The Glossary Summer 2021

FA S H I O N | B E A U T Y | H E A LT H | W E L L N E S S

A R T S | C U L T U R E | F O O D | D R I N K | T R AV E L | H O M E S

YOUR LONDON STYLE GUIDE

Olivia Palermo The original fashion influencer on the business of beauty

The LOVE issue C e l e b r a t i n g L o n d o n ’s bright new mood

PLUS: Andi & Miquita Oliver on RESTAURANTS Annie Doble’s IBIZA Alessandra Steinherr on SKINCARE Paula Sutton on INTERIORS & Natalie Imbruglia’s LONDON

ISSUE 14 HIGH SUMMER 2021 £5.00 02>

9 772515

660000

ROLEX IFC DPS ISSUE 14.indd 2

30/05/2021 17:24

ROLEX IFC DPS ISSUE 14.indd 3

30/05/2021 17:24

Th Y O U R LFOON UD O N STYLE GUIDE R T E E N

I S S U E

Arts & Culture

8 THE GLOSSARY EDIT

The season’s most joyful finds

9 AGENDA

London’s must-see exhibitions

16 CLUBLAND

A wave of new members clubs creating a buzz in town

Style

24 FASHION NOTES

Style updates and feel-good buys

26 THE RENTAL REVOLUTION

Meet the female founders leading the way in the fashion rental industry

34 THE IT-BAG EDIT

The must-have bags to covet

Watches & Jewellery 36 WATCH & JEWELLERY NOTES

The latest launches and stand-out pieces

38 COOL COUTURE

High jewellery highlights from Haute Couture Week

44 POP OF COLOUR

The dazzling timepieces to invest in

26

CONTENTS_14.indd 2

09/08/2021 22:16

CONTENTS High Summer 2021

Beauty & Wellness

38

48 BEAUTY NOTES

New products and trends to try

50 OLIVIA PALERMO

The influencer on launching a beauty brand and her love of London

58 THE SUNSCREEN GUIDE

Alessandra Steinherr’s ultimate suncare edit

61 ESCAPE ESSENTIALS

Beauty Director approved holiday hero products

62 SPRAY OF SUNSHINE

The new fragrances to spitz

Food & Drink

68 TASTING NOTES

The need-to-know new restaurants and bars across the capital

84

70 BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS

Hilary Armstrong reviews London’s most talked-about openings

76 OUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS

Andi and Miquita Oliver share their top dining spots

Travel

82 TRAVEL NOTES

New hotels and experiences across the globe

84 WHITE ISLE MAGIC

76

16

Annie Doble of Annie’s Ibiza reveals her go-to spots on the Balearic island

Home & Interiors 90 DESIGN NOTES

Interior design inspiration and ideas

92 COUNTRY PURSUITS

Interiors influencer Paula Sutton on personal style and positivity

Last Word

96 MY LONDON GLOSSARY

Natalie Imbruglia’s little black book of the capital

CONTENTS_14.indd 3

70

09/08/2021 22:16

DELLA VITE 03_21.indd 1

30/04/2021 13:43

Editor’s Letter

L

ondon is undergoing a renaissance. With so many openings across town, the sense of optimism that is reshaping the city is palpable and The Love Issue reflects this upbeat mood. We review the capital’s buzziest hotspots, from the forward-thinking members’ clubs, all new this season, to the standout launches in its ever-evolving restaurant scene. It is, indeed, a future that is brimming with energy and excitement.

This affirmative, transformative shift is taking place everywhere. In a world where we consume a staggering 80 billion pieces of clothing every year, we explore the Fashion Rental Revolution, a sustainable movement that is changing the way we dress and shop forever. We meet the savvy London-based women who are leading the charge and turning the industry on its head, from Victoria Prew, who established Hurr in 2018, to Rotaro founder Georgie Hyatt and Eshtita Kabra-Davies, whose By Rotation is the first ever social rental fashion app.

Meanwhile our cover star, entrepreneur and influencer Olivia Palermo, is building on her expanding empire and has turned her impeccable taste to beauty, launching her eponymous capsule make-up and skincare collection during the pandemic. She talks to us about the creative process, her style mantra and why she’ll always love Notting Hill.

Elsewhere, cool girl of fashion Annie Doble, founder of shop-of-the-moment Annie’s Ibiza in Soho and Ibiza, reveals her secret spots on the sun-kissed Balearic Isle. Closer to home, mother-and-daughter tour de force Andi and Miquita Oliver share their favourite places to eat in London, and Natalie Imbruglia opens her little black book to the capital.

Enjoy the issue.

Charlotte Adsett, Editorial Director

Edit

LEFT TO RIGHT: MANOLO BLAHNIK Satin Mules, £850; ASSOULINE Turquoise Coast Book, £70; PACO RABANNE Tote Bag, £530 EMILIO PUCCI Swimsuit, £370; HERMÈS Yachting Beach Towel, £225; ACQUA DI PARMA Arancia di Capri, £124 MESSIKA Turquoise Lucky Move PM Ring, £1,720; GIGI STUDIOS Elenora Sunglasses, £185

picks

H O L I DAY Edit

r’s

e

o

THE GLOSSARY TEAM

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett charlotte@theglossarymagazine.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR: Harriet Cooper harriet@theglossarymagazine.com CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Luciana Bellini luciana@theglossarymagazine.com WATCH & JEWELLERY EDITOR: Ming Liu ming@theglossarymagazine.com CONTRIBUTING BEAUTY DIRECTOR: Alessandra Steinherr CONTRIBUTING RESTAURANT EDITOR: Hilary Armstrong CONTRIBUTING INTERIORS EDITOR: Amy Moorea Wong CONTRIBUTORS: Rachel Ingram, Jess Kolham-Hohler, Lara Kilner, Olivia Lidbury, Livia Primo Lack ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle ray@theglossarymagazine.com PRODUCTION MANAGER: George Willis production@theglossarymagazine.com FINANCE MANAGER: Amanda Clayton accounts@theglossarymagazine.com SUBSCRIPTIONS: subscriptions@theglossarymagazine.com EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editorial@theglossarymagazine.com Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited, 3rd Floor, 86-90 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NE © 2021 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission.

The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to The Glossary magazine’s right to edit.

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M

WELCOME LETTER 14.indd 5

5

10/08/2021 06:17

Chasing Rainbows

Platform Wedges, £1,465 Salvatore Ferragamo have reissued their iconic multicolour wedges – originally created for Judy Garland in 1938 as a tribute to The Wizard of Oz’s signature song Somewhere Over The Rainbow. matchesfashion.com

Pool Party

Louis Vuitton’s pool collection – a mix of ombré beachwear and monogrammed bikinis – is the perfect capsule holiday wardrobe. louisvuitton.com

Edit The

Green Fingers

Messika by Kate Moss Malachite takes centre stage in Kate Moss’ statement ring for Messika. messika.com

Feel uplif ted w ith th i s s e a s o n ’s m o s t j o y f u l f i n d s

Make Waves

Wave Pitcher Jug, £170 Elevate your dining table and tap into the current wave craze with this Sophie Lou Jacobsen pitcher. lagent.com

Purple Reign

Alessandra Rich Autumn/Winter 21 Lavender is the fashion girl colour of choice right now. alessandrarich.com

That’s’’s The Spirit

Seventy One Gin, £140 Fashion photographer Mert Atlas has launched his own premium gin available exclusively at the Chiltern Firehouse. seventyonegin.com 6

THE GLOSSARY EDIT 14.indd 6

10/08/2021 08:32

Hot Seat

Dunloe Chair, £1,369 Upholstered in Eley Kishimoto's retro 'Spot On Waves' plush velvet, Soho Home's Dunloe chair was inspired by the West Hollywood club. sohohome.com

Bag It Up

Hawaii Stripe Tote Bag, £1,750 Get away with one of Gucci’s colourful woven totes. gucci.com

French Fancy

All White Now

Villa Noailles Candles, £58 Transport yourself to the hills of southeastern France with Diptyque's new lilac and rosemary candles inspired by the famous 1920s villa. diptyqueparis.com

Blanche Eau de Parfum, £188 The longstanding favourite from Byredo has been given an all-white update, perfectly capturing the fresh yet musky scent. byredo.com

More Joy

Towel, £120 Christopher Kane takes his positive affirmation to the beach with this monochromatic towel. brownsfashion.com

Sheer Glass

Windsor and Somerset Glasses, £870 Reflections Copenhagen's theatrical glasses put a kaleidoscopic spin on traditional English design. matchesfashion.com

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M

THE GLOSSARY EDIT 14.indd 7

7

10/08/2021 07:04

The Regent’s Park & online at frieze.com/viewingroom Tickets available at the end of August

Discover the best contemporary art from around the world

FRIEZE LONDON 13–17 OCTOBER, 2021

Global media partner

FREEZE ART FAIR ISSUE 14.indd 1

Global lead partner Deutsche Bank

10/08/2021 11:37

Photo: Alexander Liberman © J. Paul Getty Trust, Getty Research Institute, Los Angeles

HELEN FRANKENTHALER GAGOSIAN GROSVENOR HILL

Until 18 S e pte mb e r Abstract expressionist Helen Frankenthaler – pictured here in her studio on East 83rd Street, New York, 1974 – played a pivotal role in postwar American painting, enjoying a six-decade career from the 1950s until her death in 2011. Imagining Landscapes brings together 13 of her seminal paintings, all of which reference landscape and are remarkable in their variety of colour and line. gagosian.com

W H A T ’S O N & W H E R E

B y

H A R R I E T

C O O P E R

The Magic Flute R OYA L O P E R A H O U S E

©ROH 2017. Photograph by Tristram Kenton

Jan Matejko, The Astronomer Copernicus. Conversations with God, 1873. Photo by Grzegorz Zygier

15 S e pte mb e r – 7 O ctob e r

Mozart’s The Magic Flute – a fantastical tale that weaves together romance and comedy, darkness and light – has been captivating audiences since 1791. Director David McVicar’s spectacular take on the timeless classic is no different, returning for its tenth revival at the Royal Opera House. As the main stage comes alive with dancing animals, flying machines and starry skies, expect to be enchanted and enraptured in equal measure. roh.org.uk

Jan Matejko

Copernicus Until 3 0 Aug ust

T H E N AT I O N A L GA L L E R Y A rare opportunity to see the Polish masterpiece Astronomer Copernicus, which is on loan from one of Europe’s oldest universities, Jagiellonian University in Kraków. The enormous painting is by the 19th century artist Jan Matejko – widely regarded as the national painter of Poland – and depicts fellow countryman, mathematician and astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus, known for his theory, published in 1543, that the sun is the centre of the solar system. nationalgallery.org.uk

Light Years:

The Photographers' Gallery at 50

THE PHOTOGRAPHERS GALLERY

Until 1 Febr uar y 2 022

The Photographers’ Gallery is marking its 50th anniversary with a four-part exhibition – curated by academic and broadcaster David Brittain – exploring both key moments in the Gallery’s history and the landscape of photography.

The first installment Photojournalism: a worthy art for a new gallery, which runs until 8 August, celebrates the inaugural years, with the three subsequent displays looking at commercial photography, artistic developments, and the links between technological and aesthetic innovation. thephotographersgallery.org.uk

10

AGENDA 14.indd 10

08/08/2021 23:47

Susi Korihana thëri swimming, Catrimani, 1972-1974. Infrared �ilm

Until 2 Januar y 2 022

A riveting exploration into the relationship between fashion designer and royal client, offering a peek into the illustrious world of ateliers and how they helped shape the public image of the British monarchy. Stars of the show include Diana, Princess of Wales’s wedding dress and an 18th centurystyle gown designed by Oliver Messel for Princess Margaret, which are displayed alongside unseen photographs, fabric swatches and original sketches by Sir Norman Hartnell and Bellville Sassoon. hrp.org.uk

Fashion sketch of Diana, Princess of Wales’s caring dress by David Sasson.

Dress designed by Bellville Sassoon, 1988. © Historic Royal Palaces – Bellville Sassoon

18th-century style gown worn

by Princess Margaret. Royal Collection Trust © 2nd Earl of Snowdon and Lady Sarah Chatto

Davi Kopenawa at the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain, Paris, 2020

K E N S I N GTO N PA L AC E

CLAUDIA ANDUJAR

THE YANOMAMI STRUGGLE BARBICAN ART GALLERY

Until 29 Aug ust Since the 1970s, Sao Paulo-based photographer and activist Claudia Andujar has tirelessly defended the rights and documented the lives of the Yanomami, one of Brazil’s largest indigineous peoples. This exhibition, which brings together over 200 of Andajur’s photographs as well as drawings by Yanomami, not only highlights her commitment to both art and activism, but also serves as a very timely reminder of the climate emergency that affects the Amazon rainforest and its inhabitants. barbican.org.uk

Aracá, Amazonas / Surucucus, From the Marked series, Roraima State, Brazil, 1983

Norman Hartnell for Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother © Historic Royal Palaces

ROYAL STYLE IN THE MAKING

T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

AGENDA 14.indd 11

11

08/08/2021 23:47

Clockwise from top left: Royal bust, about 439-57 © The Sarikhani Collection; Sirak Melkonian, Veiled Woman, 1957. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London; Horoscope of Iskandar Sultan, 1411 © Wellcome Collection; Monir Shahroudy Farmanfarmaian, Untitled, 1974 © Estate of Monir Shahroudy Farmanfarmaian; Shirin Aliabadi, Miss Hybrid #3, 2008. Photograph © Estate of Shirin Aliabadi.

Epic Iran

VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM

Until 12 S e pte mb e r

SOPHIE TAEUBER-ARP TAT E M O D E R N

Until 17 O ctob e r

One of the most innovative of the 20th century avant-garde movement, Sophie Taeuber-Arp was forever challenging boundaries. The interdisciplinary Swiss artist was an accomplished painter, architect, teacher, writer and designer, and this exhibition – the first to trace Taeuber-Arp’s career trajectory – collates more than 200 pieces to help us truly understand what a trailblazer she was. tate.org.uk

Clockwise from top left: Nicolai Aluf, Sophie Taeuber with her Dada head, 1920; Vase Bearer, c. 1916–25; Composition of Circles and Overlapping Angles, 1930; Stag (marionette for ‘King Stag’) 1918; Perlbeutal, c. 1917; Flight: Round Relief in Three Heights, 1937

It’s been 90 years since the UK last saw an exhibition exploring Iranian art, design and culture from 3000 BC to the present day. This long overdue show delves into the V&A’s extensive archive, alongside major loans, to explore an ancient civilisation and its journey across the millenia into the 21st century. Visitors are transported to an Iranian city, where they’ll be able to view ancient artefacts through to modern and contemporary pieces. vam.ac.uk

12

AGENDA 14.indd 12

08/08/2021 23:49

MICHAEL ARMITAGE

Clockwise from top left: Michael Armitage, The Paradise Edict, 2019; Sane Wadu, My life, 1980-1990; Meek Gichugu, Untitled (Brother Wise Hooking Wisdom & Freedom), c.1992; The Chicken Thief, 2019; Elimo Njau, Dream Landscape, 1968; Asaph Ng’ethe Macua, When the Men Took Power From Women, Undated

Mechanical tree prototype for direct capture of carbon dioxide from the air, designed and built by Klaus Lackner’s team at the Centre for Negative Carbon Emissions, Arizona State University, Tempe, Arizona, USA, 2017 © Science Museum Group

A R T S & C U LT U R E

PA R A D I S E E D I C T R OYA L AC A D E M Y

Until 19 S e pte mb e r

OUR FUTURE PLANET

SCIENCE MUSEUM

Until 4 S e pte mb e r 2 022 In the run-up to the 2021 United Nations Climate Change Conference in November, this exhibition takes visitors on a thought-provoking journey to look at the cutting-edge technologies and nature-based solutions developed by scientists in the race to remove excess carbon dioxide from the earth’s atmosphere, whether that be preserving ancient woodlands or installing systems that prevent CO2 from leaving power stations and factories in the first place. sciencemuseumgroup.org.uk

Working between Nairobi and London, Kenyan-born artist Michael Armitage’s dreamlike works – which he paints on Lubugo barkcloth made in Uganda – explore East African politics, culture and society, both past and present.

This show brings together 15 of his large-scale paintings, displayed alongside 31 further works by six contemporary artists, chosen by Armitage not just for their impact on his own work but for their role in shaping figurative painting in Kenya. royalacademy.org.uk

DODGE

SOMERSET HOUSE Dodge 2021 Birds Eye Scene © Yinka Ilori

Until 22 Aug ust Somerset House’s 18th century courtyard has been transformed into a joyful spectacle of colour, sound and energy by the artist and designer Yinka Ilori. Ride the rainbow-hued dodgems, where every thump and bump triggers explosive new material from Mercury Prize shortlisted musician Anna Meredith and Baftawinning sound artist Nick Ryan. An open-air immersive art installation by Ilori and a food pop-up helmed by chef Jimmy Garcia complete the kaleidoscopic, futuristic fun. somersethouse.org.uk

T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

AGENDA 14.indd 13

13

08/08/2021 23:49

Ayo Akingbade, Fire in My Belly, 2021

AYO AKINGBADE WH ITEC HAPEL GALLERY

Until 15 Aug ust

The artist and filmmaker Ayo Akingbade presents A Glittering City, two films which delve into the ideas of place and belonging, public space and gentrification.

Akingbade’s documentary Fire In My Belly (2021) marks the culmination of a six-month collaboration with Whitechapel Gallery's youth collective Duchamp & Sons, and deep dives into the issue of ‘community’. While Dear Babylon (2019) is a film essay that follows art students as they investigate the future of social housing. whitechapelgallery.org

Ayo Akingbade, Dear Babylon, 2019

Gerhard Richter

From left to right: Gerhard Richter 15.11.2017; Gerhard Richter 24. Juli 2020; Gerhard Richter 22. Juli 2020

H AY WA R D GA L L E R Y

9 S e pte mb e r – 12 D ece mb e r Although German contemporary artist Gerhard Richter is best known for his realistic and abstract paintings, over the course of his six-decade career his oeuvre has included other mediums, not least his drawings. This show brings together more than 60 works on paper from 1999 onwards, including a new series created at the end of last year and the beginning of 2021, as well as rarely-seen works created using coloured inks.

southbankcentre.co.uk

14

AGENDA 14.indd 14

08/08/2021 23:49

A R T S & C U LT U R E

JOUR NEYS

D U LWI C H PI C T U RE GALLERY

Until 22 Aug ust This latest display from the Gallery delves into the nature of migration from the 17th century to the present day, by looking at the contemporary relevance of paintings by artists including Poussin, Canaletto, Pynacker and van de Velde. The exhibition has been co-curated by a group of Community Curators, who have tapped into their own personal stories and experiences of migration, spanning eight countries including Yemen, Sri Lanka, Italy, Pakistan and Ireland.

Clockwise from top left: Canaletto (Giovanni Antonio Canal), A View of Walton Bridge, 1754, Dulwich Picture Gallery; Nicolas Poussin, The Return of the Holy Family from Egypt, c.1628-38, Dulwich Picture Gallery; Willem van de Velde the younger, A Brisk Breeze, c.1665, Dulwich Picture Gallery

dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk

NO COMPLY SOMERSET HOUSE

Until 19 S e pte mb e r

Clockwise from top left: Mike Arnold, Ollie, Bristol 2014. © Reece Leung; Here to Win, © Katie Edwards; Jørn Tomter, Hackney Bumps, London 2020 © Jørn Tomter

Anyone who knows their kickflip from their goofyfoot (and indeed those who don’t) will enjoy this dynamic exhibition which celebrates the country’s skateboarding scene.

Divided into three themes – the city as a playground, skateboard culture and skate communities – the show brings together film, art, fashion, design and photography, all of which help us understand the subculture’s ethos and its enduring credibility. somersethouse.org.uk

T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

AGENDA 14.indd 15

15

08/08/2021 23:49

CLUBLAND From the renaissance of an ethical members’ club in Covent Garden to the opening of an arts-focused hub in Clerkenwell, these are the openings to know about this season W o r d s H A R R I E T C O O P E R, LU C I A N A B E L L I N I & R AC H E L I N G R A M

Sessions Arts Club

I

The Old Sessions House, 24 Clerkenwell Green, Farringdon, EC1 sessionsartsclub.com

t’s taken six years of meticulous restoration overseen by Swedish brothers Ted and Oliver Grebelius of Satila Studios, but Sessions Arts Club – which opens this summer – has been worth the wait. Housed on the fourth floor of 18th-century former courthouse Old Sessions House, in the heart of Clerkenwell, the unique space has been transformed into an elegant restaurantmeets-wine bar-meets-gallery.

Founded on the cornerstones of art, food and music, the club is the brainchild of artist Jonny Gent; Jon Spiteri, one of the founders of the much-loved and revered St John

restaurant; architect Russell Potter, who has worked with Soho House and Polpo Group; and the Grebelius brothers.

With such illustrious names on board, this city sanctuary was always going to be a standout. And indeed it is. Interiors are stripped back; think distressed walls, stucco collonades, scrubbed wooden floorboards and original fireplaces. Chandeliers, a piano and mismatched furniture, much of it sourced from markets and salvage yards, add to the aesthetic. “I worked very closely with Russell Potter who more than anyone understands the poetry of space,” reveals Gent. “I’m just as intrigued by the raw as the polished.

The intention was always to dress it as

16

NEW CLUBS 14.indd 16

11/08/2021 12:46

Florence Knight and Jonny Gent

I would dress my studio – I’m not too concerned with the unfinished. In my work and in our spaces – I think it’s good to see the practice and thought often more than a finished idea.”

The airy gallery and performance space is the perfect setting for the club’s progressive line-up of exhibitions, workshops and events that run the gamut of art, fashion, music, wellness and theatre. “Sessions Arts Club isn’t static, it isn’t a gallery,” insists Gent. “It’s a place for the mix between art, food and life. It doesn’t pause.”

Joining Gent on the Art Committee are Darren Flook, founder and director of Freehouse, an art gallery in east London, and David Southard, founder

and director of Southard Reid, an art gallery formerly in Soho. “We wanted the art to be layered via the social and physical space in a unique environment where every week is an opening. Art will build up, stories and nights, music and dinners, the hope for the space is that over time work will be added, moved, commissioned and occasionally sold,” he explains.

“As for our first group of works, the first three artists we asked to respond to the space were women working in photography, Robin Graubard; sculpture, Gabriele Beveridge; and painting, Milly Thompson. There will be other pieces – my studio is underneath the restaurant so the odd Gent piece

T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

NEW CLUBS 14.indd 17

might make the walls,” he teases. “We are currently inviting artists to see the space, think about what they’d like to do.

It’s both new to them and new to us,” he admits. “The invited artists reflect the diversity and energy of the city of London in 2021. What you can expect from us in the future is excellence, pleasure and things that make us think.

Things that touch us.”

Florence Knight, formerly head chef of Polpetto in Soho, makes her much-anticipated return to the capital’s dining scene, bringing her pared-back, seasonal style to the Art Club’s kitchen. Dishes are delicate in their execution – grilled friggitelli with sea salt, sea bream, fig leaf and sorrel, or pork belly cooked with fennel & orange, or lamb sweetbreads with lettuce and lovage, followed by apricot ripple ice cream. The wine list is equally noteworthy, curated by Terry Kandylis, with Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew, the owners of Noble Rot. Light floods through huge arched windows into the 60-seater dining room, where the green leather banquettes are a nod to the fact this space was originally the judge’s eating quarters. The horse-shoe shaped bar and mezzanine are digestif territory, though on balmy days, the elegant roof terrace, marble bar and infinity rooftop pool are delightful. And with no membership required for this Club, everyone’s invited.

17

11/08/2021 12:46

180 The Strand 180 Strand, Westminster, WC2

I

sohohouse.com

t may be Brutalist from the outside, but behind the doors of 180 The Strand, the aesthetic is anything but. This is comfortable luxe at its best. Not surprising when you learn that Nick Jones and his Soho House team have taken over all nine floors of the building, transforming the former office block into a dynamic cultural hub.

That’s not to say that the building – designed in the early 1970s by the architect Sir Frederick Gibberd – has lost all of its period details. Far from it. Many of the original window structures, for example, have been left exposed, and there’s a structuralist vibe throughout.

Soho House knows how to do a chic rooftop pool and this one, on the building’s ninth floor, is no exception.

Tiled in dark blue-glazed lava stone, it’s the perfect spot for catching up with friends over a Negroni cocktail and admiring the views over the Thames and the Houses of Parliament.

The poolside restaurant, with its floor-to-ceiling windows, stainless steel bar and 1970s-inspired furniture created by Soho House Design offers an all-day menu and late-night snacks, while the outdoor terrace and DJ booth add to the party potential.

As with all the Houses, art is front and foremost throughout and Soho House Head of Collections Kate Bryan has worked her magic again, with more than 150 striking artworks on display.

Paintings and drawings from the Soho Self touring collection of selfportraits, by such luminaries as Maggi Hambling, Lynette Yiadom-Boakye and

Megan Rooney, sit alongside newer acquisitions by Yinka Ilori, Alexandria Coe and Cherelle Sappleton.

A huge double wall installation – made up of 70 brightly framed works – on the rooftop is a scene-stealer, serving as a poignant reminder of the pandemic. There’s Christabel Blackburn’s depiction of socially distanced queues for supermarkets in the rain; Kemi Onabule’s paintings of wild dancing; and poem paintings such as Gommie’s “if you like you can just snog me and then drop me off at the hospital”.

The main members’ space, spread across the floor below, is a vision of lacquered paint, shag-pile rugs and leather bar, surely a homage to the building’s 1970s heritage; so too the dining room, with its geometric carpet, mohair banquettes and mirrored ceiling.

Floors one to seven are dedicated to Soho Works, a network of terrazzo floored, vintage-furnished spaces designed for collaboration and creativity, from hot desks to

18

NEW CLUBS 14.indd 18

11/08/2021 12:46

The Curtain Club 45 Curtain Road, Shoreditch, EC2

F boardrooms. Soho Health Club, due to open later this year, will offer cuttingedge equipment, class-based workouts and treatments, from infra-red saunas to cryogenic chambers.

180 Studio – on the ground floor – is an ever-evolving, buzzing space with a bike workshop, pop-up restaurant, cafe and shady garden, all of which are open to both members and Soho Friends, the newest membership tier. An urban bolthole for creative souls.

sbe.com

ormerly known as The Curtain hotel, the Reuben Brothers-owned Mondrian Shoreditch is already being heralded as one of the capital’s hottest unveils of 2021, marking the slick brand’s muchanticipated return to London.

The design is by Goddard Littlefair (recent restorations include The Mayfair Townhouse and Gleneagles in Scotland) so, as you’d expect, interiors are witty and imaginative across the 120 rooms, the reception, lobby, double-height ground-floor bar, all-day cafe and cocktail bar Christina’s Shoreditch, and BiBo, Michelin-starred Dani García’s tapas restaurant.

Those in the know, however, will want to take the lift to the upper floors, where the design studio has worked its magic at The Curtain Members’ Club, which throws its doors open again on 1 September, welcoming forward-thinking and progressive members (membership is £1,000 per annum or £100 a month, with a one-off joining fee of £350).

Though it's kept its moniker, the club has undergone a sparkling

T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

NEW CLUBS 14.indd 19

refresh. Not least in the revamped Rose Bar and Lounge, where a rose gold ceiling and pillars glimmer alongside jewel-hued velvet furnishings and wood panelled walls, giving the space an Art Deco feel.

It’s on this floor you’ll find the gym, where 24-hour access for members comes as standard.

Higher still, Altitude, the rooftop restaurant and bar, is open to hotel guests for breakfast, and then members have exclusive run of the place after that. For sky-high cocktails, a Baja Californian menu from chef Joost Bijster and a chilled-out Balearic soundtrack, it’s hard to beat.

Especially when you throw a swimming pool into the mix.

Members will also have exclusive access to The Design Studio from 8am to 6pm, a co-working space on the ground floor which while catering to business needs, is equally designed as an environment to harbour flair and creativity with big sofas and a bar.

It’s here that exclusive members’ events will take place, from panel discussions to artistic pop-ups, live performances and wellness workshops.

19

11/08/2021 12:46

Pavilion Club

64 Knightsbridge, Knightsbridge, SW1 pavilion.club

T

hink of Knightsbridge and you’re likely to conjure up images of grand department stores and even grander hotels.

But refined members’ clubs?

Less so. That’s all about to change, though, with the arrival of Pavilion. Tucked away next to the Mandarin Oriental, this latest opening marks the first private members’ club from the group, who also run refined business clubs in Kensington and the City, and aim to change the way Londoners work and play.

A clever combination of private office spaces and beautifully designed lounges, bars and terraces, with membership £150 a month and private offices from £2,200, there’s a lot to like here. Firstly,

the location – not many members’ clubs can say their roof terrace offers panoramic views over Hyde Park, with power breakfasts and long lunches punctuated by the occasional passing horse. With its barbecue pit, fully stocked bar and canopy of lush greenery, this is set to be the beating heart of the club.

Then there’s the food.

Pavilion have appointed Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge into the kitchen, his first time collaborating with a members’ club, to create a seasonal all-day dining menu and it doesn’t disappoint. Deceptively

20

NEW CLUBS 14.indd 20

11/08/2021 12:46

simple, each of the dishes champion leading British suppliers, whether it’s the dressed Cornish crab with radish and apple or the venison chilli with lime crème fraiche. The menu has been designed as a range of sharing platters and bowls, all the better for swapping big ideas over.

The interiors are no less impressive. Designed by Russell Sage Studio, the team behind The Goring and The Cadogan Belmond Hotel, they’re opulent without being showy – think velvet tasselled stools, ruby red meeting rooms and chinoiserie wallpaper. There are also plenty of touches that hark back to the building’s history. Originally built for the London & County Bank back in 1884, Sage has echoed the venue’s first decades of glory through timber inlays, mosaic floor tiling and traces of copper and brass ironmongery, all mingling with leafy planters and rattan furniture to create a space that perfectly marries modern style with art deco accents.

If this is the future of business, it’s looking bright.

The Conduit

6 Langley Street, Covent Garden, WC2

W

theconduit.com

hen The Conduit in Mayfair closed last autumn, it came as a surprise to many. After all, the private members’ club had only opened two years previously. And yet, it is back, welcoming its 3,000-plus members to a new site on Langley Street in WC2 in August. “Covent Garden is a really good metaphor for The Conduit because it’s a trading hub and it has entrepreneurship and culture,” explains CCO Paul van Zyl, who co-founded the club with financier Nicholas Hamilton. “It’s a logical place to be.”

The club is founded on the belief that by bringing together a collaborative community it can accelerate solutions to the world's greatest challenges. Anyone is invited to apply for membership (£1,800 per annum, £1,200 for under-33s), as long as they’re passionate about positive social change. Judging by The Conduit’s ambassadors – which include writer and broadcaster Afua Hirsch, journalist Razia Iqbal and June Sarpong OBE – the club is off to a flying start.

These admirable values feed into everything at the club, from the Russell Sage Studio decor to the

cuisine. “We sourced goods from artisans around the world, such as tiles from South Africa, baskets from Swaziland, while the food and beverage supply chain pushes the boundaries in terms of sustainability,” van Zyl explains. The club’s kitchen is one of the first to adopt a zero singleuse plastic policy and the menu at both the public-facing restaurant and the members’ rooftop restaurant and terrace is 75% vegetarian.

Across the six floors, areas have been designated for members to meet and engage in networking; there’s also a bookshop and a podcast studio. The focus is on both a face-to-face and digital programme of events, which in the past has seen industry leaders and Nobel Prize winners such as Christiane Amanpour and Al Gore give exclusive talks.

But it’s not all work and no play.

Wine pairing evenings and culinary tastings are on the agenda and The Conduit will be bringing back its popular chef programme, which has previously hosted Massimo Bottura, Søren Westh and Claudette Zepeda. Yoga and dance classes are also in the pipeline.

“In order to create a sustainable world, you have to sustain yourself.

This means building a network, forming relationships and experiencing joy and comfort,” van Zyl says.

T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

NEW CLUBS 14.indd 21

21

11/08/2021 12:46

GIGISTUDIOS.COM

GIGI STUDIOS.indd 4

06/08/2021 13:21

STYLE G-FORCE Founded in 1984, Hunza was the name behind the iconic cut-out mini dress Julia Roberts wore in Pretty Woman.

Relaunched 30 years later as Hunza G under Creative Director Georgiana Huddart, the London-based brand creates swimwear from its signature seersucker stretchy fabric. The designs are size-inclusive, and they’re also sustainably made – locally produced in the Midlands and hand finished in the capital, with any leftover fabric transformed into accessories to ensure nothing goes to waste. hunzag.com

FASHION OPENER 14.indd 23

09/08/2021 14:00

Fashion Notes

Earrings as art, bags made from regenerated fabric and the return of the maximalist heel C o m p i l e d b y C H A R LOT T E A DS E T T

PRINTS CHARMING

FAN GIRL

If fashion with a side of fun is on your radar, we’ve got excellent news: the statement fan is the accessory of the season.

From pineapples and peacock feathers to watermelons that look good enough to eat, Pubumésu’s handmade leather creations are a must for all your soirées. £135; farfetch.com

Nicky and Simone Zimmermann, the sisters behind Australian resort and swimwear brand Zimmermann, cite the synergy between fashion and music as the inspiration behind their AW21 collection ‘In Concert’.

With an emphasis on optimism, the label’s signature ruffles and floaty dresses come with exaggerated collars and voluminous sleeves in bold floral prints, while the embellished detailing adds to the rock ‘n’ roll bohemian vibe.

zimmermannwear.com

SHOES LIKE JAGGER

Saint Laurent pays lip service to the inimitable style of 1970s icon Bianca Jagger with its signature Bianca sandals. Designed with a retro print and vertiginous platform, they’re an unashamedly joyful way to herald the (long-awaited) return of the maximalist heel. £660; matchesfashion.com

Reuse & Reimagine

FLASHBACK FLORALS Liberty’s ‘Print with Purpose’ bag collection sees the department store’s heritage floral prints translated onto a recycled base, created using respun yarn from discarded clothing and industrial waste.

The sustainable, fully reversible capsule includes the Betsy Recycled Tote Bag (£235) – a reimagining of the archival 1930s Betsy design. libertylondon.com

Sterling Creations

New York-based jewellery designer Sterling King, known for her bold, sculptural pieces, has created an exclusive collection of ten designs in vibrant metallic shades and fluidlike shapes for Browns Fashion and Farfetch.

Stand out with these aqua and cobalt blue Inside Out earrings, accented with a dazzling teardrop crystal. £360; brownsfashion.com

24

FASHION NOTES 14.indd 24

11/08/2021 12:49

MAKING WAVES

Parley for the Oceans, the global initiative to end plastic pollution, has teamed up with singer and artist M.I.A to launch a limited-edition range of sunglasses, all of them made entirely from repurposed marine waste and discarded fishing debris.

The Clean Waves collection of oversized, futuristic eyewear features interchangeable Zeiss lenses in contrasting colours, with all profits helping to preserve our oceans. cleanwaves.com

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FAS H I O N

FASHION NOTES 14.indd 25

Wool jacket, £1,150

Wool jacket, £1,250

PINNED DOWN When Lady Gaga stepped out in Schiaparelli at Joe Biden’s inauguration, it was her gilded brooch of a dove carrying an olive branch to represent peace and hope that stole the show. The fashion house has now launched a version of the symbolic accessory, available to buy at Dover Street Market, with proceeds going to Gaga’s Born This Way Foundation to support teenage mental health.

From £590; doverstreetmarket.com

25

11/08/2021 12:49

The

Fashion Revolution The fashion industry is in dire need of a sustainable makeover – and these pioneering London-based rental brands are leading the way to a greener future W o r d s LU C I A N A B E L L I N I I m a g e ROTA RO

I

t’s no secret that the fashion industry is in crisis. By now, we’re all too aware of the devastating impact it’s having on the planet, as well as the depressing numbers that accompany that fact. The fashion industry accounts for around 10% of global carbon emissions and nearly 20% of wastewater, sucking up more energy than both aviation and shipping combined. Globally, we consume 80 billion pieces of clothing every year and currently have enough clothes on the planet to dress the next six generations. Something has to change, and fast. Cue the fashion rental revolution: spearheaded by a group of super savvy, London-based female entrepreneurs, it’s set to change the way we dress and shop forever.

The arrival of wardrobes for hire was the next logical step after the

phenomenal success of the sharing economy, which made household names out of Airbnb and Uber. If you’ll happily rent a stranger’s home or jump in their car, why not borrow their clothes? A chic crop of businesses letting you do just that soon landed on the scene, like Hurr, a platform that allows you to rent sought-after pieces from brands including Rixo, Ganni and Gucci, and My Wardrobe HQ, which features new and past season designer items straight from the closets of some of London’s most stylish women, such as Alice Naylor-Leyland and Poppy Delevingne.

While many of these brands have been around for a few years, the sector took on a new lease of life during the pandemic. As traditional retail went into freefall, the second-hand market was booming, partly as a reaction against fast fashion and partly down to the sense of community many of these apps and businesses fostered.

Hurr reported an 850% year-on-year growth from the start of the pandemic, while peer-to-peer fashion rental app

By Rotation has seen a 750% increase in bookings since the beginning of the year. Then there’s the ‘Carrie effect’, with many attributing the recent

26

FASHION RENTAL_v2.indd 26

12/08/2021 12:30

STYLE

“Renting fashion allows us to change our consumption habits by buying less, buying better, and sharing what is already in circulation" E shita Kabra-Davie s

By Rotation

sharp rise in rentals to the fact that Carrie Symonds hired her exquisitely embroidered Costarellos wedding dress from My Wardrobe HQ, along with several of the key looks she wore during this summer’s G7 Summit in Cornwall. Suddenly, spending several thousand pounds on a bridal gown or a look that will likely only be worn once seemed ludicrously old-fashioned.

But not everyone thinks rental is the answer to fashion’s sustainability problems. A recent study in Finland revealed that renting clothes can actually be worse for the planet than throwing them away, due to the large

amount of transportation and drycleaning involved with each transaction.

However, several key figures in the industry were quick to point out that the study’s assumptions did not reflect the reality of the rental market in the UK, where companies strive to be as green as possible. My Wardrobe HQ, for example, uses cycle couriers and electric vans for their deliveries, as well as wet cleaning and liquid CO² cleaning to avoid the environmental impact of dry cleaning, while By Rotation doesn’t engage in dry-cleaning or deliveries at all, instead advising their customers to clean and deliver items themselves using T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / ST Y L E

FASHION RENTAL_v2.indd 27

their eco-friendly partnering solutions.

“Renting fashion allows us to change our consumption habits by buying less, buying better, and sharing what is already in circulation,” says By Rotation founder Eshita Kabra-Davies. “I firmly believe that circular solutions such as resale and peerto-peer rental will be our way out.”

Perhaps the surest sign that rental fashion is here to stay is the investment by luxury brands. French luxury group Kering, who own Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta, recently announced a significant investment in London-based high-end bag rental subscription service Cocoon, where you can hire totes and clutches by the likes of Chanel, Prada and Dior.

Then there’s the fact that some of the world’s most prestigious department stores have started to welcome rental businesses through their doors: Harrods has partnered with My Wardrobe HQ on their first ever rental edit, featuring feathered Huishan Zhang gowns and Rotate Birger Christensen mini dresses, while Hurr launched a pop-up space in Selfridges’ Contemporary Studio in February that not only became a permanent fixture, it also led the Oxford Street behemoth to launch its own digital designer fashion rental service, Selfridges Rental. Facilitated by Hurr, the service features key pieces from the current season hand-picked by the store’s expert buying team, which means you can now hire womenswear, menswear and accessories straight from the new collections of leading designers such as Burberry, Simone Rocha and Dries Van Noten, as well as emerging cult brands.

It’s a huge step forward for the rental industry, which until now has focused mainly on past season statement pieces.

But with the industry estimated to reach £2.3 billion by 2029, it’s no surprise everyone wants a piece of the action.

27

12/08/2021 12:30

The

Fashion Revolution

Meet the five female founders who are on a mission to make fashion’s sustainability crisis a thing of the past

VICTORIA PREW

Hurr

hurrcollective.com

“A

s a millennial, I’m of a generation that doesn’t question shared ownership – I’ve witnessed the rise of disruptive tech first-hand,” says Hurr founder and CEO Victoria Prew. Recognised as one of Drapers “30 under 30”, the forwardthinking 28-year-old tipped the fashion industry on its head when she launched

the brand in 2018, becoming the first to tap into the booming circular economy. A former chartered surveyor at property agent Knight Frank, Prew abandoned the corporate world to build the peer-to-peer wardrobe rental platform from scratch, starting with one line of code in a basement in Shoreditch. Hurr now works with more than 75 design partners, has more than 7,000 pieces available to rent and 115,000 users.

This is the place to come for of-themoment looks, whether you’re looking to snap up Lirika Matoshi’s Insta-viral strawberry-print dress for the weekend or a pair of psychedelic House of Sunny flares teamed with a Jacquemus bag for your next staycation.

“As a millennial, I’m of a generation that doesn’t question shared ownership – I’ve witnessed the rise of disruptive tech first-hand"

The platform is home to a community of uber-stylish London taste-makers – dubbed ‘Hurr Girls’ – which includes Amelia Windsor, Venetia Falconer and Kim Hersov. The site also cleverly splits its stock into tightly curated edits depending on the occasion or time of year, with ‘wedding guest’ and ‘plus size’ two of the most searched lists.

While Prew started out in a bid to shake up the fashion industry, she was also on a mission to make it more sustainable. “In the UK alone, customers spend £2.7 billion on outfits they wear just once,” she says. “The industry is under pressure to do better and Hurr provides all of the shortcuts to a sustainable wardrobe.” Every part of their end-to-end rental process has been thoroughly thought out, from encouraging local collection and in-app communication to avoid unnecessary shipping, to their newly launched carbon calculator in partnership with

CoGo, which shows they’ve helped save the equivalent in carbon of 8,000 trees being cut down or 1.2 million miles driven in a car.

The pioneering brand opened the UK’s first fashion rental pop-up in Belgravia in 2019 before launching their second in Selfridges earlier this year, which featured coveted pieces by the likes of Rixo, Ganni and Mara Hoffman. It proved so successful the department store has adopted it as a permanent fixture, Selfridges Rental, which offers current season stock for hire at a fraction of the retail price.

Not one to rest on her laurels, Prew is currently fundraising and plans to expand internationally next year, while also aiming to double her team size in the next month. “We’ve now proven our product-market fit and have ambitious plans to turn Hurr into a fashion rental unicorn in the future,” she says.

28

FASHION RENTAL_v2.indd 28

12/08/2021 12:30

ESHITA KABRA-DAVIES

By Rotation

B

byrotation.com

illed as the world’s first social rental fashion app, community is at the heart of everything By Rotation does. “Given my own background as a third culture kid, with roots in India, Singapore, the US and the UK, it was important for me to create something very inclusive,” explains founder Eshita Kabra-Davies. “I wanted to make it all about the regular consumer, as opposed to just fashion insiders.” The idea came about while she was planning what to wear for her honeymoon in India.

After researching the global fashion rental landscape and discovering firsthand the impact of textile waste in her hometown of Rajasthan, she set out to create a dedicated platform for fashion lovers where they could rotate what they owned with each other.

The app quickly garnered a cult following, perfectly tapping into the Gen-Z zeitgeist. They now have more than 85,000 users on board, including several high-profile influencers like Camille Charriere, Monikh Dale and Abisola Omole, and recently hosted their first physical pop-up at Westfield, which also featured rentable furniture and homewares from Studio Arva, from up-cycled sofas to the infamous Ultrafragola mirror.

But the real draw, according to Kabra-Davies, is the sense of friendship fostered through the app. Here’s a place you can rent the latest Daily Sleeper set or Dior Saddle bag and make a new pal in the process. It was this community spirit that convinced both dating app

Bumble and new motherhood meet-up platform Peanut to partner with By Rotation within its first year of launch.

“We find that this human interaction – actually talking to someone who has worn the item and can tell you how it feels – is incomparable,” says Kabra-Davies.

“There’s this feeling of camaraderie that goes beyond just a transactional exchange, and that’s something that is hard to emulate.”

“There’s this feeling of camaraderie that goes beyond just a transactional exchange, and that’s something that is hard to emulate" T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / ST Y L E

FASHION RENTAL_v2.indd 29

29

12/08/2021 12:30

STYLE

30

FASHION RENTAL_v2.indd 30

12/08/2021 12:30

SACHA NEWALL & TINA LAKE

My Wardrobe HQ

I

mywardrobehq.com

t all started with a lightbulb moment. “I was working in the car sharing industry at the time and, for every one car shared, 11 are taken off the road,” says My Wardrobe HQ co-founder Sacha Newall. “I realised that if we were to apply this metric to the fashion industry, it would start to solve the oversupply that is currently causing such environmental problems.” The idea was further cemented after a chance encounter with Tina Lake, the founder of successful e-tailer London-Boutiques; the pair decided to join forces, bringing retail guru and former Whistles chief executive Jane Shepherdson on board as chair and launching in 2019.

Billed as the UK’s first fashion rental and resale marketplace, this is a onestop shop for all your luxury secondhand needs: if you happen to fall in love with that eye-catching piece you hired for a special occasion, here you can actually buy it. None of MWHQ’s stock is bought in – instead, they work directly with style-savvy individuals and exclusive brand partners who are looking to make the most of their surplus pieces. Their huge inventory comes from over 500 designers, with big names such as Stella McCartney, Chanel and Prada on their books, as well as smaller British labels such as House of Sheldonhall, who they work with in a bid to protect the luxury sector from the threat of fast fashion.

Alongside that they also cherry-pick pieces straight from the wardrobes of some of the capital’s most fashionable residents,

“If you look at how Kate Moss popularised vintage shopping, rental is heading the same way. It’s now seen as a badge of honour" Sacha Newall

My Wa rd robe HQ

so you can borrow Alice NaylorLeyland’s tartan Emilia Wickstead dress or buy Arizona Muse’s Manolo Blahnik boots. “If you look at how Kate Moss popularised vintage shopping, rental is heading the same way,” says Newall. “It’s now seen as a badge of honour.”

Their unique business model caught the eye of the capital’s top department stores, with Liberty and Harvey Nichols both hosting MWHQ pop-ups over the years. Now Harrods has partnered with them to create a bespoke space in-store. Launched just in time for the full easing of lockdown T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / ST Y L E

FASHION RENTAL_v2.indd 31

on 19 July, the carefully curated edit focuses on elevated event-wear and celebrates the fantasy of fashion: think romantic Needle & Thread maxi dresses, Alexandre Vauthier micro minis and puff-sleeved Rasario gowns, which are currently flying off the rails. They’ve also become the must-visit destination for fashionforward brides, after Carrie Symonds used MWHQ to rent her wedding dress for her recent nuptials to Boris Johnson. The intricately embroidered tulle gown by Greek designer Christos

Costarellos reportedly set Symonds back £45, whereas it would have cost her £2,870 to buy. As a frequent renter on the site (she also borrowed a number of looks for the G7 Summit, including an electric blue Amanda Wakeley suit and a mustard yellow Alice Eady dress), Newall had no idea that particular dress was destined for Westminster Cathedral. “As a regular customer, nothing flagged as being unusual about the order,” she said. Next up the brand is looking to expand internationally, with exciting plans afoot in Ibiza and St Tropez.

31

12/08/2021 12:31

STYLE

GEORGIE HYATT

Rotaro

T

rotaro.co.uk

he newest addition to the fashion rental scene, Rotaro differs from many of the platforms in that there’s no peer-topeer element involved – instead, Rotaro work directly with sought-after brands to provide them with a way to rent their surplus stock.

Founder Georgie Hyatt decided to launch the business after spotting a gap in the market when working in her previous role as a trend forecaster for WGSN. “I wanted to create a fashion solution, rather than contribute to a fashion problem,” she explains. “With Rotaro, our mission is to tackle overproduction on the brand’s end and overconsumption on the customer end.”

Their ethos is “buy good basics, rent good fun” and the brands on their platform reflect that, with a mix of emerging designers like Materiel Tbilisi (their slinky, silky dresses are currently rented backto-back for weeks) and Stine Goya alongside more established names including The Vampire’s Wife and JW Anderson.

There’s a strong emphasis on eco-conscious brands, too, with sustainability a key focus. Hyatt has taken care to make every possible element of the business green, from their eco-friendly Ozone cleaning

“With Rotaro, our mission is to tackle overproduction on the brand’s end and overconsumption on the customer end"

service and carbon neutral DPD deliveries to their partnership with Ecologi, which sees them plant one tree for every rental and 500 trees for every new brand they bring on board.

Due to the fact that Rotaro only works directly with brands, hiring an outfit here is as close to a luxury e-commerce shopping experience as you’re going to get – think of it as the Net-a-Porter of the rental world. Whereas with peer-to-peer apps you can only rent pieces direct from fellow consumers in whatever size they happen to be, Rotaro has

32

FASHION RENTAL_v2.indd 32

12/08/2021 12:31

Rent it Right Now

Fashion platforms that will help you curate a chic and sustainable wardrobe Front Row

Founded in 2016, Front Row is London’s first luxury designer rental destination.

Working as a full lifestyle service, they have everyone from Stella McCartney and Versace to Zimmermann and Alessandra Rich on their books, as well as stylists on hand for expert advice. frontrow.uk.com

Bundlee

With babies outgrowing seven clothing sizes in just two years, dressing your little ones sustainably can be a challenge. Bundlee’s clever monthly subscription service curates a miniature capsule wardrobe for them, with brands including Mini Rodini and Mori, which you can swap out as soon as they’ve outgrown it. bundlee.co.uk

Kids O’Clock

all the current season pieces and cult favourites ranging in sizes from 6 to 16, as well as a Try-On at Home service.

There are new product drops every week, with Zimmermann dresses and Cecilie Bahnsen blouses available from £15 for a four-day loan.

While their digital offerings continues to go from strength to strength, Rotaro dipped its toes into the world of retail this summer with their first pop-up store on Carnaby Street. The Soho space featured a carefully curated capsule collection available for rent, as well as smart screens where customers could browse the full online offering and have it delivered straight to their door. But true to Rotaro form, this was more than just a shop – the space also became a hub for creative workshops and panel discussions with sustainable thought leaders, while the walls were adorned with modernist works by female artists, provided by online accessible art platform Partnership Editions. It was the perfect physical depiction of everything the brand has managed to create online, and while the pop-up wasn’t permanent, something tells us that won’t be the case for long.

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / ST Y L E

FASHION RENTAL_v2.indd 33

Billed as the Vestiaire of childrenswear and founded by former Net-a-Porter, Moda Operandi and Harvey Nichols buyer Laura Roso Vidrequin, Kids O’Clock focuses on renting and recycling clothing for children and babies, and features brands like Chloé and Christian Dior alongside pieces from Zara and Petit Bateau. kidsoclock.co.uk

On Loan

At On Loan, the emphasis is on elevating the customer’s everyday wardrobe rather than focusing on occasion wear. Aiming to champion independent designers, they work with brands like Shrimps, Joseph and Mother of Pearl to make much-loved designers more accessible and cost-effective. onloan.co

Cocoon

A firm favourite with editors, Cocoon makes the fashion world’s most soughtafter designer bags available for hire. The site stocks every style of it-bag imaginable, from Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta to Jacquemus and JW Anderson, all of which are available through their monthly membership scheme. cocoon.club

33

12/08/2021 12:31

MULBERRY X ALEXA Big Guy & Little Guy Li le Guy, from £795 Big Guy, from £995 In 2010, Mulberry launched its Alexa bag inspired by fashion it girl, Alexa Chung. This season, the British brand has collaborated with the muse, model and now designer to celebrate its 50th anniversary, debuting two satchel styles for a special capsule collection. Stylish and versatile, Big Guy and Little Guy take inspiration from the vintage Mulberry Elkington briefcase that she was often spotted with around London in the Noughties.

mulberry.com

The

IT-BAG EDIT THIS SEASON’S MUST-HAVE BAGS FEATURE REIMAGINED CLASSICS, MINIATURE STYLES AND NEW CULT HEROES

LOEWE Goya From £2,400

A chic compact construction made up of simple clean lines, the Goya is Jonathan Anderson’s new it bag for Loewe. Available in three sizes and a range of saturated colours, including canary yellow and electric blue, each one is crafted from sumptuously soft as silk calfskin and adorned with the house’s neat Anagram closure.

loewe.com

DIOR Micro

From £1,800

For their latest must-have, Dior has reinvented four of its best-selling styles by shrinking them to create cutely compact Micro Bags. The Caro, the 30 Montaigne, the Lady Dior and the Saddle style have all been exquisitely re-crafted in miniature silhouettes.

dior.com

34

SUMMER BAGS.indd 34

11/08/2021 14:18

STYLE

GUCCI Diana From £2,960

Beloved by Diana, Princess of Wales in the 90s, the new Gucci Diana tote has been reimagined by Alessandro Michele this season, 20 years after its launch. The 2021 update comes in three sizes and seven colourways and features highvis interchangeable neon straps around the chic bamboo handles, which can be embossed with letters and stars for an added customised touch.

gucci.com

V

CHLOÉ Kiss From £1,150

Straight from Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s Chloé SS21 catwalk collection comes the Kiss small bag. Featuring a bold piece of gold-tone hardware along the top handle – designed to resemble lips, hence the name – the bag features an adjustable shoulder strap but is far more chic hand-held as a clutch, as intended.

chloe.com

BOTTEGA VENETA Mount

Mount Envelope, from £2,180 Mount Bermuda Tote, from £3,700 Meet The Mount, the latest additions to Daniel’s Lee’s bag collection destined for cult status. Both styles feature the house’s signature chunky goldtone chain, with the structured Envelope, which can be worn cross-body, shaped with a “V” for Veneta on the front flap, and the sculpted wooden handle on the oversized Bermuda tote, designed to sit snugly over the shoulder or in the crook of the arm.

bottegaveneta.com

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FAS H I O N

SUMMER BAGS.indd 35

35

11/08/2021 14:18

Watch & Jewellery Notes

The latest launches and most covetable new pieces to have on your radar

STACKING UP

Louis Vuitton’s monogram-themed B Blossom collection gets a summery burst of joy in a new range of uplifting hues, from bold malachite and carnelian to sensual opal and agate. Diamond pavé further brightens the mood in this range of pendants, rings and bracelets that are a stacking delight. louisvuitton.com

C o m p i l e d b y MING LIU

STAR SECRETS

Ming Lampson has been working from her Notting Hill studio for nearly two decades, but you’d be forgiven for not knowing the name: her sculptural, geometric gems are all entirely one-offs, created exclusively for her in-the-know clients Ming, 108 Talbot Road, No ing Hill, W11 mingjewellery.com

Fan Club

DIVINE DECO Boundary-breaking Brazilian jeweller Ara Vartanian used his love of vintage cars as the inspiration for his latest collection, Biela (Portuguese for ‘connecting rod’). Stand-out pieces include Art Deco fan earrings studded with ethically sourced gemstones. aravartanian.com

RAINBOW BRIGHT

A play on the classic tennis bracelet, Carolina Bucci’s 360 Twister Luxe bracelet is set with multicoloured precious stones and strung together by gold chains for ultimate flexibility. Design your own bespoke version with their clever online tool, where you can personalise each rondelle. £22,680; carolinabucci.com

36

WATCH AND JEWELLERY NOTES_14.indd 36

09/08/2021 20:12

TRIBAL SPIRIT A celebration of light and balance, Graff’s Tribal high jewellery collection originally launched in March for the spring equinox; its latest pieces continue that raw energy, shaped by storytelling and the way magic folklore once explained nature, from the power of a blazing sun to the cool clarity of a night’s moon. graff.com

Nina Runsdorf

OPAL FRUITS

Rare tree opals – which are formed from 15-million-year-old fossilised Indonesian wood – lend their captivating, earthy swirls to the Tree of Life collection by Nina Runsdorf, who has highlighted the stone’s rich, organic tones with brown, cognac, rough and white diamonds, punctuated with Paraiba tourmalines and Yowah and Boulder opals. Bold yet sensual, featuring swirls of iridescent turquoise alongside rich stripes of brown, they evoke long, sun-soaked bohemian days by the seaside.

ninarunsdorf.com

LA VIE EN ROSE

Everything’s coming up roses at Piaget, whose joyful Rose collection (inspired by Yves Piaget’s favourite flower) includes the likes of this verdant 5ct green tourmaline ring trimmed with diamond-set petals and punctuated with matching buds – a one-off piece that took more than 50 hours to create. Four new watches are also in full bloom, where texture and tactility are achieved through exceptional crafts including gold engraving, glyptic and enamel.

Green Tourmaline Diamond Ring, £36,600

piaget.com

T H E G L O S S A RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / WATC H E S -J E W E L L E R Y

WATCH AND JEWELLERY NOTES_14.indd 37

37

09/08/2021 20:12

High Jewellery

Cool

Couture For this year’s Couture Week, high jewellery houses took to Paris to present collections that celebrated life and the power of mother nature

W

W o r d s LIVIA PRIMO LACK

hen the mercury starts to rise in the French capital, it can only mean one thing: the arrival of Haute Couture week.

This is when the most celebrated fashion houses and high jewellery brands from around the world descend on Paris’s famous 1st arrondissement to celebrate the launch of their latest collections; a two-week extravaganza of opulent dinners, high-octane catwalk shows and intimate viewings.

And after last year’s digital presentations, fashion editors, jewellery writers and buyers were more than ready for a return to form as this year’s collections were presented as they were meant to be seen – in person.

The event was marked by a sense of relief and a true spirit of joie de vivre, as Paris’s legendary Place Vendôme was once more abuzz. For the select few who received the coveted invitations to chic private apartments and grand ateliers, there was a palpable sense of joy and hope, and this was reflected in the jewels themselves, with each collection a celebration of life and nature.

Bright, bold and bursting with colour, this year’s selection of high jewellery pieces were designed with pleasure in mind. From panthers prowling across graphic necklaces at Cartier to show-stopping chandelier earrings studded with the full rainbow of precious stones at Gucci, this was high jewellery at its most daring. Delightfully exaggerated and extravagant, each piece was a visual feast full of texture and colour.

38

HIGH JEWELLERY 14.indd 38

11/08/2021 12:54

BULGARI MAGNIFICA

Jaw-dropping stones and daring designs flooded Bulgari’s Magnifica collection. Celebrating inspirational women from around the world, this 350-piece-strong set – the largest high jewellery collection this house has ever created – featured Lucia Silvestri’s most coveted and exclusive gemstones. A highlight was the Imperial Spinel necklace, set with a rare 131.21 carat spinel from Tajikistan, the fourth largest spinel known to man. With coloured stones as one of Bulgari’s greatest design fortes, a contrasting Monete Weave set with a coin bearing the profile of the Roman emperor Nero, amid a choker of entwined gold and diamonds, recalled the work of BritishIraqi architect Zaha Hadid. bulgari.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

HIGH JEWELLERY 14.indd 39

39

11/08/2021 12:54

LOUIS VUITTON BRAVERY

To celebrate its bicentennial, Louis Vuitton paid tribute to its eponymous founder with Bravery, a spectacular 90-piece high jewellery collection. Francesca Amfitheatrof, the Maison’s creative director for jewellery and watches, unveiled eight chapters, each displaying exceptional gemstones and exquisitely-crafted pieces that represented key moments in Vuitton’s life and aesthetics.

The first piece, the Constellation d’Hercules necklace, was inspired by his birthplace in the French Jura mountains and featured a starry and reflective sky brought to life with tanzanites, tsavorites and opals.

Vuitton’s passion for jewellery and his desire to make his way to Paris were reflected in the deep red rubies of a La Passion choker, while a three-layered necklace featuring Columbian emeralds, L’Aventure, captured the rich legacy of the pioneering path that he forged. louisvuitton.com

HIGH JEWELLERY 14.indd 40

11/08/2021 12:54

WA T C H E S & J E W E L L E R Y

BOUCHERON HOLOGRAPHIQUE

Claire Choisne, the creative director at Boucheron, swapped clean lines and minimalist colours for a high jewellery collection that brought a whole new meaning to the word “holographic”. Composed of nine jewellery suites, the series physically explored the very essence of photosensitive phenoms. Using a revolutionary strong metal coating, made by spraying precious metals at high temperature onto ceramics and rock crystals, the 25-piece Holographique series featured classic Boucheron motifs in new ways. Peony floral rings and Jack de Boucheron brooches were wrapped in a thick layer of shimmering rainbow film, resulting in pieces whose colour, clarity and very essence were constantly changing. boucheron.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

HIGH JEWELLERY 14.indd 41

41

11/08/2021 12:55

TASAKI

LIVING NATURE

CARTIER

SIXIÈME SENS Cartier’s latest high jewellery collection, Sixième Sens, was an emotive journey that delighted all the senses, pushing design boundaries and challenging perceptions of reality by using trompe-l’œil and graphic patterns to create optical illusions.

The Pixelage necklace mimicked the famous Cartier panther, through a series of intricate patterns and settings techniques. The majestic movement of this feline’s black and gold coat came to life on contact with the wearer’s skin. Using exceptional gemstones, such as an 8.20ct ruby, rose-cut diamonds, checkered onyx and a 21.51ct cabochon sapphire, this was a collection that created an evocation of all the senses and beyond. cartier.com

Visionary designer Prabal Gurung honoured mother nature’s brilliance with a collection of innovative designs and exceptional craftsmanship using Tasaki’s signature gem: the pearl. Focusing on ear cuffs, this collection was a celebration of modernity, using these fruits of the sea in ways that have seldom been seen before.

In the designer’s own words: “I am not from the jewellery industry, and so for me there are no restrictions on the use of pearls.” Comprising a total of 12 jewellery chapters, the collection shows how these classical and unassuming gems can adorn every angle of the ear to bring to life cascading waterfalls, iridescent forest valleys and glowing sunsets. tasaki.co.uk

42

HIGH JEWELLERY 14.indd 42

11/08/2021 12:55

GUCCI

HORTUS DELICIARUM To celebrate its centenary, Alessandro Michele took Gucci on a distinctly fantastical direction for the house’s high jewellery collection inspired by mythical beasts and ancient fauna. Entitled Hortus Deliciarium (Garden of Delights), the 130-piece favola was divided into four chapters and filled with vivid gemstones that the house has been collecting for years including opals, burnt orange spessartine garnets, sky-blue tanzanites and saturated blue indicolites. Using step-cut and diamond tassels to bring movement to a necklace emulating a waterfall’s flow, gradated gems to represent the sun’s movement and classic rose motifs with rococo bows on rings to symbolise love, this is an enchanting collection that takes its inspiration from all things nature. gucci.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

HIGH JEWELLERY 14.indd 43

43

11/08/2021 12:55

HUBLOT

Big Bang One Click 33mm

Hublot’s chic new Big Bang One Click 33mm line is the ultimate in versatility, offering no fewer than 14 different straps – all of which are self-interchangeable with a simple click. Whether choosing the gold or steel model, all the strap options work brilliantly, from sporty natural rubber in blush pink or sky blue, citrusy yellow or orange, to stylish calfskin finishes in electric blue, raspberry pink or terracotta orange.

Stylised numerals, screws and a bezel set with 36 diamonds complete the look.

From £10,400, straps from £375 hublot.com

POP OF COLOUR TURN HEADS WITH A FLASH OF THE WRIST IN THIS SEASON’S ELECTRIC HUES Wo r d s MING LIU

BREITLING

SuperOcean Heritage ‘57 Pastel Paradise

Breitling has been making strong inroads into the women’s market over recent years, with on-point designs including these super zingy new pieces inspired by their 1950s diving watches. Oozing a retro-cool, laidback summer vibe, the watches come in five colours – aquamarine, iced latte, mint green, white and tangerine. Full-on colour saturation comes courtesy of tone-on-tone dials matched to bezels and Saffiano calfskin straps – a technicolour statement piece guaranteed to brighten your mood.

From £3,600 breitling.com 44

POP OF COLOUR WATCHES.indd 44

09/08/2021 11:53

WA T C H E S & J E W E L L E R Y

ROLEX

Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36

CHANEL

Chanel Electro

Rainbow hues have emerged as the fashion colourway of our times and Chanel’s new Electro collection fully embraces the trend, with high-wattage neon pulsing through every design. Its classic wraparound Première watch features a graduating rainbow leather strap that twists around the blackened steel watch, while colour block fans will make a beeline for the Code Coco Electro, which comes in a vibrant shocking pink.

From £5,200

Pops of colour are seriously jazzing up Rolex’s classic gem-set watches: the new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 line now features pieces with vivid Roman numerals matched to leather straps – in either eyecatching coral, turquoise or burgundy – complemented by a feast of pavé diamonds.

There are 254 stones on the lugs, lug caps and case, 52 more surrounding the bezel and another 450 pavé diamonds across the dial, as the iconic Rolex arc-shaped window and Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock peep through, for day of the week and date.

From £66,200

rolex.co.uk

chanel.com

T H E G L O S S A RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / WATC H E S -J E W E L L E R Y

POP OF COLOUR WATCHES.indd 45

45

09/08/2021 11:53

Two-Step Skin Prep

Discover the #drsebaghskinprep secret to instantly clearer, brighter and more radiant skin. This powerful two-step ritual leaves skin primed for perfect makeup application. Start with Deep Exfoliating Mask, with azelaic and lactic acid to whisk away dead skin cells and impurities whilst boosting cellular renewal. Follow with the purifying and clarifying Skin Perfecting Mask, with mineral-rich kaolin clay from Brittany, to absorb excess oil, tighten pores and even out skin tone.

Available in-store and at drsebagh.com

DR SEBAGH ISSUE 14.indd 1

27/07/2021 16:08

BEAUTY

LOVE AT FIRST SWIPE This season’s statement lip comes courtesy of Mac’s Love Me Liquid Lip Colour, the latest addition to the Love Me range, which has been reformatted with an innovative new formulation. Made up of a nourishing mix of argan oil, coconut oil and shea butter, it offers a full-coverage satin finish with a punchy colour palette of super-saturated reds and burnt oranges to flattering pinks and nudes. £19.50; maccosmetics.co.uk

Beauty Notes

The ultra-indulgent pedicure, a breakthrough retinol & the world’s first personalised foundation C o m p i l e d b y C H A R LOT T E A DS E T T

California Dreaming

A warm welcome to Tower 28, the buzzy beauty brand that has arrived on these shores from California. Founder Amy Liu has designed the collection of cream bronzers, sheer blushes and lip glosses using non-irritating, vegan ingredients for skin that is sensitive or prone to inflammatory conditions.

cultbeauty.co.uk

ALL-NIGHTER

For an enhanced nighttime ritual, look no further than Dr Sebagh’s Retinol Night Repair, a new superserum that employs the potent anti-ageing powers of 0.3% retinol, also known as Vitamin A. While you get your beauty sleep, it stimulates the production of collagen and elastin to give a plumped, youthful effect, leaving skin smoother and more radiant.

£72; drsebagh.com

Back to Nature

SHINE ON Dior Addict Lip Glow has been reinvented with a new formula composed of 97% ingredients of natural origin, including cherry oil, shea butter and vegetable waxes.

Now available in 11 shades, this intensely hydrating balm gives lips a pretty pop of colour. £29.50; dior.com

Cold As Ice

Utilising the powers of cryotherapy, Ice Globes

by Fraîcheur (£95) are the must-have face tools of the moment. Made of borosilicate glass and designed to be kept in the freezer, this ice-cold facial massage will instantly tighten and brighten the skin, calm inflammation, and reduce under eye circles and puffiness.

cultbeauty.co.uk

48

BEAUTY NOTES 14.indd 48

09/08/2021 13:35

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

A Perfect Match If you thought 50 shades of foundation was good, imagine being able to choose a base to match your skin exactly? Say hello to Dcypher, the world’s first ever fully bespoke foundation brand.

Founders Adam and Claire Triantis, a biochemist and consumer scientist, have developed a unique AI technology which expertly captures your skin tone in the most minute detail, enabling the UK lab to replicate the shade and make your perfect match. Taking product personalisation to the next level, you can also choose the coverage, texture, and finish for a completely custom-blend formula.

£28; dcypher.me

Blush Redux

Let It Glow Nars’ new limited-edition Orgasm on the Beach collection is inspired by Orgasm, the brand’s cult classic peachy-pink shade of blush, originally launched back in 1999. The cheek palette features six shimmery coral and golden tones designed to deliver the look of skin warmed by the sun. And, for die-hard fans of the universally flattering shade, there is an Orgasm jumbo size compact.

From £33; narscosmetics.co.uk

Nailed It Chic nail bar Townhouse has opened its most luxurious salon yet in Harrods, where its expert nail artists will offer the brand’s sought-a er treatments in private booths.

From exclusive nail art – try the Givenchy collaboration until 29 August – to the ultimate pampering experience ‘ e Pedicure, a Harrods Exclusive’ (£205), expect sumptuous surroundings and impeccable service.

Harrods, Fi h Floor, 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, SW1

mytownhouse.co.uk

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

BEAUTY NOTES 14.indd 49

49

09/08/2021 13:35

Interview

Olivia Palermo The fashion influencer talks about creating a beauty brand, being a female entrepreneur and her love of London W o r d s LU C I A N A B E L L I N I P h o t o g r a p h y DAV I D RO E M E R

50

OLIVIA INTERVIEW.indd 50

11/08/2021 12:56

51

OLIVIA INTERVIEW.indd 51

11/08/2021 12:56

52

OLIVIA INTERVIEW.indd 52

11/08/2021 12:56

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

“I

’ve always been very high-maintenance,” admits Olivia Palermo.

“That’s never changed.” The American fashion tastemaker and entrepreneur is chatting to me over Zoom from her home in Dumbo, New York, which she shares with her husband, the dashing German model Johannes Huebl, and her beloved 16-year-old Maltese, Mr Butler. And those high maintenance tendencies she’s referring to are her intricate skincare and make-up routines, which she’s been honing since her teens. “I’ve always loved make-up, from a very young age, and I started going to a dermatologist when I was 14,” the 35-year-old explains, looking perfectly coiffed with freshly blow-dried hair and wearing a flowing printed boho-style dress from Chufy, the label designed by the Argentinian fashion consultant (and Palermo’s close friend) Sofia Sanchez de Betak.

Naturally, her expertly applied make-up is flawless – “I’m an all-ornothing girl – either the make-up goes fully on or there’s no make-up at all” – and her skin is luminous. “I get a facial with Joanna Vargas or Dr. Dennis Gross once a week and see my dermatologist every three weeks, just to check in on my skin. My mother instilled from a very young age that you have your skin your entire life, and it’s very important that you take care of it. That’s always stayed with me.”

That close relationship with makeup and skincare has become even more important in her life recently, thanks to the latest release from the growing Olivia Palermo brand: Olivia Palermo Beauty. Launched in May this year and available to buy through her eponymous website, which features a mix of elegantly crafted editorials, Palermo-approved shopping guides and a digital beauty boutique, the vegan and cruelty-free range features a carefully curated beauty wardrobe

of four matte lipsticks, two eyeshadow palettes – designed to capture that signature Palermo smokey eye – an illuminating serum and a mattifying mist. The collection is as elevated and elegant as you’d expected from a woman who has become synonymous with understated luxury, ever since she first arrived on the fashion scene over a decade ago. While she may have originally come to the world’s attention in MTV’s hit 2008 show The City, which focused on the personal and professional lives of a group of young New York socialites, including Palermo, she swiftly made the move from reality star to Fashion Week front-row staple and has never looked back. Known for her effortlessly chic approach to dressing – a glamorously preppy mix of camel coats, crisp white

shirts and tasteful knitwear – Palermo was a style influencer before Instagram was even invented (she now has over six million followers on the platform) and famously broke the internet in 2014 with her unconventional bridal look: a white cashmere sweater and tulle skirt worn over shorts, all designed by Carolina Herrera.

Her trend-setting style has seen her collaborate with some of the fashion world’s biggest names, including creating her own line of footwear for Italian shoe label Aquazzura and working on an accessories collection with Aspinal of London, but it was her experience in the beauty world, where she has worked with the likes of La Mer, Bobbi Brown and Ciaté, that she drew on for this latest venture.

“There has been a lot of build-up to this moment, almost three years in the making,” she says. “It wasn’t like I just woke up one day and said, ‘Yeah, I’m going to start a beauty brand.’”

Their USP, she says, is that she approached the beauty line in the

“My mother instilled from a very young age that you have your skin your entire life, and it’s very important that you take care of it.

That’s always stayed with me"

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

OLIVIA INTERVIEW.indd 53

53

11/08/2021 12:56

same way she approaches fashion. “We wear everyday looks – prêt-à-porter – so I wanted to play off that with Preta-Beauté,” says Palermo. “Whenever I work with clients, I always start with key pieces in their wardrobe, so that was what we did here, creating elevated basics that you can build into.”

She cites glossy fashion editorials as a constant source of inspiration, as well as some of her talented pals. “When it comes to make-up, I’ve been super loyal to my girlfriends Charlotte Tilbury and Pat McGrath since they started their lines. They always have an incredible vision and talent for creating fantasy and glamour.”

There are plenty of personal Palermo touches throughout the collection, from the names of the colours, all taken from moments in her life (her eyeshadow, Seashell, was named after the sandy beaches of one of her favourite holiday spots, Ibiza, while her Chianti lipstick is a reference to her favourite red wine), to the reassuringly weighty metal cases, inspired by a vintage Art Deco bracelet she was given for her 21st birthday. “I’m so much about that luxury experience, so I wanted to bring that to the collection,” she says.

“We thought it would be nice to give a nod to my gold chain bracelet that I’ve worn throughout the years, which people can identify with. Everything in the market right now is so lightweight and plasticky – I wanted to create a really heavy luxury product, something with old Hollywood glamour that you can have on your dressing table.”

But while the range draws on her own style references, Palermo insists she set out to create a line of products that was as inclusive as possible. “I was hypersensitive about that, making sure these products weren’t just suitable for me. We tested a lot of formulations to make sure all the colours suited multiple skin tones, and it was very important to me that there was something for everyone – my guys and my girls.” It was important to her to make sure the range was sustainable, too; every product was

to go into the details of every single thing we do, so I was very involved.

I went back and forth with my head of product development for months to make sure we got everything right.

And I have a very clear creative vision for just about every aspect of the brand.” That’s not to say she hasn’t had her challenges. The collection was supposed to launch last November, but due to the pandemic they decided to wait until the summer. “I always say patience is a virtue, and we had to be very patient, but it seemed right to be more thoughtful given world events.”

Her biggest struggle? “Sticking to budget, definitely. You know, I have expensive taste. And I don’t really take no for an answer – there’s always a way to make things work.”

Though like the rest of the world she’s been grounded for the last 18 months, Palermo usually spends plenty of time in London, whether it’s for her twiceannual visits to Fashion Week, where she is a front-row regular, to check in with her long-time agent, Karen Diamond at Models 1, or to visit her best girlfriend, Sarah Harris, the Deputy Editor of British Vogue. “Sarah has given me incredible suggestions for beauty over the years, because she and I are very similar in our highmaintenance choices,” says Palermo.

“When I’m in London I love getting a manicure at DryBy on Mortimer Street, a facial at 111Skin and my hair done at Hershesons in Harvey Nichols.”

Her favourite area to stay in is Notting Hill – “some of my closest friends live there, so it’s like a second home to me” – where you’ll find her having dinner at e&o or strolling down Portobello Road.

“I like going really early or really late, when they’re about to close up, because you can always spot things.” But for now she’s happy in New York, working hard on the next range of colours set to launch later in the year and cementing her ever-expanding empire. “I’m trying to build a beauty brand that will still be around 50 years from now – this is a real labour of love.”

“There has been a lot of build-up to this moment.

It wasn’t like I just woke up one day and said, ‘Yeah, I’m going to start a beauty brand’" developed with non-toxic ingredients, formulated without parabens, sulfates, phthalates or mineral oil, and all of the packaging is entirely recyclable. “We try to make sure our products are as clean as possible,” says Palermo. “It’s very much what the market is demanding, so it’s important to listen to the customer.”

Palermo relishes her role as a female entrepreneur, and says that she believes this is the best moment to be in that sphere. “I think with the current climate, women’s empowerment is more important than ever.” As a businesswoman, she is steely in her approach and not afraid to get stuck in with every element of the design process. She’s particularly keen to make it clear that this is not just another celebrity make-up range, or a licensing deal that she has simply stuck her name on. When I ask just how involved she was, she gives a knowing laugh. “I like

54

OLIVIA INTERVIEW.indd 54

11/08/2021 12:56

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

OLIVIA INTERVIEW.indd 55

55

11/08/2021 12:56

The Power of Rose Quartz Lately, I’ve been using the Gulsha Rose Quartz Facial Massage Plate (£66) and then the Knesko Skin Rose Quartz Roller ($80) along with my serum to really help the ingredients absorb into my skin. These steps are so cooling and leave me feeling refreshed.

Hydration Highlights

My Beauty Glossary

Olivia’s Daily Beauty Routine From hero cleansers and nourishing serums to her top make-up picks, these are the products Olivia relies on to keep her looking at her very best, day and night

Morning Cleanse

Dr. Dennis Gross has been my dermatologist since I was 14, so his expert-recommended products are the basis of each day.

Cleansing is an essential first step, so I always use a washcloth to clean my face in the morning.

I’ll follow by using Dr. Dennis Gross All-in-One Cleanser (£29), which is also a multitasking toner for balance. If extra exfoliation is needed, I’ll swap for 111Skin Clinical Exfoliator (£95).

Serum Saviours

I rely a lot on my trusty serums and emulsions – my daily go-to’s are 111Skin Celestial Black Diamond Emulsion (£450) and Serum (£360) and my Olivia Palermo Beauty Primetime Illuminating Serum (£30) which has a beautiful pearly lavender tone to it and highlights without looking dewy, which I love.

I use Dr. Dennis Gross Hyaluronic Marine Oil-Free Moisturiser (£59) and I’m a huge fan of The Rich Cream from Augustinus Bader (£205) – it’s a beauty editor’s favourite for a reason – it really delivers incredible hydration.

Dr. Sturm’s Eye Cream (£110) is fantastic and definitely helps if I haven’t had enough water or sleep the night before.

Sunscreen Superstar

I try to stay out of the sun as much as possible during the summer but if I do venture out to catch some rays, I make sure I’m protected using Dr. Dennis Gross All-Physical Lightweight Wrinkle Defense Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 30 (£46), which is oil-free and super blendable.

Signature Scent

I’ve worn Annick Goutal’s Vent de Folie for years, but since they’ve discontinued it I’ve been looking for a new signature fragrance that my husband also likes, because it’s really important to me that any scent I wear, my husband loves it, too. I’ve been trying a few different Aerin Lauder perfumes and my current favourite is Waterlily Sun (£99), a gorgeous floral scent that is very fresh and green.

56

OLIVIA SKINCARE DPS.indd 56

10/08/2021 06:52

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Lip Service

My lipstick of the moment is my Olivia Palermo Beauty Matte Liptick in Poppy (£38), which we just launched.

I’ve always worn a bold red and my aunt has worn red lipstick for her whole life, so in terms of the colour I had a very clear idea of what I wanted. Poppy is infused with a hint of orange for an extra pop – it’s my take on a classic red. We tested out lots of different shades and chose a corally red that works across a wide spectrum of skin tones that could be worn to the beach or the office.

Evening Wind- Down

Finishing Touch

I always top off any make-up look with a spritz of my Olivia Palermo Beauty Pre-Show Mattifying Mist setting spray (£35). It’s great for keeping your make-up in place and gives you a matte finish but still with a healthy glow that works for day or night. It’s got a lovely rosewater scent to it, but nothing too heavy – I wanted to keep it light and fresh, because I find heavily fragranced products can be very invasive.

Nightly Prep

At night, I’ll remove my make-up with Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Water (£16.10), then wash my face with one of my Dr. Dennis Gross cleansers, before using Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel (£19) that comes with two clarifying steps to keep my skin smooth and clear.

Masks & Treatments

I’m a big face-mask fan and alternate between my favourite masks a few times a week. I adore the Sisley Black Rose Mask (£119), which you apply for ten minutes and then rinse. Before any virtual events or meetings, I’ll throw a sheet mask on to give my face an added jolt. Joanna Vargas Twilight Face Mask (£60) gives an amazing glow and leaves my skin really soft, SK-II Facial Treatment Mask (£82) is great for intensive hydration and Charlotte Tilbury’s Instant Magic Dry Sheet Mask (£18) is a self-care staple.

I like to burn a scented candle at night –Diptyque Baies (£49) is a classic. I’ve noticed incredible results from light therapy treatments, so before I’m ready to head to bed, I’ll use the Dr. Dennis Gross FaceWare Pro LED mask (£430), which helps boost collagen production. Recently, I’ve been experimenting with facial massage with a few different cool products from FaceGym. I really like their Multi-Sculpt Tool (£45), which is designed to reduce facial tension and release blockages in the muscles. But I always use tools in moderation and not too often, being careful not to mark the skin. Remember, it’s important to treat both your body and skin with extra kindness, now and always.

Olivia Palermo Beauty is available from oliviapalermo.com

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

OLIVIA SKINCARE DPS.indd 57

57

10/08/2021 06:52

My Beauty Glossary

The ULTIMATE

SUNSCREEN Guide

Great skin starts with great sunscreen, Alessandra Steinherr takes the guesswork out of choosing the perfect SPF for your skin

S

unscreen is the only beauty product that is absolutely essential for everyone, whatever your age, gender, ethnicity or lifestyle – it’s well proven that wearing it on a daily basis is the single most important thing you can do to achieve good skin. The real secret is finding one that you enjoy using, so that it becomes a seamless part of your skincare routine.

A sunscreen’s function is to protect against harmful radiation from the sun, which is crucial in preventing premature ageing and skin cancer. There are two types of UV (ultraviolet) rays – UVB, which cause the epidermis to burn, and UVA, which cause lasting damage including wrinkles and sagging. Look for a broad spectrum sunscreen that will protect against both, and make sure you choose one with a high enough SPF to prevent hyperpigmentation.

The next decision is whether you opt for a chemical or mineral (also known as physical) sunscreen.

Don’t be put off by the names – chemical sunscreens are not full of ‘chemicals’. Mineral or

physical sunscreens are made up of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, while chemical sunscreens are everything else, including organic ingredients. A chemical sunscreen is easily absorbed, feels more elegant and doesn’t leave a white cast on the skin, while mineral sunscreens are thicker by nature and are photostable, meaning they don’t have to be reapplied as frequently. If you have sensitive or reactive skin, are pregnant or have melasma, I’d go for a mineral option. Regardless of which one you choose, you need a high SPF – I recommend SPF 30 as the absolute minimum – and should reapply at least every two hours.

Finally, don’t think about sunscreens as your only line of defence against sun damage. In summer, especially, it is important to wear protective clothing, a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses, and avoid direct sun in peak hours – I very rarely expose my skin but when I do, it’s at 5pm.

I’m not saying you can’t bask in the sunlight and enjoy life, just be clever about it. Here are my favourite sunscreens for protection year-round for the face and body.

Whenever people ask me, “What’s the best SPF?”, I always reply: “The one that you actually wear.”

58

ALEX EDIT 14.indd 58

08/08/2021 23:57

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

OILY SKIN

If you have oily skin, opt for an oil-free sunscreen. Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Multi Defense Aqua UV Gel SPF 50 (£36) glides onto skin with no greasy residue, and offers a strong defence against pollution and HEV light damage thanks to a multitude of powerful antioxidants.

Lancaster Sun Sensitive Oil Free Milky Fluid SPF 50 (£17.60) is a lightweight formula that sinks into skin amazingly. It also acts on infrared rays and visible light, which can cause skin damage.

Dr Dennis Gross All Physical Lightweight Wrinkle Defence SPF 30 (£46) is a mineral sunscreen, rich in antioxidants, so it protects against free radicals.

MAKE-UP PREP

HYPERPIGMENTATION

For a sunscreen to wear under makeup, try Charlotte Tilbury Invisible UV Flawless Poreless Primer SPF 50 (£39) which is infused with hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin. Vichy Capital Soleil UV Age Daily SPF 50+ Facial Sunscreen (£15.75) contains peptides, niacinamide and Vitamin E, and sinks in within a second.

For on-the-go protection, Colorescience Sunforgettable Brush-On Sunscreen SPF 30 (£39.99) is an all-mineral sheer powder in a brush that will not mess up your makeup. I am also obsessed with Shiseido Clear Suncare Stick SPF 50+ (£28).

It glides easily over a foundation and leaves no stickiness.

A host of active ingredients ensures that Sisley Sunleÿa Age Minimising Global Sun Care SPF 50+ (£192) doesn’t just offer protection from burning, it also prevents wrinkles, loss of firmness and dark spots.

Heliocare 360 Pigment Solution Fluid SPF 50+ (£26.99) is great for minimising sun spots, as it contains a depigmenting complex of ellagic acid and niacinamide, as well as antioxidant properties.

For those looking for a glowing complexion, Institut Esthederm Photo Reverse Tinted Brightening Protective Anti-Dark Spots Face Care (£56) is a brilliant tinted make-up formula that offers high UVA and UVB protection.

LIPS

The skin on the lips is delicate and therefore vulnerable to sun damage.

Clé de Peau Beaute UV Protective Lip Treatment SPF 30 (£50) is a sheer, neutral sunscreen that leaves lips looking plump and hydrated.

IS Clinical Lip Protect SPF 35 (£20) combines broad-spectrum protection with Vitamin E and coconut oil to condition and nourish lips and elderberry extract and linoleic acid to create a protective barrier against environmental aggressors.

Ultra Violette Sheen Screen Hydrating Lip Balm SPF 50 (£16) is formulated with sustainable lanolin and shea butter to soothe, and comes in four different shades.

EYES

The skin around the eye area is extremely thin and one of the first places to show signs of UV damage, such as fine lines and loss of tone. Sarah Chapman Skinesis Eye Insurance SPF 30 (£48) is a lightweight under-eye tint that protects against UV, IR and environmental damage, as well as giving an instantly refreshed appearance.

Sunscreen has a tendency to migrate into eyes, especially if you’re swimming or sweating, which can be painful.

Skinceuticals Mineral Eye UV Defence SPF 30 (£28) has a non-migrating formula and can even be used on eyelids, which are particularly prone to burning.

BODY

People often wear a high factor on their face and a lower factor on their body; but why would you do that? RéVive Soleil Supérieur Body Broad Spectrum SPF 50 Sunscreen (£125) is a transparent formula that offers daily protection, and contains glycerine to soften the skin.

If swimming and physical activities are on the agenda I recommend Clarins Gel-to-Oil SPF 50 (£22), it feels like a gel but goes on like an oil - it’s so silky - and you can apply it to dry or wet skin.

For a hydrating treat, try Decléor Aloe Vera Sun Bi-Phase Oil SPF 30 (£32) which includes aloe vera, sesame, argan and coconut to leave skin super nourished and smooth.

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

ALEX EDIT 14.indd 59

59

08/08/2021 23:57

TheGlossary_Advert_FloralStreet(fullpage).indd 1

10/09/2020 18:24

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

THE FACE SPRAY

THE FRAGRANCE

Orange Flower Water, £58

Terracotta Le Parfum, £65

Chantecaille

THE HIGHLIGHTER

Guerlain

Bobbi Brown

Liquid Face Highlighter, £30

THE BRONZER Armani

THE GLOW BALM

Neo Nude Melting Colour Balm, £32

U MY

BEA

Y

Saie

Dew Balm, £16

R

Escape Essentials

THE NUDE LIP

Y

T

GLOSSA

From cooling face sprays to revitalising masks, Beauty Director Alessandra Steinherr shares her favourite holiday heroes

By Terry

Hyaluronic Hydra-Balm, £29

THE MASK

Clé De Peau Beauté

Precious Gold Vitality Mask, £250

THE SKIN TINT

THE EYE SERUM

THE BODY SPRAY

The Radiant Skintint SPF30, £75

Advanced Night Repair Eye Concentrate Matrix, £54

Citronnelle & Geranium Body Spray, £45

La Mer

Estée Lauder

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

ALEX PRODUCTS.indd 61

Diptyque

THE LIP BALM

Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm £19.50

61

09/08/2021 22:21

SPRAY OF

SUNSHINE THIS SEASON’S FRESHEST NEW FRAGRANCES C o m p i l e d b y C H A R LOT T E A DS E T T

VYRAO I Am Verdant, Free 00, Magnetic 70, Georgette & Witchy Woo

Eau de Parfum, 50ml, £135 New London-based wellbeing brand Vyrao is on a mission to evoke positive emotion through scent with the launch of five highvibration fragrances. Founded by creative consultant Yasmin Sewell and blended by legendary perfumer Lyn Harris, each intriguing fragrance is designed to infuse the principles of energetic healing by tapping into powerful feelings from courage and creativity to self-love and sensuality. Every bottle also contains a supercharged 500-million-year-old Herkimer diamond crystal – surely the ultimate mood booster. selfridges.com

62

FRAGRANCES 14.indd 62

10/08/2021 11:32

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN Aqua Celestia

BYREDO Open Sky

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £178 This limited-edition fragrance goes back to the original source of inspiration for its founder, Ben Gorham – travel.

Gorham fi rst launched Byredo in 2006 after visiting his mother’s hometown in India, during which time he became enamoured with the spices and aromas of the region. Open Sky is designed to capture the experience of travel itself. The result is a woody, spicy unisex fragrance, with notes of black pepper, hemp leaves, vetiver and palo santo. byredo.com

Eau de Parfum, 70ml, £165 The latest Cologne Forte fragrances are a continuation of Parisian perfumer Francis Kurkdjian’s Aqua Universalis collection, a range of light and modern reinterpretations of traditional cologne. Aqua Celestia is a fresh citrus scent that takes inspiration from the moment the blue sea meets the blue sky.

A blend of jasmine from Egypt and bitter petitgrain from Italy with Mexican lime, French mimosa, results in an energising scent that packs a fruity punch. selfridges.com selfridges .com

GUCCI The Alchemists Garden 1921

DIPTYQUE Ilio

Eau de Toilette, 100ml, £102 Transporting the wearer to the Mediterranean coast, Ilio is a tribute to the place where the perfume house’s founders escaped for their holidays.

Surprisingly, the prickly pear is at the heart of the fragrance, with its liveliness exaggerated by bergamot. The softer, more floral touch comes from jasmine, while the fi nal note of iris gives the fragrance a velvety fi nish and a touch of earthiness, perfectly capturing the Med’s sun-baked landscape. libertylondon.com

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £285 Created around the Neroli flower, 1921 is the newest addition to The Alchemist’s Garden collection and marks 100 years of Gucci.

Paying homage to the Tuscan city of Florence where the house was founded a century ago, sweet and floral neroli blends with fresh, zesty limone cedrato and earthy oakmoss to create a lush, foresty fragrance. Its jade green bottle, inspired by the vials found in vintage apothecaries, pays tribute to one of Gucci’s iconic colours. gucci.com

CHANEL Paris-Édimbourg

LOUIS VUITTON Imagination Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £200 The latest scent from the French Maison is designed to fire up the imagination and embody the spirit of travel to far-flung lands.

Vuitton’s Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud tests the limits of perfume making with this velvety ambrox-rich blend of amber, Calabrian bergamot, orange and black tea from China, extracted with CO²..

Together they create a sensual, smoky scent with a contemporary edge, which conjures up the magic of the East. louisvuitton.com

Eau de Toilette, 125ml, £112 Inspired by the wild landscape of the Scottish Moorlands where Gabrielle Chanel used to holiday with Hugh Grosvenor, 2nd Duke of Westminster, this new scent from the Les Eaux de Chanel collection is mysterious – much like the love affair that influenced it. Fresh top notes of lemon and bergamot make way for aromatic undertones of juniper berry and cypress, before closing with earthy cedar accords.

Fresh and woody, it calls to mind the aroma of tweed jackets and country walks. chanel.com T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

FRAGRANCES 14.indd 63

63

09/08/2021 18:34

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

TOM FORD Soleil Brûlant

MEMO PARIS Sicilian Leather

TOM DAXON Salvia Sclarea

FLORAL STREET Sunflower Pop

Eau de Parfum, 50ml, £228 Literally translated to ‘burning sun’, Soleil Brûlant is an intense fragrance that evokes the image of the bright sun beaming down on a cool oasis.

Fresh top notes of mandarin and bergamot blend with spicy pink peppercorn, opening up to a heart of florals mixed with radiant black honey, before a base of amber and leather add a finishing touch of smokiness.

Embellished with resins and woods, the latest addition to the Soleil collection is both decadent and seductive. tomford.com

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £155 Designed to be worn on hot, humid days, Tom Daxon’s latest fragrance captures the cool, fresh smell of cut grass. The clary sage plant is at the heart of the scent for its green, soft aroma, and is balanced with other botanical notes including jasmine, green violet leaf and bergamot. A base of oakmoss and white musks gives balance to the crispness, with each spritz evoking the sensation of lying in a verdant field all day long. tomdaxon.com

MAISON CRIVELLI Osmanthe KÕdoshãn

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £170 Every fragrance that the French haute perfumery house creates is meant to offer an ultrasensorial discovery of one raw material, presenting a singular ingredient in a surprising way with contrasting notes. This season, that ingredient is the sweet and fruity osmanthus flower that grows on the mountain ranges of Eastern Asia. The verdant floral notes are balanced with woody patchouli and tobacco, and surprising spice from star anise and Sichuan pepper. harveynichols.com

Eau de Parfum, 75ml, £215 To Sicily, where the great vision of Mount Etna stands proud. Inspired by the power of the volcano and the isle’s Mediterranean vegetation, the latest Memo Paris scent is warm and invigorating. A zesty, energetic blend of cardamom, coriander seed oil and violet-leaf are balanced with earthy resins and woods, alongside cedar atlas and gaiac wood oils. The result is a rich scent that perfectly embodies the alleys of Palermo and the heights of Taormina. net-a-porter.com

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £98 London-based, independent sustainable perfumer Floral Street has teamed up with the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam in a world fi rst for their latest fragrance, Sunflower Pop. Inspired by Van Gogh’s ‘Sunflowers, 1889’, the citrusy scent is a burst of optimism in a bottle, featuring sweet mandarin, natural Calabrian bergamot, warm honey notes and a Bellini accord to add a dash of effervescence, all housed in a reusable and biodegradable carton. floralstreet.com

CHRISTIAN DIOR Eden-Roc

Eau de Parfum, 25ml, £220 A love letter to the famous Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, this sensory, woody-floral fragrance transports you to the height of summer on the French Riviera. The latest edition to La Collection Privée Dior, Eden-Roc tells a story of the Mediterranean through notes of white flowers, citrus fruits, pine trees and marine accords. For extra holiday nostalgia points, the scent also contains a blend of suntan lotion with coconut at its core. dior.com

64

FRAGRANCES 14.indd 64

09/08/2021 18:34

T H E G L O S S A RY PA R T N E R S H I P

Scents of Adventure Bold, exhilarating, effervescent... the latest fragrance from The House of Creed, Viking Cologne, hits all the right notes for summer

I

nspired by wild Nordic adventures, The House of Creed’s latest cologne embodies the daring, pioneering spirit of the Vikings. An energising scent that’s bursting with summer freshness, the unisex Viking Cologne has been created to complement the bold, masculine spiciness of the original Viking fragrance, which launched back in 2017.

This new lighter fougère edition - created by sixth generation Master Perfumer Olivier Creed and his son Erwin, who took inspiration from the untamed beauty of the Norwegian fjords - encapsulates summertime with a refreshing zingy citrus twist that’s perfect for the warmer months and holidays.

Zesty top notes of mandarin, lemon, bergamot and pink pepper are tempered with a heart of lavender, patchouli, geranium and vetiver, whilst base notes of sandalwood, frankincense, rosemary and sage add an earthy, woody flourish.

As an eau de parfum, Viking Cologne is more intense and complex than a traditional cologne, with a high concentration of quality raw materials. Each spray takes you on an exhilarating sensory voyage across the globe with aromatic botanicals from around the world paying homage to the Vikings who’d often bring back ingredients from their travels.

Perfect for the modern explorer, this new fragrance is a must-have for loyal Creed fans or anyone searching for an invigorating summer scent. £175 (50ml), £240 (100ml) Creed Boutique, 99 Mount Street, Mayfair, W1 creedfragrances.co.uk

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

CREED ADV ISSUE 14_v2.indd 65

65

08/08/2021 23:39

58283 Creed 3 Bottle CREEDSP 03_21.indd 1 Ad_MAGAZINE_210x270.indd 1

10/03/2021 10:40 16:17

LA BELLA VITA Who’s ready for a dining experience that’s as decadent as it is delicious? Enter the rich, kitsch surroundings of Ave Mario, a cathedral paying homage to la cucina Italiana by way of Stanley Kubrick at his most exuberant courtesy of the Big Mamma Group’s in-house interior design team Studio Kiki. Just one of many larger-than-life openings across the capital (see restaurant reviews on page 70), it’s the bonkers backdrop to the new normal that nobody knew we needed. bigmammagroup.com

FOOD OPENER 14.indd 67

09/08/2021 00:26

Tasting Notes The new openings and

places to know across the capital this season

HAPPY BIRTHDAY HAKKASAN Can it really be 20 years since Hakkasan first sashayed into our lives, seducing us with dim sum and exotic cocktails? This summer, the hugely influential Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant celebrates two decades with a special £110 menu of its best loved signatures including supreme stock- braised lobster and stir-fried black pepper beef. From 21 July.

8 Hanway Place, Fitzrovia, W1 hakkasan.com

C o m p i l e d b y H I L A RY A R M ST RO N G

TWICE AS NICE

Going Dutch

The Seafood Bar that comes to Soho from Amsterdam this August is the first overseas venture for the aptly named De Visscher family, fishmongers in their native Netherlands since 1984.

On the menu, towering fruits de mer platters, shellfish a la plancha and crisp whites; on the agenda, sustainable sourcing, keen prices and zero waste.

77 Dean Street, Soho, W1 theseafoodbar.com

Not one but two Argentine imports have entered the grand surrounds of the former London College of Music building in Soho: Sucre and Abajo. The former is the first international outpost of Fernando Trocca’s twenty-year-old Buenos Aires institution; the latter, beneath it, hails from the Florería Atlántico stable (South America’s Best Bar, 2020). Come for modern Argentine flavours; stay for the highballs and live music.

47 Great Marlborough Street, W1 sucrerestaurant.com

East Meets West

DELI DELIGHTS Located in Marylebone, Yotam Ottolenghi’s latest deli is just the place to meet for lunch or pick up delicacies to take home. What to try? Salads – the likes of crushed beetroot with elderflower labneh and grains of paradise – and the cake, of course.

We recommend the Sicilian lemon and bay leaf.

63 Marylebone Lane, Marylebone, W1 ottolenghi.co.uk

TABLE TALK

FAMILY MATTERS

London’s oldest family-run restaurant Il Portico, est.1967, welcomes a new arrival in Pino, its new enoteca-osteria just a few doors down. Named after the owner’s father, Pino majors in Italian small plates – don’t miss the stuffed zucchini flowers or Campari-cured salmon – alongside wood-fired pizza and rare vermouths from the amaro bar.

267 Kensington High Street, W8 pinobar.co.uk

Power couple James Knappett and Sandia Chang have reopened their £250 a head, two Michelin star restaurant Kitchen Table after a full refurbishment. The British chef and Californian sommelier who met at New York’s Per Se have extended into what was Bubbledogs (RIP) and created a new lounge and bar with a list of rare grower champagnes (Chang’s specialist subject) and foraged cocktails.

70 Charlotte Street, Fitzrovia, W1 kitchentablelondon.co.uk

68

FOOD NOTES 14_v2.indd 68

11/08/2021 12:59

FOOD & DRINK

THREE CHEERS

It’s a trio of female talent behind The Pem, the fine-dining restaurant at Conrad London St James: Michelin star-winning consultant chef Sally Abé, manager Emma Underwood, and head chef Laetizia Keating.

Opulent dishes such as John Dory with caviar and sauce divine and peach melba pavlova are certain to make it a Westminster destination. The name, if you’re wondering, comes from the nickname of suffragette Emily Wilding Davison.

22-28 Broadway, Westminster, SW1 thepemrestaurant.com

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FO O D - D R I N K

FOOD NOTES 14_v2.indd 69

69

11/08/2021 13:00

Restaurant R E V I E W S

Bright Young Things London’s evolving restaurant scene is more dynamic than ever with new openings aplenty. Hilary Armstrong sets the scene

Bar des Pres 16 A lb em a rle St reet , M ay f a i r, W1 b arde s pre s .c om

C

yril Lignac, qui est’ il? Je l’ai googlé and I can tell you they call him the French ‘Jamie Oliver’. No disrespect to the lovable mockney, but I don’t see it. Sure, Lignac’s made a name for himself on the télé (he presents Le Meilleur Pâtissier, i.e., the French ‘Bake Off’), he’s tackled school dinners, and sold over three million cookbooks, but the sophisticated Franco-East Asian cuisine at his new London restaurant, Le Bar des Près, is anything but ‘bish, bash, bosh’.

It’s wonderful news for Mayfair that Lignac, owner of four Paris restaurants (including the original Bar des Près in Saint Germain) and a chain of high-end French patisseries, has chosen Albemarle Street for his first international restaurant. He may not (yet) be a household name here, but the excitement around his arrival is palpable. The booth tables are packed, but the best seats are at the bar and sushi counter, hewn from bronze-toned giallo reale marble.

From the first sip of our cocktails – the Plum Royal in cut glass coupe with rum, calvados, umeshu and matcha is sensational – we get the message: pleasure and complexity go here handin-hand. We start with an appetising dish of raw yellowtail in translucent curls with

slivers of green chilli and yuzu, and glistening Scottish salmon sushi with a dusting of lime. Then comes Lignac’s signature, a crunchy galette with a piquant curried crab layer, overlaid with fine slices of cool avocado. Sheer bliss. This is just the kind of food I find I crave: light, healthy, fresh, but packed with flavour. I’m not sold on the classic sushi and sashimi for the simple reason I can find it elsewhere, and there are some odd combinations (vanilla in the pomme purée, par exemple) but the distinctive dishes that combine Lignac’s French training (chez Alain

Passard and Pierre Hermé) with his love of spice (Korean, Thai, Indian...he’s a magpie) are unique. Seared chutoro with jalapeño and micro-pommes paille is one such, as is satay beef with lime pickle.

His famous mille-feuille is so patriotically French, however, it should be wearing a beret. Paris fashion doesn’t come cheap, so brace yourself for l’addition.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £250 SIGNATURE DISHES: Crunchy crab and avocado galette, Madras curry; Vanilla mille-feuille, pecan nuts praline.

WHAT TO DRINK: Plum Royal, Mayfair Sour.

70

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 14.indd 70

09/08/2021 00:34

FOOD & DRINK

XXXX

Harrod’s Social

by Ja so n At h e r to n

J

Ha r ro d s, 87-135 Brompton Road, K n i g ht sbr id ge, S W3 har ro d s .c om

ason Atherton is the latest star chef to join the Harrods’ roster following the arrival of Gordon Ramsay with his £80 burger on the fourth floor and Tom Kerridge with gourmet fish and chips in the Dining Hall. Atherton’s new Harrods Social is the perfect fit for the lower ground floor, where it sits easily among fine wines, cookbooks, cigars, watches and luggage – key preoccupations of the urbane, international traveller to whom Atherton’s brand speaks.

Atherton, whose Social Company operates as far afield as New York and Shanghai, has been instrumental in taking ‘modern British’ worldwide. Scanning the menu at Harrods Social, I see ingredients and dishes from my own repertoire – I roast chickens, I make pea risotto – but on the plate, they’re in another stratosphere. “I could do this at home” is one phrase I would never utter in a Jason Atherton restaurant.

Asparagus salad, for example, a picture-perfect plate garnished with a swirl of deepest green wild garlic purée and sunshine yellow egg yolk emulsion, conceals unannounced plump morels, lashings of truffle and shavings

of aged Parmesan. Devon crab with nashi pear and coriander, likewise, gets an extra hit of shellfish flavour from a clear sheet of crab jelly slipped between the shellfish and its leafy garnish. It’s clever stuff which goes some, if not all the way, to explaining the prices (main courses are from £28 to £65). Fine-dining touches and prices aside, the mood is very much modern ‘brasserie deluxe’. I’m not surprised to hear Atherton dines here with his children, nor that they agree with me: the Szechuan peppercornspiked crispy squid and white miso emulsion that comes with the hake is so good, it really should be a standalone dish.

Great minds and all that.

The wine list, from £42, is an edit of regional classics. Note: if what you want isn’t on the list, you can pop into the wine department and take your pick there. Anyone want to split a magnum of Margaux?

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £180 SIGNATURE DISHES: Cumbrian cob chicken, black truffle; Harrods Social club sandwich.

WHAT TO DRINK: Any wine from Harrods’ Fine Wine & Spirits Department.

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FO O D - D R I N K

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 14.indd 71

71

09/08/2021 00:34

Chameleon T

1 M a r y leb one Road, Regent ’s Pa rk, N W1 chamele on.london

he chameleon clambering on the restaurant’s logo is, as my astute friend observes, black on white – not camouflaged at all – as if to say, here’s one creature too lovely to be hidden away. One could say the same of Chameleon itself, a lush, garlanded space in and around Sir John Soane’s Grade I-listed church at One Marylebone.

Chameleon is an of-themoment, inside-outside venue, that by the end of the year will incorporate a club, restaurant, events space, private greenhouses, flower market (I defy you to leave without a big bunch of roses) and the Garden Lounge, where we have brunch. Our booking falls on a rainy day after a run of sunny ones but we’re under cover and the band (live jazz) plays on. Chameleon isn’t about to let a little weather cloud its status as the summer’s hottest brunch spot.

Israeli chef Elior Balbul brings his experience from Tel Aviv and New York to a sharing

menu that feels more familiar than it might have done ten years ago (credit to the Palomar etc for popularising modern Israeli here) but the scope of the ever-changing menu – sashimi, salads, breads, grills, vegetables and brunch classics such as shakshuka and ‘cowshuka’ – is very au courant.

Consider the yellowtail sashimi, which we have with radish, sumac and the crunch of crispy buckwheat; a friend had a version a few days previously with grilled pineapple, avocado and puffed rice which I imagine was just as good. Of the larger plates, squid with chickpeas, fried pita and tahini feels both comforting and new. The crowning glory, however, is the bread, whether sesamefreckled bagel, charred pita or buttery kubanna brioche, along with multifarious dips like coal-roasted aubergine, harissa, and fiery zhug. With so many flavours to chase around the plate – multiplied many times over when you’re sharing – the palate has to keep up, but that’s the Chameleon experience.

You’ll never be bored here.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £130 SIGNATURE DISHES: Jerusalem bagel or kubanna brioche with zhug, green chilli, crème fraîche and crushed tomato.

WHAT TO DRINK: The ‘Rimon’ cocktail, a pomegranate margarita.

B LU E B OA R

I

45 Toth i l l St reet, We st m i n ster, S W1 blueb oarlondon.c om

t’s 1pm at the Blue Boar Pub in Westminster and a senior politician is in conversational full flow: “...so he said ‘go and see this chap Dom Cummings at Vote Leave...” It’s tempting to hover nearby to hear how the story ends (as if we didn’t know), but we’re here for lunch, not gossip.

The Blue Boar is one of four new concepts at the five-star Conrad London St James, in a part of town long considered as conservative gastronomically as it is politically. Seeking to change that is Sally Abé, winner of a Michelin star at acclaimed gastropub the Harwood Arms in Fulham, now in charge of the hotel’s new cocktail bar, afternoon tea lounge, finedining restaurant and pub.

While her fine-dining restaurant, The Pem, plays to the ‘gastro’ side, her take on the pub is more traditionalist with spins on pub grub

favourites such as pork scratchings, Abé’s towering fallow deer burger with celeriac rémoulade and fried onion rings, and her famous Sunday roast and sticky toffee pudding. The touch of nostalgia is charming – how nice to see devilled whitebait, coronation chicken, even quiche on a menu again – but is all the better for being just one strand of a modern menu that also covers vegan options such as the umamipacking mushroom ‘sausage’ roll with pickled walnut ketchup, a sort of ‘BLT’, and a zesty, summery quinoa salad.

You don’t get that down the Dog and Duck. Westminster locals will certainly embrace it as ‘their’ spot, even once the passing tourists get wind of the traditional fish and chips (a snip at £16).

A glance around the room at the young, smart, female clientele confirms what the menu is telling us: Westminster is changing. It’s exciting to see Sally Abé’s cooking respond to that.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £90 SIGNATURE DISHES:Blue Boar DISHES: burger; Sunday roast.

WHAT TO DRINK: Meantime beer on draught.

72

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 14.indd 72

300 WORDS

09/08/2021 00:34

Restaurant R E V I E W S

NOMAD R E S TAU R A N T & B A R NoM ad L ondon, 28 B ow St reet, C ovent G a rden, WC2 the noma d hotel.c om

D

ining at the NoMad Hotel London, you’d never know the hospitality industry is undergoing a staffing crisis. The bars and restaurants within the former Bow Street Magistrates’ Court are positively teeming with talent. Take Bella, sommelier to our table, a friendly Portland native, who’s as happy to chat about Portland-set TV show Shrill as she is to guide us through the epic wine list. She finds us an unforgettable, delicately perfumed ten-year-old Sicilia Rosso from the Calabretta estate on Etna, new to both me and my wine-loving friend. I’ve no doubt it will be the hotel’s focus on its people that will turn it from slick newcomer to much adored local.

A drink in the bar first is a must, either the Atrium

bar, for the fringed velvet bar stools alone, or the Library with its shelves of art books. After one cocktail (an excellent Dirty Martini), it’s a wrench to leave the Library, but a joy to enter the foliage-bedecked restaurant, a triple-height, glass-ceilinged ‘wow’ of a room that must be as bright by day as it is atmospheric by night.

Chef Ashley Abodeeley (ex-NoMad Los Angeles) references the hotel group’s New York story and its signatures of fruits de mer and a £70 ‘NoMad Chicken Dinner’, alongside contemporary comforts favoured by today’s luxury traveller: crudo (the sea bream with mint and pickled strawberries is divine); pasta (perhaps tagliatelle with king crab and Meyer lemon); all things woodfired (the Korean yam ‘from the embers’ must be the world’s best baked

spud); and Grade I protein such as suckling pig with wild greens. There are a few teething troubles (we visit early), like the set of the ice cream in the affogato with cacao nibs and coffee granita and the coarse cut of a venison tartare, but it’s nothing this dream team can’t sort. We’ll be back to see Side Hustle, the hotel’s Mexican ‘pub’, and Common Decency, its cocktail bar opening in 2022.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £180 SIGNATURE DISHES: Nomad Plateau ‘Grand Fruits de Mer’; Nomad Chicken Dinner WHAT TO DRINK: Nomad Classics – ‘Hot Lips’ or ‘Sippy Cup’.

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FO O D - D R I N K

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 14.indd 73

73

09/08/2021 00:34

Restaurant R E V I E W S

Ave Mario

15 Hen r iet t a St reet , C ovent G a rden, WC2 big mam ma g roup.c om

R

estaurateurs and archprovocateurs Victor Lugger and Tigrane Seydoux, founders of Paris’s Big Mamma group, love a bit of toilet humour. Only they would think to put a fish eye mirror on the wall opposite the loo, so customers can sit and watch themselves ‘go’ framed by a rainbow of colourful neon lights. I have to laugh. What ever will they come up with next?

Ave Mario is their answer to the big question: how do you follow up Gloria and Circolo Popolare, two of the most extravagantly praised and outrageously accoutred London restaurants in recent years? With some 295 covers across three floors, two terraces totalling some 7,000 sq ft, Ave Mario is their most O.T.T site to date and that’s saying something. Where Gloria offered a Dolce & Gabbana-do-Capri fantasy and Circolo Popolare took us to a wisteria-hung, whitewashed Sicilian courtyard, Ave Mario imagines ‘an idyllic day in Florence’ which, in the Big Mamma universe, involves greeters in Fiorucci jumpsuits, baby pizzas topped with caviar, and enormo-cocktails the size of my head. A queue had formed outside the door when we arrived at 5pm for an early supper.

Of course, it looks magnificent.

On the ground floor, carmine velvet booths pop against black and white stripes (a nod to Siena cathedral); in the basement (sexier, clubbier) Saarinen chairs and kitsch souvenir ceramics bounce off the mirrored ceiling; another area involves gingham tablecloths, terracotta tiles, and vintage travel posters. Like every other diner before me, I’m snapping away for my Stories even before I’ve taken my seat.

But we’re not here to take photographs; we’re here to eat. Ave Mario has a young chef, 23-year-old Andrea Zambrano in his first head chef

role. He presents a few Big Mamma classics – ‘Il Gran Carpaccio’, ‘Il Tigramisù’ – but the rest, from the swanky caviar dishes, to the pneumatic pizzas, filled pasta, and the two-feet-tall ice cream cake, are all new. From the cocktail list, a spritzy peachy ‘Federico Bellini’ gets things off to a good start. I like its tart lemon foam and love its understated form; I’ll give the fruit-bedecked mega cocktails (‘Jumbo Mamma’, ‘Spritz on the Beach’ etc) a swerve this time.

The meal itself begins well with a generous jumble of anchovies, olives, curls of fried dough, and hunks of good Parmesan, then fresh langoustine ‘tacos’ made of fragile carta di musica bread. Simple and seductive, the sweet ripe melon pairs beautifully with the salty, oily caviar.

They’re using Italian Baeri caviar from Venice; Big Mamma may not be serious about everything but they are serious about sourcing.

It's a shame that the new dish I'm most excited about 'Giant Ravioli alla Carbonara' doesn't quite land.

The ravioli sound sensational with their crispy guanciale and runny yolks but the eggs in mine are set to the point of semi-solidity and the point of the dish is lost. Happily, the ‘XXL’ veal milanese for two that comes next, fried in more butter than I care to imagine, is delicious. Haute cuisine it may not be, but the portions are epic, the prices fair.

74

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 14.indd 74

09/08/2021 00:34

FOOD & DRINK

MAYA The Hoxton, 1 Willow Street, S hore d itch, E C2 s ohohou s e.c om

I For dolci, everyone but everyone orders the ‘Giant Stracciatella Gelato’ (‘60cm of pure pleasure’).

Heads turn as it’s carted from tableto-table – rubbernecking is a way of life at Ave Mario – and cameras roll as the waiter douses each wedge in caramel sauce from a ceramic wild boar head (don’t even ask).

It’s all good silly fun, in service to what’s essentially an upgraded Viennetta at £9 a serving. It may not make sense but after the year we’ve had, it may be just what we need.

Mamma mia, Big Mamma has done it again.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £90 SIGNATURE DISHES: Baby Pizza with Mozzarella, Caviar and Crème fraîche; Giant Ravioli Alla Carbonara; Giant Stracciatella Gelato.

WHAT TO DRINK: Jumbo Mamma; Negroni Par-Tea.

f you know, you know. That’s the fuzzy feeling I get – one part smug, one part (momentarily) cool – as I make my way up to Maya on the rooftop of The Hoxton via the discreet Willow Street entrance, the kind of unremarkable back door you could walk past a hundred times and not notice. I’ve missed this feeling! The anticipation of entering a portal into somewhere unexpected, feeding off the crowd, the design, the atmosphere.

Maya, a co-production between Soho House and the Hoxton, started life in January 2019 as a pop-up at Soho House West Hollywood. It’s notched up some air miles since, having done residencies in New York, Berlin and London before settling in Shoreditch. Its origins may be L.A, but the view from this seventh-floor perch is London gold, and all the better with a margarita.

If you like Decimo at the Standard (what is it with style hotels and rooftop Mexican restaurants?) then consider Maya, with its cosy ‘70s ranch aesthetic, your more affordable go-to.

First cocktails. The list, for me, is near perfect – only half a dozen, all

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FO O D - D R I N K

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 14.indd 75

mezcal and tequilabased, but I reckon I could sink one of each, from the neon ‘Naked and Famous’ with Chartreuse and Aperol to 2021’s ‘it’ drink, the Paloma. (As West End cocktails inch closer to £20, let’s enjoy a well-made drink for £12 while we can). The ‘coastal Baja-Mexican’ cooking is fresh, fun and fast. The famous guacamole trolley has travelled over from LA, while new dishes for London include several marked ‘pb’ (plant-based) such as mushroom quesadillas and pretty squash blossom tacos. It’s the seafood that seduces us, however, particularly spicy tuna tostada with threads of fried leek and chipotle aioli, and a butterflied bass, one half red with chilli adobo, the other green with herb marinade.

To finish, a paper bag of piping hot churros dusted with sugar.

Sometimes it’s the simple things, and Maya does them well.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £100 SIGNATURE DISHES: Guacamole from the cart WHAT TO DRINK: Mezcal and tequila cocktails.

75

09/08/2021 00:35

My Glossary

OUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS Andi & Miquita Oliver A s t o l d t o LARA KILNER P o r t r a i t A L I C I A WA I T E FO R YO L K E

Food often lies at the heart of a family’s fondest memories – something chef and Great British Menu host Andi Oliver and her TV presenter daughter Miquita know well. Here they reveal their top dining spots in the capital

76

FOOD & DRINK

THE MARKSMAN

254 Hackney Road, Hackney, E2 marksmanpublichouse.com Andi: Good food is all about the details. You can have Michelin stars coming out of your ears but if there isn’t enough thought and care, it shows on the plate almost immediately.

Everything at this award-winning East End pub is beautifully finessed. They do a brown butter tart and – oh my God – it’s just perfect. The last time I went there I ate it too fast and had to have a little lie down. On a Sunday they do a shared shoulder of lamb they’ve cooked overnight that's so soft and buttery and luscious and perfectly seasoned, and there will always be more gravy. I can’t abide a chef who is tight with gravy, it just upsets me, but The Marksman is very good at abundance.

It exists really well in all seasons, too.

It is so summery and bright and light, and yet also cosy and inviting and nurturing in winter. It’s one of our goto places for a mother-daughter lunch.

We’re quite good dining partners, though Miquita goes nuts if you order the same thing as her.

Miquita: I like eating with mum because she has a lot of food knowledge and I have a lot of questions. We were at The Marksman recently and all we ordered was a plate of pickles and they were

amazing – that’s how good it is. It used to be an old man’s pub and it still looks like a proper pub outside but, inside, it’s like an old-fashioned French brasserie.

It has great wine glasses and all the waiters are uniformed, but not in an uptight way.

There are beautiful salads and grilled fish, all served with crisp white wine.

BENTLEY’S OYSTER BAR 11-15 Swallow Street, Mayfair W1 bentleys.org Andi: What can I say? It's actually perfect.

The chef owner, Richard Corrigan, is one of the best humans I know, and his personality is exemplified in this, one of his flagship restaurants. The food is so well judged – Richard is the king of fish and he has an incredible way of creating classic dishes, like a fish pie or a whole dover sole, but adding his own little touches. Take his sole meunière, which

has these barely discernible slivers of grapefruit on the top. Everything in there is chosen with such care and love and humour. They do Vietnamese oysters with fish sauce and lots of crispy garlic, chilli and fresh coriander that are so delicious, they make your toes curl.

We had my brother’s 50th birthday there soon after the lockdown first eased and we were slightly nervous T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FO O D - D R I N K

to go out, but the whole night was just beautiful, with so many touches of elegance. The service is brilliantly balanced between really knowledgeable sommeliers and waiters, who come at just the right moment when you need to order, talk just the right amount of time and then leave again without imposing, which is actually really hard.

77

HOME & INTERIORS

SCOTT’S

20 Mount Street, Mayfair, W1 scotts-restaurant.com Miquita: Me and my friend Lily [Allen] first went to Scott’s when we were in our early 20s and we’d started making a bit of money. We were always out around Soho and decided we needed to go for some nice dinners – I really love fish, so Scott’s in Mayfair became a favourite. It’s such a classic restaurant, you feel like you’re floating the whole time you’re in there. I went there with Lily and her husband again before the pandemic and we had the most special fish any of us had ever eaten, a lemon sole that was so delicate and memorable.

I love sitting in Scott’s because the lighting is really gentle and it feels like there’s a lot of history all around me. It’s like a secret little bubble, and there are always people like Shirley Bassey sitting on the next table. But then there are also plenty of families celebrating special occasions. They do a great Martini. I always have a vodka martini with an olive. A clean, clear cold cocktail and a great piece of fish. I love that place. I don't go enough.

78

NANBAN

426 Coldharbour Lane, Brixton, SW9 nanban.co.uk Andi: Nanban is owned by my friend and former Masterchef winner Tim Anderson, who I do The Kitchen Cabinet with on Radio 4. Often, you dream of having a really great bowl of ramen noodles with a sticky broth, don’t you? Well, Tim’s broth takes about three days to make and there are layers and layers of flavour that he’s worked incredibly hard on to get just right. He studied in Japan and now he lives in Brixton, and he does a really clever thing where he brings together produce from Brixton market and Japanese traditional cooking methods to makes these incredible dishes – last time we went we had a baked white sweet potato with ponzu butter that was so, so delicious.

We took our great nephew Flynn there for a late birthday dinner and had these platters of chicken wings that made me need another lie down. The music is banging too and they have booths to sit in – I do love a booth – as well as some brilliant records, like Japanese editions of Tom Jones albums, all over the walls. Tim has truly nailed it.

FOOD & DRINK

PRIMEUR

116 Petherton Road, Stoke Newington, N5 primeurn5.co.uk

ROCHELLE CANTEEN

16 Playground Gardens, Shoreditch, E2 arnoldandhenderson.com Miquita: I always used to see Margot Henderson at The Groucho Club when I was younger – she kept an eye on me, because people who knew our parents would always watch out for me and Lil when we were out. So we’d talked a lot, but I’d never eaten her food. And it’s so good. At Rochelle Canteen, I feel like I’m eating seasons. I’ve never been anywhere else where the vegetables have been so respected and looked after and given the time they deserve to really shine as dishes on their own – you can tell it's run by two women [Margot and Melanie Arnold]. I had this broad bean and feta dish, which isn’t that unusual in itself, but it was just so fresh and zingy and alive in my mouth.

It’s my kind of food – I really like classic English dishes and simple, clean cooking. It's quite a gentle eating experience, because there aren’t loads of people and the menu isn’t very long, so you feel there's real care and attention to all of the dishes. And I love the story behind it – it's in an old Victorian school in Hackney and every time you walk in you feel like you’re going into a secret garden. It’s a very special place.

Miquita: Primeur is in an old car showroom, with an open glass front on a lovely classic north London street. I went recently with my friend for his birthday and I knew it was going to be exactly what we needed. It’s all small plates and they encourage you to just share, share, share, so it’s perfect for a table of about four people. I like to be really brave and adventurous when I’m there and I always eat something I've never had, like rabbit, which was so good, cooked up with beans like a sort of cassoulet. They also do some incredible pasta.

They don’t serve spirits in the restaurant, but they have a brilliant list of low-intervention wines, which changes daily, and they do a great side dish. We got a whole radish with the leaves on, with butter and salt. Simple. They really know how to let their ingredients sing.

DARJEELING EXPRESS

2a Garrick Street, Covent Garden, WC2 darjeeling-express.com Andi: Chef owner Asma Khan is another one of my favourite human beings on the planet. The Darjeeling Express started out as a supper club for south Asian women who missed home and, from that, she went on to become the first British chef on Chef's Table, which is quite a big thing considering all the chefs they could have chosen. But they chose Asma because she is just extraordinary. People in Darjeeling Express cry because the biryani tastes exactly like their grandma's biryani. It’s stunning food, the spicing is perfectly balanced and Asma sort of floats around the restaurant talking to everyone – she's one of those people, it’s like she’s rooted in the earth. She makes you feel better about being a human being and about being alive.

It's not elegant in the way that a Michelin-starred restaurant is, but it's elegant in my mind because of the beautiful nature of the food. There's a whole kitchen full of women who were home cooks that Asma has created a team of chefs from – you can feel their energy in the restaurant. Magical food made by magical people.

Wadadli's new barbecue boxes are available from August at wadadlikitchen.com

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FO O D - D R I N K

79

The leading Greek villa rental specialists for over 20 years

True Greece from the comfort of a home (+44) 7930 287 742

5 STAR GREECE 03_21.indd 1

www.fivestargreece.com

enquiries@fivestargreece.com

04/05/2021 14:15

ALPINE CHIC Never has self-care been more meaningful. So it’s serendipitous that esteemed Swiss medi-spa Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, which sits in the flower-carpeted foothills of the Alps, has recently launched its latest health and wellbeing concept, the NewYou Method. Seamlessly incorporating all the resort’s strengths – from its superlative holistic treatments to five-star facilities and culinary prowess – in a portfolio of unique programmes, this new approach promises guests comprehensive, results-based and sustainable experiences from detoxing to de-stressing, and everything in between. resortragaz.ch

TRAVEL OPENER 14.indd 81

10/08/2021 08:41

Travel Notes

Reconnect in Indonesia, drift away in Anguilla and go wild in Scotland C o m p i l e d b y HARRIET COOPER

FANTASY ISLAND Bawah Reserve - a private archipelago in Indonesia, only accessible by seaplane - is an off-grid idyll, with its pristine beaches, crystalline lagoons teeming with parrot fish and turtles, and thatched ecoconscious villas. Now guests (over-18s only) can stay on the previously untouched island of Elang, where six sustainably-minded lodges have been built into the cliffside. Each one comes with a butler, sweeping views, and a private path that wends its way down to the sea.

Elang also has a clubhouse complete with open-air bar, beachside restaurant, as well as a spa and salt water infinity pool. For the ultimate in barefoot Robinson Crusoe luxe, book the entire place for exclusive use. bawahreserve.com

Caribbean Idyll

TROPICAL BREEZE For a slice of true paradise, stay at Cap Juluca, a Belmond Hotel on the Caribbean isle of Anguilla, and charter a sailing boat to Prickly Pear Cays. Drop anchor and spend a dreamy few hours snorkelling and swimming with turtles in the pristine, coral-rich waters, before rewarding your efforts with grilled lobster and rum punch. belmond.com

GREEK ODYSSEY

Those looking for understated luxury should head to the Greek island of Antiparos and the newlyopened The Rooster. Tucked away between the unspoilt beaches of the Aegean coastline, the emphasis here is on slow living with 17 beautifully-designed suites, villas and houses set amongst landscaped gardens, a pool, spa and organic menu. theroosterantiparos.com

82

TRAVEL NOTES 14.indd 82

11/08/2021 13:04

T R AV E L

WILD TIMES

CITY SLICKER

Vanessa Branson is an expert at creating otherworldly holiday havens (she owns El Fenn in Morocco) and her beautiful private Scottish island Eilean Shona is no exception. Rent the 18th-century hunting lodge - a luxury boutique hotel-meets-well-loved family home – in its entirety or you can book the newly-launched five-night ‘experience break’ for wild swimming, dolphin spotting, fire-cooked feasting and champagne drinking.

eileanshona.com

Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid has recently reopened following an extensive renovation, the most ambitious in its 110-year history. While purists will appreciate that the hotel has retained its striking Belle Époque character throughout, those seeking luxury will marvel at the 153 exquisitely-appointed rooms, Michelin-starred chef Quique Dacosta’s culinary concept, and the new spa retreat with its heated pool and excellent treatments. mandarinoriental.com

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / T R AV E L

TRAVEL NOTES 14.indd 83

83

11/08/2021 13:04

Wanderlust

White Isle

MAGIC Owner of Ibiza’s best-known vintage store, Annie Doble shares her favourite secret spots on the island W o r d s b y LUCIANA BELLINI

A

sk anyone on the island and they all know Annie’s, the legendary Ibiza shop nestled in the old town – and by extension they all know Annie Doble, the effervescent 28-year-old Londoner behind it.

Crammed full of vintage gowns and one-off pieces, this is where the cool crowd head for their party looks, with Kate Moss, Rita Ora and Adwoa Aboah all regulars.

Doble first visited Ibiza in her late teens and swiftly fell head over heels for the island’s hedonistic charms. After running a vintage stall in Spitalfields Market when she was 17, it was in Ibiza that she eventually set up her own shop, aged just 25. The boutique quickly garnered an illustrious following, with clients heading straight from their yachts to pick up vintage gems such as psychedelic Gucci flares and tailored Thierry Mugler jackets to pieces from New-Gen designers including Ashish, Clio Peppiatt and Germanier.

A typical summer on the island for Doble consists of a mix of heady parties and elegant dinners with Ibiza’s fashion elite to low-key bonfires on the beach with locals. Whether you’re looking for Ibiza’s buzziest restaurants and bars or would rather get away from it all in a secluded bay or off-the-beaten-track beach, Doble is the one to ask. Here she pulls together a decade’s worth of insider knowledge to reveal the ultimate way to enjoy the jewel in the Balearic crown.

84

ANNIES IBIZA 14.indd 84

11/08/2021 13:07

T R AV E L

Ibiza has many well-known places, but for me the magic lies in its secret spots. My go-to beach for escaping the crowds is in Cala Xarraca cove – it has a walkway along the side of the beach and a swing that goes straight into the sea. I’ve been going there since I was 18. For swimming, my favourite place is actually in Formentera, just by Chezz Gerdi restaurant. It’s an amazing spot because there’s a little reef there and the water is so clear, so it’s great for snorkelling.

You see hundreds of little fish, tiny neon pink ones, and it’s just beautiful. I’m excited for the secret parties that are happening this year at private homes up in the mountains – they all have the most incredible underground clubs in their houses.

It’s known for its hedonism, but sometimes you need to escape all that.

I freedive a lot, as that’s the only place where I can get real peace – when I’m under water and I haven’t got my phone with me. My friends and I will take a little Zodiac inflatable boat out to loads of different places and go freediving all day – I can dive down as far as 15 or 20 metres.

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

ANNIES IBIZA 14.indd 85

My favourite spot is the Cueva de la Luz, the Cave of Light, in the north of the island, which is an amazing underwater cave that’s flooded with sunlight.

So many things on the island fill me with awe. My favourite view has to be the one of the magical rock of Es Vedrà off the south coast – it is said to be the third most magnetic place in the world and has long been referred to as the source of Ibiza’s inexplicable energy.

I love going to the special viewpoint, which is on a rocky outcrop just before you get to Cala d’Hort beach – from here you can watch the sun going down behind the island. And I always take people who are new to the island straight up to the top of the castle in the Old Town, where you can see the whole view of Ibiza. It’s so beautiful, especially at night. The sense of history all around you is amazing – you walk down all the cobbled streets and there are no cars. It’s like living in a poem there.

85

11/08/2021 13:07

PICTURES BELOW: Hostal La Torre, Six Senses Ibiza, La Olivia Ibiza, Rita Ora and Kate Moss in Annie's Ibiza.

This year’s new opening to know is the Six Senses hotel. Located above Cala Xarraca bay on the northern tip of the island, the hotel is incredible – there is a great pool, amazing views plus a 13,000 sq ft spa space with out of this world treatments. I’ve been spending a lot of time recently as we launched a mini Annie’s concession just last month in their sustainable concept store Agora.

Ibiza has a real spirit of creativity.

I stock a few incredible local designers in my shop, like Javier Osorio, who designs and makes the most amazing hand-beaded pieces. Everything is hand beaded on the island, and some of his pieces can take 50 hours or more to make. I also love Isabel Moore’s chainmail pieces, which are also created in Ibiza.

Ibiza is home to some of my favourite independent boutiques and markets. For antiques I’ll go to Troc in Santa Eulalia, which is a real secret spot of mine. It’s great for vintage clothes and second-hand furniture.

I also love Sluiz, just outside Santa Gertrudis, where you can find the most amazing quirky bits of furniture and clothing. Sant Jordi flea market is full of incredible antique gems – I’ve bought everything from photo frames to sofas there. I also love going to the Las Dalias hippy market, which has great live music in the evenings.

You’ll find me at the same restaurant every single night.

La Oliva, which is right in front of my shop in the old town, is my go-to spot.

The street that it’s on, Carrer de la Santa Creu, is my favourite street in the

86

ANNIES IBIZA 14.indd 86

11/08/2021 13:07

T R AV E L

The Glossary Edit

Annie Doble’s Ibiza wardrobe

world because it’s always got such a fun vibe. All the restaurants on that street actually have their own little dish just for me, the ‘Annie dish’, because I’m a vegetarian so they make me something special. At La Oliva, it’s usually a truffle pasta. For a lazy lunch I’ll go to Jondal, which is next door to the infamous Blue Marlin beach club. It opened last year and has a great vibe – you always bump into someone you know there.

It’s just as beautiful inside as it is on the beach, and the food is amazing, with loads of fresh fish and vegetarian options for me.

For cocktails, the best bar is Hostal La Torre. It’s this really cute old

Spanish restaurant, bar and boutique hotel that’s set up high in the Cap Negret cliffs in San Antonio, overlooking the sea. It’s one of the most special places to watch the sunset while drinking a lychee Martini.

The real Ibiza can be found in the north of the island. One of my favourite things to do is sit around a bonfire with lots of friends who were born here – for me, that’s the real rock and roll of Ibiza, the soul of the island.

All my friends were born here or grew up here – that’s the side of the island I like the most. anniesibiza.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

ANNIES IBIZA 14.indd 87

FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: GIGI STUDIOS Emilia Sunglasses, £185, gigistudios.com CLIO PEPPIATT Celestial Jumpsuit, £2,850 JAVIER OSORIO Sofia Sunset Dress, £1,450 AQUAZZURA Yes Darling Mule 95, £700, aquazzura.com TALLER MARMO Virna Mini Garden Skirt, £745 CLIO PEPPIATT Louis Mini Dress, £1,950 MIA VESPER Rainbow Dress, £475 ANNIE’S ARCHIVE Lavender Bag, £120 ANNIE’S ARCHIVE Azulitos Boots, £495 All pieces available from anniesibiza.com unless stated

87

11/08/2021 13:07

COLE & SON ISSUE 14.indd 1

Alfaro 117/4010

cole-and-son.com

15/07/2021 17:16

HOME & INTERIORS

COCKTAIL HOUR In search of the perfect shape cocktail glass, Tom Dixon consulted his Coal Office restaurant team and mixologists to create the new Puck range of glassware.

Using geometrical forms as his reference point, the glasses – from coupes and flutes to tumblers and highballs – are pared back in design, with a heavy-weighted thick base inspired by hockey pucks. Ultra-modern with a refined smoky-hue, these mouth-blown glasses will elevate any home bar. £70 for a set of two coupe glasses; tomdixon.net

HOMES OPENER 14.indd 90

10/08/2021 13:08

Design Notes

Candy-coloured glassware, one-of-a-kind ceramics and offbeat lighting C o m p i l e d b y A M Y M O O R E A WO N G

COLOUR PLAY

Get them while they’re hot… These vibrant hand-blown glasses – from sustainable homeware accessories brand Casa Celva – are flying off the shelves thanks to their delicate, decorative detailing. Limoncello, anyone?

Murano shot glasses, £38 for four casacelva.com

THE FINE PRINT

Wish List

Drawing inspiration from the Seville neighbourhood that’s famed for its ceramic workshops and potteries, Cole & Son’s Triana wallpaper print renders vibrant botanical and geometric motifs that conjure the look of antique tiles in a Spanish villa. cole-and-son.com

HOT PLATES Welcome to the world Henry Holland Studio, a homeware passion project by the designer, which has debuted with a chic collection of table top ceramics, from salad bowls to serving platters. Using a stylised version of the Japanese marbling technique of Nerikomi, each organically-patterned piece is totally unique.

Dinner plate £45 henryhollandstudio.com

HOT BED

Top up your tan in style with Italian brand Cassina’s Trampoline sunbed by Patricia Urquiola. With colour and curves in all the right places, it will add summer-on-Lake-Como vibes to any outdoor space. Just add sunshine. £4,395 chaplins.co.uk

90

HOME NOTES_14.indd 90

11/08/2021 13:09

HOME & INTERIORS

ROSE TINTED

LEADING LIGHT

Like a perfectly iced cake, the gravity-defying, candy-like swirls of Magic Circus Éditions’ Balloon floor lamps are sure to raise spirits this summer.

Created at the revered Venini glassworks in historic Italian glass hub Murano, each shade is expertly mouth blown to form exquisite patterns in playful brights and monochromes – delicious works of art whether on, or off.

ink pink this season and get decorative with the prettiest of hues.

A shade that tells stories of freshly picked posies, creamy scoops of gelato and dusky summer skies, it’ll add to the dreamlike feel of hazy, sun-dappled evenings.

From £4,259 magic-circus.fr

FROM TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: HELLE MARDAHL Candy Glass Jar, £1,140; matches-fashion.com DIPTYQUE Roses Scented Candle, 600g, £140; libertylondon.com MARSET Bicoca Portable Table Lamp, £183; nest.co.uk LR+D LAB x LEE MATHEWS Luisa Wine Glasses, £115; matches-fashion.com HAY Rainbow Light Pink Bowl, £9; royaldesign.co.uk PETITE FRITURE Week-End Bench, £755; madeindesign.co.uk CLAIRE GAUDION Dunes Dawn Cushion, £95; wolfandbadger.com BRDR KRUGER BØlling Tray Table – Model 50, £422; skandium.com BUSINESS & PLEASURE CO. Lauren’s Stripe Umbrella, £580; selfridges.com &TRADITION Fly SC1 Lounge Chair in White Oiled Oak, £2,013; nest.co.uk

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

HOME NOTES_14.indd 91

91

11/08/2021 13:09

COUNTRY PURSUITS Interiors influencer Paula Sutton’s uplifting chronicles of life at her Norfolk home have seen her amass a huge social-media following.

Here she talks personal style, positivity and why she finds pleasure in imperfection

W o r d s O L I V I A L I D B U RY

A

t one point during our Zoom interview, Paula Sutton springs up from the desk in her garden office to do a twirl to show off her checked and colourful swishy skirt by Italian brand Dado D. Her hair is neatly tied in a ponytail with a simple ribbon and her shirt is white and crisp.

“My clothes are for being worn,” she explains unapologetically. “I turn 52 this year, if I don’t wear all my clothes now, when is this supposedly golden time meant to come?”

Sutton doesn’t live quite like the rest of us (that is to say, hiding in the comfort of joggers for video calls and peacocking purely for Instagram), and it’s this unique, joyful filter on life that has won her a devoted audience of half a million Instagram followers.

If you're not already following @hillhousevintage then here’s a quick recap: Sutton moved to a Georgian country house in Norfolk from south London with her husband and their three children

92

HOME & INTERIORS

11 years ago. Headed for burnout, she left behind a fast-paced career working as a bookings editor on a fashion magazine, swapping business travel for dog walks with the aim of focussing on motherhood. After losing out on a series of what she and her husband initially believed were their dream properties – “I thought I wanted acres of land but in hindsight we were saved from ourselves” – they bought Hill House.

“I fell for its original features, the height of the ceilings and, of course, the symmetry,” she says. “I am a great fan of Georgian architecture as I find it so pleasing on the eye.” She is equally enamoured with the surrounding countryside – “I love the vast open spaces of Norfolk and the big skies. It’s very much a working county, agricultural and unpretentious. And we have the best sunsets.”

Paula originally entertained launching an interiors business but found solace in writing, documenting craft projects and vintage discoveries on her blog as she adapted to life in the countryside. Her Instagram account followed in 2014 as another creative outlet and this October sees the release of her first book: Hill House Living: The Art of Creating a Joyful Life.

“A personal take on traditional country house style – but with brighter pops of colour and a bit more humour,” is how Sutton describes her taste in interiors. “I mix period pieces and antiques with things that have a vintage flavour – faded chintz, ticking stripes and checks, and anything with a button back and wooden furniture with scallops and curves.

“Buy what you love, your space should be uniquely you. Don’t follow fashion or trends" T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

93

There’s a lot of femininity in the things I love, but it’s counteracted to stop it being too saccharine. I prefer things to be slightly imperfect.”

And it has proved to be Instagram catnip – long before cottagecore became a liberally applied hashtag. One can only dream of having the problem of decking out a picturesque home that looks like a doll’s house – and the ensuing outbuildings (the newest of which is a potting shed) – with vintage treasures. But her gift is taking everyone on the journey and transporting you back in time.

Her taste never shocks but delights; “I love things with history and objects that have a story. I studied art history and am drawn to timeless things,” she explains. “I also think that if a piece of furniture has lasted many years, it shows its quality and craftsmanship and that should be celebrated and supported.”

“It’s also an incredibly economical way of furnishing a house, which is really what propelled my passion for buying vintage furniture in the first place,” she continues. She name-checks Portobello Road, Lots Road Auctions, the pre-loved sections in Liberty and The Old Cinema on Chiswick High Road as her go-tos in the capital, but has long embraced buying directly

“There’s a lot of femininity in the things I love, but it’s counteracted to stop it being too saccharine. I prefer things to be slightly imperfect" from Instagram sellers like Reclectic Vintage Interiors. Other independent brands she favours include Nordic home textiles label Projekti Tyyny, Flora Soames, Barneby Gates and Our Lovely Goods. Her advice is simple: “Buy what you love, your space should be uniquely you. Don’t follow fashion or trends.”

Almost daily you’ll find her on Instagram in semi-staged scenarios 94

emulating Alice in Wonderland drinking tea on her lawn, or sharing a Reels showing the transformation of a patch of land into a kitchen garden.

It sounds like it should be terribly smug, but through Sutton’s unique blend of the genuine (her content is her real life, eg. pulling up lettuces for lunch) and the tongue-in-cheek, the effect is uplifting, humorous and the

HOME & INTERIORS

much-needed burst of escapism that many have relished since the start of the pandemic. “I do have occasional wobbles, thinking: ‘Is this whole Pollyanna, alwayshappy-state awful for people to just see constantly?’ But I get floods of messages from people going through real-life trauma saying: ‘I look forward to seeing your posts because I know it’s going to make me smile.’ I think I’m like a comforting mug of cocoa at the end of an evening for some people.”

Her success also feeds hope for others considering an unlikely career U-turn: “I have this amazing new life which started post-50, which is just wonderful,” she says of the brand partnerships and opportunities coming her way.

Sutton’s own personal style echoes her home. “I like it to have a feel of another time, even if everything isn’t strictly vintage.

I wear lots of full skirts and I love the 1940s and ‘50s aesthetic.”

Dresses by Son de Flor are an easy way to tap into Sutton’s cheery, nostalgic outlook, and she is partial to dresses by Emilia Wickstead as a “real treat”.

But she wasn’t always so confident; when Sutton first moved to Norfolk, she felt her look was “too flash for living opposite a field, so I started dressing down wearing my husband’s old jumpers and waxed jackets and jeans and I found myself becoming very miserable.

I realised that cutting off the part of me that loved fashion wasn’t good for my mental health or happiness, so I found a way of rediscovering my love of clothes and fashion to make it work with my new life and my surroundings.

I went back to pieces that were joyful and colourful but with boots and brogues – I can’t do heels anymore!”

It’s this understanding of not always being comfortable in your own skin that helps her bat

The Glossary Edit

Paula Sutton’s Country Classics

FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: COCO & WOLF Mitsi Wicker Picnic Basket, £160; libertylondon.com BORDALLO PINHEIRO Cabbage Bowls, from £22; amara.com WICKLEWOOD Liberté Cushion, £225; wicklewood.com HOT POTTERY Cake Stand, £90; hotpottery.com SIR/MADAM Rialto Coupe Glasses, £60 for 2; libertylondon.com MATILDA GOAD Breakfast Set, £264; matchesfashion.com SUMMERILL & BISHOP Stripe Linen Tablecloth, £275; summerillandbishop.com POOKY LIGHTING Paisley Empire Lampshade, from £36; pooky.com LOEWE Ivy Scented Candle, £145; net-a-porter.com VAISELLE Drink Me Gingham Jug, £75; libertylondon.com ANNA + NINA Fiesta Glass Vase, £21.95; libertylondon.com EDITION 94 Swirl Candles 29cm £6.50 each; theedition94.com BRIDIE HALL Alphabet Pots £40; pentreath-hall.com

T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

away any occasional negativity on social media. “A negative comment is almost always a sign of someone’s own unhappiness and discontent, and I can’t be upset by that. I know what it’s like to feel miserable, so I am totally sympathetic. But if someone thinks I’m oblivious to what’s going in the world, then often I’ll have a conversation about that, and say that the two can live side by side – that you can enjoy your life and have empathy with what’s going on in the rest of the world.”

The flipside of building such a huge following means she is now unable to reply to every comment – something she used to pride herself on doing. But she has dialogue – often daily – with people DMing her with their personal problems. “There’s a lot of hats that you take on when you get into social media, and a therapist is definitely one of them. Who knew? People spill their hearts to me and I try to help where I can. I’m not medically trained obviously but if it’s something that seems serious that needs a voice back then I will reply. This is a community which I’ve grown and nurtured so I can’t turn my back on it – people feel like they know me.”

Next on Sutton’s to-do list is kitting out a small extension – “I’m enjoying finding accessories for that,” and creating more footage for her YouTube channel. A thoroughly modern woman, we can expect more playful Reels to brighten up our feeds regularly too. “My daughter or husband captures them for me and they don’t like hanging around for long, so I’ve got them down to a fine art. I see them as little comedy clips,” she laughs.

One big digital love letter to her home, we’ll be sure to tune in.

Hill House Living: The Art of Creating a Joyful Life is out 14 October (Ebury Press, £22) 95

L A S T WO R D

Natalie Imbruglia

MY GLOSSARY

Singer Natalie Imbruglia opens her little black book to the capital, from her favourite florists to the best spot for sundowners A s t o l d t o HARRIET COOPER HOME IS In Oxfordshire. The countryside has provided the perfect creative space for writing my new album.

I used to live in Notting Hill, and it is my favourite place to hang out when I am in London – there’s never a dull moment. It has changed a lot since I first came to the UK in the mid-90s, but I still feel so at home there.

LOUIE

FAVOURITE RESTAURANT Louie in Covent Garden, which opened last September, offers a unique fusion of French, New Orleans and New York on the menu and in the decor. I don’t remember the last time I was this excited about a new restaurant.

The attention to detail is secondto-none and the staff are so much fun. I like to order the lobster roll with fines herbes mayonnaise and Old Bay crisps.

DREAM MEAL The Dover sole at Scott’s in Mayfair is hard to beat, with tarragon butter spring vegetables and mashed potatoes. Fresh oysters for a starter and the salted caramel chocolate fondant for dessert completes my perfect dinner.

FAVOURITE BAR The bar at 45 Jermyn Street, the restaurant at Fortnum & Mason does great cocktails. It’s such a old-school glamourous place to go for drinks. I like a Rickies No.5 – Hepple Gin with strawberry, orange blossom, acid and soda.

45 JERMYN STREET

GO-TO SHOPS I always make sure I visit the Algerian Coffee Stores on Old Compton Street. Their Rainforest Alliance Costa Rica Santa Anita coffee beans are great, so too the turmeric spiced coffee. I stock up at Notting Hill Fish + Meat on Westbourne Grove where the owner Chris D’Sylva always has amazing produce.

FAVOURITE MEMBERS’ CLUB I am a member of Soho House and also Laylow in Notting Hill, which is great for a more intimate experience. Saying that, I did have my birthday there once and hired all the tables on the second floor!

It’s hidden away on a quiet little corner of Golborne Road and is the perfect balance of great design, music and food.

Their Sunday roast is to die for, especially the triple-cooked roast potatoes.

FAVOURITE HOTEL The Berkeley has become my home away from home since I moved to the country. The staff are wonderful – a warm, friendly feel always radiates from the hotel. I also love their creativity, especially the rainbowcoloured Beach Huts where you can dine on seafood platters and ice-cream sandwiches.

FAVOURITE ALFRESCO TERRACE Soho House recently opened 180 House on the eighth and ninth floors of 180 The Strand with a stunning rooftop swimming pool and pictureperfect views across London.

It’s ideal for a business meeting or catching up with friends over a glass of wine.

FAVOURITE PUB When I was living in Notting Hill, I often ended up at The Cow on Westbourne Park Road.

It’s a great neighbourhood pub for a Guinness and a pint of prawns and, even better, people watching.

FAVOURITE GALLERY The Andy Warhol retrospective at Tate Modern last year was incredible. It was the first Warhol exhibition at the gallery in 20 years, so I snapped up

tickets and it did not disappoint.

To see so much of his iconic work all in one space... It was really special.

FAVOURITE MUSIC VENUE Ronnie Scott’s in Soho is a wonderful place to dine and catch live music. I remember a few years back when Jools Holland performed there.

We were all up and dancing by the end of the night.

GO TO FLORIST A Riot of Colour in Clapham is my go to for birthday arrangements and bouquets. All the blooms are hand-picked daily from the flower market, and they never disappoint. I mainly choose whatever is in season, but peonies are my favourite.

THE BERKELEY BEACH HUTS

FAVOURITE FASHION DESIGNERS I love the high-voltage drama and romance of Preen by Thornton Bregazzi’s delicate lace and flower print dresses.

For quiet elegance, you can’t beat Yohji Yamamoto’s tailored trouser suits. Corrie Nielsen is a couture designer whose timeless, ethereal pieces make me feel like a queen.

Francesco Scognamiglio is a dream for any woman to wear, creating clothes that are pure magic.

Toni Matičevski combines a fairytale feeling with BELL HUTLEY cool modernity.

FAVOURITE BOUTIQUES Melissa Odabash in Westbourne Grove is a go-to before any summer holiday. Trying on swimming costumes is not my favourite activity, but the cuts on the costumes are so flattering and the colourful kaftans brighten up any wardrobe. I am also obsessed with Debonnaire in Knightsbridge for unique pieces and one-of-a-kind gifts. My last purchase was a leather jewellery case with my friend’s initials embossed on it.

FAVOURITE INTERIOR BRAND I’m a big fan of illustrator and homeware designer Bell Hutley.

My gold beetle drinks tray is my favourite piece, but her Beetle and Evil Eye placemats come a close second.

KAFTAN BY MELISSA ODABASH

Natalie Imbruglia’s new album Firebird is available from 24 September; natalieimbruglia.com

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI AW21

96

MY GLOSSARY 14.indd 96

09/08/2021 22:50

PARLEY X MIA 08_21.indd 1

05/08/2021 14:44

MESSIKA.COM

MESSIKA_THEGLOSSARY_0321.indd 1 MESSIKA 03_21.indd 1

15/03/2021 16/03/2021 12:11 14:29