The Glossary Summer 2017

FA S H I O N | B E A U T Y | H E A LT H | W E L L N E S S

ISSUE ONE SUMMER 2017 £5 WHERE SOLD

The

A R T S | C U L T U R E | F O O D | D R I N K | T R AV E L | H O M E S

YOU R LO N DO N ST YLE GU I D E

C U LT U R E

Essential events TREND

Members’ clubs move east SHOPPING

e fashion edit BEAUTY

e capital’s skincare gurus STYLE

70 years of Dior WELLNESS

Sensory yoga FOOD

Al fresco dining

The

SUMMER SEASON Where to go, who to see and what to wear

Featuring: Sienna Miller on theatre, Emilia Wickstead on fashion, Aurore Ogden on art, Xochi Balfour on holistic nutrition

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The YOUR LONDON STYLE GUIDE

CONTENTS I

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FRONT COVER PHOTOGRAPHY LUCIA O’CONNOR-MCCARTHY

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Arts & Culture

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Lauren Cochrane meets Emilia Wickstead, whose delicate dresses in sorbet shades have A-list admirers

Dates for your diary this season World-class sculpture in Regent’s Park

14 A NEW DAWN The Arts Club’s Aurore Ogden gives us her insights into the London art market

18 EASTERN PROMISE A new crop of private members’ clubs are in town – but they’re not what or where you might expect

20 D EAR DIOR A new book charts every single collection produced under the Dior name

22 S IENNA The star of Alfie and Factory Girl on returning to the West End and juggling acting with motherhood

Style

28 FASHION NOTES The people and trends on our radar

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30 PORTRAIT OF A LADY

07 AGENDA

12 FRIEZE FRAME

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34 BLUE BELLE Blue is the mood of the season

36 SOLE SEARCHING Harriet Quick weighs up heels versus mules

40 B RITISH SHOE DESIGNERS Our guide to London’s footwear royalty

43 IN THE SHADE Make sure all eyes are on you with our sunglasses selection

44 WILD AT HEART Clean lines and a pale palette for easy summer dressing

55 OUT OF THIS WORLD Fine jewellery collections that are heaven sent

56 TIME FOR ACTION Women’s watches get sporty, discovers Avril Groom

Beauty & Wellness 62 BEAUTY NOTES

Talking points in hair and make-up

64 SCENTS & SENSIBILITY Fragrance writer Odette Toilette reveals why perfume is a serious art form

67 ROSE GARDEN Beauty products inspired by the classic English flower

68 LOVE THE SKIN YOU’RE IN London’s top facialists advise how to get the best out of your skincare regime

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70 IN GOOD HANDS The capital’s top wellness therapists

72 GREEN GODDESS Clean living advocate and author Xochi Balfour on how to find Zen in the city

74 TRUE COLOURS Can multi-sensory yoga take your practise to another level? We find out

107 CALIFORNIA DREAMING From palms to prints, take a style cue from Beverly Hills

108 AT HOME WITH Designer Caroline Legrand shows us around her Holland Park home

112 FLASHBACK The Swinging Sixties with Twiggy

Food & Drink

80

78 TASTING NOTES

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Where to eat and what to drink

80 THE GREAT OUTDOORS Our round-up of London’s al fresco gems, from romantic rooftops to top terraces

82 POP GOES THE SEASON Champagnes designed with sunshine in mind

84 STARS IN HIS EYES Chef Ben Murphy has grand plans for Knightsbridge stalwart Launceston Place

Travel

90 TRAVEL NOTES Global destinations

92 EDINBURGH Luxury in the Lothians Go Dutch in style

98 TUSCAN DREAM Live La Dolce Vita at Villa San Michele

Home & Interiors 104 DESIGN NOTES

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Inspirations from the world of interiors

JOHN GALLIANO S/S 1998, ©FIRSTVIEW

94 AMSTERDAM

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W E L COM E

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THE GLOSSARY

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ONDON. WHERE DO YOU START TO DEFINE A CITY that means so many different things to so many different people? Well, you don’t. We wouldn’t even want to try – our great capital is not for pigeonholing. It is both comfortingly familiar and tantalisingly unknowable. It is steeped in heritage, tradition and the ghosts of centuries past and yet also at the very cutting edge of the world’s fashion, music and dining scenes, the birthplace of global ideas and innovation. With so many new things bursting into life around us on a daily basis, it can be hard to discern the melody amidst all the noise. And that’s where we come in. Whether you’ve lived in London your whole life or are visiting for the first time, our aim is to bring you the very best of what this great metropolis has to offer, from new openings and on-point trends to tried and trusted favourites. From dining to dressing to decor, we’ve asked experts to open up their address books and give us their personal recommendations. Discover where fashion designer Emilia Wickstead enjoys a nightcap (p30), the Shoreditch shop that The Arts Club’s Aurore Ogden is smitten with (p14), and where Launceston Place’s head chef Ben Murphy eats out when he’s not cooking (p84).

Sienna Miller tells us about returning to the West End, we’ve got the lowdown on Gucci’s new interiors collection, and we bring you the essential edit of the season’s finest fashion, jewellery and perfume.

This is The Glossary, a style guide to London for the modern woman.

Enjoy the issue.

From London With Love Our edit of must-have buys from the capital’s coolest talents

GLOBE-TROTTER Emilia 20" trolley case, £1,260; globe-trotter.com

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA Kitty pumps, £525; charlotteolympia.com

BELLA FREUD Merino cushion, £160; bellafreud.com

TOM DIXON Eclectic candle set, £80 tomdixon.net

LIBERTY London Little Marlborough tote bag, £395; libertylondon.com

ROJA London eau de parfum, £225; selfridges.com

THE GLOSSARY

EDITORIAL & CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett EDITOR: Laura Archer ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle CONTRIBUTORS: Nancy Alsop, Lauren Cochrane, Sally Dixon, Avril Groom, Catherine Hales, Elizabeth Johnson, Serene Khan, Hazel Lubbock, Mollie McGuigan, Karen Anne Overton, Priscilla Pollara, Harriet Quick editorial@theglossarymagazine.com | advertising@theglossarymagazine.com | production@theglossarymagazine.com Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited. © 2017 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission.

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CONTRIBUTORS Summer 2017

Harriet Quick

Lucia O'Connor-McCarthy

Lucia O’Connor-McCarthy is a freelance fashion and portrait photographer.

Her clients include GQ, The Telegraph and Vogue Italia.

Harriet Quick is the former fashion features director of British Vogue, a contributor to a wealth of global style titles and author of Vogue: The Shoe (2016, Condé Nast Publications).

London in summer is…alive. The long days mean everyone is out and about and being sociable.

My favourite hot weather tipple is probably a frozen margarita on the rooftop at Shoreditch House or a jug of Pimm’s at Netil 360, a rooftop bar in east London.

Shooting in the Chelsea Physic gardens (Wild at Heart, page 44) was such a joy – nature is most often the inspiration for my work. The gardens are a hidden gem that offer some tranquility away from the hustle and bustle – it feels like you aren’t in London.

London in summer is… full of long languid evenings in gardens and parks.

My favourite hot weather tipple is a margarita on the terrace of private members’ club 5 Hertford Street – it’s a real treat.

Heels or flats for summer? (Sole Searching, page 36) I live in the slightly raised heel espadrilles by Prism (they are beautifully made); sandals by Ancient Greek Sandals; and pretty heels by Paul Andrew and Manolo Blahnik.

Mollie McGuigan

Priscilla Pollara

Avril Groom

Lauren Cochrane

Mollie McGuigan is a freelance journalist who has written extensively on fashion, beauty and lifestyle for more than 10 years and now focuses on health and fitness.

Priscilla Pollara is a freelance journalist who has worked for the Evening Standard, The Independent and Tatler.

London in summer is…open-water swimming at West Reservoir in Stoke Newington, running around Hackney with my club Eton Manor, and drinking prosecco in my new garden.

My favourite hot weather tipple is the pomegranate and hibiscus margarita at Corazon in Soho.

I like how Xochi Balfour (Green Goddess, page 72) is realistic about juggling wellbeing with city life.

London in summer is…

Holland Park.

My favourite hot weather tipple is Fino (a delicious dry white sherry) and tonic. I make my own but I also enjoy the ones they serve at Ember Yard.

Despite writing about private members’ clubs (Eastern Promise, page 18), sadly the only clubs I belong to are baby ones and a gym. I must do better.

Avril Groom is a luxury goods writer and editor for a range of publications including the Financial Times, How to Spend It and The Telegraph.

Lauren Cochrane is assistant fashion editor of the Guardian, and has contributed to magazines including Vogue, i-D and Wallpaper*.

London in summer is…sunny parks.

My favourite hot weather tipple is chilled Provençal rosé, enjoyed on the terrace at Scott’s.

The women’s sports watch I like most (Time for Action, page 58) is Chopard’s new Happy Ocean Dive – fully functional and with free-floating diamonds, it’s genius and glamorous.

London in summer is… my garden, my cat and novelty ice cubes.

My favourite hot weather tipple is an ice-cold beer on any rooftop.

What I love about Emilia Wickstead's aesthetic (Portrait of a Lady, page 30) is the pretty colour palette – it’s often good enough to eat.

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ARTS & The

CULTURE e summer agenda Sculpture in the sun Members’ clubs go east

COURTESY OF ELEANOR ANTIN AND RONALD FELDMAN FINE ARTS, NEW YORK

Mayfair’s art maven: Aurore Ogden

Park Nights UNTIL 22 SEP

Francis Kéré’s extraordinary Serpentine Pavilion takes on a new dimension on selected Friday nights this summer with a series of site-specific live performances in art, film, theatre, dance and music. Highlights include an evening with artist Eleanor Antin, whose work includes 2001’s The Last Days of Pompei (pictured). serpentinegalleries.org

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AKA 2 (© ROH 2016)

Agenda La Bohème

ROYAL OPERA HOUSE

11 SEPTEMBER-10 OCTOBER The autumn season opens with a bang with Puccini’s beloved tale of love, life and death in 19th-century Paris. Antonio Pappano conducts and Richard Jones directs.

©CHARLIE GRAY

roh.org.uk

Theatre

CAT ON A HOT TIN ROOF YO U N G V I C T H E AT R E Sienna Miller transforms into a Southern belle in this new adaptation of Tennessee Williams’ Pulitzer Prize-winning play about simmering family tensions set in Mississippi.

Playing Brick to Miller’s Maggie is Jack O’Connell, while Colm Meaney stars as Big Daddy. Benedict Andrews directs.

Until 7 October. youngvic.org

Musical

Follies

NATIONAL THEATRE FROM 22 AUGUST

Gathering for one last time before the theatre they once starred in is demolished, Wiesmann’s Follies drink, sing and reminisce about things they could have done differently and lives they could have led. This revival of Stephen Sondheim’s nostalgic musical, starring Imelda Staunton and Janie Dee, features classic songs such as ‘Broadway Baby’, ‘I’m Still Here’ and ‘Losing My Mind’.

nationaltheatre.org.uk

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Bafta Debuts

REGENT STREET CINEMA 18 JULY-22 AUGUST

As part of Bafta’s 70th anniversary celebrations, Regent Street cinema is showing a special season commemorating the early work of British directors who have won the Bafta for Outstanding Debut and gone on to stellar careers. Highlights include The Warrior (pictured).

ANDY WARHOL, MUHAMMAD ALI, 1978 ©2017 THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS, INC/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK AND DACS, LONDON. HENRI MATISSE, SAFRANO ROSES AT THE WINDOW, 1925, PRIVATE COLLECTION, PHOTO © PRIVATE COLLECTION, © SUCCESSION H. MATISSE/DACS 2017. © RACHEL WHITEREAD

regentstreetcinema.com

© BBC CHRIS CHRISTODOULOU

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BBC PROMS

Royal Albert Hall UNTIL 9 SEPTEMBER

Break out the bunting, it’s time for the summer-long series of concerts celebrating classical music. The sheer diversity of the programme means there’s something for everyone – from heavyweights Rachmaninov, Elgar and Mahler to an evening of music from India and Pakistan, and a celebration of soul in 50 years of Stax Records.

It all culminates in a bombastic, roof-raising rendition of ‘Land of Hope and Glory’ on the Last Night of the Proms, celebrated country-wide. bbc.co.uk/proms

GALLERIES

Twine at Twilight

CHELSEA PHYSIC GARDEN 17 AUGUST

London’s oldest botanical garden, the Chelsea Physic Garden, hosts a series of evening events throughout the summer. Twine at Twilight celebrates fabrics and the plants that make them, and features live music, themed cocktails, interactive theatre and tutorials in making flower crowns and embroidered brooches, all held outdoors in the beautiful gardens.

chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk

SOUL OF A NATION TATE MODERN UNTIL 22 OCT Starting in 1963, Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power explores the electrifying artwork to have emerged from the turbulence of the American Civil Rights movement as artists strived to forge a new cultural identity. Most of the works have never been displayed in the UK before, so this an exciting opportunity to discover an overlooked period of American art. tate.org.uk

MATISSE IN THE STUDIO ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS

TATE BRITAIN

12 SEP-21 JAN 2018

5 AUG-12 NOV Do not miss the most comprehensive “I have worked all my life exhibition of work by the indomitable before the same objects…

Rachel Whiteread when it lands at an object can play a role Tate Britain this September. The first in 10 different pictures.” woman to win the Turner Prize (in So said Henri Matisse in 1993), Whiteread’s arresting sculptures 1951 but it isn’t until now are being given the space they deserve that we’ve been able to in this 1,500m2 exhibition, which glimpse the personal explores the full breadth of her career collection that inspired from monumental works to smaller, him. From vases to masks, more intimate pieces – Untitled (Clear see the objects and the Torso) ,1993, pictured above. paintings they star in. royalacademy.org.uk

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RACHEL WHITEREAD

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Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM UNTIL 18 FEBRUARY 2018

The V&A’s run of blockbusting fashion exhibitions continues with this retrospective on Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga. Known for his pioneering use of fabrics, he revolutionised the silhouette, bringing in the tunic, babydoll and shift dresses. More than 100 items are on display (the V&A has the largest collection of Balenciaga in the UK), some of which have even been x-rayed to show the elaborate construction and technical skill that went into the creation of his clothes.

The exhibition also explores Balenciaga’s lasting influence on designers from Dior to Erdem. vam.ac.uk ABOVE: DOVIMA WITH SACHA, CLOCHE AND SUIT BY BALENCIAGA, CAFE LES DEUX MAGOTS, PARIS, 1955. PHOTOGRAPH BY RICHARD AVEDON © THE RICHARD AVEDON FOUNDATION

©ANNA SUI, ©FASHION AND TEXTILE MUSEUM

RIGHT: MODEL WEARING BALENCIAGA ORANGE COAT, PARIS, FRANCE, 1954 © MARK SHAW, MPTVIMAGES.COM

Film4 Summer Screen SOMERSET HOUSE

FASHION & TEXTILE MUSEUM

Three UK premieres and an appearance from Al Gore are among the highlights of this year’s Film4 outdoor cinema held in the courtyard at Somerset House. The sequel to Gore’s powerful 2006 climate change documentary An Inconvenient Truth debuts on opening night while cinematic classics old and new follow, from Moonlight (2016) to Donnie Darko (2001) and 1960s cult Blow-Up (pictured).

From grunge to surfer chic, the designer who defined nineties style is celebrated in this comprehensive insight into Anna Sui’s inspirations and influences.

It also makes her the first living American fashion designer to be the subject of a retrospective, in testament to her importance.

10-23 AUGUST

BLOW-UP © PARK CIRCU

The World of Anna Sui

somersethouse.org.uk

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UNTIL 1 OCTOBER

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Frieze frame If you go down to Regent’s Park today, you’re sure of a big surprise – world-class sculpture awaits among the trees Words LAURA ARCHER

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A six-metre toy figure, an elephant standing on its trunk, a whiteenamelled tree and a column of 22 footballs are among the curious sights presently bemusing joggers and dog-walkers in Regent’s Park.

They are part of Frieze Sculpture, which this year, for the first time, is running throughout the summer ahead of October’s art fairs. Located in the English Gardens, the display consists of 25 works by leading contemporary and classical artists including Urs Fischer, KAWS, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Sir

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Anthony Caro, Hank Willis Thomas, Tony Cragg and Emily Young.

“These works explore sculpture’s material and technical dexterity, together with its social role and reflection on the human condition and our environment,” says Clare Lilley, director of programme at Yorkshire Sculpture Park, who curated the exhibits. All the works are available to buy but for most of us it’s less of a shopping trip and more a rare opportunity to enjoy world-class sculpture for free.

Until 8 October; frieze.com

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1. Miquel Barceló, Gran Elefandret (2008), Acquavella Galleries 2. John Chamberlain, FIDDLERSFORTUNE (2010), © 2017 Fairweather & Fairweather LTD/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York. Gagosian 3. Michael Craig-Martin, Wheelbarrow (red) (2013), New Art Centre/Gagosian 4. Urs Fischer, Invisible Mother (2015), Gagosian 5. Sir Anthony Cragg, Stroke (2014), Holtermann Fine Art 6. Bernar Venet, 17 Acute Unequal Angles (2016) Blain|Southern2 7. Ugo Rondinone, summer moon (2011), Sadie Coles HQ 8. Reza Aramesh, Metamorphosis - a study in liberation (2017), Leila Heller Galler 9. KAWS, FINAL DAYS (2013), Galerie Perrotin 10. Emily Young, Planet (2012), Bowman Sculpture 11. Magdalena Abakanowicz, Standing Figure with Wheel (1990), Marlborough Fine Art 12. Hank Willis Thomas, Endless Column (2017), Ben Brown Fine Arts All photos courtesy Stephen White/Frieze

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Interview

A New Dawn As director of arts at The Arts Club, Aurore Ogden is charged with keeping the venerable Mayfair institution ahead of the times Words LAURA ARCHER

I

T IS THE DAY AFTER THE SUMMER SOLSTICE – the hottest in 40 years – and Aurore Ogden is looking impossibly fresh for someone who spent the evening before partying at the Tate Modern with the likes of Katherine Jenkins, Donna Air and Princess Alia Al-Senussi. “Ah, well, I’m four months pregnant so no hangover for me,” she explains, laughing, pulling her cream pashmina around her shoulders as we take our seats in the air-conditioned comfort of The Arts Club.

Ogden, 34, is director of arts at the exclusive Mayfair members club founded

by Charles Dickens in 1863, and is charged with curating a programme of insider events that bring luminaries of the art world to the

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18th-century townhouse on Dover Street where the club is based. “Yes, this is a place that’s very glamorous, where you can come for a nice meal or a night out, but we have existed as an arts club for more than 150 years so my role here is to retain that artistic legacy, those traditions and heritage,” she says. “We put together three seasons of events a year and we take it very seriously.

Unlike other members clubs, we’ve been doing this for a long time and I feel we’ve set the tone when it comes to the quality of events that we offer here.”

Indeed. Recent speakers read like a who’s who of the art world: Godfrey Worsdale, director of the Henry Moore Foundation; the fine-art photographer Wolfgang Tillmans in conversation with Tate Modern director Frances Morris; Hans-Ulrich Obrist,

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PHOTO LUKE A. WALKER

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skip along at a nice pace; auction houses don’t seem to be suffering – there are records being set all the time. The appetite is still there. London is the epicentre of the art world in many ways. Every major gallery is represented here, whether it’s Gagosian or David Zwirner or Lisson – and there’s a proliferation of non-profit institutions – Parasol Unit, Delfina and so on – where people can get support to create the art they’re looking to create, because funding is such an issue. London is where people know the market is, where the movers and shakers actually come.

“New York, as an example, is another wonderful cultural hub but you don’t have that history, you don’t have that longevity that we have here with our museums and our cultural institutions.

And to supplement all that we have fantastic restaurants and bars and hotels. ” Un s u r p r i s i n g l y, given her evident passion, Ogden’s position at The Arts Club, where she has been for twoand-a-half years, is something of a dream job. Born Aurore Ankarcrona in London to an American mother and a Swedish father, she attended St Paul’s and initially went up to Cambridge – “I didn’t like it at all” – before switching to UCL to read history of art with anthropology. “I’ve always had this real interest in art since I was very young,” she says. “My mother is an interior designer and has immaculate taste. She and my father were always very keen to acquire bits and pieces on their

“London is

JOHN GOLDING IN HIS STUDIO, 1983

artistic director of the Serpentine Galleries; Venetia Portia of The British Museum; rising Colombian star Oscar Murillo; and Alex Farquharson, director of Tate Britain, discussing his vision for taking the venerable institution forward. There are lively, topical panels on women in art, the state of the market post-Brexit and post-Trump, and the merits of this year’s Venice Biennale (from which Ogden has just returned).

There are out-of-hours gallery tours and art breakfasts. In other words, there’s plenty of conversation fodder to impress your dinner party guests with. “It’s great for our members because they have access to all these people –

the epicentre of the art world.

It's where the movers and shakers come"

these fantastic artists are literally wandering around the club,” says Ogden. “During Frieze, for example, it’s a total hotbed of art-world activity in here. I love it – we have gallerists and curators and collectors all using the club as their base for the week.”

Speaking of Frieze, which returns to Regent’s Park this October for its 15th year, does she feel that the recent turmoil in UK politics has impacted on London’s reputation as the world’s leading art hub?

“Actually, it’s not as downcast as everyone is making out,” she says. “Sales continue to

JOHN GOLDING, S.15 (PEACH AND GOLD), 1985

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THIS PAGE: JOHN GOLDING PHOTOGRAPHED BY BECKY COHEN. ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE JOHN GOLDING ARTISTIC ESTATE

be flipped the other way?

JOHN GOLDING, H.3 (THE ARCHER), 1982

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THIS PAGE: FRANK BOWLING IMAGES COURTESY THE ARTIST AND HALES GALLERY. COPYRIGHT OF THE ARTIST. SAMUEL LEVI JONES COURTESY PAPILLION ART, LOS ANGELES

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travels around the world, so I grew up in this wonderful situation where I was surrounded by beautiful things.” Her path into the art world, however, wasn’t straightforward. “I was offered this great job at CNN when I was 22 so I hightailed it to New York,” she recalls. “I took a right-turn away from the art world and went into journalism. I wanted to return to art in some capacity but I didn’t know how that might come about, so instead I tried to acquire pieces whenever I could – obviously depending on wall space,” she adds. After moving from New York to Houston, she returned to London three years ago with her husband, Edward Ogden, whom she married in 2013. “I was finally able to put down roots and I felt this was the time to start acquiring some good pieces,” she says. “We travel a lot so we make a point of trying to pick up art along the way – in that same model as my parents taught me.”

Among her favourite personal works are pieces by Brooklyn-based artist Ryan Metke, which remind her of her time in New York, while wedding gifts included a set of Warhol’s Marilyn prints, a Damien Hirst spot painting and some “wonderful” Peter Beard photographs. That beats a toaster, I suggest. “Sure does!” she agrees.

This very personal approach to art, she insists, makes her ill-placed to advise on how to start an art collection. “For me, buying art is less about investment, less about the name – it’s about the story, about

FRANK BOWLING, ABOUT RECENT WEATHER TOO, 2014

how it makes me feel,” she says. “My advice would always be – do you want to live with it? Does it make you happy? Does it ignite some emotion in you that means you just have to have it? If not, don’t buy it. For me, the only reason to buy a piece of art is because you want to live with it in your home and enjoy it.”

She may not think this is a good strategy but her gimlet eye and personable manner have seen her rise through the ranks to become one of London’s most respected art voices. The Tate party the previous night was the annual event for Tate Young Patrons, of which she has just been named co-chair. She’s now responsible for signing up new patrons for Tate and gets to vote on what artworks the funds are spent

on. It’s the latest accolade to add to her repertoire, which also includes Roberta Moore Contemporary Art, where she is a consultant, and AWITA, the association of women in the arts, which launched late last year with Ogden as an executive committee member. She’s also overseeing The Arts Club’s expansion to Los Angeles and Dubai, which will happen in autumn 2018. To say she’s busy is clearly an understatement; no wonder she needs that iced latte in front of her. She laughs.

“Yes, there’s a lot on but it’s exciting,” she says. “I’m also in the middle of moving house. And we’ve just got a puppy.”

And a baby on the way, I point out. But something tells me if anyone can juggle all of this, Aurore Ogden can.

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GLOSSARY GO-TO DESIGNERS My outfit usually needs to take me from the office to a slew of evening events.

Peter Pilotto and Tibi make that transition pretty easy. I just add a pair of Lucy Choi shoes and I'm good to go. Off duty I am either in ME+EM or Zara and a pair of Stan Smith’s. I wouldn’t even think about buying jewellery from anyone other than Hattie Rickards, who is seriously talented. She has created a number of bespoke pieces for me over the years. hattierickards.com FAVOURITE RESTAURANT Casa Cruz. A large part of its charm is Chilean-born owner Juan Santa Cruz but the Argentinian-inspired menu is absolutely delicious – my favourite dish is the Iberico pork – and the outdoor terrace is the loveliest place in London to have a cocktail in the summer. casacruz.london BEST BAR I’m more of a pub kind of girl – for me it will always be the Ladbroke Arms with its wonderfully warm staff and excellent seasonal food. It’s a real neighbourhood gem. ladbrokearms.com CULTURE FIX Tate Britain has a consistently impressive roster of exhibitions, not to mention the permanent collection. Cerith Wyn Evans, David Hockney and Queer British Art were recent highlights for me. tate.org.uk TOP SHOP Alex Eagle on Lexington Street – everything is exquisite! I’d quite like Alex to design my life. alexeagle.co.uk HIDDEN GEM Michanicou Brothers on Clarendon Road, W11, is a real old-fashioned greengrocers with the freshest, most delicious produce.

They let you try before you buy and your total is still added up on a scrap of paper.

My mother used to take me when I was small and the staff are all still the same.

Tel: 020 7727 5191

FRANK BOWLING, AT SWIM TWO MANATEE, 1978

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SAMUEL LEVI JONES, BRUTALITY, 2015

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hite ties and tails, coupettes filled to the brim with the finest champagne, and clouds of cigar smoke wafting up towards the imposing portraits hanging on the walls. This is but a snapshot of the glittering world that for centuries existed behind the closed doors of elite clubs, the preserve of well-dressed, wellconnected ‘gentlemen’ who retired to such havens to discuss politics and business, knowing that a code protected their secrets.

Today London still – and rightly so – maintains some of these antique traditions, although you’d be hard-pressed to find someone smoking, and a plain suit now suffices in even the strictest of environments. That said, other things couldn’t now be more different. The very thought or act of secrecy appears impossible and unappealing in a world where over-sharing and Instagram rule the roost. In fact, there is no finer example of this eschewing of covertness than the recent spate of private members’ club openings in the capital. Far from keeping

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London’s private members’ clubs are entering a new, modern era with a move eastwards Words PRISCILLA POLLARA

schtum, details are now what sell, serving to titillate and tantalise the waiting crowd.

Let’s look at The Curtain, the creation of Michael Achenbaum – he of New York City’s Hotel Gansevoort fame – as an example. Before the doors were even opened on this brand-new Shoreditch hangout, which cost a cool £70 million to create, casual hints of its greatness were dropped: the six-storey hotel and private members’ club is named after the 16thcentury Curtain Theatre where Romeo and Juliet was first staged; there was a spa,

naturally, but also a rooftop pool; there were promises of Pac Man machines and a members-only basement bar called Billy’s Bar, as well as a flower-strewn Imperial Rose Room dedicated to meetings.

And then there’s the club within the halls of the grand Ten Trinity Square, the Grade II*-listed former Port of London Authority building that has now been transformed into a fabulous Four Seasons hotel and serviced homes. In the run up to Ten Trinity Square’s opening, there were casual announcements of its club housing a room dedicated to Château Latour – the first of its kind outside of France. For oenophiles, this was no banal passing piece of information.

So far, all change. But what else?

London's most exciting opening for some time, the Soho House Group’s newest addition The Ned, delivers a hotel, a magnanimous nine restaurants and a private members’ club within its walls.

But its arrival points to the biggest change of all in the capital’s private members’ club scene: location.

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THE CURTAIN

Historically, the members’ clubs of old were to be found in Mayfair (and quite a few still are), a stone’s throw from the most expensive residential housing and the most prosperous private companies. But so many of the recent openings have taken that ageold predictable element, and turned it on its head. “Do you like the sound of what we offer? Do come east for a slice,” they appear to be saying. And east we are all going.

“The City has more than its fair share of culture and it’s developing at a rapid pace,” says Nick Jones, the man who invented Soho House and its famous ‘no suits’ policy. “The Square Mile wasn’t on my radar as a place to be, but now I’m embracing the City. I fell in love with the building as soon as I saw it.” Indeed, housed within the headquarters of the old Midland Bank near the Bank of England, there is no doubt that some of The Ned’s appeal is its own four walls. The grey, echo-filled colonnaded halls have in no way gathered dust and been forgotten, but rather brought back to life in another more useful form. “We are delighted that such an important building has been repurposed and made entirely relevant once again,” says Gareth Banner, managing director. “There is a lot to love here – the architecture, the choice of restaurants and the daily entertainment on our ground floor stage.”

And it isn't just The Ned and The Curtain that have attempted to break the mould. The private members’ club within Ten Trinity Square is issuing a similar invitation in its home near Tower Bridge, while The Arts Club, better known for its Dover Street location, will soon be opening an outpost in Canary Wharf, called the Quay Club. Then there’s The Devonshire, brainchild of Brian Clivaz and Harry Harris, which sits in the heart of the City of London, better known for its investment bankers than discerning members of clubs.

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THE DEVONSHIRE CLUB

But that is not all. While most people are captivated by the tales of the elitist world of long ago, it’s fair to say that women’s intrigue will always be higher given that this world chose to bar women from its inner workings.

Today, there are still some clubs in Mayfair that strictly ban women or restrict female attendance to being a plus one. Crying out to be modernised, once again we are seeing the inclusion of women hurried along by this new wave of entrepreneurs in London, people seemingly ashamed

TEN TRINITY SQUARE

it simply hadn't happened sooner. Aret Kapetanovic, communications director of The Devonshire, speaks of the desire to create a “home away from home” within its walls, but it is clear women are at the core of their charm. “The Club interiors were designed from the beginning to be appealing to female members and we constantly add womencentric events to our cultural programme,” she says. “With a programme designed to inform, inspire and delight, we cover all areas of social networking, personal and professional development, often partnering with prominent women’s networks in the City and beyond. The Club also has fantastic relationships with luxury brands, world-class performers, creatives and brilliant speakers, all leaders in their field.”

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Breaking the mould in so many ways, here is a group of people who, without criticising the past, are re-imagining the future – our future – ridding their new establishments of secrecy, of unfair and unexplained restrictions on gender, and more importantly, recognising that within London’s rich tapestry more than one tribe of people exists, and accordingly tapping into the creative and tech crowd of east London and the financial minds of the City.

With this shift to the east, the concept of a private members’ club is vastly different to what it once was, and is all the better for it. The very word ‘establishment’ that reeked of the concept of an inner sanctum, has been destroyed. What do we have now? We have people revolutionising the scene, offering more of London, giving Londoners more of what they want. If the past was elitist, the future is inclusive.

THE NED

27 Poultry, EC2R Membership: £3,000 a year thened.com

THE CURTAIN

45 Curtain Road, EC2A Membership: £1,000 a year thecurtain.com

THE DEVONSHIRE CLUB

4-5 Devonshire Square, EC2M Membership: £2,400 a year devonshire.club

TEN TRINITY SQUARE

Ten Trinity Square, EC3N Membership: from £3,000 a year tentrinitysquare.com

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Dear Dior Alexander Fury on the eternal legacy of the ultimate couture house on its 70th anniversary

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HE WORK OF CHRISTIAN DIOR IS OFTEN SEEN AS THE APOTHEOSIS OF FASHION. The house’s triumph is knotted up, inextricably, with a particular place and time, entirely emblematic of a moment in history – of a moment in fashion – and of a man who changed the way the world looked. We are told that fashions fade, but style is eternal. However, Dior – the ultimate fashion house – has confounded all expectations, bucked all trends, and transcended fashion.

Seventy years after the spectacular debut of its genius founder, and sixty years after his death, the house of Christian Dior survives, indestructible. And so does the legacy of his ‘New Look’ – a fashion moment that, conversely, became eternal.

Text and images from Dior Catwalk: The Complete Collections (Thames & Hudson, 2017), the first comprehensive overview of the house of Dior, featuring more than 180 collections.

Courtesy Thames & Hudson

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“The signature of Dior isn’t just in the seams of his clothing; it’s an attitude, a state of mind”

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“Each designer seeks to capture a speck of the magic that exploded in 1947”

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01. JOHN GALLIANO A/W 2005-2006 02. JOHN GALLIANO S/S 2007 03. MARK BOHAN S/S & A/W 1976 04. GIANFRANCO FERRÉ S/S 1995 05. JOHN GALLIANO S/S 2003 06. YVES SAINT LAURENT A/W 1960-61 07. JOHN GALLIANO S/S 1997 08. RAF SIMONS S/S 2013 09. YVES SAINT LAURENT A/W 1960-61 10. JOHN GALLIANO S/S 1999 11. GIANFRANCO FERRÉ S/S 199112. JOHN GALLIANO S/S 1998

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Sienna Miller, the model, fashion designer and BAFTA-nominated actress, has made a triumphant return to the West End stage.

After a few difficult years, these are good times for Miller, as The Glossary discovers.

Words KAREN ANNE OVERTON

SiEN Interview

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IENNA MILLER WOULD BE THE FIRST TO ADMIT that the last time she trod the boards at a West End theatre her performance was met with a pleasant ripple of surprise, with The Times hailing her turn in 2011’s Flare Path at Haymarket’s Theatre Royal as her “acceptance as a grown-up stage actress”.

Six years later and Miller has returned to the London stage, tackling arguably one of the most compelling modern literature roles as Maggie in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof at the Young Vic. But if the elegant, luminous star is nervous, she certainly isn’t showing it. “This has taken a while to come around, and the truth is I have been desperate to start on the play,” she says.

“I really want to be out there in front of everyone. It’s come at the right time as I wouldn’t have wanted to wait any longer.”

Directed by Benedict Andrews, Tennessee Williams’ Pulitzer Prize-winning epic takes up residence with a family in crisis, gathering to celebrate the birthday of cotton tycoon, Big Daddy, on a hot and humid summer night in Mississippi.

The ‘cat’ in question is Maggie, a character fraught with anxiety over her husband Brick’s (Jack O’Connell) angry alcoholism following the suicide of his best friend. She compounds this mayhem with her own punishing dissatisfaction in trying to hold a marriage together for the sake of her husband’s inheritance.

Miller’s task in taking on this difficult character is not inconsiderable – in the film adaptation, Brick and Maggie were played

by Paul Newman and Elizabeth Taylor, who turned in performances of a standard that yielded Oscar nominations. Yet as an actor, 35-year-old Miller has a habit of playing bright and brilliant women teetering on the edge of oblivion. There’s society sweetheart Edie Sedgwick in Factory Girl (2006), and Dylan Thomas’ long-suffering wife Caitlin in The Edge of Love (2008). But, as she explains, this is simply the consequence of taking roles that offer genuine complexity.

“I don’t stereotype; I don’t go after a certain

retains considerable resilience.

“I don’t feel I’m trapped anymore by the image the media created about me, where I was known for all the wrong things,” she says.

“I have a measure of privacy now and that kind of space makes it so much more enjoyable to work.”

Born in New York but raised in London, Miller has always flitted between both cultures – boarding school in Ascot was followed by a year at the Lee Strasberg Theatre and Film Institute in New York. “In my head, I feel as though America is for work and London is home,” she says, despite her current situation which sees those roles reversed.

Certainly, the Alfie actress, who in 2011 was awarded £100,000 in damages from the News of the World after she became embroiled in the phone-hacking scandal, has spun her quirky, boho style, radiant beauty and highprofile love life perfectly across the Atlantic. Though not as headline-grabbing as she was in the noughties – apart from a recent stint as tabloid fodder following a reported romance with Brad Pitt – Miller admits she is much happier without the constant press intrusion.

“Today I feel I can lead a normal life,” she says. “It's a huge relief not to have to deal with the kind of stress that came from being haunted by the tabloids. I was also very vulnerable during the period around The Leveson Inquiry but I’m glad I fought as much as possible.”

Suffice to say, you won’t find Miller taking backstage selfies or Beyoncé-style photo-ops with her five-year-old daughter.

By her own admission, she “doesn’t really do” social media. “I’m a Luddite,” she says, laughing. “If I want to be business-savvy and make more money it would definitely be smart [to invest more time into it], but there’s something that I really resist about that kind of communication. I don’t think it’s making people particularly happy; I don’t think it’s making the world more interesting. On a deeper level, I’m concerned about the effect of it all on culture, but at the same time I’m a dinosaur for not doing it, especially in this industry.”

“I have been desperate to

start on the play. I really want to be out there in front of everyone. It’s the right time; I wouldn’t have wanted to wait any longer"

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type of person to embody,” she says. “I do love damaged personalities because they have so much depth and design in them.

“I think in a way that’s actually easier for an actor to invest in – you have so many different strands to navigate your way through. With that comes the danger of not doing that character justice,” she adds.

“But that’s still a much more attractive proposition than playing someone who doesn’t challenge you. For every character, I want to unmask them in a way that no-one before me has done.”

Miller has the kind of vim and vigour usually only seen in starlets new to the scene.

Indeed, for someone who has bathed in the spotlight for over 15 years and been hauled over the coals repeatedly for her choices, both professionally and romantically, she

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freer. I don’t feel the media pressure now and I can be the kind of woman I want to be"

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“I feel calmer and

Miller attributes the happiness in her personal life to the birth of her daughter, Marlowe, in July 2012. Although she has since separated from Marlowe’s actor father Tom Sturridge, they remain firm friends and co-parents, with Miller admitting that motherhood has transformed her outlook for the better. “I have a different life now,” she says. “My time revolves around my daughter, cooking for her, playing with her, simply enjoying watching her grow and being so happy with her. It’s a very peaceful and stable life with Marlowe and I feel much more at ease – calmer and freer.

I don’t feel the media pressure now and I can be the kind of woman I want to be.

“I also have a much better understanding of how I want to pursue my career. Having a child helps you focus more and gives you a clearer perspective on everything in your life. It’s hard for me to be apart from my daughter and that means choosing films more carefully. They would have to justify disrupting the kind of wonderful daily routine that I have with her.”

So far, this new approach appears to be working, with Miller garnering critical acclaim for the character roles she has chosen. In American Sniper (2014) she played the heartbroken wife of the deadliest marksman in US military history, who is unable to assimilate himself back into civilian life, with breathtaking candour; while she wowed as another devoted spouse in 2016’s The Lost City of Z. But despite her recent success, that reputation as an ‘it girl’ is hard to shake, and Miller has had to learn to stifle her own expectations as far as receiving praise is concerned. “I think perception is a huge part of this business and I understand that,” she says. “I was really famous in a celebrity way. I was constantly battling to say I was

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a serious person, so I think people just said, ‘Oh she’s fashionable’.

Then I had a baby and turned 30 and people were like, ‘Ooh, she’s an actor’. But I was always an actor – I just had good style or a famous boyfriend,” she sighs.

“I think that’s something I’ve learnt over time, that changing who you are doesn’t change what others think of you for a long, long time,” she adds. “That’s okay, because I know who I am, but you are still judged in a certain way by others long after you’ve moved on, and that’s a strange thing to contemplate if you let it fester.”

With her rigorous theatre schedule taking her up to October, Miller doesn’t have time to dwell. “Leading up to this play I hadn’t shot anything in a year,” she says. “Playing Maggie having gone in cold and fresh is really the best tribute I can offer the role. I think to myself, ‘Cat on a Hot Tin Roof in the West End – does it get any better than that?’”

She may just have a point.

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Buy Sell Share

pre-owned luxury fashion vestiairecollective.com

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STYLE The

Fashion notes

Emilia Wickstead’s romantic modernism Shoe trends + the designers to know

The accessories edit: sunglasses, jewellery and watches

Ciao Bella Bella Hadid confirms her supermodel status in Guiseppe Zanotti’s dazzling autumn campaign, shot by Mario Sorrenti. The collection is comprised of sumptuous feather, velvet and crystal-embellished shoes and boots.

Guiseppe Zanotti 49 Sloane Street, SW1 guiseppezanottidesign.com

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Fashion Notes Ruffles, oversize earrings and fans are this season’s style heroes

FAN FARE Forget the latest It-bag, the musthave statement accessory this summer is the fan, as seen on the FROW and at this season’s sunniest social events. Leading the way is new label Fern Fans, founded by fashion PR Daisy Hoppen and textile designer Amanda Borberg who have created a contemporary collection in a dreamy colour palette.

From £50; fernfans.com

Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

PRINTS CHARMING

Raising the Barr

With its clever edit of new designers and under-the-radar brands such as Rixo London, Mara Hoffman (above), Hunza G and Cloe Cassandro, Bass and Barr on the Kings Road is one of our favourite pit stops for new holiday essentials.

The eclectic furniture, homeware and artwork that adorn the stylish 1970s interior are also for sale.

Bass and Barr, 336 Kings Road, SW3

Etro presented a rich A/W17 collection full of clashing tribal, paisley and geometric prints that took inspiration from the heady days of the early 1970s.

The campaign, featuring Anna Ewers and shot by Juergen Teller in Berlin, perfectly captures the mood between the brand’s folk DNA and urban style.

Etro, 43 Old Bond Street, W1 etro.com

Name To Know

FRILL SEEKER “My clothes are an invitation to have fun” says Johanna Ortiz, the Columbian fashion designer whose name is on everyone’s shopping list. Ortiz’s signature ruffles, tiered skirts and off-the-shoulder eveningwear have a caught the current zeitgeist for dramatic shapes and voluminous billowing sleeves. Each silhouette is expertly crafted to accentuate the shoulders and waist, and combines feminine sensuality with a fashion edge.

Johanna Ortiz available at modaoperandi.com

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FLAT OUT

The much-coveted satin slipper by No 21 has redefined the evening flat shoe, and this season the oversized sculptural bow is bejewelled for added drama. A chic alternative to heels, elevate the glamour with this easy take on high-low dressing.

Satin mules by No 21, £375; harrods.com

KATERINA MAKRIYIANNI

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WA R D R O B E

INSIDER If you haven’t yet fallen under Vestiaire Collective’s spell (where have you been?), prepare to be enlightened.

In just eight years it has grown from a start-up in Paris to a global company with more than five million members, making it the leading online platform for buying and selling authenticated, pre-owned luxury fashion. There are more than 500,000 products from the most in-demand brands, including Hermès, Gucci and Chanel, all of which have been curated for their desirability and vetted by the in-house team of counterfeit experts. The VIP concierge team can arrange door-to-door collection, then photograph, list and store all of your items. Wardrobe detox home appointments are also available should you need someone else to do the hard work. vestiairecollective.com

MAKE A STATEMENT Bigger is Better

REBECCA DE RAVENEL The Shimmy silk earrings, £312; modaoperandi.com

OSCAR DE LA RENTA Beaded earrings, £442; mytheresa.com

Bold, glamorous and lots of fun, The Very Big Earring trend continues apace this season and next. Seen on the catwalks at Oscar de la Renta, Saint Laurent and JW Anderson among others, oversize ear candy is the perfect pairing with off-theshoulder tops.

GUCCI Marmont loafers, £350

HERMÈS vintage Kelly bag, £9,750

SAINT LAURENT Lou Lou tassel earrings, £425; mytheresa.com

GUCCI Crystal earrings, £640; net-a-porter.com

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Interview

Portrait of a

LADY From daytime polish to evening elegance, Emilia Wickstead has become London’s go-to designer for effortless and unashamedly feminine dressing Words LAUREN COCHRANE

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F YOU’RE BROWSING IN EMILIA WICKSTEAD’S SLOANE STREET STORE THIS SUMMER, don’t be surprised if you’re served by the woman herself. Wickstead, the London Fashion Week designer and outfitter of celebrities, loves nothing more than working in her eponymous boutique. “At least once a month I spend a day here to serve clients and learn what is selling well or if there are any problems with garments,” she says. “It’s great when they don’t know who I am. I take what I learn and think about it when I am designing.”

Such a personal approach perhaps explains how Wickstead’s label remains, nearly 10 years after she started it in her London apartment, resolutely female-friendly. With an aesthetic that puts dressing up centre stage, it’s never for the male gaze. Beginning with made-to-measure in 2008, when Wickstead was 25, and debuted at London Fashion Week four years later, her designs have always recalled a midcentury style. They are graceful, feminine, modest and pretty. If the word wasn’t outmoded, you might even call them ladylike.

But they are also practical – most come with sleeves, few have high hemlines. They’re the kind of clothes that have an impact yet also discretion.

No wonder the likes of Kate Middleton and Samantha Cameron are regular clients. Cameron wore Emilia Wickstead for her first appearance with her husband in Downing Street, while the Duchess of Cambridge has chosen her designs for public appearances ranging from the Queen’s garden party to a visit to Luxembourg. Wickstead has been worn on the red carpet, too, by starlets including Elizabeth Banks, Brie Larson and Guardian of the Galaxy’s Laura Haddock.

While she demurs from talking about the Duchess, 34-year-old Wickstead says the impact celebrities have is undeniable.

“Samantha’s dress was one of the first designs I did,” she says. “I made it at home on the living room floor and then suddenly it was in the papers and on the news. It’s incredible.” Increasingly,

Dior, Elsa Schiaparelli and Jeanne Lanvin are heroes.

Wickstead is too street smart for a mentor, but she admires Raf Simon. “At Dior he knew not to over-experiment,” she says. “He used the tradition in the archive but gave a modern twist to it.

That is something I have been doing since I started.”

Wickstead is a funny mixture of open, charming conversationalist and a take-noprisoners businesswoman. Take, for example, when I ask her during our chat in June, for any clues as to what will be coming for her next collection, spring/ summer 2018, to be shown in September. “No clues,” she says, nice but firm, shutting the question down. She does, however, reveal something of the creative process. “We’re signing off the designs over the next couple of days,” she says. “Then it will all be made in calico and it will change again as it goes from drawing to garment. This is my favourite part.”

It was almost written in the stars that Wickstead would become a designer. She grew up the daughter of a dressmaker mother in New Zealand, moving to Milan as a teenager. She describes the Italian capital as “enlightening, because everyone dresses up all the time”, and credits her art teacher Dennis Cooper, “who would sit with me for hours and talk to me about fashion”. It was in London, however, where she felt most at home. “I first came here when I was younger because my aunty lived in London,” she says.

“I remember being in Notting Hill and Shepherd’s Bush and being enchanted by the stores. I felt like you could be who you wanted to be here.”

Central Saint Martins – the alma mater of Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and Roksanda Ilincic – came calling. After studying design and marketing there, she worked for Giorgio Armani, Proenza Schouler and Narciso Rodriguez, and interned for American Vogue. Her own brand, however, was always the dream.

“I don’t know if it is because I was an only child,” she reflects, “but I always had a strong belief in what I wanted to do.”

“I remember being in Notting Hill and being enchanted by the stores.

I felt like you could be who you wanted to be here"

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however, social media is keeping pace with celebrity for a boost in sales. The Fede dress, a pretty, frilled-sleeve design posted on the brand’s Instagram account, swiftly sold out.

Part of Wickstead’s success comes from a strong design identity. She says her aesthetic “mixes tradition but makes it for the modern woman. There’s an architectural line but enough detail to make it not purely commercial.” References provide crucial inspiration – this autumn’s collection features Natalia de Shabelsky, the Russian noblewoman and photographer who, in the 19th century, travelled through Russia collecting folk art clothes and textiles. In the past, Frank Lloyd Wright and Vogue photographer Erwin Blumenfeld have been on the moodboard, while Christian

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STYLE

Wickstead is unapologetically commercial.

She says she wanted “to make money and build a business. Maybe my mother installed that in me.” The designer certainly has a chutzpah of a young entrepreneur – early in her career, she phoned Vogue pretending to her own assistant, making one of the team look at her website. The stunt earned her a half-page in the magazine.

Wickstead also isn’t afraid of asking for help from those closest to her.

Her husband Daniel Gargiulo ran the accounts until they appointed a CEO, and her mother worked as her patterncutter in the beginning – but she now has other duties, as a grandmother. Wickstead has two children under four and says her family life is key to her feeling that London is her spiritual home. “My children are British. You learn when you’re bringing up children here that there’s a wonderful community spirit,” she says. “My perfect London day would involve the sun shining and I would be sitting in one of the garden squares.”

While those customers in Sloane Street are key to Wickstead’s way of working, her own wardrobe needs are also essential. She says if she can’t imagine herself wearing

something, it doesn’t get made. Jeans – hardly a classic Wickstead item – made their first appearance in a collection this season, partly due to her experience of being a working mother. “I live in our highwaisted jeans on the weekend, with shirts and knits, when I am with the kids. The fun starts in the evening when I am able to pull something out of my wardrobe. It’s about having that balance.”

Wickstead is a London success story that contrasts against the experimentation that the fashion crowd is used to. She is has made her store the go-to destination for unapologetically pretty clothes. Established on the global stage, selling everywhere from the UK to Switzerland and Qatar, with jewellery and shoes also available, it’s time for next steps. Would she ever want to design for a house, à la Simons? The silence says it all. “Ye-e-ss,” says Wickstead finally. While she could no doubt get her teeth into a heritage brand – a Lanvin, perhaps, or a Schiaparelli – she is not the type to spill the beans. Instead she simply says, “I would love to work with an archive”.

Going on the Wickstead story so far, you’d say it’s only a matter of time.

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GLOSSARY FAVOURITE RESTAURANT The Parlour – they have an incredible menu. I love the turquoise dining room, which feels like you could be in someone’s house. parlourkensal.com BEST BAR The Ladder Shed at the Chiltern Firehouse for cocktails. This is my home away from home. I love the interior design and, of course, the Emilia Wickstead uniforms. chilternfirehouse.com HIDDEN GEM It’s not exactly hidden but when my husband and I first started dating we used to go to Primrose Hill; now we take the kids. It has always felt like a different bit of London.

CULTURE FIX I love getting lost in the Victoria and Albert Museum – when you turn a corner and there’s somewhere new to go. The building is beautiful, too. vam.ac.uk TOP SHOP Moda Operandi always has the most amazing things. It’s also where I found the interior designer for my store – Fran Hickman. modaoperandi.com

EMILIA WICKSTEAD AUTUMN/WINTER 2017

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BAHINA Multi-stone earrings £2,160; modaoperandi.com

LUISA BECCARIA Tulle embroidered dress, £3,290; modaoperandi.com

DIOR

Blue Belle

GUCCI Silk dress, £3,230; farfetch.com

Azure skies, turquoise waters – 50 shades of holidays

NOOR FARES Nellum multistone ring, £5,900; net-a-porter.com

Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

FOUNDRAE Karma necklace, £1,716; modaoperandi.com

EDIE PARKER Clutch bag, £1,050; farfetch.com

BALENCIAGA Triangle duffle S bag, £995; matchesfashion.com

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KALEOS Musgrove sunglasses, £160; kaleoseyehunters.com

MARCO DE VINCENZO Velvet braided sandals, £730; farfetch.com

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STYLE

MUGLER A/W 2017

FERN FANS Gradient fan, £50; fernfans.com

PETER PILOTTO Embroidered crepe skirt, £1,595; selfridges.com

MARY KATRANTZOU A/W 2017

DIOR Steel watch, £4,300; dior.com

ROCHAS Embellished satin slides, £570; harrods.com

DELFINA DELETTREZ, Stone earring, £590; luisaviaroma.com

ANNA OCTOBER Wool jacket, £510; modaoperandi.com

JOHANNA ORTIZ Cotton top, £600; modaoperandi.com

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BALENCIAGA Chiffon scarf, £225; matchesfashion.com

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E L O ING

H C R A Stay a step ahead in the style stakes with our guide to the hottest shoe trends. From slide to stiletto, just add attitude Words HARRIET QUICK

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STYLE

N

othing signals a new direction in fashion quite like a shoe. The design of footwear is a cipher of our times, an indicator of where dreams and aspirations lie. Right now, shoe designers are on the one hand fixated on bringing back a sense of drama and decadence to shoes, and on the other they are responding to our demands for easy styles that we can slip around town in while still looking sharp. In other words, styles to bridge the penthouse and the pavement.

That’s where the slide comes into its own this summer. This backless, highly polished design has character and daring, exposing the eroticism of the bare heel. They make one glide rather than stomp. Some of the most tempting versions come from Malone Souliers, with its pointy-toe calf-leather designs decorated with a graphic metal button; Nicholas Kirkwood, with his slim-line loafer/slippers; and Stella McCartney, who has channelled her penchant for mixing memes into a backless loafer in vegan leather topped with a snaffle. There’s always a red shoe in the mix – they are loaded with folkloric symbolism as a coming-of-age shoe. JW Anderson stirs the symbolism in a lipstick-red backless ballet flat with wraparound ribbon ties.

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marykatrantzou.com

Pre-Fall 2017 Erik-Madigan Heck London

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TOP LEFT: BURBERRY STRETCH-KNIT BOOTS, £695; BURBERRY.COM. TOP RIGHT: SAINT LAURENT EDIE 110 SANDALS, £685; FARFETCH.COM

STYLE

“We should at all times keep a strict watch on the activities of the feet. Because they are the furthest extremities, we are told, it is the feet that above all take on a life of their own, especially in conversation, twisting, shuffling, tapping out their version of what their owner is really thinking,” wrote Vogue in 1978. So be forewarned when wearing this style – slides can be endlessly shuffled on and off. The message being that one’s clothes might just do the same.

But despite the ease, women cannot live by flats alone. The new season heralds a taste for the decadent with plush velvets, metallic leathers and plenty of fetishistic buckled ankle straps. Charlotte Olympia has fashioned gorgeous cherry-red crushed velvet into a twist-front party heel that boasts a gold lining and, fittingly, is called the Broadway. These are shoes that throw caution to the wind when it comes to economic turbulence – the tougher the times, the tougher women tend to fight back in the fashion department. There’s

exuberance, too, in Christian Louboutin’s flame cut-out stilettoes and Manolo Blahnik’s divine marabou feather mules that would suit a Fellini heroine.

Looking ahead to September’s return to work, pay attention to the fad for the sock stiletto boot. It first appeared on the catwalks of Balenciaga and Fendi and the style has now spread like wildfire.

Designs combine a sculpting dense-knit sock upper (to the ankle and even to the thigh) with a blade heel, and exude Nikita-worthy kick-ass attitude. Try Burberry’s black versions for size. They conjure up the sex, power and glamour of the 1980s and are made to stride across boardrooms and bedrooms with the silhouette matched by the new boldshouldered trouser suits. What does this shoe says about our times? Empowered.

Heels

From left: CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA, £545; charlotteolympia.com. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN, £477; net-a-porter.com. AQUAZZURA, £490; aquazzura.com. MANOLO BLAHNIK, £680; farfetch.com. SOPHIA WEBSTER, £595; sophiawebster.com. GUCCI, £1,290; gucci.com

Mules

Top row, from left: JW ANDERSON, £540; j-w-anderson.com. ALBERTA FERRETTI, £645; farfetch.com. MALONE SOULIERS + ROKSANDA, £395; matchesfashion.com. STELLA MCCARTNEY, £450; stellamccartney.com. Bottom row, from left: GUCCI, £480; selfridges.com. LE MONDE BERYL, £295; modaoperandi.com. NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD, £315; farfetch.com. PROENZA SCHOULER, £435; net-a-porter.com

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WALK THIS WAY Good shoes take you to good places, so the saying goes. Here is our guide to the best British shoe designers and boutiques in the capital

Jimmy Choo

SANDRA CHOI

Words CHARLOTTE ADSETT

JIMMY CHOO

Who: Bespoke shoemaker Jimmy Choo started out in London’s East End in the late 1980s, and his handmade designs soon caught the eye of Vogue and celebrities including Princess Diana.

Thanks in part to Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and The City, the label grew to international fame. Today, creative director Sandra Choi (Mr Choo’s niece) oversees collections of handbags, sunglasses and perfumes alongside the shoes. The brand has just been bought

by Michael Kors for $1.2 billion.

USP: Adored by the A-list, the highheeled strappy sandals are perfect for the red carpet and the dance floor.

Signature shoe: ‘Lance’ leather sandals, £550 (top left and right).

27 New Bond Street, W1 jimmychoo.com

NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD

NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD

Who: Since setting up his eponymous label in 2005, Nicholas Kirkwood has won the British Fashion Awards’ Best Accessory Designer accolade three times – the brand’s cutting-edge design married with traditional high craft is renowned. The Beya Bespoke service offers the option to create custom-

made loafers or mules from a wide selection of leathers and exotic skins, with initials monogrammed onto the shoe.

USP: Standout, graphic styles are inspired by modern art, sculpture and architecture. Faux pearls have become a trademark addition.

Signature shoe: ‘Casati’ patent pumps, £495 (bottom left).

5 Mount Street, W1 nicholaskirkwood.com

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA

Who: Taking inspiration from Old Hollywood and bygone pin-ups, Charlotte herself is the embodiment of the brand with her 1940s retro glamour aesthetic. From the ‘Kitty’ flat pumps to the towering platforms, her kitsch, tongue-in-cheek styles are instantly recognisable. Covetable seasonal collections reference cult movements, cinema noir and iconic style from Mexicana to Carmen Miranda.

USP: Quirky statement shoes that will elevate your outfit and mood.

Signature shoe: ‘Dolly’ suede platform courts, £545 (below).

56 Maddox Street, W1 charlotteolympia.com

Nicholas Kirkwood

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JIMMY CHOO

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA

Charlotte Olympia

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STYLE

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA

Rupert Sanderson

RUPERT SANDERSON

RUPERT SANDERSON

Who: Following stints working under shoe maestros Sergio Rossi and Bruno Magli, Sanderson founded his own label in 2001.

His elegant shoes have since attracted a loyal following – the Duchess of Cambridge is a big fan of his perennial classic ‘Malory’ court shoes in navy.

A distinctive gold-coloured nameplate makes every shoe identifiably his – and each style is named after a daffodil.

USP: A ‘less is more’ philosophy.

The focus on fit and shape ensures even the highest heels are comfortable to wear.

Signature shoe: ‘Malory’ suede courts, £440 (top left).

19 Bruton Place, W1 rupertsanderson.com

SOPHIA WEBSTER

NICHOLAS KIR KWOOD

Who: A former protégé of Nicholas Kirkwood, Sophia Webster’s star has risen in a very short space of time. With a background in Fine Art, her designs are all hand-drawn and conceptualised from her HQ in east London. Beloved of the younger fashion set, expect a riot of colour,

hyper-real detailing and a playful, feminine touch.

USP: Flirty and fun. Bold pops of colour plus lashings of angel wings and butterflies = Barbie’s dream shoe collection.

Signature shoe: ‘Chiara’ butterfly leather sandal, £450 (bottom left).

124 Mount Street, Mount Street Mews, W1 sophiawebster.com

GINA

Who: Established in London in 1954 by master shoemaker Mehmet Kurdash, Gina was named after Mehmet’s muse, Italian film actress Gina Lollobrigida. Every shoe is handcrafted using the finest skins and precious embellishments with traditional skills passed down the generations of the family – the label remains in the Kurdash family to this day. Gina is the last luxury footwear label to be produced in London.

USP: Sky-high sculpted heels and flat sandals adorned with crystals.

Signature shoe: ‘Babette’ Swarovski mules, £795 (below).

119 Mount Street, W1 gina.com

JIMMY CHOO

Gina

SOPHIA WEBSTER

Sophia Webster NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD

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STYLE

In the Shade All eyes are on this summer’s hottest sunglasses Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

TOP: PRADA, £344; harrods.com ROW 1, FROM LEFT: GUCCI, £735; gucci.com. KAREN WALKER, £195; libertylondon.com. DITA, £510; farfetch.com. LINDA FARROW, £215; lindafarrow.com ROW 2, FROM LEFT: KALEOS, £160; kaleoseyehunters.com. PUCCI, £170; harveynichols.com. COURRÈGES, £455; farfetch.com. FAKBYFAK, £480; fakbyfak.com ROW 3, FROM LEFT: MATTHEW WILLIAMSON, £170; net-a-porter.com. ANNA KARIN-KARLSON, £500; harrods.com. FENDI, £370; brownsfashion.com ROW 4, FROM LEFT: FINEST SEVEN, £340; finestseven.com. DOLCE & GABBANA, £383; harrods.com. MOY ATELIER, £295; moyatelier.com

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Wild at

HEART Beat the heat with crisp shirting, flowing lines and simple shapes for a look that’s both modern and timeless Photography LUCIA O’CONNOR-MCCARTHY Stylist LORNA MCGEE

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TATA NAKA Silk dress, £970.

DINNY HALL Gold locket necklace, from £210; Gold earrings, £240.

SOPHIE BILLE BRAHE Diamond necklace, £950.

GFG JEWELLERY Diamond bracelet, £1,250 (jewellery worn throughout)

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STELLA MCCARTNEY Lace dress, £2,425

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OPPOSITE PAGE: EMILIA WICKSTEAD Double crepe dress, £1,805 THIS PAGE: CONNOLLY Silk dinner jacket, £POA, Cotton polo top, £235.

ADRIANA DEGREAS Quilted skirt, £370

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REJINA PYO ‘Greta’ cotton dress, £695

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THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE: REJINA PYO Velvet dress, £725

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PHOTOGRAPHY Lucia O’Connor-McCarthy DIGITAL ASSISTANT George Zenko STYLIST Lorna McGee ART DIRECTOR Charlotte Adsett MODEL Isabella at Premier MAKE-UP ARTIST Adam de Cruz using Marc Jacobs HAIR STYLIST Louis Byrne at The London Style Agency using Oribe hair products LOCATION Chelsea Physic Gardens STOCKISTS adrianadegreas.com connollyengland.com dinnyhall.com emiliawickstead.com gfgjewellery.com net-a-porter.com sophiebillebrahe.com stellamccartney.com takanaka.com

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STYLE VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Brooch, £POA; vancleefarpels.com

NOOR FARES Necklaces, £4,500 each; libertylondon.com

DIOR Earrings, £2,600; dior.com BEE GODDESS Ear cuff, £2,885; harrods.com

TIFFANY Earrings, £POA; tiffany.co.uk

BENTLEY & SKINNER Brooch, £17,500; bentley-skinner.co.uk

DIANE KORDAS Ring, £1,910; dianekordasjewellery.com

Out of This World CHANEL Ring, £7,300; chanel.com

JUDITH LEIBER Clutch bag, £3,900; judithleiber.com

From shooting stars to crescent moons, celestial jewels take you to infinity – and beyond Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT DIANE KORDAS Earring, £1,345; dianekordasjewellery.com

SYDNEY EVAN Earrings, £1,350; modaoperandi.com SOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE Ring, £3,900; solange.co.uk

KATE MOSS X ARA VARTANIAN Earrings, £2,600; harveynichols.com CLAUDIA ODDI Mono earring, £7,320; modaoperandi.com

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TIME for

ACTION Watch brands are racing to meet the demand for women’s sports watches that combine function with finesse Words AVRIL GROOM

A

T C H O PA R D ’ S PRESENTATION IN BASEL THIS YEAR I was examining a women’s diving watch with signature Happy Diamonds floating inside and wondering at the bravado of popping loose diamonds into a watch that can go down to a depth of 300 metres. The Happy Ocean is an assertive (40mm) yet feminine version of a classic diving watch, with a rich blue dial and rotating bezel, a quadrant of which is in sharp turquoise or raspberry pink, colours which also outline the hands. The numbers and indicators are clear white in daylight but glow in the dark – and in the depths of the ocean.

Then, an even bigger surprise appeared on the black velvet tray. As if those little bubble-like diamonds were not enough, there is a jewellery version of Happy Ocean, its quadrant set with bright rubies or blue topazes, with an alligator strap (there is an alternative water-resistant fabric Nato strap, as on the standard model). The jewelled bezel does not rotate but it is still waterresistant to 100 metres so you can swim with it in confidence. Just the thing for impressing both in and out of the water this summer.

Both these Chopard models illustrate just how far women’s sports watches have come, as all the major watch brands place more focus on designing serious watches for

OPPOSITE PAGE: CHOPARD Happy Ocean, £6,200; chopard.com THIS PAGE: ROLEX Yacht-Master 40, £48,100; rolex.com

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women suited to today’s active lifestyles, just as they have for men for many years. Gratifyingly, most don’t follow the old industry habit of simply putting some diamonds on what is essentially a man’s watch – these are properly designed for women and proved hugely popular at June’s Baselworld watch fair.

Like men, many women now have a ‘wardrobe’ of watches in different styles to suit different occasions. The sports watch is a casual, weekend option that contrasts with, for example, a sober gold timepiece for work and a gem-encrusted number for evenings. If your lifestyle is sufficiently glamorous even your sports watch has gems, but there are many other equally good-looking models if you prefer to leave the diamonds at home when heading to the gym.

The diving watch is the archetypal sports style and blue is the mood of the moment for women’s models – and not just at Chopard. Blancpain’s latest version of the iconic Fifty Fathoms is another beautiful example – technically unisex at 38mm wide but, in this elegantly sporty style, very good on a woman’s wrist.

More accessibly Oris, which makes extremely reasonable mechanical watches and has a long history in sports models, has several versions of its Aquis women’s functional diving watch in a deep blue, including diamond hour dots and a choice of steel bracelet or leather or rubber straps. Tag Heuer also now has the neat 35mm ladies’ Aquaracer in a bright blue, its mother-of-pearl dial perfectly matched to the bezel. It is fully functional, water-resistant to 300 metres and, with a top-quality quartz movement, a very good entry point to the genre.

Diving watches are the most obviously sporty timepieces, but as in the water so in the sky – the deep blue theme recurs in aviation-inspired models, too. Take IWC’s new Da Vinci Automatic 38, their first watch designed specifically for women in many decades. Given that IWC’s slogan used to be “engineered for men”, this shows just how seriously women’s models

“Like men, many women now have a ‘wardrobe’ of watches for all occasions"

are in today’s watch market. The Da Vinci is all beautiful curves, with its circular face, round date window, swirling patterns taken from the Tree of Life symbol engraved on the caseback, and a delicate version of the brand’s favoured vintage dashboard numerals. There’s a very pretty moonphase in the range, as well as the requisite diamond model, but the most striking version is in blue. This also applies to Hublot’s Classic Fusion with its riveted bezel reminiscent of old-fashioned plane windows – the small version in dark blue on rose gold is simply beautiful.

Blue does not always dominate, however. Breitling’s Galactic 32 Sleek is a miniature sports watch, best in steel and gold bi-colour bracelet with a sunny gold dial. It’s dressy enough that it could take you from tennis court to cocktail bar. Bell & Ross, closely associated with aviation style and riveted, square cases with rounded corners, have downsized to

39mm for the beautifully simple Novarosa in soft satin steel with a blush pink dial – diamond bezel optional. Returning to the water, Corum’s new Admiral Legend 38 has a refined version of its iconic multi-coloured flag symbols on a simple white dial and strap, while Chanel’s latest version of the alwayssporty J12 is monochrome fun – the hands are the arms of a very authoritative-looking Mademoiselle Coco cartoon, in an upmarket take on the famous Snoopy watch.

Another sports favourite is the chronograph, which implies you could sprint off at any moment.

A winner is Omega’s new Speedmaster 38 with its oval subdials and mouthwatering colours such as mink or deep olive green, available with or without diamonds. Louis Vuitton’s new Tambour Moon Star Chronograph, meanwhile, slims down the classic case shape with a concave profile, adds diamond markers and a mother-of-pearl dial, and replaces the third subdial with a rotating rose gold star logo. It offers many colours of selfchanging strap to suit your mood.

Some of the best sports watches are unique, standalone designs. Victorinox’s tough-looking INOX V in grey with flashes of hot pink is both watch and survival aid – the threads of its plaited Paracord strap help make anything from a parachute to a fishing line, should you find yourself in a tight spot. Patek Philippe’s new women’s Aquanaut Luce 5072 in rose gold with a mother-of-pearl dial vies in beauty with Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Frosted Gold, available in 33mm and 37mm models. Jeweller Carolina Bucci, has used her Florentine gold-engraving technique to make it glitter like sunlit snow. Finally, Rolex’s new ‘Tutti Frutti’ iteration of its YachtMaster 40 – the ultimate diving watch – features a Technicolor bezel in brilliant, variously shaded sapphires, tsavorites and one diamond. You may not want to risk it in the sea (although it would cope admirably), but it makes you smile and, as sports watches signal relaxation, it’s all the better for that.

THIS PAGE: IWC Da Vinci Automatic 36, £4,450; iwc.com

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STYLE UET AUDEMARS PIG sted Gold 37, Royal Oak Fro 0; £43,30 uet.com audemarspig

CORUM Admiral Legend 38, £2,500; corum.ch

BLANCPAIN 38, Fifty Fathoms £6,950; blancpain.com

PE PATEK PHILIP5072, e Aquanaut Luc £63,380; patek.com

OMEGA Speedmaster 38, £8,640 omegawatch; es.com

BREITLING Galactic 32 Sle ek, £9,340; breitling.com

HUBLOT , Classic Fusion £23,100; hublot.com

TAG HEUER Aquaracer, £1,650; tagheuer.com

LOUIS VUITTON Tambour Moon Star, £2,280; louisvuitton.com

BELL & ROSS nds, Diamo Novarosa Full ; £5,300 bellross.com

CHAN J12 Mademois EL elle, £5, chanel.com 900;

Watch The

VICTORINOX INOX V, £479; victorinox.com

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ORIS Aquis Date, £1,100; oris.ch

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BEAUTY The

News and reviews

& WELLNESS

Modern cult fragrances

Xochi Balfour’s mindful life London’s top facialists on skincare essentials Sensory yoga: just add colour

Let Your Hair Down Summer is not the time for formal up-dos or poker-straight locks – add volume and movement for beachy waves. To get the look, arm yourself with the new Texture collection from Moroccan Oil, which includes a texturising mousse, spray and clay. moroccanoil.com

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Beauty Notes Floral crowns, brush-on perfume and colour-pop make-up are the buzzwords of the moment Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

NAILED IT

Tapping into the demand for ‘clean’ beauty, The Mondrian London’s Agua Bathhouse & Spa has added Bio Sculpture Gel to its manicure menu. The gel polish system contains no harmful chemicals and boasts the world’s first oxygenating brush-on gel technology that allows your nails to breathe.

From £60; morganshotelgroup.com

POWDER POWER

Byredo’s Kabuki Perfume it is a completely different way to wear perfume. e retractable brush dispenses micro-fine translucent powder packed with fragrance particles that diffuse when dusted on to the skin. Available in Byredo’s most beloved scents: Bal D’Afrique, Blanche and Gypsy Water. £42; byredo.com

Hair Trend

CROWNING GLORY Just when we thought flower headpieces had been relegated to the festival fashion of yesteryear, Rodarte reminded us why this is such a timeless style with his ode to A Midsummer Night’s Dream at the recent spring 2018 couture shows in Paris.

Hair stylist Oldie Gibson and florist Joseph Free created floral crowns made of gypsophilia blossoms for a bohemian beauty look to bookmark. rodarte.com

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COMING UP ROSES

The hotly anticipated Sisley Black Rose Skin Infusion Cream – the newest addition to Sisley’s coveted Black Rose collection – is now here. With black rose extract, rosewater and essential oils, this daily cream plumps, brightens and comforts skin. £128 at Selfridges; selfridges.com

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BEAUTY

Lip Service

Make a statement with a bold pop of colour 1

2

3

SUN SEEKERS

4

Create bold colour-block looks for hot days and even hotter nights with the new limited-edition Solar Pop collection from Yves Saint Laurent Beauty. The hero product is the Bronzing Stones palette, a silky-matte bronzer that gives skin a healthy sun-kissed look.

5

YSL.COM AND IN STORES NOW

6

Hair Today Legendary session stylist Sam McKnight has taken four decades of working backstage at shows and on fashion shoots to develop a game-changing range of hair styling products. The first drop of The Hair by Sam McKnight consists of four sprays designed to create his signature donebut-dishevelled-cool-girlstyle for which he is known.

From £19, exclusively at Liberty; libertylondon.com

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7 1. CHARLOTTE TILBURY Hot Lips in Electric Poppy, £24; charlottetilbury.com 2. BURBERRY Kisses in Poppy Red 105, £25, spacenk.com 3. TOM FORD Lip Colour in Wild Ginger, £40; harrods.com 4. SENSAI The Lipstick in No.13, £41, sensai-cosmetics.co.uk 5. CHANEL Rouge Coco Shine in Golden Sun, £28; chanel.com 6. YVES SAINT LAURENT Rouge Pur Couture in Fuschia Innocent No.27, £28, yslbeauty.com 7. MARC JACOBS Le Marc Lip Crème in So Sophia, £25, harrods.com

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Lizzie Ostrom, co-curator of Somerset House’s summer exhibition Perfume, reveals the mysterious art of fragrance Words LAURA ARCHER

F

ashion, shoes, handbags – all have been the subject of recent landmark exhibitions, earning their rightful place in the cultural hall of fame.

But fragrance has often been overlooked as an art form – until now, with Somerset House’s summer-long exploration of the art of perfume, in which visitors are led on a multi-sensory journey through different themed rooms to identify various scents and record their reactions to them.

“Perfume is a complex subject,” says Lizzie Ostrom, aka fragrance writer and expert Odette Toilette, who has co-curated the exhibition. “It’s a commercial product that you can buy on any high street; it’s about maths and chemicals so it’s very scientific; yet it’s also an art form – and a democratic one at that. You can get hold of a bottle and instantly enter the world of the creator, so it’s much more accessible than other forms of art.”

The exhibition is based around 10 modern cult fragrances – yet many will be unfamiliar to all but the most dedicated perfume buff. “What’s interesting and appealing isn’t necessarily what’s famous or widely

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available,” Ostrom explains. “We wanted to find a set of perfumes that, taken together, would confound your expectations of what perfume is and might even shock you or make you think twice about what you’re putting on your skin. And we wanted to demonstrate the craft and exceptional approach of a particular perfumer.”

Key highlights include Purple Rain, Daniela Andrier’s modern reinvention of the classic iris scent for Prada; Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules, which Ostrom describes as “the perfume of the last decade”; and El Cosmico, which evokes the smell of the Texan desert.

And if the exhibition leaves you wanting to find a new signature scent, Ostrom has some tips on where to look. “You can get really accomplished, beautifully structured fragrances within Prada’s main range,” she says. “And fashion houses like Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga do gorgeous, directional perfumes.”

‘Perfume: A Sensory Journey Through Contemporary Scent’ runs until 17 September. somersethouse.org.uk

Lizzie’s 2017 picks Dryad by Papillon Perfumery “A very shady, mossy perfume with loads of narcissus that I’ve been wearing a lot.”

Aura by Thierry Mugler

“Mugler always releases scents that are different and challenging and Aura is very clever.”

Escentric 04 by Escentric Molecules “Built around the synthetic material Javanol, which is just as nuanced as natural sandalwood.”

Aedes de Venustas Pélargonium “It’s unusual

to get a geranium fragrance but this one works brilliantly for summer”

Epidor by Lubin

“This has an interesting wheat note and is really luscious.”

Where to buy: Liberty of London

Great Marlborough Street, W1B

Le Labo, Frederic Malle, Escentric Molecules, Byredo… you’ll find a perfumer’s treasure trove beneath the starspangled dome of Liberty’s perfume hall. libertylondon.com

Bloom

4 Langley Court, WC2A

There are no mainstream perfumes here, just niche fragrances expertly selected for their craft, plus there’s a lab where you can make your own bespoke scent. bloomperfume.co.uk

Les Senteurs

Specialising in rare and specialist perfumes curated by ‘family’, such as oriental, green, chypre and leather/ tobacco. Brands include Papillon, Creed and Houbigant. lessenteurs.com

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BEAUTY

Aroma erapy Get your fragrance fix with our pick of this season’s new perfumes Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

CLOCKWISE, FROM BOTTOM LEFT: AERIN Rose de Grasse d’Or, with top notes of Ambrette seeds and Bulgarian rose, £750; exclusively at harrods.com. MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN Aqua Celestia, with top notes of lime and blackcurrant, £130; lessenteurs.com. ORMONDE JAYNE White Gold, with top notes of jasmine absolute and white musk, £260; ormondejayne.com.

PRADA Les Infusions de Prada Rose, with top notes of rose and neroli, £94; harveynichols.com. ACQUA DI PARMA Colonia Pura, with top notes of bergamot and orange, £170; selfridges.com. TOM FORD Velvet Orchid, with top notes of citrus and honey, £79; selfridges.com. BULGARI Goldea The Roman Night, with top notes of bergamot and black pepper, £68; harrods.com. VIKTOR & ROLF Flowerbomb Bloom, with top notes of Damascus rose and freesia, £45; selfridges.com. VILHELM PARFUMERIE Don’t Tell Jasmine, with top notes of jasmine and lemon, £155; libertylondon.com. GUERLAIN Mon Guerlain, with top notes of lavender and vanilla, £45; fenwick.co.uk. DOLCE & GABBANA Velvet Amber Skin, with top notes of bergamot and lavender, £200; harrods.com. BYREDO Velvet Haze, with top notes of Ambrette and coconut water, £142; libertylondon.com. ROJA PARFUMS London, with top notes of bergamot and lavender, £225; rojaparfums.com

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BEAUTY

Rose Garden Whether it be their healing fragrance or their blush hue, these rose-themed products are delicate, elegant and ideal for summer Compiled by CATHERINE HALES

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP MIDDLE: JURLIQUE Rosewater Balancing Mist Intense, £45; jurlique.co.uk. RÉVIVE Fermitif neck renewal cream SPF15, £100; panachecosmetics.com. LAURA MERCIER Infusion de Rose Nourishing Crème, £55; spacenk.com. CHANEL Shimmering scented gel trio, £60; chanel.com. BARE MINERALS Rose Radiance powder, £21; bareminerals.co.uk. DIPTYQUE Infused face oil, £48; libertylondon.com JO MALONE Red Roses bath oil, £42; jomalone.co.uk. VALENTINO Valentina Poudre eau de parfum, £62; harrods.com. GROWN ALCHEMIST hand cream, £17; grownalchemist.com.

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LOVE THE SKIN

YOU’RE IN Step away from the serum, put down the toner – is what you’re putting on your skin really helping? We asked London’s top facialists to guide us through the maze of skincare products out there Words LAURA ARCHER

P

erhaps the best skincare routine advice I’ve ever received has been, somewhat perversely, to do less. Stop layering on product after product. Halve the number of steps in my nightly regime. Cut out the dab of this here, the dot of that there, the exfoliators, the acids, the masks. Just a few essentials, used correctly, would make a massive difference, I was assured. And it did.

These wise words came from Teresa Tarmey, facialist to the stars, who has just opened a new clinic in Kensington and announced a residency at the Vivamayr clinic in Austria.

“People are using too many products in the wrong way,” she asserts. “There are so many products out there, I don’t know where to start myself – let alone the average consumer.”

Tarmey is not alone in seeing a saturation point in the skincare market. “It’s all about key ingredients rather than products,” says Debbie Thomas, who has a clinic in Chelsea and another within Harvey Nichols. “People are spending a lot of time and money trying to maintain or improve their skin without getting any benefits or results. That’s because you need the right ingredients for your skin in good formulations.”

Nichola Joss, who treats the likes of Scarlett Johansson, Gisele Bundchen and Gwyneth Paltrow in her pop-up clinics around the world, agrees. “Too many products are not going to be productive for the skin,” she says. “Pare back and consider what your skin really needs.” Leading facialist Sarah Chapman, creator of the cult Skinesis range of products, also cautions against a one-solution-fits-all approach. “Every client’s skincare journey is unique to them,” she says.

“Our needs differ with time because our skin changes so frequently.”

In an age where flawless skin has become something of a status symbol, it’s no wonder we’re all guilty of buying into the hype

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“There is so much scrutiny over how you should look and so many solutions – clients are confused"

around the latest miracle product. “I am constantly asked by my clients whether they should try this or that,” says Alexandra Soveral, whose organic skincare range and signature facial massage technique has legions of fans. “Within the media there is so much scrutiny over how you should look at a certain age, and so many different solutions out there compared to 10 years ago, my clients are confused.”

So where should we start? One thing that everyone agrees on is the importance of a good cleanser. “Cleansing is paramount for a healthy complexion,” Chapman asserts. “Thorough cleaning removes dead skin cells which will combat dullness and reveal clearer, brighter skin and enable the products you apply afterwards to better penetrate the skin.” Soveral agrees: “A good quality cleansing balm full of essential fatty acids and nutrients is so important to invest in,” she says.

“Fat removes fat so by massaging an oil into pores you are in effect dissolving the top layer of the pore. When you remove the balm, that should come away with it.”

The second key lesson is to choose products with pharmaceuticalgrade ingredients that are clinically proven to work. “My basic recommendation to anyone is to move away from high-street beauty brands,” says Thomas. “Some products might contain vitamin C, for

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BEAUTY

example, but if it is a low percentage and not stable then it can be pretty useless.”

For extra care overnight, Tarmey and Thomas extol the virtues of retinol – “this helps with age management but is also great at balancing the skin, it targets pigmentation, acne, enlarged pores and minimises wrinkles,” Thomas enthuses – while Chapman, Soveral and Joss are fans of a high-quality antioxidant facial oil. In the morning, all stress how vital an SPF is. “It will function as a shield for your skin while combating the signs of ageing,” says Chapman. “Use it every day on your face, neck, chest and hands,” advises Thomas.

And, of course, moisturiser is key. “It seals everything in,” says Soveral. “Moisturisers act as barriers, locking in the ingredients that help soften and nourish the skin.”

Paring my skincare regime back to these key elements – cleanser, retinol, SPF and moisturiser – has certainly worked for me.

My skin is more settled, with fewer breakouts and less irritation, to a point where I feel I can start adding in products on occasion to target specific concerns. As Chapman points out, “Skin can change from day to day. There may be some days where you have overindulged and your skin is feeling congested so you need to add an exfoliator to your routine, or other times when you only need your night-time oil after cleansing. It’s important to be in tune with what your body and skin needs.”

It certainly seems that the overall tone of the beauty industry is shifting to be less obsessed with quick fixes and more mindful of long-term care. “Skincare is becoming more about science and less about pampering,” says Thomas. “Clients realise that a shoulder massage and a face mask doesn’t cut it anymore,” Tarmey adds. “They want actual results.”

So if you’ve been using even the most hyped products to no avail, consider going to see a highly experienced facialist – not so much for the treatment, pleasurable though that can be, but for the opportunity to have an expert examine your skin and tell you what it needs, so that you can choose products accordingly. There’s no point asking your flawless friend what she uses because the bottom line is that it may do absolutely nothing for you. “Take a positive approach to looking after your skin rather than simply an ‘anti’ approach – address your skin’s needs before problems appear,” advises Chapman.

The road to better skin starts here.

OUR EXPERT PANEL Alexandra Soveral

97d Elgin Avenue, W9

Known for: Facials with deep tissue massage and lymphatic drainage – vigorous but highly effective.

Hero product: “Our Angel Balm (£55), which is full of healthy, restorative fatty acids.”

Anti-ageing Lifting Face Treatment, £275 for 90 minutes alexandrasoveral.co.uk

Debbie Thomas

The Courtyard, 250 Kings Road, SW3

Known for: ‘DNA treatments’, which are wholly bespoke and feature targeted laser therapy.

Hero product: “Oxygenetix Foundation (£45) – it’s an awardwinning breathable foundation full of natural ingredients.”

DNA Essential Skin Grade 1 treatment, £160 for 30 minutes dthomas.com

Sarah Chapman 259 Pavilion Road, SW1X

Known for: Her lifting ‘gymnastics’ facial massage that will make you look firmer and revitalised.

Hero product: “My Overnight Facial (£49). It is the most amazing all-in-one product – it’s an elixir, it’s almost medicinal for all skin types.”

Bespoke luxury facial £145 for 90 minutes sarahchapman.net

Teresa Tarmey 57 Holland Road, W14

Known for: The ‘sleep box’ – LED phototherapy – that she incorporates into her facials for an instant holiday glow.

Hero product: “Heliocare 360 SPF is my favourite (£23.99).”

TT facial, £120 for 60 minutes teresatarmey.com

Nichola Joss

Good Vibes Fitness 14-16 Betterton Street, WC2H

Known for: Her ‘inner facial’ – she massages your face from inside your mouth.

Hero product: “Facial oil for topical treatment – my favourite is Omorovicza miracle oil (£75) – and a probiotic for creating youthful, healthy skin cells.”

Bespoke Sculpting Inner Facial, £250 for 60 minutes nicholajoss.com

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I N

Hands G O O D

Whether you need a quick energy boost, a beauty touch-up or have a long-standing health concern to address, London has a therapist for you. We’ve rounded up the experts you should have on speed dial

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THE ACUPUNCTURIST

JOHN TSAGARIS

The lowdown: John Tsagaris is the go-to man in the capital for acupuncture, with a hush-hush client list rumoured to include Kate Moss and Madonna – he is flown around the world on a regular basis because of his immediate and longlasting results. A renowned practitioner of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) with a deep knowledge of bioscience, Tsagaris uses fine needles placed in certain parts of the body to release blocked qi (energy) and stimulate function, evoking the body’s natural healing response.

Tsagaris and his team also specialise in facial and ear

acupuncture and fertility treatments – which have a sky-high success rate.

Our verdict: After asking a host of questions about your lifestyle and wellbeing, Tsagaris examines your tongue and takes your pulse – both are key indicators of health in TCM – and then formulates a plan to treat any issues, from digestive complaints to musculoskeletal disorders and hormone imbalances. His careful and gentle placement of the needles means you hardly feel them, but the effects are extraordinary.

After just one session with him, we felt rejuvenated.

Details: From £150 24 Godfrey Street, SW1 and home visits available on request johntsagaris.co.uk

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WELLNESS

THE MEDI PEDI

THE CELEBRITY WAXER

THE VITAMIN DRIP

ELIXIR CLINIC

KATIE LIGHT

The lowdown: The holy grail of foot care is Margaret Dabbs, who is lauded for inventing the ‘medical pedicure’. Unlike a regular pedicure, the medipedi is a complete overhaul of the feet where calluses are removed, rough patches smoothed and ailments such as ingrowing toenails and bunions are fixed by expert podiatrists. The treatment is performed on dry feet to ensure long-lasting results and Dabbs’ award-winning Fabulous Feet products, which contain emu oil for hydration, are used throughout. The clinic also offers foot acupuncture, reflexology and laser therapy for fungal conditions.

Our verdict: Treatments use high-tech kit including electrical drills with various heads to buff away dead skin, and surgical blades (not as scary as it sounds) to remove the hard skin around the heels. The process is repeated to reveal the softest skin your feet have known. Cuticles are pushed back, nails are clipped and buffed to a high shine and the polish of your choice is applied at the end. Feet are left looking revitalised and ready to show off in sandals.

Details: From £85 Margaret Dabbs Sole Spa at Liberty, Great Marlborough Street, W1 margaretdabbs.co.uk

The lowdown: Waxing guru Roberts famously brought the ‘Brazilian’ to the UK in the 1990s and after 40 years in the industry now works on a part-time basis at Gielly Green hair salon in Marylebone. Beloved of beauty editors for good reason, Roberts is fast and oh-so-effective. She uses hot natural beeswax, which removes hair much more cleanly than strip wax and is a lot less painful. With a long list of A-list clients you know you are in safe hands – Roberts is the height of discretion but we have it on good authority that fans include Victoria Beckham, Gwyneth Paltrow and Naomi Campbell.

Our verdict: Friendly and professional, Roberts immediately puts you at ease. Her technique, honed over many years of experience, ensures that the usually arduous ordeal becomes (almost) pain-free and her chatty conversation means time flies. You’ll leave with the most thorough wax and baby soft skin.A monthly appointment with Roberts is a maintenance must.

Details: From £34 Gielly Green, 42-44 George Street, W1 giellygreen.co.uk

The lowdown: Often derided for their association with party-hard celebrities, vitamin drips are said to provide an instant pep – a literal shot of goodness, straight into the bloodstream. The intravenous method means the vitamins bypass the digestive system, allowing for 100 per cent absorption compared to the typical 15 per cent you get with daily supplements.

Our verdict: Elixir Clinic offers the VIP Vitadrip, a custom cocktail of vitamins and minerals including Vitamin C, B12, magnesium and zinc, known for their antioxidant and anti-ageing benefits. Even those who are squeamish around needles needn’t be concerned – after a medical history consultation with a nurse and a blood pressure check you are smoothly and painlessly hooked up to a bag of orangecoloured liquid for 45 minutes.

You’ll most likely feel quite spaced out as the drip begins to work its magic, a mood enhanced by the add-on beauty treatments you can enjoy during the infusion, from facials to nails and reflexology.

A few days later and the boost of energy was still noticeable.

Details: From £407 75 Wimpole Street, W1 and Harrods, SW1X theelixirclinic.com

The lowdown: Stressed out, sleep deprived and anxious?

Then bookmark Katie Light – an intuitive body and mind therapist who has developed a unique treatment called The Light Technique that promises to rebalance and restore your equilibrium. Depending on the individual issues, a combination of reiki energy healing and massage is teamed with visualisation and NeuroLinguistic Programming to bring about transformational results. Light helps people with a wide range of problems, from extreme fatigue to hormonal imbalance, and also offers the most heavenly facials that focus on removing tension and toxins.

Our verdict: Katie Light has a soothing, nurturing nature and healing hands, making short work of your aches and pains – you will literally melt into the massage table as body and mind unwind their kinks. Expect to relax so much you may fall asleep, which is the optimum state for her chakra work to shift most energy blockages.

We slept much deeper and longer for several weeks afterwards.

Details: From £90 50 Beauchamp Place, SW3 and home visits available upon request thelighttechnique.com

MARGARET DABBS

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OTYLIA ROBERTS

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THE REIKI HEALER

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Interview

Green

GODDESS KYLE GALVIN

Nutritional therapist Xochi Balfour, 32, is the woman behind The Naturalista, a blog offering advice on holistic nutrition and conscious living. She spoke to The Glossary about living a mindful life in London Words MOLLIE MCGUIGAN

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WELLNESS

How did The Naturalista start?

My husband Ben and I used to run a street food business called Rainbo. In 2013 I hit burnout and found myself battling extreme fatigue. We were working long hours, doing events and festivals back-to-back, and living off refined foods and caffeine. I knew our diet was the first thing I had to change so I enrolled in a nutrition course and it was a light-bulb moment. I signed up for a diploma and started blogging about the journey. We overhauled our diets and saw immediate effects on our wellbeing. Natural skincare soon followed, and then meditation and spiritual practice became the third pillar of the journey back to wellness. My book covers the three pillars of vitality: naturopathic nutrition, natural beauty and skincare, and mindful living.

How would you summarise your philosophy?

I believe in living a balanced life, cultivating vitality and harmony through nutrition, natural living and spiritual self-practise.

Having a baby [Balfour has a five-month-old son, Sasha] has been such a crash course in true presence and responsibility and I have never had a better experience of having to listen to my body. The demands on my time are huge and it is harder to cook lots of food from scratch and create new recipes, but I am very lucky to have an amazing husband who is creative in the kitchen and supportive of us both. It can be isolating for modern women to raise their babies alone; we were built to do it in communities and I think lots of support is absolutely vital.

How do you live a holistic life in a busy city like London?

Connecting to nature as often as possible is what keeps me grounded and balanced.

It could be a park, a garden or heading out to the countryside – connecting to the healing green is so important.

I also work with myself and my clients to build up a toolkit of resources to keep us grounded in the everyday: aromatherapy, crystals, card decks and journalling are all wonderful practices that anyone can adopt and weave into their day-to-day life.

Is there a particular place in London you like to visit to take time out in?

I have always lost myself in the best way possible on Hampstead Heath.

The wildness of it makes you forget you’re in the city and the water and rolling hills are such wonderful medicine after a busy day.

And where do you go to escape city life?

Epping Forest, located between London and Essex. We also visit Costa Rica every year to spend time at an eco village called PachaMama. They host therapeutic groups, silent meditation and indigenous ceremonies, and it was there that I earned my name Xochi [formally Candida], which means ‘flower’ in the Nahuatl language of the region. We try to take a flavour of PachaMama to our

What is your favourite recipe?

I love my raw carrot and cinnamon bircher muesli – start with oats and nut milk, grated apple and carrot. Then add turmeric for its antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties, cinnamon which helps balance blood sugar, and goji berries which contain vitamin C.

Sacred Space retreats. My husband and I started the retreats in 2015 to move beyond nutrition and bring a spirit of self-enquiry, community and healing into a day or weekend.

What are the essential ingredients of a healthy diet?

I always encourage two thirds of every plate to be plant-based. Fibre is essential for helping eliminate toxins – lots of dark green leaves like kale and cabbage, which are also full of calcium, magnesium and other essential nutrients. Good fats – such as raw coconut, hemp and olive oil, avocado, cacao butter and oily cold-water fish – are fundamental.

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How can we combat stress?

You have to create daily space for self-enquiry and allow your system to reset, whether that is yoga, meditation, barefoot walking or whatever brings you to the present moment. Working with an altar is a way of bringing positive memories into your home. Choose a corner and fill it with things that are important to you – a crystal, a written intention that you would like to manifest, or something you are grateful for. It’s a way of staying connected to something greater than yourself and introducing beauty, prayer and devotion into your home.

The Naturalista by Xochi Balfour (Headline, £25) is out now.

Sacred Space retreats take place on 4-6 August 2016 at 42 Acres in Somerset and Shoreditch. thenaturalista.co.uk

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URS LO

E C U O R T

Combining light therapy, sounds and scents, ChromaYoga is the multi-sensory studio that helps boosts mood and resets sleep patterns Words CHARLOTTE ADSETT

YOGA.

It used to be so simple – that was the point. But now we have Doga (yoga with your dog), Voga (as in Madonna-esque dance moves), through to tantrum and primal scream yoga (encouraging us to unleash our inner toddlers), paddleboard yoga and, of course, naked yoga. Fad yoga trends have taken over the capital in the past few years. And now we have ChromaYoga, the UK’s first multi-sensory yoga studio, which combines colour and light therapy, sound frequencies and bespoke natural scents to create a unique and immersive experience. It may sound like a gimmick but with multi-sensory fitness set to be the next big trend in the

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wellness world, here is a concept that is steeped in scientific studies and gives a wide spectrum of benefits.

At ChromaYoga, based in Shoreditch, you don’t pick your class by style, but rather by colour: red, pink, blue, orange or yellow. The all-white, ergonomically designed room is then bathed in the glow of your chosen colour and the yoga corresponds to the health benefits of that hue. A red class, for example, is fast-paced and dynamic, with a focus on strength and flexibility, while pink classes are restorative and rebalancing. Each class has its own bespoke soundscapes and scents that are diffused into the room for the duration of the class to aid breath work, enhance mood and balance energy. All of this reaps huge

benefits both mentally and physically – classes are said to reset the body’s natural circadian rhythm for better sleep, plus increase metabolism and alertness, accelerate weight loss, correct any hormonal imbalances and promote a calmer sense of wellbeing.

Founder Nina Ryner launched the studio earlier this year with her friend, yoga teacher Clara Baker, after being disillusioned with the yoga scene in London. “The studios I was going to were either too new age, too cheesy and commercial or felt stuck in the 1990s,” she says. “I saw a huge gap in the market for something new. I started to think about what the perfect environment would be and that’s when I came up with the idea.”

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PHOTOGRAPHY STEPHANIE SIAN SMITH

WELLNESS

Ryner, who previously ran a fashion label, took inspiration from the interactive art installations of James Turrell, Carlos CruzDiez, Ann Veronica Janssens, Liz West, Dan Flavin and Olafur Eliasson. She says she first got the idea after seeing a number of light exhibitions and observing how people were affected when they walked into differently coloured rooms. “Originally I came to the idea from a colour therapy perspective,” she explains. “I started researching the subject and found it fascinating. It’s part of all of our lives and we’re so oblivious to it. Surely someone had thought about combining yoga and light before? But they hadn’t.”

Working closely with Baker, plus scent designer Asakala and sound designer Tim Goalen, ChromaYoga was born. “We use light, sound and scent to enhance the yoga experience,” Ryner explains. “I’ve done a lot of research into light therapy and how light can be healing. There is lots of scientific research into the ways light can affect our lives.

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For example, red light can be really beneficial physically and yellow light instantly improves mood. Blue suppresses melatonin in the brain and makes us more awake: the sky is blue, it’s energetic. The problem is that now we’re always on our laptops and phones, we’re exposed to cold light throughout the day and evening with no time off to create melatonin, which is causing sleep disorders. To combat this you can use red, yellow and orange light to help rebalance you.” At ChromaYoga, being exposed to amber light during the day or in an early evening class means your body can start producing melatonin for a few hours before bed, according to Ryner. “Our aim is reset the stressed out and sleep deprived,” she says.

“We each have to find ways to counteract the issues we face in our busy lives in London – a city that for most of the year doesn’t have much light.”

Sound therapy is also a big part of each ChromaYoga class. Taking inspiration from binaural and isochronic tones, each colour is accompanied by a specifically composed soundtrack that emulates the frequencies our brains emit in different states of consciousness. The sounds are said to promote a calmer, more focused and relaxed state of mind, which means concentration is made much easier for people who often struggle with distraction and ‘monkey mind’ in yoga classes.

The space, with its wavy ceiling, certainly feels more like an art installation than a yoga studio. Headed up by Baker, the team is very attentive and keen to correct any wrong alignment, resulting in a very high standard of teaching. The combination of bathing in all-enveloping colour, the scent and the sound frequencies makes for an immersive experience.

The end result is an energising natural high or a peaceful, trance-like state, depending on the class you choose. Ryner is clearly on to something. To get more out of yoga, you need to see the light.

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LIGHT UP YOUR L I F E RED

Red light increases energy, metabolism and circulation on a cellular level. Classes provide a powerful workout with a focus on core work, building strength and flexibility.

BLUE

Blue light is the mighty controller of our sleep cycles and can help with boosting productivity and reducing tiredness. A dynamic, flowing class sees breath linked with movement and used to wake up the body and increase energy.

ORANGE

Orange light is similar to red so can also help with disjointed sleep. These workshop-style classes focus on correct alignment and mastering the foundations of yoga poses and balances.

YELLOW

The deep, rich tone stimulates an emotional response by emulating the effect of sunset and sunrise, so is the strongest colour psychologically. Yellow light is used in conjunction with twists and opening postures to aid digestion and alleviate mood swings.

PINK

Pink is a colour associated with love, affection and nurturing.

Classes are designed to rejuvenate and balance both body and mind. Deep stretches, breath work and acupressure release tension and toxins.

CHROMATIC

The light in chromatic classes moves through all of the spectral colours and focuses on circular movement – transitions from the front to the back of the mat. Expect to finish on a burst of uplifting blue light in the morning and melatonin-inducing red light in the evening.

45 Charlotte Road, EC2A chromayoga.co.uk

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CREATEVICTORIA.COM #novafood @createvictoria

Discover London’s most exciting new culinary destination, with 17 innovative restaurants and outdoor seating in a stunning public realm.

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FOOD & The

DRINK

Tasting notes

Summer champagnes In conversation: Chef Ben Murphy Al fresco terraces

Get the Scoop Elevate ice cream to dinner party-worthy status with the Tank ice cream bowl from Tom Dixon Studio, made from hand-blown glass and finished with Dixon's signature copper detailing. tomdixon.net

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Tasting Notes This season brings new openings, gardens galore and the seaside in the city Compiled by LAURA ARCHER

THE SECOND COMING Some things are worth waiting for. After 17 years in the cellars, Dom Pérignon P2 2000 is here, the second iteration of the astonishing 2000 vintage. Dom Pérignon’s P2 or Plénitude Deuxième range is a two-stage maturation process for the finest vintages. The result is a surprisingly vibrant wine on first taste, giving way to complex notes of hay and ripe fruits. £290, harrods.com

A SIGHT TO SEA

Down By the River

Despite changing tastes and trends, The River Cafe has remained a stalwart of the London dining scene, and this year celebrates 30 years in the business. A cookbook will be released on 5 October to mark the occasion, featuring more than 120 recipes along with menu artwork, anecdotes and tips from co-founder Ruth Rogers River Cafe 30 (Ebury Press), rivercafe.com

Sparkling wine, deckchairs, beach huts, gin and fish and chips – it’s the great British seaside, only it’s 40 floors up in the heart of the city. This summer Searcys launches their ‘Seaside in the Sky’ at the Gherkin, offering a taste of the sea paired with Nyetimber English sparkling wine and Plymouth gin cocktails, complete with panoramic views of the London skyline. Best of all?

It doesn’t matter a jot if it rains.

Until 1 September; searcysatthegherkin.co.uk

Wellness

MIND YOUR HEAD Would you like a side of mindfulness with your matcha tea?

Now you can. Award-winning Devon-based health and wellness retreat Yeotown is opening its London outpost in September on Marylebone’s Chiltern Street. Yeotown Kitchen features a takeaway and sit-down menu of seasonal dishes but the real draw is their ‘meditation station’ – two relaxation pods in which you can sip your mood-enhancing juice while listening to five-minute guided meditations. yeotown.com

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CHANGING TABLES

CORE STRENGTH Three-Michelin-starred chef Clare Smyth is opening her first solo venture this August after leaving Restaurant Gordon Ramsay where she was chef patron. Core, in Notting Hill, will offer modern fine dining with a focus on Britishness and nature in a nod to Smyth’s roots as a farmer’s daughter. There will be one changing tasting menu, from which guests can order three, five or the full 10-12 courses, while the wine list will feature some 400 options. corebyclaresmyth.com

Following the recent departure of Simon Rogan from Fera at Claridges and the closure of Pierre Koffmann at The Berkeley, plates are clearly spinning at Maybourne Group, which operates both hotels. There’s good news from the third property in the portfolio, however, as The Connaught welcomes Michelin-starred chef JeanGeorges Vongerichten this summer.

Jean-Georges at The Connaught will be a relaxed, all-day restaurant overlooking Mount Street offering his signature farm-to-table style of cooking. the-connaught.co.uk

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FOOD & DRINK

Top 5

Summer Cocktails Our favourite creations, and where to drink them

ARTESIAN

The Langham, 1c Portland Place, W1B Two Memories: Star of Bombay, sloes, yuzu, champagne and sakura. artesianbar.co.uk

BEAUFORT BAR

The Savoy, 99 Strand, WC2R Gypsy Moth: Hendricks gin, coconut, mastic, cherry, lemon, ginger, blue sky. fairmont.com

DISREPUTE

4 Kingly Court, W1B English Rose: Belvedere vodka, Mateus rosé reduction, lemon, soda and rose petals. disrepute.co.uk

Garden of Delights Bucolic Richmond restaurant Petersham Nurseries decamps to the city later this summer, with a new outpost in the heart of Covent Garden. Opening, fittingly enough, in Floral Court, the 16,000sq ft space will include two restaurants, a home and garden store, a delicatessen, wine cellar and florist. La Goccia will offer a Venetianinfluenced menu of chicchetti – small plates – and natureinspired cocktails, while The Petersham is a more formal dining experience, revolving around the Slow Food philosophy, under executive chef Simon Whitley. petershamnurseries.com

PUNCH ROOM

10 Berners Street, W1T Punch à la Diable: tea, Bacardi 8 rum, orange and lemon sherbet, wild forest pepper, redcurrant. editionhotels.com

SUPER LYAN

155 Hoxton Street, N1 Baha Colada: Yaguara Cachaca, Fauxco Lopez, triple citrus, pineapple. superlyan.com

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MADISON

THE GREAT OUTDOORS When the sun shines, there’s no finer city than London. Find a shady terrace or a rooftop suntrap and enjoy a spot of al fresco living this summer

RADIO ROOFTOP

Compiled by LAURA ARCHER

THE ACE

SUSHISAMBA

100 Shoreditch High Street, E1 Shoreditch’s coveted rooftop party space, host to many an exclusive event, opens to the public for the first time on selected dates this summer. Expect DJs and dancing – booking essential. acehotel.com

CAFFÈ TORINO AT ANGLER THE BOUNDARY

South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, EC2M The outside terrace at Michelinstarred Angler, atop South Place Hotel, has been transformed into a Martini bar straight out of early 1900s Italy. Order a negroni and some fritto misto and live la dolce vita (until 2 September). anglerrestaurant.com

COQ D’ARGENT

1 Poultry, EC2R A perennial City haunt, the rooftop terrace is constantly being reinvented, from an alpine lodge in winter to Wimbledon and Pimms come summer. This year sees Fab Buddha Yoga pop up on the roof in the morning, with yoga sessions followed by breakfast, while the evening ushers in DJs, saxophonists and champagne cocktails. coqdargent.co.uk

THE ACE

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THE ROOFTOP ST JAMES

The Trafalgar St James, 2 Spring Gardens, Trafalgar Square SW1A Reopening late summer following a complete refurbishment, The Trafalgar St James features a year-round rooftop terrace with a Mediterranean-style lounge and a private glasshouse for up to 14 people. thetrafalgar.com

THE IVY

69 Old Broad Street, EC2M; 195-197 King’s Road, SW3; and One Tower Bridge, SE1 The Ivy is springing up all over the city, with three new outposts bringing the iconic restaurant’s famed West End glamour to Chelsea and the City. Its Square Mile location is one of the City’s few garden squares, right next to the beautiful St Botolph church, which its outdoor terrace – complete with water fountain and retractable roof – overlooks. The Ivy Chelsea Garden, meanwhile, is a beautiful oasis on the King’s Road, with courtyard tables arranged beneath a pergola. Even the indoor restaurant feels like the chicest conservatory you’ve ever dined in, with trees, abundant floral displays and terracotta pot plants lining the huge windows.

Just south of the river, The Ivy opens in the One Tower Bridge prime residential development on 26 July. Riverside terraces are rare in London and they don’t come much finer than this one, which has spectacular views of the Tower of London and Tower Bridge. Order one of The Ivy’s signature strawberry ice cream sundaes and watch the boats go by. theivycitygarden.com; theivychelseagarden.com; theivytowerbridge.com

SOMERSET HOUSE

Strand, WC2R Una birra, per favore – Somerset House has partnered with Peroni Ambra on its summer terrace,

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FOOD

THE RITZ THE SUMMERHOUSE

ORRERY

SUSHISAMBA

110 Bishopsgate, EC2N Brazil meets Japan by way of Peru at this City favourite, which is due to open a second branch in Covent Garden later this year. For now, enjoy the highest outdoor dining terrace in Europe, perched like an eagle above bustling Bishopsgate. sushisamba.com

KENSINGTON ROOF GARDENS

99 Kensington High Street, W8 Now part of Richard Branson’s Virgin empire, the infamous Roof Gardens are possibly the only place you’ll find flamingos in London outside of a zoo, roaming free above High Street Kensington. Book an outdoor terrace table at the seventh-floor Babylon restaurant for city views with a countryside vibe. virginlimitededition.com

HAM YARD HOTEL

inspired by the groves of the Chinotto, a rare Italian citrus fruit that flavours Peroni’s newest drink.

Sharing platters and pizzas add an extra Italian flair to aperitivo hour. somersethouse.co.uk

MADISON

One New Change, St Paul’s, EC4M For panoramic views of St Paul’s Cathedral, outdoor summer film screenings plus a tapas menu and impressive drinks list, Madison ticks every box. It’s perfect for everything from romantic rooftop liaisons to after-work drinks – who wouldn’t want to watch the sun come down over the city skyline with cocktails? madisonlondon.net

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One Ham Yard, W1D The fourth floor is dedicated to a leafy terrace complete with beehives amidst the Soho rooftops.

Normally only open to residents, this season it’s open to non-guests for its Summer Sessions series – Sundowners (31 July-8 August), Garden to Glass (10-15 August) featuring cocktails inspired by the kitchen garden, and Rosé on the Roof (17-30 August). firmdalehotels.com

RADIO ROOFTOP

336-337 Strand, WC2R Tapas, cocktails and the most astonishing view in all of London – Radio Rooftop on the 10th floor of ME London rightly deserves its place as one of the capital’s top summer hot spots. radiorooftop.com

THE RITZ

150 Piccadilly, W1J This famed institution needs no introductions but did you know there’s a chi-chi terrace and garden

COQ D'ARGENT

bar overlooking Green Park?

Enjoy Michelin-starred cooking beneath the parasols, followed by a glass or two (or three, no one’s counting) on the champagne terrace. theritzlondon.com

THE IVY CITY

ORRERY

55 Marylebone High Street, W1 This converted 19th-century stable block is home to Orrery, where the French à la carte menu is expertly executed and the wine list goes on for miles. But the real gem is on the roof, where a little taste of Provence awaits in the form of a lavender-scented terrace lined with olive trees. orrery-restaurant.co.uk

BOUNDARY

2-4 Boundary Street, E2 With the warmth, vines, and scent of citrus and wild herbs you could almost be in the Mediterranean, thanks to Boundary’s heated rooftop Orangery. Dine on seafood and meat from the Robata grill and enjoy a 360° view of east London at the fashion set’s favourite. There's a hotel, too, so you can make a night of it. boundary.london

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THE SUMMERHOUSE

Opposite 60 Blomfield Road, W9 This former pop-up of the Waterway restaurant in Maida Vale is now a year-round fixture, serving up seafood on the banks of the Grand Union Canal. thesummerhouse.co

BLAKES

33 Roland Gardens, SW7 With its blue, yellow and pink colour scheme, golden ‘birdcage’ conservatory and a zebra emerging from a wall, Matthew Williamson’s stamp is all over the cute courtyard garden at Blakes hotel, which he has redesigned for the summer 2017 season. The Mediterranean menu perfectly complements the decor and there’s an innovative cocktail list. blakeshotels.com

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S E A S OTN

Add sparkle to your summer with our pick of champagnes crafted with warm weather in mind. Sun sadly not included Words LAURA ARCHER

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HE PERCUSSIVE POPPING OF CHAMPAGNE CORKS IS THE ULTIMATE SOUND OF SUMMER. It’s the backdrop to days at the races, courtside at Wimbledon and long lunches on a shady terrace.

It’s the spirit of convivial gatherings with friends and loved ones that stretch late into the evening as the shadows lengthen, candles are lit, jumpers fetched and still the wine and conversation flow. And of course, in London, you never quite know how long the weather will hold, so every sunny day feels like an unexpected gift, a reason to celebrate.

While there’s nothing new about a spot of summer fizz, champagne houses are increasingly turning their hand – and nose – to crafting wines that are specifically designed for warmer weather.

We first saw this back in 2011 when Moët et Chandon launched its Ice Imperial – created, they said, with sultry party hot spots like St Tropez and Miami in mind.

Controversially, it’s served in a large wine glass complete with ice cubes. Yes, ice. In champagne. Eyebrows were duly raised, with some circles shocked that this most prestigious of wines was being sullied in such a way. Six years later, however, and Moët Ice Imperial is going from strength to strength – a rosé was launched last year, there’s a new gift pack for summer 2017, and it features on many a rooftop wine list in London, including Bluebird in Chelsea, Skygarden in the City and Madison on the top of One New Change in St Paul’s.

“Moët Ice has proven so popular because it answers a genuine consumer need,” says Lucy Warren, champagne ambassador for Moët et Chandon. “During the summer

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FOOD & DRINK

months people were drinking regular champagne on ice anyway – known as a ‘piscine’. Drinking brut (dry) champagne like this dilutes the wine and breaks its balance, so we decided to create a champagne for the summer that would be made specifically to drink on ice.”

The result is a champagne created from a higher proportion of red grapes than is usual – 40-50 per cent pinot noir and 30-40 per cent pinot meunier – so that when ice is added, it retains the fruitiness and depth of the original brut. Crucially, however, it is the dosage (added sugar) that makes this champagne so stable – a stonking 45g/l versus the usual 9g/l in brut, which means those all-important bubbles retain their effervescence and the richness of flavour isn’t diminished when the ice is added.

Veuve Cliquot duly followed suit with their Rich range launched in 2015, but whether other houses follow Moët’s lead remains to be seen. Most, however, are in agreement that rosé is the summer champagne of choice. Madame Bollinger insisted that rosé was an inferior version of wine, and only to be drunk with dessert, but thankfully today that does not hold true. “At Bollinger and our sister house Ayala we have a more distinctly savoury, structured style of rosé champagne,” explains Jérôme Philipon, president of Bollinger. Made predominantly from pinot noir, the result is a muscular, berry-driven champagne that pairs particularly well with summer

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foods – lobster salads, smoked salmon and even ceviches and tartares. “Hunt out food with a trace of sweetness in the meat, fish or ingredients that will lift and complement the flavours of this wine,” Philipon suggests.

Also focusing on pinot noir and pinot meunier, albeit in a white style of champagne, is Louis Roederer’s Brut Nature 2009, a new release that is only the second ever version of this cuvée and quite unlike the rest of Roederer’s range. Created with Philippe Starck, it’s made in a very minimalist way, from grapes all harvested on a single day and with no dosage at all.

“We stripped back all of our traditional meticulous blending processes to create a wine that was the purest expression of one plot of land and of one year,” explains Marinel Fitzsimons, brand manager for Louis Roederer. “The year 2009 was fantastically sunny, which is crucially important when making a wine with no added sugar, as it requires the grapes to reach the highest levels of sweetness that they can without losing acidity.” The result is a lower-pressure champagne than usual – gently sparkling rather than actively fizzing – with notes of yellow fruits, flowers and citrus culminating in a lingering, oaky finish. It pairs brilliantly with food, standing up particularly well to Parma ham and creamy mozzarella. It is, you could say, sunshine in a bottle.

At the other end of the champagne rainbow are wines that major on chardonnay, the grape that brings champagne its distinctive freshness and

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vivacity. Look no further than PerrierJouët, which this year has released its first new cuvée in two decades – a blanc de blancs, made entirely from chardonnay.

Citrus and elderberry notes dominate, with a mineral finish that makes this a particularly good aperitif. But no matter how much the mercury is rising, be careful not to chill it down too much. “We usually say that the ideal temperature for tasting this champagne is between eight and 10 degrees,” advises Hervé Deschamps, cellar master for Perrier-Jouët since 1993.

So whether you’re on the coast in Cannes or hosting in Hampstead this summer, channel your inner Mark Twain: “Too much of anything is bad but too much champagne is just right.”

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Stars Interview

IN H IS

E YES It’s a long way from Brent Cross to south Kensington, but for Ben Murphy the journey is far from over as he aims to bring Michelin glory back to Launceston Place Words LAURA ARCHER

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W

HEN YOUR D I N I N G C O M PA N I O N , A COMMITTED CARNIVORE, sits back with a satisfied smile at the end of an eight-course tasting menu and declares a dish of spelt, served risotto-style with herbs and a quail’s egg, to be his favourite, and a plate of carrots a close second, you know you’re somewhere special.

Launceston Place, in south Kensington, is certainly that. Once famed as Princess Diana’s favourite place to eat, recent years have seen it hit a bit of a rough patch, with changes in the kitchen, the loss of a Michelin star and a tumble from four to two AA rosettes. Determined to return it to form, owners D&D London – whose restaurant empire includes Bluebird, Quaglino’s and Coq d’Argent – have pulled out all the stops, with an elegant new makeover and a hotly tipped young gun freshly installed at the helm.

I’d heard big things about Ben Murphy, Launceston Place’s 26-year-old chef, whose CV bristles with awards and pedigree training. This is the man whose food the late AA Gill deemed “impeccably made” and “exceptional” in a rare five-star review.

So I’m caught off guard when he tells me, “I was brought up on chicken dinosaurs and smiley potato faces. To be honest, I’d happily still eat that now.” It’s not what

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you’d expect from the brains behind such exquisitely crafted dishes as octopus served with chorizo in a crystal-clear consommé with a katsu-encrusted chicken wing, or Presa Iberica pork with velvety smoked aubergine and delicate squares of Ponzu gel. But perhaps his childhood favourites do explain the light-hearted touch he brings to fine dining – the ‘jammie dodger’ canapé that uses red pepper purée as the jam; the ‘egg and soldiers’ starter with a whipped egg mousse sprinkled with truffle atop crunchy cubes of celeriac, served in an egg shell with brioche fingers; the ‘Solero’ dessert of coconut ice cream encased in a cherry gel, complete with ice-lolly stick like its namesake. And let’s not forget the emojis that accompany the minimalist descriptions on the menu.

“The reaction to the emojis has definitely been mixed,” Murphy admits. “Some people say the menu doesn’t do the food justice. But I like there to be an element of surprise when the food comes. And we’re having fun. It’s fine dining but it’s 2017 – we don’t need to be serious.”

While this approach may have bemused some of the more traditionally minded clientele for whom Launceston Place is their local neighbourhood restaurant, it’s succeeded in drawing new customers to this quiet little enclave tucked away just behind Gloucester Road. Set in a triangle of well-heeled residential streets, lined

with Aston Martins, Bentleys and Ferraris, Launceston Place will never benefit from the custom of casual passers-by. So it needs to work as a destination restaurant – and Murphy intends to do just that.

“I want to stabilise the restaurant, it needs consistency and happy customers,” he says, reflecting on the recent changes as he surveys his new kingdom. The formerly dark walls have been painted in varying shades of French grey, enlivened with splashes of colour from carefully chosen artworks. The quirky shape of the restaurant means that light bounces around it, so it feels both spacious and intimate at the same time. “We’re in a good place now,” he adds. “Everything we’re doing here is getting better and better.”

And what of that lost Michelin star?

There must be some considerable pressure to win it back. “I’m not cooking for Michelin, I’m cooking to keep customers happy,” Murphy insists. “But in time, I don’t see why not.”

While he may not yet have a star of his own, he’s worked under plenty of others in a career that has taken him from Brent Cross, where he grew up, to France, Spain and nearly New York. Murphy was originally destined for a life in football but a collarbone injury during trials for Queens Park Rangers put an end to that. “The only subject I enjoyed and cared about at school was food technology,” he recalls. “So I

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FOOD & DRINK BEEF, PEAR, STILTON, CUMIN

CARROT, LOVAGE, YOGURT, CARAWAY

decided to see how far I could go with that.

I went to Westminster Catering College for three years and loved it – college taught me how much you could get out of food.”

So far, so unremarkable, but an advert at college for staff for a new restaurant changed everything. The restaurant was Koffmann’s at The Berkeley; his new boss the legendary three-star chef Pierre Koffmann, who trained the likes of Gordon Ramsay, Marco Pierre White and Tom Kitchin. Murphy joined as a commis chef a week after opening.

“I was just one body out of 25 guys peeling carrots,” he says, laughing. “I didn’t even see Pierre in service for a long time.” But as well as working hard, he worked smart, with a strategic move to the pastry section where there were fewer chefs and more opportunity.

“I was able to overlook what everyone else was doing, take it all in and make notes,” he says. “I did a year on pastry and then moved back to the main team.

Within three months I was on the chef ’s pass working alongside Pierre.”

Koffmann and Murphy are still close: “He’s a real mentor to me, he’s more like family. Pierre and his wife Claire are my parents in food. We speak regularly and see each other frequently.”

It was with Koffmann’s help that Murphy – now a junior sous chef – left The Berkeley to work at the renowned Les Pres d’Eugenie in the south of France, under three-Michelin-starred Michel Guérard. “It was crazy,” Murphy says of the steep learning curve he faced. “The first six months were tough but I got promoted before some of the guys who had been working there for two years.

They showed me something once and I

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PRESA IBERICA, AUBERGINE, PONZU, CRACKLING

could do it – that’s how I work, you don’t need to show me twice.”

Little wonder that he’s risen so rapidly through the culinary ranks, despite not having so much as lifted a saucepan before the age of 19. He rattles through the other restaurants he’s worked at – Epicure at Le Bristol in Paris (three stars), Akelarre in Spain (three stars) and The Greenhouse in London (two stars). In between, in 2012, he won Young Chef of the Year, Young National Chef of the Year and even Young Spanish Chef of the Year – beating the two Spanish finalists. And then last year, as head chef at The Woodford, he won the Evening Standard Restaurant of the Year, The Good Food Guide’s Chef to Watch Award and Food and Travel magazine’s Breakthrough Chef of the Year.

Phew. But it doesn’t stop there. Before joining Launceston Place, Murphy had job offers for Per Se and Eleven Madison Park (both three stars) in New York, and after deciding to remain in London he turned down the role of head chef at The Ledbury (two stars) and Fera at Claridge’s (one star).

Is it then perhaps a little odd that he joined Launceston Place? “I want to do my own food, not someone else’s, and here I have the creative freedom to do that,” he says. “I feel privileged to work

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here. I’ve moved around a lot and I wanted to settle in a good place. I want to learn all of the financial background as well – the business side of a restaurant.

I don’t just want to be the guy in the kitchen. And I want my own restaurant, without a doubt, by the time I’m 30.”

With his drive, Michelin is sure to come calling – all that remains to be seen is not whether he will get a star, but how many.

L

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GLOSSARY GO-TO DESIGNERS I don’t have one favourite fashion designer, I like many – from Hugo Boss to Ralph Lauren to Emporio Armani. As long as it’s comfortable and looks appealing it’s a winner for me.

FAVOURITE SHOP Probably a shoe shop, I’m addicted to footwear. Filling Pieces, Valentino and Sneakersnstuff do great trainers. matchesfashion.com; sneakersnstuff.com FAVOURITE RESTAURANT For a fine dining experience I’d have to say The Ledbury. The food and service are second to none. If it’s a more casual or quick bite, you’ll find me at Pizza East in Shoreditch. theledbury.com; pizzaeast.com FAVOURITE BAR I usually head to Shoreditch for a few drinks but I don’t stay in one place. For a more special occasion the Blue Bar in The Berkeley hotel is perfect. the-berkeley.co.uk CULTURE FIX I like to see a few West End shows a year. The most recent was Motown: The Musical, which was amazing. We’re so lucky to have this much talent in our city. motownthemusical.co.uk

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TRAVEL New openings

The Weekender: Amsterdam

Home-grown gem: Edinburgh That’s amore: Florence’s most romantic hotel

Welcome to the Jungle Ecuadorean eco-retreat Mashpi Lodge combines state-of-the-art luxury with pioneering conservation. This summer sees the launch of a new lab where guests can work alongside biologists as they undertake vital research work in the heart of the cloud forest.

Mashpi Lodge mashpilodge.com

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Travel Notes Stay abreast of the latest hot new openings around the world with our global briefing Compiled by LAURA ARCHER

New Opening

MADE IN CHINA Moving house is stressful enough – imagine physically moving 50 centuries-old houses and 10,000 trees dating back 1,000 years some 700 kilometres. That’s what hotelier Aman has done for its newest property, Amanyangyun, opening this autumn just outside Shanghai. The dwellings from the Ming and Qing dynasties have been relocated to Shanghai from 30 villages in the Jiangxi Province, where the construction of a vital new reservoir threatened their survival. In a Herculean preservation effort taking the best part of the past decade, they have been painstakingly reassembled amid the fragrant camphor trees for Aman’s fourth property in China. The result is a remarkable resort where history lives in every corner.

aman.com

ZEN OUT OF TEN

Nobu might have chosen west London for its restaurants but when it came to opening its first hotel in Europe it went east, and it was a wise decision. Shoreditch’s creative buzz and industrial heritage are a good match for Nobu’s design aesthetic, plus it’s in good company with neighbours including The Hoxton and The Curtain. Cantilevered steel beams and exposed concrete are softened with touches of gold and wood, and there are 143 rooms, seven suites, a spa and, of course, a Nobu restaurant complete with sushi counter and that famous black cod.

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ANIMAL MAGIC Rwanda has long been a magnet for nature lovers in search of one of the world’s most awe-inspiring and endangered creatures – the mountain gorilla.

Accommodation has been pleasant but basic until now, with three new luxury openings over the next 18 months. First this summer is Wilderness Safaris Bisate Lodge in Volcanoes National Park (pictured), a cluster of six thatched villas built in a traditional Rwandan style to blend discreetly into the majestic landscape in which they sit. This October sees One&Only launch Nyungwe House on a tea plantation near Nyungwe National Park, with sister property Gorilla’s Nest in the foothills of the Virunga Volcano range to follow next year. wilderness-safaris.com; oneandonlyresorts.com

Luck of the Irish Adare Manor, set in 800 acres of parkland in Co. Limerick, reopens its doors late this summer after an 18-month restoration project to return it to its 19th-century splendour.

As well as adding 42 bedrooms, a ballroom and a cinema, the neo-Gothic castle will be home to the UK and Ireland’s only La Mer spa – just one of 11 worldwide.

adaremanor.com

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T R AV E L

Active Holidays

Let's Get Physical

Quantum Yoga

TRI LANKA, SRI LANKA Salute the sun from the treetops at this wellness retreat on Lake Koggala, co-founded by the creator of Quantum Yoga, Lara Drummond. trilanka.com

Goran Ivanisevic Tennis School

D MARIS BAY, TURKEY Inspired by Wimbledon? Add finesse to your forehand while working on your tan at D Maris Bay on the Turkish coast, before relaxing in the courtside tennis-themed bar. This year Ivanisevic himself will be coaching guests visiting from 25 July-4 August. dhotel.com

City Fit

THE MARKTGASSE HOTEL, ZURICH See the sights as you get fit with The Marktgasse’s new fitness initiative for guests. Take a yoga class at Lululemon next door, plunge into the lake or join a running group on a loop around Zurich’s prettiest neighbourhoods. marktgassehotel.ch

Float Your Boat

With summer temperatures in Oman spiking upwards of 40 degrees, there’s only one way to keep cool – take to the water.

With that in mind, Six Senses Zighy Bay has launched Dhahab, a 90ft traditional Dhow boat taking six guests on two-night cruises through the Musandam fjords and up the rugged coastline in air-conditioned comfort, complete with private chef, on-board cinema and spa treatments at sunset. sixsenses.com

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The Peninsula Wake-Up

THE PENINSULA PARIS Start your day in the City of Light on the roof of The Peninsula Paris, with a 45-minute session of yoga, stretching and Pilates guided by a personal trainer. The hotel also offers complimentary running workouts, taking in a 9k-circuit around the city’s sights before finishing with a stretching session in the Jardin des Tuileries. peninsula.com

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Edinburgh

With its Gothic spires, hilltop castle and elegant Georgian townhouses, Edinburgh is part fairytale vision and part vibrant modern hub.

From Holyrood Palace to Harvey Nichols, from cobbled streets to cocktail bars, the city wears its centuries well Words LAURA ARCHER

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T R AV E L

FOR YOUR WARDROBE

PAM JENKINS

© ZAC AND ZAC

For wall-to-wall Bond Street names, Multrees Walk is where to come. Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Stella McCartney, Burberry, Mulberry, Victoria Beckham – they’re all here, alongside Edinburgh’s branch of Harvey Nichols. multreeswalk.co.uk From within a discreet Georgian townhouse, Jane Davidson stocks the likes of Bella Freud, Diane von Furstenberg, Preen, Roland Mouret and Dries van Noten, some of which aren’t available anywhere else in Scotland. janedavidson.co.uk

JEFFREY'S INTERIORS

Pam Jenkins is Edinburgh’s footwear queen, with Jimmy Choo, Christian Louboutin, Aquazzura and more. pamjenkins.co.uk

FOR YOUR HOME

Jeffrey’s Interiors has been styling Edinburgh’s most fashionable homes since 1937, with its covetable furnishings and fabrics, and in-house design team. jeffreys-interiors.co.uk THE KITCHIN

TABLE FOR TWO

MARTIN WISHART

THE POMPADOUR BY GALVIN

WITCHERY BY THE CASTLE

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For Michelin-starred cuisine, book ahead for The Kitchin, the acclaimed restaurant of Pierre Koffmann protégé Tom Kitchin, set in a former whisky warehouse, and Restaurant Martin Wishart in Leith, Edinburgh’s historic port, where Scottish ingredients are given an elegant French touch. thekitchin.com; restaurantmartinwishart.co.uk Critics rightly rave about The Pompadour by Galvin at the Waldorf Astoria, with its simply beautiful dining-room overlooking the castle and worldclass food by the Galvin brothers. thepompadourbygalvin.com Witchery by the Castle is an Edinburgh institution, a Gothic warren of rooms (it’s a hotel, too) at the gates of Edinburgh castle that is as much a feast for the eyes as the stomach. thewitchery.com

SUITE DREAMS

Prestonfield House is a black-, goldand raspberry-hued riot of opulence, with silk-draped four-poster beds, peacocks roaming the grounds and one of Edinburgh’s best restaurants, Rhubarb.

Not one for minimalists. prestonfield.com Arranged over two Georgian townhouses, Nira Caledonia is a quiet, tasteful retreat in the New Town. niracaledonia.com

PRESTONFIELD HOUSE

From the kilted doormen to the Michelinstarred restaurant, The Balmoral exudes class. One of Edinburgh’s, if not all of Scotland’s, grandest hotels. roccofortehotels.com The Dunstane Houses relaunches this summer, repositioning itself a luxury boutique hotel with a Soho House-esque vibe that marries its neoclassical splendour with contemporary style. thedunstane.com

PRESTONFIELD HOUSE

NIGHT CAP

Cocktail lovers are spoiled in the Scottish capital. At The Devil’s Advocate, the huge panelled doors of a former Victorian pump house open to reveal a sleek modern bar with a glass mezzanine.

Bramble, meanwhile, is tucked away in an unassuming basement yet has been named one of the top 20 cocktail bars in the world – try the Earl of Grey, a mix of rum, sherry, blackberry liqueur and tea. devilsadvocateedinburgh.co.uk; bramblebar.co.uk

NIRA CALEDONIA

THE DUNSTANTE HOUSES

Yes, Scotland is all about whisky but Edinburgh has its own gin distillery, too, and you can sample its wares at the characterful Heads & Tales, conveniently located on site. There are more than 80 different types of gin on offer, and the cocktail list is superb. headsandtalesbar.com

TIME OUT

There’s much to commend about the 34,000sq ft One Spa at the Sheraton but it’s the rooftop Hydropool that’s the big draw, with its unbeatable views of the city to admire while you let the warm jets work their magic. onespa.com

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ONE SPA

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T R AV E L

A

Amsterdam Words HAZEL LUBBOCK

AMSTERDAM HAS ALL THE CHARM OF A LITTLE VILLAGE, AND ALL THE ENERGY AND EXCITEMENT OF A BIG METROPOLIS. Next to the canals that weave throughout the city, elegant townhouses stand tall and proud, symbols of Amsterdam’s Golden Age of prosperity, out of which the city that exists today emerged. Inside, they’ve been converted into boutique hotels, cool cafes, speakeasy bars and exhibition spaces. True to its roots, Amsterdam’s art scene is evolving constantly: you can lose yourself in Old Masters in major museums and discover emerging artists in independent galleries in boho-chic neighbourhoods.

Michelin-starred restaurants are no longer just about classic cooking in classic hotels, as some of the city’s finest chefs are setting up in former industrial buildings and branching out into the grittier neighbourhoods. Fashion, too, is pushing boundaries, from homegrown designers to the new breed of concept stores. And with a new direct Eurostar route from London launching at the end of this year, it’s time to rediscover Amsterdam.

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HUTSPOT

VINKELES

Interior design agency The Loft pops up a few times a year as a concept store, stocking Berber rugs, brass lighting and wood carvings, with an artist-inresidence – most recently local ceramic designer Ekaterina Semenov, who uses a milk glaze for her natural-style collection. entertheloft.com

Hutspot pushes the boundaries of a concept store, with its display of independent clothing and accessories brands alongside a cafe, photobooth and art display. Look out for live music events and yoga pop-ups. hutspot.com

TABLE FOR TWO

There’s a strong emphasis on Antwerp designers including Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck and Dries Van Noten at Van Ravenstein. As you’d expect, the store has plenty of edgy draping and a black-on-black colour palette. van-ravenstein.nl

DROOG

Cottoncake in De Pijp might be tiny but it’s certainly mighty – it’s even had the Goop seal of approval.

The calming whitewashed space offers a platform for exciting new brands alongside high-end labels such as Daphny Raes and Monocrafft, plus a coffee shop serving excellent brunches. cottoncake.nl

FOR YOUR HOME COTTONCAKE

Notebooks are works of art at Like Stationery, the coolest place in Amsterdam to stock up on pretty writing paper and risograph prints. likestationery.com Find design items for every room of your house from labels including Dirk Vander Kooij and Sander Wassink at Droog. The store also hosts discussions, workshops and exhibitions – they’ve collaborated with Rijksmuseum in the past – and if you like their homewares so much that you don’t want to leave, you can stay the night on the store’s top floor. droog.com

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VINKELES

FOR YOUR WARDROBE

Vinkeles is the Michelin-starred restaurant of Amsterdam hotel icon The Dylan. Contemporary art stands out against the 18thcentury ovens in the dining room, where chef Dennis Kuipers serves French food such as Anjou pigeon as well as his favourite Japanese Wagyu. vinkeles.com A glass-walled kitchen divides the two restaurants of De School.

On one side there’s a cool, pinkwalled cafe and bar where you can relax with a bowl of ramen and drink organic wine. On the other side is an industrial-style restaurant with a fine-dining set menu listing dishes by their components, such as a first course of shiitake, aubergine, miso and wakame. deschoolamsterdam.nl

PULITZER

Scheepskameel is the second restaurant from the duo behind the Michelin-starred Rijsel, which helped turn east Amsterdam into a foodie hot spot. The menu has sharing plates of dishes such as pork belly and octopus, and mackerel with cucumber and mint. You can buy bottles from the all-German wine list to take home as a memento of your meal. scheepskameel.nl

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T R AV E L KIMPTON DE WITT

BAR BOTANIQUE

SUITE DREAMS

PULITZER

Housed in 17th-century buildings

by Centraal Station, Kimpton de Witt is the city’s newest design-led hotel. Rooms are sleek in white and grey with pops of Delft blue and bespoke furniture. Borrow one of the Van Moof bikes to zip around the city. kimptondewitthotel.com The Pulitzer has a pretty canalside location but its enormous art collection is what makes this grand hotel stand out. Book the Art Collector’s suite, which houses exquisite pieces such as the specially commissioned Hals Brunch by Thierry de Cromieres. pulitzeramsterdam.com

CULTURE FIX

Art meets technology in lab-like exhibition space Mediamatic on the waterfront. With its aquaphonics greenhouse, microbrewery and hundreds of one-off events, there’s always something offbeat going on. mediamatic.net In October, for the first time in 350 years, a collection of 63 masterpieces by the Dutch Masters will travel from their permanent home in the Hermitage St Petersburg to the Hermitage Amsterdam for a major ninemonth exhibition. hermitage.nl REMBRANDT, YOUNG WOMAN WITH EARRINGS, 1656 © STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM, ST PETERSBURG MEDIAMATIC

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NIGHT CAP

Bar Botanique is full of towering plants and popping geometric prints. Order a bottle of Gebrouwen door Vrouwen bloesem blond – brewed exclusively by women in the Netherlands. barbotanique.nl

The Hoxton Amsterdam is somewhere to treat as home: order a bottle of wine and settle in for the evening. As well as the lobby bar, there’s a cosy cocktail den upstairs with velvet armchairs and a reading corner. thehoxton.com You’ll have to call ahead for Door74, a reservations-only speakeasy where it’s best to let the mixologist choose something from the ever-changing menu. door-74.com

THE HOXTON

DOOR74

SCENTS AND THE CITY

The award-winning Skins stocks all the top fragrance brands, as well as lesser-known ones such as Le Labo, alongside cosmetics and skincare. There’s an on-site facialist for those in need of a quick refresh and they have a brilliant algorithm to help you find your perfect perfume. skins.nl PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL VD LINDE

VIPS ONLY

Meander along Amsterdam’s canals in the Pulitzer’s elegant salon boat Tourist on a private cruise. She was built in 1909 and carried Winston Churchill down the waterways in the 1940s. pulitzeramsterdam.com

AKASHA

TIME OUT

The Conservatorium hotel’s Akasha spa offers hydrotherapy treatments in the watsu pool and has a private hammam. conservatoriumhotel.com

DE SCHOOL

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH

Shop for independent labels and Dutch design in Jordaan’s Haarlemmerdijk and eke out vintage finds in the Nine Streets.

P.C. Hooftstraat is the Dutch equivalent of Bond Street.

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Wanderlust

TUSCAN DReAM High in the Fiesole hills, a former monastery is now a seat of luxury Words ELIZABETH JOHNSON

“T

o see the sun sink down, drowned on his pink and purple and golden floods, and overwhelm Florence with tides of colour that make all the sharp lines dim and faint and turn the solid city to a city of dreams, is a sight to stir the coldest nature.” So wrote Mark Twain in 1892, one in a long line of distinguished literary figures over the centuries – from Milton to Wordsworth to Charles Dickens – to be enchanted by Florence. The view that so captivated him remains unchanged today, especially when witnessed from the lofty heights of Belmond Villa San Michele, perched on the hillside above the city of lilies.

This former 15-century monastery, named after the church of St Michael the Archangel, has been a hotel since the 1980s (operated by Belmond, formerly Orient-Express, which also owns Hotel Cipriani in Venice, the Copacabana Palace

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in Rio and Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire) and consistently ranks as one of the finest in Florence – despite being 8km from the city centre. Its slight distance is actually part of its great appeal.

You can leave behind the summer crowds that throng the cathedrals, galleries and piazzas and escape up into the wooded Fiesole hills, where the great sweep of the city, dominated by Brunelleschi’s majestic dome and surrounded by rolling countryside dotted with vineyards, is spread out like a carpet before you.

The first sight that greets you upon arriving at Villa San Michele is a magnificent façade designed by none other than Michelangelo. It sets the tone for what is to come, as you step out into terraced gardens full of roses, lavender, orange blossom and lemon trees – all the quintessential scents of a Tuscan summer. Three-hundred-year-old wisteria climbs across the stone walls and a

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T R AV E L

winding path leads up through the gardens to the heated pool – one of the first infinity pools in Italy – set on its own plateau overlooking Florence and the Arno valley.

For all its grand reputation, Villa San Michele has the feel of a private family residence, where every guest is made to feel at home. It is a rabbit warren of rooms, corridors and stairways, full of original features: – cloisters (now covered), wide arches, vaulted ceilings and precious Florentine antiques. The 45 rooms and suites are elegant but not pompous, with a simple cream-and-pastel colour scheme, terracotta-tiled floors, sumptuous fabrics and antique furniture. All junior

suites boast a private terrace and garden with breathtaking views of the city. The Limonaia suite is perhaps the jewel in the crown, situated away from the main building in the monastery’s former orangery in a secluded corner of the gardens. It has its own heated plunge pool and waterfall, and there’s the option to connect it to two further suites to create a private villa.

Children are welcomed with a sweet little kit containing their own bathrobes, slippers and DVDs, there are high chairs in the restaurants, cribs and bottles available on request, and even a dedicated kids’ concierge who can organise trips to an

Gardens bloom with “roses, lavender, orange blossom and lemon trees – all the scents of a Tuscan summer "

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ice-cream factory or a chocolate workshop, treasure hunts in the hotel’s Italianate gardens, family picnics in the woods and barbecues by the pool.

Speaking of food, one of the hotel’s greatest draws is its famous La Loggia restaurant, the arched terrace of which affords that view of which Mark Twain wrote so movingly. The menu, as you’d expect – and hope – is full of Tuscan and Italian classics, expertly executed, from a wild duck ragout to blue lobster salad or beef steak with a Brunello sauce and Zolfini beans. There’s something really quite magical about the atmosphere at night, as the piano plays, candles flicker in the balmy breeze, the Chianti is poured and Florence sparkles from afar.

Many guests turn a stay at Villa San Michele into an opportunity to learn more about the local cuisine from the experts. The hotel’s culinary school has become renowned, with executive chef Attilio Di Fabrizio leading small groups in hands on cooking classes.

If you need to work off all that good food and wine, there are guided hikes in the surrounding woodland, scenic bike rides, a gym, and yoga and Pilates classes. And,

of course, Florence lies on the doorstep, with a courtesy shuttle bus every 20 minutes in high season (the journey takes approximately 20 minutes).

After a day spent gazing in awe at the Renaissance wonders of Florence, guests this summer will experience something rather different upon their return to Villa San Michele. The historic hotel is known for its art collection – while much of the artwork that adorned the original monastery is now housed in various museums in Florence, a number of masterpieces remain, including Nicodemo Ferrucci’s 17thcentury fresco of The Last Supper, sited in the halls once used as the monks’ refectory.

This season, however,

“It’s magical at night as the piano plays, the Chianti is poured and Florence sparkles from afar"

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contemporary art has been put in the spotlight, with seven of Florence’s leading street artists displaying their works around the property. Even the ancient columns at La Loggia have been incorporated into the exhibition, adorned with road signs, and there’s a ‘selfie man’ by another artist, with whom guests can take a photograph. It’s quite a radical departure from the proud history and cultural heritage that Villa San Michele is usually associated with, but it’s proof that even the most traditional of places can keep up with the times.

And ultimately it’s that spirit that keeps guests coming back to this tranquil retreat high above Florence.

Belmond Villa San Michele Open from April to October belmond.com

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T R AV E L

U N D E R

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The Holiday Edit

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1. CAROLINE CONSTAS, Cotton top, £365; selfridges.com. 2. ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS, Leather sandals, £160; ancient-greek-sandals.com. 3. PETER PILOTTO, Cotton dress, £995; mytheresa.com. 4. NANACAY, Woven basket bag, £245; avenue32.com. 5. GLOBE-TROTTER, Trolley case, £1,320; globe-trotter.com. 6. LISA MARIE FERNANDEZ, Maxi skirt, £525; selfridges.com. 7. JOHANNA ORTIZ, Ariel bikini top, £288, and bottoms, £120; modaoperandi.com. 8. KALEOS, Sunglasses, £180; kaleoseyehunters.com. 9. EUGENIA KIM, Straw sun hat ,£395; net-a-porter.com.

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Exuding European grandeur and urban glamour, discover a space that mirrors your sense of style. Visit Dubai this year and live the iconic Versace lifestyle in a cosmopolitan city that echoes the charms of tradition.

Explore our family, business, honeymoon and other stay offers at www.palazzoversace.ae/specialoffers

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HOME & The

Design notes

INTERIORS

At home with Caroline Legrand Interior inspiration: Beverly Hills hotel

Bright and Beautiful A screen decorated with octopuses, cushions emblazoned with tigers and snakes, stag beetles clutching incense sticks – the new Gucci Decor collection is as bold and bonkers as you'd expect. Creative director Alessandro Michele brings his signature flamboyance to a range of homeware designed to be portable so that you can constantly reimagine your space.

Available online and in selected stores from September gucci.com

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Design Notes Heritage paints and statement lighting are top of our summer wish list

A LITTLE BIRD Moooi, the spirited design emporium whose name means ‘beautiful’ in Dutch, presents the Perch lamp, designed by Umat Yuma. It swings gently back and forth, its so , ambient light dimming and intensifying with the motion.

moooi.com

Compiled by NANCY ALSOP

BOOK CLUB

The Devil’s in the Detail

© PATKAU ARCHITECTS

ROEL VAN TOUR

Author, architect and interior designer Ashley Hicks’ first book sold out in a single day. His latest tome, Details, is no doubt set to achieve similar hotcake status, its pages resplendent with those titular specifics of England’s great historic buildings. £45, published by IDEA

Exhibition

COLOUR WAYS Dutch designer Hella Jongerius brings a dash of vibrancy to the Design Museum this summer as her installation, Breathing Colour, asks us to think about the way in which we experience the spectrum of shades around us. The premise? While we take for granted that we see the world in a glorious rainbow of hues, rarely do we appreciate how those colours shape how we perceive what is around us.

Until 24 September; designmuseum.org

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KNOCK ON WOOD

Plywood might seem an unassuming sort of material in the cra sman’s arsenal but thanks to the V&A’s Plywood: Material of the Modern World, this misconception is about to be set to rights. e exhibition looks at plywood’s role in the creation of some of the 20th-century’s groundbreaking designs, from Alvar Aalto’s armchair to Patkau Architects’ Stonehenge-reminisent ice-skating shelters in Winnipeg (pictured). vam.ac.uk

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HOMES

Trend

Accessories

Paint the Town

Table Lamps

Little Greene’s paint works at Collyhurst Wood near Manchester is one of the country’s oldest sites for creating paints, with records dating back to 1773. Its highly discerning chart includes authenticated English Heritage colours, meaning that its paints are not only pretty to look at, they also represent popular hues dating back some 300 years. This year, the eco-friendly company has added seven new shades to its palette, with dramatic deep green pigments stealing the show. littlegreene.com

Shine a light on this season’s hottest designs 01

02

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1. HOLLY'S HOUSE black and bronze angled desk lamp, £175; hollys-house.com 2. FUTURE AND FOUND Pin table lamp in white marble, £109; futureandfound.com 3. MICHAEL ANASTASSIADES IC T1 high table lamp in brushed brass, £328; conranshop.co.uk 4. ACHILLE CASTIGLIONI Taccia table lamp in anodised bronze, £616; conranshop.co.uk 5. JUNIPER M lamp in polished copper £500; juniper-design.com

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Allergy Tested. 100% Fragrance Free.

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In t e r i o r i n s p i ra t i o n : T h e B e v e rl y H i l l s h o t e l

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CALIFORNIA DREAMING Compiled by SERENE KHAN

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1. AENEAS Light in brass and pink by Lacoli & McAllister, £1,757; iacolimcallister.com 2. KNOLL Platner gold-plated coffee table, £2,785; skandium.com 3. HOLLYS HOUSE Brass palm lamp, £449; hollys-house.com 4. DOUGLAS & BEC Arch vanity chair, £835; douglasandbec.com 5. MULLER VAN SEVEREN DUO Rocking chair, £2,020; monologuelondon.com 6. SWEETPEA & WILLOW Kentia palm tree, £80; sweetpeaandwillow.com 7. BOUSSAC Bananier wallpaper, £336 per roll; pierrefrey.com 8. DANTE-GOODS AND BADS Minima Moralia room divider, £POA; clippings.com 9. HOUSE OF HACKNEY Palmeral ‘Amhurst’ sofa, from £6,295; houseofhackney.com 10. LONDON TERRARIUM Carboy terrarium, from £200; londonterrariums.com

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HOMES

AT HOME WITH

Caroline Legrand Words CHARLOTTE ADSETT Photography KATE MARTIN

A former designer at Anya Hindmarch with many years’ experience in luxury fashion, Caroline Legrand started her interior design consultancy in 2013. She has worked on projects from Ibiza to New York for clients including beachwear designer Melissa Odabash and event organiser Yasmin Mills. She invited us in to her home in Holland Park, where she lives with her two sons and their dog Master Yoda, for a glimpse at how she styles her private space.

What do you love about the area in which you live?

I have always lived near a park since I moved to London. For me it’s a necessity, I need to see some green around me. Holland Park is my favourite park in London; it’s like a wood and the Kyoto Garden is a very peaceful and special place to me. I often go sit on a bench and meditate. And everything I want is within walking distance.

How would you describe your interior style?

I would say chic, elegant and sophisticated, but also very individual and unique to the client. I use mostly vintage pieces and work around them – I don’t decide on a colour scheme and then incorporate the furniture and furnishings; it’s the opposite. That’s why it flows.

Have you made any significant changes to your apartment since you bought it?

The apartment was bought as a complete wreck having not been touched for 40 years. As a large lateral space with perfect proportions I immediately saw the potential and the opportunities it offered to create a chic and contemporary space. It took seven months from start to finish to complete, including opening a supporting wall to five floors above me. I had brilliant builders who I still work with to this day on other projects, and this was the start of my career in interior design.

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Do you have a favourite room?

Yes, my office, because I spend hours every day in this little jewel box. It’s very practical but very chic – the walls are luxurious with gold seagrass wallpaper and the carpet is leopard print. My favourite pieces of art from Hurvin Anderson hang above my computer, and I have much treasured art from Glen Rubsamen, Guido Mocafico and Tracey Emin in this little room, too.

Which are the most treasured objects in your home?

I am probably more attached to art than pieces of furniture. I have a few pieces I really love, like my 1970s stone mask that hangs in my bedroom or the pair of Philippe Pastor oil paintings in my hallway. But I am also practising detachment in my daily life, thanks to years of yoga. So as much as I love all that I have in my homes, I am also able to let go of any of these at any given moment. And I like that idea. It also means that when I work on a project with clients I don’t get emotional or attached to certain ideas or interiors, and can just constantly move on or create new spaces. It is very healthy that way and it avoids a lot of unnecessary stress.

“My clients hire me because I have a certain aesthetic and am able to think outside the box. I like to give my clients many options and moods – it’s my job to be as creative as possible"

Is your home a reflection of your personality or neutral space in which you can switch off ?

A reflection of my personality; I always want to change things every year or so. I have an extremely creative mind and I get inspired by things on a daily basis – it can be exhausting.

I don’t switch off really at home as this is where I create. So I only switch off when I am on a beach somewhere, or when I exercise.

Where do you get your inspiration from?

Art, magazines, colours, textures: I look at everything around me. I go to the most important art fairs, scour Instagram, and keep clippings of anything that catches my eye. I steer clear of interior trends because they’re too limiting – I don’t want to stifle my creativity. My clients hire me because I have a certain aesthetic and am able to think outside the box.

I like to give my clients many options and moods – it’s my job to be as creative as possible.

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Is your home complete, or is it an everevolving project?

Right now it’s complete. I have done some new work to my house in Ibiza recently, which has kept me busy. I have also just done a project in LA so I have left my London flat alone – for now.

If you could change one thing about your home, what would it be?

I would move the flat to the first floor to have very high ceilings. Mine are 3m high right now but I have always loved the idea of having 4m-high ceilings.

What’s your favourite design trick to make a space instantly look pulled together?

I love flowers and vases, so I would buy a new vase and add some massive cherry blossoms or any tree branches to make it look spectacular. And moving furniture around always gives a fresh look.

How do you like to entertain at home?

I like to host dinner parties as I love cooking. My dining table sits 12 so it’s great to have your friends over and cook for them. I have done quite a few parties in London over the years, but these days I host more at my house in Ibiza. I cooked for 100 guests recently. carolinelegranddesign.com

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L

Caroline's

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N

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GLOSSARY ABSOLUTE FLOWERS & HOME 12-14 Clifton Road, W9 It has the best selection of vases and flowers in London, and the vintage home section has great furniture, cushions, lamps and so on. You can easily redo one room in one stop. absoluteflowersandhome.com THE CONRAN SHOP Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road, SW3 I buy towels, linens, accessories and also furniture for clients that complement the vintage pieces we buy abroad. conranshop.co.uk JONATHAN ADLER 60 Sloane Avenue, SW3 Fantastic for vintage remix pieces, accessories and little gifts for friends or clients. Great service, too. jonathanadler.com JULIAN CHICHESTER 1-4 Queen’s Elm Parade, SW3 I love the vibe of this Chelsea store. Their lamps are pretty cool and reasonably priced. They have some interesting pieces that are easy to mix with my vintage finds. julianchichester.com TALISMAN 79-91 New King’s Road, SW6 The only shop in London with great vintage and collectors pieces, perfectly curated. talismanlondon.com

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The

Flashback

KEYSTONE PICTURES USA/ALAMY

A l o o k t h r o u g h L o n d o n’ s a r c h i v e s

Seeing Double 3 June, 1967 London in the Swinging Sixties and the only girl on anyone’s mind was Twiggy. With her petite frame and elfin crop, she was the face of a generation – there was simply no one else like her. Or was there?

Sweden seemed to think so. A competition was held in Stockholm to find the next Twiggy. Out of 800 applicants, the judges chose 16-year-old Kerstin Lindberg, who was then sent to London to see how she measured up against the real deal. Their encounter, pictured above, made for great publicity but eagle-eyed onlookers spotted that Lindberg, despite the photographer’s clever art direction, was two inches taller than Twiggy. Sadly history does not record what became of Lindberg but Twiggy’s place is firmly cemented in the style lexicon. Some 50 years later Twiggy remains a London style icon.

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SUMMER STYLE I N T H E CI T Y London’s premium shopping and dining destination, 2 minutes’ walk from St Pauls Cathedral.

Open 7 days a week.

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