The Glossary New Year 2022 by Neighbourhood Media

FA S H I O N | B E A U T Y | H E A LT H | W E L L N E S S

THE LONDON STYLE GUIDE C U LTU R E

DON’T-MISS EXHIBITIONS S T Y LE

CELESTIAL JEWELLERY B E AUT Y

AT-HOME TECH TR AVE L

LUXURY RETREATS FO O D & D R I N K

THE LATEST OPENINGS

Bright Future

Embracing London’s new beginnings

k o e o s r C y Jo E TH

SOUND OF 2022

ISSUE 16

NEW YEAR 2022

£5.00

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Th Y O U R SL IOX NT DE O N STYLE GUIDE E N

I S S U E

Arts & Culture

6 THE GLOSSARY EDIT

The season’s most joyous finds

9 AGENDA

London’s don’t-miss exhibitions

18 RAINBOW BRIGHTS

Artist Lakwena Maciver on bringing creativity and positivity to the city

22 IN THE FRAME

Chic new coffee table books for every home

24 JOY CROOKES

The singer-songwriter talks storytelling, Patti Smith and finding solace in music

Style

32 FASHION NOTES

Style updates and the season’s feel-good buys

34 BAY GARNETT

The Queen of Thrift shares her vintage secrets

Watches & Jewellery

40 WATCH & JEWELLERY NOTES

The latest launches and most covetable pieces

42 STAR GAZING

Celestial jewellery that will have you reaching for the sky

46 OCEAN WATCH

The luxury watch brands preserving the ocean

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: CARLOTA GUERRERO PHOTOGRAPHY ON LEFT: KATIE SILVESTER

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CONTENTS Beauty & Wellness 50 BEAUTY NOTES

The new cult products and trends to try

52 SAVING FACE

Alessandra Steinherr shares her winter skincare rules

56 SKIN DEEP

The at-home face and body tools that really work

58 HIGH NOTES

Fall in love with this season’s fragrances

63 A NEW FLAME

The new scented candles to cosy up with

64 HIT REFRESH

The capital’s latest beauty and wellness openings

Food & Drink

70 TASTING NOTES

The need-to-know buzzy new restaurants and bars across town

72 BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS

Hilary Armstrong reviews London’s most talkedabout openings

Travel

78 TRAVEL NOTES

New hotels and experiences across the globe

80 NATURAL HEALING

Renew and reset at the very best luxury wellness retreats around the world

Home & Interiors 88 DESIGN NOTES

Interior design ideas and inspiration

90 LOUISE ROE

The broadcaster and influencer welcomes The Glossary into her new London home

94 HOUSE STYLE

Louise Roe’s favourite interiors brands

Last Word

96 MY LONDON GLOSSARY

Mica Paris’s little black book of the capital

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Editor’s Letter

ho better to welcome in the new year with than our cover star Joy Crookes? The BritishIrish-Bangladeshi south Londoner is currently being lauded as the voice of a generation with a debut album Skin that is, indeed, a joy - a vibrant autobiographical body of work, its titular track written for “anyone who needs reassurance and hope.” The singer-songwriter talks to us about her heritage, music as therapy and why cooking with friends is one of life’s pleasures. In fact, there’s joyfulness to be found across the capital. You only need to look at East London-based artist Lakwena Maciver - whose rainbow-hued prayers and meditations adorn the city’s streets - and hear about her creative journey. From art to fashion, and the super stylist and self-confessed Queen of Thrift Bay Garnett, who has spent more than two decades blazing a trail for vintage fashion. She tells us how and why it all began - and shares her tips for secondhand shopping. While broadcaster and interiors influencer Louise Roe welcomes us into her new London home for a tour and reveals the design pieces she’s coveting from her favourite independent brands, as well as the story behind her new business. It can’t be a coincidence during these uneasy times, that this season’s jewellery collections look to the skies - after all, we’ve been seeking meaning and guidance from the stars for centuries. Sarah Royce-Greensill picks the celestial pieces that are out of this world. Elsewhere, Alessandra Steinherr looks to the future of beauty with her tried-and-tested edit of the best at-home tools for face and body, and we bring you the new luxury wellness retreats across the globe that promise to nourish the body and refocus the mind (as well as bring some much-needed Vitamin D). We hope you enjoy the issue.

Charlotte Adsett Adsett, Editorial Director

Ed i t or’s

cks

PURPLE Edit

LEFT TO RIGHT: OVEROSE Euphoriasme Candle, £46; ROGER VIVIER Crystal-Heel Mules, £1,150 PRADA EYEWEAR Gradient Sunglasses, £230; BEA BONGIASCA Heart Tendril Ring, £900 LEX POTT Twist Candle, £28; HUISHAN ZHANG Tulle Midi Skirt, £2,033 PRADA Sequin Mesh Tote, £1,400; NIKE Air Max Pre-Day Trainers, £119.95

THE GLOSSARY TEAM EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett charlotte@theglossarymagazine.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR: Harriet Cooper harriet@theglossarymagazine.com CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Luciana Bellini luciana@theglossarymagazine.com WATCH & JEWELLERY EDITOR: Ming Liu ming@theglossarymagazine.com BEAUTY DIRECTOR: Alessandra Steinherr RESTAURANT EDITOR: Hilary Armstrong INTERIORS EDITOR: Amy Moorea Wong SUB EDITOR: Samantha de Haas CONTRIBUTORS: Jess Kelham-Hohler, Lara Kilner, Olivia Lidbury, Sarah Royce-Greensill, Kieran Yates ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle ray@theglossarymagazine.com PRODUCTION MANAGER: George Willis production@theglossarymagazine.com FINANCE MANAGER: Amanda Clayton accounts@theglossarymagazine.com SUBSCRIPTIONS: subscriptions@theglossarymagazine.com EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editorial@theglossarymagazine.com Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited, 3rd Floor, 86-90 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NE © 2021 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission. The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to The Glossary magazine’s right to edit.

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M

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Objet D’Art

Louis Vuitton Capucines Bag, £6,250 The iconic Capucines bag gets a twist with artist Donna Huanca’s works handpainted onto white leather. louisvuitton.com

Skin Deep

Edit The

Dr Sebagh Youth Serum, £215 This potent, multi-tasking serum has the highest concentration of active ingredients in any skincare product on the market today and it really works to rehydrate, rejuvenate and firm stressed skin. drsebagh.com

Feel uplifted with this season’s most joyful finds

The Cheek Of It

Anissa Kermiche Vase, £90 Make a statement with this playful ‘Bottom of my Heart’ ceramic vase. net-a-porter.com

Date With Destiny

Foundrae Karma Float Earring, £1,115 Add instant karma to your jewellery game with the number eight representing the continual returning of energy. farfetch.com

Make waves

Alexander McQueen Resort 2022 Ruffles ripple through the new season, adding a romantic twist. alexandermcqueen.com

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Home Economics

Our Place Always Pan, £125 The non-toxic, non-stick cult US kitchen favourite that replaces eight pieces of cookware has finally launched here. fromourplace.co.uk

New Heights

D’Accori Belle Platforms, £795 The new shoe brand on the block D’Accori, is launching this February on Net-a-Porter. The disco revival starts here. net-a-porter.com

Rock Candy

Kendall Jenner makes a splash as the new face of Messika, the Parisian diamond jewellery house founded by Valérie Messika. messika.com

Powder Play

Hermès Poudre d’Orfevre, £75 A limited-edition illuminating powder designed by Pierre Hardy… chicness in a compact. selfridges.com

Work It

Dior x Technogym In need of fitness motivation? Look no further than the Dior Vibe fashion line and home gym collaboration with Technogym. dior.com

London Calling

Fragrance Du Bois London Spice, £285 This bright and zesty lemon and bergamot scent has just joined the niche fragrance house’s Fashion Capitals collection. fragrancedubois.com T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M

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A new hub for galleries in the heart of Mayfair, London Hosting pop-up exhibitions, events, performances and more

FRIEZE NO.9 CORK STREET

Free to visit and open all year round Explore in person at No.9 Cork Street and online on Frieze Viewing Room FRIEZE.COM/9CORKSTREET

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Wales Bonner Spring Summer 2015 Afrique. Photography: Dexter Lander

FASHIONING MASCULINITIES In Partnership With Gucci

VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM 19 March - 6 November 2022 In what promises to be a blockbuster show, Fashioning Masculinities celebrates the power, artistry and diversity of male attire and appearance. Myriad looks by designers and historical treasures have been collated – from pieces by Harris Reed, Wales Bonner (pictured) and outfits worn by Billy Porter to Renaissance paintings and classical sculptures – to trace how menswear has been fashioned and refashioned over the ages. vam.ac.uk

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W H A T ’S O N & W H E R E

B y

H A R R I E T

C O O P E R

SUPERBLUE

6 BURLINGTON GARDENS Vincent van Gogh (1853–1890), Self-Portrait with Dark Felt Hat, 1886-87, Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation)

Until Summer 2022

VAN GOGH SELF-PORTRAITS T H E C O U R TAU L D GA L L E R Y 3 February – 8 May 2022

The inaugural show at the newly refurbished Courtauld Gallery was always going to be sensational - and indeed it is. This is the first ever exhibition dedicated to Vincent van Gogh’s self-portraiture, with more than 15 paintings - many rarely, if ever, lent before - tracing the arc of Van Gogh’s self-representation during his short years as a painter. courtauld.ac.uk

Thomas Gainsborough, The Blue Boy, 1770 © courtesy of the Huntington Library, Art Museum, and Botanical Gardens, San Marino, California

Experiential art venture Superblue has come to London with the presentation of Silent Fall, a multisensory installation created for Burlington Gardens by artist duo A.A. Murakami. As the visitor walks through a seemingly endless forest, each tree produces hundreds of misty bubbles which, when burst, unlock aromas such as moss, rain and pine, serving as a metaphor for the fragility of nature. superblue.com

Gainsborough’s Blue Boy T H E N AT I O N A L GA L L E R Y 25 January - 15 May 2022

A century ago Thomas Gainsborough’s The Blue Boy was sold to an American tycoon amid a huge outcry, so much so that it was hung in the National Gallery for three weeks as a public farewell. One hundred years on, to the day, the painting temporarily returns to the cultural institution, giving viewers a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see this storied masterpiece. nationalgallery.org.uk

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Denzil Forrester Jah Shaka

Beatrix Potter, aged 15, with her dog, Spot, by Rupert Potter, c.1880–1. Linder Bequest. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London, courtesy Frederick Warne & Co Ltd. BELOW: Mrs Rabbit pouring tea for Peter while her children look on, 1902. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London, courtesy Frederick Warne & Co Ltd.

BEATRIX POTTER: DRAWN TO NATURE

VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM 12 February 2022 – 8 January 2023 The V&A has teamed up with the National Trust to present the first ever exhibition to tell the complete life story of one of our best loved children’s authors – Beatrix Potter. Playful and interactive, the displays of her personal objects, artworks from her most famous books and the sketches and stories that inspired them, all bring to life not just Beatrix Potter the storyteller, but also the natural scientist and conservationist. vam.ac.uk Above: The Tale of Jemima PuddleDuck artwork, 1908. Watercolour and ink on paper. © National Trust Images

Bloomberg New Contemporaries 2021 SOUTH LONDON GALLERY Until 20 February 2022 New Contemporaries has been supporting the next generation of artists since 1949, by giving visibility and recognition to emerging talent. This exhibition - returning to the Gallery for the fourth consecutive year - includes 75 artists selected through an open submission by renowned creatives including Hew Locke, Tai Shani and Michelle Williams Gamaker. newcontemporaries.org.uk ABOVE: Elsa James, Black Girl Essex; Here We Come, Look We Here, 2019; RIGHT: Tom Harker, Spectral Perennials, 2020.

WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR

N AT U R A L H I STO R Y MUSEUM Until 5 June 2022

View across Esthwaite Water, by Beatrix Potter, 21 November 1909. Linder Bequest. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London, courtesy Frederick Warne & Co Ltd.

More than 50,000 submissions from 95 countries are entered into the annual Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition, which is developed and produced by the Natural History Museum. This extraordinary exhibition showcases 100 of the most powerful images, each chosen for its originality, narrative technical excellence and ethical practice. A true insight into the magic and magnitude of nature. nhm.ac.uk/wpy

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Head to head by Stefano Unterthiner, Italy. Winner, Behaviour: Mammals

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Simone Fattal Finding a Way

LEFT: Portrait of Simone Fattal 2021 Image and Art Direction: Europium (Julia Andréone and Ghazaal Vojdani); RIGHT: Simone Fattal The Master 1998 Bronze. Photo: Fançois Doury. BELOW: Simone Fattal, Au Bord du Barada II, 2020 Etching © Galerie Lelong & Co Courtesy Simone Fattal

WHITECHAPEL GALLERY Until 15 May 2022 This is the first solo presentation in the UK of Lebanese-American artist Simone Fattal. Imagining the brick-lined Gallery 2 space as a gigantic kiln, Fattal has filled the space with ceramic figures, alongside elements of an ancient landscape including a Mesopotamian ziggurat temple, while etchings, drawn from the artist’s memories of Damascus, appear as maps or windows for the voyagers. whitechapelgallery.org FROM LEFT: Habitat Catalogue, 1971. © the Design Museum; Chequers platter designed by Terence Conran. Made by Midwinter Pottery Ltd., c.1957 © the Design Museum; Habitat bag. © the Design Museum

THE CONRA N EFFECT THE DESIGN MUSEUM Until 6 February 2022 In honour of its founder, Sir Terence Conran, to mark what would have been his 90th birthday, the Design Museum is staging a free display, The Conran Effect. The retrospective focuses on Conran’s extraordinary achievements as a retailer, entrepreneur, restaurateur and, above all, a designer whose ideas revolutionised our every day, changing the way we eat, shop and live today. designmuseum.org

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Neil Kenlock Black Panther School Bags, 1970, printed 2010 Tate Presented by Tate Members 2013 and forming part of Eric and Louise Franck London Collection © Courtesy of the Neil Kenlock Archive

Aubrey Williams, Shostakovich Symphony no.12, Opus 112 1981 © Aubrey Williams Estate

Horace Ové, Stokely Carmichael giving a Black Power speech at The Dialectics of Liberation Congress, Round House, London, 1967, 1967. Courtesy Horace Ové Archives © Horace Ové

Denzil Forrester Jah Shaka, 1983. Collection Shane Akeroyd, London © Denzil Forrester

Life Between Islands Caribbean-British Art 1950s-Now

Ingrid Pollard Oceans Apart, 1989 Tate Purchased 2013 © Ingrid Pollard

TAT E B R I TA I N Until 3 April 2022

This group exhibition celebrates the relationship between the Caribbean and Britain in art from the 1950s to the present day, looking at British art history in the 20th and 21st centuries from a Caribbean perspective. Paintings to photography, fashion to film, by the likes of Aubrey Williams, Claudette Johnson, Sonia Boyce, Claudette Johnson, Peter Doig and Grace Wales Bonner, are displayed in loosely chronological order, exploring different themes including the role of culture in decolonisation, the social and cultural significance of the home, the reclaiming of ancestral cultures and the sociopolitical struggles that Caribbean-British people face. Running alongside the exhibition, a free collection display Sixty Years: The Unfinished Conversation looks at diasporic identity and includes a number of significant works such as Chris Ofili’s No Woman, No Cry (1998). tate.org.uk

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LEFT: Paula Rego, Nursing, 2000, © Paula Rego. Courtesy the artist and Victoria Miro; BELOW: Paula Rego, Reading the Divine Tragedy by Dante, 2005. © Paula Rego. Courtesy the artist and Victoria Miro

Portrait of Paula Rego, 2021 © Nick Willing

PAULA REGO THE FORGOTTEN VICTORIA MIRO Until 22 January 2022

Production photo from on location filming in Norway for In Search of the Miraculous, 2020. © Kehinde Wiley

Paula Rego is undoubtedly one of the most compelling figurative artists of her generation, whose work touches on hidden narratives and associated stigmas around the themes of sexuality and gender, fear, desire, power and grief. The Forgotten is Victoria Miro’s first solo exhibition by the artist, bringing together significant individual works and important series from the past two decades. victoria-miro.com

KEHINDE WILEY T H E N AT I O N A L GA L L E R Y Until 18 April 2022

Production photo from on location filming in Haiti for Narrenschiff, 2017. © Kehinde Wiley

American artist Kehinde Wiley (who painted Barack Obama in 2017) is best known for reimagining Old Master paintings by positioning contemporary Black sitters in the poses of historical, religious or mythological figures. For this exhibition, The Prelude, Wiley has turned his attention from portrait to landscape painting, referencing historical land- and seascapes by the likes of Turner, Claude and Vernet. nationalgallery.org.uk 14

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

Louise Bourgeois: The Woven Child H AY WA R D GA L L E R Y 9 February - 15 May 2022

ABOVE: Louise Bourgeois, Spider, 1997 © The Easton Foundation/VAGA at ARS, NY and DACS, London 2021. Photo: Maximilian Geuter; ABOVE (CENTRE): Louise Bourgeois, The Woven Child, 2003 © The Easton Foundation/VAGA at ARS, NY and DACS, London 2021. Photo: Christopher Burke; RIGHT (MIDDLE): Louise Bourgeois, Single I, 1996 © The Easton Foundation/VAGA at ARS, NY and DACS, London 2021. Photo: Ron Amstutz; RIGHT (BELOW): Louise Bourgeois , The Good Mother (detail), 2003 © The Easton Foundation/VAGA at ARS, NY and DACS, London 2021. Photo: Christopher Burke.

This is the first retrospective of Louise Bourgeois to focus solely on the sculptures she created with fabrics and textiles during the final chapter of her career. These extraordinary works, made from clothing, linens and tapestry fragments, address her exploration of identity, sexuality and memory, amongst other things, and what the artist called “the magic power of the needle… to repair the damage.” southbankcentre.co.uk

Hervé Télémaque, Convergence, 1966. Photograph: Musée d’art moderne et contemporain de Saint-Etienne Métropole / Cyrille Cauvet © Hervé Télémaque, ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2021.

HERVÉ TÉLÉMAQUE

SERPENTINE GALLERIES Until 30 January 2022

Bright and playful it might be to the naked eye, with its cartoon-like imagery and pop cultural references, but Hervé Télémaque’s work addresses heavyweight topics such as racism, colonialism, violence and consumerism. A Hopscotch Of The Mind is the first UK institutional show for the Haitian French artist, featuring his paintings, objects, collages and assemblages from the 1950s to the present day. serpentinegalleries.org

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WELLCOME COLLECTION 24 February - 29 August 2022

This major exhibition gives a whole new spin on our relationship with plants and fungi, presenting them as so much more than a resource for human consumption, tools or decoration. A series of new commissions and installations is displayed alongside intriguing botanical specimens and historic works, encouraging the viewer to not only rethink the way we see plant life but also our own relationship with the natural world. wellcomecollection.org

JOANNA POUSETTEDART LISSON GALLERY

Piotr Frac, Gorilla, 2017 © Museum of London

Sound Mirror, Commissioned and produced by the Sao Paulo Biennial. Photo credit Gui Gomes, 2016.

ROOTED B EING S

LONDON MAKING NOW MUSEUM OF LONDON

Until 24 February 2022 Creativity and craft flourishes in London indeed, for centuries, it is what the city’s culture and economy have been based on - and this exhibition features the work of 15 contemporary artists, all of them based in the capital, to exemplify this. Every exhibit has a unique story to tell, including Yinka Ilori’s chair sculpture What God Has Joined Together, Let No Man Put Asunder (2015), an ode to his parents’ marriage. museumoflondon.org.uk

Until 22 January 2022 This is the first London exhibition for New York-based artist Joanna PousetteDart. Her signature multi-panel curved canvases - inspired by her desire to go beyond the limitations of the rectangle and to create a space that reflects her own perceptions - line the gallery walls, their arresting colours giving a real sense of light and movement. lissongallery.com

Yinka Ilori, What God Has Joined Together, Let No Man Put Asunder (2015) © Museum of London

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Alessandro Michele for Gucci. Look 7 FW 2015. Courtesy of Gucci

FASHIONING MASCULINITIES: THE ART OF MENSWEAR IN PARTNERSHIP WITH GUCCI

VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM

19 March – 6 November 2022

Omar Victor Diop, Jean-Baptiste Belley, 2014. Courtesy MAGNIN-A Gallery, Paris © Omar Victor Diop

FRANCIS BACON MAN & BEAST R OYA L AC A D E M Y 29 January - 17 April 2022 The first exhibition to ever shine a light on Francis Bacon’s fascination with animals and how this curiosity is reflected in his depiction of the human figure - 45 paintings have been chosen, spanning his earliest works in the 1930s right through to the final painting he ever made in 1991, via a trio of paintings of bullfights from 1969. Each reflects Bacon’s deep-held belief that humankind is fundamentally an animal - something that lay at the heart of his oeuvre. royalacademy.org.uk

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Portrait of George Dyer Crouching, 1966. Private collection. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd.;

Study for Bullfight No. 1, 1969. Private Collection. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd.

Auguste Rodin, The Age of Bronze (L’Age d’Airain), 1880-1914 (cast). © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

In what the V&A is calling “a celebration of the masculine wardrobe”, this exhibition shines a spotlight on how designers, tailors, artists and their clients have all played a pivotal role in the metamorphosis of male fashion over the centuries. Displayed across three galleries, contemporary looks by designers such as Gucci and Grace Wales Bonner sit alongside historical gems and contemporary artworks and film, in homage to masculine sartorial selfexpression at its finest vam.ac.uk

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Artist Focus

Higher Power

Temple Roof Garden, Photo by Andy Rain

East London-based artist Lakwena Maciver is behind some of the capital’s most uplifting artworks, providing a welcome dose of bright hues and hope during times of uncertainty. Here she talks about her creative journey and the power of positivity

W o r d s LU C I A N A B E L L I N I

f you’ve strolled around central London lately, it’s likely you’ve stumbled across Lakwena Maciver’s work without even realising it. It’s hard to miss entire rooftops covered in kaleidoscopic zigzags in Temple, acid-bright flags in Covent Garden, vast colour-soaked murals in Shoreditch. The east London artist has been painting since 2013, when an enormous urban mural in Miami launched her career, but right now she’s having a moment. Hot off the heels of some of her biggest commissions to date and several prestigious collaborations with the likes of Fiorucci and Nike, for whom she’s just painted its new London headquarters, her joyful technicolour works have

Arkansas Basketball Court, Just Kids Commission

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

“I want to

connect with PEOPLE I want to create ART that resonates with them"

TOP LEFT: Lakwena, Lift You Higher, UN Womens Commission. Photography: Will Amlott; ABOVE RIGHT: VIGO Frieze; ABOVE: Nothing Can Separate Us. LEFT: Fiorucci x Lakwena. Photography: Ruth Ossai

never been more in demand - as her overcrowded Hackney studio can attest to. “I started off with a tiny desk space here, and then just slowly took over the whole place,” she says over Zoom, gesturing around the studio, which is filled with her large-scale works. “I’m looking for somewhere new now and it needs to be about double the size.” Business is booming for the Bromley-born, British-Ugandan creative, whose inspiring works have struck a chord with post-pandemic Londoners. Described as “painted prayers and meditations”, each one proclaims a positive message - such as ‘Nothing Can Separate Us’ or ‘You’ve Got The Love’. “My work comes out of everyday life - what I’m experiencing, what I’m listening to, what I’m annoyed by and what

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LEFT: Photo by Mafalda da Silva; ABOVE: Painting The Bollards In Covent Garden. RIGHT HAND PAGE, TOP: Temple Roof Garden, Photo by Andy Rain; MIDDLE: This House Believes, Humber Street Gallery, Hull, 2018

“My work comes out

of everyday life - what I’m experiencing, what I’m listening to, what I’m annoyed by and what I’m hoping for"

I’m hoping for,” she says. “And a lot of it is things that other people can relate to, because I don’t think I’m particularly unusual in what I hope for, what I’m scared of or frustrated by.” While she says she hasn’t found the last 18 months as difficult as some, using it as an opportunity to focus on her work and spend more time with her family (Maciver has two young sons with her husband, Mark, the award-winning barber behind Hackney’s SliderCuts, who has cut hair for the likes of Stormzy and Anthony Joshua), she admits her pieces have taken on a deeper meaning in light of recent events. “I think a lot of people have felt lonely, scared and disoriented, and that has made the work resonate with people even more.” Growing up in southeast London, Maciver didn’t always aspire to become an artist - “I always said I didn’t want to be one, because I knew you didn’t necessarily earn much money” - but a trip to Brazil with friends changed all that. “I ended up painting a mural, and it suddenly clicked that this is what I do when I’m left to my own devices.” She enrolled in a graphic design course at the London College of Communication and quickly developed her signature style. “The course’s emphasis was on communication - wanting to speak has always been important for me, so I began with trying to tell my story of growing up as a mixed-race girl in Bromley in the 90s. Expressing that through painting seemed like a natural thing for me.” Maciver describes her use of bright colours as a form of escape, a way

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A R T S & C U LT U R E of reconnecting with her African heritage. “Originally, my art was a way of working out who I was and telling that to the world,” she says. “I felt disconnected from my heritage and lived for a long time without a sense of home, so I was trying to escape in the only way that I could, which was to create something tangible.” By focusing on uplifting messages, Maciver forced herself to turn her mind to a place of positivity rather than dwelling on the negative. “Most of my work started off as me speaking to myself when I was in my darkest places. Whether or not I feel it, I paint these things because I believe them to be true, I believe there is hope. A lot of it is trying to hold onto that and meditate on the words.” Her artistic influences are wideranging and diverse, from Emory Douglas, the former Minister of Culture of the Black Panthers, to Congolese painter Chéri Samba and Barbara Kruger, whose skilful use of words can be seen as a source of inspiration in Maciver’s own artworks. She also admires the work of Esther Mahlangu and Faith Ringgold, specifically in relation to their use of the domestic. “I love the fact that [Ringgold’s] work integrates techniques like patchwork - elements that could be classed as ‘domestic’ but are really significant and powerful means of image making,” says Maciver. “Her work challenges arbitrary boundaries applied to art.” As for the predominantly male domain of street art, which Maciver often finds herself working within as a rare female voice, she admits it’s not a movement

she truly feels a part of. “I have a lot of respect for street artists, and I definitely have made work in that context, but I’m not a street artist that’s not the community that my work evolved out of.” The last 12 months have brought about some of her most exciting projects to date, from creating limited-edition merchandise for charity Choose Love’s pop-up store in Carnaby Street (as well as painting the exterior in her trademark psychedelic style) - “it’s all to raise funds for the charity and help refugees, which is so important” - to exhibiting a series of paintings in the historic courtyard of Somerset House and creating a clothing line with Italian label Fiorucci, which she describes as a dream T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

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collaboration. “It’s not just about the clothes - I’ve been able to tell a whole story and it just felt very authentic.” But she’s proudest of the immersive floorscape she painted on the roof of Temple station, Back In The Air: A Meditation On Higher Ground, which is available to view until the end of April. “It just feels like such an iconic spot, being in the heart of the city and overlooking the Thames. The fact that it’s in my home city makes it particularly special.” Next up, she has her sights set on working with a heritage designer “It would be amazing to collaborate with an incredible British brand like Burberry, I’d love to do something really fun and fresh with them” - and is currently working on a new solo show at Vigo Gallery, revolving around a series of basketball paintings she’s been making over the last few years. “I love how basketball has this universal quality to it, but there are also a lot of different things you can extrapolate from it. It’s a wonderful example of an expression of Black male joy, which I think is really important.” Ultimately, though, her goal is to make relatable work. “I want to connect with people - I want to create art that resonates with them.” Lakwena Maciver’s Jump Paintings is at Vigo Gallery, 7/8 Masons Yard, St. James’s, SW1; 19 January - 26 February; vigogallery.com; lakwena.com 21

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Natalia Vodianova and Helmut Lang, Paris, 2003 from Annie Leibovitz Wonderland. © Annie Leibovitz.

ANNIE LEIBOVITZ:

WONDERLAND Phaidon, £69.95

Max Motta and Mariana for Tom Ford Neroli Portofino © Tom Ford

American photographer Annie Leibovitz is known the world over for her celebrity portraiture, but this is the first book that focuses solely on her encounters with fashion. Over 340 photographs have been brought together for the purpose of the book, including ambitious fashion shoots and portraits of everyone from models and designers to Serena Williams, Lady Gaga and the Queen. Images are accompanied by a backstory from Leibovitz herself and she has also written the preface, pontificating on a career that has spanned five decades and counting.

In e

FRAME From FASHION monographs to PHOTOGRAPHIC journals, these new PUBLICATIONS will add style to any coffee table

TOM FORD 002 Rizzoli, £95

Seventeen years after Tom Ford debuted his book Tom Ford, which chronicled his years at Gucci, the designer has published Tom Ford 002. A celebration of the eponymous brand that he founded in 2005, the second volume’s style credentials are second to none, with a foreword by Anna Wintour and introduction by Graydon Carter. But it’s the visuals that steal the show - the glossy pages packed full of celebrities wearing the designer, advertising campaigns shot by the likes of Inez & Vinoodh and Mert & Marcus, as well as portraits of the designer and his family.

Photo courtesy of Bella Hadid Instagram

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Shanelle Nyasiase, Haut, Vogue Ukraine, July 2019. © Nadine Ijewere, 2021.

A R T S & C U LT U R E

NADINE IJEWERE:

OUR OWN SELVES Prestel, £39.99

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Ellen von Unwerth - Claudia Schiffer, Viareggio, Italy, 1989 for Guess Jeans. Image © Ellen von Unwerth; Michel Comte - Kristy Hume, Nadja Auermann, Nadège du Bospertus, Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni, Christy Turlington, Shalom Harlow, Brandi Quinones, 1994. Image Credit: Michel Comte; Juergen Teller ‘Young Pink Kate’, London, 1998. Image © Juergen Teller, All Rights Reserved; Ellen von Unwerth - Kate Moss, Paris, 1995 for Vogue US. Image © Ellen von Unwerth.

CAPTIVATE!

CURATED BY CLAUDIA SCHIFFER

Prestel, £49.99

Fashion in the 1990s was all about the supermodel. Which is why, when one of them - Claudia Schiffer - curates a book of fashion photography from that illustrious decade, you take notice. Captivate! is billed as Schiffer’s “personal photographic journey” with over 150 images encapsulating an era that ran the gamut of glam to grunge. Alongside work by photographers of the era such as Corinne Day and Herb Ritts, you’ll find essays from the likes of Carine Roitfeld and Ellen von Unwerth, bringing to life some of the most iconic moments in sartorial history.

London-born Nadine Ijewere first fell in love with photography when she was a little girl, going on to study at the London College of Fashion. Successfully combining the two, she is now one of today’s most sought-after fashion photographers. This is the first book to be dedicated to Ijewere, with over 160 photographs charting a formidable career that has seen her deconstruct stereotyping within the industry. Indeed, in 2018, Ijewere was the first Black woman to shoot the cover of Vogue in the magazine’s 125-year global history.

©Nadine Ijewere, 2021.

LEFT: © Archivio Foto Locchi; RIGHT: © Museo Salvatore Ferragamo

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO:

SHOEMAKER OF DREAMS Rizzoli, $30

Born in 1898, Salvatore Ferragamo studied shoemaking in Naples before moving to America to design footwear for stars of the silver screen. In 1927 he returned to Italy, where he founded the eponymous House which was to become the major global brand we know today. This is a completely updated edition of Ferragamo’s autobiography tracing the journey of a man who, from humble beginnings, put Italy on the fashion map. The book is packed with anecdotes about the Hollywood stars Ferragamo encountered - Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Greta Garbo among them.

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JO Interview

Heralded as the voice of a generation, singersongwriter Joy Crookes opens up about her musical heroes, finding inspiration amongst the streets of London and the catharsis of writing an album W o r d s K I E R A N YAT E S P h o t o g r a p h y CA R LOTA G U E R R E RO

oy Crookes is describing her childhood bedroom. “I had one of those beds that’s really close to the floor,” she recalls, as she chats from her family home in Elephant and Castle, “then I screwed guitar holders into my wall so that the first thing I saw when I woke up was my guitar.” Though the last few days have been a whirlwind for the 23-year-old singer-songwriter - a trip to New York to promote her recently released debut studio album Skin, an appearance on The Graham Norton Show and two BRIT award nominations, Best New Artist and Best Pop/ R&B Act - Crookes’s vivacity is palpable. Her music is identified by deep, brooding reflections and a charismatic energy you also feel from chatting with her. Today, she slouches when she’s relaxed and sits up excitedly to gesticulate a point with her red pointed acrylic tips, gold rings glinting over Zoom, dark hair falling around her face.

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“Music is everything

This image she depicts, of a young Crookes looking up at her guitar with musical reverence (she also plays piano and bass), says a lot about an artist destined for greatness, and she describes her musical obsessions as starting early. On social media, she has told fans how she had “suffered from mental-health issues” since she was “young” and as we chat she makes a passive reference to being bullied at school in her teens. Part of metabolising all the frailty of the world and self was through writing and singing songs, buying her first guitar from Argos and teaching herself to play. In her bedroom, instead of posters on her walls, she had “CDs everywhere” and happily chats about a few of them that made up the furniture: Gilles Peterson live albums, Trojan Sound System, The Foundations and The Rolling Stones. “I used to wax my legs listening to Patti Smith!” she shrieks. Other musical icons that get a namecheck are Kate Nash and Alicia Keys. She smiles as she recalls making musical discoveries at the sometime detriment of her neighbours. “I remember the [neighbours] once being like, ‘Joy, if you play Alicia Keys one more time on the piano, we’re going to kill you!’” she laughs. Some liken her to Amy Winehouse, thanks to her soulful cadence and the richness of her lyrics, reminiscent of a bygone era. However, any comparisons to Amy, Crookes has said, are probably due to them having similar musical heroes. She discovered Black jazz singers on YouTube when she was 14 and has talked passionately in the past about women that she is in deep gratitude to: “I was diagnosed with depression so young, and these women could get on stages and sing from the darkest depths of their souls. I can’t sit here and credit Amy, the root is those women: Ella Fitzgerald, Sarah Vaughan, Nina Simone. We wouldn’t exist without those women.” Her musical education was also informed by her parents. Although they

and The Beatles released albums. Spotify places her with the most exciting artists in the genre: Sault, Cleo Sol and Jordan Rakei. In another life, Crookes tells me, she might have been an archaeologist and it kind of makes sense. The album is an excavation - taking us into private moments of intimacy, singing about everything from trauma, sex, love and politics. Consisting of a collection of 13 tracks written and honed throughout Crookes’s adolescence and into her early twenties, it was finessed during the pandemic. After almost two years of lockdowns and restrictions, Crookes admits that the superficial sheen of being online has ignited her passion for finding something real. “I’ve been struggling a little bit on social media because I’ve noticed that my algorithm suggests a lot of ‘perfect’ looking girls,” she tells me with an almost eye-roll. “I really struggle with social media and the perception of beauty because what I find beautiful in real life is… maybe something about the way that someone’s skin is, or a mouth that’s a bit too small for their face, but it makes them look beautiful.” That Crookes’s eye for beauty delights in the detail should come as no surprise, and her take is refreshingly optimistic - there is beauty yet to be unearthed in the world offline. The period also gave her time to happily self-reflect which, in her case, is an artistic challenge to write about. It makes sense then that the album has been described as “a statement of selfhood” because Crookes uses the opportunity to confront herself by not shying away from the honest and intimate, revealing a vulnerable, deeply empathetic side of herself. This can be heard across all the songs, including To Lose Someone, touching on the pain and confusion as a relationship ends, and Unlearn You, about her experience with abuse and assault. While the big, danceable power of Feet Don’t Fail Me Now is Crookes imploring herself

PHOTOGRAPHY: KATIE SILVESTER

for me. It’s the bane of my life and it’s the best thing I’ve ever had in my life, and will always be the best thing. It’s my constant" separated when she was two, she divided her time between her first-generation Bangladeshi mother, who played Justin Timberlake and Timbaland as a way of connecting with a Western musical palette, and her Irish father, who she describes driving her around their home city of London in his Peugeot 206 introducing her to “the greats”. “Once he put on [Pakistani singer] Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan and he was singing it phonetically with an Irish accent.” It was her dad who also helped shape her lyrics; he would recite poetry to her when she was a little girl, and the lines of WB Yeats and Paddy Kavanagh stayed with her. Crookes has woven these musical and lyrical threads for as long as she can remember. “I’m a sponge to everyone I grew up around and everything I heard.” It’s well-documented that she started putting her own original songs on YouTube when she was 15, and it’s here that she first caught the attention of the music industry. Leaving school a year later, she went on to sign a record deal with Insanity Records, an imprint of Sony Music, in 2019. Her brand of deep, stirring melancholy has since earned much acclaim - she was nominated for a Rising Star Award at the Brits, ranked fourth on the BBC Sound of 2020 poll, and sold out her debut UK tour in hours. As for Skin, it has been met with rave reviews by fans and critics, who have called it a “masterclass” and Crookes “the new face of British soul”. Indeed, a few days after its release, it landed at number 5 in the UK charts: no mean feat in the same week that Adele, Coldplay

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to keep control in a moment bigger than herself. It might be in these more devotional, meditative moments that, while Crookes’s music is defined by moments of joy, you get a sense it’s also her release. “Music is everything for me,” she tells me with a sigh. “It’s the bane of my life and it’s the best thing I’ve ever had in my life, and will always be the best thing. It’s my constant.” While Crookes is at the centre of her music, she has invited London to be the other character braided throughout. The album is sprinkled with those who she has crossed paths with in the city - from cab drivers to Tory neighbours, immigrants to anti-immigration activists. Songs like London Mine mention the capital directly (“I’ve been fooled by the charm/Of the Kennington Road”) as does When You Were Mine, about Crookes’s first love, who ended up being with a man after they broke up. The track references Brixton, the area mapping the site of their relationship. In the making of it, she has described the frenetic highlife pace of Ghanaian guitarist Ebo Taylor as an influence - and a need for it to sound “messy”, something achieved by the aid of Japanese whiskey. After all, Crookes’s relationship with the city is innate - her father, a structural engineer, helped build part of the city (she proudly mentions that he was involved in creating Piccadilly Circus’s LED lights) and her mother, who ran a catering business, fed mouths across it. It was the musical identity of being surrounded by the diasporic immigrant communities of south London too, that had a huge impact. Using music as therapy might be a welcome escape in an increasingly tumultuous political climate - some songs, such as 19th Floor, illustrate the contagion of gentrification head on (“Lost the tower where my heart is/Cinema skylines that I don’t recognise”), and Crookes penned Kingdom as an instant reaction to the Conservative Party winning the general election in 2019. A tweet from the time of release sums up her thoughts: “Wrote this the day after the tories were elected. Safe to say I wasn’t happy.” Politics, she says, have always been part of her life, but a turning point was the 2018 Windrush scandal. 28

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PHOTOGRAPHY: CARLOTA GUERRERO

“I was talking to my dad a lot about the way that the Western world viewed immigrants and refugees,” she tells me. “And my own family are asylum seekers, so it all hit home, and at that point there was anger. It feels so natural [to write about it] - it’s just the stuff that gets my blood boiling.” Expanding on this point, her album is so called because “biologically, skin is one of the strongest parts of our bodies, but if we translate skin into identity, socially or externally, that’s something that’s used against you all the time. It’s multifaceted, it’s layered, and it’s a point of weakness for a lot of people.” The title is also an ode to historical love stories. Crookes recalls finding a love poem her dad wrote when he was around her age, also called ‘Skin’. “At the end, he wrote: ‘skin, I’ve melted into you’,” she says. “So, I took a picture of it and then wrote a song in response to the poem.” The memory is a good example of how her music acts as a microbiome to connect stories, lives, heartbreak and jubilation. At one point during our conversation, I catch a look at her phone background - a black and white picture of her and her brother as children and she smiles as she describes her family influence. The skit at the beginning of 19th Floor is a recording of a gentle and conversational “I love you nani”, an ode to her maternal grandmother (the title references the flat her nani lived in for 30 years in south London)… a generous moment of intimate sharing that takes us to these times of love and connection with family, lovers and even ancestral longing. Crookes, like her name suggests, advocates stepping into joy by any means possible. When her album was released in October, she stood outside various London sites - including Selfridges - with a sandwich board reading ‘JOY CROOKES: NEW MUSIC THIS FRIDAY’, and a megaphone in a rickshaw doing selfpromo. This humour is characteristic, and she brings it in the room as she shrieks with laughter about all this. She is a cultural joy-seeker, too. She lights up talking about fashion, and her style is a mood board that swirls between vintage sportswear to

“Biologically, skin is one of the

strongest parts of our bodies, but if we translate skin into identity, socially or externally, that’s something that’s used against you all the time. It’s multifaceted, it’s layered, and it’s a point of weakness for a lot of people" being in “love with mod fashion” and the glamour of Bollywood starlets in the 60s. Her favourite pieces at the moment, she explains at top speed, are some Grenson boots and creole earrings from Indian jewellery designer Bhavya Ramesh. There is also thrill to be had with updated South Asian style choices for occasions such as the Brits, where she wore a lehnga, and which, at the time she said she hoped “young girls can see someone who looks like their mum, their auntie, their gran on the red carpet”. Of her style, she isn’t asking for a lot - “I just basically want to be a brown Audrey Hepburn. That’s where I’m heading,” she laughs. Crookes sees her music videos as full cultural productions interweaved with style and storytelling, and she finds inspiration in other creative connections. She discusses a recent exhibition by the artist Pepón Osorio - Badge Of Honour - at New York’s MOMA - a work on incarceration that enabled her to reflect on the similarity between neighbourhoods in New Jersey and her own. “He was concerned to learn that for many young people there, which is exactly the same as growing up in Elephant and Castle, having a parent in jail was considered a badge of honour,” she recalls. It’s music that she always comes back to though. She takes pleasure in talking about Billie Holiday’s book Lady Sings The Blues and reaching for her Spotify, she recommends Zimbabwean band Hallelujah Chicken Run Band and new music from American R&B singer SZA.

She sums up life’s pleasures simply. “I love cooking, driving, making love,” she grins. “Those are some of my favourite things in the whole world. It feels like I have my own agency when I cook.” She lists her favourite Indian street food in London, from Marylebone to her own talents (“I make a pretty banging korma!”) and her YouTube cooking show Cooking With Crooksie is a light and airy offering, where she intermittently uploads videos of making food with fellow artists such as Miraa May and presenters such as Amelia Dimoldenberg. Crookes is now gearing up for a European tour in early spring and the summer’s round of festivals. At this stage of her career, selling out shows is still a novelty, but her fans on social media indicate that this is her about to go stratospheric. Crookes, meanwhile, remains thrillingly unafraid to take you through euphoria, heartache, melancholy and back again, challenging listeners to remember the last time you really felt connected. To her, the music says all she wants to say: “If there’s a song that stops you from feeling depressed, or if there’s a song that makes you feel like your depression is heard, then… great! I’m glad that I could do that.” And with that she clicks off, still dreaming, still looking up at the music, finding the connections between disparate worlds and the beauty in the strength of her - and our - skin. Joy Crookes’ debut album ‘Skin’ is out now 29

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STYLE DOUBLE ACT The 90s-inspired accessories label By Far has joined forces with super stylist Mimi Cuttrell - whose clients include Gigi and Bella Hadid - to launch a collection of shoes and bags, available exclusively at Net-a-Porter. The capsule features nine new styles, including sculptural boots, pumps, sandals and slingbacks, plus a shoulder bag and a glossy leather tote. net-a-porter.com

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Fashion Notes

Bracelets go retro,, the genderless, upcycled blouse takes centre stage & Dior’s covetable it-bag C o m p i l e d b y C H A R LOT T E A DS E T T

IN THE BAG

Dior has welcomed in the new year with the Lady D-Joy bag. Similar to the Lady Dior in shape - though it’s longer and flatter - the new design comes with a removable chain strap and an adjustable shoulder strap, so it’s wearable three ways. Choose from woven raﬃa, white macro-cannage technical fabric or calfskin featuring an embroidered butterfly motif. From £2,800; dior.com

NEW BOHEMIA

SPELL IT OUT

Tapping into the current beaded bracelet trend, that will either take you back to your childhood or the 90s dance music scene, is the Balenciaga Toy Bracelet. The kitsch design features multi-hued beads and charms for a welcome hit of nostalgia. £395; balenciaga.com

London-based designer Harris Reed has joined forces with Italian fashion house Etro to launch a limited-edition collection of silk genderless blouses. Channelling the late 60s and early 70s, the capsule comprises two styles characterised by voluminous shaping, blouson sleeves and a pussy bow - the latter a Reed signature. In keeping with the designer’s everpresent message about upcycling, all the pieces are made from paisleyand �loral-print deadstock fabric from the Etro archives. £985;

matchesfashion.com; etro.com

Sporting Glory

GAME CHANGER Net-a-Sporter - the sporty little sister site to Net-a-Porter - has launched its latest fitness edit, which promises ergonomic designs and technology-forward fabrics. Incorporating looks to be worn in the gym, studio or the great outdoors, standouts include Khaite’s exclusive ‘Ballet’ capsule and new collections from the likes of The Upside, Splits59 and Adidas by Stella McCartney. net-a-porter.com

GOLDEN WONDER

To mark the 50th anniversary of iconic shoe brand Manolo Blahnik, the Spanishborn, London-based designer, whose very ﬁrst store was on the King’s Road, has created a gold capsule collection comprising a glittering mix of new styles and reimagined classics, including the Maysale Crystal Mule (£945). manoloblahnik.com

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CREATIVE PURSUITS

CONSCIOUS MOVES

When Alexander McQueen creative director Sarah Burton met Charlotte James and Clémentine Schneidermann, who run a creative studio that works with young people living in underfunded areas in South Wales, an idea was born to launch ‘Alexander McQueen in Wales’. The educational project saw the fashion house’s embroidery, studio and education teams run immersive workshops with youth groups to encourage them to explore their own vision, their creations recorded in both a book and a fashion documentary. alexandermcqueen.com

Yael Aflalo’s cult US brand Reformation - the responsible, ethical womenswear line - has expanded its empire on these shores, with a new shop in Shoreditch and a flagship in the pipeline in Covent Garden. As you’d expect from the eco-conscious, carbon-neutral label - which recently partnered with three artists for its Fine Prints collection, including this graphic dress by Marleigh Culver - a sustainable ethos runs throughout the stores, with vintage furniture, eco-friendly hangers and reusable totes. 19-29 Redchurch Street, Shoreditch, E2

thereformation.com

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Wool jacket, £1,150

Wool jacket, £1,250

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Queen ofThrift

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STYLE

Esteemed stylist Bay Garnett has been flying the flag for vintage fashion for more than two decades. She tells us how it all began, why secondhand has a luxury context and where to source the best pre-loved pieces in London W o r d s LU C I A N A B E L L I N I

“C

harity shops have always been a big love for me – it sounds dramatic and self-indulgent, but they saved me,” says Bay Garnett. The power stylist is talking to me from the Shepherd’s Bush home she shares with her husband, the photographer Tom Craig, and their two children. She’s sitting on her sofa in a grey chunky-knit sweater and a pair of Clark Kent-style black-framed Cubitts glasses as she muses on her extraordinary two-decade-long career in the fashion industry and the role that vintage clothes have played in it. “Charity shops made me feel like I was good at something. And it wasn’t just the clothes; it was the ideas and the stories behind them, and the independence of creating your own stories with those finds.” Garnett is the rarest of breeds, a true fashion maverick and self-confessed ‘Queen of Thrift’ who has yet found herself firmly embedded within the ranks of the stylish elite. As a stylist, her work has appeared everywhere from British Vogue, where she was a contributing fashion editor for 15 years, to the Evening Standard, where she was appointed the fashion directorat-large in 2016. She’s worked with the world’s top fashion photographers, from Craig McDean and Nick Knight to David LaChapelle, and has consulted for brands including Louis Vuitton and Chloé. But while she has been entrenched in the world of high fashion since the late 90s, becoming the first stylist to include vintage pieces in luxury glossy magazine shoots, she admits she has always seen herself as something of an outsider. “I always had a step out of it, to be honest with you,” she says. “For me, there was always cynicism around mass marketing and also around fashion culture in general.”

Although it is her shoots for the likes of Vogue that put her on the map, many would argue that Garnett’s most influential work came in one of the first projects she worked on, published in the cult anti-fashion fanzine Cheap Date, which she co-edited with Kira Jolliffe in the late 90s – a book, The Cheap Date Guide To Style, followed in 2007. (The inimitable duo teamed up again in 2016 on another fanzine, Fanpages, which featured contributions from the likes of Sophie Dahl, Chloë Sevigny and Alexa Chung.) Devised to celebrate the power of thrifting, early issues of Cheap Date were printed on cut-price black and white paper and sold for $2, but while it may have been made on a shoestring, it still packed a serious punch: Rolling Stones muse Anita Pallenberg interviewed Debbie Harry for a cover story, and Garnett herself shot Sevigny for a mock centrefold. One of its most memorable shoots was a series of fake advertising campaigns, which spoofed the polished billboards of the era by recreating them using clothes sourced from vintage shops in Harlem and Queens and riffing on brand names. “In the campaigns, Yves Saint Laurent became ‘Salvation Army’ and Christian Dior was ‘Charity Donor’ - we wanted to flip them on their heads by using second-hand clothes,” says Garnett. It was these ads that caught the eye of Alexandra Shulman, then editor of British Vogue, and led to her asking Garnett to join as an editor. “I was like, ‘Oh my god, really? Me?! Ok then,” she recalls. For her first editorial, she booked Juergen Teller to shoot Kate Moss, who Garnett styled exclusively in second-hand clothes. “Well, I didn’t actually know how to call in clothes, because I’d only ever been to vintage shops!” she laughs. Not only that – she’d never even assisted on a shoot before. One of the most famous pieces - a banana-print top that Garnett

“The recent sea change has been like a tidal wave – it’s everywhere and it’s extraordinary"

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FAS H I O N

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made a foundation and Guggenheim was godmother to her sister, Rose. Garnett has been happily scouring charity shops ever since she can remember; her mother used to pick the three sisters up from school and head straight to the local thrift stores. Since moving to the capital, she’s always lived in west London, hopping around from Portobello Road to Holland Park before settling in her current home in Shepherd’s Bush, and is almost reverential about the delights of Portobello Market, where she knows many of the stall holders by name. Unsurprisingly, most of her favourite vintage shops are on her doorstep. Now, of course, Garnett’s renegade ways couldn’t be more relevant. Post-COP26, when the whole world is waking up to the environmental crisis and the devastating effect that fast fashion

“If I’m buying new, I’ll only buy classic pieces that I know I’ll wear forever,, like a Harris Tweed blazer or a cashmere sweater from N. Peal" had found in a thrift store on the Upper East Side in New York, which she proudly still owns - caught the eye of Phoebe Philo, then the creative director at Chloé, who loved it so much she created her entire SS04 collection around the shoot. “I went in right from the beginning using second-hand clothes, and that never changed - it wasn’t for sustainable reasons at that point, but because I liked going off grid and I loved the way it bucked the marketing system at the time. There was definitely a political thing around it, especially with my work in Cheap Date – the anarchy is very clear there.” Garnett grew up with fashion in her blood – her mother, the writer Polly Devlin, had been a Vogue editor herself, working under Diana Vreeland and Beatrix Miller. Born in Bath, Garnett grew up in Gloucestershire in a creative

female household - she would spend weekends with her engineer father, Andy, in Bruton, Somerset - as the youngest of three sisters: the oldest, Rose, is head of BBC Films, while middle sister Daisy is a Londonbased writer. Garnett cut her teeth in the art world first, studying art history at Exeter University, before moving to Venice for five months to take up an internship at the Peggy Guggenheim Foundation - her parents honeymooned at the spectacular house before it was

Bay Garnett, top left; after Garnett styled Kate Moss in a banana-print top for Vogue (above), it inspired Phoebe Philo’s SS04 collection for Chloé (left). Bay’s work on the cult anti-fashion fanzine Cheap Date (right), which she co-edited with Kira Jolliffe in the late 90s

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STYLE

“I wanted to put a charity shop in a luxury context, to make second-hand shopping appealing and alluring"

is having on the planet, her approach to thoughtful vintage shopping is being adopted by the masses - something that she relishes. “The recent sea change has been like a tidal wave - it’s everywhere and it’s extraordinary,” she says. “It’s slightly bemusing but it’s also really exciting - it’s like, ‘Yeah, come on, welcome to the party!’” And while she didn’t originally set out with sustainability in mind, that has since become a huge part of her work, particularly in the projects she does with Oxfam, for whom she became senior independent fashion adviser in 2017. Since working with them she has put on catwalk shows at London Fashion Week featuring Laura Bailey and the late Stella Tennant - one of Garnett’s closest friends; been part of Harris Reed’s headline-making spring summer 2022 collection, which was created entirely out of donated Oxfam clothes; and spearheaded three years of its annual campaign, Second Hand September, which has been fronted by the likes of Michaela Coel and Sienna Miller. Hugely popular pop-ups at Selfridges followed. Curated by Garnett herself, these pop-ups have hitherto been a haven for vintage lovers, packed full of everything from Manolo Blahnik heels and 90s Ralph Lauren safari jackets to Teddy Boy Rockabilly peacoats. “I think it’s important to have somewhere like Selfridges embrace second-hand fashion,” she says. “I wanted to put a charity shop in a luxury context, to make second-hand shopping appealing and alluring.” For the final month of last year's pop-up, Garnett asked four stylish trendsetters - Chloë Sevigny, Georgia May Jagger, Neneh Cherry and Mica Paris to reveal the five things they always look for in a vintage shop and curate edited rails with Garnett. “I wanted to keep the energy fresh and fun, and not just make it my edits. Chloë’s a friend, I’ve known her for a long time, and I had this idea: What does Chloë Sevigny look for in a thrift store? That’s something I would like to know, so I figured others would too.” For her part, Garnett still thinks wistfully of some of her most beloved vintage finds, including a brown Dior cape with gold tassels from the 70s and a tobacco-coloured Calvin Klein coat from the late 80s that she found in New York. “Brooke Shields would have worn it – it was so beautiful, irreplaceable,” she recalls. “I loved it and I lived in it; I had to throw

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FAS H I O N

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Kate Moss, styled by Garnett for Centrefold, shot by Venetia Scott (left); Garnett teamed up with Jolliffe again in 2016 on another fanzine, Fanpages (above); it was Garnett's fake advertising campaigns, such as this twist on Yves Saint Laurent (below) that caught the eye of Alexandra Shulman, who offered Garnett a job at British Vogue.

it out in the end as it was literally falling apart.” The one piece she’s yet to track down is an oversized Saint Laurent denim shirt from the 70s, which is at the very top of her vintage hit list. She does still occasionally buy new pieces, but says she’s not plugged into the scene when it comes to up-and-coming fashion designers, or those making waves in the world of sustainability. “I don’t check how sustainable a piece is because I never buy fast fashion or cheap clothes,” she says. “If I’m buying new, I’ll only buy classic pieces that I know I’ll wear forever, like a Harris Tweed blazer or a cashmere sweater from N. Peal.” Alongside her Oxfam projects, Garnett also runs a much-loved podcast called This Old Thing? in which she interviews an eclectic mix of guests ranging from Charlotte

Tilbury and Rachel Weisz to Miquita Oliver and Christina Ricci about the most memorable outfits from their childhood and beyond. Now in its third season and sponsored by eBay, current highlights include British supermodel Erin O’Connor (a friend for 25 years) talking about her favourite pre-loved, recycled and repaired pieces, and Sienna Miller discussing how it felt to have her personal boho style infiltrate the mainstream in the early Noughties. “On one level, clothes are seen as really superficial, but on another level they’re so un-superficial - they make up characters in movies, and what we wear and the stuff we remember other people wearing is really interesting,” says Garnett on the reasons behind launching the podcast. “I’m into clothes - what can I say?”

For Garnett, the recent move away from the elitist culture of high fashion towards something more inclusive and accessible feels like a refreshing change. “You have to understand, 10 years ago it was a very exclusive club, and a lot of people weren’t that friendly in it,” she says. “That’s changed now fashion has had itself stripped away a lot, by magazines closing and by the rise of second-hand, all these other things that make it much more democratic and that feels like the right place for me - charity shops are a real equaliser, and that’s always where I’ve been happiest.” The third series of This Old Thing? podcast is available to download now baygarnett.com

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STYLE

My Fashion Glossary

Bay’s Vintage Secrets

Where to buy consciously - and stylishly - in London RELLIK

Rellik is the place to go for designer names - “I always see a lot of Saint Laurent there, as well as vintage Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, old Margiela and Norma Kamali,” says Garnett. “They also have a great range of 70s frocks.” Set up by three former Portobello Market traders - Fiona Stuart, Claire Stansfield and Steven Philip in 1999, it’s a treasure trove of vintage delights. Alongside popping in to browse their rails of designer pieces, you can also organise a private shopping experience where you’ll have the store all to yourself. 8 Golborne Road, Notting Hill, W10 relliklondon.co.uk

BE FOCUSED

"Think about something specific you want, or a picture you’ve seen of someone - I saw an image of Sharon Stone that I loved the other day, wearing gold chains and a big chunky knit. If you go thinking I’d love to find a camel coat, or an oversized men’s cashmere sweater, then your brain is engaged, and looking through the rails becomes a task that’s quite enjoyable. I look at old photos of style icons such as Debbie Harry and Anita Pallenberg for inspiration."

DIOR

Sunglasses

LOUIS VUITTON X TAKASHI MURAKAMI Monogram Scarf

HAVE A HIT LIST OF DESIGNERS

FOUND AND VISION

Situated just off the Golborne Road, Found and Vision was set up by top stylists Karen Clarkson and Oxana Korsun, and tailor Rosie Meres, in 2012 and quickly became a mecca for those searching for high-quality vintage pieces - particularly from the 70s. “If you’re looking for a great denim shirt with studs, you’ll probably be able to get it there, or a San Francisco tourist sweatshirt, or an old Bruce Springsteen T-shirt,” says Garnett. “They’ve got a real mix of stuff, all from the 70s up until the early 80s.” 318 Portobello Road, Notting Hill, W10 foundandvision.com

CHANEL

Classic Flap Bag

CELINE

Leopard-Print Coat

GET TO KNOW THE STAFF AT YOUR LOCAL CHARITY SHOPS

RELLIK

"I have a great relationship with the staff at some of my favourite shops, and it means they’ll let me upstairs or into the backroom to look at pieces that aren’t on the shop floor yet. I get tips from them, too, and hear about when the best stuff’s coming in. Plus, it just makes the experience a lot more fun."

PORTOBELLO MARKET

Portobello’s vintage clothing market is famous around the world, drawing specialists from across the UK and Europe to come and show their wares every weekend. Head there early on a Friday or Saturday to find the best pieces. “If you go often enough, you get to know the dealers and what sort of eye they have,” says Garnett. “One of my favourite stalls is Selfish Maids, run by Caroline Turner, who’s well known in the vintage world – she curates it every week by colour and style. Other more specialist dealers sell incredible pieces by Ossie Clark, Thea Porter and Christian Dior. The more you go, the more you learn.” Under the Canopy, Portobello Road, Notting Hill, W10 portobellofashionmarket.co.uk

BRITISH RED CROSS IN CHELSEA

Tucked away on Old Church Street, a few doors down from Manolo Blahnik, this British Red Cross is one of Chelsea’s bestkept secrets, full of high-end pieces discarded by well-heeled locals. “It’s one of my favourite charity shops in London - it’s got great men’s shirts and cashmere, because you’ve got that kind of clientele,” says Garnett. “I also once found an incredible Saint Laurent safari suit from 1969 in there. It’s quite conventional,which can be a relief sometimes for a charity shop. Whether it’s your style or not is a different matter, but all the stuff is high quality.” 69-71 Old Church Street, Chelsea, SW3 redcross.org.uk

"The more thrift shopping you do, the more you learn about what you like and what you don’t. For example, I’ve got some amazing old Jaeger pieces that I’ve collected over the years. Jaeger in the 70s made things beautifully, such as these incredible tweed coats. Now I always keep an eye out for Jaeger pieces when I’m vintage shopping. It’s also good to look out for pieces made by the original designers who founded the labels – I get a thrill if I see Calvin Klein clothes from the 80s or Emanuel Ungaro silk shirts, and early Barbour pieces are always great, too."

PRADA

Peep Toe Sandals

HERMES

Clic-Clac H Bracelet

FIND A GOOD TAILOR

"If you really fall in love with a piece but it doesn’t fit quite as you’d like, remember you can always get it altered – a good tailor can make all the difference. I usually end up getting tops taken out, because I’m not a sample size, and I’ll ask my tailor to add an extra panel in. It doesn’t matter if it’s not perfect; that can be part of the charm of a unique piece."

WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, GO ONLINE

"Part of the reason why I love charity shops and vintage stores is because you don’t know what you’re going to find, but if you do want to get specific with what you’re looking for then I’d recommend going online. The other day I was looking for a particular leopard-print Supreme shirt - I typed it into eBay (ebay.co.uk) and when it came in, I bought it. I also love Vestiaire Collective (vestiairecollective. com), which is more for the fashion crowd - that’s where I’d go if I was looking for some 90s Gaultier, for example - and Depop (depop.com) is brilliant for democratising the world of secondhand. My daughter uses it to sell her stuff and I love how it’s empowering kids to embrace fashion circularity."

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Watch & Jewellery Notes

The latest launches and most covetable new pieces to have on your radar C o m p i l e d b y MING LIU

W A X LY R I C A L

The young British designer Liv Luttrell spent lockdown deep diving into the ancient art of lost wax carving, where jewels are handcrafted in wax and cast into metal. The result being four new rings in Luttrell’s signature sculptural style, and finished in a mix of brushed and polished, responsibly sourced silver. From £390 livluttrell.com

B R I G H T S PA R K S

Channelling the mood of mentorship that’s sweeping across fashion, Gucci has announced a special jewellery capsule collection for Vault, its new online concept store, that highlights the work of 12 up-and-coming, need-to-know designers, such as Charlotte Chesnais, pictured. From £425 gucci.com

Shine On

CROWNING GLORY Heart-shaped diamonds are hard enough to come by – they take extraordinary skill and experience to cut. So, leave it to Graff to centre its new Infinity Tiara around this jaw-dropping 157.8-carat heart-shaped stone, accompanied by a further 18 smaller ones – all of which are cut from a single 373 carat rough. POA graff.com

JEWEL TONES

The Nigerian-British jeweller Aurelia & Pierre has unveiled its first high-jewellery collection – a joyful ode to colour, with glorious pieces like this cuff bracelet set with an 87-carat custom-cut fluorite that recalls the palm fronds in founder Amokeye’s childhood home in Lagos. £28,000 aureliaandpierre.com

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WA T C H E S & J E W E L L E R Y

SUPER NATURAL

Design Matters

The branch-like inclusions in dendritic agate were the starting point for Venyx’s latest Dryada collection, which nods to nature and the dryad tree nymphs in Greek mythology. Iron oxide and manganese naturally cause sylvan-like textures in the stone, which Venyx creative director Eugenie Niarchos saw as miniature landscapes, and paired them with gold, tourmaline, diamond, black rhodium, sapphire and amethyst for sublime, cameo-like creations. From £4,080 venyxworld.com

A RT & SOU L Chic, minimalist nods to Barbara Hepworth and Donald Judd course through the off-beat designs of Isabel Bonner, whose architectural jewellery is more akin to sculpture and objet d’art. Cue oversized silver rings inlaid with petrified wood, or these rakish earrings (from $450) in a grooved finish and topped with pearls. Bonner’s designs have an unmistakably urban, multidisciplinary vibe – flitting between furniture, art, painting, sculpture and architecture – with Bonner herself based between New York and London. isabelbonnerstudio.com

LIGHT FA NTASTIC

A night sky alight with hundreds of floating lanterns inspired Piaget’s latest suite of jewels for its highjewellery collection Extraordinary Lights. Glowing green tourmalines in cushion and baguette cuts are sprinkled with marquise-cut yellow diamonds and chrysoprase beads as a magnificent Voluptuous Borealis watch. Set with asymmetric rows of baguette-cut emeralds and diamonds, it’s enchanted by the Aurora Borealis, underscoring Piaget as the cuff watch creator par excellence. POA

piaget.com

T H E G L O S S A RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / WATC H E S -J E W E L L E R Y

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GUCCI 18kt White Gold, Purple Sapphire & Diamond Pendant, POA gucci.com HIRSH 18kt Gold & Diamond Celestial Orion Ring, £6,000 hirshlondon.com

BIBI VAN DER VELDEN 18kt Gold, Opal, Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Green Tsavorite & Tahitian Pearl Galaxy Cocktail Ring, £19,517 bibivandervelden.com

High Jewellery

STAR STAR GAZING NG Celestial skies and midnight galaxies blaze across this season’s high jewellery collections, from sparkling constellations to luminescent moons

W o r d s SARAH ROYCE-GREENSILL

ince the dawn of time, humans have looked to the skies for guidance and inspiration. The Babylonians divided the zodiac into 12 signs in the first millennium BC, crystallising the notion that our personalities and fate are written in the stars. Our fascination with the cosmos has influenced jewellers for millennia: ancient Greeks and Romans paid homage to gods and goddesses of the sun, moon and stars in their golden talismans. The Victorians were besotted with diamond-set crescent moons and stars, which represented wisdom and direction in jewels rife with symbolism. Modern science hasn’t quelled our desire to seek meaning in the stars. Astrologists report a boom in business since the pandemic and the politically tumultuous years that preceded it, as clients crave guidance from a higher power. And celestial motifs have infiltrated our wardrobes and jewellery boxes: online searches for ‘zodiac necklace’ have climbed over the last five years, peaking last December, with over double the number of searches compared to 2015.

CHAUMET 18kt White Gold & Diamond Étoile Étoile Earrings, POA chaumet.com

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“Humankind has always been fascinated by the unreachable sky and what lies beyond. Stars guided explorers through the seas and offered direction when they were lost,” says Sabine Roemer, the London-based jeweller whose creations include a showstopping pair of chandelier earrings featuring sapphire-set exploding stars strung from a diamond and sapphire crescent moon. “In a way, hope is still written in the sky,” she continues. “Gazing at the stars and feeling connected to loved ones gives us a sense of closeness and belief. I believe in celestial symbols and that feeling of connection with our mysterious universe.” Diamond-set stars appear on blackened-gold earrings, cocktail rings and hairpins at Jessica McCormack, recalling the oxidised silver stars of the Victorian era. An antique aesthetic also influences Parisian maison Chaumet. A diamondset crescent moon aigrette from 1880 and a 1912 platinum and diamond star tiara are among the archival designs that inspired Les Ciels de Chaumet, a high jewellery tribute to all things celestial. The Etoile Etoile tiara uses fil-couteau settings so that shooting stars appear to soar above the wearer’s head, and chandelier earrings feature falling stars that trail brilliant-cut diamonds in their wake. Stargazing also adds a divine dimension to Alessandro Michele’s latest high jewellery designs for Gucci. Exuberant coloured gemstone cocktail rings, brooches and earrings are finished with a smattering of eight-pointed shooting stars, undoubtedly influenced by the creative director’s love of antique jewellery.

NOOR FARES 18kt Yellow Gold, Diamond & Pearl Spiral Moon Earrings, £3,250, noorfares.com

CHANEL 18kt White & Yellow Gold, Diamond, Yellow Sapphire & Lapis Lazuli Constellation Astrale Necklace, POA chanel.com

OLE LYNGGAARD COPENHAGEN 18kt Gold, Aquamarine, Moonstone, Lapis Lazuli, Rutile Quartz, Tourmaline & Diamond Shooting Stars Earring, £5,370 net-a-porter.com

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS 18kt White & Yellow Gold, Sapphire, Lapis Lazuli & Diamond Galilée Lapis Between-The-Finger Ring, POA vancleefarpels.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

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The eight-pointed star is a signature motif for Dior, whose Rose des Vents collection was inspired by the founder’s lucky charm, a wind rose. The tiny talisman appears on hardstone medallions or against a background of pavé-set diamonds, each iteration more charming than the last. Tasaki offers a contemporary take on the timeless motif: pearls are suspended within graphic stars in ear cuffs and asymmetric rings. Venyx studs an opulent opal sky with twinkling diamonds in the Milky Way pendant, while Noor Fares uses luminescent pearls to represent the moon at the centre of her blackened-gold spiral earrings. Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen’s shooting star designs range from simple stud earrings to an entire solar system of hardstone planets and diamond comets that skyrocket up the earlobe. “I love all that is on high: the sky, the moon. I believe in the stars,” said Gabrielle Chanel; a belief that parlayed into her first and only high jewellery collection. The 1932 Bijoux de Diamants exhibition fulfilled her aim to “cover women in constellations”, with diamond-set stars and comets hurtling through hair, around necks and across fingers. The legacy of those designs lives on today: from Chanel’s white-diamond Comète earrings to the yellow sapphire five-pointed stars that twinkle within a lapis-lazuli sky in the Constellation Astrale high jewellery necklace. “The magic of the night sky has always captured my imagination,” says Dutch jeweller Bibi van der Velden, whose recent relocation to Portugal reignited her fascination with the solar system. “I live in a protected area of forest by the sea, with no light pollution; the night is so dark and the stars are so bright. I sit on my balcony, look upwards, and lose myself in the captivating beauty of the universe.” Her Galaxy collection features

CHANEL 18k White Gold, Diamonds & Cultured Pearls Comète Perlée Ear Cuff, £8,200 chanel.com

ADLER 18kt Pink Gold & Cabochon Opal Nebula Ring, POA adler.ch

VENYX 18kt Yellow Gold, Diamond & Opal Milky Way Necklace, £15,600 venyxworld.com

SABINE ROEMER Blue Sapphire, Iolite & Diamond Mon Etoile Earrings, £12,500 sabineroemer.com

JESSICA McCORMACK 18kt White & Yellow Gold & Diamond Star Ring, £4,600 jessicamccormack.com

WA T C H E S & J E W E L L E R Y

BROOKE GREGSON 14kt Gold & Diamond Astrology Necklace, £1,510 brookegregson.com

PIAGET 18kt White Gold, Ruby & Diamond Blazing Night Ring, POA piaget.com

TASAKI 18kt White Gold, Akoya Pearl & Diamond Comet Ring, £8,190 tasaki.co.uk

DIOR FINE JEWELLERY 18kt White Gold, Diamond & Onyx Rose Des Vents Earrings, £11,900 dior.com

MESSIKA 18kt Yellow Gold & Diamond Lucky Move 3 Fingers Ring, £6,790 messika.com

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS 18kt White & Yellow Gold, Sapphire, Spessartite Garnet, Spinel, Aventurine, Mother-Of-Pearl, Turquoise & Diamonds Planétarium Watch, POA vancleefarpels.com

planets of Tahitian pearl, black opal or fossilised mammoth tusk studded with gemstones and orbited by bejewelled rings. A tactile cocktail ring sees a mesmerising boulder opal circled by tiny stars and planets: a miniature universe for the finger. “Writers, philosophers and poets have made us dream about the skies for centuries,” says Nicolas Bos, CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels. “I’m fascinated by ancient depictions of solar phenomena - there is always some dreamlike dimension.” In the Sous Les Etoiles high jewellery collection, more than 120 fantastical pieces range from figurative depictions of heavenly bodies to more abstract designs that capture the otherworldly colours seen in high-definition astrological photography. “We didn’t want a black and white vision of the skies. Faraway galaxies are an incredible explosion of colour and shapes,” says Bos; the perfect excuse to showcase Fancy coloured diamonds, rich rubies and vibrant emeralds alongside ombrés of coloured sapphires, garnets and tourmalines. Stellar colour play is also in evidence at Piaget, whose Extraordinary Lights collection explores celestial phenomena from dusk to dawn, via the glow of yellow diamonds, midnight-blue sapphires and no-oil Colombian emeralds, which represent the magical glow of the Aurora Borealis. Zodiac-inspired jewellery is where our interest in all things astrological collides with our penchant for personalisation. Brooke Gregson’s matte-gold medallions, sprinkled with diamonds in the shape of constellations, are among her bestselling pieces, allowing wearers to express an aspect of what makes them unique. Van Cleef and Arpels recently launched a range of chunky gold and hardstone zodiac necklaces inspired by an archive design from the 1970s - another period of immense social upheaval when astrology was all the rage. In eras of uncertainty and amid a lack of control, we seek meaning, comfort and connection from the ethereal. “We have all grown up with the notion of wishing on a star,” says Bibi Van der Velden. “Jewellery is a wonderful way of capturing a little piece of that magic. I believe that’s why humans will always be drawn to celestial jewels.”

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

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Ocean Watch

From sponsoring scientific expeditions to creating ecologically important, marine-protected areas, luxury watch brands are increasingly committed to ocean preservation

Wo r d s MING LIU

rom diving watches tested at unimaginable depths to the 19th-century marine chronometers that helped map the world’s seas, links between the ocean and horology run deep. With marine-pollution data making ever-uncomfortable reading - according to the UN, an estimated 5 to 12 million tonnes of plastic enters the ocean every year, with 800 marine and coastal species affected – it’s no surprise that marine conservation is close to many watchmakers’ hearts. Leading the charge is Rolex. As one of the world’s most recognised brands, the Swiss watchmaker has a unique platform to raise awareness around protecting our seas. Among its environmental initiatives is Mission Blue, founded in 2009 by Sylvia Earle, the legendary oceanographer and marine explorer, whose connection to Rolex goes back to 1970 (she's often seen diving in her Lady-Datejust or Sea-Dweller). Mission Blue is a grassroots-led organisation that works with people on the ground – from local governments to community organisations – to create a global network of ecologically important, marine-protected areas called Hope Spots. Working with some 70 countries and having established more than 130 Hope Spots to date, Mission Blue is moving towards its goal to help protect 30 percent of the oceans by 2030 2030, which is the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) recommended target for safeguarding ocean health. Other watch brands support marine conservation in their own individual ways. There are the smaller independents like Swiss house Oris, which sponsors ocean and river clean-up days, or the Stockholm-based TRIWA, an upstart that’s an acronym for Transforming the Industry of Watches, which has designed the first ever collection of watches made completely from recycled ocean plastic. Meanwhile, the grand maisons have also established bold initiatives, such as Blancpain, which has partnered with the UN in supporting World Oceans Day. After all, it’s time to make a change.

ROLEX

Deepsea Sea-Dweller £10,350, wempe.com Marine biologist Sylvia Earle has been a pioneer of ocean exploration for over four decades

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WA T C H E S & J E W E L L E R Y

Face Values Turn the tide on ocean pollution with these ethical luxury watches CARL F BUCHERER

Patravi ScubaTec Maldives, £ £4,500

Since 2013, Carl F Bucherer has partnered with the Manta Trust, a non-profit dedicated to protecting manta rays and their habitat. Proceeds of sales for this eye-catching Patravi ScubaTec Maldives watch – in steel with a recycled PET textile strap – go directly to funding the organisation’s new floating research station in the Maldives. But that’s just one element: in November, the Manta Trust concluded a 17-night expedition in the archipelago, entirely funded by Bucherer, which achieved some 200 manta ray sightings and 35 new manta IDs.

carl-f-bucherer.com

BREITLING

Superocean Heritage ’57 Outerknown, £3,400

Breitling’s Superocean Heritage ’57 Outerknown nods to the Swiss house’s original diving watch from 1957 – note the cool, retro styling – while partnering with Outerknown, the sustainable fashion brand of the American surfing champion Kelly Slater, who founded his company with the aim to “make great clothes with a radical commitment to sustainability”. Available in stainless steel, the watch’s strap is made from ECONYL yarn that’s been repurposed from fishing nets and other nylon waste from the ocean.

breitling.com

OMEGA

Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition, £5,280 Omega has some serious ocean-faring credibility: the Swiss house created the first commercially available diving watches and also notably had a starring role in the historic Five Deeps Expedition, the world’s first manned expedition to the deepest point in each of the five oceans. No wonder that the UK charity Nekton wanted to work with the storied watchmaker. The pair have created this steel edition with cool nautical nods: rotating bezel in grade-5 titanium, black ceramic dial with a wave motif and full chronometer certification.

Sylvia during a visit to a Mission Blue Hope Spot at Cabo Pulmo, Los Cabos, Mexico, in 2017

omega.com

PANERAI

Submersible eLAB-ID, £54,000

Panerai is synonymous with the Italian Royal Navy, who have been putting Panerai watches through their paces since the dawn of WWII. Today, the watchmaker is paying homage to that rich nautical history by focusing on sustainability, and this year made a real splash with its ground-breaking Submersible eLAB-ID. Everything about this diver screams eco: the EcoTitanium case and dial, an escapement made from 100 percent recycled silicon, while the white-gold hands, Super-Luminova and PET strap are all recycled, too.

panerai.com

T H E G L O S S A RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / WATC H E S -J E W E L L E R Y

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drsebagh.com

The one you love.

Fall in love with the super-serum containing the highest percentage of active, bio-tech ingredients available in any skin care product. Dr Sebagh Supreme Maintenance Youth Serum helps to unveil fresher, firmer and more radiant-looking skin with “youth molecule” Resveratrol, hyaluronic acid, three anti-ageing peptides and a pollution filter.

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BEAUTY

Christian Dior Parfums

ACE OF BASE When Dior launched Dior Forever in 2007, the high-coverage perfection foundation became an instant beauty hit. Fifteen years on, it’s been reinvented for a new generation. The foundation now comes in two clean formulas - Forever, which promises a lastingly smooth, even complexion, and Forever Skin Glow for 24-hour luminosity and radiance. dior.com

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Beauty Notes

Skincare supercharged, the game-changing lipstick device and Pat McGrath’s Regency era-inspired makeup C o m p i l e d b y C H A R LOT T E A DS E T T

T I M E TO SH I N E

Cult skincare brand Augustinus Bader has turned its attention to haircare with The Hair Collection. Comprising five products, The Scalp Treatment, The Shampoo, The Conditioner, The Hair Oil and The Leave-In Hair Treatment, each one fuses Bader’s signature transformative science with clean, additive-free ingredients to boost volume and shine. augustinusbader.com

MIX IT UP

YSL Beauty’s latest innovation is a game changer. The Rouge Sur Mesure at-home device incorporates the latest technology, allowing you to create up to 4,000 different lipstick shades. Choose from four colour cartridge sets, connect to the dedicated app and blend, before the tool dispenses your chosen hue in a creamy, velvet-matte finish. £250; yslbeauty.co.uk

Subscription Service

BOX OF DELIGHTS

Liberty has just launched The Beauty Drop, a subscription beauty box with a difference… Subscribers pay £20 per month to receive an expertly-curated box every three months, each one packed with beauty products totalling £300 across the year. The twist? The monthly fee paid is fully redeemable against future purchases in store or online. libertylondon.com

DR EE M COM E T RU E

With the new year a time to focus on self-care, Dreem Distillery has added two products to its line of CBD solutions to aid sleep - Into e Deep, a pre-bed aromatherapeutic bath oil, and Among e Stars, a lightweight body oil combining calming botanicals and essential oils known for their soporific effects.

dreemdistillery.co.uk

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

REGENCY BEAUTY To mark Season 2 of Bridgerton, out this March, make-up artist extraordinaire Pat McGrath has teamed up with Netflix and production company Shondaland to launch a limited-edition cosmetic collection. Inspired by the romance of the Regency era, the capsule includes a skin highlighter, trio of blushes and an eyeshadow palette to flatter every skin tone. patmcgrath.com

Scents of Style

Spanish fashion house Loewe has expanded its home fragrance range with a new line of bar and liquid soaps. The collection, influenced by the Ancient Greek and Roman practice of integrating botanical essences with therapeutic properties into their bathing rituals, comes in three scents - Oregano, reminiscent of a Mediterranean garden; sweet and woody Liquorice; and Scent of Marihuana, encapsulating the fresh herbal aroma of the sativa plant. loewe.com

Savin g Face Beauty editor-approved British ethical brand Aurelia has led the way with probiotic skincare since its inception in 2013 and continues to do so - its natural, results-driven skincare particularly ideal for those with sensitive skin and inflammatory issues. The gentle twice-daily 3-Step Probiotic Routine, which consists of the Miracle Cleanser, Revitalise & Glow Serum and Cell Revitalise Day or Night Moisturiser (left) will transform skin. For those looking to supercharge their skincare routine, we recommend the CBD Super Serum + Probiotics and The Probiotic Concentrate (right) which activate and boost the skin’s natural repair process and the production of collagen to deliver deep hydration and improve signs of pigmentation and ageing.

aurelialondon.com

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

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My Beauty Glossary

The

WINTER SKINCARE EDIT As the temperature plummets, our skin needs an extra dose of TLC. Alessandra Steinherr shares her tried-and-tested skincare saviours for the cold season

egardless of your skin type, winter takes its toll. Whether it’s from the cold weather outside or the central heating inside, skin can end up dehydrated and feeling tight, uncomfortable and irritated. You’d think the solution is a richer moisturiser, but while this might work for some, it’s not the answer. The first thing to do is switch to a soap and sulphate-free, non-foaming cleanser. I get that we love the feeling of a squeaky-clean face, but lathering cleansers have an alkaline pH, which can strip away the acid mantle, the barrier that protects skin from drying out. And always use lukewarm water to rinse rather than hot, as hot water pulls moisture out of the skin. But the real secret to properly hydrated winter skin is a three-step layering approach, morning and night - almost like a mille-feuille. The first layer is a moisturising essence - an essence is a very light liquid treatment that you pat on your face after cleansing. It is packed full of humectants (waterattracting ingredients, such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid, which you want closest to your skin. Then, while still damp, apply a serum. Why? Serums hold a high percentage of actives and by layering them next,

it’s a great way of getting maximum benefits. There are many serums, but we are going to focus on hydration, skin barrier protection and repair. The third layer will be your moisturiser. To prevent the evaporation of water from your skin, you want a combination of humectants (such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin and panthenol), emollients (skin softeners such as squalene and tricylerides) and occlusives (shea and cocoa butter). The latter form a protective barrier, locking in moisture beneath. I tend to use a facial oil at night on top of my moisturiser. For me, this is more of an unwinding ritual. Likewise, masks are extra pamper time. Go for a rich cream mask over a sheet mask for nourishment. I like to do a mine in the evening after cleansing, but before applying the hydrating layers. Finally, approach your bodycare like your face. Skin can get very dry because we wear so many clothes when it’s cold, and fabric absorbs moisture. Again, keep the shower water lukewarm, use a gentle soap and layer your body serum under a body cream. As the cold season takes hold, these are my winter skincare heroes.

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

CLEANSERS

Clé de Peau Beauté Softening Cleansing Foam (£50) might have a thick lather, but it won’t leave skin feeling tight. It’s particularly good for dull complexions, as it helps retain the skin’s natural moisture, leaving it glowy and smooth. For drier skin, try Augustinus Bader The Cream Cleansing Balm (£58). It feels rich, rather than heavy, melting into skin to remove impurities and make-up, leaving it really conditioned. Dr Lara Devgan Advanced Revitalising Cleanser (£60) is enriched with antioxidants to replenish and rejuvenate, as well as soothing aloe and botanical extracts - a great allrounder. If you’re on the combination or oily side, MZ Skin Cleanse & Clarify (£58) is a lightweight formula that gives that clean feeling without being squeaky.

ESSENCES

Omorovicza Omoressence (£68) is a very gentle essence that has a lovely softening effect. It is non-irritating, and I really like the ingredients, which include silicium to boost the skin’s elasticity, as well as amino acids and natural emollients. Sensai Cellular Performance Essence (£81) is formulated with hyaluronic acid, which literally saturates the skin with moisture, restoring firmness and plumpness. Although Estée Lauder Micro Essence Skin Activating Treatment Lotion (£70) feels like water, it contains ferments, which help strengthen and nourish. I like to press it in with my hands, rather than using a cotton pad. The SK-II Facial Treatment Essence (£131) is a bestseller for a reason - it gives a light layer of hydration to energise and brighten the skin.

SERUMS

If you tend to get redness and inflammation in winter, Venn Probiotics Cica Complex Biome Booster (£153) is incredibly soothing (cica is known for its calming properties) for sensitive, stressed complexions. Noble Panacea Intense Renewal Serum (£390) comes in single doses, and is more about firming, lifting and tightening if you feel your skin is a bit slack. Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum (from £43) also comes in single-dosage capsules. This is one of the best products out there. Ceramide levels deplete with age and this light formula enhances skin barrier repair function and increases moisturisation. RéVive Peau Magnifique Serum (£585) is your serious, advanced anti-ageing product. It is also really hydrating, promising to restore facial fullness.

MOISTURISERS

La Mer Moisturising Cream (£245) is the quintessential winter moisturiser. It has that thickness and occlusivity to it that you need to prevent epidermal water loss and is incredibly soothing. If you prefer a balm consistency, turn to Pietro Simone Skin-Alert Unguent (£65) - I would use this at night for extreme dryness, or skin that has been compromised in the cold weather. Givenchy Le Soin Noir Crème (£289) has a velvety texture that also makes skin feel really comfortable, plus it contains algae, a skincare powerhouse that works on fine lines and wrinkles.

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

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OILS

La Mer The Renewal Oil (£195) is a beautiful, light oil, making it suitable for people who don’t have super-dry skin. It has the Miracle Broth in it, which is proprietary to La Mer, and is packed with nutrients and minerals. If you want the anti-ageing action of a retinoid, but without the drying effect, Ren Bio Retinoid Youth Concentrate Oil (£52) is a great plant-based retinol alternative. Tata Harper Beautifying Face Oil (£85) is packed with high-performance botanicals, which both protect from environmental damage and make the skin glow. Everything Marie Reynolds does is for skin integrity, including her Anoint Epidermal Oil (£25) - while essential fatty acids replenish the skin barrier, vitamins A, C and E condition.

MASKS

Sisley Black Rose Cream Mask (£119) is a classic - its soft creamy formula working to replenish lost moisture and revitalise tired skin. Even though it is deeply nourishing, those with combination skin can use it because it doesn’t leave a greasy residue. Royal Fern Phytoactive Hydra-Firm Intense Mask (£140) is refreshing and light. The combination of antioxidant-rich plant extracts, chlorophyll and hyaluronic acid work together to give life back to skin. I feel more rosy after I use it - my skin comes alive. By contrast, Guerlain Orchidée Impériale The Mask (£270) is really intensive and feels mega indulgent. It has been developed for skin that has been damaged by environmental stress, leaving it comforted. It’s quite incredible.

LIPS

Rouge Hermès Lip Care Balm (£58) is a really chic balm for daytime. Infused with a high concentration of beeswax and candelilla wax, it’s nourishing yet works really well under lipstick, as it’s not greasy. Sarah Chapman Overnight Lip Concentrate (£34) is an anti-ageing conditioning balm with face-care-grade ingredients including hyaluronic acid, omegas and peptides, meaning it hydrates, conditions and boosts lip volume. Another product for using overnight is Estée Lauder Nighttime Rescue Lip Oil-Serum (£26). It is enriched with oils such as camellia, rose and lavender, so it’s fantastic if you’ve got severely dry lips. Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm (£19.50) is formulated with vegan waxes, has a gorgeous vanilla scent and really plumps the lips.

BODY

You want to exfoliate once a week, and By Terry Baume de Rose Body Scrub (£54) is beautiful. Sugar crystals gently buff the skin, and the combination of rose butter, rosehip oil and rose essential wax leaves skin super soft and smelling divine. Bioeffect EGF Body Serum (£85) is a brilliant moisture-booster, and you get an anti-ageing, firming action, too. Susanne Kaufmann Restorative Toning Body Cream (£130) has a rich, creamy texture that seals in all the moisture. You have to wait a few minutes before getting dressed, but it’s worth it. Sisley Velvet Nourishing Body Cream (£102) is a favourite I always return to - the non-sticky, non-greasy formula contains saffron flower extract to soothe dry skin, while shea butter and oils leave it wonderfully supple.

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Cell revitalise day + Night moisturiser

Winter S k i n ca r e S av i o u r s Combine chilly temperatures with central heating and you’ve got a recipe for a dry, dull complexion.

Thankfully,

Aurelia

London's

intensive day and night moisturisers work around the clock to rehydrate, balance and restore. This multi-award-winning duo fuses probiotic ingredients with plant and flower botanicals to hydrate and soothe, transforming the skin’s luminosity and glow. Discover the power of Aurelia’s signature probiotic ingredients that continuously protect, restore and balance the skin from within.

www.aurelialond on.com

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SHANI DARDEN

Facial Sculpting Wand, £430

A first-of-its-kind facial-sculpting wand formulated by Hollywood-based aesthetician Shani Darden. Based around Shani’s signature vibration therapy, the device harnesses highperformance soundwave technology. For best results, watch Shani’s facialsculpting routines on her website, before gliding the device over your face for 10 minutes daily. This enables acoustic sound waves to penetrate the skin’s outer layers and stimulate the muscles, boosting circulation and optimising oxygen uptake, leaving you with a firmer, tighter and noticeably smoother complexion.

shanidarden.com

Skin Deep

Alessandra Steinherr’s pick of the high-tech at-home tools that will revolutionise your hair and skincare routine

’m a huge believer in beauty tech. Over the past couple of years, we’ve seen so many more high-technology devices for the face and body because we have spent so much more time at home. Of course, some products work better than others. But the bottom line about these tools I have chosen is that they make a true difference - they really do. They’re simultaneously preventative and restorative, working towards achieving your best skin and hair ever. However, in order to get maximum efficacy, you have to be consistent. It’s my eternal analogy, but it is like going to the gym. You aren’t going to see a change unless you stick to it. Try a beauty device once and it won’t work - this isn’t about instant results, it’s all about the long-term. From an intensive LED light mask and a microcurrent skin-toning device to a breakthrough clinic-grade laser, this is my edit of the high-tech skincare tools for at-home use.

RÉDUIT

Spa Gold Luxurious Skincare & Haircare Treatment Device, £279 This is a very forward-thinking, futuristic piece of beauty tech. It’s a completely new delivery system that helps skin and hair absorb treatments deeper and faster - it utilises magnetic misting technology to push the actives where you need them, delivering 100% coverage. You buy the pods you want - whether a hydro boost for skin or colour protection for hair - and it delivers, with zero wastage.

reduit.com

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FACEGYM

Medi Lift Eye Rejuvenating EMS Eye Mask, £350

This mask is specifically designed to strengthen the eye area, using painless electrical muscle stimulation (EMS). Put it on for 10 minutes, during which time the mask sends electrical impulses to the orbital muscles, causing them to involuntarily contract, giving you an instantly lifted appearance - though it’s obviously not long-term. It comes with a collagen infusion serum, which helps the rejuvenation.

facegym.com

THE LIGHT SALON

Boost LED Face Mask, £395

LED light therapy is one of the best things you can do for your skin and overall health. The red and near-infrared wavelengths emitted in this face mask regenerate the skin’s cells and accelerate repair, tackling acne to wrinkles, but they are also a real mood-booster. Plus, it is so convenient to use - wear it for 15 minutes a day, while you get on with something else.

thelight-salon.com

LYMA SYSTEM

The Lyma Laser, £1,999

The Lyma Laser is a first for at-home beauty - a cold laser light, which works on a cellular level, with zero damage. It penetrates deep into the skin, muscle and fat, making it eﬀective on fine lines, pigmentation, acne, rosacea, scars and thread veins, and it can even improve bruising. This is definitely an investment, but you get a clinic-grade performance for everyday home use.

lyma.life

NUFACE

Nubody Skin Toning Device, £383

ZIIP

Nano Current Device, £425

Essentially what this facial device does is emit tiny, painless electric currents - nano and microcurrents - which kickstart your skin’s cellular renewal. What’s clever is that you link your device to an app on your phone, and you can select guided programmes to target specific issues, including pigmentation, dullness or breakouts. Use it every day for tone, definition and a glowing boost.

This microcurrent body device works by emitting low-level electrical currents that mirror the body’s own natural impulses. The gentle, non-painful ﬂow stimulates the production of collagen and elastin and strengthens muscles, toning and tightening them, leading to a more lifted look over time. Use daily - with slow movements and medium pressure - over target treatment areas such as cellulite or sagging skin.

cultbeauty.co.uk

net-a-porter.com

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

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HIGH NOTES Fall in love with this season’s new fragrances C o m p i l e d b y C H A R LOT T E A DS E T T

COURRÈGES C, Slogan, Seconde Peau, La Fille de L’Air, Empreinte

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, €115 each A year after naming Nicolas Di Felice as its new artistic director, the Parisian label founded by André and Coqueline Courrèges in 1961, has made another fresh start, this time with its perfume range. Fifty years since launching its first fragrance, Empreinte, the fashion house has launched five new perfumes, including a revamped version of the original 1971 scent. Warming ambrox is at the base of each fragrance, with the standout being the woody, musky Slogan, which was created by master perfumer Annick Menardo. It’s joined by Seconde Peau and C, as well as a remastered version of its bestselling 2015 scent La Fille de l’Air, for a chic collection housed in a glossy reimagining of the iconic bottles. courreges.com 58

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Loubiluna

FRAGRANCE DU BOIS Secret Tryst

Eau de Parfum, 90ml, £250 The French shoe designer has launched three new fragrances for the Loubiworld collection. Imagined by celebrated perfumer Christophe Raynaud, there’s Loubicharm, Loubiprince and, lastly, Loubiluna, a woody, oriental scent infused with musky undertones such as fig milk, cedarwood and fi nishing on a base of papyrus. Bold and opulent, this is one to bring out after dark. harrods.com

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £285 Fragrance du Bois has released two new scents as part of its For Lovers Collection - Cavort and Secret Tryst, the latter’s arresting scent featuring invigorating bergamot and citrus blended with sensual cedarwood and sweet vanilla alongside the raw, earthy musk of vetiver and frankincense. Perfect for your next romantic rendezvous. fragrancedubois.com

SHALINI Fleur Japonais

GUCCI A Gloaming Night

Pure Perfume, 100ml, £1,100 In Fleur Japonais, the New York-based perfume house Shalini pays tribute to the sakura season in Japan – a celebration of life – when the country becomes a sea of pale pink as the cherry trees come into bloom. In this exquisite perfume, the delicate scent of cherry blossom and heady aroma of magnolia flowers is underscored with smokier, darker notes of frankincense, and tempered with leathery labdanum and sandalwood. harrods.com

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £285 Part of the Italian fashion house’s Alchemist’s Garden line, this cinnamon-forward scent is designed to encapsulate the fleeting moment between dusk and evening. Inspired by the colours and tones of spectacular sunsets, master perfumer Alberto Morillas drew on the art of alchemy to create the distinctive blend, which combines the intensity of patchouli and the woody warmth of vetiver. gucci.com

JO MALONE Velvet Rose & Oud Cologne Intense

D.S. & DURGA Grapefruit Generation

Eau de Parfum, 50ml, £148 The independent Brooklynbased fragrance house was “inspired by an inspired time” - the 60s - when it came to creating its latest scent. Referencing an era of exploration including psychedelics and mythic Eastern poetry, this sparkling citrus scent has the freshness of grapefruit at its heart, while notes of jasmine, pomelo, elm leaf and tuberose add layers of rich ﬂoral complexity. dsanddurga.com

Eau de Cologne, 50ml, £92 Jo Malone has added to the sumptuous Cologne Intense collection with this special edition iteration of its Velvet Rose & Oud. Rich and textural, the exotic-floral scent opens with a top note of spicy clove, while at its heart is darkest damask rose, picked and distilled at dawn to capture its floral intensity. Smoky oud wood rounds off the cologne, which is presented in a beautifully-inscribed deep red glass bottle. jomalone.co.uk T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

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TOM FORD Ébène Fumé

LOUIS VUITTON Spell On You

MAISON CRIVELLI Hibiscus Mahajád

SANTA MARIA NOVELLA Rosa Gardenia

BYREDO Mumbai Noise

THE NUE CO. Mind Energy

Eau de Parfum, 75ml, £178 A characteristically opulent fragrance, this intense scent is inspired by palo santo, the ancient South American ritual of burning wood as an energy cleanser. Palo santo smoke, cherished for its purifying qualities, is combined with citrus and pine to echo the verdant scents of the forest. Black pepper and violet leaf enhance this earthiness, while adding a touch of spice. Smoky, leathery and very seductive. selfridges.co.uk

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £200 Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud has crafted a fragrance of opposites, at once deeply intoxicating and deliciously light. The iris pallida from Florence takes centre stage, its violet notes unfurling with rose from Grasse and sambac jasmine into a fresh, ﬂoral bouquet, accentuated by the powdery accents of acacia ﬂower from Egypt, and all tinged with white musk to add a sultry, sensuous fi nish. louisvuitton.com

Eau de Cologne, 100ml, £110 The storied PerfumePharmacy di Santa Maria Novella traces its roots back 800 years to 13th-century Florence, where it all began with a garden cultivated by Dominican friars, so it seems only fitting that its latest scent is inspired by two ﬂoral powerhouses: the delicate rose and the aromatic gardenia. Combined with notes of bergamot, orange blossom and jasmine, one spritz will transport you to a wildﬂower wonderland. smnovella.com

Extrait de Parfum, 50ml, £200 Here, in the first of a new vegan collection by the French perfume house, in collaboration with star perfumer Quentin Bisch is a celebration of the hibiscus flower. The fruityfloral fragrance, was created to mirror the exoticism of sipping an infusion of the flowering tea while in the heart of a bustling gemstone market. Expect a seductive contrast of rose damascena against notes of leather, spearmint, soft vanilla, cassis and cinnamon, all designed to transport you to shimmering, magical lands. selfridges.co.uk

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £178 Created as an olfactory ode to Byredo founder Ben Gorham’s Indian roots, this visceral fragrance embodies the raucous streets of Mumbai. A scent crowded with contrasts - plummy davana combined with rich leather, bitter coﬀee stirred with sweet tonka beans, rich, warm woods - it calls to mind the city’s street side coﬀee carts and a mystical smoky haze of incense. libertylondon.com 60

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Eau de Parfum, 50ml, £85 Leading supplement brand The Nue Co has launched its third fragrance supplement, which uses revolutionary technology to prompt a shift in emotional states. An invigorating blend of sustainable extracts of clary sage, juniper, pink peppercorn and clove serves to deliver a powerful mental pick-me-up, proven to alleviate the eﬀects of mind fog. Spritz and inhale for eight seconds whenever you need an energy boost. thenueco.com T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

11/01/2022 02:33

T H E G L O S S A RY PA R T N E R S H I P

The

Artof

Gifting Luxury perfume house, The House of Creed, has gifting covered, from private bespoke fragrance consultations to its personalised monogramming service

he House of Creed has gifting down to a fine art. From exclusive scents to exquisite gift sets, the luxury perfume house’s artisan fragrances make for the perfect present, each one formulated using the finest ingredients and traditional techniques passed down from father to son through seven generations. Make magical scent memories with Aventus, a rich, woody fragrance created by Master Perfumer Olivier Creed to mark the House’s 250th anniversary. With its bold, sensual notes - a blend of pink pepper, Italian bergamot and Indonesian patchouli, rounded off with cedarwood and ambergris - it’s the perfect gift for the spirited person in your life. So too, its fresh-floral feminine counterpart Aventus For Her, an opulent, zesty blend inspired by history’s most powerful women. For the ultimate gift inspiration, book a private fragrance consultation at the Creed Boutique in Mayfair, where highly trained experts can guide you through the House’s olfactory offerings, and where they offer a bespoke monogramming service - engraving a message, date or initials on the fragrance bottle ensures a personalised touch for a loved one. And why stop at fragrance? This season, in what is a first for the brand, The House of Creed presents a unique leather Explorer Collection developed in collaboration with Master Perfumer Olivier Creed. Available exclusively at the Boutique, it’s a gift that makes scents. Creed Boutique, 99 Mount Street, Mayfair, W1K 2TF creedfragrances.co.uk

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THE WORLD’S MOST SOPHISTIC ATED FRAGRANCES

fragrancedubois.com

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OUAI

MELROSE PLACE Velvety-Rich Rose, £32 cultbeauty.com

CREED

BIRMANIE OUD Woody Oud & Tonka Bean, £100 creedfragrances.co.uk

VILSHENKO

WINTER DOLL Cinnamon, Clove & Incense, £120 libertylondon.com

LES SENTEURS

DIPTYQUE

FORÊT FORAY Earthy Vetiver, Cedar & Oakmoss, £48 lessenteurs.com

PARIS Spicy Vanilla & Myrrh, £75 net-a-porter.com

AN New E FLAME

From CLASSIC cosy to SEDUCTIVELY smoky, this season’s scented candles ENCAPSULATE the spirit of WINTER AUSTIN AUSTIN X MATTHEW RAW

CEDAR ATLAS & YLANG YLANG Cedarwood, Ylang Ylang & Geranium, £120 austinaustinorganic.com

NETTE

CHAI MILK Creamy Chai Latte, Orange & Tonka, £60 nettenyc.com

CIRE TRUDON X THE VAMPIRE'S WIFE BONFIRE Smoky Leather, Cedar & Tobacco, £85 vampireswife.com

EVERMORE

SMOKE Pine Needle, Geranium & Patchouli, £35 evermorelondon.com

SOHO HOME

ROCCA Cloves, Rosemary, Cedarwood, £155 sohohome.com

SUNDAY OF LONDON X IKUKO IWAMOTO

BOTANICAL BODY OIL Amyris, Rose & Camomile, £75 sundayoflondon.com

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HAIR SALON

Hershesons Belgravia

8a West Halkin Street, Belgravia, W1

Hit Refresh L o n d o n’s b e a u t y & we l l b e i n g s c e n e g e t s a re b o o t w i t h t h e s e n ew s p a c e s f ro m l e a d i n g ex p e r t s

hershesons.com

ershesons has always prided itself on tearing up the rulebook. The trailblazing hair brand has replaced the traditional salon with a series of game-changing beauty spaces, which offer much more than a cut, colour or blow-dry. Designed as a home-awayfrom-home, clients can also indulge in beauty treatments from London’s leading therapists, as well as spend time in the co-working space-come-café. Their recently opened standalone flagship in Belgravia is no exception, its sleek, contemporary look complete with marble-topped styling, ultracomplimentary lighting and chic bathrooms with selfie lights. Treatments here are by some of the best beauty and wellness names in the business, including Brows by Suman, Dryby Nails and cosmetic acupuncturist extraordinaire Sarah Bradden.

SKINCARE SPECIALIST

Vico House

6 Percy Street, Fitzrovia, W1

jasminavico.com

cclaimed facialist Jasmina Vico has teamed up with her twin sister Masha Vico to open her first clinic, where the focus is on cleansing and beautifying from the inside out. A long-time favourite of celebrity clients and beauty editors, Vico combines a holistic approach with high-tech skincare to brilliant effect. Inside the chic Fitzrovia clinic, its walls adorned with art that you can buy, clients can enjoy an extensive selection of treatments and consultations, including peels, needling and cutting-edge lasers, alongside advice on gut health and nutrition. The VicoGlow facial is one of Jasmina’s signatures a bespoke treatment that combines a deep cleanse with massage techniques that encourage lymphatic drainage and sculpt the face, before tackling specific skin concerns, from loss of elasticity to persistent breakouts.

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BATHHOUSE

Aire Baths

2-3 Robert Street, Covent Garden, WC2

beaire.com

ollowing a series of successful openings in New York, Barcelona, and Copenhagen, Aire Baths have landed in London, opening a haven in the hubbub of Covent Garden. Tapping into the ancient rituals of bathing, the cavernous, subterranean space is home to several baths of different temperatures and purposes (there’s a caldarium, tepidarium, balneum et al…). Take your candle lit, orange blossomscented thermal tour at your own pace, allowing your mind and muscles to relax.

OSTEOPATHY

NADIA THE OSTEOPATH

GYM

THIRD SPACE MAYFAIR Exclusive, uber-luxe gym Third Space has thrown open the doors to its latest club in the heart of Mayfair. As you’d expect, the attention to detail is stellar, with facial recognition upon entry, and every manner of smart feature and high-tech equipment, including a performance watt bike zone and Eleiko strength training area, all enhanced by UV treated fresh air.

Bad back? Book a session with soughtafter osteopath Nadia Alibhai at her new Ealing clinic, Back 2 Wellbeing. With over 15 years of experience, including working with a roster of actors on film sets around the world, Alibhai’s unique technique and extensive know-how means she can sort out myriad problems. The clinic also offers reflexology, hypnotherapy, massage and sound healing.

22 Clarges Street, Mayfair, W1, thirdspace.london

312 Northfield Avenue, Ealing, W5 nadiatheosteopath.com

HOLISTIC WELLBEING

ANATOMÉ

8 M O T C O M B S T R E E T, B E L G R AV I A , S W 1

The popular health and wellbeing brand continues its roll-out with a new spot on Motcomb Street. The sustainable space, made with repurposed materials, plant-based paints and vintage finds, is home to a private sleep and wellbeing consultation room, and you can also buy all of Anatomé’s supplements and their new home fragrance range here too.

anatome.co

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NEW-GEN BEAUTY With its holistic approach, state-of-the-art technology and talented team of doctors - all offered in a deeply luxurious setting in Mayfair - facial aesthetics clinic Ouronyx is the definition of future-facing beauty

ever before has a medical beauty space felt as akin to a five-star luxury hotel or a private members’ club than it does at Ouronyx. Based on St James’s Street, Mayfair, the new world-class facial aesthetics clinic is the first ever global destination focused exclusively on facial injectables. Here, a team of leading aesthetics doctors, selected as much for their varied, in-depth knowledge and experience as they are for their unique holistic approach, is on hand to determine treatments diagnostically, using state-of-the-art technology and psychological, aesthetic and anatomical markers, including 3D scan and 2D imaging. Following an in-depth one-hour consultation, and in keeping with the clinic’s collaborative approach, doctors then devise an individual care plan. With longevity the Ouronyx mission, there’s a particular emphasis at the clinic on empowering women over a certain age to become more confident in their own skin. Whether digitalising client medical records - making them accessible across Ouronyx locations, including a

new clinic set to open at the Opus in Dubai early this year - or offering a cutting-edge hair-loss prevention treatment, technology is at the fore which, when combined with the team’s exceptional medical skills and the bespoke service, means highly effective, next-to-natural results for each and every client. The beautifully designed, minimalist space, where sleek furniture meets modern, interactive art by British artist Dominic Harris feels a world away from a sterile clinic. Spread over two floors, a series of injecting suites - all of which include a large screen to see first-hand how treatments are progressing - fan out from a central atrium, where clients can have postprocedure make-up applied by a professional, should they wish. “Our unique approach to aesthetics prioritises our clients as individuals, and their motivations,” explains entrepreneur and psychology professor Ida Banek, who co-founded Ouronyx with healthcare mogul Marc Princen. “We deliver the very best, natural results, which celebrate and enhance individual beauty.” Welcome to the new age of aesthetics…

Creative Consultant Caroline Issa, who works to expand perceptions of what it means to be beautiful, is the face of Ouronyx

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T H E G L O S S A RY PA R T N E R S H I P

MEET THE EXPERTS Ouronyx offers a holistic approach to injectables using state-of-the-art technology and access to some of the worlds most renowned aesthetics doctors

Dr Iman Nurlin

The newest member of the team, Dr Nurlin, brings with her a wealth of expertise. The multi-awardwinning aesthetic practitioner, who has a background in psychiatry, is highly sought after for her holistic approach and next-to-natural results, and is a firm believer in the “full face approach” whereby she uses a combination of treatments to harmonise facial features. “I approach every client in a personalised way, by listening to their unique story.”

Dr Marco Nicoloso

INJECTABLES The Liquid Lift is Ouronyx’s star treatment. A minimally invasive procedure, it combines dermal fillers with neuromodulators - an injectable that relaxes and softens the skin by restricting the facial muscles from contracting. This works to erase fine lines and wrinkles, restore and lift any areas where volume has been significantly lost, and define the chin and jawline structure - resulting in a natural, fresh look that will last between 12 to 24 months, depending on the area treated. ENERGY DEVICES Ouronyx uses Secret RF, a new fractional radio frequency system, which combines radiofrequency and microneedling to kick-start the production of skin-boosting collagen and cell renewal - after just one treatment. The technology means that the depths of the needles can be adjusted, so treatments are tailored to individual needs, such as fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars, and photoaging. With downtime at a minimum, optimal results are visible three to six months after your last appointment.

MICROGRAFTING Whether it is caused by hormonal or hereditary factors, hair loss and thinning in both men and women can be traumatic. While there may be no magic solution to regaining a full head of hair, Ouronyx offers Autologous Micrografting Technology (AMT), a pioneering new treatment that improves the look of existing follicles. The innovative technology uses clients’ own scalp skin to slow down hair loss and stimulate growth. Performed under local anesthetic in an hour-long procedure, tiny skin grafts are taken from the hairline, spun to extract progenitor cells and growth factors, before being mixed with a saline solution and injected back into the areas where hair is thinning. It’s virtually pain-free, leaving no scarring, and following one treatment, any sparse spots on the head will feel thicker and fuller after just three months. To book a complimentary consultation, visit ouronyx.com or call 0204 542 1697 20 St James’s Street, Mayfair, SW1A 1ES

After moving to England from Italy, where he switched careers from gynaecology to aesthetics, Dr Nicoloso completed a Master of Science degree in Aesthetic Medicine at the Queen Mary University of London. His specialism lies in a subtle, less-is-more approach that restores symmetry and balance to the face. “Feeling confident means looking like yourself, so you can expect results that will make you feel refreshed rather than completely different.”

Dr Liesel Holler

With a background in intensive care, general and cardiothoracic surgery, both in Sweden and the UK, Dr Holler decided to move into aesthetics a decade ago, now specialising in advanced medical procedures. Her scrupulous attention to detail, a focus on collagen regeneration, and her signature gentle approach all work together to help maintain and restore the youthful definition of the face.

A practicing GP, Dr Singh has a particular interest in non-surgical facial rejuvenation. Having trained alongside some of the industry greats, he has since built up a loyal customer base thanks to his renowned technical skill and cosmetic vision when it comes to facial contouring, volume replacement and skincare. “Our treatments are low on recovery time but big on results that honour your existing, unique beauty.”

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

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Dr Rashpal Singh

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STAR APPEAL This season’s new restaurants serve up a delicious dose of glamour. Not least the glittering reimagining of storied Mayfair restaurant Langan’s. Once patronised by the likes of Mick Jagger, Princess Grace and Elizabeth Taylor in its 70s and 80s heyday, the halcyon times look set to return with a brasserie-luxe menu (think steak Diane, fresh macaroni with lobster and Crêpes Suzette), raw seafood bar and an invitation-only upstairs bar. Hilary Armstrong reviews the best openings across the capital on page 72. langansbrasserie.com

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Tasting Notes The new openings and

places to know across the capital this season

PASSION FOR PASTA

Fritto misto, seasonal spritzes and fresh pasta will be on the menu at ex-Bancone chef Louis Korovilas’ neighbourhood restaurant Noci when it opens on Islington Green in February. His version of classic Roman cacio e pepe with brown butter will be a steady presence while the daily specials fly out.

4-6 Islington Green, N1 nocirestaurant.co.uk

C o m p i l e d b y H I L A RY A R M ST RO N G

Mezcal by Mail

At Kol in Marylebone, the drinks are as much as part of the experience as Santiago Lastra’s dazzling modern Mexican cooking. Now you can enjoy them at home, as Kol launches its online boutique with an exclusive selection of bespoke house mezcals (from £86) and low-intervention wines from cult Slovakian winemaker Slobodne (£34). Delivery nationwide.

kolrestaurant.store

BECAUSE THE NIGHT The late great French chef Joël Robuchon was never afraid to tear up the rulebook. His irreverent spirit lives on at Le Comptoir Robuchon in Mayfair where Michelin star cuisine now comes with a side order of live music and DJs. ‘Les Nuits Robuchon’ happen every Thursday, Friday and Saturday, and will extended across the brand’s new openings in Ayia Napa, Marrakech and beyond. The restaurant-as-club trend is here to stay. 6 Clarges Street, Mayfair, W1 robuchonlondon.co.uk

The Social Set

LALEE-DA! The LaLee, the new all-day café restaurant at The Belmond Cadogan Hotel on Sloane Street takes its inspiration from the European travels of socialite and royal mistress Lillie Langtry (whose Blue Plaque adorns the hotel façade). Lobster cocktail, omelette Arnold Bennett, beef Wellington and rum baba would have appealed to her hedonistic spirit. 75 Sloane Street, Chelsea, SW1 thelalee.co.uk

FLOWER POWER

Plant-Based Pleasure

Chef Matthew Kenney has amassed a huge following for his innovative plantbased cuisine in the US. Now, he’s coming to London, to the second floor of Selfridges, where Adesse will serve jackfruit ‘crab cakes’ with smoked red pepper rémoulade, kimchi dumplings with foamed ginger, and kelp noodle cacio e pepe. Opens in January. selfridges.com

The Flowerhouse on Blandford Street (next door to Chiltern Firehouse) is a female-focused take on the traditional English public house from Jo Jackson (former CCO at made.com) and the team behind the Light Bar. On the menu: pub grub with ‘a fresh, flexitarian twist’. On the agenda: apprenticeships, training schemes and flexible working hours for working mothers and carers of all ages and backgrounds. We’ll raise a glass (a Flowerhouse Spritz) to that. 56 Blandford Street, Marylebone, W1 flowerhouse.pub

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FOOD & DRINK

DESSERT AND A DRAM

This winter, Hotel Café Royal invites you to its ‘Escape to the Valley of the Deer’ pop-up in partnership with Scottish single malt Glenfiddich. Dramatically styled by Berlin floral studio Mary Lennox with preserved grass and dried flowers, the bar dispenses classic whisky cocktails and a limitededition menu, pairing the hotel’s famous desserts with the brands most sought after single malts. Try the Nyangbo chocolate ganache with Glenfiddich Grande Couronne. Until 28 February 10 Air Street, St. James’s, W1 hotelcaferoyal.com T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FO O D - D R I N K

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Restaurant R E V I E W S

Table Talk

The latest arrivals on London’s culinary scene are serving up everything from nostalgia to sustainability, says restaurant editor Hilary Armstrong The

Maine 20 Ha nover S qu a re M ay f a i r, W1 the mai ne may f ai r.c om

he Maine on Hanover Square is a New England brasserie by way of Dubai, whose inspiration comes from Canadian restaurateur Joey Ghazal’s memories of holidaying in New England. Ghazal’s East Coast vacations were evidently more fabulous than most: for amongst the staples - lobster rolls, clam chowder etc - are shaved truffles, caviar, wagyu steak and a vogueish kale caesar. The setting is very smart (the listed townhouse was once home to the Duke of Montrose) but The Maine doesn’t take itself too seriously. Pound-a-shuck oysters, a cocktail happy hour and £35 prix fixe lunches will have the Condé Nast crew from across the square taking up permanent residence, no question. Lunch is taken in the drawing room, a handsome Georgian room with an old-world fireplace and ornamental ceilings and new-world mirrored bar and mother-of-pearl chandeliers. Dinner’s served in the brasserie one floor down, a brasserie like no brasserie I’ve ever seen - all swirly carpets, betasselled velvet and shimmering marble, with a live band centre stage. The Maine’s secrets are never ending: another floor down is a hidden bar, accessed only with a key via the bathrooms (they too have to be seen to be believed).

As for the food, the overarching feeling is of abundance: even before the order arrives, the table is set with tomato salad, hot crusty baguette, butter, and a half bulb of roasted garlic. The menu is so vast, it might take weeks to eat one’s way through it: from francophone moule frites, escargots and steak frites, to modern American Maryland crab cakes, truffle mac and cheese, and pork chop and maple glaze. At The Maine in Dubai, they sell 3.3m of their signature fish tacos a year. They’ve introduced the signature here and it’s an appealing lowbrow eat: soft tortillas piled with crispy fried cod pieces, shredded

cabbage and spicy pico de gallo. Charred Brussels sprouts, another Dubai favourite I’m told, are excellent: crispy on the outside, soft in the centre. Among the lighter dishes are a slightly too worthy lentil salad with sun-dried tomatoes and golden raisins and the ‘catch of the day’, a butterflied sea bass anointed with lemon and olive oil, which is pure elegant simplicity. Desserts such as pecan tart, Maine mud pie, and cookie dough with chocolate sauce and ice cream are everything an American dessert should be: sugary, sweet and perfectly unsophisticated. As fun and frivolous as Maine itself. MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £100 SIGNATURE DISHES: Crispy fish tacos; lobster roll; colossal shrimp cocktails WHAT TO DRINK: Martinis

Warehouse at T he Con dui t

6 L a n g ley St reet, C ovent G a rden, W1 warehou s elondon.c om

n the course of its move from Mayfair townhouse to Covent Garden warehouse, ethical private members’ club The Conduit has loosened its collar. After two months in its new Langley Street home, it has now opened its first public-facing restaurant (there’s a private one on the fifth floor) in the process, admitting a breath of fresh air. It’s a meaningful statement: if the club’s socially conscious members - famous name ambassadors include Elif Shafak, June Sarpong and Afua Hirsch - want to get their message out, then they’ve also got to let the outside in. It is obvious from the first that this sustainability-focused restaurant has many stories to tell. Catching up with an old friend over supper, however, we’re probably as interested in each other’s stories as we are in the restaurant’s. Credit to the waiting staff, for communicating the bar’s and kitchen’s values with a few judicious descriptions (the spent coffee grounds that go into the infusion in the wonderful Sloe Sip cocktail; the leftover pumpkin transformed into crisp puffs) before leaving us to relax into their quietly progressive brand of hospitality. The seasonal ingredients speak for themselves. Chef Brendan Eades has joined from pioneering zero-waste restaurant Silo in Hackney Wick, and brought many techniques, ingredients and suppliers with him. There are some unusual ingredients - how many West End restaurants serve hemp ricotta and einkorn sourdough? - but the dishes themselves are approachable and generous. We can’t resist crisp, golden battered cod’s cheeks, served piping hot with a dollop of tartar sauce, while the papad-like pumpkin wafers with creamy hemp ricotta make very right-on chips and dips. A vegan salad to follow of celeriac - raw and pickled - with sweet pear and hazelnut cream expresses the beauty of autumnal eating and is probably our dish of the night. Venison is the carnivore’s choice: here it appears twice, once in a starter of boldly seasoned tartare with grated cured egg and, again as a main course, lean and

tender with an intense licoricelaced sauce, as dark as night. Rice pudding, with yoghurt sorbet and damson jam is pure pleasure - a compelling mix of hot, cold, sweet, sharp. Warehouse marks a turning point for The Conduit. Now everybody can enjoy its cool, conscious design (by Russell Sage Studio) that focuses on artisan makers from the Global South and on circularity. The room’s a lively mix of colours and textures, its blue steel girders and raw brick walls set off by hand-painted Delft tiles from South Africa, reclaimed chairs with ticking cushions, and basketwork from Swaziland. Add to that the happy sound of diners meeting friends and family, rubbing shoulders with the great and good of London’s socially conscious businesses world. You never know who’s sitting at the next table. MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £130 SIGNATURE DISHES: Cod cheeks with tartar sauce; cured sea bass crudo; salad of celeriac, pear, hazelnut, lovage WHAT TO DRINK: Cocktails from foraged ingredients - try the Sloe Sip

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Booking Office 1869 E u ston Road, Blo om sbu r y, N W1 b o ok i ng- of f ic e.c o.u k

n the grand 19th-century ticket hall of the old St Pancras Station (now Booking Office 1869, the new bar and restaurant at St Pancras Renaissance Hotel), French interior designer Hugo Toro has installed eight towering palms trees. Such is the scale of this Victorian gothic masterpiece that, even at eight metres tall, the trees barely come close to scraping the ceiling. There’s yet more to catch the eye: a vast station clock, three great chandeliers hung with brass leaves, flamboyant printed velvets, a 22-metre marble-topped bar, and the Eurostar trains just visible through the arched windows. This is the golden age of rail travel reimagined for a new generation, where luxury means a crystal-clear margarita in good glassware with a perfect sphere of ice, or steak tartare, fried chicken and Champagne with friends en route to Paris. Visionary hotelier Harry Handelsman (Chiltern Firehouse, The Stratford) has brought in chef Patrick Powell of Allegra and bar

manager Jack Porter to create a destination all-day drinking and dining experience in King’s Cross. The atmosphere is electric on our visit, with drinkers mingling comfortably with diners and hotel guests from who knows where alongside locals. Powell’s menu is modern British-ish its influences sweeping in from across the globe. There’s no particular logic to moving from gildas (a Basque snack of olives, guindilla peppers and anchovies) to soul food fried chicken, then monkfish and potato curry and a big sugary apple doughnut, but our desire to do so is not only permitted but positively encouraged. The big hit, however, is roasted Brussels with crispy chicken skin, cranberry and pecorino. It sounds like the product of a Boxing Day fridge raid and works brilliantly. Parisian diners may raise a perfectly arched eyebrow but will surely concede that London marches to the beat of its own drum these days (though they’d be right to quibble with the clunky pastry on the salted caramel tart; let’s hope that’s fixed tout de suite). A glamorous new address and a useful one too thanks to its late license (1am, Thursday to Saturday). The opening of Booking Office Roof Garden next year will only add to its allure. MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £130 SIGNATURE DISHES: Fried chicken, yoghurt, lime; tuna, daikon, white soy skewer WHAT TO DRINK: Martini with beeswax and black olive

TOKLAS

1 Su r rey St reet, We st m i n ster, W1 tok la slondon.c om

rieze art fair founders Amanda Sharp and Matthew Slotover have opened a restaurant Toklas, named after writer Alice B.Toklas, in the 1970s brutalist surrounds of 180 The Strand. The look is hard-edged, its bruised concrete walls and exposed ducts brightened by a large 1993 Wolfgang Tillmans and the odd red mid-century chair dotted in among all the wooden ones. Outside, a plant-filled terrace has us looking forward to sunshine even in the depths of winter. At lunch, the menu is supplemented with a small card of specials (ribollita, £9, swiss chard tart, £10, a scoop of salted caramel, £4) that might have been invented for struggling artists or the likes of my lunch date, a scatty academic from King’s College next door - so scatty in fact he’s half an hour late, which gives me time to break my no-cocktails-at-lunch rule for an £11 Paper Plane (bourbon, Aperol, amaro and lime). A snacky

assortment of cured anchovies, salted almonds and dressed celery leaves is a terrific accompaniment. I know instantly that Toklas is a restaurant I’ll be back to again and again; in the West End, such good value is scarce. The menu is in the Mediterranean style propounded by the eponymous Toklas, its presentation in keeping with how the art crowd eats (St John and Rochelle Canteen are clear antecedents). To begin, a beautiful glistening salad of torn radicchio leaves dressed with hazelnuts and orange, and pristine smoked eel beside a mound of soft leeks and sharp horseradish. Then comes scored squid over green tomatoes, coriander and lemony, almost puddingy polenta, and (from the wee lunch menu) trout with mashed potato and broccoli - like home-cooking but better. For dessert, an ultra-dark chocolate tart that demands an accompanying espresso (theirs is excellent) and a warm quince frangipane tart heaped with bonus poached quince and a dollop of pale golden crème fraîche. Afterwards, we pop into the neighbouring Toklas bakery to pick up some thoroughly unnecessary sugar-dusted brioche and a round of Neal’s Yard cheese to take home. MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £120 SIGNATURE DISHES: Apple tarts and laminated brioche from the bakery WHAT TO DRINK: Negronis

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Restaurant R E V I E W S

LANGAN’S

ention Langan’s Brasserie to any longtime Londoner and tales of its late owner Peter Langan’s formidable boozing will surely follow. Like the time he climbed onto Princess Margaret’s table only to fall asleep there; and the time he turned Marlon Brando away for being too fat; that time he extinguished a kitchen fire with Krug (his favourite tipple). As his old business partner, actor Michael Caine, remarked: “We could never bar anyone from Langan’s because we’d have to start with Peter.” Nevertheless, the jet set Joan Collins, Jerry Hall, Jack Nicholson and co - adored it. Forty-five years since it first opened and one year since it fell victim to the pandemic, Langan’s is back. As are its former regulars: there were reportedly some 10,000 reservations taken for the first two weeks.

St r at ton St reet, M ay f a i r, W1 lang an s br a s s e r ie.c om

Its new owners, ex-Birley Group Ops Manager Graziano Arricale and restaurateur James Hitchen have given the old place more than a lick of paint. A glamourous makeover by designer Peter Mikic sees the dining room filled with plump velvet chairs, swirly polished marble and green Venini glass chandeliers, and its walls again lined with paintings (Yinka Shonibare, Martin Creed and Cecily Brown are among those represented). The buzz in the room is immense. The old guard are out in force at lunchtime - traditionally attired gentlemen, expensive blondes, and assorted fame-adjacent somebodies - and it’s a hive of activity. I note that Arricale and Hitchen have reintroduced the old-fashioned ‘brigade’ system front of house, with a head waiter, sommelier, chef de rang and commis for every section. The effect is charmingly, reassuringly old- school.

The food was never the point at Langan’s and that may well remain the case. My memories from the early noughties may be rose-tinted, but I recall the signature spinach soufflé being less refined but more robustly, enjoyably ‘spinachy’ than the reboot. Ex-Annabel’s chef Julien Jouhannaud will doubtless establish his own signatures; the chicken liver parfait (excellent) and luxurious £65 fish pie for two with scallops, lobster and prawns are front-runners. The menu is tailored to rich Mayfair tastes, by which I mean not only the severe prices (the £37 bangers and mash are, admittedly, swanked up with truffle and foie gras) but also the sheer decadence of the dishes, clearly designed for claret-quaffing chaps who don’t have to go back to the office after lunch. My table of lunching ladies choose light-ish options

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of crab on toast, some spectacularly OTT crudités and slim fingers of truffled croque-monsieur ahead of the rich-list fish pie and a thick crumbed boneless veal rack ‘viennoise’ at £49 (a leaner, cheaper schnitzel would perhaps be treading on the Wolseley’s toes?). If it’s exciting to be back at Langan’s, even more thrilling is the launch of the new invitation-only lounge upstairs with DJ decks, 3am license and glossy Studio 54 good looks. This is where the new generation of Langan’s regulars will go to get up to no good: behind closed doors. How times have changed. MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £140 SIGNATURE DISHES: Orkney Scallop Nimbu Pani; Chettinad Chicken Livers, Yoghurt Meringues WHAT TO DRINK: Calamansi Gola

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FOUR SEASONS

Your Time, Your Place

Q U I N TA D O L A G O

For friends, family, or just you

rel axation, Sunshine and e very thing in bet ween Lu x u ry v il l a s w i t h pr i vat e s w i m m ing p o ol or J a c u z z i . C lu bho u se w i t h T w o r e s ta u r a n ts & Ba r . H e at e d ind o or & o u t d o or p o ol s . G ym . B o u t iq u e spa . Te nni s a nd a G ol f S hop F O U R S E A S O N S F A I R W A Y S

Q U I N TA D O L A G O

A L G A R V E

P O RT U G A L

Winter offer (Nov '21 – Mar '22): Seven nights in a two or three-bed villa or apartment with swimming pool or Jacuzzi ranging from (*) £1050 to £1300 on self-catering basis depending on travel dates. For more information and offers visit fourseasonsfairways.com/en/special-offers Avenida André Jordan 37 | Quinta do Lago | Algarve | Portugal | Tel: +351 289 357 667 | www.fourseasonsfairways.com reservations@fairwaysdirect.com @fourseasonsfairways *Subject to availability. Price correct at time of print – subject to exchange rate fluctuations.

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LA DOLCE VITA Perched high above the lemon-scented Amalfi coast, Borgo Santandrea overlooks the ancient fisherman’s hamlet of Conca dei Marini, with views of the endless sea beyond. The family-run hotel, which opens this April, has 29 rooms and 16 suites set among the prettiest of garden terraces. The three restaurants offer a Mediterranean menu, while Aperol Spritz and sunsets are a given at the bar. borgosantandrea.it/en

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Travel Notes

Soak up the Amalfi sunshine, head deep into Thailand’s jungle and escape in Edinburgh C o m p i l e d b y HARRIET COOPER

TROPICAL BREEZE

Indian Charm

REGAL SPLENDOUR Set in a 14th-century fort that was previously a home of the Rajasthani Royal Family, the new Six Senses Fort Barwara imbues bygone glamour. The 48 suites are located across two restored ancient palaces and temples, all of them a beguiling blend of old-world architecture and state-of-theart mod cons. This romanticism spills over into the rest of the hotel, whether at Roohani restaurant, which serves a fresh, sustainable menu, or in the Spa with its extensive Ayurvedic programmes. sixsenses.com

G R E E K O DYS S E Y

Cali Mykonos - opening this summer - sits between two mountains, which makes its private beach all the more secluded. The resort’s 40 villas are all architecturally designed to offer maximum privacy, with cool marble interiors and huge patios. There’s a spa, sushi bar and a flotilla of yachts ready to take you on a tour of the Cyclades, though it’s our betting you won’t leave the seawater infinity pool. calimykonos.com

Luxury resort group Emerald Collection has added to its Maldivian portfolio with the imminent opening of Emerald Faarufushi Resort & Spa, set on a private island in the Raa Atoll. Maximalist in luxe and minimalist in design, there are 80 villas, five restaurants and the Eclipse Bar, located on the jetty a magical spot for star-lit cocktails. The spa, fringed by palm trees, draws from Balinese tradition, offering out-of-this-world massages and facials. emerald-collection.com

HOUSE STYLE

Iconic country retreat Gleneagles is spreading its wings beyond Perthshire and opening a new townhouse in Edinburgh this spring. As you’d expect, luxury is everything at the former bank turned 33-room hotel. From the members’ club to the restaurant with its soaring glass domed ceiling, this is sure to become a city favourite. gleneagles.com/townhouse

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T R AV E L

BUBBLE IN THE JUNGLE Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort in northern Thailand is set deep in 160 acres of verdant jungle teeming with wildlife. For added joy, stay in a transparent jungle bubble and spend the night observing rescued elephants roaming in their natural habitat. The new double bubble, which sleeps eight, is ideal for families or larger groups. anantara.com

FRENCH FANCY The Maybourne Group (Claridges, The Berkeley et al) has launched its fifth property, The Maybourne Riviera, perched majestically on the coast above Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. All the best names have been brought in on the design front, resulting in a beautifully appointed modernist hotel, complete with restaurants headed up by Mauro Colagreco and Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and an oh-so-chic beach club. maybourneriviera.com

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / T R AV E L

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Wanderlust

Natural Healing From decompressing in the MALDIVES to building your immunity in THAILAND, these new wellness retreats promise more than just an ESCAPE to the sun W o r d s HARRIET COOPER

BEST FOR ALL-ROUND

Soneva Soul MALDIVES soneva.com

oneva, founded by Sonu and Eva Shivdasani, is the original barefoot luxury brand, with sustainable resorts Soneva Fushi, Soneva Jani and Soneva in Aqua (an ultra-luxurious 23-metre yacht) in the Maldives, and Soneva Kiri on Koh Kood, Thailand. Their ‘no news, no shoes’ policy is indicative of the Soneva ethos, where slow living is encouraged as guests float between Robinson Crusoe-style villas to the pristine beach to the spa to the restaurant, and back again. As custodians of such pristine environments, Sonu and Eva take eco responsibility very seriously and, like everything, they do it wholeheartedly (Soneva has been carbon neutral since 2012). The same can be said of the recently launched Soneva Soul, a wellness concept designed to “offer unique wellbeing services in the ultimate healing environment”. The new Soneva Soul Island Spa at Soneva Jani epitomises this. Designed to be so much more than a generic space offering massages, it’s a three-level complex of open-air treatment rooms, consultation suites, therapeutic biomodulation rooms, a gym and juice bar, with a yoga pavilion and meditation platform high in the trees, offering incredible views.

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T R AV E L

Here - and across other Soneva Soul spas in the pipeline, the next being Soneva Fushi - the focus is on curating a wellness plan for guests that will support every aspect of their life, whether they’re booked in for a treatment, ritual or therapy, or a specific programme designed to focus on movement, yoga, meditation or sleep. The latter, for example, will see ‘sleep ambassadors’ examine your lifestyle, nutrition and habits, before creating an interactive, personalised plan for healthier, long-term sleeping habits. Whatever a guest’s needs, treatments are a combination of traditional philosophies (Ayurveda, Chinese medicine, herbalism…) with a more cutting-edge, scientific approach, such as platelet-rich plasma (PRP) therapy, nutrient IV therapy, cryotherapy, ozone therapy and hyperbaric oxygen therapy. These are also enhanced by yoga, breathing and meditation, as well as innovative fitness and bodywork sessions. To facilitate this, each Soneva Soul spa will have its own permanent team including an Ayurvedic doctor, traditional Chinese Medicine practitioner, integrative medicine doctor and highly trained therapists. For all-round happiness and health, this is it. From £1,702 per night, based on two people sharing a one-bedroom water retreat at Soneva Jani 81

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BEST FOR IMMUNITY

Chiva-Som THAILAND

chivasom.com

hiva-Som is the pinnacle of holistic luxury. The five-star wellness resort, on the coast of Hua Hin, Thailand, has been a haven of health and wellbeing since 1995 and is repeatedly voted ‘Top Destination Spa Resort in the World’. With good reason. Set within seven acres of banyan- and frangipani-filled gardens are first-rate medical, health, fitness and spa facilities with a hugely knowledgeable, ever-obliging staff to match. The beachside resort recently underwent a multi-million-pound renovation, which has upped the ante, with reimagined interiors and new additions including a hydrotherapy suite, flotation chamber and hydro pool. There are over 200 treatments, classes and workshops on offer, tailored to meet guests’ ever-changing needs. So, when the pioneering wellness destination launches four new retreats, you take notice. Top of our list is ‘Immune Resilience’, which considering the challenges of the past couple of years - captures the zeitgeist. Billed as a

multidimensional approach, the five- or sevennight retreat incorporates mindful exercise, detoxifying treatments and nutrient-rich meals. Following an in-depth consultation, a personalised programme is devised for each guest, designed to help build and maintain their resilience and vitality. Expect an agenda of lymphatic drainage massage, every manner of fitness class, personal training and wellness therapies including Shiroabhyanga and meditation to quieten the overworking mind.

Chiva-Som takes great pride in its wellness cuisine; if you’re not intermittent fasting, your tailored immune-support meal plan might include the likes of ginger lentil dahl or cauliflower pepper fondue washed down by wheatgrass shots. The resort’s other new retreats include ‘Gut Health’, ‘Nature’s Embrace’ - drawing on the restorative powers of nature to heal the body and mind - and ‘Senior Wellness’, ensuring Chiva-Som continues to be the place for those looking to improve their physical, mental, emotional or spiritual wellbeing. The Immune Resilience retreat starts from £3,161 per person for five nights and £4,426 for seven nights in an Ocean Room

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T R AV E L

BEST FOR SELF-CARE

Jumby Bay Island ANTIGUA

ust two miles off mainland Antigua, and ringed by coral reef, lies the private island of Jumby Bay. It certainly meets all the Caribbean requisites - powder soft sand, turquoise waters and a tropical interior criss-crossed with bicycle paths (there are no cars on this isle). Guests stay here for carefree, sunsoaked days of snorkelling, feasting on lobster ravioli and cocktails by the infinity pool. Now they can also come to renew and reset as the resort launches its first ever wellness retreat, in collaboration with experiential travel company Paper & Diamond. The immersive five-night/four-day experience promises an itinerary that will help equip stressed-out guests with the tools to live a healthier, more balanced life back home - all led by yoga specialist and wellness expert Claire Grieve, alongside nutrition consultant and health coach Neda Varbanova.

oetkercollection.com

The programme is both innovative and encompassing, offering a balance of workshops, meditation, breathwork and more, all centred around the Ayurvedic approach of the five pillars to health. A typical day might incorporate ‘New Moon Meditation’, Hatha yoga, hacking your microbiome, a CBD cooking workshop, plus a treatment in the spa

‘A Journey Through The Senses’ runs from 26 - 31 March; £2,223 for single occupancy in a Beachside Suite or £2,750 for double occupancy in a Beachside Suite T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / T R AV E L

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- perhaps a full body ash and clay mask, followed by an Epsom salt and botanical oil soak. Breakout private sessions can be anything from nutrition coaching to a mindful mixology class. As darkness descends, dinner is served at the resort’s The Farm, which works with local farmers to present an ever-changing, wholesome menu; another night, it could be a toes-in-thesand BBQ, much of it centred around plant-based cuisine. Finish off with a moonlit sound bath on the beach or an intention-setting ceremony aboard the resort’s private catamaran - surely the perfect ending to any wellness retreat.

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T R AV E L

BEST FOR GUT HEALTH

SHA Wellness Clinic S PA I N

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erched majestically in the Alicante hills, SHA Wellness Clinic has a wonderfully serene vibe. From the sleek, minimalist decor in the suites to the all-white double daybeds on the pool terrace, with its panoramic views of the beach and the Bay of Altea beyond, all is calm. But don’t be fooled. Guests aren’t here for a week of lying on sunloungers beneath a cloudless sky. This is one of the world's leading, results-oriented holistic clinics, which holds real medical clout, whether you’re booked in for a super-serious detox or to alleviate the long-term effects of COVID-19. The latest in its extensive repertoire is the Gut Health programme, developed in conjunction with the clinic’s Detox programme, to reset and maintain the correct functioning of the digestive system. With more than a third of us having poor digestive health - stress and poor diet being the principal triggers - this couldn’t be timelier. Particularly aimed at those suffering from digestive disorders, chronic diseases, autoimmune diseases, allergies and mood

disorders, the seven-night programme is headed up by the highly respected Dr Amina Alani (psychoneuroimmunology, neuroscience, sports medicine and nutrition are her fortes), who has framed it around SHA’s signature 360-degree approach to wellness.

After a detailed review of the patient’s intestinal tract - think the likes of ellipseinflammation and dysbiosis tests (the latter to analyse the gut microbiota) - guests are prescribed a tailored selection of cuttingedge medical treatments combined with natural therapies. In between sessions such as intestinal ozone therapy (rectal insufflation eliminates bacteria, parasites and viruses from the intestine) and micro-nutrition therapy, there’s ample opportunity to kick back in the enormous spa, which has everything you could possibly wish for, from tepidarium to caldarium, physiohydro-massage pool to zen garden. On departure (you can extend the programme to 14 or 21 days, should you wish) guests are given a health plan to continue at home. With transformed digestion, strengthened immunity and improved emotional health, why wouldn’t you? The seven-night Gut Health & Detox programme starts from £4,973 per person

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / T R AV E L

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Satara 119/3017 with Colour Box Velvet – Ginger F111/11045

HOME & INTERIORS

CHECK, PLEASE The thrill of gliding across Claridges’ iconic Victorian tiled lobby has entered the home as the illustrious hotel collaborates with Summerill & Bishop to create a checkerboard tablecloth and napkin set. Made from 100 percent linen and available in monochrome, pale blue and soft green shades, it adds an instant sense of grandeur to any occasion. Tablecloth, £355; napkins, £25 each summerillandbishop.com

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Design Notes

Celestial ceramics, wild wallpaper and a new capsule from Martin Brudnizki C o m p i l e d b y A M Y M O O R E A WO N G

Light Fantastic

The entrancing organic shapes of the 100 lighting collection by Canadian studio Bocci are created when molten glass bubbles are forced together to produce unpredictable interlocking forms. With each bubble individually mouth blown, no two are the same. 100.3 Pendant, £1,682 bocci.com

L IP SE RV ICE

With two semi-circular rounded layers, Bohinc Studio’s Kissing armchair is an abstract take on its namesake, forming a minimal set of lips cocooning the cushioned seat and forming the backrest. Upholstered in textured cream wool, it’s at once cosy and sculptural. £7,854 bohincstudio.com

Art Attack

FINE STAR DINING Capturing the mysteries of deep space on every plate and bowl, Ophelia’s Galaxy collection is a study in unique glazing techniques and exploratory colours. With each piece hand built, they’re tiny tabletop artworks that celebrate their characterful irregular shapes and imperfections. studio-ophelia.com

STONE AGE

An alluring slice of characterful malachite atop a rose-quartz base, hand crafted with traditional joinery techniques, the Bighton side table by designer Martin Brudnizki’s product design studio And Objects is part of an exuberant eightpiece capsule collection in collaboration with The Invisible Collection. £7,200 theinvisiblecollection.com

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HOME & INTERIORS

WILD AT HEART

Cole & Son’s recent collaboration with South African studio Ardmore is an artful celebration of life in the country’s grasslands, wetlands and savannas, with every wallpaper design telling a rich story. The Zulu Terrain pattern conjures the rolling hills and winding valleys of coastal Kwa-Zulu Natal with illustrated feathers and markings in soothing, natural shades.

Make Waves Relax your home with the laid-back wave pattern which invites the eye on a gentleyet-joyous wiggle. Just like its watery origin it has a fluid, free-flowing feel, a carefree hybrid of the stripe and scallop that forms a playful rippling rhythm

£114 per roll

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FROM TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: POODLE & BLONDE X MADE Trudy Sofa, £449, made.com CASACARTA Dinner Plate, £42, casa-carta.com YINKA ILORI Omi Cotton Cushion, £85, selfridges.com KLEVERING Squiggle Medium Metal Table, £120, selfridges.com MISSONI HOME Flame Torta Candle, £378, selfridges.com BIAS EDITIONS Small Wiggle Candlestick, £48, libertylondon.com ANNABEL CUCUZ Bethany Vase, £279, heals.com VITRA The Wiggle Side Chair, £839, vitra.com PIECES The Wavy Rug, $1,080.00, pieceshome.com

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

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My Home Life

Broadcaster and interiors influencer Louise Roe shows us around her new London home and talks style, sourcing antiques and why she has set up her own homewares business W o r d s O L I V I A L I D B U RY

f you’re the sort of person who never gets round to framing pictures or picking out a fabric for your curtains, you might want to take a leaf out of Louise Roe’s book. The British journalist and broadcaster only moved into her new home last summer, but already it looks layered and lived in, with every lightbulb chicly dressed, the walls dotted with artworks and antique door stoppers providing the finishing touches. “Nesting is real!” laughs Roe, 40, who welcomed her second daughter, Inès, around the same time as moving in. “I think it was a mix of being a new mum and just wanting to have it all finished.” With two house moves in two years, a decor overhaul isn’t something that daunts her. In fact, she has become so immersed in interiors that she is launching her own homewares brand (more on that later). It all started in the autumn of 2019, when Roe and her husband, TV producer Mackenzie Hunkin, and their eldest daughter Honor, moved from Los Angeles to Oxfordshire. Roe had lived in LA for 11 years, “but I missed England and my family and friends, and things like the four seasons!” she says. “Mine and my husband’s work became more digital, so we realised we were able to do it anywhere rather than having to be in a studio in Hollywood.” Landing on a Georgian rectory an hour and a half from the capital, Roe set up a dedicated Instagram handle (@louiseroehome), as an outlet to document the renovations and her inspiration. She has an impressive 131,000 followers and counting. “It’s a place where I can go into more nerdy detail about the ins and outs of the fabric I’m upholstering or the antiques fair I’m at.” In LA, Roe was dictated to by the contemporary architecture and the bright quality of light, so with the rectory, she could indulge her more traditional side. She previously worked as a fashion stylist, and her inclination for putting things together that look aesthetically pleasing naturally spilled over into this area. “I think my fashion background has given me a love for making and re-zhuzhing things. My style is quite timeless and, the older I get, the more I just would rather have pieces that are going to last and are good quality.”

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HOME & INTERIORS

“My fashion background has given me a love for making and rezhuzhing things"

LIVING ROOM

Sang de Boeuf by Edward Bulmer softens the walls by day and cocoons the space by night. The bureau is an antique from a shop in Petworth and the captain’s chair was found at the Dorking Desk Shop. For soft furnishings, Roe turned to OKA for the sofas and the Bespoke Footstool Company for the ottoman, which doubles up as a display table.

Inspired by the work of interior designers such as Ben Pentreath, Octavia Dickinson, Barlow & Barlow and the late John Fowler, Roe made the rectory the epitome of country-house chic, complete with an orangery, aga and chintzy fabrics. Each room looked like a cutting from House & Garden. But just 18 months in - mid-pandemic and when fatigued Londoners were leaving the capital in their droves in pursuit of her country idyll - she decided to move the opposite way, trading the rectory for a late Victorian house in a leafy part of south-west London. “Mackenzie and I went into London a few times and felt like we weren’t done

with it just yet,” she explains. “It was such a big shift going from the middle of LA to quite a remote, rural setting. We felt like we maybe had skipped ahead a couple of decades.” The mature garden and original features of the townhouse appealed, as did the village-like location. In good condition but untouched for 30 years, it was the perfect project. “Houses have a certain feel when you walk in them, and it just felt like a happy family home.” Now practised in decorating on a large scale, she knew instinctively what she would do, and with no structural work required, it was a case of putting her own stamp on it through paint, fabric and fittings. “We brought a lot of furniture and soft furnishings with us so it didn’t feel like such a big project.” T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

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HONOR’S BATHROOM

Too much contemporary metalwork can kill off a bathroom’s country vibe, so Roe scoured Etsy and eBay for vintage bathroom accessories such as a bamboo mirror and brass towel holders and door hooks. “I don’t think she appreciates it just yet,” laughs Roe of the space intended for her eldest daughter Honor, which is decked in creeping vine wallpaper by Living Quarters. 91

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BEDROOM

Roe’s own bedroom is painted in Lichen by Farrow & Ball and features a wool carpet from Alternative Flooring. The ottoman is from her new brand Sharland England, and the antique tallboy was reclaimed from her daughter’s former bedroom for the alcove. The china lamp base is an eBay find topped with a ruffled shade from Alice Palmer & Co. There are some similarities with the rectory - such as laying the same parquet flooring and Caesarstone worktop for the kitchen. But there are key differences, too: the kitchen here is dark blue (Fired Earth’s Carbon was used to re-paint the existing cabinetry) whereas in the country it was green, and they chose to create a larger kitchen island as that’s where they found they spent much of their time. The new wardrobes tell a remarkable story: scrolling Instagram during a night feed with Inès, Roe came across decorative painter Amy Balfour, whose Charleston Farmhouse-inspired aesthetic caught her eye. Balfour had a lot on her plate namely 12-week-old triplets - but Roe “gingerly” messaged her to see if she would consider a commission. Balfour gamely agreed, bringing her babies and mother along for two days to customise the wardrobes with a pretty diamond pattern, which makes them one of a kind. “With Inès we had four newborns

“Houses have a certain

feel when you walk in them, and it just felt like a happy family home"

in the house, the builders were like: ‘Oh my god!’” laughs Roe. “Amy was holding them on rotation and breastfeeding them while she painted with the other hand. I just remember thinking, ‘Women are amazing.’” Honor, aged three, has a wonderfully whimsical bathroom complete with a sink skirt and shell wall sconces, but there’s no playroom in this home. What does she do about all the kids’ clutter? “At the moment there are bouncers and a lot of baby things out, but that’s just

par for the course. They have their own bedrooms though, and the living room tends to stay as an adult space where we’re not surrounded by their toys once they’ve gone to bed.” Said living room (painted in Sang de Boeuf by Edward Bulmer) houses a handsome vintage secretaire with panels of glass dating back over 200 years, and a captain’s chair which Roe sits at daily to work. She scours Etsy for antiques and shops a lot from Instagram - followers will even DM her

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HOME & INTERIORS

The Glossary Edit

SHARLAND ENGLAND

KITCHEN

Rattan bar stools (from OKA), fabric pendant lights (from Alice Palmer & Co) and a Welsh dresser crammed with Roe’s crockey lends a homely feel to the upcycled kitchen. The island was made larger with a run of new cabinets from British Standard Cupboards. The parquet ﬂoor is from the Natural Wood Floor Company. if they see something they think she’ll like. “It’s such a lovely community,” she says of the social network. In London she enjoys pottering along the brigade of fabric shops alongside Penny Morrison in Chelsea. She also rates eBay for artworks: “You can get some amazing oil paintings and watercolours. If I don’t like the frame and it’s on a canvas block, I just remove it and lean it on the mantelpiece.” Roe is about to turn seller herself with the launch of Sharland England, a 10-piece range of handmade rattan pieces including bedside tables, ottomans, plant pots and trays. All made in Bali, the designs feature braiding and scallop details, and were

inspired by the wicker heirlooms she grew up around, which once belonged to her late greatgrandmother, Marjorie Sharland (who inspired the name). “She lived in Buenos Aires and was very elegant. My mum says she was quite naughty - playing practical jokes and throwing parties. Every time she went to a restaurant, she’d order her pudding first.” Rattan has come around as a trend again in the home, but for Roe it has been a constant. “I think it grounds a room and it gives it an elegance, but also because it’s a neutral colour, it plays very well off a bright wall or accessory.” T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

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FROM TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: Swid Consule Table, £450 Crosby Piped Throw Cushion, £75 Grace Bedside Table, £350 Otterley Vase, £145 Scalloped Farmhouse Chair, £295 Hadley Tray, £175 All available to buy from sharland-england.com

The collection starts from £75 for a small planter and is joined by a range of cushions featuring fabric designed by Roe, as well as a selection of antique chairs. The latter have seat pads reupholstered in a mix of cane alongside fabrics by Soane and Pierre Frey. Sharland is a natural extension of Roe’s home, and which she hopes will appeal to the ‘appreciators’ on Instagram who admire her taste. The nicest compliment she has received from friends about her new place is “that it feels like a country house in the middle of town”. And to all the procrastinators out there, she has this advice: “I think once you’ve got artwork up and books on the shelves, a space suddenly feels like a home.” sharland-england.com 93

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TAVOLA BY SKYE MCALPINE Cocktail Napkins

I’m so proud of my friend Skye for launching Tavola, her new tabletop brand, which was inspired by her childhood spent in Venice. I love these charming cocktail napkins she’s designed in collaboration with Coco & Wolf - another fabulous independent lifestyle brand. Crafted from Liberty Fabrics’ Archive Lilac print, they’ll add charm to mealtimes. From £56 for a set of two, libertylondon.com

MILLIE MARKETPLACE Handwoven Placemats

Millie is a social enterprise set up by Chelsea Brown, selling womenswear and lifestyle products, with a portion of the proceeds helping small communities of female artisans. These limited-production hand-woven placemats - made by a basket-weaver using wheat straw grown in her own garden in Jerash, Jordan - are an everyday piece that I’d use all year long. $40, millie.ca

HOUSE STYLE

LOUISE ROE curates her favourite INDEPENDENT interiors brands & the standout PIECES she is coveting this SEASON

WICKLEWOOD Arrow & Dots Vase

IN CASA BY PABOY Ruffle Cushion

I have a strong affection for a ruffle, so I adore these cushions by Gambian tailor Paboy Bojang, who is currently seeking asylum in Naples. He sources fabrics from local suppliers in the city’s historic centre and makes each cushion to order. The mix of colours and textures is so unexpected and fun. An easy way to add a bit of joy this season. £120 each, incasabypaboy.com

This pretty vase, which has been handmade in South Africa, will brighten any tabletop. The founders of homeware brand Wicklewood, Caroline Downing Nadel and Rosie Axford, pour so much effort and time into finding tiny communities across the world that are largely made up of female artisans and entrepreneurs to create their unique home designs. It’s a great initiative, and they have such a good eye. £85, wicklewood.com

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HOMES & INTERIORS

SANDRA ALEXANDRA

Cocktail & Nibble Sticks

THE COLUMBIA COLLECTIVE Classic Woven Fan

I’m very invested in the provenance of items I buy and actively seek out things that are handmade. The Colombia Collective is brilliant - it makes handbags and decorative pieces using techniques that are passed down in Colombia through generations. This fan is handcrafted by female weavers in Sandoná, Nariño, using the native iraca palm. It’s so beautiful, I’d hang it on a wall. £32, thecolombiacollective.co.uk

I’ve recently discovered this kitsch jewellery brand, founded by London-based Spanish designer Sandra Barrio Gonzalez, who has also designed these fabulous fruittopped Murano glass cocktail stirrers. They jazz up any drink and are individually hand-crafted by artisans in Barcelona, so no two are the same. £95, sandralexandra.com

THE SETTE

Wave Pitcher by Sophie Lou Jacobsen This glass Sophie Lou Jacobsen jug, with its ripple-effect handle, is very high on my wishlist. It’s available on The Sette, an online British kitchen and tabletop brand set up by Cloe Bueso and Sophie Elliott in 2020, that offers a brilliant edit of unusual, handcrafted pieces. There’s such a playfulness to everything they sell - their Instagram account is a constant source of inspiration to me. From £175, thesette.com

BY ALICE

HUM LONDON

‘Column of Strength’ Candle Holders by Minne Mae Stott Studio

Hand-Painted Lampshade I’m a big lampshade fan - they’re literally dotted all over my house. I have this shade from Hum London in blue - I put it on a vintage wooden lamp stand and it’s perched on a little cocktail bar in my kitchen. The brand was founded in lockdown by sisters Hermione and Ellie Gee - all the lampshades are made in the UK and are hand painted by Hermione, meaning each piece is totally unique. From £60, humlondon.com

These gorgeous candle holders from By Alice are an exclusive collaboration - each ceramic piece is hand-carved by Minnie Mae in Margate. I’m drawn to anything that nods to classic Grecian style and the mustard and deep purple of these candle holders tap into my favourite colour palette right now. By Alice founder Alice Wawrik sources vintage and artisan pieces from around the world for her eponymous label - when I visited her pop-up recently, I literally jumped on an antique marble shell dish. £84, by-alice.co.uk T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

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L A S T WO R D

Mica Paris

MY GLOSSARY Singer Mica Paris opens her little black book to the capital, from the finest Italian dining to secret dog-walking spots A s t o l d t o LARA KILNER

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH I’ve lived in west London for many years. High Street Kensington and Notting Hill are my favourite areas because all of the great secondhand shops, and I always take a wander down Portobello Market.

DAPHNE'S RESTAURANT

My best friend Lisa Butcher has a good secret spot in Regent’s Park where we take our dogs my Bichon Frise Dali and Lisa’s Doberman Daphne - and put the world to rights. It’s our chill space. The Kyoto Garden in Holland Park is also very special to me.I’ve lived all over London - I was born in Islington and grew up in Brockley - and my favourite childhood memories are my dad taking us to Bayswater to see the art along the railings by Hyde Park. Park RESTAURANTS Italian food is my cuisine of choice. I've been going to Essenza on Kensington Park Road since my daughter was at school, and now she’s married and I’m a grandmother. Stefano, the owner, knows me well, and I know the menu exactly. They make the most amazing pasta with truffle. Daphne’s Daphne’s, the iconic Italian restaurant on Draycott Avenue in South Kensington, is another favourite.

Vivienne Westwood was there, SHOPPING SPOTS John Galliano had a little shop There’s an amazing butcher in - he would make my suits for Holland Park called C Lidgate me in his office upstairs - and where the wagyu steak is Ozwald Boateng was in a tiny incredible. La Piccola round room up Westbourne Park the corner is a great deli. I buy Avenue. This is how old I am. its truffle honey, pecorino, truffle paste, handmade pasta BEAUTY SPOT and cold-pressed extra I’ve been going virgin olive oil. That to KX Gym in and the Jamaican Chelsea for 18 food is another years and it’s reason I love an absolute west London. haven. I do I head to a workout Shepherd’s or a Pilates Bush market class, steam for my plantain, and sauna. I yam and get my facials callaloo - the kids THE KYOTO GARDEN IN HOLLAND PARK and nails done want their ackee there and the and saltfish at the IT LONDON has some brilliant music venues massages… Slav weekend. such as the Royal Albert Hall and the masseuse is great. I find all my homeware Wigmore Hall, but my favourite A visit feels like going on around Lots Road in Chelsea, is Shepherd’s Bush Empire - it’s holiday in the middle of a where the antiques shops are. close to where I live and the busy city. My hairdresser I don’t buy music any more sound is amazing. My heart is in Terry Jacques is around the as I get so much sent to me, smaller venues - the last gig corner in Beauchamp Place. but Red Records in Brixton I saw was Rag’n’Bone He’s been doing my was my go-to. Man at the London hair since I was a Palladium. I like the teenager, that’s FASHION FIX opera every now how long I’ve My favourite designers are and again, and known him, and Rifat Ozbek, Joe Caselymy most recent he’s done every Hayford and my number one is theatre visit was album cover Azzedine Alaïa - the king to see Beverley of mine. of body-con. He designed Knight in The so well for women’s Drifters Girl at NIGHTS OUT bodies. I wore one of his Garrick Theatre. I’m often in dresses on my Whisper central London, so A Prayer album cover micaparis.com; I spend a lot of time and I’ve still got it. But, KX GYM oxfam.org.uk at Chiltern Firehouse generally, I’m quite a in Marylebone and I love minimalist, so I give my IT London on Dover Street clothes away to Oxfam. I in Mayfair. It’s an amazing also recently curated a Michelin-starred Italian collection in the Oxfam restaurant with an unusual x Bay Garnett pop-up menu and a wicked nightclub shop in Selfridges if you want to do the club to raise money for thing - which I often do. I’m a the charity’s work big-time Soho House person to beat poverty my favourite is Electric House around the world. on Portobello Road. Sunday I was around lunches there are the best when King’s and the kids love it, there’s a Road was real family vibe. I don’t drink, the road, as so I’ll order a Virgin Picante was Carnaby (Seedlip Garden, citrus, agave Street. and chilli). ALAÏA SPRING SUMMER 21

ESSENZA RESTAURANT

CULTURE STOP I like the Serpentine Galleries a lot and I adore the Tate. I’ve taken the kids and grandkids to the Science Museum and the British Museum - I’m a huge history nut. London

PORTRAIT BY EDWARD COOKE

THE BRITISH MUSEUM

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Disrupting Diamonds

MESSIKA.COM

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