The Glossary Autumn 2018 by Neighbourhood Media

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ISSUE SIX AUTU M N 2018 £5 WHERE SOLD

YOU R LO N DO N ST YLE GU I D E

The

ARTS & STYLE ISSUE The women leading the way

FEATURING: Val Garland on BEAUTY

Jo Stella-Sawicka on ART, Alice Temperley on FASHION Angela Hartnett on FOOD, Anna Jones on BUSINESS, Gizzi Erskine’s LONDON COVER 9.indd 2

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CONTENTS I

S U

S I

The Arts & Culture Issue

Arts & Culture 13 AGENDA

Dates for your diary this season

22 THE FEMALE GAZE

Frieze comes to town and presents ‘Social Work’, a celebration of feminist artists

26 THE FUTURE IS ALLBRIGHT

Anna Jones of The AllBright tells us why women must have a club of their own

Style

34 FASHION NOTES

The designers and trends on our radar

36 ALICE’S WONDERLAND

Alice Temperley explains how her latest collection is about creating something real

40 THE AUTUMN EDIT

Meet your new season investment pieces

44 MATCHES MADE IN HEAVEN 5 Carlos Place is set to be the most laid-back yet luxurious shopping destination in London

46 FUTURE CLASSICS

Prada’s new collection takes a futuristic turn

55 THE DARKEST HOUR

Noir tones are taking over timepieces this season - meet the black list

Beauty & Wellness 58 BEAUTY NOTES

The latest news and products

62 THE IMAGE MAKER

Val Garland’s new book reveals the moments behind the make-up

67 SKIN SAVIOURS

Nourish and protect with these hydration heroes

68 SCENTS OF STYLE

Update your scent wardrobe with this season’s new releases

71 WELLNESS NOTES

The latest news and openings

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The YOUR LONDON STYLE GUIDE

Food & Drink 74 TASTING NOTES

100

Where to eat and what to drink

76 THE QUEEN OF MAYFAIR

Angela Hartnett on throwing a series of showstopping suppers with Britain’s star chefs

80 RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Food writer Hilary Armstrong finds the best tables in the city

Travel

86 TRAVEL NOTES

Global destinations

88 WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE

Lizzie Pook takes us on a trip to remote South Tanzania for a safari to remember

Home & Interiors

94 DESIGN NOTES

Inspirations from the world of interiors

96 THE BOLD & THE BEAUTIFUL

How animal prints, strong colours and bold patterns can bring back the happy home

100 THE GREAT DANE

Celebrating the pioneering designer, Verner Panton’s psychedelic work – and equally colourful personality

Last Word

104 MY GLOSSARY

Gizzi Erskine’s little black book of the capital

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Image: Drawing by Ronan Bouroullec.

London Regent’s Park 4–7 October 2018

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GLOSSARY W E L C O M E

T O

T H E

S THE WEATHER TURNS INWARDS, AUTUMN BECOMES THE PERFECT SEASON FOR OBSERVATION AND CONTEMPLATION, so for this issue we are musing on art and style – both areas in which London truly excels. The undisputed highlight of the season? Frieze London, of course. As the fair transforms Regent’s Park into the epicentre of the art world for the 16th year, we hear first hand from artistic director Jo Stella-Sawicka about Frieze’s fresh line-up of 160 galleries and this year’s feminist theme: ‘Social Work’. Chosen to coincide with the centenary of women’s suffrage in the UK, for the first time a panel of 11 leading female art historians, critics and curators spotlight the women artists who challenged the male-dominated art market during the 1980s and 90s. For those wanting an even bigger art fix, our Agenda pages have all you need to know on the latest openings and major exhibitions. Turning our attention to style, we’ve dissected the major new trends for the back-to-school season, rounding up the essential coats, bags and boots – the uniform pieces of any wardrobe. We take a look at the new luxury-shopping destination: Matches Townhouse at 5 Carlos Place, where the digital and physical spheres of fashion merge – and we showcase Prada’s standout AW18 collection. Plus, just days before London Fashion Week, we sat down with Alice Temperley, MBE, designer of the quintessential bohemian dress, who reveals how she stays relevant after 18 years in the industry – and its not by following the crowd. It’s not all about fashion, though – interiors are having a maximalist moment and we’ve got the pieces that will brighten up your space. As always, we take inspiration from women who are tackling the status quo in their respected fields: we profile avant-garde image-maker and makeup artist Val Garland as she releases a book exploring her career highlights; we interview Angela Hartnett, MBE, who is celebrating 10 years of her restaurant Murano; plus Anna Jones, co-founder of women-only members’ club The AllBright considers the importance of creating a haven where businesswomen can connect. We also have the inside track on the latest members-only openings, including The Conduit in Mayfair, a club with a social purpose, Cloud 12 in Notting Hill, a one-of-a-kind club focused on families and wellness, and Norn in Shoreditch, a co-living space and conversation club for millennials. It’s going to be a busy season – we hope this issue inspires you.

Edito

’s

GUCCI £760, gucci.com

EDITORIAL & STYLE DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle CONTRIBUTING ARTS & CULTURE EDITOR: Holly Black CONTRIBUTING FOOD & DRINK EDITOR: Rachel Walker CONTRIBUTING RESTAURANT EDITOR: Hilary Armstrong CONTRIBUTING TRAVEL EDITOR: Lizzie Pook

HUISHAN ZHANG £643, farfetch.com

SAINT LAURENT £780, mytheresa.com THE VAMPIRE'S WIFE £1,200, libertylondon.com

M a ke a s t a t em en t w it h PUR PLE t h is se a son

picks

POPPY LISIMAN £85, net-a-porter.com

THE GLOSSARY

CONTRIBUTORS: Val Garland, Grace Cook, Jessica Doyle, Jessica Bumpus, Cherry Casey, Katie Meston, Rachel Ward FINANCE MANAGER: Amanda Clayton editorial@theglossarymagazine.com | advertising@theglossarymagazine.com production@theglossarymagazine.com | accounts@theglossarymagazine.com Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited, 85 Great Portland Street, First Floor, London, W1W 7LT © 2018 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission. The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to The Glossary magazine’s right to edit.

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

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GUCCI £620, gucci.com TOM FORD £40, selfridges.com

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CONTRIBUTORS Autumn 2018

VAL GARLAND THE IMAGE MAKER (page 62) Val Garland is a maverick makeup artist and widely considered one of the best image-maker’s of her generation. She regularly collaborates with cultural icons from Nick Knight to Vivienne Westwood to Kate Moss. My AW18 must-have buy Preen by Thornton Bregazzi have the most amazing camouflage-print biker jacket with a detachable white shearling collar I can’t wait to wear. I’m looking forward to seeing Franz West at Tate Modern (opening early 2019) – Punk aesthetics appeal to my senses, and I adore his abstract sculptures and paper mâché pieces. ON THE COVER: Photography Sølve Sundsbø; Make-up Val Garland; Model Dewi Driegen at Models One.

GRACE COOK

HOLLY BLACK

JESSICA DOYLE

JESSICA BUMPUS

MATCHES MADE IN HEAVEN (page 44)

THE FEMALE GAZE (page 22)

THE BOLD & THE BEAUTIFUL (page 96)

ALICE’S WONDERLAND (page 36)

Grace is a freelance fashion and beauty journalist who regularly writes for T Magazine, The New York Times, Monocle, The FT and Grazia. She formerly worked at the Business of Fashion and the Financial Times. My AW18 must-have buy The Row have the perfect navy trench coat this season: oversized, super long and double breasted. I’m looking forward to seeing Royal Shakespeare Company’s return to the Barbican to perform Macbeth and Romeo and Juliet — it’s amazing to see such classic literature in such a modernist setting.

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Holly is freelance arts journalist and Editor at Large at Elephant. She has contributed to publications including The Art Newspaper, Apollo and AnOther.

Jessica is the design and interiors editor at the Telegraph, and has also written for the Evening Standard, The Financial Times and Homes & Garden.

My AW18 must-have buy Givenchy’s croc-effect trench coat is full on Bladerunner glamour – it’s my dream purchase for the colder months ahead. I’m looking forward to seeing Rachel Maclean at Zabludowicz Collection. Her hyper-real videos are sickly sweet and sinister in equal measure. Plus, the costumes are a couture dream.

My AW18 must-have buy One of House of Hackney’s new velvet tiger cushions - a chic way to tap into the maximalist animal-print trend. I’m looking forward to seeing The Anni Albers exhibition at Tate Modern. She blazed a trail for female textile artists in the mid 20th century and her work still looks fresh today.

Jessica is a freelance fashion journalist, formerly the fashion features editor at Vogue.co.uk. She writes for The Week, Vogue International, Refinery 29, and Hunger. My AW18 must-have buy Dior’s reissued Saddle bag. It’s a 00s classic and I’ve wanted one forever. The new incarnations are even better than the first. I’m looking forward to seeing The Fashion & Textiles Thirties exhibition which runs until January. It’s a great fashion era to explore and one that is often overlooked.

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

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Philippe de Champaigne, The Dream of Saint Joseph (detail), 1642–3, The National Gallery, London. Photography: John Bodkin.

London Regent’s Park 4–7 October 2018

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A R T. B R I N G YO U R H O M E TO L I F E .

18 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 21 October Battersea Park, London

B O O K T I C K E T S A N D B U Y A R T: A F F O R D A B L E A R T F A I R . C O M

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Cecil Beaton: Thirty from the 30s FASHION AND TEXTILE MUSEUM 12 OCTOBER – 20 JANUARY

As a purveyor of fantasies Cecil Beaton shot for Vogue, Tatler and Harper’s Bazaar as well as designing costumes, theatrical sets and interiors, but he is best known as one of the greatest portrait photographers of his age. This show presents some of his most enigmatic images from the 1930s, featuring the likes of Salvador Dalí, Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn. ftmlondon.org

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Agenda W H A T ’S O N & W H E R E

B y

H O L LY

B L A C K

DRAG: SELF-PORTRAITS AND BODY POLITICS HAYWARD GALLERY UNTIL 14 OCTOBER As definitions of gender, identity and queerness continue to expand, this perfectly formed show demonstrates the many ways in which ‘drag’ has been embodied, questioned and redefined by artists in the last 50 years. From cross-dressing self-portraiture by Robert Mapplethorpe and Samuel Fosso, to new film works by a younger generation of artists like Victoria Sin and Mina Wong. southbankcentre.co.uk

Exhibition

BLACK MIRROR: Art as Social Satire S A ATC H I G A L L E R Y In an age of seemingly unending social and political upheaval, the Saatchi brings together 26 contemporary artists who use a tongue-in-cheek approach to examine our current condition. Expect Richard Billingham’s images of ‘squalid realism’, which confront modern domestic poverty, Aleksandra Mir’s newspaper parodies and Alejandra Prieto’s luxury coal sculptures.

28 September - 3 January; saatchigallery.com

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Elmgreen & Dragset This Is How We Bite Our Tongue

WHITECHAPEL GALLERY UNTIL 13 JANUARY In their latest, fully-realised installation, artist duo Elmgreem & Dragset have recreated the now defunct Whitechapel swimming pool, on the ground floor of its neighbouring art gallery. Their spaces are often infused with a melancholic narrative and eerie familiarity, and in this case the pool represents the rapid gentrification and ‘shift of values’ in the area. whitechapelgallery.org

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COURTAULD IMPRESSIONISTS NATIONAL GALLERY UNTIL 20 JANUARY

While the Courtauld Gallery undergoes a massive redevelopment, the shining jewels of its collection are on display at the National Gallery, complemented by works from the museum’s own holdings. These incredible examples of Impressionist painting include Toulouse Lautrec’s Jane Avril in the Entrance to the Moulin Rouge and Manet’s A Bar at the Folies-Bergère.

Installation view of Richard Wilson 20:50, (1987) at Space Shifters; © copyright the artist, courtesy Hayward Gallery 2018. Photo Mark Blower

Edouard Manet A Bar at the Folies-Bergère, 1882, Oil on canvas, 96 × 130 cm; © The Samuel Courtauld Trust, The Courtauld Gallery, London

A R T S & C U LT U R E

SPACE SHIFTERS HAYWARD GALLERY UNTIL 6 JANUARY

This major new show takes optics to a whole new level, with sculpture and installation from the 1960s to the present day that promise to bend your mind. Richard Wilson’s infamous oil slick allows you to interact with your own impossibly acute reflection, while Anish Kapoor’s Sky Mirror, Blue appears to harness the heavens.

southbankcentre.co.uk

THEATRE

Pierre-Auguste RenoirLa Loge (Theatre Box), 1874, Oil on canvas, 80 × 63.5 cm; © The Samuel Courtauld Trust, The Courtauld Gallery, London

Claude Monet Antibes, 1888, Oil on canvas, 65.5 × 92.4 cm; © The Samuel Courtauld Trust, The Courtauld Gallery, London

nationalgallery.org.uk

ANTONY & CLEOPATRA

PINTER AT THE PINTER

WYNDHAM’S THEATRE

NATIONAL THEATRE

HAROLD PINTER THEATRE

UNTIL 19 JANUARY

UNTIL 23 FEBRUARY

2 OCTOBER 1 DECEMBER

Oscar nominees Sophie Okonedo and Ralph Fiennes star in Simon Godwin’s new production. The story of these famous fated lovers is presented against the backdrop of conflict, regime change and political uncertainty – which is all-too familiar to a contemporary audience – and promises to escape the tired clichés of ‘ancient Egypt’.

This highly anticipated season features double, triple and occasionally quadruple bills of the playwright’s most famous one-act works, from One for the Road to The Dumb Waiter. The starstudded company features Paapa Essiedu, Martin Freeman and Jane Horrocks, as well as a special pre-show performance from Mark Rylance on selected dates.

Florian Zeller’s latest work pairs Eileen Atkins and Jonathan Pryce on stage for the first time. Set over a weekend, when the couple’s daughter visits and a woman from the past shows up, they begin to question their 50-year marriage as increasingly intense emotions come to the fore.

nationaltheatre.org.uk

pinteratthepinter.com

theheightofthestorm.com

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THE HEIGHT OF THE STORM

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Renzo Piano

ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS UNTIL 20 JANUARY

Naeem Mohaiemen Tripoli Cancelled 2017, video still; © Naeem Mohaiemen

The Genoese architect behind such landmarks as the Shard and the Centre Pompidou in Paris is the subject of a major new retrospective at the newly rejuvenated academy, tracing 16 of his most groundbreaking projects. The show features drawings, experimental mock-ups, photographs and an array of architectural models, 100 of which appear in a new installation conceived as an ‘imaginary island’. royalacademy.org.uk

TURNER PRIZE 2018 TATE BRITAIN

Beazley Designs of the Year 2018 THE DESIGN MUSEUM

UNTIL 6 JANUARY

The controversial contemporary art prize returns with a shortlist of four. Collaborative practice Forensic Architecture is known for examining global human rights violations, while Luke Willis Thompson is nominated for his filmic portrait of Diamond Reynolds, girlfriend of the late Philando Castile. Meanwhile both Charlotte Prodger and Naeem Mohaiemen use moving image to investigate issues of identity, albeit through decidedly different lenses. tate.org.uk

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In a celebration of design innovation spanning architecture, fashion, graphics and transport, this exhibition presents the most cutting-edge concepts that have been conceived in the last 12 months, drawn from a mammoth shortlist of 87 nominees. Thomas Heatherwick’s design for the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, and a Bjarke Ingels Group Lego house both feature, along with a plastic-free supermarket aisle from the Netherlands. designmuseum.org

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Left: Phyllis and Demophoön, 1870, Watercolour on paper, 93 x 47cm, © Birmingham Museums Trust Right: The Rose Bower, 1885-90; Oil paint on canvas, 1250 x 2310cm; The Faringdon Collection Trust

A R T S & C U LT U R E

Edward Burne-Jones TATE BRITAIN

24 OCTOBER – 24 FEBRUARY

Mythology, grand scale and high drama typify the paintings of this Pre-Raphaelite master, and Tate’s major retrospective will include over 150 works, charting the artist’s rise from art world outsider to fin de siècle hero. Two of his most astonishing series will be on display in dedicated galleries: his unfinished tale of Perseus and The Briar Rose, which features the artist’s daughter Margaret as Sleeping Beauty. tate.org.uk

Klimt / Schiele ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS 4 NOVEMBER – 3 FEBRUARY

Gustav Klimt, Embracing Couple (Study for ‘This Kiss to the Entire World’, ‘Beethoven Frieze’), 1901.

This year marks a century since the deaths of two of Austria’s most prestigious and subversive artists. Gustav Klimt, the enormously influential Viennese Secessionist, rallied against the establishment his entire life, and profoundly influenced the work of his protégé Egon Schiele, whose radical, eroticized portraiture continues to stun to this day. Both artists’ vital use of drawing as a means of intense expression is explored in this rare show, which includes loans that will not be seen again for years, due to their extreme light sensitivity. royalacademy.org.uk

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Egon Schiele, Group of Three Girls (detail), 1911.

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YAYOI KUSAMA VICTORIA MIRO

3 OCTOBER –21 DECEMBER Dot-mania returns to London this autumn with a new show by prolific Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. Known for her spotty motifs and an obsession with pumpkins, she is undoubtedly one of the most Instagrammed artists in the world, and demand is so high that entry to the exhibition will be by timed tickets only. She debuts a new Infinity Mirror Room, featuring paper lanterns decorated with her polka-dot trademark.

victoria-miro.com

Oceania

ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS UNTIL 10 DECEMBER

To commemorate 250 years since Captain Cook’s first Pacific voyage, the academy brings together both indigenous objects that tell of inter-island trade, ocean navigation, and social and artistic traditions, with works by contemporary artists that reconsider the fraught legacy of colonialism. A striking example is New Zealander Lisa Reihana’s epic video that reanimates the search for the Terra Australis Incognita. royalacademy.org.uk 18

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Nina Brooke, North Coast Asylum, Waikiki Beach, 2018.

A R T S & C U LT U R E

Christian Marclay: The Clock

A FFO RDA B L E A R T FA I R BATTERSEA EVOLUTION

TATE MODERN

18-21 OCTOBER

UNTIL 20 JANUARY

Championing accessible art by emerging and established artists, the Affordable Art Fair returns to Battersea this October, offering works from over 100 galleries. This year also sees the introduction of an expansive ‘print village’, housed in several shipping containers, with live demonstrations, workshops, and of course the opportunity to buy artist editions. affordableartfair.com

This incredible 24-hour durational video is a complex collage of thousands of film and television clips, each referencing a particular moment in time. As such, it operates as a functioning timepiece, as well as offering a historical journey through cinematic history. Visitors can experience Christian Marclay’s seminal work during gallery opening hours, or take the plunge and experience it in full, on selected sleepover nights. tate.org.uk

DORIS SALCEDO WHITE CUBE BERMONDSEY

Simon Boccanegra ROYAL OPERA HOUSE

15 NOVEMBER - 10 DECEMBER Elijah Moshinsky's reimagining of Giuseppe Verdi’s Italian libretto looks to Renaissance art and architecture for inspiration, as well as images of the sea, which operate as a metaphor for morality. The tale follows the love and loss of Boccanegra and his lover Maria; the loss and reunion with their illegitimate daughter; and the political tensions and struggles he faces as Doge of Genoa.

roh.org.uk

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UNTIL 11 NOVEMBER The experience of mourning and the myriad emotions it entails has long fascinated Columbian artist Doris Salcedo. In this latest show she examines the ongoing migrant crisis through the large-scale installation Palimpsest, where she inscribes the floor with the names of those who have drowned while attempting to emigrate, while a new series of sculptures explores the trauma that follows sexual violence. whitecube.com

16/10/2018 18:09

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

BOOK

Kate

BY MARIO SORRENTI

All images © Mario Sorrenti

n what could be described as the ultimate nineties love story, a young Kate Moss met Mario Sorrenti – then a model, now a world-renowned photographer – on a shoot in London back in 1991. ‘I remember sitting next to her and feeling like my heart was going to stop; her beauty overwhelmed me,’ he recalls. The connection was instantaneous, and after another chance meeting at a party in the city, which ended with an early morning walk in Hyde Park, the pair became inseparable for two years. Now, Sorrenti offers up a vignette of their time together, in the form of 50 exceptionally personal portraits of Moss, all housed in a new hefty tabletop book. Until recently they remained forgotten, but after Sorrenti’s wife Mary Frey unearthed the prints and contact sheets in their New York home, she compelled him to show these intimate, candid shots to the world, some 25 years after they were taken. These stunning monochromatic images are a testament to the talents of both individuals. On the part of Sorrenti, the masterful use of light and shadow conveys an otherworldly intimacy and a deft understanding of the craft. Meanwhile Moss’s magnetic allure is arresting throughout, whether she is languishing in bed or staring directly down the camera lens. She is undoubtedly a superstar in the making. Though this collection has never been published, it played an integral part in the careers of both parties. After Calvin Klein saw Sorrenti’s diaries he was entranced, and sent the couple on holiday to the Virgin Islands to produce what would become the iconic Obsession perfume campaign, catapulting both model and photographer to stardom. Moss, who was only 18, describes the intensity and simplicity of their time there: ‘The photos weren’t styled. There was nobody doing my hair and makeup. It was just raw. It was seven days on our own. It was very passionate. Mario and I were young and we were in love.’ The shoot’s sensuality and authenticity became a touchstone for the era, heralding a new infatuation with unadulterated simplicity, for which Moss was undoubtedly the definitive muse. Kate by Mario Sorrenti, published by Phaidon, on sale now (£79.95)

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Frieze Focus

The

Female G

To mark the centenary of women’s suffrage in the UK, Frieze London presents ‘Social Work’, a celebration of feminist artists who dared to challenge the male-dominated market during the 1980s and 90s Interview HOLLY BLACK

or one week a year, at the beginning of October, Regent’s Park becomes the epicentre of the international art world. This is Frieze, and collectors, patrons, artists, curators, critics, gallerists and avid art fans can all be seen navigating a veritable warren of booths, live performances, thematic sections, film screenings and talks, all housed under one enormous tented roof. Now in its 16th year, Frieze London is the original fair that has since grown into a brand incorporating a historical counterpart (Frieze Masters) as well as editions in New York (since 2012) and Los Angeles (from 2019). Its foundation lies in the eponymous publication established a decade earlier, and it is precisely this grounding that makes the fair unique, according to Artistic Director Jo Stella-Sawicka: ‘We started out with a magazine 25 years ago and we are still the largest arts and culture publisher in Europe. We have an editorial approach, creating a narrative with themes and

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

STANDING FROM LEFT: Jo Stella-Sawicka (Artistic Director, Frieze), Jennifer Higgie (Editorial Director, Frieze), Lydia Yee (Chief Curator, Whitechapel Gallery), Iwona Blazwick (Director, Whitechapel Gallery), Sally Tallant (Director, Liverpool Biennial) and Victoria Siddall (Director, Frieze); SEATED FROM LEFT: Melanie Keen (Director, Iniva), Amira Gad (Curator, Art & Architecture, Serpentine Galleries), Louisa Buck (Art Critic and Correspondent, The Art Newspaper), Zoe Whiteley (Curator, International Art, Tate Modern) and Fatos Üstek (Director, DRAF).

Photography by Tom Jamieson, courtesy of Frieze

A ZE

concepts, and I think that is one of the reasons why we’re not considered to be a trade fair alone.’ StellaSawicka has been with Frieze for seven years, and in this time, she has spear-headed some of the most successful thematic projects presented inside the marquee and beyond. Last year, for example, saw the presentation of Sex Work: Radical Art & Feminist Politics, a critically and publicly-acclaimed thematic section that introduced female artists such as Penny Slinger, Judith Bernstein and Birgit Jürgenssen, all of whom were marginalized in the sixties and seventies due to their use of explicit imagery. This year, Social Work will celebrate women who operated beyond the strictures of the art market during the 1980s. ‘We wanted to create a more contemporaneous update to the subject, broadly around feminist artists,’ says Stella-Sawicka, who notes that the project aligns with the year-long celebrations around the centenary of female suffrage in the UK. ‘Rather that working with an expert curator as we did last year, we brought together a panel, because we felt that the subject of women’s emancipation and visibility in terms of voting and legal power was complex in many different countries. As we’re an international fair, a local context isn’t that interesting to us—we want to think about it globally. So, we went to a group of curators, historians and writers who work in the UK. They’re different generations and nationalities, with different areas of interests.’ The panellists include Louisa Buck, Contemporary Art Correspondent at The Art Newspaper, Iwona Blazwick, Director of the Whitechapel Gallery, as well as Whitechapel Chief Curator Lydia Yee, who sees Social Work as a chance to engage with universal and intersecting themes that were prevalent in the 1980s and 90s and remain just as vital today: ‘[We are] addressing urgent social and political questions – from feminism, identity and language, to colonialism, education and labour.’ Blazwick adds that there were plenty of female artists “challenging the idea that genius resided solely in masculinity” and Social Work presents an opportunity to redefine the male-dominated narrative of the period. Fellow panellist Fatos Üstek, who Director of DRAF (David Roberts Art Foundation), elaborates further, explaining that the project is ‘attempting to expand our reception of art history, through concentrating on its strong female voices, may them be heard or need to be heard.’ She shares StellaSawicka’s view that a curatorial panel made the most sense, given the context of the project: ‘It is through the multiplication of voices and positions we can achieve a better world. The future is collective, and is not rising on monocultural affiliations, nor dominant single-handed positions.’

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Uriel Orlow, Bounds (#2) 2015, Chromogenic photograph mounted on diasec 60 × 90 cm; Courtesy of the artist and Laveronica arte contemporanea.

As a result, Social Work presents well-established names such as Nancy Spero, Mary Kelly, Helen Chadwick and Sonia Boyce, alongside lesser-knowns like Berni Searle, who addressed issues of black identity and the body in post-apartheid South Africa, and Tina Keen, a pioneering British multimedia artist. ‘She never participated in the market, because in the eighties if you had a show in a museum or gallery the Arts Council paid for your production costs.’ StellaSawicka explains. ‘If you weren’t interested in making big paintings, the market wasn’t even a reality for you. It wasn’t necessarily a case of being marginalised, it was a question of interest.’ For many visitors, the chance to engage with a fully realised, critical presentation

“Attempting to expand our reception of art history, through concentrating on its strong female voices, may they be heard or need to be heard” is one of the highlights of Frieze. ‘We are a fair, and galleries come to us with a commercial objective, but also it is very much about the critical and curatorial

Sara Cwynar, Tracy (Chanel) 2017, Dye sublimation print on aluminum mounted on dibond, 137 × 109 cm.

FRIEZE.indd 24

aspect too. This kind of section gives them the opportunity to do both.’ These thematic projects often prove instrumental in the work that the main galleries chose to exhibit too, with many big names electing to present female artists this year. For example, Marian Goodman Gallery is showing influential photographer Nan Goldin, Pilar Corrias celebrates ten years with an all-women group show including Christina Quarles and Elizabeth Neel, and The Modern Institute offers a booth entirely dedicated to Cathy Wilkes, who will represent Britain at the Venice Biennale in 2019. While most visitors will be familiar with the blue chip galleries that dominate the fair, some of the most exciting work can be found in the collateral programming known as Frieze Projects. They offer what Stella-Sawicka terms ‘digestable experiences’ that include film screenings (which promises to explore ‘control’ in all its forms), transient performances, and unexpected site-specific installations, such as Laure Prouvost’s eavesdropping opera singer, who reveals hidden conversations in bursts of song, and Camille Henrot’s self-help hotlines. Other curated sections include Focus, which invites galleries under twelve years old to participate at a subsidised rate, thus placing an emphasis on a younger generation who are working with emerging talent. Highlights include a multicoloured immersive installation by Wong Ping— presented by Edouard Malingue Gallery— and Cooper Cole’s dual show of experimental photographers Vikky Alexander and Sara Cwynar. As the years have passed, Frieze has continually re-evaluated its offerings and considered the best way to engage its audience. Two years ago, for example, Stella-Sawicka extended the presentation of Frieze Sculpture Park—where galleries present works in the open air. ‘I reestablished it as a big, summertime public exhibition because we felt we had a great opportunity to have a larger impact in London, whereas doing it just in the autumn and winter isn’t really when everyone is in the park.’ Naturally, this brings art to an audience who would

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

Helen Chadwick, In the Kitchen, 1977, 12 colour photographs, 30 × 20 cm.

Wong Ping Wong Ping's Fables 1, 2018, Single channel animation.

Ipek Duben, 2012, 2012, Metal, wood, paper, acrylic paint, 166 × 157 cm.

Christina Quarles, Grounded By Tha Side of Yew, 2017, Acrylic on canvas, 127 x 177.5 cm.

never conceive of crossing the threshold of an art fair, and it is this connection to the wider public that Stella-Sawicka believes is crucial. ‘We are not occupying private space in a convention centre. We are in public parks, and as a result we have much more meaningful conversations with our audience, with things like the sculpture park and our podcast programme available to nonticket holders.’ Perhaps somewhat surprisingly, she also attests that ‘the idea of being “just a fair” is not really of interest. We are concerned with being a site where conversations between artists happen and where museums come to look and buy art. We’re interested in production and what it means to commission artists.’ This multifaceted approach defines Frieze’s success and is a world away from the early trailblazing years, back when Tate Modern was in its infancy and the endless cycle of international art fairs had yet to appear. It is no wonder then, that the oftused moniker ‘Frieze Week’ has come to define the busiest seven days in the capital’s art world calendar and is utilised as a catch-all term for not only the events of the fair, but far beyond. Stella-Sawicka explains that Frieze has always been about ‘creating a critical moment in London’, and it would seem that this mission has been undeniably fulfilled. Frieze London and Frieze Masters Regent’s Park, London 4–7 October 2018

Mary Kelly, Detail: Interim, Part I: Corpus, 1984 - 1985, Laminated photo positive, silkscreen, acrylic on plexiglass, 30 parts, 121.5 × 91 cm.

Berni Searle, Still 2001, Digital prints on backlit paper 8 images, 120 x 120cm each, Edition 3 + 1 AP © Berni Searle.

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MEMBERS CLUBS

The future is

ALLBRIGHT Entrepreneur, former CEO and co-creator of a members’ club for female leaders, Anna Jones tells us why women must have a room of their own Words CHARLOTTE ADSETT

n a quiet passage off London’s Oxford Street lies a Georgian townhouse, five storeys high with a plain, black door and Virginia Woolf ’s famous quote, “A woman must have money and a room of her own”, embossed on the window. The powerful idiom is a nod to Woolf ’s progressive ideals, as at this women’s-only members’ club – the first of its kind in the UK – CEOs, entrepreneurs, artists and scientists are convening, collaborating and essentially redefining the landscape for Britain’s female leaders. For as well as offering a tranquil haven for working women, complete with cocktail bar, cafe, fitness studio and beauty salon, this club provides an extensive programme of events where members can network across industries, facilitating the founders’ ultimate aim of giving female leaders the necessary connections, skills and confidence they need to thrive. Welcome to The AllBright. “There’s a special place in hell for women who don’t help other women”: so goes the quote from American politician and diplomat Madeleine Albright, which became the inspiration for the club’s name. “When we started to think about the brand we wanted to build, we realised we loved the notion of ‘AllBright’ being a beacon for celebrating women,’’ explains Anna Jones. The former CEO of Hearst Magazines UK, she co-founded the club alongside Debbie Wosskow, a serial entrepreneur who recently sold her business, Love Home Swap (a house-swapping business inspired by the film The Holiday) for £40 million. The two were introduced at a party in 2015 and instantly gelled, largely over their shared experiences of being senior women in business. “We sat and chatted, and had this common bonding passion point around empowering women,” says Jones. “When we started digging into the stats, we found out only one in 10 women start their own business, and then only 2% of capital goes to female-owned businesses – and in corporates, only 1-6% of leadership roles are held by women. Women are better educated and half say they want to get a leadership role, then after working for a couple of years that number is crushed down to 16%. So we thought; what can we do to help those incredible, ambitious, well-educated, kickass women?”

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

Debbie Wosskow and Anna Jones (on right)

The answer was to establish AllBright, an education, networking and funding collective to support women like them. Timing was serendipitous for Wosskow, who was looking for a new venture, but Jones had to make the decision to leave her coveted role at Hearst. “I always had an entrepreneurial itch and when we started to imagine an opportunity for a business that convened and championed women, the pull became too strong and I decided to make the leap.” The first manifestation of the project, a fund that backed female founders, was succeeded by FoundHER, a festival for working women, which this summer featured talks from the likes of Trinny Woodall, Gina Miller and Dr Helen Pankhurst. “Feedback from the festival was that the content was fantastic, but what attendees really loved was to have so many women together. Off the back of that, Debbie and I started thinking, ‘Wouldn’t it be amazing to have somewhere you can do that every day?’.” So the pair decided to create a multi-purpose space for working women, by working women, with the aim of making the UK a better place to be a working woman. After pulling together a management and events team from Soho House, The Devonshire Club, The Arts Club and The Club at The Ivy, The AllBright opened its doors earlier this year on 8 March, International Women’s Day. The location was chosen to celebrate the ‘Bloomsbury set’, with each floor named after a key member (Lopokova, Morell, Bell, Woolf and West). Members have access to the entire space, which has been impeccably designed in a way that feels suitably modern. “We wanted to do something very classic and comfortable and that felt unique to us, but wasn’t girly,” says Jones. “People come here and are quite surprised. There’s no millennial pink – we’ve tried to come up with something quite grown-up and classic.” And it’s worked: the elegant interior is dotted with brass accents, marble, bold geometric prints, plush velvet furniture and standout vintage pieces. The colour palette veers from dark to light in response to how the floors are used: the topfloor cocktail bar envelops members in a deep inky-blue palette, clean white and grey walls on the lower floors creates a calm environment for work, while the Powder & Bloom beauty salon is bathed in a comforting warm glow. When it came to sourcing the furniture and accessories, female designers and businesses were also prioritised, such as Sigmar, Béton Brut and Rebecca Willer, while flowers are by Lisa Yardley. The art display, curated by Beth Greenacre, who looked after David Bowie’s art collection – features only women and includes works by Abigail Reynolds, Lisa Milroy and Anna Liber Lewis. “The walls are full of female artists, the food is made by women, the wine is sourced from female-run vineyards – the club is about celebrating women and being a working woman,” says Jones. It can come as a surprise then, that men are not only allowed in the club (as guests when accompanied by a woman), but are active in its operation. They include Lord Davies, the former banker and ex-Chime Communications chairman who was one of the club’s angel investors, and Allan Leighton, former CEO of Asda, who was recently appointed non-executive chairman.

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Jones and Wosskow have encountered their share of gender-based discrimination in their careers, referred to as “totty” in investment meetings, for instance – comments that merely scratch the surface of the issues facing women in the workplace. Nonetheless, the pair are adamant that being ‘anti-men’ is not conducive to helping women. “Tackling a lack of diversity in leadership roles is complex and not just about combatting sexism, which obviously needs to be challenged,” says Jones. “I’ve always felt well supported by women and men around me in the roles I’ve had… at The AllBright, we’re focusing on why women are amazing, and bringing enlightened men along.” The AllBright certainly seems to have struck a chord with women in London, with 800 founder members (including Naomie Harris, Ruth Wilson, Martha Lane-Fox, Mary Katrantzou and Margot James MP), and a waiting list that runs into the thousands. “As we bring people in from the waiting list, we’re making sure we get a balance of ages and industries,” says Jones. This includes a discounted rate for under thirties, to ensure accessibility to women at the early stages of their career. “Say you’re a CEO, you might be chatting with an artist, PR consultant, coach, teacher or lawyer… we’re really seeing some fabulous relationships develop in the club. The other week this

woman stopped me and said, ‘I’d just like to say, I’ve been a consultant for 10 years and I’ve just written my first book. I had no idea how to navigate getting it published, and I’ve met a literary agent here.’.” The club has been so successful that two more are in the making: The AllBright Mayfair on Maddox Street, due to open spring 2019, and an LA branch, on Melrose Avenue launching summer 2019. At 12,000 square feet, the Mayfair club will be almost three times larger than its predecessor, complete with a floor dedicated to events; a wellness area; two roof terraces; plus an 80-seat restaurant. Catering at both clubs will be headed up by chef Sabrina Gidda, who

“The club is about celebrating women and being a working woman”

competed in the BBC’s Great British Menu earlier this year, while the interiors will be led by in-demand designer Suzy Hoodless. Opening two more clubs, plus continuing to run the festival, may seem like enough to keep the pair busy – but not the Jones-Wosskow powerhouse. Their focus for the immediate future, in fact, is to build the AllBright Academy, which will offer a free 10-week digital programme to help early-day female business founders in their careers and women executives to ‘smash the glass ceiling’. “Once they have completed their course, graduates can go into an alumni group to help expand their networks and be inspired,” says Jones. “We want as many women as possible to be able to go through that Academy – that will be a game changer.” And if anyone knows how to change the game, she does. The AllBright, 11 Rathbone Place, Fitzrovia, W1 Membership: £1,150 for one year (£750 for under 30s); £3,000 for three years theallbright.com allbrightcollective.com/Academy

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A n n aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; s E d i t â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

Anna Jones gives her top tips for women in business

HILL & FRIENDS ÂŁ450, hillandfriends.com

BE PREPARED TO GRAFT

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 1% inspiration, 99% perspiration. People have said to us, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Oh, I had that ideaâ&#x20AC;?, but to actually execute it is a different thing.

BE PROFESSIONAL AT WORK

Even if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re having a hard time in your personal life, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bring it in to work. Do I believe in being an authentic person? Absolutely. But authentically professional â&#x20AC;&#x201C; that gets you far.

MARKET YOURSELF

Women o en downplay their achievements. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s okay to say you ran this project and it went really well, as opposed to being flippant or bashful. Society conditions women to be selfeffacing and to not celebrate their achievements

MAC ÂŁ19.50, maccosmetics.co.uk

ESTĂ&#x2030;E LAUDER ÂŁ55, esteelauder.co.uk

THREE FLOOR ÂŁ355, harveynichols.com

PETER PILOTTO ÂŁ1,350, harveynichols.com

PUT YOUR HAND UP

Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re then seen as someone who is a fixer and a doer. And think of your reputation: communicate, be open and be honest.

TRUST YOURSELF

SMYTHSON ÂŁ35, smythson.com

e best business advice I have been given is to tune in carefully to your instincts â&#x20AC;&#x201C; both on people and deals.

PRIORITISE SELF-CARE

I really believe that time to yourself; to meditate, exercise or just have some peace makes a huge difference to your day. I have two children aged nine and five, so I get up 45 minutes before my family. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s my time to do Pilates and get myself dressed before the mayhem of breakfast and the school run.

CHARLOTTE TILBURY ÂŁ24, charlottetilbury.com

AQUAZURRA ÂŁ470, harveynichols.com

SARA BATTAGLIA ÂŁ385, matchesfashion.com MARY KATRANTZOU ÂŁ850, marykatrantzou.com

SAINT LAURENT ÂŁ2,090, net-a-porter.com

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RACIL ÂŁ365, matchesfashion.com

15/10/2018 06:58

MEMBERS’ CLUBS

CLUB LAND MORE NICHE THAN ELITE, A WAVE OF NEW OPENINGS IS CHANGING THE WAY WE SEE MEMBERS’ CLUBS – HERE ARE LONDON’S LATEST

FOR PHILANTHROPISTS

The Conduit

40 Conduit Street, Mayfair, W1

members’ club with a social purpose, The Conduit in Mayfair brings humanitarian workers, NGO leaders and charitable investors together in one chic venue. The brainchild of Rowan Finnegan, founder of sustainable investment firm Regenerative Investment, and Paul van Zyl, a South African activist, former lawyer and cofounder of the International Center for Transitional Justice in New York, the club aims to attract not just those who have the ambition to make the world a better place, but the experience and capability to make things happen. Would-be members need to demonstrate a proven track record in systemic change in order to join and network with the likes of founding members Salil Shetty, former secretary general of Amnesty International, journalist Christiane Amanpour, and film-maker and activist Gillian Caldwell.

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The Conduit’s commitment to social enterprise is substantiated further than the members’ list, however. The kitchen, headed up by Michelin-star chef Merlin Labron-Johnson, has hired 10% of its staff from underprivileged backgrounds; the sleek interiors, from the speakeasy basement bar to the rooftop terrace, were designed by Cavendish Studios and Russell Sage Studio, and created using 170,000 lbs of recycled materials; while the art, textiles and accessories were sourced from local artisans in remote South Africa and Swaziland. Most impressive is the events programme, which comprises talks and seminars on everything from climate and sustainability to gender and empowerment, plus the mentorship scheme, which will bring 30 London School of Economics MBA students into The Conduit community each year. Membership starts at £800 per year theconduit.com

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

FOR MILLENNIALS

FOR FAMILIES

Cloud Twelve

Norn

2-5 Colville Mews, Notting Hill, W11

5 Heneage Street, Shoreditch, E1

reated for millennials (or those aged under 40), Norn aims to bring online interactions into the real world by inviting its members to connect with others in-person. Founded by former management consultant Travis Hollingsworth in early 2018, Norn takes a two-pronged approach in pursuit of its goal. The first is through its co-living spaces in London, Berlin, Barcelona and San Francisco. Members are invited to stay at these residences for between one and six months at a time to connect more deeply with each city while still indulging their wanderlust. Every Norn home also occupies a historic building that’s typical of the area it inhabits and is suitably small scale, with around five bedrooms plus communal spaces. The London outpost, a Georgian townhouse in Spitalfields, boasts a kitchen, old world sitting room and private library where chatting is positively encouraged. The second part of Norn’s offering is its programme of weekly events that take place at each of its residences and gathers together small groups of members to exchange ideas. Billed as either a Conversation Dinner or Salon, each is themed around a philosophical topic such as ‘The Good Life’ or ‘Mythology’ and designed to promote meaningful conversation – think of it as offline social networking for curious millennial minds. Membership starts £360 per month; norn.co

family-friendly members’ club, Cloud Twelve offers a high-end haven for kids and adults alike. Based on the philosophy that together we do more, the founder – former fund manager, herbalist and naturopath, Jenya Emets – wanted to create a place that celebrates connections with one another; a ‘third space’ between work and home for families and friends. At its three-storey Notting Hill venue, younger members can enjoy an interactive rainforest-themed play area, child-friendly café, plus a plethora of ‘edutainment’ activities for children under five, such as ballet, cooking, science and mindfulness sessions. The upper levels are more geared toward adult relaxation. On the first floor, a spa with therapy rooms offering both western and Ayurvedic treatments, manicure and pedicure stations, a thermal suite with steam, sauna and salt room, a couples’ suite with Dolomites quartz treatment beds, a nine-seat salon and a brasserie. The second floor also has five wellness clinic rooms where you can have an acupuncture session from Ross Barr or nutritional advice from Eve Kalinik. There’s even osteopathy, colonic irrigation, IV infusions and cryotherapy available. Sustainability is also key at Cloud Twelve: the menu at both the kids’ cafe and the brasserie are plant-based, the latter offering organic wine and Champagnes plus a flowering tea range, while the beauty and hair products are vegan and cruelty-free, such as American English, Aveda and Evo. The cherry in Cloud Twelve’s crown, though, is the onsite crèche, which is run by Ofsted-registered assistants and teachers, allowing parents to enjoy all of the above stress-free. Memberships starts at £1,200 a year; cloudtwelve.co.uk

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C R E AT I N G C H A N G E . I S L A N D B Y I S L A N D . S U N G L A S S E S M A D E F R O M O C E A N P L A S T I C Â® C L E A N W AV E S . C O M

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13/07/2018 11:53

STYLE The

Power Dressing Forgoing the usual runway show formula for Fall’18, the Rodarte sisters Laura and Kate Mulleavy instead released a set of portraits featuring of ‘Women Who Inspire Us’ to showcase their collection of Edwardian-style floral embroideries and Flamenco-inspired dresses. The stellar line-up of powerhouse women includes musicians Grimes, Kim Gordon and Chloe x Halle, actors Kirsten Dunst, Tessa Thompson and Rowan Blanchard (pictured above) and filmmakers Gia Coppola and Miranda July. rodarte.net

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15/10/2018 08:25

Fashion Notes All-change at Celine, Faye Dunaway is resplendent in Gucci and fashion’s easiest style update

The Faye way

STUDIO 54

For Fall, Donatella Versace took British sartorial heritage and 1980s punk via Vivienne Westwood for inspiration, producing a collection full of Prince of Wales tartans and military tailoring. With an astonishing 54 models, the campaign is said to be the longest line-up in history.

versace.com

Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, has long celebrated inclusivity, diversity and beauty in different forms – and his campaign for the brand’s Sylvie handbag is no different. Featuring 77-year-old Oscar-winning actress Faye Dunaway, who is resplendent as a Hollywood mother, it was shot by in-demand auteur Petra Collins and showcases the signature design against the sundrenched backdrop of Beverly Hills.

gucci.com

PERFECT PAIRING

For its first ever collaborative project, Rixo London has teamed up with TV presenter Laura Jackson. e resulting capsule collection features pretty printed blouses, maxi dresses, striped trouser suits and 70s sequins.

rixo.co.uk

LET IT

SLIDE

Fashion Forward

NEW ACCENT In the space of a few weeks, Hedi Slimane, newly appointed as artistic, creative and image director at Celine, has evolved the French fashion house’s logo (sans the acute accent) and presented his first collection. The glitzy rock ’n’ roll party pieces, a style he perfected while at Saint Laurent, sat in stark contrast to predecessor Phoebe Philo’s much-loved masculine-meets-feminine aesthetic, heralding a new dawn for the brand.

celine.com

FASHION NOTES 6.indd 34

All Wrapped Up

Originally created as a collaboration with shoe label Paciotti, Midnight 00 has been re-launched by Italian fashion editor and street-style star Ada Kokosar. Inspired by Cinderella’s glass slipper and the opulence of Marie Antoinette, the statement shoes feature extravagant crystal-embellished tulle ruffles wrapped in PVC designed to frame the foot. PVC and tulle pumps, £865;

matchesfashion.com

ASHLEY WILLIAMS

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STYLE

MAX MARA

Back-to-school hair accessories last seen in the 1990s made a strong comeback this season with crocodile clips, scrunchies and the covetable (and most wearable) bejewelled slide. Designers Simone Rocha and Ashley Williams kicked off the trend last season with their respective pearl-encrusted clips and one-word diamanté slogan slides, both beloved by Alexa Chung and the fashion pack. Possibly the easiest style update to come off the catwalk in recent times, simply clip a glitzy slide on both sides of your hair or attach a barrette to a low ponytail.

SIMONE ROCHA, £125; matchesfashion.com

CHANEL

ASHLEY WILLIAMS, £115; ssense.com

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GUCCI, £125; gucci.com

23/10/2018 19:29

Interview

ALICE’ s WONDERLAND Designer Alice Temperley draws on her upbringing to create pieces infused with a bohemian charm. Here, she explains how her latest collection is about creating something real Interview JESSICA BUMPUS

few days before September’s London Fashion Week, Alice Temperley, sitting in the serene white space of her West London office, dressed in a leopard-print shirt dress and Charlotte Olympia sneakers, her nails bright red and her hands adorned in jewellery, including a fox ring made by a friend (her son’s name is Fox) and a shell bracelet made by her sister, gently hinted about the future direction of Temperley London, the brand she launched as a graduate of the Royal College of Art in 2000. Her forthcoming spring/summer 2019 show was to be a collection that was, she said, “more about real women, it’s more about my muse.” Leaning back in her chair, her beachy blonde locks scrunched behind her head, she explained this season was the beginning of something new, switching up how she goes about showing collections. “[It’s] just about how to break the formula. It’s so important to do what you really believe in, that makes business sense and not just do what people expect you to do. So, this one was just about bringing to the fold some realness. The show is not a massive thing for the sake of doing it, it’s about real clothes, quieten it [all] down, not everything needs to be big. We’re not a massive brand.” The latter point, however, is arguable.

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17/10/2018 13:26

STYLE

Eighteen years in the business and the go-to London label for a certain blend of bohemian femininity, Temperley is one of the only longstanding names on the capital’s fashion calendar (her contemporaries in names like Matthew Williamson and even Burberry’s Christopher Bailey, who also studied at the RCA, are all now gone). In an industry that has an ever-increasing seasonal turnover of names trying to make it, 26 shows (this was the big 2-6), a clutch of international stores, a flourishing bridal category as well as a collaboration with department store John Lewis, and having dressed everyone from Beyoncé to Helen Mirren, Meryl Streep and the Duchess of Cambridge, Temperley London actually has. Notably one of the reasons behind this is that Temperley hasn’t kowtowed to the whims of zeitgeist trends in the process. Where others have followed a popularity for a sloppy sleeve or a complicated hybrid creation, or deviated according to Instagram fashion, her penchant for beautiful dresses and wearable clothes has turned out to be her secret weapon. Vivid surface textiles in graphic prints and embellishment characterise her work. In a landscape saturated with similarity and overly complex wares, it’s her nonthreatening but glamorous aesthetic that stands out as being one of the most modern and fresh propositions right now. “I think you just don’t try to go by anyone else’s rules. You just do what you do. I think that will serve us in the long run,” she considers. “If I were to just try and please somebody else or go into somebody else’s world, it still needs to be my vision of what a Temperley girl is, otherwise it may as well just have another name above the door.” Since the brand’s inception that ‘Temperley girl’ has very much been based on Temperley herself, who grew up on a farm in Somerset and now splits her time between London and the pretty south-west county, making her as at home in wellington boots and overalls as she is an evening gown. “The Temperley girl has loose razzled hair and just wears things much more effortlessly,” she describes. “If I had been tottering around in full makeup and heels I think my parents

might have disowned me, because you just have to be real. That’s kind of how we grew up, not with makeup and bouffants but we could appreciate clothes. The Temperley girl is a lot more of that – country, travelled, ultra-feminine.” Which has long since been its charm. “I’ve always thought of her as a romantic British designer who creates beautiful dresses for garden parties and festivals,” describes the actress, model and poet Greta Bellamacina. Because she does that quintessential British thing very well. As she does a jumpsuit, which was central to her autumn/winter 2018 collection. Forties workwear; Amelia Earhart and aviation; costume designer Edith Head and Hollywood bias-cut gowns were among the inspirations to form the mood, which is always how Temperley goes about starting a collection: looking at how – in an ideal fantasy world – that person would live. “There’s a little more escapism to what we do,” she notes. And so, jumpsuits, though a practical garment, get a little sequin upgrade in her hands. “They’re amazing to wear out so you just know you’re going to have fun in them.” Fun and fantasy are integral to the Temperley DNA. As a child, she made things for herself from the offcuts of Liberty fabrics she’d bought from sales with her mother, went to vintage shops and festivals and loved fancy dress. From a very young age, she could see how clothes could transform the way you feel. “Wearing dungaree hand-me-downs on the farm, the moment I got my hands on something glamorous I was like ‘Wow’, because it does take you to another world!” Her take works because it’s tangible, not avant-garde. The same goes for the bridal offering, which she says borrows from the main line, her brides-to-be wanting sequins and colourful embroidery or opting for simple and graceful lines that don’t scream ‘bridal’. For the next spring/summer season it’ll be neoclassical architecture prints on goddess gowns, breezy belted dresses over cut-off trousers, coastready kaftans and debutante dresses strewn with botanical sequins shaping that surprise. As the sun set on an autumn evening way up on the 32nd floor

“It’s so important to do what you really believe in, not just do what people expect you to do”

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of the Centre Point building on New Oxford Street, the designer sent out a cast of real-life muses, friends and known names – such as actress Helen McCrory, photographer Ellen Von Unwerth and the pregnant model Arizona Muse – to capture the label’s spirit of empowerment and adventure. Friends and fans in the audience cheered as the special guest cast of women walked out looking comfortable and confident. “She [the Temperley woman] is very feminine but she’s also very strong, she’s individual and she appreciates not following the crowd. Most of my girlfriends are quite alpha female… though the brand is perceived as being very feminine, it’s how you wear it.” In a digital age (for said casting will have certainly served to feed the hungry Insta lens), there’s nothing better than seeing your wares in real life. Though Temperley welcomes the benefits of the digital world as 18 years ago, no such thing existed. The internet was something people were unsure of as opposed to reliant upon - and a lot more besides has also changed since then. “When I started out it was with two collections, then it was four, then lots of projects and too much –then we launched a diffusion line which we got rid of which was good because now it’s just one collection, one person, one wardrobe.” The only problem is the speed and timeframe with which she – and all designers right now – are expected to produce their collections. Too much, too fast, always. “There doesn’t need to be as much product and people need to be doing less and selling more of what they’ve got, rather than three months and it’s gone. Everyone just needs to slow down,” she observes of the demanding hamster cycle she finds herself in. But it’s something that, as a member of the British Fashion

Council Advisory Board, she is on a mission to address. Because how are young designers supposed to make a mark and launch a brand if even seasoned ones are struggling to keep theirs going? “If they have very individual handwriting and they’re really passionate and believe what they’re offering is something different, then that’s great,” she says. But otherwise, her advice would be to get experience working with someone else before going it alone. “It’s totally and utterly invaluable.” It’s also how you learn to run a business. Looking back, would she have changed her career knowing all she does now? “I might have rethought it at that point and become a photographer instead, it would’ve been much simpler,” she laughs. “It just takes a huge amount of focus and energy. This is a very tough industry.” That said, only a crystal ball could’ve predicted whether a photography pathway, too, would’ve led her to receiving an MBE. Which she did in 2011 for her services to fashion. “Well I thought it was a joke to begin with. My assistant came in and said ‘Alice you’ve got a letter from the palace,’ and I said 'Yeah yeah yeah,'” recalls Temperley. “She said ‘You’ve been offered an MBE,’ and I said ‘Don’t be silly,’ because she always used to wind me up jokingly. I still can’t quite believe it.” But given that the business isn’t all that far away from its 20th birthday, perhaps she ought to start. Next season expect a continuation of this “new messaging”, as she describes it, in a gentle turnaround that only seems to underline her brand USP: leaving the fuss behind in favour of real fashion.

“My assistant said ‘You’ve been offered an MBE,’ and I said ‘Don’t be silly,’… I still can’t quite believe it ”

ALICE TEMPERLEY.indd 38

27 Bruton Street, Mayfair, W1 temperleylondon.com

NEW SEASON PICKS

Cloud Evening Midi Dress £895

Storm Scarf Dress £895

Storm Dress £1,295

Letter Print Dress £1,295

Liquid Metal Wrap Dress £1,995

Airspeed Knit Dress £595

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STYLE

Alice Temperley’s O

GLOSSARY FAVOURITE RESTAURANT

I go to Scott’s in Mayfair for a treat, it has a great atmosphere and amazing seafood. It serves the best-dressed crab in London. scotts-restaurant.com

NIGHT OUT

The Groucho Club in Soho is always full of friends and familiar faces all out to have fun, which means popping in for drinks often turns into a late night out. My drink of choice is rhubarb and ginger Negroni. thegrouchoclub.com

TOP SHOP

I visit Admiral Vernon Antiques Market just off Portobello Road a lot – it's right on my doorstep. The arcade of shops and mix of stalls are where the best antique dealers can be found. I love browsing the beautiful fabrics, interiors, fashion and jewellery from all eras. kasskoo-online.com

FAVOURITE JEWELLERY DESIGNER

I’ve been a huge fan of Diane Kordas’ rings ever since my friend and stylist Caroline Issa introduced me to the brand. Diane’s jewellery is cool, playful and contemporary – I have so many pieces. dianekordasjewellery.com

FAVOURITE HOTEL

Blakes is the perfect boutique hotel in the city. It is decadent and elegant with gorgeous interiors designed by Anouska Hempel. I love the bar for date-night cocktails and the ‘Golden Suite’ off the inner courtyard is the room I always stay in – it's private and very romantic. blakeshotels.com

BEAUTY SPOT

Cloud Twelve is a great new members club for families with a wellness spa that just opened next door to my bridal boutique in Colville Mews, Notting Hill. With beauty treatments, a restaurant, bar and crèche for the kids, it offers everything you could ever need to relax and escape the city. cloudtwelve.co.uk

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SHOES

AU T UM N

E D I T From shoes and boots,, to coats and bags bags,, meet your new-season investment pieces Fashion CHARLOTTE ADSETT

SCULPTURAL HEELS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ROCHAS Python loafers, £625, matchesfashion.com; PRADA Flame wedges, £835, matchesfashion.com; REJINA PYO Suede pumps, £415, farfetch.com; ATTICO Embellished pumps, £910, brownsfashion.com; DOLCE & GABBANA Bette sandals, £1,400, farfetch.com; SAINT LAURENT Embellished pumps, £2,477, farfetch.com; JACQEMUS Camil suede pumps, £430, brownsfashion.com; MARQUES'ALMEIDA Metallic pumps, £435, matchesfashion.com; AMINA MUADDI Gilda 95 glitter mules, £590, brownsfashion.com; DRIES VAN NOTEN Metallic sandals, £570, harveynichols.com

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BOOTS WESTERN MAISON MARGIELA Metallic boots, £760, farfetch.com; ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Studded boots, £1,090, farfetch.com; AEYDE Kate snakeskin boots, £270, modaoperandi.com; GANNI Cowboy boots, £430, brownsfashion.com; CASADEI Studded boots, £1,130, farfetch.com

HIGH BOOTIES ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER Dune 100 wraparound boots, £1,115, brownsfashion.com; LIUDMILA Snakeskin sock boots, £735, farfetch.com; MIU MIU Lace up boots, £700, net-a-porter.com; ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER Tulle boots, £1,266, farfetch.com; SAINT LAURENT Pierre glitter boots, £780, net-a-porter.com

KI EN HEEL FRANCESCO RUSSO Metallic boots, £745, farfetch.com; BURBERRY Graffiti print boots, £550, burberry.com; AQUAZURRA Quant bootie 45, £645, aquazurra.com; MIU MIU Logo print boots, £740, miumiu.com; ALEXANDRE BIRMAN Kittie snakeskin boots, £1,420, farfetch.com

BLOCK HEEL 3.1 PHILLIP LIM Contrast heel boots dress, £620, farfetch.com; SAINT LAURENT Billy leopard-print calf hair boots, £1,210, net-a-porter.com; BURBERRY Studded bar boots, £590, burberry.com; REIKE NEN Corduroy boots, £305, farfetch.com; STUART WEITZMAN Veruka patent boots, £598, stuartweitzman.com

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BAGS

TOP ROW: ULLA JOHNSON Sophie mini bucket bag, £510, net-a-porter.com; DOLCE & GABBANA Suede tote, £4,248, modaoperandi.com; DIOR Saddle bag, £6,200, dior.com; SAINT LAURENT Croc-effect clutch, £865, net-a-porter.com; MIDDLE ROW: JACQEMUS Le Cariño patent bag, £438, matchesfashion.com; GABRIELA HEARST Demi satin bag, £1,695, net-a-porter.com; PRADA Monkey-print leather bag, £1,720, matchesfashion.com; GUCCI Broadway velvet bag, £1,160, matchesfashion.com; BALENCIAGA Kitten-print leather tote, £1095, matchesfashion.com; BOTTOM ROW: MARNI Pannier leopard print calf hair bag, £2,106, modaoperandi.com; STAUD Nic feather-trimmed patent tote, £320, net-a-porter.com; LOEWE Gate marquetry striped bag, £1,675, matchesfashion.com; BOYY Voodoo Bobby 16 bag, £714, modaoperandi.com

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COATS QUILTED MONCLER Quilted shell down jacket, £875, net-a-porter.com; GUCCI Floral puffer, £2,400, gucci.com; PRADA Long padded coat, £1,995, farfetch.com; HERNO Quilted velvet down jacket, £525, harveynichols.com; HUNTER Hooded padded coat, £278, farfetch.com; NORMA KAMALI Oversized puffa jacket, £1,550, net-a-porter.com

TAILORED ALAÏA Princess wool coat, £3,690, brownsfashion.com; ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Waterfall-hem coat, £5,190, matchesfashion.com; BALENCIAGA Houndstooth coat, £2,415, net-a-porter.com; DOLCE & GABBANA Velvet-trimmed wool coat, £1,900, net-a-porter.com; EMILIO PUCCI Wool-cashmere coat, £2,490, emiliopucci.com; MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Wool-Jacquard coat, £1,950, net-a-porter.com

TRENCH BALMAIN PVC trenchcoat, £3,961, farfetch.com; ACNE Corduroy trenchcoat £750, mytheresa.com; GUCCI Canvas trenchcoat, £4,300, gucci.com; BURBERRY Tartan trenchcoat £1,750, burberry.com; SIRAN Lamé trenchcoat, £1,950; harrods.com; ELLERY Legion vinyl trenchcoat, £1,525, net-a-porter.com

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STYLE

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MATCHES made in

HEAVEN Set over five sprawling floors of a Georgian townhouse in Mayfair, Matches Fashion’s 5 Carlos Place is set to be the most laid-back yet luxurious shopping destination in London Words GRACE COOK

alking through the door at 5 Carlos Place in Mayfair is like stepping into the pages of an uber-stylish interiors magazine. An elegant five-storey Georgian townhouse, every space is flooded with natural light. Inside, walls are painted teal green or a buttery shade of biscuit, with matching tonal furniture: think velvet sofas in sage and almond butter, plus mid-century modern coffee tables that sit next to shaggy shearling armchairs. Underneath vaulted arches reside vast potted plants; perched atop grandiose marble fireplaces sit vintage vases filled with sinewy stems of green. The only indication that this house is not a home are the rails upon rails of curated garments from designers such as Stella McCartney, Jacquemus and Roksanda, alongside emerging British labels Rejina Pyo and Richard Quinn. For this is a new concept store by Matches Fashion – an immense space that cements its status as the must-visit shopping destination in London. The store opened in September ahead of London Fashion Week and features a rotation of two-week installations from designers that have so far included Prada and Marine Serre. Exclusive product also accompanies each in-store series: for Prada, Matches Fashion had 70 items created specially, including retro racing knits, tweed waitress jackets and Crayola-coloured crossbody bags. Alongside this is a range of limited-edition merchandise – quirky items like Prada highlighters and pencils and ‘Matches matches’ sit within a marbled vending machine on the first floor. Everything in it is free, as are the coffee and croissants available in the top-floor cafe. “5 Carlos Place is a new concept in luxury,” says Matches Fashion’s CEO Ulric Jerome. “The townhouse – which has been sympathetically restored by renowned architectural practice P Joseph – feels like a home away from home, where customers can explore interesting events and shop exclusive collections.” Indeed, much like any hospitable home, 5 Carlos Place is set to host a range of free weekly gatherings – from flower-arranging masterclasses and yoga sessions to designer panel discussions and book signings. During London Fashion Week, over glasses of Champagne and damson prosecco, famed photographer

Mario Sorrenti signed copies of his new Kate Moss book – the supermodel was naturally in attendance. “It’s a totally new retail experience – a cultural and lifestyle event programme and creative broadcasting hub in one physical, permanent residence,” says Jerome. Carlos Place is by no means Matches’ first foray into bricksand-mortar retail, nor is it its first concept store. Matches was founded as a standalone boutique in Wimbledon Village by Ruth and Tom Chapman in 1987. Selling wares from the likes of Prada, Max Mara and Versace, back then Matches – which rebranded as MatchesFashion.com in 2013 to reflect its digital-first agenda – also had hospitality at its core, with sofas, coffee tables and fresh cups of coffee on tap. “It was about spending time with people,” Ruth Chapman explained. The brand’s e-commerce platform was launched in 2007, allowing Matches to expand its offering and forge an identity of being the luxury retailer that spots nascent talent first. Continuing this theme, 5 Carlos Place launched with an installation titled ‘The Innovators’, that highlighted the designers redefining fashion through sustainability. The collection included beaded jackets by Germanier, hand-painted denim jackets by Noki, and giant volcanic earrings crafted from hand-painted wood from Scandi label Ingy Stockholm. Naturally, for the online retail juggernaut - which recorded revenues of £206 million in 2016 – 5 Carlos Place will be equipped with the latest technology to provide a seamless transition between online and offline purchasing. Want an item from the site that isn’t on the rails? No problem – in-store iPads can get it from warehouse to cash desk within two hours, meaning shoppers can take a hiatus from retail therapy, refuelling in the cafe while they wait. Buying instore but want it shipped home? The staff will take care of that for you, too – purchases can be couriered to any address within the M25 within 90 minutes. “We just want it to be a luxurious and seamless event for our customers,” says Jerome. It seems 5 Carlos Place has got the whole retail experience packaged up – in one of Matches’ signature marbled boxes tied up with a bow, of course. 5 Carlos Place, Mayfair W1 matchesfashion.com

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FUTURE CLASSICS Pradaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new collection takes a futuristic turn with graphic motifs, fluorescent hues and signature prints, available at 5 Carlos Place and matchesfashion.com Photography BEN MORRIS Fashion NATALIE BREWSTER

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Houndstooth wool-blend dress, Monkey-print organza dress; Flame patent-leather sandals; Elektra studded leather shoulder bag, all by PRADA.

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Houndstooth wool-blend coat, logo-intarsia high-neck top, Houndstooth wool-blend tweed midi skirt; Flame patent-leather sandals; Monkey-print leather bag, all by PRADA.

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Houndstooth-check wool-blend jacket; Mohair-blend sweater; Houndstooth wool-blend skirt; Flame patent-leather sandals; Elektra mini tweed and studded-leather bag, all by PRADA.

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Nylon hooded jacket; Banana-print dress; Virgin wool-blend sweater; Flame patent-leather sandals; Zigzag wool-knit bucket hat; Monkey-print leather bowling bag, all by PRADA.

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Elektra studded leather shoulder bag by PRADA.

All available to buy at 5 Carlos Place, Mayfair, W1 and matchesfashion.com

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STYLE

DARKEST HOUR Noir tones are taking over timepieces this season meet the black list Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP CENTRE: PATEK PHILIPPE Celestial Moon Age 6104R, £298,700, patek.com CHANEL Code Coco, £5,200, chanel.com JAEGER LECOULTRE Rendez-Vous Tourbillon Enamel, £88,500, jaeger-lecoultre.com DE GRISOGONO Tondo By Night, £24,100, degrisogono.com DIOR La D de Dior 38, £20,350, dior.com ROLEX Yacht Master 40, £19,200, rolex.com LOUIS VUITTON Tambour All Black, £2,700, louisvuitton.com HARRY WINSTON Emerald, £8,700, harrywinston.com

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506-8

1B 506-8 FILM NATURA BISSÉ

We lead exciting, passionate lives. But we live surrounded by an invisible world, one that is polluted and harmful, made up of suspended particles, gases, heavy metals, sun radiation… and the blue light emitted by all of our digital devices. An invisible world that has a highly visible impact on our skin and causes accelerated ageing.

506-8 FILM NATURA BISSÉ

506-8

FILM

506-8

Alcohol-free and paraben-free

Available at

Now, with Diamond Cocoon Collection, a complete skincare line based on three pillars –fortify, shield, liberate–, which protects our skin against modern pollution, we can face daily challenges and enjoy urban lifestyle without limits.

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BEAUTY

Moss Boss She’s been the face of Japanese skincare brand Decorté for three years and now Kate Moss is taking on the role of creative director – starting with its next campaign. Launching in November, it will celebrate a new limited-edition of the best-selling Moisture Liposome serum (£113). selfridges.com

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Beauty Notes

Magnifi-scent

Anya Hindmarch has added to her Anya Smells collection of home scents with a witty take on the classic reeddiffuser. Featuring a pot of ceramic ‘pencils’ that diffuse the oil, you can choose from three different scents: ‘Pencil Shavings’ releases a dry woody aroma infused with notes of cedarwood and cypress, while the fruity ‘Lollipop’ and minty ‘Chewing Gum’ complete the range.

Innovative new mascaras, solutions, plus a cult pollution solutions US brand comes to the UK

£99; anyahindmarch.com

Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

Urban Legends

Natura Bissé’s new Diamond Cocoon collection is a revolutionary defence system designed to fight the negative effects of modern pollution that cause accelerated ageing. e Skin Booster, Ultimate Shield and Enzyme Cleanser work as a trio to provide biological antioxidant protection against damaging blue light and the nasty toxins in the air. ink of them as essential skincare for city-dwellers.

Diamond Cocoon Collection from £77; naturabisse.com

Face Value

STARRY EYED Following in her mother’s footsteps, 16-year-old Lila Moss has been announced as the new face of Marc Jacobs Beauty, launching exclusively in Harvey Nichols. In her first ever beauty campaign, Lila showcases a perfectly winged violet cat-eye created using the new Fineliner Ultra-Skinny Gel Eye Crayon (£19). Available exclusively at harveynichols.com

BEAUTY NOTES 6.indd 58

Trunk Show

The most anticipated UK launch since Glossier, bestselling American skincare brand Drunk Elephant has finally arrived on our shores. Its non-toxic mantra eliminates drying ingredients, chemicals and oils, instead utilising virgin Marula oil (which supposedly makes elephants drunk) and topical acids as the foundation of each of its clinically effective products. spacenk.com

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

High Shine Move over matte, superglossy lips are back. But forget that gloopy 1990s feel – this season’s wet-look lips are lightweight and infused with moisture. Get the high-octane look with Nars’ Full Vinyl Lip Lacquer (£23), which delivers intense colour and a mirrorlike shine. Available in 10 ultra-saturated, long-lasting shades, its creamy formula will see you through the upcoming party season. narscosmetics.co.uk

Tried & Tested

Pump Up The Volume

e choice is overwhelming when it comes to finding the perfect mascara. With so many formulas promising to volumise, lengthen, curl and add drama, only a few truly live up to the claims. We’ve rounded up the best of the latest innovations that really work, including; the first-to-market 3D-printed mascara brush from Chanel; Nars Climax, which delivers buildable volume without clumping; and the brilliant allrounder, Hourglass Extreme Caution, which gives dense colour and fluttery lashes in a single swipe thanks it’s 4D amplifier brush.

Skincare With Integrity

Since its launch, e Rich Cream has attracted a cult-like following. Regarded as a miracle worker by Hollywood celebrities, including Diane Kruger – who has just been appointed as face of the brand – Melanie Griffith and Demi Moore, the patented TFC8 formula works by triggering skin cells to selfregenerate, renew and become healthy again. Created by German scientist Augustinus Bader, it promises to visibly reduce fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation. Plus, 10% of profits go to fund his research into healing children who have suffered serious burns – so you can look a er your skin whilst helping others.

£205; harveynichols.com

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FROM TOP LEFT: CHANEL Le Volume Revolution, £28 HOURGLASS Extreme Caution, £25 NARS Climax, £21 MARC JACOBS Velvet Noir Major Volume, £22

23/10/2018 19:01

Glowing Glowing skin. skin.

Discover Discoverworld-renowned world-renownedcosmetic cosmeticdoctor doctorand andtreatment treatmentpioneer pioneer Make Makeananappointment appointmentwith withfirmer, firmer,fresher, fresher,smoother-looking smoother-looking skin skinwith withthis thisdeeply deeplyreplenishing, replenishing,glow-boosting glow-boostingtreatment treatment created createdbybyDrDrJean-Louis Jean-LouisSebagh, Sebagh,internationally internationallysought soughtafter after cosmetic cosmeticdoctor doctorand and‘Ageing-Maintenance’ ‘Ageing-Maintenance’pioneer. pioneer.

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04/10/2018 15:05

Doctor’s Doctor’s orders. orders.

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DR SEBAGH DPS.indd 3

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Maker

Image The

More than an anthology of her iconic work, Val Garland ’s new book reveals the moments behind the makeup Words RACHEL WARD

VAL CAN MAKE ME LOOK LIKE THE SEXY KIND OF GIRL I WANT TO LOOK LIKE WHEN I GO OUT. SHE DOES THAT REALLY WELL, AS WELL AS DOING THE WEIRDNESS,” Kate Moss says of Val Garland in the opening chapters of the makeup artist’s new hardback, Validated!. Two years in the making, this weighty tome reads something like a journal with behind-the-scenes stories by Garland, anecdotes from collaborators, candid backstage shots and career-defining images. Upfront and honest from the off, Garland says: “I never planned to be a makeup artist. It was something that just happened. I always thought I was not good enough, not worthy of such accolades.” It’s a surprising admission from one of the best image-makers of her generation, but it’s also a message of inspiration: “This is my journey. If I can do it, so can you,” she adds.

Left and above: Numéro, November 2004; Photography Sølve Sundsbø; Fashion Fditor Jonathan Kaye; Hair Peter Gray; Model Karen Elson.

Above: Harper’s Bazaar June 2003; Photography Sølve Sundsbø; Fashion Editor Jillian Davison; Model Dewi Driegen. Left: Backstage with Alexander McQueen and Kate Moss; Photography Ann Ray.

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Left: Vogue Italia October 2011; Photography Tim Walker; Fashion Editor Jacob K; Hair Malcolm Edwards; Model Kirsi Pyrhonen; Set Design Rhea Thierstein.

“A lot of people try to do what she does but they can’t. Val’s quite raw and there are people who try to do that, but only Val keeps the beauty in it ”

Harper’s Bazaar Us, September 2004; Photography Sølve Sundsbø; Model Polina Kouklina.

SAM McKNIGHT

VAL GARLAND_v2.indd 64

And done it, she has. Starting out in London in the 1990s, Garland collaborated with Alexander McQueen on his groundbreaking early collections and has created some of Vivienne Westwood’s punkiest looks. She regularly works with preeminent photographers such as Nick Knight, Corinne Day, Tim Walker, Steven Klein and Sølve Sundsbø (who shot the book’s cover image featuring a signature Garland look on Karen Elson) on some of the world’s most famous faces, from Scarlett Johansson to Lady Gaga. A pro at thinking outside of the makeup box, Garland is known for taking inspiration from the most mundane objects, inventively applying icing sugar, real flowers, tights, seaweed, pencil shavings, pom-poms, elastic bands and more to models to create astonishing images. She’s gotten away with using a potato stamp on Beth Ditto, a paint roller on Cate Blanchett and she once covered Kate Moss’s skin in platinum black – to much outcry from the media. While best know for such avant-garde work, it’s ‘perfect skin’ that Garland says she’s most often called upon to create; the flawless canvas to which she applies ‘raw’ makeup looks that might be a simple eye, a lip or a brow. “Most photographers don’t want to see foundation,” says Garland. “There might be a little concealer here and there, but it’s all about the skin and creating something that catches the light in a great way – that’s what photographers are striving for.” Her favourite face to work on? That of Kate Moss. “The thing about Kate is she has an incredible bone structure,” Garland says. “Kate is one of those people you can put absolutely no makeup on and she looks incredible.” It seems the admiration is mutual. THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

15/10/2018 08:06

Inside Val Val’s Make-Up Bag

Left: W Magazine October 2010; Photography Tim Walker; Fashion Editor Jacob K; Hair Malcolm Edwards; Model Karlie Kloss; Set Design Shona Heath.

PERFUME

FACE CREAM

FREDERIC MALLE Portrait Of A Lady, £235; libertylondon.com Both men and women always ask me what i'm wearing.

EYEBROW PENCIL

LIPSTICK

L’OREAL Paris Unlimited Mascara, £10.99; loreal.com The bendy spoolie brush is what we all use backstage as pro make-up artists. The formula is so stretchy, it extends the lashes and you get a great curl.

SHAMPOO

LIP BALM

FOUNDATION

EYELASH CURLER

SURRATT RELEVÉE Lash Curler, £28; libertylondon.com The big opening makes it easy to curl every lash, even those little ones at the corner.

FACE MASK

DECORTÉ Liposome Face Cream, £85; selfridges.com I’m a big fan of Decorté, and this cream is my skin saviour - it feels so light but is super hydrating.

MASCARA

L'OREAL Paris Infaillible 24H Fresh Wear Foundation, £10.99; loreal.com I need a foundation that is incredibly long wear as I don’t have time for touch-ups.

DIOR Diorshow Brow Styler in Chestnut, £21; dior.com This was recommended to me by Gisele Bündchen. HAIR BY SAM MCKNIGHT Lazy Girl Dry Shampoo, £19; libertylondon.com This smells so good and gives great texture.

ISABEL MARANT X L’OREAL Paris Saint Germain Road Red Lipstick, £9.99; loreal.com This pinky-red lipstick is my current go-to. BY TERRY Baume de Rose, £39; spacenk.com This gives a beautiful sheen to lips and has the most incredible scent of roses. 111SKIN Bio Cellulose Facial Treatment Mask, £85 (for a box of five); 111harleystreet.com I love a sheet mask and this one is the bomb!

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS VOTARY

Intense Eye Oil, £115 Antidote Night Oil, £75 votary.co.uk

NATURA BISSÉ

Diamond Extreme Oil, £135 naturabisse.com

LA MER

Moisturising Cream, £120 lamer.com

SARAH CHAPMAN

Skinesis Platinum Stem Cell Elixir, £136 sarahchapman.net

LIXIR

Universal Emulsion, £29 libertylondon.co.uk

RODIN

Jasmine and Neroli Face Oil Stick, £55 libertylondon.co.uk

SKIN

SAVIOURS

NOURISH AND PROTECT WITH THESE HYDRATION HEROES Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

OMOROVICZA

Thermal Cleansing Balm, £52 omorovicza.com

DR SEBAGH

Serum Repair Hyaluronic Acid, £69 drsebagh.com

FREDERIC MALLE

Iris Poudre Body Butter, £110 selfridges.com

SUSANNE KAUFMANN

Bath Oil For The Senses, £62 net-a-porter.com

CLINIQUE

Dramaticall Different Hydrating Jelly, £31 clinique.co.uk

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NANNETTE DE GASPÉ Baume Noire Lip Balm, £50 selfridges.com

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CHANEL

NO.5 L’EAU LIMITED EDITION

TOM DAXON

Eau de toilette, 125ml, £130

MIDNIGHT SAFFRON Eau de toilette, 100ml, £155

For the first time in the fashion house’s history, the legendary Chanel N°5 fragrance has been redesigned in a limited-edition red bottle. Available from November 1.

is earthy scent reimagines lavender in a sensual and unexpected way with the introduction of saffron, lavender, jasmine, suede and amber woods.

tomdaxon.com

chanel.com

SCENTS

OF STYLE GET YOUR AUTUMN FIX WITH OUR EDIT OF THE LATEST FRAGRANCE RELEASES Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

D.S. & DURGA

THE DURAN DURAN COLLECTION Perfume oil, 10ml, £75

A quartet of limited-edition oils has been released in collaboration with Duran Duran to celebrate the group’s 40 years in music. ere are four fragrances — and just 500 units of each – exclusive to Liberty. An iconic song was chosen from each decade: Hungry Like e Wolf (1982); Come Undone (1993); Skin Divers (2007) and You Kill Me With Silence (2015). e collection is DS & Durga perfumer David Moltz and Simon Le Bon’s shared translations of the songs’ lyrics and images; fragrant snapshots that range from the surreal vibrancy of the 1980s to the international complexities of the 2010s.

libertylondon.com

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DIPTYQUE

34, BOULEVARD SAINT GERMAIN

Eau de parfum, 75ml, £135 Created to celebrate Diptyque’s 50th anniversary, the new scent encapsulates the original boutique in Paris. A rich mix of green notes, warming wood, amber and spice, results in a complex and intoxicating blend.

diptyqueparis.co.uk

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

CURIONOIR PABLO

Extract de parfum, 50ml, £150

LE LABO TONKA 25

Eau de parfum, 100ml, £180 e brand’s first fragrance launch in almost three years does not disappoint. is dark and enticing scent layers musk, resin and vanilla with a balmy haze of orange flower absolute and tonka that will delight fans.

Taking inspiration from an image of Pablo Picasso smoking, ‘Pablo’ is a very powdery yet spicy scent with a blend of Cuban tobacco leaves, freesia, mimosa, vanilla absolute and tonka beans that gives exceptional depth.

conranshop.com

lelabofragrances.com

BYREDO

ELEVENTH HOUR

Eau de parfum, 50ml, £105 Exploring the idea ‘of things ending, a journey to the end of time, and the last perfume on earth’, this sweet, so woody fragrance features wild fig as the heart note with ban timmur (aka Sichuan pepper) and bergamot top notes plus warming cashmere woods.

byredo.co.uk

BURBERRY HER

Eau de parfum, 100ml, £96 Blended by Francis Kurkdjian, ‘Her’ aims to embody the multifaceted London woman of today. A first sweet burst of berry top notes is lightened by tones of violet and jasmine based on dry amber and musk.

burberry.com

TOM FORD

ACQUA DI PARMA

COLONIA SANDALO

OMBRÉ LEATHER

Eau de cologne, 100ml, £182

Inspired by desert landscapes, leather and spice are joined by floral notes, balancing yin and yang for a heady fragrance.

An original reinterpretation of the iconic Colonia range, the new ‘Sandalo’ is an aromatic woody scent that uses a rare variety of creamy sandalwood from India balanced with zesty citrus notes.

Eau de parfum, 100ml, £82

selfridges.com

harrods.com

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everyone triyoga... 6 beautiful locations 750+classes a week 25+ styles of yoga expert teachers pilates gyrotonic + barre treatments teacher training organic cafĂŠs lifestyle shops at triyoga london www.triyoga.co.uk

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Wellness Notes NASA-inspired indoor gardens, restorative floatation therapy and Goop pops up at Westbourne Grove Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

G SPOT It’s been 10 years since Gwyneth Paltrow sent out her first weekly Goop e-newsletter from her kitchen table in her Notting Hill home. Now a dynamic lifestyle brand that incorporates an e-commerce hub, podcast, wellness summit, book imprint, quarterly magazine and LA store, Goop is celebrating its 10th anniversary with a pop-up in Westbourne Grove. Set over three floors with California-inspired interiors by Fran Hickman, the boutique focuses on Goop’s six pillars: wellness, beauty, travel, food, style and home. Expect to find carefully curated homewares, fashion and G Sport functional gym wear, as well as health and beauty products, including Goop’s own line of skincare, supplements and fragrances. Open until January 27 118 Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill, W11;

goop.com

GREEN SCENE

Apartment-dwellers, this one’s for you. Featuring NASA-inspired nutrient-rich ‘Smart Soil’ and an LED lamp, Click & Grow’s environmentally progressive Smart Garden 9 is the set-it-and-forget-it all-natural system that will grow herbs, flowers and salad greens with zero effort. £199, e Conran Shop conranshop.co.uk

DREAM MACHINE

Super Supplements

POT OF GOLD LYMA, billed as the world’s most advanced supplements, is the brainchild of celebrity fitness coach Russell Bateman. Formulated by nutritional scientists, a daily dose of four pills contains a powerful blend of patented antioxidants and vitamins with benefits including increased energy levels, improved mental clarity and a stronger immune system. Available on a monthly subscription. Starter pack: £199 for a pot and 120 capsules;

lyma.life

One minute, that’s all it takes to improve your sleep according to Hayo’u, the makers of the Body Restorer. Simply use the stainless-steel tool with oil to self-massage your chest, neck and shoulders, and lower back before bed to increase circulation, release tension and achieve superior slumber.

hayoumethod.com

FAST LOVE

More than seven years in the making, the Nike Air VaporMax Flyknit 2 is the lightest Air Max running shoe yet. £169.95; nike.com

F L O AT AWA Y

For busy, stressed-out Londoners looking for complete relaxation, or anyone suffering from chronic pain or sleep issues, floatation therapy may be the key. An hour-long float in the complete darkness and silence of a pod filled with Epsom salt water, encourages the release of dopamine and shifts brain waves from beta to lower frequency alpha, theta and even delta, which calms overly stimulated systems and restores balance. The unique experience promises to enhance mood, lessen anxiety and ease insomnia. £50 per float; Floatworks, 17b St George Wharf, Vauxhall, SW8

floatworks.com

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L A

R E C H E R C H E

D E

L ’ Œ U V R E

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Fruits of the Sea The ‘r’ in the month is a reason to rejoice, as the native oyster season begins in earnest. Where better to celebrate all that the British coastline has to give than in the capital, where centuries-old-oysters bars coexist with cool new crustacea counter? Pretty-in-pink newcomer Neptune – considers the style-set smitten – does classic with a twist. neptune.london

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Tasting Notes The latest openings and the places to know across the capital Compiled by RACHEL WALKER

Capital Feasting

It’s the 10th year of the London Restaurant Festival and the line-up is the best yet – with 10 of the world’s top chefs jetting to the capital to represent their country’s cuisine. Look out for Michelin-starred couple Dylan Jones and Duangporn Songvisava (Bo.lan, Thailand) and Anne-Sophie Pic (Maison Pic, France) alongside the 400 restaurants participating in events across London. Until 31 October londonrestaurantfestival.com

GOLDEN TOUCH

Buon appetito!

Fare Share

COMMUNITY SPIRIT The ‘Jikoni Community Lunch’ combines philanthropy and feasting – with £1 from each meal donated to Food Cycle Marylebone and The Felix Project. Chef Ravinder Bhogal is the queen of kitchen comfort, but her set lunches (£12, served Tuesday-Friday from 12pm-3pm) channel community spirit by the plateful. Jikoni, 19-21 Blandford Street, Marylebone, W1 jikonilondon.com

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Hat Trick

The team behind Michelin-starred The Clove Club and Luca has struck gold again with its third Shoreditch restaurant. It’s East End meets East Coast thanks to Maine-born head chef, Chase Lovecky, whose crab on beef fat chips have been lighting up Instagram feeds since launch. Two Lights, 28-30 Kingsland Road, Shoreditch, E2

The Corinthia Hotel is home to Tom Kerridge’s first Londonbased restaurant, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill. Expect Lobster Thermidor followed by Scottish raspberry and rose geranium trifle: traditional food with Kerridge’s Michelin-starred touch. Dishes are perfectly cooked by head chef Nick Beardshaw, and enjoyed in a dining room designed by David Collins Studio and containing bronze sculptures by Kerridge’s wife – guaranteeing that the surroundings are just as stunning as the food. Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, Corinthia Hotel, Whitehall Place, Westminster, SW1 corinthia.com

MAGNUM OPUS

Champagne house Billecart-Salmon celebrates its 200th birthday with the release of 1,818 bottles of its Bicentenary Cuvée (£1,450). Most magnums have been snapped up by collectors, but some are still available. Its elegant notes are predicted to become even more finessed over the next 25 years. Available at: Hedonism Wines 3-7 Davies Street, Mayfair, W1 hedonism.co.uk

Venetian elegance comes to east London via the latest opening of Cecconi’s. Handmade pasta is served in single portions as well as a ‘bowl for the table’, meaning all that’s left is to choose sides – the burrata and bresaola come highly recommended... as does the Sicilian Frappato house red. 58-60 Redchurch Street, Shoreditch E2

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FOOD & DRINK

Barfly

Full steam ahead

THE SMART SET Like the tableware? Simply add it to the bill at Coal Office – a collaboration between designer Tom Dixon and restaurateur Assaf Granit. The industrial space is an aesthete’s dream, but it’s much more than stylish interiors and Dixon’s lustworthy crockery. The Middle Eastern dishes are equally innovative and fresh, catering for the creative crowd who inhabit the new Granary Square developments. 4-10 The Coal Office, Bagley Walk Arches, Coal Drops Yard, King’s Cross, N1

A stone’s throw from Charing Cross station is a far more tempting kind of train carriage, where it’s less rush hour and more cocktails and crumpets. Diners are whisked back to the Victorian age of adventure and luxurious travel at Mr Fogg’s Society – perhaps sipping a whisky in the life-sized Orient Express carriage or beddeddown in the Map Room where the cartography and curiosities transport guests to another era. Mr Fogg’s Society of Exploration, 1A Bedford Street, WC2 mr-foggs.com

tomdixon.net

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FOOD & DRINK

Interview

Queen The

MAYFAIR For the grand finale of a great year, Angela Hartnett is throwing a series of showstopping suppers with Britain’s star chefs – but at heart she’s still a home girl who loves simple cooking Words HILARY ARMSTRONG

here is little danger of Angela Hartnett getting too big for her boots. For though the Michelin-starred chef and MBE has won over some of the country’s most formidable critics, she has her mother Giuliana, as brutally honest as only a mother can be, to keep her feet on the ground. “She’s the first to criticise me when I’ve screwed something up,” sighs Hartnett. “I cooked her a spinach tart the other week and she said ‘that was a bit over, Angela’ and put it in the bin. She was right. I had left it in the oven too long.” The odd kitchen nightmare aside, this self-described Essex girl has plenty to shout about. She’s having a rollicking 2018 – turning 50, getting married, appearing on Desert Island Discs, and celebrating the 10-year-anniversary of her restaurant Murano, the Mayfair Italian which won a Michelin star within just four months of opening. Nobody questions her staying power now, but they did back in 1994, when the sparkly-eyed young history graduate first joined Gordon Ramsay’s notoriously tough Aubergine kitchen. There were people, male people, who ran a sweepstake on how long the new girl would last. MasterChef judge Marcus Wareing was one of them. “I said she’d last a week,” he confesses. “Some scatty woman who arrives on her bicycle – with a basket on the front! – and cheekily enough ties it to the lamppost outside the Aubergine! We’re like ‘Guys, how long are we going to give this one?’ We all threw in a date and we were all wrong.”

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In fact, Hartnett went on to work for Ramsay for 17 years, during which time she ran the entire round-the-clock food and beverage operation at the Connaught for five years (‘A colossal responsibility, almost mission impossible,’ Wareing reminds me. ‘She just dug in and got on with it’) and won her first Michelin star in the process. In 2008, she launched Murano with Ramsay and bought it off him in 2010. Since then, she’s added two Café Muranos and Shoreditch’s Merchant’s Tavern (which she runs with husband Neil Borthwick) to her portfolio. The ‘busiest woman alive’ (according to her protégée, Pip Lacey, whose restaurant Hicce, backed by Hartnett, opens this autumn) finishes the year with a bang with Murano’s tenth birthday celebrations including a series of guest chef suppers at the restaurant with a select few of her industry friends. Joining Angela in the kitchen on 9 October is Northcote’s Lisa Allen; others will include Lee Tiernan (Black Axe Mangal), Paul Ainsworth (Paul Ainsworth at Number 6), Jason Atherton (Pollen Street Social), Marcus Wareing (Marcus at The Berkeley) and Jeremy Lee (Quo Vadis). An £80 birthday menu will include such Murano signatures as ovenroasted San Marzano tomatoes with burrata and Manni olive oil and pheasant agnolotti. One might imagine Hartnett is giving herself a well-deserved pat on the back for all she’s achieved but, it turns out, selfcongratulatory simply isn’t her style. “You can never say you’ve done it, you’ve nailed it, whether you’ve been doing it for ten years, twenty years or thirty years,” she insists. “You have to just always assume you’ve got to keep going, you’ve got to move with the times, you’ve got to keep it relevant to dining today. If there are regulars we haven’t seen for a while, we will call them up and ask ‘Are you all right? Did we miss something last time?’ The moment you start getting complacent is the moment you should shut your restaurant door and give up.”

“I’ve never felt it’s been a hardship being a woman. I’ve always felt I have it as my advantage”

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Adds Marcus Wareing: “Angela doesn’t cook for the industry. She cooks her own food – it’s ‘home’, it’s warm, it’s got a drink next to it. She’s very comfortable in her skin because she’s got nothing to prove to anyone because she can cook anyone under the table.” The middle child of three born in an Italian-Irish family, Hartnett learned to make pasta at her beloved nonna’s knee. “We ate well,” she recalls. “We were brought up on good food. I was very fortunate. My mum and grandmother made everything from scratch – lasagne, bolognese, apple pies. These were people who had just lived through a war. They didn’t take food for granted. They bought the best food they could afford to buy, not because they’d just seen it on MasterChef but because it was an important part of what being a family is.” Hartnett’s professional career started casually enough. She ‘fell into it’ after college (Cambridge Polytechnic), picturing herself one day ‘running a local restaurant on a high street’. Instead, after working in pubs and Midsummer House in Cambridge, she joined Gordon Ramsay, putting in 17-hour days, six days a week, in his Chelsea restaurant. How challenging was it being one of few women in such a gruelling, maledominated world? “See, I’ve

When, I wonder, did Hartnett first know she had something special? She bats off the question. “My family is full of very good cooks. My mum, my aunt, my grandmother. My aunt is always going to make things better than I’ll ever make. My grandmother would always make these stuffed onions which I’ve never quite nailed. The difference is I can run a business and a restaurant. My mum would get panicked with all the checks coming in whereas I thrive off a busy service.” If Hartnett won’t sing her own praises, her colleagues will. Says Pip Lacey, Hartnett’s ‘natural flair’ and ‘great taste buds’ are a given but it’s her common sense and confidence that distinguishes her. “Angela makes other people feel that it’s possible to do what she does. She loves what she does and people feed off that passion.”

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23/10/2018 18:48

FOOD & DRINK never thought of it as a challenge,” says Hartnett breezily. “I’ve never felt it’s been a hardship being a woman. I’ve always felt I have it as my advantage. I think I’m a good chef. I don’t think I’m a brilliant chef but because I’m a woman, I’ve always stood out. People think, ‘Oh God, she must be amazing.’” Hartnett knows better than anybody the toll professional cooking can take on women (she’s spoken of her disappointment at not having children because she was ‘working and working and working’) but doesn’t dwell on the subject of gender. “I don’t know, just do your cooking and be done with it,” is her take. “It’s a bit of a conundrum,” she continues. “All these awards for top female chefs, they’re as insulting as they are gratifying. Why are you saying females can’t be judged in the same category as the blokes?” For her, what matters when she recruits is: “Can I go and have dinner with them? Will they get me? Will they get my food?” Ramsay obviously did. “He’s a good guy. I wouldn’t have worked for him so long if he hadn’t been. He helped me launch my career. He gave me my first head chef ’s job.

He invested in my first restaurant. I wouldn’t have had the experiences I’ve had if it wasn’t for Gordon, quite frankly.” These days, Gordon Ramsay’s foulmouthed rants are the least of Hartnett’s concerns. Those are, in no particular order: rent hikes, business rates, staffing costs, the minimum wage and Brexit – challenges that have even household names like Hartnett occasionally wondering: ‘Oh crikey, are we going to break even this month?’

“Running a restaurant is much tighter than people think. I’m not someone who enjoys numbers, but I do understand them and I like to understand them. You can’t just hope it all works out.” Nevertheless, she pronounces London’s restaurant scene ‘still great’ and is happily settled in the Huguenot silkweavers’ home in Spitalfields that she shares with Borthwick, their beagle Otis and Hartnett’s collection of Elizabeth David first editions. Married life is suiting her very well, thank you, though the newlyweds do their best to avoid cooking together. “Neil’s messy and it does my head in.” Food is, of course, a shared passion (in case you’re wondering, they served steamed asparagus, crab salad, vitello tonnato, pasta, rib-eye beef and pavlova at their wedding breakfast). When not eating at home – ‘I do make a good bowl of pasta’ – they’re dining out (St John Bread and Wine, Quo Vadis and Black Axe Mangal are favourites). Hartnett rates anywhere ‘that does really lovely delicious simple food’. “To have the confidence to believe in very simple cooking and do what you want to do is the sign of a good chef,” she says. And she would know. Murano, 20 Queen Street Mayfair, W1 muranolondon.com

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Angela’s

GLOSSARY THE FOOD STORE I’d forgotten how great La Fromagerie in Marylebone is. Patricia Michelson, the owner, always has something new in, whether it’s their homemade butter or lovely salt. 2-6 Moxon Street, Marylebone, W1; lafromagerie.co.uk THE GALLERY The Royal Academy is quite near the restaurant so is nice escapism for me. I don’t go as often as I should. The Summer Exhibition is always fun and I’m looking forward to seeing Antony Gormley flood it with water next year. I like things like that. Burlington House, Piccadilly, Mayfair, W1; royalacademy.org.uk THE PROPER PUB The Golden Heart in Spitalfields is my local. The landlady Sandra has been running it for 40 years. She’s an incredible landlady and a lovely friend – she drops round sometimes for a nice cup of tea. When I’m there, I drink gin and tonic or beer. 110 Commercial Street, Spitalfields, E1 THE RETAIL THERAPY I’ve been a huge fan of Ally Capellino for a longtime - they make lovely bags. I have a rucksack and handbag and get very excited about their sales. 9 Calvert Avenue, Shoreditch, E2; allycapellino.co.uk THE HOTEL I’ve always had a real affection for The Connaught, having worked there – the customers are lovely. They’ve done it up inside — it’s so chic and elegant, and the Jean-Georges restaurant is excellent. Carlos Place, Mayfair, W1; the-connaught.co.uk THE RESTAURANT One of my favourite restaurants at the moment is probably Noble Rot. They have a great wine list – it’s very affordable. Chefs often put more on the plate than they need to, but not here: it’s simple and confident. Try the slip sole and smoked butter or Middle White shoulder with celeriac and apple. 51 Lamb’s Conduit Street, Bloomsbury, WC1; noblerot.co.uk

23/10/2018 18:48

Restaurant R E V I E W S

UNDER THE SEA Restaurant writer Hilary Armstrong seeks out the finest oysters and seafood in the capital

Scott’s 20 Mount Street, Mayfair, W1 scotts-restaurant.com

n the manner of the many front row regulars who descend on Scott’s during Fashion Week, the British Isles’ native oysters (the uncultivated variety one should only ever eat when there’s an ‘r’ in the month) arrived fashionably late this year. While this throws my plans for start-of-the-season splurge – a half dozen natives has always got me into September mode far more effectively than any new pencil case – it does persuade me to delve a little deeper into the Scott’s menu. Even minus the natives, there’s no shortage of brilliant bivalves on offer at this Mayfair seafood institution, originally founded by fishmonger John Scott on Haymarket in 1851. From my perch at the onyx-topped bar (the best seats in the house, in my view, whatever anybody says about tables 10, 11 and 12), I can admire an array of rock oysters glistening on ice atop the three-metre-long Future Systems-designed crustacea counter introduced to Scott’s on its 2006 reopening. The best are those from the Île d’Oléron, prized for their delicate salinity. Another essential order is Scott’s signature seafood cocktail, rich with prawns and lobster: it’s a London classic. Dave McCarthy, head chef since 2009, knows when to leave well alone – smoked salmon and Dover sole, for example, are comme il faut – but there’s character to his cooking too. I love the calamari pasta with lobster, prawn and crab, the truncated al dente tubes playfully mirroring the pearly white rings of tender squid; and I appreciate the chilli kick that animates the elegance of John Dory with

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saffron potatoes and shellfish dressing. A buttery Waipara Chardonnay pairs beautifully with both. A hat tip too to the pastry chef whose Bakewell tart with almond ice cream is pure nostalgia and whose charming peanut butter and jelly ‘choc ice’ with sugared blueberries and a cute fruit roll-up reimagines American childhood flavours for a grown-up audience. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £250 SIGNATURE DISHES: Dover sole meunière; seafood cocktail WHAT TO DRINK: Champagne en magnum

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

15/10/2018 07:03

FOOD & DRINK

CHILTERN FIREHOUSE 1 Chiltern Street, Marylebone, W1 chilternfirehouse.com

NEPTUNE

Principal London, 1-8 Russell Square, Bloomsbury, WC1 neptune.london

ven before it shucked its first oyster in May, Neptune at the Grade II-listed Principal London (formerly, the Hotel Russell, est.1898) was being hailed as ‘London’s coolest new restaurant’. Its creators, Aussie chef Brett Redman (Jidori, Elliot’s) and Texan stylist Margaret Crow have form: their much-missed Hackney hangout, the Richmond, was frequented by every fashion designer east of Mount Street. They, along with Russell Sage Studio, have done a grand job converting the famous dining room (the hotel’s architect Charles Fitzroy Doll followed it up with the Titanic’s) into a Bistrotheque-meets-theWolseley all-day brasserie with a delirious design scheme that combines kitsch bamboo, retro speakers and zany graphics with the original Victorian features. Redman’s cooking is a little more restrained, balancing a classic oyster bar menu – the

pewter-topped crustacea counter takes centre stage – with the requirements of a midtown hotel grill room (timorous eaters can stick to sirloin steak and dripping chips) and Redman’s urge to innovate. Classic pairings take an unexpected turn, for example red prawn agnolotti in a pale gold sansho pepper broth and creamy burrata, melon and Vesuvio tomatoes with perfumed shiso in

place of predictable basil. Even better, the seafood platter for two: it arrives with a metaphorical ‘ta-da’, abundantly loaded with Morecambe bay oysters, creamy Essex kumamotos, spider crab legs (well worth all that cracking and picking), trout tartare and more besides with doorstep slices of homemade soda bread. I can’t think of a more agreeable way of shelling out £38. To drink, perhaps an Albariño from the Isabelle Legeron-curated natural wine list. ‘Oyster Happy Hour’ launches at the end of September, when all oysters are half price from 6-7pm daily. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £120 SIGNATURE DISHES: Exmoor caviar, hash browns, lemon crème fraîche and cured egg yolk; smoked corn chowder, eel, quail eggs and curry oil WHAT TO DRINK: Bracingly mineral ‘Island Wines’ from Sardinia, Tenerife, Santorini etc

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asanova, a man of many appetites, was reputed to breakfast on 50 oysters a day to boost his legendary libido. Latter-day libertines can test these claims at Chiltern Firehouse, where the oyster cart, manned by in-house expert Bobby Groves, takes pride of place throughout the season. Oysters, from the regularly rotating lineup are sold singly so one can conduct a gastronomic tour of the British Isles from West Mersea to Whitstable and down to the Teign Estuary in Devon in a single session. The connoisseur’s choice is natives from Loch Ryan, whose oyster beds date back to 1701. The best way to savour their creamy flesh and nutty depth of flavour is with no more than a drop or two of lemon, some Coombeshead Farm sourdough and a glass of crisp Bordeaux Blanc. For a modern spin, try Pacific (rock) oysters from Devon with Japanese-influenced shiso granita or ponzu sauce. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £160 SIGNATURE DISHES: Chiltern ‘Fruits de Mer’ – cherrystone clams, rock oysters, Isle of Mull scallops, carabineiro prawns, tuna sashimi and Isle of Barra clams WHAT TO DRINK: The ‘Mary Celeste’, a Bloody Mary variant with Tanqueray Ten Gin, mignonette and, of course, oyster

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FOOD & DRINK

BIBENDUM Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road, Chelsea, SW3 bibendum.co.uk

he vintage oyster bar on the ground floor of South Kensington’s iconic Michelin House – ever the head-turner – has started the season in grand style. Following a brief closure for refurbishment earlier in the year, it has emerged with a new oyster counter, open kitchen and a terrific new menu by Claude Bosi (holder of two Michelin stars at Bibendum’s first floor restaurant). The oyster selection remains undoubtedly one of the best in town, with nine varieties to try, including ‘spéciales’ from Maison Gillardeau in Normandy (dubbed the ‘Rolls-Royce’ of oysters), gnarled Jersey rocks, and Tsarskaya oysters from Cancale, characterised by their iodine tang and a hint of acidity on the finish. This season, I’ll be setting a reminder for 5pm to take advantage of ‘Oyster Happy Hour’ (weekdays only), when select varieties cost just £1 a pop. Ticking off

a selection on a docket – dim sum style – with a cute ‘I stole this from Bibendum Oyster Bar’ pencil is a fun way for both aficionado and amateur to explore the various oysters’ nuanced flavours and textures. Elsewhere on the menu, Bosi has introduced such Gallic greats as moules frites, soupe de poisson and snails with garlic butter, while the new weekend brunch menu wants to ease you into the day in indulgent fashion. Expect squid, shrimp and cheddar toasties, linguine with lobster and chilli crab, and the ‘Bibendum LBT’. Hint: the ‘L’ stands for lobster. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £100 SIGNATURE DISH: Lobster roll with shoestring fries; Fruits de Mer platters WHAT TO DRINK: Billecart-Salmon

WILTON'S

55 Jermyn Street, St James’s, SW1Y wiltons.co.uk

iltons of Jermyn Street may have opened after the summer with its artwork rearranged and a new paint colour on the walls for the first time in 20 years but, in all other regards, the 276-year-old politicians’ favourite (this year awarded a prestigious ‘Green Plaque’ in recognition of its contribution to Westminster life) remains blissfully unchanged. To dine at Wiltons is to take a journey back in time. Such correct but unfailingly charming hospitality is almost impossible to find elsewhere. While we don’t actually have a fleet of waiters all to ourselves, it somehow feels as if we do. The kitchen shines in autumn, as it celebrates the joyous synchronicity of the seasons, as native oysters and feathered game arrive in tandem. While it may be courting gout to indulge too frequently, it’s hard to say no to a half dozen Loch Ryan oysters and traditionally garnished roast grouse. Wiltons’ is a kitchen run without ego, where the guest

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comes first, hence its impressive range: Scottish lobster, for example, comes grilled, cold, Thermidor or Newburg, while Dover sole is grilled, à la meunière or in goujons. Opportunities to explore the bountiful British larder are plentiful. Oyster virgins can take the plunge with cooked oysters ‘Rockefeller’ (baked and breadcrumbed) or ‘Beau Brummell’ (fried with chilli); and oft-overlooked classics such as beef consommé, sole ‘Véronique’ and Scotch woodcock are ripe for rediscovery. The wine cellar is similarly ‘old school’, Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux being particularly well represented. Wiltons holds an oyster masterclass on the first Monday of every month. What head oysterman Filippo Salamone doesn’t know about oysters isn’t worth knowing. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £250 SIGNATURE DISH: Dressed crab; Scottish lobster cocktail; roast beef from the carving trolley WHAT TO DRINK: Wilton’s “275th Anniversary Special Cuvée” Champagne

J. Sheekey ATLANTIC BAR & TERRACE

33-35 St Martin’s Court, Covent Garden, WC2 jsheekeyatlanticbar.co.uk

he next-doorneighbour and informal spin-off of the Theatreland institution, J.Sheekey’s Atlantic Bar & Terrace celebrates its tenth birthday this year. Any excuse for a glass of Delamotte Champagne and a half dozen Jersey Pearls (a snip at £19.75 all in) or the full plateau de fruits de mer (lobster optional) at the lively horseshoe-shaped bar. The experts say native oysters get better as it gets colder so even if you leave it a few weeks, you can still enjoy them alfresco on Sheekey’s terrace, now winter-weather-ready with heaters and cosy blankets. Rock oysters from Lindisfarne, Menai and Carlingford are year-round hits, while deliveries of natives from West Mersea are coming in now (the season having started late this year). The wine list is cleverly categorised by coastlines: turn to the Atlantic section for a bone-dry Muscadet or lively Vinho Verde.

MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £120 SIGNATURE DISHES: Sheekey’s Fish Pie WHAT TO DRINK: Vintage Krug

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Restaurant R E V I E W S

BENTLEY’S

BAR & GRILL 11-15 Swallow Street, Mayfair, W1 bentleys.org

KASPAR’S AT T H E S AV OY

The Savoy, Strand, WC2 kaspars.co.uk

ot all seafood restaurants are hooked on classics. At the Savoy Hotel, the 129-year-old grande dame’s Art Deco-style restaurant and oyster bar, Kaspar’s, takes provenance and seasonality as the starting point for a menu informed but never bound by tradition. We begin with ‘Best of the Seas’ from the seafood counter, a marine journey that takes us from the British coastline for hand-dived Scottish scallops, oysters and sweet Cornish crab to the Bering Sea for its prized king crab and the Mediterranean for rosy pink prawns. The kitchen’s creative streak is foregrounded in intermediate dishes such as smoked salmon tartare, dramatically paired with charcoal melba toast and keta caviar and the signature hen crab and lobster bisque with a judicious hint of espelette pepper for piquancy. There’s a technical twist to a clever ‘principal’ dish of North Atlantic halibut in the form of its own lightly smoked roe and burnt mussel fumet. For the true grill experience, as befits the chic chequerboard-floored, silver-leaf-ceilinged space, look to stellar ingredients such as Brittany poussin, Isle of Harris lobster and Newlyn Dover sole cooked over the lava stone grill. From a choice of ‘timeless sauces’ we take lemon hollandaise and shellfish nage with the lobster, ringing the changes from one of Kaspar’s ‘sides of the moment’, heavenly truffle-laced pomme purée. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £200 SIGNATURE DISHES: Cornish hen crab and native lobster bisque WHAT TO DRINK: Sir Winston Churchill’s preferred champagne – Pol Roger

entley’s iconic oyster signage shines down on Swallow Street, stopping me in my tracks as I scuttle between Piccadilly and Regent Street. Oh go on then, a few oysters won’t hurt. Irish chef Richard Corrigan’s 102-year-old oyster bar and grill seems to inspire spontaneity. As luxurious pick-me-ups go, it doesn’t get much better than a seat at the cool marble counter, a chat with the shuckers and a glass from the Champagne bottle on ice at the bar. It’s hard to say no to this season’s £18 special offer of two rocks, two natives with a glass of Champagne or the seafood platter with extra natives and bottle of fizz for £150. The oyster selection is as strong as ever. Loch Ryan and West Mersea No.2s were the first natives out of the gates this year, alongside rocks from Carlingford, Jersey, Achill and Dorset, deftly prised open by the fastest shuckers in town (Bentley’s Federico Fiorillo is the reigning British Tabasco Oyster Opening Champion). Purists argue that oysters should be eaten au naturel with a few drops of

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lemon – mignonette if you must – but maybe they haven’t tried Bentley’s moreish Vietnamese oysters spiked with chilli, ginger, lime and fish sauce. Look out for Bentley’s new oyster masterclasses (£65) this year, an education in shucking, serving and tasting these moreish, mineral-rich molluscs. The wise student will stay behind after class for further education at the bar. Top marks. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £90 SIGNATURE DISHES: Bentley’s Royal Fish Pie WHAT TO DRINK: Half pints of oyster stout

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Spiritual awakening Tucked away in the foothills of the Himalayas in Rishikesh, the exquisite Roseate Ganges takes the word â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;picturesqueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; to a new level. With 16 rustic cottages perched on the banks of the sacred Ganges waterway, the Roseate will offer yoga, bespoke beachside spa therapies and spiritual hiking to pilgrimage spots when it opens in November. Namaste. roseatehotels.com

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Travel Notes

Go glamping in the Maldives, try star-gazing in wild Canada and track leopards in Sri Lanka Compiled by LIZZIE POOK

COOL FOR CATS

Beneath the stars

Wildlife lovers assemble. Resplendent Ceylon’s sublime Wild Coast Tented Lodge, clustered around the edge of the wildlife-rich Yala National Park in Sri Lanka, is opening a pioneering leopard conservation station in December, a first of its kind for the area. The site will act as an information station for guests, as well as a hub for local researchers. Long-term, the plan is to create a census of leopards in the area – which has one of the biggest densities of the elusive big cat on the planet. resplendentceylon.com

BEACH COMBER The Maldives may be coveted for their dazzling over-water villas, but see a new side to the idyllic islands by spending the night alfresco on your very own private sandbank. The ‘sleep under the stars’ experience offered by Milaidhoo Island Maldives comes complete with a canopied four-poster bed, a fourcourse dinner and cocktails plus a private yacht anchored nearby. milaidhoo.com

RED HOT

Slick safari company &Beyond are known as much for their chic African lodges as they are for their deep-seated conservation ethos. Vira Vira will be their first lodge in South America when it opens in Chile later this month, so expect farm-to-table food inspired by local Mapuche recipes, textiles by local artisans and activities from horse riding to skiing.

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Open House Hot on the heels of Soho House Group’s Kettner’s Townhouse opening earlier this year, comes Redchurch Townhouse in Shoreditch: a 37-room boutique hotel that’s open to all, with rooms ranging from tiny to large. The signature plush-but-homely interiors celebrate mid-century style, and the ground floor features works by 40 artists aged under 40 and based in the east of the city – a nod to the area’s cultural cachet.

1 Whitby Street, Shoreditch, E1; redchurchtownhouse.com

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T R AV E L

INTO THE WILD Gaze at the aurora borealis, cosy up in front of a crackling fire and listen out for the haunting howl of nearby wolves, all from the comfort of The Northern Lights Resort & Spa’s new glass chalets in Canada’s remote Yukon Valley. The extravagantly appointed chalets – with queen-sized beds, floor-to-ceiling windows, tiled showers and on-site hot tubs – will be available for year-round use, meaning you can immerse yourself in this wonderfully wild landscape whenever the mood strikes.

True Blue The Whitsundays – off the central coast of Australia’s Queensland – is one of the most pristine archipelagos in the world. But there have been no luxury properties in the area, until now. Following an extensive AU$100 million redevelopment, Daydream Island Resort will re-open this autumn, offering on-site marine biologists, intimate adultsonly cabanas and world-class snorkelling, directly from the white sand beach.

daydreamisland.com

magneticnorthtravel.com

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Wanderlust

For a safari that moves far beyond the crowds, opt for South Tanzania, where unexplored wilderness promises an experience like no other Words LIZZIE POOK

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T R AV E L

he sun is sinking in the vast African sky, sending shafts of amber and salmon pink slicing across the horizon like shining swords. We’re meandering our way back to camp after a thrilling game drive, scything through miombo woodland and armies of bulbous baobab trees when we see it, suddenly, in the middle of the road. It’s huge. A towering elephant, its striated, dusty form so close I could reach out and tickle its feathery eyelashes. And it is not happy we are here. It blusters and trumpets, its low guttural grumble travelling the short space between us , seizing my body and rattling my bones. Its huge ears flap like immense fans, its trunk swaying wildly, before the beast finally snaps and makes its charge towards the car. This is a Ruaha, east Africa’s largest national park. Nestled in south Tanzania, it’s home to a tenth of the world’s population of lions, more than 12,000 elephants (thankfully this one decided not to destroy our vehicle in the end) and a huge host of carnivores, from elusive leopards to roaming coalitions of cheetahs. Yet it is rarely visited by tourists. In fact, while the Serengeti in the north receives hundreds of thousands of visitors each year, Ruaha barely touches the sides with a paltry 20,000 annual tourists (meaning you’re unlikely to see another safari vehicle while you’re here). I’m staying at the magnificent Jabali Ridge, Asilia’s new flagship property and the area’s only real luxury lodge. Built around a boulder-strewn kopje, the camp is a series of open-air stilted pergolas and suites that blend so effortlessly with the environment they look as though they have been hewn from the stone itself. As well as vast rainforest showers, heavy wooden beds made from old dhow boats and private sunken sun terraces, each room also has louvered teak shutters that can be opened to let in views of the tangled mauve and lavender wildflowers and totem-like lala palms that festoon the surrounding plains (you will often see willowy giraffes picking their way across the landscape, too). The recently-completed private house, set 200 metres away from camp, offers truly luxurious seclusion. The exclusive-use villa – and the only private house on the southern safari circuit – has two private entrances, a huge baobab at its centre and a sun-deck snaking around the entire property. It sleeps groups of six to eight in its three spacious, lofty en-suite bedrooms and there’s also a private pool, chef, butler, housekeeper and safari guide on-hand for whenever the thirst for a lazy alfresco barbecue or night-time safari takes hold.

Jabali Ridge

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Jabali Ridge

INTO THE WILD

Early morning game drives in Ruaha are almost dreamlike – a hazy sepia light cloaking the golden, shrubby forests. Trees are strung with tiny, intricate weaver’s nests, while flamboyant lilac-breasted roller birds decorate witchy bare baobab branches. Sightings are frequent and exciting. While out one morning we spot a pride of lions in the dry bed of the Mwagusi river, two twin cubs play-fighting and clawing at their mother’s belly for milk. Later that day we catch sight of two adolescent cheetahs slinking their way through the long grass, then at the confluence of the Ruaha and Mwagusi rivers, we see crocs, basking hippos, giraffes and two more sister lionesses panting in the shade, their pink tongues lolling. Back at camp we settle down for dinner in the boma, with burning lanterns dotted around us like constellations of stars. As we tuck into blue cheese and beetroot salad, freshly caught tilapia and tender beef we

hear hyenas whooping in the distance and the trumpet of elephants near camp, and I know I have to be out there again. So with spotlight in hand, our guide Lorenzo takes us out for a drive under the cloak of darkness. Ruaha, it transpires, is a completely different place at night, and we spot tiny spotted genets resting in the nook of tree branches, bat-eared foxes travelling in family groups in the dark, hyenas stalking the blackness for prey and, most exhilarating of all, a pride of 12 lions feasting lustily on a giraffe kill.

Together with Ruaha, Selous completes Tanzania’s sleepy southern safari circuit, and this place just feels wild. Gnarled, desiccated bark redwood trees grasp upwards from glassy water like witchy fingers. Animal bones litter the ground like sacrificial offerings to the gods. Even our camp – the beautiful Roho ya Selous on the banks of Lake Nzerakera – has a bewitchingly intrepid feel to it. Rooms are large and tented, set on puzzle-paving platforms surrounded by palms and tangled bush. Outdoor rainforest showers allow you to wash at one with nature, while two leather armchairs are perfectly placed so you can watch animals drinking from the nearby lake as you take your afternoon siesta. Nightly gatherings around the communal campfire also mean you can catch up on wildlife sightings with your fellow guests, while sipping on a gin and tonic or Moscow mule.

WATER WORLD

At a sprawling 52,000 square metres, Selous Game Reserve, in the heart of southern Tanzania, is real wilderness territory. Here, packs of wild dogs hunt impala with knife-sharp accuracy, huge gaggles of hippos grunt and wheeze in the many rivers and waterways, and the ghostly whistle of fish eagles on the hunt fills the air.

Jabali Ridge

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T R AV E L

Selous Game Reserve

By day, we take to the water. Our boating safari brings us cheek to jowl with huge crashes of hippos, rearing their colossal heads out of the water and exposing their swordsized teeth as they tussle with one another. We cast out rods in the hopes of a bite from a kingfish, and sip on Serengeti beer as huge fish eagles pass us with catfish grasped in their talons, showing us how it’s really done. But traditional game drives in Selous bring nerve-jangling excitement, too. As we head out one morning, surrounded by giraffe, wildebeest, baboons and buffalo nursing their young, we pass through a flock of dazzling bee eater birds so huge it looks like someone has thrown a clutch of jewels into the air. But it’s at roughly 10am on a dry, hot day that we see something extremely rare. As we wobble across a tiny dry stone bridge, I look left out of the safari

Selous Game Reserve

vehicle, suddenly locking eyes with a beautiful female leopard who hisses and bears her teeth. ‘Leopard!’ I whisper urgently to our guide Mashaka, who at exactly the same time, whispers ‘Lion!’, gesticulating at the huge russet-maned lion resting on the dry riverbed just to the right of the truck. This is unheard of. On either side of the vehicle, we have a predator, just metres away from one another, neither of them knowing the other is there. If they met there would undoubtedly be a fight to the death for the smaller creature. It’s intense, and unforgettable, and as the leopard slinks off into the bush I feel incredibly lucky indeed.

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On our final night we retreat into the bush, at our very own private fly-camping site. After walking with our guide Kiv, passing trails of hyena footprints and piles of tell-tale lion scat, we reach our mobile camp site, which has been temporarily built just for us. Perched on the edge of a small lake, there’s a healthy campfire burning, with a private makeshift bar set up and a table laid for dinner (I also can’t help noticing the scores of hippo tracks running through camp). After a private dinner of tilapia with tomato relish and homely baked potatoes and green beans – all rustled up by our personal chef – we kick back with a bottle of crisp South African Sauvignon Blanc and gaze up at the milky way, stretched like a swathe of glitter above us. When we can no longer keep our eyes open we head to bed, in our private cube tents complete with the comfiest camp beds around, and views upwards to the twinkling canopy of stars. As I’ve discovered on my trip, there’s plenty of wildlife to be found in South Tanzania, just hardly any humans. And I can’t think of a better place in which to truly escape to the wild. This 10-night trip starts at £7,810 per person, including internal flights and logistics, accommodation, park fees, meals, drinks and activities (unless otherwise stated). Timbuktu allows travellers to design their dream holiday online at timbuktutravel.com

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Green A new collection of authentic National Trust colours including original shades from the homes of Winston Churchill, George Bernard Shaw and Beatrix Potter. Available now. littlegreene.com 0161 230 0880

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HOME & INTERIORS

Being Earnest Founded by Rotterdam-based American designer Rachel Griffin, Earnest Studio launched a collection of products at this year’s Salone Satellite in Milan that stood out for their sculptural simplicity. One such piece is ‘Kink’, a U-shaped porcelain vase that playfully calls to mind industrial piping and is available in periwinkle blue, rust red or chalk white. earnestly.org

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Design Notes

Soho Home’s first shop, the shade of the season and what’s new from Tom Dixon Compiled by JESSICA DOYLE

MARBLE MARVELS

Welsh designer Bethan Gray is known for her innovative way with luxurious materials. Her latest lighting collection includes this Victoria marble and brass chandelier, named after the teaware from the V&A’s archives that inspired its design. The hand-carved marble spheres are so delicate as to appear almost translucent when lit. £2,475, bethangray.com

ART OF GLASS

As the party season approaches, it’s time to dial up your drinkware, and the new Tank decanter set from Tom Dixon should hit the spot. Taking design cues from scientific glassware, and mouthblown from clear and solid black glass, it has a smoky, gradated effect and a cool, architectural character. £130, tomdixon.net

Wish list

PRETTY IN PRINT Designer and interiors influencer Matilda Goad is a favourite with the fashion pack, especially for her ontrend scalloped raffia lampshades. This autumn she has teamed up with Liberty, using floral prints from the company’s archive to line and trim the shades, which can be paired with her new tadelakt lamp bases.

Base, £295; shade, from £140, libertylondon.com

DANISH WHIRL

Pimlico Road’s design quarter has been given a fresh style injection with the opening of a new Carl Hansen store. The Danish brand is responsible for producing some of the most famous examples of midcentury design, including Hans J Wegner’s coveted CH24 Wishbone chair, available in a choice of colours. £670, carlhansen.com

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HOME & INTERIORS

Colour update

Green Day Green is a key colour this autumn, and Little Greene’s new collection, comprising 31 shades, covers the spectrum from pale mint to deep olive. The range has been developed with the National Trust, and several colours have been taken from Trust houses - Beatrix Potter’s farmhouse and George Bernard Shaw’s writing hut among them. From £43.50 for 2.5l,

littlegreene.com

IN THE HOUSE Soho House Group is bringing Soho Home, its online collection of stylish furniture and accessories, to the people with the launch of its first standalone shop. Situated above Barber & Parlour on Redchurch Street in Shoreditch, the space includes room sets from two of the group’s recent openings, Soho House Amsterdam and White City House. 64-66 Redchurch St, Shoreditch, E2 sohohome.com

FROM TOP LEFT: Mr Clarke Bubble Green Wall Clock, £65; Tennant Wall Light, £125; Morecambe King Size Bed in Pebble Wool, £2,095; Roebling Cut Crystal Champagne Coupe, £32; Burleigh Assorted Blue Dinner Plates, set of 4, £60; Pebble Footstool in Sunshine Wool, £695; Malmsten Curved Samsas Sofa, £5,799

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New Trends

THE

BOLD & THE Beautiful Greige be gone: how strong colour, bold pattern and the odd splash of animal print could be the recipe for a happy, feel-good home Words JESSICA DOYLE

fter decades dominated by shades of white, grey and beige, there’s a new mood in interiors, and it is decidedly bolder and brighter. Minimalism may not be dead, but it’s making way for a different attitude: colour, pattern and texture are coming back into our homes, and statement style is back. The reason for this change of tone could, of course, be simply cyclical: a return to colour after years of greige was, perhaps, inevitable. But maybe it’s also related to a wider move towards mindfulness, a sense of how our homes can influence our mood, and a need for positivity in a world that feels increasingly uncertain. The basic tenets of colour theory hold that warmer tones such as yellow and orange give us energy and are associated with happiness; while green symbolises freshness, as well as a feeling of comfort and safety; and cooler tones such as blue induce a sense of calm and reflection. Pink continues to be a hot shade, and can be pale and soothing, or, in the case of the interiors at Annabel’s, recently given a maximalist revamp by the designer Martin Brudnizki, positively joyful (the all-pink bathrooms are possibly the most instagrammed loos London has ever seen). Where grey once felt chic and contemporary, now, in the face of the new flamboyant palette, it seems cold, drab, and somehow inadequate. The fashion designer Peter Pilotto, who is increasingly making waves in interiors, deployed pattern to great effect at a townhouse installation for last year’s London Design Festival. To follow his lead, wallpaper is the quickest way to transform a room from flat to fabulous, and is once again being used on all four walls, rather than reserved for a single feature wall. House of Hackney, a brand synonymous with oversize, statement motifs, has recently collaborated with the French wallpaper house Zuber, breathing new life into archive prints that have been splashed over papers, fabrics, furniture and accessories.

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CLOCKWISE FROM HOME TRENDS_v2.indd 96 TOP CENTRE: CARTIER Coloratura emerald, spinel, mandarin garnet, turquoise, onyx and diamond necklace, £POA, cartier.co.uk STEPHEN WEBSTER Magnipheasant Plumage white gold, white diamonds and emeralds earrings, £28,600, stephenwebster.com

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HOMES

HOUSE OF HACKNEY Saber Bloomsbury Love Seat in midnight, £3,495; Majorelle velvet wallpaper in petrol, £120; Ananas pineapple lampstand in black, £495; Palme Cashmir Daley lampshade in ink, £140. houseofhackney.com

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GUCCI gucci.com

MOTHER OF PEARL Floral pouffe, £595 each, motherof pearl.co.uk

Animal print is another key element of the maximalism trend that has been making its way from the catwalk to the cushion in recent seasons. As with fashion, a little bit of leopard goes a long way, so a cushion or lamp is a good way to dip into this trend without committing yourself to a dramatic statement. That said, a vintage sofa or daybed covered in a subtle leopard or cheetah spot is a surefire way to raise a smile. Texture is another way to evoke feelings of well-being, which perhaps explains the huge popularity of velvet over the past couple of years. That tactile appeal extends to other surfaces, too: textile hangings are the latest

trend in wall art, and fringing, a major theme at the Milan Furniture Fair this year, can be seen on everything, from cushions and lamps to chairs and sofas. The maximalist look is certainly a huge shift from the cleanlined neutrality of previous years, but whether it comes in the form of a pop of pattern, or a wholesale revamp, it’s sure to amp up the happiness levels in a home.

PETER PILOTTO peterpilotto.com

MUNNA Fringes armchair in antique pink, £2,953 munnadesign.com

GUCCI Velvet cushion with tiger embroidery, £1,250, gucci.com JOHN BOOTH

ANNABEL’S BARLOW & BARLOW Airforce blue pineapple lamp with pink leopard shade, POA, barlowandbarlow.com

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LA DOUBLEJ Pavone soup and dinner plates (set of 2), £80, ladoublej.com

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HOMES

MANUEL CANOVAS Vogue curtains and Derain fabric used to upholster chairs, available at Colefax and Fowler, colefax.com

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Great The

DANE New tome Verner Panton celebrates the pioneering designer’s psychedelic work – and equally colourful personality Words RACHEL WARD

is mid-century design contemporaries may have denounced him as a clown, but Verner Panton will be remembered as one of most influential 20th-century furniture and interior designers. By disregarding the accepted norms and fearlessly experimenting with colour, shape, materials and processes, he came to redefine the function of furniture, inspired new ways of living and ultimately changed the industry on a global scale. Born in Gamtofte, Panton (1926-1998) studied architectural engineering at The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts before going to work for fellow countryman and design star Arne Jacobsen. He set up his own practice in 1955 and, like many postwar

designers, became preoccupied with new materials and their potential for mass production – a quest that ultimately led him to create the piece of furniture for which he’s most famous: the gravity-defying ‘Panton’ chair (1959-60), which was the first to be successfully moulded out of a single piece of plastic. Other enduring and innovative Panton designs include the Cone chair (1958-60), which is mounted on a stainless-steel swivel base; the Fun lamp (1964), made up of pearlescent discs suspended from metal chains; the Flowerpot lighting collection (1969), which features a unique shade created by a hemisphere within a hemisphere; and the Panthella lamp (1971), whose trumpet-like base was designed to contribute to the distribution of light.

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Although primarily recognised for his furniture designs, it was as an experimental architect that Panton really came into his own. He once said that he wanted “to provoke people into using their imagination” and did so by designing rooms as landscapes that were an assault on the senses thanks to his use of Op-Art patterns, organic shapes and unusual textures. The most famous of his creations was Visiona II (1970), an installation for chemical company Bayer, that rejected all traditional notions of architecture to create not just an interior, but an emotional experience. Made up of a series of connected rooms where floors, walls, ceilings and furniture appeared to be moulded from a single mass, each was filled with intense colours, smells and atmospheric sounds – nothing like this had ever been seen before.

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For those wishing to decode the designer’s diverse oeuvre in more depth, there’s a new monograph, Verner Panton, (Phaidon, £69.95) by Ida Engholm and Anders Michelsen. A comprehensive chronology, it contains a wealth of images, hand-drawn sketches by Panton and personal photographs, as well as information on many unrealised projects – enough to keep an avid Panton fan occupied for hours.

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HOMES

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L A S T WO R D

MY GLOSSARY GIZZI ERSKINE

TV chef, restaurateur and author Gizzi Erskine opens her little black book to the capital from Claridge’s to cryotheraphy As told to CHARLOTTE ADSETT

HOME IS I’ve lived in Hackney for 20 years. I love it for its diversity, multiculturalism and creativity, and all my friends live there. FAVOURITE HOTEL I stayed at Claridge’s for two weeks about five years ago as a treat after I cycled across India while my house was being renovated. I experienced the full treatment, from being taken great care of when I was sick from my trip, and an impromptu dinner with Nigella Lawson. FAVOURITE RESTAURANT My current go-to is Brat on Redchurch Street in Shoreditch, as the food reminds me of the best meal I ever had in the mountains of Bilbao at a restaurant called Asador Etxebarri – brilliantly sourced meat and fish cooked over fire. FAVOURITE CHEF At the moment, I really like Shaun Searley from The Quality Chop House – his food is technically cooked comfort food with sexy ingredients like truffles. THE DISH I ALWAYS ORDER IS Sea bass carpaccio with fresh truffle and ponzu jelly at Dining’s in Marylebone. SUNDAY LUNCH On a Sunday afternoon, I love going to The Drapers Arms in Islington for a delicious roast and great red wine with friends.

BEST COCKTAIL Dukes hotel in Mayfair makes a great Gibson Martini. I went there after a hugely romantic date and we drank cocktails into the early hours.

VINTAGE SHOPS For homewares, I like browsing in Old Spitalfields Market (every Thursday), and Rellik on Golborne Gardens, in Notting Hill, is such a treasure trove for fashion.

FAVOURITE GALLERY Tate Modern always has the best shows – the Modigliani exhibition this spring was amazing. We hosted a pop-up last year for Pure Filth, the healthy fast-food brand I run with nutritionist Rosemary Ferguson. FAVOURITE ARTIST Dali – I’m fascinated by surrealism and he is undoubtedly the King. LATEST DISCOVERY Tali Lennox is incredible, her artwork totally blows me away. The way she portrays women’s bodies has a cinematic darkness, which I find truly compelling. FAVOURITE FLORIST Rebel Rebel creates the most beautiful and innovative bouquets. It has opened at Mare Street Market in Hackney, the artisan food hall and modern marketplace I launched earlier this year. FOOD SHOPS Broadway Market is excellent for food shopping. I go to Hill & Szrok for meat, Fin and Flounder for fish, and Organico for fruit and vegetables. I also have a secret soft spot for Harrods food hall.

MY GO-TO FASHION DESIGNERS Rockins by Jess Morris on the Golborne Road does 70s rock ’n’ roll luxe so well – I wear the brand all the time. I also love Charlotte Olympia for shoes. FAVOURITE PLACE TO WORKOUT I weight lift at Roar Fitness in Liverpool St with Sarah Lindsay, who is a three-time Olympian athlete and European gold medalist speed skater. Sarah is a miracle worker and responsible for some of the most incredible body transformations I’ve seen. She’s also a real hoot and I swear I lose as many calories from laughing. FAVOURITE TREATMENT Cryotherapy has been one of the most beneficial therapies I have ever tried for both my brain and body. I’ve been going to London Cryo in Spitalfields for a month, I stand in a freezing cold chamber and shock my body for three minutes as often as I can. I can’t recommend it enough. TOP FACIALIST I see Jasmina Vico on Wimpole Street in Marylebone for a combination of fractional resurfacing and micro needling. I turn 40 next year and I’ve never had Botox or fillers thanks to Jasmina’s expertise, eating well, moisturising like crazy and wearing a factor 50 sun block.

MY SIGNATURE SCENT Coco Chanel. I have just always worn it and nothing else will do. MY BEAUTY BUYS Dr Dennis Gross Skincare. I love all of his products, especially the C + Collagen range, which is a real game-changer for me. Tonymoly Pureness 100 Placenta Mask Sheets are a skin saviour. I get them sent over from Korea. Dizziac Deep Conditioner really sorts out my hair. La Prairie Skin Caviar Concealer Foundation provides great coverage and dewy skin. Lancôme Monsieur Big Mascara for big and bold 60s lashes. Slow by Gizzi Erskine (Harper Collins, £25) out now SALVADOR DALI

TALI LENNOX

MARE STREET MARKET

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