FEBRUARY 2017
CELEBRATING 138 YEARS AS CANADA’S PREMIER HORTICULTURAL PUBLICATION
THEGROWER.ORG
REALITY CHECK
Brewing a job is a long slog
The dried female flowers of a perennial vine called hops are harvested once a year to be used as a flavouring or bittering agent in beer. In recent years, the craft beer movement has exploded but brewers have been slow to source local hops. Remi Van De Slyke was one of the first Ontario growers to experiment. Fifteen years later, he’s making progress with Railway City Brewery in St. Thomas. There’s been plenty of publicity about craft beer, but the question is how many jobs are really being created in this fledgling industry. Photos by Glenn Lowson.
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Section B: Ontario Fruit & Vegetable Convention
Volume 67 Number 02 P.M. 40012319 $3.00 CDN
KAREN DAVIDSON Long before craft breweries were hip, Remi Van De Slyke started to grow hops. It was a small venture. To be truthful, it was more like an experiment with about three acres on his Straffordville, Ontario farm. “Hops were not part of anyone’s vocabulary,” recalls Van De Slyke. “There was no agronomic information, there was no machinery.” Fifteen years ago, tobacco growers like Van De Slyke were looking for alternatives and he
was eager to reinvent the family farm. Ginseng became his biggest and most profitable crop with 50 acres, but he’s been coaching neighbours on hops too. In 2008, he bought a hop harvester and a pellet mill to help decrease labour costs. A good engineer could probably make this second-hand equipment better, but for now, it’s what he relies on to strip the cones from the vines in mid-August. The challenges are as high as the 18-foot trellises that hops twine around. Labour-intensive, hops require stringing, pruning
and hand-harvesting. His first growing site was too rocky for the posts that anchor the trellis system. Variety choices weren’t that well suited for the humid climate. Diseases such as powdery and downy mildew plundered the crop. Insects such as spider mites, aphids, Japanese beetles and leafhoppers all liked to take a bite -- together. Today, he’s working on his third growing site. With experience, his hopyard has expanded to eight acres. Van De Slyke is at the vanguard of a nascent industry that’s adapting
to the needs of customers. His modest acreage increase is due to one “believer” client: Railway City Brewery in St. Thomas, Ontario. Along with two other growers - Hay-Hoe Hops and V.Q.H. Hops – they are the local supplier of hops to this local brewery. “We are growing better hops and better beer,” says Van De Slyke. He’s teamed up with fellow grower Curtis VanQuaethem from V.Q.H. Hops, who is marketing to brewers across the province. Continued on page 3