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Rural Retreats Manchester City Breaks Morocco How Far Can You Go?
/ SUMMER 2009 Q SHORT U I CBREAKS K B SUPPLEMENT R E A K S· SPRING CLO S E T O H O M E · U K · S P A I N · M O R O C C O · P O R TWEEKENDER U G A L·
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La Herriza
Going Away Has Never Been Easier Opened in 2000 and set in 25 acres of natural woodland, Hacienda La Herriza reminds one of an Andalusian Manor House.
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a Herriza is perfectly situated for exploring the region with its Natural Parks and charming white villages like Gaucin where you can enjoy hiking, mountain biking or horse riding, or merely escape the strains and stresses of modern living. Whilst still being close to all the amenities of the Costa del Sol and Gibraltar, at more than 600 metres above sea level, you are far enough from the hustle and bustle of the mass tourist sites to enjoy a truly relaxing stay surrounded by natural beauty and clean, fresh air. The hotel offers 17 spacious and charmingly equipped Andalusian Cottages and Spanish Cortijo Suites with 1 or 2 double bedrooms, a fully fitted bathroom and a separate drawing room to make you feel at home and relaxed in one of Andalusia’s most romantic settings. The Restaurant-Grill “El Hacho”, named after the main peak surrounding La Herriza, is famous for serving the finest Medi-
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terranean and regional food, incorporating Haute Cuisine elements and complemented by a first-rate selection of Spanish and International wines. The restaurant’s chefs each specialising in their own particular style. If there is anything you would particularly like, or you have special dietary needs, contact them before you arrive and they’ll be happy to accommodate you. The dedicated wedding department is able to coordinate, assist and advise with all the services required for the event, including accommodation, menus, DJ, photographer, hairdresser, transport, live music entertainment, outdoor activities, ceremony, lorist and much more. One of the experienced Wedding Planners at the hotel can provide as much or as little assistance as is needed. La Herriza lies on the edge of the last natural forest in Europe, “Parque Natural de Los Alcornocales”, is perfectly situated for exploring Andalucia and enjoying swimming, tennis, clay pigeon
shooting, fishing, hot air ballooning, and hunting. Alternatively you may prefer to simply enjoy reading a good book whilst soaking in the natu-
ral silence of the woods, attend a Yoga class, take a relaxing massage or sip your favourite drink whilst watching the sunset. s
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VOLUME 1 SPRING / SUMMER 2009
The Weekender Supplement is published in conjunction with The Gibraltar Magazine bi-annually in May and September each year.
Published by Guide Line Promotions Limited, PO Box 561, PMB 6377, Gibraltar. Tel: +350 200 77748 Fax: +350 200 77748 Email: gibmag@gibraltar.gi www.thegibraltarmagazine.com
Editor: Andrea Morton Art: Jonathan Bull
Copyright © 2009 by Guide Line Promotions Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent of Guide Line Promotions Limited.
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THE MAGIC OF
MOROCCO WEEKENDER ·
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You’re Going
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WHERE For the Weekend
The brief was a simple one. Come up with some suggestions for the furthest you can travel from Gibraltar by air for a weekend away.
By Brian T. Richards
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ew travellers, with the exception of the suitably anoraked enthusiast, want to spend any longer than necessary sitting in airports. On that basis, the destination would have to be reached by just one flight; no en route changes permitted! By the same token, the term ‘weekend’ can be open to a degree of interpretation designed to both get the most out of valuable time and compensate for the vagaries of airline schedules. For the purpose of this exercise, the weekend has therefore been ‘maximised’ to potentially run from Thursday to Monday! After all, there is still Tuesday and Wednesday to allow for time in the office! From Gibraltar’s own North Front airport the answer to this question is a very simple and a very brief one! With the loss of Iberia’s relatively short-lived service to Madrid in September, travellers from Gibraltar are left with a choice of which only Henry Ford would be proud. You can go to any destination from Gib as long as it is in the UK! Setting aside any notion of a weekend in London via Gatwick or Luton, go north and opt for Manchester. Monarch Airlines re-introduced flights to the city in September last year and the service now operates three times a week. From the real world of Coronation Street via Old Trafford to the slightly un · WEEKENDER
real world of cosmopolitan Canal Street, be in no doubt that Manchester is a great place for a short break. Leaving Gibraltar at 11.40 on Friday morning, you’ll be in Manchester just before 2pm with a whole three nights ahead of you. The only fly in the ointment is the relative brevity of the third night as your flight back home is scheduled to leave Manchester at 06.55. There is one consolation, arriving in Gib at 10.55 gives you the chance to go to work on Monday afternoon and use the leave for another trip away. Without being able to think ‘outside the box’ or indeed ‘The Rock,’ this article would now be already over, cut off in its prime! Other more imaginative answers lie over 100km up the coast at Málaga airport. This gateway and the places to which you can fly prove the cliché that low-cost airlines have opened up Europe to an extent previously unheard of. Boarding a Boeing 737 of Blue Air at 11.05 on Thursday morning will see you arriving blinking and somewhat disbelieving in Bucharest at just before 4pm that afternoon. The capital of Rumania, a country now part of the European Union, is a fascinating blend of the old and new with a rich cultural heritage. Your return flight does not leave until 2.30pm on Sunday allowing you plenty of time to explore. As an alternative,
Thursday morning will see you arriving blinking and somewhat disbelieving in Bucharest SPRING / SUMMER 2009 · SHORT BREAKS SUPPLEMENT
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leaving Málaga with Finnair just after noon on (a different) Thursday will see you heading north to Helsinki, arriving just in time for dinner. Finland’s capital and most populous city is built for the sightseer and the sauna enthusiast! With a flight time of four and half hours, Helsinki is a world away from the Costa Del Sol but you can still be back for lunch on Sunday. The airlines providing the flights for my third city break are a testament to recent successful de-regulation among European carriers. They reflect an internationalism of which the UN would be proud. In September 2008, the high profile Danish low-cost airline Sterling Airways, fell victim to the Icelandic banking crisis and ceased operations. A number of carriers from different countries across the EU have spotted the opportunities and have launched flights on former Sterling routes. Leaving Málaga with Norwegian Air Shuttle on Friday morning at 11.50am will have you in Copenhagen just before 4pm. After a weekend of exploring this compact picturesque city, with obligatory stops at the Tivoli Gardens and the Little Mermaid, the
The “Big Apple” can be reached in just under 9 hours after leaving Malaga on Delta Airlines’ non-stop flight Dutch airline Transavia can have you back on the Costa at 7.10pm on Sunday evening. The outright winner of this competition is a flight that currently operates four times a week but which is proving so popular
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that an additional service will be added later this year. In June 2008, Delta Airlines launched a nonstop flight to New York JFK. The ‘Big Apple’ can be reached just under nine hours after leaving Málaga. Because of the prevailing
winds, it is even quicker coming back! For those tired of getting to the US via Madrid, London or Paris, this direct link is a welcome relief. Delta uses Boeing 757 aircraft with 158 seats in Economy and 16 in BusinessElite class. I don’t need to wax lyrical about the attractions of the USA’s iconic metropolis, suffice to say that it is indeed possible to go stateside for the weekend. Leaving Málaga at 12.40 on Thursday will have see you landing in JFK at 3.25pm. After a fun packed three night break, you’ll head home at 7.25pm on Sunday arriving back at just after 9.30am on Monday. If you accept all the usual caveats that airline schedules are subject to change and that indeed nothing is set in stone, it remains true to say that getting a long way away from Gibraltar and the Costa Del Sol has never been easier. Indeed, heading away for the weekend has rarely been more fun! s Brian T Richards is a freelance air travel consultant and aviation photographer offering an advice and research service covering all aspects of the airline business. www.briantrichards.com email info@briantrichards.com WEEKENDER ·
WEEKENDER photography courtesy Marketing Manchester
Few places can match Manchester’s incredible retail experience. Anything is possible. From browsing white label records and vintage clothing in the Northern Quarter, to personalised shops and designer labels at Harvey Nichols. You can wander around the monthly farmers’ market, or have a manicure in Triangle, and everything in between. Perfect for those shopaholics.
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hopping is not the only thing going on in Manchester. A buzzing night life, a whole host of attractions and a wide selection of festivals and events which you might like to take note of when you’re working out when you really want to be there. The first festival coming up from the 9th to 25th May is Queer Up North (www.queerupnorth.com). Venues across Greater Manchester host the international queer arts festival, an annual festival of events – mainly performance – that are all in some way provocative, a bit edgy, or experimental. This overlaps somewhat with Futuresonic (www.futuresonic.com) which runs from 14th-16th May.
As the name suggests, the event is about future trends in modern culture: newly commissioned artwork; world-renowned music from art-punk to hip hop and upand-coming artists. Eurocultured (www.eurocultured.com) is an ongoing event throughout May. This growing annual festival brings together
the very best of European bands, DJs and graffiti artists. Live performances, plenty of stalls and on-site art turn this event into a colourful celebration of new and established talents. Manchester has a reputation for being at the forefront of innovation, being the city where the UK’s first repertory theatre was
established in 1908. The 24:7 Theatre Festival which runs between the 20th-26th July ties in with the city’s rich theatrical history and celebrates new and original work in a variety of non-theatre venues. There’s more information at www.247TheatreFestival.co.uk July also sees the Manchester Jazz Festival. The programme is
The Manchester Jazz Festival in July champions new ideas from young musicians and showcases exciting collaborations which are unique to the city. · WEEKENDER
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just as cutting-edge as the city’s attitude and the organisers of this annual event are committed to championing new ideas from young musicians and showcasing exciting commissions and collaborations that are unique to Manchester. Check out www.manchesterjazz.com for more. The Manchester International Festival (www.manchesterinternationalfestival.com) from 2nd to 19th July is the world’s first festival of original new work and special events from across the spectrum of performing arts, music, visual arts and popular culture. The biennial festival is returning to Manchester in 2009, with a new programme of world premieres and major artists. Manchester Pride from 21st31st August is the annual Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender (LGBT) festival that is held over the August bank holiday weekend. Manchester Pride has traditionally been a fund raiser for the LGBT and AIDS/HIV communities and is the only Pride event in the UK that has consistently done so. Recently voted Best Event, the ten day festival is full of festivities, events and activities, games, markets, pride parade and the final Big Weekend brings along and survival from a wide range of headlining acts. Look up www. prisoners experiencing very different conditions, from the Isle of manchesterpride.com Man to Japan. If you’re an art lover though, THEATRE From 1st April through to the you might find the Angels of Anbeginning of June, the smash hit archy exhibition at the ManchesQueen and Ben Elton musical We ter Art Gallery an interesting stop Will Rock You will be staged at the off. Running from 26th SeptemPalace Theatre. Lord of the Dance, ber through to the new year, it’s a which been a phenomenal success once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to speaks to all at the Opera House see outstanding works by artists between 22nd to 27th September including Frida Khalo, Dorothea if you’re thinking that far ahead. Tanning, Leonora Carrington and The Opera’s universal appeal has Lee Miller, from public and primade the show one of the modern vate collections around the globe. day wonders of the world, a myth This major new exhibition is the to a living legend. More infor- first of its kind and explores what mation on both these shows are made these artists radically difavailable from www.livenationthe- ferent to their male counterparts. www.manchestergalleries.org atres.co.uk. Apart from events which are time limited, Manchester still has MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The Prisoners of War exhibi- a lot to offer. With a vibrant night tion which runs from May right life in the Northern Quarter, the through the year at the Imperial creative hub of the city and other War Museum tells the extraordi- areas such as Canal Street, Deansnary stories of Prisoners of War gate Locks, or the old Manchester during the Second World War, printing factory (converted into featuring British prisoners in Eu- one of the UK’s leading urban enrope and the Far East, and civilian tertainment centres) which hosts internees. Encounter the powerful a range of bars and night clubs as stories of endurance, friendship well as an IMAX 3D cinema and
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FACT FILE Founded in 1653 the Chetham’s Library is the oldest public library in the English speaking world. Canal Mania’ began in 1761 when The Bridgewater Canal became the first man-made waterway in Britain. In Manchester today the existing network of canals are now home to uber chic apartments, restaurants and bars. The tranquil canal-side culture of Castlefield is a beautiful experience. In 1803 John Dalton developed his atomic theory in the city. The first atom was split by Ernest Rutherford at Manchester University in 1919. Inspired by the sermons of Rev. William Cowherd the vegetarian movement began in 1809 in Salford Bible Christian Church. The Altrincham-based Vegetarian Society holds events all year round. Manchester is now a culinary city with a burgeoning restaurant scene offering a multitude of cuisines. The Duke of Wellington opened the world’s first true railway in 1830. The success of the Liverpool to Manchester railway began the railway revolution. Founded in 1858 Manchester’s Hallé is Britain’s longest established symphony orchestra. The first general meeting of the Trades Union Congress was held in 1868 in the Mechanics Institute, Princess Street.
various restaurants. You’ll find there’s plenty out there to entertain yourself into the early hours. After a more sober visit? Try the Cornerhouse on Oxford Street, an international centre for contemporary visual arts and film. It covers three floors of galleries and screens with the best of independent cinema. You can soak in the masterpiece of Victorian Gothic architecture of the John Rylands Library or browse one of the country’s finest art collections at the Manchester Art Gallery. Alternatively, take a look at the Manchester Museum with four floors of displays spread through 15 galleries including the world of nature, Egyptology and collections of fossils and minerals. The other museum worth mention is that of Science and Industry on Liverpool Road. Based on the site of the oldest passenger railway station in the world, the huge 7.5 acre site has five historic buildings packed with fascinating exhibitions, hands-on galleries and historic working machinery. With free transport, discount shopping and special offers, Manchester is an attractive option for a quick break away for those who enjoy the city scene. Look out for the Metroshuttle, the free city centre bus linking shopping areas, hotels and train stations and don’t forget most of the museums and galleries are free entry. s
In 1888 the world’s first professional football league was set up at the Royal Hotel, Piccadilly. Manchester is now home to four premiership football teams including Manchester United and Manchester City Football Clubs. Trafford Park was the first purpose built industrial estate in 1896. In 1903 Mancunian Emmeline Pankhurst founded the Women’s Social and Political Union, later know as the Suffragettes. Emmeline dedicated her life to the campaign for women’s votes. The Pankhurst Centre displays the work and struggle of the women suffragettes. The museum is previously the home of Emmeline Pankhurst. It was in 1904 that Charles Rolls and Henry Royce first met in Manchester’s city centre Midland Hotel. Two years later the Rolls-Royce Ltd was formed. The hotel was also allegedly Hitler’s preference for a British Nazi headquarters. In 1948 at Manchester University Professors Tom Kilburn and Fred Williams developed the first computer. Nicknamed ‘The Baby’ it was the first computer to have a stored programme and memory. It has made the computer what it is today. A replica can be seen at the Museum of Science and Industry in Manchester. In 1954 a series of tunnels was constructed under the city to withstand the effects of an atomic bomb. Manchester’s many steam powered cotton mills instigated its growth to become the world’s first industrial city. Didsbury’s ABC studios was home to Bob Dylan’s first live UK show in 1964.
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City
Breaks just a drive away About the same size as Great Britain, it’s no surprise that there are some great destinations close to hand in Andalucia. Apart from the multitude of rural destinations, there are more than a few cities steeped in history and culture just waiting to be explored and re-discovered.
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he capital of Andalucia, Seville, could well be top of your list for a short break if you’re a city lover. The cultural capital of Spain has seen struggles and changes throughout the centuries. Each leaving their mark in art, architecture and monuments giving the city a character of its own. With one of the largest number of churches and cathedrals in the country, Seville boasts a religious architecture second to none and will make you visit more than worth while — although you may want to think twice about visiting during Easter week, when the traditional processions quite literally take over the streets and each procession can take up to eight hours to pass any one spot. But Seville is not just architecture. With a healthy heritage in the culinary line, tapas bars and restaurants abound. You’ll be spoilt for choice. Festivals, dancing and nightlife are also well developed traditions. With just a one week break after Easter to enable business to actually get some work done, the fair gets under way. But night life carries on throughout the year and is a popular destination for stag and hen nights. Traditional Irish pubs can be found alongside night clubs which open their doors from two in the afternoon, and you’ll find venues open through until ten in the morning if your body’s up to it. Taking the kids? The area built originally for the Expo in 1992 · WEEKENDER
has been transformed into the pleasure park “Isla Magica”. You can also look up the Acropolis water park and there are numerous other attractions such as New Park, Camelot Park or the Zoo in the Carmona district, to name just a few. Hungry? Casa Joaquin Marquez on Calle Felipe II is a favourite with the locals. Their whole menu comes well reccommended, but in particular try the Salmorejo or tuna. Between the various theatres located in both historical and modern locations you’ll be able
to sample classical and contemporary performances as well as jazz, rock, flamenco and classical music throughout the year. Check on-line at www.sevilla.org to find out what’s happening on the days you’re planning to visit. A little closer to Gibraltar you’ll find Jerez de la Frontera, renowned for its bodegas and stables — home of the famous Cartujana horses. For time immemorial, the horse, along with wine and flamenco has become one of the most emblematic symbols of the town. The
horse fair, from 10th to 17th May, apart from taking on the usual Andalucian Feria atmosphere, incorporates the towns equestrian traditions with a stunning participation by the Andalucian School of Equestrian Art — also a good stop if your visiting at a different time of year. The Jerez airport is a good point to jump to other cities throughout Spain, and over the past couple of years has been running regular flights to the UK too. Worth bearing in mind now the road from Los Barrios, known as “La Ruta del Torro” is complete, bringing Jerez as close a car drive as Malaga these days. As well as its cultural attractions, Jerez is home to one of the top racing circuits in Spain. The first track opened in 1985, and the first major event was the Spanish Formula 1 Grand Prix which was held in 1986. Although Formula 1 is not held in Jerez any more, it’s a favourite testing ground for the cars during the winter months and in 1987 the first Grand Prix for motorbikes was held. Since then more and more spectators have crowded to Jerez for the spectacle, making it a favoured stop for bikers. The Jerez GP will be taking place from 1st to 3rd May and bikers from across Spain and further afield will be heading to Jerez for the weekend — possibly not the best time for a touristic retreat as the traffic will be pretty heavy. If you want to sample real Andalucian culture, head to one of the
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many bars which offer good food, wine and flamenco shows, or Tablaos as they are locally known. A good example would be the Tablao del Bereber, which offers afternoon and evening shows accompanied by Andalucian cuisine. They’re open every evening except Sundays and are frequently fully booked, so you might like to check their web site for details on how to reserve a table www. tablaodelbereber.com. Another central location is La Taberna Flamenca on Angostillo de Santiago, 3 opposite the church of Santiago which holds shows Tuesdays to Saturdays every evening, and from May will be offering two shows a day, seven days a week, through to October. Again, due to their popularity it’s a good idea to reserve a table. More information at www.latabernaflamenca.com Cadiz has a very different feel. Very much a student town, there’s a solid divide between the old and new sections. Apart from the obvious appeal of the long, sandy beaches, lovers of fine architecture should jump at the chance to take in the city’s cathedral which was constructed between 1720 and 1838. Once inside you’ll find the magnificent tomb of Manuel de Falla, a famous Spanish composer along with a museum which
houses a variety of arts and treasures originating from the New World. The Cadiz museum is located in what was once a Franciscan convent along with another purpose built structure. With sections devoted to archaeology, fine arts and ethnology you’ll find 5th century BC Phoenician sarcophagi, headless Roman statues and rare
Phoenician jewellery. Other places of interest are the Oratorio of San Felipe on Calle San Jose and the Museo de Las Corts de Cadiz, the city’s main historical museum which gives a fascinating insight in the local history. If you’re looking for a bite to eat, take a stroll through the old town and sample menus from the mul-
titude of tapas bars in the area. El Aljibe on Calle Plocia number 25, comes well reccommended with good service and an extensive and tasty menu. For something a little more modern, you could try Balandro on Alameda Apodaca. They give great quality with creative ideas wich contrast nicely with the authenticity of Cadiz. s
The Jerez horse fair takes place between 10th and 17th May
info@hotelchancilleria.com
sabores@hotelchancilleria.com
C/Chancilleria 21 11403_Jerez de la Frontera_España Tel.:(+ 34) 956 301 038
Fax:(+ 34)956 329 717
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There’s nothing like getting away to the countryside for a breath of fresh air, and Gibraltar is privileged by its position close to natural parks, mountain ranges and white villages which are just a few minutes away.
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Retreats T
here are a hundred and one routes you can take to explore rural Andalucia. By far the best way is by car to keep your freedom to decide on a whim where to visit next. But if you don’t have transport all is not lost. Catch the bus from the Portillo in La Linea through to Algeciras and jump off at the bus station itself. You’ll find the train station just across the road. The Regional Express line runs at 7am, 12:15, 15:15 and 18:50 running up through the Sierra de Ronda. The train stops at most of the white villages on the way up and you’ll find it extremely economical at just over 7 euros each way. The only drawback is the last train back from Ronda leaves just
before 8pm so a day trip is nearly out of the question if you want a decent time to explore the area. Having said that, the train ride is incredible as it winds up through the hills with some amazing scenery along the way. Maybe take the Friday evening train up and head back on the Sunday evening. There are plenty of places to stay, and not just in Ronda itself. The Gaucin area is a beautiful area to explore, with fauna, flora and some excellent bird spotting too. If you are without the car you can just chill out in one of the white villages, or head up when there’s a specific event or festival taking place. Gaucin, for example, is holding a Flamenco festival on the 25th July entitled “Del Corcho” (of the cork) to coincide
with the local bark harvest which takes place a that time. The one day event includes acts from the best flamenco singers and guitarists from across Spain including El Cabrero, Carmen Linares, Niño Chaparro and many more. An excellent opportunity to taste the sounds of flamenco music. If you’re in the car, you can head up the hills towards Ronda taking the turn-off past Estacion de San Roque and on up past Jimena de la Frontera. Having taken in the breathtaking views of Gibraltar from the mountain side at Gaucin, you could bear east and up towards Cartajima for a really secluded break away from civilisation. Cartajima itself is extremely quiet and peaceful. As you head up the road you’ll pass sites where
a Roman hot spring was supposedly located. Turning into the village you’ll find yourself at the site of the old Castle where very little remains from when troops were stationed there after the 1568 uprisings. Probably the only feature of the town is the 16th century church Nuestra Señora del Rosario which occupies the highest point of the village, but you’re really here for the view. If you’re up for walking, heading out of Cartajima, you can follow the medieval cart track and re-discover the hills once the home of the bandoleros, or bandits in the 19th century. Horse riding excursions are an excellent option to discover more of the hills around Ronda and the
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You’ll find a range of riding excursions available from La Almuña
Alcornocales Nature Reserve. You can arange trips from La Almuña, where Karen has stables alongside the hotel. You can take anything from a one day to seven day trip if you’re feeling up to it. She can be contacted on (+34) 663 155547. Back closer to Gibraltar, you’ll find similar facilities available in the San Martin area, just inland from Sotogrande at Cortijo el Papudo, or you could take a different track (quite litterally) if you head up past Malaga to the Axaquia area, where the inland roads wind through cork oak and pine forrest and out into the rural areas famed for olives, almonds and honey production. Colmenar takes you a little off the beaten track and has a long history of honey production, infact the name itself is derived from “Colmena”, the Spanish for
Bee hive, and the name of one of the original farms on the land. Fountainhead is a mini hotel tucked away in this beautiful and unspoilt landscape, and this unique and special place offers privacy, great food and relaxation. The perfect oasis in which to unwind, to rejuvinate or just simply to get away from it all. The hotel has just four suites which are wonderfuly dramatic, each with their own living area, kitchenette, private terrace, plunge pool and mountian views. The combination of outstanding surroundings, a unique natural spa and award winning cooking make Fountainhead a very different weekend escape into the honey country. You’ll find more information on their site, www. fountainheadinspain.com or call them on (+34) 696 183309. s
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photography by Prem Mahtani
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THE MAGIC OF
MOROCCO With Africa under an hour away by ferry across the Strait, the opportunity to immerse yourself in Moroccan and Arabic culture beckons temptingly.
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ndoubtedly your first stop will be Tangier. An old, charming port on the northern coast which you can either stop to explore, or head on inland on one of various routes to the charm of Rif mountain villages or further south to the fast paced, cosmopolitan Casablanca. Tangier is well worth the stop though. The Petit Socco is great for coffee and an excellent starting point for finding your way around the old city. If you want to relax and soak in the sun, the beaches to the west stretch for miles and many have excellent spots for surfing and other sea sports too. Turn inland and up into the Rif mountains where you’ll come across the quaint mountain village of Chefchaouen. A calm and relaxing village in the Rif mountains, you’ll be instantly enchanted by the old, blue-rinsed architecture, a tradition which comes from the town’s former Jewish population. Wool garments, woven blankets, lamp shades and other native handicrafts are on offer along the straight wide streets. Dotted throughout the old medina you’ll discover wood workers engrossed
in their craft or bakers firing their stone ovens. For a more in-depth history, visit the museum in the Kasbah where you’ll see collections and artifacts which bring the diverse Moroccan history to life. The Berbers of Chefchaouen have a distinctive dress too. Men will wear thick, woollen, earthtoned djellabas to keep them warm through the long winters in high altitudes, whilst the women wear distinctive colourful straw hats and ribbons round their waste. Chaouen, as it is kown, is a photographer’s paradise, but also a nature lover’s dream come true. Take a turn out of the town into the Rif mountains and discover the wildlife, walks and incredible views. Volubulis and Meknes are the next logical stops heading south. Volubulis is one of the oldest Roman ruins still remaining relatively intact in Morocco, with arches which frame the fertile farmland and incredibly well preserved mosaics make this an obligatory stop if you’re on the road. Meknes was once called the Versailles of Morocco and its royal palace fills a considerable
You’ll be instantly enchanted by the old, blue-rinsed architecture, a tradition which comes from the town’s former Jewish population. 12 · WEEKENDER
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FACT FILE Officially the Kingdom of Morocco. The capital is Rabat, even though Casablanca is the largest city. Covering 447,000 square kilometres, Morocco’s official language is Arabic although French is commonly used. You’ll find you can get by in English and in many areas, such as Casablanca, Spanish can be useful too. TIME: GMT with no summer time change. (1 or 2 hours behind Gibraltar) Visa and Entry Requirements You will need a passport valid for at least 6 months. You’ll have to fill a custom-form given out free of charge upon entering and leaving the country. No visa is required for E.U. citizens, for a stay not exceeding 3 months. For E.U. registered cars, the green card is valid in Morocco. If your insurance does not cover the country, you will have to take additional coverage. No vaccination is needed for travellers coming from Europe.
part of the old city. Erected during the tyrannical rule of Sultan Moulay Ismail in the 17th century, he had almost as great an interest in buildings as he did for killing his subjects but never succeeded in making the town into a great imperial city. It’s worth half a day to a day to check out Meknes before heading south towards Casablanca — the most cosmopolitan city in Morocco with a unique atmosphere, hustle and bustle, wide boulevards and mixture of modern and traditional architecture which brings the real Morocco to surface. Casa, as it is known by most, is home of the Hassan II Mosque, built in 1989 for the 60th anniversary of King Hassan II, it was designed by the French architect
Michel Pinseau and decorated by the best craftsmen in Morocco. Its 200m minaret, which can be seen from over 20km away, makes the mosque the second largest religious building in the world — Mecca being the largest. Casablanca’s old town was mostly destroyed by the 1755 earthquake and was rebuilt under the reign of Sultan Sidi Mohamed Ben Aballah in 1770. Known as Ancienne Medina, its tiny streets and alleys are full of shops — perfect for testing your bargaining skills. Just along from the el-Hank lighthouse you’ll find the Boulevard de la Corniche with beaches, swimming pools, cafes, hotels and restaurants. You’ll find an evening stroll a pleasant way to cool down and enjoy some great views of the
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mosque. If you’re really feeling adventurous and want to take in the extra travelling, you could head down to Marrakech, the gateway to the Sahara and the epicentre of Moroccan tourism. Once the hub of the Camel trains which came through the desert from the south, Marrakech can be great fun to explore with or without a guide. Most tourist attractions are within walking distance, and the tourist police are extremely helpful. The Koutoubia Mosque is the major attraction for its architectural splendour, although entry is forbidden for non-muslims. Other highlights include the three main museums based in the medina or the Djemaa el Fna square where there’s a carnival style atmosphere every day with musicians, snake charmers, fire eaters and dancers. You’ll find plenty of excursions which will take you south into the dunes. Camel treks, horse riding, four wheel drive and even parapenting if you fancy the thrill of adventure with some incredible scenery. The Dades Valley, to the east of Marrakech, also known as the Valley of the Roses, should be high on your agenda if you’re visiting the area. The season lasts from mid April to the end of May, where you’ll find the mass production of rose concrete from the thousands of rose petals brought to the plant at Khelaa des Mgouna. It takes around 350Kg of petals to make just 1 Kg of rose concrete and the Valley of the Roses produces up to 1 tonne each year which is exported to France to be processed into Rose Absolute. Africa is on your doorstep. s
CUISINE Heavily influenced by the Berber traditions, Moroccan cuisine also includes tastes from Turkish, Middle Eastern and Andalucian cuisine which was brought in by the Moriscos when they left Spain. Laced with spices, chicken is the most widely eaten meat and cuscous, pastilla, tajine and harira are the most popular dishes. You can’t talk about Moroccan food without mentioning their popular tea made with fresh mint leaves and hard cones or lumps of sugar. TRAVEL Ferries run from Algeciras, Tarifa and Gibraltar. Algeciras: Approximately every two hours from 7am to 7pm in both directions. Fast ferry: 30 mins Regular Ferry: 90 minutes Online booking in English at www.trasmediterranea.es Tarifa: Every two hours from 9am to 11pm both directions. Journey time 45 mins. Online booking in English at www. frs.es Gibraltar: One trip per week. Leaves Fridays 23.30 and returns Sundays at 20:00 from Tangier. Journey time 90 minutes. Tickets are available from Turner & Co, 67 Irish Town, Gibraltar. Tel: 200 78305. If you want to explore and be independent, take the car, although the public transport system is pretty reliable. You can contact the Compagnie de Transports Marocains (CTM) in Casablanca on +212 022 458080 or www.ctm. co.ma. Tramesa also have good links to the Spanish network (www.tramesa. ma) MONEY You shouldn’t have any problem finding ATMs which accept Visa, Mastercard. Electron, Maestro and other cards too. Using your card to purchase in shops and businesses often carries a 5% surcharge. Tipping and bargaining are all part of the cultural experience. Push hard in the Kasbahs to get the best deal and be aware that most services warrant a tip. Restaurants will expect between 5 and 10% tips.
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TRIED AND TESTED ... Marrakech
United Kingdom
20BEST OF THE
San Martin del Tesorillo
MANCHESTER
Didsbury House Hotel
Didsbury Park, Didsbury Village, Manchester, M20 5LJ Tel: +44 (0) 161 448 2200 Email: enquiries@didsburyhouse.co.uk www.didsburyhouse.co.uk
27 rooms (4 suites) - chic urban retreat in the fashionable village of Didsbury, well known for its buzzing restaurant and wine bar scene all within easy walking distance from the hotel, or a 15 minute taxi ride takes you straight to the bustling city centre (Manchester International Airport is a 10 minute drive door to door) - So Spa treatment room.
LONDON
22 Jermyn Street
22 Jermyn St St James’s London SW1Y 6HL Tel: +44 (0)20 7734 0750 Email: office@22jermyn.com www.22jermyn.com
Small luxury townhouse hotel located at St James’s in the West End, 75 yards from Picadilly Circus. 13 luxurious suites and 5 double rooms. Excellent service and knowledgable staff.
Portugal
Riyad El Cadi - Marrakech
Tipi Algarve
Portimão Algarve Tel: 00351 282 471535 www.tipialgarve.com
Fun - tipis, yurts & camping - Moroccan lounge life in the Algarve - ecoretreat at Monte Joao Afonso, a few minutes away from the bustling port town of Portimão in the foothills of Monchique - kids stay free! Spiritual healing, Chakra balancing, Massage, Reiki and Reflexology - canoeing, bird watching, horse riding etc - loads to do nearby. Pool. Guests can buy and pick organically grown vegetables on 2.5 hectares of land.
Vila Joya
Praia Da Gale 8201-902 Albufeira Tel: +351 289 591 795 Email: info@vilajoya.com www.vilajoya.com
87, Derb Moulay Abdelkader Dabachi, B.P 101,Médina,Marrakech. Tel. : +212 24378655 Email :riyadelcadi@iam.net.ma www.riyadelcadi.com
12 rooms/suites - terraces, equipped with tents and deckchairs, good food. Minutes from the bazaars, but quiet and tranquil.
Cortijo El Papudo
11340 San Martín del Tesorillo Tel: 00 34 952 854 018 Email: papudo@mercuryin.es www.andalucia.com/gardens/papudo
11 rooms - Restored cortijo/granary famed for beautiful garden and birdlife. Heated pool. Great place to unwind.
Chefchaouen
Riad Dar Hannan
c/Kiklan, 11 Bab Souk Chefchaouen Tel: +212 658 81 45 69 Email info@darhannan.com www.darhannan.com
Situated in the heart of the medina. guesthouse set out as a traditional Moroccan riad offering extremely affordable luxury.
Spain MALAGA
Award winning boutique hotel on the Portuguese coast of Albufeira. 21 rooms individually designs, spa, golf and good food.
The Beach House
Urb. El Chaparral CN. 340 km 203 29648 Mijas Costa Tel: 00 34 95 249 45 40 Email: info@beachhouse.nu www.beachhouse.nu
10 rooms - directly on the beach between Málaga and Marbella - swish decor, heated pool.
Morocco Tangiers
Algarve Cartajima, Ronda
The Town House
Hotel Los Castaños , El Minzah Hotel Vila Vita Parc Spa Hotel ***** Alporchinhos P-8400-450 Porches Tel: 00 351 282 310 100 Email: reservas@vilavitaparc.com www.vilavitahotels.com
91 rooms, 79 suites. 5 star luxury — golf, gourmet food at 8 seasonal restaurants! 14 · WEEKENDER
85 Rue De La Liberte Tel : +212 (39) 333.444 Email: reservation@elminzah.com www.elminzah.com
140 rooms. Built in 1930s by Lord Bute on the edge of the Kasbah. Great place for a couple nights in Tangier, and if you know where it is you can even walk to the ferry! Spa.
CALLE IGLESIA, 40, 29452 CARTAJIMA, (MALAGA), SPAIN Tel: 00 34 952180778 Mob: 00 34 696081354 Email: reservations@loscastanos.com www.loscastanos.com
6 rooms - intimate hotel in Cartajima, a small village near Ronda with rooms ranging from stylishly economic to pure luxury. A great escape!
Marbella Old Town C/Alderete 7 Plaza Tetuán 29600 Marbella Tel: 00 34 952 90 17 91 Email: info@townhouse.nu www.townhouse.nu
9 rooms - private intimate pensión in the old town, Marbella, close to Plaza de los Naranjos. Laid out as a private town house, all rooms are individually decorated on four floors.
SPRING / SUMMER 2009 · SHORT BREAKS SUPPLEMENT
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If you like the idea of any of the destinations mentioned, take a look at our tried and tested reccommendations for board and lodgings. Riogordo
Countryside finca just outside Prado del Rey, Cadiz with the choice of 20 cabins sleeping up to 5 people and 6 bedrooms sleeping up to 3. Excellent Spanish food from the restaurant which specialises in game. Just an hour’s drive from Gibraltar. El Bosque
Fountainhead
Partido del Rio el Terral, Riogordo, 29180 Malaga, Spain Tel: 00 34 696 18 33 09 Email: info@fountainheadinspain.com www.fountainheadinspain.com
Small relaxing rural retreat hotel and spa - rustic charm and luxurious glamour, award winning restaurant.
CADIZ
Hotel Argantonio
Calle Argantonio 3, 11004 Cádiz Tel: 00 34 956 211 640 Email: reservas@hotelargantonio.com www.hotelargantonio.com
Hotel Rural Las Truchas Avda. de la Diputacion, s/n El Bosque 11670 Cádiz Tel: 0034 956 71 60 61
24 rooms, pleasant basic hotel. Great to stop off overnight to walk beside the trout river to the neighbouring village where you can have great salmorejo and fresh trout for lunch.
JEREZ
15 rooms - Restored traditional town house with Moorish feel. Great central location for tapas bars and tourist attractions in old centre of Cádiz. Vejer
Hotel Chancilleria
C/Chancilleria 21. 11403 Jerez de la Frontera Tel: 00 34 956 301 038 www.hotelchancilleria.com
Eco-friendly hotel located in the heart of Jerez - combines tradition with contemporary design/technology and good food. Casa la Siesta
Los Parralejos, Vejer de la Frontera Tel: 00 34 699 619 430 Email: info@casalasiesta.com www.casalasiesta.com
SEVILLE
7 rooms - Restored luxury country boutique hotel just 5 minutes from Vejer de la Frontera. Great food and service. Prado del Rey
Petit Palace Santa Cruz **** Plus
C/ Muñoz y Pabón, 18 (Plaza Ramón Ybarra Llosent), 41004 Seville Tel: +34 954 221 032 Email: sac@hthoteles.com www.hthoteles.com
Cortijo Huerta Dorotea Tel: 0034 956 72 42 91 www.huertadorotea.com
46 rooms — Boutique hotel set in three-storey palace laid out in traditional style with central courtyard. Located on the edge of the Barrio de Santa Cruz.
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