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Shipshape winter 2010
www.shipshapebristol.co.uk
Celebrating the very best of Bristol’s historic harbourside Trading Places: do more markets make sense?
Interviews
Features
Events
Fuel delivery man Gary Grizzell Bristol Ferry Boat’s Rosie Dee
At-Bristol’s Toddler Takeover Fascinating Finzel’s Reach
Eat Cheese at Glassboat Breuer in Bristol
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Welcome... ...to the winter issue of Shipshape. At the time of going to press, Bristol City Council was concluding its Markets Review, a study into the health of the city’s markets and the desirability of allowing more markets to take place in the centre. Its findings will be hotly anticipated by a number of key local business people who believe that more markets will make for a better Bristol. Mark Sayers dons his fingerless gloves and dives into the debate on page 10. There’s plenty more inside, of course, and at www.shipshapebristol.co.uk. Enjoy!
Trading Places page 10
Inside Arts & events 4 Things to see and do this quarter
Trading places 10 Shipshape looks into the Markets Review
Getting around 16 Harbourside map & ferry guide
Coal porter 18 How Gary Grizzell is keeping us warm this winter
I ❤ Harbourside 21 Rosie Dee from Bristol Ferry Boat Company
Miniature marvels 25 At-Bristol’s Toddler Takeover day
Harbourside directory 26 The very best of the waterside
10 things you never knew… 30 …about Finzels Reach
Pictured clockwise from top: Josh from Hand Picked Shellfish at Corn Street’s Farmers’ Market; The old George Brewery on the Finzels Reach site; ss Great Britain – the book; wide-eyed wonder at Toddler Takeover; Bristol Ferry Boat’s Rosie Dee.
Shipshape Magazine Issue 4, winter. Shipshape is published by The Group of Seven Editorial, design and production: thegroupofseven.co.uk Advertising enquiries: The Clifton Agency: peter.robinson@thecliftonagency.com or 0117 906 4060 Want to get involved in future issues of Shipshape magazine? Call us on 01225 448891 or email us on info@shipshapebristol.co.uk Disclaimer The information contained in this publication is provided as a general guide only. While every care is taken to ensure that the details are as accurate as possible, we make no warranty or representation, express or implied, about the accuracy or completeness of the information contained in this publication. The views or opinions expressed in this publication are strictly those of the authors. The publishers and/or any of its associated companies or business partners accept no responsibility for damage or loss, howsoever caused, arising directly or indirectly from reliance upon any information obtained from this publication. Shipshape
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Bristol & Bath Unlocked
Saviours of beleaguered parents up and down the country, Emily Kerr and Joshua Perry (pictured) present their fourth days out guide for children. They were designed with the help of over 200 children and are packed with illustrations, stickers, photos and suggestions like where to ride a donkey, walk around a tractor graveyard or climb a clock tower. Here, Emily and Joshua pick their favourite five watery days out:
3 Canoe down the Kennet & Avon Canal Kids love canoeing and we’re basically kids – this is as good a place to do it as any and you can hire bikes and other boats nearby.
1 Float on a boat around Bristol Harbour It’s one of the best ways to see Bristol, there are awesome historic ships such as the Matthew and the ss Great Britain, and it’s a ferry nice way to spend a day! 2 Take a trip on the Waverley paddle steamer It’s a lovely leisurely way to spend a day, and we think it’s rather heroic that the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society bought the Waverley for one pound and has now fully restored it.
4 Ride the Bristol Harbour Railway steam train We both went on the train as kids with our families, and have particularly fond memories of Brunel’s Buttery, where you can buy excellent bacon sandwiches on a Sunday morning. 5 Open up a lock at the National Waterways Museum, Gloucester We love museums that have handson exhibits, and we think it’s great that this museum doesn’t just tell you about locks, they actually give you a chance to work one More: Bristol & Bath Unlocked, £8.99, unlockedguides.com
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The Incredible Journey ‘The Incredible Journey’ charts the wonderful story of the ss Great Britain from 1970 to the present day. Written by 78-year-old Captain Chris Young, the book describes the events leading up to the ship’s salvage, charts her years in the Great Western Dockyard, follows the remarkable sequence of events that led to the Heritage Lottery-funded conservation and restoration project, and celebrates its ‘relaunch’ as an award-winning museum in 2005. The official book launch with Captain Chris Young takes place on 16 December at 3pm at Brunel’s ss Great Britain. More: ssgreatbritain.org four
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celebrate Bristol wins Purple Flag Bristol city centre has become one of the first UK cities to be awarded the prestigious Purple Flag. The award, which is given to ‘well managed and vibrant places to visit and enjoy’, was announced on 3 November 2010 and follows a joint bid by Bristol City Council, Avon and Somerset Constabulary and Destination Bristol. “Just as the Blue Flag is an indicator of a good beach, the Purple Flag indicates a centre that is vibrant and a pleasant place to be,” says John Hirst, Operations Director for Destination Bristol. “We are delighted to have won the award and it will bring positive publicity for our city centre and allow us to build on our success.” Special praise was given to the development of the waterfront by the Watershed, which the judges felt was exemplary in returning this critical area to diverse use. More: purpleflag.org.uk
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shop made in bristol xmas fair Get a gift for your granny, a stocking-filler for your sister or a treat for yours truly at the Made in Bristol Christmas Fair, Colston Hall, 11 & 18 December More: colstonhall.org
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Cheese please In the run-up to Glassboat’s Eat Cheese festival, which takes place on 30 January from 10am to 4pm, Alex Te-Strote, of St Nick’s wonderful Trethowan’s Dairy, tells us why we should all be eating more cheese this winter Looking after the wholesale business for Trethowan’s Dairy means constant contact with some of the top chefs in Bristol, and one of the elements that excites them all is seasonal food. Few people, however, would include cheese in that category. The fact is, when dealing with artisan cheeses, even those that are available all year will change with the seasons depending on what the animals are eating. With daylight at a premium, our bodies crave comfort foods and, as a stored product, cheese has always been an important winter protein source. Here are some of my favourites to turn to as the days close in: Our own Gorwydd Caerphilly will increasingly be made with silage-fed milk, giving concentrated flavours and creaminess. The melting buttery-ness and mushroomy earthiness from the rind make it perfect for cheese on toast. Seek out a good sourdough loaf for the perfect snack. Ogleshield is another great one for melting. Made by Jamie Montgomery of Cheddar fame, we use this West Country Jersey milk cheese on our raclette machines. It also makes wonderfully rich pommes dauphinoise or pasta bake. Add a salad of winter greens and supper is done. Ordinarily I would classify
goat’s and sheep’s milk cheeses as late-spring/earlysummer cheeses, when they first reappear after lambing or kidding. But Dorstone, an ash-rolled goat’s cheese made by Charlie Westhead in Herefordshire, has a meatiness at this time of year that satisfies. Look out for the apricot and cider chutney that will be paired with it at Christmas. Everybody thinks of stilton as Christmas draws near, but Stichelton, an unpasteurised blue cheese made by Joe Schneider on the Welbeck Estate in Nottinghamshire, is supreme in my opinion. The balance of sweet milk and salty blueing will win over any doubters. Finally, Vacherin Mont d’Or was designed for winter eating. Made with milk from Alpine cattle that graze in high mountain pastures, these first become available around mid-October until they run out in February/March. Trethowan’s carries one of the few handmade versions still available. Intended for high calorific intake to survive mountain winters, it’s a great sharing cheese. It can be baked in the box and scooped like a fondue. So do your bit for the planet, turn down the heating and eat more cheese this winter. More: trethowansdairy.co.uk. Eat Cheese takes place on 30 January, glassboat.co.uk five
Join us at Bristol’s home of world class, groundbreaking, heart-stoppingly great classical music thursday 27 january bournemouth symphony orchestra Yan Pascal Tortelier conducts Tchaikovsky's violin concerto and excerpts from Prokofiev's Romeo and Juliet wednesday 9 february vienna tonkunstler orchestra 'The miracle of Vienna' Andres Orozco-Estrada conducts Mozart, Brahms and Beethoven
thursday 3 march bournemouth symphony orchestra The orchestra of the South West play Don Juan and Mahler's 7th symphony thursday 17 march bournemouth symphony orchestra Nicola Benedetti performs Szymanowski's violin concerto no 1 wednesday 27 april philharmonia orchestra Lorin Maazel takes us on a journey with Mozart and Mahler
box office +44 (0)117 922 3686 www.colstonhall.org
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See Maefla The Maelfa Shopping Centre, situated on the outskirts of Cardiff, was built around a block of high-rise flats in the mid-1970s. Once a thriving centre in the local community, it steadily declined over the years and was soon earmarked for demolition. Before its destruction, artist Sean Edwards took up residence in the centre, creating this series of poignant works inspired by this functioning yet near derelict space. More: Maelfa, Spike Island, 21 Jan-10 Apr, spikeisland.org.uk
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Liz Payne Head chef, Glassboat After working at the awardwinning Clarke’s restaurant in London for 18 years, Liz Payne came to Bristol in 2006 to take the role as head chef at Bordeaux Quay. She joined Glassboat in October 2010. We caught up with Liz between sittings to talk about her career in the kitchen. How long have you been in the industry? Quite some time, thank you!
watch Swallows & Amazons What do you get when you team Neil Hannon of the Divine Comedy, the director of the West End hit ‘War Horse’ and the writer of the National Theatre’s ‘Coram Boy’? Bristol Old Vic’s new musical ‘Swallows and Amazons’, of course. Such is the excitement surrounding the project that a number of mutinous stunts have taken place around the city in the run-up to opening night – the latest being a riotous hijacking of Bristol’s very own Matthew by Bristol Old Vic’s Young Company. But none of this compares to the adventures the crew will face as they follow Captain John on his exotic expedition to Wild Cat Island. Get into the spirit of things by booking a ‘houseboat’ (aka a box at Bristol Old Vic) and enjoy a voyagers’ picnic, complimentary grog, programmes and ice cream, all for £200. All together now: yoho-ho and a bottle of rum! More: Bristol Old Vic, until 15 Jan, bristololdvic.org.uk
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Was it always your dream to become a chef ? I’ve always had a passion for cooking and remember cooking for my family as a child (from the age of about nine onwards). It was just my love of food that inspired me to become a chef. What are you hoping to bring to Glassboat? I’d like to bring seasonal, well-sourced food, simply cooked, whose flavours speak for themselves. I think the food will match the stunning dining environment.
What did you think about Glassboat before you arrived? Unfortunately, as head chef of a busy establishment, I didn’t get the opportunity to dine out very often. However, I did manage to enjoy the odd meal at Glassboat and also heard good things. Apart from anything else, its longevity is a testament to the restaurant. It’s a serious Bristolian icon. What five ingredients couldn’t you live without? I couldn’t live without lemons! Also, bitter chocolate, garlic, fresh chillis and fresh herbs. What’s your top tip for creating the perfect Christmas dinner? A time-plan: work ahead where possible and be nicely organised on the day. And always have a gin and tonic in your hand! Which chef do you most admire? Sally Clarke [owner of Clarke’s Restaurant, Shop and Wholesale Bakery] has had the greatest
influence – she’s a friend, mentor and inspiration. If you could cook in any kitchen in the world, where would it be? The Chez Panisse Cafe in Berkeley, California. Turkey or goose on Christmas day? It’s turkey in our house because it’s really traditional (and the kids prefer it). What’s your signature dish? From our current menu, the dish that really reflects what I do is a starter of grilled pigeon breast and watercress with sweet and sour blackberries. Anything else you’d like to add? I consider it a great honour to cook at Glassboat. I hope that the food I inspire my team to create is something that customers will want to come back for regularly. Come and see us! More: glassboat.co.uk.
Don’t miss Arnolfini’s 50th anniversary celebrations, which begin on Sat 19 Feb with a new exhibition of work by Cosima von Bonin (pictured) plus talks, free activities for the family and more. We’ll be running a full feature on Arnolfini’s anniversary next issue seven
the pigguide .com Speak to your GP about the flu jab today
It’s life, Bath... but not as you know it.
Upcoming events at Glassboat Plenty of fun events to keep you going during the cold, dark months! Tuesday 25 January Burns Night Whiskey-matched menu, readings & reeling. £35 a head Sunday 30 January Eat Cheese! Back for it’s second year. Eat Cheese festival brings a host of stalls, tastings, live music and family fun & games to the dockside. Special Sunday menu onboard First Sunday of every month Soul Food Lazy Sunday menu, brunch and proper roasts, free Bloody Marys, laidback soul tunes Sunday 13 February, 10.00am–4.00pm Valentine’s Brunch Special Valentine’s set menu with free pink bubbles and live music. £25 per person 12 & 14 February, 5.30pm–11.00pm Valentine’s at Glassboat Special Valentine’s set menu. £45 per person, inc. three courses and arrival cocktails For more information please contact Kirstie on 0117 9290704 or restaurant@glassboat.co.uk
Glassboat Welsh Back Bristol BS1 4SB 0117 929 0704 E bookings@glassboat.co.uk W www.glassboat.co.uk
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Gane’s Pavilion, Bristol , England , ca. 1936 / Courtesy of the Marcel Breuer papers, 1920-1986, AAA, Smithsonian Institution
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BOOK richard ii Shakespeare at the Tobacco Factory celebrates its 12th season with a brace of plays – ‘Richard II’ and ‘The Comedy of Errors’. Running from Thursday 10 February until Saturday 19 March, ‘Richard II’ is Shakespeare’s theatrical account of the eponymous king’s last days after he takes the disastrous decision to exile his cousin Henry Bullingbrook and seize his Lancastrian estates. Bullingbrook returns to England, overthrows Richard and takes the throne for himself as Henry IV, setting the stage for the bloody Wars of the Roses. We’ll be previewing ‘The Comedy of Errors’ in the spring issue. More: sattf.org.uk
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Breuer in Bristol You’ve only got until Christmas Eve to see the Architecture Centre’s fascinating exhibition about one of Bristol’s most unlikely friendships. Breuer in Bristol is the story of the partnership between Bauhaus master Marcel Breuer and Crofton Gane, Bristol furniture manufacturer, which resulted in one of the most important examples of early Modernist architecture: The Gane Pavilion 1936 (pictured). The exhibition will reveal the reasons behind
Bristol’s dalliance with Modernism at a time when the Arts and Crafts movement was the driving force in design. Find rare archive images, artefacts, Breuer-designed and Gane-manufactured furniture, and a specially made model of the Gane Pavilion. You can also hear what Bristol’s residents thought about this key moment in the city’s history. More: Architecture Centre, until 24 Dec, architecturecentre.co.uk
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Impress your peers with your new-found knowledge of art – What Is… Contemporary Art? A Beginners Guide, Arnolfini, Sat 26-Sun 27 Feb, 2-5pm (£20/£15) discover all about us Launching in March, All About Us is At-Bristol’s new £1.5million permanent exhibition. As the name suggests, it’s a veritable celebration of the human body and how it works. There’ll be more than 50 new or siginifantly improved hands-on science exhibits – including real body parts, for your little CSI in the making. Hear music through the vibrations of the bones in your jaw, look at your veins under infrared lights, watch food run through a skeleton’s body, see your own blood cells move through the capillaries of your eye, and much more!
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Bristol’s Slapstick Silent Comedy Gala Laurel & Hardy, Buster Keaton, Charlie Chaplin, Harold Lloyd: all the greats are present and correct at the seventh annual Slapstick Silent Comedy Gala, taking place on Friday 28 January at Colston Hall (£16-£20). Special guest hosts Barry Cryer, Ian Lavender and Bill Oddie will be introducing four classic short films, including Buster Keaton’s ‘Neighbors’ (1920) and Charlie Chaplin’s ‘One A.M.’ (1916), and each of the shorts will be accompanied live by either the European Silent Screen Virtuosi or 25-piece youth big band Jazz Train. There’ll also be special guest vocal performances from Neil Innes (Bonzo Dog Doo-Dah Band) and Paul McGann (pictured). The night forms part of Bristol’s Slapstick Festival.
More: at-bristol.org.uk
More: colstonhall.org Shipshape
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The Shipshape winter investigation
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Trading places They help boost the local economy, are good for the environment and make for a better shopping experience all round. So why are there so few markets around the Harbourside? Mark Sayers investigates “We’re ready. We’ve got the producers, we’ve got the landlords’ consent. I would hope to be up and running as a permanent Harbourside market by Easter. I just need the green light from the Council.” This is Bryony Morgan, Director of Love Local, an events organisation showcasing locally produced art, crafts and artisan food via regular markets at Paintworks and Colston Hall. Bryony also runs the Tobacco Factory’s weekly food and crafts market and, last June, managed a successful four-week trial market on the Harbourside. She’s now hoping to reintroduce the latter on a permanent basis from next spring. Bryony is just one of a group of voices calling for more street markets around Bristol, with the Harbourside cited as a prime spot for a big weekly or even daily food and craft event. Markets, goes the argument, carry all sorts of benefits. Continued over...
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They help start-up traders get a foothold on the commercial ladder; they cut food miles and packaging by sourcing local produce; they make for a more inviting, sociable and varied shopping experience, for city-dwellers and visitors alike, than the corridors of your average identikit hypermart. Bryony and others see a Harbourside market as a crucial step in turning Bristol into a market city – the eventual aim being perhaps a dozen weekly neighbourhood markets across town. Before this can happen, though, they must wait for the findings of the Markets Review, a study commissioned by Bristol City Council into the city’s markets landscape (and whose findings have just been published – have a look at bristol.gov.uk/retailcentres for details). BCC – which runs the city centre’s only regular market, St Nicholas – commissioned the Review to investigate the current health of the city’s
markets, and the desirability of allowing further markets to develop in the centre of town. Bryony’s Harbourside Market would be a prime candidate if any further markets were allowed.
and Christmas Steps. Now, though, there is growing pressure from Bryony and others for markets around the Harbourside, one of Bristol’s most historic and most visited areas and also one of the zones most in need of The Markets Charter ‘animation’ – a new lease of life and activity. So why is the Review so crucial to Bristol’s Those who consider that the Harbourside market future? A quick history lesson, if you would benefit from a street market (and we’ll don’t mind. Through its 650-year-old Markets look more closely at the reasons why very Charter (granted by Edward IV in 1462 as a shortly) question the Council’s adherence to, reward for Bristol’s support during the Wars they say, an outdated piece of legislation. Hence the newly published Markets Review, of the Roses), the Council has strategic control of markets throughout the city. Most crucially, for which BCC asked consultants Market Squared (one of the founders of London’s it has the power to prevent any person hugely successful food market, Borough operating a market within 6.7 miles of any council-operated market (ie. St Nick’s) without Market) and Roger Tym & Partners to examine Bristol’s market landscape in detail. Council permission. Thus far, BCC has used The Review has studied a range of factors, these rights with discretion, allowing a clutch including current and future prospects for of privately run markets to spring up at areas markets in Bristol, public demand for more including Whiteladies Road, Fishponds Park markets, and whether the Council’s use of the existing Charter is in the best interests Common Loaf Bakery of consumers and stallholders. Put simply, the findings may (or may not) recommend allowing more markets to develop around town, and it may (or may not) find that the Council’s use of the Charter is no longer appropriate. “If the consultants find that there is room for other markets in the city, I’d hope that the Council would then look at our proposal Bryony Morgan, Director of Love Local on the Harbourside,” Bryony continues. “A Saturday food market in the eighth biggest city in the country – how hard can that be? Every market town in Somerset and Gloucestershire has a Saturday food market. And we know – from the trial back in June – that we’ve got the food producers to make it happen.”
“I want to offer a living, breathing, sensory experience of all that makes living in the South West so fantastic”
The big idea
So when, where and what would the Harbourside Market be? It would be sited on Bordeaux Quay, the covered walkway outside Watershed and the Tourist Information Centre, although it could also spill onto Narrow Quay opposite and, on occasions, BQ’s neighbour, Anchor Square. The initial proposal is for a Thursday, Friday and Saturday food, art and craft market, perhaps introducing Sunday for a non-food browsers’ market – antiques, books and records, plants, etc. Opening hours would be 10am-3pm, with the possibility of further opening days and perhaps a late opening to catch home-from-work shoppers. “We don’t want to duplicate St Nick’s, so we’d ensure that the food market would be on a different day from Wednesdays [when St Nick’s holds its farmers’ twelve
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market],” Bryony explains. In fact, she believes Bristol could support a market every day of the week in different parts of town. “For markets to catch on, they have to be accessible. And one farmers’ market, one morning a week, isn’t enough for a city of Bristol’s size. I admit that I shop in supermarkets, because I don’t have enough access to locally produced food to suit my schedule. I’d love to go the farmers’ market every Wednesday but I won’t always have time that day.” And what would be on sale? “A varied programme, with quality being the main criterion. I want to offer a living, breathing, sensory experience of all that makes living in the South West so fantastic. And, of course, to support local traders and provide a useful and affordable shopping experience.” But what’s so great about markets in the first place? There are several tiers, Bryony explains, to the pro-markets argument. For one thing, they present brilliant trading opportunities for hard-working local food producers, who’d otherwise find their profit margins squeezed by the supermarkets. “For a local economy, markets are an incredibly useful, immediate way to grow your business – especially in a tough economic climate like this. Markets are hard work, but they are an immediate way to get your products out there and test demand. Not providing those opportunities stifles the local economy.” But it’s not just down to economics. The South West can also draw on huge reserves of knowledge, expertise and natural wealth to support its market culture. “We are lucky enough to live in a very rich farming region, and it seems daft not to use the amazing produce grown here. We’re also a very well equipped, knowledgeable city when it comes to food. And there are huge benefits from Shipshape
feeding yourself from your surrounding countryside – it’s healthier and fresher, it makes you much more aware of the natural wealth of your region, and it associates you much more closely with where you food comes from.” A market would also, she says, bring a muchneeded lease of life to the ‘Waterfront’ area – ie. Anchor and Millennium Squares, areas that have been blighted by a concentration of big drinking venues, somewhat forbidding to visitors in search of a more relaxed night out. “The Waterfront has been associated in recent years with ‘vertical drinking’ [large chain bars where alcohol is sold relatively cheaply]. That’s changing, though – thanks, ironically, to the economic climate. Bars like Baja and Chicago Rock have closed, buildings are lying empty and the area’s desperately in need of a new lease of life. It now needs venues that can welcome all sorts of people.” She cites fledgling venue The Harbourside, further along the same Bordeaux Quay strip that houses Watershed, as an example: as well as serving locally sourced food, TH has a small shop where customers can browse, an oyster bar and sofas outside. It also acts as a ticket desk for the Bristol Ferry Boat Company. “That sort of animation is immediate, relatively simple, and can bring an area to life. But if you want to keep an area alive, you have to put life in it. That’s especially true when businesses are failing in a recession – empty buildings make an area feel far less welcoming, while markets are a brilliant way to animate a street.” Market shopping shouldn’t be seen as a middle-class preserve, either. “The enormous farmers’ market in Turin [admittedly a city with twice Bristol’s population] runs six days a week and the whole city is there – there is a price point for everyone, from ultra-organic stuff downwards. You’ll find the same in countless European cities. Paris has 80 markets, most of them huge on our scale." ➳
Market forces
Grab your reusable bags and head to one of these fabulous markets Christmas Steps Artisan Market
Taking place on the first Saturday of the month Eastville Market
Huge outdoor market every Friday and Sunday Farmers’ Market
The award-winning weekly market on Corn Street, where you can buy delicious produce direct from the producers every Wednesday Fishponds Farmers’ Market
Small outdoor food market open for business every second Thursday of the month Fruit Market
Outdoor market selling more than just fruit every Sunday in St Philips The Nails Market
This weekly crafts market takes place every Friday and Saturday on Corn Street and Wine Street Slow Food Market
Takes place the first Sunday of every month on Corn Street St Nicholas Market
Independent retailers sell their wares (from records to olives) from Monday to Saturday Tobacco Factory Market
Lovely outdoor market with around 30 traders selling food and crafts every Sunday Westbury-on-Trym Local Produce Market
Food and crafts on offer every fourth Saturday of the month Whiteladies Road Farmers and Fair Trading
Food market open for business every first and third Saturday of the month on the corner of Whiteladies Road and Apsley Road Woolies Indoor Market
Find 34 stalls over two floors at the top of Whiteladies Road. Open Monday to Saturday
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The Ferguson factor
Another crucial activist in the markets movement is George Ferguson – architect, owner of the Tobacco Factory (Sunday market and all) and coowner of the aforementioned Harbourside bistro. “Bristol has, along with most UK cities, a pathetic market culture,” George reflects. “UK markets tend to be a relative pinprick compared with the staple food provider they are in many European cities, where supermarkets have not taken the same stranglehold they have here.” The latter, he says, are driven by an obsession with growth and market share. “This has the inevitable effect of damaging the independent providers and retailers, and supermarkets’ centralised distribution systems militates against regional and smaller suppliers who can benefit from cutting out the middle men and selling direct.” And the solution? “We could give up, admit that the big chains have won the battle and that
markets are for a fringe middle class – or we could work with our regional food providers and makers to provide a real challenge. There is plenty of potential for a market culture in Bristol, but we need to work hard at helping producers who feel trapped by the supermarkets’ ruthless purchasing methods.” The benefits of markets aren’t confined to stallholders’ pockets, either. “Street markets that bring provider and consumer together have a great educational role – they demonstrate that apples, for instance, come in hundreds of local varieties, shapes and flavours, rather than the bland, largely foreign varieties on supermarket shelves.” Magnus Macdonald is another interested party in the markets debate. Chairman of the Glassboat Company, Magnus co-founded the floating restaurant on Welsh Back; he’s also a hugely experienced markets man, having run markets
Pictured clockwise from top: Vincent Castellano of Castellano’s Charcuterie and Traiteur; Helen Brent-Smith and David Kasper of Day’s Cottage Apple Juice; Sandra Paget and Terry Duncan of Paget 4th Generation Grocers.
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at festivals including Glastonbury, V Festival and The Big Chill. Recently, he’s introduced a series of successful themed markets along Welsh Back, including Fish Fest, Eat Cheese and Summer Fayre. “I’m a passionate believer in the future of Bristol’s docks, and I see markets as a central part of the docks’ future wellbeing,” Magnus observes. “But it’s fiendishly difficult to get things moving in Bristol. The Council’s Markets department does a perfectly good job, but is hiding behind a 650-yearold piece of legislation [the Markets Charter] that no longer has a function. “Steve Morris [Bristol City Council Market Manager] is actually a very good market manager – he looks after St Nicholas Market and its traders very well – but it’s only on a limited scale. The general view is that any new markets would compete with St Nick’s – but, in fact, other markets will only bring benefits, because you get people into the market habit, get them thinking, ‘OK, it’s cold and wet, but at the market we can get interesting, good-quality stuff.’” He also underlines Bryony’s point about markets’ crucial role in getting small businesses moving. “Everyone’s asking, ‘Where are all these jobs going to come from?’ You’d create a few hundred jobs just by getting markets going in Bristol. The current climate is bringing mass redundancies – one way people can take back control of their lives is through market trading. Overheads are cheap, you’re in direct contact with buyers: markets are the rawest and most immediate way of learning to manage your own venture. Some will fail, others succeed,
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“I’m a passionate believer in the future of Bristol’s docks, and I see markets as a central part of the docks’ future wellbeing. But it’s fiendishly difficult to get things moving in Bristol”
gives the Council the right to decide who has a market within six miles of the city centre – but I would argue that Tesco, Sainsbury’s and so forth are basically indoor markets. Worse, they’re not bringing any of the benefits that markets would – livelihoods, animation of an area, social interaction, using local producers and makers. It would be interesting to see what happened if the Markets Charter was put up against Tesco!” George Ferguson is yet more adamant on this point. “Why they did not think of using the Magnus Macdonald, Markets Charter to restrict the domination of the Chairman of the Glassboat Company supermarkets is beyond me. A thriving market culture is a major attractor at a time when cities others will go off and think about how to do have to compete for attention, tourism and outside things differently – but at least you sow the seeds investment. They’re also a fundamental element of people’s future independence.” in the greening of cities, in terms of reducing food Magnus has similarly ambitious plans for miles and all sorts of wasteful energy practices. the parts of town (Welsh Back, King Street They are also extremely sociable places.” and Queen Square) adjoining Glassboat, as The Council was unwilling to comment in Bryony does for the stretch of harbour further depth before the findings were made public, but west. “The pedestrianisation of King Street Steve Morris issued this comment: “The City would be a brilliant idea. Regular events there Council has an excellent market track record, with would animate this area and give Bristol a nationally recognised and award-winning markets. whole extra two miles of quayside to generate We are currently conducting an independent visitor income. King Street is a dead end at review of markets in the city and are also looking the moment – one of the most beautiful streets at the potential for developing additional, in Bristol, yet one of the least used. Ten years sustainable markets in Bristol. “The Council and its partners such as ago it was home to various drinking clubs, but Destination Bristol know that sustainable these have all died off and it’s in urgent need of a new lease of life – partly to take advantage and viable markets bring many benefits to residents and the wider region. This review of such a gorgeous street but also to ensure it will inform a markets policy and examine doesn’t become derelict or intimidating.” What might be the template for a modern potential future opportunities for markets in market in the area? “You could have a weekly the city. The review will also help to shape CD/book market on King Street and Welsh Back. a robust business plan for the Council’s own And King Street is just asking for a Christmas market operations at St Nicholas. Market. Pedestrianise the street to create a regular “The Council believes that markets will play a market area, move the bins between Spyglass key role in Bristol’s future sustainable economic restaurant and The Apple cider bar and growth. We are aware of the huge economic, install a bandstand in their place, where social and environmental benefits markets bring you’d invite buskers to play. Combine that to the city, from creating small-scale, start-up with some sensitive traffic management, and opportunities for burgeoning businesses to you have an inexpensive way to animate an attracting more visitors and from providing a underused gem in the heart of Bristol.” platform to showcase locally sourced goods and But, warns Magnus, markets aren’t services to encouraging reuse and recycling in its plain sailing. “They need hard work to widest possible sense.” Last word to Bryony, back on the succeed. You’ve got to give people reasons Harbourside. “We want the harbour to be to come to markets, and numbers take a focal point of our city again, rather than time to build up. If it’s cold and wet somewhere people should feel scared to go. people won’t come. And if traders don’t make money they won’t come. Markets are It’s Bristol’s USP – we are a port, a centre of commerce, and what better way to show that delicate things – they need nurturing.” than by putting commerce right back onto the Back to the Charter waterfront, where merchants have unloaded Magnus is less than enamoured of the their goods from boats for centuries?” s 650-year-old Markets Charter – or, at least, For more on the Market Charter and a detailed analysis of the Markets Review, of its modern application. “The Markets Charter is a wonderful historical anachronism. see www.bristol.gov.uk/retailcentres. Bristol’s first Christmas Market takes place in Broadmead West until 19 Dec, selling arts, crafts, food and drink from But in today’s shopping environment, it’s across the region. The German Christmas Market also returns to Broadmead East until 22 Dec. See http://tinyurl.com/39mdku4 for more info on both damaging rather than benefiting Bristol. It fifteen
harbourside map & ferry guide
getting around the harbourside... If you’re not familiar with the area (or even if you’re just looking for a little inspiration), our map will help you plan your trip and move around the Harbourside with ease. Use it to find where you are in relation to some of the area’s best-loved landmarks, identify which ferry stops are the most convenient for your journey and locate some of this season’s most exciting events
Sightseeing
Swashbucklers and scallywags, ahoy! Want to know how Blackbeard met his end? Eager to learn more about Italian explorer John Cabot? Fancy taking a trip into a smuggler’s cave? Then Pirate Pete’s your man. His hour-long Pirate Walks around Bristol’s Harbourside are something of an institution, packed with historical facts and fascinating stories of pirating pursuits in the 17th and 18th centuries. Suitable for pirates of all ages (including those of the canine kind), the walk is flat and wheelchair accessible. MORE
City Sightseeing Bristol runs open-top bus tours of the city, from the historic harbourside up to Bristol Zoo in Clifton and beyond. Running from mid-March to the end of October, the tours last for an hour and a quarter but you can hop on and off as you please. Harbourside stops can be found at the CREATE Centre, Baltic Wharf, Brunel’s ss Great Britain, At-Bristol, Prince Street and Bristol Bridge. MORE
don’t miss pirate walks
Brunel’s ss Great Britain – world famous
Capricorn Quay l
citysightseeingbristol.co.uk Mardyke l
l Pump House (for Suspension Bridge)
piratewalks.co.uk
l Grain Barge
l Marina
Brunel’s ss Great Britain (for Spike Island) l
Marina l
Blue Reef – aquarium & 3D cinema
cross harbour ferry
Jacks Brasserie l
l Nova Scotia (for Create Centre, Lockside and Tobacco Factory)
l The Cottage
l Olive Shed
Hotwells Route Temple Meads Route Sightseeing – see panel At-Bristol – interactive science centre sixteen
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harbourside map & ferry guide
Bristol Ferry Boat Co
Festival eat cheese
Throughout the winter their RED Hotwells service is out on the water daily – departures start at 10.30am from the city centre and Temple Meads. Their blue service is out on the water at weekends only with departures from Temple Meads starting from 10.10am.
Sunday 30 January, 10am-4pm, Welsh Back
Their ferries are like a bus (a waterbus even), so use them to jump on and get to your favourite attraction, cafe, restaurant, pub, place of work or to enjoy a circular tour enjoying the great sights and sounds of the historic harbour. There’s lots to see – swans, geese, a whole array of unusual boats of varying shapes and sizes, St Mary Redcliffe’s spire, Cabot Tower, stunning views towards Ashton Court and Clifton – a vista feast in fact! See also entry on page 26. For full details and timetable visit: bristolferry.com Castle Park (for Cabot Circus, Broadmead) l
If you like cheese (and, let’s face it, who doesn’t?), then you’ll have made your way to Glassboat’s irresistibly moreish Eat Cheese festival last winter. (Shipshape, heavily pregnant at the time, wept through the whole thing, unable to sample many of the stinky delights on offer.) Well, they’re at it again, and this time they’ve invited along the West Country’s finest cheesemongers (including Trethowan’s, who we’ve talked to over on page 5) to show off their wares. Find demonstrations, chutneys, woodwork, livestock, games, competitions and a ‘taste off’ battle between three well-known local producers. Live music, canon-firing fun from The Matthew and an all-round party atmosphere will complete this lactose loving day. MORE
glassboat.co.uk
Bristol Bridge (for St Nicholas Market) l
The Rummer – cocktail bar and dining rooms
City Centre (for Colston Hall, Cathedral, Park St and main bus routes) l
Glassboat l
Source – food hall & café
Temple Bridge l l l Redcliffe Back Welsh Back (for Old Vic and Renato’s)
Temple Quay (for Temple Meads train station) l
l Spyglass
l Watershed Bristol Visitor Information Centre
l The Apple
River Grille l l Shore Bordeaux Quay l
Glassboat – fine dining and spectacular views Bordeaux Quay – ethical eatery
l Architecture Centre
Millennium Square (for At-Bristol and Blue Reef) l
l Arnolfini
l Mud Dock
l Thekla
l Myristica
Severnshed l l Riverstation Myristica – award-winning
l Prince Street (for The Louisiana)
l M-Shed
Olive Shed – tasty tapas Shipshape
l Bathurst Basin The Ostrich l
Arnolfini – contemporary arts centre and café
Look out for the spring issue of Shipshape - available across the Harbourside from 7 March three
feature
Shipwright Gary Grizzell invites Shipshape aboard his burgeoning waterbased business, Floss’s Fuel Delivery Service The fuel-delivery service is a spin-off, really. My main job is as a shipwright at the Bristol Classic Boat Company on Redcliffe Boat Yard. It was my first job out of marine school and I was lucky enough to be part of the team that built the Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter for the Island Trust. Daytime work is building, repairing and maintaining boats that people bring in – we’ve got nine boats in for repair at the moment and have just taken delivery of a big yacht for a refit for winter. We do all the maintenance for Bristol Ferry Boat Company too. I do my wood and coal delivery at the evenings and weekends. The idea for the Floss’s Fuel Delivery Service came about after a conversation I had with Mark [Rolt, director of Bristol Classic Boat Company] about selling the spare wood produced on the yard as fuel. We produce a lot of wood waste on the yard so I thought it would be a good idea to chop it into logs and sell it on. I did a census around the docks and got pretty positive responses – before I knew it I was buying coal wholesale. I also do waste collection, picking up old batteries and used oil. I’d had my eye on Floss for quite a few years, when I was living down in Cornwall. I begged the owner to sell her to me but he refused. I got her in the end though. I didn’t buy the boat with fuel in mind – I just bought it because I really wanted it. I absolutely haemorrhaged cash doing it up and then had to come up with a way of paying the bills. I started delivering in December 2009 after a bit of delay in getting Floss ready. But this year we’ve hit the ground running. I’ve got the boat here, the coal here, last year’s customer base to work off. Were thinking of offering a general recycling service too but there are quite a few hoops to jump through. We’d need a bigger boat too. I reckon I’m up to about 100 customers now. And I’m starting to get random calls about collecting waste oils and batteries. There have also been enquiries from Saltford and Hanham too, so that’s something I’m looking into. The business has developed into a nice thing but it’s all down to Mark’s generosity and patience. I operate out of the yard and can store everything there so it’s really down to him. If I do have any spare time, I don’t go very far from the habour – there’s everything you need down here: the Old Duke, Grain Barge, eighteen
Coa
Shakespeare Tavern, Nova Scotia – nice pubs, good food, great music venues and a good community spirit. The redevelopment of some of the dockside is a benefit to the city. I’m a big fan of interesting architecture and new design but I don’t see a lot of that going on. I think the city should be doing more to encourage boats in, making it a more interesting and inviting place for big commercial yachts. We’ve got bags of space, after all. A lot of the boats that are fitted out in France and Spain should be coming here – we’ve got the skills and infrastructure but they’re enticed away. The facilities abroad are taken care of and looked after and I think the Council has taken its eye off the ball a little bit here. If you’ve got big privately owned yachts coming in, it brings the money in. I’ve lived and worked on the Harbourside for about 12 years. I live on boats, work on them and deliver door-to-door so you could say that I live and breathe boats, really. The people who I’ve been nodding and saying ‘all right’ to I’m now having conversations with. It’s definitely a very friendly place to be – everyone living the same way, slap-bang in the middle of the city centre, not that you’d know it. It’s a different way to live. Not freezing cold in the winter, like everyone thinks. Once you get the woodburner going it’s lovely and cosy. s More: bristolclassicboat.co.uk, 07530 173989
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“I think the city should be doing more to encourage boats in, making it a more interesting and inviting place�
alporter Shipshape
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Cosima von Bonin, detail of ENGLAND (SLOTH BEARDSLEY VERSION & MVO’S COSIMOS SONGS), 2007 / 2010 Courtesy the artist, Galerie Daniel Buchholz (Cologne) and Friedrich Petzel (New York) Installation photo Witte de With 2009: Bob Goedewaagen
Bookshop Café bar Dance Events Exhibitions Film Music Performance
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Free admission to exhibition spaces open from 11am Tue – Sun café bar open daily from 10am
16 NARROW QUAY, BRISTOL BS1 4QA
WWW.ARNOLFINI.ORG.UK
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interview
I ❤ Harbourside This issue, Shipshape caught up with Bristol Ferry Boat Company skipper and educational tour operator Rosie Dee to talk seagulls, the M Shed and what she’d miss if she got a “proper job”
Why did you decide to get a job working on the ferries? Having finished my MA I was desperate to escape the silence of lonely rooms and the artificial air of a centrally heated building: I needed the outdoors. My best friends had worked the boats for years and, as it was familiar territory for me, having lived with my mum on a barge, it seemed an ideal way of scraping a living. It was just supposed to be a stopgap before getting a ‘proper job’ but I fell in love with it. Then I got my ticket, started learning all about the history of the harbour, met my partner Steve (who’s also a ferry skipper), made loads of great friends and that was it – I was totally hooked. What’s the best part of your job? Interacting with the passengers, helping them out, witnessing their pleasure, sharing our passion. And we get everyone on the ferries, of all ages and from all walks of life, from tourists to commuters – it’s a mini microcosm of society. The commuters are my favourites – there’s a sense of camaraderie between us because we’re all at work; we see them first thing in the morning and last thing at night so they become Shipshape
almost like friends. And we love the couples from the Caravan Club up at Baltic Wharf – you get to know them over the week and hear what they’ve been up to and what they’ve discovered and then they’ll recognise you when they return the year after! The hardest part? Winter and the long hours being cold and damp – wet ropes are never a joy, particularly first thing in the morning. What’s your favourite spot around the Harbourside? The ferries, without a doubt – no single spot can beat perambulation. Out there you’re in the centre of it all; you get to shelter from the rain under the bridges or chase the sun as it goes down, and watch all the little events unfold around the harbour while listening to the splash of the bow waves (if you’re lucky enough not to be stuck by a noisy engine). Do you go out on the Harbourside much? Most of the ferry crew spend their spare time around the harbour; quite a few are sailors and live on boats or help on the Matthew and the other tall ships that enter the docks, so it’s our
stomping ground in or out of work. For me it’s the Grain Barge: I like that it was built just across the way from its present mooring at Charles Hill’s yard in 1936. It’s one of those little signs of Bristol’s trading history you can find all around the harbour, plus the food is exceptional and affordable, there’s always a crossword in one of the newspapers to do, and it’s just a really comfortable place to sit and watch the water. ➳ twenty-one
Sail with Santa!
rem plan and run every type of event...
Carefully. Creatively. Meticulously. Maybe the secret is little more than the years of experience or maybe it’s an obsession with getting things right. Event Organisers of the Year 2006/2007/2009
Richmond Event Management Ltd 59 Prince Street Bristol BS1 4QH Tel 0117 9276614 Fax 0117 9221497 Email info@rem-events.com
www.rem-events.com
clifton
kitchen Modern British food Traditional Sunday roasts Relaxed and sociable dining Stylish and comfortable interior 112 Princess Victoria Street Clifton BS8 4DB Tel. (0117) 9467870 www.cliftonkitchen.com
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Shipshape
interview
Rosie and owner Jane Salvidge (right) aboard Bristol Ferry Boat HQ
What one thing could significantly improve life around the Harbourside? I can’t think of one big thing really – it’s hard to complain about such a great environment. I suppose I’ve always thought that St Augustine’s Reach should be reopened and extended to its original length, but I know that’s never going to happen. Otherwise I think they need to throw a bit more money at rubbish clearance on the water. They’ve got a cool little boat that comes and clears flotsam away that’s floated down from upriver or that’s gathered after big events – they need to clone it. Oh, and fewer seagulls wouldn’t go amiss either, or at least a better class of seagull that ate fresh mackerel rather than people’s burgers and so didn’t suffer ADHD and anger management issues as a result.
“I think they need to throw a bit more money at rubbish clearance on the water. They’ve got a cool little boat that comes and clears flotsam away that’s floated down from upriver or that’s gathered after big events – they need to clone it” Are Harbourside workers a closeknit bunch? Yes, I’d say so. Everyone knows everyone out here and if you don’t get a chance to meet during the working day the likelihood is you’ll see them in the pub in the evening. There are of course some ‘office politics’ with lots of businesses sharing the same territory, but on the whole it’s a great dynamic and we all try to help each other out. How do you feel about the new-build flats around the area? It’s hard to be polite about some of the most recent additions. I fear that in some instances the Harbourside authorities may have fallen victim to the plague of short-termism and mercenary ends. I believe that, on the site of the present
Crest Nicholson flats, there was a plan for a sort of Little Venice with extended waterways reaching in among low-level housing. I think in the long-term it would have been a far more profitable venture, not only providing good quality housing in a stunning setting but also bringing more tourism to Bristol. What about the M Shed? I know there’s been a lot of controversy over the amount of money they’ve spent on this project but I give it my full backing. It will be a great new attraction for the Harbourside, bringing more people down to the water who mightn’t otherwise have come, and because it’s free anyone and everyone will be able to come and learn more about Bristol’s fascinating history. I’m particularly excited by the focus on people’s stories they’ve taken on this new museum – I can’t wait!
Why do you love the Harbourside so much? Wow, what a question – loads of things. The sky! There’s so much sky around here, above you and below you reflected in the water, so despite being in the middle of the city you never feel enclosed. I also love the way it changes over time, through the ebb and flow of the day and the seasons of the year. The light and immense peace first thing in the morning when the water’s like glass is unbeatable, even the way the raindrops hit the surface of the water in heavy storms is something I’d miss if I got a proper job. When you work indoors you lose contact with all this stuff but out here you can’t miss it, you’re part of it. s twenty-three
lido
restaurant, spa & pool
Pre-wedding pampering An alternative to the traditional hen party, the Lido’s Pre-Wedding Pampering Package is the perfect indulgence before the big day For full details and special offers visit www.lidobristol.com Oakfield Place, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2BJ Reception 0117 933 9530 Restaurant 0117 933 9533 www.lidobristol.com
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Far left: At-Bristol’s cavernous Flight Zone. This pic: Morph proves a crowd pleaser
Miniature marvels
Jason Ewing took his son to At-Bristol’s Toddler Takeover… but, he asks, is it better than chucking him in the Learn and Groove and putting the football on? Any new parent has the same set of anxieties: your baby’s health, sleeping through, eating like a horse and so on… and just as important is making sure that you’re doing enough so they don’t get bored. So At-Bristol’s latest innovation – the Toddler Takeover day – was welcomed with open arms in our household, even if our little fella wasn’t quite old enough to partake in all that was on offer. Spread over two floors, there are enough knobs to twiddle, water to splash and shiny bits to whack to ensure even the most demanding tyke puts down his Nintendo DS for a couple of hours. We arrived (late – nappy logistics) at around noon and things were already in full swing with the buggy parking areas full-to-bursting and each of the exhibitions well thumbed, gummed and drooled over. We ventured into the aircraft hangar-like main exhibition area, where Dexter bared his teeth (two, bottom row, just visible)
to an over-zealous mum The next Toddler Takeover hogging the ‘build a body days take place on 14 with plastic bits’ installation. January (with a theme of Mission accomplished – she Crazy Creatures), 25 March (Super Senses) and 6 May water) in the huge treadmill and took the hint and threw (Wonderful Weather). They run mucked about in the sandpit. in the towel – we took in from 10am-4pm. Admission The afternoon brought more a whistle-stop tour of the (including Gift Aid) is £6.90 for adults and £5.90 for 3fun for tiny scientists as they Archimedes’ screw (splash, to 4-year-olds. Members and learnt how to paint butterflies, smile), model lock gates under-3s go free. helped birds catch bugs, made (wide-eyed wonder) and giant rainbows and sifted through some shiny things to hit with autumn leaves. While most of this may have a hammer (the undisputed champion). Out in the Flight Zone, Dexter was happy been lost on Dexter (who was content watching to roll around with stuffed dinosaurs and perch Morph doing cartwheels in the praxinoscope), triumphantly on the full-size aeroplane wheel we saw plenty of families settling in for the day, while the older children launched flying objects, safe in the knowledge that tears and tantrums burned off some calories (and shifted buckets of were off the menu… for now. At-Bristol prides itself on its hand-on Hands-on fun approach to learning, and while Dexter for the family. might not have been quite up to some of the lessons on offer, we know there are plenty of educational (and fun) afternoons out just waiting for us in this cavernous kids’ paradise. And even if we weren’t oblivious to Dexter filling his undergarments after only 10 minutes of arriving, as another brightly coloured plastic body part was thrown around the room, he was. s More: at-bristol.org.uk
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shipshape directory
Arnolfini Arnolfini Contemporary Arts Centre 16 Narrow Quay, Bristol BS1 4QA Tel: 0117 917 2300/01 www.arnolfini.org.uk Opening times: Exhibition Spaces: Tue - Sun 11am - 6pm & Bank Holidays; Bookshop: Tue 11am - 6pm, Wed - Sat 11am - 8pm, Sun 11am - 7pm; Café Bar: Daily from 10am
At-Bristol
Anchor Road, Harbourside, BS1 5DB 0845 345 1235, at-bristol.org.uk Opening hours: weekends and holidays 10am-6pm; weekdays during term-time 10am-5pm. Open every day except 24-26 December
Bristol Ferry Boat Company
For full details visit: bristolferry.com For a map of the service – complete with ferry stops – and more information, turn to pages 16 & 17.
Bristol Tourist Information Centre E Shed, 1 Canons Road, BS1 5TX 0333 321 0101 (calls charged at national rate), ticharbourside@destinationbristol.co.uk Opening hours: open daily all year round (except Christmas day and Boxing day). 10am-6pm (April-September), 10am-5pm (October–March)
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Based at the heart of Bristol’s harbourside, in a fantastic waterside location, Arnolfini is one of Europe’s leading centres for the contemporary arts. Arnolfini features a regularly changing programme, presenting visual art, live art and performance, dance, music, cinema, poetry and literature events and a busy education programme of tours and talks. Arnolfini boasts one of the best arts bookshops in the country and a stylish, lively café bar featuring an Italian inspired and children’s menu. Free admission to the building, exhibitions and café bar.
There is so much to discover in At-Bristol - one of the Country’s biggest and most exciting interactive science centres! With over 300 hands-on exhibits (from becoming an animator for the day to walking through a tornado), live science shows and a Planetarium, where you can take a trip to the stars and learn how to spot beautiful constellations! At-Bristol also has a unique venue hire space with terraces overlooking the iconic Millennium Square and Bristol Cathedral. 2011 sees Wallace & Gromit Inventor weekends, Toddler Takeover days and much more! Check the website for more information.
Services travel between Temple Meads and the city centre (calling at Cabot Circus) as well Hotwells and the city centre on our distinctive yellow and blue boats. Their most famous Public Trip for the winter is ‘Sail with Santa’, voted one of the top ten best venues to see Santa in the Guardian (2009). Christmas themed cruises provide a fun alternative for that office or group of friends, festive do and are all on covered heated boats. Private charters are very popular with birthdays and booze cruises proving top of the list. Quote ‘Shipshape Winter’ and receive a 10% discount off any of our 3 hour charters (excluding food- and drink-inclusive packages).
Bristol’s Tourist information Centre is located in E-Shed, next to the Watershed Media Centre. Services include accommodation bookings, ticket sales for events and attractions, and general advice and assistance on how to make the most of visiting, living in or travelling around Bristol. Find a range of gifts, souvenirs, books, maps and travel guides, and work by local artists. You can get up-to-the-minute travel information from Bristol City Council’s transport team and a wide range of travel leaflets and timetables are also available. A unique drop-in information point has also been created by the University of the West of England. Shipshape
shipshape directory
Wapping Wharf, BS1 6DS 0117 929 1696 Opening hours: Monday-Friday 8am-4pm; Saturday-Sunday 8am-5pm
Brunel’s ss Great Britain Great Western Dockyard, BS1 6TY 0117 926 0680, ssgreatbritain.org Opening hours: from 10am Closing: 5.30pm (27 March-31 Oct); 4.30pm (from 1 November) Last ticket sales: one hour before closing Open every day except 24 and 25 December, and 10 January
Colston Hall
Colston Street, BS1 5AR 0117 922 3686, colstonhall.org Opening hours: Box Office: Mon–Sat 10am6pm; H Bar café: Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 10am-9pm; H Bar Bistro: Daily 11.30am-3pm and 5-11pm
City Sightseeing
Information Hotline 09067 112191
Shipshape
Situated on the water’s edge between the ss Great Britain and the new Museum of Bristol, Brunel’s Buttery is something of a Bristol institution, serving up cheap, cheerful and very tasty lunches and stomach-filling snacks to the ravenous hordes. They’re famed for their chunky bacon sandwiches but you can customise your buttie by adding sausage, egg, cheese or mushrooms (or all of the above, if you’re particularly peckish). There’s also a selection of cakes and hot drinks for after. Take your food away or eat on the tables outside.
Descend under the glass ‘sea’ and step back in time in the Dockyard Museum! See, hear, touch and even smell what life was like for Victorian passengers and crew on board Brunel’s ss Great Britain. There’s plenty to do to keep everyone entertained at this multi awardwinning and fully accessible visitor attraction. Join the 40th anniversary celebrations of the ss Great Britain’s epic salvage from the Falkland Islands and return to Bristol. Events range from ‘The Incredible Journey’ exhibition and family trail to Ratcatcher’s Halloween and Victorian Christmas. Tickets provide free return visits for a year. To find out more, visit ssgreatbritain.org
Pic: David Noton
Brunel’s Buttery
Colston Hall is Bristol’s premier live music venue hosting a varied and regular programme of rock and pop, classical, leftfield and comedy events. In the past year Snow Patrol, London Symphony Orchestra and Grace Jones have all played at the Hall. In 2009, Colston Hall’s new foyer building was opened to the public. Built with £20 million from Bristol City Council and the Arts Council, the new foyer has improved the customer experience of visiting the Hall with audiences now able to enjoy their new café bar, restaurant and interval bars in light and spacious surroundings.
Hop on one of our bright red City Sightseeing buses with our 24 hour ticket (or 3-Day ticket) and let us show you the sights of this fascinating city, which is full of vitality and variety. Operating daily every 30, 45 or 90 minutes our guides will regale you with stories from pirates & princes to paupers, show you great churches, cathedrals and museums and our exciting harbourside, the jewel of which is Brunel’s ss Great Britain. A popular stop over is the gleamy gold Colston Hall entrance building, with it’s mix of eating and performance places, it’s certainly the ‘place to be’.
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shipshape directory
Glassboat Welsh Back, BS1 4SB 0117 929 0704, glassboat.co.uk january sale Two persons, Two courses each, One bottle of House Wine, Tea/Coffee only £30! Valid from 13th Jan-10th Feb from 5.30pm-7pm on our early evening menu. Opening hours: lunch: Tues-Fri 12-2.30pm; dinner: Mon-Sat 5.30-10.30pm; Sunday brunch: 10am-4pm
The Harbourside
1 Canons Rd, BS1 5TX 0117 929 1100
Lido Restaurant, Spa & Pool
Oakfield Place, BS8 2BJ 0117 933 9530, lidobristol.com Opening hours: restaurant: 12-3pm and 6.3010pm; spa: 7am-10pm; poolside bar: all day
The Matthew
When in Bristol check website for mooring location 0117 927 6868, matthew.co.uk
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Well-established and much-loved floating restaurant that’s been serving Bristol’s food fanatics for nearly 25 years and now boasting an entirely glass aft section. Beautiful views of Bristol Bridge and beyond, knowledgeable staff, an extensive wine list and a locally sourced, seasonal menu can all be found here. The lower deck can also be hired out for breakfast, lunch, dinner and half- or full-day events for up to 40. Take advantage of their Express Lunch menu: two courses for £10 (Tuesday to Saturday).
offer dine for less in our january sale
The Harbourside is a contemporary new addition to the wonderful waterside environment. Customers can relax in the comfortable surroundings and listen to classical music while enjoying a locallysourced meal and a glass of wine. Boasting a prime location on Bristol’s city-centre waterfront, the bistro offers a contemporary menu using the freshest ingredients as well as an oyster bar – unique to the area. The riverside lounge is open daily from 9am for great quality coffee, specialist sandwiches and much more. The Harbourside also has a shop selling teas, herbs and remedies.
A 21st century spa, restaurant and alfresco pool housed in beautifully renovated 19th century surroundings. The Lido originally opened its doors in 1850 and remained in business for over 100 years before falling into disrepair in 1990. The Glassboat Company saved the building from developers (who wanted to turn the site into flats) and restored the buildings to their former glory, reopening in November 2008. Find a heated, low-chlorine infinity pool, sauna and steam room, restaurant and poolside bar, and luxurious spa.
A magnificent replica of a Tudor merchant ship that recreated the Atlantic crossing by explorer John Cabot. He was searching for a sailing route to Asia but ended up “discovering” Newfoundland. Get the best views of Bristol harbour from the deck on one of their regular public cruises – fish and chip suppers on board are extremely popular – or you can venture down the scenic Avon Gorge under the Clifton Suspension Bridge. There are also offshore sailing opportunities and the ship is available for private hire – check website for sailing programme. Shipshape
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Myristica 51 Welsh Back, BS1 4AN 0117 927 2277, myristica.co.uk now available Tiffin boxes of Indian food to takeaway – £4.95 per box Opening hours: Mon-Fri 12-2pm (lunch), Mon-Sat 5.30-11.30pm (dinner), Sunday 5.30-10.30pm (dinner, last orders at 10pm)
the rummer
All Saints Lane, Old City, BS1 1JH Email: info@therummer.co.uk General Enquiries: 0117 9290111 Bookings: 0117 9294243
Spyglass Welsh Back, BS1 4SB 0117 927 7050, spyglassbristol.co.uk Spyglass has a non reservation policy for groups of less than 8. To book a table for a group of 8 or more please contact spyglassmgr@glassboat.co.uk or 0117 9277050 Spyglass closes for it’s Winter Break on 23 December and reopens in the Spring on 10 March Opening hours: daily 11am-11pm
Watershed
1 Canons Road, BS1 5TX 0117 927 5100, info@watershed.co.uk, watershed.co.uk, dshed.net Cafe/bar opening hours: Mon 10.30am-11pm, Tues-Thurs 9.30am-11pm, Sat 10am-midnight, Sun 10am-10.30pm
Shipshape
Having recently taken up residence on Bristol’s Welsh Back, Myristica joins a host of wellknown establishments delivering a five-star food experience along Bristol’s waterfront. You’ll find a delicious range of authentic, delicious regional Indian food served up by chefs from some of India’s top hotels. Specialities include pista murgh (chicken breast cooked in a mild cream sauce with ground pistachios and saffron) and prawn chettinad with Kerala paratha (black tiger prawns cooked with a roasted blend of fennel, peppercorns and curry leaves).
tiffin boxes to takeaway available now
One of Bristol’s favourite cocktail bars and dining rooms, The Rummer Hotel is a sophisticated venue serving a discerning clientele. An independent bar and restaurant with a passion for quality, the kitchen produces some of the best food to be found in Bristol, and the bar holds over 300 premium spirits from around the globe – the largest collection in the region. Boasting a classic, stylish interior, the Rummer provides a wonderful ambience and an intimate drinking venue. Open every day, with Head Chef Greg McHugh serving modern British food on his lunch and evening menus.
Spyglass is Bristol’s only Seasonal restaurant. Set on a contemporary 170-seater converted barge on Bristol’s Harbourside it is probably the busiest restaurant in the city during the summer months. In the Winter the powerful heaters come on and the menu reflects the change of season with plenty of winter warmers such as Hungarian goulash and Spanish chicken & chorizo casserole alongside Spyglass classics like lamb kebabs with harissa and cous cous and whole sea bass with lime chilli and coriander. Spyglass is currently taking bookings for Christmas Parties – starting at £15 for the set-menu (meze, main course & dessert).
Watershed is the perfect social space on Bristol’s historic Harbourside, showing the best independent films from across the world. With three cinemas to choose from and a welcoming, relaxed café/bar enjoying unique waterside views, it’s the ideal place to meet friends, enjoy a meal and watch a film. Come and try their Plot to Plate organic menu showcasing the tastes of the South West, or tempt yourself to a drink before or after a film. For detailed film and events listings, visit watershed.co.uk or head to dshed.net for an online gallery and creative content. twenty-nine
and finally...
1
The Finzels Reach development covers an area of over 1,000,000 square feet and is located on the former Courage brewery site
2
Courage brewery closed in 1999, prompting an 8,000-name petition from members of the Campaign for Real Ale (Camra)
3
10 things
Before Courage took over the site in 1961, George’s had been brewing there since 1788
... you never knew about the Harbourside’s latest multi-millionpound development, Finzels Reach
4
As reported in Shipshape, the development includes a state of the art pedestrian and cyclist bridge – Mobius Bridge (left) – which will link Finzels Reach with Castle Park. The bridge is expected to be finished by December 2012
5
The site is named after Conrad Finzel, the German-born owner of the Counterslip Sugar Refinery that was based on part of the site. The refinery was said to be the largest in the country and, at its peak, employed over 700 men
6
Archaeologists from Oxford Archaeology, CgMs and Bristol City Council have discovered a 13th-century wood-lined well, a crossbow trigger and a 12th-century string instrument called a rebec on the site. The excavation was the largest archaeological dig ever undertaken in the city centre
7 It will cost over £250m to complete
8
The Generator building, a historically protected part of the site, powered Bristol’s trams until the 1920s
9 thirty
10
Finzels Reach donated 500 mugs to St Peter’s Hospice to be sold for £1 in stores across the city – following in the footsteps of ‘The Good Conrad Finzel’, who reportedly gave at least £10,000 every year to Muller’s Orphanage in Bristol
The scheme includes 92 affordable housing units
Shipshape
CITY CENTRE LIVING FROM £127,500*
• With Easy Start you only need 5% deposit to get an affordable mortgage* • You own 100% of your home – and pay just 85% of the price now • We’ll give you an interest free loan for the remaining 15% for 3 years
1 & 2 BEDROOM APARTMENTS FROM £127,500 WITH EASY START*
GREAT WESTERN DOCKYARD Gas Ferry Road, Bristol BS6 6TY
Sales & Marketing Suite and Show Home open daily 10am to 5pm
Call 0845 676 0127 or visit lindenhomes.co.uk *On selected homes only, subject to scheme rules. Price correct at time of going to press.
GREAT WESTERN DOCKYARD
At Brunel’s ss Great Britain, Bristol.