The Glossary Autumn 2021

FA S H I O N | B E A U T Y | H E A LT H | W E L L N E S S

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A R T S | C U L T U R E | F O O D | D R I N K | T R AV E L | H O M E S

THE LONDON STYLE GUIDE

MUST-SEE EXHIBITIONS S T Y LE

TR AVE L

NEW HOTELS FO O D & D R I N K

THE HOTTEST RESTAURANTS & BARS

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NEW-GEN SUSTAINABLE FASHION

A modern icon making her own rules

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ARTS & STYLE

ISSUE 15 AUTUMN 2021 £5.00

Yi n k a S h o n i b a r e , A x e l R ü g e r, Ro s e U n i a c ke A l e s s a n d r a S t e i n h e r r, M a y a J a m a FRONT COVER 15_v2.indd 1

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Arts & Culture

6 THE GLOSSARY EDIT

The season’s most joyful finds

9 AGENDA

London’s must-see exhibitions

20 RECLAIMING MAGIC

Yinka Shonibare’s Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy is a joyful affair

24 CYNTHIA ERIVO

The unstoppable multihyphenate on solidarity, diversity and vulnerability

Style

32 FASHION NOTES

Style updates and the season’s feel-good buys

34 THE NEXT-GEN

Flora Macdonald Johnston reveals the London-based fashion designers leading the way in sustainability

34 BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE

A new exhibition focuses on 60s Chelsea in all its kaleidoscopic glory

Watches & Jewellery

40 WATCH & JEWELLERY NOTES

The latest launches and standout pieces to covet

42 TIME FOR A CHANGE

The must-have timepieces, from rainbow brights to iridescent dials

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CONTENTS Autumn 2021

Beauty & Wellness

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48 BEAUTY NOTES

The latest cult products and trends to try

50 THE SKINCARE EDIT

Alessandra Steinherr picks her tried-and-tested favourites from autumn’s launches

52 AUTUMN’S NEW NOTES

Fragrances to spritz all season long

56 LONDON’S FRESH FACE

Innovative, eco-conscious, design-forward...

The capital’s new beauty salons

Food & Drink

60 TASTING NOTES

The need-to-know new restaurants across the capital

62 NEW BEGINNINGS

Hilary Armstrong reviews London’s most talked-about openings

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66 HAPPY HOUR

From Art Deco aesthetics to Cuban-inspired cocktails, drink in the capital’s buzziest new bars

Travel

70 TRAVEL NOTES

New hotels and experiences across the globe

72 POWDER PLAY

With its scenic slopes and high-luxe hotels, St Moritz is the glitziest of Alpine destinations

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76 WATCH THIS SPACE

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The latest arrivals on the London hotel scene

Home & Interiors 82 DESIGN NOTES

Interior design inspiration and ideas

84 ROSE UNIACKE

Take a tour of the interior designer’s exquisite 19th-century Pimlico home

84 WONDER WALLS

Influencer Laura Hunter talks wallpaper

Last Word

96 MY LONDON GLOSSARY

Maya Jama’s little black book of the capital

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Editor’s Letter

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f ever there is a time to celebrate London with our Arts & Style issue, it is now. The capital is alive with creative energy, with new exhibitions, shows and talent, not least the Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy, which, for the second year running, falls in autumn and runs through to winter. Coordinator Yinka Shonibare and RA Chief Executive Axel Rüger share their insight into why this is one of the most inclusive, joyful celebrations of art to date.

Cover star Cynthia Erivo, the multi-hyphenate from Stockwell, perfectly bridges arts and style. Though a superstar in the US and just an ‘O’ away from being a hallowed EGOT (winner of an Emmy, Grammy, Oscar and Tony), the British-Nigerian actress, singer and producer has remained inexplicably under the radar on these shores. She talks to us about the lack of diversity on stage and screen in the UK, the significance of female solidarity and why she’s happy to bare her soul on her new album.

Fashion is also pushing boundaries. Flora Macdonald Johnston gives us the lowdown on the need-to-know London-based designers, all of whom are making waves not just for their directional collections but also their fresh take on sustainability.

From the gender-fluid designs of Harris Reed to Alexandra Sipa’s innovative pieces made from discarded electrical wires, they’re the new-gen names to have on your radar.

Style continues to be a focus as we profile interior designer Rose Uniacke, known for her serene, understated aesthetic, whose new book details the renovation of her extraordinary Pimlico home. From pared back to pattern enthusiast, as Laura Hunter of @nofeaturewalls shows us how to do maximalist wallpapers and chooses her favourites. Plus, as ever, we bring you the lowdown on all the latest openings across town – the hotels, restaurants, bars and beauty salons. Everything you need for the season ahead.

Enjoy the issue.

Charlotte Adsett, Editorial Director

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LEFT TO RIGHT: ASHISH Fringe Mini Dress, £1,495; GUCCI Hair Clip, £345; JENNY PACKHAM Bolero, £1,017 JIL SANDER Bag, £2,030; MESSIKA Earrings, £7,140; GUCCI Lipstick, £35; GUCCI Dress, £2,650 PRADA Sandals, £930; SOLEIL LALIQUE Eau de Parfum, £100

THE GLOSSARY TEAM EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett charlotte@theglossarymagazine.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR: Harriet Cooper harriet@theglossarymagazine.com CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Luciana Bellini luciana@theglossarymagazine.com WATCH & JEWELLERY EDITOR: Ming Liu ming@theglossarymagazine.com BEAUTY DIRECTOR: Alessandra Steinherr RESTAURANT EDITOR: Hilary Armstrong INTERIORS EDITOR: Amy Moorea Wong SUB EDITOR: Samantha de Haas CONTRIBUTORS: Amah-Rose Abrams, Jess Kelham-Hohler, Laura Hunter, Georgie Lane-Godfrey, Flora MacDonald Johnston, Sagal Mohammed, Terrell Mullin ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle ray@theglossarymagazine.com PRODUCTION MANAGER: George Willis production@theglossarymagazine.com FINANCE MANAGER: Amanda Clayton accounts@theglossarymagazine.com SUBSCRIPTIONS: subscriptions@theglossarymagazine.com EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editorial@theglossarymagazine.com Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited, 3rd Floor, 86-90 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NE © 2021 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission.

The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to The Glossary magazine’s right to edit.

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M

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Vintage Vibes

Best In Glass

Oxfam Pop-up at Selfridges Shop more sustainably at Oxfam’s Pop-up space in Selfridges, curated by stylist Bay Garnett and featuring pre-loved picks from Sienna Miller.

Until December at Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, W1 selfridges.com

Lalique Fougères Flacon, £1,000 Lalique’s fern-adorned 2022 limited edition crystal flacon is surely the most spectacular of vessels in which to present the iconic parfum Lalique de Lalique, a soft, floralfruity bouquet with a warm, vanilla finish. lalique.com

Edit The

Lucky Stars

Tasaki 18kt White Gold Diamond Star Ring £5,340 Look to the zodiac with this celestial-inspired ring. farfetch.com

Feel uplifted w ith th i s sea son’s most joyful f i nds Doggy Style

Settle Dog bed, from £124 Handmade in the UK, these dog beds are made from regenerated plastic waste and come with four changeable covers. settlebeds.com

Going For Gold

Creed Millésime Impérial Eau de Parfum, £245 The Parisian perfume house’s unisex fragrance, a woody floral musk, makes the perfect autumnal spritz. creedfragrances.co.uk

Shine On

Lady Dior Bag, £3,900 Princess Diana’s tote of choice gets a high-gloss update this season. dior.com

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Fly The Flag

Holli Union Jack Crystal Bag, £920 Rule Britannia with Rosantica’s crystal-embellished mini bag. brownsfashion.com

Rave New World

4am Rug, from £600 Get your ’90s rave on with this acid house-inspired rug by Henry Holland and Floor Story. floorstory.co.uk

Picture Perfect

Our Own Selves by Nadine Ijewere (Prestel), £39.99 A visual feast charting the career of photographer Nadine Ijewere, the first Black woman to shoot the Vogue cover of Vogue. prestel.com

Happy Feet

Christian Louboutin Sandals, £1,450 Let your feet do the talking this party season. christianlouboutin.com

Nailed It

Hermès, £33 Make nails pop with Hermès’s new polishes, which only need one coat and come in 24 shades, including the house’s signature hue Orange Boîte. hermes.com

Make A Date

Acqua di Parma x Emilio Pucci Advent Calendar, £450 This sumptuous holiday collaboration, in aid of Save the Children, makes for a joyous countdown to the festivities. acquadiparma.com

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A new hub for galleries in the heart of Mayfair, London Hosting pop-up exhibitions, events, performances and more

FRIEZE NO.9 CORK STREET

Free to visit and open all year round Explore in person at No.9 Cork Street and online on Frieze Viewing Room FRIEZE.COM/9CORKSTREET

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Annie Morris, 2021. Photo © Stephen White & Co.

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ANNIE MORRIS T I M O T H Y TAY L O R

Until 13 November This exhibition presents a new selection of Annie Morris‘s gravity-defying Stack sculptures, their precariously balanced, vibrant orbs at once conveying the fragility and uncertainty of human life paralleled with strength, renewal and lightness. Alongside these towering pieces is a rich, jewel-toned display of drawings and tapestries by the London-based artist. timothytaylor.com

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B y

H A R R I E T

Lubaina Himid Man in a Shirt Drawer 2017-8 Tate © Lubaina Himid

W H A T ’S O N & W H E R E

C O O P E R

LUBAINA HIMID TAT E M O D E R N

25 November – 3 July 2022

William Hogarth Miss Mary Edwards, 1742 The Frick Collection, New York, Photography: Joe Coscia Jr.

The Lovers II by Zineb Sedira © DACS Zineb Sedira. Courtesy of the artist and Kamel Mennour, Paris, London

Lubaina Himid has been pivotal in contemporary art for over four decades, from her central role in the British Black arts movement of the 1980s to winning the Turner Prize in 2017. This is her largest solo show, combining new works with highlights from her considerable career, including her highly regarded figurative paintings. The standout, however, has to be Blue Grid Test (2020), a 25-metre painting coupled with instrumental music and Himid’s voice. tate.org.uk

Climate Crisis

WE ARE HISTORY 16 October – 6 February 2022

SOMERSET HOUSE Curated by writer Ekow Eshun, this group exhibition presents a different view of humankind’s impact on the planet by looking at the correlation between today’s environmental crisis and the legacies of colonialism. Spotlighting the works of eleven artists with ties to the Caribbean, South America and Africa, the collection of photography, prints, textile and installation brings the cultural practices and perspectives of indigenous peoples to the fore, expanding the common narrative around climate change.

somersethouse.org.uk

Hogarth & Europe TAT E B R I TA I N

3 November 2021 – 20 March 2022 William Hogarth is best known for his satirical paintings and engravings, which gave a glimpse into 18th century England and its moral compass. This exhibition presents Hogarth’s work in a new light, contextualising it alongside the oeuvre of his European contemporaries to explore the cosmopolitan character of his art. tate.org.uk

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BARBICAN ART GALLERY 30 September – 9 January 2022 “Sculpture can be a vital force in our everyday life if projected into communal usefulness.” So said Isamu Noguchi, one of the 20th century’s most experimental sculptors. This retrospective retraces the Japanese-American artist’s six-decade career, with an extraordinary display of his sculptures, set designs, architectural and playground models, lighting and furniture design, as well as archive materials and photographs, which give a rare insight into this remarkable man. barbican.org.uk

This Autumn sees the launch of Frieze’s No.9 Cork Street initiative, a flexible exhibition space for visiting galleries.

Set across two repurposed townhouses in Mayfair, it will host an ambitious year-round programme that kicks off with a Christopher Myers solo show presented by New York-based gallery James Cohan and a joint exhibition by mother-daughter duo Elisabeth Wild and Vivian Suter from Guatemala gallery Proyectos Ultravioleta. In November, exhibiting galleries include Reykjavík’s i8 Gallery and Dittrich & Schlechtriem in Berlin.

No.9 Cork Street, Mayfair W1 frieze.com

Nikita Gale, RUINER VIII, 2021. Photo: Joerg Lohse

NOGUCHI

NO.9 CORK STREET Elisabeth Wild, Wild Spoerri Rosenstein, 2019 © Academy of Fine Arts Vienna.. Photo: Joanna Pianka

From top to bottom: Isamu Noguchi in his 10th Street, Long Island City, Queens Studio, 1964 ©2021 The Estate of Dan Budnik; Martha Graham with Spider Dress and Serpent for Martha Graham's "Cave of the Heart", 1946. Photograph by Cris Alexander; Isamu Noguchi, My Arizona (second state with original elements), 1943; Isamu Noguchi, Sunken Garden for Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library, 1960-1964. All Rights Reserved / INFGM / ARS - DACS

Portrait of Christopher Myers, courtesy the artist and James Cohan

A R T S & C U LT U R E

LATE CONSTABLE

R OYA L AC A D E M Y OF ARTS

30 October – 13 February We all know him for his bucolic landscapes, but this show presents a different side to John Constable. Spanning from 1825 until his untimely death in 1837, the retrospective (the first to ever take place at the Royal Academy despite Constable being a graduate of the RA Schools) dives into the artist’s late style, highlighting the free and expressive brushwork that defines it. royalacademy.org.uk John Constable, The Leaping Horse, 1825. Royal Academy of Arts, London Photo © Royal Academy of Arts, London; Photography: Prudence Cuming Associates Limited

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Clockwise from top left: Bell-krater wine-vessel depicting an aulos player, made in Athens, 430-420 BCE, by an anonymous artist known as the Kadmos Painter. © Benaki Museum, Athens; Fish plate, about 370-300 BCE, depicting marine diversity. © Kunstsammlungen Antike der Ruhr-Universität Bochum; Byzantine sundial-calendar, 400-600 CE, featuring a list of latitudes for use in 16 different locations © Science Museum Group; Gold headdress, (about 350-100 BCE) adorned with an image of Athena, Goddess of Wisdom © Benaki Museum, Athens; Amphora made in Athens, about 520-510 BCE, attributed to an anonymous artist in the Circle of the Lysippides Painter. © ReissEngelhorn-Museen, Mannheim.

Ancient Greeks Science & Wisdom SCIENCE MUSEUM 17 November – 5 June 2022

ANICKA YI

H Y UNDA I COM M ISSION TAT E M O D E R N 12 October – 16 January 2022 The annual Hyundai Commission returns to the Turbine Hall with a major new work from Anicka Yi, In Love With The World, her most ambitious to date. The conceptual artist has created her own vision of a new kind of ecosystem, with floating machines, called aerobes, moving through the air to prompt viewers to consider how machines might inhabit the world. tate.org.uk

Clockwise from top left: Anicka Yi Lifestyle Wars, 2017 (detail); Biologizing The Machine (tentacular trouble), 2019; Anicka Yi, Installation View: We Have Never Been Individual at Gladstone Gallery, Brussels, 2019; Portrait of Anicka Yi by David Heald

Liberal, forward-thinking and curious, the Ancient Greeks are credited with building the foundation upon which all western cultures are built. This gripping exhibition takes visitors back through the millennia - with sculptures, musical instruments and artworks on display together in the UK for the first time - to discover how this ancient civilisation questioned, contemplated and debated the natural world. sciencemuseum.org.uk

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

AMAZONIA SCIENCE MUSEUM 13 October – March 2022

Clockwise from top right: Chaman Yanomami en rituel avant la montée vers le Pico da Neblina, État d'Amazonas, Brésil, 2014 © Sebastião Salgado/nbpictures; Archipel fluvial de Mariuá, Rio Negro, État d'Amazonas Brésil, 2019 © Sebastião Salgado/nbpictures; Mont Roraima, État d'Roraima, Brésil, 2018 © Sebastião Salgado/nbpictures

Sebastião Salgado is one of today’s most celebrated social documentary photographers and photojournalists. This exhibition brings together the culmination of six years' work, during which time Salgado documented 12 different indigenous communities in the Brazilian rainforest. The result is over 200 powerful black-and-white images, including stunning portraits, dramatic landscapes and sweeping aerial shots, all of which highlight the fragility of the Amazon and those who live in it. sciencemuseum.org.uk

CABARET K I T K AT C L U B

Photography: Joel Palmer

From 15 November Berlin’s infamous Kit Kat Club takes up residence at the Playhouse Theatre to host a production of one of the most successful musicals of all time, Cabaret. An inthe-round auditorium will set the stage for electrifying performances from the likes of Eddie Redmayne, who plays The Emcee, and Jessie Buckley as Sally Bowles.

Guests will also receive a club entry time to allow them the opportunity to soak up the glamour and glitz of the Kit Kat Club world before the real show starts. theplayhousetheatre.co.uk

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Sarah Lucas, Self Portrait with Fried Eggs, 1996. Credit © Sarah Lucas, courtesy Sadie Coles HQ London

Beano The Art of Breaking the Rules at Somerset House

BEANO : THE ART OF BREAKING THE RULES SOMERSET HOUSE 21 October – 6 March 2022

Take a trip into Beanotown at this exhibition about the world’s longest running comic and its raft of well-loved characters including Dennis and Gnasher, Minnie the Minx and the Bash Street Kids. Alongside original artwork and artifacts celebrating their spirit of rebellion, curator Andy Holden has gathered together works by other creative rule-breakers – Sarah Lucas, Martin Creed, Phyllida Barlow to name a few. somersethouse.org.uk Basket of �lowers egg, Fabergé.

Silver, parcel-gilt, gold, enamel, diamonds, 1901. Royal Collection Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2021

Imperial presentation box by Fabergé, nephrite, coloured gold, diamonds, ivory. Chief Workmaster: Henrik Wigström, St. Petersburg, 1904.

Private collection, images courtesy of Wartski, London

The Moscow Kremlin Egg, Fabergé. Gold, silver, onyx, glass, enamel, oil painting, 1906 © The Moscow Kremlin Museums

Fabergé in London Romance to Revolution V I CTO R I A & A L B E RT M U S E U M 20 November – 8 May 2022 This glittering exhibition shines a light on the Russian goldsmith and jeweller Carl Fabergé, focusing on his success in Britain and the importance of his London branch, the only one outside of Russia. Over 200 objects – including three of his legendary Imperial Easter eggs, seen in the UK for the first time – tell the story of the man and artist and how his designs inspire, captivate and delight to this day.

vam.ac.uk

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

DÜR ER’S JOUR NEYS T H E N AT I O N A L GA L L E R Y 20 November – 27 February 2022

Left to right: Master of the Bruges Passion Scenes: Christ presented to the People, about 1510, © The National Gallery, London; Jan Gossaert (Jean Gossart) The Adoration of the Kings, 1510–15, © The National Gallery, London; Juan de Flandes, Christ appearing to the Virgin with the Redeemed of the Old Testament, about 1499–1500, © The National Gallery, London

Dürer’s Journeys: Travels of a Renaissance Artist collates paintings, drawings, prints and letters from museums and private collections – including Madonna and Child (c.1496/1499) – never before seen in this country. They all bring to life Albrecht Dürer’s extensive travels across Europe, taking the viewer on their own journey to better understand how these trips fuelled the German artist’s curiosity and creativity, as well as increasing his fame and influence.

nationalgallery.org.uk

JAMEEL PRIZE

POETRY TO POLITICS V I CTO R I A & A L B E RT MUSEUM Until 28 November

Founded by the V V&A in 2009, in collaboration with Art Jameel, the Jameel Prize is the leading award for contemporary art and design inspired

by Islamic tradition. This iteration is the first with a thematic focus contemporary design - showcasing the work of eight hugely talented finalists from India, Iran, Lebanon, Pakistan, Saudi Arabia, the UAE and the UK. vam.ac.uk T H E G L O S S A R Y M A G A Z I N E .C O M / A R T S - C U LT U R E

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Clockwise from top left: Samosa Packet on the culture of dissent and protest in India. Designed and made by So�ia Karim using photographs by Harsha Vadlamani from his ‘Chalo Dilli’ series. Part of So�ia Karim’s Turbine Bagh project, 2019-ongoing.

Photograph: So�ia Karim; Samosa packets calling for the release of Rohingya photographer Abul Kalam. Designed and made by So�ia Karim using photographs by Abul Kalam. Part of So�ia Karim’s Turbine Bagh project, 2019-ongoing. Photograph: So�ia Karim; Kallol Datta, Karate Gi, Volume 1 Issue 2, 2018. Photograph: Keegan Crasto; Hadeyeh Badri, Prayer is my Mail (detail), installation of work at the Sullivan Galleries for the SAIC MFA show, 2019. Photograph: Alex Younger.

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HEATHER PHILLIPSON TAT E B R I TA I N Until 23 January 2022

The End artist's collage proposal for the Fourth Plinth, Trafalgar Square, 2016 image courtesy the artist; Tate Britain Commission: Heather Phillipson: Rupture No.1: blowtorching the bitten peach © Tate photography (Oliver Cowling); The Age of Love installation view at BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art, Gateshead, 2018, image courtesy the artist and Jonty Wilde

Heather Phillipson brings Tate Britain’s central galleries ever more alive with her immersive installation Rupture No 1: Blowtorching the Bitten Peach. Described by the artist as a “pre-post-historic environment”, the work is an attempt to “cultivate strangeness, and its potential to generate ecstatic experience”. Visitors will marvel at her kaleidoscopic combination of imagery, materials and media including salvaged machines and huge papier-mâché sculptures layered with digital video, sound and lights. tate.org.uk

MIXING IT UP:

PAINTING TODAY H AY WA R D GA L L E R Y Until 12 December Mixing It Up: Painting Today brings together 31 contemporary painters – across three generations – all tasked with exploring painting as a medium to create fresh works of art that tap into the zeitgeist. The result is a compelling show that challenges conventionality and our own conceptions of gender, race and identity. southbankcentre.co.uk

Clockwise from top left: Allison Katz, Adult Services, 2019, © Allison Katz (2021). Courtesy the artist and The Approach, London; Rachel Jones, lick your teeth, they so clutch, 2021, © Rachel Jones (2021). Courtesy Thaddaeus Ropac. Photo: Eva Herzogl; Lubaina Himid, The Captain and The Mate, 2017-2018, © Lubaina Himid (2021).

Courtesy the artist and Hollybush Gardens, London. Photo: Andy Keate; Kudzanai-Violet Hwami, Bira, 2019, © Kudzanai-Violet Hwami.

Courtesy the artist and Victoria Miro; Lisa Brice, Smoke and Mirrors, 2020, © Lisa Brice (2021). Courtesy the artist;Stephen Friedman Gallery, London and Salon 94, New York.

Photo: Mark Blower.

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Hélène Binet, Zaha Hadid Architects, MAXXI - Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo, Rome, Italy, 2009. Courtesy ammann // projects. © Hélène Binet

Hélène Binet, Atelier Peter Zumthor, Bruder Klaus Field Chapel, Wachendorf, Germany, 2009.

Courtesy ammann // projects. © Hélène Binet

Hélène Binet

R OYA L AC A D E M Y 23 October – 23 January 2022

Under the Wave off Kanagawa (‘The Great Wave’) From the series Thirtysix Views of Mt. Fuji (1831) by Katsushika Hokusai (1760–1849). Colour woodblock print. © The Trustees of the British Museum

Swiss-French architectural photographer Hélène Binet has captured the world’s greatest historic and contemporary buildings by some of the most celebrated names in architecture including Le Corbusier, Gottfried Böhm and Peter Zumthor. Light Lines: The Architectural Photographs of Hélène Binet brings together 90 of her photographs, spanning myriad projects across a formidable career, with a section focusing on Binet’s work with Zaha Hadid, with whom she had a close working relationship for many years. royalacademy.org.uk

Hélène Binet, Zaha Hadid Architects, Riverside Museum of Transport, Glasgow, United Kingdom, 2010. Courtesy ammann // projects. © Hélène Binet

Hok usai

THE BRITISH MUSEUM

30 September – 30 January 2022

Over 100 rare drawings by celebrated Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai – completed for an illustrated encyclopedia called The Great Picture Book of Everything – will go on display for the first time, giving an insight into the final years of Hokusai’s career as well as an intriguing glimpse into 19th-century Japan. britishmuseum.org

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WASTE AGE

THE DESIGN MUSEUM 23 October – 20 February 2022

LONDON PORT CITY:

Clockwise from top left: S-1500 chair, designed by Snøhetta for Nordic Comfort Products made from discarded �ishing nets. Image by Bjørnar Ovrebo; Oxford Tire Pile , Westley, California, USA, 1999. Image by Edward Burtynsky, courtesy Flowers Gallery, London / Nicholas Metivier Gallery, Toronto; A discarded bale of jeans, waiting to be recycled into Circulose — a new material made by recovering cotton from worn-out clothes for new garments. Image by Alexander Donka/Renewcell; Stella McCartney SU19 ECONYL® Jacket and Trousers made using regenerated nylon from �ishing nets and factory waste; Lovely Trash Column by Blast studio — a 3D printed column made from mycelium fed and grown on coffee cup waste. Image by Blast.

Waste Age shows how new design ideas are redefining our throwaway culture and helping us rethink our relationship to everyday things. Eye-opening and devastating in its depiction of the scale and impact of waste, it also focuses on the visionary designers working towards a cleaner future, from Formafantasma to Stella McCartney. designmuseum.org

Shilpa Gupta I Live Under Your Sky Too, 2017 Animated light installation 975 x 487 cm Courtesy: The Artist

MUSEUM OF LONDON DOCKLANDS

Shilpa Gupta For, In Your Tongue, I Cannot Fit, 2017–18 18 Sound installation with 100 speakers, microphones, printed text and metal. Comissioned by YARAT Contemporary Art Space and Edinburgh Art Festival.

Photographer: Pat Verbruggen

22 October – 8 May 2022 This new exhibition brings to life 200 years of activity on the River Thames, exploring how the city has been shaped by its maritime trade, and how its docks have been the capital’s lifeblood from the 18th century to the creation of the modern behemoth that is London Gateway – the city’s mega port. museumoflondon.org.uk

SHILPA GUPTA

THE CURVE, BARBICAN CENTRE 7 October – 6 February 2022

© PLA collection Museum of London

In this, her inaugural major London solo show, Mumbai-based multi-disciplinary artist Shilpa Gupta will present a reconfiguration of her acclaimed project For, In Your Tongue, I Cannot Fit (2017-2018), a powerful immersive installation of 100 microphones suspended above 100 spikes piercing sheets of text, which addresses questions around censorship and resistance. barbican.org.uk

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Portrait of Kudzanai-Violet Hwami, 2019. Photo © Jo Metson Scott

KUDZANAI-VIOLET HWAMI

WHEN YOU NEED LETTERS FOR YOUR SKIN VICTORIA MIRO

Until 6 November

Yoko Ono Mend Piece 1966/2018. Broken cups and saucers, thread, glue, tape Installation view: ‘You & I’, A4 Arts Foundation, Cape Town, South Africa, 2018. Image courtesy the artist / photo: Kyle Morland

Kudzanai-Violet Hwami Expiation, 2021 © Kudzanai-Violet Hwami. Courtesy the artist and Victoria Miro

Kudzanai-Violet Hwami’s solo exhibition, her first with Victoria Miro, presents a body of new work by the Zimbabwe-born, UK-based artist. Hwami explores themes of identity, displacement and the diaspora through her vividly coloured, largescale paintings, including powerful yet intimate nudes, which she often layers with visual fragments such as archival images and personal photographs to create new narratives and, in this case, raise questions about human experience in relation to spirituality. victoria-miro.com

Benjamin Spiers S A ATC H I YAT E S Until 20 October This is a solo exhibition of new paintings by Benjamin Spiers, who is known for his bold canvases of subjects that are at once outlandish, mysterious and grotesque, with deranged eyes and twisted limbs, inviting the viewer into a fantastical world. The British artist studied at Goldsmiths in London under the tutelage of seminal contemporary figurative painter Peter Doig, whose work had a founding influence on Spiers. saatchiyates.com

YOKO ONO

MEND PIECE FOR LONDON WHITECHAPEL GALLERY Until 2 January 2022 Artist and activist Yoko Ono’s interactive installation draws on kintsugi (the Japanese art of mending broken pottery), with visitors invited to repair simple materials presented on a plain white table, as “a timely metaphor for a different kind of mending which takes place in the mind and through community”. whitechapelgallery.org

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LEFT: Yinka Shonibare RA in 2017 Summer Exhibition © David Parry. BELOW: Yinka Shonibare, Mayflower, All Flowers. Courtesy the artist and Cristea Roberts Gallery, London © Yinka Shonibare

Exhibition Review

Reclaiming Magic

Raúl de Nieves, I woke up from a dream that gave me wings.

Courtesy of the artist

Yinka Shonibare’s Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy focuses on diversity and inclusivity, resulting in a show that feels more uplifting and unified than ever W o r d s A M A H - ROS E A B R A M S

W

alking through the forecourt of the Royal Academy, I am struck by a bright-orange, patterned sash draped over the shoulder of its founding president Sir Joshua Reynolds. Is this a nod to the statue debate? Certainly it catches the attention at the entrance of this year’s Summer Exhibition, which, for the second year running, has been deferred to the autumn.

Coordinated by Royal Academician Yinka Shonibare, the show is based around the theme ‘Reclaiming Magic’, with a remit of increased diversity across the board.

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A R T S & C U LT U R E “First of all it’s about artists actually being able to work viscerally and from their own instinct. It’s important not to inhibit the creative process.

The second part is the general perception of magic, or ideas around magic, which are perceived as being foreign to Western ideas and Western enlightenment culture. The term has connotations of dubiousness, unseriousness, of child’s play and the occult,” says Shonibare, laying out his vision for the Summer Exhibition in a statement for the RA. “This exhibition seeks a return to the visceral aspects and the sheer joy of art making. It will celebrate the transformative powers of the magical in art and transcend the Western canon which formed the foundations of the Royal Academy, seeking to restore value to marginalised practices as equally valid forms of enlightenment.”

TOP: The Royal Academy's Chief Executive Axel Rüger.

RIGHT: Chantel Joffe, Claire and Nelia. Courtesy of the artist and Victoria Miro, London / Venice, London.

BELOW LEFT TO RIGHT: Rose Wylie, Pineapple, Courtesy of the artist; Mali Morris, Colour Go Round (7). Courtesy of the artist

The Summer Exhibition is the world’s largest open submission contemporary art show. Shonibare and a committee of fellow Academicians had the task of whittling down this year’s 15,000 submissions; 1,389 works are on display, including pieces by Royal Academicians, Honorary Academicians and Invited Artists, with each committee member responsible for curating a particular gallery space. A commercial exhibition, pieces are priced from £50 upwards, meaning that most people attending could potentially take home one of the works.

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“This exhibition seeks to transcend a Western art history perspective to focus on the transformative powers of the magical in art, and a return to the visceral, joyful aspects of art-making"

In something of this scale, diversity should surely be achievable, but as the art world goes through a period of adjustment when it comes to representation, when an institution or figure claims diversity, it is certain to come under scrutiny.

“Yinka really wanted to look at the aspects of making art beyond the Western canon and our Western traditions,” explains Axel Rüger, Secretary and Chief Executive of the Royal Academy of Shonibare’s approach. “He's Nigerian-British and so he particularly focused on artists from Africa, from the African diaspora Afrofuturism, but also artists with disabilities, with learning difficulties, and other sorts of challenging circumstances who otherwise might not have that much access to the established art world.”

The result is a show that, despite its size and the fact it includes work by untrained artists alongside those who can regularly command hundreds of thousands of pounds for their pieces, feels more unified than usual. The first room, curated by Shonibare, sets the tone with the inclusion of a series of works by a late artist who was born as a slave and didn’t start painting until he was 85. Bill Traylor’s simple, surreal figures are given their own red-wall setting, and are the first thing you see on entering, stopping me in my tracks.

“The touchstone of the exhibition is the work by Bill Traylor,” says Rüger.

“Which is sort of an anomaly for us, because normally we only show artists who are alive and whose work is no less than five years old, and that does not apply to Traylor, but for Yinka it was really essential and the springboard or inspiration for the show.”

Other artists on display range from Grayson Perry, Chantal Joffe and Ellen Gallagher to rising stars like Ghanaian artist Amoako Boafo, famous for his glorious portraits, and Kinshasa-based Eddy Kamuanga Ilunga, who maps out the skin of his subjects like circuit boards, referencing the horrific trade in precious minerals used to make mobile phones in the Congo.

True to its intentions, the show is diverse not only in terms of race and nationality but also in terms of training, accessibility and neurodiversity with a wide range of styles, media and subject matter on display. You see a visceral Anselm Kiefer, for example, alongside a pineapple by Rose Wylie. Personal favourites include the surreal Afrofuturist photography of Alexis Peskine in Aljana Moons II, and the huge, humorous painting that relocates part of east London to the South of France, Bethnal Green And Mont Blanc by Jock McFadyen RA. Shonibare wanted to give a platform to those who aren’t usually seen in an institution like the Royal Academy, and in doing so raise the bar at which they are appreciated by both the art world and the public. And so, you see self-taught artist Johnson Weree’s series of drawn faces included, with their curved lines and enticing palette, and several emotive fabric sculptures and wall works by ‘outsider artist’ Marie-Rose Lortet.

There is an explosion of colour in the space curated by artist Eva Rothschild, which is filled with every interpretation of sculpture

LEFT: Grayson Perry, Chris Whitty's Cat. © Grayson Perry. Courtesy the artist and Victoria Miro.

ABOVE RIGHT: Lola Flash, Divinity.

Courtesy of the Artist

and painting, from a figure standing proud at the entrance by Shonibare to felt artist Lucy Sparrow’s brightly hued condiments.

The overall sense throughout this year’s Summer Exhibition is one of joy and inspiration, not just in the curation but also in the fact that it heralds hope and a sense of slowly returning to normality. We never know what the future will hold but a wide ranging, diverse show for our post-pandemic London feels as good as it looks.

The Summer Exhibition runs until 2 January 2022; royalacademy.org.uk

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: Eddy Kamuanga, Oubliez le passé et vous perdez les deux yeux.

Courtesy of the artist; Whit�ield Lovell, Kin XLVII (Rimshot). Courtesy of the artist; Jim Dine, Helen at Dalton. Courtesy the artist and Cristea Roberts Gallery, London; Frantz Lamothe, Wow. Courtesy the Artist and October Gallery, London; Soly Cissé, Men and Lives I . © Soly Cissé, courtesy of Sulger-Buel Gallery; Amoako Boafo, Fatou, Photo: Matt Humphrey. Courtesy of the artist; Marie-Rose Lortet, En tournant la tête, Photo © Clovis Prévost. Courtesy Marie Finaz Gallery.

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Interview

The Unstoppable

CYNTHIA ERIVO Stockwell-born multi-hyphenate Cynthia Erivo has conquered Hollywood – and now she’s releasing her debut album. Here, she talks female solidarity, diversity in film, and why she’s not afraid to show her vulnerable side W o r d s SAGA L M O H A M M E D P h o t o g r a p h y TERRELL MULLIN

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lready dubbed “entertainment’s top overachiever”, Cynthia Erivo’s road to the top has been impressive to say the least. In 2015, the multihyphenate Londoner took Broadway by storm with her stellar stint as Celie in the musical of The Color Purple – a performance that won her a Tony Award. In 2020, she earned an Academy Award nomination for playing American abolitionist Harriet Tubman in the biopic Harriet, a trophy that would have complemented her existing Tony, Emmy and Grammy gongs, and seen her join the hallowed EGOT elite – all by the age of 33.

She may not have walked away with an Academy Award that year, but Erivo stole the show with her powerful performance of the original song she co-wrote for the film, Stand Up (for which she also received an Oscar nomination). Music has remained integral to Erivo’s work and she recently played her idol Aretha Franklin in Genius: Aretha, a National Geographic series chronicling the life of the Queen of Soul; a role for which she has been widely lauded, and for which she received another Emmy nomination.

All this and yet, despite such phenomenal success Stateside, Erivo has remained inexplicably under the radar on these shores. Though this looks set to change with a raft of new projects, including the launch of her debut solo album Ch. 1 Vs. 1, a 12-track blend of classic soul, powerful pop hooks and R&B melodies electrified by her mighty vocals.

“I’d wanted to do an album for a while, I just hadn’t been given the chance to do so until now,” she tells me, calling from New York City, where she is currently on a promotional tour. “Now felt like a good time, just because of all the things that I've experienced so far.”

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Born and raised in Stockwell, south London, Erivo grew up with her mother Edith – a nurse who came to Britain from Nigeria at the age of 24 – and her younger sister Stephanie, both of whom she shares a tight-knit bond with. It’s widely chronicled that Erivo’s mother had a sixth sense that her daughter would become an actress and a singer, recording it in Erivo’s baby book when she was just 18 months old. Indeed, after attending La Retraite Roman Catholic Girls’ School, her eldest daughter dropped out of a music psychology degree at the University of East London to train at RADA. When she was 16, Erivo and her sister were disowned by their father, who told them he wanted nothing more to do with them as they stood in the middle of a London tube station. The last time she saw him was a decade ago at a cousin’s wedding.

She details their non-existent relationship on the album’s track You’re Not Here, a ballad she wrote to help her move on from the pain of his abandonment.

“This is me admitting that there are things that he’s missed and I'm sad that he’s missed them,” she has since said of the song. “And there are things that he’s going to miss and I'm sad that he’s going to miss them. There is a part of me that wishes I could have my dad in my life. But there's also a part of me that's actually very comfortable because I've written this, knowing that he's not going to be a part of my life at all.”

“Being vulnerable is how I function,” she admits, when I ask how comfortable she felt sharing such a personal story with the world. “I don't know if I could have written anything that wasn't honest. I want people to know that it is OK to talk about those things. I want them to find solace and comfort in my music. The goal has only ever been to be truthful.”

Apropos living your truth, while Erivo has never felt a need to ‘come out’ as such, she identifies as Queer – a part of her identity that is illustrated beautifully in the visuals for her lead single, The

Good. It tells the story of two young Black women’s romantic relationship, replacing fetishisation and stereotypes about what this type of love looks like, with its true, tender reality. The story isn’t necessarily autobiographical, according to Erivo, but it’s a moving ode to the Black Queer visibility we so often lack in mainstream spaces.

Another gap Erivo is filling is the display of sisterly solidarity in show business. “Sisterhood is extremely important, and I don't know that we get to see it in this industry that often,” says Erivo. Last month, a moment between her and fellow British megastar Michaela Coel went viral on social media. It was a clip from the 2021 Emmys, where Erivo showed

She hopes that public displays of genuine empowerment between women will set a new precedent for generations to come. “It’s crucial to let other artists know that just being there for each other in this business is possible without feeling like you’re in competition.”

Both Erivo and Coel are among a long list of Black British actors who have found success in the US after years of dead-end auditions and minimal opportunities in the UK. It’s no secret that the British film and TV industries fall far behind their counterparts across the pond when it comes to inclusive storytelling and representation for people of colour. It’s an issue that prompted Erivo’s move to the States in 2015, and she currently lives in Los Angeles.

“Things have gotten better in the UK but we’re still very behind. I think those two things can be true at the same time,” she explains. “We’re still not in a place where we’re giving substantial roles to Black actors or Black performers in the UK, and the roles we are offered auditions for are never the lead or the centre, they’re not even number two unfortunately.

Yet still, we’re having to work significantly harder to even get those. Ultimately, you go where the work is and where your craft is appreciated and unfortunately the UK fails on that front.”

Her points are valid and made abundantly clear by the influx of Black British actors who have shared similar experiences of being undervalued in their own country. So, how does this change? “It’s tough,” Erivo admits.

“It starts with casting and programming.

It’s about finding stories that are multicultural and can allow different people to play the roles.”

While diversity within the film and TV industry in the UK may be lacking, Erivo has been busy snapping up some of the biggest gigs in Hollywood. “When choosing roles, I look for people I’ve never met before. I’m always searching for a person that I’m interested in because if they intrigue me in some way,

“It’s crucial to let other artists know that just being there for each other in this business is possible without feeling like you’re in competition" up for her long-term friend (the two starred in Coel’s 2015 drama Chewing Gum together, which was one of Erivo’s first roles on TV) by acting as a crutch for her through the joyous yet overwhelming moment she made history as the first Black woman to win the Writing for a Limited Series category for her critically acclaimed drama I May Destroy You. “I was so happy for her,” Erivo recalls. “As women, we’re encouraged to do the opposite of supporting each other and I simply refuse. I don't believe that it's necessary for us to feel threatened by one another. The most important thing that women can do for each other is be there for each other, create space for each other, and celebrate one another. That’s how we become stronger and how we gain the things we want to gain.”

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I want to get to know them.

I'm often trying to look for women and faces that we just haven’t seen before that are in grey areas or have complicated lives and personalities. That’s my criteria.”

“I’m proud of all the roles I’ve played because they take a lot of work,” she continues. “Playing Harriet was physically and mentally challenging, and Aretha was vocally challenging, just learning the music and all of her nuances. I was consistently studying her.”

Though the idea of Aretha Franklin herself being a fan of her work (the two met when the late legend once came to see Erivo on Broadway) was always a comfort. “All of my roles have pulled out different parts of me, which I love – that’s really what I look for in my jobs.”

It should perhaps come as no surprise that Erivo is equally as venturous in her sartorial leanings.

The diminutive star (she’s 5ft 1) and her stylist Jason Bolden are red carpet risk takers, serving the kind of idiosyncratic looks that have yet to be missed off a Best Dressed list, with designers falling over themselves to dress her. There was the fluorescent green Valentino couture at this year’s Golden Globes, and the stunning hand-cut macramé lace Vera Wang gown at the Critics’ Choice Awards, not to mention the futuristic metallic Louis Vuitton number for the Grammys, and the white custom Versace gown at the Oscars – all of which have been complemented by Erivo’s trademark septum piercing, gorgeously stacked earrings and signature buzzcut. “Erivo is a fashion girl through and through.

I show up, and she’s already in a full

express the beauty in the stories and people who are often overlooked and underrepresented” – and has a number of projects in the pipeline.

She’s also counting down the days until the release of another debut venture: a children’s book entitled Remember to Dream, Ebere, based on a mother, her daughter and their shared dreams. “It’s out on the 14 October and I’m so excited,” Erivo shares. Not to mention she’s playing the Blue Fairy in Disney’s upcoming liveaction remake of Pinocchio, starring in Netflix’s Luther spin-off movie alongside Idris Elba, while squeezing in a top-secret TV series she’s working on.

The term ‘hard-working’ suddenly feels like an inadequate adjective to describe Erivo. In fact, it doesn’t even come close.

“I love my life,” she tells me, just before rushing off to her next meeting. “I love what I have managed to build for myself because it’s not just things, but I have filled it with people that I love deeply.”

Does she ever miss London? “I miss the people. My mum and my sister are, of course, very proud and my best friend travels with me a lot too.

He was just with me in Venice,” she adds, though moving back home is not on the agenda any time soon. “It’s been a real whirlwind for me here and I’m just going with it until it stops making me happy. But right now, I’m really happy and I’m open to whatever the possibilities may be.”

“I love what I have managed to build for myself because it’s not just things, but I have filled it with people that I love deeply" look,” Bolden has said of his client.

With a debut album ticked off her todo list, and a string of award-winning roles already under her belt, what could possibly be next for Erivo? The short answer is: a lot. Last year she set up her own production company Edith’s Daughter – “to focus on projects that

Cynthia Erivo’s debut album Ch. 1 Vs. 1 is out now on Verve Records

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STYLE JOYFUL JEWELS After the resounding success of their first collaboration, Kate Moss and Parisian jewellery brand Messika return with their second high jewellery collection, inspired by gems the supermodel has collected during her travels around the world.

Launching in early October, the 36-piece range comprises bold designs that incorporate marbled malachite, shimmering mother-ofpearl and vibrant turquoise.

Messika by Kate Moss 18kt Rose Gold, Diamond and Turquoise ‘Colour Play’ Necklace and Ring, both POA; messika.com

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Fashion Notes

The renaissance of the biker boot, a twist on the clutch and Gucci celebrates its centenary C o m p i l e d b y C H A R LOT T E A DS E T T

BAG CH ECK

The clutch gets a chic new makeover with the arrival of the Fendi First. Designed by creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi, the bag comes in a variety of finishes from nappa leather to sheepskin, topped with an instantly recognisable oversized F-shaped metal clasp.

fendi.com

R I NG CA N DY

Milanese jewellery designer Bea Bongiasca is the name to know right now for her colourful, playfully-shaped creations, which fuse pop culture and contemporary art. Her Baby Vine Tendril ring, cast from 9K gold and silver, painted with bright enamel and set with a single marquise-cut gemstone, takes its inspiration from intertwining climbing plants.

£395; koibird.com

Back To Nature

WILD LIFE Creative director Sarah Burton draws on the healing power of anemone flowers for her latest collection for Alexander McQueen. Dramatic silhouettes come in the form of otherworldly ballgowns blooming with abstract floral prints for maximum romanticism-meets-grunge impact. alexandermcqueen.com

SOLE TR ADER

The chunky biker boot is the fashion girl footwear of choice this season, and Simone Rocha’s stomping platforms are adorned with an unexpected pearl embellishment, tempering the toughness and adding a twist to the gothic punk vibe. simonerocha.com

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H AU T E HO T E L In its centennial year, Gucci turned to the Savoy hotel as the location for its new Aria campaign - this is, after all, where Guccio Gucci worked as a liftboy in his youth, interacting with the sort of glamorous guests he would later design clothes for.

Photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, the shoot centres around the concept of desire, with seductive images brought to life by supermodel Kristen McMenamy. To further mark the 100th anniversary, the Italian fashion house has opened Gucci Circolo, a pop-up in Shoreditch designed as an ever-evolving multi-sensory experience, complete with a curated bookstore, listening lounge and café, as well as a customised space to showcase the latest collections. gucci.com

NEW BEGINNINGS

BOTTEGA VENETA The Shell Bag, £1,805

Net-a-Porter has joined forces with technology provider Reflaunt to launch a new landmark resale service. e collaboration will enable customers to buy and resell pre-loved designer items, across jewellery, ready-to-wear, bags and shoes, on all its platforms. Complimentary collection, product authentications, pricing recommendations and photography of the items all form part of the service. ere will be an immediate ‘buy-back’ option for bags, where customers can receive instant credit without having to wait for their item to sell.

From late October; net-a-porter.com

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HARRIS REED

Reed’s oversized wide-brimmed hat filter became every fashion editor's Instagram go-to in 2020, and since then the 25-year-old designer has gone from strength to strength. His gender-fluid clothing, often comprising hoop skirts, frilled blouses and bell-bottom trousers, as well as signature gigantic headwear, has been worn by Harry Styles and, most recently, Iman at the 2021 Met Gala. This September, he achieved another first - his own show at the Serpentine, showcasing ten demi-couture looks created from thrifted wedding dresses and tuxedos found at Oxfam. One particular item to highlight was a delicate cape of sheer chiffon, perforated with intricate embroidery and fastened by white silk lapels, worn over tailored trousers. It was a triumph in both design and aesthetic. With a gothic-meets-romantic collaboration with jewellery label Missoma (pictured) that uses recycled gold, there’s not much this young designer can’t do. harrisreed.com

HARRIS REED X MISSOMA FROM TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: Star Diamond Ring, £1,500 Snake Diamond Ring, £3,250 Snake Diamond and Pearl Earrings, £2,750 Moon Diamond and Pearl Ring, £2,500 matchesfashion.com

THE NEXT-GEN NAMES TO KNOW Flora Macdonald Johnston reveals the new crop of London-based designers who are shaking up the fashion world and putting sustainability first

ANCUTA SARCA

I first came across Ancuta Sarca at Fashion East in 2019, when the innovative Romanian-born, London-based shoe designer showcased pointed-toe kitten heels and boots created from busted old Nike trainers. It was such a refreshing take on the often-overthought and overdesigned heel, and who would ever think to take old gym wear and create something so fashion forward? Now her collections, all made of upcycled and vintage fabrics, will sell out in days (two to be precise, according to stockist Browns) and she has expanded her sporty offering to include knee-high sock boots and high-heeled mules. brownsfashion.com 34

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STYLE

ALEXANDRA ŞIPA Launched in 2020,, Alexandra Șipa is tackling the issue of waste and clothing with a tech-driven approach. The Romanian-born designer and her business partner Lucas Baker have developed an innovative handmade lace created from discarded electrical wires (e-waste is one of the fastest-growing sources of waste globally, with 50 million tonnes discarded annually). The idea was born out of a happy accident after Șipa broke her headphones and noticed how colourful the wires inside were; instead of throwing them away, she decided to create a new fabric out of them. Not only is the material low-cost and waste-effective, it gives clothing a couture-like appearance.

Floral bralettes with gigantic bow-tie shoulders are embroidered with the wire technique, giving an ethereal 3D feel, while a showstopping A-line dress woven entirely out of wires took over 1,000 hours to make. alexandrasipa.com

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BAD HABITS LONDON

The clue is in the name: this vegan label is on a mission to break the bad habits of the fashion industry. Launched in October 2020 by American designer Porscha Hill, Bad Habits London offers a range of sustainable, gender-neutral clothing that is hand-crafted in the capital.

Available in limited-edition runs, each organic cotton piece is custom-made using natural dyes, made from organic, skin-friendly ingredients such as pomegranate rinds and brazilwood.

And the clothes are truly beautiful: easy and effortless tailoring in Japanese-style jackets and shirting, wide-leg trousers and loose tunic dresses with cut-out detailing, all in faded, washed-out shades that include lemon-drop yellow, powder blue and grass green. badhabitslondon.com

ISLA RISA

British label Isla Risa creates delightfully scrunched, squishy and oh-so-chic mini bags - the perfect accoutrement for a night out. Founded by Emma Garner (previously at Cult Gaia) during lockdown, her playful and colourful designs are inspired by 3D surfaces, organic forms and sculpture, all with slow fashion at the fore. Garner’s bags are created with flat ribbon and require no extra hardware - often a pitfall in terms of sustainability. The now classic Hive bag is hand-crocheted from satin ribbon and consists solely of ribbon knots - forget thread and glue. Each bag is made to order, so be sure to allow three weeks for delivery. islarisa.com

PRIYA AHLUWALIA

Ahluwalia’s multifaceted heritage is written across all her menswear collections. Born in south London to parents of Nigerian and Indian descent, her clothing uses traditional techniques spliced together with her urban upbringing. All her pieces are upcycled, and new life is breathed into fabric by the use of hand-dyes and heavy beading. Having become one of the most prominent young BAME designers on the scene, it felt right that Danish label Ganni would reach out for a collaboration – both of whom design with an eco-conscious mindset. Ahluwalia’s foray into womenswear for AW21 was, for me, a joy. Made from deadstock collected by Ganni, there were mini dresses with wavy cut panels of faux snakeskin and leather, leopard-print jumpsuits, square-neck mesh tops and knee-skimming wraptie coats. All nod to her menswear roots, in particular a matching zip-up pullover and tracksuit bottoms created with silk-panel inserts - a fresh take on the now-standardised WFH uniform of loungewear. ahluwalia.world

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STYLE

TOLU COKER

Artist, social justice advocate, sustainable fashion designer – 26-year-old BritishNigerian Tolu Coker has amassed many titles since launching her eponymous label at London Fashion Week in 2018. With celebrities like Rita Ora and Rihanna already wearing her designs, and numerous industry awards under her belt, London-based Coker is poised to change the face of womenswear.

Her collections, which use excess fabrics from textile factories to cut down on manufacturing waste, explore diasporic Black identity through mixed mediums, often complemented by illustrations, photography and film. Her most recent AW21 collection ‘SORO SOKE’ (a Yoruba phrase meaning ‘speak up’) uses Nigeria’s independence and Britain's Race Relations Act as its starting point, blending Nigerian heritage and 60s British style: a pale-blue buttery leather suit is tailored with XL lapels, mini dresses have geometric waist cut-outs, and herringbone coats are lined with printed silk imagery. tolucoker.com

NENSI DOJAKA

Most likely, you’ve seen 2021’s LVMH Prize winner Dojaka’s barely-there creations, inspired by the 90s aesthetic of Helmut Lang and Ann Demeulemeester, and featuring sheer, layered fabrics - she’s swapped out her staple georgette and organza for more sustainable materials - to create raw, deconstructed silhouettes.

Ever since supermodel Bella Hadid stepped out on the red carpet in the Central Saint Martins graduate’s seethrough panelled off-shoulder outfit last year, the Londonbased Albanian designer has garnered a cult following including Dua Lipa, Hailey Bieber and Rihanna. Designed to challenge conventional notions of female beauty, and offer a fresh take on modern femininity, her expertly crafted designs are often a sell-out; on fashion search engine Lyst, her black asymmetric mini dress was in the top 10 hottest products for the first part of the year. @nensidojaka

SS DALEY

Young menswear designer Steven Stokey-Daley once described his designs as “Cecil Beaton X Northern tea time” - and he isn’t wrong. Having previously worked in the menswear teams of both Alexander McQueen and Tom Ford, the 25-year-old’s collections for SS Daley are romantic and sensual, yet highly practical: think high-waisted wide-leg shorts and trousers, crochet boaters, linen shirts and - his speciality - masterful trench coats, often with contrasting piping or, for autumn, made with heavy wool. StokeyDayley uses deadstock fabrics and preloved garments to make his pieces, and now has an online platform to release clothing in small drops and showcase his fellow friends’ artwork. He deserves a place on this list for his coats alone. ssdaley.com

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FAS H I O N

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Beautiful People

A new exhibition celebrates the free spirit and fashion of 60s Chelsea in all its kaleidoscopic, hedonistic, individualistic glory Wo r d s HARRIET COOPER

M

id-60s London and there was one place to be: the King’s Road. This was the street that set trends.

A perfect storm of changing societal attitudes towards gender and sexuality, anti-establishment views and freedom of expression resulted in a creative hotbed in SW3 with radical designers – Barbara Hulanicki, Ossie Clark, Celia Birtwell among them – catering to a youthful, experimental crowd.

As singer and 60s icon Marianne Faithfull said: “We were young, rich and beautiful, and the tide – we thought – was turning in our favour. We were going to change everything, of course, but mostly we were going to change the rules.”

Alongside the explosion of youth culture, the Op Art movement – a form of abstract art that gives the illusion of movement – was gathering momentum through artists such as Bridget Riley and Victor Vasarely. Op Art patterns began popping up on everything from clothes to furniture – psychedelia had arrived.

Some six decades later, we have gone full circle as designers such as Prada, Raf Simons and Marine Serre turn to optical prints and geometric motifs in their collections. Perhaps, as has been suggested, like the youthquake of the 60s, these mind-bending swirls and whirls tap into the zeitgeist, echoing our own pandemic-induced turmoil. Who knows?

But it seems prescient that the Fashion and Textile Museum’s new major exhibition this autumn is Beautiful People: The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture, which explores how a handful of eradefining Chelsea boutiques sparked a fashion revolution.

Eight of the decade’s most influential stores – Hung On You, Granny Takes A Trip, Biba, Apple Boutique, Apple Tailoring, Mr Fish, Dandie Fashions and Quorum – have been faithfully recreated – a vision of oversized lapels, experimental graphics, flamboyant florals and striking tailoring – while the era’s most recognisable garments worn by the likes of Mick Jagger, Jimi Hendrix and Keith Moon are also on display.

For a joyful, colourful trip down memory lane, this is it. We’ve never needed it more.

‘Beautiful People: The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture’ is at the Fashion and Textile Museum from 1 October – 13 March 2022 ftmlondon.org 38

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STYLE Get the Look

Sixties Remix Fashion’s psychedelic revival

LEFT PAGE TOP: The Fool designs inside The Beatles Apple Boutique, 1967. Copyright Karl Ferris. LEFT PAGE BOTTOM: The New Society. Photograph taken for The Observer, December 1967. Copyright Patrick Ward. TOP: The Fool designs on the Apple Boutique stairs. Models Anke Ferris, Charlotte Martin & Renate. Copyright Karl Ferris.

BELOW: Josje Leeger and Marijke Koger. The Fool clothes designers. Copyright Karl Ferris. RIGHT: The Fool outside The Beatles Apple Boutique for which they also painted the Mural, 1967. Copyright Karl Ferris.

FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: BRANDON MAXWELL Top, £580, brandonmaxwellonline.com VERSACE PRE-OWNED Scarf, £230, farfetch.com RAF SIMONS Swirl Top, £285, farfetch.com LAPIMA Paula Sunglasses, £365, koibird.com NODALETO Bulla Babies Patent Pumps, £640, mytheresa.com EMILIO PUCCI Nuages Track Pants, £495, brownsfashion.com PACO RABANNE Ciao Paco Scarf, £90, matchesfashion.com VERSACE Monogram Dress, £1,570, versace.com FENDI Shopper Bag, £1,450, fendi.com PRADA Knit Platform Boots, £1,130, prada.com EMILIO PUCCI Bes Face Mask, £800, emiliopucci.com

T H E G LO S SA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / FAS H I O N

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Watch & Jewellery Notes

The latest launches and most covetable new pieces to have on your radar C o m p i l e d b y MING LIU

M A K E WAV E S

Aquatic shades ripple through this season’s fine jewellery, notably at Bucherer whose Pastello collection this year celebrates 20 years. Light, translucent blue sapphires anchor the new Ocean Breeze collection, which highlights the serenity of the seas, no matter the season.

From £720 bucherer.com

BIG TIME

The Piaget Polo has been the epitome of sporty chic since its inception in 1979. While the new Date 36mm collection is more refined, it retains its elegant round bezel and cushion-shaped dial, though this time the stainless steel or rose gold models are resplendent with diamonds. £18,100 piaget.com

Feline Fine

ANIMAL MAGIC Boucheron’s bejewelled feline mascot Wladimir first prowled onto the scene in 2019’s ‘Paris, vu du 26’ high jewellery collection. The maison’s spirit animal returns this autumn in a bold line of pendants and rings, with Wladimir himself bedecked in jewels on a double-faced tanzanite ring as worn by Boucheron ambassador Alexa Chung. boucheron.com

FLAMING HOT

Flaming forms and fiery citrines meet in Fernando Jorge’s new Flame collection, where the Brazilian jeweller’s favourite yellow stone is rakishly set in designs across the 30 pieces. Turn up the heat with these dynamic Beacon earrings. £9,950 fernandojorge.co.uk

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WA T C H E S & J E W E L L E R Y

CHAIN REACTION Beloved for its strong architectural look that notably nods to the Colosseum, Bulgari’s iconic B.zero1 Rock collection now has six new pieces, headlined by a super-bold and very on-trend chain necklace in white gold (£49,300). In full diamond pavé totalling 7.2cts, the piece can be worn multiple ways: with or without the pendant, or the pendant can be strewn on a thin gold chain that also comes with the jewel. bulgari.com

Retro Rules

FLASH BACK

For over a decade, Susan Caplan has been the go-to name for the best vintage jewellery from the likes of Chanel, Givenchy and Dior – and we’re thrilled that she’s now teamed up with Mappin & Webb to offer some of her exclusive stock.

Standouts are a pair of 70s style double-C hammered gold Chanel clip-ons (£1,075), emerald-shape Dior sapphire crystal earrings (£515) and a Chanel medallion chain-link bracelet (£1,770). mappinandwebb.com

R I NG THE CH A NGES

How to celebrate 20 years of a ring that revolutionised the solitaire? With chocolate, of course – or in Pomellato’s case, its new Nudo Chocolate line featuring rich moonstones and brown diamonds. Further rounding out the celebrations of Nudo’s two decades, the luxury Italian fine jeweller has brought out a new bangle, complete with five different gemstones and diamond details, which is a stacking delight.

From £2,900

pomellato.com

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RAINBOW HUES Semaphore of hope, joy and just instantly feel-good, rainbows first started trending during lockdown and it seems these technicolour bursts are officially here to stay. Watches are a brilliant canvas for rainbows, with brands putting their own spin on the theme. There are the multicoloured bezels that offset transparent dials – another big trend – on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, and Chanel’s ultra-cool J12 X-Ray Electro. Rolex’s Day-Date 36 adds extra oomph to the look, its vivid indexes really popping when set against a full diamond pavé dial. Finally, Hublot pairs a tourbillon with maximalist, full-on colour saturation, courtesy of no less than 484 coloured sapphires, in a fully integrated gem-encrusted bracelet that wraps an entire rainbow around your wrist. Mood-boosting indeed.

HUBLOT

Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow, from £654,000 hublot.com

TIME FOR A CHANGE From bold brights to iridescent dials, we’ve hand-picked the best from the latest collections Wo r d s MING LIU

ROLEX

Day-Date 36, from £102,700 watches-of-switzerland.co.uk

PIAGET

Limelight Gala Precious Rainbow, from £90,500 piaget.com

CHANEL

J12 X-Ray Electro Caliber 3.1, POA chanel.com

AUDEMARS PIGUET

Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, POA audemarspiguet.com

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WA T C H E S & J E W E L L E R Y

G

R

E

E

N

E

ROLEX

N

Y

V

Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36, from £5,650 watches-of-switzerland.co.uk

CARTIER

Tank Must, from £2,140 cartier.com

LONGINES

Evidenza, from £1,570 longines.com

First there was blue, then a vintagelike salmon; now green has emerged as watchmaking’s colour du jour. Driving this trend, no doubt, is a post-pandemic ecoconsciousness and focus on sustainability, and currently on the market are greens to suit every wrist. Breitling and Blancpain serve up delectable pastel shades, Longines and Gucci’s are more the way of intense seagreens, while Rolex’s jungle-themed Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 will transport you to exotic lush locales. Some models come with truly green credentials, too: Cartier’s new Tank Must is equipped with a solar-powered movement that won’t need changing for 16 years, while its mint-green strap is made from 40% plant matter hailing from apples discarded by the food industry.

BREITLING

Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise, from £3,600 breitling.com

TUDOR

Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K, from £12,610 tudorwatch.com

T H E G L O S S A RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / WATC H E S -J E W E L L E R Y

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GUCCI

Grip, POA gucci.com

BLANCPAIN

Villeret Women Day Date, from £9,200 blancpain.com

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HERMÈS

Arceau The Three Graces, POA hermes.com

PIAGET

R A

Altiplano High Jewellery, watch, POA piaget.com

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

O

Lady Arpels Day and Night Fée Ondine, from £125,000 vancleefarpels.com

&

F

L

CHAUMET

F A U N A

Éclosion de Chaumet, POA chaumet.com

This season, watchmakers have been channelling their love of nature into their timepieces, celebrating Mother Earth’s power and beauty via exquisite craftsmanship – the more fantastical the better. At Chaumet, spellbinding ranunculuses were the main muse, and came to life via striking green lacquer inlaid over white mother-of-pearl dials. On Hermès’s Arceau The Three Graces, wood marquetry from American walnut and maple sits alongside European sycamore and tulip to painstakingly depict a giraffe’s uniquely mottled coat. But most dreamy of all is Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Day and Night Fée Ondine, an automated beauty that depicts an enchanting fairy in a lotus pond on a summer’s day, the sun rising and setting below the horizon.

DIOR

La D de Dior Rose, from £44,000 dior.com

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WA T C H E S & J E W E L L E R Y

C O C K TA I L

HOUR

It's full-on glamour when it comes to this year’s Roaring Twenties reboot, and these splendid new cocktail watches will have you looking right on trend. History buffs will appreciate that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso One Cordonnet actually takes after a model first launched in the original Jazz Age - in 1933, to be precise - the initial leather cord today replaced with a supple gem-set braid of gold, the whole timepiece set with 1,104 diamonds.

Graff ’s sensual ribbon-topped Tilda Bow is a masterclass

CHAUMET

CHOPARD

L’Épi de Blé de Chaumet, POA chaumet.com

Happy Diamonds Haute Joaillerie, POA chopard.com

ROLEX

TAG HEUER Aquaracer, from £2,200 tagheuer.com

GRAFF

HERMÈS

Faubourg Polka, from £79,750, hermes.com

P E A R L Y

Datejust 31, POA watches-of-switzerland.co.uk

in taking monochrome styling to ultra-feminine levels, while Chopard’s fabulous and fierce Happy Diamonds Haute Joaillerie number not only reflects our times with 18ct ethical white gold, but five brilliant loose diamonds also dance across the dial – an echo of the kind of moves we’ll all be making for nights to come.

Tilda Bow, POA graff.com

Reverso One Cordonnet, POA jaeger-lecoultre.com

Q U E E N S

OMEGA

Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronomete, from £14,180 omegawatches.com

With their mystical, earthy tones and refined air of romance, motherof-pearl conveys a certain kind of subtle glamour. Formed over time from layers of nacre lining the inside of molluscs, no two motherof-pearls are alike and the prettiest come in an array of tones, from opalescent greys and shimmering silvers to milky whites. They shine all the brighter when set in the dials of some of this season’s most covetable new watches. The yellowgold finish and diamond-set bezel on Rolex’s dazzling Datejust 31 highlights the mother-of-pearl’s intensity, while Omega and TAG Heuer have paired iridescent dials with two-tone, bi-metal finishes to achieve a look of understated sporting elegance.

T H E G L O S S A RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / WATC H E S -J E W E L L E R Y

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JAEGERLECOULTRE

TIFFANY

1837 Makers 16mm Square Watch, POA tiffany.co.uk

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drsebagh.com

Our party trick.

Transform tired, dull-looking skin and glow through the party season with Dr Sebagh Deep Exfoliating Mask. Powered by Azelaic and lactic acid, this express treatment leaves skin brighter and smoother within minutes whilst boosting cell turnover. Also available in a gentler formula, for more sensitive skins.

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BEAUTY

BOLD MOVE Chanel has switched up its Rouge Allure Laque lip collection with a palette of six new hues, the unique blend of pigments packing a punch on colour and intensity. The house’s first liquid lipstick to deliver a satin shine finish, its ultra-hydrating, water-resistant formula leaves lips soft and supple all day long.

Rouge Allure Laque Ultrawear Shine Liquid Lip Colour, £33 chanel.com

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Beauty Notes

Eyeliner gets a modern twist, high-performance hair care & the return of Bobbi Brown C o m p i l e d b y C H A R LOT T E A DS E T T

BOBBI’ S BACK

Jones Road is Bobbi Brown’s first foray into make=up since leaving her eponymous brand in 2016, 2016, so you know it’s going to be good. Founded on the premise that every product should be a hero product, the collection is a brilliant edit of everyday essentials. Must-buy is the Miracle Balm – a skin tint, blush, bronzer and highlighter all in one.

jonesroadbeauty.com

LET IT A LL GLOW

Sophie Tajan for Parfums Christian Dior

Get ready for the party season with Dr Sebagh’s Glow Getters gift set containing a trio of the French skincare brand’s hero products – the smoothing, tightening Serum Repair; radianceboosting Self-Tanning Drops, and the Shimmering Body Oil for a subtle golden finale - all of which come in an Alice In Wonderland box. £95.

drsebagh.com

AW21 Trend

TRUE BLUE As seen at Dior this season, swap out your black eyeliner for blue. Whether a dash of indigo or a flick of bright metallic navy, the hue gives a modern slant to any look, flattering all eye colours and making them pop.

Diorshow On Stage Felt-Tip Eyeliner, £28; dior.com

T U R N U P T H E VOLU M E

Add some va-va-voom to your hair with the acclaimed volumising range from Parisian brand Christophe Robin.

Our favourite is the Cleansing Volumising Paste (£40), a root-li ing clay-to-foam shampoo formulated with pure rassoul Moroccan volcanic clay and rose extract.

Not only does it smell divine, it’ll instantly boost fine, flat hair, leaving it thicker and more voluminous.

christopherobin.co.uk

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Looking Rosie

Star Appeal

PAR TIME Phoebe Dynevor has been named as the first ever Charlotte Tilbury global brand ambassador, marking her beauty industry debut. The Bridgerton star - whose character Daphne Bridgerton wore the iconic nude ‘Pillow Talk’ lipstick in the first series of the period drama - channels old-school Hollywood glamour for the party season.

Following on from the success of her beauty website, British supermodel Rosie Huntington-Whiteley has launched her own beauty brand, also called Rose Inc, created ethically and sustainably using bioengineered botanicals and plant-derived ingredients. Made up of the key makeup and skincare products that she uses to achieve her trademark beauty looks, the tightly edited capsule collection of high-performance, noncomedogenic formulations is also 100 percent vegan and cruelty-free.

Stocked exclusively at Space NK, it features a brightening serum and toner, as well as a cream blush, a does-it-all concealer, a brow gel and, of course, a long-wearing lip crayon. spacenk.com

charlottetilbury.com

Skin Deep A trio of products has been introduced to Bamford’s skincare range, all powered by natural ingredients: both the revitalising Vitamin C Serum and SPF50 sunscreen are noteworthy, but it’s the Hyaluronic Glow Mist that’s standout, with its blend of hydrolats, antioxidants and actives that are super hydrating and give skin an ultra dewy finish. Experience the brand’s holistic approach to skin with the new Wellness Facial at the Bamford Spa in Brompton Cross.

bamford.com

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

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My Beauty Glossary

e New

AU MN

SKINCARE EDIT From an all-rounder serum to the gamechanging retinols, Alessandra Steinherr shares her tried-and-tested new-season skincare products

M

y mantra for this autumn is that yes, while it’s definitely the time for switching your skincare up a notch and introducing a more complex routine than usual to work on pigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles and texture, keep it gentle.

There are some really innovative and sophisticated launches this season, but the key is to introduce any new skincare formulations gradually. Using the wrong products or the right products incorrectly can over-compromise the skin barrier, resulting in inflammatory reactions and irritated skin that’s totally counter productive. Not only this, but if you start using too many different products, you won’t actually know which ones are working for you, and which aren’t.

As the warmer weather gives way to autumn and then winter, now is the time to introduce new actives, as sunlight deactivates retinoids and strong acids. Though do remember you need to wear an SPF30 year-round in the UK, outside and indoors to protect not just from the sun’s rays, which can penetrate windows, but also blue-light damage, emitted from our screens.

It’s also time to nourish, replenish and support skin barrier function, which can become impaired as the temperature dips and the heating goes on, by layering up with moisturisers and serums, and introducing hydrating and ultra-nourishing masks and balms to your regime.

Just remember to go into this season with a renewed understanding that it’s actually about being moderate, rather than piling on every new product. Here’s my pick of the best of what’s new this season.

NEXT- GEN ACTIVES

The latest retinol products all deliver on firming, smoothing and anti-ageing results without irritation or compromising the skin barrier. Welcome to the new generation of actives…

You want a controlled delivery when it comes to applying a retinol around the eyes, which makes Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Line Erasing Eye Cream (£50) ideal.

It comes in a pump that gives you exactly the right dosage: an eighthour release of retinol, peptides, niacinamide and ceramides to firm, depuff and improve tone.

Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum (£40) is a combination of retinoid, peptide complex and hyaluronic acid - so you get the rejuvenating action of a retinol, but it's also hydrating and boosts collagen. Plus, it’s gentle enough to use twice a day, though always wear sunscreen.

If you have a loss of elasticity and an onset of wrinkles, dehydration or uneven skin tone, Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Wrinkle Treatment (£86) is for you. The blend of retinol, ferulic acid, superfruitderived ingredient rambutan and antioxidant bakuchiol smooths and strengthens skin while you sleep.

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

CHANEL

L’Eau de Mousse Anti-Pollution Water-To-Foam Cleanser (£40) is a soap- and sulphate-free self-foaming cleanser that rids skin of impurities and pollutants. Hydrating, deep conditioning ingredients include marine salicornia extract to deliver instant moisture and freshness without disturbing the acid mantle, making it particularly suitable for sensitive skin.

Chanel has added to its Le Lift firming skincare line with Lip and Contour Care (£68), which smooths, plumps and firms the delicate skin around the mouth and lips. Plus, the silky, non-greasy texture makes it perfect for wearing under lipstick.

AUGUSTINUS BADER

Augustinus Bader is one of the most exciting brands on the market - I’m a huge fan. The hype around these two new hero products – both of which are powered by Bader’s famous patented TFC8® technology – is fully justified. The Serum (£280), silky smooth to apply, is a real all-rounder, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, leaving skin super hydrated and radiant.

The Eye Cream (£150) is a lovely lightweight formula that boosts firmness and reduces puffiness and dark circles. Both come in 100% recyclable and refillable aluminium tubes in a blue glass base, combining luxury with sustainability.

OMOROVICZA

CLARINS

RÉVIVE

BIOSSANCE

The Queen Cream (£155) is very distinct from other moisturisers. It has a unique, balmy texture -while it doesn’t sink in immediately, it’s not heavy or sticky and leaves skin feeling very soft and nourished. The best way to describe it is like a silicone cream – it gives a beautiful finish to the face – but it doesn’t have silicone in it.

If you have dryness, the Queen Cleanser (£69) is a hydrating cream-cleanser that has that nostalgic, luxurious feeling of using a cold cream back in the day. It cleanses without stripping away any moisture and is really effective as a make-up remover.

The skin regenerates itself at night, so if you’re susceptible to irritation, use a night cream specifically developed for sensitivity.

Sensitif Repairing Night Cream (£170) is a calming, redness-reducing gel-like cream with niacinamide to improve uneven skin tone.

Skin around the eyes is much thinner than elsewhere on the face, and prone to showing damage and ageing. What’s interesting about the Sensitif Eye Cream (£125) is that it’s for use during the day, as it has an SPF30. It’s very difficult to get an eye cream with SPF that is tolerable for sensitive skin because sunscreen can be irritating.

T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

ALEX EDIT 15.indd 51

I’m excited that Clarins has finally brought out an eye product in their best selling Double Serum line. The Double Eye Serum (£56) has the same two-phase formula, with dual chambers containing water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients, which you mix pre application.

Enriched with plant extracts including antiageing powerhouse turmeric, it’s comfortable to apply and feels nourishing and conditioning, leaving the eye area firmer and smoother - great for people who feel like they’re showing the first signs of ageing – and, although it’s rich, it isn’t heavy so won’t migrate and irritate.

Squalane is one of my favourite skincare ingredients - it’s so versatile and really benefits most skin types. Biossance is a go-to for me, and I’m impressed with the latest additions. Squalane + BHA Pore Minimizing Toner ($28) combines natural BHA, derived from raw white-willow bark, which really clears out the oil from pores, and hydrating squalane, so skin isn’t left feeling stripped.

Squalane + Elderberry Jelly Cleanser ($28) is one of those rich, melt-away cleansers, ideal for the heavier make-up wearer, or for cleansing the skin of sunscreen, with antioxidant-rich elderberry extract.

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AU T UM N ’ S NEW N OT ES COSY UP WITH THIS SEASON’S LATEST FRAGRANCES C o m p i l e d b y C H A R LOT T E A DS E T T

LOUIS VUITTON Les Extraits Collection

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £400 each The French fashion house has collaborated with architect Frank Gehry to design the sculptural bottles for this new collection of fragrances. Master perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud has crafted five editions, each one a different olfactive family: Cosmic Cloud, a powdery and fruity musk with notes of bergamot; Dancing Blossom, a fusion of jasmine sambac, rose, and Indian tuberose; Rhapsody, a fresh combination of yerba maté and lily of the valley; Stellar Times, a woody perfume with a hint of orange blossom; and Symphony, a spicy blend of ginger zest, bergamot and grapefruit. The bottle is a continuation, in miniature, of Gehry’s iconic design of the Fondation Louis Vuitton, with the showstopping silver topper, made from aluminium sheets, swaying like fabric in the wind. louisvuitton.com 52

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

ACQUA DI PARMA Lily of the Valley

AERIN Cedar Violet

Eau de Parfum, 50ml, £99 Echoing the wilderness of the Adirondack mountains in upstate New York, Aerin’s latest launch combines the woody earthiness of the outdoors with fresh floral notes. Virginia cedarwood, amber and sandalwood provide a sensuous base, while the heart of golden gardenia and jasmine is both uplifting and playful.

Through the finish of lush green violet leaf and sweet muguet, the invigorating scent calls to mind a golden-hued forest on a crisp autumn day. harrods.com

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £199 A sunny, joyful fragrance, Acqua Di Parma’s latest addition to the Signatures of the Sun collection combines the lively, floral notes of lily of the valley with vibrant citrus. The scent of this delicate flower is enriched with grapefruit and petit grain, with a hint of blackcurrant and Italian bergamot, while the lily’s heart notes are mixed with jasmine and magnolia to enliven the floral bouquet, with musk and cedarwood at the base to give it an autumnal flourish. acquadiparma.com

BYREDO Young Rose

BDK PARFUMS Velvet Tonka

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £170 The Parisian perfume house’s latest offering is a tribute to Morocco, a country to which founder David Benedek has deep ties. The tonka bean, a complex and multifaceted ingredient, is at the heart of this perfume, with its varying notes of vanilla, leather, almonds, and hints of chocolate. Orange blossom and almond add a sweet fi nish, drawing out the blend’s hint of tobacco and velvety rose for a long-lasting, sensual result. selfridges.com

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £178 Offering a modern take on the classic floral scent, Young Rose is an ode to the energy, spirit and experimentation of youth. Stripping the flower of its traditionally feminine connotations, fiery Sichuan pepper is layered over Damascus rose, a deliberately unconventional pairing to reflect the complexity of romance and love.

An additional top note of ambrette seeds enhances the spiciness, while base notes of musk and ambroxan give the fragrance its depth and woodsy richness. libertylondon.com

SANA JARDIN Vanilla Nomad

JO MALONE English Pear & Freesia

Cologne, 100ml, £102 Inspired by the John Keats poem To Autumn, Jo Malone’s English Pear & Freesia Cologne transports wearers to a fragrant British orchard bathed in golden sunlight.

First launched in 2010, the fruity chypre has been re-issued as a limited-edition fluted glass bottle.

Sensual and ambrosial, just-ripe King William pears are wrapped in a bouquet of delicate white freesias, while a base of amber and patchouli mellows out the sweetness and grounds the cologne in a rich, autumnal root. jomalone.co.uk

Eau de Parfum, 50ml, £95 This new perfume from the conscious fragrance house is a seductive blend of vanilla spice, jasmine absolute and rich sandalwood, grounded by an earthy base of vetiver and patchouli. Inspired by Sana Jardin’s founder Amy’s travels through the North African desert, where vanilla incense was burned as an evening ritual, the fragrance was designed to evoke feelings of gratitude, while also highlighting the lesser-known aphrodisiac qualities of vanilla. sanajardin.com T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

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fragrances powered by flowers

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

DIOR Vanilla Diorama

DIPTYQUE Kyoto

YVES SAINT LAURENT Rouge Velours

ESTÉE LAUDER Sensuous Stars

Eau de Parfum, 75ml, £155 This floral chypre is the latest launch from Yves Saint Laurent Beauté’s Le Vestiaire des Parfums Signature Collection, a series of fragrances that each interpret a centrepiece of the couturier’s wardrobe. Inspired by red velvet, a fabric which Saint Laurent has heavily featured from boleros in his ‘Ballets Russes’ collection to today’s tuxedos, Rouge Velours combines rose and jasmine over a base of earthy and woody patchouli, vetiver and musk for a complex and heady scent. yslbeauty.co.uk

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £130 Estée Lauder has introduced a new collection of eight distinctive perfumes designed to evoke a specific mood or emotion, and all feature the brand’s new and exclusive ScentCapture Fragrance Extender™ technology, a formulation that means each scent lasts up to 12 hours. Sensuous Stars was created to conjure a feeling of happiness a feeling of happiness, and is inspired by moonlit walks, combining notes of Chinese plum with rich Orris from Italy, and a veil of soothing French lavender. esteelauder.co.uk

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE Synthetic Jungle by Anne Flipo

MAISON MARGIELA REPLICA Autumn Vibes

Eau de Parfum, 125ml, £220 Inspired by Diorama Gourmand, one of Christian Dior's favourite desserts that was created especially for him by famous Parisian restaurant Maxim’s, Vanilla Diorama is indulgent and opulent. Francois Demachy, Dior’s in-house perfumer, has dreamt up a sweet edible scent using the finest Madagascan Bourbon Vanilla at its heart, which sets a rich, enveloping tone, while accents of rum and patchouli give it warmth, and a denser cocoa note adds depth. dior.com

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £135 Part of Diptyque’s ‘Le Grand Tour’ collection, Kyoto takes inspiration from ikebana, a traditional Japanese art based on floral composition according to ancestral codes. Blended by legendary perfumer Alexandra Carlin, notes of smoky incense, Turkish rose and woody vetiver represent the discipline's three pillars of sky, heart and earth. In keeping with the furoshiki tradition, the purple bottle comes wrapped in fabric printed with a Sarayi pattern created by the label's founders. selfridges.com

Eau de Toilette, 100ml, £99 Inspired by the smell of walking through woods on an autumnal afternoon, surrounded by towering trees bathed in golden sunlight. Base notes of cedar, fi r balsam and earthy moss combine to instantly evoke the great forested outdoors. Tempered with the freshness of cardamom, pink peppercorn and red berry to arouse the sensation of crisp leaves underfoot, the woody fragrance strikes a warm, amber chord that’s both rich and comforting. selfridges.com

Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £195 For its first green, vegetal fragrance, Frédéric Malle commissioned renowned master perfumer Anne Flipo. Inspired by heady cult perfumes from the 70s, Flipo’s creation reimagines a natural world through a modern lens. Earthy notes of basil, moss and patchouli oil as the opulent base are blended with recomposed bouquets of hyacinth, lily of the valley and ylang ylang oil, and rounded off with blackcurrant and patchouli for a bright, lush finish. libertylondon.com T H E G L O S S A R Y M AGA Z I N E .C O M / B E A U T Y-W E L L N E S S

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London’s Fresh Face A new wave of beauty salons in the capital are leading the way with innovative treatments and sustainable practices

The Light Salon

Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, Westminster, W1

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thelight-salon.com

he Light Salon has expanded its ever-growing empire across the UK and US, with the opening of its latest skincare and wellbeing destination at Selfridges Oxford Street. The expert-led brand is the go-to for LED light therapy, which harnesses the power of red and near-infrared wavelengths to stimulate the skin’s cells and boost collagen

production, helping to reduce fine lines, improve skin tone and give a healthy, hydrated glow - as well as working on skin conditions such as acne and psoriasis - all while you sit in an ultracomfortable chair and bask under a warm light.

Benefits are more than skin deep, with the non-invasive treatments improving blood circulation to give temporary relief to stiffness and pain, and encouraging muscle relaxation.

Often referred to as ‘happy lamps’, they can also have a dramatic impact on your mood.

Treatments include bespoke offerings, tailored to specific skin concerns, as well as a variety of microneedling and full-body options such as Pressotherapy, a deeply satisfying detoxifying lymphatic massage and LED treatment on the body.

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Samantha Cusick

presalons.com

samanthacusicklondon.com

325 Upper Street, Islington, N1

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5 Rathbone Square, Fitzrovia, W1

his new salon in Islington has kept things delightfully simple with just three options - facials, nails and waxing.

But while the treatment menu may be pared back, it’s been curated by founder and former beauty PR Mimi Gaston-Kennedy to make you feel your best as conveniently as possible, with all your beauty maintenance under one roof, and is perfectly executed by an experienced team of technicians.

The chic space is a serene sanctuary of pale pinks and forest greens set across three floors, with areas specifically dedicated to each treatment type. Manicures and pedicures take place in the naturally lit basement, using non-toxic, vegan brands, while two private rooms have been set aside specifically for waxing by specialist therapists.

The customised facials are done in chairs on the ground floor, using beautyeditor favourite cosmeceutical brand Medik8, alongside add-ons including diamond-tip microdermabrasion, LED light therapy, and oxygen blast technology, to name a few.

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visit to a Samantha Cusick London hair salon has always felt like hanging out at the home of one of your closest girlfriends, and that’s even more evident in their new Fitzrovia site. Situated on picturesque Rathbone Square, the emphasis here is on fun, from the eye-catching palm print wallpaper and neon Beyoncé quotes on the wall to their glittertopped coffees and candy floss-filled Mermaid Martinis.

But don’t be fooled into thinking they’re not serious about hair – wearable styling and colour expertise

remains at the heart of what they do, which has made them one of the capital’s go-to destinations for balayage, colour melts, ecaille and their signature SCL beach wave.

Their Fitzrovia salon builds on the success of their Notting Hill site, with playfully sophisticated Hollywood Regency-inspired interiors featuring gold accents and Carrara marble, as well their first designated ‘Colour Bar’, designed to showcase the in-depth level of customisation that goes into formulating every client’s colour.

Snail & Hare 12 Poland Street, Soho, W1 snailandhare.co.uk

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full-service salon in central London that is fully committed to responsible beauty, Snail & Hare in Soho offers a consciously curated menu covering manicures and pedicures, blow dries, facials, aromatherapy massage, threading, waxing and more - providing certain treatments simultaneously for those pressed for time.

Founder Aya Alieva has sourced only eco-conscious, organic brands, including Italian hair care range Oway, which is based around zeromile biodynamic extracts, hydrolates and pure essential oils; CO2-neutral skincare brand Skin Regimen; and for

nails, Gel Bottle Inc and Nailberry polishes, which are non-toxic, vegan and cruelty-free.

This sustainable ethos runs further throughout the salon’s outfitting; furniture is refurbished and reconditioned, and the innovative water-filtration system EcoHeads has been implemented to not only reduce water waste, but also remove the dirt, chlorine and rust often found in urban H2O, leaving hair softer and your blowout lasting longer.

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Gathering Changemakers To Solve Real-World Challenges A collaborative community of people committed to creating a just, prosperous and sustainable future.

Our members are entrepreneurs, investors, creatives, business leaders, activists, civil-society leaders and policymakers, bringing together knowledge, networks and capital for sustained positive impact.

theconduit.com 6 Langley St, London WC2H 9JA

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RED HOT This season heralds a slew of hot new bar openings across the capital, from underground speakeasies to grand hotels, like The Connaught, which has launched its first new drinking spot in over a decade: the Red Room.

Designed in homage to female artists, each of the red artworks that lines the walls has been created by a female visionary, including a striking Louise Bourgeois painting above the fireplace. Centred around a showstopping pink onyx bar, wine will be the main focus here, with a list featuring some of the world’s best reds straight from the hotel’s legendary wine cellar. the-connaught.co.uk

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Tasting Notes The new openings and

places to know across the capital this season

GRAND DESIGNS

The historic dining room of the Kimpton Fitzroy London – the Titanic’s was modelled on it – is a spectacular setting for Galvin Bar & Grill, the new British restaurant from Michelin-star brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin. The menu reads beautifully, with glazed Dorset lobster omelette, and tarte tatin with clotted cream ice cream among the highlights.

1-8 Russell Square, Bloomsbury, WC1 galvinrestaurants.com

C o m p i l e d b y H I L A RY A R M ST RO N G

Social Club

First it was a supper club, then a residency, now the Water House Project has a permanent home near Regent’s Canal in Bethnal Green. Chef Gabriel Waterhouse calls his forward-thinking approach ‘social fine-dining’, with chefs themselves serving the nine-course modern British menu from the ‘borderless’ open kitchen.

1 Corbridge Crescent, Bethnal Green, E2 thewaterhouseproject.com

Nordic Flair

The most powerful maître d’ in London, Jesus Adorno, has joined Brown’s Hotel as director of hospitality after 39 years at Le Caprice. Rocco Forte approached the ‘king of restaurants’ some years ago but the timing wasn’t right – until now. Adorno’s focus is on Charlie’s, Adam Byatt’s sumptuous British restaurant at the five-star property, where suave service and silver trolleys seduce the great and the good.

Charlie’s at Brown’s Hotel, 33, Albemarle Street, Mayfair, W1 roccofortehotels.com

JUST THE TICKET

NEW FLAME Swedish celebrity chef Niklas Ekstedt, who cooks solely with fire, has realised his long-held ambition to open in the capital, with his eponymous restaurant at Great Scotland Yard Hotel. Ekstedt applies new Nordic techniques to British ingredients in signatures such as oyster flambadou with smoked apple, beurre blanc and nasturtium, and cep soufflé with birch ice cream.

3-5 Great Scotland Yard, Westminster, SW1 ekstedtattheyard.com

AT YOUR SERVICE

Nearly 50 percent of the small plates at this buzzy new Mayfair spot are vegetarian or vegan. Here, Michelinstar Indian chef Rohit Ghai is serving his mother’s aloo paratha with fresh butter, as well as jackfruit dosai, Burford Brown egg curry and traditional garlic kheer.

Booking Office 1869, opening this October at Kings Cross, will be one restaurant worth missing the train for. French architect Hugo Toro has come up with a spectacularly eccentric scheme for the all-day, late-night spot at hotelier Harry ‘Chiltern Firehouse’ Handelsman’s St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, involving towering palm trees and a 22-metre bar dispensing clear margaritas. Allegra chef Patrick Powell will serve a smart menu of fried chicken and sashimi tuna skewers.

49 Maddox Street,Mayfair, W1 manthanmayfair.co.uk

Euston Road, King's Cross, NW1 booking-office.co.uk

Spice and Soul

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FOOD & DRINK

FOOD MEETS ART

Spanish chef José Pizarro has taken over the light-filled Senate Room at the Royal Academy of Arts for his new tapas restaurant, José Pizarro at the RA. What could be better than some jamón ibérico, a plate of gambas, and a glass of cava after a spin round the Summer Exhibition? His Poster Bar on the ground floor is a lovely spot for a snack and a cold beer too.

Royal Academy of Arts, 6 Burlington Gardens, Mayfair, W W1 josepizarro.com

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Restaurant R E V I E W S

Table Talk

From the revival of a Chelsea stalwart to an opulent Chinese in Mayfair, Hilary Armstrong samples the capital’s finest new restaurants

Mimi Mei Fair 55 C u r z on St reet, M ay f a i r, W1 m i m i me i f ai r.c om

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nce upon a time there was a beautiful empress named MiMi…” Thus begins the story told by restaurateur Samyukta Nair (Jamavar, Bombay Bustle) and her design collaborators Fabled Studio at MiMi Mei Fair, Nair’s opulent new Chinese restaurant on Curzon Street.

This is a restaurant as fantasy, the opulent townhouse imagined as the private London residence of their fictional heroine and brought to richly detailed, almost cinematic life, worthy of a Wong Kar-wai picture. We go inside to take a look.

She lives in high style, this glamorous émigrée. Her Georgian townhouse has secrets hidden across all three storeys. We’re seated in the ‘Hall’ on the first floor, in a shiny wooden booth that might have come from the Orient Express. “Park Chinois meets Bob Bob Ricard”, remarks my restaurant-literate date. It’s the buzziest room, though arguably not as jaw-droppingly beautiful as the coral and Wedgwood-blue parlour upstairs with its chandeliers and Chinoiserie screens, or the drawing room with its yellow walls and art collection.

She’s quite the epicurean too, our friend MiMi, and has appointed ChineseSingaporean chef Peter Ho (My Humble House, HKK, Hakkasan) to indulge her

every whim, from xiao long bao in the colours of the rainbow to whole langoustine, head and claws intact, wrapped in crispy noodles and anointed with a dab of Périgord tru�le.

It’s all thoroughly decadent. The star attraction, however, is roasted Peking duck, expertly carved at our table, served with sugar for the skin (as glossy and reflective as mahogany) and homemade chilli and garlic sauces for the tender meat. There’s only so much the two of us can manage, while saving room for juicy Singapore chilli prawns with black-andwhite sesame-studded mantou ‘cigars’

and a late attempt to get our five-a-day in the form of addictive XO Okra scattered with shallot and enoki mushroom and simply steamed baby pak choi. Next time, we’ll come with friends – greedy ones – to order the black pepper crab, the steamed Dover sole or, no, maybe the dim sum or the tasting menu. So many choices... it’s a hard life being empress MiMi for a day.

Pass the opium, somebody.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £200 SIGNATURE DISHES: Xiao Long Jewels; Peking Duck with Pancakes WHAT TO DRINK: MiMi’s-Tini; Chestnut Sour

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The Sea The Sea 337 Ac ton Mews, Ha g ger ston, E 8 the s e athe s e a .ne t

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his being east London, you could be forgiven for thinking the whole turbot you see hanging in the window of a repurposed railway arch is the latest installation by some up-andcoming local artist. In fact, the handsome specimen on display is being held in the walk-in aging room of new destination restaurant The Sea, The Sea, until Portuguese chef Leandro Carreira deems it ready to cook.

Inside, there’s space for just 12 seats a night around the horseshoe-shaped counter. Here, Carreira serves his ambitious £110-a-head ‘omakase’-style menu to the kind of hardcore foodies who think nothing of schlepping to Haggerston in hot pursuit of the umami hit that only ten-day aged turbot with a sauce made of four different vinegars will deliver. That’s not all that’s happening under the arches: the restaurant is one arm of seafood wholesalers The Sea, The Sea (founded by Alex Hunter, ex-Bonnie Gull), whose swanky fish shop and seafood bar opened in Chelsea in 2019, and whose rapidly growing wholesale business now operates out of Hackney, distributing day boat fish from British waters to the most

discerning Michelin-star chefs across the capital (among them, Ikoyi’s Jeremy Chan, and the Clove Club’s Isaac McHale).

The kitchen is Carreira’s domain. The chef, who came up through Mugaritz and Nuno Mendes’ Viajante, is known for challenging, cerebral cooking that draws on influences from Japan and his native Portugal.

For every dish that leaves us scratching our heads (the spongey langoustine layer cake of seaweed, egg and langoustine floss is one such) there are five others that have us all but licking the plates. An avant-garde ascetic minimalism defines the best: Isle of Man scallops and kombu; razor clams hiding under a sheet of shiny black garlic; and a coiled ribbon of chilled kohlrabi with caviar. Caviar returns in a dessert, a dense, rich Portuguese pão de ló (egg cake) with toasted fennel ice cream that elicits an expression of pure delight from everybody in the room. Book now while it’s still possible to get a seat.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £275 SIGNATURE DISHES: Langoustine ‘wedding cake’; dry-aged turbot WHAT TO DRINK: Cloudy sake Martini

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Sessions Arts Club

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The Old S e s sion s Hou s e, 24 Clerkenwel l Green, Fa r r i n gdon, E C1 s e s sion s ar t s club.c om

f Sessions Arts Club were an actual club, the waiting list for new members would be years-long. Happily, however, this sumptuous new restaurant, bar and terrace in an 18th-Century courthouse in Clerkenwell is a club in name alone. Anyone can join in, so long as they’ve a taste for good food, good wine and good company. The venue’s the creation of artist Jonny Gent, joined by legendary front of house man Jon Spiteri (one of the founders of St John) and chef Florence Knight, who returns to the London scene after a six-year hiatus (she was head chef at Soho’s Polpetto until 2015).

The dining room with its peeling plaster, faded grandeur and epic proportions, is pure escapism. Perhaps it’s a down-on-his-luck aristo’s dilapidated palazzo or a derelict theatre, whose lofty ceilings set off Gent’s curation of contemporary art, which will continue to evolve in the months and years to

come. From our table on the mezzanine (there’s no bad table), we’re eye level with sculptor Gabriele Beveridge’s silver mannequins’ legs.

Elsewhere, painter Alison Jones’s glamorous Bianca Jagger greets guests on arrival.

Knight’s cooking is lovelier than ever. She allows herself to be guided by the seasons and so should you. Our Bellini was with mirabelles; they’ll be out by the time you get there, but autumnal red plums will be every bit as delicious. Our ‘petit aioli’ came with green beans and shocking-pink radishes; yours may have cicoria and pink firs to swipe through the glistening mayo.

Calamarata, a traditional Neapolitan dish rarely found here, is fast becoming a signature. It’s visually not much, just a jumble of rings, some pasta, some squid, but the pleasure is there where taste and texture diverge.

There’s not a drop of sauce left on the plate. Dessert sees Knight push flavours to their limit; sharp lemon sorbet and bitter chocolate tart are almost, almost, too much.

The wine list, by Noble Rot’s Keeling Andrew & Co, deals in equally stimulating rarities, with little over £100. There’s really no reason to leave.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £120 SIGNATURE DISHES: Squid, tomato, calamarata; eel, potato, crème fraîche, roe WHAT TO DRINK: Seasonal Bellini

THE CA D O GA N ARMS

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298 K i n g ’s Ro ad, Chel s e a , S W3 the c a dog anar m s .london

hen JKS Restaurants, the hospitality supremos behind Gymkhana, Lyle’s, Kitchen Table and co [see Bibi, right], open their first pub, you know it’s going to be special.

The first sign the stars were aligned over their revival of SW3 institution the Cadogan Arms was the appointment of James Knappett, holder of two Michelin stars at Kitchen Table, as culinary director. Knappett grew up in pubs, and from the magic words – ham, egg and chips – on the menu, it’s clear he holds them dear. Of course, this being a Chelsea pub and a JKS one to boot, it is no ordinary pub. There’s not a tatty carpet nor fruit machine in sight; instead, sprays of chic dried flowers and peacock feathers, plush velvet upholstery, and polished timber for days.

Even more importantly, the glistening row of taps running the length of the handcarved bar, promises a great pint – perhaps a sessionable table saison from Wales or the Cadogan Arms’ own Cornish pilsner, a collaboration with Harbour Brewery. Beyond beer, there’s an impressive wine list with some toppy bottles from Burgundy and Bordeaux, and modern cocktails such as lemon verbena Palomas and teeny tiny Hanky Panky chasers. As with all the best boozers, one’s tempted to move in immediately.

One would certainly be well fed. There’s a good mix of ‘pub grub’ – I can’t resist the retro prawn cocktail, Scotch egg and chicken Kiev – and some more elegant ‘restaurant’ cuisine such as raw and pickled vegetables bagna càuda and roasted turbot on the bone with brown shrimps.

To finish three courses is a tall order, however. These are proper pub portions! I’d urge you to save space for the sherry trifle, however, a kitsch classic finished with a piped whorl of crème fraîche. I’ve already booked a return visit to try the Sunday roast. The Cadogan Arms is a local to cross town for.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £90 SIGNATURE DISHES: Brown Crab Quiche; Chicken Kiev; Strawberry Sherry Trifle WHAT TO DRINK: Nitro Espresso Martinis on tap

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Restaurant R E V I E W S

BIBI

42 Nor th Aud ley St reet, M ay f a i r, W1 bibi re st au r ant s .c om

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ayfair newcomer Bibi resembles a splendidly appointed first-class train carriage, all panelled walls, polished mirrors and paisley upholstery. Only the 90s hip hop betrays the fact there are young chefs in the house. It’s a far cry from the laboratory conditions of the Oxford physics department where Chet Sharma, Bibi’s chef patron, earned his doctorate before swapping lab coat for chef’s whites. His debut restaurant, a partnership with JKS Restaurants (Gymkhana, Lyle’s etc), is a tribute to his grandmothers, his ‘bibis’ (Urdu for ‘lady of the house’).

Observing Sharma at the pass (13 of the 33 seats are at the kitchen counter), one can see the focus and precision of the scientist he was and the obsession with

ingredients of the chef he now is. It’s this preoccupation with provenance, drilled into him at Mugaritz, the Ledbury, Moor Hall, that separates Bibi from the pack. How many Indian restaurants do you know that print the menu daily? Consider the sweetcorn kurkure, fiery lacy fritters, spiked with yellow chilli and corn husk mayo: Sharma could make them year-round but he won’t.

They’ll return next year when the corn’s at its sweetest and juiciest again, redolent of the summer sun’s last rays. It’s a hard act to follow, and the next dish, a tartare-esque beef pepper fry, one of the more expensive plates at just £14, pales in comparison. I want the taste of fermented Tellicherry pepper but get mainly salt. The kitchen returns to form with traditional minced chicken seekh from

the sigree grill; a perfect square of springy, milky paneer and a super-cute, saffron kulfi mini ‘Magnum’.

The cooking is cool and contemporary but any ‘bibi’ would recognise the flavours as typically Indian.

Speaking of bibis, if you’re thinking of taking yours, do request a table. The counter seating’s hip but too high for an older/stiffer/shorter person’s comfort. No Mayfair matriarch should have to suffer for her supper.

MEAL FOR TWO (with wine): £140 SIGNATURE DISHES: Orkney Scallop Nimbu Pani; Chettinad Chicken Livers, Yoghurt Meringues WHAT TO DRINK: Calamansi Gola

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Happy Hour Drink in the capital’s most seductive new bars, from their Art Deco aesthetics to Cuban-inspired cocktails W o r d s LU C I A N A B E L L I N I

The Painter’s Room at Claridge’s Brook Street, Mayfair, W1

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verything that Claridge’s does, it does with panache. Nowhere more so than its latest addition to the capital’s cocktail scene, the Painter’s Room, which joins the iconic Claridge’s Bar and timeless glamour of Fumoir as the hotel’s third bar.

Interior designer Bryan O’Sullivan (the man behind The Berkeley Bar and Terrace) has tapped into the hotel’s Art Deco aesthetic in this intimate space, paying homage to its former incarnation in the 1930s, when it was covered in murals by artist Mary Lea (hence the bar’s moniker too).

It’s now a vision in blush-pink onyx, centred around a statement bar carved out of stone. The murals have been replaced by whimsically

claridges.co.uk sketched characters in jaunty top hats dancing across the walls by artist Annie Morris, while her first-ever stainedglass piece takes centre stage. Her designs also appear on the menus and are monogrammed onto the team’s traditional painters’ jackets (it’s all about the details).

New Director of Mixology, Nathan McCarley O’Neill (formerly of the Nomad in New York, where he was named World’s Most Experimental Bartender), draws inspiration from the artistic haunts of Provence and Italy for his innovative cocktail list. Standout has to be the Saint Remy – a variation on a martini – which was inspired by Van Gogh’s Almond Blossom and is mixed with quince and apple.

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Soma

12-14 Denman Street, Soho, W1 somasoho.com

Bar La Rampa

7-8 Market Place, Fitzrovia, W1 barlarampa.com

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he spirit of 1950s Havana comes to London courtesy of Bar La Rampa, which has opened a stone’s throw from Oxford Circus. Named after Calle 23, one of the best-known streets in the vibrant Vedado region, this is a love letter to the rich heritage and colourful character of Cuba’s capital city but with a contemporary spin. Interiors are

by London-based studio A-nrd with the help of renowned Cuban-American architect Hermes Mallea. A dark wood and rattan bar is the focal point, while bold art, vintage pieces and tropical greenery add to the heady, retro vibe.

The drinks menu, unsurprisingly, centres around rum, and was designed by pioneering mixologist Marcis Dzelzainis (formerly at Sager + Wilde and Dandelyan). Drawing on drinks recipes that originated in Cuba, some as far back as pre-1900, Mojitos and Daiquiris are the main focus, including the Papa Doble, a modern take on Ernest Hemingway’s tipple of choice that adds grapefruit and maraschino to the mix, while the signature Mojito is perfection: Eminente Claro rum, lime, soda, mint and a dash of brown sugar on cubed ice (they never crush the ice here!). Cuban-infused live music nights add to the fiesta.

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hen Will Bowlby and Rik Campbell opened Kricket in a shipping container in Brixton in 2015, they set the Indian dining scene alight with their innovative small plates. Now they’re set to do the same to London’s cocktail scene with the launch of their first bar Soma.

Tucked under the original Kricket restaurant on Denman Street in Soho, it’s a modern take on the speakeasy, with minimalist interiors led by architecture studio Bureau Cake in collaboration with London interior designer Max Radford.

Le Magritte at The Beaumont 8 Balderton Street, Mayfair, W1 thebeaumont.com

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he Beaumont used the pandemic-enforced lockdown as an opportunity to call in New York-based designer Thierry Despont and London architects Reardon Smith to give the hotel a refresh, resulting in a relaunched restaurant and, more importantly, a new-look bar and terrace.

Le Magritte has been moved to a cosy spot off the lobby, and made over with interiors inspired by the exuberant, decadent American cocktail bars popular in 1920s London and Paris. Lined with rich Fiddleback Cherrywood, the focal point is the leather-edged ebony bar,

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A nine-metre-long bar takes pride of place, surrounded by a curtain that nods to the neighbourhood’s theatrical history.

The menu has been devised by Kricket’s Head of Beverage Will Rogers and Soma Bar Manager Angelos Bafas (formerly of Aqua Shard; ranking in the Top Five Bartenders in the world), offering cocktails with an Indian twist, such as the Chaat Margarita, made with Chaat Masala and gooseberry salt.

Tables will mostly be kept for walkins, and the bar will stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday.

behind which hangs the René Magritte painting Le Maitre d’École, after which the bar is named.

The intimate 30-guest space is run by newly appointed Bar Manager Antonino Lo Iacono (previously of Dukes and Mark’s Club in Mayfair), who serves up cocktails inspired by 1920s New York – think refashioned Old Fashioneds and New York Sours.

Alongside the bar sits the new terrace, its retro-style rattan chairs and tables hidden among lush greenery.

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FOUR SEASONS

Your Time, Your Place

Q U I N TA D O L A G O

For friends, family, or just you

rel axation, Sunshine and e very thing in bet ween Lu x u ry v il l a s w i t h pr i vat e s w i m m ing p o ol or J a c u z z i . C lu bho u se w i t h T w o r e s ta u r a n ts & Ba r . H e at e d ind o or & o u t d o or p o ol s . G ym . B o u t iq u e spa . Te nni s a nd a G ol f S hop F O U R S E A S O N S F A I R W A Y S

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Q U I N TA D O L A G O

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A L G A R V E

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P O RT U G A L

Winter offer (Nov '21 – Mar '22): Seven nights in a two or three-bed villa or apartment with swimming pool or Jacuzzi ranging from (*) £1050 to £1300 on self-catering basis depending on travel dates. For more information and offers visit fourseasonsfairways.com/en/special-offers Avenida André Jordan 37 | Quinta do Lago | Algarve | Portugal | Tel: +351 289 357 667 | www.fourseasonsfairways.com reservations@fairwaysdirect.com @fourseasonsfairways *Subject to availability. Price correct at time of print – subject to exchange rate fluctuations.

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ANIMAL MAGIC Giraffe Manor in Nairobi, Kenya, is as unforgettable as it is magical, thanks to the friendly herd of Rothschild giraffes that call the boutique hotel home. The Retreat is a new addition to this forested sanctuary, with a café, rooftop garden, spa treatment rooms, and a cool, shady infinity pool where guests can swim under the watchful eye of these gentle giants. thesafaricollection.com

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Travel Notes

Revitalise in the British Virgin Islands, dream big in New York & switch off in Skye C o m p i l e d b y HARRIET COOPER

FRENCH FANCY While many properties in the South of France close their doors out of season, Coquillade Provence Resort & Spa in the Luberon welcomes guests year-round. Autumns can be balmy so it’s perfect for exploring the sun-dappled countryside on two wheels (the hotel offers guided bike tours) before soothing aching muscles in the spa. Oenophiles might be more tempted by the hotel’s new Wine Weekends offering tours, tastings and Provencal feasts. coquillade.fr

Escape Plan

PARADISE FOUND Set amidst ancient paddy fields and bamboo groves on a secluded peninsula in Vietnam, which overlooks a private stretch of silky white sand, it’s hard to imagine how one could improve on the luxury beachfront resort Bãi San Hô. And yet luxury hotel group Zannier have risen to the challenge with the addition of two Grand Bay Pool Villas to their newest property. Spacious interiors, oversized terraces and infinity plunge pools are just the beginning... zannierhotels.com TEE TIME

Make winter sun a reality in the Algarve, which has year-round balmy temperatures and, with Portugal in the same time zone as the UK, is jet lag-free. Stay at Four Seasons Fairways, a pretty whitewashed resort in Quinta do Lago, where villas come with a pool and superfast broadband. With pristine beaches and championship golf courses on the doorstep, where better to workation? fourseasonsfairways.com

HIGH LIFE

Manhattanites are counting down until the opening of Aman New York at the end of this year. Little wonder.

Set in the grandiose Crown Building on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 57th, it will be a luxurious affair with 83 rooms, restaurants, a jazz club, sweeping terrace bar and a threefloor Aman Spa. aman.com

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T R AV E L

COMFORT ZONE Hugging the craggy shores of Loch Na Dal on the Isle of Skye, the former hunting lodge-turned-hotel Kinloch Lodge has been welcoming visitors with roaring fires and an encyclopedic whisky menu for almost five decades.

To mark its 50th anniversary next year, a refresh is afoot from the menus to the rooms, with sustainability evermore a focus. kinloch-lodge.co.uk

SECRET ISLAND The Aerial is a new all-inclusive private island resort in the British Virgin Islands. With just five properties, accommodating around 30 guests, the pace of life here is sedate. Though don’t be fooled, behind the scenes, there’s a team of chefs, spa therapists, watersports instructors and concierges beavering away to ensure perfection. aerialbvi.com

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Wanderlust

Powder P L AY With its scenic slopes, ultra-luxe hotels and prestigious polo tournament, the Swiss mountain resort of St Moritz has long been the glitziest of Alpine destinations W o r d s GEORGIE LANE-GODFREY

“U

ndoubtedly St Moritz is the most chic resort in the world,” reported Vogue back in 1928, when the Swiss mountain town played host to the first ever winter Olympics. It’s a reputation that has endured. Heralded as the birthplace of Alpine snow sports, St Moritz is the most storied ski resort in Europe, sitting astride a fairy tale frozen lake, encircled by the snow-capped Engadin mountains. It is, in essence, an ultra-luxe winter playground. Immaculately clad skiers come here not only for the excellent skiing, but also the world-renowned Cresta Run, a natural toboggan track on which sleds can typically hit a death-defying 85mph.

They also come for another spectacular event – the Snow Polo World Cup, an annual tournament, which sees 25,000 spectators descend on the frozen Lake St Moritz to witness one of the most glamorous events in polo’s sporting calendar. While the first polo tournament on snow took place here in 1985 in a blizzard, snow polo has since been adopted around the world. And yet the St Moritz tournament remains the most prestigious, fetching the highest prize money and attracting the most elite players.

In the lead up to the competition, an endless stream of private jets descends onto St Moritz’s runway, bringing wealthy weekenders in for the matches. Amongst them are the ponies, who are flown in a few days early to adjust to the altitude (St Moritz is 1,820 metres above sea level), along with their perennially bronzed riders.

The event ensures St Moritz retains its stylish crown. Indeed, a quick glance around the VIP confirms it - an abundance of Chanel and Moncler ski gear swirls amidst a sea of Champagne. When I visited in January last year (and the world had yet to be shaken by a global pandemic) it was a lesson in decadence. And, while the Polo 72

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World Cup is going ahead this season, like most international events, it’s likely to be a more subdued affair.

But that doesn’t mean there isn’t still plenty of flair to be found each winter in this stylish resort, especially for those staying at Suvretta House, the five-star hillside hotel and grande dame of St Moritz’s accommodation. I pulled up at its doors in a racing-green vintage Ford van that was sent to collect me from the station (I’d taken the train from Zurich airport) - a vehicle with a distinctly Wes Anderson vibe that sets the tone for the hotel.

Built in 1911 by pioneering hotelier Anton Sebastian Bon, Suvretta House is a love letter to old-school glamour.

With its whimsical turrets and sunny outdoor terrace complete with fluffy sheepskin on the chairs, the hotel feels like a refined country club that grandparents would bring their family to as a treat – cosy enough to feel welcoming, yet undoubtedly an extravagance. Downstairs is cavernous yet comfortable, with polished oak panelling and huge armchairs, from which you get a perfect vantage point out through the triple-height windows swathed in heavy velvet curtains onto the majestic mountains beyond.

I take up residence in just such a spot for afternoon tea next to a Balenciagaclad mother and her adult son. The two of them are marvelling at the haul their personal shopper has procured for them at St Moritz’s boutiques - a mixture of Bond Street brands, designer athleisure emporiums and carefully curated concept stores. “You got me at Koenig chocolates!” swoons the mother. “We didn’t have time to get any last year!”

Like many of the guests, these two are regulars and are greeted by white-gloved staff like family. It’s easy to see why you’d return. As well as the flawless service, the expansive spa is exceptional. Holistic treatments in The Swiss CellSpa Experience use Cellcosmet and Ilā, covering off everything from vitality massages to anti-ageing facials.

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long Kundalini Back Treatment was a gentle, nurturing massage designed to activate my chakras and realign my body’s rhythm and balance. It’s as soothing mentally as it is physically after a full day's skiing.

With a spa this luxuriously expansive, you could easily justify a stay at Suvretta for a weekend dedicated to pampering alone. But since the hotel is practically ski-in, ski out (a lift takes you directly to the slopes), and even offers its own private nursery slope for beginners, you’d be hard pressed to resist the call of the mountain. What’s more, Suvretta also has its own extensive private ski hire shop, packed not only with an impressive range of kit, but also an army of infinitely patient

instructors and guides to help you navigate the slopes.

As for St Moritz itself, the 350 kilometres of pistes are perfect for beginners and intermediates, with plenty of wide, enticing slopes for cruising around from sunny terrace to

terrace. The highlight of these is the slick, glass structure of Audi’s Quattro Bar, which sits in a conveniently alluring spot next to Corviglia station.

After all, St Moritz is equally as geared towards leisurely lunchers as it is to hardcore powder bunnies.

The Quattro Bar is where we end up at the end of our snow-based sightseeing tour, courtesy of our Suvretta guide, Zuppi. As well as navigating the resort’s slopes, we take in the breathtaking views down to the lake, and we also ski past St Moritz’s most expensive house – a seven-floor mansion featuring 35ft floor-to-ceiling windows, a subterranean pool lit by Swarovski crystal lights and a spa, said to be worth an eye-watering £134m.

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LOOK CHIC ON THE SLOPES

The

Ski Edit

While it would be easy to write off the resort as a bit flashy and full of itself, the overriding feeling is one of elegant, bygone glamour. After all, historic Suvretta has welcomed the likes of Evita Perón, Jackie and John F. Kennedy and the Shah of Persia through its doors. This vibe is perfectly captured at the Grand Restaurant – the hotel’s main dining space with its soft lighting, grandiose carved oak columns and elaborate ceiling. Here, it’s quintessential silver service all the way, with penguinsuited waiters pushing around rickety cheese-trolleys laden with fulsome fromage. The crowd here are older, enticed equally by the classic French fine dining experience (men are

required to wear a suit and tie) as by the food itself. On the menu you’ll find caviar rock lobster salads and truffle risotto – the kind of dishes that hold their own in a resort where one in ten of the restaurants has a world-class rating.

Downstairs, Suvretta Stube is a different story. It’s the place to come for traditional fondue and raclette, served in a relaxed and unpretentious atmosphere. Here diners dress down and eat up, as serving after serving of cheese appears. It’s the kind of fare that lends itself to gluttony, making the seat in the old-fashioned elevator up to the rooms even more welcome. Suites here, are palatial, complete with sumptuous interiors and picture-postcard panoramas. Mine looks out across the fir canopy towards the snow-capped peaks. No wonder then that the hotel’s name means ‘house above the woods’ – Suvretta’s elevated location is matched only by its equally elevated sense of style.

The 2022 Snow Polo World Cup will take place 28 – 30 January 2022; snowpolo-stmoritz.com.

Rates at Suvretta House start from CHF 630 (approx. £500) per night in a Double Room on a half-board basis (breakfast and dinner); suvrettahouse.ch SWISS flies regularly from the UK to Zurich, Geneva or Sion (seasonal) with one-way fares starting from £74; swiss.com For more information visit myswitzerland.com

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FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: BALENCIAGA Ski Cat Sunglasses, £295, flannels.com PRADA SNOW Geometric Jumpsuit, £1,450, selfridges.com BOGNER Lizzy Ski Jacket, £1,500, bogner.com FACTION x PRADA Prodigy 3.0 Skis, £3,000, selfridges.com CHLOÉ x FUSALP Ski Pants, £750, net-a-porter.com MIU MIU Quilted Trousers, £930, mytheresa.com PERFECT MOMENT Ski Intarsia Jumper, £239, farfetch.com MOONBOOT Icon Pillow Boots, £160, moonboot.com FALKE Stretch-Knit Socks, £36, falke.com KASK Shadow Ski Helmet, £365, net-a-poter.com MONCLER GRENOBLE Ski Gloves, £370, matchesfashion.com

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Mondrian Shoreditch

45 Curtain Road, Shoreditch, EC2

S

WATCH THIS SPACE From the arrival of the capital’s first super boutique to the metamorphosis of a townhouse in SW1, the new breed of London hotel is as design-forward as it is deeply luxurious Wo r d s HARRIET COOPER

sbe.com

ummer heralded the much-anticipated unveiling of Mondrian Shoreditch, marking the slick brand’s return to London. The 120-room property is on the site of the former The Curtain hotel and has been completely overhauled

by London-based interior design studio Goddard Littlefair (who you’ll likely know from previous projects including the Mayfair Townhouse, the Biltmore and Gleneagles).

In keeping with the Mondrian ethos, the decor throughout is imaginative and seductive. The soaring double-height bar and café Christina’s Shoreditch, with its large-scale Fred Coppin mural on the exposed concrete walls and polished copper bar, has already become something of an artsy EC2 institution, serving reimagined classics such as the Negroni and the Spritz using British artisanal producers.

BiBo – a convivial bar and all-day restaurant – is Michelin-starred Andalucian chef Dani García’s first London outpost.

Here, light oak floors, rattan lights and handmade tiles create a warm, welcoming atmosphere, while the kitchen sends out plates of Croquetas de Jamón Ibérico, Chorizo Brioche and Gambas al Ajillo.

Sitting at the bar and watching the chefs make tapas or in the courtyard with its hanging plants feels a world away from the hustle and bustle of east London.

The Curtain Members’ Club welcomes forward-thinking members to its beautifully revamped Rose Bar and Lounge, 24-hour gym and Design Studio, a co-working space designed to harbour flair and creativity. But it’s the rooftop restaurant and bar Altitude that is the scenestealer; open to hotel guests for breakfast, members have exclusive run of the lightfestooned swimming pool, alfresco terraces and chef Joost Bijster’s menu after that.

Rooms start from £299 per night, inclusive of breakfast

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The Londoner

38 Leicester Square, West End, WC2

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thelondoner.com

onstruction started on The Londoner back in 2015 but it has been oh-so-worth the wait. The 16-storey, 350-room, 35-suite self-styled super boutique hotel opened in September, dazzling all who walked through the doors with its sheer scale and fastidious detail.

We have interior design duo Yabu Pushelberg to thank for the space (they’re behind New York’s Edition Hotel, Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, Gwyneth’s Goop popup…), who have drawn on the art of performance as their inspiration.

Theatricality comes through in everything from the striking furnishings to the expertly curated art collection, which includes pieces by Antony Gormley and Idris Khan. By comparison, guest rooms are pared back with a more neutral palette, designed for relaxation rather than revelry.

As you’d expect from this behemoth, dining options are many,

whether Champagne breakfast at the Stage, Mediterranean classics at Whitcomb’s (the grilled lobster with cognac and black truffle already has quite the following), or one of Head Mixologist Pierpaolo Schirru’s gin and tonics at Joshua’s Tavern. For sundowners, sashimi and Soho vistas, ascend to the rooftop izakaya lounge 8 at the Londoner, with its Japaneseinspired terrace and Shima Garden.

There’s also a members clubstyle private area for guests, The Residence, an expansive ballroom, and a 1,000-seater cinema, which seems fitting considering its West End location. Slap bang in the centre of town it may be, but you’d never guess in the subterranean Retreat Spa. Treatments include Omorovicza and Ilā, though it’s poolside you want to be where subtle LED light panels transport guests to sunnier climes.

Rooms start from £400 per night, inclusive of breakfast

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Carlton Tower

Pan Pacific

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80 Houndsditch, Bishopsgate, EC3

1 Cadogan Place, Knightsbridge, SW1

panpacific.com

jumeirah.com

abu Pushelberg has been busy. As well as creating interiors for the Londoner, the design firm has also worked on the newly opened Pan Pacific London near Liverpool Street – the latest property from the revered Singaporean hotel group.

Housed within the One Bishopsgate Plaza development, the vibe here is more understated luxury – perhaps tapping into the hotel’s corporate clientele. Think curved walls, sleek furnishings and a neutral colour scheme, with the 237 rooms and suites designed as a sanctuary from the City below - welcome touches include Diptyque amenities and an innovative cooling system to aid optimal sleep via temperature regulation. All this, plus sweeping views of the capital’s most iconic landmarks including the Tower of London, Gherkin, St. Paul’s Cathedral and Canary Wharf.

Design-forward as ever, the hotel has dedicated

an entire floor to wellbeing, offering an 18.5 metre infinity pool, high-tech and high-performance equipment, holistic treatments and a comprehensive series of workshops on everything from mindfulness to nutrition.

Downstairs, it’s big and airy, with a string of Southeast Asianinfluenced eateries to choose from.

Will it be Singaporean-British fusion beneath En Viu’s botanical murals at Straits Kitchen, kopi tiaminspired afternoon tea by the grand dame of pastry Cherish Finden in the Orchid Lounge or a Singapore Sling in the dark and moody Ginger Lily bar? For the ultimate cocktails, the imminent arrival of the hotel’s destination bar in Devonshire House promises to be fabulous with Tom Dixon’s Design Research Studio at the helm.

W

hen the Carlton Tower Jumeirah reopens after an 18-month, £100million refurbishment, the most extensive transformation in its history, you sit up and take notice. It doesn’t disappoint. While the Knightsbridge hotel’s immaculate service and meticulous attention to detail is still very much in evidence, and indeed Dame Elisabeth Frink’s sculpture, which stands in the entrance, it would seem no corner of this 17-storey, 186-room hotel has been left unturned.

Design studio 1508 London (the Lanesborough Club, the Waterman…) has overseen the interiors, creating a refined, welcoming, airy space. Downstairs, the newly created double-height reception and lobby lounge have been designed to

Rooms start from £325 per night, room only

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Beaverbrook Townhouse

115 Sloane Street, Chelsea, SW1 beaverbrooktownhouse.co.uk mirror the clean architectural lines of a grand stately home with a huge abstract chandelier centre-stage.

The Chinoiserie, the hotel’s all-day dining area, still serves its acclaimed patisserie, but it’s now lighter and brighter, complementing lively restaurant Al Mare where head chef Marco Calenzo, formerly of Zuma and Four Seasons, oversees classic Italian dishes with a modern twist. In summer, the expansive terrace overlooking Cadogan Gardens will come into its own.

Guest rooms and suites are classicmodern, featuring textured wall panelling and sumptuous furnishings in British heritage hues of deep blue, green and maroon, and floor-to-ceiling marble bathrooms with amenities by Grown Alchemist. Ask for a room with a balcony (nearly half have one) for views down Sloane Street and beyond.

Even the most discerning guests will appreciate the reimagined Peak Fitness Club & Spa. It’s set across three floors, one of which houses the capital’s largest indoor swimming pool, bathed in natural light.

Poolside cabanas, new treatment rooms and a high-tech gym surely make this one of the most luxurious wellness destinations in town.

Rooms start from £540 per night, room only

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hose who have stayed at country house retreat Beaverbrook in Surrey, will be only too aware of the high standards guests can expect at the brand’s new Chelsea outpost, which has opened in conjunction with the Cadogan Estate. Set across two elegant Georgian townhouses on Sloane Street – the culmination of a restoration to the tune of £25million – the hotel’s location is unparalleled, overlooking Cadogan Gardens in this, the prettiest of neighbourhoods.

In keeping with the 1920s aesthetic at its rural sibling - once the country home of the colourful MP Lord Beaverbrook, where he entertained such illustrious guests as Elizabeth Taylor and Sir Winston Churchill – the townhouse’s dapper interiors reflect the tastes and predilections of the flamboyant host, drawing on the capital’s theatres and cultural landmarks, Art Deco and Japanese culture as inspiration.

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The result is a glorious mishmash of vibrant tiling and statement wallpapers, marbled collages and pineapple motifs, antique furniture and quirky curios – all giving off the vibe of an eclectic, gloriously eccentric private home. The 14 individually designed suites come with four-poster beds, personalised minibars, help-yourself whisky decanters and tea stations.

Downstairs there’s a snug, jewelcoloured library and the 60-cover Fuji Grill, its soft green interior the perfect setting for a series of 19th-century Japanese woodblock prints. Dine on wagyu, sushi, sashimi and nigiri, or for unforgettable, book Omakase Sushi Bar, seating just six. Aperitifs are to be drunk on one of the raspberrypink bar stools in the bar, with its lacquered walls and stained glass. For a playful ode to the bygone era of hospitality, this is it.

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Savanna Shell 119/4018 with Colour Box Velvet – Magenta F111/11043

HOME & INTERIORS

LIGHT SHOW Created by renowned Scandi design studio Space Copenhagen for fellow Danish brand Gubi, the Howard chandelier is a sleek, understated take on the usually extravagant decorative light. Delicate bone china shades perched at the end of six gunmetal brass arms create a warm, diffused glow that complements its industrial aesthetic.

Howard chandelier, £1,620 gubi.com

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Design Notes

Timeless furniture, avantgarde glassware & Soho Home comes to Chelsea C o m p i l e d b y A M Y M O O R E A WO N G

COLOUR PLAY

Narrating Italy’s archaeological and cultural traditions, the Bucket vases by Milan-based brand Stories of Italy echo the patterned terrazzo surfaces so iconic to the country.

Opaque white glass blown into experimental shapes; each is decorated with coloured glass shards fused to the exterior.

From £231 collectoworld.com

FLOOR SHOW

Like a ring of abstract roses, the Laki Oval rug by Italian creative Serena Confalonieri merges petal-like graphic shapes with sugary pastel tones, punctuated with flashes of monochrome. Hand knotted in wool and silk, the kaleidoscopic design is at once pretty and powerful.

From £1,125.12 per sq m illulian.com

Wish List

GLASS ACT Inspired by the silhouettes of bottles in modernist paintings, the elegant Raise carafe and glasses by design duo Broberg & Ridderstråle are expertly mouth blown, making each piece unique. Mix and match from a tonal palette of Ochre, Indigo and Clear.

Carafe £65; glasses from £45 for two muuto.com

LEAN BACK

Sink into the tactile boucle and sumptuous curves of Soho Home’s Ellis chair, which channels a 70s vibe. The brand’s AW21 collection is packed with rounded forms, luxurious materials and playful surprises – explore it at the new Soho Home Studio on the King’s Road. £1,650 sohohome.com

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HOME & INTERIORS

HIGH GLOSS Inject some brilliance into the home with high gloss furniture and accessories that will bring a gleaming playfulness to any interior. e lacquer-like shine creates a mirrorlike radiance, bouncing light around the room – the last word in lustrous.

TAKE A SEAT

Stately, simple and stylish, the rago dining chair by Danish brand Bolia has been designed to support the natural contours of the body – the seat slightly curved and the backrest at just the right angle. Skilfully crafted in black lacquered ash, the design is available with or without the rounded arms – a timeless example of fine carpentry.

From £537 bolia.com

FROM TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: TOM DIXON Void Pendant Light, £240, tomdixon.net B&B ITALIA Allure O’ Table, from £4,810, chaplins.co.uk FRITZ HANSEN, Carimate Armchair, from £1,008, fritzhansen.com ANNA + NINA Long Blunt Twisted Candle, £20, selfridges.com RO COLLECTION No 66 Oval Vase, £47, amara.com VANRENEN GW DESIGNS Drinks Trolley, £1,898, vanrenengwdesigns.com LYNGBY PORCELAIN Rhombe Colour Serving Bowl, £78, skandium.com VERPAN Pantop Table Lamp, £186, twentytwentyone.com BROSTE COPENHAGEN Nordic Coal Teaspoon, £6.50, nordicnest.com 1ST LONDON Porcelain Forest Green Cereal Bowl, £22, heals.com HELLE MARDAHL, Bon Bon Pendant Lamp, £1,525, libertylondon.com EDITION 94 Swirl Candles, £7.50 each, theedition94.com BLOMUS Sablo Desert Plate, £15.20, royaldesign.co.uk FALCON Enamelware Mug, 11, falconenamelware.com

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ARTIST IN RESIDENCE Admired for her pared-back aesthetic and timeless approach, Rose Uniacke is one of the most soughtafter interior designers in the capital. Now, she’s adding to her repertoire with the launch of a new book, debut paint collection and the opening of her second Pimlico showroom Wo r d s HARRIET COOPER P o r t r a i t JA K E C U RT I S I n t e r i o r P h o t o g r a p h y FRANCOIS HALARD

R

ose Uniacke’s fascination with design can be traced back to her childhood in Oxfordshire, where her parents had added a modern extension to the 17thcentury almshouse they called home.

It was this unexpected amalgamation of old and new – or as Uniacke puts it, “the simple shift from one mood to another” – which was to shape her signature aesthetic from there on.

Indeed, her ability to add a contemporary twist to the historic is one of her defining characteristics as an interior designer – a role in which she is highly revered for her refined, balanced, serene style (she cites the Chilean modernist muse Eugiana Errázuriz as an inspiration).

Famously discreet, Uniacke won’t divulge her private clients, though

it is widely documented that she was responsible for the multimillion-pound renovation of the Beckhams’ home in Holland Park, as well as reimagining The Crown’s Peter Morgan’s Battersea abode and the Marquess of Bute’s impressive Gothic pile Mount Stuart in Scotland.

Commercial projects include the transformation of a Regency townhouse in Marylebone into the Jo Malone flagship HQ, now a vision of understated luxury.

Perhaps her most remarkable undertaking, however, is her own London house. An exceptionally large 19th-century former artist’s residence in Pimlico, it once belonged to portraitist James Rannie Swinton before becoming the Grosvenor School of Modern Art until 1940. Uniacke has now renovated it into a family home, where she lives with her film-producer husband David Heyman.

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Despite being one of London’s most desirable interior designers, Uniacke’s background originally lies in furniture restoration and antiques. After a spell working in a furniture restoration studio in Chelsea, where she learnt to gild, paint and lacquer, she moved to France with her young family (she has five children), where she honed her eye, sourcing antiques to sell in her mother’s shop, the antiques dealer Hilary Batstone.

After returning to London and setting up a small interior design business in the basement, a loyal clientele swiftly followed, and Uniacke opened her eponymous antiques shop and gallery in Belgravia in 2009. “I opened the shop in order to show antiques and collectible furniture, but in an open, modern way – with clean space to allow things to breathe and to be seen,” she explains.

Rose Uniacke Editions – a curated edit of exquisitely crafted furniture, lighting and accessories – and her Fabric Collection, a range of custom-dyed fabrics made using almost entirely natural fibres and sustainable production methods, have unsurprisingly proved popular. This autumn, Uniacke throws open the doors to her second showroom on the Pimlico Road, selling her textiles, alongside table, kitchen and bed linen.

It’s here that Uniacke devotees will also be able to purchase her debut line of paints, which are made from vegetable resins, ecological materials and, some of them, pure lime, which absorbs CO². “I have long mixed my own bespoke paints for the projects I design and so it made sense to share some of these colours,” explains Uniacke. “I wanted to do this in an environmentally conscious way, and so creating a range that’s 100 percent natural and chemical-free was a priority from the outset.”

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In an extract from her new book, Rose Uniacke offers a tour of her Pimlico house and shares how she re-imagined the cavernous 19th-century artist’s studio to create an elegant, light-filled family home

T

ypically, in a nineteenthcentury house of this stature, the details – elaborate friezes, cornicing, mouldings – would have been highlighted. It’s likely they would have been painted in contrasting colours, and the ceilings gilded or painted pale to raise them. All would have been richly adorned – in order to be seen and, liter­ally, to decorate. I wanted to restore the detail and also give it a new expression and a fresh flavour.

One colour throughout each room with no contrasts frees you to enjoy the detail and the architectural shape with just the play of light and shadow. There is movement and patina naturally, and a dry, chalky feeling. Each room is one complete box of col­our. We layered thin washes of distemper over the original stripped walls until the feeling was right, so that the house offers again an unobtrusive beauty – an invitation. Just as it did when it was the Grosvenor School.

The furniture must invite, too. It’s important to bear this in mind early on.

I like to work out where the heart of a room will be, and how it will flow, so furniture thoughts come early. In terms of style, it should be interesting in some way, and in order to root the house, some of the pieces would need to reflect the place and period. So it made sense to start with English furniture of the 19th century.

I favoured plain, with a simple beauty.

Once the house was moored in this way, I would be able to steer a more eclectic path, and I hoped the combination would be exciting. Furniture was to be used only where it was needed, where it would allow the space to breathe.

As important as the furniture was the art. This house was, after all, built for art. It has been both made and shown here since the beginning. The rooms

were made for it. I wanted works that were arresting, full of feeling but not overwhelming. A human touch.

But as much as I wanted to highlight its architectural merits and its relationship with art, it was also important that the house was a home that could really be used, not just looked at. I have never been interested in the overly precious or self­ consciously designed. I am interested in how life works in a space-the energy of it, and how it makes you feel. Is it adaptable?

Can it stimulate, relax? Can you breathe, can you think? Can you do the things you want to do – does the space encourage you? I wasn’t interested in an art gallery or a museum of furniture that couldn’t be touched and enjoyed. But I also love elegance. I am alive to the challenge of how all these things can combine.

This is an extract from ‘Rose Uniacke at Home’ by Rose Uniacke with a foreword

by Alice Rawsthorn, published in October (Rizzoli, £150)

KITCHEN ^

“Originally I designed this room around an 18th-century painted breakfront cabinet that filled the wall. This kitchen came five years later, taking out the central island in favour of a small breakfast table.

The original Syrie Mangham cone lights from the 1930s inspired the ones we make in the shop. I love the imbalance of them - one is hung slightly higher than the other. An abstract painting by Ryan Sullivan takes centre stage and gives a colourful energy to the room and allows it to feel less like a kitchen”

WINTER GARDEN >

“Vincent [Van Duysen, the architect] had the great idea of turning Swinton’s portrait gallery into an indoor garden.

After the original domed roof was bombed in World War II it was replaced in the 1970s by a white, heavy, boxy thing. I loved the idea of making the gallery into a garden room – a winter garden – but it was very challenging and took time to evolve”

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DINING ROOM “The informal dining table was made from an original draper’s model. And the Kaare Klint chairs were made in the 1930-early period of Klint when he was looking back at Georgian makers. The columns have been left raw - the original strip exposed.

Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Nets (2000) above the dining table is such a strong force. I find it beautiful in its mesmerising quality.

It feels uplifting, calming, unpretentious, and has the strength to hold the room”

THE STUDY

“This was the ballroom in Swinton’s original house. The volume is immense and absorbs colour, so sunshine yellow doesn’t take over. The Poul Henningsen copper-shaded lamp on the desk stands out stylistically. The two ebonised chairs and the octagonal partners’ desk, which reflects the shape of the room, are from the Regency period. The Sarah Lucas self portrait balances the window and frees the fireplace from having to hold the room completely” 88

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HALL

“Within the hall wall supporting the stair, we were fortunate to find a fragment of stone, proving that there had once been a significant stone staircase there. So we were able to get permission to reinstate it. I looked all over London for examples of period cantilevered stone staircases as we started the research – sometimes even craning my neck to look through other people’s hall windows’’ T H EG LOSSA RY M AGA Z I N E .C O M / H O M E S

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GINORI 1735

La Compagnia di Caterina Collection, from £125

This may be the Italian porcelain company’s first home fragrance line, but it’s steeped in history. The famed brand, which was founded in the 18th century, has partnered with designer Luca Nichetto, who took inspiration from the brand’s Florentine roots and one of its most notable residents, Caterina De’ Medici. The collection of candles, incense burners and diff users are inspired by different members of her entourage, from the lover to the friar, with each represented by three heady fragrances: citruspacked Orange Renaissance, floral Purple Hill, and spicy Black Stone.

ginori1735.com

Scents of Place

Transform your space into a serene and soothing retreat with this season’s stylish home fragrances

TOM DIXON

Fog Incense Giftset, £40

Avant-garde designer Tom Dixon has always been an innovator in the home space. Now, the interiors expert is tapping into the world of incense with his handcrafted brass vessels that gently disperse the fragrance throughout the home, combining ancient practices with Dixon’s contemporary style. The studio has reimagined their popular Royalty fragrance as an incense cone for the vessel, offering a complex floral scent of bergamot, lemon, Earl Grey tea, verbena and cedarwood.

tomdixon.net

ACQUA DI PARMA X POLTRONA FRAU Smart Home Diffuser, £700

Two Italian powerhouses have teamed up to transform the humble scent diff user into a chic new incarnation. Combining Poltrona Frau’s contemporary design know-how with Acqua di Parma’s beloved scents, the result is a fully customisable smart diff user for the home and car, which comes with elegant leather covers in a range of colours – from rich claret red to buttery sunshine yellow – and nine different fragrances to choose from.

acquadiparma.com

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LEE BROOM

Sculptural Candle, £180

This new sculptural candle from British lighting designer Lee Broom is an objet d’art in its own right, made up of a polished aluminium vessel, finished in either gunmetal or gold, that is suspended from a crystal block.

Two fragrances are available: On Reflection is an uplifting scent of citrus, lavender and woody notes, while Self Portrait is a soothing blend of fresh linen, violet and warm amber. Hand-poured in the UK, the natural soy wax candle can be replaced with a new refill once it’s burned through.

leebroom.com

FLORAL STREET

Home Fragrance Collection, from £28 The vegan, cruelty-free British fragrance brand has launched a carefully curated new range of home scents, available as diffusers and candles. The four new moodboosting collections are inspired by the scents of freshly cut flowers - Urban Bloom, Night Bloom, White Florals, Rose Garden.

In keeping with Floral Street’s strong sustainable ethos, the entire collection is free from dyes, parabens and alcohol. The candles are soy and rapeseed wax-based with natural cotton wicks, hand-poured in the UK, while the diffusers are available in refillable glass bottles.

floralstreet.com

ELM RD

Wellness and Wanderlust Collections, from £30

British artisan fragrance house Elm Rd is on a mission to create kind, sustainable products, as reflected in their newest collections: Wellness and Wanderlust. With botanical alchemy at its core, their Wellness candles and diffusers explore the relationship between fragrance and wellbeing, while their Wanderlust line taps into the connection between scent, imagination and memory. Housed in handmade borosilicate glass bottles, all their boxes are 100% biodegradable and fully plantable, packed with seeds to grow your own mustard flowers.

elmrd.com

CELINE

Haute Parfumerie Candle Collection, £75 each

French fashion house Celine is adding to the success of its haute parfumerie with its first candle collection. The six candles (two more will be launched in 2022) are based around artistic director Hedi Slimane’s olfactory journal, made up of scents that he finds nostalgic or holds dear, from his early days as a couturier to his Parisian apartment.

celine.com

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Wonder

WALLS Wallpaper aficionado and pattern fanatic, INTERIORS influencer Laura Hunter talks personal style, sourcing VINTAGE furniture and why she looks to offbeat for INSPIRATION W o r d s LU C I A N A B E L L I N I

“G

rowing up, Morris & Co wallpaper was the aspirational thing – if you went to someone’s house and they had it on the wall, you knew they’d made it.” By her own estimation, Laura Hunter has most definitely made it.

I’m chatting to the interiors tastemaker over the phone from her Henley home – where she lives with her husband and two children – which is an ode to patterned wallpaper, including – naturally – three rooms decked out in William Morris’s instantly recognisable floral designs.

Describing her style as “Jamaican nan cottagecore”, the maximalist wallpaper lover, who runs her own educational company by day, has created a look all of her own, which has amassed her a loyal following on social media for her Instagram account @NoFeatureWalls, where she chronicles her latest wallpaper discoveries and antique-fair finds at her Oxfordshire abode, where she’s lived since September 2019. She attributes her unique interiors style to her grandmothers on both sides, as well as her mother’s taste in Hunter’s childhood home in north London. “Wallpaper was always around when I was growing up, which had a huge influence on me, but everyone in my family had very different styles,” says Hunter. “My nan was British, and she

adopted my mum [in the 1950s] – she had quite a traditional English taste – there was a lot of Laura Ashley going on.

And then my father’s mum was from Jamaica and came here as part of the Windrush generation – she had more of an eclectic Abigail’s Party kind of style, with lots of colours and swirls. My mum always had whatever was fashionable at the time, so in the Eighties and Nineties that was bold primary colours and geometric styles. I guess somewhere between all of those three would be my taste in terms of wallpaper.”

While Morris & Co may have been her first port of call when it came to decorating her current home, with its soothing green ‘Blackthorn’ covering the master bedroom and its whimsical ‘Strawberry Thief’ in the

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HOME & INTERIORS

spare room, it is by no means the only brand in the house. A recent addition includes the elegant redscrolling frond Soane wallpaper based on early 19th-century French chintz in the study. “That’s my favourite in the whole house.”

As for her furniture, that’s a cheerful mish-mash of hunteddown antiques and contemporary picks from Heal’s, Liberty London, Anthropologie and Danish design company Hay. “I do love antiques, but I like to live in the now – if you go too far with a vintage theme, it can look like you’re living in a set.”

Anthropologie is also where she often finds her signature printed floral dresses (other favourite fashion labels include Brock Collection, Lug Von Siga and Sézane).

Her number-one place for antiques is the Sunbury & Sandown market at Kempton Park Racecourse, which is

held on the second and last Tuesday of every month. “If you take a van, you will come back fully loaded with stuff, and it’s all different price points, from car-boot level to really high-end antiques. The only thing is you have to get there super early – by 7.15am all the decent stuff is gone.”

In terms of inspiration, she’s drawn to the offbeat English styles of Luke Edward Hall and Ben Pentreath, and admires Sophie Robinson for her use of pattern and colour, but admits she doesn’t like to follow other interior designers too closely for fear of losing her own sense of originality. Instead, she prefers a more unconventional approach to tackling interiors. “For me, I’ll think of people whose style I like and take it from there. Like A$AP Rocky and Rihanna – what would their house be like? Could I see them on that sofa? That’s my thought process.”

Laura Hunter’s Tips on Palettes & Patterns How to transform and elevate your walls

Start small If you’re new to wallpaper, I’d recommend starting with a smaller space, like a downstairs loo or a guest bedroom that you don’t go into very often, as you can be a bit more experimental.

Go for larger-scale patterns or slightly less bold colours at first – or look at texture instead.

I’m really interested in textured wallpaper, like a grass cloth or hand-woven wallpaper – you can get the same added depth you would from a pattern, without completely enveloping the entire room.

Choose timeless prints I can’t bear it when people put things in their home just because it’s on trend. If you’re doing something big and bold like wallpapering an entire room, it needs to be something that you love. Some of the Morris & Co designs I have on my walls are 100 years old, so it doesn’t date. As long as the wallpaper you choose is good quality and it’s been hung correctly – and you don’t mind doing a bit of spot repair every now and then – it should be able to stay up for years.

Toughen things up with darker colours I would say I’m quite a girly person – I like traditionally feminine things like sewing and flowers and dressing the house.

But I knew I didn’t want the house to be too sweet and twee, which could happen with pretty pastel colours. That’s why I don’t have any of those in the house.

Most of the florals I have are autumnal colours – reds, greens, dark blues. So even though I may use a lot of florals, they have a moody edge.

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HOME & INTERIORS

Colefax & Fowler Bowood, £68 per metre/roll designs.colefax.com

Osborne and Little Fullerton, £230 per roll osborneandlittle.com

Lucy Tiffney New Meadow, £165 per roll lucytiffney.shop

Power

PRINTS From BOLD botanicals to RETRO blooms, Laura Hunter shares her favourite floral WALLPAPERS

Liberty Poppy Meadowfield, £170 per roll libertylondon.com

Archive by Sanderson Hyacinth, £115 per roll sandersondesigngroup.com

Soane Karun Thakar Arabesque, £150 per roll soane.co.uk

Morris & Co Willow Bough, £79 per roll sandersondesigngroup.com

Papier Francais Grappa Nera, Made to measure papierfrancais.com Cole & Son Rose, £115 per roll cole-and-son.com

Little Greene Massingberd Blossom, £97 per roll littlegreene.com

Divine Savages Rozalia ‘Vintage Blanche’, £150 per roll divinesavages.com Common Room Twin Flower by Fee Greening, £156 per roll commonroom.co

Timorous Beasties Bloomsbury Garden, £320 per roll timorousbeasties.com

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L A S T WO R D

Maya Jama

MY GLOSSARY Television and radio presenter Maya Jama opens her little black book to the capital, from cabaret clubs to contemporary art

HOME IS I live just a stone’s throw from Battersea Park in southwest London, which is lovely on a sunny day, as is Wandsworth Park for walks along the riverside with its houseboats. Real home will always be Bristol though.

SEXY FISH

FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS Going to Sexy Fish in Mayfair is such a treat. The food is delicious and their Champagne cocktails are so good. I also love Laylow on Golborne Road – there’s always something going on in the members’ area.

I’d like to say I order something fancy but, embarrassingly, it's normally a burger.

SIGNATURE COCKTAIL Rum and Coke always has been, always will be, my tipple of choice.

It’s the drink my friends and I would have back in the day as the start of a good night out. Now I go to Gold on Portobello Road - they do a mean Rum and Coke.

BEST PUB The Prince on Lillie Road in Fulham is my go-to. No matter what day it is, the drinks are always flowing, and everyone is having a good time, plus there’s a massive garden filled with colourful lights.

CHILTERN FIREHOUSE

TOP HOTELS The rooms at the Mandrake in Fitzrovia are quirky and individual, and the outdoor terrace bar and cabanas are great during the summer. Chiltern Firehouse Marylebone also has a stunning outside area complete with a fireplace perfect for autumn; I cosy up there on a Sunday with a hot chocolate.

GO-TO FASHION DESIGNERS Burberry’s iconic trench coat is one of my most cherished pieces and I love the AW21 collection palette of warm beige and cream. I wore Azzi & Osta to the NTAs, which felt amazing. One of my favourite emerging designers is Embi Studios – their pieces are insane.

FAVOURITE FASHION STORE Selfridges is PLACE great for its TO DANCE pop-ups. I The Box in recently went Soho is so much to a south fun. You aren’t London Makers allowed to use your Market’s popTHE BOX phone, so everyone up that was part SOHO is just in the moment, of Selfridges’ Good enjoying themselves, and the Nature project, centring shows are extraordinary. It on sustainability. I have also brilliantly captures all that Soho discovered the online concept has to offer. store Auné - the designs are one-of-a-kind.

BEST MUSIC VENUE Exhibition London is a beautifully I’VE CURRENTLY GOT MY restored historic building in EYE ON the heart of the West City and The Supreme/Yashica MF-1 Westfield development. One of Camera is at the top of my most unforgettable nights my shopping there was when I hosted an list. I am never event on International Women’s without a Day with performances by disposable some of the most iconic female camera, so I'm musicians of our time, such as excited by this collab. I love Anne-Marie, Mahalia and New York DJs Coco & Breezy. capturing memories, FAVOURITE GALLERY no matter I’m a rookie when it comes where I am to the art world, but I’ve or what always found contemporary I’m doing. art fascinating. I remember going to a VR ESSENTIAL installation at the BEAUTY SALONS Saatchi Gallery in I go to Gazelli Chelsea, called We House on Walton Live In An Ocean Street in Chelsea Of Air,, which was a for the Hypnomind surreal experience.

Massage, which combines flowing INTERIORS SHOP techniques and OF CHOICE deep pressures Rachel & Malika’s with meditation. in Brixton Village is I always leave great for handmade recharged. For West African crafts. facials, I see Shane I'm into statement Cooper, whose pieces, like the clinic is in South embroidered Kensington - he cushions I just curates the best bought to spruce bespoke treatments up my sofa. for my skin.

GAZELLI HOUSE

TOP BEAUTY TREATMENT I’m a face mask addict. When I couldn’t find what I wanted, I developed MIJ Masks. I use the Bio-Cellulose Face Mask if my skin is feeling dry, and the Hydrogel Eye Patches when I’ve been working long hours. A new favourite is the Hydrogel Eye Patches 003, which are perfect for brightening my eye area before an event.

LONDON LANDMARK One of my favourite feelings is travelling in from Bristol on the M4 and pulling into Earl’s Court. It always brings a feeling of excitement. As a teenager there was a sense of adventure, and it was the start of chasing my dreams.

MIJ Masks by Maya are available at mijmasks.com

SAATCHI GALLERY

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