DECEMBER 2014
CELEBRATING 135 YEARS AS CANADA’S PREMIER HORTICULTURAL PUBLICATION
VOLUME 64 NUMBER 12
MARKETING
Spend your silver on Canadian sparklers
Ontario’s VQA sparkling wine sales have increased by 60 per cent in the last fiscal year, reflecting two trends. First, consumers crave unique, locally-produced wines. But secondly, the quality of Canadian sparkling wines is appreciated by wine connoisseurs. Winemaker Mary McDermott (L) and wine scientist Belinda Kemp anticipate a taste test of the 2012 batch of sparkling wine at Trius Winery at Hillebrand, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. Photos by Denis Cahill.
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KAREN DAVIDSON Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. Shun the French Champagne. Ditch the Spanish cava. Go for the Canuck sparkler. Two years in the making, a flute of bubbles is well priced at $25 per bottle. Winemakers from British Columbia’s Blue Mountain winery, for example, to Nova Scotia’s Benjamin Bridge are now sprucing up their portfolios with sparklers. As they clink their glasses, they are toasting the very essence of Canada’s cool climate and soils. Sparkling wines, they realize, shine with early-ripening, high-acid, low-pH grapes. “It’s hard to compete in the world, but our winemakers are experimenting to bring a product to market that reflects our specific terroir,” says Laurie Macdonald, executive director, VQA program. She confirms that Ontario’s liquor board sales of domestic sparkling wines have doubled in the last five years.
To support the category, research is underway to strengthen the value chain from the vineyard to the consumer. The Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs and the University of Guelph have pledged $240,000 to the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI). The team comprises University of Guelph’s George van der Merwe and Brock University researchers of Debbie Inglis, Tek Thongpapani, Jim Willwerth and Belinda Kemp. Together, they are working with Chateau des Charmes and Trius Winery at Hillebrand in the Niagara peninsula. Their quest is to find a signature Ontario sparkling wine derived from different clones of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling grapes that are planted on different soil types. During the winemaking process, they’ll be looking at the foaming ability of each variety. They will also investigate how different yeast strains affect quality and sensory
characteristics. Since the aging time for sparkling wine is so long, they hope to finetune methods to bring the end product to market sooner after the second fermentation. Mary McDermott, formerly winemaker at Trius, has recently moved to British Columbia. Now stationed at Naramata, she plans to use her Ontario experience to expand the sparkling wine program at Township 7 winery. As she explains, it’s a laborious process starting with disease-free fruit of about 18° to 20° brix in the vineyard. Clusters are handpicked and put through a gentle press. Fractioning the juice results in the best base wine possible. Primary ferment occurs in either stainless steel or oak, depending upon the producer’s desired style. Once the base wine is prepared, yeast is added in a process called tirage. The wine is bottled and placed into cellars for a minimum of nine months where a secondary fermentation occurs
resulting in the bubbles that make sparkling wine unique. Once the wine has aged on its lees – deposits of dead yeast -the bottles are riddled. This means turning and tilting the bottles either manually or mechanically in an upright rack. This allows the sediment to collect in the neck of the bottle before disgorgement. At this point, the bottles are ready for dosage (pronounced doh-zahzh), topping up with a mixture of wine and sugar. The dosage recipe is tweaked by each sparkling wine producer. The winemaker checks for pressure, residual sugar levels and sulfur dioxide. “Understanding the scientific process is crucial, but it’s also important to have balance between creativity and that theoretical knowledge,” says McDermott.
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