THE GAUCHO // buenos aires lifestyle mag // by Matias Farroni

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CONTENIDO

STAFF

-04Lunfardo lessons

Jose “red jaguar” Lucero Director / Cientist Artist / Samurai jose@thegauchomag.com

-05Argentinian cocktails

Mato Farroni Marketing / Art Director matias@thegauchomag.com

-06Literature

Quincy Long Jefa de Redacción/ Poeta

-07Mini Guia.

COLABORADORES Delfina Linares - photography Gonzalo Castro - photography Paola Di Lernia - editorial design

-08Rock culture -09Food recepy

AGRADECIMIENTOS Gracias a todos los que creyeron en THE GAUCHO y principalmente a los que no lo hicieron, porque nuestro motor funciona con mas potencia cuando nos dicen que no podremos lograr lo que nos proponemos. Gracias a nuestras familias por apoyarnos desde el comienzo. Gracias a nosotros mismos por creer en nosotros.

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Wine seccion

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Visual artists

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Did you know

PARA PUBLICITAR 54 11 4861-8665 jose@thegaucho.mag.com

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Hints

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IMPRIME The Gaucho

Graffiti history

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DOMICILIO LEGAL Gorriti 3748 - 2do D - Palermo - Bs As - Arg THE GAUCHO es una revista independiente trimestral de distribución gratuita. THE GAUCHO MAG es marca registrada. Queda terminantemente permitido hacer lo que quieras con la revista y , sobre todo, con tu vida. Propietarios Jose E. Lucero y Matías Farroni. Registro de DNDA en trámite. Fuck everything and become a pirate!

Skate places www.thegauchomag.com facebook.com/thegauchomag

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Tango

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Tango

EDITOR’S NOTE To get an idea of my life and travel style, you might want to imagine a blind man driving a forklift that’s missing a wheel: subtle and methodical. So I couldn’t be more grateful for the friends I’ve met while traveling in other countries. They’ve delicately opened so many doors that I would have slammed through, or worse yet, never known existed. These local guides undoubtedly saved me some headaches, and steered me toward a profound understanding of a place and its people. This is why we created The Gaucho: a sort of local friend to facilitate a more pleasurable and personal stay in Buenos Aires. Consider it payback for the many incredible hosts the staff has met on our journeys! We won’t tell you what to do or which path to follow, that you must discover on your own. But we will try to hand you some basic tools necessary in the beautiful and nourishing game of submerging yourself into a new culture. We are a group of young Argentines and North Americans in love with Buenos Aires’s unique culture, from its shattered sidewalks to that undefinable air, those romantic an chaotic details of our particular Latin-american city. We want the few pieces of knowledge we’ve acquired in our short lives to fly free, searching for fertile brows in which to tale root. And, why not, we hope a flower sprouts, a flower the color of the sky.

LUNFARDO BUENOS AIRES SLANG

Have you noticed that argentines are tough to understand, even after all those Spanish lessons? Have you heard about Lunfardo yet? Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a quick summary to awake your curiosity! Hopefully it will help you communicate and get as much information about Argentina as possible.

Lunfardo is the term used to refer to Argentine jargon or slang. There are many hypothesis about the origin of

Lunfardo although the revelent belief is that it was developed by prisoners so that their jailers would not understand them. Many claim it was thus the language of robbers and crooks and the very word Lunfardo meant thief back in the day. The great majority of the words are of Italian origin, although some come from indigenous, french, african, and creole languages. Lunfardo became central to the lyrics of tango and argentine poetry of the early twentieth century, and thus its use spread from the lower-middle classes throughout society. Today it can be heard in almost every home in Argentina, primarily in Buenos Aires since thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s where it was developed. Lunfardo represents the largest portion of everyday slang, but there is another type call VESRE (or reverse); the Gaucho recomends that you look into this type of slang, although we will expand on its use in later editions. 10 / THE GAUCHO

Here we’ve compiled a list of a few common Lunfardo words, so you can see what this dialect is all about! Afanar: v. to steal, to rob; to over charge; to win by a large difference. Boludo/a: n. literally one with large testicles; a fool, idiot; used casually among friends, “che boludo” could be anything from ‘you idiot!’ to ‘hey buddy’ depending on the context of the situation. hacerse el boludo: v. to play dumb, to act as if you don’t know any better. una boludez: n. any matter easy to solve, something that can be done by any boludo. boludazo, boludon, boludote: n. someone who is to old to behave like they do; a big boludo (big idiot). boludear: v. to pass the time, hang out, to do nothing. Bondi: n. the bus; a mess “es un bondi, hay un bondi, mucho bondi” (it’s a mess, there’s a mess, very messy). Che: Hey! Chamuyero: n. a smooth talker, a bullshitter. Macanudo/a: n. [antiquated] someone agreeable, a friendly person; “sounds good” positive response to a

Useful Phrases

A las chapas: lit. to the plates/metal sheet; to go very quickly. Cara rota: lit. broken face; a shameless person. Calavera no chilla: lit: skull doesn’t squawk; you get what you deserve, you made your bed now lay in it. Faltan cinco para el peso: lit. five missing for the weight; to come up short. 11 / THE GAUCHO

COCTAILS

FERNET Fernet is a bitter alcohol made from a base of distilled grape spirits and a mixture of herbs and spices. The recipe was developed by the genius apothecary Bernadino Branca (to whom all Argentines should have an altar), whose wonderful philosophy regarding work was NOBARE SERBANDO or INNOVATE CONSERVING. The name Fernet comes from his partner and friend, the Swede Dr. Fernet (sweet name, right?). Thus from these two inn ovators we get the most important brand, Fernet Branca. The quality of the fernet depends on the quantity of herbs used in the recipe, but the process of maceration (or aging) is also an important factor. In Fernet Branca, herbs from all over the world are used and age in oak barrels for twelve months. Fernet came to Argentina thanks to the often mentioned Italian immigrants who arrived here in many waves, and who brought with them this (then) stomach remedy used for indigestion and stomach pains. In 1941, thanks to strong demand, Fernet is developed on Argentine soil for the first time. It is unknown when exactly the alcohol was first mixed with cola, but common belief is that this brilliant combination arose in the 1980’s, when mixed drinks became popular: surely someone from Cordoba thought it up.

Fernet with coca-cola is like a religion here, so careful not to insult the drink. Doing so could be seen like attacking Maradona or Peron, saying that dulce de leche and Tango are really Uruguayan, or that Chileans are in any way better than Argentines: it’s sure death.

The proper way to make Fernet A long glass or soda bottle cut in the middle (not the most elegant way to drink it, but you’ll see quite a few Argies who use this type of glass) 3 parts fernet 3-4 cubes of ice 7 parts Coca Cola First place the Fernet and ice into the glass, then fill with Coca Cola at a distance. You will notice a lovely foam rising, so careful not to pour to quickly.

A tattoo of Fernet Branca!

NOTE_ it is said that no one likes Fernet the first time they try it, but are often won over the second time. So be like Lincoln, try try again. 13 / THE GAUCHO

COCTAILS

GRAPPA Grappa is a distillation of grape pomace (aka the skin, pulp, seeds and stems) aged in oak casks. Many sources claim the beverage was born in Tuscany around 400 years ago, but since it’s an aguardiente (moonshine, or a strong liqueur made of whatever available, in this case the waste products of wine production) it’s difficult to make a claim as to its true origin. Some sources claim it goes back as long as the thirteenth century! Like our dear friend Fernet, it was introduced into Argentina thanks to those famous Italian migrants who drank grappa as a digestivo at the culmination of dinner time. We, of course, Argentized it! It’s popularity proliferated here in the beginning of the 20th century, when it was often drunk in the bars of the lower class. With time, the production process improved and quality control augmented, so grappa became a fine and respectable aperitif.

Grappa Candolini Bianca, one of the oldest brands of Italian grappa, is produced by a distillation of a careful selection of grapes, respecting Italian tradition in its elaboration. The spirit has satisfied the most demanding of palates since 1898. Recognized world-wide for its distinctive flavor and that oval shaped bottle who promises a complete product, delicate and pleasurable.

CITRUS Here we present a few ways to enjoy a Grappa Candolini drink A long drink glass place ice on portion of Grappa Candolini Bianca. Decorate with half a slice and twist of pink grapefruit

14 / THE GAUCHO

Try adding a shot of Grappa Candolini to your coffee!

Of course, you can go traditional and sip the pure Grappa in a small liqueur glass, adding a grain of coffee. Don’t forget to share with your friends who enjoy a fine liquor!

If you need to travel

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LITERATURE

Borges Jorge Luis

Copy: Quincy Long

orge Luis Borges (1899-1986) is probably Argentina's most famous author. He is particularly famous for his short stories, although he also composed poetry, books, translations and was numerous speeches. An astute intellectual, Borges's work is prolific and spans traditional Argentine themes to surrealist narratives that challenge traditional linear stories. Because of a hereditary condition, Borges began losing his sight around the age of thirty and was completely blind in his mid fifties. He continued lecturing and writing in spite of his condition, and in fact it was a major influence on his later works. In the poem “The Gifts” he writes, “I drudge aimlessly about the limits / of this enormous library of my blindness... I who have always imagined Paradise / To be a sort of library.” Indeed, common themes in his writing include libraries, mirrors, labyrinths, and himself (the author) as a character in the work. Because of this playful spirit, we absolutely recommend that you pick up a copy of anything of is you can get your hands on, do the mental work of decoding Borges, and enjoy! I personally recommend that you begin with his short piece The Library of Babel to get a sense of Borges’s surrealist imagery and intellectual perspective. Noticed that there’s a street in Palermo bearing this author’s name? It was renamed for him since he was born on this street (then Serrano). It is also interesting that Jorge Luis Borges crosses with the street Soler, since Joaquin Soler Serrano was a Spanish journalist who conducted two excellent interviews with Borges.

For more information on the author, check out the Centro Cultural Borges downtown or the Fundación Internacional Jorge Luis Borges in Recoleta. And happy reading!

Centro Cultural Borges Viamonte 525 Mon-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 12pm-9pm

www.ccborges.org.ar Tel: 5555-5449. Fee (some exhibits only) Students: $15 Retirees: $10 Children under 12: Free

How wonderfully defined and neat, a map of

Buenos Aires! The neighborhoods heavy with memories, those with loaded names: la Recoleta, el Once, Palermo, Villa Alvear, Villa Urquiza; the neighborhoods familiar because of a friendship or ramble: Saavedra, Núñez, the southern Patricios; the neighborhoods where I have never been, which fantasy fills with colorful towers, girlfriends, and little fellows who shuffle along dancing. From Textos recobrados 1919-1929

Fundación Internacional

Jorge Luis Borges Anchorea 1660. Mon-Fri 4pm-9pm. www.fundacionborges.com Tel: 4822-8340

Agradecemos fervientemente a la Sra. María Kodama ,presidente de la Fundación Jorge Luis Borges, por brindarnos su apoyo.

HEY MAN! Do you know why are blonde jokes so short? So men can remember!

The UN distributed this questionnaire: “What is your opinion on how to reduce food shortage to the rest of the world? An european replied: “What is shortage?” An african replied: “What is food?” A chinese replied: “What is opinion?” and finally an american replied: “What is the rest of the world?”

An argentine asks a spaniard, ‘Amigo, do you know which country is closest to heaven? ‘Argentina, I suppose,’ retorts the angry Spaniard. ‘No, amigo’, says the Argentine. ‘It’s Uruguay!’

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Buenos places you must visit in

aires MINI GUIDE

The staff here at The Gaucho worked hard to test out and hand pick every one of the places in this guide. We ate, we danced, we chilled, we drank (some of us too much), we laughed, we kissed, we touched, ONLY for the sake of recommending the best that Buenos Aires has to offer to all you gringo adventurers out there. Enjoy!

THE GAUCHO

BUENOS AIRES MINI GUIDE

A NICE MEAL

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadía. Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, realmente disfrutes de tu estadía. Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

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THE GAUCHO

BUENOS AIRES MINI GUIDE

GET SOME REST

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

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Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

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THE GAUCHO

BUENOS AIRES MINI GUIDE

TAKE A

TOUR

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

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Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

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THE GAUCHO

BUENOS AIRES MINI GUIDE

PARTY ON NIGHTLIFE

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

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Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

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www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

THE GAUCHO

BUENOS AIRES MINI GUIDE

THE

WINE

PEOPLE

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

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THE GAUCHO

BUENOS AIRES MINI GUIDE

GET INKED UP

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

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Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

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THE GAUCHO

BUENOS AIRES MINI GUIDE

WATERING HOLES

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

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Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

THE GAUCHO

BUENOS AIRES MINI GUIDE

GET SOME CULTURE

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

Hecho por y para viajeros. Un lugar cálido, acogedor y divertido pensado para que realmente disfrutes de tu estadí

Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

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Barrio: San Telmo Dirección: Av. San Juan 1271 Teléfono: (5411) 4304-1824 www.hostelgardenhouse.com.ar

ROCK

MUSIC

CULTURE For

us Argentines, especially the young ones (and I don’t mean young only by age), rock music is essential to our culture and our lives, probably due to the fact that the censureship caused by so many dictatorships generates a hunger to express rebelion and anti-conformity mixed with love, violence, and laughter. I can’t think of a better way to express these sensations other than through music,, and particularly through rock and its relatives. As our (almost) nonexistant modesty is known worldwide, so is our Argentine rock, and it’s considered some of the best rock of Latin America (ask any Latino if you don’t believe it). This column is dedicated to introducing some of the bands you’ll hear almost all Argentines in any meeting or bar or in the street or the subway or the bus or.... well I think you get the idea. In this edition of The Gaucho, we introduce a band who’ll undoubtedly be gentle to your ears, but bellow we also mention more bands, from heavy to light, so you can look further into our beloved Rock Nacional.

10 / THE GAUCHO

LOS FABULOSOS CADILLACS One of the most important bands in Argentine history, Los Fabulosos Cadilacs (or The Fabulous Cadillacs) was born in Buenos Aires around 1983, along with our much yearned for democracy, and separated in 2002, performing a few times after their break-up. The band mixes rock, raggae, ska, dub, jazz, and even tango in their repretoir. They have shared the stage with such greats as the Sex Pistols, Cypress Hill, and the Red Hot Chilli Peppers and collaborated with the Cuban Queen of salsa Celia Cruz for the song Vasos Vacios, and with Debbie Harry of Blondi on a lovely remake of Strawberry Fields written by John Lennon.

ps o c d n a ens r i s f o s nce “Air os Aires e l o i v s Buen ns and burn It buros Aires” Buen

COPY_QUINCY LONG

CHECK THIS SONGS C.J Demasiada presión Mal Bicho Arde Buenos Aires Strawberry Fields (Beatles cover) Desapariciones (Ruben Blades cover) Yo te avisé Los condenaditos Numero 2 en tu lista Vos sabés

Yo no me sentaría en tu mesa Gallo rojo (to Che Guevara) Siguiendo la luna Vasos vacios Surfer Calavera Las venas abieta de américa latina La vida

HOW TO DO A:

TRADITIONAL FOOD

Milanesa Napolitana -Meat (depends on the quantity you wish to make, see below for details) -3 eggs -1 can of tomato sauce -Ham slices -Sliced mozzarella -Parmesan -Bread crumbs -Garlic (to taste, try three cloves) -Parsley -Basil -Salt and pepper

Milanesas can be made from various cuts of meat, but we believe the ideal to be nalga (beef round) or bola de lomo (sirloin tip). Ask the butcher to cut the meat into milanesa pieces (thin and flat). To tenderize the meat, lay the filet of meat across a cutting board, then hit with a meat tenderizer. You can also use the handle of a large knife for this process. The filet should start to stretch while the meat becomes more tender. Be sure to take out any little nerves you see as this makes the meat tough to chew once itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cooked. Mince the garlic and chop the parsley. In a large bowl, mix the garlic, parsley, eggs, salt and pepper. Let the milanesas marinate for a moment in this mixture, making sure they are completely covered. Place the bread crumbs on a plate or in a wide Tupperware. Lift the milanesas one by one, making sure to bring as much garlic and parsley as possible, and place them in the bread crumbs. Cover with the crumbs, and press them into the milanesa. Flip the filet and repeat. Once your filets are breaded, heat an ample amount of oil in a pan. Place the milanesas one at a time (or more, depending on the size) and let them fry, bathing them with oil using a spoon. Fry for about X minutes. Place the fried filet on paper towels, absorbing the extra oil. Now place the milanesas in an large baking tray and cover with a thin layer of tomato sauce, salt and pepper, some garlic and parsley and/or basil. On top of that place a slice of ham and them mozzarella and Parmesan. Lastly, a slice of tomato or two. Cook in a medium oven until the cheese melts. Enjoy!

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over a good glass of

He told me the theme was wine like a poem could be written on assignment, stapled together, last name in the upper right hand corner. I sit sitting, sitting. A bottle of Malbec: on sale fifteen pesos that’s $3.33 dollars by official exchange rates and $2.20 by the black market dollar exchange rate and people will carbon date this poem by wine’s inflation, if it ever spills out correctly, as assigned.

They’ll promptly plop ice cubes, or worse, Coca-cola into their glasses as he parts his borgoña lips and decants the night’s specials.

Meanwhile, I’m dry and glaring at the robust bottle, the luring rise in its underbelly. I rifle through kitchen drawers for screws or leather strings or pairing knives sharp enough to plunge into Finca La Elegida, The Chosen Oak Malbec plastic cork, but find none and end up forcing a screwdriver, face a shriveling perched ahead of me, awaiting it’s raisin, splattered in red, walls tie-dyed. accolades. I remember he’d taken the corkscrew And so this wine poem spread to the temp job where he’s dreaming through the pages, spilled by mistake this poem, his escape from fermented inching its way across line after blue line, service jobs. my tannic undertones dispelling, He is undoubtedly pulling cork soaking slowly into the barrels of a crisp at a vintage table who’ll leave him magazine who’d gallop my way to a five percent, maybe more tonight Mendoza Thoroughbred Tour, woozy because he’s still new, full bodied, with sun between the vines, serving nothing skilled at spinning the Syrah so a but metaphors down the loping dirt roads. drop doesn’t spread through the lady’s white dinner.

Send us your tale and win some wine to keep inspired! Entries should be between 200-300 words or up to 50 lines of poetry. We accept short stories, humor, poetry, prose, or anything else you feel like sharing, just as long as it has something to do with that beautiful nectar: wine. Good luck!

wine

If you like films this is a MUST

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Xul Solar

THE LATIN AMERICAN AVANT GARDE

Xul Solar (1887-1963) was an important Agentine artist and esoteric thinker with a whimsical and vibrant perspective. He was the one, with Emilio Pettoruti, who broght the First Eupopean Vanguards to America. His pieces combine a geometrical play evocative of his training as an architect, an assortment of spirital symbology ranging from the zodiac to Christian and Egyptian idols to numerology, and a skill for portraying movement within his favorite medium, watercolor. If you visit the Fundación Pan Klub and Xul Solar Museum, you‘ll learn that Xul‘s intent was to reform the universe for the better: music, mathematics, language even the human body where all mutable in his eyes. 36 / THE GAUCHO MAG 36 / THE GAUCHO MAG

One of the languages he developed, Neo Criollo, combines Spanish, Portugues, and indigenous languages of the continent: he developed Neo Criollo to promote Latin American unity. Also on display are modified musical instruments and a set of the delightful Pan-Chess: the play was intented to cross into other dimentions, the figures representing musical notes, signs of the zodiac and letters of the Pan Lingua, Xul‘s universal language of the future. The rules of play remain mysterious since he never wrote them and played only with close friends, one of who was none other than Jorge Luis Borges.

DRAGO . 1927 . «If there is no country for me, all of me, I will have to create a world within my own thoughts»

Xul Solar

Xul Solar . Project for a facade of de city . 1954 . Acuarela . 25,5 x 36,5 cm

ul Solar

Museo X

amues-Fri 12 1T . 2 1 2 1 Laprida . Tel: 482 12am-7pm nts and t a S . m p 8 de e: $15. Stu s: Free. 5378. Fe ay d rs u h $5. T Retirees:

olar.org.ar

www.xuls

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Little

STATUE of

LIBERTY

Liberty

That beautiful woman spotted by so many immigrants coming to the United States on the Hudson river, that symbol of hope and prosperity whom so many continue to visit to this day, the famous Statue of Liberty has many little cousins all over the world (that is, sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not the only of her kind!). One of these cousins is Argentine! She is tucked away in the park Barrancas de Belgrano on the street Pampa and 11 de septiembre (or September 11th, total coincidence) right here in Buenos Aires. The statue is a simple cast iron lady, smaller than her US relative, and almost hidden from view. To appreciate her, you have to enter the plaza (stepping on the grass is prohibited, so take the foot path) and there you can read the inscription (the address of the workshop where the statue was created): Le Val Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Osne-8 Rue VoltaireParis. This miniature of one of the most famous statues of our time was purchased by the government of the city of Buenos Aires. It is actually a bit older than the giant North American work, inagurated October 28, 1886, as it was inagurated the third of October of the same year. Of course, Argentines will tell you that their Lady Liberty is the original and yours a mere

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HELPFUL HOURS The hour in Buenos Aires is expressed in military time. Argentina does not participate in daylight savings time. Banks and Money Exchanges: MondayFriday 10am-3pm. ATMs function 24 hours a day. Stores and businesses: Mondy-Friday 9am8pm, Saturdays stores open later (around 11am) and stay open all afternoon. In malls, shops stay open until 10pm, including weekends and some holidays. Cafes, bars, bakeries, pizzerias: open between 7 and 9am daily, stay open until 2am. Restaurants: Lunch is served after 12:30pm, dinner after 8pm.

HINTS

TAX FREE You may recuperate the IVA tax you’ve paid if you’ve purchased national products with a value about $70 pesos in businesses who participate in the “Global Refund” program. The store will have a Tax Free Shopping Logo displayed: ask for el cheque de reintegro and make sure they give you a proper bill, a ticket fiscal. In customs upon leaving the country, show your receipts and you will receive a refund for the 21% sales tax.

TELEPHONES

TIPPING Tip is generally not included in your receipt. It is custom to leave 10% tip in cafes and restaurants. Note that tip cannot be left on credit cards, so be sure to care some cash with you. Taxi drivers do not expect any tip except coins to round the fare. 40 / THE GAUCHO MAG

Though public telephones are prominent, it is much more convenient to pop into a communication center, called a locutorio or telecentro. Here you can conduct local, nation, and international calls and use fax, photocopies, or internet. Some are open 24hours a day. To call internationally from Buenos Aires, dial 00 + country code + area code+ number.

To call Argentina from abroad, the country code is 54 and the Buenos Aires area code is 11. Sometimes it is necessary to dial a 9 after the 54.

SECURITY Buenos Aires is a safe city, but like in any major metropolis, one should talk precautions. You may walk around alone at any hour of the night, as people stay awake quite late, even as a woman, as long as you avoid certain neighborhoods like La Boca and neighborhoods off the tourist path. Try sticking to large avenues and walk with confidence. Tourists defense: if you suffer any mistreatment, abuse or discrimination, the Defensoria del Turista exists to protect you. Avenida Pedro de Mendoza 1835, open Monday to Sunday, 10am to 6pm. 4302-7816 Tourist‘s Police: this force attends to tourists who’ve been victims of crime, robbery, theft, losses, and disagreements. Helpful with paperwork for embassies or consulates. Interpreters available. Av. Corrientes 436. 0800-999-5000 or 43465748

Check all bills given to you!

SAFTY TIPS:

1. Be attentive when paying taxi drivers and try to pay in small bills. It is not uncommon that they will slip you a false $100 bill, claiming it’s the one you gave them. 2. Never leave bags or purses unattended in restaurants. Even in a nice neighborhood you should keep your belongings in sight or, better yet, attached to your person. 3. Be aware of bags, purses, and wallets in busy places like on Florida street or in the subway. Carry your backpack in front of you. 4. There have been cases of “mustard robbery”. The culprit ‘accidentally’ spills something on you, then offers to help clean it up. Amid all this confusion, they steal wallets and belongings. Be careful!

How to tell if your bill is real! 1- Watermark: a portrait of the ex-president on the bill can be made out when you hold it up to the light. Underneath you should be able to make out the figure’s initials. 2- Optical ink: The number 50 or 100 should alternate green and blue depending on the angle. 3- Security thread: Should made of clearly silver-like dashes. When held to the line, the dashes turn into a solid line. It should have the denomination of the bill, though it may be hard to make out. 4- The paper: You can tell immediately by the texture. The numbers should be slightly rough and raised. Fake bills feel like printed paper while real ones feel softer, like fabric. Check all bills given to you! If you have to pay a taxi driver, check the bill obviously in front of him before handing him the bill: that way he can’t change you a fakie and blame it on you!

only one kiss. .. he’s just bein g frien dly They’re more like wine, and beer people

SOCIAL HINTS: 1. Argentinians kiss each other on the cheek in greeting, only one kiss on the left cheek. This practice is custom among all sectors of the population, so don’t be freaked out, dudes, if another guy greets you this way: he’s just being friendly. 2. Punctuality isn’t as valued here as it might be in your culture. So if someone invites you to a party or an event at 10pm, they’ll be shocked if you show up on the dot. Save yourself some discomfort, and show up fashionably (thirty minutes) late. This doesn’t apply, however, for bus journeys or business meetings! 3. In the States, we have a custom to start drinking around 6 (cocktail hour, right?) and end up in bed by midnight. Not the case here. Since many clubs don’t get going until 2am, you might want to pace yourself. Also, Argentines aren’t so accustomed to drinking hard alcohol: they’re more like wine, fernet, and beer people, so hold the phone on getting plastered, wasted, etc. since you’ll likely be frowned upon. 4. Although the portenos are incredibly expressive when they speak (seriously, watch their hands), the decibel level of North American voices is actually 2.79 gigawatts higher. Scientific studies aside, pay attention to the volume level when you’re in restaurants and public places, especially when speaking English, to avoid attracting any unwanted attention to yourself. THE GAUCHO MAG / 41

STREET ART

n i i t i f f graBuenos

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from illegal to everywhere! Graffiti was probably introduced in Argentina by the first waves of European migrants around the late 1800´s. Fleeing countries in war or crisis, many arrived with anarchist and extremist political stances and painted the walls of their new host city in order to be heard. By 1904, the papers were calling graffiti “free press”. During this time period the art form known as “filetado porteño” was gaining popularity, and the two expressions became linked, 42 / THE GAUCHO MAG

mostly due to sharing the same urban canvas. Around the 1950´s, people began experimenting with pitch and tar as a new medium for painting their messages. To do so, they diluted the pitch with kerosene and prepped the wall with lime: the resulting text would therefore stand out on a white background. Aerosol paints finally entered the country in 1969, opening up a whole new world of options for artists to publicly express their creativity along with their political messages. However,

when the military dictatorship took hold of Argentina in the 70´s, very few dared graffiti in the streets since doing so could have terrible consequences. When the country was finally open to democracy again, many graffiti forms proliferated. They were especially influenced by the arrival of hip-hop art and culture in the 1990´s, which incorporated a once foreign aesthetic. At the same time, other forms like tagging, messages, and stylized

typography evolved. And of course, many murals can now be found on whole walls, often authorized to one or more artists. Don’t miss the opportunity to check out Buenos Aires’s unique street art! It is truly the colorful backdrop that livens the porteño life! THE GAUCHO MAG / 43

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SKATEBOARDING LOCATION: BELGRANO

BUENOS A SKATE PL IRES AZA

Back in the 1980’s, skateboarding arrived from the far reaches of California all the way down here to Argentina. It’s since evolved from a curiosity into a popular urban sport in our country, especially in the last five years. Unlike in many cities in the US where blocks have been put on rails and curbs to dissuade skaters, many different public skate parks and venues have been popping up in Argentina as popularity grows. Thanks to this support, the level of skating in Argentina gets better daily, and there’s even some great athletes emerging in the streets. In Buenos Aires, the classic shoe brand Converse and the city government have signed a contract to create two new big parks in the neighborhoods of Belgrano and Mataderos. Designed by and constructed under the supervision of pro skaters, both parks will be cast in smoothed cement and promise to offer a high level of diversion for seasoned skaters and newbies alike. If you’re traveling in BA and love to skate, don’t miss out on our special brand of skate culture! Or if you just want to watch some sweet ollies, get out there and check out the new park, at the intersection of Figuero Alcorta and Juramento, then stroll the relaxed Belgrano neighborhood. It’s close to the River Plate Soccer stadium and Chinatown! THIS IS A FREE PUBLIC SPOT. IT’S LOCATED ON AVENIDA FIGUERO ALCORTA

CULTURE

love

tango

THE VOICE OF THE ARRAVAL

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Perhaps before coming to Argentina, your knowledge of the country consisted of Evita, some fine wines, and tango. Maybe you knew of the dance from movie references, Jim Carey in a green mask with a rose in his mouth, etc. But now that you‘re in the southern homeland of this passionate dance, here‘s a little information about the lifestyle you don‘t even realize is saturating the air you are breathing. Tango is a traditional rioplatense (from the region of the river Rio de la Plata, aka Argentina and Uruguay) music. It is a fushion of rhythms brought together by the many Africans, Gauchos, colonial Hispanos, Indigenous peoples, Italians, Jews, Germans, Andalucians, Cubans and more peoples who have populated these lands. The first wispers of tango can be traced to about 1865 but wasn‘t refined into the mix we recognize today for another 40 years. For example, the accordian, an instrument so essential to what we think of as the charactaristic tango sound, was introduced in the beginnings of the 1900s by German immigrants. From its beginnings, the music was repudiated by the church and seen as a great threat to the state; the upper classes believed the music to be an affront to morality and purity. As a consecuence, the music and dance were banned and thus confined to places where illegal things are practiced: poor suburbs of the city, the ports, brothels, bars, and jails. The lyrics of tango reflect this isolation; the lyrics mix Spanish and Lunfardo, the voice of the arrabal (neighborhood), although the first tango songs were pretty much all instumental. After a while, the music and dance were adopted by the upper classes of Argentina and later exported to the rest of the world. In the tango world, the neighborhood is the muse, a place of belonging that one should not abandon, betray, or forget. Also, there is a state of permanent insatisfation reflected through stories

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you‘ll see that nothing is love of lovers‘ betrayal and the passage of time. Many have noted that the tango is a spirital relative of the blues. Enrique Santos Dicepolo, one of the grand poets of tango, defined it as “a sad thought that can be danced.” On a personal note, I always teased my father as a kid, saying that tango was the music of the CORNUDOS, or

those who‘ve been cheated on by their significant other. As I matured, I realized that in order to understand and feel tango you have to have had your heart broken at least once. And perhaps be cheated on :). Here‘s some lyrics and artists we recommend. Enjoy, but don‘t cry too much!

Artists:

Anibal Troilo (1914-1935), Homero Manzi (1907-1951), Carlos Gardel (1890-1935), Enrique Santos Discepolo (1901-1951), Tita Merello (1904-2003).

Songs:

El Choclo (1947) - The Corn Cob Lyrics: Enrique Santos Discépolo Music: Ángel Villoldo.

“Al evocarte, tango querido, “Evoking you, dear tango, siento que tiemblan las baldosas de un bailongo I feel the tiles of the bailongo (place where tango is danced) floor shake y oigo el rezongo de mi pasado...” and I hear my past growl...”

Yira, Yira (1930) - Lunfardo for Gira, or Turn/Revolve Lyrics: Enrique Santos Discépolo Sung by Carlos Gardel

“Verás que todo el mentira, “You‘ll see that everything‘s a lie, verás que nada es amor, you‘ll see that nothing is love, que al mundo nada le importa... that nothing matters to the world: ¡Yira!... ¡Yira!... It revolves! It revolves! Aunque te quiebre la vida, Even if your life breaks, aunque te muerda un dolor, even if a hurt bites you, no esperes nunca una ayuda,

don‘t ever expect any help, ni una mano, ni un favor. “ nor a hand, nor a favor.”

(Perhaps a bit pessamistic, but certainly reflective of a porteno belief!) ~

Tango, of course, isn‘t only for men and it isn‘t always sad! Here‘s a song sung by the tango pioneer(ess), Tita Merello, one of the first women to break into the world of Tango. Se dice de mí (1943) - They say about me A milonga Music: Francisco Canaro Lyrics: Ivo Pelay Sung by Tita Merello

Si charlo con Luis, con Pedro o con Juan, If I chat with Luis, with Pedro or Juan, hablando de mi los hombres están. they are talking about me, these men. Critican si ya, la línea perdí, They critizice if I’ve already lost my waistline, se fijan si voy, si vengo o si fui. they check if I‘m going, coming, or already left. THE GAUCHO MAG / 48

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