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PLUS: Alice Naylor-Leyland on INTERIORS Kate Bryan on ART Sharmadean Reid on BEAUTY Alessandra Steinherr on SKINCARE Gizzi Erskine on RESTAURANTS & Daphne Guinness’ LONDON FRONT COVER.indd 1
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CONT E I S S U E
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Arts & Culture 8
THE GLOSSARY EDIT A few of our favourite things 11 AGENDA London’s must-see cultural openings 18 RISING STARS Kate Bryan on the six artists to invest in this year
Style
41 INVESTMENT BAGS Totes that stand the test of time 42 NEW IT BAGS AW20’s definitive bags 44 THE WATCH & JEWELLERY EDIT The need-to-know pieces and covetable collections 46 HIGH DEFINITION Luxury jewellery in the digital age
26 FASHION NOTES
Essential new season style updates 28 NAOMI Trailblazer, icon, survivor .... the supermodel speaks out 38 ART MEETS FASHION Inside the V&A’s Bags exhibition
‘Naomi. Updated Edition’ is available at taschen.com
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ENTS Beauty & Wellness
52 BEAUTY NOTES The latest products and trends 54 THE POLLUTION SOLUTION Alessandra Steinerr shares her skincare saviours to defend and detoxify 60 MY BEAUTY GLOSSARY Sharmadean Reid’s essential beauty and wellness hot spots 65 A SCENTS OF AUTUMN What you’ll be spritzing this season
Autumn 2020
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Food & Drink
70 TASTING NOTES The restaurants and bars creating a buzz in the capital 72 NEW BEGINNINGS Hilary Armstrong on London’s most talked-about new restaurants 76 MY GLOSSARY Gizzi Erskine’s best-loved places to eat and drink in town
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Travel
80 TRAVEL NOTES Where to go and what to see 82 ISLAND LIFE Handbag designer Marina Raphael shares her insider secrets to Hydra
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82
Naomi
Home & Interiors
88 DESIGN NOTES Interior design inspiration and ideas 90 ALICE’S WONDERLAND Alice Naylor-Leyland talks style, setting up a business and soirées 94 THE ART OF TABLESCAPING Make dining at home more joyful
Last Word
96 MY LONDON GLOSSARY Daphne Guinness’ little black book
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SUPERMODEL ENTREPRENEUR ACTIVIST
Style issue The
PLUS: Alice Naylor-Leyland on INTERIORS Kate Bryan on ART Sharmadean Reid on BEAUTY Alessandra Steinherr on SKINCARE Gizzi Erskine on RESTAURANTS & Daphne Guinness’ LONDON FRONT COVER.indd 1
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08/10/2020 22:02
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GLOSS SSARY ARY W E L C O M E
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utumn is a time for resetting and renewing and, with 2020 a year unlike any other, hitting refresh has never been more apt. As London embraces the #NewNormal, this issue not only looks towards a future full of positivity and hope, it celebrates a city that has shown strength and beauty in the face of adversity. And who better to embody this than our Streatham-born cover star Naomi Campbell? Though her trajectory has been dizzying – she is without doubt one of the most iconic supermodels of all time – it has not come without its challenges. And yet she’s picked herself up, reinvented herself and, 50 this year, remains as relevant as ever. 2020 has also taught us that we need to show solidarity towards the city’s businesses and brands - something we’ve always done at The Glossary. This theme runs throughout the issue - from shops, salons and restaurants to galleries and museums, we must offer a lifeline by continuing to support them in a socially distanced and safe way. We show you how, with our indispensable edit of the capital’s must-see cultural openings; an insider’s guide to Bags Inside Out, the V&A's major show of the season, from its curator; Gizzi Erskine’s favourite places to eat in town; and fashion muse Daphne Guinness opens her little black book to the capital. Now more than ever, we must nurture ourselves too. Our contributing beauty director Alex Steinherr tackles pollution-induced beauty woes and reveals her tried and tested skincare for city living; while Sharmadean Reid, founder and CEO of beauty booking app Beautystack, gives the lowdown on her favourite treatments in London. And we boost your mood with Autumn’s best new fragrances. For some much-needed escapism, art historian and Soho House’s Head of Collections Kate Bryan reveals the rising stars of British art to invest in; lifestyle doyenne Alice NaylorLeyland talks us through the art of the dreamy tablescape; and handbag designer Marina Raphael shares her favourite holiday destination for creative inspiration. And with theglossarymagazine.com continuing to bring you curated fashion, beauty, interiors and lifestyle edits and all the need-to-know culture in the capital, we hope to inspire you through the season ahead. Enjoy the issue Charlotte Adsett, Editorial Director
THE GLOSSARY TEAM
Editor
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett charlotte@theglossarymagazine.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR: Harriet Cooper harriet@theglossarymagazine.com
Edit
ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle ray@theglossarymagazine.com CONTRIBUTING BEAUTY DIRECTOR: Alessandra Steinherr CONTRIBUTING RESTAURANT EDITOR: Hilary Armstrong CONTRIBUTING INTERIORS EDITOR: Amy Moorea Wong CONTRIBUTORS: Luciana Bellini, Kate Bryan, Georgie Lane-Godfrey, Sarah Royce-Greensill, Lucy Scovell FINANCE MANAGER: Amanda Clayton accounts@theglossarymagazine.com
picks
PINK
COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Fad Jamal fad@theglossarymagazine.com
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WATCH & JEWELLERY EDITOR: Ming Liu ming@theglossarymagazine.com
SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER: Elizabeth Johnson subscriptions@theglossarymagazine.com EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editorial@theglossarymagazine.com Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited, 85 Great Portland Street, First Floor, London, W1W 7LT © 2020 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission. The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to The Glossary magazine’s right to edit. The Glossary works with FSC® and ISO 14001 certified eco printers in the UK that only use FSC-certified paper that has been sourced from a sustainable forest in an environmentally-friendly, socially responsible and economically viable way. All paper stock can be traced back to the original tree. Inks are vegetable based.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: LOEWE Sunglasses, £280, loewe.com; IBIZA BOHEMIA Book, £65, waterstones.com MARC JACOBS Blouse, £405, farfetch.com; BOTTEGA VENETA Pumps, £685, net-a-porter.com; OVEROSE Candle, £45, matchesfashion.com PRADA Tote Bag, £1,720, farfetch.com; PAT McGRATH, Lip Fetish Balm, £28, patmcgrath.com RAAWII Strøm vase, £75, matchesfashion.com; GUCCI Coat, £2,500, gucci.com
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THE BEAUTY ENTREPRENEUR
SHARMADEAN REID
Sharmadean reveals her go-to beauty products and favourite treatments in the capital on page 60 Sharmadean is the founder and CEO of BeautyStack, the beauty professional booking app. A former stylist and brand consultant - who is also behind custom nail design brand WAH Nails - she set up the company in 2017 with the mission of using technology to economically empower women in the beauty and wellness industries. She has also written books, opened salons across the city, created a product line and, in 2015, was awarded an MBE for services to the beauty industry. MUST-HAVE AW20 BUY Joan Didion’s entire back catalogue. The way she writes is extraordinary.
THE INTERIORS EXPERT
AMY MOOREA WONG Amy charts the latest interior design trends and talent on page 88
With a strong affinity for sustainability in design and a penchant for Scandinavian home style, what journalist Amy doesn’t know about interiors isn’t worth knowing, regularly writing about both cutting-edge and established brands and designers. Formerly Features Editor at ELLE Decoration, Amy has joined The Glossary as contributing interiors editor. MUST-HAVE AW20 BUY… Bright, colourful pieces for my home; I just had a John Booth print framed by We Are Facility in Dalston - the frame is bold blue, yellow and pink.
THE LIFESTYLE CONNOISSEUR
ALICE NAYLOR-LEYLAND Alice talks tablescaping, starting a business and how to host the perfect soirée on page 90 Her passion and flair for entertaining and table decoration saw designer and style influencer Alice launch her eponymous tablescape brand Mrs Alice last year, which offers curated sets of ceramics, linens and ornaments. In September, she announced her first tableware collaboration with actress, model and best friend Poppy Delevingne. MUST-HAVE AW20 BUY A pair of trusty Dr. Martens to tide me over the upcoming winter.
THE HANDBAG DESIGNER
MARINA RAPHAEL
Marina shows us around Hydra, the island that has forever inspired her, on page 82 Marina - a sixth-generation member of the Swarovski family - launched her eponymous luxury handbag brand in 2018, at the age of 21, while simultaneously studying Business Management at King’s College, London. Her covetable bags have built up a loyal following from royalty to pop - all of whom appreciate their clean silhouette and voluminous shape. THIS AUTUMN I’LL BE... Taking the time to reset, to re-organise my workspace and my wardrobe, and assess my new business goals.
THE ARTS AFICIONADO
KATE BRYAN
Kate Bryan shares the contemporary artists we should be buying into on page 18 Kate is an art historian, broadcaster and writer. Alongside presenting programmes including BBC2’s Culture Show and Sky Arts Portrait Artist of the Year, in 2016 she was appointed Head of Collections for Soho House, responsible for developing its global art collection. Last year, she published The Art of Love, profiling artist couples. THIS AUTUMN I’LL BE... Installing recently-acquired pieces in my house, including a painting by Amy Beager and works by Gommie and Sarah Maple. I’m hoping to buy a piece by Dawn Beckles soon.
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New Crow n Collection
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Feel uplifted with this season’s most joyful finds
DELLA VITE
PROSECCO SUPERIORE
BELLA FREUD x KARLA WELCH
Effervescent sisters Cara, Poppy and Chloe Delevingne have launched their own sustainably-produced, Italian-grown Prosecco brand. The Superiore is light and crisp, with notes of citrus blossom. £25.95; selfridges.com
FLORAL STREET ARIZONA BLOOM
This award-winning British brand sells vegan, cruelty-free fragrances in innovative compostable pulp cartons. Its beautiful perfume bottles are refillable, too – take yours into the Covent Garden store and top it up at a 20% discount. £98 for 100ml; floralstreet.com
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T-SHIRT
Raising money for victims of domestic abuse in the UK and US, Bella Freud has joined forces with LA super stylist Karla Welch to launch a limited-edition of eight t-shirts featuring work by artists such as Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud and Ellen Gallagher. $48; xkarla.com
DIOR
BOMBER JACKET
As the mercury drops, cosy up in this reversible lambskin jacket. £4,100; dior.com
DIPTYQUE
WALL DIFFUSER
Diptyque’s new electric wallmounted diffuser scores highly for aesthetic appeal and simplicity - simply plug-in with one of nine emblematic scent cartridges to scent your home. £90; diptyqueparis.com
ACCIDENTALLY WES ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY BOOK
Wally Koval’s new tome Accidentally Wes Anderson is a visually compelling collection of images of unique destinations and quirky landmarks from over 50 countries, each one chosen to encapsulate the imagined worlds of director Wes Anderson. Accidentally Wes Anderson by Wally Koval is published on 29 October (Trapeze, £25) accidentallywesanderson.com
HERMÈS
ROUGE HERMÈS LIPSTICK
Packaged in refillable, covetable colourblock tubes, the new Rouge Hermès Limited Edition collection features three lipsticks in pretty rose-hued shades. Rose Pommette, £62; hermes.com
Roberts, Oceanside, California, circa 1928. Photo by Paul Fuentes
CABANA MAGAZINE x CAROLINA HERRERA JACKIE CARAFE
A colourful collaboration resulting in this eye-catching carafe, made from Venetian glass, that will add a vibrant twist to any tablescape. £265; matchesfashion.com
GUCCI x LIBERTY WALLET
Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele has raided the Liberty fabric archives to create a kitsch collection using its signature floral prints. £575; gucci.com
ANISSA KERMICHE
CERAMIC CANDLESTICKS
Anissa continues to celebrate the female form with the signature curvy silhouettes that have turned her into a cult interiors brand. Body Tall Candlestick, £145, Blobby Candlestick, £245; anissakermiche.com
RICHARD GINORI
SHELL CERAMIC VASE Make waves with this seashell porcelain vase created in collaboration with interior designer Luke Edward Hall. £230; matchesfashion.com
ESTÉE LAUDER
ADVANCED NIGHT REPAIR
Estée Lauder is donating 20% of proceeds from all sales of its limited edition Pink Ribbon Advanced Night Repair serum to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. And, on 21 October, it will also host ‘Time To Unite’, a virtual live self-check event with special guests to help raise awareness. £82; esteelauder.co.uk
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C R E AT I N G C H A N G E . I S L A N D B Y I S L A N D . S U N G L A S S E S M A D E F R O M O C E A N P L A S T I C ® C L E A N W AV E S . C O M
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ZANELE MUHOLI TATE MODERN
5 NOVEMBER – 7 MARCH 2021
Photographer and filmmaker Zanele Muholi self-identifies as a visual activist, their oeuvre telling the stories of black lesbian, gay, bisexual, trans, queer and intersex lives in South Africa since the early 2000s. This major survey showcases 260 of Muholi’s photographs, each of which challenges the nation’s ideologies and representations and depicts the fortitude of its subjects in the face of prejudice, intolerance and violence. tate.org.uk
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Agenda W H A T ’S O N & W H E R E
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TANTRA:
ENLIGHTENMENT TO REVOLUTION BRITISH MUSEUM
Paul Gauguin, Portrait of a Young Girl (Vaïte ‘Jeanne’ Goupil), 1896
Until 24 Januar y 2 021 The British Museum houses one of the most comprehensive collections of Tantric materials in the world. This exhibition - which encapsulates the impact of Tantra, a set of beliefs and rituals that emerged in India around AD500 - brings these treasures to light, allowing the viewer to better understand how this centuries-old philosophy has challenged global political, sexual and gender norms.
britishmuseum.org
The 19th Century Masters
GAUGUIN AND THE IMPRESSIONISTS Until 18 O ctob e r
R OYA L A C A D E M Y A vibrant exhibition bringing together 60 Impressionist showstoppers from the Ordrupgaard Collection, outside Copenhagen, many hitherto unseen in the UK. As well as masterpieces by the likes of Monet, Pissarro and Degas, and pre-Impressionist greats including Corot and Courbet, the show concludes with a focus on post Impressionism, the highlight being a series of eight canvases by Paul Gauguin charting the arc of his career.
royalacademy.org.uk
ELECTRONIC:
From Kraftwerk to The Chemical Brothers DESIGN MUSEUM
Until 14 Febr uar y 2 021 An all-singing, all-dancing foray into the electronic and rave culture, from its origins to its future. Through a series of multi-sensory installations, soundtrack by DJ Laurent Garnier and a 3D Kraftwerk experience, visitors are taken to warehouses and dancefloors across the world as they discover how design, technology and innovation have powered this musical genre.
designmuseum.org
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Artemisia Gentileschi, Self Portrait as the Allegory of Painting (La Pittura), about 1638-9
A R T S & C U LT U R E
SUMMER EXHIBITION
ARTEMISIA T H E N AT I O N A L G A L L E R Y
3 O ctob e r - 24 Januar y 2 021
Above: Artemisia Gentileschi, Self Portrait as Saint Catherine of Alexandria, about 1615-17
Artemisia Gentileschi was the most celebrated female painter of the 17th century, at a time when women artists were not readily accepted. This major exhibition collates Artemisia’s best-known paintings, selfportraits and personal letters to show how she challenged boundaries throughout her life, painting subjects that were traditionally the preserve of the male gaze and depicting women as courageous conspirators and survivors. nationalgallery.org.uk
R OYA L A C A D E M Y
6 O ctob e r - 3 Januar y 2 021 The Royal Academy’s Summer Exhibition has been held annually since 1769 - even throughout the war years - and has become a fixture on the world’s art calendar. Suffice to say it’s still going ahead in 2020, albeit in October. Coordinated by artistic sibling duo Jane and Louise Wilson RA, expect the usual kaleidoscopic display of works by household names and emerging artists in what is now the world’s largest open submission contemporary art show. royalacademy.org.uk
THE ATRE
BEAT THE DEVIL BRIDGE T H E AT R E
Until 31 O ctob e r When critically acclaimed playwright David Hare contracted Covid-19 at the start of lockdown, he decided to pen a work about his experiences. It falls to Ralph Fiennes to pull off this searing monologue, which explores the delirium Hare experienced during his illness, and what the theatre notes as ‘honest medicine and dishonest politics’. bridgetheatre.co.uk
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DEATH OF ENGLAND: DELROY
TALKING HEADS BRIDGE T H E AT R E
N AT I O N A L T H E AT R E
Until 31 O ctob e r
The moving sequel to Death of England, which played at the National’s Dorfman Theatre earlier this year. Written and developed during lockdown, in the wake of the Black Lives Matter protests and the disproportionate effects from Coronavirus suffered by BAME communities, this monologue promises an illuminating journey into the Black British psyche. nationaltheatre.co.uk
Eight of Alan Bennett’s brilliant Talking Heads monologues - first seen on the BBC - are brought to the London stage, with the actors who performed them on TV reprising their roles, from Imelda Staunton as the poisonous Irene in Lady of Letters to Maxine Peake’s exemplary character study in Miss Fozzard Finds Her Feet. bridgetheatre.co.uk
From late O ctob e r
Above: Artemisia Gentileschi, Mary Magdalene in Ecstasy, about 1620-25
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Tracey Emin, I am The Last of my Kind, 2019
Edvard Munch, The Death of Marat, 1907
Tracey Emin, You Kept it Coming, 2019
Edvard Munch, Seated Female Nude, 1923–1933
TRACEY EMIN/EDVARD MUNCH
THE LONELINESS OF THE SOUL R OYA L A C A D E M Y
15 Nove mb e r - 28 Febr uar y 2 021
Tracey Emin RA has long been fascinated and inspired by the work of Norwegian Expressionist Edvard Munch. So much so, she has hand-picked 19 of his oils and watercolours from Oslo’s Munch Museet to sit alongside 25 of her own pieces - paintings, neons and sculptures, some seen here for the first time - for The Loneliness of the Soul. Displayed across the Gabrielle JungelsWinkler Galleries, the show’s theme focuses on grief, loss and longing, with the juxtaposition of the artists’ works inviting the visitor to draw comparisons between the two and how - though separated by time and history - they have both delved into the same emotional landscapes. royalacademy.org.uk Edvard Munch, Seated Female Nude, 1923–1933
Tracey Emin, Because You Kept Touching Me, 2019
Tracey Emin, It - Didnt Stop - I Didnt Stop, 2019.
Tracey Emin, There Was So Much More Of Me, 2019
Edvard Munch, Crouching Nude, 1917-19.
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LYNETTE YIADOMBOAKYE TAT E B R I TA I N
18 Nove mb e r - 9 May 2 021 Fly In League With The Night is the first major survey of Lynette Yiadom-Boakye, one of the most important figurative painters working today. The British artist is widely acclaimed for her oil paintings of fictitious people, ambiguous and enigmatic in their depiction; this show brings together 80 of her works, spanning almost two decades, from YiadomBoakye’s early graduate show pieces to some of her best-known paintings.
tate.org.uk
DUB LONDON: BASSLINE OF A CITY MUSEUM OF LONDON
2 O ctob e r - 31 Januar y 2 021 Dub has had a huge impact on the London music scene, influencing punk and pop to garage and grime. The Museum of London’s display celebrates the musical genre in all its glory, starting with its roots in Jamaican reggae to how dub has shaped communities and culture in the capital over the past five decades, including its continuing role at Notting Hill Carnival. museumoflondon.org.uk THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM
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AMONG THE TREES H AY WA R D G A L L E R Y
Until 31 O ctob e r A thought-provoking look at our relationship with trees from the 1960s onwards, a decade that saw the emergence of the modern environmental movement. From remote Japanese islands to the streets of New York, the show explores the complex spatial and architectural form of trees through sculpture, painting, installation, video and photography, all of which invite us to consider how they have helped shape human civilisation.
southbankcentre.co.uk
TURNER'S MODERN WORLD TAT E B R I TA I N
28 O ctob e r - 7 March 2 021 A deep dive into JMW Turner’s life and times, exploring how Britain’s leading landscape painter captured the momentous events of his day, from the Industrial Revolution to the Napoleonic Wars. The exhibition - which includes major loans and rarely seen works - is a visual feast but also a fascinating insight into what it meant to be a modern artist during the early 19th century. tate.org.uk
UNEARTHED: PHOTOGRAPHY'S ROOTS DULWICH PICTURE GALLERY
21 Nove mb e r - 9 May 2 021
For its first ever major photography exhibition, Dulwich Picture Gallery explores the history of the medium through depictions of plants and botany. Expect over 100 works by 37 leading photographers, starting from the Victorian greats including William Henry Fox Talbot through to contemporary artists like Robert Mapplethorpe and Nobuyoshi Araki, all of which manifest the startling technical innovations in photography. dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk 16
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LEILAH BABIRYE STEPHEN FRIEDMAN GALLERY
Until 7 Nove mb e r Stephen Friedman Gallery represents some of the biggest names in contemporary art. To mark its 25th anniversary, the Mayfair institution is both putting on an exhibition to represent the diversity of its programme and has announced the representation of three new artists including Ugandan artist Leila Babirye, whose works address issues surrounding identity, sexuality and human rights. stephenfriedman.com
ACCELERATE YOUR ESCAPE: GARY HUME EXPLORES THE HISCOX COLLECTION WHITECHAPEL GALLERY
Until 3 Januar y 2 021 Global insurance company Hiscox has been investing in modern and contemporary art for over half a century, and now owns seminal works by the likes of Joan Mirรณ, David Hockney and Pablo Picasso. In the first of two consecutive artist-curated shows (the other artist is Sol Calero), Gary Hume draws from this rich collection, inviting us to escape the everyday in his personal selection. whitechapelgallery.org
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Artist Focus
Rising
STARS Art historian and curator Kate Bryan reveals the upcoming artistic talent you should be supporting and investing in right now W o r d s LUCY SCOVELL
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he appreciation of art has taken on a new meaning this year, whether as a means of boosting our mental health or providing a much-needed form of escapism. But while many galleries have now reopened their doors to the public, much of the upcoming art calendar remains in the digital realm. For the uninitiated, dealing with the online art world and figuring out which artists we should be collecting can be tricky to navigate, especially when you can only see work virtually. Here, Kate Bryan, Soho House’s Global Head of Collections, gives her advice on the best ways to tap into the digital art scene and the top contemporary artists to invest in right now. “We are living in an unprecedented time in history, when buying a piece of art is quite a poignant, sensitive, even historic thing to do,” explains Bryan, over the phone. Instagram remains a fertile place to start looking for affordable art, Bryan assures me, albeit a potentially overwhelming one: “Don’t just blindly start scrolling. Plug into the hashtags driving initiatives in support of independent artists.” 18
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A R T S & C U LT U R E
Christabel Blackburn, What Am I Supposed To See?
One such brilliant example is the Artist Support Pledge (#artistsupportpledge), which was set up by British artist Matthew Burrows when lockdown began and is still flourishing. The concept is simple: artists post images of their work online selling for no more than £200 each. Kate Bryan Each time an artist reaches £1,000 of sales, he or she pledges to play it forward and purchase another artist’s work for £200. Big name artists, including Sir Quentin Blake and Rachel Howard, and rising stars alike have offered and bought works, triggering an unprecedented volume of online sales. “There has been this unexpected coming together of art communities in response to the pandemic,” says Bryan. “We’re really seeing the power of strength in numbers.” That strength’s latest embodiment came in the form of Art for Charity Collective, which saw artists put up pieces to be auctioned for charity via Instagram. The initiative, which ran over 4 days in September, saw investors bid directly under the post featuring the piece they like – a fully accessible, virtual auction to fit in with our ‘new normal’. Of course, for some collectors, purchasing an artwork without having seen it offline is a daunting, even unnerving new prospect. Embrace the risk and start the conversation, Bryan advises. “When you’re buying a work of art, you’re not buying a massproduced factory product, you’re buying into a person, into their creative brain. Even if you’ve seen a work in a gallery it will look different in your home — there’s always going to be an element of the unknown.” If you’re willing to take a leap of faith, look no further than Subject Matter Art’s Lockdown Commissions series. Collectors pay £150 to have a work exclusively created for them by their roster of artists. The actual work you will receive, however, will be a complete surprise. “It’s a brilliant way of supporting and connecting with new artists that you may never have come across previously,” explains Bryan, who has herself acquired a work by textile artist Nadia Nizamudin through the initiative. For all its pitfalls, Instagram has proved an unparalleled launchpad for fresh, new talent. The digital landscape has allowed new people to come into the art world from both a collecting and showing point of view, notes Bryan. “It gets rid of boundaries, such as income, class, disability, gender, diversity, and allows [the art world] to be a much fairer playing field for everyone.” In addition to accessibility, the move online has greatly facilitated transparency, especially when it comes to prices. “There is a visibility in the art world that just wasn’t there before,” adds Bryan, citing Frieze New York’s decision to display the prices of works in their online Viewing Rooms back in May. A similar concept in expected for the London edition this October. “This open-door policy feels really quite exciting.” Here, she picks her top artists to support in 2020 who are creating serious buzz.
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CHRISTABEL BLACKBURN
Back in January, Christabel Blackburn won the Sky Arts Portrait Artist of the Year Award, an annual competition programme for which Bryan is a judge. “She’s an artist already making waves in the art world proper,” notes Bryan. “She’s such an interesting painter with just the right cool aesthetic.” Inspired by David Hockney and Edward Hopper, Blackburn’s reduced minimalist language evokes a remarkable sense of solitude and stillness. Her work has been shown at celebrated institutions, galleries such as the Royal Academy and Alex Eagle Studio. Her pieces are available for purchase via Partnership Editions and Instagram, but be warned – they don’t hang around for long. partnershipeditions.com
GOMMIE
Ollie Gomm, also known as Gommie, started to make his colourful works of acrylic paint, ink, mud, doodles and poems on ordinance survey maps around three years ago, while traversing the UK on foot. The poems are rooted in the words and sayings of the people he met along the way. “I’ve not really seen anyone working the terrain he is occupying in the sense that he is making physical manifestations of poetry,” says Bryan, who awarded Gommie the Soho House Art Prize at The Other Art Fair in October last year. “He’s brought poetry into the art world really elegantly.”
Above: Gommie, Map 14 – I want to fight now Right: Gommie, Liverpool I Dream
Gommie’s participatory practice has garnered him loyal support from the theatre and poetry community, as well as from his rapidly growing Instagram following. Earlier this year he held his first solo show at Messums in Mayfair, where collectors were quick to snap up his work. “It’s such a good moment to acquire a Gommie,” claims Bryan. “I can’t imagine they will be this cheap for much longer. [A large finished painting will set you back around £2,000] The momentum behind him is really thrilling. Things like this don’t happen very often.” gommie.com
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DAWN BECKLES
Known for her vibrant, contemporary interpretations of the classic still life, mixed media artist Dawn Beckles is often inspired by her native Barbados. Today, her colourful art has been installed by Bryan in Shoreditch House, Babington House and in the reception of Soho Farmhouse, where it inspired Noel Fielding to text Bryan immediately asking to know more about the artist behind it. Clearly, Beckles is making waves. “Dawn creates joyfully sublime paintings,” says Bryan. “She’s got a real passion for showing you the way that people get very intimately connected to the things they own. Each of her gorgeous interiors is full of meaning, so that every single pot or flower or piece of furniture she paints in like a love letter to the owner. The result is Richard Hamilton [the great British pop artist] meets a young woman from Barbados – that intersection is really interesting.” Expect her to be popping up on your radar a lot more soon. dawnbeckles.com
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Sarah Maple, Plug It In Baby
SARAH MAPLE
British mixed-media artist Sarah Maple creates bold, brave, occasionally controversial works that seek to deconstruct stereotyping of gender, identity and religion. Inspired by her mixed cultural upbringing, Maple’s work is widely revered for fusing pop and religious references with fierce political wit. “She’s always pushing the boundaries and is not afraid to cause offence,” explains Bryan. “Everyone is really starting to take notice of her very original voice.”
October sees Bryan curate an exhibition of Maple’s work at Shoreditch’s Jealous Gallery. “One of the key pieces is a pioneering work which fuses video art with sitcoms,” says Bryan. “It’s an amazing blend of fact and fiction, and will be also aired on Sky Arts, helping bring video to people’s homes during a time when it can be difficult to get to museums and galleries.” sarahmaple.com
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Eliza Hopewell, Coo First Go
Eliza Hopewell is the unapologetic artist turning the 18th-century tradition of painting plates on its head. Her quirky ceramic masterpieces feature women, often nude, of all shapes, sizes and backgrounds in a manner of supposedly ‘taboo’ poses: masturbating, menstruating, shaving their legs. “She has really broadened the representation of women in painting,” explains Bryan. “Her work is playful, provocative and distinctive in message and voice.” Hopewell’s unique brand of feminism has caught the eye of celebrity collectors, including Jemima Kahn, Richard Curtis, Kate Moss and Bella Freud. “Now she’s taking her work to the next stage. As well as bigger paintings, she’s also started making functional art objects in the form of tables with painted tiles in collaboration with her artist partner Theo Vass. Jools Holland is among those commissioning these covetable objects.” adds Bryan. While no names can be mentioned at this point, Bryan confirms Hopewell has received commissions from some seriously big hitters. elizahopewellplates.com
GINA SODEN
Gina Soden is best known for her photographs of abandoned buildings and undisclosed sites across Europe, which she often enters with unlicensed access. Her studied, almost painterly compositions explore the
Gina Soden, Ingresso 2018
ELIZA HOPEWELL
boundaries of beauty, decay, nostalgia and neglect, and conjure romantic notions of the ‘sublime.’ “She just makes these places sing,” Bryan notes. “Her work has become a fascinating exploration of the way we adore and then abuse architecture.” Soden now has works in the collections of the Ned, Soho House, Groucho Club and Goldman Sachs in London. This season sees Soden’s
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first ever solo show in Germany, a move which Bryan only expects to elevate her success further: “I think her work will have a lot of resonance in Berlin because of its relationship to architecture.” The current price of a standard print from an edition of 10 is now around £2,000, for which you’d get “a show-stopper piece for the home,” says Bryan. ginasoden.co.uk 23
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STYLE Giant Strides Francis de Lara, the fine jewellery-eyewear house founded by acclaimed fashion photographer John-Paul Pietrus, is one of twelve jewellers to create a sustainable collection to be sold in support of international conservation charity Space With Giants, in partnership with Gemfields. The de Lara capsule consists of three unique Africa-inspired pieces – Kinee’s Love earrings, the Safari Sunset Bloom ring and The Purple Ribbon sunglasses, each made with ethically-sourced rubies – with 50 percent of the profits helping towards protecting the continent’s elephants and their natural habitat. Available at francisdelara.com
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Fashion Notes Etro puts nature centre stage, sustainability rules supreme, and hair accessories get a new spin C o m p i l e d b y C HARLOTTE ADS E TT
NATURAL WONDERS SCREEN SAVERS
In the Zoom age, where the focus for fashion remains solely on the shoulders up, this season’s savior is the statement sculptural earring. London-based jewellery brand Completedworks handcrafts pieces using primarily recycled materials to create chic, mismatched designs guaranteed to draw the eye. Cohesion Gold Vermeil Earrings, £250, completedwords.com
Shared unity between man and beast is the concept of Etro’s ecologically-focussed Autumn/Winter 2020 campaign, in which 28 animal friends star. As well as reflecting the spirit of universal connection, the concept highlights Etro’s commitment to sustainability, which is at the heart of the brand. By featuring pieces from its archive, the Italian fashion house also flags its focus on timeless heirlooms, designed to be handed down through the generations. etro.com
Circular Style In partnership with The Outnet, Alex Eagle is hosting a virtual car boot sale on Saturday 7 November to raise money for Women for Women International. Alice Temperley, Charlotte Olympia, Olivia von Halle and many others will be selling pieces from their wardrobe and samples from past collections for a steal. womenforwomen.org.uk/ virtualcarbootsale
Modern Tailoring
CHECK MATE Check and tweeds abound in Sarah Burton’s most recent collection for Alexander McQueen, which is both shot in and inspired by Wales. The British fashion house’s autumn campaign stars model of the moment Sora Choi, who wears pieces that celebrate the artistic and poetic heritage of Wales, from its rich folklore to its beautiful crafts. alexandermcqueen.com
SLIDE ON OVER
Proving that you don’t need a vertiginous heel to look chic, Givenchy’s chain-embellished backless leather loafers are a lesson in effortless style. Loafers, £640, matchesfashion.com
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GET A GRIP The easiest way to add some French elegance this season? A wellplaced barrette. Hair clips aren’t just AW20’s most accessible trend, they are also the most inclusive too, thanks to their ability to suit all hair types. Opt for embellishments, such as pearls, diamante and studs, to elevate the look.
FENDI F Is Fendi Hair Clip, £350, fendi,Com
FROM TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: DIOR J’adior Antique Gold-Finish Hair Pin, £320, dior.com MARC JACOBS Cystal-Logo Hairpin, £60, farfetch.com ROSANTICA Canasta Hair Clip , £150, net-a-porter.com PRADA Marbled-Acrylic Hair Clip, £225, prada.com CHLOE Callie Pearl-Drop Hair Clip, £255, matchesfashion.com LOEWE Pearl-Embellished Hair Pin, £295, farfetch.com FENDI F Is Fendi Hair Clip, £350, fendi.com GUCCI Crystal-Logo Hair Slide, £580, matchesfashion.com VERSACE Greca Air Pin £240, versace.com SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Crystal Hairclip, £115, ferragamo.com
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Wool jacket, £1,150
Wool jacket, £1,250
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Na
SUPERMODEL, ENTREPRENEUR, ACTIVIST, INNOVATOR… NAOMI CAMPBELL HAS BLAZED A TRAIL FOR OVER 30 YEARS. HERE, THE CULTURAL ICON REMINISCES ABOUT HER ERA-DEFINING CAREER
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Shot for Vogue, Italy, April 1990.© Ellen von Unwerth
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aomi Campbell needs little by way of introduction. Now into the fourth decade of her glittering career, she has graced the cover of over 500 magazines, appeared in campaigns for virtually every major fashion house and is undoubtedly the runway model of all time, her walk unsurpassable. Though her trajectory to supermodel status was swift (she was on the cover of Vogue by the age of 18), it was the early 90s when it reached its zenith, with Naomi, alongside fellow supers Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer and Kate Moss captivating the world. Who can forget George Michael’s iconic Freedom video? Having turned 50 earlier this year, Naomi shows no signs of slowing down. In April she launched her own YouTube show, No Filter with Naomi, in which she has honest discussions with her friends (Anna
Wintour, Sharon Stone, Serena Williams et al). It makes for compelling viewing, not least to the social media-savvy Gen Z; indeed, Naomi currently has 9.7million followers on Instagram and rising. It was also announced in the summer that Naomi was to be the first-ever face of Pat McGrath Labs, the recently-valued-atmore-than-$1billion makeup line created by her friend, the legendary makeup artist Pat McGrath. But it’s never just been about being in front of a camera for Naomi. Unafraid to use her platform to speak out about issues close to her heart, she has forever been a trailblazer for diversity, becoming the first black model to grace the cover of a number of magazines. Indefatigable when it comes to philanthropic issues too, Naomi founded the charity Fashion For Relief in 2005 to raise funds for environmental and humanitarian causes. Last year, she became the first woman of colour to receive the Fashion Icon award at the British Fashion Awards for her contribution to the fashion industry and her charitable work. Here, Naomi talks about London, the positive influence of friendship and being racially sidelined in the fashion industry.
“When I first started out, I wasn’t being booked for certain shows because of the colour of my skin. For whatever reason, those designers simply didn’t use black girls; I didn’t let it rattle me. From attending auditions and performing at an early age, I understood what it meant to be black" THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM
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Shot in Deauville, France, for Vogue, Italy, July/August 1988.© Peter Lindbergh Foundation
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never planned on being a model. It wasn’t something I even thought about. As a teenager I wanted to dance, and I was happy to be studying theatre arts at school. It was only when I met Beth Boldt, the head of Synchro Agency, that the idea of modelling first occurred to me. I remember the day she spotted me in the street. It was a warm April afternoon. I was hanging out in Covent Garden with my friends, who were blonde and beautiful. I should have gone straight home after school but Covent Garden was always such a fun artsy place, full of music and people dancing in the square, that I liked stopping there on the way back. Suddenly a woman came up to me and asked if I’d ever thought of modelling. That was Beth. I noticed her American accent – that Southern drawl of hers – straight away. She seemed sincere and kind. My immediate reaction was surprise and excitement, in fact a lot of feelings rolled into one. I look back now and think that if I’d been the agent I wouldn’t have approached me. I’m not saying black isn’t beautiful, but to be picked while I was standing next to my friends – well, let’s just say God bless Beth for noticing me. It wasn’t long before I was heading out on go-sees after school. I used to sneak out a pair of my mum’s high heels and maybe a leather jacket to throw over my blazer. All of my school friends were excited for me, but I had to keep the modelling work quiet from the teachers at Italia Conti because we weren’t supposed to be taking on work out of school. I started to shoot with photographers like Tony McGee and Eamonn McCabe. (Eamonn shot me for Company magazine, which I loved because there was a London stamp of approval to it: the clothes were funky
and fun and I liked the way the editors put things together.) But mostly I shot with Martin Brading. He wasn’t just the first photographer I worked with but also the one who booked me for my first big advertising job, a campaign for Richmond-Cornejo, the label set up by John Richmond and Maria Cornejo, for which I wore a white ‘parachute’ skirt and peep-toe ankle boots and nothing else. When I started modelling, I hadn’t wanted to tell my mum because she was so against the idea. When I finally did tell her, it was a bit of an issue because I’d deceived her. I was coming home later than I should. She hadn’t known where I was and being a mum she worried. I showed her some Polaroids from a couple of shoots I’d worked on. She was into them, but in her mind school was still the most important thing. Beth spoke to her a few times on the phone to soften her up and eventually it was decided I could continue so long as it didn’t interfere with my schoolwork or my upcoming exams. (I took my O-levels just before my 16th birthday.)
“I have had my challenges as a black model, but in many ways I feel like one of the lucky few. If my career has taught me anything, it’s that you can always turn prejudice around, that you should never give up. Racism is just ignorance" THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM
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London was where I first met Christy Turlington, in 1986. A few months later we ran into each other in Paris. By December we were roommates in New York. From our very first meeting she was so much fun. We met on a three-day shoot for the Warehouse catalogue. I was still at school, so I think I turned up for hair and make-up in my uniform. Stephanie Seymour was also there with three other girls. I remember laughing a lot with Stephanie. Even then she struck me as kind of hippyish, but very feminine. She has this amazing sex appeal and she oozes sensuality. She also has a great heart and a wicked sense of humour. A real girl’s girl. As for Christy, she’d flown over for the shoot from New York and I’d just seen her on the cover of British Vogue. She was lovely in person and very welcoming. We’d only just met and she was telling me I should be her roommate and hang out with her when I came to New York. That’s typical of Christy; she’s the real deal. She enjoys life. She shares her happiness with everyone around her and she’s very loyal. You don’t meet many people like her.
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THIS PAGE: Shot in 2005 for GQ, Italy, February 2006. © Peter Lindbergh Foundation; LEFT: Shot for Vogue, Spain, March 1995 Photograph by Matthew Rolston @ Copyright 2013, Matthew Rolston Photographer, Inc., all rights reserved; PREVIOUS PAGE: Outtake from the album cover shoot in 1994 for `I Want to Live', released in 1995. © Ellen von Unwerth
STYLE
A few months later I met Linda Evangelista at a show in Paris, although my first sighting of her was at our agency. She was with Elite, I was with Elite Plus; there wasn’t much difference apart from the bookers. We weren’t introduced, but I remember seeing her across the room, sitting in a chair with her long hair framing those incredibly beautiful eyes. Linda’s a chameleon. She reinvents herself constantly. That’s what makes her such a great model. As a friend, she was always the most maternal among us. She wanted to take care of everyone and see that no one was being taken advantage of. She was like a mother hen. I was only 17 when I left London for New York and moved into Christy’s beautiful SoHo apartment on Centre Street. Christy and I were travelling so much that we weren’t often around at the same time; whenever Christy was away I left food out for her cat. When Christy and I were in New York at the same time, we really had fun. It was a special time for us. Everyone felt safe. There were no camera phones. We could speak openly and request a song in a restaurant and get up and dance. It was a more relaxed time. As we worked hard, we figured we deserved to dress up and go out for nice dinners or to a movie or concert.
I’d bought my own apartment on East 30th Street by the time I was 19. Linda lived in the same building on the third floor; I was on the seventh floor and she often came up for dinner. We were like family. I liked to cook; it was something I’d picked up from my grandmother. I’d often prepare meals for friends, mostly ‘island’ dishes like chicken and rice and anything spicy. I’ve always had a special feeling for New York and I think that’s because I got my first place there. In Paris, Papa Azzedine [Alaïa] was always there to look after me. But in New York I was really growing up: living my own life, dealing with life’s daily challenges, and becoming a young independent woman. My schedule was mad. It wasn’t unusual for me to be in New York on Monday, leave that night for Paris, come back on Tuesday and crisscross the Atlantic up to three times that week. (Actually, I still travel that way.) Travelling from city to city, I’d make friends in each country. Now if I go to Turkey, I have friends there; if I’m in Spain, I have friends there, too. Over the years I’ve built up a group of friends around the world. When I was travelling, I did at least have my Sony Walkman and I’d spend hours listening to Joan Armatrading,
“We were truly friends, happy to be enjoying ourselves together. I guess that energy was what people saw when they labelled us ‘the Trinity’. I have great memories of the times we spent together” On her friendship with fellow supermodels Christy Turlington and Linda Evangelista
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Culture Club, Bananarama, ABC, the Eurythmics, Aretha Franklin, Wham! and the Psychedelic Furs. It was always good to have an Alaïa dress in my bag and a scarf I could throw over the lamp in my hotel room to create some sort of atmosphere. I got my first mobile phone when I was 18 or 19 (a gift from my boyfriend), so I had that with me, too. When I first started out, Linda and Christy were both really supportive. I wasn’t being booked for certain shows because of the colour of my skin. For whatever reason, those designers simply didn’t use black girls; I didn’t let it rattle me. From attending auditions and performing at an early age, I understood what it meant to be black. You had to put in the extra effort. You had to be twice as good. When I first went to castings in London, I saw a lot of girls who took rejection badly. I didn’t necessarily know them, but I told them exactly what my mother told me: don’t take it personally, because that’s just the nature of the business. I have had my challenges as a black model, but in many ways I feel like one of the lucky few. If my career has taught me anything, it’s that you can always turn prejudice around, that you should never give up. Racism is just ignorance. And I was lucky to have Linda and Christy stand up for me. They told certain designers that if they wanted to have them in their show – which they did – they had to book me, too. That kind of support was unheard of. I will be forever touched. When I got to walk in those shows, I felt a huge sense of victory, but also gratitude. It was great not to feel alone and to be able to share my success with the two of them. We supported each other. There was a sense of unity and camaraderie. We were truly friends, happy to be enjoying ourselves together. I guess that energy was what people saw when they labelled us ‘the Trinity’. I have great memories of the times we spent together. This is an edited excerpt from ‘Naomi. Updated Edition’ (Taschen, £100); taschen.com 37
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Bags of a p p e a l As a major new exhibition opens at the V&A in celebration of the bag, curator Lucia Savi provides an insight into our longstanding fascination with this most ubiquitous of accessories
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W o r d s HARRIET COOPER
f you’ve always dreamed of clapping eyes on the actual purple, sequinned Fendi ‘Baguette’ that was famously stolen from Carrie Bradshaw, played by Sarah Jessica Parker, at gunpoint in Sex and the City (to quote Carrie when the assailant asks her to hand over her bag: “Oh, it’s not a bag. It’s a Baguette”), you’re in luck. The iconic envelope-shaped handbag is just one of 300-plus exhibits in the latest blockbuster show from the Victoria & Albert Museum, Bags: Inside Out, which opens this Autumn. Designer totes, vanity cases, despatch boxes, military rucksacks… no shape, style or size of bag has been overlooked by curator Lucia Savi in the V&A’s quest to showcase its function, status and craftsmanship, spanning the 16th century to the present day. “The V&A has previously staged exhibitions dedicated to shoes and hats, but never to the bag,” Savi tells The Glossary. “This will showcase the museum’s rich collection, as well as providing an opportunity to acquire new pieces, historical and contemporary, to fill in the inevitable gaps.” From an exquisitely embroidered gold and red burse used to protect the silver matrix of Elizabeth I’s Great Seal of England right through to the dazzlingly gold Louis Vuitton ‘Monogram Miroir’ Speedy designed by Marc Jacobs, via a gas mask bag owned by HRH Queen Mary during the Second World War, each exhibit provides an unprecedented insight into our enduring fascination with the much-loved accessory. Particular standouts include the first-ever Hermès Birkin bag, made for actress and singer Jane Birkin in 1984 after a chance encounter with Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight inspired the CEO of Hermès to create a bag that was suitable for globetrotting women. The prototype - a roomy rectangular leather holdall - went on to become one of the most in-demand accessories in the world. Also on display are Mulberry handbags worn by Kate Moss and Alex Chung, including the eradefining satchel Alexa – named after the British style icon – which was the must-have accessory for the effortlessly cool when it was first introduced in 2009. 38
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“Bags are both a private possession and a public statement: throughout history and across cultures they have occupied a very special space that is both on display and very discreet,” says Savi. “I would like visitors to be surprised by the incredible richness of the design and materials used to make bags throughout history and to discover how men as well as women have been using bags of different types, and how their purpose has driven their design and shape.” Savi has divided the exhibition, which is sponsored by Mulberry, into three themes. Visitors are first invited to explore Function, which looks at the bag from its purely practical perspective, an object designed to hold everything from our everyday necessities to more treasured belongings. Here you’ll find Winston Churchill’s red despatch box, used when he was Secretary of State for the Colonies in the 1920s, sitting alongside, amongst other things, Vivien Leigh’s attaché case and a dowry bag (bhujki), an intricate creation of silk, sequins, gold thread, beads and mirrors, used in Pakistan in the mid-20th century. The exquisitely restored c.1900 Louis Vuitton ‘malle haute’ trunk is particularly eye-catching, custom-made for American socialite Emilie Grigsby, whose labels and markings reveal a hidden history of its travels on the world’s great ocean liners. “Travel lies at the heart of some of today’s global fashion brands - such as Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada - all of which began as producers of luxury travel goods. Many of the bags these companies make today continue to reference travel heritage in their design,” says Savi. It’s fascinating, but so too is the next part of the show - Status and Identity - which explores the role of the bag in celebrity culture, with instantly recognisable pieces on display including the Hermès Kelly, named after American actress and Monégasque princess Grace Kelly, and the boxy, quilted ‘Lady Dior’, a favourite of Princess Diana.
Above: Kate Moss with the Mulberry Bayswater bag in 2003; Left: Alexa Chung with her Mulberry Alexa bag in 2010
forward-thinking ‘I am NOT a plastic bag’ tote which spearheaded the phenomenon. The show’s third and final section looks at design, lifting the lid on the ingenuity employed by leading fashion houses. “I’d like visitors to focus on the complex process of bag-making, the techniques and materials. From creative sketches to precise technical drawings, from prototype to catwalk, every stage requires careful thought,” continues Savi. “Originally hand-stitched at home or crafted in small workshops, today’s massproduced bags are assembled in factories. Each procedure requires special skills, from pattern-making, cutting and dyeing, to sewing, polishing and finishing.” A highlight is the celebration of experimental design and the humour that can be evoked from accessories, from a frog-shaped 17th-century purse through to a Chanel bag transformed into a milk carton; also, how the humble bag has been the subject of many an art-meets-fashion collaboration - the Prada nylon bag reinvented by Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima, for example, and the ‘International Woman’ suitcase by Tracey Emin for Longchamp. And then finally we are encouraged to look to the future and the designers leading the charge to create bags using innovative and sustainable materials, including a Stella McCartney backpack made from recycled ocean plastic waste and a bag crafted from decommissioned fire hoses by Elvis and Kresse. “With this exhibition I wanted to highlight how bags are complex accessories that marry together function and symbolism, inside and outside, private and public,” concludes Savi. “Their allure is multi-layered: they carry many different objects and are functional objects, but they also carry many different meanings, from one place to another, and can project to the world who we are.” Whether the boldest of fashion statements or used to house our most treasured belongings, one thing is for certain, this show will be your bag.
“With this exhibition I wanted to highlight how bags are complex accessories that marry together function and symbolism, inside and outside, private and public” This section also delves into the ‘It bag’ phenomenon from the late 1990s, when celebrity association helped drive luxury bag sales. Cue Carrie and the famous Fendi ‘Baguette’; though already a hit when it was launched in 1997 by Silvia Venturini Fendi, SATC’s costume designer Patrica Field cemented its popularity and, to date, more than a million have been sold. Another interesting aspect is how luxury handbags were a symbol of power, the obvious example being Margaret Thatcher, whose Asprey numbers were often cited as her secret weapon. But while celebrities used bags to their own advantage, so too did designers who, realising they could be a blank canvas, sent bags down the runway adorned with slogans, personal statements and political messages. Interestingly not a new idea (one of the objects on display is an anti-slavery reticule bag from 1825), it was Anya Hindmarch’s
‘Bags: Inside Out’ is at the V&A from 21 November 2020 until 12 September 2021. vam.ac.uk
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Sporting Louis Vuitton’s famed monogram print, the Speedy was a smaller version of the Keepall at just 30cm wide; designed for everyday use, it was later iconicized by Audrey Hepburn in the 1950s. £830; louisvuitton.com
Named by Coco Chanel after the month and year in which it was first made, the 2.55, with its rectangular shape, quilted texture, signature chain and ‘Mademoiselle turnlock’, is a staple of the house. £6,000; farfetch.com
First released in the 1950s as the ‘Constance’, this hobo bag was so beloved by Jackie Kennedy Onassis who used it to shield from paparazzi, that it soon became synonymous with the former first lady. £1,410; gucci.com
When Jane Birkin sat next to Hermès chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas on a plane, they discussed the young mother’s need for a spacious holdall. So the Birkin was born, with space for baby bottles. £16,500; farfetch.com
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ICONIC INVESTMENT
Bags
EXQUISITE CRAFTSMANSHIP AND TIMELESS SILHOUETTES HAVE ENSURED THE EVERLASTING APPEAL OF THESE CLASSIC STYLES
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The ‘Lady Dior’ - with its quilted Cannage motif and metallic charms on the handle - became a firm favourite of Princess Diana after she was gifted it by France’s First Lady, Bernadette Chirac. £3,600; dior.com
Designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, the Baguette was the perfect size to fit under the arm. Thanks to the logo mania of the 90s and a certain Carrie Bradshaw, its status as a cult classic was sealed. £1,980; fendi.com
When Kate Moss spotted a sample of the Balenciaga City backstage at a fitting, she immediately fell for its soft leather, zips and tassels and requested one - and the soon-to-be cult carryall was put into production. £1,750; balenciaga.com
Reminiscent of the medicine-style bags of the 1950s, this classic zip tote takes its name from the “Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II” in Milan, where brand founder Mario Prada opened his first store. £1,990; prada.com
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New Season
BAG EDIT THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO AUTUMN’S MOST COVETABLE STYLES AND FUTURE CLASSICS C o m p i l e d b y CH AR LOTTE ADSETT
LOEWE Balloon From £1,650
SAINT LAURENT Cassandra
A distinctive clean-lined silhouette, beautifully crafted and lightweight, the bucket-style Balloon - which comes in small, standard and large sizes - has arrived in earthy hues this season.
£1,580
The latest iteration of the Cassandra bag, with its structured box shape and pivoting YSL monogram closure, features a leather top handle this season, in addition to its detachable shoulder strap.
loewe.com
matchesfashion.com
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN The Story
From £1,650 With its glossy gold hardware and detachable chain strap, the capacious The Story is designed to be worn as both a clutch, and as a shoulder bag.
alexandermcqueen.com
BOTTEGA VENETA Chain Cassette £2,800
A fresh take on Bottega’s signature intrecciato weave, this time with padded strips of leather for a puff y silhouette and featuring an adjustable chunky chain-link strap.
bottegaveneta.com
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STYLE
CHRISTIAN DIOR Bobby £2,700
Named after Monsieur Dior’s beloved dog Bobby, this elegantly curved hobo-style satchel handbag comes in black, white, tan and the house’s Oblique canvas.
dior.com
FENDI Peekaboo £3,150
This 2020 update on Fendi’s classic design sees the Peekaboo retain its twist lock, but add a sofa pink nappa leather lining and removable, customisable inner pocket.
fendi.com
LOUIS VUITTON Pont 9 £2,680
A loving homage to the oldest bridge in Paris, the LV Pont Neuf features the exclusive 1930s archived Louis Vuitton Circle, a signature reinterpreted by Nicolas Ghesquière.
louisvuitton.com
TELFAR Shopper £200
Black-owned, non-gendered fashion project Telfar first launched its Shopping Bag (a.k.a the ‘Bushwick Birkin’) in 2014, but 2020 was the year it transformed into an It-Bag. Made of 100% vegan leather, these bags have been constantly sold out this season, but by pre-ordering now you’re guaranteed to receive one in January.
telfar.net
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N EW CLASSIC
CRAIG MCDEAN
35 years since it first adorned wrists, Cartier’s Pasha de Cartier watch has had a revamp. While its distinctive design - a square filigree rail-track set inside a round dial - remains, the reiteration features a jewelled crown with a blue spinel or sapphire and interchangeable straps. In keeping with the timepiece’s cool, androgyneous aesthetic, the French luxury house has chosen a cast of new Pasha ambassadors including Willow Smith, Rami Malek and Maisie Williams. £12,800. cartier.co.uk
The
Watch&Jewellery EDIT
THE DAZZLING NEW TRENDS & COVETABLE LAUNCHES TO KNOW
C o m p i l e d b y MING LIU
CU FF LOV E Elsa Peretti’s Bone Cuff for Tiffany has seduced a glittering bevy of fans – Grace Jones, Sophia Loren, Gisele Bündchen, Keira Knightly among them – since landing on the scene in the 1970s. To mark its 50th birthday, the cuff has been reimagined not once, but twice - both times with an injection of colour. Earlier in the year, new copper renditions were covered in vibrant green, red and blue metallic finishes; while September saw the classic silver and 18ct yellow gold versions inlaid with hand-carved turquoise, black and green jade stones and inscribed with the words ‘special edition’. tiffany.co.uk
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STYLE
A H E A D OF TH E CU RV E
Van Cleef & Arpels’ bead-themed Perlée collection sees a serious voluminous treatment this Autumn with a punchy new line of yellow, white and rose gold rings. Striking in its proportions and oozing a sensual, mid-century vibe, the ring boldly wraps around the finger as vaulted golden gadroons – a series of convex curves each individually cra ed by hand – meet in a gold dome of pave diamonds of different sizes. For a statement-maker, this is it. Harrods, Selfridges and 9 New Bond Street, Mayfair, W1
vancleefarpels.com
I N A SPI N
Tactile and talismanic, Piaget’s Possession collection turns 30 this year with four commemorative pieces crafted in yellow gold, which pay homage to the very first yellow gold Possession ring. Featuring a signature central turning band that can be playfully twirled and swivelled by the wearer, the anniversary pieces include three diamondset bangles in two sizes, plus a 29mm watch with a double gold band of diamonds – one of which delightfully and wonderfully spins, of course. 169 New Bond Street, Mayfair, W1 piaget.com
Creating a Buzz
TAKE CHARGE
M ASTER PI ECE
Patek Philippe devotees will be delighted to learn that the luxury Swiss watchmaker has completed its new manufacturing facility in Geneva and, to mark the occasion, the brand has created a watch in a limited edition of 1,000 pieces. Die-hard collectors will lust over the new Calatrava Ref. 6007, which comes in polished steel (a rare material in Patek Philippe’s collections) with a special ‘carbon’ motif dial, created to commemorate the new facility. £21,710. 16 New Bond Street, Mayfair, W1 patek.com
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How to channel fashion’s love of logomania into fine jewellery? Cue Louis Vuitton’s attention-grabbing Volt collection, which crafts the house’s iconic L and V letters into dynamic and graphic, unisex gems. Supercharged with energy and movement, the new collection is accompanied by a campaign fronted by Alicia Vikander, principal dancer Hugo Marchand, the artist Sharon Alexie (above) and Chinese model XiaoXing Mao. louis v uitton.com
Top right: LV Volt Band Ring in Pink Gold and Diamond, £3,400 Above: LV Volt Bracelet in Yellow Gold and Diamonds, £10,700
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Fine Jewellery
High
Definition
Traditional houses rose to the challenge of presenting their 2020 high jewellery collections virtually, with dazzling digital displays of rare stones and craft virtuosity W o r d s SARAH ROYCE-GREENSILL
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igh jewellery launches usually come with a degree of fanfare. Every year, brands outdo each other with opulent, outlandish events for their VIPs: from private ballet performances within worldfamous opera houses to helicopter rides to glitzy Mediterranean hotspots. Black-tie balls and celebrity-studded gala dinners are par for the course. Of course, this year was different. The world went into lockdown just as most houses were putting the finishing touches to their 2020 collections, which left them with a double quandary: how on earth would they complete these timeintensive, handcrafted jewels, let alone present them to clients who were unable to travel? By its very nature jewellery is best appreciated in person, but thanks to technical ingenuity and creative thinking, many managed to excite and inspire from afar. Some creative directors shared their inspirations via webcasts, following up with one-to-one video calls with VIP clients. Others invested in slick behind-the-scenes videos, allowing clients a close-up look at the jewels as well as the craftsmanship involved in their making. Bulgari launched an invitation-only app for its Barocko collection, allowing VIPs to try pieces on via augmented reality and register interest with a few swipes of their phone. Selling high jewellery has always been about personalised service and relationships – and as we are all forced to connect in a different way, the industry will adapt. After all, the very existence of these exceptional pieces is a welcome reminder that joy and beauty do still exist in the world. 46
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BULGARI
The Italian jeweller pays homage to the grandeur of the Eternal City in Barocko, a collection ripe with the flamboyant flourishes of baroque art and architecture. Taking inspiration from the mosaic ceilings of Italian Basilicas, the voluptuous work of 18th-century sculptors and the intricate patterns of antique lace, the collection is a decadent feast of coloured gemstones and sumptuous goldwork. Lavishly decorated bib necklaces, magnificent coloured-stone cocktail rings and exquisitely ornate earrings are, like baroque art itself, designed to inspire awe: an unashamedly exuberant, joyful escape from the everyday. THIS PAGE: BULGARI Platinum, ruby and diamond earrings, platinum, ruby and diamond ring. and platinum and diamond necklace; all POA OPPOSITE PAGE: Left: BOUCHERON Caresse de Plume brooch in 18kt white gold with mother-of-pearl and diamonds; POA Right: BULGARI Platinum, ruby and diamond earrings; POA
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PIAGET
Feather marquetry that recreates the plumage of an exotic bird is among the highlights of Piaget’s Wings of Light collection, inspired by the colours of a tropical rainforest. Exceptional, rare gemstones were chosen for their specific shades - from the deep blue Sri Lankan sapphires that reflect the waters of sacred Mexican cenotes, to the rich Colombian emeralds that capture verdant forest canopies. It took years to source precisely matched stones, and, in the case of two sizeable pink Tanzanian spinels, the results are a gemstone collector’s dream.
POMELLATO
What could be more apt for 2020 than a rainbow of coloured gemstones: 1,798 in total, wrapping the neck in 27 different shades? It’s fitting that this Gourmette Caméléon choker was the first piece that Pomellato’s creative director Vincenzo Castaldo laid eyes on when he returned to the workshop post-lockdown. It’s the star of the 53-year-old house’s debut high jewellery collection, which celebrates Pomellato’s design signatures, from chains and coloured gemstones to its sweetie-like ‘Nudo’ cut. Named La Gioia, meaning joy, the collection’s blend of wearability and preciousness is joy-making indeed. Gourmette Caméléon choker in 18kt rose gold with coloured gemstones; POA
Natural Harmony necklace in 18kt white gold with Colombian emeralds and diamonds; POA
CHAUMET
Jewellers’ and architects’ mission is to make complex constructions aesthetically beautiful; one that’s accomplished in Perspectives de Chaumet, the 240-year-old Parisian house’s new architecture-inspired collection. Six chapters and 81 pieces run the gamut from textured, sculptural gold - an ode to celebrated designer Pierre Sterlé - to intricate webs of fil couteau (knife edge) gold within which gemstones seem to float. Techniques from the past are used in boldly contemporary pieces, and gold is folded, articulated, fragmented and manipulated with seemingly effortless ease: testament to the skills of Chaumet’s craftspeople. Skyline ring in 18kt gold with a 7.34ct Asscher-cut diamond; POA
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BOUCHERON
While other jewellers raid gemstone fairs, Boucheron’s Claire Choisne looks beyond mineralogy to other industries entirely. Like aeronautics, where she discovered aerogel, a practically weightless synthetic material that’s used by NASA to collect space dust. In Contemplation, Boucheron’s new high jewellery collection, she captures it beneath rock crystal like a pure drop of intangibly blue sky. The collection aims to preserve fleeting moments of nature: from a murmuration of starlings to the moment before a dandelion’s seeds fly away. By blending cutting-edge technology with traditional goldsmithing techniques, Choisne reinvents the rules of high jewellery for a new generation of magpies. Avant Le Frisson necklace in 18kt white gold and titanium with diamonds; POA
CHOPARD
The 2020 Cannes Film Festival may have been called off, but that didn’t stop Chopard from creating 73 exceptional jewels, one for every year of the festival’s existence. This year’s Red Carpet Collection includes classically beautiful jewels that would look at home on any A-list starlet - a necklace set with 90 carats of heart-shaped diamonds is particularly arresting - alongside more contemporary creations inspired by flora and fauna. A series of anthropomorphic animal cocktail rings and a gemstonestudded owl timepiece bring a playful element to the red carpet-worthy collection. Owl jewellery watch in 18kt white gold with sapphires and diamonds; POA
CARTIER
Cartier’s [Sur]Naturel collection is a fresh interpretation of an age-old theme. Far from naturalistic 19th-century jewels, these are abstract, almost psychedelic representations of animals and plant life. Polished, pebblelike black opals hint at a panther’s spots, a motif Cartier first introduced in 1914. The riotous Panthère Tropicale watch combines diamond and onyx-spotted ‘fur’ with sculpted coral and colourclashing aquamarines and tourmalines. Articulated diamond-set gold is used to call to mind an undulating ocean and a sinuous snake: the latter complete with onyx dorsal ridge and a 53.94ct emerald head. Panthère Tropicale watch in 18kt yellow gold with coral, diamonds, onyx, aquamarine and tourmaline; POA
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10/09/2020 02/10/2020 18:24 18:44
BEAUTY Blue Mood
Bella Hadid for Diorshow by Dior
This season’s make-up look is all about dramatic eyes, with Dior Makeup’s Creative Director Peter Philips drawing inspiration from the house’s signature runway looks to reincarnate two icons for AW20 – the Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara and 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow Palette. Designed to intensify the lash’s natural curl, the reformulated mascara features a super precise brush for 24-hour volume; while the new Denim edition of the eyeshadow palette offers an array of blue hues for a dazzling look. dior.com
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Beauty Notes
Autumn’s modern lipstick hue, a hydrating face elixir & the return of the London pharmacy
Pink Power
GHD has partnered with Breast Cancer Now to launch Take Control Now – a campaign designed to raise awareness around the importance of checking your breasts. As part of the campaign, GHD will be donating £10 from every sale of the new powder pink collection – the Helios hairdryer, the Platinum+ straightener and the Gold straightener – to the charity. Pink Collection x Take Control Now, from £149
ghdhair.com
C o m p i l e d b y CHARLOTTE ADSETT
All at Shimmers
e new Dr Sebagh Shimmering Body Oil not only adds a sun-kissed sheen and sparkle to the skin, day or night, the non-greasy formula also works to restore the skin’s natural barrier, deeply nourish and hydrate, as well as minimise the appearance of lines and wrinkles, making it ideal for top-to-toe radiance, all year round. £55; drsebagh.com
Top Trend
GOTHIC REVIVAL For an easy beauty update this Autumn, swap your usual statement red lipstick for a dark lip painted in gothicinspired hues of deep berry, wine and plum, as seen backstage at Rodarte AW20.
Skin Deep
With a renewed focus on self-care at home and Autumn a time to nourish skin, the new Augustinus Bader Face Oil is the ideal seasonal skincare solution. The fast-absorbing formula, which contains a rich blend of botanicals, not only strengthens the skin barrier but also soothes and deeply hydrates, leaving the complexion regenerated. £180; augustinusbader.com
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
ON TH E
Brand To Know
L ASH
Bend The Rules It’s been two years in the making, but October finally sees Scandi fragrance brand Byredo launch its inaugural beauty line – a collaboration by founder Ben Gorham and visionary make-up artist Isamaya Ffrench. The duo have ripped up the rulebook, creating a collection which aims to blur gender boundaries and champion non-conformism. The first drop introduces 15 lipsticks, 16 multi-purpose colour sticks, a mascara, a liquid eyeliner, a lip balm and three eyeshadows – even the slick, sculptural packaging embraces unconventionality.
From top left: Colour Stick in Chin of Gold, £26; Mascara in Space Black, £35; Lipstick in Tokyo Rose, £35; Compact Eyeshadow Palette (launching in November), £56. Available at byredo.com and Selfridges
Let your eyes do the talking with this season’s volume-building and lengthening mascaras
Clockwise from top left: PAT MCGRATH LABS Dark Star Mascara, £24 DIEGO DALLA PALMA MyToyBoy Mascara Extra Volume, £24.30 CHARLOTTE TILBURY Pillow Talk Push Up Lashes! Mascara, £23 MARC JACOBS BEAUTY At Lash’d Lengthening and Curling Mascara, £25 NARS Climax Extreme Mascara, £22
New Opening
IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD As more of us decide to shop locally in the face of the pandemic, holistic wellness brand Anatome has decided to focus its presence on neighbourhoods. As such, its first new village store has now opened in Marylebone, offering a complete wellness destination under one roof. Combining beauty, fragrance and nutrition, the pharmacy-style store also includes ‘the studio’, a dedicated room where brand experts help visitors learn about the oils and practices that best support sleep. Perfect for these challenging times… 16 Chiltern Street, Marylebone, W1; anatome.co
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My Beauty Glossary
T he
POLLUTION
SOLUTION With life beginning to return to the ‘new normal’, we are once again exposing ourselves to the everyday pollutants of urban living. Here, contributing beauty director Alessandra Steinherr shares her favourite skin and hair products to defend and detoxify P o r t r a i t b y SARAH B ROWN
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ne of the only positives of coronavirus is that, as the nationwide shutdown took hold, air pollution across London dropped considerably. Now, as life begins its gradual return to the #newnormal, levels of toxic pollutants in the capital are set to be worse than ever. With TfL predicting a doubling of vehicles in the centre of town compared to pre-Covid levels, as we shun public transport, air pollution caused by exhaust fumes is on the rise. Indeed, recent analysis by Clean Air has revealed that it has already nearly returned to pre-lockdown levels. When it comes to air quality, central London certainly struggles to breathe. According to mayor Sadiq Khan, on some days Oxford Street has been the most polluted street in the world, its nitrogen dioxide levels catastrophically high due to diesel traffic. With this air pollution comes an abundance of free radicals - unstable and highly reactive molecules - which are not only detrimental to our health, with an increased risk of cardiovascular disease and cancer, but they can also wreak havoc on our complexion. In their bid to ‘steal’ active electrons from our healthy cells, these free radicals disrupt the skin barrier by damaging the collagen and lipids within it, which help retain moisture, thereby accelerating wrinkles, sagging, dryness, dullness, enlarged pores and unwanted pigmentation. The damage isn't just cosmetic either; there is also a clear correlation between spikes in air pollution and the likelihood of suffering from skin problems, as pollutants have a marked effect on sebum levels and inflammation, resulting in irritation, rashes and breakouts.
There are of course other environmental aggressors to be mindful of too, like damaging UVA and UVB rays and also the blue light emitted by smartphones, tablets, computers and televisions. With the average person now spending upwards of 12 hours in front of a screen (we’re all guilty of being unable to switch off), our skin is paying the price, as excessive blue light penetrates the dermis, inducing oxidative stress, which contributes to skin ageing. The best line of defence for skin? Incorporate protective products into our beauty routine that will not only fortify the natural skin barrier, but will also lessen the effects of exposure to free radicals. Here are my tried and tested pollution-tacklers…
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
ABOUT FACE
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n terms of protecting the skin’s surface, antioxidants are crucial as they bind to harmful free radicals and prevent them from damaging healthy cells. So look for skincare products containing the antioxidant power players - ascorbic acid, Vitamin C, ferulic acid and niacinamide - which neutralise pollution, as well as defend against environmental stressors. In the morning, it’s all about building up protective layers between your skin and pollutants. To start, I would definitely recommend using an antioxidant serum. Estee Lauder’s Perfectionist Pro Rapid Brightening Treatment, £64 for 30ml would work well. This ultra-lightweight, ultra-hydrating formula contains Vitamin C and naturally-derived ferments, the latter specifically formulated to help improve the look of dark spots and uneven skin tone, leaving skin brighter and clearer. Another serum I love is Dr. Barbara Sturm Anti-Pollution Drops, £110 which contains natural botanical extracts, derived from marine microorganisms and cocoa seed, to shield the face, eye and neck area from
external aggressors and strengthen the skin’s protective barrier. You simply add a few drops into your face cream and gently pat into the skin. If you’re looking for a moisturiser, Chantecaille Anti-Pollution Mattifying Cream, £88 is a lightweight formula with powerful antioxidant properties that reduce the appearance of enlarged pores, blackheads and breakouts caused by pollution, without leaving skin feeling too dry, as is often the case with mattifying creams. Also, now that we’re wearing face coverings on a regular basis, moisturisers can be quite thick and stick to our masks, whereas this one doesn’t. Using a primer is a good idea because it, too, provides an extra shield against pollution. Guerlain L’Essentiel Pore Minimizer Shine-Control Primer, £38 works hard: it not only smooths pores and refines skin texture, as well as controlling excess shine, it reinforces the skin barrier. Sunscreen, as ever, has an important role to play. While it inherently protects against UV rays, it also goes the extra mile to fight pollution because, again, it offers that extra layer. Use a tinted SPF. I like Sarah
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Chapman Skinesis Skin Insurance SPF 30, £22 , because it also helps reverse the signs of sun damage and the tint will act as a natural barrier, too. Indeed, interestingly enough, wearing makeup is a positive in this instance because, by and large, the pigments in makeup help to shield the skin. Estee Lauder launched a product earlier this year called Futurist Hydra Rescue Moisturizing Makeup SPF45, £36 . It comes in 20 shades and is buildable, plus it contains chia-seed extract, an anti-pollution active. Finish off with a makeup setting spray; these can offer a handful of benefits as they’re often infused with minerals which shield against environmental damage, like zinc, magnesium and copper, all of which protect against free radicals. Try Urban Decay All Nighter Pollution Protection Environmental Defense Makeup Setting Spray, £26 . If you like to finish off with a face mist, which you can apply over makeup or under if you prefer, Oskia CityLife Facial Mist, £44 contains niacinamide, a barrier booster to help protect against free-radical damage, Vitamin C to brighten and is also hydrating. 55
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FOOD & DRINK
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it - hard-wearing makeup, waterproof mascara and excess pollution. Plus, the oil’s active ingredients of blue microalgae and marine salicornia strengthen the skin’s natural defence system. A gentle exfoliation can help mop up and flush out harmful pollutants - Chanel Sublimage Ultimate LightRenewing Exfoliating Lotion, £123 is beautiful. Enriched with AHAs which target the surface layer of skin, it's great for removing dull, dead skin cells. For an added boost after cleansing and exfoliation, to counteract the negative effects of pollution, I highly recommend the Susanne Kaufmann Pollution Skin Defence System, £218 , a system of three vials containing concentrations of antioxidant Vitamin C; Ectoin, which protects the skin; and Q10 to prevent oxidative stress. When used together as part of a 3- or 15-day regimen, they form a multi-layered protection that shields the skin from free radicals and environmental damage. You could also consider using a mask in the evening after you’ve removed your makeup. I love the Dr Sebagh Skin Perfecting Mask, £42 as it’s really deep cleansing but gentle; use it two or three times a week - you
uring the day you protect the skin, at night you repair it. Cleansing in the evening is really important. When your skin is in direct daily contact with pollutants, especially in a city, you need to wash off the day really well. I would recommend double cleansing in the evening, using one product to remove makeup and sunscreen, and another to mop up and flush out all those harmful pollutants. For that thorough first cleanse, use a product that will really latch onto the dirt like the iS Clinical Warming Honey Cleanser, £34, which contains raw honey and royal jelly. It’s got a balmy, creamy consistency and is easy to massage in; remove it with a cloth so it really takes everything off. As a second cleanse, the Elemis Superfood Cica Calm Cleansing Foam, £25 is a soothing foaming cleanser, that will remove any stubborn impurities. If you prefer to expunge pollutants using a cleansing oil, Chanel L’Huile Anti-Pollution Cleansing Oil, £32 is noncomedogenic, which means it won’t cause breakouts. You massage it onto dry skin, emulsify with water and, as you rinse, the oil takes everything with
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he skin on our body is no different from the skin on the face. It’s thicker in certain parts, yes, but it shouldn’t be overlooked in any skincare regimen. Especially considering that it too is subject to the damaging effects of pollution - bare legs in the city are particularly prone to the low-lying fumes from cars, for example, resulting in dryness, scaliness and irritation. All this said, brands aren’t really there yet when it comes to anti-pollution products for the body though exfoliation is key in removing any contamination from your pores. There are many exfoliants for the body that I love - the Omorovicza Gold Sugar Scrub, £59 in particular is heavenly, as it conditions the skin as it exfoliates.
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4 leave it on for up to ten minutes and then rinse off - to eliminate impurities, minimise blackheads and blemishes and restore radiance. For an overnight mask, QMS Medicosmetics Epigen Overnight Rescue Mask, £69 repairs and rebalances dull, tired skin as well as boost the cells’ regeneration process and resistance to stress.
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The Sisley Energizing Foaming Exfoliant, £89 is also amazing - a combination of essential oils, botanical extracts and microbeads, it’ll scrub away any impurities and dead cells and leaves skin soft and supple. Rinse off and then apply your body moisturiser. Again, I would use a body cream that is infused with antioxidants and Vitamin C; a good one is Natura Bissé C + C Vitamin Body Cream, £84 , packed with orange extracts for anti-radical action and brightening the skin. Augustinus Bader The Body Oil, £75 is a face-grade product for the body, full of antioxidants to protect skin against free-radicals and environmental aggressors while the plant-based ingredients deeply nourish and hydrate.
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
CROWNING GLORY
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ollution can affect your scalp and hair in the same way it does your skin. Air pollutants stick to each strand, or rather the residue of shampoos and conditioners; this will be exacerbated if you use styling products - serums, sprays or lotions - as they are often sticky and also act like a magnet for pollution particles. This in turn can not only make hair look dirty and feel greasy, and clog up the pores on our scalp, but can also cause irritation and damage, from dryness and breakage to an itchiness. Clarifying shampoos will help lift this stubborn build-up clean away. Most regular shampoos are formulated to cleanse gently; they will have a lower proportion of surfactant, which is the cleansing agent, compared to moisturising ingredients, hence why your hair feels shiny and smooth. In comparison, clarifying shampoos are all about cleaning; they contain more surfactants and fewer conditioning agents. As an aside, they can also help rid the hair of mineral deposits from hard water, which we tend to have in cities. While we’re on the subject of H2O, if you’re looking to remove the
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chlorine, heavy metals, chemicals and other impurities often found in urban water systems, Hello Klean, £56 is a sustainable, vegan filter that’ll fit easily into your shower, instantly filtering out all the nasties and transforming chemicals and metal ions into harmless substances. If you commute a lot and you think your hair is lank and greasy, try to use a clarifying shampoo once a week - you can still use your favourite shampoo and conditioner, but I would just alternate. If you live in an urban environment, you will have pollution deposits on your hair and scalp on a daily basis and this can often exacerbate oiliness but how often you wash your hair is totally up to you. Sachajuan Anti Pollution Shampoo (£22) and Conditioner, £24 are good because the shampoo does the deep-clean and the conditioner is very lightweight. Also, Philip B. Peppermint & Avocado Volumising & Clarifying Shampoo, £31 deeply cleanses hair, and it contains peppermint oil which stimulates the scalp. If you’re someone who has a sensitive scalp and pollution is causing you irritation, try Gallinée Soothing Cleansing Cream for Sensitive Scalps, £23 , formulated to support the scalp’s
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microbiome. There is also a hair and scalp Care Mask, £28, which soothes and nourishes hair fibres. You could, if you really want to detoxify and purify the scalp, use a pre-cleanser. Kerastase Chronologiste Pre-Cleanse Régénérant, £34 is a rich gel that you apply to your wet scalp and roots before shampooing - as you rinse it off, it lifts away pollutants and also helps to remove flaky skin, unclog pores and tone the scalp. Finally, there are a number of protection sprays to spritz in your hair before leaving the house to help protect against environmental aggressors. Grow Gorgeous Defence Anti-Pollution Leave-in Spray, £25 is an oil-free formula containing polysaccharide matrix, which prevents pollution particles from attaching to hair, plus it contains UV filters. According to recent research, air pollutants such as dust and gases not only lead to dryness and breakage but also hair loss in some cases. Bumble and Bumble Full Potential Hair Preserving Booster Spray, £42 restores, strengthens and adds volume, and is particularly helpful for those whose hair is fine, prone to breakage or thinning. 57
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Renew & Restore Beauty & Wellness Opening
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The Well, a recently-opened haven dedicated to holistic and aesthetic pampering, is fast becoming the capital’s go-to beauty and wellness hotspot
ucked away in a mews near Westbourne Grove in Notting Hill, behind a discreet front door, lies The Well, one of London’s leading beauty and wellness clinics offering the very latest treatments by some of the capital’s most sought-after doctors, therapists and aestheticians. The pioneering clinic is the brainchild of Katie Parobek who - keen to provide a 360-degree approach to holistic health and beauty - has set up a onestop shop catering to clients’ every physical, spiritual and emotional need on a personal and individual basis. Here, transformative skin and body treatments, using innovative technology and trusted skincare lines, range from Intraceuticals oxygen facials and hydrafacials to those developed by New York facialist extraordinaire Ling Chan; as well as LED therapy and every manner of massage, including aromatherapy and lymphatic drainage, hot stone and Ballbacci Cupping. Not to mention the extensive IV therapy menu, designed to enhance everything from the immune system to athletic performance. A wealth of London’s leading therapists, including osteopathic physician and physiotherapist Fernando Bidino, homeopath Louise Lowry, Five Elements acupuncturist Samira Kazemzadeh, and renowned aromatherapist, reiki and crystal healer Michelle Roques-
O'Neil - who has over 30 years’ experience in spiritual health and wellness - are also on hand to cater to clients’ needs. The menu of aesthetic procedures is comprehensive, offering consultationbased treatments to suit every requirement and budget. From injectables including filler and Botox to lasers, fat freezing, peels and FemiLift, no rejuvenation procedure has been overlooked – again, all administered by some of the industry’s biggest names such as aesthetic doctor and specialist orthodontist Dr Victoria Jaminson, cosmetic and dermatologic surgeon Dr Luca Russo and Dr Katy Kasraie, private general practitioner and aesthetic doctor. With its wide range of beauty services, including lash, brow and nails, available, the clinic provides the whole beauty, spa and aesthetics package under one roof; it’s a place where you can spend an afternoon, or even a whole day, letting the expert team work their magic so you emerge feeling renewed, revitalised and, importantly, rested. “We work to customise and tailor packages to suit an individual’s requirements, employing some of the country’s leading experts in their field - all of whom have been hand-picked to help each and every client create the best version of themselves,” says Katie. The Well is open seven days a week and until 8pm on Wednesdays and Thursdays.
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T H E G L O S S A RY PA R T N E R S H I P
HIT REFRESH WITH THESE FAST FIXES
Whether you’re feeling tired and run down or just in need of a treat, embrace the Autumn feeling reinvigorated with one of these uplifting treatments
The Ling Chan Luxury Facial
Osteopathy with Fernando Bidino
LED Face & Body Therapy
Ling Chan’s unique mix of traditional Asian holistic wisdom with state-ofthe-art ingredients and technology has seen the New York facialist build up a fiercely loyal clientele (Renee Zellweger, Madonna and Alexander Wang, to name a few). And now her series of signature facial treatments is available in London, exclusively at The Well. The menu is extensive, with everything from a ‘C The Difference Antioxidant Facial’ addressing sun damage to the ‘NASA Light Years Younger Facial’ which tackles hyperpigmentation. But for the ultimate skin reviver, book the Luxury Facial (£140 for 80 minutes). After a close examination of your complexion needs, the therapist will tweak the treatment plan around you; thorough cleansing, exfoliation, steam, extractions and ultrasound - to allow the generous application of Ling Skin Care products to take full effect - come as standard, plus a deeply soothing shoulder and scalp massage. You’ll leave looking and feeling lifted.
Fernando Bidino is a fully qualified osteopathic practitioner and physiotherapist, with extensive postgraduate training in chiropractic techniques, and one of the very few specialists in London to deliver a combination of the three, making him the go-to for all those niggling aches and pains, whether it’s a stiff neck, sports injury or your WFH posture needs realigning. His approach is not only unique, it’s also highly efficient. During your consultation with Fernando (£180 for 60 minutes, follow-ups from £90), expect a systematic and thorough diagnosis, before he clearly guides you through a tailored treatment plan, one that will encompass osteopathy, physiotherapy and chiropractic throughout your different stages of care. The ensuing treatment is hands-on, involving skilled manipulation of the spine and joints, and deep tissue massage. Even if you don’t have a specific issue to address, Fernando’s treatments are also a system of effective preventative medicine, ensuring that our bodies continue to function as smoothly as possible. You’re in good hands here.
LED light therapy, a pain-free, noninvasive treatment, has myriad benefits. As the non-thermal light energy from different coloured lights penetrates the skin at varying depths and wavelengths, it not only accelerates rejuvenation and repair of the dermis at cellular level, it’s also a game changer for stress and seasonal disorder. Using the Neo Elegance Lumineo device, The Well offers LED therapy for both the face and the body, with weekly sessions recommended. Choose from a specific hue - red is the most popular, boosting collagen, repairing elastin and reducing inflammation; while yellow, for example, targets lymphatic drainage and purple improves skin clarity. You can either add it onto another treatment (£20 for 15 minutes) or have the therapy by itself (£50 for 15 minutes) - both offer a complimentary hand massage - but whichever you choose, you’ll emerge with rejuvenated skin and a boosted mood, which has to be win win.
8-9 Lambton Place, Westbourne Grove, W11, thewell-clinic.com
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My Beauty Glossary
SHARMADEAN REID Beauty entrepreneur and tech innovator Sharmadean Reid MBE reveals her favourite beauty products and essential treatments in the capital
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W o r d s b y GEORGIE LANE-GODFREY
harmadean Reid didn’t set out to be a beauty innovator. When she founded WAH nails, opening her first salon in Dalston back in 2009, it was simply as a side project while she worked as a fashion stylist. But within two months of trading, she’d been invited to do a pop-up at Selfridges. WAH’s millennial, feminist attitude has captured the industry’s attention and her designs helped to start the nail art phenomenon of the late noughties. Within five years, Sharmadean had written two books, launched a product line with Boots and run pop-up salons for countless other brands. Then, in 2015, she was awarded an MBE by the Queen for services to the beauty industry. While WAH cemented Sharmadean’s reputation as a beauty mogul, it was the app she launched in 2017 which aimed to revolutionise the industry. An innovative networking platform, Beautystack was hailed as the “Instagram for salon bookings” thanks to its clever concept which allows users to “see it, like it, book it” based on social media images and peer suggestions. Those recommendations were the inspiration for Sharmadean’s recently launched Beautystack podcast, which aims to unveil the beauty secrets of some of the UK's most inspiring women, from activist Scarlett Curtis to Women Who founder Otegha Ugwagba and Creative Director Alex Eagle. Here, Sharmadean gives her personal beauty glossary – her favourite go-to products and treatments she turns to in the capital.
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
My lockdown beauty saviour
My skincare heroes
I've been using Soapsmith’s Brick Lane Hand Wash, £16 & Hand Lotion, £18 to combat dry hands. I love anything London based – this brand is locally made in Walthamstow, black-owned and all of the scents are incredible.
I’ve been using Bioderma Sensibio H2O Make-up Removing Micelle Solution, £10.80, for years. I first bought it in a French pharmacy when I worked in fashion and can’t find anything else which removes the dirt so well. Biologique Recherche P50 Lotion has been a game changer - the combination of AHA, BHA and PHA acids completely resurfaces your skin and keeps it clear. Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Serum, £140, is packed with antioxidants and really brightens my complexion. I finish with ClinicBe’s Sun Protected SPF50, £44; it provides a really good base and isn’t greasy, so keeps my makeup set all day.
My essential hair products
I use Afrocenchix’s Sulphate-Free Shampoo, £14.95, and Silicone-Free Conditioner, £14.95; it’s a brilliant organic hair care range that suits my hair type perfectly and I adore Charlotte Mensah’s Manketti Hair Oil, £48 – it’s so much better than Moroccan oil.
My signature scent
My preferred nail polish
I’m currently wearing a classic red GelBottle polish in Candy, £14.50;; it’s the brand that beauty professionals use when they do gel manicures and it lasts up to four weeks.
My nighttime routine
Includes a soak in the bath with Epsom salts without fail - I use Dr Teals Soothe & Soak Epsom salts with Lavender, £7.99, and I apply a face mask like Peter Thomas Roth’s Rose Stem Cell Bio-Repair Gel Mask, £45. £45 I believe that your nighttime skin product is your workhorse, so you should make it prescriptive. If I think my skin looks dull, I’ll use Tata Harper’s Resurfacing Serum, £77; or if it needs a bit of nourishment, I apply a face oil like Ohana’s CBD Night £68. Repair Face Oil, £68
Le Labo Poivre 23, £220 for 50ml; it’s one of the scents in their City Exclusives series which they made just for London. It smells like black pepper and is really masculine. I love it because it reminds me of a great holiday in Italy.
My favourite body products
A dry bristle body brush, Shea butter and a body oil are my everyday essentials. I’m prone to cellulite on my thighs, so I brush my skin every day and try to keep active to help it. I use Eléngé Shea Butter, £30, on my legs; Liha Beauty Idan Oil, £39, on my arms and stomach; and Herbivore Jasmine Body Oil, £39, on my neck and chest because it’s a lighter oil with a gorgeous scent.
My make-up bag must-haves
I mix Fenty Beauty Pro Filt’r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation in 360, £27, with some moisturiser as I like a natural look. I don’t wear mascara, but I use MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Powder, £27, as an eyeshadow and line my eyes with Chanel’s Waterproof Eyeliner in Noir Intense, £22. Then, I use Glossier’s Halo Highlighter, £22, down my nose and I’ll finish with Charlotte Tilbury’s Pillow Talk Lipstick, £25, which I also use on my cheeks. It takes me about five minutes.
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
Sharmadean’s go-to beauty and wellness experts in London The hair stylist
Alisha Dobson at Bleach London in Brixton has been doing my hair for 11 years now. Alisha does everything for me – washing, blow-drying, trimming and even extensions, if I have them. Bleach London Brixton, 195 Ferndale Road, Brixton, SW9; bleachlondon.co.uk
The facialists
I’ve got three favourite places where I like to go for facials depending on what my skin needs. Jasmina Vico in Marylebone combines the holistic with high-tech machines for her bespoke facials tailored just for you - I always leave with such a glow. I also love Skin & Sanctuary in Hackney because the environment there is amazing – it’s like being in a chic apartment – and they do the best facial massages. Finally, I go to Skinwork in Soho whenever I need a detox facial. They focus on extraction, then use a leather, Hannibal Lecter style galvanic mask to run an electric current to help vitamin C to deeply penetrate your face. You don’t feel anything, and it makes your skin look so much brighter. Jasmina Vico, 57 Wimpole Street, Marylebone, W1; jasminavico.com Skin & Sanctuary, 170a Victoria Park Road, Hackney, E9; skinandsanctuary.com Skinwork, 6 - 10 Lexington St, Soho, W1; skinworkofficial.com
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The nail artist
I get my nails done by Kadimah Aaliyah at Nuka Nails in Notting Hill. She used to be a WAH Nails girl who couldn’t do nail art when I met her, but trained herself up to be an incredible nail artist. She’s really good at graphic nails but also her cuticle care is amazing, so my nails always look well-groomed. Nuka Nails at Gravity Salon, 144 Ladbroke Grove, Notting Hill, W10; nukanails.com
The eyebrow queen
I go to Rachel Pitman at Face Clinic in Soho who microblades my eyebrows. She’s the best because she’s basically an artist – she studied fine art. I get my eyebrows done every two years, and each time I go, the result just gets better and better. Face Clinic, 7 Silver Place, Soho, W1; rachel-pitman.com
The lash expert
Kitty Limbic at LashBar in Clapham does individual lash extensions which last for ages, plus they’re a great shape so they look really natural, which is important to me. Limbic LashBar, Clapham Town, Clapham, SW4; limbicbeauty.btystk.com
The acupuncturist
I have acupuncture with Sarah Bradden to realign my energies. Because Sarah has been through trauma herself, I find that she really understands what you need. I always leave feeling truly cared for. Beauty Lounge at Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, Belgravia, SW1; sarahbradden.com
The Vedic astrologer
I have regular astrology sessions with Vishal Krishna. It’s so useful to have someone talk through things and help realise any blind spots. I don’t look at astrology as psychic prediction, but as a conversation which reminds me of things I’m not thinking about, for example, how I manage my money over the next three years. Vishal Krishna at 58 South Molton Street, Mayfair, W1; astrobrijwasi.com Listen to the Beautystack podcast on Spotify
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Stronger, together.
Discover the power of Dr Sebagh’s potent, award-winning skin care ritual. For an instant, radiance-restoring treatment, apply Deep Exfoliating Mask, which boosts cell turnover. Follow with a rehydrating, plumping and firming mix of Serum Repair and Rose de Vie Serum. For a brightening boost, mix a dose of the patented and highly concentrated Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream with your mask or serums. Available in-store and at drsebagh.com
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T H E G L O S S A RY PA R T N E R S H I P
The Scalp Care Saviours
Want thicker locks that shine with vitality and health? Get to the root of the problem with award-winning scalp care that delivers results
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e invest so much time in our skin; our daily beauty routines are filled with products that are designed to ensure it looks its best no matter what age we may be. But how much better would our hair look and feel if we applied this same diligence to our scalp? The beauty world is abuzz about scalp care right now. And quite rightly, as studies have shown that the scalp ages just as fast as the skin on our face owing to a cocktail of aggressors such as pollution, sun exposure and the overuse of follicleclogging products. But thanks to Monpure, the world’s first sustainable luxury brand dedicated to scalp care, our beauty regimes no longer have to halt at our hairline. Drawing on the collective knowledge of beauty experts, dermatologists and scientists, this new British scalp care brand blends pioneering vegan formulas with a high concentration of skincare actives, such as retinol and peptides, to transform dull, lifeless, thinning hair and banish scalprelated problems. Consciously clean, ethicallysourced and housed in stylish recycled packaging – an ethos that has seen Monpure garner a clutch of green beauty awards – The Glossary tried and tested six of the brand’s core products.
Monpure’s Clarifying Scalp Scrub is a gentle formula that not only buffs away dead skin cells and debris with its biodegradable jojoba beads, but also delivers a deep hit of nourishment thanks to its argan oil and shea butter properties, and left our scalp and follicles feeling rejuvenated and smelling of sweet orange and rosemary. It’s the ideal precursor to the Strengthening Silk Protein Shampoo, which effectively cleanses hair of product build-up and environmental aggressors, whilst giving plenty of juststepped-out-of-a-salon body and bounce. Follow up with the lightweight Strengthening Essence-Conditioner for an added moisture boost; packed with vegan silk peptides and pro vitamin B5, our hair felt deeply conditioned and looked enviably smooth. Those with a particularly stressed-out scalp should opt for the Hydrate and Soothe Scalp Serum to quench dry, irritated skin, and the Nourish and Stimulate Scalp Mask, which relieves itching and redness. And for anyone suffering from hair loss and thinning, we recommend Monpure’s best-selling Follicle Boost Hair Density Serum - a hero product that stimulates the scalp and improves cell turnover for noticeably thicker and shinier locks. So make this groundbreaking range a part of your beauty routine and enjoy your healthiest ever hair. monpure.com
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
A scents of
AU T U M N THIS SEASON’S NEW FRAGRANCES HIT ALL THE RIGHT NOTES C o m p i l e d b y CHARLOTTE ADSETT
Clive Christian CRAB APPLE BLOSSOM Eau de parfum, 50ml, £325
Honouring its associations with the Crown Perfumery Company, Clive Christian is unlocking the secrets of its scent archive with the launch of its new Crown Collection. Originally created in 1886, Crab Apple Blossom is the first fragrance to be reimagined for the modern era. A base of creamy sandalwood and aromatic driftwood gives way to an energising fusion of green rhubarb and neroli, before the delicate scent of this pretty blossom dances with the citrusy hit of exotic marine bergamot. Available exclusively at clivechristian.com & harrods.com
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Acqua Di Parma COLONIA FUTURA Eau de cologne, 100ml, £110
An ode to nature, Acqua di Parma has taken its iconic Colonia fragrance into the future with the introduction of Colonia Futura. Placing sustainability front and centre, the historic Italian Maison has used 99% natural ingredients and recyled packaging in the creation of this update to the Colonia family. By skilfully blending the citrus explosion of Calabrian bergamot, grapefruit, pink pepper and lemon with the herbaceous heart of clary sage and the grassy freshness of lavender, you are immediately whisked away to a sun-drenched Italian vista. acquadiparma.com
Byredo
TOBACCO MANDARIN Extrait de parfum, £50ml, £235
Dior
J'A DORE EAU DE PARFUM INFINISSIME
Eau de parfum, 100ml, £116
This latest addition to Byredo’s Night Veils collection completes a quartet of fragrances designed for the night. Taking inspiration from the Moroccan city of Tangiers, Tobacco Mandarin is a sumptuous mix of bright citrus and spices set against smoky tobacco and a balanced mix of leather, wood and incense accords. byredo.com
Described as a sensual sister to its sunny predecessor, J’adore Eau de Parfum Infinissime is based around the signature J’adore bouquet of centifolia rose, jasmine sambac, lily of the valley and ylang ylang. The inclusion of Grasse tuberose, pink peppercorn and blood orange makes this new fragrance both familiar and surprising. dior.com
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
Chanel
COCO MADEMOISELLE L'EAU PRIVÉE Eau de parfum, 100ml, £95
Almost twenty years since the creation of the original Coco Mademoiselle, L’Eau Priveé offers a subtle version of the classic, especially for nighttime. Chanel perfumer Olivier Polge has reimagined its Oriental ambery overtones, creating a softer scent of rose petals, jasmine absolute and white musk, light enough to be sprayed before bed. chanel.com
Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Diptyque
OTHONIEL ROSA
L'HOMME A LA ROSE
Eau de Toile e, 100ml, £120
Eau de parfum, 70ml, £180
A tribute to Parisian exhibition “La Rose du Louvre” by Jean-Michel Othoniel, Diptyque has collaborated with the artist on a limited-edition fragrance honouring the queen of flowers. A blend of distinctively peppery rose with the spicy and woody scent of vetiver, the bottle is also adorned with Othoniel’s artwork. diptyqueparis.com
Known for challenging the gender norms, master perfumer Francis Kurkdjian’s latest olfactory offering is an adaptation of his A la rose fragrance... but for men. The fashion-forward floral scent has a fresh, green slant thanks to its mix of woody amber base notes with grapefruit accord, cistus and, of course, essence of Damask rose. franciskurkdjian.com
Jo Malone London FIG & LOTUS FLOWER & CYPRESS & GRAPEVINE Cologne, 100ml, £100
Inspired by the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, Jo Malone London’s Lost In Wonder collection is based around these faraway, fantasy lands. Its two new colognes draw on the aromas of the gardens – Fig & Lotus Flower combines a light, opulent floral with the freshness of fruit; while Cypress & Grapevine is a fougere accord, the lavender, cypress and grapevine giving a woody fi nish. jomalone.co.uk
Vilhelm Parfumerie CHICAGO HIGH
Extrait de parfum, £50ml, £120
Perfumer Jan Vilhelm’s latest scent takes its cue from the effervescent glamour of the Roaring Twenties and, particularly, the high times at Jay Gatsby’s mansion during the Jazz Age. With top notes of Champagne and bergamot, a heart of honey and tobacco, and a base of leather, patchouli and amber, the mood here is sultry and sensual. libertylondon.com
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everyone triyoga... 6 beautiful locations 750+classes a week 25+ styles of yoga expert teachers pilates gyrotonic + barre treatments teacher training organic cafĂŠs lifestyle shops at triyoga london www.triyoga.co.uk CLIVE PATEKCHRISTIAN.indd PHILIPPE 10.indd 11
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Good Times Louie has arrived, sashaying into town with all the swagger of the three cities that have inspired it – New Orleans, New York, Paris. It’s just the pick-me-up London needs, a glamorous new address brought to life by Guillaume Glipa (late of Annabel’s) and the Paris Society group. Prepare for late nights, live jazz, po’ boys and Voodoo cocktails. 13-15 West Street, Covent Garden, WC2 louie-london.com
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Tasting Notes The latest openings and places to know across the capital and beyond
THE FAT DUCK AT 25 Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck celebrates a quarter century of cutting edge cuisine with the launch of ‘Anthology’, a series of four multisensory menus to mark the three Michelin star restaurant’s 25th anniversary year. The menus, to be released seasonally, see the return of era-defining dishes such as snail porridge and crab ice cream. High Street, Bray, SL6 thefatduck.co.uk
C o m p i l e d b y HILARY ARMSTRONG
ROBUCHON REMEMBERED
The Brasserie is back
Bon chic, bon genre newcomer Maison François in St James’s draws inspiration from the grand brasseries of Paris, Lyon and Strasbourg. The opening menu offers such French classics as jambon et céleri rémoulade, poulet rôti et frites, ratatouille with pistou and Paris-Brests from the dessert trolley. Frank’s wine bar downstairs is its branché counterpart. 34 Duke Street, St James, SW1 maisonfrancoislondon.com
The legacy of legendary French chef Joël Robuchon lives on at Le Comptoir Robuchon in Mayfair. The marble-clad, mirror-hung dining room is striking; its best seats clustered at the counter, where diners can watch the chefs put finishing touches to iconic dishes such as ‘Le Burger’, ‘Le Caviar’ and Robuchon’s famous pomme purée (rumoured to be as much butter as it is potato). The nearby Deli Robuchon is great for coffee or a croque monsieur. 6 Clarges Street, Mayfair, W1 robuchonlondon.co.uk
The Hot Spot
AFRO EATS The spotlight is on West African ingredients and traditions at Akoko in Fitzrovia where rising star William JM Chilila (of MasterChef: The Professionals) takes the stove. BBQ quail yassa, smoked goat with jollof rice and native lobster egusi showcase his contemporary style. Bespoke ceramics and artworks by Nigerian sculptor Niyi Olagunju set the scene. 21 Berners Street, Fitzrovia, W1 akoko.co.uk
GONE NATIVE
BUBBLING UP Star sommelier Sandia Chang of Bubbledogs and Kitchen Table in Fitzrovia is always fizzing with smart ideas. Her latest, an online shop, Bubbleshop By Sandia Chang, specialising in hard-to-find bottles of grower Champagne. Discover rare bottles and cult producers such as David Léclapart and Olivier Horiot while supporting a region hit hard by Covid. Delivery nationwide. bubbleshoplondon.com
For gourmet travel without the air miles – and the quarantine – look no further than tiny Osea Island off the Essex Coast, the new home of pioneering London wild food restaurant Native. Accessible by boat or an old Roman causeway, Native at Osea will open just three evenings a week from late October, serving £75 tasting menus inspired by the surrounding ecosystem. Meadowsweet sours, smoked Blackwater oysters and line-caught bass await, just one hour from London. Osea Island, Maldon, Essex, CM9 eatnative.co.uk
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FOOD & DRINK
New in town
Take your favourite neighbourhood bistro, transplant it to central London, and you might come up with something like Rondo at the Hoxton, Holborn. A collaboration between the hip hotel group and Quality Chop House’s Will Lander, Rondo gives food and wine equal billing, with exciting wines from oft-overlooked regions and idiosyncratic winemakers matched by punchy cooking courtesy of exSt John chef Chris Gillard. Order squid braised in red wine or rabbit pie for two. 199-206 High Holborn, WC1 thehoxton.com
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Restaurant R E V I E W S
NEW BEGINNINGS The capital’s dining scene continues to evolve. Hilary Armstrong samples the most exciting openings of the last year
MUSE
B Y TO M A I K E N S 38 Groom Place, Belgravia, SW1 musebytomaikens.co.uk
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ho really is Tom Aikens? We’ve read all about him – the temper, the marriages, the business failures, the two Michelin stars – but what’s behind the headlines? We find out for ourselves at Muse by Tom Aikens, the celebrity chef’s new micro-restaurant in Belgravia where the tasting menu (dubbed ‘the most pretentious ever’) doubles as ‘gastronomic autobiography’. I’m immediately struck by how unlike his strait-laced former Chelsea flagship Muse is. The man himself meets and greets, showing us up to the dining room. The vibe is more private home than Michelin star restaurant. The interior, beyond the open kitchen and marble counter, suggest Aikens has a heretofore unsuspected eccentric arty streak.
Who knew. I adore the space-age liquor cabinet, the pop-up menus, Memphis-esque mirrors and candy-coloured wall decals. At Muse, Aikens is exploring a new ‘experience-led’ approach. While the storytelling aspect (whimsical titles, longwinded anecdotes) feels contrived, the dishes themselves are near fl awless. We have the £95 six-course menu, a three-hour commitment even at lunch (there’s also a £50 lunch and £145 11-courser). It begins with a quartet of small but perfectly formed snacks: a cep tartlet, a chestnut crumble, ‘cheese and biscuits’, and venison tartare (modishly served with bone and moss). There are hints of a new Nordic influence too in a pleasing dish of raw milk ricotta, burnt leek powder, olive oil and honeyed black truffle, while ‘The Essence’, a study
in beetroot (candied, raw, pickled, smoked, puréed…) is more the ‘Tom Aikens’ I know – complex, classical, controlled. The menu reaches its zenith with a British modern British, steak and chips, reinvented with dried beef shin, puffed tendon and a whole onion stuffed with fermented grains. These are the edited highlights: I could just as well have mentioned the glorious bread with chicken butter, the lardo-wrapped langoustine, the Laphroaig jellies. It’s a seriously impressive new beginning. I look forward to what comes next. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £275 SIGNATURE DISHES: ‘Conquering the beech tree’, ‘Playing with Fire’ WHAT TO DRINK: Difference coffee; Rare Tea Company teas
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FOOD & DRINK
S I L O The White Building, Hackney Wick, E9 silolondon.com
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he future of finedining is unfolding in the least likely of places: a spray painted warehouse by the canal in edgy Hackney Wick. Silo at Crate Brewery is the second iteration of trailblazing chef Douglas McMaster’s zero waste project Silo, launched in Brighton in 2014 and relaunched last year in east London. For those who like destination dining with lashings of luxury, Silo will come as a shock. McMaster’s approach manifests itself in every way right down to the napkins dyed with turmeric and Nina + Co bespoke tables made of recycled packaging (they start at £8000, so aren’t exactly ‘handknitted’). Small things –
the sommelier reusing glasses where appropriate; the menu projected rather than printed – amount to a big difference. Every dish McMaster cooks is cleverly constructed to waste not a thing. Leftover sourdough goes into miso; whey from ricotta converts into dulce de leche; and vegetable scraps create a hoisinesque ‘treacle’ glaze. Pre-pandemic, Silo served a £50 tasting menu. On reopening, it’s been reimagined as ‘Silo X Wine Bar’, a less formal experience involving drinking food the ‘Silo’ way and some of the most idiosyncratic wines you’ll find in London. New to Silo this season are koji ‘quavers’ and dip; soy egg with lava salt; green pea naan with roasted tomato
dip; grilled cuttlefish kebab with umami dipping sauce; and Silo’s smoked pork bun. The coordinating wines by the glass might include a ‘pet nat’ rouge from Cahors, cult orange wine from Friuli’s Radikon and a superlight chilled red from Burgenland. McMaster does what all chefs seek to do: to make food that tastes delicious. He just goes about it a different way. Add banging tunes and a cool crowd and you have not
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just a restaurant or a wine bar but a fully fledged, futuristic dining experience. The full Silo experience will return towards the end of 2020. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £200 SIGNATURE DISHES: Siloaf, the house sourdough, with aged butter WHAT TO DRINK: Flights of Seedlip, Empirical or Mr Lyan cocktails
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B A R B O U N 61-67 Great Eastern Street, Shoreditch, EC2 barboun.com
O
ver the road from Gloria, round the corner from Nobu, eastern Mediterranean newcomer Barboun is the latest addition to Shoreditch’s rapidly evolving restaurant scene. It’s an inviting space, within Hilton Hotels’ Hart Shoreditch Hotel, the sheer scale of which suits it to the demands of physically distanced hospitality. Barboun, ‘red mullet’ in Turkish, is the third restaurant for Hus Vedat (Hovarda, Yosma), aided by protegée Fezile Ozalgan. Here, the two London-born chefs look to their Turkish-Cypriot roots and beyond to Lebanon, Syria and Israel. We try some captivating dishes. Manti, a traditional Turkish stuffed pasta, comes in stylish black (using activated charcoal) that pops both on the plate and on the ‘gram. Smoked eel I think of as a traditionally British ingredient; but at Barboun, it’s done with split pea purée and caper leaf, slicked with carob molasses. One of several ingredients new to me
is tarhana (made of dried grain and fermented yoghurt), softened into a suprisingly tangy purée to accompany crisp-skinned sea bass, saffron and chard. (Vedat sends me home with a brown paper pack of it to try for myself; I’m an instant convert). Desserts are good and very large: we split squidgy, syrupy kunefe and a sesame-crusted, molten-centred tahini fondant. It’s at weekend brunch that Barboun really comes into its own. The room was made for those moments when the sun pours in through the windows onto the marble-topped tables and silver-leaved olive trees.With an order of shakshuka, a watermelon salad and a strong Turkish coffee on the way, all feels right with the world for a moment. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £100 SIGNATURE DISHES: Manti; red mullet with muhammara and walnut; tahini fondant WHAT TO DRINK: Great Eastern espresso with date syrup and Turkish coffee
GYMKHANA 42 Albemarle Street, Mayfair, W1 gymkhanalondon.co.uk
E
very restaurant in London has had to rise from the ashes this year. Gymkhana in Mayfair has had to do it twice. The first time was in February when it reopened – for little more than a month – following a kitchen fire last summer. The second time was in July, when it reopened after lockdown. It’s wonderful to see it back, looking more handsome than ever post-refurbishment. The ground floor, modelled after India’s colonial-style sporting clubs, boasts polished wooden floors inset with marble, intimate booths, and hunting trophies from the Maharaja of Jodphur. I’m a little disappointed at first to be ushered down to the basement, until I see the new look room: swirly of carpet and hung with Indian modern art, it feels like a private members’ club. The celebrities favour it down here too; the semi-private ‘vaults’ with their own separate entrance are hidden from prying eyes.
As a succession of dishes, some new, some old, starts to arrive, it quickly becomes clear that the Gymkhana kitchen is at the top of its game. The magnificent array of papadums (seeded, herbed, crinkle-cut...) and traffic light trio of chutneys is almost a meal in itself. But we press on anyway: to a sauté of Amritsari shrimp and ‘queenie’ scallops, their sweet flesh contrasting with the crunchy, spicy exterior. Aloo chat, hidden beneath a blanket of crisp, golden chickpea flour sev, is simultaneously cooling and palate-stimulating. We return also to an old favourite, the methi keema, served with two perfect
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Restaurant R E V I E W S
THE CONNAUGHT GRILL
T little bread buns (pav), toasted, buttered and ready to be loaded with the savoury mince, chopped onion and a squeeze of fresh lime. There are a few extravagances including the showpiece muntjac biryani, crowned with pastry, and two fiery wild tiger prawns charred on the grill, but surprisingly it’s that most familiar of dishes, chicken butter masala, that stops me in my tracks. Don’t miss it. To finish, a custardy, trifle-like falooda, laced with saffron. Service is charismatic, energetic, committed. It feels as if everybody is rooting for Gymkhana’s renewed success. I know I am. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £150 SIGNATURE DISHES: Wild Muntjac biryani; kid goat methi keema WHAT TO DRINK: Quinine Sour, topped with a curry leaf
The Connaught, Carlos Place, Mayfair, W1 roccofortehotels.com
hose fortunate enough to have experienced the original Connaught Grill under the great Michel Bourdin describe a wood-panelled world of savoir-vivre, where Dover sole were filleted, clarets were decanted, and one’s best pearls were worn. In its day it was remarkable, but by the end of the century it had run it course. Twenty years later, however, the Connaught Grill is back with a new menu, new look and new approach. Wine-lovers will enjoy the ‘scenic route’ into the dining room via a hidden corridor through the wine cellar where a rare Bollinger Vielles Vignes catches our eye. The dining room itself is low-lit, intimate and lined with bespoke panels in American black walnut created for the Grill by the renowned Nakashima Woodworkers in Pennsylvania, whose designs would more usually be found in museums and private collections. This is a rare opportunity to sit in an iconic ‘Conoid’ chair and eat at one Nakashima’s signature ‘natural edge’ tables – savour every moment.
This is star chef JeanGeorges Vongerichten’s second restaurant at the Connaught (Jean-Georges at the Connaught having opened in 2017). Here, he presents his reinterpretation of traditional grill fare drawing on flavours from across the globe to enliven and excite the palate. He pairs Welsh rarebit with fresh crab (two of his favourite dishes at Scott’s in one, apparently) and bathes generous, pearlescent turbot on the bone in a goldenhued turmeric lemon sauce.
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His take on the signature ‘oeuf en surprise’, a soufflé of Westcombe cheddar, Gruyère and Parmesan, is glorious: crunchy on top, almost custardy inside. Among other attractions are the daily pie, Sunday roasts, a roster of steaks and a sculptural pastry showpiece of sea bass ‘en croûte’. Dessert might be a whole pineapple filled with sorbet or a flaming baked Alaska. Two wickedly retro puddings that beg the question: have tastes really changed so very very much? The Connaught Grill reopens this autumn. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £250 SIGNATURE DISHES: JeanGeorges’ Oeuf en Surprise; sea bass en croûte WHAT TO DRINK: Burgundy Grand Cru
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FOOD & DRINK
LUCA
My Glossary
Gizzi Erskine’s
GO-TO LONDON RESTAURANTS From sun-drenched Mediterranean menus to a Parsi supper club, the chef, food writer and broadcaster reveals where she likes to eat out in town
This Italian restaurant in Clerkenwell is expensive and therefore a real treat, but it really means business in how it presents itself. It's not surprising, as it is run by the trio who own the Clove Club - Isaac McHale, Johnny Smith and Daniel Willis - which is probably the best restaurant in the UK. The atmosphere at Luca is consistently great. So, too, the food. I always start with their Parmesan fries, which are essentially like cheesy churros, and the plate of Italian salumi with giardiniera vegetables. Their mortadella is incredible. And the pasta… well, that’s just out-ofcontrol good. 88 St John Street, Farringdon, EC1 luca.restaurant
ST JOHN BREAD & WINE When I started training as a chef, about 15 years ago, I worked at St John Bread & Wine and I still go as regularly as I can. Opened by Fergus Henderson in 2003, just opposite Smithfields market,
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BRAT
BRAWN
ST JOHN BREAD & WINE
it’s a restaurant serving traditional British food, which to this day continues to impact on the global food scene. I love ordering a good bottle of wine, breaking bread and digging in. The head chef Farokh Talati is of Parsi heritage and he also hosts a supper club at Maison Bertaux in Soho. Shaped by two ancient cultures, Persia and India, his Parsi menu is consistently amazing - patra ni machhi is a classic, fish coated in a chutney made from coconut, green mango, coriander, garlic and chilis, and baked in a banana leaf. 94-96 Commercial Street, Spitalfields, E1 stjohnrestaurant.com
BRAT
This is my favourite restaurant of all time. The main site is based in Shoreditch, but they’ve taken a residency in the courtyard of Climpson’s Arch, London Fields, over the winter. I go here for the brilliant woodfired menu. Tomos Parry, who is the head chef, is just extraordinary in how he cooks very simple food exquisitely.
LUCA
LA PETIT MAISON
Everything is done over coal and wood fire, giving it a smokey deliciousness. Much of it is cooked on the bone - Tomos does the most beautiful whole turbot - using really seasonal ingredients. It also serves great buxom wine. I’ll go here on a Saturday afternoon, drink and eat nice food. I just love it. 374 Helmsley Place, Hackney, E8 bratrestaurant.com
LA PETIT MAISON
This is a French restaurant, tucked away on a quiet mews, which again focuses on simplicity, but what I absolutely love about it is its opulence. Simplicity meets opulence is quite a tricky one to pull off; it’s what I was aiming for at The Nitery, my three-month residency at St Martins Lane London. Here, while caviar and truffles feature on the menu, you can also order the classics like pissaladière, salade nicoise or a deliciously simple pan-fried dover sole. They’re also well-known for their roasts, mainly their roast chicken
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stuffed with foie gras. Go here for superb food and quality cooking. 53-54 Brook's Mews, Mayfair, W1 lpmrestaurants.com
BRAWN
This is also one of my absolute favourites. Set on Columbia Road, it’s a local restaurant to me, so luckily I can utilise it the whole time. I love it because it’s all about simple Mediterranean food and eating here always reminds me of being on holiday. It isn’t just about really good, continental cooking though; they also source excellent ingredients, from salty, tangy Cantabrian anchovies from Santona to huge Ligurian Bull’s Heart tomatoes and sweet Italian friggitelli peppers. They have a really good piece of fish on the menu without fail, and there’s always a fantastic pasta or rice dish. 49 Columbia Road, Bethnal Green, E2 brawn.co Restore by Gizzi Erskine is published on 29 October (£25, HQ) 77
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Paradise Found For powder soft sand, sundowners and a much-needed dose of Vitamin D, the tropical island of Grenada, aka the Spice Isle, ticks every box, especially now that direct British Airways flights from the UK have resumed. For minimalist luxe, stay at Silversands – the approved quarantine resort hugs the peaceful Grand Anse beach but it’s the 100-metre infinity pool, easily the longest and chicest in the Caribbean, where you want to be. ba.com; silversandsgrenada.com
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Travel Notes
Go off-grid in Scotland, get green thinking in Amsterdam and chase the sun in Andalucia C o m p i l e d b y HARRIET COOPER
ANIMAL MAGIC Voygr Expeditions - the experiential travel provider in North India and Central Asia - has come up with an adventure that defines ‘once-in-a-lifetime’. The bespoke trip, to see the incredibly rare Amur leopard in its natural habitat and experience the immense beauty of the Russian taiga, has been three years in the planning, in order to ensure the ultimate comfort for guests despite the challenging conditions of midwinter. In keeping with the company’s ethos, 100% of the profit from this expedition goes into conservation. voygr.com
La Dolce Vita
ITALIAN IDYLL Reschio is a meticulously-restored 3700-acre estate amidst the rolling olive groves, vineyards and beehives of Umbria. Bucolic charm-meets-effortless Italian style across ten converted farmhouses (all available to rent); so too in the 11th century castle, which has been transformed into an atmospheric 36-room hotel, restaurant and spa, opening next Spring. reschio.com DREAM GREEN
Set on the island of IJburg in Amsterdam, Four Elements is the world’s first fully sustainable, energy neutral hotel. A zero waste policy operates throughout, with all the furniture and fittings recycled or upcycled in the 195 rooms, restaurant and the Wind Sky Bar, one of the highest rooftop bars in town. Eco luxe at its best. fourelementshotel.com
CHIC SHACK
Overlooking glassy Loch Nell, and only accessible by boat, foot or buggy, Inverlonan is all about disconnecting to reconnect. Spend days hiking, paddleboarding and wild swimming, before cosying down in one of the two off-grid, architect-designed bothies. A lesson in immaculate craftsmanship, each has a private deck, eco-toilet and outdoor shower. inverlonan.com
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T R AV E L
GAME CHANGER
REST ASSURED
For a dose of Mediterranean glamour and sunshine, five-star Finca Cortesin can do no wrong. The palatial Andalusian hotel, flanked by the majestic Casares mountains, sits amongst verdant, bougainvillea-strewn gardens, with a superlative pool, spa and golf course. It is now available for exclusive takeover, meaning you get all the luxury, as well as space and privacy.
fincacortesin.com
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Hidden within the heart of the Okavango Delta in Botswana, Xigera promises to be a safari experience like no other. Opening in December, expect 12 thoughtfully-designed suites and a pioneering safari experience, whether sleep-outs in a three-story steel baobab tree, game drives, glass-bottom mokoro excursions or ‘feet-in-thewater’ sundowners. xigera.com
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Wanderlust
ISLAND
Life Handbag designer Marina Raphael shares the insider secrets to her favourite Greek island, Hydra W o r d s b y GEORGIE LANE-GO DFREY
M
arina Raphael is no stranger to the world of luxury. As well as being a sixth generation member of the Swarovski family, the self-taught designer launched her own eponymous handbag label last year. Loved by fashion insiders across the world for their simple lines and structural shapes, Marina’s bags are inspired by both her affinity for the arts and her love of travel. Marina divides her time between her native Athens and London, though her heart lies in Hydra - the Greek island she has been visiting with her family since she was a child. Less developed and with fewer tourists than other hotspots like Santorini and Mykonos, Hydra is something of a hidden gem amongst the Greek islands. Situated in the Saronic Gulf, its low profile and easy proximity from Athens means it draws a long list of celebrities and models, from Sophia Loren in the 60s to Kate Moss today. But there’s also a vibrant arts scene, too, thanks to its numerous galleries and the school of fine art. No wonder then that gallerist Sadie Coles and contemporary photographer Juergen Teller both have a house here. With a Swiss-Austrian mother and a Greek father, Marina has a natural wanderlust. As such, she’s the perfect person to give insider tips on this artistic, authentic island. These are her insights into the best way to enjoy the secluded, unspoilt getaway that is Hydra.
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T R AV E L I have been visiting the island since I was a little girl. The house I stay in is actually my grandfather’s, who passed away a few years ago. Every year when I visited, he would buy me an ‘evil eye’ bracelet from one of the local boutiques in the small alleyways of Hydra. In Greece, this talisman is meant to protect you from negative energy – it was one of my favourite holiday traditions. Even though the house has been completely renovated, it’s still full of memories of him and that sense of family coming together. In Athens we all live our own lives and follow our own schedules, but in Hydra we’re together all the time. The island has its own unique charm. Hydra is actually one of the very few Greek islands that has preserved its historic buildings and
banned all vehicles, so that the only means of transportation available, other than walking, are boat and donkey. I’ve always loved the island’s unique aura; where every corner tells its own story and each stroll takes you back in time. I imagine it hasn’t changed in the last 50 years and that it’ll still look the same in 50 years’ time, too. My days on Hydra always start with a swim. I usually take a taxi boat from the port – Hydra’s only town – and visit the more remote pebble beaches to the west of the island. There are thousands of little coves to discover, which are all private and secluded, so it doesn’t take more than 10 minutes to find the perfect spot. Then I’ll head back to the port to Paradosiako, my go-to lunch spot. This is a family-owned traditional little taverna that is always full of locals – you have to be from the island to know it. We tend to order a few dishes and share them family-style – classics like Greek salad, taramasalata and lots of grilled calamari. Afternoons are spent wandering around my favourite boutiques. In Hydra port, there are lots of brilliant little shops like Koutsikou, a design concept store selling woven interiors, and Elena Votsi, where you can buy incredible, high-end jewellery. Elena is best known for designing the Olympic medals, but what I love about her designs is that they are so clean and timeless. All her creations exude modernity, but also pay tribute to Greece’s traditional motifs. My latest purchase was a beautiful ‘evil eye’ bracelet, carrying on my grandfather’s tradition.
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The Hydra look is all about comfort and ease. No one worries about dressing up here – it’s a very laid-back vibe, which is refreshing when you work in the fashion industry. Boho kaftans that can be worn from day-tonight are a must-have. You want to look chic all day, and not worry about going back to your room to get changed, so that you can make the most of your time on the island. Hydra is a unique space for inspiration. Personally, as a designer, I feel so much more relaxed and creative when I’m on the island. It’s a real artistic hub, too, with an incredible amount of galleries tucked away on its little back streets. One of my favourite exhibitions to visit is Hydra Schools Projects, which features ever-changing works by lots of different artists curated by Dimitrios Antonitsis, and is held at the Sachtoureion Mansion, the first high school of Hydra. The best spot for dinner is Omilos. For me, what makes it so special is its unique sunset view. It’s positioned right at the edge of Hydra port,
which allows you to get a perfect vista of all the small fishing boats coming and going. As the sun sets, these boats turn on their lights hanging above their decks, making the Aegean waters sparkle. Here, there’s a more international crowd and the food is sophisticated. My favourite dishes to order are the freshly caught and grilled octopus or the seafood risotto.
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T R AV E L
What to Pack
Marina’s wardrobe heroes for Hydra
For cocktails, the best bar is The Pirate. They make the most amazing Frozen Kir Royale-flavoured Daiquiri – I’ve never had one anywhere else, it’s quite unique. I head there about 9pm when there’s always a good vibe, with a fun, younger crowd. It’s the only place on the island that plays chilled lounge music, too – the rest of Hydra is quite quiet and zen.
The island’s best-kept secret is its view from the top. The hike only takes about 40 minutes and isn’t challenging, yet most people either don’t know about it or don’t bother. From the top of the island you get an incredible view over the harbour and Hydra’s unspoilt landscape. Just don’t go at midday. Instead, make the climb at 7pm – it’s the perfect time in terms of temperature.
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FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: PUBUMÉSU Peacock Fan, £105, brownsfashion.com CAMILLA Wing Of Luxor Dress, £800, farfetch.com ERES Swimsuit, £350, matchesfashion.com CELINE Riviera Sunglasses, £508, marinaraphael.com ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS Niki Sandals, £130 farfetch.com MARINA RAPHAEL Riviera Bag, £508, marinaraphael.com MISSONI Kaftan Maxi Dress, £950, farfetch.com EUGENIA KIM Mirabel Straw Hat, £321, farfetch.com CASTAÑER Carina Espadrille Wedges, £85, matchesfashion.com
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HOME & INTERIORS
Back to Nature Loewe’s new range of home fragrances is an exploration of the vegetable garden, with candles held in handcrafted earthenware pots which are an art object in their own right. Under the direction of the label’s creative director Jonathan Anderson, in-house perfumer Nuria Cruelles drew on 11 different aromas – honeysuckle, beetroot, juniper berry, tomato leaves, coriander, marihuana, luscious pea, oregano, cypress balls, ivy and liquorice (pictured) – interpreting their essences into an all-natural collection of vegetable wax candles and candleholders, room sprays, diffusers and soap. Candles from £70, Wax Candleholder £68 perfumesloewe.com
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Design Notes
Futuristic silhouettes, the material of the moment and this season’s freshest colour palette C o m p i l e d b y AMY MOOREA WONG
COLOUR PLAY
THROW SHADE
Made up of seven shapely glass shades with alternating clear and frosted sections (to evenly diffuse light), the PH Septima lamp designed by Danish visionary Poul Henningsen between 1927-31 fell out of production in the 1940s due to a material shortage. Now resurrected by lighting brand Louis Poulsen, it’s hard to believe the design is nearly 100 years old. £7,645, louispoulsen.com
Editor, curator, gallerist, businesswoman and general Italian icon Carla Sozzani has lent her inimitable eye for colour to Danish furniture brand Fritz Hansen, creating a range of 16 new tones for three of eminent Danish designer Arne Jacobsen’s stacking chairs. Spanning dusky blues to warm ochres, the mutedyet-bold shades were inspired by the interplay between daylight and darkness. Series 7 chair, from £368 fritzhansen.com
SHAPE SHIFTER
Part sculpture, part vase, part science project, Tom Dixon’s Pressed vase is designed to catch and refract light. Made up of heavyweight industrially pressed glass, by day the vase’s thick coils distort and bend whatever is placed in it, while by night the piece creates a beautiful, undulating silhouette. Press Large Vase, £200 tomdixon.net
Wish List
FLORAL TRIBUTE Whimsical floral stylist Willow Crossley has partnered with rug designer Amy Kent to create a capsule collection of four rugs. Reflecting Willow’s sustainable and local approach to floristry, the designs represent autumn, winter, spring and summer, decorated with British flowers in bloom at that time, hand-knotted in wool and silk. £820 per square metre amykent.co.uk
B
CITY CHIC
Soho Home’s autumn/winter collection is a treasure trove of more than 350 new pieces across furniture, lighting, textiles and accessories, all embodying the brand’s casual luxury aesthetic. Our pick is the seventiesstyle Garett swivel chair, upholstered in the material-of-the-moment white bouclé, designed for the newest Soho House, 180 House on the Strand. £1,495 sohohome.com
L U
E
SWOON is most vibrant of blues summons images of deep seas and intense skies, harking back to its Silk Road origins. Immerse your home in the richest of cobalt pigments for an instant hit of energy and exoticism. As Yves Klein said, ‘Blue has no dimensions; it is beyond dimensions’…
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HOME & INTERIORS
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: MARSET Dipping Pendant Light, £267; nest.co.uk GUCCI Velvet Armchair, £4,880; gucci.com LA DOUBLE J Murano Glass Carafe,£530; matchesfashion.com LIGNE ROSET Medium Buée Mouth-Blown Vase, £94; harrods.com LA CHANCE Zorro coffee table, £1,30; monologuelondon.com THE LACQUER COMPANY Two-Tone Lacquered Wood Tray, £426; modaoperandi.com VERNER PANTON FOR LOUIS POULSEN Panthella Mini Table Lamp, £355; conranshop.com SAVED NY Lapis Jacquard Cashmere Cushion, £445; matchesfashion.com WAVE MURANO GLASS Vino Scented Candle, £72; modaoperandi.com
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HOME & INTERIORS
Designer Focus
❜S ALICE WONDERLAND Her impeccable taste has seen Alice Naylor-Leyland’s homewares collection take the art of tablescaping to a new level. Here, the lifestyle doyenne talks starting a business and how to host an elegant soirée Words LUCIANA BELLINI
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I
f you’ve had a scroll through Instagram of late, you’ve probably noticed that the artfully arranged tablescape has been increasingly ubiquitous. Where once you may have screen-shotted photographs of Ottolenghi-style feasts and jawdropping sugary confections, you’re now far more likely to find yourself admiring a colour-coordinated place setting or adding a seasonally themed table to your favourites page as inspiration. The trend reached new levels of popularity during lockdown, though there’s one woman who pioneered the movement long before the pandemic: Alice Naylor-Leyland. The 34-year-old fashion maven and mother-ofthree has elevated dining to an art form, launching her homewares brand, Mrs Alice, where she sells candlesticks and elegant glasses that she’s curated from markets around the world, alongside a selection of her own designs – think chic, scallop-edged placemats and velvet napkin ring bows. But the real star of the show? Her beautiful tablescapes, which come with everything you need to create the perfect seasonal table, from themed crockery and matching linens to figurines and fake foliage. Just a month after the business launched in November last year, her Winter Woodland tablescape proved so popular that she ended up creating a second one, the Jolly Nutcracker, just to keep up with demand. Both sold out long before Christmas Day rolled around. This year, more than ever, tablescaping has provided joy and comfort. “I think it’s a wonderful source of control, actually – to at least dress your table when you might not be dressing yourself,” says Alice. “I’ve been finding laying tables really therapeutic during this time, and I think a lot of people have felt the same.” The proof is in the purchases. Her core collections in particular, the Serena and the Nancy – inspired by her mother, the Australian-born interior designer Serena Fresson and her four-year-old daughter Nancy – feature plates, glasses and linens for everyday use and have proved hugely popular. “I always knew I wanted to make evergreen collections, so they’ve been a big focus,” says Alice. It comes as no surprise that the business has been a resounding success – if there’s one thing Alice has, it’s impeccable taste. Having grown up in London with an impossibly stylish mother, she went on to study fashion at the prestigious Istituto Marangoni after reading History at Edinburgh University. Her elegant, whimsical style quickly garnered her a global following on social media, where she became something of an influencer, posting pictures of herself in beautiful, floor-sweeping gowns with close friends like Mary Charteris and Poppy Delevingne.
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HOME & INTERIORS
Indeed, Alice has just launched her first tablescape collaboration with Poppy. The two collections, in autumnal colour ways, reference their lifelong friendship and shared aesthetic, with pretty Chinoiserie plates and palm candle holders inspired by their travels together, alongside handpainted china birds and table linens in rich mustards, teals and dusty pinks. “Poppy is such a star and I can’t think of someone who lights up a room more than her. It’s her joyous energy and love of life that we’ve tried to distil into this collection.” Poppy was one of the many glittering guests at Alice’s 30th birthday party, held in the grounds of her Regencystyle estate, Stibbington House, in Cambridgeshire. Inspired by fashion photographer Tim Walker, it featured pastel-sprayed sheep, beribboned alpacas and bunches of multicoloured balloons billowing from the house’s windows. When Anna Wintour saw the photographs of the party, she was so enchanted that she featured the event in the September issue of US Vogue. Alice is a regular contributor to Vogue, writing about the glamorous parties she attends as well as her favourite
new fashion picks. She has gone on to work on high profile collaborations with brands including French Sole, Aerin Lauder and Misela, and over 137k followers tune in to her Instagram page for daily updates on her latest outfits and glimpses into her life with her handsome husband Tom, heir to one of Britain’s most eminent land-owning dynasties, and their three angelic-looking children, Billy, eight, Nancy, four, and Felix, one. Though she admits fashion has long been a fondness of hers – “clothes really make me tick – I love how they make you feel” – when it came to launching her own brand, she knew it had to be homewares. “But I wanted to make it a bit different rather than just be another person selling another plate,” she says. “So I thought, why not curate and source the whole thing for everybody and sell it all together? The business was organic – I really have always done this for my own tables.” Her exquisite table settings have become something of a trademark and another reason for her ever-growing social following, with fans around the world looking for tips on how to throw an elegant summer soirée (snip some
greenery from the garden or use a bowl of lemons as a centrepiece instead of flowers), put on the perfect Halloween dinner (plenty of pumpkins, owls and toadstools) or create the ultimate festive spread (add candlelight and glitterencrusted reindeer). It’s a skill Alice picked up from her mother, who remains a close collaborator and confidant when it comes to all things tablescaping. “My mum brought me up on her own and we’re really close,” she says. “Growing up, she always went that extra mile – even little things like when you have sparkling water and still water, she’d decant them into glass bottles and on the table the sparkling would have a ribbon around it. I never forgot stuff like that. Laying tables brought us together and we’ve always had that bond over it. To me, it’s an art form.” The business started from her kitchen table at the tail end of last year and she admits that her Instagram profile has been a huge help in getting it off the ground. “I’m embarrassed to say Instagram is the business,” she says. “I’m amazed by the power of it, especially when it comes to international orders.”
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HOME & INTERIORS
In spite of her past experience working on collaborations, Alice says starting her own business felt completely different. “It was really nerve racking,” she says. “I had to call my mother every minute to be like, ‘Do you think this is right? What about this?’” Now the business is rapidly expanding, with plans already underway for her Halloween and Thanksgiving collections. “The house has been
completely overrun with stock during the last few months. But we’ve just signed a lease on a warehouse, which feels very grown up.” For now, the kitchen table works well enough for juggling work alongside her young children, though she admits it isn’t always easy – especially during lockdown, when she was responsible for all the home schooling. “It’s been…” she pauses. “A balance. Really, it’s about not being too hard on yourself. Strict time allocation is how you survive.” When she’s not touring markets in Paris and Germany looking for her next best-seller you’ll find her hunting down new fashion designers for herself – Sandra Mansour and Johanna Ortiz are two particular favourites at the moment – or trawling eBay for Staffordshire dogs and vintage Soane fabrics to cover cushions with. She describes the style at her Cambridgeshire home as “old school”. “We moved into our house when I was quite young, 26, and I remember my friends were amazed at how much chintz I had,” she recalls. “We have a lot of old fabrics and I make napkins and tablecloths out of them – I’m so inspired by people like John Fowler and Nancy Lancaster, all the greats who made used fabric a thing. And I like adding layers wherever I can – I probably have 500 plates all over my walls.” It’s a far cry from her “kooky” flat in Chelsea, which is covered in palm print wallpaper. “The London flat is a neverending thing I won’t finish,” she says. “Now it needs an Art Deco bar, which I haven’t got yet – but I will!” The city is where she comes for work meetings and to catch up with friends. “I love the hustle and bustle of London, but I’m definitely more of a country person now.” These days she’s happiest at Stibbington, dreaming up her newest collection or planning her next table. “Think how many hours you put into cooking when you host a dinner – and then you sit down and you eat and it takes all of 12 minutes!” she says. “So why wouldn’t you spend a little time making the environment you’re eating in feel nice? For me, having a decorated space really does make me enjoy my evening that much more.” mrsalice.com
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THE GLOSSARY
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FROM TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: Poppy Chinoserie Dinner Plate, £44 Leopard and Palm Candlestick Holder, £54 Forget-Me-Not Water Glasses, £60 Seville Pink Tulip Water Jug, £51 Lemon Butter Dish, £60 White Tulip Vase, £35 Blue Parrot Candle Holder, £83 All available from mrsalice.com
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The art of Ta b l e s c a p i n g Make dining at home more joyful with these fashion-meetshomeware collections, offering a kaleidoscopic symphony of colour and print on everything from porcelain to glassware C o m p i l e d b y AMY MOOREA WONG
Above: Auricula Dinner Plate, £55; Right: Mongiardino Jug, £190
CABANA Cabana magazine’s catalogue of tableware is varied and extensive, inspired by global design, and includes collaborations with Carolina Herrera, Aerin Lauder and Sensi Studio as well as one-off flea market finds. Hand crafted around the world, the collection comprises glassware blown in Murano, woven Moroccan placemats, natural dyed Indian fabrics, hand sewn Egyptian embroidery and pieces from everywhere in between. Mix and match the vibrant tones and historic patterns in your next tablescape for a wonderfully audacious print clash and a symphony of colour. cabanamagazine.com
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HOMES & INTERIORS
LUISA BECCARIA
Above: Cherry Blossom Set Of Two Dinner Plates £210
With her prêt-à-porter a sea of pastel tones, tiny florals and gauzy fabrics, it’s no surprise that Sicilian fashion icon Luisa Beccaria’s foray into homeware is like floating through a dream. The latest collection is suffused in an ethereal palette of purples, blues and pinks, with colours fading in and out of each other across iridescent glassware, while plates and linens are covered in a smattering of exquisite, tiny cherry blossom. Invest in the Renaissance-like tablecloth and scatter matching blooms across it. luisabeccaria.it
LA DOUBLEJ La DoubleJ’s tableware is a cacophony of pattern. The exuberant motifs that dance across founder JJ Martin’s maximalist ready-to-wear also enliven plates, glassware, napkins and tablecloths, which are available as individual pieces as well as coordinating or clashing sets. Dinnerware is made in collaboration with fine porcelain maker Ancap in Verona, linens with historic Lombardy textile producer Mascioni and glassware created by heritage glass blower Salvaiati in Murano. For a truly eye-catching tablescape, layer as many designs as you dare. ladoublej.com
Above: Amphora Colombo-Print Porcelain Vase, £435
DIOR
Right: Engraved Water Glass, £120
The Monsieur Dior collection sets the scene for the most sophisticated of suppers. Drawing influence from the art de vivre so beloved by Christian Dior, the elegant porcelain plates, platters, cups and bowls pay homage to the emblematic Black and White striped collection, designed by the couturier and his friend Jean-Pierre Frere in 1955. Pair with handpainted linen napkins complete with playing card motifs, from the Check’N’Dior collection designed by creative director Cordelia de Castellane, or keep it simple with starched whites and foraged greenery for the most timeless of tabletops. dior.com THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM
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L A S T WO R D
MY GLOSSARY Singer, fashion muse and heiress Daphne Guinness opens her little black book to the capital A s t o l d t o LUCIAN A BELLINI
HOME IS… I’m currently living in Whitehall, but my music studio is in Holland Park. I always enjoy walking through the park and watching the peacocks. GO-TO LOCAL SHOP Heywood Hill in Curzon Street is a classic bookshop with an old-fashioned soul. Walking into the shop feels like like stepping back in time. heywoodhill.com FAVOURITE RESTAURANT I’ve been going to IKEDA in Brook Street for many IKEDA years as I’m a huge Japanese food fan. My favourite dish is hirame sashimi, because it’s so fresh and simple. I also love 5 Hertford Street – the service is impeccable and I’ve known everyone there for years. ikedarestaurant.com 5hertfordstreet.com FAVOURITE HOTEL I adore both Claridge’s and The Connaught for their timeless oldschool glamour. claridges.co.uk the-connaught.co.uk FAVOURITE MEMBERS’ CLUB The Groucho Club on Dean Street – there’s always a real cross section of characters. When I go I’ll order a ginger beer and sit down to sing at the piano with Rod Melvin, the resident pianist. thegrouchoclub.com FAVOURITE GALLERY I could spend a whole day in Sir John Soane’s Museum and still be happy to visit again the next
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day. The antiques and artefacts are beautifully preserved and curated, and his sketchbooks are fascinating. soane.org I GET MY HAIR DONE AT… My home. I have a wonderful stylist called Tom Berry who creates a monochromatic take on a beehive for me. Currently I’m including a pastel flash of pink for a change! ABSOLUTE FAVOURITE FLOWERS WELLNESS OR FITNESS SPACE When you enter the spa at Corinthia London it has the most delicious scent and the lighting is very soothing, which helps me relax immediately. I usually get a massage there as I travel a lot. corinthia.com
FAVOURITE BOUTIQUE OR STORE I’ve been shopping at Dover Street Market since it opened and the people who work there are like family to me. It’s a great place to discover curious stuff and new designers like Peter Do; he worked with Phoebe Philo at Céline and his tailoring is perfect. Also Kei Ninomiya – he’s Rei Kawakubo’s protégé and has his own line, Noir, under Comme des Garçons. He’s a real genius and so talented. doverstreetmarket.com
FAVOURITE LANDMARK Kenwood House in Hampstead. I love Georgian neoclassical architecture. It houses some wonderful paintings and there are some extraordinary sculptures in the grounds too, such as Monolith Empyrean by Barbara Hepworth. english-heritage.org.uk GO-TO FLORIST Absolute Flowers and Ray at the Floral Studio (both on the Portobello Road) create exquisite bouquets. My favourite flowers are peonies and old-fashioned roses in pinks and whites. absoluteflowersandhome.com; floralstudionottinghill.co.uk
TRANQUIL SPACE The Wallace Collection captivates me like a child. I can spend ages gazing at the suits of armour downstairs, which transport me to the medieval era. wallacecollection.org
SIR JOHN SOANE’S MUSEUM PAUL FRYER
I’VE CURRENTLY GOT MY EYE ON… Paul Fryer is the greatest underrated artist of our time. I’d pretty much like to own everything by him! And in terms of music, The Black Angels. I came across them by chance but their music is my new favourite thing. paulfryer.net; theblackangels.com
FAVOURITE TREATMENT Dominic Cheetham and Dan Hughes at Sloane Square Chiropractors are the best chiros in town and they always manage to fix me. sloanesquarechiropractors.com MY SIGNATURE SCENT IS… A few years ago I made my own scent, Daphne, with Adrian Joffe at Comme des Garçons, which has notes of bitter orange, saffron, tuberose, iris, patchouli - and there is another one in the works - watch this space… I’ve always mixed my own perfume – my bathroom is like an apothecary.
FAVOURITE MUSIC VENUE I have performed in many London venues, from tiny spaces like The Scotch of St. James to bigger ones such as the Shepherd’s Bush Empire. I saw The Good the Bad & the Queen last year at EartH, which is a very cool space in Hackney. the-scotch.co.uk; academymusicgroup.com; earthhackney.co.uk
Daphne’s new album Revelations is out now BARBARA HEPWORTH
FAVOURITE BRITISH FASHION DESIGNERS My friends Gareth Pugh and Iris Van Herpen, as they are both so unique in what they do and are real pioneers of sculptural form as fashion. irisvanherpen.com
IRIS VAN HERPEN
FAVOURITE INTERIOR DESIGNER My sister-in-law Camilla Guinness has such a great eye. She’s not interested in trends and her taste in everything is beautiful. camillaguinness.com
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