The Gateway Gardener September 2015 by The Gateway Gardener

Gateway Gardener

SEPTEMBER 2015

THE

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Your Guide to Enjoyable Gardening and Easy-Care Landscapes Our

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Top 10 Perennials for Fall Color

Making Scents in the Garden Native Goldenrods Sedums FREE Courtesy of:

Davidsanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Japanese Maples

Celebrating 10 years

of providing timely, regional gardening information and helpful resources.

Thank you to these gateway area garden centers, product

manufacturers, attractions and service providers for their regular, ongoing support, and to our readers for trusting their products and services! Thanks, also, to the many other advertisers who have chosen to promote their products and events to our readers through the years, and to the valued professionals who have contributed their knowledge and expertise through the articles found in these pages.

St. Peters Hardware and Rental

Valley Park Elevator and Hardware

Gateway Gardener THE

Your Guide to Enjoyable Gardening and Easy-Care Landscapes

September 2015

Volume 11, Number 7

Founded in 2005 by

Robert Weaver & Joyce Bruno

Publisher and Editor Robert Weaver Columnists

Barbara Perry Lawton Garden Book Author and Garden Writer Connie Alwood Master Gardener Diane Brueckman Rosarian Joyce Driemeyer Master Gardener Mara Higdon Gateway Greening Michael McVey Irrigation and Lighting Professional Steffie Littlefield Nursery Professional Abby Elliott

Nursery Professional

Jennifer Schamber Nursery Professional

Scott Woodbury

Native Plant Specialist

Printing: Breese Publishing, Breese, IL The Gateway Gardener® is published monthly by Double Dig Communications, Inc. to promote enjoyable, successful gardening and livable landscapes in the St. Louis greater metropolitan area. The magazine is distributed free to the public at designated garden centers, nurseries, garden gift shops, lawn equipment rental, repair and sales establishments, and other locations supporting sound gardening, lawn and landscaping practices. Please send letters-to-the-editor, questions, event announcements, editorial suggestions and contributions, photos, advertising inquiries and materials, and any other correspondence to: The Gateway Gardener Magazine® PO Box 220853 St. Louis, MO 63122 Phone: (314) 968-3740

info@gatewaygardener.com www.gatewaygardener.com The Gateway Gardener® is printed on recycled newsprint using environmentally friendly soy-based ink, and is a member of the PurePower® renewable energy resources network.

From the Editor

round 11 years ago, Bill Ruppert, a wholesale plant sales representative and tireless promoter of our local green business community, showed me a copy of a publication called the Kansas City Gardener. “We need something like this in St. Louis,” he said. It took very little arm-twisting, and with the example and generous advice of KC Gardener’s publisher and editor, Michael and Elizabeth Cavanaugh, my sister-in-law, Joyce Bruno, Our Gateway Gardener family, left to right: and I started our publishing Back row, Robert and Mary Weaver, Joyce journey. and Pat Bruno. Middle row, Michael Weaver The mission of our upstart and Tony Bruno. Front row, Chris, Lisa, and magazine was simple: to Charlie Weaver. Go Cards! promote sound, regionally specific practices that would make gardening easier and more successful for beginners and experts alike. A component of that effort was to support the independent garden centers and other small, family-run green businesses, because they, after all—with their generations of experience—held the keys to the library of plant care and plant knowledge.

We have been fortunate to recruit a group of professionals in various green disciplines—turf, ornamental gardening, tree care, herbs, roses, etc.—who are respected in their fields and enthusiastic

about sharing their substantial knowledge with our readers. They are the fountain of great advice and “plant geek” wisdom you find each month. Thanks to Barbara Perry Lawton, Steffie Littlefield, Diane Brueckman, Joyce Driemeyer, Abby Lapides Elliott, Jennifer Schamber, Mara Higdon, Michael McVey, and Scott Woodbury--our 2015 lineup--for keeping us up to date on the latest trends for advanced gardeners, and gardening 101 tips for those of us who are still relative beginners. Thanks also to past contributors Ellen Barredo, MaryAnn Fink, Glenn Kraemer, and the late and much missed Cindy Gilberg, for

On the Cover... Fall needn’t be only about colorful tree foliage or annual mum displays. Perennials can brighten up the fall garden with color, too, as proven by these Japanese anemones ‘Honorine Jobert’. For more perennials for fall color, see page 6. (Photo by Robert Weaver)

IN THIS ISSUE

4 Making Scents in the Garden 6 Top 10 Fall Beauties

8 10 11 12 14 16 18 18 20 21 22

supporting the magazine and being valued contributors for so much of our young history.

Thanks, Bill Ruppert, for that initial push, and for using your green network influence to muster support in early days and since. And thanks to the Cavanaughs for selflessly sharing the model and advice to get it right. Thanks to our readers, whom I meet frequently at events, and who increase my hat size with their always-generous and kind words and appreciation for the magazine.

Major thanks, of course, to the advertisers, whose support makes the free magazine possible. (See the opposite page for an extended appreciation.)

And finally but most importantly, thank you to family members pictured here, for contributing their time and labor—all in some way or another at one time or another. Thanks to Joyce for partnering with me to steer the magazine through its formative years. And especially, thank you, Mary, for indulging this adventure, and supporting me not only in this journey, but through our broader life together.

Good Gardening!

Native Goldenrods Sedums Know the Pros Light Up Your Landscape: Part II Rose Problems My Favorite Tree Preserving Your Harvest JT’s Fresh Ideas Dig This Fall Plant Sales Upcoming Events

Making Scents in the Garden by Barbara Perry Lawton

Since, like taste, the sense of smell is very individual, you should rely on your own nose. Choose what is appealing to you. Fragrances can be classed in several general categories. Most commonly, the aromas of garden ornamentals will fall within one of several categories:

ragrance can trigger memories of places and events. In the garden, fragrance can stop you in its tracks. The sense of smell is powerful and can be overwhelming. Most often it is the flowers of plants that give forth their signature aromas but sometimes it is the foliage. Many of our herb garden favorites are highly aromatic, especially when bruised. Walk through a bed of thyme (Thymus) and you will discover this.

Exotic or Oriental are often strong scents, reminiscent of the tropics, and may carry a long way. Many of these plants have white flowers that open at night or become more fragrant when their nocturnal pollinators are active. Plants in this group include jasmines (Jasminum), nicotiana (Nicotiana), clerodendrons (Clerodendrum)

The fashions of gardening are ever changing. Currently, an Though their fragrance can be overlooked because of their increasing and welcome trend beauty, coneflowers often present a subtle vanilla-like scent. is toward using fragrant plants in our ornamental gardens. Breeders of ornamental plants have turned their focus to such and tuberoses (Polyanthes). delights as fragrance as well as more subtle colors and forms. It Spicy scents--the clove-like smell of these plants’ flowers makes is getting easier to find irises, lilies of the valley, pinks and other them very popular. This group includes Viburnum carlesii, garden favorites that smell wonderful—each in its own special Viburnum juddii, stocks (Matthiola), daphne (Daphne) and, of way. course, pinks and carnations (Dianthus). White and pink are the

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dominant colors in this group.

Fruity scents are found in flowers as well as the foliage of many true mints (Mentha) and other herbs. The flowers of evening primroses (Oenothera) and four o’clocks (Mirabilis jalapa) may have lemon-like fragrances. Freesias (Freesia) smell like plums. Flowers with mixed fragrances including vanilla and almond are quite common. Floral scents that are sweet but not cloying are associated with particular flowers such as sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) and lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria). Scented foliage such as found in herbs can make a valuable addition to a fragrant garden. Again, let your nose be your guide. Foliage can be lemony, floral, pungent or “leafy green.” Fragrant foliage can be gently rubbed or bruised to bring out the scent. Treat friends to these special charms by giving them a fragrant leaf or two to crush and smell. There also are plants that have unpleasant and sometimes even Barbara Perry Lawton is a writer, author, speaker and photographer. She has served as manager of publications for Missouri Botanical Garden and as weekly garden columnist for the PostDispatch. The author of a number of gardening and natural history books, and contributor to many periodicals, she has earned regional and national honors for her writing and photography. Barbara is also a Master Gardener and volunteers at MBG.

The Gateway Gardener®

SEPTEMBER 2015

repulsive scents. Skunk cabbage (Lysichiton), native to North American swamps, has a pungent skunky smell. Carrion flowers (Stapelia) smell like rotting meat.

discover that some cultivated varieties will be very fragrant while others will have no odor at all. For instance, some tulips have no fragrance while others are very aromatic. I am happy to report that The sense of smell is complex and in some ways hereditary. Take a number of plant breeders now are looking for good scents in their the time to study fragrant plants and choose your own personal hybridizing programs. favorite fragrances. Plants release their fragrances in different Decide how you will take advantage of the special character of ways and at different times. Some, like autumn clematis (Clematis the scented plants you choose. For instance, use creeping thyme terniflora) will perfume an entire garden. between stepping stones to enhance any walkway. Place containers Fragrant herbs become more aromatic when heated by the sun. and garden beds near doors and patios to bring scents close to the Nicotianas (Nicotiana) are most fragrant at night. Others, such nose. as lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria) and tuberose (Polyanthes) are equally fragrant night and day. Visit public gardens such as our own Missouri Botanical Garden to find more fragrant plants that you might like to grow. You will soon

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Top 10 Fall Beauties! by Abby Elliott

s the days shorten and leaves on trees turn from verdant greens to brilliant yellows, oranges and reds, it can be easy to just look up. Here are 10 perennial plants that will keep your eyes glued down.

Lobelia cardinalis, Cardinal Flower

the Cardinal Flower. The aptlynamed red blossoms reach into the sky starting late summer into fall. Hummingbirds absolutely go gaga for these perennials. Preferring moist locations, Cardinal Flower excels in wet or low spots in the garden. Although a short-lived perennial (most plants don’t live longer than 3-4 years) Cardinal Flower can be a prolific reseeder—be judicious with your weeding. They can tolerate full sun, but do best when protected with some afternoon shade.

Actaea matsumurae (formerly Cimicifuga simplex) ‘White Pearl’ Bugbane If it’s fall, chances are the St. Louis Cardinals are gearing up White, bottlebrush blossoms for a playoff run. Show your elegantly float on 2’ tall narrow support with the Missouri native stems over bright green lacey

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foliage. Also known as Fairy Candles, I love the almost magical way the tall flowers dance in the fall breeze. Blooms appear in late summer and can last well into fall -- sometimes as late as November. Reaching 3-4’ tall it makes an excellent plant for the back of the shade border. Aster dumosus

8 ‘KickinTM Sapphire’ Aster

roots grow almost twice as long as its 3-4’ height, giving this beauty extreme drought tolerance once established. There are only two jobs needed to care for this plant: cut it down at the end of winter or early spring, and marvel over the beauty and toughness of this grass.

6 Panicum virgatum ‘Cheyenne Sky’ Switch Grass

I have to say it: This gorgeous plant really kicks Aster. Sunny yellow-centered blossoms surrounded by pastel blue petals fill every square inch of the foliage during late summer and fall. Butterflies love the sweet nectar, and you’ll love how they create the perfect dome with no pinching!

Before winter hits have your garden go out in a blaze of glory with ‘Cheyenne Sky’. In early summer 2’ tall steel bluegreen blades become tipped with burgundy red. As summer turns to fall the entire grass gets drenched in a rich wine-soaked red. The matching flowers look like a cloud floating over the vibrant blades, a distinguishing Schizachyrium characteristic of this tough 7 scoparium prairie grass. Cheyenne Sky Little Bluestem reaches only 3’ tall when in This handsome Missouri native bloom, making it easy to fit into is a real tough-guy. Its slender a mixed perennial garden and leaves emerge green with a blue containers. tint at the base then turn brilliant scarlet-orange in fall. Reaching Chelone oblique 5 Turtle Head 6-7’ deep, Little Bluestem’s The Gateway Gardener®

SEPTEMBER 2015

Amsonia hubrictii

3 Arkansas Bluestar

this plant in your garden, but the blooms will make you want to try every Toad Lily available. Grows 2-3’ tall and wide. Anemone x hybrida

1 ‘Honorine Jobert’ Japanese Anemone

Bright rose pink snapdragonlike flowers bloom on erect deep glossy green foliage in late summer and early fall. Turtle Head gets its unique name from the shape of its flowers that, you guessed it, really look like the heads of little turtles. This excellent Missouri native will tolerate just about any soil and light condition, but performs best in damp, partially shady areas. Grows about 2-3’ tall and wide; may need to be staked in deeper shade.

4 Heuchera ‘Melting Fire’ Coral Bell

One of my all time favorite plants, Arkansas Bluestar must be included on the fall beauties list. Powder blue star-shaped flowers bloom in clusters on the top of Bluestar’s foliage in spring, but it’s the feathery, ferny leaves that act as the real star. Its bright green foliage just begs to be touched-I can’t walk by a clump without running my hands along the soft foliage. All its beautiful tactile foliage turns brilliant gold in fall. It makes a great accent planted in a mixed perennial garden. However, I love it grown in large masses where it looks like a pile you just want to dive on into. Grows 2-3’ tall and wide.

2 Tricyrtis spp. Toad Lily

Thought not a fall bloomer, ‘Melting Fire’ Coral Bells needs to be on this list of top fall beauties due to its show stopping fall foliage and versatility. Melting Fire easily fits into a shady garden with its interesting foliage and frothy white summer blooms, but it does so much more. Featuring highly-ruffled burgundy leaves, the foliage acquires a bright purple wash as the weather cools. Moreover, Melting Fire keeps its spectacular leaves all winter long since it’s evergreen! This special beauty fits into woodland gardens, works in formal plantings by front doors, or in containers that transition from fall to winter. SEPTEMBER 2015

Blooming powerhouse ‘Honorine Jobert’ Japanese Anemone claims bright white 2-3” flower petals with golden

sepals surrounding kiwi green centers. Flowers float high over deep green glossy foliage August through September. Developed in the 1850s in France, it has been a perennial favorite for over 150 years. <SPOILER ALERT> Honorine Jobert has been named the 2016 Perennial Plant of the Year by Perennial Plant Association, a group of the top perennial growers. I recommend planting these where they can be seen from your patio, you will want to see them glow at dusk when enjoying an evening outdoors. Photos provided by the author except: Cardinal flower and Bluestar, courtesy Walters Gardens, Inc. Little bluestem, Cheyenne Sky Switch grass and Turtle head by Robert Weaver.

Abby Lapides Elliott is owner and a speaker at Sugar Creek Gardens Nursery. She has degrees from the University of Missouri, and is a member of the Landscape and Nursery Association of Greater St. Louis. You can reach her at (314) 965-3070.

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Naturally Natives Goldenrods Feed Migrating Monarchs...and more!

Text and Photos by Scott Woodbury

Another myth is perpetuated hould I be surprised at how by gardeners. It states that all advertising and the media perpetuate myths? Not goldenrods are weeds. This point is founded somewhat in really, that’s how they make truth as tall goldenrod (Solidago money. Lots of it. Take allergy altissima) is a pesky weed. But meds for instance. In a typical ad happy people walk through there are about two dozen species of goldenrods in Missouri, a field of yellow blooming goldenrod. No runny nose, no many of which are great garden plants and provide much-needed sneezing; presumably due of the nectar for migrating monarch wonders of their product. The butterflies in late summer. They thing is goldenrod (Solidago also feed 115 species of butterfly spp.) doesn’t cause hay fever. Ragweed (Ambrosia spp.) does. and moth caterpillars according to Doug Tallamy and Kimberly They bloom at the same time Showy goldenrod (S. speciosa) though only goldenrod is visible. Shropshire. In addition, it is a known fact In shade, gardeners have several that goldenrod pollen is heavy species to choose from. Blue-stemmed goldenrod (Solidago and carried by bees, while ragweed pollen is light and carried by caesia), zig-zag goldenrod (S. flexicaulis), rough-leaved goldenrod the wind. It’s no wonder gardeners shy away from goldenrod. (S. rugosa), Buckley’s goldenrod (S. buckleyii), downy goldenrod (S. petiolaris) and Atlantic goldenrod (S. arguta). Zig-zag is a

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A colorful collection of beautiful garden plants that attract, feed and provide shelter to bees, butterflies and other pollinators.

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Atlantic goldenrod (Solidago arguta) Buckley’s goldenrod (S. buckleyi) Blue-stemmed goldenrod (S. ceasia) Zig-zag goldenrod (S. flexicaulis) Downy goldenrod (S. petiolaris) Rough-leaved goldenrod (S. rugosa) Cliff goldenrod (S. drummondii) Old field goldenrod (S. nemoralis) Riddell’s goldenrod (S. ridellii) Showy goldenrod (S. speciosa)

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SEPTEMBER 2015

Tips and Resources for Growing and Landscaping with Sustainable Native Plants

Zig-zag goldenrod (S. flexicaulis) groundcover that spreads moderately by underground runners so plant them in masses on about 14-18” centers for a solid cover in two years. Blue-stemmed and rough-leaved goldenrod tend to naturalize in woodland gardens so expect to see it move around from seed. Blue-stemmed prefers dry woodlands and roughleaved likes growing in moist or flood-plain woodlands. Downy goldenrod flowers cluster along the top half of 2-3 foot stems much like eastern blazingstar (Liatris scariosa) and both grow well in dry soils. Buckley’s and Atlantic goldenrods are unknown species to gardening but are real winners. Atlantic goldenrod grows 3-4 ft. tall and has several horizontal long flower clusters that resemble fireworks. It is a dramatic large clump-forming goldenrod that has bluish stems and lemon-yellow flowers. Buckley’s goldenrod is 2 ft. tall, clump-forming and a very attractive woodland goldenrod that tolerates very dry to average soils. In the sun showy goldenrod (S. speciosa), old field goldenrod (S. nemoralis), Riddell’s goldenrod (S. ridellii), stiff goldenrod (S. rigida), and cliff goldenrod (S. drummondii) vie for places in the native garden. Cliff goldenrod can tolerate part-shade and as the name implies, it is a cliff-dweller so is drought tolerant. That said, it also thrives in average garden soils. I like to plant them at the edges of walls because the short stems and flowers cascade down like yellow waterfalls. Ridell’s goldenrod is a flat-topped wetland species that is at home in a rain garden along-side rose turtlehead (Chelone obliqua) and orange coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida var. umbrosa). Showy goldenrod is 3-4 feet tall and strongly upright so it a good perennial for the back of the flower border. If your soils Horticulturist Scott Woodbury is the Curator of the Whitmire Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve, where he has worked with native plant propagation, design, and education for more than 20 years.

Blue-stemmed goldenrod (S. caesia) are dry, rocky, sloped or well-drained old field goldenrod is a good choice. It doesn’t persist in average to wet soils and grows 18-24 inches tall. Stiff goldenrod is aggressive in gardens but is a good choice for areas that are difficult to manage or mow like steep slopes or rocky areas. Good companion plants for areas like these include other quick-establishing but long-lasting natives like switch grass (Panicum virgatum), New England aster (Aster novae-angliae), sweet coneflower (Rudbeckia subtomentosa), and common milkweed (Asclepias syriacas). Many of these species will be available for sale at the fall Shaw Wildflower Market at Shaw Nature Reserve Friday, September 11, 2015 from 4-7:30 p.m. Also, the Shaw Nature Reserve Native Plant School will be offering a class on “Gardening with Asters and Goldenrods” on October 8th. To register, visit the Shaw website.

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Sedums-Lots of Variety, Easy to Grow! S by Stephanie Littlefield

the fall. My most reliable sedum is pachysedum, with its thicker pachysandra-like bright green foliage and lemony yellow flowers. This plant is easy to use since it tolerates slightly more shade and moisture and is really fast to fill in an area.

edums (stonecrop) as a plant family come in all shapes, colors and sizes with many different uses, but all are extremely reliable and easy care, given the correct conditions. Poor soil, good drainage, dry spots, half-day to full-day sun, granular mulch rather than moisture holding bark, and neglect are the conditions where sedums will thrive.

S. cauticola

textured sedums are stars. S. cauticola with its tiny 2” growth habit is loved for its silver-blue foliage and pinkish purple flowers. S. acre has fresh dark green tiny fringed leaves and yellow flowers on two inch plants. S. rupestre ‘Angelina’ For rock gardens, steppingstone sedum has the prettiest bright paths and rooftops, the lowlemon lime foliage of any plant growing, spreading and fine and this full-growing, trailing Where can you use them? Rock gardens, perennial borders, as groundcovers, on rooftops, over ledges and along walls, between steppingstones and in places other plants will not grow as long as there is sun.

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plant spills elegantly over walls as well as from the tops of large containers. Add to this display Sedum spurium ‘Tri-color’, pink and white edges brighten light sage green leaves and are simply charming all season long. Some of the other sedums make great groundcovers, growing somewhat larger, reaching 1224” in their spread. S. ‘Vera Jamison’ has wonderful reddish foliage all summer and is topped with hot pink flowers in late summer. S. ‘Rosy Glow’ has wider flat leaves that are light bluish-green and appear soft in contrast with the bright pinkto-purple flowers that attract all kinds of butterflies and bees in

Every butterfly garden, fall blooming border and xeroscape garden should include the amazing Sedum spectabile. Some of the newest varieties that boast larger brighter flowers on sturdy stems include ‘Purple Emperor’ with lush dark purple foliage. ‘Mr. Goodbud’ has large clusters of purple/pink flowers in September. Don’t

‘Autumn Fire’ miss ‘Autumn Fire’ whose lovely grey/green foliage starts as a rosette in spring, reaches 18-24” in summer with white to light green buds that burst open in fall with dusty rose flowers

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‘Mr. Goodbud’ that mature to rusty red in the fall.

Whether you have a large complex landscape, a postagestamp-size yard or just a balcony to grow your own bit of nature in containers, sedums will add new texture, color and carefree fun to your garden project. They thrive in extreme heat and perform beautifully late in the season. photos courtesy Gardens, Inc.

Walters

A Little History…

Steffie Littlefield is a horticulturist and garden designer at Garden Heights Nursery. She has degrees from St. Louis Community College at Meramec and Southeast Missouri State and is a member of Gateway Professional Horticulturist Association and past president of the Horticulture Co-op of Metropolitan St. Louis.

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In 1953 Frank Frisella founded Frisella Nursery in Ferguson, Missouri. In the over 60 years since Frisella Nursery has been a mainstay in the St. Louis landscape industry. Over the years the company has grown to include a growing operation with over 200 acres of plant material, along with the garden center and landscape departments. Today the company is led by Babette Frisella Briagas and Tony Frisella.

You’ve GOT to see…

…Frisella Nursery’s 30 acres of land housing one of the largest selections of plant material in the St. Louis area. Much of the plant material is locally grown either at the garden center or at their farm just 15 miles away to reduce the need of shipping material across the country. At the garden center custom planters and hanging baskets are dreamt up, and this fall they will once again be growing a large crop of mums. The garden center’s Café Angelina has been a welcomed addition serving lunch and homemade baked goods since 2007.

What’s New for 2015?

Frisella Nursery’s roots are in plants so 2015 brought in some new varieties that have everyone excited. Plant trends are continuing to bring smaller sizes and more colors. Two new hydrangeas, ‘Rhythmic Blue’ and ‘Blue Jangles’ are two of the bluest they’ve seen. The new dwarf salvia ‘New Dimension Blue’ and ‘New Dimension Rose’ show promise for small landscape settings as they are said to stay under 1’ in height by 1.5’ spread. A new Japanese Maple for Frisella Nursery is ‘Japanese Sunrise’, in honor of Frank Frisella whose love for Japanese Maples saw many varieties come through their doors over the years. This is a new coral bark cultivar that can have bark color ranging from yellow to orange and even bright red depending on the time of year, tree location and age of the bark.

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SEPTEMBER 2015

The Gateway Gardener®

Search our website’s membership directory or look for the LNAGSL logo in members’ ads in The Gateway Gardener.

StLouisLandscape.org 11

Light Up Your Landscape: Part II by Michael McVey

Ed. note: Last issue, Michael discussed the various options of landscape lighting systems. In this issue, he describes different types of lighting effects and techniques.

spread, however, if these are used up against the foundation of a house, they tend to create a “V” effect with a bright spot down low that widens and dims as it goes up. Some people don’t like that look.

Have you been thinking of adding landscape lights to your house and yard but aren’t sure what to light and how to do it? This month, I’m going to discuss some of the lighting fixture options and ways to use them.

A wall wash fixture is a nice way to illuminate a wall without the “V” look. The wall wash look is generally achieved by a softer, more diffuse light. They really have no specific beam spread. The light sort of just goes everywhere on the front side of One of the most common fixtures the fixture. I really like using is the “accent” or spot” light. these to light up tree canopies. These are great at highlighting If you have a smaller tree with a specific features. You can get them in a range of brightness as well as different beam spreads such wide open canopy like a dogwood, it makes the whole tree glow at as 10⁰, 35⁰, or 60⁰. The narrow spread is great for lighting up front night. A “can” light has the same effect. These have a bulb about porch pillars, whereas the wider spreads are better for lighting up 4” in diameter that is recessed into a plastic canister. If you use trees or the face of the house. Even with the widest available beam these, always opt for the glass lens cover to keep the mulch and leaves out.

Rain gardens, butterfly gardens, no-mow wildflower meadows. Many homeowners are looking to low-maintenance native plants and cultivars to improve their home landscapes. Come see why Forrest Keeling’s Garden Center is one of the Midwest’s most unique garden centers. We offer a broad selection of native perennials, trees and shrubs as well as improved selections and cultivars. Come out and see us, it’s worth it.

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Path lights are another common fixture. They can be used to guide the way along a sidewalk or driveway. Resist the urge to use lots of these in pairs however. You’ll end up with something looking like an airport runway. I like to alternate from side to side instead. And if you have corners or curves along the path, placing fixtures on the inside corner works best. If these are being used along a driveway, I like to use fixtures with a “pierced” shade that lets little bits of light out through it. They not only shine down onto the drive, but it makes the fixtures easier to see so people don’t run over them. If you’re looking for something a bit different than what everyone else has, there are options there, too. I recently installed some pool lighting that does double duty. The fixtures are about five foot tall and function like a path light except that the extra height creates an

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SEPTEMBER 2015

especially large lighted area under them. And they double as Tiki lights that can be filled with citronella and lit to keep the mosquitos away. Depending on the fixtures chosen for the rest of the landscape, another nice touch is to add post and/or sconce lights that are a cosmetic match for the rest of your lights. It gives a nice finished look. If you do much nighttime BBQ grilling, consider adding some designated task lighting for this purpose. And if you have dormers on the house, think about adding some gutter-mounted fixtures to light them up. It will give more interest to the whole look of the house front by getting some of the lights up at a higher level. There really isn’t any one right or wrong way to light up the landscape, although some things do work better than others. Be creative. Try temporarily setting up some lights at night and move them around a bit to see how the look of things changes before you make a final decision.

Michael McVey has 10 years of experience in the Irrigation and Landscape Lighting industry. He currently works for Horstmann Brothers Landscaping in Overland, MO. You can reach him at michael.mcvey@ horstmannbrothers.com or 314-432-0880.

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The Gateway Gardener®

Rose Problems: Symptoms and Solutions By Diane Brueckman

his was a very hard year for roses. First they suffered through some very ill-timed freezes namely the very early freeze last November and the late cold spell in February. The roses were left with a lot more winter damage than usual. What started as a “normal” spring turned into a monsoon season with the wettest June in many years. Roses like to be well watered but if your beds were not very well drained they may have suffered from wet feet; a condition roses do not appreciate. Spring brought ideal conditions for powdery mildew. Daytime temperatures were high but the nights cooled off and the humidity was high. The next challenge was blackspot, temperatures were high with very high humidity, ideal weather for blackspot.

deficiency the yellowing starts in the main veins of the leaf; with iron deficiency the veins remain green. If oxygen deficiency is a common occurrence in your garden, you may want to move your roses or raise the bed to improve the drainage.

Powdery mildew and botrytis are spring and fall diseases. Both of these fungal diseases occur when temperatures are dropping and humidity is high. Powdery mildew starts out as somewhat twisted and distorted leaves (usually young leaves), eventually turning white as the fungal growth matures. Infection will also appear on tender new shoots as well as the flower buds. Older leaves are not usually affected. I usually trim off all infected leaves and stems and destroy them. During periods of high disease pressure wash Stress from excessive heat and lack of moisture can cause leaf off the plants with a hose early in the day. Mildew spores will not scorch (marginal necrosis). Soluble salts (chemical fertilizers) that germinate in standing water. Botrytis is the reason you will find are fine when moisture levels are sufficient can cause marginal flower buds covered with mold. It is important that you remove leaf scorch when temperatures are high and leaf moisture is low. and destroy the infected blooms and stems. Botrytis can also cause Remember roses need at least 1 inch of water a week, and when cankers on stems especially if there is a wound on the stem. One temperatures are in the 90s, up to 4 inches is needed. However, simple precaution you can take is to be sure, when deadheading, to make the stubs no more than ¼ in. long when conditions are right your beds must drain well so your roses do not have wet feet. Excessive moisture in the soil can cause an oxygen deficiency, for the disease. Both of these diseases will respond to fungicide which can result in the foliage appearing chlorotic. The difference treatments. between chlorosis caused by a lack of oxygen and that caused If all the diseases aren’t bad enough the “bugs” were having a field by iron deficiency is where the yellowing occurs. In oxygen day. One of the first bugs that got to me was the leafhopper. The adult is tiny less than ½ a centimeter and grey green. This pest feeds on the undersides of rose leaves by sucking out the fluids thereby removing the chlorophyll. The leaves are stippled with grey areas where the chlorophyll is removed. The females deposit their eggs into rose canes leaving the canes susceptible to invasion of other pathogens. Using a contact insecticide on leafhoppers is tricky because they are very fast and can dodge the spray if startled. A systemic is a better choice if spraying them. Many pests overwinter on canes so it is important that you remove

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The Gateway Gardener®

SEPTEMBER 2015

any canes that show signs of cankers when you prep your roses for winter. Another “bug” that visited my garden in huge numbers was the cicada. At first I did not think they were doing any damage except to dive bomb my poor husband as he was mowing the lawn but I later discovered that the female was laying her eggs in my rose canes, blueberry bushes and most of my trees. The resulting damage was dead canes and branches where the females cut the bark as they deposited their eggs. Very annoying.

Diane Brueckman is a retired rosarian with Missouri Botanical Garden, and currently owns Rosey Acres in Baldwin, Illinois. You can reach her at (618) 7853011 or droseyacres@egyptian.net.

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SEPTEMBER 2015

The Gateway Gardener®

My Favorite Tree by Connie Alwood

y granddaughter has favorite everythings: ice cream, colors, animals, what have you. I like them all: every color

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on my ark--mosquitos, provide more autumn color termites and all obnoxious than any of the others. critters included. All of the above trees could So why should I have a compete for the Miss Tree favorite tree? I’ve planted America award, but they a good many trees couldn’t compare with in my lifetime—oaks, my favorite: a dead hard maples, willows, conifers, maple. A tree that I killed. not intentionally. ornamentals, shades and Well fruit bearers. I like them all. I made the mistake of As I look out my window planting a shade garden admiring the two seventy under it. In doing so, I killed year old, one hundred foot too many of the small hairtall sycamores, I wonder like roots that provide water how come they aren’t my and nutrients to the tree. It favorites, especially in took a couple of years for winter when Pine Siskins the tree to die and while and American Goldfinches it did so, I felt guiltier than gather in the tops to eat when I had stepped on my their fruit. The two river cat’s tail. birches that I planted So why is this bare ugly please me to no end. Ah! remnant my favorite? Those four serviceberries Insects! As any viewer provide food for thrashers, of CSI knows, detectives catbirds, robins, waxwings can tell within minutes of and several other birds, when a victim has been as do the dogwoods, killed by the insects that mulberries and wild cherry arrive soon after. Insects trees. I’ve even left out the are soon followed by those three black gums, which who prey upon them. In

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The Gateway Gardener®

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the case of dead trees, it’s birds. And the birds that come represent the house builders for many of our cavity nesting birds: the woodpeckers. Woodpeckers provide the holes that many native cavity nesting birds need, including Tree Swallows, Great Crested Flycatchers, and our Missouri State bird, the Eastern Bluebird, to name just a few. After several years, I stopped mourning the beautiful maple whose green leaves turned to orange in the fall. Except

for the Pileated, all six other woodpeckers that can be seen in our area, including the Yellow-bellied Sapsucker, have visited that tree, either drilling a hole or gleaning the tree for insects. For now the dead tree still stands forty feet tall. Fungi has gathered on one side. It will fall some year and I will have to saw it up into smaller pieces, but even then, I’ll take it down to my woods and let nature dispose of it; for after all a healthy forest has many dead trees.

Connie Alwood is a Master Gardener and co-author of Birds of the St. Louis Area: Where and When to Find Them.

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The Cornucopia Corner Preserving Your Harvest By Mara Higdon

dunk into a bowl of cool water. Pack the zip lock bag till nearly full and seal after letting out as much air as possible. Using a permanent marker, write down the date and quantity. Many items preserve best in sauce form, such as tomato sauce, applesauce, fruit purees. For these items, a few additional steps are needed. Once the wash step is complete, cut into pieces and throw them into a stainless steel soup pot. Bring to a boil while stirring to ensure the bottom does not scorch. The point here is to cook down the pulp and reduce the amount of water in the fruit. After 10 minutes, using a sieve, strain the skins and seeds out or leave them in. Usually, tomato skins are removed as they can affect the taste later on. This leaves you with a more concentrated reduction. Return onemoregranolamom.com

here are many ways to preserve your summer harvest and extend your enjoyment of self-grown produce into the fall and winter. You might regret giving all your produce away come winter when you have a hankering for locally grown produce. Some of the easiest and most economical ways are freezing and drying. You will need freezer-safe ziplock bags or airtight Tupperware to store your produce. Start with fresh vegetables or fruit that are at the peak of ripeness. Make sure they are free of dirt by washing with cold water, air drying, and if necessary cut to a manageable size. To stop the ripening process and kill any bacteria, produce may need to be blanched or dipped in boiling water for a brief 1-2 minutes. Remove the vegetable from the boiling water and

Jt’s Fresh Ideas Marinated toMato Salad

Ingredients ³∕� cups white wine vinegar 2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar ½ tsp salt ½ cup red onion, coarsely chopped 2 Tbsp chopped chives 2 Tbsp lemon juice ¼ tsp ground white pepper 2 Tbsp olive oil 2 lbs cherry tomatoes, halved (variety) 2 yellow bell peppers, quartered & sliced 2 orange bell peppers, quartered & sliced Salt & Pepper to taste

Preparation Instructions Combine the marinade in a canning jar – mix the vinegars, salt, onion, chives, lemon juice, pepper and olive oil. Seal the canning jar with a lid, and shake until well combined. Combine the tomatoes, peppers and onion in a large bowl. Pour the marinade over the vegetables and toss to coat.

Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve chilled. Recipe adapted from Yummly.com

Please share some of your favorite recipes with us. You can e-mail us at: info@gatewaygardener.com.

Enjoy all the seasonal veggies from our local growers while there’s still time!

The Gateway Gardener®

SEPTEMBER 2015

Tips for Growing, Buying and Cooking Fresh, Locally Sourced Food for Your Table the strained contents to the pot and cook for another 30 minutes. Let the sauce cool. Once cool, you can begin packing your ziplock bags. Again, pack the zip-lock bag with the sauce and gently squeeze out the air. Write the date and the quantity on the bag and freeze.

September Harvest

Here are some fruits and veggies you might find in the garden or at your local farmers’ market this month:

Vegetables Beans Beets Broccoli Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Cucumbers Eggplant Garlic Greens Herbs Horseradish Kohlrabi Lettuce Okra Onions Peas Peppers Popcorn Potatoes Pumpkins

Drying can easily be done in your oven or in a dehydrator. Dehydrators range in price from $45 - $100. As with freezing, you will need zip-locks or airtight Tupperware for storage. Wash and dry your produce and then slice thinly, cutting 1/8 – ¼ inch slices. The thickness of what you are drying is key and thinner is better. For berries, you can leave them whole, but it might take a bit longer to dehydrate. If you want to spice it up a bit, sprinkle your favorite spices on the sliced veggies: salt and pepper, turmeric, cinnamon, cayenne powder, garlic powder, and curry powder are a few recommendations. Lay your slices on the dehydrator, spacing them evenly. Stack the dehydrator trays and turn it on. Follow the instructions that came with your dehydrator. Typically it will take 8-12 hours to dry. If using your oven, set it to 130-200°. Lay your washed, dried off, and sliced veggies or whole berries on parchment lined cookie trays, spacing them evenly. Put in the oven for 4-6 hours or till the slices look dry and wrinkly.

Mara Higdon is the Program Director at Gateway Greening, Inc. They focus on community development through gardening throughout the St. Louis area. You can reach her at (314) 588-9600 x22 or by email at mara@gatewaygreening.org.

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