In the Middle: Issue 2, 20/21

Arts Supplement of

The Gryphon

IN THE MIDDLE

Fashion - Blogs - Lifestyle

ISSUE 2

Music - Clubs - Arts - Culture

In the Middle

Contents In the Middle Associates Alex Gibbon

Stephanie Bennett

Music & Clubs

Elle Palmer

4

Clubbing with a disability

6

Reviews

5

LSDXOXO revolutionises with new EP

8

In the Middle with Dman

Fashion 10 Changing the routine with Ellie

13

12

The impact of AOC’s style; Savage x Fenty and male body diversity

14

Zebedee Management: The future of fashion

Goldstein

Aaron Philip: Uniting the industry

Arts and Culture 15 Artist spotlight: Disability History

Month edition; Who does a Banksy belong to?

16

20

House night-in meals; Ask Aunt Bonnie

17

The resurgence of reading: Reserved for the rich?

Faye Clayton Lizzie Wright Ruby Mae-McAuliffe

Emily Parry Owen Frost Phoebe Walker

Batman‘s battle; The Gryph-online: Top stream picks

Rory Yeates Sinead O‘Riordan

Anushka Searle

21

ROOTED: Feed your mind through nature

Beanna Olding Georgie Wardall Lucy Abbott

Cover design Art work by Kimberley Burrows “Abstract art from a blind perspective“ @gleamedart

2

Liam Cattermole

Delphie Bond

Blogs & Lifestyle Access: How far have we come and how far have we to go?

Ishmael Silvestro

Bella Wigley

18

19

Fern McErlane

Listen

Contents

Full Frontal

alex gibbon So, what’s changed since the last issue of ITM? Well, it’s getting more bitter, gloomier and each day is darker and darker. But enough about my outlook on life, let’s talk about the weather. As we approach the end of the year, I get to live vicariously through

Kylie Minogue - DISCO bearable, the Australian princess of pop has released this glittery ode to one of music’s most joyous genres. Kylie is certainly in her groove with sugar-rush camp and cynicism-free fun.

wear

Fringe Jackets Giddy up and put some Americana in your autumnal wardrobe with this must-have fashion staple. Say yee-haw and live the John Wayne/Bobbie Gentry fantasy you know you deserve.

see

tea like a 70s Coronation Street matriarch and, now I have randomly acquired a Cath Kidston umyummy mummy circa 2014 fantasy. Perhaps, I’ll start spending my days thinking about which prep school Otto and Hermione should be sent to and whether we should turn the old horse stables into an Airbnb. However, with all the

Meanwhile, Lockdown: The Sequel has laid bare the troubling North-South divide (i.e. furlough was only raised from 67% to 80% when restrictions became national) and online traction has been building up for the Northern Independence Party. Their Twitter account @FreeNorthNow outlines their aims of breaking away from the Westminster elite and creating a Democratic Socialist North. Am I emotionally robust enough for another referendum? Absolutely not. However, I would be lying if I said that I wouldn’t be proud to see Kerry Katona as our elected Head of State swigging a pint of John Smith’s singing “I Wanna Be Adored” as our national anthem. Although Hyde Park often feels like a North London satellite state, if you cut me, I will always bleed gravy.

illusion is soon shattered as I feel like I’m caught in a Scarface-style shootout every time I pop to Sainsbury’s Local.

I am writing this column a few days after Halloween; when apples are bobbed, when teeth are fuzzed from devouring cheap chocolate eyeballs and gummy spiders, when glitter and (hopefully) fake blood are found in places where they certainly shouldn’t be. This year’s festivities mainly consisted ing my annual deliberation on spending £149 on an online witchcraft diploma. To boot, I just want to take a moment to shoutout the lass who dressed up as an olive in homage to Georgia from Angus, Thongs and Perfect Snogging to dash round Brudenell Road: I hope you get everything you want in life and then some.

Unsurprisingly, the second national lockdown is upon us – cue us all taking to our doorsteps every Thursday evening to scream into the abyss by way of national catharsis. Not that I particularly need to be encouraged to stay indoors once the clocks change, but it would obviously be nice to have to option to be indoors in a cider-sticky pub booth or the bed of Mr. Anonymous Headless Torso from a certain gay “dating” app. Speaking of which, now indoor sex is off the cards for most of us and Yorkshire has recently been named the dogging capital of the UK, my advice would be to avoid Woodhouse Ridge after-hours for the foreseeable future.

Image:undraw.co

Meet the editors Witchcraft in Early Modern Queer History Spooky season is only over if you want it to be. Join Dr. Kit Heyam on 25th November for this online talk as they explore the relationship between the discourse of bewitchment and transgressive sexuality.

do

In each issue we will be getting to know a member of the team a little bit better. This time it’s the turn of Fashion Edior Bella Wigley What do you like to do in your spare time?

What has been your biggest achievement?

I started learning how to sew this year, so I’ve been trying to practice making my own clothes, and as an English Lit student, I’m always reading. Honestly though, most of my spare time is taken up by endless hours of TikTok scrolling – I’m actually addicted.

I went to New Zealand on my year out and did a skydive,

What has been your biggest fashion faux pas?

Bleaching my own hair in lockdown - there’s a reason people tell you not to do it yourself! I ended up with a horrible greeny-brown mess for weeks because all of the hairdressers were closed.

heights!

What is your most emabrassing moment?

I’m not sure what’s more embarrassing; winning this award or the (many) moments that lead to it. I managed to win both with absolutely no runners up at my sixth form leaving year and all my teachers – it still makes me cringe today.

What is your guiltiest pleasure? such an emo!

What is your dream job?

Make Soup Now the nights are closing in earlier, it’s time to invest in a hand blender and cook up some soup-erb winter warmers.

I used to want to be a scuba diver in primary school er I could – Halloween, world book day, you name it.

I even had a scuba diving party for my 10th birthday.

3

In the Middle

clubbing with a disability For many students, clubbing can be the highlight of their week, especially with Leeds’ unique place in Britain‘s nightlife scene. But not all experiences are equal; Jenny Unwin, who uses a wheelchair, tells us about the inequalities she’s faced on nights out due to her disability.

Image credit: Fruity

Like most students, I have experienced both epic and disastrous nights out, irrespective of my disability. However, I believe it would also be extremely naïve of me to argue that being in a wheelchair has no impact on my nightlife experiences. From facilities available (and their condition), to the attitudes and expectations of people around, there are a number

able-bodied.

I am Jenny, a medical student in my fourth year. I have a spinal cord injury meaning I am paralysed from the chest down and have been for about six and a half years now. I love going out with friends, having a few drinks and a bit of a boogie. I am especially partial to a Fruity Friday! Despite this, I do think I would put myself out there more socially if it were not for my disability. I cannot count the number of times I have been pushed backwards out of my completely between such a crowd of people that I have absolutely nowhere to go, never mind

myself making excuses for my lack of attendance.

is something they have to do for me. I also recognise that this is very unlikely to change anytime soon because clubs massively oversell tickets in order to create the claustrophobic

it out, as though having a disability should mean I am somehow less capable of achieving a

may be cliché, but disabled people are people too and only want to be treated the same as

thought went into how a comment may come across to someone just trying to enjoy the same experiences as everyone else. Just because my disability is visible does not mean it needs to be spoken about.

are helpful and considerate, however I have had more than a few negative experiences, like the time at Fruity where a bouncer nearly broke down the door of the disabled toilet because I was taking too long - try pulling up your trousers without the use of your legs when slightly was practically shouted off the premises for wheeling the wrong side of the barrier because

one if the Union allowed students with disabilities to use the back entrance leading to the way and it had been an emotional night. Toilets are also an issue. If a club has a disabled toilet, it is a huge bonus, however more often than not they are out of order or covered in vomit. The Beaverworks disabled toilet has had a broken lock for as long as I can remember.

These physical problems amount to me lacking independence on a night out, which causes a lot of anxiety for me.

4

how humiliating this was. However, like I said, most club staff are more than willing to help - shoutout to the bouncer at HiFi who restored my faith in their kind by lifting me down the stairs safely so I was able to party with my able-bodied pals.

In summary, none of these issues I have mentioned will stop me going out and having a good harder for me, Fin and the countless other students at Leeds with both physical and mental health issues. I hope next time you encounter someone with a disability on a night out, you think a little more about our feelings and perspectives.

Music and Clubs Music and Clubs

lsdxoxo drops revolutionary new ep

Image: magneticmag.com

naomi momoh

Image: GHE20G0TH1K

5

In the Middle

A LBU MS MACHINE

RÓ

ISÍ

N M URPHY

RÓ ISÍ N

w

“I feel my story’s still untold... but I’ll make my own happy ending…“ Róisín Murphy’s bombastic new album, adequately named Róisín Machine, doesn’t take any prisoners. From out of the dregs of a seven-month-and-counting-in-and-out-lockdown enters this album and its opening manifesto: making one's own happy ending. The opening track ‘Simulation’ exudes an untouchable effortlessness, strutting around the mantra this is a simulation up and down the buildups and drops, landing itself resolutely in the icy cold swelling synths that bleed into the comparatively held-back and peninto the compartments and gizmos that make up the ‘machine’, but few live up to the coolness and vitality of the opening track, which I unabashedly could listen to on repeat for hours and hours.

‘We Got Together’ is Róisín at her most rambunctious and punconviction; we MOVE together, we STEP together... yes Róisín, I will move and step with you too! I was especially looking forward to how the penultimate track ‘Narcissus’ would be treated, it being the only Róisín song I was truly familiar with before the album dropped. The transition into it did not disappoint – swirly strings in a psychedelic-disco-maelstrom, that naughty, naughty bass line, the hissing echoes... Narcissus... Narcissus... Róisín – I am indebted to you for brightening this glummest of Octobers.

Sure, some of the tracks drag out, but for the most part this record has more strong moments on it than weak.

Just put your headphones in and the lights off – why, you can almost imagine life back to normal a gain.

Dany Bowen Image: Guardian

K C R S

T A

Though summer is slipping away, some of us are sunny festival vibes; Greentea Peng provides all in her spiralling reggae-inspired number. Her lilting and silky this psychedelic music, with twinkling guitar weaving

still yearning for those new track ‘Revolution’, a sibilant vocals slide over through the dub sound.

Lyrically, it’s far from frivolous - the description for its music video reveals that this track is a response to the current social and political climate. “A result of recent turmoil: political, societal, and individual. 2020, a painfully transformative year for the collective. Revolution is a product of this pain and also the anger we’ve been struggling to move through, at the same time it represents the hope conjured.’“ Greentea Peng perfectly expresses her disillusionment through the yearning tone of this track, posing the question: ‘Feels like a revolution / But whose revolution?’

The track feels woefully short, leaving you wanting more perhaps this song, alongside its twin release ‘Hu Man’, is hinting at a Fern McErlane

86

GREENTEA PENG - REVOLUTION

Music and Clubs

WALLOWS REMOTE (EP)

constitute Remote provide the enthusiastic follow-up to Wallows’ acclaimed indie debut, Nothing Happens, which has been widely anticipated since early 2019. Recorded entirely throughout lockdown, the spirited EP is marketed as a sort of in-between compilation of creative ideas preceding their sophomore record.

Wallows kick off the project with the short but uplifting ‘Virtual Aerobics’, combining staccato, poppy piano notes with upbeat instrumentation, against Minnette’s familiar vocals: Hey there, safe travels / Read it, I unravel. The rap-esque segment midway welcomes the trio’s lighthearted side, and sets precedent for the album’s peppy tone. This energy is cemented by the hypnotising fuzz of the synth soundscape with the similarly upbeat ‘Dig What You Dug’ and ‘Talk Like That’. September saw the accompanying release of the comedic and retro-inspired music video, for which they enlisted the help of trusted friends and human cut-outs, in support of social distancing measures.

Their energy partially falls short with the fourth track: ‘Coastlines’, in which the tempo noticeably drops to allow for the comparatively meThe duo of mellower songs provide a welcome contrast to the LP’s chaotic rhythms, whilst retaining the band’s transition from indie to alt-pop territory, as premiered by their 2020 single, ‘OK’. This change in direction may thus allude to the direction of their second studio album.

Katie Brown

Image: La Maroquinerie

BONOBO HEARTBREAK

Heartbreak is the debut release on OUTLIER, the new label from Simon Green (better known as electronic giant Bonobo). The track sees him team up with fellow British DJ Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs with a physical release set for November 13th, along with b-side 6000 FT. As Orlando (TEED) notes that “now, more than ever, it feels important to be putting out dance music with deliberate acknowledgement of its history“, the single can be seen as a powerful homage to dance music of times gone by. Whilst the vocals are a sample of Christine Wiltshire’s line “I can’t take the heartbreak” in New York City disco classic ‘Weekend’ by Class Action, the strobe-laden video is a staunch nod to 90s UK rave. toward more club-focused work, with OUTLIER originally starting as a New York based events once painful and uplifting. As it spirals into an intoxicating breakdown we’re urged to let the track wash over and liberate us in that same way, even from the comfort of our living room sofas.

At a time where we can’t yet (safely) dance again, the track serves as a reminder of not just where we’ve been in terms of club culture, but also what we’ve got to come.

Alice Browne

7

In the Middle

“I use my autism to make my corner of the world a bit nicer” in the middle with dman Considering he is one of the friendliest and most well-known faces in the Leeds DIY Dance music scene, it’s not hard to see where Dman gets his reputation as a lovely local legend. Lifting up the sleeves of his T-shirt, he beams as he shows me his new tattoos: on one arm the digits 0113 (the Leeds area code) above a white Yorkshire rose; on the other a pair of cowboy pistols as a tribute to his love of country music. “My grandad raised me on those tunes. I just really love stuff like Johnny Cash and outlaw And it certainly seems like he has adopted this contrarian outlaw spirit for himself. and Friends, an event that raises money for local charity Sunshine and Smiles and aims to increase inclusivity in club spaces for those with disabilities. “There is a beautiful DIY scene in Leeds and it thrives but unfortunately the venues are typically not accessible and that’s a consequence of putting events on in smaller spaces when they cant afford to change that. I wouldn’t want those people to stop doing what they are doing but obviously with mainstream nights it’s in their grasp to become more accessible becauwhat does it take to run an accessible club night?

“We always make sure that our events are wheelchair accessible. There is also a separate space for people to use if the main room becomes too overwhelming with a couple of people in hi-vis vests – I’m usually one of them - for if someone feels

ople can feel familiar with the space. If we are doing a longer, family- friendly event in One my mates is partially-sighted and he has always had a lot of input with how very night. We usually go for a simple animation rather than overwhelming visuals so as not to take away from anyone’s experience. Making a night accessible is a process and we can’t do everything because disability is a spectrum but we try and do as much as we As impressive as this insight into what makes a nightlife space exclusive to those who

When I begin mention representation on event line-ups, he is proud to tell me about going to was Slut Drop because of the big feminine energy as that’s what I was used to growing up around. I was raised in a very queer environment, that was just what it slower than other minority groups. “There is not that many disabled DJs because in the same way there are for women, POC and queer people getting into DJing, there are just as many barriers for disabled people, if not more because of the physical

Music and Clubs

While we touch on the topic of family, Dman explains the decision to fundraise for Sunshine and Smiles, a Leeds charity that provides a support network for children and young people with Down’s syndrome and their families. His younger brother uses intensive care, multiple open-heart surgeries and reconstructive surgery on most of his organs. “We told got told he was going to die so many times. There was no support through the NHS for parents who just had a kid with Down Syndrome. How do know how to deal with that? Where are the resources to help you realise that the childhood of a kid with Down’s will be different form every other kid you have raised? Sunshin and However, with the pandemic pulling the rug from under thousands of once-stable lives, not least of those working in the Arts industry, the aforementioned cracks seem to be growing and Dman is no stranger to this. “This year has been very rocky. All the defence mechanisms that I had built up over years and years of living on my own as an adult ppeared. I got very little furlough and I kind of fell through the cracks a little bit. Luckily, I get disability living allowance which if I’d never had I wouldn’t have been able to that me as an autistic person enjoys DJing because I have control over the volume, I

has often made visiting venues a challenge. “I was undiagnosed until I was 19 but I was already working in a club by that point which was the only reason that I became comfortable going into those environments was because I had to work there. If I hadn’t

You would think that such a year of turbulence would take the spring out of anyone’s step, but Dman remains resolute. “I feel like all we can do at the moment is plan for when we can do things again. The North has always had to be on its own and to fend

“I’m not comfortable if there isn’t someone there who I can ask for help. If the lights are really intense and the music is really loud, I get really over-sensualised as I have

propelled him through the draining uncertainty of 2020. Amidst the many things he has in the pipeline are an upcoming country mix (the tattoo comes out again when he tells me this) for Threads Radio in London, a new show on recently-established Leeds-based station Alto Radio and a desert-island-discs-esque one-off based around accessibility and nightlife for Sable Radio. What’s more, he has already planning to launch a new event for the blessed day that clubs reopen: ‘Nothing but a D Thang’, a monthly celebration of hip-hop, RnB and Soul. However, as our conversation draws to a close, Dman is keen to bring the focus back to Disability History Month.

The frankness and candour Dman employs when talking about his condition is refreshing in society that links disability and shame by default. But it is clear that his diaresponses to telling people I am autistic is that I am too sociable or chatty to be autistic and this is just lots of people projecting their stereotypes onto me. Just because I have gone through a process and chosen to identify a certain way doesn’t mean

One of the biggest misconceptions is that people with autism always struggle with a lack of empathy but, if anything, we are hyperempathetic because we pick up on emotions so strongly. That’s why I can’t use the bus because I get too involved with people’s conversations and end up in tears about someone’s life who I have never met. At the same time, it gives me a unique perspective and an ability to be me. I look at it as a

8

“All I can say is that all anyone needs to do to make anyone’s life a bit easier is to think.

I know personally I really struggle with changing my perspective but if could even just for a little bit change your perspective to that of someone who is disabled and think what would make that person’s life a little bit easier. I know I can’t change the whole world, but I know I can change a little bit of it and make it nicer. And that’s all I can

Alex Gibbon

Music and Clubs

Images via DMAN

9

In The Middle

Changing the Routine with Ellie Goldstein Up and coming model Ellie Goldstein is only eighteen years old and already she is making history in the world of high fashion and beauty.

Goldstein was diagnosed with Down’s Syndrome at birth, but she never let narrow beauty standards prevent her from following her dreams. exclusively for people with physical and learning disabilities - and she has since become one of the most inspiring models in the industry, as a passionate advocate for disability representation. In clee, she tells The Gryphon about her experience of modelling.

It feels so amazing, I’m really proud to have represented the Gucci brand and hope other brands will follow.

My favourite thing about modelling is to be in front of the camera, to have my hair and makeup done, wear fabulous clothes and to see myself appear in magazines and on social media.

Follow your dreams and never give up!

The fashion industry needs to change, I have proved this by making the history books. Everyone who wants to be a model should be given the chance, whatever their disability, and fashion brands need to use all kinds of models.

My goals for the future are to appear on more front covers and to work for Gucci again!

10

Freya Alsop

Fashion

Aaron PHILIP:

uniting the industry Image: Dazed

Earlier this year, Moschino announced the face of their Fall/Win-

Aaron has continued to actively champion disabled and trans represen-

modelling campaign, but it marks something bigger than just personal success. As a Black, transgender and disabled model, this is also a momentous campaign for the disabled, Black and LGBTQ+ communities, signalling a change in the fashion and beauty industry.

agency…because there’s such little representation for disabled bodies, people with disabilities, and Black, trans women and femmes, -

del to sign with a major modelling agency, Elite Management. than Naomi Campbell, she has quickly become a name to remember in the modelling world. That year, Philip also featured in Miley Cyrus’ music video for ‘Mother’s Daughter’.

Even before her modelling career, Philip was outspoken about her experiences growing up in the Bronx as a teenager diagnosed with quadriplegic cerebral palsy; she published an autobiography ‘This

often marginalised communities and forcing the fashion industry to confront its prejudices about what is considered “beautiful”. kingly at the viewer, forcing them to directly address their own prejudices - all whilst channelling a „sexy, alien Marie Antoinette“.

high fashion houses. Aaron gives those who are often underrepresented in many areas of society- not just fashion- a voice through which they can be heard. She holds the door open for millions of others who are by division and prejudice, Aaron Philip brings unity, hope and couture.

Carmen Ghazi

Image: Dazed

Image: Dazed

11

Fashion

Images: Anna Ferguson

12

In The Middle

the impact of Aoc‘s STyLE Anna Ferguson explores the style of the youngest woman ever to serve in the US Congress Alexandra Ocasio-Cortez

Since her election in 2018, Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez has served as a massive inspiration for many – at 29 years old, she is the youngest woman ever to serve in the US Congress.

She has an active social media presence, the power of which was evident recently when a stream of her playing Among Us with a group of popular creators captured an audience of over 400,000. It is so refreshing to see a politician actually acting like a human, and this

white pantsuit, bright red lip and gold hoop combo that she wore for her swearing in ceremony is a winning one, and it had a bigger impact beyond just looking great.

Throughout history, red lips have been seen as a sign of dubious morality – associated with sexual promiscuity, prostitution or even witchcraft. In the Dark and Middle ages, they were a sign of collaborating with the Devil. Despite this, red lipstick has historically been a favourite of powerful women – Cleopatra, Elizabeth I and the Suffragettes, to name a few. Having been used as a weapon against women, and AOC to wear as she joined the ranks of women that the history books will remember.

and hoop combo has been a staple of Latina culture for centuries, and its association with working-class Latina women has led to racist stereotypes and mockery. AOC’s decision to don her hoops in congress is an impactful one in Trump’s America.

Alexandria tweeted after her appearance – “Lip+hoops were inspired by Sonia Sotomayor, who was advised to wear neutral-

Next they

time can

someone tells Bronx girls to take off their hoops, just say they’re dressing like a Congresswoman”.

Of the entire US Congress, only 22% is non-white. By publicly celebrating her heritage against the overwhelmingly white backdrop of Congress, AOC sets a precedent. She is changing the image of what a congress member can look like. As a result, she has had to endure her fair share of racist backlash – Fox News frequently attacks her heritage, with one of its guests, a University of Maryland professor, stating that her “Latin-American values” were going to destroy America. Attempting to conform to appease this bigotry was never an option for AOC, which is what makes her fashion sense so empowering.

Society’s need to police the appearance of women is still ever-present. In February, British MP Tracy Brabin was bombarded with sexual comments and accusations of unprofessionalism after wearing a one-shoulder dress to parliament. Young girls Daily Mail posts a new article every day about a different female celebrity’s body.

AOC’s loud and proud approach to her appearance is incredibly empowering, and it sends a message to young women that they should choose what own skin – not what a loud white guy on TV says they should wear. .

Anna Ferguson

Savage X Fenty and Male Body Diversity Rihanna recently received an abundance of online praise for promoting male body positivity and diversity in her latest collection for her lingerie line, Savage X Fenty. menswear capsule collection, for which she collaborated on with Christian Combs, rapper and son of Sean ‘Diddy’ Combs. Fans were excited to see plus-size male models being featured in the Savage X Fenty Vol. 2 fashion show and on the lingerie website.

For the last three years, Rihanna has been changing the game in the fashion industry in regards to inclusivity; she has consistently casted models of all sizes, races and gender identities and her underwear sizes range from XS to 4XL. This is a contrast from lingerie brands such as Victoria’s Secret which does not cater to plus-size women and only features very tall and slim models. Fans were excited to see that extends to men. A Twitter user shared screenshots from the Savage X Fenty website of a shirtless Steven Green, US size 2XL, modelling the new Savage X Fenty section on the website.

The presence of plus-size male models in the latest Savage X Fenty campaign spurred a conversation about the scarcity of male body diversity in the fashion world. Men from all over the world took to Twitter to vocalise how great it made them feel to see someone who looks like them modelling for a trendy underwear line. For example, Twitter user @codyjacobmusic said “Never in my adult life have I seen a male model that has a similar body type to mine…I feel almost emotional?

The standard male model that we typically see on clothing websites and in magazines is normally tall with a lean and athletic body. Unfortunately, we seldom see placed pressure on men to look like your typical athletic, lean model in order to be models who look like them, this can severely damage their self-esteem and make them feel as though their body is not good enough. As a society, we massively overlook the body image issues experienced by men and the body dysmorphia that can result from a lack of representation in the fashion world, paired with the

Rihanna has broken barriers and encouraged the progression of the fashion industry with her latest lingerie collection. However, it should no longer be considered ground-breaking or be a one-off surprise to see plus-size male models on fashion websites – this should be the norm. The presence of a diverse range of male body types in the fashion industry is essential because this is an accurate representation of the diversity that exists in the real world. It also sends the message to men that and that is perfectly okay – everybody is beautiful in their own way and deserves to feel like it. Men come in all heights, shapes, sizes and races, and this ought to be

world and the importance of introducing greater male body diversity into it.

Fiona Western

13

In The Middle

Zebedee management: the future of fashion Ellis Ellena Idris lent agency exclusively for those with physical and mental disabilities and the importance its role in the industry.

agency known as Zebedee Management is the

Zebedee Management

Image: Zeebedee Management

What we‘re loving this month: WINTER WARMERS Motel Rocks

14

Missguided

Weekday

Arts & Culture

Artist Spotlight: Disability history month edition

Alison Lapper Tony Heaton Sculptor Tony Heaton is associated with the disability arts movement, being awarded with an OBE to serviactivism greatly inspires his art; creating such works as ‘Great Britain from a Wheelchair’ and ‘Monument to the Unintended Performer’, a Through his work, Heaton attempts to play upon the value judgments able-bo-

Ash Atalla Behind some of the UK’s most treasured sitcoms and mockumentaries is producer on programmes such as The thing, Trollied, Cuckoo and , Atalla has really blessed modern British comedy and has mastered bleeding laughs out of the lla often speaks out about industry issues surrounding diversity and holds is comedy at arm’s length from

Subject of one of the most controversial sculptures in recent memory, ‘Alison Lapper Preg-

Stephen Wiltshire

which depicts Lapper preg-

a cityscape, Stephen Wiltshire is tailed drawings of them, often doing so on a very large sca-

controversy came from its placement and subject: Lapper has a condition called phocoture was placed on a plinth in Trafalgar Square for two years, diversifying the depictions of the human form classica-

speaking, drawing was a way in which Wiltshire communicated -

also featured in BBC documentary Child of Our Time in which she discussed her childhood as someone with a challenges of raising an able-

Where does a Bansky belong?

Bansky’s latest, an image of a girl hula-hooping, has recentthe assumption that what is in there is important, regardless -

ignore, however, who has put the artwork there or deemed it med the works in a gallery, and contributed to the sanctity of

Part of the reason why there is no simple answer is due to how Banksy problematizes the associations of a gallery or museum

art included are often informed by very arbitrary values that -

-

Some might argue that a Banksy is different to “normal” However, there is a problematic valuing system at work ble social or political message creates a double-standard boundaries of what “art” is and is not are being constant-

We can see how a clear intersection is formed between these colonial tensions and the “othering” of most of us - who acutely feel the invisible limits around art when we are tauBanksy’s acceptance as a *legitimate* artist, therefore, points lf-selected bounds of the art world - particularly when the rest gallery space simply reinforces the elitist forces that shape our It remains to be seen, now that Banksy has surely realised his status in the art world, whether he is appropriating the confrom Banksy, however, there is still a lot more work to be done in challenging the valuing processes, and double standards, -

15

Mia Fulford Images:: The Independent, Buzzfeed, BBC

Christy Brown Most famous for his autobiography which inspiChristy Brown was an Irish artist and author, who was forced to paint using only the toes of his left foot due to the challenges arising from having cerebral sciousness novels have ly important in capturing the brogue of Irish literature, being thought of equal

In The Middle

Original Photography by Maariyah Fulat

14

Arts & Culture

The Resurgence of Reading: Reserved for the Rich?

-

-

-

-

Image: IMDb

-

-

Image: Pexels

Esme McGowan

17

“

To read a book, to be transported in space and time, to see your experiences reflected on the page, to experience something entirely unfamiliar, is magical.

“

In The Middle

Batman‘s battle: cinema’s super-saviour from COVID? -

Reeves’

-

-

-

-

-

Lizzie Wright

Image: NME

The gryph-online: The arts and culture editors‘s top stream picks Synecdoche, New York This is is a weird one to wrap your head around. It‘s about a play, with all linear -

Serial podcast listener but always wishes he was, I could not reroughly absorbing. Each series -

a bit stupid and there‘s so-

later series past series one howe-

Sinead O‘Riordan

Owen Frost

18

BLOGS & LIFESTYLE

Blogs & Lifestyle

Access: How far have we come and how far have we to go?

Disability History Month is celebrated between the 22nd November and the 22nd December, but it should not end there.

The theme of Disability History Month this year is access, which is a major factor in allowing a disabled person to live their life as independently as possible by reducing barriers which exclude them. This ranges from treatment, education, transportation, workplace and representation in the media, the list goes on. It is imperative to recognise every type of disability, from invisible disabilities to mental disabilities, that affect the young and the old.

As the child of a blind parent, I witness the daily struggle of navigating a world made for able-bodied people. Not only in movement, but also in treatment, with strangers assuming it is okay to physically touch blind people to help them when no help was requested, as well as assuming that blind people have a lower mental capacity just because of their disability. These are just a few of the many misconceptions that plague daily life for those who are blind.

It is so easy to take your body and mind for granted. Until you see someone else's struggle or experience it yourself, it is unsurprising that access is an issue that may not cross your mind. Accessibility has come a long way in the UK, with many unaware of how the most popular inventions which assist those with disabilities came around and the exciting advancements that are to come. Here is a short history and progression of three commonly used aids.

Image credit:UKDHM.ORG

The Wheelchair

of 22 after having broken his back as a child. The three wheeled wheelchairs were invented well before the bike, with many saying that this wheelchair was well ahead of its time.

Throughout the nineteenth century, many adjustments were made to allow the wheelchair to be more comfortable, and an independent experience for the user - including the invention of push rims. The most revolutionary advancements in wheelchair design is the stair climbing ‘Scewo’. It’s retractable set of rubber tracks allows the user to easily navigate staircases. By completely scrapping the traditional design of the wheelchair, which has been around for centuries, it allows wheelchair users a level of freedom that has never been seen before.

The White Cane sighted people use to get around. The most popular believed creator of the white cane is Artist James Biggs of Bristol, who in order to draw attention for both people and cars around him of his visual impairment, painted his stick white. The use of the white cane then spread across the echo detection. This allows the user to create a stronger mental map of the world around them.

Speech Therapy Although the need for speech and language therapy has presumably been around since time century and was mainly done by self-taught elocutionists, or those in the medical profession to be employed by health establishments like the NHS. Technology has allowed speech targets those with brain damage with high intensity images to target the nervous system.

Lucy Abbott

Image: youtube.com

In The Middle

House Night-in Meals What better comfort food to indulge in on a cold autumn evening than a bubbling dish of lasagne, served deliciously with garlic bread. Utter bliss! Granted, this one takes a bit more time to prepare and cook but, trust me, the end result will be so worth it. A real crowd pleaser.

What’s not to love about fajitas?! They’re so quick, so easy to make and, most importantly, they taste delicious! Pair with your own guacamole and salsa, or shop-bought ones if you‘re feeling lazy.

Image Credit: Kitchen Sanctuary

Image credit: The Stay at Home Chef

probably already got all the ingredients lurking in the back of the cupboard

Apparently all students live off is pasta. As much as this is far from the truth, who doesn’t love a good pasta bake oozing with melted cheese?

Again, this is so easy to make and I can guarantee a good reception from your housemates!

Image Credit: Kitchen Sanctuary

Image credit: Baking Mad

try on a student budget and timetable.

One of my personal favourites is a house curry night. There are so many curries to choose from, so why not try a new one every month? Or, why not make a variety, with a spread of naan, poppadoms and samosas. It’s so much cheaper than a takeaway and a great shout for vegan diners.

All recipes can be found on Kitchen Sanctuary, except the pancake recipe which can be found on Baking Mad. We’d love to see what you come up with. Tag us on Instagram @itm_thegryphon with your creations!

Image Credit: Kitchen Sanctuary

ASK AUNT BONNIE I would recommend washing your bedsheets once a week if you are organised! Although I am sure it would be okay to leave a few weeks between washes.

I can imagine this is a horrible feeling. If they are reasonable people or you know them well, try to bring it up in a non-confrontational style and have a productive discussion on what the issue is. Especially with covid-19 keeping us all indoors, it is important to have a good home situation. Try to be the bigger person!

Make a dedicated study space in your room! Make sure it is tidy and you have everything you need to hand. Try to only go to this space when you are studying or in online lectures. Plan out your day, including your online uni lectures, so you can tick off tasks and feel productive! Don’t feel guilty if you are not being as productive as usual – this is a strange time for us all!

Go for walks! The canal in Burely Park is such a nice walk to do together.

Maybe to break up a day of lectures you could all bring your lunch to the park and take some cute photos! For fun, you could recreate a club experience in your living room, or a different club in different bedrooms!

If you feel like you are starting to develop unhealthy eating habits then perhaps start to make a conscious effort to plan your meals for the day. If you make sure you are eating 3 solid meals with some healthier snacks, then you will feel better in yourself! Don’t feel guilty about treating yourself though and listen to your body!

Make sure you are still getting fresh air! Whether this is simply opening your window or sitting in your garden. It’s also so important to eat well if you are self-isolating – make sure you are getting your 5-a-day. Communication are not alone. Maybe take this time to catch up and call old friends! It is important to think in the long term – you will be out of self-isolations soon and maybe plan some covid-friendly activities once you are out!

Image credit: Public Domain Files

Images of Mahogany Market by Maariyah Fulat

20

Blogs & Lifestyle

Logo: Stella Patsikas

Rooted: Feed your mind through nature

“

“

The next pandemic is going to be mental health - Ruby Wax

This pandemic has impacted mental health across all generations. Loneliness and isolation existed before the pandemic, but now symptoms are no longer merely associated with the elderly. As students moving into a second lockdown and coming up to mid-term assignments, our adrenaline levels are ever-increasingly under conditions of anticipation, unpredictability and stress. It feels as though worsening mental health is a virus itself that is also catching. Ruby Wax warns the government to prepare for a tsunami of mental health, post-pandemic. So, as the country transitions into another lockdown, we’ve dug deep to uproot and offer some mechanisms that can be put into place to boost body and mind.

This week ROOTED offers an addition to the monotonous daily triad of Gym, Library and Home – one which you don’t have to book a table for or spend your depleting loan on.

Bedford Fields Forest Garden – the precious community resource you didn’t know about.

Hyde Park has one of the lowest ratios of greenspace to grey built-up environment in the entire country. And yet, as you turn onto Woodhouse street, munity-driven forest garden in which all plants are either medicinal or edible.

Six years ago, this garden was envisioned and created by Joanna Dornan in association with the Leeds Permaculture Network. Serving the local communities of LS6’s Woodhouse and Hyde Park, the hidden space has paths which meander through apple and raspberry fruit tree orchards, past eco-ponds and permaculture plantations, and is complete with a grape-vine- covered compost loo.

A green-wood building that resembles an open-walled yurt, with a ‘living roof’, is a welcoming space to sit and take in the cacophonous birdsong – an experience one wouldn’t ex-

Illustration: Amabel Barlows

structures which maximises vertical space, whilst also making the garden resilient and wild, explain how this naturally balances insect populations, and creates hedgerows which many

Though the Woodhouse parkland provides a great opportunity for a therapeutic run/ walk during golden hour, there is something more restorative about sitting down aims “to educate volunteers and the local community about forest gardening and wider environmental issues through workdays, workshops and discussion”. It is a wonderful example of how community-driven green space can be resilient to both climactic and social change.

The garden is full of what would commonly be considered ‚weeds‘, but volunteers insist that these are “perfectly edible and delicious”, and that we are “welcome to harvest these at any time”. When ROOTED visited, we decided to pick some rosemary and mint – perfect for adding to roast potatoes, and so much cheaper than buying peppermint tea! Just take along an old jam jar, Tupperware or plastic container, and pick whatever you know you’ll use up.

Illustration: Amabel Barlows

21

Image: Geeta Wedderburn

In The Middle Though the Woodhouse parkland provides a great opportunity for a therapeutic run/walk during golden hour, there is something more restorative about sitting down amongst this ‘urbalised’ space of Bedford Fields, which brings ‘rural life to the city’.

Bedford Fields is not just a meditative urban forest garden, but an educative one too. The project aims “to educate volunteers and the local community about forest gardening and wider environmental issues through workdays, workshops and discussion”. It is a wonderful example of how community-driven green space can be resilient to both climactic and social change.

The garden is full of what would commonly be considered ‚weeds‘, but volunteers insist that these are “perfectly edible and delicious”, and that we are “welcome to harvest these at any time”. When ROOTED visited, we decided to pick some rosemary and mint – perfect for adding to roast potatoes, and so much cheaper than buying peppermint tea! Just take along an old jam jar, Tupperware or plastic container, and pick whatever you know you’ll use up.

We use the App ‘Picture This’, which is like having a botanist in your pocket. The you get home, and never eat anything you’re not one hundred percent certain of!

When the library feels stale and high intensity exercise at the gym isn’t ofat purpose to a mindful walk which would otherwise feel awkward or pointless, and there’s something deeply gratifying about returning home with something that you can continue to use and share with your housemates.

Image: Geeta Wedderburn

Natural Images vs Our Screens:

The constantly changing and shifting images of virtual screens don’t allow time for our brains to grasp the detail that they display. We haven’t evolved in an environment or way that is used to, or facilitates, the rapid cognitive shifts, responses and reception that screens demand, let alone at the rate and time spent facing a screen with online learning. Put simply, screen time is stressful, and looking to nature offers respite.

‘Shinrin-yoku’:

Crucially, though, Bedford Fields welcomes anyone to come and contribute to the garden, and organises tours, workshops, workdays and other events where “further insights into this natural and sustainable art of gardening can be explored”. (Bedford Fields Community Garden)

Geeta Weederburn

Image: Geeta Wedderburn

Why We Need Trees – The Science Trees & Hormones:

Trees and plants have been proven to emit phytoncides – almost like pheromones, these gasses repel and fend off bacteria and fungi. This, combined with the cortisol-reducing effects that these pheromones have been proven to have on the body, means that taking a trip to Bedford Fields, Meanwood Forest or even just sitting on a park bench in Hyde Park, could actually boost the immune system.

Image: Geeta Wedderburn

22

Illustration: Zoe Beckley

IN THE MIDDLE