The Glossary Spring 2021

FA S H I O N | B E A U T Y | H E A LT H | W E L L N E S S

ISSUE 13 SPRING 2021 £5.00

A R T S | C U L T U R E | F O O D | D R I N K | T R AV E L | H O M E S

YOUR LONDON STYLE GUIDE

C U LT U R E

NEW OPENINGS STYLE

JOYFUL FASHION WATC H E S

INVESTMENT TIMEPIECES BEAUTY

UPLIFTING FRAGRANCES TR AVEL

LUXE STAYCATIONS

Kate Moss The SUPERMODEL on CREATIVITY & STYLE

FOOD

ALFRESCO DINING

The Roaring

TWENTIES Embrace London’s new energy PLUS: Georgia Spray on ART Yinka Ilori on DESIGN Alessandra Steinherr on SKINCARE Beata Heuman on INTERIORS Anna Barnett on RESTAURANTS & Clara Paget’s LONDON FRONT COVER 13.indd 1

01

9 772515

660000

05/05/2021 22:28

2 ROLEX FLAPS 1-203_21.indd ROLEX FLAPS 1ISSUU.indd 03_21.indd 1-2 ROLEX FLAPS 03_21.indd ROLEX SPREAD FOR 1 11

30/04/2021 15:20 30/04/2021 15 30/04/2021 15:20 07/05/2021 09:27

FLAPS 03_21.indd 2 1-21-2 ROLEX ROLEX FLAPS FLAPS 03_21.indd 03_21.indd ROLEX SPREAD FOR ISSUU.indd 2 22

30/04/2021 15:20 30/04/2021 15:20 07/05/2021 09:2730/04/20

4 ROLEX IFC RHP FOB 03_21.indd 1

30/04/2021 15:22

Th Y O U R LTOHN IDROTNE S TYLE GUIDE E N

I S S U E

11

Arts & Culture

8 THE GLOSSARY EDIT The season’s most joyful finds 11 AGENDA London’s must-see cultural openings 20 COOL & COLLECTED Georgia Spray talks to us about her online gallery and taking the art world by storm 24 IN THE FRAME How to start an art collection

Style

28 FASHION NOTES Essential new season style updates 30 FASHION TRENDS The new season’s checklist

76

Watches & Jewellery

84

57

74

36 WATCH & JEWELLERY NOTES The need-to-know pieces and covetable collections 38 KATE MOSS Supermodel Kate Moss speaks out on jewellery shopping and style 44 INVESTMENT WATCHES The dazzling timepieces to invest in

92

2

CONTENTS_13.indd 2

05/05/2021 16:34

CONTENTS Spring 2021

Beauty & Wellness

48 BEAUTY NOTES The latest products and trends 50 THE NEW SKINCARE RULES Alessandra Steinherr shares her go-to products to refresh and reinvigorate 55 GOLDEN WONDERS Alessandra Steinherr’s glow-giving secrets 57 A SCENTS OF SPRING What you’ll be spritzing this season

Food & Drink

62 TASTING NOTES The restaurants and bars creating a buzz in the capital 64 HAUTE CUISINE AT HOME Hilary Armstrong samples London’s Michelin-starred doorstep deliveriess 68 ALFRESCO DINING Anna Barnett’s best-loved places to eat and drink in town

Travel

74 TRAVEL NOTES Where to go and what to see 76 THE GREAT ESCAPE The countryside retreats for an idyllic staycation with friends and family

Home & Interiors

84 DESIGN NOTES Interior design inspiration and ideas 86 BRIGHT SPARK Beata Heuman on the power of imagination and the art of interiors 92 RAINBOW WORLD The kaleidoscopic world of artist Yinka Ilori

Last Word

96 MY LONDON GLOSSARY Clara Paget’s little black book

38 FA S H I O N | B E A U T Y | H E A LT H | W E L L N E S S

ISSUE 13 SPRING 2021 £5.00

A R T S | C U L T U R E | F O O D | D R I N K | T R AV E L | H O M E S

YOUR LONDON STYLE GUIDE

8

C U LT U R E

NEW OPENINGS

Kate Moss

STYLE

JOYFUL FASHION WATC H E S

INVESTMENT TIMEPIECES BEAUTY

The SUPERMODEL on CREATIVITY & STYLE

UPLIFTING FRAGRANCES TR AVEL

LUXE STAYCATIONS FOOD

ALFRESCO DINING

The Roaring

TWENTIES Embrace London’s new energy PLUS: Georgia Spray on ART Yinka Ilori on DESIGN Alessandra Steinherr on SKINCARE Beata Heuman on INTERIORS Anna Barnett on RESTAURANTS & Clara Paget’s LONDON

01

9 772515

660000

On The Cover Kate Moss

by Chris Collis

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M

CONTENTS_13.indd 3

3

05/05/2021 16:34

DELLA VITE 03_21.indd 1

30/04/2021 13:43

Editor’s Letter

W

ith the optimism of a brighter future, London is springing to life, with shops, restaurants and bars open and businesses back on track. It’s a story of a new Roaring Twenties where the mood is of hope, elation and, above all, fun.

No-one epitomises this more than our cover star Kate Moss. The British supermodel is London’s free spirit, the bastion of cool for over three decades, forever defining styles and setting trends. Now she has turned her hand to design, collaborating with French fine jewellery brand Messika on her own collection. She talks shopping, self-gifting and statement pieces on page 38.

With our renewed sense of positivity and energy, we’re now ready to embrace the new season - and with a new look. We edit the must-have fashion pieces for our own les années folles.

The capital is enjoying a cultural boom, with museums and galleries promising a packed programme of exhibitions and events. So, too, we must applaud the tenacity of London’s restaurants, which in the face of adversity launched brilliant luxury food delivery services - a pandemic legacy that looks set to continue. Hilary Armstrong savours the best Michelin-starred meal kits, while cook and food writer Anna Barnett shares her favourite alfresco dining spots for sun-drenched lunches and star-lit dinners.

We talk to interior designer Beata Heuman about creating spaces that are as inspiring as they are energising, while art curator Georgia Spray shares her secrets to curating your own art collection. And who better to embody the city’s new-found optimism than designer Yinka Illori, whose glorious technicolour palette has brought cheer to the streets of London in the form of murals and installations, and now into our homes with his joy-evoking tableware collection.

As we begin this new chapter, we urge you to continue to support the city’s businesses and brands whenever possible and to keep safe.

Enjoy the issue - we hope it inspires you.

Charlotte Adsett, Editorial Director

Edito

r’

M E TA L L IC Edit

ic s p ks

e

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:

SAINT LAURENT Sunglasses, £330, farfetch.com; ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS Donousa Sandals, £145, ancient-greeksandals.com; ROLEX DateJust 31 Oyster, 31 mm, Yellow Gold & Diamonds Watch, £34,550, watches-of-switzerland.co.uk ALIGHIERI The Apollo's Song Earrings,, £300, alighieri.co.uk BOY SMELLS Polyamberous Candle, £45, spacenk.com GUCCI Sandals, £665, gucci.com; CREED Millésime Impérial Eau de Parfum, £245, creedfragrances.com; JIL SANDER Bracelet, £430, farfetch.com; CHANEL 19 Large Handbag,, £4,680, chanel.com

THE GL GLOSSARY TEAM

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett charlotte@theglossarymagazine.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR: Harriet Cooper harriet@theglossarymagazine.com CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Luciana Bellini luciana@theglossarymagazine.com WATCH & JEWELLERY EDITOR: Ming Liu ming@theglossarymagazine.com CONTRIBUTING BEAUTY DIRECTOR: Alessandra Steinherr CONTRIBUTING RESTAURANT EDITOR: Hilary Armstrong CONTRIBUTING INTERIORS EDITOR: Amy Moorea Wong CONTRIBUTORS: Jess Kolham-Hohler, Sarah Royce-Greensill, Lucy Scovell ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle ray@theglossarymagazine.com PRODUCTION MANAGER: George Willis production@theglossarymagazine.com FINANCE MANAGER: Amanda Clayton accounts@theglossarymagazine.com SUBSCRIPTIONS: subscriptions@theglossarymagazine.com EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editorial@theglossarymagazine.com Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited, 85 Great Portland Street, First Floor, London, W1W 7LT © 2021 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission.

The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to The Glossary magazine’s right to edit.

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M

WELCOME LETTER 13.indd 5

5

05/05/2021 09:02

the guest list

M a y / J u n e 2 0 2 1

THE ART AFICIONADO

Georgia Spray

The entrepreneur and curator speaks to us about building an art collection at home on page 20

Having worked at leading art institutions including White Cube Gallery and Christie’s, and built up a reputation for her exquisite taste, Georgia founded Partnership Editions in 2017, a curated online platform to connect would-be collectors with handpicked emerging artists.

THE INTERIOR DESIGNER

Beata Heuman

This summer in London…

Interiors influencer Beata shares her inspirations and design philosophy on page 86

“I’ll be having a long lunch in the sun at my favourite restaurant 26 Stoney Street in Borough Market after visiting the Tate and White Cube galleries”

Since establishing her eponymous studio in 2013, Sweden-born, London-based Beata has become one of the most in-demand interior designers in the business, garnering many prestigious accolades. Her recent book Every Room Should Sing is her decorating manifesto, bringing to life her playful, characterful eye.

This summer in London…

“I can’t wait to spend a self-indulgent day at a gallery. I’ve come to realise how much seeing art inspires me and my work. I’ve really missed it”

THE BEAUT Y EXPERT

Alessandra Steinherr The Glossary Contributing Beauty Director Alessandra sets the new beauty rules on page 50

A wealth of knowledge and expertise, plus her no-nonsense approach, has seen Alessandra become one of the most respected beauty journalists in the industry. With myriad followers on Instagram, her #SundayFacial – in which she reveals her favourite products – has become a weekly ritual for many.

This summer in London…

“I’ll be ordering miso black cod tacos and churros ice cream sandwiches at the new Japanese-Mexican fusion restaurant Los Mochis in Notting Hill”

T H E C U L I N A R Y S TA R

Anna Barnett

Cook, author and presenter Anna divulges her favourite alfresco dining spots in the capital on page 68

Having built up a successful career in fashion, Anna switched her attention to the world of food. She has contributed to blogs, magazines and newspapers, written two cookbooks, and launched a podcast The Filling, where she interviews celebrity guests in their kitchens.

She also regularly hosts pop-up restaurants and cookery classes.

This summer in London…

“I’ll be attending all the major art exhibitions. First on the list is Tracey Emin and Edvard Munch The Loneliness of the Soul at the Royal Academy of Arts”

THE ARTIST

Yinka Ilori

The British-Nigerian designer brings his colorama aesthetic to our homes with his debut homewares collection on page 92 Known for his love of exuberant patterns and vibrant palettes, Yinka began his practice in 2011. The London-based multi-disciplinary artist and designer has been spreading kaleidoscopic joy through his contemporary projects ever since, from furniture to the largescale murals that adorn the capital’s streets.

This summer in London...

“I’m looking forward to going to the theatre to see plays with an audience – I like the Bush Theatre in Shepherd’s Bush. Festivals and live music are also on my agenda”

6

Contribs 13_v2.indd 6

04/05/2021 23:29

58283 Creed 3 Bottle CREEDSP 03_21.indd 1 Ad_MAGAZINE_210x270.indd 1

10/03/2021 10:40 16:17

Stella McCartney Kind Jumper

Floral Street London Poppy

Eau de Parfum, 50ml

Vibrant, optimistic and full of cheer, this jumper encapsulates the spirit of 2021 £925; stellamccartney.com

A mood-lifter of zesty citrus and salt-spray marine that celebrates the strength and resilience of London. £60; floralstreet.com

Tom Dixon Globe Burst Chandelier

The designer’s extraordinary space-age statement light gives off endless shimmering reflections, making any room shine. £10,000; tomdixon.com

Edit The

Feel uplifted with this season’s most joyful finds

Leaf Envy Calathea Crimson Plant Add a pop of colour to your house plants.

From £22 leafenvy.com

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley x Gia Couture

The model has created a capsule footwear collection that taps into her minimalist style with natural accents and neutral tones.

From £409; giacouture.it

8

THE GLOSSARY EDIT 13.indd 8

05/05/2021 21:49

Loewe + Paula's Ibiza

A Loewe straw tote continues to be a summer essential; this season, pick up a basket bag from the Paula’s Ibiza collaboration. £450; net-a-porter.com

Edon Choi x Liv & Dom Plate & Trinket Bowls

Marni Love Brooch

The womenswear designer has teamed up with Lewes-based ceramicists Liv & Dom to create holiday-inspired homewares.

From £55; eudonchoi.com

Spread a message of love this summer. £170; marni.com

Bobbin Brownie 7 Bicycle

With navigating the capital on two wheels never more popular, a colourful bike is a must-have for Londoners this season. £495; bobbinbikes.com

JW Anderson Blanket

Cosy up in this limited edition merino wool blanket created in collaboration with artist Shawanda Corbett.

Price on request; jwanderson.com

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M

THE GLOSSARY EDIT 13.indd 9

9

05/05/2021 21:49

C R E AT I N G C H A N G E . I S L A N D B Y I S L A N D .

S U N G L A S S E S M A D E F R O M O C E A N P L A S T I C ® C L E A N W AV E S . C O M

CLEAN WAVES 03_21.indd 1

29/04/2021 13:36

JAMES BARNOR Accra /London – A Retrospective

SERPENTINE GALLERY

19 May – 22 O ctob e r James Barnor began his six-decade career as a studio portraitist, photojournalist and lifestyle photographer in his hometown of Accra, Ghana, where he chronicled a nation on the cusp of colonial independence. A move to London in the late fifties saw him turn his lens on an increasingly multicultural post-war Britain. Forever a trailblazer, he was, for example, one of the first to photograph black models for magazine covers.

This summer, the Serpentine celebrates Barnor’s singular work and legacy with a major retrospective, focusing on the period between 1950 and 1980. serpentinegalleries.org

AGENDA OPENER 13.indd 9

03/05/2021 14:29

Agenda W H A T ’S O N & W H E R E

H A R R I E T

C O O P E R

Julie Curtiss

MONADS AND DYADS

W H I T E C U B E M A S O N ' S YA R D

14 May – 2 6 June

Originally born in France, artist Julie Curtiss now lives in Brooklyn, New York, where she creates her bold, crisply detailed - often darkly humorous - works, addressing themes of femininity and identity. Monads and Dyads is her first exhibition in London, featuring new paintings, works on paper and sculptures. whitecube.com

Igshaan Adams

KICKING DUST

Render by Es Devlin Studio, Photo: Somerset House/Kevin Meredith

Igshaan Adams, Agter Om, 2020. ©Igshaan Adams Courtesy of the artist and Casey Kaplan, New York

B y

19 May – 2 5 July

FOREST FOR CHANGE

H AY WA R D GA L L E R Y

SOMERSET HOUSE

Themes of race, religion and sexuality are woven through the abstract textile works of South African artist Igshaan Adams, who lives and works in Cape Town. For his first solo exhibition in the UK, the Hayward Gallery has brought together Adams’ suspended sculptures, large-scale weavings and intricate tapestries, all made with a kaleidoscopic range of natural and synthetic materials, which dramatically contrast with the iconic Brutalist gallery space. southbankcentre.co.uk

The Global Goals Pavilion 1 — 27 June 2 021

The 2021 London Design Biennale centres around how design can address global challenges and crises.

Integral to this is Forest for Change – The Global Goals Pavilion, a leafy landscape comprising 400 trees in the Somerset House courtyard. Designed by artist and Biennale Artistic Director Es Devlin, its purpose is to bring life to the solutions needed to address climate change, inequality and the Covid-19 recovery. somersethouse.org.uk; londondesignbeinnale.com

12

AGENDA 13.indd 12

03/05/2021 19:25

Original drawing for Alice in Wonderland of the White Rabbit, 1967 © Ralph Steadman Art Collection, 2019. All rights reserved.

A R T S & C U LT U R E

DAVID HOCKNEY

ALICE: CURIOUSER & CURIOUSER

THE ARRIVAL OF SPRING, NORMANDY, 2020 R OYA L AC A D E M Y

V& A M U S E U M

23 May — 2 6 S e pte mb e r

17 May – 31 D ece mb e r

All works by David Hockney. © David Hockney

Cheshire Cat, psychedelic poster by Joseph McHugh, published by East Totem West. USA, 1967 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

While at home in Normandy during the pandemic last year, David Hockney put his time to good use. The multi-disciplinary artist - one of the most esteemed British creatives of the 20th century - produced 116 works documenting the arrival of Spring, all ‘painted’ on his iPad and then printed onto paper. The result is a joyous celebration of both the season and the wonder of nature. royalacademy.org.uk

From white rabbits and flamingos to the Queen of Hearts and a Mad Hatter, Lewis Carroll’s novels about a little girl called Alice have been captivating audiences for 157 years. This immersive and theatrical ‘Alice’ exhibition invites visitors to take a mind-bending journey down the rabbit hole, with over 300 exhibits - from the original manuscript to photography by Tim Walker exploring the cultural impact of this fantastical tale. vam.ac.uk

Alice at the Mad Hatter's Tea Party, Illustration for Alice's Adventures in Wonderland by John Tenniel, 1865 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

AGENDA 13.indd 13

13

03/05/2021 19:25

Clockwise from top left: Telephone Torment (Le Supplice du téléphone), 1944; Jean Dubuffet in Paris, France, 1972, Photograph by Francis Chaverou; Vicissitudes (Les Vicissitudes), Gaston Duf., Rinâûsêrôse viltritiês, 1950; Wall and Opinions (Murs et Avis), 1945.

Jean Dubuffet Brutal Beauty

BARBICAN ART GALLERY

17 May — 22 Aug ust Jean Dubuffet was the founder of Art Brut, which he defined as “pieces of work executed by people untouched by artistic culture”. An avid collector of this genre, he was also an artist, forever rebelling against conventional ideas of beauty. This show - a mix of his own work and that from his extensive collection - gives a fascinating insight into arguably one of the most provocative voices in post-war modern art. barbican.org.uk

Reflections THE BRITISH MUSEUM

17 May – 15 Aug ust

It’s been a decade since the British Museum started acquiring contemporary art from the Middle East and North Africa and to showcase the remarkable breadth of its collection, the cultural behemoth has put together this extraordinary exhibition of over 100 works from artists born in or connected to countries from Iran to Morocco. britishmuseum.org

14

AGENDA 13.indd 14

Clockwise from top left: Huda Lutfi, Al-Sitt and her Sunglasses, 2008; Sulafa Hijazi, Untitled. 2012; Marwan Kassab-Bachi (known as Marwan) , Gesichtslandschaft (Face Landscape), 1973; Shafic Abboud, Nu, c. 1969; Monir Shahroudy Farmanfarmaian (known as Monir), Untitled, 2005

03/05/2021 19:25

Clockwise from top left: Train to Vermont, 2020; My Mother in a Blue Shawl in her Doorway, 2020 Self-Portrait Naked with Mum I, 2020; Self-Portrait in Striped Shirt with My Mother II, 2019

CHANTAL JOFFE VICTORIA MIRO

4 June - 31 July

From left to right: Lost In Translation, 2013; Tia, 2017; Transfiguration (He's No Saint), 2017

Above, from left: Rembrandt, Self Portrait; Christ and St Mary Magdalen at the Tomb; A Woman in Bed

For her latest body of work, acclaimed figurative painter Chantal Joffe has turned her attention to her mother, Daryll, producing a number of portraits which address issues of aging, motherhood and invisibility. Part of an ongoing series the London-based artist started some three decades ago, the works on display tableau the shifting relationship between mother and child over time and are incredibly moving in their honesty and warmth. victoria-miro.com

JENNIFER PACKER

THE EYE IS NOT SATISFIED WITH SEEING SERPENTINE GALLERY

19 May – 22 Aug ust

Characterised by a vibrant approach to colour and light, Jennifer Packer’s portraits of close family and friends are an emotionally intimate, startlingly powerful insight into contemporary black lives. In this major survey, the New York-based artist’s first institutional solo show in Europe, new paintings, rarely seen drawings and her extraordinary still lifes of flowers and interior scenes further pack a punch. serpentinegalleries.org

T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

AGENDA 13.indd 15

15

03/05/2021 19:25

TAT E B R I TA I N

7 July – 24 O ctob e r Paula Rego is one of the most significant figurative artists of her generation, known for her compelling paintings, pastels, etchings and sculptures touching on themes of sexuality and gender, fear, desire, power and grief - with women often the protagonists of the narrative.

This, the most comprehensive retrospective of her body of work to date, charts Rego’s own extraordinary tale, highlighting the personal nature of her work and its socio-political context.

tate.org.uk

Jules Richard Rodin dans son atelier Musée Rodin, © Musée Rodin

The Dance. 1988

Paula Rego

The EY Exhibition

The Making of Rodin TAT E M O D E R N

18 May – 21 Nove mb e r

Migrants, Mayra, Picnic across the border, Tecate, Mexico - U.S.A., 2017

The Kiss and The Thinker have rendered Auguste Rodin the most famous sculptor of the modern era. And yet, while we are familiar with his bronze and marble pieces, this fascinating show shines a light on the importance of clay and plaster in his oeuvre, as he constantly experimented with movement, light and volume, as well as evoking the atmosphere of the artist’s studio.

tate.org

JR: CHRONICLES S A ATC H I GA L L E R Y

4 June – 3 O ctob e r

French artist JR is a dynamic storyteller, known for projects that not only bring together diverse groups of people but that also create dialogue around issues ranging from women’s rights to immigration and gun control. Here, the Saatchi Gallery showcases the iconic pieces that trace his career, from his documentation of graffiti artists in Paris in the early 2000s to recent digitally collaged murals. saatchigallery.com

Study for Torso of John the Baptist, 1878–87, © Musée Rodin

16

AGENDA 13.indd 16

03/05/2021 19:25

Charlotte Perriand TH E MODER N LI FE DESIGN MUSEUM

19 June – 5 S e pte mb e r Charlotte Perriand was a visionary ‘interior architect’ for more than seven decades, with her pioneering designs shaping the 20th century. Perriand’s family helped curate this exhibition, which recreates some of her most famous interiors, alongside displays of her furniture (the iconic Chaise Longue Basculante is standout), as well as sketches, photographs and scrapbooks, and works by her friends and colleagues including Le Corbusier, Fernand Léger and Pablo Picasso, in whose shadows she so long lived.

Charlotte Perriand on the chaise longue basculante B306, 1929 © AChP/ © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2021

designmuseum.org

YAYOI KUSAMA: INFINITY MIRROR ROOMS TAT E M O D E R N

Spr ing 2021

Chandelier of Grief 2016/2018 , © Yayoi Kusama

Visitors are invited to step into infinite space as they experience Yayoi Kusama’s immersive installations at Tate Modern, which shimmer with endless reflections. While Infinity Mirrored Room - Filled with the Brilliance of Life is an other-worldy vision created by hundreds of tiny twinkling lights in a mirrored space, Chandelier of Grief is more haunting, a ‘boundless universe’ of rotating crystal chandeliers. tate.org.uk

T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

AGENDA 13.indd 17

Infinity Mirrored Room – Filled with the Brilliance of Life 2011/2017, © Yayoi Kusama

17

03/05/2021 19:25

Grace Pailthorpe Crustacean Caress 1935

WHITECHAPEL GALLERY CELEBRATES ITS 120th ANNIVERSARY Whitechapel Gallery has been bringing great art to east London for 120 years. To mark the anniversary, it promises a stellar exhibition programme over the coming months

S

pring 1901. A crowd was gathering outside a terracotta building on Whitechapel High Street. Curious and no doubt a little transfixed by the electric lights within, the largely working-class throng were there to visit the newly opened Whitechapel Gallery.

It was just as the Gallery’s founders Canon Samuel and Henrietta Barnett would have wished. Social reformers, they “believed in the power of art - not only to educate, but also to unite communities”, Gallery Director Iwona Blazwick writes in her blog celebrating the cultural institution's 120th anniversary.

The Barnetts wanted to create a safe, welcoming space for creative innovation - something the turn-of-the-century East End lacked - and had even instructed architect Charles Harrison Townsend to build the gallery entrance without steps to make it accessible to all. Needless to say, the inaugural exhibition – Modern Pictures by Living Artists, Pre-Raphaelites and Old Masters – was a runaway success, with 260,000 visitors.

Over the following twelve decades, the Gallery has continued to blaze a trail, bringing a succession of modern masters to London, many for the first time, as well as championing local artists and groups, like the Women’s International Art Club, which counted Gillian Ayres, Lee Krasner and Elisabeth Frink among its members.

Perhaps its most famous alumni is Pablo Picasso, who debuted at the Gallery in 1939 with just one work, Guernica. This was the painting’s first and only visit to Britain. Quite a coup for the Whitechapel. Other solo shows have included Jackson Pollock, Mark Rothko, Lucian Freud, Bridget Riley and Barbara Hepworth, while contemporary greats include Cindy Sherman, Gillian Wearing and Sarah Lucas. To name but a very few.

“120 years has seen dramatic changes in the East End,” concludes Blazwick, “but the Whitechapel Gallery’s exhibitions, education programmes and spirit of innovation remain constant.” whitechapelgallery.org

PHANTOMS OF SURREALISM WHITECHAPEL GALLERY

19 May – 12 D ece mb e r One summer’s day in 1936, a woman in a bridal gown was spotted in Trafalgar Square, her head covered in red roses as a tribute to a Salvador Dali painting.

It was artist Sheila Legge, appearing as ‘the phantom of Surrealism’ to publicise the London International Surrealist Exhibition. This new show celebrates the Exhibition, focussing on the pivotal role of women as both artists and behind-thescenes organisers.

Sheila Legge as Surrealist ‘Phantom’, Trafalgar Square, London, 11 June 1936

18

AGENDA 13.indd 18

03/05/2021 19:25

EILEEN AGAR

ANGEL OF ANARCHY

WHITECHAPEL GALLERY

19 May – 29 Aug ust Born in Buenos Aires in 1899, Eileen Agar moved to England as a child, where she largely remained, enjoying a seven-decade career as an artist. Though she took inspiration from Cubism and Surrealism, Agar developed her own personal style whatever medium she worked in, whether painting, collage, drawing or photography. Forever pushing boundaries, she even experimented in fashion design and modelled for Issey Miyake at the tender age of 87. Angel of Anarchy, the largest exhibition of Agar’s work to date, celebrates her distinct style and innovative oeuvre.

Clockwise from top left: Erotic Landscape, 1942; Photograph of Agar wearing Ceremonial Hat for Eating Bouillabaisse, 1936; Rock 3, 1985; Dance of Peace, 1945; Eileen Agar, 1927

DESDE EL SALÓN

SOL CALERO EXPLORES THE HISCOX COLLECTION WHITECHAPEL GALLERY

19 May – 15 Aug ust

Yto Barrada, The Snail, 2009/2011

In the second of two artist-curated displays drawn from the extensive Hiscox Collection (the previous curator was Gary Hume), Venezuelan installation artist Sol Calero has focussed on the natural and domestic realms. Expect a vibrant collection, from vast oceanscapes to delicate images of plants, by everyone from Joan Miró to Annie Leibovitz, all of which invite the viewer to think about the significance of their surroundings.

T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

AGENDA 13.indd 19

19

03/05/2021 19:26

HOME & INTERIORS

Art Focus

Cool &

Collected

Georgia Spray has taken the art world by storm with her expertly curated digital gallery Partnership Editions, the go-to for covetable, contemporary pieces W o r d s LU CY SC OV E L L

F

ew people have shaken up the contemporary art world quite like Georgia Spray. In 2017, the curator identified a gaping hole in the market - an easy-to-navigate, go-to place for collectors looking to buy top quality yet affordable artworks – and decided to fill it by launching her own business. And so Partnership Editions, her online destination that’s been dubbed the Net-a-Porter of the art world, was born. “I wanted to create a platform for collectors who weren’t already answered for,” Spray tells me over the phone from her Stoke Newington home. “Collectors, like me and my peers, who are buying or renting their first flat and love art — but don’t want just an Ikea poster.”

The business quickly went from sitting room start-up to art world power player, gathering a host of stylish fans along the way, including Laura Jackson, Pandora Sykes and London-based fashion designer Rejina Pyo, who in 2018 asked Spray to curate her pop-up store in Floral Street. “It was a very organic growth,” Sprays says of the brand’s rapid rise. “The response was very positive from the start.”

It’s no surprise – Spray knows her stuff. Before setting up on her own, she cut her teeth at London’s most lauded institutions, including White Cube and Christie’s, honing her skills in the commercial art market. But something was missing. “I craved more contact with living artists, as well as collectors with budgets more like mine – and something a little less corporate," she admits.

So she joined the Auction Room, a digital auction house with a more creative, entrepreneurial atmosphere. “I was thrown into

20

GEORGIA SPRAY PARTNERSHIP EDITIONS_v3.indd 20

05/05/2021 21:53

21

GEORGIA SPRAY PARTNERSHIP EDITIONS_v3.indd 21

05/05/2021 21:53

THIS PAGE FROM TOP: Snake Head Fritillary by Julianna Byrne; Bookworm Under The Sun by Nathalie Jolivert; Small Acqua Terracotta Painted Vase by Laura Vargas Llanas

the deep end and had to think on my feet. It gave me a real thirst for autonomy.” Then came a stint with the rock’n’roll art dealer Ivor Braka, the number one man in London for collectors of Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon. “I remember him having such a clear sense of what he liked and disliked,” says Spray. “Being headstrong in trusting your instincts is very important in this business.”

It’s an ethos Spray subscribes to at Partnership Editions, where she only features artists that resonate with her.

When I press for details, she laughs.

“It’s difficult to talk about your own taste, but I’ve always been drawn to colour and works on paper - I think that is reflected in the work of our artists.” The heart of the business is making remarkable art accessible to all and, most importantly, breaking down the elitism that surrounds it. Unlike

most galleries, every artwork on the site comes with a price tag, ranging from £200 to £1,000. “Transparency around price is very important to us,” she says.

“Collectors should be able to talk about their budget without feeling intimidated.”

Partnership Editions has made its name by collaborating with some of the most exciting emerging artists working today, among them Venetia Berry, Alexandria Coe and Hester Finch.

There’s a heavier weighting towards women artists on the site, but that’s only because “there’s so much female talent out there at the moment,” says Spray. “Partnership Editions will always be about artists that are brilliant.”

And sourcing new talent, it turns out, follows no set formula. “My house is basically a Partnership Editions gallery,” she muses. “I often get in touch with a new artist because I want to buy their work for my home.”

22

GEORGIA SPRAY PARTNERSHIP EDITIONS_v3.indd 22

05/05/2021 21:53

A R T S & C U LT U R E

“A work of art can give back to you on a cultural level. It can spark a dialogue and inspire you on a daily basis – we’re in need of this now more than ever" In addition to limited-edition print runs, Partnership Editions releases six ‘drops’ of original artworks a year. The ‘drop’ was introduced at the beginning of 2020 as a way of streamlining activity, both online and off, as the business expanded.

“Focusing on a ‘drop’ allows the artists to curate the theme of their own collections and evolve in a way that suits their practice - and not feel like they are on a treadmill,” says Spray. Ten new artists have joined the Partnership Editions family this year. Among them are Haitian-born artist Nathalie Jolivert, who draws inspiration from her childhood island life, Lisbon-based Tiffanie Delune, whose technicolour works focus on heritage, identity and spirituality, and Londoner Laxmi Hussain, whose elegant organic forms, often executed in bold blue ink, fuse elements of abstraction and figuration. “I’m really drawn to her celebratory depictions of the female form and clever use of positive and negative space,” says Spray.

Collaborating with like-minded brands is another way of reaching new audiences. The platform’s collection of exclusive limited-edition prints and original artworks for design and homeware brand MADE.com was a great success, as was their first artistdesigned fashion line. Created in collaboration with BIAS, The Artist’s Slip Dress featured three designs by a trio of the capital’s most talked-about female artists: Venetia Berry, sought-after muralist Julianna Byrne and Peckhambased print-maker Rose Electra Harris.

“It’s about exploring collaborations that feel right – there must be a synergy between artist and brand,” says Spray.

For their first fashion line, “it wasn’t so much about the cut or the shape of the dress, but the design. With each artist’s dress limited to an edition of 100, they’re artworks in their own right.”

Though 2020 was a challenging year for the art market, Partnership Editions seems to have emerged unscathed.

“We saw really strong sales during lockdown,” says Spray. “I think the psychology around buying has changed: people are now more willing to buy lifetime investments online.” Spending more on ‘sight unseen’ (without viewing the item in person) is another byproduct of quarantine. “A work of art can give back to you on a cultural level,” she says. “It can spark a dialogue and inspire you on a daily basis — we’re in need of this now more than ever.”

Lockdown saw Spray splurge herself.

She admits to buying quite a few pieces through the #artistsupportpledge, a brilliant initiative launched by Matthew Burrows in March last year, as well as an artwork by British artist Nettle Grellier. More time at home also allowed for more virtual browsing.

“For inspiration and vintage gems, my go-tos are @Tat.London, @_ceraudo_ and @vinterior,” she reveals.

So, what’s next? “I’m really excited to do more exhibitions again — when the time is right — and relaunch our life drawing classes: they’re such a great way for people to become more familiar with materials and, of course, with the artists themselves.

I’d also love to evolve the business to be able to accommodate sculpture and ceramics.” That’s no mean feat while juggling the needs of a newborn.

“Running your own business is a daily rollercoaster of the expected and the unexpected,” says Spray. “Perseverance and determination are key. But so is flexibility.” All of which Spray has in abundance. It’s little wonder that Partnership Editions is going from strength to strength. partnershipeditions.com

T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

GEORGIA SPRAY PARTNERSHIP EDITIONS_v3.indd 23

THIS PAGE FROM TOP: Moment by Lisa Hardy; Windowsill With Vase by Petra Borner

23

05/05/2021 21:53

HOW TO START AN ART COLLECTION Georgia Spray’s tips for finding your perfect art match Buy what you love

It may sound obvious, but I think it’s really important to trust your gut. With Partnership Editions, you’re looking at buying into artists that you want to live with in your home — and into a piece to cherish rather than to flip. Don’t get me wrong, there can be investment value in buying emerging artists — and that can make it very exciting — but I think the starting point should be that you love what that artist is doing. Buy the piece because it stands alone, not because it matches the cushions!

Work out your own style

It’s important to understand what you love before you buy, so it can be really useful to train your eye first. Follow artists you like on Instagram and play with the ‘Insta saves’ tool: it’s a great way of creating a digital portfolio of things you love. If you scroll through your archive, you’ll likely see patterns: certain shapes, colours and textures will reappear again and again.

The same applies to visiting exhibitions or permanent collections — take home postcards of the works that you love and then work out what you love about them.

Get behind the artist

It can be so rewarding to invest in emerging living artists and chart their development and style. Thanks to social media, this has never been easier. Many now use Instagram as a way of engaging with collectors and fellow artists — so don’t be afraid to reach out and start a conversation. Now you can tour their studio, browse their works and start a conversation at the click of a button. And, don’t forget that buying art by artists still at art school or recent grads is a brilliant way to start your collection. Not only is their work more affordable, but it’s gratifying to know that you’re helping a young artist to develop their career.

Talk about budget THIS PAGE FROM TOP: Moira by Mafalda Vasconcelos; Water Lilies On Pink by Camilla Perkins

It comes as a surprise to many that preliminary conversations with art world professionals are often free of charge. I know there is still more work to do here, but I really believe that transparency

around pricing and budget is important.

There’s often an explanation as to why something costs what it does, so don’t feel embarrassed to ask questions: it might be due to the material it’s made out of, the fact that it’s an original or a print, or even the time it’s taken the artist to complete.

Having frank conversations with gallerists or dealers from the outset will guide your search and ensure you look within budget.

And remember, no budget is too low.

Factor in framing

A good frame will help preserve the work for longer and make it sing. But it can be hard to know where to start. Look to framers or art world professionals for advice on mounts, colours, types of glass (UV protected or Museum), materials and finishes — it’s never a case of one size fits all. If you go down the ‘off the shelf’ route, opt for glass over perspex. We work with a brilliant and trusted framer called Frmd in Clapton — I’d highly recommend them. Alternatively, you can go back to the artist to see what they suggest. Most importantly, though, avoid matching the frame to the wall. The frame should be in conversation with the artwork not the space, as both you and the artwork are likely to move.

Play with the display

A statement gallery wall is a great way to showcase a mix of works in a small space. Laying out your pieces on the floor or mocking up the hang on the wall using pieces of paper or copies of the pictures will help you see what artworks interact well with each other. Discovering connections between pieces that you didn’t know existed can be the best part of the process! By experimenting with the display, you’re also more likely to alight on a balanced composition. Don’t get too het up about spacing and alignment — I actually think a bit of variation in the gaps between works makes for a more organic display. Mixing sizes, media, textures and colours will also bring your own personality to it. Be brave because you can always change things around. partnershipeditions.com

24

GEORGIA SPRAY PARTNERSHIP EDITIONS_v3.indd 24

05/05/2021 21:53

A R T S & C U LT U R E

THIS PAGE FROM TOP: Being XII by Tiffanie Delune; Still Life With Carafe II by Rose Electra Harris; Moira by Mafalda Vasconcelos; Tele by Chica Seal; RIGHT: Split Nude On Purple with Pink Ground by Hester Finch

T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

GEORGIA SPRAY PARTNERSHIP EDITIONS_v3.indd 25

25

05/05/2021 21:53

GIGISTUDIOS.COM

GIGI STUDIOS.indd 4

04/05/2021 23:33

STYLE RENEW & REFRESH

Alexander McQueen SS21 is a lesson in resourcefulness. With the atelier closed during the pandemic, Creative Director Sarah Burton designed the collection at home, while her team repurposed out of stock fabrics from previous seasons to realise her vision, reimagining the leftovers by overprinting and dip-dying them by hand. The result is a conscious collection that not only taps into the zeitgeist, but underscores the importance of renewal and restoring life. alexandermcqueen.com

FASHION OPENER 13.indd 25

04/05/2021 13:16

Fashion Notes

Fashion goes vegan, the future of shopping, and Anya Hindmarch opens Anya Village in Knightsbridge C o m p i l e d b y C H A R LOT T E A DS E T T

IN BLOOM

HIGH LIFE

After months of wearing flats, the party shoe is back for a summer of dancing. From statuesque platforms to all-out sparkling stilettos and vertiginous strappy sandals, it’s the season to kick up your heels.

Secrets Mule 95, £885 aquazzura.com

Drawing on inspiration from Susan Sontag’s novel The Volcano Lover, an 18th century historical romance about Lady Emma Hamilton, her husband Sir William and Lord Nelson, the Erdem SS21 collection sees Erdem Moralioglu’s beloved floral patterns adapted into ethereal organza and muslin dresses, billowy-sleeved shirts and asymmetric embroidered skirts. With Nelsonian nuances woven through, in the form of brocades and military bows, this is Moralioglu at his fantastical best. erdem.com

NOVEL IDEA

London-based jewellery designer Anissa Kermiche creates pieces that celebrate the feminine form. Inspired by an Emily Dickinson poem, the Free the Nip-Pearl earring - handcrafted in the shape of breasts in gold and freshwater pearls - is part of the Period Drama collection, which takes a playful approach to classic works written by women. £398; anissakermiche.com

Summer Trend

WHITE HEAT White is in the spotlight this season with the monochromatic look a recurring feature in the new collections. While it may be summer’s most versatile hue, it’s also symbolic of new beginnings and a stripping back to simplicity. magdabutrym.com

Another Level Village Talk

Anya Hindmarch’s dream comes true this May with the opening of Anya Village.

The retail concept sees a quintet of stores on Pont Street in Knightsbridge including The Plastic Shop, stocking a sustainable collection, The Labelled Shop, dedicated to the art of organisation and a village hall that houses a hair salon and a café.

I Am A Plastic Bag Tote, £795; anyahindmarch.com

This season, Browns is welcoming shoppers back to a brand new four-storey flagship in Mayfair’s Brook Street. In addition to its unique edit, the boutique boasts stateof-the-art interactive tech for a seamless, connected shopping experience. The Club on the top floor is for VIP customers with a beauty bar, tattoo parlour, kitchen and several private personal shopping rooms.

39 Brook Street, Mayfair, W1; brownsfashion.com

28

FASHION NOTES 13.indd 28

05/05/2021 21:56

MAGIC MUSHROOMS Stella McCartney and Hermès are making sustainable strides in the fashion world, by working with biotechnology companies to create pieces using mushroom leather. The vegan, crueltyfree material uses mycelium, part of the renewable fungi root system, to replicate the look and feel of leather.

Hermès has recreated its Victoria bag in Sylvania mycelium leather and plume canvas, available to buy later this year, while Stella McCartney has produced a bustier and utilitarian trousers with Mylo to demonstrate the possibilities for fashion’s future. stellamccartney.com; hermes.com

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FAS H I O N

FASHION NOTES 13.indd 29

Wool jacket, £1,150

Wool jacket, £1,250

29

05/05/2021 21:56

Fashion’s

NEW MOOD EMBRACE THE JOY OF DRESSING UP AGAIN WITH THESE SEASONAL WARDROBE UPDATES ALICE McCALL Blazer £395 farfetch.com ROKSANDA SS21

KALEOS Sunglasses £200 kaleoscollection.com

BEA BONGIASCA Earrings, £295 matchesfashion.com

BOTTEGA VENETA Mules £780 selfridges.com

ALEXANDRA McQUEEN SS21 GANNI Bag £95 ganni.com

CHANEL Sling-backs £710 chanel.com

PRADA Bag £1,810 selfridges.com

16ARLINGTON Dress £795 matchesfashion.com

P I N K P O W E R

MULBERRY Earrings £350 mulberry.com

From baby to millennial through to bright neon, this season’s hottest shade is pink

BOTTEGA VENETA Jacket £1,755 matchesfashion.com VALENTINO Dress £4,600 net-a-porter.com

HALPERN SS21

30

NEW FASHION TRENDS 13_v2.indd 30

05/05/2021 14:20

STYLE

C andy Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette, 2006

Heels

Add some sorbethued sweetness to your shoe collection

P icn ic i n the Pa rk

VERSACE £930, farfetch.com

Floaty florals, ruffles and raffia make for a summer of whimsy and romance ZIMMERMANN Blouse £390 farfetch.com

ALANUI Hat £230 farfetch.com

ATP ATELIER £350, atpatelier.com

RALPH LAUREN Bag £720 farfetch.com GIANVITO ROSSI £555, farfetch.com

JIMMY CHOO £450, net-a-porter.com ZIMMERMANN Dress £1,035 farfetch.com

BOTTEGA VENETA £940, mytheresa.com

CIAO LUCIA Dress £336 modaoperandi.com

CECILIE BAHNSEN x BROWNS Dress £1,690 brownsfashion.com

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FAS H I O N

NEW FASHION TRENDS 13_v2.indd 31

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO £565, ferragamo.com

31

05/05/2021 14:20

ToteBags

STATEMENT EARRINGS

Perfect for picnics or a day at the seaside

Add some drama with a pair of sculptural earrings. The more dazzling the better

ANYA HINDMARCH £695, anyahindmarch.com

PACO RABANNE Earrings £290 brownsfashion.com

TATIANA VERSTRAETEN

MARNI £830, matchesfashion.com

JIMMY CHOO £390 jimmychoo.com

PRETTY BALLERINAS £149 prettyballerinas.co.uk

PR E

RI N

AS

S S2

1

Ballet

TTY

LE BA L

JW ANDERSON £360, mytheresa.com

Pumps

After a hiatus from their Noughties heyday, ballet flats are back and chicer than ever BALLY £390 bally.co.uk

GUCCI £610 gucci.com

PARAVEL £170, matchesfashion.com

32

NEW FASHION TRENDS 13_v2.indd 32

05/05/2021 14:20

STYLE

LUXE TAILORING

Garden Party From delicate, ditsy florals to bold, tropical foliage, fashion has gone full bloom

Revisit ‘90s minimalism with pale neutrals, relaxed tailoring and modern silhouettes giving a pared-back, clean-line spin

ALEXIS Mini Dress £336 modaoperandi.com

GUCCI x KEN SCOTT Bag £2,200, gucci.com STEFERE £8,660 farfetch.com VALENTINO SS21

MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION SS21

DOLCE & GABBANA £1,100 farfetch.com

ZIMMERMANN Swimsuit £285 matchesfashion.com

JIL SANDER Shorts £360 brownsfashion.com

ZIMMERMANN SS21

CHANTECLER £4,472 farfetch.com

OSCAR DE LA RENTA SS21 PROENZA SCHOULER Blazer £1,690 modaoperandi.com

AEYDE Mules £225 brownsfashion.com

CAROLINA HERRERA Dress £2,034 modaoperandi.com

TASAKI Earrings £8,670 farfetch.com

SAINT LAURENT SS21

SAINT LAURENT SS21

ERDEM Skirt £895 matchesfashion.com

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FAS H I O N

NEW FASHION TRENDS 13_v2.indd 33

MARNI Brooch,£280 marni.com

33

05/05/2021 14:37

NET-A-PORTER SS21

Rainbow Brights

Bring instant colorama joie de vivre to your wardrobe with this season’s ode to technicolour

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: GUCCI x KEN SCOTT Trousers, £870, brownsfashion.com; THEODORA WARE Pendant, £320, theodoraware.co.uk THE ELDER STATESMAN Blanket, £1,830, brownsfashion.com; AGR Top, £490, farfetch.com; ASHISH Dress, £1,850, anniesibiza.com; ASHISH Dress, £1,450, anniesibiza.com PIPPA SMALL Ring, £3,200, pippasmall.co.uk; LIBERTY LONDON Scarf, £95, libertylondon.com; SERPUI Clutch Bag, £595, farfetch.com ANYA HINDMARCH Tote Bag, £450, matchesfashion.com; VINTAGE THIERRY MUGLER Jacket, £30,000, annieibiza.com

34

NEW FASHION TRENDS 13_v2.indd 34

05/05/2021 14:21

STYLE

Sunglasses

From oversized retro to cat-eye classics, throw some vintage shade

‘70s GUCCI £335, gucci.com

CHLOE SS21

SAINT LAURENT £315, ysl.com

CELINE £340, mytheresa.com

ROUND

Cat Eye

CHLOE £300, net-a-porter.com

KALEOS £170, kaleoscollection.com

BOTTEGA VENETA £260, matchesfashion.com

SAINT LAURENT SS21

SAINT LAURENT £299, farfetch.com

GIGI STUDIOS £200, gigistudios.com

GIGI STUDIOS SS21

GIGI STUDIOS £175, gigistudios.com

BALENCIAGA £230, farfetch.com

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FAS H I O N

NEW FASHION TRENDS 13_v2.indd 35

35

05/05/2021 17:50

Watch & Jewellery Notes

The latest launches and most covetable new pieces to have on your radar C o m p i l e d b y MING LIU

SIGNATURE CHARM

‘Best Feelings in the World’ is the adorably sweet title of Loquet’s latest charm collection, featuring tiny, 18kt gold text charms – ‘joy’, ‘dream’, ‘hug’ and kiss‘’ are among the choices – that can be mixed and matched with the house’s other delightful designs, and set into personalised lockets to suspend from bracelets and necklaces. loquetlondon.com

BOW BELLE

New Store

Graff ’s latest canvas is the bow – think shimmering, custom-cut pear-shaped diamonds set into each silk-like white gold twist and turn – injecting romance into pendants and studs, as well as super-sized earrings, statement rings and double-strand necklaces tied with ribbon.

Tilda’s Bow Diamond Ring, £11,000 graff.com

FRENCH FANCY

Mayfair’s Burlington Arcade just got a whole lot chicer thanks to new arrival Goossens. The heritage couture jewellery house was a longtime collaborator with Coco Chanel and the London flagship stocks Goossens’ all hand-hammered and patinated designs - highlights include its nature-inspired Talisman collection and Boucle bracelets.

3 Burlington Gardens, Mayfair, W1; goossens-paris.com

ALL THAT GLITTERS

Megawatt diamond watches are a dazzling investment for 2021, and this newly launched yellow gold Oyster Perpetual Lady-DateJust is a real showstopper. Eye-catching wall-to-wall diamonds cover the case, bezel and every facet of the three-link President bracelet – contrasted with a pop of deep black Roman numerals on the face. £105,100, rolex.com

36

WATCH AND JEWELLERY NOTES_13.indd 36

03/05/2021 19:28

WA T C H E S & J E W E L L E R Y

Bookmark This

NET WORTH Founded to highlight creativity and craftsmanship, Once is an expertly edited online fine jewellery emporium – the first of its kind. The site stocks over 30 fine jewellery designers, including the best of British brands such as Theo Fennell, Pippa Small and Jade Jagger – plus a crop of exciting new gen names to have on your radar such as Hannah Martin, Bibi van der Velden, Milamore and Nak Armstrong.

youronce.com

NAK ARMSTRONG Ruched, 20-Karat Recycled Rose Gold & Diamond Petite Hoops, £14,070

NUMBER ONE FAN

Garrard’s original Fanfare collection was inspired by the exquisite fans carried by guests at the opera masquerades that were the height of fashion in London’s theatre district when Garrard opened its first boutique there in 1735.

The latest Fanfare Symphony range celebrates those bygone days with an intoxicating mix of colourful hardstones paired with gemstones – think emeralds with malachite, aquamarine and turquoise, and ultra-chic white diamond on mother-of-pearl.

Fanfare Symphony Emerald Earrings £22,000 garrard.com

EASTERN PROMISE Watches of Switzerland marks a welcome return to its City roots with a new opening in Broadgate, just around the corner from Ludgate Hill, where the company first began trading in 1924. With a dedicated Rolex showroom overlooking bustling Broadgate Circle, the elegant glass-fronted store also houses an Omega boutique alongside eight luxury partners: Audemars Piguet, Tudor, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Hublot and Breitling. For a truly bespoke experience, book in for their ‘By Personal Appointment’ service in their stylish private lounge, where one of their knowledgeable horology experts will make sure you walk away with the perfect purchase.

100 Liverpool Street, Broadgate, EC2

watches-of-switzerland.co.uk

T H E G L O S S A RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / WATC H E S -J E W E L L E R Y

WATCH AND JEWELLERY NOTES_13.indd 37

37

03/05/2021 19:28

Kate Kate Moss has been an avid collector of sparkling gems and antique trinkets ever since she was a teenager. As the supermodel collaborates on her first high jewellery collection with Messika, she reveals the personal stories behind her designs W o r d s SA R A H ROYC E G R E E N S I L L P o r t r a i t N I KO L A I VO N B I S M A R K

KATE MOSS.indd 38

05/05/2021 16:22

KATE MOSS.indd 39

05/05/2021 16:22

40

KATE MOSS.indd 40

05/05/2021 16:22

K

ate Moss is a magpie of the beadiest-eyed variety. As soon as I step into her Soho modelling agency, where our interview takes place, she clocks my earrings and correctly identifies their designer: “I love her stuff.”

“I bought these recently,” she says of her own pair, shaking her head so her new earrings shimmy.

They’re from Alfies Antique Market, where browsing for vintage jewellery is a favourite pastime for the supermodel. “I can't walk in there without going, ‘Ooh, just one little pair...’ ” She is also wearing a diamond pendant by Annina Vogel, a diamond ring she bought in Istanbul, a couple of Indian bangles and, on the third finger of her left hand, a vintage emerald and diamond ring, the one piece that she wears every day.

It was a gift “from the boyfriend” – photographer Nikolai von Bismarck – but it’s categorically not an engagement ring.

“Oh, no, I’m not engaged. It’s more like, I’m in a relationship, I’m committed. I think after you've been married, that finger feels a bit empty. It was an ‘I’m going out with you, and I have a very empty finger, so give me a ring’ kind of present,” she cackles.

In among her vintage treasures are several pieces from her own high jewellery collaboration with Messika. Moss fronted the Parisian brand’s 2019 campaign, alongside Joan Smalls and Sylvia Hoeks, and instantly hit it off with founder Valérie Messika. The decision to collaborate on a collection together was a spontaneous one. When they first met at the Ritz in Paris, Messika immediately noticed how much jewellery Moss was wearing. After asking about the stories behind some of the pieces, she quickly learnt just how obsessed the supermodel was with jewels. On a whim, she asked if she’d be interested in co-designing a collection with her – Moss said yes on the spot. Although she has previously designed collections with the Brazilian jeweller Ara Vartanian, in 2017, and with the French house Fred, in 2011, this partnership is Moss’s most personal, inspired by her own much-loved jewellery.

T H E G L O S S A RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / WATC H E S -J E W E L L E R Y

KATE MOSS.indd 41

41

05/05/2021 16:22

WA T C H E S & J E W E L L E R Y

“I brought a couple of boxes along to our first meeting, and we had a lot of fun looking through it all,” she says.

“Valérie was surprised when she saw that most of my jewellery is antique – she thought I would be more rock ‘n’ roll, and I’m not really. My style is much more bohemian and eclectic.”

That presented a challenge for Messika, whose knife-sharp contemporary diamond designs are worn by the likes of Beyoncé, Bella Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski. In 2017, the brand enlisted Gigi Hadid to cocreate an ‘entry-level’ range that, Moss says, her 18-year-old daughter Lila Grace, now also a model, adores, but the Messika by Kate Moss collection comprises seriously high-value high jewellery, with prices strictly on application, but ranging from five to six figures. Mood boards flew back and forth between the pair, and the whole process took about a year from start to finish. The result is a wide-ranging, eclectic collection comprising 70 pieces that seamlessly fuse Messika’s French-girl cool with Moss’s sexy bohemian flair.

42

An art deco chapter features geometric, baguette-cut diamonds – Moss’s favourite – set in yellowgold hoop earrings, rings, bracelets and chokers. “I have a lot of art deco pieces – I love the decadence of that era. I’m also really into that 1970s, hippy-deluxe kind of decadence.”

Which explains the diamond-set headpiece, with a fringe of baguettes resting between the brows, inspired by an Annie Leibovitz image of Moss taken in 1999.

There’s another nod to her modelling heyday in slinky strands of diamonds, seemingly loosely tied around the neck, finger or wrist, a precious riff on the piece of leather she wore in a 1990s Peter Lindbergh shoot.

“I don’t want to be intimidated by jewellery, I want to feel like it’s part of me. Even my big pieces I’ll wear all the time – I don’t want them to be kept in a box"

KATE MOSS.indd 42

LEFT: Valérie Messika and Kate Moss by Chris Colls. TOP RIGHT: Kate Moss by Chris Colls. ABOVE AND PREVIOUS PAGE: Kate Moss by Marin Laborde.

05/05/2021 16:22

Elsewhere, Messika recreated a 1920s glass bead tasselled necklace in “metres of diamonds – it’s so cool”. Moss’s passion for emeralds parlays into a suite featuring rich green malachite, while her love of Indian jewellery is evident in huge diamond bib necklaces, an earring connected via diamond chains to a nose ring, and a tasselled lapel pin worthy of a maharaja.

Moss first discovered Indian jewellery when she went travelling there aged 22. “I went to Jaipur and Rajasthan; all the girls were covered in incredible jewellery. I started buying loads of it. I bought a beautiful Gucci jewellery roll to store it all in, and when I got home I said to my friend, ‘Wait until you see the jewellery I got in India.’ But it was all gone – stolen. That was pretty depressing – there were things in there that I still think about.”

It’s not her only jewellery-related heartbreak. Her grandmother’s wedding ring – the only ‘heirloom’ she’s ever had – was also stolen, as was a Cartier art deco bracelet she’d bought at SJ Phillips in London, although that one made its way back to her.

“I always take jewellery on holiday – I love wearing it on the beach and in the sea; I think it's so decadent,” she says. ‘I’d taken this bracelet on a boat in Thailand and somebody nicked it.

They sold it to someone in India, who came to London and sold it back to SJ Phillips. It was stamped, so they could identify it as mine; they called me and said, “We’ve got your bracelet,” and gave it back to me.”

She used to visit the antique jewellery specialist every birthday to pick out something new – fortunately von Bismarck, who shot the behind-thescenes images for the Messika by Kate Moss campaign, is a willing benefactor.

“I like going jewellery shopping with Nikolai – he’s into it. I think some men take just as much pleasure in giving jewellery as we do in receiving it” He’s not, though, into jewellery for men. “I like it when men wear jewellery – such as a nice chain – but I can’t imagine Nikolai in it. It’s definitely not his thing.”

Another of Moss’s most precious personal pieces is from her ex,

THE GLOSSARY

–––––Edit–––––

Messika

by Kate Moss Available at messika.com & Selfridges

Lila’s father, Jefferson Hack. “When I gave birth to Lila, Jefferson bought me a diamond eternity ring, which is gorgeous. I’ll give it to her one day. She likes all the girly jewellery; she’s not into antiques yet, so my jewellery is safe, for the moment.”

It seems the majority of her collection was self-gifted – an ethos in line with that of Valérie Messika, whose aim was to create a contemporary diamond jewellery brand not linked to love or marriage. “I buy a lot for myself,” admits Moss. “Sometimes it’s to mark a milestone, but most of the time it’s just when I see something that catches my eye. I’ve got a big rose-cut diamond ring that’s quite a... statement piece,” she laughs. “I bought it as a bit of a celebration, a present to myself because I’d achieved something.”

There’s more common ground in Messika’s mission to make diamonds wearable. Valérie Messika herself is no stranger to teaming high jewellery with jeans or a jumpsuit, and Moss clearly follows suit. “I don’t want to be intimidated by jewellery, I want to feel like it’s part of me. Even my big pieces I’ll wear all the time – I don’t want them to be kept in a box.”

As she coos over the jewellery I’m wearing and we swap favourite designers, it’s clear that this is a genuine obsession for the Croydon-born model.

Where does it stem from? “Not ever having any,” she says quickly. “I was so desperate for a ring when I was little, I’d always leave the smallest Christmas present till last, hoping and praying that it was a jewellery box but it never was. I know, poor me!”

That might explain her preference for wearing her own jewels on the red carpet, although she’s not averse to borrowing from brands – on one condition: “I won’t do it if I have to have a security guard following me. No way.

My friend did it once, and as soon as the party was over, they were standing at the door waiting to get the jewellery off her. It’s so embarrassing. You get into the car and you’ve got nothing on.

That’s awful!” messika.com

T H E G L O S S A RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / WATC H E S -J E W E L L E R Y

KATE MOSS.indd 43

43

05/05/2021 16:23

Classic

INVESTMENT

WATCHES THE TIMELESS TIMEPIECES GUARANTEED TO NEVER GO OUT OF STYLE Wo r d s MING LIU

ROLEX Oyster Perpetual £4,200

As one of the most recognised and covetable brands in the world, Rolex is a byword for quality, reliability and timeless design. This steel Oyster Perpetual 34mm is a modern classic – originally created in 1926 as the first waterproof and dustproof watch – and will always be in fashion, as well as being a wise investment.

watches-of-switzerland.co.uk

44

INVESTMENT WATCHES.indd 44

04/05/2021 23:11

WA T C H E S & J E W E L L E R Y

A LANGE & SÖHNE Little Lange 1 Moon Phase €42,800 Looking for something ultracollectable but under-the-radar?

Storied German watchmaker A Lange & Söhne delivers the finest craft smanship both inside and out. Their Lange 1 model was first introduced in 1994, after the reunification of Germany - this chic 2017 Little Lange features a gorgeous off-centre, guilloche dial.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN Égérie Moon Phase £22,800

alange-soehne.com

HERMÈS Galop d'Hermès £7,720

Horological savoir-faire is a given with Vacheron Constantin, which was founded in 1755 and is one of the oldest watchmakers in the world. Its Égérie collection, which was launched last year, features a contemporary, haute couture-inspired touch with a tapestry dial that recalls the pleating of silk.

Die-hard Hermès fans will immediately recognise this watch’s equestrian nods, from the stirrup-shaped case to the number eight styled like a horse’s bit. Created with the American designer Ini Archibong in 2019, this is an instant collector’s piece.

net-a-porter.com

vacheron-constantin.com

CHOPARD Happy Sport £11,600

PATEK PHILLIPE Nautilus £72,860

When the Happy Sport fi rst burst onto the scene in 1993, its dial set with free-floating ‘dancing’ diamonds, the idea of a women’s sport luxe watch was born. The latest pieces pay homage to that gamechanging moment with 21stcentury updates, including a new movement and 18ct ethically sourced gold.

For years, the Patek Philippe Nautilus – first introduced in 1976 – was easily the most soughtafter watch on the planet.

Now, with its blue dial discontinued, its successor comes with an olive green dial – and already has collectability (and waitlists) written all over it.

patek.com

chopard.com

JAEGER-LE COULTRE Reverso Classic Monoface £4,900

CARTIER Tank Française £17,300

A Cartier Tank is an instant heirloom and the epitome of understated glamour.

Originally created in 1917 as one of the world’s first wristwatches, cultural icons from Jackie Onassis to Audrey Hepburn and Diana, Princess of Wales all wore the Cartier Tank.

Reimagined in 1996 with a metal bracelet, the Tank Française model offers a thoroughly modern update.

Reverso immediately became a watchmaking icon when it arrived on the scene in 1931. Famed for its elegance, engineering and, most notably, its flippable dial, this year marks the design’s 90th birthday proof that classic design only gets better with age.

jaeger-lecoultre.com

cartier.com

T H E G L O S S A RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / WATC H E S -J E W E L L E R Y

INVESTMENT WATCHES.indd 45

45

04/05/2021 23:11

Protect skin against the damaging effects of increased UV exposure and prep it for lighter make-up with Vitamin C Brightening Primer SPF15. Instantly illuminating, this lightweight cream combines the brightening and protecting power of vitamin C with intensely hydrating hyaluronic acid and a trio of moisturising fruit extracts. Use it on its own or before make-up.

1.

Instantly hydrating and plumping, the legendary Serum Repair leaves skin feeling firmer and tighter immediately. Simply add this smoothing, hyaluronic-acid rich super-serum to your skin care routine for immediate radiance, all summer long.

2.

Dr Sebagh #boxfreebeauty

3.

For pillowy-soft lips and to avoid summer dryness, reach for the new multi-active Lip Balm. A single slick delivers intense essential hydration and nourishment thanks to a blend of shea butter and ‘green chemistry’ oils, which also help to minimise the appearance of wrinkles. With a hint of stimulating mint, it’s the perfect finishing touch to your summer skin routine.

Head into spring with fresh, radiant skin, from top-totoe with these expert tips and seasonal heroes. Shop at drsebagh.com and go ‘box-free’ to save up to 50% off and reduce packaging. What better way to glow?

4.

Swap richer moisturisers for something lighter.

An oil-free hydrator, Luminous Glow Cream is perfect for all skin types, giving skin an instant glow whilst delivering longterm ageing-maintenance benefits.

The perfect pick-me-up for summer skin, this multi-tasking cream can used as a primer, mixed with your foundation for added radiance or massaged into the skin to create an intensive treatment mask.

5.

Discover the dry body oil which provides hi-tech skin care benefits and leaves skin with a beautiful golden sparkle. Shimmering Body Oil deeply nourishes and moisturises, whilst instantly soothing the skin (after sun exposure, for example) and providing antioxidant protection. A unique blend of pearlescent pigments leave skin gently bronzed with a touch of glittering gold.

DR SEBAGH 03_21.indd 1

Available in-store and online. #boxfreebeauty offer at drsebagh.com

21/04/2021 16:35

BEAUTY

GLOW GETTER An iridescent highlighter is a prerequisite for the soft, ethereal glow we all want this summer. Chanel’s Baume Essential Multi-Use Glow Stick (£35) melts seamlessly onto skin, giving a long-lasting pearlescent finish. Available in six shades, the retractable highlighter enables precise application on areas of the face that catch the light – cheekbones, bridge of nose, Cupid’s bow – to create a subtle glimmering effect that sculpts the face. chanel.com

BEAUTY OPENER_13.indd 47

04/05/2021 13:14

Beauty Notes

The renaissance of lips, a natural at-home manicure & beauty sleep in a bottle C o m p i l e d b y C H A R LOT T E A DS E T T

Drift Away

Unsurprisingly, insomnia and anxiety have been a collective issue this past year, but Dreem Distillery’s new CBD oil is here to help. With a high dose of 2400mg broad spectrum CBD combined with the brand’s enhanced Super Terpene Blend, the peppermint-flavoured oil promises to induce a sleepy state within 30 minutes. £128; dreemdistillery.co.uk

Lip Service

Revered French skincare brand Dr Sebagh has applied its specialisation in high-performance formulas to lip care with a new multi-active balm that revitalises and rejuvenates. Three years in the making, this blend of shea butter and vegetable oils delivers intense hydration and nourishment leaving lips pillowy soft. £35; drsebagh.com

Ace of Base

GOOD FOUNDATIONS The new foundation hybrids double up as both a makeup and skincare saviour. Givenchy Prisme Libre Skin-Caring Glow Foundation, available in 30 shades, is made of 90% skincare ingredients and 97% natural origin ingredients, ensuring a hydrated and luminous look. £40; givenchybeauty.com

Nail It

French brand Manucurist has nailed the at-home mani with Green Flash, the first non-toxic gel polish on the market that is so gentle you can remove it like ordinary varnish. e easy-to-use, threestep kit includes an LED lamp and gives a professional-finish in less than 20 minutes, with nails lasting up to ten days.

From £69; uk.manucurist.com

48

BEAUTY NOTES 13.indd 48

04/05/2021 13:13

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Lipstick Returns

F ul l Sheen A head S kin

DEEP

Lipsticks are making a comeback this season with a wave of innovative formulas designed to hydrate and moisturise, in transformative shades for every skin tone. These hard-working new-generation lipsticks include Guerlain KissKiss Shine Bloom (£31), which comes in 20 floral-inspired hues, and Bobbi Brown Crushed Shine Jelly Stick (£25), available in six colours – both are packed with hyaluronic acid and naturally-derived ingredients to plump and smooth; while Chanel Rouge Coco Bloom (£33), which comes in 20 bold shades, contains micro-droplets of oils which hatch on the lip surface for incredible shine and lasts for 8 hours. Welcome to the future of lipstick. guerlain.com; bobbibrown.co.uk; chanel.com

111 Skin, founded by celebrated Harley Street cosmetic surgeon Dr Yannis Alexandrides and Eva Alexandrides, is a go-to skincare brand for its results-driven, scientist-developed formulas. The latest innovation is the Concentrates collection – a quintet of 7-day clincial-strength treatments to offer customised skincare at home. Housed in sealed glass vials to protect against oxidation or degradation, each one targets different skincare issues from dull and lacklustre to dry and dehydrated. The Y Theorem Concentrate (above) addresses stressed and inflamed complexions and works to repair and nourish the epidermal barrier through a gentle blend of active ingredients including the NAC Y2 complex, which is packed full of antioxidant properties.

From £125; 111skin.co.uk

Main image Bobbi Brown. Left to right: Bobbi Brown, Chanel, Guerlain

Eco Innovator

BRIGHT IDEA REN has been flying the flag for sustainably-sourced, plant-derived skincare since 2000, and has pledged to produce only planet-friendly packaging by 2025. e clean beauty brand has just launched a three-step Glow Edit by Dr Ateh Jewel (£80) consisting of the Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic, Overnight Glow Dark Spot Sleeping Cream and Brightening Dark Circle Eye Cream, all packed with glow-giving ingredients. Cult favourite the Daily AHA Tonic has also had a limited-edition makeover; while still a combination of brightening AHAs and BHAs, it is now infused with organic cucumber, known for its antioxidant properties (£28).

renskincare.com

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

BEAUTY NOTES 13.indd 49

49

04/05/2021 13:13

My Beauty Glossary

The NEW

SKINCARE Rules

With life beginning to return to normal, Alessandra Steinherr reflects on how the past year has changed the world of beauty and shares her tried-and-tested products to refresh and reinvigorate your skincare regimen P o r t r a i t SA R A H B ROW N

T

he past year has changed the world of beauty in many ways, not just in how we buy our products but what we expect from them, too. Our skincare needs have evolved. Let’s not underestimate the stress we’ve all been under. Just as external factors like pollution and sunlight damage the complexion, anxiety can also amplify skin issues. For someone who is prone to blemishes, it can exacerbate breakouts; if you’re prone to dryness, it intensifies dehydration. Same goes for flushing.

Wearing a face covering, while of course essential, has also had a detrimental effect, causing friction on the skin and damaging the all-important skin barrier, leaving it less able to do its job of locking in moisture and keeping skin hydrated. Skin, as a result, is flaky and dry. Wearing a mask also creates a damp, moist environment, which in turn exacerbates bacterial proliferation and can cause blemishes.

Conversely, not wearing a mask also has its skincare issues. WFH means we’ve never been indoors and on a screen so much. Our glow has gone after a long winter, while the blue light emitted from smartphones and laptops is akin to pollution. And we’ve all become a lot more self-critical of our appearance, as we constantly stare at our reflection during hours of Zoom meetings.

Now that life is beginning to return to normal, it’s an opportunity to address the skin issues that lockdown has thrown up with these beauty saviours, all of which will work harder than ever to help get you back on track.

Dryness

Whether you have genetically dry skin, it’s deeply dehydrated from spending the past few months indoors, surrounded by artificial heat, or irritated from the friction caused by wearing a mask, a flaky, itchy complexion needs to be addressed in your skincare regimen.

The first thing to remember is to be mindful of too many harsh ingredients in your products, as these may cause further irritation. Stay away from exfoliants, which can leave skin drier than before; likewise, retinoids and retinols, while salicylic acid, which benefits oily, acne-prone complexions, can dry the skin out further.

Instead, opt for gentle, nourishing products. Use a cleanser like The Nue Co: The Barrier Culture Cleanser (£30) – it’s soap-free, sulphate-free, and helps repair and maintain the skin barrier without that tight and dry feeling when you cleanse, leaving it feeling soothed and conditioned instead.

A good quality moisturiser is your first line of defence. The temptation is to pile on layers of heavy moisturiser, but what you really need is a product that is rich in the right ingredients – deeply-hydrating humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, occlusives which seal in moisture and ceramides that repair the skin’s protective barrier.

A hero moisturiser is the Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream – Upgrade (£65). They’ve just reformulated it – it’s now vegan - but it is as nourishing as ever. The formula still has its repairing TFC8 (Trigger Factor Complex)

50

ALEX STEINHERR MASKNE.indd 50

05/05/2021 17:41

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Alex's DRYNESS Heroes

for cellular renewal, as well as evening primrose oil and squalane to improve moisture retention, super-conditioning vitamin E and hyaluronic acid, all of which leave skin feeling deeply hydrated, supple and smooth.

When your skin is parched, a super rich mask can be both comforting and healing. Seed to Skin: Manuka Nutri-Mask (£120) is gorgeous; it contains 55% manuka honey, known for its repairing, calming and antibacterial properties, while the ferulic acid is a powerful antioxidant to improve the skin barrier function.

For more of a lightweight mask, Marie Reynolds has just launched the multi-purpose The Butter Balm (£48) – which is packed with prebiotics, vitamins and omegas to fight free radicals and boost skin’s natural defences, as well as highlymoisturising natural butters. It can be used either as an intensive overnight mask, a 15-minute face mask or as a healing balm, thanks to its anti-bacterial and antiinflammatory properties.

If you’re on the go, the Trish McEvoy The Beauty Booster Moisture Stick (£29) is lovely. It’s a multipurpose balm that you can roll on dry patches of skin or your lips, so it’s handy if your face covering is causing irritation. It has different lipids in it – including chaulmoogra, oat and meadow seed oil – that act as an instant soother and leave skin feeling nourished.

Blemishes

If you’re prone to blemishes, wearing a face covering can exacerbate the problem. The excess humidity and warmth created when we breathe in and out in our mask creates a damp, humid environment, resulting in bacterial proliferation on the skin and clogged pores.

There's a misconception that when you have blemishes you need to be aggressive with the skin, perhaps because you’re seeing it as something

dirty. But really the key to a clear complexion is bringing the skin back into balance and to do this, you need a dedicated and consistent skincare routine that’s not too complicated.

Though it goes without saying that if you have blemish-prone skin and it’s hormonal, obviously you need to address it with a doctor, likewise if you’re on prescription for acne.

While many products for breakouts are aimed at teenagers, more mature skin needs something that not only fights oiliness but is anti-aging too. Filorga Age-Purify Gel Cleanser (£18.20) is a lightweight formula combining zinc, which helps regulate sebum and purify the skin, with a blend of acids and peptides that can speed up collagen and elastin production.

Aurelia Skincare The Probiotic Concentrate (£95) is a serum for all skin types, and will help to bring the complexion back into balance.

While the probiotics boost collagen and activate the skin’s natural repair process, the hyaluronic acid brings moisture to the skin’s surface, leaving it smooth, hydrated and more radiant.

Skinceuticals SilyMarin CF (£145) is also a serum, albeit one formulated specifically for oily and blemishprone skin which contains L-ascorbic acid – a pure Vitamin C antioxidant that helps control sebum and prevent breakouts, as well as improve the appearance of blemishes.

A brand that specifically develops products for breakouts and helps skin stay clear is Zitsticka. The Killa Kit (£27) is a really clever product; it contains eight patches with micro darts which, when you pop the patch onto the blemish, self-dissolve into the inflamed area to speed up healing.

Another effective product to clear blemishes is Pietro Simone BioPerfector Mask (£160). Azelaic acid rebalances and refines skin texture, as well as drying out the blemishes, while multi-peptides take care of redness and hydrate, and chamomile soothes the complexion.

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

ALEX STEINHERR MASKNE.indd 51

Alex's BLEMISH Heroes

51

05/05/2021 17:41

FOOD & DRINK

Dullness

We all want radiant skin, but spending so much time indoors this past year in lockdown can result in dullness, as we don’t get the oxygenation we need for that glowy, dewy complexion. Oxygen is, after all, vital for skin health; it is antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and stimulates collagen production.

Another reason for a dull, tired, uneven skin tone might be an emotional one – you’re feeling fed up and so have let your skincare routine slide. You’re perhaps not cleansing, exfoliating or massaging your face as you should, and the lack of microcirculation is taking its toll.

To instantly give skin an instant boost, try Charlotte Tilbury Super Radiance Resurfacing Facial (£52), a 20-minute resurfacing, brightening, hydrating treatment that you use once a week. The combination of powerful ingredients includes a blend of acids (AHA CHA PHA) and prickly pear extract which exfoliate and stimulate collagen. And then you’ve got hyaluronic and polyglutamic acid which plumps the skin.

Révive Perfectif Even Skin Tone Serum (£230) is a mega brightening serum for daily use to even skin tone and give smooth, luminous results.

It also has a dark spot corrector action, working effectively on hyperpigmentation which can create that dull effect on the skin.

For glow-in-a-jar, look no further than By Terry Hyaluronic Global Face Cream (£60). It’s formulated with eight different hyaluronic acids, some of which give instant plumpness while others penetrate deeper to hydrate. It is also 5% niacinamide, a hero ingredient that has a brightening effect on the skin and squalane, which is a brilliant emollient. But the main thing is that it has a very lightweight gel texture so you immediately look glowing and fresh.

Estee Lauder Perfectionist Pro Intense Brightening Essence Ampoule (£96) comes as a set of four vials, each one is for seven

Alex's DULLNESS Heroes

days’ use, covering the entire skin regeneration cycle of 28 days.

This ultralight treatment is for skin that needs to be soothed, with Vitamin C, Vitamin E and licorice extract calming, brightening and smoothing.

Last but by no means least, dull skin will shine with Cle de Peau Beauté's Precious Gold Vitality Mask (£250).

It’s very indulgent as it contains 24-carat gold which is known for its anti-inflammatory properties and supports the skin’s collagen production. Apply it with a brush for instant brightening radiance.

Eyes

When it comes to our beauty routine, the eye area needs extra attention, especially now that we are wearing face coverings and the eyes have come into focus like never before. It is, after all, the thinnest skin on the face with no oil glands and therefore prone to dryness.

If we’re not getting enough sleep, it can result in eye bags, dark circles and fine lines. Likewise if we’re not eating well, or are dehydrated or stressed; eyes are also the first to show signs of ageing. Personally, I have always been a huge fan of eye cream and eye masks for brightening up the under-eye area, smoothing skin and reducing puffiness. You get that instant gratification as soon as you hit upon the right product.

Target signs of fatigue, such as puffiness and dark circles, with MZ Skin Brightening and Hydrating Eye Ampoules (£155), a fiveday ampoule programme. The lightweight formula is packed with power ingredients – peptides, antioxidants and hydrators will brighten and plump the skin.

Essentially, it’s a dedicated eye bootcamp – a real innovation.

For an eye all-rounder, Guerlain Abeille Royale Eye R Repair Serum (£90) is composed of 94% naturally

52

ALEX STEINHERR MASKNE.indd 52

05/05/2021 17:41

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Alex's EYE Heroes

derived ingredients, including honeys and royal jelly which help the skin around the eyes repair.

It also has tensing polymers which give an instant lifting, eye-opening effect, albeit temporary. I love the Gold Drop applicator, which enables you to massage the skin, leaving it firmer too.

Irene Forte Age Defying Almond Eye Cream (£88) is a light textured veganfriendly cream that contains omegarich sweet almond, olive and avocado oils to soothe and moisturise. The Aloe Vera calms, while niacinamide brightens and Panthenol B5 and hyaluronic acid retain moisture for refreshing eye contours.

Intensive in its anti-aging properties, Natura Bisse Inhibit Retinol Eye Lift (£128) is specifically designed to target expression lines.

It is packed with encapsulated retinol, which smoothes wrinkles. You can also use it on the upper eyelids for a temporary lift (I wouldn’t use it on the mobile eyelids, but on the bone), as it addresses lack of tension and drooping. Massage in with the ceramic applicator to help eliminate dark circles and bags, which are just fluid retention.

If you want to revitalise dull, tired eyes, and look like you’ve had a good night’s sleep, try an eye mask.

The Shiseido Vital Perfection Uplifting and Firming Express Eye Mask (£68) focuses on the broader eye area, its combination of advanced technology and retinol rejuvenating and replenishing skin. Use once or twice a week at the end of your skincare regimen for a firmer, brighter eye area.

For a handy eye saviour, Retrouvé Revitalizing Eye Concentrate (£320) is a unique water-less formula that feels like a rich balm and glides easily across the skin. It’s deeply nourishing with squalane and antioxidant Retinyl Palmitate (a Vitamin A derivative), making it perfect for alleviating dryness and regenerating sun-damaged skin.

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

ALEX STEINHERR MASKNE.indd 53

Tool Kit

These instruments will maximise the performance of skincare actives without comprimising your skin barrier

1 2 3 4

5 1. NURSE JAMIE Eyeonix Eye Massaging Beauty Tool, £80, cultbeauty.co.uk; 2. OSMOSIS Epic Skin Tool, £144.50, mariereynoldslondon.com; 3. RÉVIVE RéVolve Contouring Massage Roller, £115, harveynichols.com; 4. MARIE REYNOLDS Facial Copper Wand, £80,; mariereynoldslondon.com; 5. LANSHIN Pro Gua Sha Tool in Nephrite Jade, £115, net-a-porter.com

53

05/05/2021 17:41

Discover more at 111skin.co.uk

111SKIN 03_21.indd 1

03/05/2021 15:05

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

My Beauty Glossary

Golden Wonders Contributing Beauty Director Alessandra Steinherr shares her favourite bronzers, tints and potions for a sun-kissed glow

CHANEL

ESTEE LAUDER

Les Beiges Bronzing Creme, £43 This iconic bronzer has a velvety, gel-like texture that gives a natural luminosity without any shimmer. This June sees the launch of the deepest shade yet, perfect for darker complexions.

Bronze Goddess Creme de Soleil Decadent Smoothing Body Creme, £38 Super nourishing thanks to the blend of oils, including apricot kernel and olive oil, this lightweight but luxurious body cream boasts blurring optics to give skin an instant toned, healthy-looking glow.

PAI

The Impossible Glow Bronzing Drops, £29 My current obsession; infused with hyaluronic acid, these drops may look intense in the bottle, but blend out beautifully to give a sunkissed luminescence to any skin type and tone.

TOM FORD

VITA LIBERATA

GUERLAIN

FENTY BEAUTY

DR SEBAGH

Cream and Powder Eye Colour, Naked Bronze, £51 This dual eye colour set comes with a cream base and a glimmering powder that can be mixed to create multiple looks. Long-wearing and crease-resistant, it’s the only shadow you need this summer.

Heavenly Elixir Advanced Tinted Tanning Elixir, £34 With a 100% vegan formula, this face and body tanner is deeply hydrating, using encapsulated DHA technology and nourishing ingredients to lock in moisture while building a natural glow.

Terracotta The Bronzing Powder, £39 This new version of the beloved bronzing powder uses a formula with 96% naturally derived ingredients, including pigments and shimmers, that easily blend into the skin for a radiant effect.

Body Sauce Body Luminizing Tint, £40 Available in seven shades, this tinted gel-cream moisturiser is summer-radiance in a bottle, giving buildable and blendable coverage. It doesn’t leave any stickiness and really stays put.

Self-Tanning Drops, £35 Simply mix a few drops with a moisturiser for a golden hue that develops in a few hours and lasts for 2-3 days. The formula contains fractionated HEV Melanin that shields the skin from oxidative stress caused by blue light.

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

ALEX BRONZERS.indd 55

55

04/05/2021 13:10

TheGlossary_Advert_FloralStreet(fullpage).indd 1 CLEAN WAVES 03_21.indd 1

10/09/2020 29/04/2021 18:24 13:36

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

A scents of

SPRING THIS SEASON’S NEW FRAGRANCES HIT ALL THE RIGHT NOTES C o m p i l e d b y C H A R LOT T E A DS E T T

CREED

Acqua Originale

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £220 Inspired by master perfumer Olivier Creed’s love of travel, the new collection of unisex Acqua Originale perfumes are an intoxicating blend of opulent ingredients, presented in an elegant Art Deco bottle. In addition to the house’s classic Vétiver Géranium and Iris Tubéreuse, the collection now includes three new creations. The first, Citrus Bigarrade, is designed to capture the Mediterranean sun with lemon and mandarin layered with white pepper and ginger. Zeste Mandarin is similarly citrusy, immediately transporting you to Sicily with a blend of lemons, patchouli flowers and orange blossom. Finally, Green Neroli offers a herbaceous, aromatic fragrance, with lemon and orange warmed with hints of tarragon. creed.com T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

FRAGRANCES 13.indd 57

57

05/05/2021 21:57

Spring Scents ACQUA DI PARMA

Bergamotto Di Calabria

Eau de Toile e, 100ml, £124 Capturing the essence of the Calabrian bergamot is at the heart of this limitededition fragrance, which is created using centuries-old artisan techniques, and presented in a refillable hand-poured porcelain bottle. Notes of mandarin, orange and grapefruit play to the bergamot’s accents, while galbanum and geranium strike a green, floral chord. acquadiparma.com

D.S. & DURGA

St. Vetyver

Eau de Parfum, 50ml, £148 Taking inspiration from the scents of the Caribbean, perfumer David Seth Moltz has created an amber, woody fragrance that takes the pure base accord of Haitian Vetyver and combines it with sweet notes of cane plant and spiced rum. Fresh island grass and tropical citrus further transport you to exotic, sun-drenched climes. dsanddurga.com

DIPTYQUE

Orphéon

Eau de Parfum, 75ml, £125 To celebrate Diptyque’s 60th anniversary, Orphéon is inspired by the infamous Saint-Germain’s jazz club where the parfumerie’s founders often met up for allnighters in the Sixties. It’s woody, floral and spicy all at once, blending together tonka bean, cedar, jasmine and juniper berries to evoke wisps of tobacco and the scent of make-up powder. diptyqueparis.com

BYREDO

CHRISTIAN DIOR

Tobacolor

Fragrance, 125ml, £220 Rich, powerful and sensual, this reimagination of the classic ‘tobacco’ scent is an oriental blend of smoky hookah embers contradicted with fresh, fruity notes of plum and peach and the golden sweetness of honey. dior.com

Mixed Emotions

Eau de Parfum, 50ml, £122 Designed to capture the current state of mind and conflicting feelings that have come with a year of lockdowns and political unrest, Byredo’s latest fragrance is zeitgeist in a bottle. Comforting notes of maté, birch, cassis and black tea are contrasted with the sharp sweetness of cassis and violet leaf to create an intriguing aroma. byredo.com

58

FRAGRANCES 13.indd 58

05/05/2021 21:57

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

ESCENTRIC MOLECULES

Molecule 01+

Eau de Toile e, 100ml, £95 each In 2006, rule-breaking perfumer Geza Scheon released Molecule 01, designed to be the most minimal fragrance on the market. The warm, cosy unisex fragrance was an olfactory hit. This season sees a new trio, with a single ingredient added to Molecule 01’s velvety-woody basenote – patchouli, iris and mandarin – to give a new dimension to the cult classic. libertylondon.com

JO MALONE

Blossoms Collection

Red Hibiscus Cologne Intense, 100ml, £134, Yellow Hibiscus Cologne Intense, 100ml, £105 Say aloha to two new Hibiscus colognes inspired by the tropical Hawaiian islands that join Jo Malone’s Blossoms Collection. A heady layer of Jasmine Sambac is met with mandarin, ylang ylang and warming vanilla in Red Hibiscus, while Yellow Hibiscus bursts with a sparkling, floral top note, underpinned by rose and white musk. jomalone.co.uk

LOUIS VUITTON

On The Beach

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £200 The French Maison has encapsulated lazy days on sun-kissed beaches with heart notes of Yuzu – a rare citrus fruit from Japan – giving a bright, fresh burst that’s tempered with neroli and aromatic herbs. selfridges.com

GUERLAIN

Nettare Di Sole + Flora Salvaggia

Eau de Toile e, 125ml, £91 The latest fragrances in the Aqua Allegoria collection blend rich floral scents with unexpected notes. Nettare Di Sole evokes honey made from white flowers blended with magnolia, rose and jasmine, while Flora Salvaggia embodies spring meadows, with wild flowers setting the tone, finishing with powdery iris and violet. guerlain.com

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

FRAGRANCES 13.indd 59

59

05/05/2021 21:58

WOMANS AID.indd03_21.indd 1 FLORAL STREET 1

02/10/2020 29/04/2021 18:45 13:38

A PLACE IN THE SUN Lemon and olive trees in dappled sunlight, the scent of lavender and jasmine in the air… Not the Mediterranean, but The Garden at The Corinthia hotel in SW1, surely one of London’s best kept alfresco secrets. This undiscovered oasis is the perfect spot for sipping ice cold rosé and sampling André Garrett’s summer menu of seafood and raw salads – and don’t miss Tom Kerridge’s pop-up on the mezzanine level, which is open until May 16. corinthia.com

FOOD OPENER 13.indd 73

04/05/2021 13:19

Tasting Notes The new openings and

places to know across the capital this season

MADE IN CHELSEA From the team behind popular Notting Hill spot Uli comes Huŏ, a stylish neighbourhood restaurant in Chelsea inspired by the food of China and Southeast Asia. On the menu, vibrant sharing dishes such as Dover sole with asparagus, garlic and chilli and wok-fried daikon cakes with bean sprouts.

9 Park Walk, Chelsea, SW10 huolondon.com

C o m p i l e d b y H I L A RY A R M ST RO N G

MANHATTAN TRANSFER

Tokyo Nights

Soho meets Shinjuku at Golden Gai, the new cocktail bar from the team behind Japanese-Italian hybrid Angelina in Dalston. Golden Gai had barely shaken its first matcha sour before lockdown struck last December; it reopened in April with 60 new seats. Don’t skip the taleggio, truffle soy and caviar piadina.

16A D’Arblay Street, Soho, W1 goldengai.london

New Opening

FRENCH EXCHANGE Bienvenue à Londres, Cyril Lignac, the celebrated French chef whose Bar des Prés arrives in Mayfair on May 22nd. A hotly anticipated sister site to its chic St Germain counterpart, the two-floor restaurant will serve Asian-influenced French plates such as scallops caramelised with miso, crab galette with avocado, as well as the Pierre Hermé-trained chef ’s famous pain perdu.

16 Albemarle Street, Mayfair, W1 bardespres.com

An early frontrunner for newcomer of the year, the long-awaited NoMad London finally opens its doors in the former Bow Street Magistrates’ Court in Covent Garden on May 25th. Expectations are high for this hip hotel (the first European property for New York’s Sydell Group) with its trio of eating and drinking spots – a pub Side Hustle, cocktail lounge Common Decency, and the centrepiece, its glamorous, glass-ceilinged NoMad Restaurant and Bar. 28 Bow Street, Covent Garden, WC2 thenomadhotel.com

ECO CHIC

ON A ROLL

Sushi Sumi, the second restaurant from Michelin-starred sushi master Endo Kazutoshi, has been something of a west London secret since it opened for delivery-only late last year. From May 17th, the Westbourne Grove site opens fully, with a menu of pristine sushi, sashimi and such luxurious dishes as wagyu donburi with smoked egg yolk.

157 Westbourne Grove, W11 sushisumi.com

Pioneering wild food restaurant Native may have relocated to Osea Island in Essex, but it has not left London behind. On May 17th, it launches Native at Browns at the fashion retailer’s new Brook Street flagship. It’s Browns first in-store restaurant and the focus is on sustainability: expect natural wines, foraged cocktails, plates of roasted onion tarte tatin and poached brill with seaweed beurre blanc alongside small plates served in the 40-cover courtyard.

39 Brook Street, Mayfair, W1 nativerestaurant.co.uk

62

FOOD NOTES 13.indd 62

05/05/2021 21:59

FOOD & DRINK

LIFE’S A BEACH

Buckets and spades at the ready, the Great British seaside is coming to London this season as The Berkeley Hotel opens its outdoor terrace complete with five candy-striped beach huts.

Open daily from 7.30am, the bookable beach huts are perfect for parties of six, serving everything from ‘seaside Benedicts’ to dressed crab, lobster rolls, freshly shucked oysters and gourmet ‘99’ ice creams.

Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, SW1 the-berkeley.co.uk

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FO O D - D R I N K

FOOD NOTES 13.indd 63

63

05/05/2021 21:59

Restaurant R E V I E W S

Haute Cuisine at Home From seasonal Italian classics to indulgent comfort food, Hilary Armstrong samples London’s finest Michelin-starred home deliveries

Simon Rogan

I

AT

HOME

have had meals at Simon Rogan restaurants – Aulis, Roganic and the two Michelin star L’Enclume in the Lake District – that have run into three or four hours and three or four times that many courses. So, it was with some trepidation that I unboxed my delivery from Simon Rogan at home.

Would I even have the tableware – never mind the skills – to execute such gastronomy?

In fact, Rogan’s nationwide home delivery concept sticks to an eminently achievable three courses at a very approachable £45 (optional extras include cheese and wine flights). This is not to be a note-perfect recreation of the L’Enclume experience – I suspect it borrows from his more casual restaurant Rogan & Co – but a mini dinner party à deux, elevated by Rogan’s chefs, skills and suppliers. It’s the next best thing to having a private chef.

Before we even begin, we demolish the flaky, buttery Parker House rolls and homemade butter. Lockdown may have made bakers of us all, but this dinky little restaurant loaf beats my best efforts. Ham hock terrine to start is Rogan’s modern British take on a classic French recipe and a lesson in how to plate like a pro. On its own, it looks tasty, but once we’ve piped on dozens of mustard emulsion dots – not as easy as it looks – and garnished it with pickled vegetables, micro herbs and a drizzle of verdant celery oil, it would not look out of place in a Michelin star restaurant. Similarly, the main course of guinea fowl with roasted hen of the wood mushrooms involves far more components than I

would ordinarily combine: pine, morels, pickled walnuts, chervil… I rarely – OK, never have these ingredients to hand.

There are lots of individual sachets to snip open in succession, but all are numbered and, remarkably, I don’t forget anything.

Dessert could not be simpler: a sunny yellow verbena posset served with bee pollen, blackberries and camomile cake added by me at the end. I feel so proud of my kitchen prowess, I forget I’ve done practically nothing. Note: meals change weekly and are produced in limited editions, so do book ahead.

PRICE: From £45 for two DELIVERY: Nationwide simonroganathome.co.uk

64

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 13.indd 64

04/05/2021 13:35

FOOD & DRINK

GYMKHANA

M

y final meal before the first lockdown last March was at the new look Gymkhana in Mayfair, which has just reopened following a kitchen fire. It was a memorable lunch, not only for the people-watching (there are always a few ‘faces’ at Gymkhana) and the Michelin star Indian food, but also for the fact my friend and I shared food from the same plate, if you can imagine such a thing now.

JKS Restaurants, the innovative restaurant group behind Gymkhana and other restaurants as diverse as Bao and Lyle’s, have proved themselves adaptive this last year, pivoting quickly to home delivery.

Ambassador General Store, their online shop, brings together three of their Indian restaurants: Brigadiers, Trishna and Gymkhana.

Some readymade parcels are available such as a Gymkhana feasting box for four, £180 (including drinks and playlist), and a Trishna seafood box for two, £80. I take a pick and mix approach, however, sticking largely to Gymkhana signatures such as wild

muntjac biryani, £25, and kid goat keema pao with crunchy shoestring fries, £16, but taking a detour to Trishna for an order of garlic butter pepper crab, £22.50 (I can’t resist).

Everything is beautifully packaged and labelled, with instructions cards and colour photos to follow.

I’m given a few basic tasks: rolling naans, grilling marinated chicken thighs for the chicken butter masala; and chopping an onion to garnish the warm keema buns. My crowning achievement, however, is the biryani, its layers of braised venison shank and fragrant basmati baked in a bread tin in the absence of a clay pot. Even though I nearly forget the fresh mint leaves and fried onions (I quickly stuff them under the puff pastry towards the end of cooking), I can safely say it’s one of the most impressive things ‘I’ have ever made. It’s not quite as easy as ordering an Indian takeaway, but it’s worth the extra effort. This is a concept that will thrive long after the pandemic.

PRICE: From £105 for four DELIVERY: Nationwide ambassadorgeneralstore.com

RIVER CAFE I ’d never really understood the whole internet ‘unboxing’ trend until I received a home delivery from the River Café’s new online shop Everything is so perfectly parcelled up, from the bright blue tissue paper (the colour of the first cookbook) to the neon pink stickers (the colour of the restaurant’s wood-fired oven), that I want everyone to see it.

Five whole artichokes alla romana, a thick slab of freshly baked focaccia, a perfect little pear and almond tart… every single component elicits a gasp of pleasure.

‘Box Set One’, £140, one of six menus, centres around two huge tranches of turbot, ready seasoned, cooked and garnished with fresh herbs. There’s nothing left for me to do but heat it through for 20 minutes in a hot oven. The rest, a large milky mozzarella di bufala with smashed chickpeas and roasted pumpkin and sides of Datterini tomatoes and braised spinach (all packaged in environmentally friendly cardboard or reusable glass jars) can be served at room temperature. The meal isn't inexpensive – the

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FO O D - D R I N K

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 13.indd 65

River Café never is – but the ingredients are first class and the dishes are just as generous as they are at the restaurant (so much so, we wonder whether our meal for two is intended for four). The restaurant’s rustic style translates beautifully to a domestic setting: one doesn’t need advanced plating skills or avant-garde tableware to make this food shine. Exceptional produce speaks for itself. It’s useful to know one can now have their ingredients as well as individual dishes and wines delivered across the country.

It may not quite equal the thrill of securing a coveted Sunday lunch slot on the River Café terrace but your own patio table, set with bowls of crab linguine, some beautiful borlotti beans, San Daniele ham and a bottle of chilled Vermentino will come a very close second. We can’t recreate the buzz, but we can recreate the Bellinis.

Cin cin!

PRICE: From £100 to £160 for two to four people.

DELIVERY: Nationwide (selected items only available within M25) shoptherivercafe.co.uk

65

04/05/2021 13:35

H I D E M

ichelin star restaurant Hide, helmed by Ollie Dabbous, is one part of a Mayfair mini empire comprising two restaurants, a bar, the wine boutique Hedonism and a new café on Mount Street. Hide has drawn on the connectivity between the sites to create a versatile online delivery arm in Hide at Home that has something for everyone. I struggle to think of anything a hungry foodie could want but not find on the site, from kombucha to limited edition Jacques Selosse Champagne, pains au chocolat, to penne pasta, avo toast to lobster rolls and tins of caviar. The delivery service doesn’t attempt to recreate the restaurant experience; rather, it conveys its unapologetically extravagant spirit.

The threecourse weekend set menu, £68, available for home delivery across London, changes weekly.

Indulgent American comfort food must have been on Dabbous’

mind the week we order, for our menu includes macaroni cheese enriched with copious black tru�le, fried corn-fed chicken and baked potato wedges, gem lettuce with herby green dressing and carrot cake semifreddo. It survives the journey very well. A quick whizz in the microwave is all it takes for the mac ‘n’ cheese to achieve the all-important #cheesepull on Instagram, while the chicken crisps up nicely in the oven. Dabbous knows just what kind of food will satisfy our stay-at-home selves; we can set the table with candles and china for this meal or enjoy it just as it is in front of Netflix. Either way, it works.

Menus change fairly radically each week; one could put in a weekly order and not get bored. The spring menus, for example, include Wye Valley asparagus with smoked eel rillettes and a soft-boiled egg, pork belly and homemade black pudding with quince chutney and wet polenta, and a lemon verbena and citrus marmalade trifle. Equally tempting, for those in town, are the picnic boxes, best enjoyed in the sunshine across the way in Green Park.

PRICE: £68 for two DELIVERY: Within a sevenmile radius of the restaurant. hide.co.uk

SABOR G

ood food can take you on a journey.

That’s certainly the case for the at-home offering from Spanish chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho of Michelin-starred tapas bar and restaurant Sabor in central London. We order the £90 ‘Sabor en Casa’ box, a D.I.Y tapas spread for two to three that includes ham croquetas, tortilla, Galician-style octopus, garlic prawns, arroz negro, beetroot salad, braised pig’s cheeks, and Basque cheesecake. There’s also an à la carte option, and a menu of such essentials as mini tortilla pans and bottles of Sangria.

I regret not investing in the former: my frying pan is so huge, my attempt at Sabor’s runny-inside tortilla comes out as flat as a pancake (albeit a very delicious pancake).

For ease, I course out the tapas dishes and prep two at a time, so I’m not flitting constantly between kitchen and table. As meal kits go, this one – eight different dishes in all – demands a little culinary

exertion and generates a fair bit of washing up.

Chef Barragán Mohacho makes it easy, however, and I send her muchas gracias for preparing the octopus, so I don’t have to.

All I have to do is boil it in the bag for three minutes.

She even supplies the seasoning.

I balk at the quantity of salt crystals and sweet smoked paprika but tip the lot on anyway and, my goodness, the flavour absolutely pops, exactly as it does at the restaurant.

Chef knows best.

My trip-ups aside – I could have got the pan hotter for the gambas – the Sabor kit enables me to recreate precisely the full-on flavours of a meal at Sabor which, in turn, recreates the flavours of Spain. It’s the next best thing to a summer holiday.

PRICE: From £90 for two.

DELIVERY: Nationwide saborencasashop.com

66

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 13.indd 66

04/05/2021 13:35

Restaurant R E V I E W S

MUSETTE

Tom Aikens BY

C

hef Tom Aikens won his first Michelin star (two actually) at 26. He won his latest at 50, for his new restaurant Muse in Belgravia, a hidden gem that few have yet had the chance to dine at, given the 25-seat restaurant opened just two months before the pandemic struck. Until it reopens in May, the best way to sample Aikens’ food is in the form of a ‘makeaway’ from his delivery line Musette, exclusive to luxury restaurant kit service Finish & Feast.

Aikens is a notorious perfectionist. It’s quickly apparent that our three-course dinner is not going to be a five-minutesin-the-microwave job. Fearsome Great British Menu judge that he is, he has us wielding a piping bag for the very first dish, a colourful medley of salt-baked beets, red, yellow and candy-striped, layered over chilled beetroot and cucumber salad piped with dots of cool yoghurt dressing.

I could, of course, just throw it all together but by following the instructions to the letter – I lay off the apéritifs for this – I assemble

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FO O D - D R I N K

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 13.indd 67

a stylish Scandi-esque salad that I’d proudly serve at a dinner party.

Linseed, fried capers and dill salt aren’t my go-to ingredients but they’re the flashes of brilliance that distinguish Michelin cooking from, well, my cooking.

The main course demands even more focus as I juggle pans, whisking butter into orange sauce, searing cod loin, and browning rosemary-scented endive with caramel powder (a new technique to me). It all comes together in minutes, a restaurantworthy dish with flavours I’d never think to combine. By dessert, my confidence has grown and I’m piping again. It’s a showstopper: a delicate tart case, piped with pumpkin mousse, white chocolate and pumpkin ganache, and coconut cream and garnished with cocoa nibs and toasted coconut. The meal’s a success and I may just have picked up some new tips and tricks along the way. A Michelin star meal kit for a special occasion.

PRICE: From £90 for two.

DELIVERY: Nationwide. finishandfeast.com

67

04/05/2021 13:35

My Glossary

Anna Barnett’s

FAVOURITE ALFRESCO RESTAURANTS The cook, food writer and podcaster shares the six outdoor London spots she’s heading to this season A s t o l d t o J E SS KO L H A M - H O H L E R

68

ANNA BARNETT_v2.indd 68

05/05/2021 22:00

FOOD & DRINK

PETERSHAM NURSERIES CAFE Off Church Lane, Petersham Road, Richmond, TW10 petershamnurseries.com A visit to Petersham Nurseries in Richmond is always special. The beautiful restaurant is set in a glasshouse filled with jasmine and bougainvillea, which instantly transports you from south London to a faraway land.

It’s even more magical and romantic in the evenings, when they have fairy lights strewn across the ceiling and you’re nestled amongst lush flowers and greenery.

The service is brilliant and the menu focuses on simple dishes, with lots of colour and flavour. All the seasonal produce comes directly from their kitchen garden and is served with Mediterranean flair - but none of the dishes are overly healthy and there’s plenty of comfort food. I love that you can arrive dressed up in heels or in your muddy wellies after a walk around the park - either way, you won’t feel out of place.

ROCHELLE CANTEEN 16 Playground Gardens, Shoreditch, E2 arnoldandhenderson.com This hidden spot in Shoreditch, owned by Margot Henderson and her chef husband Fergus, is unassuming and very relaxed. Enter via a buzzer on a blue door set in the wall of a Victorian school and you are greeted by a pretty courtyard in an enchanting walled garden. Once you step inside it feels like you could be anywhere - it’s a real oasis of calm far removed from the hustle and bustle of London. You never feel rushed when you’re dining here, and you can even bring your dog to join you outside.

I try something different every time I visit because their menu changes daily and they do such interesting things with seasonal produce, particularly with vegetables – I expect there’ll be some wonderful dishes with peas this summer.

The breads are incredible and I’m particularly obsessed with their St John focaccia, which is the one thing I will always order.

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FO O D - D R I N K

ANNA BARNETT_v2.indd 69

69

05/05/2021 22:00

HOME & INTERIORS

THE RIVER CAFE Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, Hammersmith, W6 rivercafe.co.uk A lot of my writing and cooking has been centred around Italy, and making homemade pasta is one of my favourite things to do. The River Cafe is famous for their celebrated take on Italian cuisine, so a meal in their gorgeous riverside garden terrace is at the top of my list this season. It’s across town from where I live, but to me that just makes it even more of an occasion and gives me a reason to break away from my usual go-to neighbourhood spots and make a day out of the visit.

Run by original founder Ruth Rogers, the restaurant’s chefs are renowned for using the finest ingredients and really letting them sing. They put a lot of emphasis on the quality of their produce and I’ve always admired the simplicity in their approach. I would gladly eat any one of their delicious pasta dishes, whether it’s the fresh nettle pasta with butter and parmesan, or the ravioli with zucchini, ricotta and mint.

BRAT 374 Helmsley Place, Hackney, E8 bratrestaurant.com Brat’s residency at The Climpson’s Arch in Hackney Wick, which opened last summer, is one of my favourite restaurants, with its wood burning oven, flaming fire pit and the smell of the open grill. Sitting outside on sunny days reminds me of being in Basque country. This is where my group of friends always book when there’s something to celebrate, so it’s really a special spot for me.

The food here is so simplistic and pure - each dish is the best version of itself.

Head chef Tomos Parry has a real eye for detail, with a very honest approach to cooking. From the charred peppers to their Japanese and Spanish-influenced crab rice, everything on the menu is delicious. They use a Tuscan olive oil that’s incredible, and the bread with anchovies is not to be missed. The desserts are amazing too, especially their brown bread ice cream. Luckily, the family-style serving approach means you can try a bit of everything.

70

ANNA BARNETT_v2.indd 70

05/05/2021 22:00

FOOD & DRINK

CHILTERN FIREHOUSE 1 Chiltern Street, Marylebone, W1 chilternfirehouse.com Sometimes you just want to get dressed up and make going out for a meal a bit of a treat, and when that impulse hits, the terrace at Chiltern Firehouse is always my first port of call. Its upscale bistro vibe offers a slightly more relaxed version of the restaurant inside and it’s one of those places where you can lose an entire day, whether you’re sitting down for a coffee or a five-course feast.

Nuno Mendes’ brasserie menu is pretty faultless – I always order oysters from the cart, and their wood oven sourdough pizza and signature crab-stuffed doughnuts are a must.

The terrace is a great place for special events. I’ve been there a few times for birthdays where we’ll have a late lunch that will linger on into the evening. On those days we’ll go through rounds of espresso martinis – my cocktail of choice – before moving onto their dirty martinis, which are truly excellent.

THE BERKELEY BEACH HUTS The Berkeley, Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, SW1 the-berkeley.co.uk Although it’s in the heart of London, The Berkeley's ever-evolving outdoor restaurant always makes me feel like I’m a million miles away. This season, they’ve taken inspiration from the best of the British seaside with five kitsch candy-striped beach huts. I can’t wait to visit and try their elevated take on classic seafront favourites, especially their five-star twist on fish and chips, fresh-off-the-boat lobster and the Gourmet 99 ice creams.

The Filling Podcast with Anna Barnett is available to download from podcasts.apple.com

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FO O D - D R I N K

ANNA BARNETT_v2.indd 71

71

07/05/2021 10:39

The leading Greek villa rental specialists for over 20 years

True Greece from the comfort of a home (+44) 7930 287 742

5 STAR GREECE 03_21.indd 1

www.fivestargreece.com

enquiries@fivestargreece.com

04/05/2021 14:15

THE COAST IS CLEAR Bequia is a petite, laid-back version of its more well-trodden Caribbean neighbours, ideal for those seeking sanctuary on their travels. Spend unhurried days in the shade of the mango trees that line the beach, snorkelling the cyan waters or exploring pretty Port Elizabeth, the island’s heartbeat. Bequia Beach Hotel, on secluded Friendship Bay, offers retro-chic luxury and with Virgin Atlantic launching a new flight route from June, it’s never been easier to swap everyday life for paradise. bequiabeachhotel.com

TRAVEL OPENER 13.indd 80

04/05/2021 14:28

Travel Notes

Seek seclusion in the Caribbean, get spiritual in Ibiza and soak up the buzz of Tel Aviv C o m p i l e d b y HARRIET COOPER

DRIFT AWAY Make a splash this summer with Dardanella, a privately-owned 37-metre superyacht which is available to charter for the first time. Five exquisitely appointed suites, bespoke dining and a holistic yoga and wellness programme come as standard. But what sets this vessel apart is the uber-experienced and competent crew who know everything there is to know about the ocean, from hidden dive spots and secret surf breaks to the most secluded anchorages that teem with sea life.

Round off your aquatic adventures with a drink in the hot tub on the private top deck or watching a movie under the stars. yachtdardanella.com

A Sunshine Idyll

GREEK CHIC There is nothing that the founders of Five Star Greece, Ileana von Hirsch and Evi Aidonopoulou, do not know about holidaying in style in the sun-drenched country. Their expertise lies in exclusive villas, with a portfolio that covers everything from sprawling beachfront estates to dramatic hilltop retreats, making for the perfect Grecian odyssey. fivestargreece.com

WHITE HOT SUMMER

Set on the island’s peaceful northern tip, on a private 20-acre peninsula in Xarraca Bay, Six Senses Ibiza is the first sustainable resort and residential community in the Balearics. The vibe is bohemianmeets-barefoot luxe, with a spiritual learning centre and state-of-the-art spa, all-natural, organic dining scene and an open artist space. sixsenses.com

74

TRAVEL NOTES 13.indd 74

04/05/2021 22:48

T R AV E L

HOUSE STYLE

Soho House Group plans to open five new sites this year, one of which is in Tel Aviv. The House, in a former convent close to the vibrant Jaffa Flea Market in the Old City, promises all the panache we’ve come to expect from Nick Jones and his team, including 24 effortlessly stylish bedrooms, a pool and sweeping terrace.

sohohouse.com

ISLAND LIFE

It’s fitting that Kalesma means ‘inviting’ in Greek. This brand-new boutique hotel – on the island of Mykonos, overlooking the Aegean Sea – is a whitewashed, bougainvillea-clad haven where time seems to stand still. Interiors are sleek and minimalist, and each room comes with a private heated pool, though the beach is a short stroll away. kalesmamykonos.com

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / T R AV E L

TRAVEL NOTES 13.indd 75

75

04/05/2021 22:49

Wanderlust

GreatBritish

The

Escape These bucolic boltholes tap into the cottagecore aesthetic, and make for an idyllic countryside staycation with family and friends Wo r d s b y HARRIET COOPER

WILDERNESS RESERVE Suffolk

I

wildernessreserve.com

magine a 5,000-acre private estate, set deep in the Suffolk countryside, that’s entirely devoted to guests’ enjoyment. Wilderness Reserve is that place. The brainchild of billionaire property entrepreneur Jon Hunt, this enormous swathe of land houses 15 luxury cottages, farm and country houses hosting two to 27 guests, all of them pet- and child-friendly.

You might think that Sibton Park – the estate’s 14-bedroom Georgian manor house – is the jewel in the crown. And, in many ways, it is, with its dramatic portico entrance, spectacular suite of reception rooms (the drawing room, with its listed Chinese wallpaper, is stand out), gym, private cinema and courtyard.

But while the other properties may be a little smaller, they’re no less impressive.

The Walled Garden is an eight-bedroom retreat spread across three glasshouses, with its own one-acre private garden resplendent with espaliered fruit trees. And the infamous pink Farmhouse – the oldest property on the estate, sleeping 12 – is all beamed ceilings and inglenook fireplaces.

Also dreamy is Moat Cottage, an extraordinary Tudor farmhouse that’s surrounded by water and accessed only by a footbridge, and Hex Cottage, a tiny, thatched hideaway with a private lavender meadow as its back garden. Electricity-free, it's ideal for a romantic candlelit weekend (the wood-burning range provides hot water and heating).

Each property is unique in its architecture and decor, but all guests have the run of the estate and it may come as no surprise that the activities on offer are extensive.

The energetic can try anything from paddleboarding on the lake to exploring the grounds on a Pashley bicycle, and the nature trail is a pleasant way to while away an afternoon as the estate ecologist points out the flora and fauna that call Wilderness home (Hunt is said to have planted one million trees here).

The food offering taps into the local scene, whether it's a hearty meal in your cottage, a ‘firefeast’ in a secluded woodland setting or large-scale festivities with friends and family. For a celebration like no other, you could even rent the entire estate. Now that would be some party.

76

MAIN TRAVEL 13.indd 76

05/05/2021 22:03

T R AV E L

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / T R AV E L

MAIN TRAVEL 13.indd 77

77

05/05/2021 22:03

COTTAGES AT THYME Cotswolds thyme.co.uk

T

hose hankering after bucolic charm need to put Southrop, Gloucestershire, into their SatNav. For it’s here, on a rolling 150-acre private Cotswolds estate, that they’ll find a honey-hued cluster of farmhouse buildings collectively known as Thyme. This family-run country house retreat – or ‘village within a village’, as founder and creative director Caryn Hibbert calls it - has the vibe of a sleepy hamlet, but with everything you need to relax and recharge.

Find a shady spot in the topiary-filled gardens to sip ice cold rosé and admire Bunny Guinness’s garden design. Or up the ante with botanical cocktails at The Baa – lambing sheds transformed into a bar. There’s also a bustling cookery school, not to mention a tennis court, heated springwater outdoor pool and The Meadow Spa, a haven of peace and tranquillity with its ‘love of nature and the land’ ethos and Aurelia Probiotic Skincare treatments.

78

MAIN TRAVEL 13.indd 78

05/05/2021 22:03

T R AV E L

Guests can stay in the hotel rooms, all of which have been individually designed by Caryn (with names such as Lemon Balm and English Rose, they’re as charming as you’d imagine), and have the run of the place. But those seeking extra privacy should book one of the on-site cottages, each one a pared back vision of wood-burning stoves, roll-top bathtubs and deeply comfortable beds.

Picture-perfect The Tallet offers the best of both worlds – seclusion in the form of a four-bedroom suite, so four couples could book it together, with a spacious open-plan living space and private courtyard. Even better, guests also have access to all the facilities of the hotel. Similarly, Pear Tree – a new one-bedroom cottage suite – joins the portfolio this summer.

Old Walls, on the other hand, is a selfcatered cottage with sweeping views

across rolling fields, where Black Welsh Mountain sheep graze contentedly, and wildflower meadows that hum with life in summer. Spread over three rambling floors, it has two double bedrooms and two bathrooms, a cosy sitting room, sunny conservatory and a walled garden ideal for dogs and children, as well as a spot to sip a cool Pimm’s on a balmy evening. A welcome hamper with homemade goodies awaits new arrivals.

The Ox Barn serves lunch and dinner currently on the relocated, sociallydistanced south-facing terrace, where chef Charlie Hibbert (Caryn’s son and formerly at Quo Vadis in Soho) delivers a kitchen garden-inspired menu, including pork with polenta and asparagus and meringue with freshly picked rhubarb. For a home-from-home hideaway, this country idyll has it all.

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / T R AV E L

MAIN TRAVEL 13.indd 79

79

05/05/2021 22:03

SPRING COTTAGE AT CLIVEDEN Berkshire clivedenhouse.co.uk

A

nyone who has stayed at stately home-turnedcountry house hotel Cliveden will not be surprised to learn that its three-bedroom cottage is just as luxurious as the big house, making it the ideal spot for an indulgent weekend away.

Set in the wooded grounds of the five-star estate – which was once the seat of the Astor family - in its previous life the cottage was the summerhouse of the former chatelaine, the Countess of Orkney. The 19th-century building has been brought bang up to date and is decorated in soft, muted tones, allowing the historical features to shine, most notably the stunning lattice bay windows.

The three comfortable bedrooms (two doubles and a twin), and the bathroom with its walk-in shower, bath

and splash tv, make it ideal for families, small groups or even couples looking for a bit of extra space.

Downstairs, enormous sofas and crackling fires in the two lounge areas are designed for cosy evenings with a glass of wine and a board game on the go. The country kitchen comes with all the mod cons, including a duck egg blue Aga – though there is a private chef on hand should you wish to hang up your apron for the duration of your stay.

But it's the location that steals the show.

Sitting on the banks of the River Thames, the cottage’s private garden gently slopes down to the water’s edge and even comes with its own mooring – Queen Victoria would arrive here by boat when she came to take tea at Cliveden, and it was in these grounds that Kenneth Grahame wrote the children’s literary classic The Wind in the Willows in 1908. It’s the perfect spot to sit and watch the comings and goings of the river as you gradually make your way through the welcome hamper, which contains Champagne and wines, as well as nibbles – there’s even hot chocolate and marshmallows for younger visitors.

Guests can use the facilities at Cliveden (when it reopens in May) and will likely want to make a beeline for the outdoor heated pool, which is flanked by comfortable loungers and two enormous hot tubs. Surely one of the most glorious spots in England on a hot summer’s day.

80

MAIN TRAVEL 13.indd 80

05/05/2021 22:04

T R AV E L

BROWNBER HOUSE Yo r k s h i r e D a l e s

T

hank goodness Peter and Amanda Jacques-Walker decided to leave their successful careers in London to embark on a rural adventure. Otherwise we wouldn’t have Brownber Hall, a Victorian country house in a remote Cumbrian hamlet which the couple bought and transformed into an award-winning seven-bedroom guesthouse.

But in the wake of the pandemic and in a bid to adapt to the #NewNormal, last summer the couple decided to reopen the Hall as a private rental, whilst simultaneously launching Brownber House, an adjacent fourbedroom farmhouse sleeping eight – also available for staycationers.

brownber.co.uk

The interiors in both - a mix of traditional and contemporary - are all down to Georgina Rose, who was formerly an architect and interior designer at Soho House and just happens to be Amanda’s sister. Expect a Vanessa Arbuthnott covered chair here and William Morris wallpaper there, while well-loved books, modern art, cosy rugs and vintage furniture all add to the eclectic aesthetic.

The attention-to-detail throughout the Hall and House is exemplary, from the well-equipped kitchens to the bathrooms with their Perrin & Rowe fittings (you’ll likely never want to get out of the freestanding stone bath tub in the master bathroom, which offers magnificent views).

The two properties are connected by a private 50-metre pathway, meaning guests can comfortably hire one or both (sleeping up to 23 guests across the two) - though each has its own sizable garden, BBQ and firepit.

Indeed, it’s all about the outdoors here, with the beguiling Howgill Fells right

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / T R AV E L

MAIN TRAVEL 13.indd 81

on the doorstep, waiting to be explored.

Hungry walkers will be rewarded handsomely at Brownber. A hamper greets new guests, packed with freshly baked sourdough bread, marmalade, cakes (the lemon drizzle is a must) and cookies. Fridges can also be pre-stocked with local delicacies, as well as picnics and home cooked meals. What could be more delightful than a post-ramble plate of local longhorn beef bourguignon with dauphinoise potatoes made that day by Amanda, who trained at Leith’s, all washed down with a bottle of Burgundy?

This is just one example of Peter and Amanda’s nothing-is-too-muchtrouble approach. Whether you're looking for insider tips on the best walks or need help curating your stay (stargazing, horse riding, biking, fishing), they are only a WhatsApp message away. “We want people to feel they can relax here and make themselves at home,” says Peter. “Our aim is for our guests to feel as if they have come to stay at a friend’s house in the countryside.”

81

05/05/2021 22:04

COLE AND SON 03_21.indd 1

Verrio Mirrors 118/3005

cole-and-son.com

29/03/2021 22:43

HOME & INTERIORS

LET THERE BE LIGHT Krakow-born artist and designer Magda Jurek works under her artistic pseudonym Pani Jurek, creating multifunctional, sustainable lighting and furniture designed to be continually changed or rearranged within a space.

Her new collection, TRN, is a homage to the Polish artist Jan Tarasin, known for his striking contemporary work.

Jurek’s latest pieces are equally compelling, notably her ceramic light fittings which are unique in shape, bold in colour and graphic in form. panijurek.pl

HOMES OPENER 13.indd 87

04/05/2021 13:44

Design Notes Regal prints, fierce florals and the most joy-enducing colour of the season C o m p i l e d b y A M Y M O O R E A WO N G

LIGHT SHOW

The sculptural Superpose light by German designer Frederik Kurzweg is made from three simple metal sheets artfully draped over one another. Polka dot perforations add depth and cast textured patterns onto the walls, while the lamp itself seems to change shape when viewed from different angles. £364, normann-copenhagen.com

RAISE THE BAR

Wish List

Take a trip to a sunny, jewel-toned landscape every time you need a top-up with the decorative upholstered doors of Matthew Williamson’s Tamara drinks cabinet for Roome London. e capsule collection also includes screens and sideboards, and is the first time the designer has translated his illustrative work onto furniture.

From £9,500 roomelondon.com

FLORAL FANCY Scatter the joys of spring onto your tablescape with ready-to-wear label Bernadette’s latest collection of uplifting plates, bowls, cups and saucers. Curated

by South Africa-based ceramic artist Mervyn Gers, the pieces are adorned with expressive florals hand painted by the brand’s co-founder Charlotte de Geyter in a pretty-yet-punchy palette.

From £30 bernadetteantwerp.com

THE HOT SEAT Get up close and personal with a little help from heritage Danish brand Carl Hansen – it’s asymmetric Sideways sofa by designer Rikke Frost angles sitters towards each other in shapely bent wood, paper cord and pastel cushions, playfully prompting conversations of the deep and meaningful kind.

From £2,667 aram.co.uk

84

HOME NOTES_13.indd 84

05/05/2021 22:05

HOME & INTERIORS

PALACE PRINTS

Dress your walls in designs fit for a queen with Cole & Son’s Historic Royal Palaces collection. Inspired by regal residences from Hampton Court Palace to the Tower of London, the 17 wallpapers celebrate the work of architects, artists, and craftspeople across 1,000 years of British creativity.

HERE COMES THE SUN Jolt your senses to life by dressing your home with flashes of brightest yellow this season.

A colour that provokes joy and infuses a space with energy – even the smallest accessory will fill a room with a blast of warming sunshine.

cole-and-son.com

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: LIGNE ROSET Paipai Chair, from £2,894; ligne-roset.com RAAWII Duplum Mirror, £185 libertylondon.com JONATHAN ADLER Pompidou Quatrefoil Cushion, £95; jonathanadler.com JENNIFER NEWMAN Linear Aluminium Table £1,650 jennifernewman.com FLOS Bellhop Portable Light, £175, amara.com HAY Juicy Vase, £173; farfetch.com LA DOUBLEJ x SALVIATI Murano Wine Glass (set of 4) £458; matchesfashion.com FLORAL STREET Sunshine Bloom Scented Candle, £28; floralstreet.com POLS POTTEN Zig Zag Stool, £214; madeindesign.co.uk WONKIWARE Studio Soup Bowl, £22; conranshop.co.uk

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

HOME NOTES_13.indd 85

85

05/05/2021 22:06

HOME & INTERIORS

“There’s joy in expressing one’s individuality"

Known for her inimitable style, Swedish-born, London-based interior designer Beata Heuman shares her thoughts on the power of imagination and the art of interiors W o r d s LU CY SC OV E L L

“Y

ou want to be inspired and energised by your home, as well as feel at ease and comfortable in it,” Beata Heuman tells me from the riverside Hammersmith townhouse she shares with her husband John and their two young daughters, Gurli and Alma. “Your home really can spark the imagination and surprise you.” It is, of course, her eye for creating interiors that blend “the theatrical and unexpected with a certain cleanness and simplicity”, as she puts it, that makes Heuman one of the most exciting, and in demand, interior designers in the business.

Since establishing her eponymous studio in London in 2013, she has completed high-profile commercial and residential projects around the world, from Notting Hill to Nantucket. (Always discreet about her A-list clientele, she does concede that she’s currently completing the house of model Adwoa Aboah in the capital, as well as a “moody brownstone” in New York). In 2018 she took home House & Garden’s inaugural ‘Designer of the Year’ award and, in 2020, she made her AD100 debut. Of such prestigious accolades, she says with a soft Swedish lilt, “of course, it’s great to have the recognition, but most importantly it gave me confidence.”

Now she’s written her first book. Completed in lockdown, Every Room Should Sing comprises ten chapters, each dedicated to a design principle and illustrated with a standout project. She hopes it will “encourage the reader to find their own voice and consider what is meaningful to them in a home,” she explains. “I tried to avoid being too prescriptive or dogmatic; it’s really about celebrating individuality.”

Each project is suffused with Heuman’s signature style – which she describes as “imaginative, considered and fresh” – but no two are the same. “A house is a reflection of who you are,” she enthuses. “I for one feel much more inspired when there’s a bit of mystery around me: when things aren’t exactly as they seem.” Think unusual paintings, objets d’art and curiosities – beds with majestic paws or sofas with embroidered eyelashes on the arm, for example.

86

BEATA HEUMAN.indd 86

05/05/2021 22:07

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

BEATA HEUMAN.indd 87

87

05/05/2021 22:07

Nowhere is this playful, layered, brightly hued aesthetic more evident than in Beata’s Hammersmith home, which features in the book. “There are animals and strange creatures everywhere,” she muses. In the guest room, which she calls the ‘safari room’, for instance, hangs a version of Charles Baskerville’s Zebra and Black Panther With Cacti. “I saw the original in an Elsie de Wolfe interior,” she says. “I loved it so much I decided to paint a copy myself.” In the sitting room is an antique royal banner from the former West African Kingdom of Dahomey.

We’re soon discussing the gold mural in her daughters’ bedroom, inspired by Ludwig Bemelmans’ 1947 mural at the Carlyle hotel in New York. It features “little scenes and characters that invite you to imagine the world they are in,” she says. “In my book, I talk about tapping into a kind of childlike curiosity and, for me, this room represents that idea. It brings me so much joy to lie there with my children in the evenings and look at it. I think it makes them happy too.”

While Heuman’s whimsical approach seems at odds with the pared-back ‘Scandi-chic’ style, it owes much to her Swedish predecessors.

“For me, Scandinavian design is Josef Frank and Carl Larsson,” she explains.

“It’s colourful but simple – free lines, curves and painted furniture. That side of Scandinavian style has been a great source of inspiration.”

So too has Italian design, notably the theatricality of the Baroque. After leaving school, Heuman spent a year in Florence with her sister, then an art student at the renowned Charles H. Cecil Studios. It was the beginning of a life-long love affair with Italy and its storied heritage. “We now have some of our lampshades and handles made there,” she says proudly.

The products in question form part of the bespoke Beata Heuman line of homewares, fabrics, furniture, lighting and wallpaper offered for sale via Shoppa, the firm’s e-commerce site launched last year. Despite a challenging 2020, Shoppa now counts for a large part of the business. “I think

lockdown really encouraged people to see the value in investing in their home.

After all, it’s where we spent a lot of our time.”

Heuman designs everything for Shoppa herself and works with small outfits in the UK, Sweden and Italy to create products that last. “Something

that stands the test of time is testament to its quality and craftsmanship,” she notes. Standout pieces include her signature Dodo Egg pendant light, which features in Beata’s kitchen; and the Olympia wall light, inspired by an Alberto Giacometti design from the 1930s.

88

BEATA HEUMAN.indd 88

05/05/2021 22:07

HOME & INTERIORS

Smaller touches can also prettify interiors, continues Beata, with flowers, cushions and candles instantly uplifting a space. “Opening up a wardrobe to find that it is lined with beautiful wallpaper – which is quick and affordable to do – will change your perspective.” So too will putting beautiful handles on your cabinetry, just as she has on the eye-catching skyblue cabinet that hides the refrigerator in her kitchen. “It takes everything up a notch.”

Changing environment can also help shake things up. Last year Beata and her husband spent more time in their little wooden garden house, which they affectionately call ‘Chatsworth’. “Being able to physically remove ourselves from the house in lockdown gave us that much-needed sense of difference.

The enormously deep loveseat is my favourite place to sit.”

Rearranging furniture or rehanging artworks are alternative options, or you could simply “light candles to mark the transition into evening,” she suggests.

Has lockdown forever shaped the way we style our home? “I think and hope people will have more confidence to express their own taste and not feel the need to slavishly follow trends.”

Eschewing the concept of the ‘ideal home’ can in fact be liberating.

“There’s a lot of joy in expressing one’s individuality,” writes Heuman in the introduction to her book. “It is freeing. It can be exhilarating. It can also be pretty irresistible when you see the unabashed, true character of another individual.

“Your home will continue to evolve with you through life, taking in whatever comes your way and reflecting you and your family’s past and present. It needs to be a fold for all the experiences you go through, which is a completely individual journey,” she continues.

Heuman credits her parents with her love of all things art and design.

Born and raised on a rural farm in Sweden, she spent much of her childhood “daydreaming, reading and drawing”, while days spent wandering around museums, art galleries and

The lion wardrobe in my daughters’ bedroom, which was designed bespoke for the space; the curved drawer fronts make it sit a bit lighter in the room. Next to it is a vintage Italian standing light.

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

BEATA HEUMAN.indd 89

89

05/05/2021 22:08

stately homes were commonplace.

“My mother and father encouraged our imaginations [Heuman has three siblings] by showing us what interested them, but importantly they let us follow our own paths.”

Heuman’s led her to London by way of Florence and notably to the studio of leading interior designer Nicky Haslam, where she spent nine years learning about the opulent history of 20th-century design and decoration as well as the importance of excellent craftsmanship and materials. He also introduced her to “the English generosity of spirit. I feel very lucky to have had that experience.”

Then along came Instagram.

“I wouldn’t be where I am now – professionally that is – without it,’ she says of her account, which currently has 143K followers. “Instagram allows me to communicate my designs to people in a simple, easy way.” She also finds inspiration in “the beautiful pictures certain people post.”

Among her favourite accounts are @savedny by Brooklyn-based artist and designer Sean McNanney and @tat.london by stylist Charlie Porter. But she adds, “Instagram can make you feel terrible and like you’re missing out.” How then does she find that elusive balance? “Curate who you follow and leave your phone in the kitchen at night. That way you don’t look at it first thing in the morning and last thing at night – I feel so much better for it.”

With a new book, an expanding product business and exciting design projects in the pipeline, the future’s looking as bright for Heuman as her imaginative, fresh interiors. Yet she seems surprisingly laid-back about it all. “I have always seen the value in making your house as nice and comfortable as it possibly can be,” she concludes. “But if lockdown has taught us anything, it’s that all you’ve really got is yourself and your immediate family and friends. I think we’ve all realised just how important it is to do what makes you happy.”

Every Room Should Sing

by Beata Heuman (Rizzoli) beataheuman.com

Looking through our living room to the breakfast room. This used to be one big, open space, and I added the bookshelf wall and sliding door. Strangely, I think it makes the house feel larger. The walls are light, but the bottle-green hue inside the bookshelves adds depth and mystery.

The entrance hall. The cabinet on the right was created for coats and storage, with a brass-lined niche for keys, mail, etc. The studio designed the patterned tiled floor. You can see the kitchen extension beyond.

The small drawing room. The walls are covered in thick woven seagrass panels and finished with a decorative boarder, set off subtly by the canary taffeta curtains.

90

BEATA HEUMAN.indd 90

05/05/2021 22:08

HOME & INTERIORS

I kept the Edwardian fireplace, which is quite heavy, but also pretty wonderful. The room is otherwise light. The walls are painted in a simple off-white, but the hand-drawn mirrored niches flanking the fireplace add depth. A delicate plaster chandelier crowns the room.

BEATA’S STYLE GUIDE The interiors influencer gives an insight into her design philosophy Fill your walls

To create the illusion of space, utilise the ceiling height and draw the eye up.

Start with a tall bookcase or by hanging artwork up high. Placing mirrors above doors will help too. Rooms might be tiny in terms of square footage but if the ceilings are high, they can lend a grand air, as the proportions become kind of warped.

Play with scale

Rather than letting a lack of space deflate, rejoice in what you can do. Creating a sense of scale and movement can add a bit of theatre without going too over the top; small rooms can be made to feel more spacious, freeing and uplifting. For me, designing small spaces was a perfect microcosm for what have become my guiding design principles: make the most of what you’ve got, be resourceful, and make sure it is practical.

Organise your space

You’re likely to feel less cluttered and more relaxed if everything can be tidied away. This is especially important now that most of us are spending more time at home. Invest in multi-purpose pieces: an ottoman, for instance, can double up as a coffee table and a storage unit.

Drinks need homes

THE GLOSSARY

Edit

The best way to design a space is to draw up a plan with a furniture layout. This step is about making sure you have the right flow and everything you need. For example, make sure there’s a flat, stable surface within reaching distance of your sofa for a cup of tea or that all-important first evening drink.

Choose your fabrics wisely

You can’t feel worried about ruining the fabrics in your home – especially on your sofa. Favour natural materials: even if they do mark, they’ll look better over time.

This laissez-faire approach is something I picked up from the English – very freeing for an uptight Swede. In fact, I can tell you that a pristine-looking pouffe is kind of frowned upon in some circles; it’s not chic at all.

Bring the outside in FROM TOP LEFT CLOCKWISE: Dodo Egg Light, £1,080; Asteria's Folly Cushion: Night, £144 Marbleized Velvet Cushion, £120; Marbleized Tray, £78; Metal Tray Stand, £102; Florentine Flowers Bolster Cushion, £120; Wave Bespoke Longue, £3,900 Cub Bespoke Chair in BH Teddy Mohair Gräs, £3,400 All available from shoppa.beataheuman.com

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

BEATA HEUMAN.indd 91

Adding foliage and flowers will instantly uplift a space. We have an olive tree in our garden, which has a wild yet elegant beauty to it, and a mimosa tree at the front of the house which brings me so much joy. Mimosa is my absolute favourite – it smells like sweet spring.

91

05/05/2021 22:08

Artist Focus

YINKA ILORI The man bringing joy to London inside and out

The north London-based designer spread some much-needed cheer over the last year with his colourful community projects – his new homeware collection means you can now take it home with you W o r d s A M Y M O O R E A WO N G P o r t r a i t ANDREW MEREDITH

92

YINKA ILORI.indd 92

05/05/2021 22:19

HOME & INTERIORS

O

ver the last year, Yinka Ilori’s eyecatching messages have spread joy and positivity across London and beyond in an explosion of colour, pattern and energy. The phrases ‘Better Days are Coming I Promise’, ‘As Long As We Have Each Other We’ll Be OK', ‘Love Always Wins’ and ‘If You Can Dream Then Anything Is Possible’ appeared on buildings throughout the capital and were shown on hundreds of digital billboards nationwide, in an attempt to raise people’s spirits during testing times.

With a BA in Furniture and Product Design from London Metropolitan University, Ilori had an eight-year stint at Marks & Spencer in Moorgate (‘I remember being on the till dreaming about having my own business’), before forming his own studio in 2017. His joyinducing works quickly started making waves in the design world and went on to land him the prestigious Emerging Design prize at last year’s London Design Festival. But after working with clients from Somerset House and Dulwich Picture Gallery – you couldn’t miss his striking 10 metre high Colour Palace in the gardens there over the summer of 2019 - to Adidas, Universal Music and Pinterest, the designer’s focus shifted to more public-facing projects, hence the recent installations across the city, including a ‘Love Always Wins’ mural for Harrow City Council, designed to inspire his fellow Londoners.

‘I wanted to uplift people's spirits and create hope – lockdown tested our sense of self-worth, and we all needed a reminder of who we were and that we could still dream,’ Yinka tells us from his North London studio. ‘I love poetry, I love wordplay and I love that words have the power to change feelings or a mindset.’

“My work is an expression of my identity and the two cultures I’ve grown up in" T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

YINKA ILORI.indd 93

93

05/05/2021 22:19

Yinka’s unapologetic use of colour and the narrative which is woven into his work stems from his Nigerian heritage and experience growing up in Islington’s Ashby House council estate. ‘Understanding my parents’ story of leaving their home country and seeing them celebrate their culture through colour, textiles and clothes really left its mark on me, and I inject that into my work,’ he explains. ‘My childhood in a huge estate full of people from different cultures had a really positive effect on me and how I think and design. I really value community projects because I grew up in a community.’

Yinka’s work is celebratory, and its optimism is just as easily harnessed from his building-sized installations than from a single mug or plate from his new homeware collection.

Born out of the cancellation of planned projects lockdown wrought, the joyful pieces have been snapped up by the likes of Matches Fashion and Selfridges (‘that was weird because I’ve been going there since I was a kid’) and taken to America by Moda Operandi. ‘I wanted the homeware to trigger flashes of positivity,’ he explains. ‘When there’s a dark or low moment, hopefully it will raise a smile’.

“There’s an emotion and memory in the work – every interior should have an element of storytelling" The first range spans hand thrown ceramics, shapely enamelware and woven tea towels and tablecloths, all adorned with sunshine tones and bold forms that speak of happiness. Narrative is embedded into the patterns with simplified motifs – the Omi design for example, seen across trays, rugs and cushions, references the waves and rum barrels that historically flowed up the Thames into London’s Royal Docks from the Caribbean. ‘I like to have small hidden messages within the patterns to give my designs meaning, context and depth,’ Yinka explains.

‘There’s an emotion and memory in the work – every interior should have an element of storytelling.’

What’s next? An experiential Afrofuture pop up shop in (probably) East London, projects around London Design Festival and Frieze, lots of murals, installations and collaborations, more homeware and a footwear collection. He promised better days were coming, and it looks like he was right. yinkailori.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: As Long As We Have Each Other Plate, £70; If You Can Dream Then Anything Is Possible Print, £250; Omi Cushion £75; Ere Tray, £45;Omi Bowl, £115; Love Always Wins Print, £250 All available from yinkailori.com

94

YINKA ILORI.indd 94

05/05/2021 22:19

HOME & INTERIORS

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

YINKA ILORI.indd 95

95

05/05/2021 22:19

L A S T WO R D

Clara Paget

MY GLOSSARY

Actress, model and Project Zero ambassador Clara Paget opens her little black book to the capital, from slow fashion to secret river walks A s t o l d t o LU C I A N A B E L L I N I HOME IS

I grew up on Portobello Road, where my mum has lived since the Seventies. The area has changed a lot, but it still holds a special place in my heart. I’ve lived all over the city since; first Camden and now Canonbury, which I love as it connects north to east London.

FAVOURITE RESTAURANT

CALDERA

Caldera is a great Mexican spot in Hackney - you can’t beat their tacos and Margaritas.

GO-TO LOCAL SHOP

There are endless vintage and charity shops, like Blue17, on Holloway Road; and Conservatory Archives on Hackney Road is the most amazing plant shop.

FAVOURITE FASHION BOUTIQUE

Annie’s Ibiza, which opened a London outpost in Soho at the end of last year. The mix of rare vintage pieces, global brands and emerging designers is really fresh and so different to everywhere else – and every piece is hand-picked

by Annie herself.

FAVOURITE HOTEL IN LONDON

Hidden away in the back streets of South Kensington, Blakes Hotel has the most decadent atmosphere - the rooms are all unique, with each one inspired by faraway lands.

FAVOURITE MEMBERS’ CLUB

I spend a lot of time at Laylow in Notting Hill. They serve delicious food in the Bella

Freud-designed restaurant, while live music and DJ gigs take place in the basement.

FAVOURITE PUB

My local is Clissold Park Tavern in Stoke Newington. It’s a great place to go for a pizza and a pint after a day in the park and they have lots of outdoor space, so it’s perfect for meeting up with friends.

FAVOURITE GALLERY

Whichever one my dad [artist Alex Uxbridge] is exhibiting in generally becomes my favourite. Most recently it’s Panter & Hall in St James’s, which has a wonderful permanent collection of British and Scottish art.

GO-TO FLORIST

The family-run Flowers N16 in Stoke Newington sells a huge variety of flowers and has a lovely cafe where you can get amazing coffee in a hidden garden at the back. I tend to order delphiniums, peonies and sweetpeas.

FAVOURITE INDEPENDENT CINEMA

Screen on the Green in Islington – it opened in 1913 and is one of the oldest cinemas in the UK.

FAVOURITE FASHION DESIGNERS

I like to support London-based designers like Clio Peppiatt – her hand-beaded creations are the epitome of exquisite slow fashion. Also, the inimitable Vivienne Westwood for leading the way for sustainable practises in luxury fashion. And London-made label Hunza G for their brilliant one-size-fitsall swimwear in every colour of the rainbow.

FAVOURITE INTERIOR BRANDS

I’m always on the lookout for something a bit quirky Casacoeur by Willa Keswick and Pooky Lighting both do bright, fun and unique pieces to cheer up your home.

FAVOURITE WORKOUT

ANNIE’S IBIZA

Yoga with Christabel Reed (the founder of the Advaya initiative) for slow meditative

practise; Tempo Pilates in Hackney for the best reformer pilates classes and the Flobility online fitness programme with Matt Cunningham, which is all about spine conscious training and restoring your posture.

I GET MY HAIR DONE AT

George Northwood in Fitzrovia. I go to Kat for my colour - she’s the best there is - and Elliot for my cuts, as he really understands my wild mane.

THE ROUNDHOUSE

FAVOURITE BEAUTY TREATMENT

There’s nothing like a good manicure and pedicure.

My local favourite is Chloe Nails on Holloway Road.

I always have a nude colour on my hands and a deep red on my toes.

FAVOURITE BEAUTY SALON

GEORGE NORTHWOOD

FACEGYM

For facials I head to Facegym, which has salons all over London - their face ‘workouts’ keep me feeling fresh. I’m a POOKY LIGHTING big fan of Ruuby at home, particularly their mani-pedis. I love that it’s really simple to book and they can usually have someone at your door within an hour.

MY SIGNATURE SCENT

I don’t wear scent every day, but when I do it is usually Charlotte Tilbury’s Scent of a Dream – it’s spicy, woody and floral all at once.

FAVOURITE MUSIC VENUE

I’ve been to countless gigs at the Roundhouse in Camden over the years. I’ll never forget seeing Goldie in 2017 doing his seminal Drum & Bass album Timeless live with the Heritage Orchestra.

Clara is a Project Zero ambassador; she has created a one-off charm with fine jewellery brand Loquet, with 100% of the proceeds going to the charity. weareprojectzero.org; loquetlondon.com

LAYLOW

CLARA’S CHARM FOR CHANGE AVAILABLE FROM LOQUET

BEST SECRET SPOT

There’s a little hidden thoroughfare that runs from Canonbury to Essex Road called The New River Walk. It’s a sliver of bucolic waterside scenery in the heart of north London.

THE RIVER WALK IN ISLINGTON

96

MY GLOSSARY 13.indd 96

05/05/2021 15:58

PARLEY 03_21.indd 1

30/04/2021 15:36

MESSIKA.COM

MESSIKA_THEGLOSSARY_0321.indd 1 MESSIKA 03_21.indd 1

15/03/2021 16/03/2021 12:11 14:29