Shipshape 12 - Winter 2012/13

EE FR

Shipshape winter 2012/13

www.shipshapebristol.co.uk

BRISTOL ARTS,EVENTS, & MARITIME HISTORY Thekla | Dockisation | Neptune

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CONTENTS PIC: JAMES@THEGROUPOFSEVEN.CO.UK

Welcome s we enter the party season it seems fitting to share the rambunctious tale of Thekla, Bristol’s own boat that rocked thanks to the vision, imagination and dedication of tormented genius and surrealist ivian tanshall. Read its fascinating story on page . Have you ever heard of the term dockisation oined y our ictorian cousins, it could have a very ig impact of the future of our city. ee page for more. Elsewhere, we share our pick of R s utumn E hi ition p , share some great suggestions for family days out p and ecome ac uainted with a pot ellied deity p . e hope you en oy the maga ine.

News & views 04 U nderfall Yard, Watershed award and new app

Events 07 hotography, theatre, lectures and shopping

Dock of ages 16 s this ictorian idea a out to e revived

Harbourside map 20 Plan your route by foot, bus or bike

The last showboat 22 The cra y, colourful history of Thekla

Pot-bellied deity 27

13

eet ristol s oldest free standing statue

Kids’ corner 28

27

Ways to spend a day with your nearest and dearest

Cold feat 31 Ed rewitt shares wildlife spotting tips

Shipshape directory 32 The latest news and offers from our friends

29 shipshape magaz ine issue 1 2 winter www.ship shap ebristol.co.uk

published by the group of sev en editorial, design

production thegroup of sev en .co.uk

editorial suggestions ed itor@ ship shap ebristol.co.uk

I ❤ Harbourside 38 Romany Ha ell of Hotwell Road s The Galley

past issues

galleries ship shap ebristol.co.uk

advertising en uiries in f o@ thegroup of sev en .co.uk distri ution in f o@ ship shap ebristol.co.uk

Disclaimer The information contained in this pu lication is provided as a general guide only. hile every care is taken to ensure that the details are as accurate as possi le, we make no warranty or representation, e press or implied, a out the accuracy or completeness of the information contained in this pu lication. The views or opinions e pressed in this pu lication are strictly those of the authors. The pu lishers and or any of its associated companies or usiness partners accept no responsi ility for damage or loss, howsoever caused, arising directly or indirectly from reliance upon any information o tained from this pu lication. The Group of even td .

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NEWS & VIEWS

Happy birthday Hippodrome Bristol Hippodrome, the city’s grand old city-centre playhouse, celebrates its centenary this month.

D esigned by F rank Matcham, the great V ictorian theatre architect who also gave us the Hackney E mpire and L ondon Palladium, and built on the site of a Tudor orchard, the Hippo opened its doors on Monday 16 ecem er . The first performance was ‘ Sands O ’ D ee’, an extraordinary water spectacle in which enormous waves broke across the seashore and horses dove into hundreds of gallons of water to rescue the imperilled heroine.

This aquatic theme marked the Hippodrome out from the start: its rear portion could be raised and its front portion slid away, to reveal a huge rectangular steel tank capable of holding 10,0 ga llons of water. This meant the theatre could house three forms of entertainment: stage, circus and aquatic.

That incredible feature has, alas, long gone, but the dome in the roof above the stalls – which can be slid open to reveal the night sky above – still remains.

J ust after the F irst World War, a young Bristol boy called Archibald L each joined the theatre staff

as a callboy, later appearing on stage with Bob Pender’s acrobat troupe. L each followed the troupe to America in 1920 a nd remained across the pond.

A few years later, he would gain worldwide fame as Bristol’s most famous thespian son, C ary Grant. The theatre survived the Second World War unscathed, with a packed run of entertainment to boost morale.

Tragically, though, less than three years after the war ended, a disastrous fire roke out and almost destroyed the place.

D own the years, some hallowed names have graced the Hippo’s stage – including Peter Sellers, F rank Sinatra, L aurel and Hardy, Marlene D ietrich and Morecombe and Wise. N ot forgetting, of course, 1950s rock ’n’ roll pioneer E ddie C ochran, who played the last show of his life there before a fatal car crash near C hippenham. The theatre’s illustrious roll call of premieres, meanwhile, includes 1953’ s British premiere of ‘ Guys & D olls’ and, half a century later, a spectacular world premiere for the D isney and C ameron Mackintosh co-production ‘ Mary Poppins’ (pictured).

Happy birthday to a beautiful building and a vital part of ristol s ever ourishing and e citing entertainment landscape. s M ore: br istolhippodr

om e.org.uk

‘ M issorts’ is a new app com ining contemporary fiction, music and creative technology. It features stories by 1 0 writers, each accompanied by a musical score. The free app is location-aware: each story is triggered by GPS as you move through the streets, giving users a new take on the city around them. M ore m issorts.com

Wallace & Gromit open Grand Christmas Shop Bristol C hildren’s Hospital charity, the Grand Appeal, has opened a new shop in the city. L ocated on U pper Maudlin Street, the charity shop gives customers the chance to buy exclusive Wallace & Gromit merchandise while raising money for the C hildren’s Hospital. A range of C hristmas cards, calendars, mugs, artwork, soft toys and clothing are available to buy until Saturday 2 D ecember.

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THE BIG IDEA Shipshape asks newly elected independent mayor George Ferguson for five ideas that he believes will change Bristol for the better: 1 GREENEST CITY IN UK

I want to work towards us being a model ‘One Planet City’ by reducing our carbon footprint. This will need some radical action to reduce energy consumption and pollution.

2 BRISTOL FREEDOM PASS

I want to introduce a smart card that covers all forms of public transport, including water transport, plus access to city venues, public services, discounts and facilities.

3 AN ARENA FOR BRISTOL

We need a great place to host big acts and events.

Temple Quarter Enterprise Zone, next to Temple Meads, is where I plan to make this happen.

4 MAKE SUNDAYS SPECIAL

I want to make Sundays special by following best European example including pedestrianising much of the central area on Sundays to attract performers, families, lovers and promenaders.

5 MAKE BRISTOL POVERTY HISTORY

By far the biggest challenge.

We are a relatively rich city but we need to make sure that we attract more investment into Bristol and that the benefit is spread more evenly and that we house people decently.

Insane, absurd or inspired: email info@shipshapebristol. co.uk with your ideas for a better Bristol

al.com / christm as Shipshape

27/11/2012 09:51

Underfall Yard wins funding The historic nderfall Yard on ristol s oating har our has secured a round pass for its application to the Heritage ottery und, marking the first ma or step on its way ecoming a maritime centre of e cellence . The Yard, located at the western end of the har our, is home to a num er of skilled shipwrights, carpenters, fi re composite specialists, lacksmiths, welders and riggers. t also houses a patent slipway, a runway that allows ships to e lifted out of the water for repair or inspection. The funding will e used to help pay for a feasi ility study leading to refur ishment works to allow redundant and under used uildings to e rought into use and the eventual development of the site into a centre of e cellence. The Har our uthority functions will continue to operate in the yard. Shi ps hape will e running a full feature on nderfall Yard s plans in the spring issue.

Watershed launches Playable City Award ultural hu atershed has launched a , international award designed to push oundaries and encourage e perimentation. The laya le ity ward calls on artists to use creative technologies to surprise, challenge and engage audiences , generating work that will e plore the theme of a playa le city. The winning work will e installed in a pu lic space in ristol efore touring internationally. u missions close on ecem er and the winner will e announced in anuary .

M orew atershed.c o.uk/ pl ayablecity Shipshape

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WINTER EVENTS

SHOP CHRISTMAS MARKETS Broadmead’s two Christmas markets are well and truly in gear. The popular German market is back with wooden chalet-style stalls selling gifts, homemade crafts, drinks and food, not to mention an authentic Bavarian beer garden. The local market offers handmade jewellery, clothing and locally produced food. Both markets will run until 29 December.

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FEAST

Spicy suppers This winter, sample some warming, e otic fare at ristol s est sian restaurants

visitbristol.co.uk

The new winter menu at the historic Shakespeare Tavern – Bristol’s longest-serving ale house – features such succulent treats as ovenbaked camembert, grilled sea bass and slow-cooked pork belly. If you’re heading to the theatre that evening, just produce your tickets to get 15% off your meal.

And, to guarantee yourself a merry start to 2013, just collect the Shakey’s vouchers throughout December for free drink offers to be redeemed during January. gkpubs.co.uk/pubs-inbristol/shakespeare-pub/

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MAIN PIC: JAMES@THEGROUPOFSEVEN.CO.UK

EAT SHAKESPEARE TAVERN

Winter is drawing in and three of ristol s finest sian restaurants have added some fantastic warming fare to their e otic, adventurous menus. t amaskar ounge main image on elsh ack, the emphasis is on contemporary takes on classic ndian dishes. The restaurant s winter menu arrives on ecem er, and head chef r un hanal has some opulent fare in store including ginger and carrot soup warmed with spices and a heart warming lam sor a soup with coriander, ginger, lack pepper and garlic. r why not try their chicken, lam , seafood or vegeta le kolhapuris, which use garlic, onions, ginger and green and red chillies to put fire in the elly of all who approach them. Garlic, ginger, onion and chillies are all known for their healing properties, and during a cold spell these offer support to the immune system, hanal e plains. f you still need to add some heat come pudding time, you should make a eeline for amaskar s ndian rice pudding, warmed with cardamom pods. hanal has honed his craft over years working in cities including um ai, u ai and ondon, and as such his knowledge of fine cuisine from across ndia is vast he ll also e introducing ndian cookery classes at the restaurant soon.

ver at a a a aar, chef inay Reddy a ove recommends the chicken adras, a perfect winter warmer dish from ndia s cooler southern regions. est served with steamed rice, the adras features dried red chillies, star anise, mustard seeds, turmeric and more. This dish tastes etter with chicken on the one as more of the avour is kept sealed in, inay e plains. t s a rich, tangy, spicy dish ideal for winters. inter highlights at yristica left include the tawa ki lam and dha a murgh. The tawa ki is a pot roasted lam neck fillet cooked with fresh onion, tomato, ginger and garlic with exotic green spices, e plains manager mit akhani. The dha a murgh, made with onion, tomatoes, yogurt and fresh coriander, is a rustic chicken curry made on the roadside cafes for night lorry drivers it takes its name from the cafes, which are known as dha as in ndia. oth dishes have a fantastic warmth to them, as well as the delicacy from their her s and spices. s M ore: n am askarloun ge.com , z az abaz aar.com , m yristica.co.uk

mas shopping fatigue Treat yourself to a C hristmas Gift S pa Day at the L ido. This includes the use of the outdoor pool, sauna, steam room and hot tu from am to pm, plus a one hour spa treatment of your choice and a ido spa scented candle for you to take home. vaila le weekdays throughout ecem er e cept ec , . M ore: lid obristol.com seven

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26/11/2012 17:18

WINTER EVENTS Q&A

Mud Dock Deli Shipshape speaks to B ev erly A rron , the manager of Mud D ock D eli, the sister operation to Mud D ock C afé and C ycleworks, which opened on C umberland R oad this summer How’s the Deli story going so far?

We opened at the very end of J uly and it’s been very busy from the start, with more customers than expected choosing to eat in rather than take meals and drinks away. The views over Bristol and the docks enticed people to sit outside over the summer: now, as winter draws in, it becomes more of a cosy escape from the cold wind that whips along the river.

What are proving your most popular items?

O ur deli counter has a great selection of healthy, good-value salads, and our spicy chicken and chorizo pizza is addictive. At weekends, meanwhile, it’s mostly about the cooked breakfasts and bacon sandwiches. We’re also baking cakes and cookies every day to keep up with demand. O ur take-away suppers – freshly prepared, ready to heat up at home – are also proving very popular.

Any changes planned over the next few months?

O ver the winter we’ll be serving more hot meals and comfort food – soups, casseroles, tagines – for

customers to eat in or take away for supper.

Wapping Wharf will develop fast over the next few years.

How will that impact upon you?

It’s going to be an interesting time for us. Initially we ll pro a ly find ourselves in the middle of a building site, so we may be serving more builders’ brews than lattes for a while! O nce the development is finished, we should have more local residents and we will consider opening in the evening. I’m sure competition will open up around us before long – but hopefully, by then, we’ll be well established and have some loyal customers. s

Architecture lecture

PIC: FRANCESGARD.COM

M ichael M anser: S pace for L iving W ed23 J an “ A leading advocate for innovative house design, Michael is past president of the R oyal Institute of British Architects (R IBA) and founder of the prestigious R IBA Manser Medal. A chance to hear observations from a career that has spanned over 50 years.”

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From 21 Jan to 22 Mar Bristol’s ever-enterprising environment centre Create hosts ‘Making Waves’, an exhibition and events series that focuses on the scale, speed and dangers of plastic pollution on our planet. Hosted by Somerset-based sustainable development organisation Raw Foundation, the exhibition will use art and documentary material to question our everyday use of plastics, and investigate ways to reduce our plastic footprint.

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createbristol.org

M ore: m ud- doc k.co.uk

HEAR

O ver the winter, Bristol’s Architecture C entre presents six lectures by leading British architects, who’ll be speaking at ne t door s rnolfini. entre D irector C hristine D avis (pictured) introduces us to four of the leading lights.

LEARN MAKING WAVES @ CREATE

Jam ie F obert: S pace for Art W ed6F eb “ J amie is well known for his work at leading art institutions such as K ettle’s Yard and Tate Modern.

He will be revealing his latest expansion plans for Tate St Ives.”

S tephen Hodder M B E – RIB A S tirling P riz e L ecture W ed 2 0 F eb “ R IBA’s President E lect, Stephen Hodder won the inaugural Stirling Prize for Architecture for the U niversity of Salford’s C entenary Building in 1 9 9 6 . He joins us, prior to taking office, to share his thoughts on contemporary practice.” s

C indy Walters: S pace for E ducation W ed30J an “ O ne half of acclaimed practice Walters & C ohen and recipient of the AJ Woman Architect of the Year 201, C indy Walters will discuss her recent education projects, including C otham School and the award-winning extension M ore: ar chitecturecent re.co.uk. at C olston’s Girls’ School.”

A llt alks6.30pm ,£6/ £4c onc s.

SHOP TOBACCO FACTORY CHRISTMAS MARKET The Tobacco Factory’s Christmas Markets are back – and they’re bigger than ever, with some 60 stalls offering festive food and gifts, plus mulled drinks, hot chestnuts, kids’ entertainment and plenty of Xmas atmos.

You could also win a fantastic Christmas hamper filled with market goodies, plus tickets and vouchers for the Tobacco Factory Theatre and cafe/bar. Every Sun ’til Christmas, 10am-3pm.

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tobaccofactory.com

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26/11/2012 15:08

WINTER EVENTS REVEL

Colston Hall highlights T oddW ills, the Hall s new Head of rogramme, picks his favourite shows from the season ahead

CELEBRATE GRAIN BARGE New Year’s Eve at the floating bar/restaurant on Hotwell Road will be an occasion to savour, with live music, DJs and a general party atmosphere, enhanced by the twinkling lights of the harbour all around you. Lunch and dinner will be served on the day (reservations essential), and/or there’s a £15 entry fee for the evening party, which kicks off from 9pm. A few weeks later, the Barge will host its own Winter Beer Festival, with live music, DJs and great beers from Bristol Beer Factory – plus a selection of guest ales from near and far. Check the website in the new year for more info.

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grainbarge.co.uk

MARVEL BACH CHOIR St George’s Bristol hosts Bristol Bach Choir for an evening of music and readings on 14-15 Dec, Bristol Ensemble and City of Bristol Choir for carols, readings and classical works on 21-22 Dec and the Ensemble’s Children’s Christmas Carnival on 23 Dec. MORE

stgeorgesbristol.co.uk

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The S nowman & P eter and the Wolf T ue 1 8 D ec “ We’ve been talking for years about showing the film The nowman at hristmas, so when the opportunity arose to have a distinguished orchestra like the elsh ational pera s accompany this much loved film, we umped at the chance. The second half of the concert is rokofiev s classic eter and the olf , with narration y the wonderful Tamsin Greig lack ooks , Green ing . have the vinyl at home with avid owie as narrator, which my kids love. m sure Tamsin will ring the story to life ust as well as iggy tardust does at home S lapstick F estival F ri 2 5 J an lapstick goes from strength to strength, and we re proud to continue our support. They consistently ring high profile comedians to us, and this time we ve got ara riain as host, as well as the legendary arry ryer performing. m also looking forward to seeing Georges li s eautifully restored silent film Trip to the oon , one of the most famous silent films of all time. Even if you ve never seen it, you ve almost certainly seen the iconic image of the moon with a rocket lodged in its eye. ighty oosh fans out there will also e familiar with the image of the oon s face as played y a soporific oel ielding.

Adhesive L ive F ri 1 F eb This gig has een organised y talented ristol musician ay ilco and oasts some of the city s finest artists and producers including Roni i e, oker, aid lak, r eaker, uggsy and ames orton. t s really a chance for underground music fans to hear the music they love in a new conte t, accompanied y a piece classical ensem le. t s ust the sort of cutting edge pro ect we ll e seeing more of in future here.

E than J ohns M on 4 F eb Ethan s pro a ly most famous for his production role on al ums y Ryan dams, aura arling, ings of eon and many more esides and, if what read in the papers is correct, he s also colla orating once again with aul c artney on his latest al um. f anyone can coa a decent tune out of ir aul these days, m sure it s Ethan ohns ith his de ut al um, f ot ow Then hen , ohns has finally stepped out from ehind the mi ing desk and is receiving some much deserved praise for his own music. He s also going to do a at the end of the show, which will e pretty enlightening, m sure as well as his own glittering career, Ethan s father Glyn was a producer on al ums y o ylan, ed ep, The eatles and The ho.

Richard Hawley W ed 2 0 F eb owedges was the al um that got me hooked on Richard Hawley and ve een en oying the ride ever since. consummate performer yet an underrated guitarist in my view, his live shows always seem like uite intimate affairs even in the grandest of venues. m looking forward to the gig ut not as much as arah, our Head of arketing, who walked down the aisle to Tonight The treets re urs . s M ore: colston hall.org

aterside caf ar music venue N o.1 Harbourside is taking bookings for C hristmas dinners throughout ecem er. hoose two or three courses . of delicious locally sourced delights, including raised o cheek with homemade sauerkraut and pickled cauli ower. M ore: christm as@ n o1 harboursid e.co.uk, 0 1 1 7 9 2 9 1 1 0 0 nine

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WINTER EVENTS ADMIRE

Christmas at the Spiegeltent If you’ve strolled across the Harbourside’s Waterfront Square of late, you will have noticed an extraordinary and beautiful structure in situ…

This is the C rystal Palace, a 1 0 0 -year-old structure made from mahogany, dappled glass and coloured mirrors, detailed in velvet and brocade and illuminated with antique lamps. The Palace, also known as the Spiegeltent, has travelled from its native Belgium to make its home in Bristol in the run-up to C hristmas, and Handmade E vents have programmed an impressive line-up of top-notch music, comedy, ca aret and more within. t s the first of three annual visits the Spiegeltent will be making to Bristol. Here Steve Meadows, Handmade’s D irector, picks out five gems from this year s programme “ O ur C hristmas parties for friends, family or colleagues will make for a great night out. Starting with a gorgeous three-course meal by resident chefs, Bristol’s Mi C asa Stu C asa, followed by a cabaret show based on the tales of the Brothers Grimm.

D ance the night out with the in-house band and drinks from Santa’s Grotto C ocktail Bar.” F ri 7 / T hu 1 3 / F ri 1 4 / S at 1 5 / T hu 2 0 D ec “ C raig C harles’s F antasy F unk B and don’t do many gigs, so we’re lucky to have them coming to us.

C harles asked his BBC 6 Music funk/ soul audience who’d be the ultimate funk band line-up – they answered and he pulled them together! C raig is also doing a D J set.” W ed 1 2 D ec “ The P uppini S isters and the Hot P otato S yncopators are all about old-school style and glamour.

Bristol’s Syncopators mix ’2 0 s-style jazz and danceband melodies with brilliant comedy. The Sisters sing close harmonies, like the Andrews Sisters – but as well

as some old-time classics, they also cover contemporary songs in a swing style.” S un 1 6 D ec “ After a sell-out run at Bristol O ld V ic last year, acclaimed beatboxer Shlomo returns with his brand new outfit, The L ip F actory – an all-vocal band of seven brilliant beatboxers and singers. They’ll be supported by The Boxettes, all-female rising stars of the beatboxing and a cappella world, led by Bristolraised Bellatrix.” M on 1 7 D ec “ When he saw the programme, our comedy guru said we had the best D ecember line-up outside L ondon.

We’ve got four nights, headlined by household names like S happi K horsandi and S tephen K . Amos, and supported by rising stars like S imon E vans, C harlie B aker and the brilliant mime comic The B oy with Tape on his F ace.” M on 3 / M on 1 0 / T ue 1 8 D ec s M ore: christm assp iegelten t.co.uk

PLAY

Brunel’s ss Great Britain A new series of online games on the website of Brunel’s ss Great Britain allows visitors to discover the story, life and mysterious disappearance of the ship’s most famous C aptain, J ohn Gray – and to relive his life and progress up the ship’s hierarchy.

A six-foot, 1 6 -stone Shetlander who’d spent his life on the high seas, Gray was respected among the ship’s crew and passengers, and rose via second and first mate to become captain. He mysteriously ten

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disappeared one night in 1 8 7 2 and was never seen again.

Your voyage of discovery begins online via games that follow a series of story points. You can test your diplomacy skills by solving a dispute with passengers; pass this and other challenges and you will rise up the ranks.

All the stories that make up the game are real, based on evidence from passenger diaries and archive material from the Brunel Trust’s collection.

V isitors who work their way up to the rank of captain will be entitled to 1 0 % off entry on board the ship – and a free captain’s hat. s M ore: ssgreatbritain .org/ cap tain gray

DONATE CAROL CONCERT The Lord Mayor of Bristol’s Children Appeal is a yearround charity appeal that helps children in need at Christmas time, by providing them with vouchers that can be exchanged for food, clothes and toys. Each child receives two £20 vouchers, one to be spent on food and the other on clothing or toys, and the appeal needs to raise an annual £66,000 to fund this work. You can donate by visiting their website (below) and there’s also a fundraising Carol Concert at Colston Hall on Mon 10 Dec. Tickets are £6 each from 0117 922 3686 / www.colstonhall.org MORE

lordmayorofbristol appeal.co.uk

EXPLORE AT-BRISTOL Bristol’s brilliant science exploratory investigates the rules of attraction on Valentine’s Day with an after-hours event for adults only. No, not what you’re thinking: instead, the evening will allow you to explore the chemistry of the human body via hundreds of exhibits, explosive live shows and special themed activities – an alternative take on Valentine’s Day that promises more dissected hearts and racy Greek myths than chocolates and roses.

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at-bristol.org.uk

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26/11/2012 14:01

WINTER EVENTS BROWSE HARBOURSIDE MARKET The popular Harbourside Market will be doing a busy trade in the run-up to Christmas, with dozens of stalls featuring local produce and creativity every Saturday and Sunday from 11am-4pm. In December you’ll find locally made gifts, beautiful stocking fillers, handcrafted cards and wrapping paper, organic candles and handmade wreaths. Café Cake will also be open for refuelling stops, with delicacies including brandy-soaked prune and chocolate brownies and mulled cider.

There’ll even be some festive creative workshops, including wreath and willow star-making, bead jewellery and felt flower-making. Pick up a programme at No1 Harbourside or check the website for details. facebook.com/ harboursidemarket

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DEVOUR GRILLSTOCK Carnivores rejoice: the folk behind the Harbourside’s popular music and barbecue summer fest have opened up permanent premises at St Nick’s Market. Specialities include 12-hour pit-smoked pulled pork roll and hickorysmoked baby back ribs.

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grillstock.co.uk

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CONTEMPLATE

RWA exhibition This lovely painting – ‘ D eployed’ – by Bridgwater artist Michael C larke is one of the 50 w orks of art currently adorning the walls of the R oyal West of E ngland Academy on Q ueen’s R oad.

R unning until 30 D ecember, the R WA presents its vast annual Autumn E xhibition, for which artists from around the country are invited to submit work. A team of art experts painstakingly whittles the 2,0odd submissions (paintings, illustrations, sculpture, photography and architects’ models) down to the magic 50, a nd these last are hung at the gallery throughout the autumn and early winter.

As such, the Autumn E xhibition represents some of the best and most adventurous art being

made in the country at this moment in time. F or anyone with even a passing interest in visual art, it’s pretty much a must-see.

This particular painting, one of our very favourites from this year’s crop, has a fascinating story behind it: C larke was recently made redundant and, rather than look for another job, decided to use his payout to fund a year working as an artist.

Before this show, very few people have seen C larke’s work, as he’s been reluctant to show it around his su mission for the R was the first time he had entered his work into any sort of competition. Q uite a start! s M ore: r wa.org.uk

C hristmas comes early at C abot C ircus’s brilliant booksellers F oyles, which hosts a C hristmas Shopping E vening on Thursday 6 D ecember, with mince pies, mulled wine and a tombola with prizes and vouchers to win.M ore: f oyles.co.uk eleven

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WINTER EVENTS

GASP

LAUGH SLAPSTICK @ WATERSHED

This winter Bristol Museum and Art Gallery once again hosts the V eolia Environnement ildlife hotographer of the Year exhibition, an exhaustive selection of some of the most beautiful, astonishing and emotive images taken of animals and plants in the past 12 m onths harlie Hamilton ames, Treading ater , pictured . Each year, tens of thousands of entries are received and judged by an international jury of photography experts: and this year’s winners, runners up and highly commended entries are on display at the Museum until 13 M arch. s

Britain’s biggest festival of silent film returns to bring a warm glow to wintry Bristol for a ninth successive year, with four days of films, music, archive discoveries and star guests. Head to Watershed to hear ‘Mock the Week’ guest Lucy Porter discuss 1920s/30s film star Marion Davies and Aardman’s Peter Lord on the roots of visual comedy in animation. See also our Colston Hall story on page 9.

Stunning wildlife photography

ore r sto o se s nd

/ e/ er es

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watershed.co.uk

ENGAGE

Performing art at Arnolfini The next exhibition at the this ever-adventurous art space explores the history of that little-understood artform, performance art O pening on 2 F ebruary, ‘ V ersion C ontrol’ will present works and objects that themselves ‘ perform’. “ The exhibition will show works from different areas, including theatre and new media as well as traditional formats like sculpture and painting – and all the areas in between,” e plains rnolfini s curator el eider pictured . e have, for e ample, work y Tim Etchells, whose background is mostly in theatre – but who is developing a work based on a well-known installation by the American artist Bruce N auman. It’s a process of repetition, which also creates something new. ‘ V ersion C ontrol’ will be a very active exhibition, with various events taking over the gallery spaces at different times – and it will itself also change over the course of the exhibition.” el took over as rnolfini s curator of e hi itions in April this year, having previously worked as director at Stuttgart’s K ü nstlerhaus and curator of L udlow 3 8 , an e hi ition space on ew York s ower East ide. “ Bristol is a great city to live and work in, with a very active and multifaceted artistic scene,” he says. “ The city has great institutions and artist-run initiatives, but thankfully doesn’t have the extreme competitiveness of the ‘ hyper-metropoli’. This allows us and our colleagues to develop all kinds of e citing colla orations. e twelve

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have wonderful relationships with partners in Bristol and beyond, with art spaces, universities and other initiatives: from smaller, experimental places such as Picture This to the citywide F estival of Ideas. “ But most importantly, after having worked with art institutions in Europe and the , m impressed at how much audiences engage with our programme, and how many people are actually visiting. I have never experienced such a buzz as on a weekend in our galleries – and I have seen a lot of galleries!” s ore

rno fin or

SALIVATE CHOCOLATE AT M SHED M Shed brings some sweet relief from the dark winter days with an exhibition devoted to that opulent luxury with a little bit of Bristol in its DNA: chocolate. The exhibition (2 Feb-6 May) explores the history, mystery, magic and science of one of the nation’s favourite products.

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mshed.org

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WINTER EVENTS MUNCH

Glassboat treats Glassboat chef C harlieH urrell talks us through some of the seasonal specialities finding their way onto the menu this winter SEE NO BORDERS Bristol Museum and Art Gallery and Arnolfini have jointly become one of five collections in the UK to be awarded with a major fund to invest in contemporary art by the Art Fund. Over the past three years an extraordinary collection of international contemporary art has been developed, and Bristol audiences get to see the first wave of acquisitions this winter.

The first in a trio of major exhibitions showcasing the new artworks, ‘No Borders’ (15 Dec-2 Jun) features work by major art-world players from the Middle East, Asia and Africa, including Ai Weiwei (the dissident Chinese artist who famously filled Tate Modern with a million porcelain sunflower seeds) and Shahzia Sikander (Pakistan) who reinterprets the tradition of miniature painting in Asian art. bristol.gov.uk/page/ museums-and-galleries

MORE

BROWSE THE FESTIVE EDITION OF TEMPLE QUAY FOOD MARKET The Square, Temple Quay, Thu 6 Dec from 11.30am MORE

bristoltemplequarter.com

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always think a chef s priority should e to use those ingredients that are in season, and to have as much fun with them as possi le. inter has some great specialities, from eautiful rich game to warming root vegeta les. nd this time of year, for me, is all a out stews, raises and soups hearty, warming fare. like to do as much raising, or pot roasting, as possi le during the winter months. raising is a great way to slow cook meat, giving you a eautiful sticky, rich consistency and avour. t s always nice to use some different cooking techni ues on the same plate to get a nice variety of te tures and avours so, for e ample, might do a dish featuring oth roast loin and raised shoulder of venison. d pro a ly serve that one with sarladaise potato a wonderful rench dish, a sort of potato cake also featuring acon, thyme, garlic and duck fat.

Game, generally, will take precedence over the winter, as it s in season until around mid e ruary, so you can e pect to see grouse, mallard, pheasant, partridge and more on the menu until then. favourite dish of mine is reast of mallard with a uail cotch egg, celeriac pur e and al a mushrooms. like to make some great soups at this time of year o tail and ham hock soups are lovely clear roths, or for something thicker and chunkier ll do a smoked haddock chowder. m keen on fish and meat com os seared scallops with confit pork elly, for e ample, or raised o tail with wild sea ass, roast a y shallots and chicory. also like to use a lot of shellfish at this time of year oysters, cockles, mussels, clams, ra or clams, lo ster and cra .

Root vegeta les parsnips, erusalem artichokes, eetroots and some eautiful winter s uashes really come into their own a out now. ll of them are great ases for soups, and erusalem artichokes also make a wonderful pur e, which have served with loin of hare and rain ow chard. more e otic foodstuff, truf es, will e around until anuary and provide a wonderful avour to winter dishes. s M ore: gl assboat.co.uk.L unc hat G lassboati s£10 f ort woc oursesor £12f ort hree.

WATCH

Shakespeare at the Tobacco Factory Every year since , the end of winter has rought the annual return of this rilliant ristol company, cele rated for their gripping, intimate, super ly acted and directed performances of the ard s repertoire. TT s season kicks off with the meaty Richard e ar the tale, only loosely ased on historical fact, of the treacherous hunch ack ing, his achiavellian

rise to the throne and ultimate downfall at the hands of his own cousin, the future Henry .

Richard then makes way for The Two Gentlemen of erona pr ay . ne of ill s less performed plays, it s a dark comedy that addresses friendship and love, loyalty and etrayal. t tells the tale of two lifelong friends

who are parted first y circumstance, then y rivalry in love. an their loyalty to each other survive the test How deep into treacherousness will se ual o session drive them nd what do even the most adored of women count for in a profoundly masculine world E pect another nerveless, sensitive rendering from TT with supporting roles from two of hakespeare s funniest clowns and a disgracefully incontinent dog named ra . s M ore sattf .org.uk thirteen

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WINTER EVENTS REJOICE

Christmas theatre As ever, your choice of festive theatre in Bristol is an appetising one… read on to discover Shi ps hape ’s shows of the season Inventive and playful, the Tobacco F actory Theatre’s homegrown C hristmas shows are always a treat, and this year’s ‘ Hansel and Gretel’ (5 D ec-14 J an) should be no exception.

It’s a co-production with the multinational troupe N ew International E ncounter: the latter have already staged a version of the Grimm tale at C ambridge’s J unction, with The Guardian praising it as “ A folksy affair, done with just the right touch of nastiness and warm-hearted playfulness” . E xpect plenty of live music, clowning, humour – and to see the F actory transformed into a magical winter woodland. See page 28 f or more on ‘ The L ost Present’, showing at the TF ’s sister space The Brewery.

Bristol Hippodrome’s ‘ Aladdin’ (7 D ec-6 J an) promises a magical carpet ride complete with genies by the lamp-load, side-splitting comedy and bags of family fun. And Bristol O ld V ic’s ‘ Peter Pan’ is already underway and showing until 19 J an. D own in the Studio, meanwhile, children aged 3- 6 – a nd, indeed, anyone who loves a good nursery rhyme – should make a beeline for ‘ Hey D iddle D iddle’

TASTE CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL After a successful debut back in the spring, Bristol’s Chocolate Festival returns for a pre-Chrimbo stint at Quakers Friars. Over the weekend of 14-16 December, you’ll be able to sample the delights of Britain’s best chocolatiers, meet artisan producers and stock up on chocolatey gifts.

Admission free.

MORE festivalchocolate. co.uk/festivals/bristol/

(28 N ov-5 J an), a kind of C hristmas playground featuring games, songs and seasonal surprises based around ‘ Incy Wincy Spider’, ‘ L ittle Bo Peep’, ‘ Humpty D umpty’ and other classics of the genre.

M ore: t obaccof actorytheatre.com , bristolhippodr om e.org.uk,br istololdv ic.org.uk

C lifton’s L ido has launched a range of gorgeous pampering products so you can recreate the spa experience at home. The range is made with the purest blend of essential oils, contains no animal products or nasties like PE Gs, D E A or parabens, and is tested on husbands, wives, partners and friends – never on animals. Prices range from £ 1 2 .5 0 to £ 1 6 and all products are available to buy at L ido. M ore: lid obristol.com

MEET NADEEM AKHTAR Executive Chef at Filini Bar & Restaurant Nadeem Akhtar began his career in Karachi, Pakistan in 1987 at the Ramadan Hotel, because “I loved to eat so I thought it would be the perfect job for me”.

He describes his signature style as “simple, seasonal, good-looking and easy to adopt in any house kitchen”.

Akhtar’s favourite tipple is “healthy water” and his guilty pleasure is vanilla ice cream covered with milk chocolate and nuts. “If you are looking for fresh, homemade Italian food to enjoy in a relaxed atmosphere, then Filini is definitely for you.”

MORE

filinirestaurant.com/ restaurantbristol

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26/11/2012 14:05

Do of age In the 1 8 5 0 s the city’s brightest engineers came up with an idea to turn the Avon into one enormous oating har our. They called it ‘ dockisation’, and now the idea is being considered once again. E ugen e B yrn e reports

You’ve heard of the Severn Barrage: the idea people have een proposing since ictorian times and is now back on the agenda once more. h, ut have you heard of the von arrage t s a thing people proposed in ictorian times and it s now ack on the agenda once more too. t s uite possi le that in years time or less there will e some sort of permanent or movea le arrier across the River von, close to where it enters the ristol hannel. t could serve as a road rail transport link and or a means of generating electricity and or a way of turning the river into a giant leisure facility. n themselves, these are not necessarily good reasons to go to the e pense of uilding a dam at ill or therea outs . ut if, in the coming years, sea levels continue to rise, and there are more extreme weather events, then some sort of arrier will e needed to protect ristol from oods.

VICTORIAN PRIORITIES

This is an idea with a long pedigree, though the ictorians had very different priorities. y the th century the port of ristol s sixteen

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position at the end of a long and winding tidal river had ecome a huge pro lem. s ships grew bigger, the danger of running aground on the shifting mudbanks increased dramatically. The very iggest ships had to wait for especially high tides to e sure of getting in or out of ristol unscathed. o when, for e ample, runel s ss Great ritain left in , she would never return to ristol again under her own power. few years later, the ss emerara, the second largest ship uilt in ristol up to that date, grounded and broke her back on the von on her maiden voyage. replica of her figurehead is in the city centre on the wall of the uilding ne t to the Hippodrome. There were other, similar disasters in later years that not only disrupted the port s usiness, ut served as the worst possi le pu licity. ith the enefit of hindsight, the o vious solution was to uild a new port on the ristol hannel coast. This, of course, is e actly what happened, with a dock opening at Portishead in the 1860s , and the vonmouth dock opening in . continued on page 18…

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ock ges Artist’s impression from Business West’s Bristol 2050 document, ‘High in Hope’.

View of the hypothetical Avon “linear water park” looking towards a remodelled Cumberland Basin (courtesy of Alec French Architects).

Above: if sea levels continue to rise, we will need some sort of barrier to protect Bristol from floods

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A RADICAL SOLUTION

Bristol’s city fathers, however, were also transfi ed y a different and more radical solution, which ecame known as dockisation . The idea was to turn the whole tidal von from the centre of ristol all the way to the hannel coast into one immense oating har our, with a dam at or near the coast, and a system of locks for ships to enter and leave. t was a typically ictorian engineering solution, and a succession of proposals were eing seriously considered from the late s onwards.

Yet dockising the von would have een a huge technical challenge there was much more to it than simply uilding a dam and some locks.

There were all sorts of issues in preventing the new dock from silting up, and in ensuring that the city would still e drained properly. ristol s sewage was simply ushed, untreated, into the river at several points from etham eir to vonmouth. The tidal river carried most of this sewage away, ut an enclosed dock would not, so a massive new sewerage system would e needed. nother ma or worry was that without the scouring effect of the river, the sea at the mouth of the von might silt up. amming the von might well make the hannel impassa le to large ships, so that they would not e a le to get into the new dockised river anyway.

gain and again the city s great and good mulled it over, commissioning plans and engineers reports and costings, and again and again they lanched at the price. The last occasion it was a serious agenda item was in , y which time the total cost, new sewers and all, was an estimated . million. This was at a time when a skilled worker might earn to a year. However you try to translate the sum into modern values, you can certainly say that the cost would have een astronomical, and there was no guarantee it would even work.

The council opted to uild on the facilities that were there already at vonmouth instead.

The new Royal Edward ock opened in and in its time was one of the most advanced facilities in the world. ockisation of the von was never mentioned again. ot for years anyway...

BRISTOL 2050 VISION

ate in , local usiness organisation usiness est pu lished its ristol vision , a set of ideas for how the city might look in years time. t included several suggestions, including a comprehensive network of footpaths and cycle paths, dramatically improved pu lic transport, a massive remodelling of the um erland asin area and an von arrage close to the ridge at vonmouth.

This arrage would generate electricity, ut it would also turn the von into a linear water park , a huge leisure facility.

The ristol document was never intended as a lueprint for the future it was

ith sea levels rising and higher tides and ows coming down the river, the studies suggest that we could have much more fre uent ood events in ristol. f this is the case, then ultimately a arrier of some sort will e necessary lf erry meant to encourage local de ate a out how ristol will face up to the challenges of the coming decades. s it happens, though, we may well end up needing a arrage at or near the mouth of the river anyway. lf erry, an e perienced consultant engineer who contri uted to the ristol vision, e plains ith sea levels rising and higher tides and ows coming down the river, the studies suggest that we could have much more fre uent ood events in ristol. f this is the case, then ultimately a arrier of some sort will e necessary. hether this is a permanent fi ed arrier, or a rising gate like the Thames arrier, is another matter. e don t know yet, and studies of the various issues involved will have to e carried out.

The council is pushing forward with investigations and studies, and thinking a out the things we need to understand. There are

This pic: Studies suggest we could have much more frequent flood events in Bristol, says expert Alf Perry. Inset: 19th century proposals for improving Bristol’s harbour. Top right: In the 19th century the ss Demerara ran aground in Bristol on her maiden voyage. Far right: a replica of the ships’s figurehead.

Bottom right: Lapwings call the Avon Gorge home eighteen

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effects on wildlife to take into consideration, and the possible effects on – or the creation of – microclimates, for example. These are all very serious questions and we need to answer them. I think there will still be a need to have variations in the river level.”

CONSERVATION CONCERNS

f we have a fi ed arrage, then the linear water park suggested in the ristol vision could e developed, with oating and fishing in the crystal clear waters (it’s assumed the water wouldn’t be brown anymore if it wasn’t moving . t would also open up areas around it to housing and other developments.

O nce this structure, whatever form it takes, is seriously on the agenda, the de ate is going to be lively. While our V ictorian forebears worried about practicalities and costs, conservation will e the ig issue this time around. hat will happen, for instance, to the salt marsh at Horseshoe end hat a out the wading irds who feed in the mud ats along the von The Gorge and alley feature some designated ites of pecial cientific nterest, and as we always proudly tell our visitors – it is home to some extremely rare and even unique plant species. avid edge, who lives in toke ishop and has een active in past campaigns to preserve the natural eauty of the area, says The von

Gorge, remarka ly given its pro imity to one of England s largest cities, remains a truly wild place. for one value that greatly, and the designations suggest that odies with more knowledge and clout agree.

The von Gorge and alley are at the centre of a comple of highly protected landscapes and wildlife habitats. The bottom line is do we want to make that into a development one for oaties and office dwellers don t think it would e the right thing ... raisa le barrier like the Thames one seems like the most appropriate e pedient to mitigate against the conse uences of climate change. s in ictorian times, such a scheme would raise uestions that are difficult to answer. local geomorphologist hipshape spoke to says that even comparatively small structures can have huge conse uences on the surrounding area. e don t fully understand the movement of sediment, water and tidal systems on a large scale, she says.

F ew V ictorians would have been bothered a out the effects of docksing the von on the local environment. Though y the early s people were vigorously campaigning against the scars that uarrying had left on the von Gorge landscape to this day, ut that s another story.

The V ictorians were simply worried about the cost. lf erry says that may not e such an issue this time around ig its of civil engineering like this are not that e pensive. t might e a illion pound pro ect, ut not a illion pound project. This really isn’t very much when you consider the cost of damage that could e done to ristol y ooding. s T he A v on B arrage f orm s p art of B ristol 2 0 5 0 ’ s 1 0 - p oin t p lan . F or the com p lete list, v isit www.bristol2 0 5 0 .co.uk/ ten - p oin t- p lan .htm l

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It’s a fact!

1.5 The von Gorge in figures

The length in miles of the Gorge from ristol city centre to vonmouth

700

24 Its width in feet at the uspension ridge

The number of rare plant species that call the Gorge home

384 The total area in acres that is protected as a ite of pecial cientific nterest

nineteen

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harbourside map

Bristol Harbourside C ity Sightseeing Bristol owner and founder W arwickH ulm e shares his six favourite Bristol destinations… and how to get there by bus 1 COMPASS POINT

A very peaceful place that very few people know about. It’s near E ntrance L ock, tucked under the yover and with views down the Gorge and to the Suspension Bridge. There is a barbecue, seating and there was an orb sculpture, which has fallen into the mud – it’d e great to find out who owns it and have it recovered and put back in its rightful place!

N earest stop: C loset oSt op5–C reate Centre/Records Office 2 COFFEE AT RADISSON BLU

This is right on our main stop. The coffee here is great tasting and great value – only £1 for a take away. My drivers, guides and I are always refuelling here when we’re working on the tour. Their coffee makes me feel human in the morning! V ery friendly staff in there, and an interesting mix of nationalities too. N earest stop: St op1–B roadQ uay 3 ST JOHN’S ON THE ARCH

This is the water conduit that you see evidence of as it runs from Brandon Hill beneath the pavement on Park Street. It is now buried among the ‘ See N o E vil’ street art ut is a significant monument it was once the only water source for the city. Its historical significance needs highlighting, as it is a sadly neglected piece of Bristol history.

N earest stop: St op14–Q uaySt reet

4 BATHURST BASIN

This is my favourite part of the harbour! I love boats, and I love the triangular walk around here. It’s a place I’d love to live. I’m very excited by the redevelopment of the General Hospital that has now been granted planning permission, and look forward to seeing the hospital returned to its former glory. N earest stop: St op21–P rinc eSt reet 5 RAILWAY TUNNEL UNDER ST MARY REDCLIFFE

This is a touch of bizarre, hidden Bristol! You can look down into the tunnel by going through the graveyard to the back of the church. The tunnel runs to the O strich but used to run from Temple Meads to the dockside railway. N earest stop: S top 2 0 – R am ad a P laz a 6 JONNY BALL LANE ( behin d H otel D u V in ) This hidden gem connects L ewins Mead with St Michaels Hill. There are a number of street art paintings along the walk and it’s like a secret passageway. N earest stop: S top 1 4 – Q uay S treet

Watershed – multimedia arts

O urne w‘ C hristm asL ightsandI llum inat ions T ours’ ar es tartingonSat 1D ec–r unni ng eachSat unt ilC hristm asat 4pm .T icketpr ice inc lude sadi scount edhot dr ink andm inc e pi e/ cookieat R adi ssonB luandf reet rav elal l day t hene x tday ( Sunday ) . A dul ts£10( with af reec hild) .M ore: c itysightseeingbr istol. co.uk/ publ ic- trips / tickets/ php

Za Za Bazaar – global food

Bristol Aquarium – huge fun

Grain Barge – great views

Brunel’s ss Great Britain (for Spike Island)

Mardyke

CROSS HARBOUR FERRY

Pump House (for Suspension Bridge)

Nova Scotia (for Create Centre, and Tobacco Factory)

At-Bristol – interactive science

Bristol Packet HQ

The Cottage Brunel’s ss Great Britain Mud Dock Deli – good value

Spike Island – creative hub twenty

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27/11/2012 11:34

Turn to the Shipshape directory on page 32 for opening times, offers and more on all of the destinations highlighted on this map

harbourside map

OFFERS WINTER WARMERS Za Za Bazaar Book your Xmas party and enjoy a free glass of mulled wine and Christmas crackers alongside a range of seasonal specialities from around the world. Turn to p37.

Foyles – fantastic bookshop

Colston Hall – landmark

Castle Park (for Cabot Circus, Broadmead)

Glassboat From 9 January 2013, you can enjoy a two-course lunch at Glassboat for just £10 (or three courses for £12). Offer available Monday to Friday. Turn to p34.

The Shakespeare Tavern Collect vouchers at the Shakespeare throughout December to redeem against drinks offers running in January. Turn to p36.

Grain Barge Head to Grain Barge on Hotwell Road to make the most of their Wednesday night offer: get a free pint when you order a pie.

Turn to p34.

No.1 Harbourside – ethical Glassboat – fantastic views

City Centre (for Colston Hall, Cathedral, Park St and main bus routes)

Spyglass – barbecue boat

Welsh Back (for Old Vic)

Temple Quay (for Temple Meads train station)

bal food

The Apple

Tourist Information Centre

Namaskar – modern Indian

Shakespeare Tavern – cosy

Bordeaux Quay

Architecture Centre Severnshed

nce

Thekla riverstation Myristica – fine Indian dining

The Ostrich

Mud Dock – bites and bikes

CITY SIGHTSEEING Fancy seeing our fair city from the vantage point of an open-top bus? City Sightseeing Bristol runs tours of the city’s most historic districts in its distinctive red double-decker buses, with a team of friendly and expert commentators to give you the lowdown on Bristol’s eventful past. Tours run daily until September. They last 75 minutes, but you can hop on and off as you please. Harbourside stops include Create, Baltic Wharf, Brunel’s ss Great Britain, At-Bristol, Prince Street, Bristol Bridge, Welsh Back and Arnolfini. CSB is now running ace-sounding pirate and storytelling bus trips for families. With a bus/boat combo two-day ticket, one child travels free with a fare-paying adult.

MORE:

M Shed – must-visit museum

citysightseeingbristol.co.uk

Arnolfini – arts centre Shipshape

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26/11/2012 16:42

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Magic, mi and m Music venue Thekla has hosted countless music stars, from Roni Size to Jessie J. Far right: former owners Vivian Stanshall and Pamela ‘Ki’ Longfellow, who sailed the former freighter from Sunderland to Bristol in the early 1980s twenty-two

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mischief d madness S tep hen D alton reveals the remarkable history of Thekla, the German-engineered cargo freighter-turned-nightclub that cult singer-songwriter V ivian Stanshall used to call home

Almost 30 ye ars ago, a showboat laden with magic, mischief and madness sailed into Bristol harbour, and never left. N ow berthed permanently against the Mud D ock, Thekla has been a local landmark for decades: 650 tonnes of solid nautical engineering, 180 f eet long and 30 f eet wide, and said to be still haunted by the ghosts of long-dead sailors.

Thekla is best known today as a late-night club and launch pad for countless music stars – from local heroes like Massive Attack and R oni Size to internationally renowned talents including Pete D oherty, J essie J and Mumford and Sons. Around the turn of the new millennium, she even acquired an iconic skeleton stencil by guerrilla artist Banksy on her west-facing port side, the ultimate badge of Bristolian pride.

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CRAZY, COLOURFUL STORY

But few know the crazy, colourful story behind this eccentric addition to Bristol’s rich cultural fabric. Built in Germany in , Thekla spent her first two decades as a cargo freighter carrying timber across the Baltic Sea. Afterwards, she might easily have rusted away in some far ung scrapyard if her destiny had not become entangled with V ictor ‘ V ivian’ Stanshall, the musician, painter, writer, tormented genius and thoroughly English surrealist who first came to fame in the 1960s fronting madcap musical comedy group The Bonzo D og D oo-D ah Band.

A friend of rock legends like Paul McC artney, Pete Townshend, K eith Moon and Steve Winwood, Stanshall went on to

post-Bonzos celebrity with a guest appearance on ike ldfield s phenomenally successful Tubular Bells album and his much-loved monologues in the guise of the rum-soaked aristocrat, Sir Henry R awlinson. But even if this poetic maverick was the creative catalyst, credit for sailing Thekla to Bristol goes entirely to his second wife, the American novelist Pamela ‘ K i’ L ongfellow. In late 1982, K i conceived the romantic fantasy of a oating theatre, restaurant and artists’ studio where both of them could work, play and raise their young daughter, Silky. continued on page 25... twenty-three

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R elations between the couple had become strained, largely thanks to V ivian’s heavy dependency on alcohol and V alium. K i was not only salvaging a boat but also a marriage, and maybe even saving his life in the process.

She found Thekla in Sunderland, where it had been rotting for years. Buying the rusty old husk with £ 1 5 ,0 0 0 from the governmentbacked Small F irms L oan Guarantee scheme, K i and her team then spent months renovating her to seaworthy status.

JUST DANDY

In choosing a permanent dockside home, K i and V ivian selected Bristol almost at random. “ F or one thing, ristol had what looked like a terrific waterfront,” she explains. “ F or another, V ivian and the Bonzos had played there and he remembered rather liking the place. And lastly, what did I know?

It sounded just dandy to me.” fter refitting and repainting Thekla, i renamed her oating pleasure palace the ld rofanity how oat. n uly , The ld Pro began its six-day journey south and west, from the N orth Sea to the Bristol C hannel, then up the evern and von rivers nautical miles in total. Without ballast, registration or insurance, the voyage was illegal and potentially lethal, but passed without major problems.

Bristol C ity C ouncil welcomed these modern-day pirates with open arms, even inviting them to choose their own dockside erth. h, what innocent days,” K i recalls. “ There was no opposition from officialdom ecause not one of them had a clue what was about to descend upon their city. And not one envisioned all the laws we’d break. Being a ship, they could enforce none of them.” fficially launched as a venue in uly , the ld rofanity hosted over stage shows over the next two years, including work by students from the near y ld ic. i and ivian also put on poetry, cabaret and comedy nights, subsidised with occasional rock gigs.

This pic: Banksy’s skeleton stencil.

Right: Vivian, Ki and their daughter Silky pictured in front of the Old Profanity Showboat. Bottom: Vivian aboard his ‘floating pleasure palace’, which played host to the likes of Stephen Fry, Tony Slattery and Pete Townshend.

Bandits’ star D avid R appaport, who had a house close to Whiteladies R oad in C lifton at the time, but often preferred to stay over on oard the ld ro. There were also visits and occasional hush-hush performances from famous L ondon friends like Stephen F ry, Tony Slattery and Pete Townshend.

By far the most ambitious project staged on board Thekla was ‘ Stinkfoot’, a sprawling comic opera tailored to the boat’s boomy, roomy metallic innards. Based on one of K i’s unpublished children’s books about a N ew York alley cat, it was expanded by her and V ivian into a three-hour epic of E nglish seaside surrealism. laying a key role as the am oyant narrator Soliquisto, he described Stinkfoot as “ contemporary Gilbert and Sullivan; popular, optimistic, enormously visual” . taged in ecem er , tinkfoot drew healthy crowds and rave reviews. The Bristol E vening Post called it “ a wondrous collection of bizarre characters, eccentric ideas, and at least one Top 1 0 contender among the songs” . The Times noted the length of the ld rofanity oat is cunningly exploited by the marine set... and deserves to be seen in L ondon on dry land at a larger venue” . ronically, y charging a whopping fiver per ticket, K i was secretly hoping Stinkfoot would ankrupt the ld rofanity. fter three years wrestling with managerial duties, motherhood and V ivian’s addiction problems, she was feeling the strain. “ It was carnage on a grand and wondrous scale,” K i says. “ I loved it, hated it, was often too busy doing everything to appreciate it.”

ABANDON SHIP

FAMOUS GUESTS

Meanwhile, the Stanshalls were still using the boat as their family home, studio and art gallery. Among their regular guests was actor and ‘ Time

E ven if Stinkfoot did not quite sink Thekla, it left K i sick and exhausted. n early she a andoned ship, decamping with V ivian and Silky to D avid R appaport’s Bristol house. Half-formed plans to sail the boat across to N ew York C ity were shelved. “ I had an oldfashioned nervous breakdown and ran away,” K i recalls.

With K i now keen to resume her writing career, and V ivian inspired to make music again, they announced the closure of the ld rofanity. This rought a ood of protests from Bristol artists and regulars, which helped extend the boat’s theatrical operations until ugust . The oat then passed through the hands of several owners, who refurbished and relaunched her in the late s as a more conventional music

venue under her original name, Thekla.

V ivian headed back to L ondon, where a rief theatrical revival of tinkfoot ran in , partly financed y tephen ry and rocker eter Gabriel. D isconnected from its authors and its nautical Bristol home, the production fell disastrously at. ivian spent his final years battling alcoholism and depression, but remained a much loved cult figure right up until his untimely death in a house fire in .

Meanwhile, K i began spending much more time back in the U S, launching her career as novelist in with the historical thriller hina Blues’. Her most recent book, the critically acclaimed horror yarn ‘ Houdini Heart’, was published last year.

REFURBED AND REFITTED

Thekla has been extensively refurbished and refitted since its ld rofanity heyday. The current owners, D aybrook House Promotions, repainted the old black-and-white colours in cream and green in , although they were careful to keep the old Banksy stencil intact.

K i laments the boat’s current prosaic role as a rock venue instead of a crazy showboat adrift on a sea of poetry, madness and magical invention. “ I still dream she’s mine at least once a week,” K i admits. “ In every dream, she’s enormous and full of music, real music.

Actors swoop by on high wires.”

K i has only been back to visit Thekla twice since she and ivian umped ship in .

Her most recent visit was in to stage the ‘ Stinkfoot Showcase’, a musical soiree designed to boost interest in a full stage revival.

She remains convinced that the madcap comic opera she wrote on board with her legendary late husband will rise again.

In the meantime, she is writing a memoir and collaborating on a documentary about her Thekla adventures, both called ‘ The L ast Showboat’. “ It’s a surreal dance of mad truths, half-truths, and downright lies,” K i says. “ All of it true.” s F urther in f o: kilon gf ellow.com ; theklabristol.co.uk twenty-five

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feature

F ranc is G reenac re is fond of N eptune, Bristol’s oldest free-standing public statue. But, he says, he deserves our respect as well as our affection

The pot-bellied deity WHO DESIGNED NEPTUNE?

We know who made N eptune, but not who designed him. Parish accounts record payments to ohn Randall for the figure and pedestal of £32.10.

This comparatively modest fee suggests that R andall was the F irst erected in 17 21, N eptune was cast in lead, founder or maker of the statue, not the designer. The entries also tell us that Simon a material that lacks the rigidity of bronze. It E dney made the ‘ Iron Palisades’ or railings can soften causing changes to the outlines of and that J ames Patty laid the Portland stone the statue and the blurring of surface detail. surround. E dney is likely to be related to The resiting of the statue at least six times illiam Edney, maker of the magnificent has not helped. F urthermore, a concrete core, wrought-iron gates within St Mary R edcliffe perhaps added in the 19t h century and long and J ames Patty is J ames Paty I, the earliest since removed, may also have filled him out, seriously distorting his once svelte appearance. of that remarkable Georgian dynasty of Bristol masons, carvers and architects. It is N ot surprisingly, he has been described as a clear that the commissioning of this statue ‘ pot-bellied deity’. was a major undertaking, a precursor to the But with just a little imagination on our part, civic commission, exactly a decade later, of N eptune can be seen as an impressive baroque statue, full of movement with a once fashionable the great equestrian statue of William III by con trap p osto pose – where the upper part of the torso is turned in a different direction to the lower. The movement of the drapery, the ow of his eard and even the hairs in his armpits suggest that this must be the work of a sophisticated sculptor – certainly not the work of a local carver of ships figureheads, as has been suggested.

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This image: Neptune in Church Lane near Temple Church, detail of a watercolour

by G Delamotte, 1825 (BCMAG M2170). Left: The crowned head of Neptune.

Bottom: Neptune, cast by John Randall, 1721, The Centre

R ysbrack in Q ueen Square. The accounts also tell us that the statue was painted, confirming that two surviving watercolours of the 1820s depicting a strikingly esh coloured eptune were historically correct.

POLITICAL ORIGINS

The statue first stood a ove the Temple C onduit in Temple Street, deliberately ornamenting one of Bristol’s precious sources of fresh water. It has long been assumed that N eptune represented Bristol’s proud seafaring associations, but it is likely that there was also a political element behind the commission.

William III, who had crossed the C hannel in the Glorious R evolution to rescue us from the perils of J ames II’s C atholicism, was described as ‘ the saviour from beyond the seas’ and was often symbolically associated with the god of the sea. We know that Q ueen Square’s equestrian statue of William III was a deliberate expression of Bristol’s loyalty to the crown at a time when the threat of a J acobite rebellion was still very real. N eptune may also have represented a similar declaration. Perhaps, in this D iamond J ubilee year, his crown should be gilded once again. s twenty-seven

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feature

Kids’corner L ocal choirs, C hristmas lights, festive fables and family feasts: eight lovely ways to spend the day with your nearest and dearest

1. HEAD TO THE THEATRE

The Tobacco F actory Theatre and its sister studio space, The Brewery, have delivered some real gems of family theatre over the past few C hristmases, and this year’s line-up looks as appetising as ever. While the F actory gives us a folksy, tuneful ‘ Hansel and Gretel’ (see page 14) , the Brewery makes a dash for the wrapping paper with ‘ The L ost Present’ (19 D ec-13 J an), a 50- minute slice of physical comedy set in the N umber O ne L ost Present D epartment. It’s C hristmas time and lots of presents have gone astray. V ic and E d need to do some detective work – and fast – to find a home for all the lost presents efore it’s too late. E xpect much musical mayhem and silly songs performed live by Bristol musical ace K id C arpet. Sounds a hoot. M ore: tobaccof actorytheatre.com 2. A DAY AT THE MUSEUM

Amid all the pre-C hristmas frenzy, Harbourside museum M Shed has a beautifully tranquil treat in store: four consecutive evenings of illuminations and magic around the museum and surrounding Harbourside (19- 2 2 D ec). Warm yourself by the braziers, enjoy a hot drink and mince pie from M Shed café , listen to performances from local choirs in Museum Square and take in the surrounds of the former 1950s dockside building with its historic cranes. The museum and adjoining waterfront will also be lit up with seasonal and historic films, pro ections and animations. M ore: m shed.or g 3. SEE THE CHRISTMAS ILLUMINATIONS

What’s the best way to see the festive illuminations this C hrimbo? Why, from the top of an open-top bus, of course. And this D ecember, C ity Sightseeing Bristol is hosting 90- minute guided tours around the city centre, capturing the seasonal sights of the C hristmas lights, illuminated architecture and twinkly re ections on the Harbourside. R emaining tours take place on Saturdays 8,15 a nd 2 D ecember. twenty-eight

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Tickets (£10 a dult with free child, additional children £5) include a voucher for a hot drink and mince pie or C hristmas cookie at the R adisson Blu hotel. Buses depart 4pm from Broad Q uay, city centre. Advance booking recommended. E vening tours available too: check website for details. M ore: citysightseeingbr istol.co.uk 6. GET CREATIVE 4. HEAR SEASONAL STORIES

The F irst C lass D ining Saloon on board Brunel’s ss Great Britain will be travelling back through time for some frightful festive fables on Monday 10 a nd Tuesday 1 1 D ecember (1 1.30a m and 2.30pm ).

Professional storyteller Sarah Mooney will be telling eerie, cautionary tales with a C hristmas theme, based on extracts from passenger diaries in the Trust’s collection. Mr Brunel will also embrace the festive mood with readings from C harles D ickens’ ‘ A C hristmas C arol’ at 12pm and 2pm on both days. M ore: ssgreatbritain.or g 5. REACH FOR THE STARS

Get your little ones all star-struck this winter with At-Bristol’s specially-designed lanetarium show for under fives weekends, 2pm ). All tiny explorers are invited to an interactive story session, filled with e citing sights and sounds – perfect for introducing younger adventurers to the wonders of the night sky. M ore: at - bristol.org.uk

Illustrator Imogen Harvey-L ewis will be teaching creative types aged seven and over the simple skill of willow papier-mâ ché sculpture in this family-friendly workshop.

You’ll be making beautiful owl structures that can either hang or swoop through your home: all materials are provided, but remember to wear messy clothes and be prepared to get sticky on Monday 1 8 F ebruary, 1 0 am-1 2 pm. M ore: rwa.org.uk 7. FILL YOUR BELLIES

Harbourside eaterie Z a Z a Bazaar manages to cram several of the world’s best-loved cuisines under their ample roof – and this C hristmas they’ve even managed to cream in some seasonal specialities too. F estive dishes that should strike a chord with all the family include pigs in blankets and – unusual, this, but we’re kinda liking it – a festive turkey and chestnut pizza. And remember that kids aged 0 -4 eat for free, while 5 -1 1 s are half price. M ore: z az abaz aar.com 8. HIT THE DANCEFLOOR

The next instalment of At-Bristol’s brilliant ‘ Toddler Takeover’ sessions – when the building is specially geared up to entertain under fives – is earmarked for Thursday 1 7 and F riday 1 8 J anuary. This one will feature the Beautiful Bug Ball – a disco for toddlers (cute!), complete with music, lights and bubbles. L ittle ones (and chaperones) can get creative during the day and make elements of their creature costumes, then throw some shapes on the dance oor – don’t forget to request your favourite songs from the D J .

M ore: at- bristol.org.uk s Shipshape

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er This pic: At-Bristol’s Planetarium inspires junior stargazers. Left: The Lost Present is a slice of physical comedy featuring Kid Carpet (below).

Foyles recommends F estive picks for younger readers as chosen by the staff at fabulous bookshop F oyles B ristol BEST FOR FANS OF THE SURREAL This Moose Belongs To Me

by Oliver Jeffers, £10.99 The latest surreal masterpiece from the writer behind the beautiful ‘Lost and Found’ and other quirky children’s faves. Wilfred is a little boy with rules who meets a moose, whom he names Marcel. But Wilfred has decided that Marcel must abide by certain rules if they are to get along. Wonderfully funny and slightly wacky, this beautiful picture book will teach you and the kids a lot about life and sharing.

BEST FOR BEAUTY (AND A LITTLE BEASTLINESS) Beauty and the Beast

by Ursula Jones and Sarah Gibb, £11.99 This enchanting retelling of the classic story is a thing of elegance and beauty. With amazing illustrations by Sarah Gibb, the magic of this timeless fairy tale is captured exquisitely. There’s also a glint of humour from Beauty’s snobby sisters, giving you a

glimpse into a home life of imperfections and jealousy. Currently, our copies are all signed editions, but they’ll go fast!

BEST FOR FANS OF THE GROTESQUE Ratburger

by David Walliams, £12.99 If your kids don’t especially enjoy reading, then pass them a book by David Walliams and watch their love of reading grow!

One half of ‘Little Britain’ he may be, but he’s also one of the greatest storytellers of recent years – many are calling him ‘the new Roald Dahl’. His latest will keep you and your little ones screaming with laughter the whole way through. It’s the story of a little girl called Zoe, whose stepmother Sheila is so lazy she gets Zoe to pick her nose for her. The school bully is also making her life a misery – and now an evil burger man is after her pet rat. Walliams has brought his characters fantastically to life with a very wacky plot to keep you entertained and a bad guy to boo at!

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26/11/2012 16:38

feature

RAVENS

Clockwise from this picture: the Floating Harbour is often the last water body to freeze and attracts less common water birds; mute swans can be seen (and heard) on Welsh Back; ravens can be seen rolling and playing in the skies; a cormorant; wildlife expert Ed Drewitt

It may seem too cold to think about spring, but local ravens will be laying eggs by the end of F ebruary. These huge crowlike birds can be seen in pairs, rolling and playing in the sky – part of their courtship display. O ccasionally they make nests in trees around the harbour; they even tried nesting on one of M Shed’s cranes a few years ago. A pair nests annually in the Avon Gorge, lining their stick nest with soft hair from dogs and deer. They often y over the harbour, perching on tall buildings and have an unmistakable deep croaking call.

CORMORANTS

It is hard to miss the cormorants during the winter months – the usually ice-free harbour means these large, black diving birds can catch plenty of food. It is not unusual to see a cormorant trying to swallow a huge fish you can often see it moving down the bird’s neck. C ormorants nest on islands in the Severn E stuary and during the winter months spend time around the F loating Harbour and the C hew V alley. Along the R iver Avon near Shirehampton, they have a favourite set of oak trees where they like to perch and digest their fishy food.

Wild winter The Harbourside may seem rather empty during the winter months but, if you’re willing to brave the weather, a stroll along the docks can still reveal plenty of life. By E dD rewitt

MISTLETOE

N ow the leaves have fallen off the trees, you may notice large, green balls of mistletoe in some trees, especially lime. U p close, they are a mass of eshy green leaves with white, sticky berries, loved by many woodland birds such as blackcaps and mistle thrushes. The mistletoe is a parasite, growing from a tree’s branch and sapping water and food from the tree.

have been pushed off frozen lakes and ponds further afield.

Watch out for great crested grebes, coots and tufted ducks – rarely seen in the harbour.

LADYBIRDS

O n warm, sunny winter days you may notice ladybirds on the inside of windows in boats and buildings –

they are likely to be the alien species, the harlequin ladybird, which originates from Asia. It comes in various combinations of red, black and orange and usually has orange or brown legs. In the autumn they come indoors and hibernate – central heating and sunshine can lure them out early.

MUTE SWANS

FROZEN HARBOUR

In recent years, the F loating Harbour has partially frozen, making it difficult for oats to move around. D espite this, the warmer city temperatures mean that it is often the last water body to freeze around the region and attracts less common water birds, which Shipshape

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The unmistaka le white mute swans ock to Welsh Back during the winter months. This part of the harbour acts as no man’s land for these birds – swans are normally very territorial but here there is a truce, and swans that are a year to three years old hang out here for a quieter life before they leave one spring to nest somewhere in the west. D espite their name, the mute swans can often be heard grunting and whistling. s thirty-one

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Shipshape directory

The Shipshape Directory F ind all the information you need to know about Shi ps hape ’s friends across the Harbourside, from contact details to exclusive offers and more…

ARNOLFINI CENTRE FOR CONTEMPORARY ARTS 16 Narrow Quay, BS1 4QA 0117 917 2300/01, arnolfini.org.uk Opening hours: exhibition spaces: Tue-Sun 11am-6pm & bank holidays; bookshop: Tue 11am-6pm, Wed-Sat 11am-8pm, Sun 11am-7pm; café bar: Daily from 10am

AT-BRISTOL SCIENCE CENTRE Anchor Road, Harbourside, BS1 5DB 0845 345 1235, at-bristol.org.uk Opening hours: weekends and holidays 10am-6pm; weekdays during term-time 10am-5pm. Open every day except 24-26 Dec. Urban Stargazing: £7 adults, £6 children, members and concessions. To book tickets, call 0845 345 1235 Mon-Fri 9am-5pm (excluding bank holidays)

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Based at the heart of Bristol’s Harbourside, in a fantastic waterside location, Arnolfini is one of Europe’s leading centres for the contemporary arts. Arnolfini features a regularly changing programme, presenting visual art, live art and performance, dance, music, cinema, poetry and literature events alongside a busy education programme of tours and talks. It also boasts one of the best arts bookshops in the country and a stylish, lively café bar featuring an Italian-inspired and children’s menu. Free admission to the gallery spaces.

With hundreds of exhibits, explosive science shows and a Planetarium, At-Bristol is one of the UK’s most exciting interactive science centres!

This Valentine’s Day, adults are invited to a very special after-hours event where they can explore the chemistry of the human body. Under-fives, meanwhile, will be let loose at the much-loved Toddler Takeover day, which has been earmarked for 17 and 18 January. This instalment features a Beautiful Bug Ball, where toddlers are encouraged to make their own costume to wear to the disco later on. Visit at-bristol.org.uk for more.

THE TODDLER TAKEOVER RETURNS! 17&18 JAN

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Shipshape directory

Anchor Road, BS1 5TT 0117 929 8929, bristolaquarium.co.uk Autumn opening times: 10am-5pm (last entry at 4pm).Winter opening times (5 Nov-8 Feb): 10am-4pm (last entry at 3pm). Displays subject to change.

BRUNEL’S ss GREAT BRITAIN Great Western Dockyard, BS1 6TY 0117 926 0680, ssgreatbritain.org Opening hours: from 10am. Closing times are seasonal, with last ticket sales one hour before closing.

Open every day except 24 and 25 Dec, plus second Mon in Jan.

CITY SIGHTSEEING Information Hotline: 07425 788123 9am-5pm seven days a week, citysightseeingbristol.co.uk Buy tickets online: citysightseeingbristol. co.uk/timetabled-service/tickets.php Tel: 01930 830050

COLSTON HALL Colston Street, BS1 5AR 0117 922 3686, colstonhall.org Opening hours: Box Office: Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; H Bar Café: Mon-Sat 8am-late, Sun 9am-10pm when there is an evening show; H Bar Bistro: Wed-Sat and when there is an evening show. Lunch: Wed-Fri 12-2.30pm, dinner: Tue-Sat 5-10pm

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Enjoy the ultimate undersea safari at Bristol Aquarium.

There’s a world of incredible aquatic adventure just waiting to be discovered with over 40 amazing displays, two underwater walk-through tunnels and spectacular open-top tanks to explore. Encounter thousands of amazing sea creatures, from tropical sharks and stingrays to a giant octopus and elegant seahorses. Highlights include a life-size recreation of a sunken ship (home to jellyfish, native sharks and rays), a Bristol harbour scene complete with murals, and a ‘walk-in’ seahorse display. Don’t miss the stunning Amazon displays in the giant botanical glasshouse!

Descend under the glass ‘sea’ and step back in time in the Dockyard Museum! See, hear, touch and smell what life was like for Victorian passengers on board Brunel’s ss Great Britain.

There’s plenty to do to keep everyone entertained at this multi award-winning attraction. In 2012, Brunel’s ss Great Britain invites you to explore the new displays, including the First Class Dining Saloon and dressing up. Tickets give free unlimited return visits for a year. Special themed events include Halloween ghost tours and Christmas lunches. Go to ssgreatbritain.org/whatson.

PIC: MARTYN POYNOR

BRISTOL AQUARIUM

Hop on one of the bright red City Sightseeing buses for an entertaining and illuminative tour with one of their popular, local guides. Share their passion for this diverse city; hear tales of pirates and princes, discover churches, the breathtaking Avon Gorge, street art and the exciting Harbourside. Hop On and Hop Off; visit Brunel’s ss Great Britain, Bristol Zoo, Clifton Village and much more! 1, 2 and 3 Day tickets, plus a 2 Day Bus/Boat Combo ticket – all available online. Buses operate daily every 30, 45 or 90 minutes. Tickets also provide discounts at many attractions and eateries.

Colston Hall is Bristol’s premier live music venue and has seen the likes of the Manic Street Preachers, London Symphony Orchestra, Penguin Café, Staff Benda Bilili and Ricky Gervais perform in the past year. The venue also offers plenty of eating and drinking options: H Bar Café serves a variety of wines, beers, cocktails, spirits and hot drinks, with its tasty Mediterranean food earning the café a spot in The Guardian’s top 10 Bristol budget eateries. For a more formal experience, there’s H Bar Restaurant with its mouthwatering mix of Latin American and Mediterranean flavours.

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Shipshape directory

FOYLES BOOKSHOP 6 Quakers Friars, Philadelphia St, Cabot Circus, BS1 3BU cabotcircus@foyles.co.uk 0117 376 3975 foyles.co.uk Opening hours: Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 11am-5pm

FILINI BAR AND RESTAURANT The Radisson Blu Hotel Bristol Broad Quay, BS14BY 0117 934 9500, info.bristol@radissonblu.com filinibristol.co.uk Opening hours: lunch: Mon-Sat 12-2pm; dinner: Mon-Sat 5.30-9.30pm (last orders at 9.30pm), Sun 12.30-2.30pm

GLASSBOAT Welsh Back, BS1 4SB 0117 929 0704, glassboat.co.uk Opening hours: lunch: Tue-Fri 12-2.30pm; sinner: Mon-Sat 5.30–10pm; Sunday lunch: 12–4pm £10 2-COURSE LUNCH Lunch at Glassboat offers fantastic value without compromising on the quality of ingredients used. £10 – 2 course, £12 – 3 course lunch, Monday to Friday. Available from 9 January 2013

GRAIN BARGE

Mardyke Wharf, Hotwell Road, BS8 4RU 0117 929 9347, hello@grainbarge.com grainbarge.co.uk Opening hours: Mon-Thu 12-11pm; Fri-Sat 12-11.30pm; Sun 12-11pm

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Independent booksellers Foyles have settled into their new home in Quakers Friars, Cabot Circus – their first and only shop outside London. Foyles offer the widest possible range of books, so whether you’re looking for the latest best-seller or something a little more unusual, their expert, local staff will be able to help. On the second floor you’ll find more to read plus a cosy events and exhibitions space, which hosts a regular programme of talks, concerts and signings. Visit their website for more information or drop in and say hello!

This stylish modern Italian restaurant and bar, set inside the elegant Radisson Blu hotel, offers the very best in contemporary, seasonal and fresh Italian cuisine. Flavour is the watchword on the menu, which uses a judicious mix of locally sourced produce and the best ingredients from Italy’s vast natural larder.

Another strong suit is the restaurant’s impressive wine selection, with up to 360 bottles sourced from Italy’s various winemaking regions. Elegant wooden floorboards, huge picture windows and a feature glass staircase ensure that all that delicious food and wine is served in a suitably chic setting.

Located on the floating harbour in the heart of Bristol, Glassboat affords spectacular views of the city: bridges, churches and swans on the water. Whatever the celebration, small or large, with work or with loved ones, Glassboat remains the considered waterside restaurant of choice for Bristolians. Glassboat uses only the best local suppliers and cooks classic dishes simply: our own gravadlax, partridges, goose and sherry trifle will all feature this season. Groups of up to 40 can be accommodated on the lower deck, the ideal private space for your event.

With its panoramic views, great food and events, the Grain Barge is without doubt one of the harbour’s top venues. Find live music every Friday night in the hold bar showcasing the best in local music, a quiz night on Mondays, ‘Pie and a Pint’ on Wednesdays and steak night on Thursdays. Plus there are regular slow food dating evenings with five-course meals.

The Grain Barge is a great location for Christmas parties and will be hosting a fabulous New Year’s Eve Party. Their annual Winter Beer Festival with Bristol Beer Factory will be taking place on 25 and 26 January. See website for more details.

OFFER £10 2-COURSE LUNCH

FREE PINT WITH A PIE ON WEDS! Shipshape

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Shipshape directory

LIDO RESTAURANT, SPA & POOL

Oakfield Place, BS8 2BJ 0117 933 9530, lidobristol.com Opening hours: restaurant: 12-3pm and 6-10pm, closed Sun evening; spa: 7am-10pm; poolside bar: Mon-Sat from 8am, Sun from 9am

M SHED Princes Wharf, Wapping Rd, BS1 4RN 0117 352 6600, info@mshed.org, mshed.org Opening hours: Tue-Fri 10am-5pm; closed Mon (except bank holidays); Sat, Sun and bank holidays: 10am-6pm Enjoy harbourside views from the cafe and roof terrace, pop by the shop for some novelty gifts ideas and don’t miss M Shed’s latest exhibition Real and Imagined Lives running until 6 Jan.

MUD DOCK CYCLEWORKS & CAFÉ 40 The Grove, BS1 4RB 0117 934 9734 (café), 0117 929 2151 (cycleworks), mail@mud-dock.co.uk, mud-dock.com Café opening hours: Sun-Mon 10am-5pm; Tue-Thu 10am-10pm; Fri 10am-11pm; Sat 9am-11pm.

Cycleworks: Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm, Sat 9am-6pm

MUD DOCK DELI

Cumberland Road, BS1 6DS 0117 929 2141, deli@mud-dock.co.uk, mud-dock.com Winter opening hours: Mon-Fri 8am-6pm; Sat 9am-7pm; Sun 9am-6pm Take-away lunch bag available for £4.

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The Lido is a veritable oasis tucked within a courtyard of Georgian terraces in the back streets of Clifton. It is a unique location where chef Freddy Bird presides over two floors of poolside dining. Feast on woodroasted scallops, lamb or venison in the first floor restaurant or enjoy the outdoor pool and an opportunity to soak up some sun on the terrace. The ground floor bar spills out on to the poolside in suitable weather.

Open for breakfast and afternoon tea from 2.30-5.30pm.

FREE ENTRY EVERY DAY!

Bristol’s newest museum tells the amazing history of Bristol through the stories of people who have helped to shape it. Three galleries – Bristol Places, Bristol People and Bristol Life – offer interactive displays and rich collections of objects. Favourites include a World War II bomb shelter, a double decker bus and an inventory of the city’s many brilliant creations down the ages. Changing exhibitions are displayed in the temporary gallery throughout the year. Turn to page 10 to read all about the Chocolate exhibition launching at M Shed on 2 February.

A hip hang-out for the city’s cyclists since 1994, Mud Dock Café has more than its million-dollar views and gorgeous, rustic decor to thank for its legions of fans. Freshly prepared meals with a Mediterranean twist keep diners sated from sunup to sundown: favourites include the BIG breakfast to start, mushroom and baby spinach gnocchi with Stilton for lunch and the Mud Dock burger (made with locally sourced beef) for dinner. Head downstairs to the Cycleworks to find a range of bikes, secure bike shed, servicing and repairs, workshops, apparel and more.

GIFT BOXES ON SALE NOW!

Mud Dock Café and Cycleworks’ sister establishment launched in late summer, taking up residence in a beautiful 19th-century stone building just behind M Shed. The Deli’s all-day menu is packed with scrumptious delights to eat in or take away for breakfast, lunch and supper, including freshly-baked cakes, pies, scotch eggs, pizza, fish and chips, sandwiches and wraps. Full brunches are served at weekends. Customers on the move can also find a deli on the ground floor selling a variety of produce. Mud Dock Deli is also the perfect venue for private parties of up to 60. thirty-five

26/11/2012 16:24

Shipshape directory

51 Welsh Back, BS1 4AN 0117 927 2277, myristica.co.uk Opening hours: lunch: Mon-Fri 12-2pm; dinner: Mon-Sat 5.30-11.30pm, Sun 5.3010.30pm (last orders at 10pm) CHRISTMAS PARTIES Myristica is now taking bookings for Christmas parties and celebrations – visit myristica.co.uk for details, and offers in the new year.

NAMASKAR LOUNGE Welsh Back, BS1 4RR 0117 929 8276, namaskarlounge.com Opening hours: restaurant: Mon-Thu 1210.30pm, Fri-Sat 12-11pm, Sun 12-10.30pm; lounge bar: Mon-Thu 12-11pm, Fri-Sat 12pm12am, Sun 12-11pm. The restaurant is closed from 3-6pm every day.

COCKTAIL MASTERCLASS Book now for one of our cocktail masterclasses – a great gift idea too!

THE SHAKESPEARE TAVERN

68 Prince Street, BS1 4QD 0117 929 7695 Opening hours: Mon-Thu 11am-11pm, Fri-Sat 11am-12am, Sun 12pm-11pm

SPIKE ISLAND

133 Cumberland Road, BS1 6UX 0117 929 2266, spikeisland.org.uk Opening hours: galleries: Tue-Sun 11am-5pm; café: Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm, Sat and Sun 11am-5pm

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Gazing serenely over Welsh Back, Myristica is one of the highlights of the harbour’s impressive dining landscape. The menu features a range of beautifully crafted dishes from across the Indian subcontinent. Kick off with baby squid deepfried and tossed with bell peppers, chilli flakes and honey, and move on to pista murgh (breast of chicken in a mild cream sauce with ground pistachios and saffron). Then round things off with a luxuriant chocolate samosa dessert and ice cream. Myristica is now taking bookings for the Christmas season – call now to reserve your table!

The food of Mumbai inspires us! From the ingredients and recipes fine-tuned over generations to the mesmerising sight of our skilled Indian master chefs working their magic, our take on Indian food is modern and fresh. The food is exciting, the bar is buzzing, the décor is stunningly elegant and we are passionate about the experience that we offer. Our Christmas menus have something for all tastes at £16.95 for a traditional three-course meal plus coffee and mince pies. Or, for the more adventurous, there is an Indian Christmas menu full of warmth and spice!

This beloved old harbour boozer serves up an appetising mix of traditional dishes and sharing platters, including winter warmers like baked Camembert and slow-cooked pork belly. This Christmas, the Shakespeare is offering two courses for £12.95, and don’t forget to collect vouchers throughout December to make the most of the free drinks offers in January. Behind the bar, find Shakespeare cask ale alongside Golden Hen and Kirin Ichiban. For the latest deals, you can follow the pub on Twitter or Facebook: @shakespearetav, facebook.com/theshakespearetavern

Spike Island is a centre for the production and exhibition of art and design based in an 80,000 square foot former Brooke Bond tea-packing factory. Its year-round public programme features free exhibitions by local, national and international artists, as well as regular talks, events and activities for all. Spike Café is open seven days a week, serving hot and cold drinks, snacks and homemade meals in a relaxed setting overlooking the river.

Spike Island is also a busy working building, home to a range of artists, designers, students, creative businesses and other arts organisations.

PIC: STUART WHIPPS

MYRISTICA

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26/11/2012 16:57

PIC: STUART WHIPPS

Shipshape directory

SPYGLASS

Welsh Back, BS1 4SB 0117 927 7050, spyglassbristol.co.uk Spyglass has a non-reservation policy for groups of fewer than 8. To book a table for 8 or more please contact groups@spyglassbristol.co.uk Opening hours: Re-opens April 2013

TOBACCO FACTORY SUNDAY MARKET Opening hours: every Sun 10am-2.30pm.

Café/bar open for breakfast from 10am. tobaccofactory.com facebook.com/tobaccofactorymarket

WATERSHED

1 Canons Road, BS1 5TX 0117 927 5100, info@watershed.co.uk, watershed.co.uk, dshed.net Opening hours: cafe/bar: Mon 10am-11pm, Tue-Thu 9.30am-11pm, Sat 10am-12am, Sun 10am-10.30pm

ZA ZA BAZAAR Opening hours: dining: 11am-11pm; bar: 11am-1am. Closed Christmas day.

Bristol Harbourside, Canons Road, BS1 5UH (Located next to Pero’s Bridge) 0117 922 0330, ZaZaBazaar.com enquiries@ZaZaBazaar.com facebook.com/ZaZaBazaar @ZaZaBazaar FESTIVE DINNER OFFER Find a festive counter, mulled wine and Christmas crackers from 30 Nov to 24 Dec. There will also be a special 9pm sitting on New Year’s Eve.

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Spyglass, Bristol’s favourite BBQ restaurant, offers delicious, simple, carefully sourced food at great value prices. All of our chicken is free range, our burgers are made with 28-day aged beef and all of our ice cream is made from scratch on the premises. Children can choose from a special Pirates’ Club Menu for only £5.50 and a children’s entertainer is on board most Sundays from 12.30pm. You can also find sangria on tap alongside local ales and ciders, plus great value wine at low prices. We re-open for our 2013 season in April.

BACK IN APRIL 2013

The Sunday market is a cornerstone of the buzzing Southville community, with up to 40 stalls offering locally made bread, home-made cakes, books, records, clothing and more, including a resident bike mechanic and children’s entertainment. The first Sunday of every month features ‘Retroville’, with vintage and retro stalls alongside the regular market. With its welcoming atmosphere and delicious food and drink, the market is a great place to shop and meet up with friends. Christmas markets with over 60 stalls will be taking place on 2, 9, 16 & 23 December, 10am–3pm.

Watershed is the perfect social space on Bristol’s historic Harbourside, showing the best independent films from across the world. With three cinemas to choose from and a welcoming, relaxed café/bar enjoying unique waterside views, it’s the ideal place to meet friends, grab a tasty coffee or drink, enjoy a meal and watch a film. Come and try their Plot to Plate organic menu showcasing the tastes of the South West, or treat yourself to a drink before or after a film in the buzzing bar. For current film and events listings, visit watershed.co.uk.

Za Za Bazaar offers diners a rich variety of global cuisine in a buzzing oriental ‘night market’ environment. It is the UK’s biggest restaurant, with 40 chefs and room for 1,000 diners. There is a guest cuisine each month and something from every corner of the world to sample. With 300 different drinks inspired by five continents, the bar is as adventurous as the cuisine. Find 35 cocktails, spirits, wines and champagne, plus beers from China, India, Portugal and Brazil. From 30 Nov to 24 Dec, there will be a special festive counter plus mulled wine and Christmas crackers at dinner.

ONE PARTY MEMBER EATS FREE! IN GROUPS OF SIX OR MORE

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26/11/2012 16:34

feature

Hi Romany. How are you?

I’m really good – enjoying the autumnal feel at the moment.

When did you launch The Galley and why?

The Galley was launched in May after a search for a kitchen, primarily for my cake business. But after walking into the building I fell in love with the idea of opening it up as a waterside cafe.

Did you particularly want an establishment on the docks?

Yes, I’ve always loved the Harbourside.

We lived in Hotwells for four years and spent lots of time around the docks. It has to be my favourite part of Bristol: the history is fascinating and there is such a diverse mix of interesting people that add character to this area.

I ❤ Harbourside PORTRAIT: (C) JON CRAIG, WWW.JONCRAIG.CO.UK

This issue we talk to with The Galley owner Romany Hazell about her childhood in Hotwells, working on the Bristol Packet and lemon meringue pie cupcakes…

How would you describe The Galley’s signature style of food?

Healthy portions of home-cooked food and delicious farmhouse-style cakes. I really enjoy cooking what’s in season and change my menu accordingly. I’ve been known to be a bit of a feeder so you won’t leave The Galley hungry.

If you could recommend one dish to a new customer, what would that be and why?

I would have to say my lemon meringue pie cupcakes – they are really good, with loads homemade lemon curd gushing out of them.

Is there a strong sense of community among businesses along the waterside?

Yes, definitely. Everyone along Hotwell Road has been really welcoming. We all try to support each other as it is still a difficult time to run a small business.

Do you personally feel a connection to the Harbourside?

I spent part of my childhood in Hotwells.

I’ve seen a lot of changes but it’s still very much retained a lot of character. Some of my fondest memories were playing around in the old sandpits and seeing the large ships roll in and out of the harbour. My aunty and uncle run the Bristol Packet so as I

was growing up I worked on the boats and know the harbour very well. This is another reason I love it so much down here: there is a real sense of community and I’m really happy to be a part of that.

What one thing would significantly improve life around the docks?

More people eating cake!

Aside from The Galley, do you have a favourite place for a bite to eat or a tipple?

You can’t beat the Mardyke for a pint or the Pump House for a meal followed by a stroll around the harbour and some delicious cake to finish.

Do you think we fully appreciate the wonders of the harbour?

I think it’s very easy to take what we have for granted on the Harbourside. As Bristolians we are very lucky to have everything on our doorstep. I love nothing more than jumping on the Tower Belle (left) and taking a trip down the Gorge with my family, or taking the kids to our wonderful museum, the M Shed.

When can we visit you at The Galley?

The Galley is open Tuesday to Sunday and we have just started doing Sunday lunches, which are proving to be a huge success. We also do outside catering and bespoke cakes, available on request. More details are available on our website, www.thegalleybristol.co.uk s

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Shipshape

26/11/2012 16:01

WAPPING WHARF

CAR PARK Cheap City Parking Monday to Friday Up to 1 hour

Saturday 80p

1-2 hours

£1.50

2-4 hours

£3.80

Over 4 hours

£7

Week

£28

Month

£85

Any period

£2.50

Sunday & Bank Holidays Any period

£1.50

Special corporate rates available for 5 cars or more.

Monthly season ticket enquiries: 0207 563 3000

To all our customers, Please note that the car park will remain open and fully operational for at least the next two years whilst we build phase one of the Wapping Wharf Development.

We will keep you informed of progress.

SAT NAV: BS1 4RW www.wappingwharf.co.uk/cheapparking