the best part of her life is being surrounded by creative people. “They inspire me. Watching them doing their work keeps me motivated. Also, I’m Tamil, so my mum makes the best food!” she says, smiling. Looking at her online activity it’s quickly evident that she engages in breaking boundaries and norms, being a true inspiration for others herself. “I’m a queer POC [person of colour], so it’s impossible for me to not engage in activism. These days, being a brown woman in Sweden is scary as hell. With racism being normalised in politics, it directly affects society. Everything is messed up. We have to fight the racists by showing the Swedish government we are angry. We have to organise and demonstrate. We have to fight for our trans sisters and brothers, for our disabled sisters and brothers, for our sisters and brothers of colour. White people have to use their privilege and be the best ally they can be.” Tharmarajah faces the challenges of today’s society fuelled by love and acceptance.

Ilkham Batrudinov Music producer

Creating new beats for various genres and artists while working as a music producer by day and DJing at night, Ilkham Batrudinov makes sure that the dance floors and bars get the soundtrack they deserve. “When I set my mind to something, I’m very determined,” says Batrudinov. He’s dedicating all his spare time to creating music, work that is paying off since he’s taking big steps in achieving his dreams. “My goal is to be able to make an impact in the music industry and to get recognised as an artist and music producer.” We’ll undoubtedly be hearing a lot more of those beats soon.

A World Without Borders

As Levi’s launches its latest Made & Crafted collection, highlighting the curious minds and culturally anchored influences making the difference in today’s ever-changing environment, we gather some of the young creatives disrupting the predictable and driving the changes to find out where we’re going from here

opposite page: Danno wEARS Crop Sherpa trucker jacket and Hombre Mist Tunic by levi’s this page: Ilkham WEARS Love Letter Trucker jacket and Boy Tee T-Shirt by levi’s

29 01

this page: FANNY wears Native Trucker Jacket and Barrel Jeans by levi’s opposite page: LEFT, BERI WEARS Boyfriend Trucker jacket, Pop Over Sweatshirt, 501 Original Jeans (around waist) and Stem Flare Jeans by levi’s. below, BEHIN WEARS High standard shirt, boyfriend Trucker Jacket (around waist) and Passenger jeans by levi’s

Beri Gerwise

Musician and rapper Music has always served as an escape for Beri Gerwise. Concerned that it might sound clichéd, she stresses it’s nevertheless true. “I think everyone has their own escapes and solutions to their past and present. I became my own therapist by writing down whatever I was feeling, no matter how dark it was, and I just sat there and had to face it,” she says. Growing up, she was considered someone who wouldn’t live within the standards set by society and came out three times to her relatives. She didn’t know any other way of existing than just being who she is. “I think it is the most scary, strengthening and beautiful thing. Most of all, I think being gay has led to me understanding that norms are just boxes made to separate people from each other, and make us think we’re different when we’re not,” she says. Gerwise is proof that wisdom doesn’t need to come with age.

Fanny Amelita

Behin Roozbeh

A true creative, Fanny Amelita not only works as a media manager at a clothing brand but also writes music and sings, something she wants to do more of in the future. “I enjoy working with things where creative minds can meet and create together. I’m also very engaged in how society deals with mental illness, as well as women’s and black people’s rights,” she says of some of the things she is passionate about. Amelita gets her energy and inspiration from engaging with others. “I feel powerful when I’m with people who respect others as humans, and when we are working together. I feel powerful when we talk about the future and life the way we want it. Then I feel blessed, hopeful and not alone.” For Amelita, strength and energy will always be found in togetherness and friendship.

Comparing herself to a star, Behin Roozbeh says: “But I’m the kind you glue to the ceiling and that glows in the dark, but needs to be charged with electrical light for a week to be able to do so.” She currently works as a graphic designer, a profession that came gradually. “I got admitted to a preparatory art school because of my drawings. I guess spending many years copying Sailor Moon comics and drawing my friends really trained my eye.” Now she has six years of artistic education behind her and has just finished a master’s in visual communication on the norm creative programme at Konstfack. “The programme is unique, sharp and filled with the most inspiring people. It shaped me as a designer,” says Roozbeh. Hers is a curious mind, on a never-ending quest to explore visual communication.

Social-media manager

Graphic designer

Anfa Lashari Rapper

Anfa Lashari is one half of the rap duo Lash, which has been taking Sweden by storm. But the way to the success hasn’t always been straightforward for Lash. Growing up in Hulta, Borås, was not that easy, but music fed Lashari’s dreams. “I have always been a little rebel,” she says. “I spent my childhood dealing with drugs, gender confusion and hopelessness. Everything was a struggle – school, life, home – and that’s when I turned to music. It helped me escape reality and allowed me to dream of a better future for me and my friends.” She is fiercely driven by her wish to see equality in society. “Fitting in just wasn’t my thing. I shocked my parents by shaving my eyebrows when I was eight. Everyone wants to be different in today’s society. Disrupting the norm is trendy and ‘cool’. Growing up and breaking norms at a very young age was a struggle and a blessing, it still is. Yes, I was bullied, I was threatened and I was treated differently by society, but I also got a lot of love and support from family, friends and random people.” Today Lashari is thankful and proud of where she comes from: “Hulta is in my heart! I will never forget where it all started.”

Nora Fazel Influencer

A digital native, Nora Fazel goes her own way. At the beginning of her career she thought that working as an influencer automatically meant she was supposed to fill her life with seemingly interesting activities to please those who followed her, sharing stories from a continuous flow of events and receiving clothes – which is exactly what she did until she decided to stop trying to please others. “A normal day for me now consists of studying journalism, dressing comfortably but still feeling confident in what I wear, eating well and taking care of myself. I make my own path and, honestly, I only need to influence myself,” she says. Fazel dreams of contributing to society and wants to publish a book. “I want to use my mind and body to make things better for those who need to kick back and relax. For now it seems like I’ll achieve this through journalism.” She already uses her space online to share warmth and strength, and she despises inhumanity. “Sweden is for everybody,” says Fazel.

this page: nora wears Trucker trench denim jacket, Traveller’s knitted Jacket, Greaser Straight Jeans (around waist) and Track Trousers by levi’s opposite page: anfa wears Type II Worn Trucker dark blue Jacket, Type II Worn Trucker light blue jacket,  Boy Tee T-shirt and 501 jeans by levi’s Hair and make-up: Helen Borg at Agent Bauer Casting: Helin Honung

Rebels

with a cause Words by Petter Bladlund Photography by Andreas Karlsson Styling by Emma Thorstrand Special thanks to Dr. Martens

In a world where trends and social expectations can spread too easily, the desire to stay true to one’s self is perhaps stronger than ever. Which is why The Forumist is celebrating Dr. Martens, that instantly recognisable icon of originality, and the fearless faces of Sweden’s fashion future

The various pressures of our times make it increasingly difficult to embrace uniqueness and to stay calm in the informational overflow that we are constantly bombarded with. In many spheres, the homogeneous is favoured over the heterogeneous, the habitual over the unexplored, and the safe over the adventurous, so it’s hard not to admire the creative spirit, self-expression and ingenuity of the next generation of Swedish fashion-design talent. During Stockholm Fashion Week at the end of August, a specially selected group of alumni from The Swedish School of Textiles and a host of other great talents showcased their playful and eye-catching designs before an expectant crowd – and the audience was not disappointed. Through a flurry of materials, colours, details and unique cuts, these talented creators showed the world that they are the future of fashion and design: they are the young stars who will carry the torch for years to come and whose designs will become the cult looks of tomorrow. For Dr. Martens, the now-iconic footwear brand, its designs were born from a persisting sense of rebellious self-expression and originality that has permeated the brand ever since the 1960s. Through its unabashed attitude and ingenuity, the brand has created timeless and unmistakable designs, and become a true icon – and it all came from an urge to be different, a need to embrace one’s true self. So over the next pages, The Forumist is celebrating the shared sense of originality and self-expression between Dr. Martens and this new generation of Swedish design talent. Reflecting the rebellious, original heritage of Dr. Martens, these young designers’ creations are bound to become future classics. Whether they spread their wings on their own, or choose a more worn path, these talents will continue to innovate, push boundaries and stay refreshingly rebellious. This is only the beginning of a transition that will not only change their own lives, but the course of fashion and design.

this page: NYBERG BOOTS BY DR. MARTENS, DRESS BY KAROLINA CENTENO NORBERG, STOCKINGS STYLIST’S OWN opposite page: nyberg boots by Dr. Martens, Dress by Linn Sohl DR. MARTENS, KATARINA BANGATAN 15, STOCKHOLM

01 17

32 01

this page, clockwise from top left: vegan pascal chrome boots by Dr. Martens, Dress by Lynn Tallvod, Stockings stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own mukai shoes by Dr. Martens, Coat by Alice Jardstren, Stockings stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own serova shoes by Dr. Martens, Jacket, trousers and hats by Rave Review opposite page: mukai mary-jane shoes by Dr. Martens, Dress by Stina Randestad

this page: vegan pascal chrome boots by Dr. Martens, Dress by Matilda Forssblad opposite page: vegan pascal chrome boots by Dr. Martens, Dress by Matilda Envall, Stockings stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Model: Tova G at Mikas

New

Topographics Sometimes it helps to find a new way of looking at things: adding a bold shoulder, unexpected shape or futuristic fabric will make sure time doesn’t stand still Photography by Cesar Love Alexandre Styling by Karolina Brock  OPPOSITE PAGE: PANTS, SHIRT AND TRENCH COAT BY PETER DO, SHOES BY MISBHV, EARRINGS BY 3.1 PHILLIP LIM

this page, clockwise from top: Shirt and trousers by Peter Do, Earring by 3.1 Phillip Lim, Tights stylist’s own, Shoes by MISBHV Jacket and dress (worn as top) by Eckhaus Latta, Skirt and boots by Peter Do, Earring by 3.1 Phillip Lim Coat, shirt and trousers by Peter Do, Earrings 3.1 by Phillip Lim, Shoes by MISBHV Top by Alexander Wang, Trousers by Eckhaus Latta, Earrings by Yvmin from Chop Suey Club, Boots by Peter Do 46

this page, clockwise from top: Blouse by Andrea Jiapei Li, Trousers by Britt Luttio, Shoes by Han Wen Jacket by LRS, Jumpsuit by Yeojjoun, Stockings stylist’s own, Shoes by Han Wen Dress by Britt Luttio, Stockings stylist’s own, Shoes by Alexander Wang Coat by Opening Ceremony, Skirt by Hyke, Earrings by Beaufille. Boots by Peter Do 47

opposite page: TOP BY ALEXANDER WANG, PANTS BY ECKHAUS LATTA, BOOTS BY PETER DO, EARRINGS BY YVMIN FROM CHOP SUEY CLUB this page: Glasses by Percy Lau from Chop Suey Club Hair: Vi Huynh  Make-up: Mark de los Reyes Model: Olivia Jansing at Next   Set designer: Colin Lytton  Photographer’s assistants: Charles Letessier and Alibek Amanturlin Stylist’s assistants: Sandrine Francois and Madison Headlee Special thanks to: Pier59 Studios, New York

Just Keep Swimming Intoxicating new material is taking the Swedish songstress Lykke Li in a new direction. Her message? Change is sometimes painful, but it’s an essential part of life if you’ve any hope of growing as a person Words by AMANDA BÅMSTEDT Photography by John Scarisbrick Styling by NATALIE OLENHEIM this page, clockwise from right: Jacket by Johannes Adele, Shirt by Arethé, Trousers and shoes by Ann-Sofie Back; Jacket by Tove Berner-Wik; Jacket by Mashama; Jacket by Tove Berner-Wik, Trousers lykke’s own, photograph taken using a samsung galaxy s9

opposite page: main, Blanket by Johannes Adele, Trousers by Naim Josefi, Sunglasses by Prada; inset, Jacket by Nand, Trousers by Naim Josefi

Listening to Lykke Li’s latest album, So Sad So Sexy, it doesn’t take long to notice that she has gone through big changes in her personal life as well as with her music. The concept of change is present in her honest lyrics about a relationship falling apart, as well as in the melodies that show there are new sides to her artistry. The sound is more upbeat and filled with pure pop, taking her tunes in a new direction compared with her previous records. “It seemed that I spent my whole twenties exploring the darker themes of love in a very introspective way. After giving birth and then experiencing some personal tragedies, I felt I’d had enough of the darkness and wanted to make something that lifted me up and also showed the transformation I’d undergone as a woman,” says Li. The soundscape on So Sad So Sexy is also filled with the pulse of Los Angeles at night, projecting an air of solitude and mystery. When Li describes it, it’s almost poetic: “Driving alone at night with only my thoughts as company. The view from my bedroom window. Smoking cigarettes at night by my pool.” You can almost smell the cigarette smoke and hear the distant buzz of the city’s traffic while the music plays. Los Angeles seems not only to play an important role musically, it’s also the counter opposite of her life

in Stockholm. “LA, for me, is where I finally became an adult and it’s also a place that’s very much about you creating the life you want to live, as there are no rules or boundaries. It’s a place for dreamers and a very modern place. And for the first time in my life I was also really inspired by what was going on culturally, on the streets, on the radio. It is a very eclectic place and I wanted to make something contemporary,” Li says. Even her style and aesthetic have changed significantly. The Lykke Li we know from previous albums seems to be gone. She describes transition as being a natural part of being an artist, the process of getting inspired by her surroundings and creating little worlds that, sooner or later, she tires of, making her want to go in a completely opposite direction. “Being pregnant made me more aware and loving of my body, and it was really interesting to see how flexible and changeable the body is,” she says. “So for some reason, after the pregnancy, I wanted to cover it up less. And I had a very immediate impulse to chop my hair off and go blonde. But ultimately I think I just feel like a real woman for the first time in my life.” The lyrics on So Sad So Sexy feel very upfront and honest; they’re small stories that capture different aspects of life and love. Writing them is something Li

uses in a therapeutic way, or as she puts it: “Sometimes I feel like I unfortunately manifest things with my lyrics before they even happen. It’s like I’m having a dialogue with my subconscious.” On reading recent interviews with Li, you realise that the past couple of years have been rough for her, offering both happiness and sorrow. They’ve made her stronger but also more vulnerable. Nowadays, she tries to take better care of her personal life. “It put a lot of things in perspective. Before, I would lay awake obsessing over how nothing ever turned out good enough. But now I’m more thankful that I even get the chance to do anything at all. It makes me try to think of the journey a little more, because ultimately we are all going to die. So, in a way, everything and nothing really matters. The most important thing is to live while you can. Stay open. Love,” says Li, delivering some heavy life lessons. Evolution is essential to Li, and trying to get to the bottom of what everything means is what drives her creativity. She explores her visions and dreams while staying true to the voices and urges inside her. She mentions the famous saying that a shark dies if it doesn’t swim forward, and draws parallels between this and being an artist, as well as life in general. “All we can really be sure about is that nothing lasts for ever and things are forever changing,” says Li, reflecting on the essential core of transition. It’s hard not to agree with her: things evolve and change for the good and for the bad. The decisions we make lead to things taking new turns and directions, transforming our life, bit by bit. For Li, life is a balancing act right now. “I have a young child and I’m on tour most of the year, and then we are working on launching my female-empowerment brand, Yola Mezcal, in Europe,” she says. Li is making sure that she lives life to the fullest – feel the force. lykkeli.com, yolamezcal.com this page: right, Jacket by Nand; below, jacket by Tove Berner-Wik, photograph taken using a samsung galaxy s9 opposite page: main and inset, Jacket by Tove Berner-Wik, Trousers lykke’s own. inset photograph taken using a samsung galaxy s9 Hair: Jacob Kajrup  Make-up: Josefina Zarmén at Link Details Stylist’s assistant: Alina Bendikova

‘I’m trying to amuse myself all the time’ Looking back at more than 20 years in the business, David Shrigley, one of Britain’s most renowned and loved artists, opens up for an honest dialogue about his work, its meaning and its place in the history of art Words by Ted Hammerin

I have done it for my entire life. I never really intended that it be the centre of my practice, but I realised that it was my thing, so that was what it became,” he says. After publishing his second book filled with the characteristic drawings, Shrigley ended up on the cover of what he describes as a “fancy” art magazine. “All of a sudden, everyone knew who I was, and that was that.” That was 23 years ago, and his work hasn’t stopped amusing and amazing people. “I never intended to be the ‘go-to guy’ for making funny drawings in the world of fine arts. But I sort of have become that guy,” he says. His style is truly unique in the art world; maybe best described as straightforward and simple, it is nevertheless magnetic. His pieces are anything but boring – and the process isn’t either, he admits. “I’m trying to amuse myself all the time, not just to make myself laugh, but amuse myself in the sense that I’m trying to get to a place I’ve never been to before, and trying to do that by making drawings a lot of the time.” So is it art? Is it good? And who says so? Shrigley has come to challenge many basic norms of the art world since making his entry more than 20 years ago. Today, he looks at himself, his art and its place in different light. “So, the work is funny. I mean, it’s

top: DAVID SHRIGLEY, REALLY GOOD (2017), ON THE FOURTH PLINTH IN TRAFALGAR SQUARE, LONDON, photoGRAPH BY Linda Jablonsky above, from left: david shrigley (2014), photograph by craIg gibson. david shrigley, Self portrait (2018) from far left: DAVID SHRIGLEY, Gold-shit (2018), A pleasing situation (2018), Knock everything down (2018), Lies (2018), AND Your pizza haS arrived (2018)

“Have you ever been to Shanghai?” David Shrigley asks straightaway. It’s easy to get an idea of the curious mind behind his unique art in just a few seconds. “It really doesn’t look like it’s in a communist country,” he says. The friendly, calm voice at the other end of the line gives the impression that we could probably keep talking about Shanghai for another half-hour or so. Shrigley has just arrived back in the UK from another destination on his tour that has been showcasing his art around the world. Over the past two years, the tour has made stops in Mexico, Chile, South Korea, New Zealand and now, last on the list, China. Most famous for his drawings accompanied with text, slogans and puns, Shrigley is an artist who is not particularly easy to get a grip of. His CV lists sculptures, large installations, animations, paintings, 54

photography and music, painting a complex picture of an artist. Among the many projects that have got the attention of the public, there have been collaborations with musicians including Franz Ferdinand and Blur, and his giant, 7-metre-high thumb, entitled Really Good (2017), in Trafalgar Square, London. “I’ve kind of worked in almost every media there is,” he says, laughing. “Maybe apart from dance, but dance is on its way, you know. I’m sure it will arrive in the future.” Growing up, his heroes were Marcel Duchamp and Andy Warhol, and he took to the pen at an early age. After graduating from art school in the early 1990s, he returned to what he knew best. With limited funds and space, he came to create what soon would be the foundation and centre of his oeuvre. “It was the easiest and most economical way to say what I wanted to say.

sort of unique in the world of fine art, in that it genuinely functions as comedy as well as art. It’s been a thing I always end up talking about – making funny art, and can funny art be serious, or taken seriously as art? And it’s a question I don’t really care about any more. Who cares, really? Who cares whether people take it seriously? I mean, people do take it seriously. I drive a brand-new Volvo, so… ” he says before breaking into laughter. When asked to try to explain the success he has experienced over the years, he laughs again. “I never intended to be a success, but I’m very happy that I am. It was never anything I anticipated, and I really just do what comes naturally. I mean, my job is just to make art that I think is interesting, because I can’t expect anybody else to think it’s interesting unless I do.”

And now, his installation Exhibition of Giant Inflatable Swan-things, created exclusively for the Spritmuseum in Stockholm, is about to open. Unsurprisingly, the installation originates from what Shrigley calls a “bizarre idea”. From a typical Shrigley drawing, giant, three-dimensional swans designed as swimming-pool toys have taken shape. “There’s something weirdly fascinating about changing shapes, inflation and deflation. There’s something about breathing, life and death somehow,” he says in a slightly dreamy voice. While nothing is as it seems in Shrigley’s universe, watching his work will never get boring. Exhibition of the Giant Inflatable Swan-things, until March 31, 2019; Spritmuseum, Stockholm. For more information, visit spritmuseum.se or davidshrigley.com

Art, Music & Tailoring

EXPERTS IN MIXING SINCE 1783

TONIC & TOUCH OF LIME

TONIC & HIBISCUS

TONIC & PINK PEPPER