The Glossary Spring 2019 by Neighbourhood Media

FA S H I O N | B E A U T Y | H E A LT H | W E L L N E S S

ISSUE EIGHT SPRING 2019 Â£5 WHERE SOLD

YOU R LO N DO N ST YLE GU I D E

The Sustainability Issue FEATURING:

Katharine Hamnett, Stella McCartney. Emma Watson, Dame Vivienne Westwood, Livia Firth, Naomi Klein, Alice Temperley, Skye Gyngell, Laura Bailey, Jo Wood, Rosemary Ferguson, Greta Thunberg FRONT COVER 8.indd 2

29/04/2019 20:50

MICHAEL KORS.indd 2

08/04/2019 13:17

MICHAEL KORS.indd 3

08/04/2019 13:18

CLEAN WAVES.indd WAVES DPS.indd 2 40

05/08/2018 13:41 18/04/2019 10:10

CLEA

C R E AT I N G C H A N G E . I S L A N D B Y I S L A N D . S U N G L A S S E S M A D E F R O M O C E A N P L A S T I C ®® C L E A N W AV E S . C O M

10:10

CLEAN CLEAN WAVES WAVES.indd DPS.indd 3 41

05/08/2018 18/04/2019 10:33 13:41

LET’S SHOW THE OCEAN SOME LOVE

A healthy ocean is essential to all life on our planet. The ocean drives climate and absorbs carbon – it is our planet’s life support system. Overfishing, pollution and climate change are killing the ocean – and us. It’s time to show the ocean some love. The ocean needs safe havens where it can replenish and fortify itself against climate change. Together we will strongly protect at least 30% from the Arctic to the Antarctic and inspire people to make ocean friendly choices and reduce their carbon, plastic and fish consumption. Join the Project 0 movement to restore the ocean

#OneOceanOnePlanet @weareprojectzero weareprojectzero.org

PROJECT 0.indd 1

Photography: Ben Thouard

01/05/2019 13:05

CONTENTS I

S U

I G H

The Sustainable Issue

Arts & Culture 12 AGENDA

Dates for your diary this season

18 MARTIN PARR

The National Portrait Gallery celebrates one of Britain’s best-known photographers

22 SOMETHING ABOUT MARY

In light of the V&A’s Mary Quant show, Clare Coulson pays tribute to the pioneering designer

26 CLUB LAND

The inside track on the private members’ clubs opening in the capital

28 GUARDIANS OF THE PLANET

Meet the game-changing women on a mission to save the world

Style

45 FASHION NOTES

The designers and trends on our radar

48 KATHARINE THE GREAT

Fashion designer and activist Katharine Hamnett tells us why she’ll never give up the fight for environmental justice

52 PEARLS OF WISDOM

Amy Powney, of ethical luxury label Mother of Pearl, on how sustainability should be a way of life

56 THE ETHICAL WARDROBE

The responsibly-produced buzz brands we should all be wearing

58 GREEN IS THE NEW GOLD

The jewellers and watchmakers for whom the planet is as precious as their pieces

Beauty & Wellness 67 BEAUTY NOTES

The latest news and products

70 CONSCIOUS BEAUTY

From the ingredients to avoid to the best brands to know, we decode the world of clean beauty

76 KEEPING IT CLEAN

Sustainable salons where you can pamper yourself with a conscience

CONTENTS 8b.indd 5

01/05/2019 13:42

The YOUR LONDON STYLE GUIDE

Food & Drink 79 82 86

TASTING NOTES

Where to eat and what to drink

SKYE HIGH

Pioneering chef Skye Gyngell on why she’s putting sustainability top of the menu

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Food writer Hilary Armstrong finds the best eco-friendly tables in the city

Travel 91 94

TRAVEL NOTES

Global destinations

TRAVEL THAT NEEDN’T COST THE EARTH London’s most discerning travellers share their favourite green escapes

Home & Interiors

101

101 DESIGN NOTES

Inspirations from the world of interiors

104 THE NEW-WAVE DESIGNERS

The trailblazers whose eco-credentials are as impeccable as their design practices

110 GREEN LIVING

The brands that create toxic-free furnishings for your home

Last Word

112 MY GLOSSARY

Jo Wood’s little black book of the capital

CONTENTS 8b.indd 6

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

01/05/2019 13:55

The Hydrator.

Reach for instant and intense hydration. Dr Sebagh Serum Repair immediately hydrates and plumps the skin whilst leaving it feeling firmer and tighter. Use this skin care legend on its own, or mix with any serum or moisturiser. Available in-store and at drsebagh.com

DR SEBAGH 8.indd- The 1 Glossary Magazine Display Ad - The Hydrator, The Anti-Ager, The Brightener & The Moisturiser.indd 5 140119 Dr Sebagh

30/04/2019 10:03 13:39 16/01/2019

The Brightener.

Experience Vitamin C skin care at its most potent. Dr Sebagh Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream delivers a stabilised and highly concentrated dose of pharmaceutical grade Vitamin C which is only activated on contact with your skin. Mix with any Dr Sebagh serum, exfoliating mask or moisturiser for an instant and powerful brightening boost with antioxidant protection against external aggressors. It can also be applied directly on its own to help lighten brown spots. Available in-store and at drsebagh.com

DR SEBAGH 8.indd- The 1 Glossary Magazine Display Ad - The Hydrator, The Anti-Ager, The Brightener & The Moisturiser.indd 12 140119 Dr Sebagh

30/04/2019 10:05 13:39 16/01/2019

GLOSSARY W E L C O M E

T O

T H E

THIS PAGE AND FRONT COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: SUSANNAH BAKER-SMITH FOR PIPPA SMALL

pring, a time of renewal and fresh energy. And nowhere is this change more welcome than when it comes to the fragile state of our planet. As climate change and environmental issues are problems we can no longer ignore, we’ve dedicated this issue to sustainability. As such, we speak to the female pioneers, experts and campaigners pushing for a cleaner future, and address how we can all make meaningful changes through positive, honest luxury. Take Katharine Hamnett, who was voicing her ethical concerns in the late 80s, when eco-consciousness was a fringe issue. The radical designer tells Emine Saner why, 30 years on, she’ll never give up the fight (p48). We shine a light on Mother of Pearl, whose Creative Director Amy Powney shares how living off-grid helped her go greener (p52), as well as the buzz brands redefining sustainable fashion (p56). Plus Ming Liu highlights the fine jewellers and watchmakers paving the ethical way in Green is the new Gold (p58). It isn’t only designers seeking environmental justice. In Guardians of the Planet (p28) we focus on the ground-breaking eco-activists. From Greta Thenberg, the teenager campaigning against climate change to Livia Firth, Creative Director of Eco-Age, and Orsola de Castro and Carry Somers, founders of the world’s largest fashion activism movement, each one is making a difference. Plus, Hilary Armstrong catches up with Skye Gyngell, whose restaurant Spring is now entirely plastic-free (p82), and she reviews the capital’s finest dining spots for the conscious foodie. We also decode the world of clean beauty (p70); and celebrate the design doyennes creating a more Earth-friendly world of interiors (p104). Plus London’s style set, including Alice Temperley and Laura Bailey, share their favourite positive impact retreats (p94). And, as always, we bring you the lowdown on all the latest openings and new launches across the capital; though these might not all be fully-sustainable, we’re hoping that one day they will be. After all, nothing is more important than the protection of our planet.

Enjoy the issue - we hope it will inspire you to work towards the world we want in the future. Charlotte Adsett, Editorial & Style Director

THE GLOSSARY

TATA HARPER £34, contentbeautywellbeing.com

KATHERINE HAMNETT £25, katherinehamnett.com

Edito spring buys

ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle FINANCE MANAGER: Amanda Clayton Contact us: editorial@theglossarymagazine.com advertising@theglossarymagazine.com production@theglossarymagazine.com accounts@theglossarymagazine.com

SANA JARDIN £95, reve-en-vert.com

MARA HOFFMAN £318, modaoperandi.com

picks

SUSTA INA BLE a n d E T HICA L

CONTRIBUTORS: Elizabeth Bennett, Clare Coulson, Georgie Lane Godfrey, Olivia Lidbury, Ming Liu, Emine Saner

r ’s

EDITORIAL & STYLE DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett ASSOCIATE EDITOR: Harriet Cooper CONTRIBUTING RESTAURANT EDITOR: Hilary Armstrong CONTRIBUTING FOOD & DRINK EDITOR: Rachel Walker CONTRIBUTING TRAVEL EDITOR: Lizzie Pook

Published by STELLA MCCARTNEY £925, farfetch.com

Neighbourhood Media Limited, 85 Great Portland Street, First Floor, London, W1W 7LT © 2018 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission. The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to The Glossary magazine’s right to edit. The Glossary works with FSC® and ISO 14001 certified eco printers in the UK that only use FSC-certified paper that has been sourced from a sustainable forest in an environmentally-friendly, socially responsible and economically viable way. All paper stock can be traced back to the original tree. Inks are vegetable based.

WELCOME LETTER 8.indd 9

VEJA £115, veja-store.com GABRIELLA HEARST £1,495, gabriellahearst.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

CARLA COLOUR £190, carlacolour.com

01/05/2019 14:49

The GUEST LIST Spring 2019

THE ACTIVIST & DESIGNER

KATHARINE HAMNETT

Katharine chats about success, sustainability and those slogan teeshirts on page 48. Katharine launched her label in 1979, making a name for herself with her oversized silhouettes, utilitarian style and block-letter T-shirts emblazoned with political slogans, which saw her become recipient of the British Fashion Council’s first Designer of the Year award and later appointed a CBE. She has been campaigning on environmental issues since the 1980s and is still fighting for the cause. “Anyone can get successful being a bastard. I think the challenge is trying to be successful on your own terms and being a decent human being.”

THE RESTAURANT CRITIC

HILARY ARMSTRONG

Hilary meets environmentallyconscious chef Skye Gyngell on page 82. Our contributing restaurant editor, who also writes for Telegraph Luxury, Hilary dines at the very best places in London, from Michelin-starred establishments to neighbourhood joints, many of which are putting sustainability on the menu. “No restaurant in London can afford to ignore the issue. Diners view good ethical practices as a strong point of difference - and why wouldn’t they? Skye Gyngell is an inspiration because she refuses to be daunted by the size of the challenge. She believes in the ‘power of one’, the power of one woman, one small business, to make a difference.”

THE WATCH & JEWELLERY EXPERT

MING LIU

THE FASHION WRITER

CLARE COULSON

Clare celebrates pioneering designer Mary Quant on page 22. Clare was previously fashion features director of Harper’s Bazaar, and she now teaches fashion journalism at Central Saint Martins and writes for the likes of FT How To Spend It, The Telegraph and Observer magazine. In light of the Mary Quant show at the V&A, Clare pays tribute to the designer who launched a fashion revolution in the 1960s. “Mary Quant is inspiring for her trailblazing, can-do attitude. What surprised me from the exhibition is how the clothes women bought back then are still going strong - that says a lot about how enduring really great design can be. It’s a timely, thought-provoking lesson for us now.”

Contribs 8.indd 10

THE MODEL

LAURA BAILEY

Laura shares her favourite eco travel destination on page 96. Scouted on the King’s Road in 1992, Laura has modelled for everyone from Chanel to L’Oreal, alongside working as a photographer, fashion consultant, and writer for a wealth of publications, including as contributing editor on Vogue. The mother-of-two is also a Cultural Ambassador for the British Fashion Council, with a particular interest in championing young design talent. “Fashion has a responsibility in terms of labour and its speed of production, and costs, and cotton.”

Ming highlights the brands who consider the planet as precious as their pieces on page 58. As a watch and jewellery writer who contributes regularly to FT How To Spend It, The New York Times and The Wall Street Journal, Ming is perfectly placed to write about the accessory brands with sustainability at their core. “They may be super luxurious but jewellery and watch houses are not immune to today’s scrutiny of social consciousness. Some are even leading the charge with innovate initiatives, such as man-made rubies or watch straps fashioned from recycled plastic bottles. Our top picks of the bunch certainly inspired us - if there’s a will there’s a way…”

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

30/04/2019 14:56

LR_BP_The_Glossary_220x285.indd ROEDERER CHAMPAGNE FULL PAGE.indd 1 1

L A

R E C H E R C H E

D E

L ’ Œ U V R E

06/07/2017 11:06 07/07/2017 10:10

GLOBETROTTER MAASI WARRIOR.indd 1

24/07/2017 17:58

LEE KRASNER

Photograph by Irving Penn Lee Krasner, Springs, NY, 1972 ÂŠ The Irving Penn Foundation.

BARBICAN ART GALLERY

AGENDA OPENER 8 (1) GLG.indd 13

30 MAY - 1 SEPTEMBER A pioneer of Abstract Expressionism, Lee Krasnerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oeuvre was both diverse and ingenious, reflecting the feelings of optimism in post-war New York. In Lee Krasner: Living Colour, nearly 100 works have been collated from across her 50-year career, to tell the story of this formidable American artist, whose importance has often been eclipsed by her marriage to Jackson Pollock. The exhibition, designed by David Chipperfield Architects, features striking self-portraits and original photographs, alongside collages comprising torn-up earlier works and a selection of her most impressive large-scale paintings. barbican.org.uk

28/04/2019 22:06

Agenda W H A T ’S O N & W H E R E

B y

H A R R I E T

C O O P E R

ROMEO & JULIET ROYAL OPERA HOUSE UNTIL 11 JUNE

In 1964, celebrated choreographer Kenneth MacMillan created his first ever three-act ballet, Romeo & Juliet, for the Royal Ballet, set to Prokofiev’s spine-tingling score. More than 50 years on, and the Company are once again performing Macmillan’s masterpiece, in which Shakespeare’s star-crossed lovers encounter passion and tragedy at the mercy of Verona’s patriarchal society.

Photography Exhibition

roh.org.uk

DIANE ARBUS: IN THE BEGINNING UNTIL 6 MAY

H AY WA R D G A L L E R Y Diane Arbus was one of the most influential artists of the 20th century, her photographs depicting the cross-section of urban life in America. This compelling solo show focuses on the formative first half of Arbus’s career, from her early work with a 35mm camera to the distinctive square format she began using in 1962. southbankcentre.co.uk

SIXTY YEARS TATE BRITAIN

FROM 22 APRIL Tate Britain is opening a new display, Sixty Years, dedicated to women artists working in Britain over the past six decades. The curated presentation will bring together around 60 works from Tate’s own collection, to tell the story of British art from 1960 to the present day, from a female perspective. Expect a vibrant selection of painting, photography, sculpture, drawing and film from artists including Sarah Lucas, Bridget Riley and Turner Prize winners Tomma Abts and Rachel Whiteread, as well as many recent acquisitions.

tate.org.uk

AGENDA 8 (1) GLG.indd 14

28/04/2019 21:58

Dorothea Tanning (1910 – 2012), Family Portrait, 1954

A R T S & C U LT U R E

Dorothea Tanning TATE MODERN UNTIL 9 JUNE

Dorothea Tanning was an American painter, printmaker and sculptor, whose career spanned an impressive seven decades. For this, the first-large scale exhibition of her work for 25 years, more than 100 paintings and sculptures have been collated to chart Tanning’s artistic development, from when she first encountered surrealism in the 1930s to her more abstract works of the later years.

DON MCCULLIN TATE BRITAIN UNTIL 6 MAY

Renowned photojournalist Don McCullin has spent the past sixty years capturing harrowing scenes of combat around the world, from Vietnam to Syria. Alongside his iconic war photographs, this retrospective also focuses on the work he did at home, recording scenes of working-class life in London’s East End and the industrial north.

tate.org.uk

Dorothea Tanning (1910 – 2012), The Magic Flower Game, 1941

tate.org.uk

THEATRE

SWEET CHARITY

SMALL ISLAND

UNTIL 8 JUNE In this revival of the Broadway classic, about the romantic trials and tribulations of Charity Agnes Valentine, Anne-Marie Duff stars as the titular dancer and Arthur Darvill as her mildmannered tax accountant amour, Oscar Lindquist. Josie Rourke directs the musical, as her farewell production at the Donmar, which sees the couple whirling and twirling through 1960s New York to such show-stopping numbers as Big Spender and If My Friends Could See Me Now. donmarwarehouse.com

UNTIL 31 JULY A 40-strong cast is set to take to the Olivier stage to bring to life Andrea Levy's Orange Prize-winning novel Small Island. The epic new production, adapted by Helen Edmundson, embarks on a journey from Jamaica to Britain, telling the story of post-war Caribbean migration through three intricately-linked stories: those of Hortense, Gilbert and Queenie, all of which trace the tangled history of Jamaica and the UK. nationaltheatre.org.uk

DONMAR WAREHOUSE

NATIONAL THEATRE

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

AGENDA 8 (1) GLG.indd 15

ROMERSHOLM

DUKE OF YORK’S THEATRE UNTIL 19 JULY While many might be more familiar with Henrik Ibsen’s A Doll’s House, Romersholm is often cited as his masterpiece. In this, the West End premiere of Duncan Macmillan‘s startling new adaptation, Ian Rickson directs Tom Burke, Hayley Atwell and Giles Terera to brilliantly tell the tale of Romersholm, the grand house at the centre of this gripping and piercingly relevant work of personal and political passion. atgtickets.com

28/04/2019 21:58

STANLEY KUBRICK THE DESIGN MUSEUM UNTIL 15 SEPTEMBER To mark the 20th anniversary of Stanley Kubrick’s death, the Design Museum celebrates the work of one of the greatest filmmakers of all time with this fascinating exhibition, curated by Deyan Sudjic. Each of the rooms is themed around one of Kubrick’s genre-defining masterpieces, including Barry Lyndon, 2001: Space Odyssey, Full Metal Jacket, A Clockwork Orange, Paths of Glory, Spartacus, Lolita, Eyes Wide Shut and Dr Strangelove - and visitors will enter the show whilst walking on a replica carpet from the iconic scene in The Shining, before entering a ‘one-point perspective’ corridor mirroring Kubrick’s famous camera technique. A vast archive of film sets and props, costumes, documents and storyboards, plus personal anecdotes from those close to Kubrick, will help us find out who he was as a person and better understand his unique command of film-making.

designmuseum.org

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The Shining, Clockwork Orange, Eyes Wide Shut, Dr Strangelove, Stanley Kubrick on set, 2001: A Space Odyssey. The Shining

Franz West TATE MODERN UNTIL 2 JUNE

Emerging in the early 1970s, Austrian-born artist Franz West developed a unique punk aesthetic, producing unconventional sculptures, furniture, collages and large-scale works which have been described as “direct, crude and unpretentious”. Visitors to this major retrospective are invited to handle replicas of Passstücke (Adaptives) – papier-mâché pieces made to be picked up and moved.

tate.org.uk

AGENDA 8 (1) GLG.indd 16

28/04/2019 21:58

Phyllida Barlow: Cul-de-Sac ROYAL ACADEMY UNTIL 23 JUNE

Acclaimed British artist Phyllida Barlow has transformed the Gabrielle Jungels-Winkler Galleries with a sequential installation conveying her interpretation of a residential ‘cul-de-sac’. Known for her vibrant, large-scale works made from everyday materials such as cardboard, fabric and cement, this particular piece sees Barlow reduce the number of elements, establishing a sense of economy and leanness. royalacademy.org.uk

Emma Kunz SERPENTINE GALLERY UNTIL 19 MAY

Although she never received a formal arts education, the late Swiss healer, researcher and artist Emma Kunz produced hundreds of geometric drawings. Inspired by spiritualism and using a pendulum to plan the structure of the works (a technique called radiesthesia), Kunz’s drawings explore philosophical and scientific themes in this, her first UK solo exhibition.

serpentinegalleries.org

EDVARD MUNCH: LOVE AND ANGST BRITISH MUSEUM UNTIL 21 JULY

He was the creator of art’s most haunting face. And now a rare lithograph of Edvard Munch’s The Scream is set to take centre stage in the largest show of the Norwegian artist’s prints in the UK for 45 years. In this striking exhibition, the British Museum explores Munch’s pioneering techniques and how his works expressed his experiences of life in a rapidly changing pre-War Europe. britishmuseum.org

AGENDA 8 (1) GLG.indd 17

28/04/2019 22:00

RENAISSANCE NUDES ROYAL ACADEMY UNTIL 2 JUNE

A riveting exhibition in the Sackler Wing, which traces the nudeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history in western art through some of the great masters of the Renaissance. Around 90 works, including those by Albrecht DĂźrer, Michelangelo, Titian and Leonardo da Vinci, are on display, helping to piece together the emergence of a dynamic visual tradition that altered the values of European art forever.

royalacademy.org.uk

AGENDA 8 (1) GLG.indd 18

28/04/2019 22:00

Cindy Sherman

NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY 30 MAY – 1 SEPTEMBER The original selfie-taker, artist Cindy Sherman is known for interrogating the illusions of modern culture. Her photography invents fictitious characters and captures herself in imaginary situations, exploring the often complex and ambiguous relationship between appearance and reality. In a world where social media warps perception, her work has never been more relevant. As such, the National Portrait Gallery’s major retrospective will span over 40 years, putting her work in the context of portraiture. Look out for her ground-breaking series, Untitled Film Stills, which are being shown for the first time ever.

All images courtesy of the artist and Metro Pictures, New York

npg.org.uk

VAN GOGH TATE MODERN UNTIL 11 AUGUST

As blockbuster exhibitions go, Tate Britain’s major new show ‘Van Gogh and Britain’ is one not to miss. 45 seminal works by Vincent van Gogh - including Shoes, Starry Night on the Rhône and the rarely-lent Sunflowers - have been brought together to depict how the Dutch painter was inspired by Britain and how, in turn, he was a source of inspiration for British artists. tate.org.uk 19

AGENDA 8 (1) GLG.indd 19

28/04/2019 22:00

ONLY HUMAN: MARTIN PARR NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY UNTIL 27 MAY

e’s been called a chronicler of our age, for good reason. Contemporary photographer Martin Parr has been capturing the eccentricities of modern life for over four decades, his intimate, perceptive and witty images documenting mass culture and consumerism. But it’s his unconventional observations of ordinary people on beaches, enjoying themselves at sporting events, celebrating and socialising - that he is perhaps best known, and Only Human: Martin Parr at the National Portrait Gallery brings together these celebrated images, alongside new work. Featuring portraits from around the world, the exhibition examines national identity - one section of the show focuses on Britain in the time of Brexit, with new works revealing Parr’s wry observations on the social climate post the EU referendum. Other themes include the British Abroad and the ‘Establishment’ with recent images taken at Oxford and Cambridge Universities and the City of London giving an insight into the obscure rituals and ceremonies of British life. Parr has also photographed celebrities throughout his career and the show includes portraits of renowned personalities including British fashion legend Vivienne Westwood, artists Tracey Emin and Grayson Perry, and football player Pelé, as well as a number of Parr’s unforgettable self-portraits. To coincide with the exhibition, Phaidon is publishing Only Human - the first major survey of Parr’s work since 2002, which brings together 200 photographs from the past two decades, as well as presenting new bodies of work.

npg.org.uk; phaidon.com 20

AGENDA 8 (1) GLG.indd 20

28/04/2019 22:00

Clockwise from top left: Sorrento, Italy, 2014; Vivienne Westwood, designer, London, England, 2012; The Queen visiting the Livery Hall of the Drapersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Livery Company for their 650th Anniversary, the City of London, London, England, 2014; Harbhajan Singh, Willenhall Market, Walsall, the Black Country, England, 2011 Left: Nice, France, 2015. All pictures ÂŠ Martin Parr / Magnum Photos

AGENDA 8 (1) GLG.indd 21

28/04/2019 22:01

MARY QUANT V&A (1) GLG.indd 22

28/04/2019 22:17

STYLE

QUANT

LEFT: Mary Quant, photograph by Ronald Dumont, c.1967. © adoc-photos Corbis Premium Historical Getty Images; THIS PAGE:The Mary Quant Beauty bus, 1971 © INTERFOTO Alamy Stock Photo

CONTRARY Mary Quant launched a fashion revolution in the Swinging Sixties. As an exhibition at the V&A celebrates the groundbreaking designer, The Glossary talks to co-curator Jenny Lister about the Mod aesthetic - and what it meant for female empowerment Words CLARE COULSON

onjure in your mind an image of London in the Swinging Sixties and it almost certainly involves young women striding into a modern new world in neat little tunics with Peter Pan collars or skinny rib knits and daring minis paired with colourful tights and patent leather boots. The creator of those era-defining clothes, Mary Quant, was at the epicentre of the King’s Road Chelsea set; she launched her brand in 1955, and within a decade she was also a household name and a global flag-waver for Britain’s thrilling new fashion scene. And now, more than sixty years later, the 85-year-old designer’s impact is being re-evaluated with a retrospective at the Victoria & Albert Museum - the first in half a century. Quant, who was made a dame in 2014, not only dressed a generation; as a businesswoman, she demonstrated what was possible at a time when a new sense of freedom was transforming society. “A lot of people found her very inspiring and she was very much part of showing women how to go for it,” says Jenny Lister, who has co-curated the show with Stephanie Wood. “She famously said ‘I didn’t have time to wait for women’s liberation, I just got on with it’ and that is exactly what she did. That female empowerment message seems really timely right now.”

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

MARY QUANT V&A (1) GLG.indd 23

28/04/2019 22:17

Mary Quant selecting fabric, 1967 © Rolls Press Popperfoto Getty Images

It certainly does – but it’s also crucial to consider the context; in the 1950s Britain was still in the grip of post-war austerity (rationing ended in 1954). “At the time young women went straight from dressing as a child to emulating their mothers in tweed suits and formal hats and gloves and matching bags. It was stifling,” explains Lister. But there was a new mood bubbling up as class divisions started to shift, and as young people began to assert their own tastes in music, lifestyle and fashion. Quant was convinced that fashion needed to be both affordable and accessible to this

Kellie Wilson wearing tie dress by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group. Photograph by Gunnar Larsen, 1966. © Gunnar Larsen

new youth movement. “The whole point of fashion is to make fashionable clothes available to everyone,” she has said. “Mary Quant spoke clearly of her ideas about fashion,” says Lister. “She opens up this whole new world of individualism and easy clothes that broke the rules.” Quant was born and brought up in Blackheath, London, the daughter of two Welsh school teachers. She studied illustration at Goldsmith’s (her parents wouldn’t let her study fashion) and she then took up an apprenticeship in couture millinery. At college she had met her aristocratic husband-to-be, Alexander Plunket Greene, and when the young couple befriended lawyer-turnedphotographerturned-entrepreneur Archie McNair, at his King’s Road coffee shop, the trio hatched a plan to open a boutique with a basement restaurant, with McNair putting up half of the initial £8000 investment. Bazaar, which opened in 1955, initially stocked clothes that Quant bought in but she began to design pieces herself, investing each day’s takings in making more clothes (one of the earliest pieces in the exhibition is a simple, printed cotton top thought to have been made

for the store in 1956). Her designs were playful but practical and inspired by Mods and the Chelsea set, and by the clothes she’d admired as a child at dance classes – there were pinafore dresses, long men’s cardigans that could be worn as dresses, men’s suiting and, of course, the miniskirts. It is the thigh-grazing skirt for which the iconic designer is best remembered. "It was the girls on the King's Road who invented the mini,” Quant once recalled. “I was making easy, youthful, simple clothes, in which you could move, in which you could run and jump and we would make them the length the customer wanted. I wore them very short and the customers would say, 'Shorter, shorter.'” These higher-thanhigh hemlines were the most literal manifestation of women’s emerging freedom at the time, a symbol of sexual liberation following the fight for female birth control - and they were quickly adopted by the second-wave feminists, like Germaine Greer and Gloria Steinem. As well as immortalising the mini, so named after her favourite car, Quant can be credited with inventing hot pants, waterproof mascara and the ‘Booby Trap’ seamless brassiere - the first real foray into ‘fashion’ lingerie. All this, from a girl who was self-taught. And yet, Quant’s lack of fashion training turned out to be a blessing as her approach was anything but conventional – her famous white plastic collars were discovered in a hospitality supplier, the colourful tights she popularised were sourced from theatrical manufacturers as, up to this point, women had worn stockings with garter belts. She also had a striking personal image which was a marketer’s dream – especially when it was set off with the sharp geometric cut created for her by Vidal Sassoon. Quant became the perfect embodiment of her look. It was an image that was soon known across the country (the trio formed the Ginger Group which would mass produce clothes for boutiques and larger stores) and then across the world. In 1960 Quant went on her first trip to America, where some department stores were already stocking her clothes and McNair struck a deal with JC Penney, which had some 1700 retail outlets across the States, and which opened up a huge new market. Quant became a global sensation, and by 1969 it was estimated more than seven million people owned at least one of her designs. And yet, despite her far-reaching appeal, Quant will forever

MARY QUANT V&A (1) GLG.indd 24

28/04/2019 22:17

STYLE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Mary Quant and Alexander Plunket Greene, photograph by John Cowan, 1960 Courtesy of Terence Pepper CollectionImage © John Cowan Archive; Mary Quant and models at the Quant Afoot footwear collection launch, 1967 © PA Prints 2008; Model holding a Bazaar bag c.1959 © Mary Quant Archive; Satin minidress and shorts by Mary Quant, photograph by Duffy, 1966 © Duffy

be known for defining the ‘London look’, perhaps enhanced by the style icons of the day - Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton, Pattie Boyd, Ika Hindley et al - who wore her designs. Lister and her colleagues have spent more than five years pulling the show together but last year’s public “call out” for pieces reaped major rewards. They received over 800 responses, with 35 objects from 30 individuals being selected, alongside personal stories and photographs. As well as original Quant clothes and mass

produced pieces there are homemade Quant designs, too, including a Liberty print dress made from a paper pattern in 1964, that the V&A did not have in its own collection. “We had an incredible response and the fact that so many people have hung onto these clothes shows how special they were to the women that wore them,” says the curator. “We’ve got many examples of

daughters who won’t let their mothers donate them permanently because they want to have them for themselves or for granddaughters.” Mary Quant was the heart and soul of her brand – another timely take-away at a moment when authenticity is such a hot topic in fashion as we career at breakneck speed into the digital age. She was the embodiment of the look she created and an icon of her time – all of which she negotiated despite being incredibly shy. It’s a contradiction that Lister finds particularly fascinating; and one that illustrates how strong her belief was in her singular vision. But she was also facilitated by her well-chosen partners, Plunket Green and McNair, who could see the potential from the early days of the Bazaar boutique. “It was quite amateur and accidental to start with but they quickly got their act together,” says Lister. Quant was in the right place, at the right time, and she had the vision to capitalise on it all. “There was a vacuum that needed to be filled,” adds Lister. “And it was extraordinary what she did. She had the natural ability for fashion, this fantastic catchy name and she was the heart and soul of the brand. She had everything she needed to conquer the world.” ‘Mary Quant’ is showing at the Victoria and Albert Museum now. Vam.ac.uk

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

MARY QUANT V&A (1) GLG.indd 25

28/04/2019 22:18

CLUB LAND MEET THE NEW GUARD OF PRIVATE MEMBERS CLUBS OPENING THIS SPRING

THE WOMEN’S CLUB

The AllBright Mayfair

ollowing the success of AllBright’s first club on International Women’s Day last year, founders Anna Jones and Debbie Wosskow OBE are now launching their second AllBright location in May. This new club on Mayfair’s Maddox Street is set to be even bigger and better than the original outpost on Rathbone Place, with interiors styled by London tastemaker Suzy Hoodless. On the first floor members will find an 80-cover restaurant by Executive Chef Sabrina Gidda champions female suppliers, serving her signature menu of refined classics. Meanwhile, the second floor is styled as a wellness destination for London women. Holistic treatment rooms and a hair and beauty salon will offer a menu spanning express blow-drys and nails to cuttingedge facials and bespoke IV drips, all curated by 58 Lifestyle founder Michal Cohen-Sagi. There will also be a dedicated GP on hand for members and a boutique all-female fitness studio offering

MEMBERS CLUBS 8.indd 26

smart, customised workouts for busy women who want to build their physical and mental strength. With a tailored programme created by Nike Global Master Trainer Joselyn Thompson Rule, the classes are designed to encourage and inspire women no matter what their strength level. However, the focus firmly remains on providing spaces for women to work in, so upstairs you’ll find beautifully designed breakout spaces for meetings and inspirational events form industry experts, as well as an in-house career development coach. The highlight has to be the fourth floor’s magnificent roof terrace which offers views across the Mayfair skyline – the perfect place to throw a summer party. Membership is from £1,150, with a £300 registration fee; The AllBright Mayfair, 24-26 Maddox Street, Mayfair, W1 allbrightcollective.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

30/04/2019 15:05

A R T S & C U LT U R E

THE SOCIAL CLUB

THE ECO CLUB

Arboretum

here aren’t many private members clubs that can boast an indoor forest, but Arboretum is the exception. Billed as an escape into an ecological oasis, its green interiors grow quietly behind Covent Garden’s bustling streets to produce a creative ecosystem for members. Here, it’s all about bringing together like-minded, environmentally-conscious Londoners looking to convene, connect and collaborate. As such, the club provides a calm and tranquil sanctuary for both working and wellbeing. As well as podcast and vlog facilities, Arboretum offers work space solutions, ranging from open desks to owned offices here can be purchased alongside membership, making it perfect for agile entrepreneurs and freelancers. Meanwhile, meditation pods, boutique fitness classes and a yoga studio provide members a place to recharge and channel the healing power of plants. Dining here takes place at The Plant Deli, which serves seasonal, sustainable and locally-sourced vegan and vegetarian food that’s free from dairy, refined sugars, additives and chemicals. But that doesn’t mean options are limited – all Arboretum members have access to the facilities at neighbouring club Library next door, offering a fine dining restaurant, pizzeria and multiple bars, including basement speakeasy, Dear Alice, as well as boutique bedrooms too. Membership starts from £1,250 a year; Arboretum, 2A Charing Cross Road, Covent Garden, WC2 arbor-etum.com

Kindred

ith over nine million people in the UK maintaining that they are often or always lonely, new club Kindred is on a mission to bring people together. Set in a Grade II listed building in the heart of Hammersmith, Kindred offers an array of cultural activities and inspirational talks in its airy coworking spaces, all day café-cum-bar. Each one is designed to help you amplify your work, create meaningful connections and build a functional social network. Events are eclectic, from piano sing-alongs and mindful kung-fu to family hackathons and board game nights. No wonder then that members here are described as ‘passionate, curious and open-minded’. Much of this culture comes from the club’s association with TED – the owner of the online talks company is one of Kindred’s financial backers – so expect plenty of speaker-led supper clubs and breakfast networking events. These take place in the club’s restaurant – a stronghold for socialising thanks to its communal dining dishes – a concept advocated by Head Chef Romulo Silva who believes that sharing food can build stronger, more resilient communities. To help make that happen, Kindred offer free ‘social’ membership on weekends and weekdays after 6pm – a tangible answer to London’s issue with social isolation and disconnection. Membership from £90 a month; Kindred, Bradmore House, Queen Caroline Street, Hammersmith, W6 wearekindred.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

MEMBERS CLUBS 8.indd 27

30/04/2019 15:05

Eco Pioneers

GUARDIANS of the PLANET Whether campaigning about climate change, shining the spotlight on sustainable style or highlighting the fragility of our oceans, these game-changing women are on a mission to save the world Words HARRIET COOPER

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 28

29/04/2019 23:25

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 29

30/04/2019 15:06

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 30

29/04/2019 23:26

ECO PIONEERS

EM I LY PENN Skipper an d o cean advo cate

leven years ago I hitchhiked on a biofuel boat from England to Australia. During the voyage, I went for a swim in the Pacific and found myself surrounded by these little fragments of plastic, which turned out to be microplastics. I’d previously had no idea about the extent of plastic pollution. So I decided to do something about it. I organised the largest ever community-led waste cleanup from a tiny Tongan island we’d passed on the trip. The more I discovered, the more there was to find out. I went on to spend eight years at sea researching and understanding how vital the ocean is to the health of our planet. Eight million tonnes of plastic waste finds its way into our oceans each year, which is impacting not just the marine ecosystems, but potentially our health. We don’t mean to treat the ocean as a rubbish dump, but essentially that’s what happening. For example, when you flush something down the toilet, the last thing you might think is that it’s going to end up in the sea. Plastic breaks down into tiny pieces, some so small we can’t measure. It’s a common misconception that you’ll see an island of plastic bottles at sea; rather, it’s a soup of microplastics. Fish, seabirds and marine mammals are ingesting the plastic as they mistake it for food. Some of this plastic can be traced in the shellfish we eat, drinking water and sea salt. It’s also probable that we’re breathing it in. There’s currently lots of research into understanding the pathways of microplastics into the body and what impact they might have. My full-time focus at the moment is eXXpedition - a series of all-female voyages around the world which focus on the relationship between plastics and toxics and female health. We’ve done 11 so far, taking women to sea to witness the problem and understand what role they can play in the solution. How can you help? Start with micro-actions. It might seem that the one plastic bottle you’re reducing isn’t going to make a difference, but that’s all it is out there - everybody’s one bottle. So really minimising single-use plastic consumption is the best place to start. And then think about what role you can play in the wider solution. Are you a designer who could be creating products differently or a chemist who can be making biodegradable materials? Or perhaps you’re great at telling stories on Instagram and can be communicating the message? It’s basically about thinking how could you be having a bigger impact than just your own footprint. I’m very much an optimist - that’s what gets me out of bed every day. I couldn’t imagine doing anything else now that I know what I know. emilypenn.co.uk

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 31

29/04/2019 23:26

talian activist Livia Firth set up Eco-Age with her brother Nicola Giuggioli in 2007. Initially a store in Chiswick offering stylish eco products as well as a sustainability consultancy, everything changed when Livia and Lucy Siegle, the ethical living journalist and author, visited a garment factory during an Oxfam trip to Bangladesh. They were appalled at the conditions. “For the first time in my life I saw how the impact of what I was wearing was having miles away from me. It was like having someone throw a bucket of iced water on you,” Livia says. “When I came back I told Nicola we had to forget about the shop and homeware etc - this is gigantic. We have huge human rights and environmental issues within fashion - what can we do about it? And that was the new phase of Eco-Age.” Soon afterwards, in 2010, Livia’s husband Colin Firth was nominated for an Oscar for A Single Man; Lucy challenged Livia to do awards season wearing only sustainable and ethical fashion, which she did, recording her efforts on Vogue.co.uk. And so the Green Carpet Challenge (GCC) was born. Like most great ideas, the GCC has gathered momentum with a host of designers and high-profile stars - from Stella McCartney and Tom Ford to Emily Blunt, Viola Davis, Gisele Bündchen and Meryl Streep - getting involved. “We decided early on that the Green Carpet Challenge would work on two levels: on the world’s red carpets to get our favourite A-listers wearing sustainable style in front of the flash bulbs, and then deep in the supply chain with real producers all over the world making systemic change,” she explains. Following on from its success, a Green Carpet Challenge capsule collection was launched in 2013, followed by the annual Green Carpet Awards, which debuted

sustainability. Working directly with brands, often but by no means exclusively fashion, Eco-Age aims to simplify sustainability by creating, implementing and communicating achievable solutions - and giving a new generation of conscious consumers fresh and compelling reasons to invest. Their Eco-Age Brandmark is awarded to those that meet key principles (transparency, fair work, traceability, pollution minimisation, animal welfare...) and is, Livia hopes, a way of deciphering the often overwhelming number of ethical validations and certifications within the industry. “We wanted to create a brandmark for sustainable excellence to encompass all sorts of different validations - which the consumer can trust because if it is validated by Eco-Age it means that it’s good and they can buy it guiltfree. Or at least have all possible information about it,” she explains. New projects include the launch of an EcoAge office in Milan, to be run by Nicola, and working with Alberta Ferretti on a special Earth Day collection to remind us to love the planet and those living within it - think recycled cashmere knits and organic cotton T-shirts with slogans like ‘Love Me’, ‘Help Me’ and ‘It’s a Wonderful World’. Livia’s advice on how to shop responsibly? “We say the first point is always, ‘Do I really need this? Am I going to wear it a lot?’ If the answer is yes, buy it. But you’ll be surprised how many times you’ll say ‘Not really’. Maybe you’ll wear it to a party and another couple of times, and put it back. That’s the starting rule for sustainable fashion.”

Livia Firth

Co-founder & Creative Director of Eco-Age and founder of the Green Carpet Challenge in style in Milan four years later, to celebrate the brands showcasing total provenance and sustainable innovation. GCC aside, Livia and her team continue to advise businesses worldwide on how best to achieve growth by adding value through

eco-age.com

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 32

30/04/2019 15:23

ECO PIONEERS

CAROLINE LUCAS G r ee n Pa r t y M P

t was while reading Jonathon Porritt’s Seeing Green: The Politics of Ecology Explained in 1986 that Caroline Lucas had her lightbulb moment. The book brought together feminism, the campaign for nuclear disarmament and the environment, all matters about which Caroline was passionate. “Suddenly everything clicked into place. I marched from my grotty bedsit in Clapham to the Green Party office - a broom cupboard above a Chinese restaurant - and signed up there and then,” she told The Guardian last year. The rest, as they say, is history (or rather her story). Caroline went on to twice lead the Party, between 2008 and 2012, and then again between 2016 and 2018, sharing the post with Jonathan Bartley. It was during her earlier tenure that she also won Brighton Pavilion in the 2010 General Election, becoming the first ever Green MP to be elected to Westminster. She’s since campaigned for - amongst other things Parliamentary Reform, Social Justice, EU integration and, of course, a more responsible Environment Policy (she is fiercely anti-fracking) and is Chair of the All-Party Parliamentary Groups on Climate Change and Limits to Growth. Since stepping down as Leader of the Green Party in September of last year, Caroline continues to be Green Party MP for Brighton, remaining steadfast in her dedication to tackling climate change. “The world’s top scientists are warning we need to halve global climate emissions in the next 11 years to avoid catastrophe. The facts demand a huge international effort – from governments, business and the public,” Caroline told The Glossary. “But those in power will only act if we tell them to. So talk about climate breakdown – to your friends, your family, your neighbours and your colleagues. Join young people on school strike. Join peaceful direct action initiatives like Extinction Rebellion (Rebellion.earth). Write to your MP. Write to your councillors. Write to your banks. This is a climate emergency. Let’s treat it like one." carolinelucas.com

EMMA WATSON ACT RESS, ACTI VI ST & ET H I CA L FASHI ON PIO N E E R

ctress and UN Women Goodwill Ambassador Emma Watson is no stranger to standing up for what she believes in, not least when it comes to the rights of women and gender inequality. She is equally passionate about ethical fashion. Since signing up for the Green Carpet Challenge in 2015, an Eco-Age initiative which commits her to wearing only sustainable pieces on the red carpet, Emma has been true to her word. Working alongside her stylist Rebecca Corbin-Murray, she not only draws our attention to the fashion houses leading the eco way (few can forget her Calvin Klein Met Gala 2016 gown made out of recycled plastic bottles) but also shines a spotlight on the lesser-known, responsibly-produced labels. Emma often uses social media as a way of spreading the sustainable message; before embarking on her Beauty and the Beast promotional tour, she launched a new Instagram account @the_press_tour detailing all the eco-fashion brands she was wearing, including Stella McCartney, Oscar de la Renta and custom Louis Vuitton. “The fashion industry is the second-biggest pollutant of fresh water on the planet. It has such a huge environmental impact and such a big human impact. And it’s just not enough for me anymore that it’s a beautiful item or a beautiful piece,” she told CNN Style. “I want to know that it’s not leaving a negative mark. … Fashion is something that touches us every single day. We get dressed every single day. I want to look good and feel good and do good, and that, to me, is luxury.”

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 33

29/04/2019 23:26

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 34

29/04/2019 23:26

ECO PIONEERS

“The Revolution is already begun. The fact of man-made climate change is accepted by most people. Through every walk of life people are changing their values and their behaviour. This continues to build the Revolution. The fight is no longer between the classes or between rich and poor but between the idiots and the eco-conscious”

Dame Vivienne Westwood The fashion designer and activist on how to tackle climate change and why we must never give up the fight

ashion designer Dame Vivienne Westwood has never done things quietly. From her seminal fetish shop ‘Sex’ on the King’s Road to collecting an OBE from the Queen at Buckingham Palace whilst wearing no underwear, the self-styled queen of punk has forever ripped up the rulebook. This rebellious streak extends to her beliefs. Bold, radical and always unique, Vivienne uses her collections and catwalk shows to campaign for positive activism; as far back as SS06, she criticised anti-terrorism laws at Paris Fashion Week, while her latest show in London tackled everything from Brexit and free speech to global-warming. “All my motivation has been because I have been so upset about what can happen to people in the world,” she explained. “That’s had something to do with my fashion clothes.” It is environmental issues which the outspoken septuagenarian, who was made a dame in 2006, holds most dear to her heart, for decades mobilising international attention around the ecological crusade and tirelessly speaking out about climate change. “I first realised about the catastrophic problem of Climate Change when I read James Lovelock’s works on the Gaia theory,” she says. “His guess was: only 1 billion people left by the end of the century. The earth behaves as if it’s human and it self-metabolises; though it’s moving nearer to the sun it manages to balance its temperature because its life forms adjust, and we must adjust in relation to this biodiversity which we’ve completely ignored. We have to learn to live in harmony with the earth”. Whether distributing her Climate Revolution Charter amongst the fashion crowds at a show (‘Climate crisis and economic crisis are like serpents who eat each other’s tail’; ‘We have wasted the earth’s treasure and we can no longer exploit it cheaply’; ‘Cut out plastic whenever possible’; ‘Tackle the need for clean energy’...), driving a tank to David Cameron’s house in an antifracking protest or standing on the back of a London bus with a microphone rallying people to convert to eco-friendly energy, Vivienne cares deeply about helping to change the world. Who can forget her appearance at the London 2012 Paralympics dressed as Queen Boudicca, inaugurating the ‘Climate Revolution’ with an enormous banner? Two years later, she famously shaved off her trademark red locks to raise awareness. ‘Vivienne cut her hair as we must all wake up to Climate Change,’ a spokesperson for her fashion label said at the time.

She is – and always has been – vehemently anti-consumerist. “We are dangerously short of culture; trained up as consumers and not thinking,” she warns. “Beware of Propaganda! Its greatest evil is Non- Stop- Distraction. It’s no good to just go to a shop and come back with bags and bags of cheap t-shirts. Thoughtless consumption is not a real choice. Andreas [Vivienne Westwood’s Creative Director, Design Partner and husband] once said to me that if everyone just bought beautiful things that they thought about and really loved then maybe we wouldn’t have this problem of Climate Change. My motto is ‘Buy less, choose well, make it last!’” Vivienne is fearless in her campaigning, going to great lengths to rally charities, NGOs and individuals to join forces and take action. Over the years, she’s worked with the Environmental Justice Foundation, Friends of the Earth, Greenpeace, and the United Nations, taking a stand on issues including fracking, drilling, industrial fishing and, a particular passion of hers, deforestation. Both Vivienne and Andreas are patrons of the rainforest charity Cool Earth and in 2013 they spent a week living with a tribe in the Peruvian rainforest, before lobbying the Peruvian government on their Forestry Programme. They also put their money where their mouth is - to date, fashion’s most eccentric couple have donated over £1.5 million to the charity. Despite her 78 years, Vivienne continues to be a woman on a mission. "I get credibility from doing the fashion, which helps me as a propagandist, gives me a voice. People will listen to you. That's one reason I think it's important to carry on,” she has said. “The Revolution is already begun. The fact of man-made climate change is accepted by most people. Through every walk of life people are changing their values and their behaviour. This continues to build the Revolution. The fight is no longer between the classes or between rich and poor but between the idiots and the eco-conscious”. “It’s a war for the very existence of the human race. And that of the planet. The most important weapon we have is public opinion: go to art galleries, start to understand the world you live in. You're a freedom fighter as soon as you start doing that.” Vivienne Westwood boutique, 44 Conduit St, Mayfair, W1 viviennewestwood.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 35

30/04/2019 14:02

Noëlla Coursaris Musunka Model, philanthropist & activist Things are moving in the right direction, but we still need greater environmental awareness along the chain - from supply to consumer - as well as greater inclusion within the industry. What are the challenges of producing sustainable luxury goods? With the potential for significant profits to be made in fashion, the incentive to plunder natural resources is huge. We’ve seen this across Africa, in particular. Congo is a nation rich in precious minerals, but this has been something of a curse; its abundant minerals supply has led to exploitation and, as a result, has been a source of conflict spanning a hundred years. But fashion can be a means of empowerment too. As an example, the women in the village of Kalebuka craft Mama Ya Mapendo (From Mothers, With Love) bags in their Community Centre that are then sold to supporters of Malaika around the world.

orn in the Democratic Republic of Congo to a Cypriot father and a Congolese mother, Noëlla was sent to live with relatives in Switzerland at age five, following her father’s death and her mother lacking the resources to care for her. When a friend entered Noëlla into an Agent Provocateur modelling competition, she won and and went on to have a glittering global career. It was during a visit to her mother in Congo that she witnessed the poverty and lack of opportunity for women in the country, and in 2007 she founded Malaika, a nonprofit grassroots organization that empowers Congolese girls and their communities through education and health programmes. Noëlla continues to work as a model as well as raise awareness for causes she is passionate about, including ethical fashion. Last year she co-hosted The Commonwealth Exchange Exhibition, which helped promote lasting sustainable supply chains, and she also spoke at Baselworld 2018 about sustainability and luxury. Her work has seen Noëlla named in the BBC’s ‘100 Influential and Inspirational Women’. What are your ethical concerns within the fashion industry? The industry has come under fire recently for the ill treatment of the environment and the people it employs, as well as for its unrealistic standards of beauty.

Who or what do you admire for their planet-conscious attitude? The Body Shop. I have always been a huge admirer of Anita Roddick, the founder of the company. Her innovative model of Enrich Not Exploit has proven to be commercially successful as well as environmentally and socially sustainable, and I hope to see the entrepreneurs of today following this example.

collection, where 10% of sales go directly towards Malaika’s critical education and health programs. The collaboration is based on our shared commitment to empowering women, through fashion and education. Roksanda Ilincic's is also a trailblazer in terms of sustainability. What are your tips for living in an environmentally-responsible way? Get back to nature. Taking a walk in your local park is a more environmentallyresponsible pastime than, say, driving to the shopping centre. But, more fundamentally, I think the root cause of environmental degradation today is a disconnect between us as a society and the natural world around us. My kids love playing outdoors and they love sports and I think it fosters in them a greater respect for natural landscapes and other species. What are your hopes for the future of sustainable fashion? Big changes are coming for the planet, whether we like it or not, and the fashion industry will have to adapt fast as the resources it relies on dwindle. We are beginning to see trends change towards the recognition of ethical and sustainable fashion that I hope will put a stop to harmful practices within the industry. noellacoursaris.com; malaika.org

What can we do as consumers to help? Make smart choices. The right brands are out there but they tend to get lost in the vast number of goods available. Research where your clothes, jewellery and makeup really comes from before you buy. And check the supply chains. What inspired the founding of Malaika? When I returned to the Democratic Republic of Congo aged 18, I witnessed the poor conditions my mother had been living in, as well as the number of kids who were out of school and severely malnourished. That was the pivotal moment when I realized just how crucial an education really is as a tool for selfempowerment. Today, Malaika comprises a free school for 314 girls, a community centre that offers programs to over 5,000 youth and adults, and 17 wells that protect 30,000 people a year against water-borne disease and illness. Tell us about the recent collaboration between Malaika, Roksanda and TheOutnet Earlier this year we released a capsule

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 36

30/04/2019 15:29

ECO PIONEERS

Orla Doherty

BBC producer of Planet Earth: Blue Planet II & expert in underwater filming

nyone who watched the powerful Blue Planet II (2017’s most watched TV series in the UK) will remember the Deep Sea episode - a mesmerising 60-minute voyage into the cold, dark abyss of the ocean. Not only did the footage uncover some weirdly wonderful underwater sights - the huge brine lakes, bubbling methane volcano, fangtooth fish and Venus' flower basket sponge, to name a few - it also served to highlight the fragility of our oceans. The woman responsible for Deep Sea was Orla Doherty, experienced producer and expert in underwater filming. For the hour-long episode, Orla and her colleagues spent more than 500 hours in a deep-sea

submarine, journeying down to the Mariana Trench in the Pacific Ocean, one of the deepest, darkest and most hostile places on earth. Orla, who spent ten years at sea studying the remote coral reefs of the Pacific Ocean before switching to television, also produced the series' final episode, Our Blue Planet, which focuses on the devastating impacts that pollutants and plastics can have on the ocean. “Our mission with Blue Planet II was to find new stories in the ocean, to win hearts and minds, and to show the beauty of the ocean," Orla has since said. “It's been a reward to see people stop and think more about how and why they are using plastic. Now we need to look at the other ways we are impacting the ocean.”

NAOMI KLEIN Author, journalist, filmmaker & activist

aomi Klein’s CV makes for inspirational reading. Since the publication in 1999 of her bestseller No Logo, in which she criticises brandorientated consumer culture, the fearless Canadian author and activist has become a global thought leader, addressing issues ranging from factory workers’ rights in Argentina to disaster capitalism. Over the past decade, Naomi’s focus has been on climate change. Arguably her most provocative work yet, This Changes Everything: Capitalism vs. the Climate (2014) tackles the war our economic model is waging against life on earth; it was on the New York Times Bestseller List, named The Observer Book of the Year and won her the acclaimed Hilary Weston Writers’ Trust Prize for non-fiction. Naomi continues to work tirelessly towards ecological justice. She is a founder of Canada’s Leap Manifesto - a series of political demands which would get the country off fossil fuels, and she sits on the board of climate-action group 350.org. Indeed, in 2016 she was was awarded the much-respected Sydney Peace Prize. Currently serving as the first Gloria Steinem Endowed Chair in Media, Culture and Feminist Studies at Rutgers University-New Brunswick, Naomi’s next book On Fire: The (Burning) Case for a Green New Deal is set to be published in September. “We need responsibility for the climate crisis - that countries that have been emitting at industrial scales for hundreds of years need to help those countries that have been at the front lines of climate change, to leapfrog to the next economy, to leapfrog over fossil fuels,” she recently told an audience at Princeton University. naomiklein.org

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 37

29/04/2019 23:27

O r s o l a d e Ca stro & C a rr y Some rs Found e rs of FAS HION REVOLU TION

ashion Revolution is the world’s largest fashion movement, initiated by Orsola de Castro and Carry Somers in 2013 following the Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh, where 1138 people died. Orsola, Carry and the team - which includes Tamsin Blanchard, author of Green is the New Black: How to Save the World in Style - head up a global campaign, working towards systemic reform of the fashion industry, with a focus on transparency. Their annual Fashion Revolution Week, this year from 22 to 28 April, serves to encourage people around the world to ask brands ‘Who made my clothes?’. “The concept of transparency isn’t as alien as it was at the time of Rana Plaza,” Orsola tells The Glossary. “Now citizens are demanding it, there is a big increase in brands publishing their first and part of their second tier supply chain, and governments are exploring the implications of making brands accountable for their production”. “Every time we produce, buy, wear and dispose of clothes, we create an environmental footprint and an impact on the people who make them, most of whom are women,” continues Carry. “Positive change is more urgent than ever if we are to tackle climate change and create a more equitable future for everyone involved in the fashion industry. We’ve undoubtedly seen increasing disclosure from brands, particularly when it comes to publishing their factory lists, and numerous innovations in the way our clothes are made, but we are now in a climate emergency and change is simply not happening fast enough. Urgent, revolutionary action is needed.” Orsola agrees: “We need to all look for solutions and act promptly. Our wardrobes are in the fashion supply chain, so we actually have a lot of power to make decisions that count, everyday, consistently and with commitment. It could be mending and repairing your clothes to keep them as long as possible, it could be buying more from second hand shops, it could be to get 'swishing' [borrowing clothes from friends] or to discover smaller independent designers. And remember, it is as important to ask #WhoMadeMyClothes as it is to remember that #LovedClothesLast”. @fash_rev

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 38

29/04/2019 23:27

ECO PIONEERS

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 39

29/04/2019 23:27

Diana Verde Nieto Founder and CEO of Positive Luxury

rowing up in Argentina under a dictatorship and seeing firsthand the need for human rights, combined with an interest in biodiversity conservation, first ignited Diana Verde Nieto’s passion for the planet and its people. She established Clownfish, a leading sustainability consultancy, in 2002 – way before sustainability became a buzzword. Five years on, she has trained with Al Gore at the Alliance of Climate Change and was subsequently honoured by the World Economic Forum as a Young Global Leader, has sat on the Sustainable Development Goals Advisory Council and has presented Sir David Attenborough with a Lifetime Achievement Award. In 2011, recognising that the luxury industry needed to wake up to sustainability, she teamed up with Karen Hanton MBE, founder of Toptable.com, to set up Positive Luxury. The company’s founding aim was to influence brands to do better and inspire wealthy consumers to buy better, from the brands that care. And so they launched the – to this day, globally-recognised and respected – Butterfly Mark, which they award to brands for their measurable impact and commitment to sustainability. How would you define ‘sustainability’? I would like to borrow Gro Harlem Brundtland’s definition of sustainability. Gro Harlem Brundtland is a Norwegian politician, who served three terms as Prime Minister of Norway and as Director-General of the World Health Organization. She coined the term back then as: ‘Sustainability means development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs’. What are your ongoing environmental concerns? It's no secret that we, humans, have a massive impact in our world more often than not negative. What concerns me is the rate of the loss of species, deforestation, ocean acidification, as well as equality and social justice. But the choices we make when we buy products and how we choose to live our lives can transform our natural world for the better. How can luxury be a positive force for good? In this age, people in the developed world are looking

to self-actualisation and purpose as the ultimate luxury. Luxury brands are inherently more sustainable; as they value quality, craftsmanship and design over quantity. The luxury industry has the capability to drive innovations through the supply chain, materials, packaging and different business models, making a positive impact in the world. I truly believe that consumer behaviour – especially when it comes to purchasing decisions – is changing: we want to buy less but better, and luxury is an enabler to that as quality and durability are inherent in the product. Furthermore, a luxury product has – more often than not – a second life. Can you tell us a bit more about the Butterfly Mark? Positive Luxury connects luxury brands and people who care about the future through the Butterfly Mark. Our goal is to help your organisation to be recognised as a thought leader of business transformation and sustainability. Being part of a collective of like-minded businesses that together can make a positive difference in the world is a competitive advantage. What has given you the most satisfaction in your sustainability journey so far? I started my career on sustainability last century, quite literally, and since then I have witnessed the world wake up to something that is undeniably important. I started my first business in this area in 2002, when convincing companies that this was important was as challenging as convincing them that they needed a website. Yes, those days did exist! Today is a different story. Generation Less – a new, ageless demographic that is united by a values-driven mindset – cares; climate change and the principles of sustainable development are taught at school; and companies want to be part of this movement of leaving a positive impact in the world. Our interactive Butterfly Mark had something like 20,000,000 impressions, which means 20 million people care about which steps brands are taking in order to have a positive impact in the world. positiveluxury.com

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 40

30/04/2019 15:33

ECO PIONEERS

GRETA THUNBERG C l i m a te a ctiv i st

-year-old Greta Thunberg has been deeply concerned about the environment from an early age (in a recent TEDx talk, she said her despair at the state of the planet contributed to the deep depression she had when she was 11). In August 2017, against the wishes of her parents, she decided to stage a school strike outside the Swedish parliament, a solitary figure sitting on a camping mat with a hand-painted banner. Her goal? To bring Sweden in line with the 2016 Paris climate agreement, which pledges to limit global warming to well below 2°C, compared with pre-industrial times. She will, she has said, keep striking every single Friday until this happens and has been true to her word. These days, however, she is not alone. Fridays For Future has become a worldwide movement, with over 1.4million young people now involved. It has catapulted Greta onto the world stage. In December 2018 she attended the United Nations Climate Conference in Poland, where she castigated world leaders for their decades of inaction. “You are not mature enough to tell it like it is,” she said at the COP24 summit. “Even that burden you leave to us children. But I don't care about being popular. I care about climate justice and the living planet.” Her impassioned speech went viral. The following month she was invited to the World Economic Forum in Davos where, again, she made a worldwide impact. To add to her CV: she’s been named as one of the world’s most influential teens by TIME magazine and recently nominated as a candidate to receive this year’s Nobel Peace Prize. “Some people can let things go. I can’t,” she says simply.

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 41

30/04/2019 16:10

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 42

30/04/2019 16:22

ECO PIONEERS

Stella McCartney Fashion designer and environmental activist

Stella McCartney SS19

t’s nigh on impossible to talk about sustainability without mentioning forward-thinking fashion designer Stella McCartney in the same sentence. And yet, when the Central Saint Martins graduate first launched her fur-free, leather-free fashion house in 2001, there were more than a few sceptics. “I was kind of ridiculed. I had a million people along the way say, ‘This is not going to work; you’re not going to have an accessories business; you’ll never be able to approach it in the way all of these big brands do,” she said at a Vogue conference. But Stella has never wavered in her commitment to ethical practices (the story goes that she famously turned down the creative director job at Gucci because she wouldn’t work with leather). From launching vegan fragrances to creating a handbag constructed of Mylo - a vegetarian material made from fast-growing mushroom root systems - Stella has always been an eco pioneer; she’s even designed the world’s first cruelty-free pair of adidas Stan Smith trainers. Steadfast in her beliefs she may be, but Stella’s talent is such that even when she’s eschewing more conventional ‘luxury’ products like leather, her appeal isn’t confined to a vegan crowd. From rock stars to royalty, everyone loves Stella – you only need look at the Royal Wedding, for which she dressed Meghan Markle for the evening reception and Amal Clooney and Oprah Winfrey for the ceremony. “At the end of the day, I’m a designer - I’m not trying to be a politician,” she has said. “I think fashion has to remain fun and luxurious and desirable, and you can live a dream through what we are creating, but you can [also] have a sense of security that you’re consuming in a more conscious way.”

To all those original naysayers, Stella is having the last laugh. Her collections are available in more than 100 countries and, after 17 years in partnership with French luxury group Kering (Gucci, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent), in early 2018 she decided to buy back its 50 percent stake in her brand. A couple of months later, she threw open the doors of her Old Bond Street flagship where, in keeping with the brand’s commitment to sustainability, the furniture is made from recycled materials, the mannequins are all biodegradable and an airfiltration system provides the ‘cleanest air in London’. Never one to rest on her laurels, Stella launched the philanthropic platform Stella McCartney Cares Green late last year, which aims to “create positive change in the fashion industry and the world at large by inspiring and empowering individuals, students, professionals and businesses to embrace sustainable practices.” And where Stella goes, others have been quick to follow - with a wealth of brands since promising to keep fur off the catwalk. But she still believes there should be laws in place to force designers to take ecoresponsibility. "In order to encourage people to have better practice in their business, to have better product for the planet and the animals who inhabit it with us, then there absolutely should be some laws in place to make it harder for people to screw the planet up.”

Stella McCartney SS19

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

ECO PIONEERS GLG.indd 43

Stella McCartney, 23 Old Bond Street, Mayfair, W1 stellamccartney.com

30/04/2019 16:23

th th 22-28 April April 22-28 2019 April 2019 2019

evolution.org fashionrevolution.org fashionrevolution.org

@fash_rev @fash_rev

FASHION REVOLUTION.indd 1

18/04/2019 13:36

STYLE The

Just Dance For ‘The Art of Dance’ Maria Grazia Chiuri, Creative Director of Dior, looked to the world of contemporary dance and a series of artists who’ve shaken up established codes. The result is a collection of ethereal sheer chiffon dresses and diaphanous floor-sweeping skirts in nude tunes. “The radicality of the gestures of contemporary dance stimulated my imagination. Dance speaks about body, about freedom and these elements are also present in fashion,” explained Chiuri, who continues to champion female empowerment. dior.com

FASHION OPENER 8.indd 45

30/04/2019 16:25

Fashion Notes A Sixties revival, the barelythere shoe and Michael Kors arrives in town Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

BAG A BAGUETTE

Often credited as the original ‘It’ bag, the Fendi Baguette was introduced in 1997 and reached cult status when it was toted by the fictional Carrie Bradshaw in Sex & The City back in 2001. Enjoying a second wave, the Baguette is back and now available in different sizes and a rainbow of colours and embellished designs. Parakeet Embroidered Baguette Bag £2,190

fendi.com

Bohemian Rhapsody

BARE MINIMUM e naked sandal is the major shoe update this season. in straps that wrap around the foot for that barelythere, minimal look will work perfectly with silk slip dresses or jeans. Alexandre Birman Leather Sandals, £465 net-a-porter.com

A hedonistic Seventies Bohemia scene fuelled the backdrop to Zimmermann’s SS19 collection. Adorned with paisley motifs and the brand’s signature ornate broderie-anglaise detailing, the billowing dresses and pretty blouses are easy vacation staples. Ninety-Six Filigree dress, £850.00;

harveynichols.com

Time Travel

SIXTIES SCENE This season, Mulberry’s creative director Johnny Coca drew inspiration from London’s Swinging Sixties, citing is as a period “of freedom, emancipation and revolution”. The colourful and very covetable collection includes psychedelic marble swirl prints, Mary-Janes pumps and box bags surely created with Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton in mind. mulberry.com

Booty Call

This May sees the fourth #SheInspiresMe Car Boot sale hosted by Alex Eagle in partnership with The Outnet to support women survivors of war. Browse car boots from designers such as Alice Temperley, Noor Fares and Charlotte Olympia who’ll be selling one-off pieces from their own wardrobes and past-season samples at hugely discounted prices. 11th May 1pm-5pm; Brewer Street Car Park, Soho, W1

womenforwomen.org.uk

Michael Kors Collection SS19

FASHION NOTES 8.indd 46

30/04/2019 16:34

STYLE

Silk-Crepe and Chiffon Maxi Skirt, £1,150

Quinn Zebra Print Calf Hair Boot, £850

Bancroft Daisy Flamingo Bag, £1,150

New Store Opening

A B O U T

TOWN MICHAEL KORS COLLECTON

SS19 Edit Daisy Double Duchesse Sun Hat, £520

Blair Daisy Platform Sandal, £620

With summer holiday season just around the corner, we can’t wait to dive into SS19 Ready-to-Wear by Michael Kors Collection featuring bright painterly florals and vibrant just-off-the-beach glamour east-luxe pieces. Kors fans should also bookmark 9 May, the date for the opening of the new Michael Kors Collection Townhouse on Old Bond Street. Set inside an elegant, six-floor Georgian building, the flagship will showcase ready-to-wear collections, footwear and menswear, while a discreet VIP salon on the 3rd floor will provide the ultimate dressing experience and exceptional privacy.

michaelkors.com

Ursula Floral Fringed Leather Tote, £990

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

FASHION NOTES 8.indd 47

Wool jacket, £1,150

Wool jacket, £1,250

30/04/2019 16:34

Interview

EARTH MOTHER Katharine Hamnett was campaigning for the environment way before it got cool. In an exclusive interview, the fashion designer and firebrand tells The Glossary why, thirty years on, she’ll never give up the fight Words EMINE SANER

ack in the late Eighties, concern for the environment was very much a fringe issue. Things couldn’t be that bad, could they? Renowned socially-conscious fashion designer Katharine Hamnett didn’t think so when, several years after she set up her label, she decided to conduct an audit of its environmental impact. “Just to make sure,” she says, that her company was in line with the Buddhist principles she had become interested in of caring for people and the planet. “I didn’t think we would find anything, but [the report] came back and it was a complete nightmare,” she says. “We were up to our neck in one of the most hellish industries on earth.” And so fashion’s most radical designer set about trying to change the industry. That she’s still fighting 30 years later – to reduce fashion’s vast negative environmental impact, which makes it one of the most polluting industries on earth, and to improve the lives of its workers – is deeply disappointing to her. But then this is a woman, you sense, who doesn’t do despair. Forthright, funny and forging her own path, Hamnett remains focused on the goal. Back then, she started trying to make her business as sustainable as possible, such as using organic cotton and doing what she could to reduce carbon emissions. “The industry was not keen, at all,” she says. “I thought I would tell everybody and everybody would change, but there was absolutely no…”

KH ISSUE 8 GLG.indd 48

28/04/2019 22:21

Sustainable STYLE

She pauses, remembering. “People who had been friendly were suddenly unfriendly. People I’d bought hundreds of thousands of metres of conventional cotton from were saying ‘why should we do organic cotton when you’re the only one asking for it?’” Even within her own company, not all of her design employees were on board. “Designers just want to be free and I would say ‘you can’t use this’.” It was, she says, “devastating” that the fashion industry could “really think so little, think that it was so unimportant, but now we know human behaviour is threatening life on earth.” Hamnett had launched her label in 1979 and was soon making her name as an outspoken activist, alongside the oversized silhouettes and utilitarian style that won her the British Fashion Council’s first designer of the year award, and later saw her appointed a CBE. In the memorable photograph of her at a Downing Street party with Margaret Thatcher in 1984, she is wearing a T-shirt with the slogan “58% don’t want Pershing” – a reference to the US nuclear missiles being stationed in Europe. “That was a practical joke on Thatcher. I had no idea it was going to resonate so far for so long. I knocked it up that afternoon.” Her first bold slogan T-shirt read “Choose Life”, inspired by Buddhism and famously worn by George Michael, but Hamnett’s messages had become increasingly political. When she made one reading “US Go Home”, again referring to US missiles, one store sent them back for fear of offending their American customers. Hamnett didn’t care.

There had been political T-shirts before, of course, but Hamnett saw an opportunity to “slick up protest – do it in a proper typeface. Before that it was rainbows in crayon. You’re [up against] some of the most sophisticated people on earth, a whole communications industry. The contribution of protest was pretty pathetic. People’s heart was in the right place but they didn’t have the communication skills you needed to effect change.” She understood the power of attention. As a successful brand, “we were given enormous amounts of media coverage, and we were also very copied, so I thought this was an opportunity to put out T-shirts with giant printing that could be read from 100 yards, putting environmental or political messages out.” Born in Kent, Hamnett grew up moving around Europe, following her diplomat father. Her parents had fostered a love of nature in her, but her upbringing was also “a political, military, diplomatic environment.” Being at St Martin’s School of Art, as it was then, in 1968 – that fevered year of worldwide protests – forged her politics. “I had come from a fairly right-wing background but then I became politicised, and became left-wing while I was at college and became aware of all the iniquities that were going on.”

“Anyone can get successful being a b*stard. I think the challenge is trying to be successful on your own terms and being a decent human being”

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

KH ISSUE 8 GLG.indd 49

28/04/2019 22:21

“Every season sustainability is getting easier – you can find the materials, people cooperate because people actually care and support you because they believe in it”

Ahead of her time, Hamnett’s vision of environmental catastrophe has been vindicated, and sustainability is the hottest topic for many fashion companies. “It’s hugely encouraging now that people are talking about it,” she says, but points out that there hasn’t been nearly enough action. The same things within the fashion industry that were bad for the environment 30 years ago are still bad, she says – intensive conventional cotton farming, the tanning process, polluting dyes, the use of plastics. “I’ve seen the growth of consumer concerns but I’ve also seen the rise of companies ‘greenwashing’ and ‘let’s pretend we’re doing something’.” For a while, Hamnett spoke at a few conferences on environmental issues but swore off them, put off by the career speakers on

the conference – and hospitality – circuit. “I was ashamed of my carbon emissions getting there.” Then she adds, typically forthright, “I realised that nobody gave a fuck.” The prospect of Brexit appals her – in time-tested fashion, she has produced T-shirts with slogans “Cancel Brexit” and “Second Referendum Now”, though she’s not wholly optimistic about their impact. “It’s fine wearing a T-shirt and going on a march, but you haven’t really achieved anything. It’s a bit of an echo chamber,” she says.

“The only thing that changes politicians’ behaviour is something that threatens their ability to get re-elected – engage politically, write to your elected representative, demand they represent your views.” Brexit, she predicts, will be terrible for the fashion business. “Half the people who work for us are EU citizens. The best part of our market is in Europe. Everything that Brexit stands for puts obstacles in the way of that.” She has already moved her label’s manufacturing to Italy in order to continue trading at lower tariffs with other markets. “We also wanted to support Italian traditional skills, but it made us Brexit-proof.” In the early 2000s, Hamnett took a break from the fashion industry, feeling disillusioned. “It was difficult to get cooperation,” she says. “I didn’t want to make a living at the expense of environmental degradation and human suffering. It’s a moral dilemma. Anyone can get successful being a bastard. I think the challenge is trying to be successful on your own terms and being a decent human being.” But with Brexit, the time seemed right to return to her simple aesthetic and social values and she re-launched her own label for Autumn Winter 2017. The rapper Kanye West had a hand in her return – he had spotted her original designs in an Italian vintage store and, seeking inspiration for his own fashion label Yeezy,

KH ISSUE 8 GLG.indd 50

28/04/2019 22:21

Sustainable STYLE

got in contact with her to ask if he could go through Hamnett’s archive. “They were speaking to the language I wanted to say,” he told the Business of Fashion in 2015. “Every single piece I saw, I connected with emotionally. She created something that I thought was relevant to where we are today.” West made Hamnett realise how timeless many of her styles were. “Throughout my career I have always tried to produce archetypes, clothes that have a reason for being, that have a kind of soul, that are fashionable now but never go out of fashion, that you keep in your wardrobe forever,” Hamnett said at the time of her return. “These were the styles he picked and these are the styles that people are driving me mad about to reissue, so here they are.” And so, two years ago, she found herself back on the fashion scene. “And it’s great,” she says. “We’re selling all over the world, in beautiful shops. And every season sustainability is getting easier – you can find the materials, people cooperate because people actually care and support you because they believe in it.” Is she aware of the influence she’s had in the fashion industry throughout her long career? She laughs off the suggestion. “I don’t know if I’ve got one.” But those slogan T-shirts alone have attained iconic status. Think of the imitators, including

fabrics, and continuing to promote organic cotton and championing legislation that would improve the lives of clothing factory workers. “People say these ideas usually take about 30 years but 30 years is too long.” While she’s alarmed by the rise of far right politicians, and the ongoing environmental crisis, she is also cautiously optimistic. “There is a mood for change and I think we’re going to see huge political change within the next five years. Hopefully a lot of it is going to be positive.” And beneath all her campaigning is a perennial love of fashion. Clothes, she says, “have a sort of magic. They are transformative. There is something still mysterious and exciting - even if they have been commodified to death.” katharinehamnett.com Katharine Hamnett meets Margaret Thatcher at a reception at 10 Downing Street wearing a T-shirt with a nuclear missile protest message

designer Henry Holland’s cheeky 2006 versions. “Those were stupid, so irritating,” says Hamnett. She didn’t mind people copying her bold style, she says, “but I was hoping [people] would copy the messages which were biting, trenchant. It was the content that was the important bit. I can’t remember what [Holland’s] said but it was just bullshit.” Now in her early 70s, Hamnett says she isn’t interested in looking back and there are no retirement plans. “I’m more interested in the stuff I’m going to do next,” she says. “It may not go down as well as the old stuff but it’s what I’m interested in.” She wants to get involved in recycling ocean plastics, using new sustainable

“I’ve seen the growth of consumer concerns but I’ve also seen the rise of companies ‘greenwashing’ and ‘let’s pretend we’re doing something’” THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

KH ISSUE 8 GLG.indd 51

M Y

L O N D O N

GLOSSARY KATHARINE HAMNETT

CAFE CULTURE

I love Maison Bertaux in Greek Street. I used to go there when I was at college in the Sixties. I’d have a coffee and a brioche. It hasn’t changed – there’s still the same paint on the walls, the same furniture. It’s incredible. 28 Greek Street, Soho, W1; maisonbertaux.com

BRITISH DESIGNER

Alexander McQueen, although I think John Galliano is a genius, despite the fact he behaves like an idiot. alexandermcqueen.com; johngalliano.com

GO-TO GALLERY

I love Tate Britain for its permanent collection, and the building. And the Victoria & Albert museum – I spent half my time at college in the library there. Millbank, Westminster, SW1; tate.org.uk Cromwell Road, South Kensington, SW7; vam.ac.uk

TOP SHOP

It’s probably Liberty, but I do also like Sotheby’s auction room – it’s like a travelling museum. Regent Street, Soho, W1; libertylondon.com 33-35 New Bond Street, Mayfair, W1; sothebys.com

PLACE TO UNWIND

Hampstead Heath. And the back of Westminster Abbey – there is some extraordinary ancient stone there which I like to go and look at. cityoflondon.gov.uk; westminster-abbey.org

HIDDEN GEM

There’s a parakeet tree in Hyde Park, near the Serpentine and the Henry Moore statue. The parakeets come down and eat out of your hand. royalparks.org.uk

30/04/2019 16:41

Interview

Pearls of

WISDOM From living off-grid in a caravan to becoming Creative Director of the ethical luxury brand Mother of Pearl, the ascent of Amy Powney is inspirational. Here she tells us why sustainable fashion should be the norm, not the exception Words HARRIET COOPER

Mother of Pearl SS19

hen Amy Powney was 10 years old, her parents uprooted her and her elder sister from their cosy home in Lancashire to live in a caravan in the middle of a field, while they renovated a barn. They wanted to be totally self-sufficient, so her father built a well and installed a wind turbine, and the family lived entirely off-grid. Fast forward two decades and Amy now resides in a desirable Victorian terrace in east London, where she is Creative Director of sustainable and ethical luxury fashion label Mother of Pearl. Since joining Maia Norman’s fledgeling brand in 2006, Amy has worked her way up from studio assistant to being at the helm; and it is she who is responsible for the once under-the-radar label becoming a cult favourite among the fashion set, who can’t get enough of her playfully feminine, street-influenced designs, with their signature pearl-embellished ruching. Triggered in some part by her upbringing, sustainability has always been at the core of what Amy does. As the momentum around the womenswear brand grows, she has used this as a platform to encourage designers and consumers to take a more ethical approach to fashion. In 2018 Amy launched No Frills, a core collection of Mother of Pearl wardrobe staples that is sustainable, organic, and socially responsible. Following on from its success, earlier this year Amy collaborated with BBC Earth at London Fashion Week, hosting a series of talks and putting together a short film to further raise awareness. As part of Amy’s ongoing collaboration with the BBC, in June Mother of Pearl is launching a capsule collection of evening wear exclusively with Net-a-Porter, created using cutting-edge sustainable production methods that will demonstrate how innovation and new technology can help to reduce the impact of fashion on the planet.

MOTHER OF PEARL ISSUE 8 GLG.indd 52

30/04/2019 16:46

Sustainable

STYLE

To what do you attribute your appreciation of fashion? I think my fascination with fashion came about when I was at school - I was interested in how brands represented being ‘cool’ or ‘not cool’ and how this expressed which crew you belonged to. We didn’t have the luxury of money for expensive clothing and I dreamt of owning Adidas ‘Popper’ trousers and a pair of Kickers shoes. I combined this fascination with my love of art and design, which is all I ever wanted to do, and so I pursued a career as a designer, joining Mother of Pearl as a studio assistant in 2006, immediately after graduating from Kingston University. Did living off-grid as a child open your mind to sustainability? Absolutely, but not in the obvious way of using renewable energy. More the lack of amenities, which gave me so much perspective on how we should respect resources and nature. What sparked your environmental and ethical concerns within the fashion industry? I read Naomi Klein’s anti-consumerist book No Logo when I was at university and I was deeply disturbed by the social issues within the industry I was about to enter. This inspired me to make my graduate collection from sustainable fabrics. Since then, and also I guess as a result of my childhood, I have had a deep-rooted concern for ethical and environmental issues and have always tried to make myself aware. In the past few years there has been a lot more information on the industry’s impact and this has incentivised me. How are you hoping to bring about change through Mother of Pearl? Firstly, we are making Mother of Pearl products as sustainably as possible and this goes for the way we run the business, too - our lunch scheme offers staff vegetarian lunches, all of which are packaging-free and locally-sourced. More importantly, I feel compelled to spread my learnings on the subject to invoke change on many levels. Since we launched No Frills, our first fully sustainable line of everyday classics, I’ve been struck by how little awareness there is, both within and external to the fashion industry, regarding environmental issues.

MOTHER OF PEARL ISSUE 8 GLG.indd 53

30/04/2019 10:40

“We have the information to know what we have done, can do, and how to save ourselves. I just wish we could all fight the same fight and make sustainability a way of life. After all, this affects all of our lives and, no matter what, that’s something we all have in common”

For each No Frills garment, we list its Sustainable Attributes online - for example, that it’s mulesing-free [mulesing is a cruel practice of removing strips of wool-bearing skin around the breech of a sheep to prevent parasitic infection], can be traced to source, and that it is made responsibly from natural fibres and is organic. This will hopefully inform people’s buying decision, but also educate them for future purchasing. You’re on the British Fashion Council’s Positive Fashion committee, and collaborated with BFC and BBC Earth at London Fashion Week, initiating the #SustainableMe movement. Did you achieve what you set out to do? For me, the appeal of this collaboration was the fact that the BBC has such a huge voice and could amplify my learnings to the wider

Ivy mules, £395

public. We worked with BBC Earth and their Natural History Unit on a short film, which showcased the wonders of our planet and the effect of the fashion industry on it; the idea was to help educate and inspire all of us to be more conscious consumers. The film has been viewed by around 300,000 people and we have engaged an audience of just under one million across platforms. I think the biggest success, however, was the effect the collaboration had on all those involved in the project and how they will be changing their habits and inspiring those around them to do the same. It’s a domino effect; the momentum will build. Can you share any future sustainable plans for the label? We have a lot in discussion right now. I am super excited to be continually innovating in our way of thinking and creating, and hopefully inspiring others to do so too. As part of our continued collaboration with the BBC Earth team, we have an upcoming capsule BBC Earth collection which will drop at the beginning of June exclusively on Net-a-Porter, to coincide with new sustainable initiatives they’re launching. The evening wear collection will consist of nine pieces, drawing inspiration from the colour of nature, and created with a traceable supply chain and 100% GOTS certified organic peace silk. In addition we have designed two sweatshirts that have been inspired by the BBC’s iconic Planet television series’ working with Colorifix, a pioneering bio-synth company who have developed a ground-breaking new dyeing process that uses ten times less water than conventional dyeing practices. Which other fashion brands do you admire for their forward-thinking attitude towards the protection of the environment? I am a big lover of Allbirds (allbirds.co.uk), which makes shoes with natural materials like merino wool, eucalyptus tree fibre, and sugar cane. I admire brands that can

MOTHER OF PEARL ISSUE 8 GLG.indd 54

30/04/2019 10:40

Sustainable

STYLE

concentrate on one thing and do it well, plus I love simplistic storytelling that has powerful scalability.

Mother of Pearl SS19

What are your hopes for the future of sustainability in fashion - are you an optimist or a pessimist? I’m on the fence and switch between the two on a regular basis; some days, I see great inspiration and on others I am faced with brutal realities. I have hope in the younger generation’s passion about climate change, but there are also some scary statistics out there. When I am sitting somewhere between the two, I mostly feel frustrated. I see so much potential and we have the information to know what we have done, can do, and how to save ourselves. I just wish we could all fight the same fight and make sustainability a way of life. After all, this affects all of our lives and, no matter what, that’s something we all have in common.

My hopes are for a greater consciousness by all; a greener future; and the impact we make in our industry to be reduced significantly. I hope to be an eternal optimist in 10 years’ time when we’ve managed to stop climate change. motherofpearl.co.uk

M Y

L O N D O N

GLOSSARY AMY POWNEY

LUNCH DATE

I love Farmacy, from its decoration and ambience to the amazing vegan food it serves. I am not a vegan, although I make an effort at all times to source responsibly. We made some T-shirts for Farmacy recently with slogans like ‘Got no beef’ and ‘Contains no artificial content’. 74 Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill, W2; farmacylondon.com

TOP SHOP

A New Tribe is a go-to for great homeware and gifts. The owner is the divine Ella, whose obsession with Morocco took her from fashion design to opening this beautifullycurated store. She recently advised me to visit Berber Lodge in the Atlas mountains and now I, too, am Berber obsessed. 92a Chatsworth Road, Hackney, E5; anewtribe.co.uk

GO-TO BRITISH DESIGNER

I love how Stella McCartney curates great design, whilst also thinking about ethics. There is no point in making dull clothing albeit with great ethics, as it won’t inspire and change the customer or our industry. I feel Stella also has a playful attitude to design, like me; if I didn’t have my own label I would be knocking on her door for a job! 23 Old Bond Street, Mayfair, W1; stellamccartney.com

MUST-VISIT MARKET

Maltby Street in Bermondsey is a food haven; also it’s a little more hidden away, so it feels like a discovery. St. John used to have a tiny restaurant there, which has since closed. But they have a bakery not so far away, so I always grab an Eccles cake on the way home - they’re a childhood favourite. 94-96 Commercial Street, Spitalfields, E1; stjohnbakery.com

SECRET SANCTUARY

My home in Walthamstow is my perfect place to unwind, having lived in a caravan, student halls and then an ‘artist’s studio’ in Hackney Wick for almost ten years, which had no heating. On the weekends I love nothing more than strolling with my husband and dog around the grounds of the William Morris Gallery, now known as Lloyd Park, which back onto my house. Forest Road, Walthamstow, E17; wmgallery.org.uk

HIDDEN GEM

We recently discovered Fitzrovia Chapel which is where we showed our last London Fashion Week presentation. The outside is relatively unassuming, but walk inside and you’re immediately hit with an abundance of decadence. It’s the perfect (non-religious) wedding venue for anyone looking. Fitzroy Place, 2 Pearson Square, Fitzrovia, W1; fitzroviachapel.org

MOTHER OF PEARL ISSUE 8 GLG.indd 55

30/04/2019 10:40

The

ETHICAL FROM BIODEGRADABLE SNEAKERS TO SWIMWEAR MADE FROM LANDFILL-DESTINED PLASTICS, THESE CONSCIOUS FASHION BRANDS REFUSE TO SACRIFICE STYLE FOR SUSTAINABILITY

Gabriela Hearst SS19

WA R D R O B E Words CHARLOTTE ADSETT

GABRIELA HEARST

Gabriela Hearst takes pride in ensuring her ecological values are placed before her pieces. Since launching her first collection in 2015, the womenswear designer who specialises in understated elegance and timeless tailoring has focused on creating a brand which focuses on ‘luxury with a conscience or, in other words, honest luxury.’ Traceability here is key - the manufacturing process is carefully monitored and materials can all be traced back to their source. For example, sheep from the family ranch in Uruguay, where she grew up and which she now owns, supply the wool. Now, Gabriela Hearst is set to become the first brand to have all of their plastic packaging and hangers replaced with TIPA – a biodegradable alternative that composts within just 180 days. gabrielahearst.com

Beulah SS19

BEULAH

After witnessing the modern day slavery and exploitation of women during a volunteering mission in the slums of Delhi in 2010, Lady Natasha Rufus Isaacs and Lavinia Brennan decided they wanted to help. And so Beulah London was born, a luxury ethical fashion label, which donates a percentage of proceeds to help empower vulnerable women in India through education and employment, and break the cycle of poverty by enabling self-sufficiency. The socially conscious duo, whose signature printed silk dresses and blouses are popular with the Duchess of Cambridge, have also founded The Beulah Trust, to put their humanitarian mission into action. Proof that fashion can be a force for good. beulahlondon.com

SUSTAINABLE CLOSET.indd 56

30/04/2019 16:51

Sustainable

STYLE

VEJA

Veja

SANDQVIST

NINETY PERCENT

MAGGIE MARILYN

24 year old designer Maggie Marilyn is certainly impressive. Not only was her first collection picked up by Net-a-Porter (she now heads up a ten-strong studio) but she is totally committed to creating an entirely sustainable brand, with an emphasis on transparency. This season, she’s adopting a revolutionary process to use rose petals as a plant-based alternative to traditional silk - the production of which kills the silkworms that make it. As well as reducing the carbon footprint of her clothes by weaving, milling and dying her wool in the same factory in her native New Zealand, she’s also an advocate of circularity - a process which takes used fabrics from unsold or older styles and turns them into new garments, cutting down on waste. Maggie Marilyn SS19 maggiemarilyn.com

Ninety Percent SS19

Sandqvist

buys directly - a move which means the money goes to those who really need it. Meanwhile, flagship stores provide a repair service for a new life for their bags, as well as a chance to buy second-hand models. Nothing goes to waste either, as bags beyond repair get taken apart and reused for parts. sandqvist.com

In 2015, fifteen years after she founded her eponymous label, New York beachwear designer Mara Hoffman decided to relaunch with a new focus on transparency. The majority of her swimwear pieces are now made using ECONYL® - a type of recycled, regenerated nylon created from recycled waste material like fishing nets and old carpets - as well as REPREVE, which recycles plastic bottles, stopping them from ending up in our oceans. Hoffman also ensures her manufacturers adhere to international labour standards; and she also provides succinct ‘wear more, wash less’ advice on her website as to how consumers can care for their garments to help them last longer (thus conserving natural resources and keeping textile waste out of landfill). The result? Better clothes which last way beyond the beach. marahoffman.com

REFORMATION

Launched in 2009 by model-turned-CEO Yael Aflalo, cult LA-brand Reformation has sustainability at its core. Best known for its vintage-inspired pretty ditsy-print tea dresses and wrap skirts, the brand prioritises plantbased fibres for its materials and upcycling deadstock fabrics, such as Recover® yarns made from old clothes and fabric waste. Designed, manufactured and shipped from the Los Angeles-based headquarters, Reformation’s packaging is plastic-free and made from 100% recycled paper products and compostable bio-based films to make its environmental impact minimal. In fact, the brand has been carbon neutral since 2015, proving a steadfast commitment to its eco-friendly ethos. thereformation.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

SUSTAINABLE CLOSET.indd 57

MARA HOFFMAN

Reformation SS19

London-based womenswear label Ninety Percent launched in early 2018 with a laudable mission: to change the landscape of fashion by distributing 90 per cent of its profits. These are divided between the makers and four humanitarian and conservation charities, with customers getting a chance to vote on where the money goes with every purchase. Creating luxe capsule basics such as T-shirts and knits, the brand uses a material called Tencel throughout the collection, which is made from renewable wood pulp. By participating in this collective effort, Ninety Percent hopes consumers will become aware of what they buy and the positive impact of their purchases. Simple, yet effective. ninetypercent.com

Accessories brand Sandqvist combines a minimal Scandi aesthetic with sustainable credentials. Founded in Stockholm in 2004, the label’s USP is its simple and functional bags and backpacks. The company uses only organic cotton produced on a small scale by self-sufficient Indian farmers from which it

Mara Hoffman SS19

There’s a reason Veja are the only trainers to be seen in right now. With a strong focus on transparency, fair trade and social and environmental responsibility, the Parisian shoe label works closely with small producers and cooperatives to ensure the best work practices and fair wages. As for materials, Veja trainers are made in Brazil using recycled plastic bottles, organic cotton and fair trade wild rubber. Meanwhile, any leather used is guaranteed to come from farms where cattle breeding does not contribute to deforestation. Following on from the success of its vegan sneaker collection, the shoe manufacturer has recently launched the Campo range. Made using waxed canvas and corn waste that is fully biodegradable, these are truly eco-conscious kicks. veja-store.com

29/04/2019 23:38

GREENis the Eco Focus

NEW GOLD

Fine jewellery brands and watchmakers are raising the bar when it comes to ethical standards and philanthropic enterprises. Here are the eco-conscious initiatives paving the way to a greener future Words MING LIU

e’ve long been told that diamonds are a girl’s best friend. But now they could also be the planet’s, thanks to the latest developments in the quest for sustainable jewellery. From man-made gems to recycled precious metals and fair trade designs, the world of watches and jewellery is shining a (green) light onto its newlyacquired ecological credentials to prove that socially-conscious luxury isn’t simply possible, it’s preferable - and a look at these shows just how well ethics and aesthetics align. But virtue-signalling aside, here is our selection of some of the most pioneering and interesting initiatives underway right now from the brands who think the planet is as precious as their pieces… 58

GREEN JEWELLERY AND WATCHES GLG.indd 58

30/04/2019 16:55

Sustainable

STYLE

CHOPARD Green Carpet Collection Diamond Necklace in FairMined White Gold, Price on application

Chopard In only six years, the house of Chopard has become a byword for ethical luxury, thanks in part to a programme instigated by copresident Caroline Scheufele. Pledging to ‘know where every piece of our gold comes from’, Scheufele has taken the brand on a journey to sustainable luxury, creating collections of exquisite high jewellery often worn on the red carpet by actresses including Cate Blanchett, Marion Cotillard and Léa Seydoux. Each of these pieces is made from reliably-sourced precious stone and fairmined gold. But the brand’s ethics aren't limited to pieces sent into the spotlight. Chopard continues to challenge itself, and since last summer has been using 100 percent responsibly-sourced gold in all its jewellery and watches, as well as working to ensure its supply chain operates sustainable, responsible practises so that no person working for the brand is overlooked. Green pieces, then, from the get-go.

15C Clifford Street, Mayfair, W1 chopard.com 59

GREEN JEWELLERY AND WATCHES GLG.indd 59

01/05/2019 13:22

Pippa Small

PIPPA SMALL Turquoise Mountain Gold Vermeil and Agate Earrings, £200; Turquoise Mountain Tamadun Agate Necklace £1,010

Known for her bohemian, gem-laden designs, Pippa Small is the go-to name for ethical jewellery. An anthropologist by training, she cut her teeth not in the well-heeled workshops of Bond Street or Hatton Garden, but in the backwaters of southeast Asia, where she worked with grassroots human rights organisations. “I saw the impact of rural-to-urban migration, deforestation and the impact of large-scale mining and loss of traditional knowledge and skills,” she explains. Small’s experience, further enriched by work with indigenous communities in central and south America and slums in Nairobi, infuses her exquisite handmade pieces, which have earned her a devoted following. Today she works with charity Turquoise Mountain - an initiative founded by HRH Prince Charles and Hamid Karzai, which trains and employs local craftsmen and women in Afghanistan - earning Small an MBE for her services to ethical jewellery. No wonder the Duchess of Sussex is a fan.

201 Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill, W11 pippasmall.com

TIFFANY True Engagement Ring with Cushion Cut Yellow Diamond, from £11,100; True Wide Ring in 18k Gold, £1,225; True Engagement Rings with True Tiffany Diamond, from £6,575

Tiffany You know the iconic blue box, but what about the philanthropic foundation? Founded nearly 20 years ago, the organisation has funded over $70 million in grants, mainly for environmental projects such as preserving coral reefs and supporting responsible mining - the latter of which Tiffany & Co is currently hammering home. In January it announced that every sourced Tiffany diamond will be laser etched - invisible to the naked eye - with the stone’s provenance. Not only does this ensure conflict-free diamonds, but full transparency. “There should be nothing opaque about Tiffany diamonds,” says CEO Alessandro Bogliolo. “Our clients want and deserve to know where their most valuable, most cherished diamond jewellery is from, and how it came to be.”

25 Old Bond Street, Mayfair, W1 tiffany.co.uk 60

GREEN JEWELLERY AND WATCHES GLG.indd 60

01/05/2019 13:28

Sustainable

STYLE

PENÉLOPE CRUZ COLLECTION FOR ATELIER SWAROVSKI Lola Long Drop Earrings, £5,790; Lola 18k White Gold Ring, £3,290; Lola Drop Earrings £4,990

Swarovski

Lab-grown diamonds are the current jewellery buzzwords, and thank goodness: man-made diamonds finally lend a long overdue, transparent, eco-friendly answer to diamond mining. Crystal virtuosos Swarovski are leading the way in the pioneering movement, with Swarovski Created Diamonds - 100 percent carbon, expert cutting and polishing and GIA certificates, save for the fact that they were made in a laboratory (versus extraction from the earth’s core using high carbon footprint-causing equipment). Little wonder the names aligning themselves with these gems are high profile. Penélope Cruz is fronting the initiative, designing an eponymous Atelier Swarovski fine jewellery collection featuring lab-grown diamonds, rubies and sapphires, alongside fair trade gold from artisanal miners in Peru. Meanwhile, the ‘created’ stones latest outing comes in the form of Swarovski’s Double Diamond Collection, a collaboration between the brand and British jeweller Stephen Webster, which uses 14ct recycled gold and Swarovski-created diamonds. Gold standard indeed.

321- 323 Oxford Street, Mayfair, W1 swarovski.com

SWAROVSKI X STEPHEN WEBSTER DOUBLE DIAMOND COLLECTION Statement Earrings, £1,990; Cocktail Ring, £2,690; Double Ring, £1,990

GREEN JEWELLERY AND WATCHES GLG.indd 61

01/05/2019 13:28

Frederique Constant A long-standing charitable outlook has seen Frederique Constant donate $50 for every ladies watch sold since 2004. When Gwyneth Paltrow came on board as global charity ambassador in 2016, the Swiss house partnered with DonorsChoose.org - a US-based children’s educational charity. As part of the launch of its Lady Horological Smartwatch, Frederique Constant donated $50,000 towards the charity’s sports programmes after students, alongside Gwyneth Paltrow, completed a 1000 Step Challenge, undertaking 1000 steps in under ten minutes. A real step towards change.

frederiqueconstant.com FREDERIQUE CONSTANT Ladies Automatic Double Heart Beat, £1,895

Rolex Never one to shout about its accomplishments, Rolex has been running its biennial Awards for Enterprise in just the same way: quietly with big impact. Over four decades the initiative has awarded 140 inspiring pioneers in three categories: the environment, applied science and technology or exploration, with each winner receiving CHF100,000 in addition to a watch. Stay tuned for the 2019 laureates - which saw some 1,000 applicants - that will be announced in June in Washington, together with longterm partner National Geographic.

rolex.org/rolex-awards

ROLEX Cosmograph Daytona, POA

GREEN JEWELLERY AND WATCHES GLG.indd 62

01/05/2019 13:28

Sustainable

STYLE

BREGEUT Marine Chronographe 5527, £21,600

Breguet

Ocean conservation is by far the cause du jour, with Breguet doing its part by partnering with water preservation foundation Race for Water and its Odyssey boat (whose crew is equipped with special Breguet Marine Date 5517s). The sci fi-like vessel is powered by solar, hydrogen and kite - and making some 30 stops around the world gathering environmental intel on water preservation. An educational booklet is being distributed to schoolchildren at each pit stop, the latest of which was the South Pacific island nation of Vanuatu on 14 April. Track its live position at raceforwater.org

breguet.com

OMEGA De Ville Prestige Quartz Orbis edition, £2,040

PANERAI Submersible Mike Horn edition, £34,800

Panerai

Omega

You can always count on Italian watchmaker Panerai to inject some zhuzh into Swiss watchmaking. For 2019, that’s about elevating the humble watch strap to take sustainable centrestage. Its new Submersible Mike Horn Edition is a recycled wonder of a pro-diving watch, where each strap is made from three recycled plastic bottles. It doesn’t stop there: the watch’s robust case is recycled EcoTitanium, while the packaging it’s sold in also hails from recycled materials. Upcycling at its finest

Last month the big horological news was Omega’s new Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Edition, which celebrated the watch that Buzz Aldrin wore when he stepped onto the moon in 1969. But Omega’s flight cred reaches philanthropic heights, too. Since 2011, the watchmaker has partnered with Orbis International and its aeroplane-based Flying Eye Hospital, which circumnavigates the globe treating and preventing blindness. Treatments today exceed 23 million in 92 countries - a figure you can add to by choosing specific pieces where Omega donates a portion of the sale to supporting the project.

panerai.com

omegawatches.com

GREEN JEWELLERY AND WATCHES GLG.indd 63

01/05/2019 13:28

Culture

CLASH As Cartier unveils its next heirloom collection, The Glossary takes a front-row seat to see a moment of design history unfold Words MING LIU

CARTIER GLG.indd 64

01/05/2019 13:31

STYLE

ove, Juste Un Clou, Trinity: the names of these jewellery collections are so synonymous with the house of Cartier that it’s hard to imagine a time when they didn’t exist in the brand’s vernacular. But in April, The Glossary was given a rare, frontrow seat to one of those moments when a name becomes enshrined. This was the launch of what is set to be Cartier’s next iconic jewellery collection – an event that only comes around every decade or so. Clash de Cartier, as its name suggests, is about contrasts. Three historic Cartier motifs punctuate the design of this new eight-piece collection: the stud, the square Clou Carré nail and the bead. Found in archive pieces such as a 1940s Boule ring or a studded jade table cigarette box, Cartier has long explored these themes independently. But after three years of experimentation, these subjects have now been merged into a single aesthetic for a design that’s fresh yet rebelliously aristocratic and heirloom. Tension, after all, is at Clash de Cartier’s heart: the round beads playfully defy the square Clou’s geometry and structure, providing movement that flows through the collection with edge and bite. This itself is a technical feat, achieved

by a line of tiny pointed studs that divide each gem and which individually dance on the rose gold collection (from £1,820). Soft but sharp, revolutionary but romantic, Clash is formal yet casual, trendy yet vintage, avantgarde yet classical. No wonder then that actress Kaya Scodelario, an edgy English rose who captures the line’s duality, has been chosen as a fitting front-woman for the new collection. Alongside the solid rose gold collection, there are also three limited-edition coral designs (from £9,500), set with 100 per cent natural coral beads. A ring, bracelet and earring ooze volume and dimensionality, with their earthtoned beads punctuated on either side by polished rose gold studs. But it’s the earring which truly embodies Clash: coolly sold as a single, it doubles as either a classic earing or rests higher as an ear cuff. The collection launched with a seriously starstudded “Très Particulier” opening gala at Paris’s Conciergerie – the former medieval prison that famously hosted Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI before their beheadings.

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

CARTIER GLG.indd 65

Speaking to guests including Hollywood heavyweights Sofia Coppola, Jake Gyllenhaal, Claire Foy, Tilda Swinton and Monica Bellucci, Cartier’s president and CEO Cyrille Vigneron drew comparisons between the French capital and Clash’s inherent dichotomies: “It’s iconic and ironic, super cool and super hot, preciously punk and seriously fun.” Afterwards, guests saw performances from Christine and the Queens, Billy Idol and 2 Many DJs under the former prison’s dramatic arches. The celebration of opposites continued the following day at the Place Vendôme, with more mashups between Beth Ditto and Marisa Berenson, and food from New York’s Ghetto Gastro, a culinary pop-up with a hip-hop Bronx vibe. If the opposites-attract theme felt overegged, it was only because Clash de Cartier is channelling the spirit of today’s modern and multifaceted woman. One who is feminine but fierce, independent yet free spirited, driven but curious and open to the world. In essence, a super-cool clash of attitudes. cartier.com

13/05/2019 13:13

The Moisturiser.

Discover the secret to deeply replenished skin and renewed radiance. The iconic Dr Sebagh Rose de Vie Serum instantly and intensively moisturises without clogging pores, calms redness, smoothes skin and leaves it glowing. At the heart of the Dr Sebagh Serum Bar (visit drsebagh.com/serum-bar), use this versatile super-serum alone or mixed with any serum or moisturiser.

DR SEBAGH 8.indd- The 1 Glossary Magazine Display Ad - The Hydrator, The Anti-Ager, The Brightener & The Moisturiser.indd 8 140119 Dr Sebagh

30/04/2019 10:04 13:40 16/01/2019

BEAUTY

Good Foundations While the beauty industry has certainly made inroads into inclusivity, there’s still a way to go. One person leading the charge is Sharon Chuter, founder of Uoma Beauty who decided to launch a new makeup brand “to represent the changing face of skin tones across the world”. The innovative collection includes a hero range of 51 foundation shades, available in six different formulations that uses the Fitzpatrick scale to measure how skin reacts to sunlight, so it can cater to the unique needs of skin colour groups – or as Uoma calls it, “skin kins”. uomabeauty.com

BEAUTY OPENER_8 UOMA.indd 57

30/04/2019 23:10

Beauty Notes

The game-changing foundation, beauty sleep in a bottle and new ways to glow this spring

See The Light

Turns out that whilst you’ve been worrying about UV rays, another enemy has been playing havoc on your skin. Emitted by digital devices, HEV (high energy visible) light can also cause dermatological damage. Thankfully, Dr Sebagh’s new Sun & City SPF 50+ (£60) is designed to protect against HEV light, as well as pollution, sun damage and oxidative stress to keep city skin happy and healthy.

drsebagh.com

Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

Sterling Silver

Harnessing the power of Silver Hydrosol™ (an ingredient prized for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial properties) ARgENTUM Apothecary has just added La Lune de Velours Cleanser (£98) to its award-winning range. Made from 99.7% natural origins, the oil-to-milk formula teamed with the natural sea sponge leaves skin feeling clean, supple and silky-smooth.

argentumapothecary.com

Flower Power

BRIGHTEN UP With white camellia and ginger as two of its key active ingredients, Chanel’s new Hydra Beauty Camellia Water Cream (£48) is the perfect seasonal switch-up. The ultrahydrating, but lightweight fluid moisturiser illuminates skin in an instant as well as protecting it from all those nasty free radicals - creating a radiant, plumped, dewy base. chanel.com

Drift Away

Struggling with sleep issues or stress-induced anxiety? Our go-to solution is Bamford’s brilliant B-Silent range which includes the stand-out Organic Body Oil (£42). Blended with soothing Roman chamomile, cannabis sativa, Lavender Flower and vetiver root essential oils, when applied generously this aromatic oil will help calm a racing mind and, from our experience, encourage a much deeper sleep.

bamford.com

BEAUTY NOTES 8.indd 68

30/04/2019 23:11

Glow-getter Known as the ‘The Queen of Glow’, A-list makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury’s latest launch will not disappoint. The Glowgasm collection features two Face Palettes (£60); two new shades of her Collagen Lip Bath lip gloss (£25), a new eyeshadow quartet Dreamgasm Luxury Palette (£39) as well as the permanent return of the best-selling cream eyeshadows Eyes To Mesmerise (£22). The hero product is the twist-and-squeeze highlighter-blush-hybrid Beauty Light Wand (£29) that give cheeks a luminous soft-focus sheen. charlottetilbury.com

Pop-Up Shop

Midas Touch

With 25 years of experience, 500 magazine covers, 3,300 runway shows under her belt Pat McGrath is without doubt the most influential and in-demand makeup artist in the world. To celebrate Pat McGrath Labs finally landing in the UK, Selfridges is transforming its Corner Shop space into ‘ e Mothership’, a gold-themed three-month pop-up designed by Pat herself. Alongside the full make-up collection you can also shop Pat’s edit of limited editions and unique one-offs. Worth its weight? We think so. selfridges.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

BEAUTY NOTES 8.indd 69

30/04/2019 23:20

CONSCIOUS BEAUTY.indd 70

29/04/2019 22:08

Sustainable BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Conscious BEAUTY Want to introduce a bit more eco-mindfulness to your beauty regime? Here’s how to be kinder to the planet in the bathroom Words ELIZABETH BENNETT

he beauty industry has had a long overdue makeover. Indeed, alongside a growing awareness of what we put in our bodies and how this affects the planet, sustainably-sourced, plant-derived skincare and cosmetic products are flying off the shelves. Set to follow in the footsteps of the organic food, non-toxic cleaning and wellness industries, Statistica data suggests the global natural beauty market, which was valued at approximately 11 billion US dollars in 2016, is predicted to reach 21 billion US dollars by 2024. Simultaneously, recent warnings from the UN that we have twelve years to limit a climate change catastrophe and the topic of single-use plastic making headlines, shopping consciously has taken on new meaning. While changing your buying habits can feel like a minefield at times, the old adage of ‘every little helps’ really does ring true here, and your beauty routine is a good place to start.

CLARIFYING CLEAN BEAUTY

As the natural market moves from niche into the mainstream, the confusion around terminology increases. Some brands have been accused of ‘greenwashing’ when co-opting marketing language, packaging styles or PR ideas from natural beauty but not selling products that align. In fact, Soil Association, the UK charity responsible for certifying organic products, found that 76% of consumers feel misled by some labelling on beauty products. The crux of this issue is a semantic problem. Unlike in the food world, there is no legal definition of ‘natural’ or ‘organic’ within cosmetics. Subsequently, the best advice for confused customers is prioritising brands that preach transparency and are upfront with their ingredients. You can also identify if a product fits your own stipulations - say vegan, organic or recyclable - by a number of certification symbols (see our handy chart).

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

CONSCIOUS BEAUTY.indd 71

29/04/2019 22:08

POWERFUL INGREDIENTS

Likewise, look to brands that offer quality ingredients that are ethically sourced. Luckily, natural formulas and high performance results are no longer mutually exclusive. WILDSMITH SKIN, a new brand inspired by the arboretum at Heckfield Place in Hampshire, offer natural-based products with cosmeceutical results. “We invested time into sourcing the finest natural ingredients from the best suppliers around the world and working with the latest technology to refine the formulations until they were perfect,” Managing Director Maria Lam explained. “The range has already undergone in-depth consumer testing, as well as clinical trials, and the results have been incredibly positive,” she added. This is the same thought process makeup artist Arabella Preston had when creating her own brand, VOTARY. After trialling hundreds of products throughout her career, Preston discovered the powers of a pared-back routine and potent natural oils. “I found oil cleansing was truly transformational on my own skin. At the same time I was using facial oils to prep the skin of my clients so started blending my own oil combinations at home,” Preston told us. Four years since its launch, Votary oils are still created using the highest quality natural ingredients in small batches in the UK.

BUYING RESPONSIBLY

Buying from independent British brands not only supports local businesses and communities but cuts air miles too. Take AUSTIN AUSTIN, an organic brand for hands, hair and body that was created by a father-daughter team and run from their home in East Anglia. “We source locally where we can as it reduces our carbon footprint. Our 100% post-consumer recycled bottles are made in East Anglia, as are our boxes and, of course, we make and store all our products close to home too,” Bessie Austin explained. The brand collaborates with artists on their packaging and their shelfie-worthy bottles appeal to style-conscious customers. Subsequently, they are stocked in a number of design-led stores such as Alex Eagle. Likewise, Hackney-based MONTA MONTA, a smallbatch skincare brand, are always looking for ways to work more sustainably and boost their local area. “We use espresso grounds collected from nearby coffee shops to create the exfoliating scrub, and recently produced an all-purpose balm in collaboration with urban beekeepers The London Honey Co,” the brand’s founder Monty Ashley-Craig told us.

CONSCIOUS CONSUMERISM

While the beauty industry has always been linked to charitable causes (just think Estee Lauder’s ongoing Breast Cancer Campaign or MAC’s HIV initiative), in 2019 brands are taking it a step further than corporate social responsibility and creating fully-fledged social enterprises. For example, ethical luxury body

CONSCIOUS BEAUTY.indd 72

29/04/2019 22:08

Sustainable BEAUTY & WELLNESS

brand THE SOAP CO provides training and work opportunities for people who are visually impaired, have disabilities or are otherwise disadvantaged. While fragrance brand SANA JARDIN, the first sociallyJARDIN conscious luxury fragrance house, source materials from women’s collectives in Morocco. HAECKELS, the Margate-based skincare brand founded by volunteer beach warden and coastal enthusiast Dom Bridges, harnesses the power of locally-harvested seaweed. He is passionate about coastal sustainability and regularly hosts beach clear-ups of the Margate coastline. Volunteers who collect a bag of plastic waste receive a free Haeckel's body wash in return, while fans further afield can receive a 40% discount online for cleaning their local beach.

THE BLUE PLANET EFFECT

It’s become impossible to ignore the single-plastic crisis, and the damage it’s doing to the planet and its wildlife. The beauty industry plays a big part in this problem with Zero Waste Week reporting that more than 120 billion units of packaging are produced every year by the global cosmetics industry, most of which are not recyclable. The UK government has made some positive change to counteract this by banning microbeads (the tiny pieces of plastic used in exfoliating products) in January 2018. Wet wipes, made of non-biodegradable plastic and responsible for 93% of blockages in UK sewers, are set to be prohibited next. In the meantime, it’s up to beauty brands and consumers to do their bit. Luckily there’s a growing breed of brands offering plastic-free solutions. In fact, market intelligence agency Mintel declared ‘Sub Zero Waste’ as the biggest beauty and personal care trend for 2019. “It’s a movement towards a ground-shaking new archetype for the beauty and personal care industry. Whether reducing or eliminating waste altogether, if brands don’t change their approach now, they will become insignificant and may not exist in the future,” Andrew McDougall, Associate Director, Mintel Beauty & Personal Care, commented.

SMART PACKAGING

Choosing brands that shun single-use plastic is crucial. Instead look for products housed in recycled or recyclable plastic (ideally both) or other recyclable materials such as paper, cardboard or glass. For instance, luxury natural brand TATA HARPER house all their products in glass pots while BYBI, the beauty brand created by blogging duo Clean Beauty Insiders, offer a mix of glass and a bioplastic material derived from biodegradable sugarcane. It’s not just independent brands tackling the issue, bigger brands are offering solutions too. GARNIER have partnered with Terracycle, a collection program that turns nonrecyclable packaging into new products (simply post items with a freepost label), and Estee Lauder-owned ORIGINS run a program called Return to Origins that will recycle any cosmetic packaging regardless of brand brought to the store.

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

CONSCIOUS BEAUTY.indd 73

29/04/2019 22:09

Sustainable BEAUTY & WELLNESS

THE MILKMAN MODEL

According to research conducted by The LCA Centre, if you buy a refill instead of a completely new product, you save 70% on CO2, 65% on energy and 45% on water. One company spearheading this movement is luxury organic makeup brand KJAER WEIS. Their products are housed in keep-forever metal cases which can be refilled when finished. “The Refillable system is a core piece of the brand’s DNA. I was motivated to do it for a number of reasons: plastic’s long life span, the uncertainty of it even reaching a recycling facility and the staggering fact that the full process of recycling can actually consume more resources than producing the material from scratch,” Kirsten Kjaer Weis, founder and director, commented. A growing breed of brands are offering refill services too, and these often save you money as well as waste. For instance, cult fragrance house LE LABO offer customers 20% off when they bring an empty bottle to be refilled in one of their stores; while you can refill Italian hair care brand DAVINES’ bottles at any salon that stocks their product for a discounted rate. Similarly skincare brand REN,, who have pledged to reach zero waste by 2021, have recently launched a partnership with LOOP, the first ever waste-free shopping platform. From the autumn you will be able to buy six of their cult products in glass bottles that can be refilled over 100 times. Even better, the service picks up the empty bottles from your house and replaces them with a full one.

360 SUSTAINABILITY

While shunning plastic is one thing, a 360 approach requires thinking about the environmental impact at every stage of the supply chain. After all, it’s often production methods and factory emissions that can cause huge environmental impact. NEAL’S YARD were ahead of the curve when they became the first UK high street retailer to be certified CarbonNeutral® in 2008, and they continue to set an example to this day with their Dorset factory run on solar panels and 100% renewable energy. Aforementioned Davines operates a similar system, and have been using Sustainable swaps entirely renewable electrical energy to supply their factories Simple switches to and offices since 2006. save the planet Beyond emissions, water waste is also now in the spotlight. According to the World Wildlife Fund, by ➜ Use solid soap bars instead of 2025 two-thirds of the world’s population may face water shower gel shortages, and subsequently Cosmetics Business named ➜ Buy hair products in salon size ‘waterless beauty’ as one of their top trends to watch in bottles to reduce waste 2019. While, of course, streamlining your shower time and ➜ Skip the face wipes or cotton holding back on the baths is one thing, cutting water from pads and remove makeup your beauty products themselves helps too. with a muslin cloth, flannel or PINCH OF COLOUR, founded by beauty industry konjac sponge veteran Linda Treska, is pioneering this movement with their range of totally water-free makeup. “Our company's mission is to bring awareness to the global water crisis, and through our sustainable and philanthropic work inspire our customers and ultimately create a social change,” Treska commented. Plus, by using skin-loving botanicals, natural oils and fruit butters instead of water (a filler in many cheaper products), Treska creates products that are potent and high performing. Which just goes to show, it’s possible to look good and go green at the same time.

➜ Swap a plastic toothbrush for a biodegradable bamboo one ➜ Choose plastic-free dental floss and cotton buds ➜ Opt for a natural deodorant over a spray aerosol ➜ Make sure you have a recycling bin in your bathroom

CONSCIOUS BEAUTY.indd 74

30/04/2019 23:31

The Anti-Ager.

The super anti-ageing serum with over 95% active ingredients – the highest concentration of any skin care product– including Resveratrol (the youth molecule), Vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and three anti-ageing peptides to build up collagen. Dr Sebagh Supreme Maintenance Youth Serum powerfully rejuvenates, repairs and restores radiance. This ground-breaking multi-tasker can be used alone or mixed with any serum to create a bespoke ‘ageing-maintenance’ treatment. Available in-store and at drsebagh.com

DR SEBAGH 8.indd- The 1 Glossary Magazine Display Ad - The Hydrator, The Anti-Ager, The Brightener & The Moisturiser.indd 9 140119 Dr Sebagh

30/04/2019 10:05 13:40 16/01/2019

Ke e p i n g i t

CLEAN

WHETHER YOU’RE AFTER A NON-TOXIC MANICURE, CHEMICAL-FREE HAIR COLOUR OR A PLANT-BASED FACIAL, THESE ECO-FRIENDLY BEAUTY SALONS MEAN YOU CAN PAMPER YOURSELF WITH A CONSCIENCE

ONE-STOP-SHOP

The Organic Pharmacy Content Beauty

art-organic skincare store, part-naturopathic clinic, part-beauty salon, Content Beauty is a one-stop shop for your clean beauty needs. Imelda Burke opened the boutique over a decade ago, after noticing the levels of synthetics present in a cream she was using. So she immersed herself in the study of non-toxic, plant-based skincare, quickly becoming the go-to woman in London for natural, organic beauty. Brands stocked in the boutique - including De Mamiel, May Lindstrom, plus lesser known indie labels such as Kahina Giving Beauty - are hand-picked from around the world, and all must meet a strict criteria which ensures no nasties. Stop in for a facial using green ‘farm-to-face’ beauty brand Tata Harper, or try their ‘Detox your make-up bag’ service, which helps you switch to more eco-friendly alternatives. 32-24 New Cavendish Street, Marylebone, W1 contentbeautywellbeing.com

pioneer in the organic beauty world since husband and wife team Margo and Francesco Marrone opened their first shop on the Kings Road in 2002. The concept was simple: it was an emporium for natural beauty and wellness, where expert staff could advise on treatments and products for your needs, all free from toxins and organic. Based on homeopathic principles and herbal medicine, the brand’s skincare range promises potent results, using over 250 organic medicinal herbs hand-blended in a factory in London to reduce any carbon footprint. Now an international brand, The Organic Pharmacy has stores and spas across the country and four in the capital offering myriad treatments. Try one of the detox Lunar Cleanses which scans your vitamin and mineral levels and uses massage to reduce bloating. 396 Kings Road, Chelsea, SW1 and other locations in London; theorganicpharmacy.com

CLEAN BEAUTY SPOTS 8.indd 76

30/04/2019 23:37

Sustainable

BEAUTY & WELLNESS NAIL SALONS

Le Fix

AMA Nails

illing itself as “London’s green beauty haven”, beauty bar Le Fix stocks a curated range of emerging clean brands you won’t find elsewhere. The natural, organic and vegan treatment menu ranges from detox facials and vegan waxing through to bespoke make-up consultations, but it’s the manicures which prove the most popular. Offering the Jessica soak-off gel polishes – all of which are 7-free, cruelty-free and 100% vegan – Le Fix is the perfect eco-luxe pampering pitstop. 45 Newman Street, Fitzrovia, W1 lefix.co.uk

ounded by fashion industry approved session nail stylist Ama Quashie, AMA opened in Brixton last winter with some seriously clean credentials. The natural nail salon uses products such as 10-free formula polishes; Kure Bazaar for varnishes; LA-based gel system NCLA, which is 7-free, vegan and cruelty-free; paraffin-free wax alternative Ecofin for treatments; and skincare brand Pinks Boutique for scrubs and creams. The eclectic living room style decor and considered playlist gives the place a home-away-from-home vibe. 340 Coldharbour Lane, Brixton, SW9 amathesalon.com

Ena Salon

he latest salon from stylist and colourist Anita Rice who, along with longtime friend Stephen Buller formerly of Spitalfield’s Pimps and Pinups, builds on the ethos of Ralph and Rice in Shoreditch with the opening of their joint venture Buller and Rice. The duo is passionate about environmental awareness and eco-conscious hairdressing, turning to Hackney-based studio Lozi Design for custom fittings including stations made from compressed hay and recycled yogurt pots. Oway is the haircare brand of choice - created sustainably using high-grade, natural ingredients, plus there’s a refilling station to encourage single-use plastic. 36a Stoke Newington Green, N1; bullerandrice.com

ffortless elegance meets an eco-friendly philosophy at Ena, Covent Garden’s most sustainable salon that celebrates its 10th birthday this summer. Spread over four floors, the beautiful Grade-II listed Georgian townhouse offers an airy, stylish space full of upcycled furniture and plants, and with a friendly ambience. The products come from Davines, the Italian family-run business with a green ethos, with Ena Salon being the brand’s flagship stockist in London. 5 Great Queen Street, Covent Garden, WC2; enasalon.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

CLEAN BEAUTY SPOTS 8.indd 77

ust opened this spring, Dalston’s holistic nail art studio STILL London is the new natural beauty hotspot in the city. Cruelty-free and vegan-friendly manicures and pedicures are on offer here, using toxin-free gels by Orly, a 12-free US brand, and varnishes by Kure Bazaar, the Parisian brand which contains a 10-free formula. A haven of dusky pink and grey, complete with marble nail tables, the zen-like studio also sells crystals and offers magical, high vibration, holistic therapies by East of Indigo. 450 Kingsland Road, Dalston, E8 still-london.com

HAIRDRESSERS

Buller and Rice

STILL London

Gennaro Dell’Aquila

ith a focus on creating beauty through nature, Gennaro Dell’Aquila’s Notting Hill and Wimbledon salons are on a mission to put an end to chemical colouring. All the dyes used here are created by hand on site using only 100% natural and organic herbs, roots and flowers, which means no chemicals, parabens, carcinogens and synthetic fragrances. After a consultation, the blends are mixed for the individual ensuring a truly personalised service. The end result? Stronger, healthier hair with brilliant shine - and it’s kinder to the planet, too. 154 Arthur Road, Wimbledon, SW19; 2 Wellington Terrace, Bayswater, London W2; gennarodellaquila.co.uk

30/04/2019 23:37

TGM_MAY18_220X285_V1:Layout 1

22/5/18

14:01

Page 1

everyone triyoga... 6 beautiful locations 750+classes a week 25+ styles of yoga expert teachers pilates gyrotonic + barre treatments teacher training organic cafĂŠs lifestyle shops at triyoga london www.triyoga.co.uk

Untitled-1 1

15/06/2018 19:57

Lyle’s London Clean, fresh and flavoured with hope, spring might just be the perfect time for sustainable eating. Taking centre stage on the socially-conscious dining scene is Lyle’s London, James Lowe’s ethical eatery in Shoreditch serving simple, seasonal British food that’s big on taste, low on environmental impact. Find out about London’s other top sustainable restaurants on page 86. lyleslondon.com

FOOD OPENER 7 GLG.indd 65

28/04/2019 22:34

Tasting Notes The latest openings and places to know across the capital

Turkish Delight

There’s no dumbing down flavours at Yeni, chef Civan Er’s first London launch: the coffee is thick and black, the feta has been aged for a year and the wine list features bottles from Greece and Turkey. The hit Istanbul restaurant has travelled well and is making its mark in Soho, but with desserts like kadajifi coated custard fritters and mozzarella ice cream it’s little surprise. 55 Beak Street, Soho, W1 yeni.london

Compiled by RACHEL WALKER

CAFE CULTURE

The team behind The Wolseley and The Delaunay are bringing highend neighbourhood dining to St John’s Wood. Their latest opening, Soutine, takes inspiration from the boulevard cafés of Paris: stainedglass skylights, hand-painted murals and a marble top bar seating fifteen - ideal for a morning coffee and pastry or a glass of something stronger later in the day. 60 St Johns Wood High St, NW8; soutine.co.uk

NOT SHORT OF A BOB...

It’s over a year behind schedule, but then you can’t rush perfection. As Bob Bob Cité, the sequel to the Soho institution, finally arrives in town, there’s no scrimping. Costs have allegedly risen to £11 million as the ‘Press for Champagne’ buttons are installed, caviar is shipped in and the Methuselahs arrive. With French chef Eric Chavot at the helm, the signature filet de boeuf en croûte is likely to be on point - so save this for a blow-out and come with an appetite. 122 Leadenhall Street, City, EC3 bobbobricard.com

Top Spot

HIGH SOCIETY

The Goring’s first restaurant in over a century will see leading seafood chef Nathan Outlaw set up at HM The Queen’s favourite lunch spot. The two Michelin-starred chef will be a regular in the kitchen keeping a close eye on dishes before they’re whisked out to the dining room, where guests will have a view over the hotel’s manicured lawns. 15 Beeston Place, Westminster, SW1 thegoring.com

WINNING STREAK

Last summer, a table at St Leonards in Shoreditch was one of the most sought-after in London; just one year on, chefs Andrew Clark and Jackson Boxer have done it again with their latest launch, Orasay. Super creative dishes have a seafood focus - the puffs of fried bread cushioning a sole. 31 Kensington Park Rd, Notting Hill, W11 orasay.london

FOOD NOTES 8 GLG.indd 80

28/04/2019 22:30

FOOD & DRINK

AFTER HOURS

WORTH THE WAIT

Private members’ club The Court reads like a ‘who’s who’ of London’s hospitality scene: Tom Sellers (behind Michelin-starred Story) is the executive chef, Ryan Chetiyawardana (2017 winner of Best Bar in the World) will oversee the drinks; even the flowers and art have attracted worldclass curators. It all comes together in Gatsby-esque decadence where live music mixes with the clink of Martini glasses. The food is as elegant as you’d expect, with classics like fruits de mer and steak-frites forming the backbone of the menu. 9 Kingly Street, Soho, W1

Chef Endo Kazutoshi has dedicated himself to the art of sushi - and finally the third-generation sushi master and former executive chef of Zuma has struck out on his own. The result? Well, Giles Coren awarded Endo the perfect score, declaring it, “probably the most perfect meal I have eaten in a restaurant in more than 20 years as a critic.” The only foreseeable downside is bagging a seat, with reservations for this 18-seat restaurant taken three months in advance. Television Centre, 101 Wood Lane, White City, W12 endoatrotunda.com

thecourt.co.uk

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

FOOD NOTES 8 GLG.indd 81

28/04/2019 22:30

Interview

S kye HIGH Pioneering chef Skye Gyngell has put sustainability on the menu of her London restaurant Spring with the elimination of single-use plastic and a savvy initiative to reduce food waste. Here, she shares her hopes for a greener future Words HILARY ARMSTRONG

kye Gyngell walks into the Salon at Spring and greets me graciously, but apologetically. She’s terribly sorry, she says, but she has no note of our appointment and isn’t sure she’s prepared. What was it again I’ve come to discuss? ‘Sustainability’, I remind her, at which point the 55-year-old Australian chef relaxes visibly: this is her specialist subject. Of course she can talk. At the start of 2018, Gyngell made headlines with her decision to eliminate single-use plastic from her London restaurant Spring at Somerset House within the year. Gyngell had recently attended a talk by Sian Sutherland, founder of campaign group A Plastic Planet, and had come away ‘heartbroken and shocked’. She wanted ‘in a small way’ to be part of the solution. But first, she ‘catastrophised’. “I saw plastic everywhere”, she says. “I do genuinely worry about my children, my children’s children,” she confesses, lowering her voice to a whisper (her daughter Evie is within earshot). “They’re going to live with gas masks on. The world is in a catastrophic state and that is the truth. If we don’t start to attend to the health of the planet, we are f *cked. There’s no other way of putting it.”

FOOD SKYE GLG.indd 82

30/04/2019 10:44

Sustainable FOOD & DRINK

“The world is in a catastrophic state and that is the truth. If we don’t start to attend to the health of the planet, we are f*cked. There’s no other way of putting it”

Sutherland’s advice was to stop panicking and choose just a handful of things she could cut out. At first, it seemed impossible – what to do about the 3,600km of cling film Spring got through in a year? The stack of 30,000 plastic-coated ice cream cups? – but, in retrospect, it was easy. “We went cold turkey on it,” she says. “We bought lids, bee’s wrap, cellulose. We basically started to label properly instead of being lazy.” Plastic straws, pens, cups and soap dispensers all had to go. The last remaining rogue items are bin bags and (reusable) insulating sheets that protect the fragile salad leaves that come to Spring twice a week from Fern Verrow farm in Herefordshire. “We’re all in it together,” she insists. “We have to be. Otherwise it’s just Skye being wacko.” Gyngell ascribes the foundations of her interest to growing up in 1970s Sydney in ‘a macrobiotic household that did yoga every morning’. “My father [media baron Bruce Gyngell] was always going to India to do workshops. We grew up believing you are what you eat and that you could cure disease through the principles of macrobiotics,” she recalls. “Obviously, especially

as teenagers, we all rebelled against that because we wanted to be the same as everyone else. We wanted hamburgers and Caramello Koala bars after school. But it’s funny what you almost come back to.” Not that macrobiotics was for her, nor what she dubs ‘I-centred’ eating. “We can’t talk about our own health without talking about the health of the planet. It’s very narcissistic that ‘chia seedsavocado-Fiji water’ school of eating. I think it’s all crap. There is no ‘superfood’ that’s going to turn you into Superman.” Our conversation rarely strays too far from sustainability for the simple reason that Gyngell, once she gets started, becomes increasingly impassioned. It’s impossible not to be swept along. There are, however, so many other things one might discuss with her: her abortive law career (she dropped out of the University of Sydney within a year of starting); her

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

FOOD SKYE GLG.indd 83

professional journey from La Varenne cooking school in France to the kitchens of Anton Mosimann OBE at the Dorchester; her time as a society chef, writing for Vogue, cooking for Nigella; winning a Michelin star at Petersham Nurseries (an award she later described as ‘a curse’); being a single mother (to daughters Holly and Evie, now 29 and 21 respectively); and her heroin addiction (she got clean in 2000, the year her father died). But it’s hard to square all this life experience with the softly spoken, composed figure in front of me. “My best friend always says I live ‘a little life’,” she smiles. “I think I do. I see my friends, I love to read, I like to do Pilates. I’m very blessed in my life. I’m the happiest I’ve ever been.” She’s also the busiest she’s ever been, splitting her time between Spring and Heckfield Place, the new luxury hotel in Hampshire (whose owner, Gerald Chan, is an investor in Spring) of which she is culinary director. There Gyngell presides over two restaurants: Marle, and the residents-only Hearth, where Gyngell finds herself cooking over live fire for the first time. “It’s been amazing learning how to control the fire. It’s really elemental. In our world, the food world, you get to learn all the time. That’s been an amazing gift.”

30/04/2019 10:44

Sustainable FOOD & DRINK Learning experiences of a non-gastronomic nature have come through collaborations with, for example, Egg’s Maureen Doherty (whose eccentric staff uniforms at Spring divided opinion); landscape architect Jinny Blom; and artist Valeria Nascimento. “I love to see how other creative people work. It’s so often really similar to the way I come to something. It’s fun to do other things. There’s a monotony to cooking. It’s deeply creative but at the end of the day, 12 o’clock comes and the first tables come in and it becomes about service.” Gyngell seems to surround herself with women (14 out of 22 chefs on the Spring brigade are female) and cites many among her personal heroes (Alice Water of Chez Panisse, the late Judy Rodgers of Zuni in San Francisco, Australian cook Maggie Beer…). She’s a fan too of London’s youthful cadre of chefs: “I love what James Lowe is doing at Lyle’s. I love what Merlin LabronJohnson is doing. I love people who cook with intelligence. I don’t love the complicated. I don’t like the ‘50 Best’ and the whole machismo thing that’s going on in the cooking world so much. It’s still very male-dominated.” Skye’s ‘most important relationship’ outside her family is with farmer Jane Scotter of Fern Verrow, a 16-hectare biodynamic farm in the foothills of Herefordshire's Black Mountains. Gyngell knew already of Scotter’s work but wrote to her in 2013 when she left Petersham Nurseries about the possibility of forging a relationship similar to those Gyngell had observed in California (at Chez Panisse and Manresa). “I thought she’d just say ‘bugger off, I’m not interested’. She said, ‘let’s have a conversation’.” From a tentative start, it’s now “like a marriage. Jane completely defines how we cook here.” It’s an exclusive relationship: Gyngell has committed to taking everything grown at Fern Verrow.

“My real interest is to champion food that’s grown in good clean energised, aerated, healthy soil on a good, clean, healthy, beautiful planet”

I make the observation that when I think of Gyngell’s culinary style, I think of those ‘simple’ dishes that grander chefs so often ignore: salads, soups, ice cream. Would she agree? “I cook the way I like to eat,” she says simply. “Ice cream is an obsession. I think it’s a really beautiful way to

“In November, we get together to review how everything went – what we loved, what we struggled to use – and do a planning list for the following year. It’s absolutely meticulous. We now know the ebbs and flows. We know that August, the most abundant time on the farm, is the least busy time for us. We freeze every single one of her summer fruits: raspberries, golden raspberries, two or three types of strawberries, jostaberries and loganberries. We put them in the freezer and use them all the way through so the year, so in the winter we can have jostaberry or mulberry ice cream.”

FOOD SKYE GLG.indd 84

30/04/2019 10:44

Spring

Heckfield Place

Spring

capture fruit flavours. At Petersham we used to have three desserts on the menu and one of them was always an ice cream. It hardly ever sold but I never took it off in nine years.” As for salad, it’s a “death row meal”. “I’m Australian. You have a salad with every meal.” Spring’s big success story has been its ‘Scratch Menu’ (now in its second year), a £20 a head pre-theatre

menu based around kitchen leftovers such as spent coffee milk (for labneh), buttermilk from making butter (for dressings) and even stale bread ‘re-milled’ into flour for cakes. Previously, food waste at Spring had sat at around 32 percent. It’s now down to 4 percent. “It’s part of who we are now. There’s a ‘scratch shelf ’ in the fridge. The chefs look at what we’ve got and come up with an idea. It’s a bit like Ready Steady Cook.” “It’s nice because we can offer a £20 menu to people who may struggle to spend £65 a head,” she says, interrupting herself to add, in the firmest of tones: “I don’t apologise for the prices that we charge here. I pay people properly. I’m happy to pass it on to you.” Whether it’s leftover cauliflower leaves or £30 a kilo borlotti beans – good food costs – Gyngell’s goal is to celebrate beautiful produce. “I’ve always been a very simple cook but the more and more respectful we feel around the produce, the less and less we want to alter it,” she says. “My real interest is to champion food that’s grown in good clean energised, aerated, healthy soil on a good, clean, healthy, beautiful planet.” Spring, Somerset House, Lancaster Place, WC2; springrestaurant.co.uk Heckfield Place, Hampshire, RG27 0LD Heckfieldplace.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

FOOD SKYE GLG.indd 85

M Y

L O N D O N

GLOSSARY SKYE GYNGELL

FAVOURITE GALLERY

I love the Serpentine Gallery because it’s small and it’s open to everyone. The exhibitions are excellent and it has the best bookshop, I think, in London. Kensington Gardens, Kensington, W2; serpentinegalleries.org

LUNCH DATE

Lyle’s is a go-to restaurant. The Guest Series that James Lowe does is such a clever idea. He brings all these incredible chefs from around the world to cook with him, so you get to experience the food from, say, Acme in Sydney, that you’d never otherwise get to experience. I go to a lot of those. Tea Building, 36 Shoreditch High Street, Shoreditch, E1; lyleslondon.com

HIDDEN GEM

John Sandoe Books is a higgledy-piggledy bookshop off the King’s Road where I know I can always ask for a recommendation. That personal one-on-one service makes it very special. I often buy four or five books but don’t always read them. I put them on my bookshelf then forget and go out and buy more. 10-12 Blacklands Terrace, Chelsea, SW3; johnsandoe.com

HOMEWARE HAVEN

Summerill & Bishop is a very beautiful cookware shop. Sometimes I would go and stand in the little shop in Clarendon Cross just for inspiration. The way they’d lay a beautiful table, their thoughtfulness and consideration. It’s that nurturing thing about cooking that I just love. 100 Portland Road, Notting Hill, W11; summerillandbishop.com

MARKET OF CHOICE

One of the most lovely things to do on a Saturday morning is to go to Spa Terminus in south-east London. Spa Terminus is a really important market because it’s for farmers and producers, not cooked food vendors, so you really go and shop there for your flowers, your fruit and your vegetables. Spa Road, Bermondsey, SE16; spa-terminus.co.uk

30/04/2019 23:42

Restaurant Sustainable

R E V I E W S

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Restaurant writer Hilary Armstrong discovers the capital’s most sustainable establishments

Rovi

59 Wells Street, Fitzrovia, W1 ottolenghi.co.uk/rovi

t’s a good thing the waiters at Rovi are well drilled. Without their assistance, I’d have spent my lunch tapping the likes of ‘bkeila’, ‘einkorn’ and ‘galotyri’ into my phone (full marks for knowing that’s a Tunisian spinach and herb paste, an ancient wheat, and a Greek soft cheese respectively). There’s no question that Rovi is a Yotam Ottolenghi production. All the hallmarks of this globally-minded chef are there, from the treasure trove of ingredients to the

vegetarian-friendly menu and boundless, borderless creativity. But there’s also a new dimension to his style – several, actually – that we haven’t really seen before. For a start, he’s cooking over live fire for the first time and introducing fermentation to the mix. More significantly, he’s putting sustainability front and centre. From the low-intervention wine list to the biodynamically-farmed fruit in the bircher muesli, this bustling canteen – all travertine stone, tactile oak and Bauhaus chandeliers – reflects how cosmopolitan Londoners want to eat right now. Celeriac shawarma, Rovi’s best-known dish, is a case in point. A far cry from the latenight street food standard, it involves celeriac both wood-roasted and lightly pickled, piled onto puffy fresh pita bread with crispy onions and spread with bkeila, cooling crème fraîche and lashings of fiery red fermented tomato and chilli. It’s not a tidy eat, but there’s not a high note it doesn’t hit (think: salt, fat, acid, heat). Mussels with cascabel oil and hay-

smoked pink fir apple potatoes seem mildnatured by comparison but conceal a secret assassin – that’s a whole green chilli in the moreish soupy broth. Don’t overlook Rovi’s meat dishes: congee with braised beef puts a new angle on the comfort food classic with the addition of pickled daikon, black sesame, fermented tomato, and a verdant burst of fresh chilli, spring onions and coriander. More is always more here – that one extra dimension that makes all the difference be it the crisp puffed rice with the congee, the sage leaf in the mountain tea kombucha or even the speck of salt that seasons the perfect little sugar-dusted doughnuts with plum sauce and bay. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £120 SIGNATURE DISHES: Celeriac shawarma, bkeila, fermented tomato WHAT TO DRINK: A choice of four Gin and Tonics using fresh seasonal ingredients such as pear, thyme and grapes

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 8 GLG.indd 86

28/04/2019 22:26

Sustainable

FOOD & DRINK

THE CONDUIT

LYLE'S 56 Shoreditch High Street, Shoreditch, E1 lyleslondon.com

40 Conduit Street, Mayfair, W1 theconduit.com

n Merlin Labron-Johnson, The Conduit, a members’ club for the environmentally and socially conscious in Mayfair, has found a chef who shares its values. Merlin, who won a Michelin star at Portland and a Bib Gourmand at Clipstone, is one of the most engaged chefs in London; he’s cooked at refugee camps in Athens and Lesvos, contributed to the Chefs’ Manifesto (in support of the UN’s sustainable development goals), and implemented a food waste programme at the Conduit. Now if I were to tell you that my meal at the Conduit’s light and plant-filled fourth floor restaurant involved old bread and the dregs from the juicer, it mightn’t sound terribly appetising, but to see such ingredients on the plate magicked into exciting new guises is inspiring. We start with a snack of Cornish mackerel from Kernow Sashimi (a small family business that promotes the Japanese ikejime method, the most humane method of killing fish) with a delicious cracker made by boiling up, drying and roasting off ‘recycled’ Snapery Bakery sourdough. Sharp persimmon and a dusting of vibrant purple beetroot powder (made from those juicer dregs) lends tartness. Labron-Johnson’s menus are led by the growing season and sourced from three main farms including Organiclea, an East London cooperative that delivers

L by bicycle. Meat is not off the table: Labron-Johnson uses game, rare breed pork and beef from retired dairy cows. Sussex mallard on toast with a garnish of preserved blackberries, fresh and orange and watercress looks simple but the flavour from the offal cooked in duck fat is immense. For dessert, try Labron-Johnson’s signature Paris-Brest - a crispy almond-topped choux pastry filled with praline cream that rightly follows him wherever he goes. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £100 SIGNATURE DISHES: Paris-Brest WHAT TO DRINK: Étienne & Sébastien Riffault’s biodynamic Sancerre

yle’s is a spartan space in an old tea factory, its Windsor chairs, oak tables and concrete floor enhanced by the changing light that pours in through steel-framed windows. Environmental Science Graduate James Lowe, a St John and Fat Duck alumnus, cooks without fanfare, quietly reimagining what sustainable modern British cooking might be. From the lunch menu (dinner is a £59 prix fixe), fudgy chunks of Delica pumpkin arrive in a foamy bath of whey butter (the butter made in-house; the whey a byproduct of said butter) with a grassy swirl of Styrian PDO pumpkin oil. Puntarelle with anchovies and home-cured Old Spot has a more Italianate character, using best-in-class ingredients such as Ryeland mutton, Ortiz anchovies and lemons by French grower Bachès. A St Jude cheese ice cream with buckwheat biscuit and russet apples fuses a cheese course with apple crumble to delightful effect. Lowe’s understated style has won him a Michelin star and a place in the World’s 50 Best. His follow-up, Flor (a wine bar and bakery in Borough) arrives this spring.

MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £150 SIGNATURE DISHES: None – the menu rarely repeats itself – but Lowe’s is particularly well known for game cookery WHAT TO DRINK: Wines by top natural wineries such as Lazio’s Le Coste in Lazio and Austria’s Christian Tschida THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 8 GLG.indd 87

28/04/2019 22:26

NATIVE 32 Southwark Street, Southwark, SE11 eatnative.co.uk

DAYLESFORD BROMPTON CROSS

76-82 Sloane Avenue, Chelsea, SW3 daylesford.com

t Daylesford’s new Brompton Cross outpost, eating virtuously comes easily. There’s little on the menu that doesn’t sound as if it might do me good. Drinks alone run from functional botanical infusions to kefirs, botanical cocktails, turmeric shots and bone broths. I choose a green juice packed with leafy greens (I can have a flat white anywhere). To begin, chicken bone broth spiked with fiery root ginger and chilli delivers a satisfying intensity. My visit falls on a Monday, meaning all specials are meat-free: think mushrooms arancini with roasted pepper sauce and Moroccan butternut squash stew with quinoa. I choose sourdough pizza with nut cheese in place of mozzarella, Jerusalem artichoke purée in place of tomato sauce. It’s not so much a pizza bianca as a ‘pizza verdi’ adorned with sprout tops, peppery rocket and delicious charred artichokes. Daylesford’s wish is to ‘tread as lightly as we can on this planet’. This mission statement informs the experience from top-to-toe. Even the magnificent nine metre tree trunk that stretches up from basement to first floor restaurant came from a dying oak tree found on the Daylesford organic farm in Gloucestershire. The café is airy and attractive and a handy pitstop just a stone’s throw from the Conran Shop and a few more again from the V&A. Chelsea girls (and boys) of all generations will be right at home.

ative had to beat a hasty retreat from its original Neal’s Yard home last summer, before pitching up at a larger site in Borough just a few weeks later after a successful Kickstarter. The new spot suits it, a cavernous semi-industrial space warmed up with fur throws, white-painted wainscoting and tumbling foliage. Founders Imogen Davis (need to know: she’s a falconer) and Ivan Tisdall-Downes (ex-River Cottage HQ and Blue Hill at Stone Barns) are passionate about wild food from Britain’s coastlines, hedgerows and forests (they’ve been known to serve squirrel). They’re passionate too about zero waste production, which they express through the thought-provoking menu and wine list (which favours organic and biodynamically produced wines). Cornish sardines and Isle of Wight tomatoes come with ‘yesterday’s bread’, for example, and the tasting menu (from £50) opens with ‘chef’s wasting snacks’ such as a crisp tangle of deep-fried vegetable peelings with curried squash purée. “We call it our compost heap pakora”, notes a waiter. My rose veal ragout, layered into a lasagne-esque assembly with celeriac sheets, housepickled walnuts, garlic butter, breadcrumbs, Lincolnshire Poacher and homemade ricotta (the leftover whey goes into their potato risotto) proves that just because a dish uses up leftovers doesn’t mean it can’t be almost indecently delicious. A douglas fir and millet cake uses buttermilk sorbet from butter-making. Though some dishes are more ‘rustic’ than pin-prick precise, I leave feeling galvanised. Why can’t more restaurants be like Native? MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £120 SIGNATURE DISHES: The wood pigeon kebab WHAT TO DRINK: Sea buckthorn Negroni, English vermouth

MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £75 SIGNATURE DISHES: Super greens eggs Benedict with wilted green kale and cavolo nero WHAT TO DRINK: Cold press juices, nut blends, drinking broths

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 8 GLG.indd 88

28/04/2019 22:26

Sustainable

Restaurant R E V I E W S

CUB

153 Hoxton Street, Hackney, N1 lyancub.com

Roganic

5-7 Blandford Street, Marylebone, W1 roganic.uk

uch was the success of his Blandford Street ‘pop-up’ Roganic in 2011 to 2013, Simon Rogan of two Michelin star L’Enclume in the Lake District jumped at the chance to revive it in 2018 – this time for the long haul (he’s also opened another in Hong Kong). The new-look Roganic, a few doors down from the original, is one of a pair of London restaurants for Rogan (the other being his chef’s table and development kitchen Aulis) that represent the landscape, ingredients and environment that inspire L’Enclume. Many ingredients hail from Rogan’s own farm there. There’s a choice of menus including ‘business lunch’ (£35) and tasting menus (£65/£85). The longer,

16-course version is quite a time commitment but it’s worth it. Each dish different and each plate too (bark, stones, seed and ceramics are brought into play). Menus change regularly but may include preserved pumpkin tartlets with bay; a crisp chicken skin cracker with cod’s roe emulsion overlaid with paillettes of pickled heritage carrot; and dry-aged Cumbrian beef with ox tongue ragu. The cooking is technical but as clean and fresh as the Lakeland air. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £220 SIGNATURE DISHES: Apple tart, pine ice cream WHAT TO DRINK: Ambient tea alternative to wine flights

ccupying the uncharted space where ‘bar’, ‘restaurant’ and ‘experimental supper club’ collide is Cub, a collaboration between Mr Lyan (aka Ryan Chetiyawardana, bartender and disrupter) and chef Doug McMasters of Brighton ‘zero waste’ pioneer, Silo. If I’m making it sound a bit concept-y, ignore me and go by Cub’s own subtitle ‘Good Things to Eat and Drink’ - for that’s what we’re for. And that’s what we get in the form of a fluid, drinks-led menu (£67 for drinks and food) served at tables fashioned from recycled yoghurt pots (the silver terrazzo effect comes from the lids). Our first sip is Rare Tea Company oolong and in the course of the evening we segue from a coupette of Krug (LVMH are Cub allies) to a shimmering fungus and kelp broth and a dainty cocktail of apple amazake, green olive and Bruichladdich whisky. We have only one wine: Domaine Josmeyer’s sprightly Pinot Blanc, with salsify glazed with a ‘treacle’ made of vegetable trimmings and garnished with dandelion.

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

RESTAURANT REVIEWS 8 GLG.indd 89

This is no Bacchanalian feast which my guest and I are glad of; we eat and drink mindfully, leaving clear heads the morning after. Two dishes, in particular, delight: a crunchy brined fennel heart dusted with fennel pollen and onion seeds in a groovy duochrome pool of crab apple and juniper; and chestnut purée and buttermilk sorbet with birch sap and a lick of sage oil. Clever and captivating, Cub proves that sustainability and luxury can and should co-exist. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £134 SIGNATURE DISHES: Broth, bread and butter WHAT TO DRINK: Krug Grande Cuvée Water Jelly

28/04/2019 22:26

True Blue Wizard Island in the Seychelles’ Cosmoledo Atoll is one of the most remote wildernesses in the archipelago. Here, you’ll find eight sustainable eco-pods crafted from shipping containers, which form Blue Safari Seychelles’ irresistible new eco-camp. Set in a cluster of 21 islands, it offers an unspoilt off-grid experience, with its pristine waters home to marine turtles, nesting seabirds and hundred-strong shoals of fish. bluesafari.com/en

TRAVEL OPENER_8 GLG.indd 91

29/04/2019 11:16

Travel Notes

Go off-grid in the Seychelles, head deep into the Colombian jungle and get green-thinking in Greece Compiled by LIZZIE POOK

MOUNTAIN MARVEL

Sumptuous Safaris

GAME CHANGER

Nestled within Greece’s spectacular Zagori region, Aristi Mountain Resort & Villas was built from the ground-up with an eco-friendly ethos in mind. As well as focusing on water conservation and recycling, the hotel has recently launched a new natural dining concept Greenhouse, where all the ingredients have been grown just metres away on its pioneering on-site farm. aristi.eu/en

Billed as Africa’s answer to Soho Farmhouse, the new Farmstead at Royal Malewane – overlooking a wildlife-rich watering hole in the lush Thornybush Private Game Reserve – is becoming one of the most soughtafter spots in South Africa’s Greater Kruger. Guests can check into pared-back luxury suites or book out the whole Farmhouse for up to 14 guests. theroyalportfolio.com

OFF THE BEATEN PATH

We all know it: Venice is busy. Too busy. Which is where the #EnjoyRespectVenezia campaign comes in. Backed by the picturesque JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa – set on its own private island just off St Mark’s Square – it encourages visitors to abide by a set of rules to combat over-tourism, from discovering the city’s lesser-visited gems, to indulging only in local products and cuisine.

comune.venezia.it/en

INTO THE JUNGLE

Deep in 27-acres of protected Colombian forest, almost swallowed up by the landscape, you’ll find new 18room eco-lodge Cannúa. Built into the mountainside using sustainably sourced bamboo and compressed earth blocks, this is a prime spot for exotic birdwatching, visits to local community farms or flower-arranging classes using blooms from Cannúa’s own garden. cannua.com/en

TRAVEL NOTES_8 GLG.indd 92

28/04/2019 22:11

T R AV E L

House proud If it’s privacy you’re after, make a note of the brand new eco houses at Gökçe Gemile Estate, one of the most exclusive new addresses in the Med. Tucked away on Turkey’s exquisite Gemile Peninsula, fringed by forest and with a sprawling private waterfront, the exclusive-use houses have been crafted by local artisans using natural local stone, reclaimed wood and upcycled iron to blend in with their natural surroundings.

gokcegemile.com

SOUL CLEANSE To travel is a privilege, but to know you’re leaving nothing but footprints while doing so is a game-changer. Since pledging to slash its landfill output three years ago, hotel group Alila has been a pioneer when it comes to green initiatives in Bali (from turning plastics into building materials to making oil from its recycled metals). Now, it has reached its target to become entirely zero waste, making it one of the greenest hotel groups on the planet. Bravo.

alilahotels.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

TRAVEL NOTES_8 GLG.indd 93

28/04/2019 22:11

Wanderlust

Travel that needn't cost the

EARTH These days, the most glamorous of holidays are green. We ask the capital’s most discerning travellers for their favourite eco escapes Words HARRIET COOPER

ALICE TEMPERLEY FASHION DESIGNER temperleylondon.com

“Environmentalism and sustainability are at the core of this amazing estate. They have a sprawling organic and biodynamic farm, which provides 90 percent of everything served there. Bamboo is also grown on the property and used wherever possible, from building the yoga studio to the straws in drinks. There are beautiful flower farms, wild animals roam freely, and there’s even a sea turtle sanctuary. It’s heaven.”

CUIXMALA Jal i sc o, Mexi c o cuixmala.com

erched majestically on a cliff, with a bird’s eye view of the pristine Costa Alegre and the sparkling Pacific Ocean beyond, Casa Cuixmala certainly has location on its side. Owned by Alix Goldsmith Marcaccini, daughter of billionaire Sir James Goldsmith, this dreamy Mexican hideaway - originally built as Goldsmith’s own private retreat - sits in a 30,000acre biosphere reserve, an intoxicating mix of lush jungle, coconut plantations, sweeping savannah and grasslands. The main Casa - formerly Goldsmith’s residence - is Mexican meets European meets Moorish in design with an overall feeling of comfort luxe (the emphasis is on feeling like you are on a big ranch

MAIN TRAVEL 8 GLG.indd 94

28/04/2019 22:13

Sustainable T R AV E L

rather than in a hotel). Guests can either stay in the main house or its adjoining bungalows, or one of the three private villas - aka Casas - or the Casitas, a group of suites which share a resort pool and clubhouse. An eco-warrior knighted for his services to ecology, Goldsmith’s love and respect of nature lives on throughout Cuixmala. Zebras and eland antelope roam the sprawling estate, while the elusive jaguar, freshwater crocodiles and 270-plus species of bird can also be spotted, whether by foot, bicycle, horseback or boat - there’s even a sea turtle sanctuary here. Three beaches offer tranquil little coves for swimming, snorkelling or paddleboarding and rugged cliffs for perching on to watch the whales off the wild Pacific coast. There are also soccer pitches, basketball and tennis courts - and a yoga pavilion built from bamboo (the sustainable crop is used for everything here, with 60 different species grown on the estate).

Hungry from their healthy exertions, guests can feast on seasonal farm-tofork dishes, many of them authentically Mexican, safe in the knowledge that most of the food has been grown in the sprawling organic and biodynamic gardens (anyone is welcome to drop by and talk to the head gardener about the composting system or the flower nurseries) or on the estate, where no pesticides are used and crop rotation is practiced to avoid soil erosion. Meanwhile all the dairy and cattle comes from the hotel’s sister property Hacienda de San Antonio, a former coffee plantation in the foothills of the Volcano of Colima, and lovingly restored by Sir James Goldsmith in the 1980s. This is a magical place, offering that unique combination of being completely connected to nature, while also being in the lap of luxury. Albeit, a very ecoconscious luxury.

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

MAIN TRAVEL 8 GLG.indd 95

The Casitas start at $550+19% VAT per night and suites in Casa Cuixmala start from $1300 +19% VAT per night in summer season.

28/04/2019 22:14

LAURA BAILEY MODEL, PHOTOGRAPHER

AND CONTRIBUTING EDITOR TO BRITISH VOGUE

“Whilst Soneva Fushi does not officially call itself an eco-resort, it most definitely is. Founder creators Sonu and Eva applied their eco-philosophy and passion for community and conservation to every element of their island dream. Their SLOWLIFE (‘no news, no shoes’) mantra informs their vision, and the loyalty of returning families is testament to the magic and authenticity of the Soneva experience. Yes, you can laze around in paradise or mix it up with action adventure, but the real dream is to change lives via experience - and not just the guests. The Soneva hotel family work on a local and a global scale, shaping environmental policy by rejecting all single-use plastic, fundraising via their Foundation, and teaching Maldivian children to swim and us all to care more, to think deeper.”

S O N E VA F U S H I T he Mal di v es, Indi an Oce an soneva.com/soneva-fushi

ook a surf lesson at Soneva Fushi and you’ll be riding the waves on boards made from recycled waste, in what is the first fully-sustainable surfing programme in the world. Just one example of the eco-conscious ethos which prevails at this laid-back-luxe resort in the Maldives. Located in the Baa Atoll on the private Kunfunadhoo Island, just half an hour by seaplane from the capital of Malé, Soneva Fushi is set within a protected biosphere reserve, so pristine white sands, sparkling sea and an abundance of native wildlife come as standard.

Designed to be in total harmony with its natural surroundings, the resort’s palm-thatched villas are hidden amongst the verdant jungle (Soneva Fushi does not do over-water villas due to their potentially-damaging effects on the coral), though each comes with its own slice of beach, as well as open-air bathrooms, private gardens - and a personal butler, of course. The Soneva ‘no news, no shoes’ policy is indicative of the rhythm of life here, where hammocks swing gently from palm trees, and often the only signs of activity are scuttling hermit crabs or the much-loved community of wild rabbits.

MAIN TRAVEL 8 GLG.indd 96

28/04/2019 22:14

Sustainable T R AV E L

Gyoten, and Sobah’s, located on an uninhabited island and serving uniquely Maldivian dishes, to family favourites So Guilty and So Cool - a chocolate parlour and an ice cream bar, offering over 60 homemade flavours. All the menus use quality organic ingredients - many of which are grown in the sustainable vegetable gardens. Even the cocktails are organic, best sipped at Bar(a)bara, an overwater bar perfectly placed for dolphin-spotting. As custodians of such a pristine environment, founders Sonu Shivdasani and Eva Malmstrom take eco responsibility very seriously - they’re on a mission for the resort to become zerowaste. No single-use plastics are imported and 90 percent of solid waste is recycled; much of this takes place at the island’s Eco Centro, a ‘waste-to-wealth’ centre which transforms used articles and materials into colourful and useful treasures. On a wider scale, the Soneva Foundation supports the development of projects that have a positive environmental, social and economic impact and, importantly, offset carbon emissions from resort activities and guest flights. The message here? Style, substance and sustainability are not - and never should be - mutually exclusive. Prices from $1272 per night, including breakfast, for 2 people in a one-bedroom villa.

Guests can navigate the sandy lanes on bicycles, visiting the ‘So Glasscycle’ studio, a state-of-the-art glass factory, which recycles Soneva’s own waste; the Dive Centre, the jumping off point to swim with sea turtles and manta rays; and the celebrated Six Senses Spa, which is set in the heart of the forest. As dusk falls, there are movies to be watched al fresco at Cinema Paradiso, or a galaxy to be admired with the Resident Astronomer at The Observatory. Dining here is another memory maker. The options are many, from So Hands On, a sushi counter with five seats where you might find Michelin-starred chef Kenji

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

MAIN TRAVEL 8 GLG.indd 97

28/04/2019 22:14

ROSEMARY FERGUSON MODEL AND NUTRITIONIST rosemaryferguson.co. uk

“Sublime Comporta not only has a striking setting - it is nestled amongst the cork trees and umbrella pines so typical of the Alentejo, minutes from Portugal’s protected coastline - but sustainability is key here. Everywhere you look, nature plays a role - villas are built on stilts to lower the impact of the build and the garden, designed on the principles of permaculture, is home to more than 300 species of herbs and spices. In the midst is a favourite spot of mine - the Food Circle, an outdoor restaurant, which seats only 12, with an emphasis on home-grown and local produce, as well as organic wines. I had an amazing time there.” 98

MAIN TRAVEL 8 GLG.indd 98

28/04/2019 22:14

Sustainable T R AV E L

SUBLIME C O M P O RTA Comport a , Port u gal sublimecomporta.pt

hat’s in a name? If Sublime Comporta is anything to go by, plenty. The boutique hotel, found amongst the unspoilt sand dunes, rice fields and wineries of Comporta in southwest Portugal, exceeds expectation. Set on a 17-acre wildflower-strewn estate, nature is at the heart of this rural retreat. The public spaces and guest rooms - designed by José Alberto Charrua and Miguel Câncio Martins (of Buddha Bar and Man Ray fame) are minimalist, emphasising the outdoors through the use of natural materials, muted tones and floor-to-ceiling windows. For the ultimate low-key vibe, stay in one of the ‘cabana’ villas, each with its own pool. Or book one of the brand new ‘pool suites’, which have private terraces built on stilts over a huge natural pool (the largest in the Iberian peninsula) where the cool, clear water is treated through aquatic plants rather than chemicals. Days here are dreamy; the pool is a popular spot for lying horizontal, staring up at the region’s famous umbrella pines and cork trees, or for the more active, the swathe of deserted beach offers up idyllic opportunity for long, lazy walks or horseback riding in the shallow surf. But Sublime Comporta isn’t just a pretty face. Husband-and-wife creators Gonçalo and Patricia Pessoa are passionate about sustainability. Solar panels are used throughout the property and everything possible is recycled - even the cooking oil. Vegetables, herbs and fruits grow in abundance in the pretty organic garden, many of which end up on the fresh, local menu devised by chef Tiago Santos and served in the airy main restaurant Sem Porta (meaning ‘without a door’). Or in the Food Circle, an outdoor organic restaurant where up to 12 guests sit around a counter for plates of sauteed wild mushrooms with fresh pasta and perfectly-grilled octopus served alongside smoked potatoes. After, the outdoor fire pit and Com Brasa pool bar are perfectly placed to curl up with a post-dinner cocktail and marvel at the stars. The small, yet seductive spa also taps into the surroundings, using the garden’s sustainablycultivated plants in its treatments, alongside Amala Organic Skincare - a brand much revered in green circles. For the committed, weekly wellness programmes include hatha and vinyasa yoga and meditation, all of which take place on a pavilion surrounded by pines. For those looking to reconnect with nature and enjoy slow living, this is the place. Prices from €225 for a room in low season to €2,400 for a five-bedroom villa in high season, per night.

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

MAIN TRAVEL 8 GLG.indd 99

28/04/2019 22:14

Untitled-1.indd 1 LG_GREEN_GLOSSARY_UK_OCT18.indd 1

17/12/2018 08:44 15:06 27/11/2018

HOME & INTERIORS

Industrial chic Designer Charlotte Kidger utilises industrial waste streams, repurposing them as innovative and eye-catching objects. For her Industrial Craft project, the Central Saint Martins graduate has created a series of pots, vessels and large sculptural tables using a lightweight polyurethane foam dust, which is the byproduct of CNC fabrication and would otherwise end up incinerated or in landfill. To read about the other trailblazers whose eco-credentials are as impeccable as their design practices, turn to page 104

charlottekidger.com

08:44

HOMES OPENER 8.indd 101

28/04/2019 22:23

Design Notes

Whimsical wallpaper, brightlyhued tablewares and dinosaur interiors for grown-ups Compiled by OLIVIA LIDBURY

RAINBOW CHIC

For a dinner party ice-breaker, employ designer Matilda Goad’s rainbow-themed tableware, designed exclusively for Matches Fashion. Crafted in Italy, the vibrant capsule collection includes trays and table mats, as well as coordinating name card holders and brightly-tipped, scallop-edge napkins. Goad’s aim is to provide an easy step for minimalists to play with colour. Mission accomplished. Table mat, £110; trays, from £300; matchesfashion.com

WALL POWER KIND HEARTED

Ethical and inclusive handmade homeware store Aerende is a social enterprise that sells aspirational design pieces all made in the UK by people facing challenges and barriers to employment. From refugees to people with learning disabilities, prisoners and the visually impaired, Aerende challenges the stigma surrounding these makers’ skills whilst providing a platform for their cra . aerende.co.uk

Get Crafty

LOOMING LARGE London Craft Week is celebrating its fifth anniversary with a jam-packed schedule of workshops and events this May. Highlights include the launch of Luachanna – a collaboration between Irish heritage brand Mourne Textiles and London design studio Pinch. See the collection, as well as legacy loom demonstrations by one of Mourne’s master weavers, at Pinch’s Belgravia shop.

8 - 12 May; londoncraftweek.com

Cole & Son’s collaboration with Fornasetti is aptly titled Senza Tempo - Italian for ‘timeless’. The fourth joint venture between the British wallcovering specialist and the Milan-based atelier doesn’t disappoint, serving up atmospheric designs imbued with Fornasetti’s signature elegance and irony. This pattern pictured, Nuvole (clouds), is a must for adding drama to dining room walls and of course, ceilings. £50 per sq m; cole-and-son.com

ROAR DEAL

The latest House of Hackney collection to obsess over has arrived. Dinosauria pays homage to the prehistoric age with a pastel filter. Extinct creatures are celebrated across the brand’s signature maximalist approach to prints and quirky curios, including dinosaur wallpaper, cushions, bookends and this playful porcelain lampstand (£495). houseofhackney.com

102

HOME NOTES_8.indd 102

29/04/2019 21:24

HOME & INTERIORS

A LOVELY BUNCH ese new season vases are as remarkable as the flowers they’re made to host. Perfect for elevating verdant arrangements, they’re equally dazzling in their own ornamental right.

FROM TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: LIGNE ROSET Lundi aqua green vase, £124; chaplins.co.uk &KLEVERING Dotted vase, £58; amara.com HABITAT Cielo blue and green glass vase, £25; habitat.co.uk HEALS Jewel Small Smoke vase, £49; heals.com HAY Moroccan vase, £65; libertylondon.com GEORG JENSEN Alfredo vase, £145; georgjensen.com

103

HOME NOTES_8.indd 103

30/04/2019 23:47

104

INTERIOR ECO TRENDS_8.indd 104

29/04/2019 23:39

Sustainable

HOME & INTERIORS

Eco Design

theNEW-WAVE DESIGNERS From eco-friendly paints and chemical-free bed linen to furniture made from recycled coffee grounds, here’s how to curate your home interiors with a conscience Words HARRIET COOPER

n a world where sustainability is, quite rightly, permeating our day-to-day lives - from ethical fashion and organic food to green travel- it makes sense that ecological responsibility should be applied to interior design too. After all, the decisions we make for our home can have a considerable impact on the environment (did you know, for example, that lighting accounts for nearly 6% of global CO2 emissions). Thankfully, a growing number of designers are pioneering products and principles that will help towards a healthier planet, whether through repurposing waste materials to create bespoke pieces of furniture, adopting total transparency in their manufacturing process or donating revenue to philanthropic causes - or all three. Meet the trailblazers whose eco-credentials are as impeccable as their design practices.

SASHA SYKES Irish artist and furniture designer Sasha Sykes works with organic, locally-found natural materials, from simple life forms such as algae to more complex structures like discarded bird nests, which she encapsulates in hand-cast resin to create all manner of pieces - though a stand-out has to be Miss Ban, her fantastical reinterpretation of Shiro Kuramata’s iconic Miss Blanche chair. “I like to explore the cycle of life and decay, and the dichotomy of fragility and preservation. I’m interested in mankind’s relationship with our surroundings and expressing the nature of that interaction is central to my work,” explains Sasha. "When foraging, I am conscious of the plants and algae I take from and always check their health and abundance beforehand. The resins I use are very different to single-use plastics - they’re amazing materials that allow for multi-functional use and longterm appreciation.” LEFT PAGE: The Wall; CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Miss Ban, Burning Gorse, Wildflower Bloom; prices on application; sashasykes.com

105

INTERIOR ECO TRENDS_8.indd 105

30/04/2019 23:50

SMILE PLASTICS Designers Adam Fairweather and Rosalie McMillan are on a mission to open people’s eyes to the unexpected beauty of scrap through their company Smile Plastics. The London-based design and manufacturing house uses innovative art and technology to handcraft colourful panels from 100% recycled materials (think yoghurt pots, coffee grounds, even old mobile phones, banknotes and wellies), which can be used on everything from furniture to large-scale construction. The duo also creates one-off bespoke pieces - with clients including Stella McCartney, Anthropologie and Christian Dior - all of which serve to change people’s perceptions around waste and recycling. CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Studio Smile large black and white table, from £695; Alba and Charcoal from the Classics range; a bespoke design for Selfridges; smile-plastics.com

Tala Lighting This young, British lighting brand is guided by the founding promise of ‘conservation through beauty’, and certainly puts its money where its mouth is. The London-based studio is fully committed to reducing the world’s carbon footprint, not just through its elegant LED lighting designs (you’ll see their work at Third Space health clubs, Hackney Coffee Company, Re:Mind Meditation Studio, amongst other places) but also by donating a percentage of its revenue to reforestation through projects and partnerships with a portfolio of charities. Indeed, this forward-thinking company is on track to fund the planting of 300,000 trees by the end of 2020. ABOVE LEFT The Feature collection, from £19; ABOVE RIGHT The Voronoi III collection, from £30; tala.co.uk

106

INTERIOR ECO TRENDS_8.indd 106

29/04/2019 23:39

Sustainable

HOME & INTERIORS

LITTLE GREENE Little Greene may be the go-to brand if you’re looking for an inspirational palette, depth of colour and a luxurious finish from your paint, not to mention the finest grade wallpapers. But this independent, family-run business is about more than pretty walls and ceilings. Little Greene is fully committed to minimising ecological impact, from the virtually VOC-free water-based paint (meaning no harmful solvents and toxic fumes) and the oil-based paints reformulated with sustainable vegetable oils, to the forest-friendly wallpapers and recycled/ recyclable paint tins. With everything manufactured in the UK, the company is equally dedicated to minimising pollution and energy consumption, whilst also supporting local suppliers and businesses. Edith’s Eye hallway, dado: Edith’s Eye 301, upper wall: Wormwood 300, door & architrave: Pique 299, from £45 for 2.5l littlegreene.com

CHARLOTTE KIDGER Designer Charlotte Kidger takes secondary raw materials and transforms them into innovative objects, all crafted by hand. Her latest project ‘Industrial Craft’ uses leftover polyurethane foam dust associated with CNC fabrication, which the Central Saint Martins graduate repurposes into a durable material she then casts into pots, vessels and tables - each one unique. “I believe the material and objects to represent both elements of sustainability and innovation,” says Charlotte. “Through working with abundant waste material sourced from the creativity of other designers, I hope to have found a solution to utilising this waste stream.” The Industrial Craft collection, prices from £320; charlottekidger.com

107

INTERIOR ECO TRENDS_8.indd 107

29/04/2019 23:39

Sustainable

HOME & INTERIORS

NINA & CO

London and Amsterdam-based Nina Woodcroft established her interior and product design studio in 2014. With a grounding in hotel and restaurant design, Nina’s emphasis is on projects with a strong focus on sustainability and a sense of community - she recently completed Dean Street Café for homelessness charity Centrepoint. She has also designed The Breakfast Collection, ceramic tableware hand-crafted from responsibly-sourced materials and batch-produced for maximum efficiency and a reduction in waste. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: THE BREAKFAST COLLECTION Espresso cups, £22 each; Bowl, £30; ninaand.co

RISE & FALL Fed up with poor quality bedding that didn’t feel good to sleep on, was manufactured using nasty chemicals and that cost a fortune, New Zealandborn, UK-based entrepreneurs Jed Coleman and William Coulton set about finding a solution. Made from 100% extra long staple cotton (aka Egyptian cotton), with a 400 and 600 thread count, their Rise & Fall sheets neither cost the earth, nor indeed hurt it – this company is all about 100% green energy, low impact dyes, water recycling and plastic-free packaging; plus all factory workers are paid a fair wage and given access to free education, and £3 from every sheet set sale goes to Centrepoint, the homelessness charity. “Sustainability in interiors is every bit as important and we are already seeing the rising tide in our industry,” says Will. “If you think about your bedding, in particular, your skin in is contact with your sheets for one third of your life. So knowing how that material has been made and where it has come from is incredibly important.” LEFT: The Classic 400 full duvet set, from £99; riseandfall.co

108

INTERIOR ECO TRENDS_8.indd 108

01/05/2019 12:07

0333 011 3333

WEST ONE BATHROOMS 8.indd 1

26/04/2019 16:24

GREEN

LIVING From sofas filled with coconut fibres to organic horsehair mattresses, it’s never been easier to give your home a green makeover

e can get so caught up in booking our planet–conscious holiday or checking the fridge is full of organic food, we often miss what’s right under our feet. Literally. Have you ever considered how carpet is actually made (recent tests of 15 samples revealed that 12 contained toxic substances)? Or the landfill site it goes to when you rip it up and replace it with a new one? And let’s not forget the sofa which we so gratefully sink into after work, that is likely off–gassing potentially harmful VOCs (volatile organic compounds) thanks to its nonbiodegradable polyurethane foam stuffing and toxic flame-retardant chemical coating. As for your bed... Isn’t it a wise idea to check exactly what it is you’re spending almost a third of your life lying on? You’ll surely sleep far easier in the knowledge you are nestling down on an organic mattress made from breathable, sustainable fibres. Here’s how to be kinder to the planet at home…

SOFA, SO ECO

It’s an unfortunate truth that many sofas are bad for the environment. Toxic flame retardants (a large sofa can have up to 2lb of these retardants in its cushions), petroleum-based PU foam, engineered hardwood frames that release formaldehyde, toxic glue, synthetic upholstery materials… it doesn’t make for happy reading. Despite this cocktail of chemicals, there are surprisingly few furniture companies making 100% sustainable sofas. While many offer one or two eco-friendly elements – which beggars the question: are they slapping on a ‘sustainable’ label just to jump on the bandwagon? – very few offer green options for every component. One company leading the charge is the US-based Stem (stemgoods.com), which produces bespoke pieces of hand-crafted furniture without any

nasties. Glues are zero VOC, and all frames are made with kiln-dried hardwood from certified, locallysourced forests. Fabrics are 100% natural, and the filling is either CertiPUR-US® certified foam or certified organic natural latex (made from the sap of rubber trees, it is 100% natural and very durable). In the UK, EcoSofa (ecosofa.co.uk) in Nottingham has collaborated with Nottingham Trent University to ensure its collections are all made using natural, sustainable and recycled materials (think horsehair, coir, wool) with no harmful chemicals. They’ll also upholster with organic materials and fillings, and they can even replicate your dream sofa – eco, of course. Another brand of note is Bespoke180° (bespoke180degree.co.uk) which makes eye-catching furniture using certified organic and natural textiles – as an aside, they also garner rave reviews for

110

INTERIOR FURNISHINGS_8.indd 110

30/04/2019 13:04

Sustainable

HOME & INTERIORS

SLEEP EASY

NATURALMAT

BROCKWAY CARPETS

STEM

their mattress of horsetail hair and British organic wool. Another Country (anothercountry.com) should also be on your green radar; the contemporary craft furniture maker uses wood and natural fibres, has an excellent carbon offsetting scheme and recyclable, compostable packaging.

ROLL OUT THE GREEN CARPET

Man-made carpets containing nylon, polyester, acrylic and polypropylene have, sadly, become widely popular, mainly due to their affordability – but at some serious cost to the planet. Not only are these synthetic fibres nonbiodegradable and often backed with petroleum based products, but the carpets are treated with harmful toxins to make them stainand fire-proof and anti-static. Thank goodness for the conscientious carpet and flooring companies using eco-friendly materials, which mean you can

tread more lightly on the planet. Take wool, for example. It is natural, renewable, sustainable and biodegradable (though do check your wool carpet hasn’t been chemically treated against moths). While New Zealand wool may be an excellent carpet component, British wool has less of a carbon footprint. Brintons (brintons.co.uk) consistently use British wool and all their carpets are made in the UK (indeed, wool from 1 in 9 British Sheep ends up in a Brintons carpet). On a lesser scale, both Wools of Cumbria (wocc.co.uk) and Brockway Lakeland Herdwick (brockway.co.uk) make hard-wearing 100% British wool carpet derived from the Herdwick (indigenous British sheep) herds. Also offering excellent wool options are Axminster carpets (axminster-carpets.co.uk) – biodegradable carpets, waste yarns recycled into underlay, manufactured in the UK;

and Alternative Flooring (alternativeflooring.com) do a Barefoot range which is made with natural, undyed wool and handwoven using traditional looms. Not looking for wool? Interface (interface.com) is a global company with an extensive range of sustainable alternatives. Dedicated to eliminating any negative impact on the environment by 2020, it has replaced latex with recycled PVB (the laminate from car windows) and is using materials such as discarded fishing nets and used plastic bottles in its flooring. Likewise, high-quality Danish company Ege (egecarpets. com) uses ECONYL® yarns (regenerated nylon waste from landfill and oceans). While Tretford (tretfordcarpets.co.uk) uses the highest grade cashmere goat hairs from natural, sustainable resources. But there’s no point ensuring that your carpet is green, if your underlay isn’t. TexFelt (texfelt.co.uk) Envirolay uses 100% recycled fibres and feels luxurious underfoot; alternatively Sheep Wool Insulation (sheepwoolinsulation.com) do a 100% pure sheep’s wool underlay, which is an effective and green way to insulate. Whatever carpet you choose, do check when you book the carpet fitters that they are signed up for Carpet Recycling UK (carpetrecyclinguk.com), a notfor-profit membership association working to increase the recycling of carpet waste (400,000 tonnes of carpet waste arise in the UK every year), diverting it from landfill to recycling or energy recovery.

Throughout our life, we’re in bed for an average of 33 years (that’s 12,045 days). So why spend all that time on a mattress emitting toxic chemicals, when you could be getting your beauty sleep on one made of natural and organic materials, which is both healthier and more sustainable? When buying your mattress, look for the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and/or the Global Organic Latex Standard (GOLS) certification on their label, to ensure you’re buying the purest mattresses on the market. Naturalmat (naturalmat.co.uk) offers a huge range of organic, natural and luxury mattresses (as well as toppers, bedding and beds for babies). The central ingredient of their mattresses is organic coir, which is the husk of the coconut. Add to this layers of organic lambswool, cashmere and mohair – and you’re in for a sound night’s sleep. Demko (demko.co.uk) is a company passionate about beds and its organic mattresses are made of cotton, coir fibre, Tencel (a cellulose fibre made by dissolving wood pulp) and organic latex, a mattress material that is breathable, durable and has a natural resistance to mites, mould and bacteria. Abaca (abacaorganic.co.uk) has been making organic mattresses for over 30 years, all from natural materials such as wool, horsehair and cotton, handsewn and hand-tufted. On the subject of horsehair, Greenfibres (greenfibres.com) does a latexfree mattress consisting of ten layers of natural and untreated horsehair. If looked after well it is virtually indestructible and will last forever – so less pressure on landfill. Vegan? Look no further than the Devon-based Cottonsafe Natural Mattress company (cottonsafenaturalmattress.co.uk), the first to offer a chemical-free mattress entirely devoid of animal products.

111

INTERIOR FURNISHINGS_8.indd 111

30/04/2019 13:05

L A S T WO R D

MY GLOSSARY JO WOOD

The organic skincare entrepreneur, eco campaigner and original rock chick Jo Wood opens her little black book to the capital

JAMJAR FLOWERS

As told to HARRIET COOPER HOME IS I live on a lovely road in Camden, near the park and the shops - it’s very handy. Occasionally if friends come and stay, I’ll take them to Camden Market but it’s such a touristy thing these days. Before Camden, I lived in Kingston, Richmond and Wimbledon. I’m a London girl. FAVOURITE HOTEL It has to be The Savoy. It has great history, and a spectacular view overlooking the Thames. The first Christmas after my daughter Leah was born we were living in America, so we stayed at The Savoy and had all the family over for Christmas dinner there, which is a nice memory. FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS I’ve been going to River Café in Hammersmith for years. They grow their own herbs and vegetables. My favourite is the pasta with truffles, when they’re in season. The Duke of Cambridge in Islington is a certified organic pub and restaurant. It’s a great spot for a Sunday roast. I am a flexitarian - I won’t eat red meat, but I’ll eat fish once or twice a week and occasionally chicken if it’s organic. BEST NIGHT OUT There’s a little cosy bar in Soho called Bar Termini where they do excellent cocktails. The House of St Barnabas on Greek Street is a great private members’ club, with membership fees helping towards people affected by homelessness. It’s in a Grade I-listed Georgian townhouse and each room is different. I love it, there’s great music and dancing.

FAVOURITE INDEPENDENT SHOP The shop I’ve been going to for most of my life is Matches, which showcases established and emerging fashion designers. I started going when they first opened in Wimbledon in 1987. Now I go to the one in Marylebone Village if I want to get myself something nice to wear. FAVOURITE SUSTAINABLE FASHION BRAND I like to buy clothing from Bamford - which sources ethically and responsibly, and you can track the history of your clothes. They have a really beautiful online shop. I’ve just bought some cashmere dungarees for myself and Leah. FAVOURITE DESIGNERS I love Vivienne Westwood. She’s recently done a collaboration with Burberry in support of Cool Earth, a charity working to halt rainforest destruction, which I am ambassador of. I should wear more of Vivienne’s stuff really. She’s so quirky and I adore her as a person. VINTAGE FINDS Being an eco girl, I love vintage. I have a really good friend called Mairead Lewin and she is a vintage dealer. She’ll call me up and say, ‘Jo, I’ve found the most amazing Biba dress’ and I’ll say, ‘Hold it for me, even if it doesn’t fit’. Barbara Hulanicki is a hero. I first went to the Biba store when I was 16 and I was in heaven. FAVOURITE GALLERY The Maddox Gallery. I recently went there with my son Tyrone as he’s into art.

They have some great artists, and the creative director is Jay Rutland. Jay is also an ambassador for Project 0, my son’s charity, which is helping make people aware of the destruction of the ocean. SIGNATURE SCENT Well, aside from my two Jo Wood Organics fragrances Amka and Usiku, which are exotic, my favourite has to be Santal by Le Labo - I love it for its floral, sensual notes. FAVOURITE ARTIST A guy called Russell Young - he’s a British-American pop artist who does large-scale silk-screen paintings of cultural icons. I’ve got a massive one of Marilyn Monroe, which is dusted with glitter. It’s in my living room and I absolutely love it. BEAUTY BUYS I buy most of my makeup from Jane Iredale - it’s all clean, natural and vegan, and the products smell really good. I love the Liquid Minerals A Foundation, as it’s so light. And her mineral-based Eye Pencil is fab. I also use Charlotte Tilbury The Classic eyeliner and her nude lipsticks. The Organic Pharmacy is great, too, for its natural, organic skincare products. TOP TREATMENT The best masseuse in the world is Katie Scott. She is based in north London and specialises in sports massage, though her treatments are for non-sporty people too. I’d say she has magic hands.

THE HOUSE OF ST BARNABAS

FAVOURITE HAIRDRESSER I have been going to Lesley at the Lesley McIntyre Salon in Covent Garden for years, and I get my colour done by Mikko Jarvelainen there. They are all friends of mine now, plus they take good care of my hair. FAVOURITE GYM I go to BXR London, a boxing gym in Marylebone. I’m quite good at boxing and I love it as well. It makes me concentrate, releases stress and it’s a fantastic workout. FAVOURITE FLORIST They’re called JamJar Flowers and are based in Southwark. They do the most wonderful, naturallooking displays of seasonal flowers in jam jars, vintage bottles, and enamel buckets. I’M LOOKING FORWARD TO I can’t wait to see the Mary Quant retrospective, currently on at the V&A. I used to wear Mary Quant. I had the best green suede, square block heel shoes when I was 13, which my mum bought me. In fact, I’ve still got a Mary Quant shirt.

THE DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE RUSSELL YOUNG

BXR LONDON

The Jo Wood Organics range is available to buy at jowoodorganics.com JO WOOD ORGANICS

JO WOOD, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD AND PAM HOGG AT SUSHISAMBA COVENT GARDEN GRAND OPENING PARTY

112

MY GLOSSARY 8 GLG.indd 112

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

29/04/2019 15:04

THE WOMEN WHO SMASH THE GLASS CEILING

free 10-week programme for women, A freeA10-week digitaldigital programme for women, agestage, and stage, who to want to smash every every age and who want smash the the glass ceiling do themselves. it for themselves. glass ceiling or do or it for Friends The Glossary are guaranteed a place Friends of TheofGlossary are guaranteed a place on the Academy apply using code ABGLOS. on theAcademy - apply using code ABGLOS allbrightcollective.com/apply-academy allbrightcollective.com/apply-academy

ACADEMY AD.indd 1

01/05/2019 13:00

PATEK PHILIPPE 8.indd 1

08/04/2019 13:20