Arts Supplement of
The Gryphon
In the Middle
Fashion - Blogs - Lifestyle
Music - Clubs - Arts - Culture
In the Middle
Contents In the Middle Associates Anushka Searle
Ishmael Silvestro
Music & Clubs 4
Black British Babes: 7 female MCs we need to be listening to
Ben Forrest
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Live review: Bukky Leo & Black Egypt
Jay Fullarton
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Behind the Scenes with Iyesha
Liam Cattermole Roxanna Zoughi
Fashion 8 9
Lewis Hamilton Gives Black Designers a Seat at MET Gala Table
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Appropriation or Appreciation?
Hannah Daddral
Rising Contemporary Black Designers
Arts and Culture 12
Beth Wright
Representation Matters in the MCU Universe
Emma Rives
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Books by Black Female Authors You Should Know About
Mia Fulford Owen Frost Sinead O‘Riordan
Blogs & Lifestyle 14 15
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Lessons to Learn on Your Journey Towards Allyship
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Celina Tran Leeds Black History/Blackowned Eateries
Chloe-Nicole Arnold Lauren Woodley
Uni of Feeds
Niva Yadav
Front Cover
Back Cover
Illustration by Jameliah-Katherine Adekunle @juxtajams
Illustration by Georgia Rose @georgia.rose02
Contents
HOT stuff
Ishmael silvestro My complicated relationship with Carrie Bradshaw I’ve recently become obsessed with Sex and the City. The show epitomises mainstream feminist thinking of the late nineties and early noughties, and in its own heavy-handed way, dealt with some of the most prevalent and yet quietly taboo issues that faced women and men during that time: breaking down the institution of marriage; exemplifying the courage of single motherhood; promoting the liberation of women’s sexual power. The reason why I mention this is because of the character of Carrie Bradshaw. Despite being superficial, often narcissistic and alarmingly mediocre as a writer, Carrie remains to this day one of the most famous columnists in existence. I find it incredible that a show with such ambitious goals in creating a show for women about women can revert to such surface-level explorations through the eyes of Carrie and her wealthy, white friends. Coupled with the more problematic ideas advocated in the show and the frequent hollowing out of characters to lazy and awkwardly fitting stereotypes, it sometimes feels hard not to decry the whole show as a stain on the advancement of progressive popular culture. It’s hard, then, when writing a column, not to feel like Carrie Bradshaw. I want to set my aims high – to bring powerful subject matters to the fore, to extol the virtues of my thoughts and gush out endless words of wisdom for the rest of time – but I find my thoughts regressing back to the simplistic and mundane. What plays on mind from moment to moment isn’t the many existential horrors currently plaguing modern society, but the
horribly self-centred and trivial issues that routinely affect me. Thinking about Carrie and then back again to myself, I couldn’t help but wonder: in trying to soak up the problems in our own everyday lives, when is it that we become too self-absorbed? It can be difficult not to feel guilty when obsessing over our own issues, and I am often frustrated at myself for overthinking events in my own life, especially when they are reduced to nothing when placed in comparison to the bigger picture of modern society. This week, for example, I was unfortunate to overhear some racist chanting when leaving a pub in Headingley: a begrudging football fan stating they would rather “be a P*ki then a Saudi” in response to the recent takeover of Newcastle United. Whilst me and my friends did pull up this man on his comments, I felt myself freezing up in my own troubles. I felt too awkward to fully approach the situation, too unconfident to call out his claim that “it wasn’t racism, it was just football”. I even noticed myself apologising to his more regretful friend that we had started this confrontation. I allowed my shyness to get in the way of taking the proper course of action, and for a time, I felt so disappointed in myself for not saying more. I feel, however, that it’s reflecting on our own issues that allows us to think about the issues of others – an important step of action that is often omitted by Carrie Bradshaw. It is only through fixating upon clumsy interactions at parties and embarrassing conversations with romantic partners that I even felt confident enough to timidly voice my opinions to a total stranger. I hope, then, with this issue on Black Liberation that we are all able to take a little time to help ourselves, in order to get us into a place where we are then able to help others.
R E S O U R C E S A G A I N S T R A C I S M BOOKS to read • • • • • • •
Organisations to support • • • • •
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COMFORT THOUGHTS
Anushka Searle
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Saying ‘Yeehaw!’ to mini wins
As a Uni of Leeds graduate and current masters student, I am here for the ride with you and hopefully, the mountains of advice and entertainment from our little paper can help you on your way, as it did for me. Whether you’re searching for some healthy procrastination or some fashion inspiration, we’ve got lots for you to love in this issue. Plus, a few of the editors and I have started Bear’s Book Club – yes, it is super wonderful and wholesome. If you would like to procrastinate with us, you can find us
The Black Curriculum - tackling the absence of Black History in the UK curriculum Black Mind Matter UK - improving access to free mental health support for Black individuals and their families Racial Justice Network UK - challenging racial injustice through activism, research and training Stand Up to Racism - campagining and mobilising against racism Stop Hate UK - spreading awareness and understanding of hate crimes and discrimination and offering support to any victims Young Historians Project - organisation empowering young historians of African and Caribbean heritage
Helplines to call •
The night comes quicker; the wind is bitterly cold; the pumpkins are out in Aldi; it is officially spooky season. The fun autumn festivities of Halloween, Bonfire Night and Leeds’ Light Night are fast approaching, and peop l e have even started using the apprehensive ‘c’ word. But for us students, this season arrives with the ultimate scare…our first assignments.
Between the World and Me - Ta-Nehesi Coates Biased: Uncovering the Hidden Prejudice That Shapes What We See, Think, and Do - Jennifer Lynn Eberhardt Black and British: A Forgotten History David Olusoga The Fire Next Time - James Baldwin How to Be an Antiracist - Ibram X. Khan So You Want to Talk About Race - Ijeoma Oluo Why I’m No Longer Talking to White People About Race - Reni Eddo-Lodge
on Facebook and our first book for October is My Sister, the Serial Killer by Oyinkan Braithwaite. As I am writing this, I have a chai candle (absolutely divine and from TK Maxx) next to me and I have just finished watching Bake Off’s dessert week. I point this out because it is important that, as we enter the months where SAD thrives and loneliness and the pressure of uni truly starts to hit, we remember to do small things that will bring us joy. Now, I’m not going to spout that ‘self-care’ is going to cure your depression, but I know from experience that if you allow yourself to just stare at the wall and not occupy your time, it will only make daily functioning more difficult. So, say a big fat yes when your friend asks you to do something, a hell yes to that movie you’ve been meaning to watch, and a yeehaw to all those mini wins; I promise you will thank me later.
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Call Hate Out - hotline for young people experiencing or witnessing a hate crime - 0808 801 0576 Mind - mental health charity - 0300 123 3393 National Bullying Helpline - providing support to victims of bullying in any setting - 0300 323 0169 The Samaritans - emotional support and suicide prevention - 116 123 Stop Hate UK - hotline for adults experiencing or witnessing a hate crim 0800 138 1625 Image: Adobe Stock
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In The Middle
Credits (left to right): Repeat Mag, Wonderland, Line of Best Fit, Wordplay
7 Homegrown Female MCs We All Need to Be Listening To. I have a weird thing about terms like ‘underground rapper’ and even ‘female rapper’ because when we throw them at artists, it‘s often disingenuous, and I believe it’s used more for our own personal virtue signalling: if we spend more time saying X rapper is underrated than we do listening and supporting them, then it’s a problem. The music industry owes black women so much more but often we are so caught up in semantics we lose focus on the actual music. This month in particular is the perfect time to champion women in the UK rap game, who shine through a very much flawed scene, often regarded for having heavily misogynistic lyrics. Lyrics which are casually overlooked but which reflect the rooted sexism in our wider society. Everyone should diversify their listening. Image credit: Fruity
1. Little simz On my personal list of top five UK wordsmiths, and I’m not just talking female rappers, is definitely Little Simz, who has reached new levels of artistry this year. Forever one to deliver a solid body of work, I just feel she is so technically skilled and so well-versed in stringing words, whilst switching up her flows, that she ensures there is always something creative and new when you hit play.
2. BXKS
Play: the album ‘Sometimes I Might Be Introvert’
A real breath of fresh air on the UK scene, BXKS always delivers a distinct flow and super cool visuals, which consistently push at any creative boundaries put in front of her. I always appreciate when someone brings a new flair to the supposed antiquated genre of grime. Sonically, there is no one making music like her right now. Play: the singles ‘Must Feel’ and “Packed In’
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Music and Clubs
3. ShaSimone A British-born Ghanian rapper, you can definitely hear and see the West African influence in ShaSimone’s tracks and visuals, but what I believe sets her apart from the crowd is razorsharp lyricsm. She penned one of my all time favourite bars: “A star Babe but I didn’t go to Brampton ‚‘ and her feature on Dave’s ‘Both Sides of a Smile’ is also a great example of her versatility as an artist. Play: her latest single ‘Back To Sender’
4. Ivorian doll With a particularly strong social media presence, I think Ivorian Doll is often overlooked in terms of her musical ability as people tend to focus more on the drama surrounding her releases. Mind you she is not one to hold her tongue… in or out of the booth. It would not be a reach to say IVD is the Queen of Drill. This is her doll house and we are all living in it. Play: Her Daily Duppy freestyle
5. Shaybo Shaybo’s Nigerian heritage has a clear influence on the themes we hear in her music, even in the lyrics there will often be Yoruba lines so expertly woven into the fabric of the track. A commanding presence on every track she graces, her storytelling compels unremitting attention from the listener. Shaybo’s rap skills are undeniable. Play: the album ‘Queen of the South’
6. Cristale Only in the nascent stages of her career, I have just recently discovered Cristale, but trust me, I’ve been hooked ever since. South London’s finest, Cristale has dropped a series of hardhitting singles and freestyles. Her ‘Next Up?’ on the platform Mixtape Madness is definitely one to note: punchlines, wordplay, flows… she’s got it all. Play: her Charlie Sloth’s Hood Heat Cypher vol.02 freestyle
7. Enny I think a lot of people will be familiar with Enny’s track ‘Peng Black Girls’ and especially the remix with Jorja Smith. Enny is particularly talented in getting such beautiful messages across in her music. Her music videos perfectly convey a sense of community spirit which is nostalgic to me but also heartwarming and uplifting in a way that isn‘t overcooked. A very gentle balancing act to achieve. Play: the EP Under 25 Image credit GHE20G0TH1K
Words Bridget Eke Credits on this page (top to bottom) Dummy, Trench, Deezer
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In The Middle
Bukky Leo & Black Egypt: The Legend of William Onyeabor Live at Belgrave Music Hall & Canteen 10.10.2021 On Sunday night, Belgrave Music Hall was filled with the funky and infectiously joyous tunes of Bukky Leo and Black Egypt, as they performed their renditions of some songs by the great William Onyeabor. William Onyeabor was an incredible artist who produced synth-driven funk music in Nigeria in the 70s and 80s. Very little is known about the life of Onyeabor, but his music was recently thrust into the Western mainstream when David Byrne’s record label Luaka Bop released a compilation album entitled Who Is William Onyeabor? in 2013. The compilation marked the first instance of Onyeabor’s music being reissued, and the album achieved widespread acclaim – NPR even listed it as one of the greatest albums of 2013. As previously stated, not much is known about Onyeabor himself but there is no shortage of rumours circulating online; one of the most widespread being that he studied film in the Soviet Union and brought synthesisers back to Nigeria with him, although Onyeabor told Eric Welles Nyström (who works with Luaka Bop) that he studied record manufacturing in Stockholm and purchased synthesisers in Italy – nothing seems certain when it comes to Onyeabor, it is unclear what is fact and what is legend. One thing that is certain, though, is that William Onyeabor was an unbelievably talented musician who was far ahead of his time. To produce the music that he did, at a time in which synth-based music was still very much a new thing in the West, in Nigeria and moreover to record, produce and press that music with his own facilities is almost unbelievable. Much of Onyeabor’s work still sounds as though it is the future of music, even now, which is surely a testament to the originality and vision of his music. Onyeabor is said to have become a born-again Christian in the late 1980s, refusing to speak about him or his music again. After the Luaka Bop compilation was released, Noisy released a 30-minute documentary about Onyeabor in which he repeatedly refused to be interviewed. It was only in December of 2014 (37 years after the release of his first album) that Onyeabor took part in a radio interview for BBC 6Music. Tragically, the world lost William Onyeabor in early 2017. The music, however, lives on and will continue to do so thanks to people like Bukky Leo. The fantastically talented saxophonist who found fame among London’s acid jazz scene in the 1980s, now tours the country with his band Black Egypt celebrating the legend of William Onyeabor and introducing those funky tunes to a new audience. At Belgrave Music Hall & Canteen, Bukky Leo and Black Egypt took to the stage and performed their renditions of some of the best loved William Onyeabor hits – including ‘Fantastic Man’ which you may recognise as it recently featured on the soundtrack of the third series of Netflix’s ‘Sex Education’. Although the crowd was somewhat sparse given it was a Sunday night performance, the positive energy in the room was unmatched. Everybody was smiling, everybody was dancing, it truly felt like a celebration of great music and, of course, William Onyeabor. As you would expect from a band fronted by Bukky Leo, the musical talent onstage was palpable – every section of the band performed so perfectly, yet their performances also felt as though there was a sense of improvisation and unpredictability. The horn section, in particular, was something to behold; it felt as though every note was speaking directly to your soul. As is to be expected of a show centred around the work of Onyeabor, the synth was an integral part of the performance and it was played masterfully. The two backing singers were mesmerising and definitely set the tone for the concert, their dance moves would even put Saturday Night Fever-era John Travolta to shame. It would be an impossible task to be in the presence of such a band and not feel an overwhelming need to dance. William Onyeabor never performed live, even if he did you would probably only have a chance of witnessing it if you lived in Enugu, Nigeria in the 1970s, but it was a wonderful experience to hear these songs performed and shared within a live music environment. Bukky Leo & Black Egypt are releasing an album of their Onyeabor renditions at the end of October entitled Bukky Leo & Black Egypt presents The Legends of William Onyeabor, which was recorded live at the Jazz Café, Camden, in 2018. Advanced copies were sold at the Belgrave show which means the Gryphon can wholeheartedly recommend picking up a copy of the album upon its release, it captures not only the brilliance of both Onyeabor and Bukky Leo’s work, but also the absolute happiness conveyed by hearing those songs in a live environment. Onyeabor stated in his BBC interview, “I only composed the type of music that would help the world”, with the joy that his music has brought to the world, and the good times being brought by Bukky Leo and Black Egypt to venues up and down the country, there is surely a world of truth in that statement.
by Benjamin Forrest
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Images: Wilfilms Ltd (left) Andrew Clugston (right)
Behind the Scenes with Iyesha
Music
Alex Gibbon talks to the Leeds-based DJ, radio presenter and party starter about DIY dancefloors, safe spaces and the fun and freedom of Queer clubbing.
Tell us about how you discovered your love for dance music and DJing.
I think I’ve always been inquisitive about dance music; I grew up listening to a lot of house music because my uncle is an old house head and was always so eager to share his love for it with me. However, I only properly discovered my love for electronic dance music when I started uni - I was going to a lot of really rubbish fresher events in my first half of first year (as most do), and realised I was stuck in a culture of white, heteronormativity which I absolutely hated. I wanted to find a space that I was able to feel fully comfortable in as a black queer woman, and I found this in the DIY party community. The most pivotal night for me especially was my first Love Muscle, it’s aptly described as a ‘pumping queer dance party’ and is run by the lovely Michael Upson. I honestly have no words for my first love muscle – it was the most beautiful experience 19-year-old me could have. It really catapulted me into the Queer community and from there the ball kept rolling. As well as Love Muscle events like Slutdrop, Flesh in Tension and The Party Mom Society were pivotal in creating a safe space for me to exist in. I was also deeply and purely obsessed with the music and, delving into ballroom, footwork, techno and trance genres. I started mixing with my housemate before graduating to my own decks and recording my own mixes and made it a hobby from then.
You are one of the founders of Rat Party - can you tell us the purpose/aims of the collective and the sort of parties you host? We’re a Leeds based queer collective and party, led by and in support of QTIPOC (Queer, Trans, and Intersex People of Colour), Sex Workers and the Gender Variant. These groups are some of the most marginalised within the LGBT community let alone society, and we wanted to create a safe space for people within our community to exist and be themselves. So far, we’ve thrown three free parties at various locations, and are looking forward to throwing our first ever club night in the new year!
Rat Party has worked hard to draft its safe spaces policy - what do you think the importance of these policies are and do you think other events/clubs are doing enough to ensure that their spaces are safe? We drew inspiration for it from the safer spaces policies put in place by events like Love Muscle and Flesh in Tension because they were the best models of safe spaces that we had seen and experienced. I think as a queer person it is incredibly important to be able to have that kind of community, and to know that you are fully embraced within it. The policies that we’ve adopted reflect this, and we hope to create a space that celebrates individuals and eradicates intolerance - where people are more than welcome to show up as allies but are also conscious of the space that they take up! I definitely think that loads of clubs and events in Leeds need to be doing a lot more, a solid safer space policy is the foundation of what I would classify as a good event, I don’t see how it could be otherwise. I go to events now and they just don’t slap like they should because there’s just no care for the welfare and wellbeing of party-goers. We recently interviewed Michael Upson of Love Muscle about the importance of safer spaces as a part of the Seperation Anxiety series and took a lot away from the conversation in terms of applying it in club spaces and alternative club spaces.
On the topic of inclusivity in nightlife, it is evident that there is a long way to go for Black representation in dance music. Can you talk more about your experience as a Queer POC in nightlife? Yeah, Black representation in dance music is abysmal considering Black DJs and Musicians pioneered the artform! It was really hard for me to even break through with DJing because I was always so scared to express an interest in it especially within the mostly white, male dominated DJ scene in Leeds. Like you can imagine how many of these guys I mean! Black DJs, Queer DJs, Womxn and Non-binary DJs are always pushed to the side, despite being some of the best DJs around and it’s really sad to see. I don’t think I would be where I am as a DJ if I didn’t have the encouragement from other Queer and POC DJs within the community, I felt so comfortable navigating those spaces, and I’m forever grateful for it.
Would you like to shout out any of your fellow Black mixers from Leeds or further afield? Big shout out to @xtrava.ganza, he’s such an amazing DJ and artist doing absolute bits at the minute, he puts so much into his work and is really inspiring to me! @sorayastan is also doing bits representing black women in techno, you can check some of her stuff out on Instagram
Where can our readers catch you playing next? You can catch me playing at Hidden in Manchester (5/11) and at Unit 58 in London (11/12)! I also occasionally play at Belgrave if you’re looking for a more chilled out set
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In The Middle 22 | Sports
Hamilton Gives black designers seat at met gala table
The 2021 Met Gala revolved around ‘American Independence,’ a theme that lent itself for activism on the red carpet and meaningful takes on what it means to be American. Amidst textual ‘Peg the Patriarchy’ and ‘Tax the Rich’ messages, Lewis Hamilton opted to buy a whole table to uplift rising black talent. Commemorating the moment on social media, he wrote “the goal is, and always will be, to open doors for young Black creatives.”
thegryphon.co.uk
Lewis Hamilton paid for a table at the Met Gala, as three emerging Black designers showcased their talent in the fashion industry’s night of the year.
The British Formula 1 champion has made his interest in fashion evident in the past. He is no stranger to the global fashion week calendar and has collaborated with brands like Tommy Hilfiger and Balenciaga. Unlike other attendants, he has shown up in previous galas in something else other than a plain black suit and white shirt. Now a champion of creativity, Hamilton chose Kenneth Nicholson, one of his three sponsored guests, for his lace-detailed Met Gala look this year. Hamilton sported a satin shirt and lace mesh skirt layered over a classical black suit. Nicholson opted for a belted long dress of a colour reminiscent of light wash jean fabric. As the emerging designer and celebrity posed together, the importance of the racing star’s action shined. Usually designers and brands pay for the tables, which range from $200,000 to $300,000, inviting celebrities as guests to feature their designs. This means young designers, who may not be as well-established, often miss out. In this case, Lewis Hamilton made sure a selected few had a seat at the table. This gesture once again speaks to his activism beyond his career as a racing driver, or in fact perhaps due to it. “As the first Black driver in Formula 1, Sir Lewis Hamilton was always aware of the lack of diversity across the motorsport industry,” reads The Hamilton Commission’s website. The report, published this summer, focused on how to improve representation of black people in UK motorsport, both in the racing tracks and behind-the-scenes in the garages and factories. His commitment to championing diversity is active, his actions speak louder than words. Propelling Black talent forwards, saving a seat for black designers, celebrities and sport stars, he has used his platform to influence the fashion scene he loves. Each invited designer styled the celebrities on the table, with Nicholson tailoring an outfit for the host himself. Discussing the journey towards hosting a table at the Met, the docu-series ‘Our Table’ showed Hamilton and Nicholson exchanging thoughts on inspiration. The young designer speaks of a spiritual “divine flow” that he draws on when designing pieces, as to what Hamilton relates back to his experience racing. Mentioning a tattooed “divine love,” Nicholson’s interpretation of the Met’s theme sees the light. Centring it around American romanticism, a ‘romantic side of design’ for what he has been profiled for Vogue in the past, Nicholson seeks to balance the often-loose fittings from his collection with the traditional sharp sleekness of menswear. Nicholson’s self-titled brand launched in 2016. It is devoted to “liberating the boundaries of men’s wear.” His avant-garde approach to men’s clothing has been acknowledged by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Fashion Awards. A 2020 nominee for ‘American Emerging Designer of the Year,’ Nicholson is one of the designers to watch. Another black designer recipient of the CFDA’s recognition is Edvin Thompson. One of this year’s ‘Fashion Fund’ finalists, he is the face behind contemporary brand Theophilio. Last month the Jamaican-American designer introduced his work on social media as a “wearable biography.” His designs reflect his exposure to fashion in Jamaica and New York City,
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fusing nostalgia with the city’s progressive culture. His upcoming Spring-Summer 2022 Collection ‘Air Jamaica’ represents that part of his heritage, often featuring the vibrant colours of the flag, in a similar fashion to his Met Gala fit. Thompson styled track athlete Sha’Carri Richardson. In an interview he explained the Phoenix inspiration behind the look, which consisted of a fiery red corset and split black fringe skirt. Featuring the design, she posted the look to her Instagram, captioning it with part of Maya Angelou’s ‘Still I Rise,’ denoting the designer’s influence. “Did you want to see me broken? // Bowed head and lowered eyes? // Shoulders falling down like teardrops, // Weakened by my soulful cries? // Yet Still I Rise.” Here the core identity of Theophilio shines. With cultural identity at the centre of his brand, at the root of its ideology there is the belief that “we all should look and feel good facing our adversities.” As Black fashion designers, these adversities are faced disproportionately. Earlier this year the CFDA published its ‘State of Diversity, Equity & Inclusion in Fashion’ report. It found that Black employees in the US reported inaccesibility to the fashion industry three times more than their white counterparts. Particularly, black students disproportionately struggle to afford the crucial but unpaid internships in fashion houses and magazines. For emerging independent indie artists, standing before the big brands they are drowned out, especially when it comes to large-scale events like the Met.
Speaking to Vogue, Hamilton drew parallels between the sports and fashion industry. “I realized it’s very similar […] A lot of brands and young designers don’t have the same opportunities.” As part of the creative industry, success is tied to connections and – the dreaded word – networking. Jason Rembert, also sitting in the F1 driver’s table, has spoken about the topic before. His work self-describes as a combination of a timeless classic style with “a fresh modern twist.” He has previously been part of the famous fashion event, granted behind the scenes, styling Zayn Malik for the 2016 Met Gala. In an interview with GQ about it, the American designer looked back at the early beginnings of his career. He recalled a failed internship application to the famous R&B and hip-hop magazine Vibe, in which his work has now, years later, been featured in. Given his vast portfolio with music clients, he styled American R&B singer-songwriter Kehlani, who was part of Hamilton’s party, as well as other attendees like Lil Baby and Mary J. Blige. Lewis Hamilton’s right-hand man and stylist, Law Roach, also sported a leather jacket and silk skirt from Rembert’s own brand, Aliétte. Collaboration of this calibre is an artful and creative protest, in sync with the thematic ‘American Independence’ exploration, beyond the dress code. “In this theme I wanted to create something meaningful […] spark a conversation,” said Hamilton. “When people see us all together, it will put these Black designers at the top of peoples’ minds.’
Nerea Zambrano Image: Instagram
Sports
thegryphon.co.uk
rising Contemporary black designers
Fashion | 23
From established fashion houses to underground brands there is a wealth of Black designers within the streetwear and luxury wear market. These contemporary designers are forging a refreshing take on the industry with unique design, marketing and branding. Here’s some of my favourites: 1. Head of State is a men’s wear brand that was founded in 2016 by Taofeek Abijako at age 17. Abijako references how his brand is rooted in the representation of postcolonial youth. Head of State has created five collections with its most recent, ‘Johnny just come’ being the brand’s most interesting collection to date. The standout look pairs a cream wide flared trouser with a matching oversized shirt. The trousers have an oval sized cut out exposing a white fabric underneath. Outside of fashion, Head of State uses their brand as a platform to fund initiatives in underserved communities.
2. FTP (standing for f--k the population) has a cult fanbase that are drawn to Zac Clark’s gritty and unapologetically authentic streetwear brand. Their iconic all over print has turned into a symbol of LA streetwear, leading to most of their products selling out in hours. FTP stays rooted within today’s culture by working alongside iconic figures like Travis Barker, YG, Chief Keef and Steve Lacy in their look books.
3. Designer Martine Rose founded her fashion label in 2007. Despite the fashion label’s global recognition, Martine Rose remains connected with her Jamaican-British heritage by hosting her shows in cultural melting pots across London. This has included the Tottenham markets, a neighbourhood in Camden and Torriano primary school. The label constantly uses a variety of different fabrics and designs that allow Martine Rose to tap into a range of aesthetics that vary from athleisure to formal wear. Martine Rose is a highly regarded designer who has worked alongside established figures like Demna Gvasalia during the launch of his menswear collection at Balenciaga.
4. Daily Paper is a lifestyle brand that was founded in Amsterdam by childhood friends Jefferson Osei, Abderrahmane Trabsini, and Hussein Suleiman. The brand centres around their individual African heritage (Morocco, Ghana, and Somalia). The three founders had a mutual interest in music, art, fashion, and culture which enabled them to grow a coherent label with a strong brand identity. Daily Paper has continued to release exciting clothing and has begun to diversify their product line in making both men’s and womenswear. The brand is, ‘fuelled by the rich heritage of African culture wrapped in contemporary designs.’ These are just a few of the many incredible Black owned brands within the fashion industry. I’d advise you to look into supporting future collections of Black designers and buying from Black-owned labels wherever possible.
Images - Instagram
Aasif Davidson
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In The Middle 22 | Sports
Appropriation or appreciation?
thegryphon.co.uk
An exploration of the whitewashing of black trends within the fashion world
The influence Black culture has had on inspiring trends in the mainstream fashion industry is hugely extensive. However, the industry has a history of repeatedly appropriating Black culture problematically. Big hoop earrings, nameplate necklaces and monogram prints are staples of everyone’s wardrobes but are descended from a history of Black design. ‘Influence’ and ‘inspiration’ are phrases that become loaded when the pendulum swings from cultural appreciation to appropriation. Many modern fashion staples adorned by white bodies have their roots in Black culture without widespread recognition. As a white woman I am aware I hold no authority on what is labelled cultural appropriation or appreciation, but this article aims to bring attention to the history of Black design and culture behind widespread, white-washed fashion trends. To start with accessories, most of us own and adore hooped earrings and many of my white friends own nameplate necklaces. These items are unavoidable in the fashion world but many aren’t aware that these trends have a rich cultural history bound by POC identity and selfhood that has been whitewashed. Hooped earrings have their origin in African royalty and have been worn in Black and Latin minority communities for decades as a sign of reliance, strength, and identity. Much like nameplate necklaces that were originally worn to emphasise and reinforce how important names are in signifying identity. Flashforward to 1998 and ‘Sex and the City’ debuts with its white main character - fashion obsessed Carrie Bradshaw - sporting a ‘Carrie’ necklace giving her an appropriated ‘cool’ and supposedly ‘unique’ aesthetic. This not only made the nameplate necklace synonymous with Carrie and the show, but also propelled the item into white fashion markets. Thus, sadly contributing to an ongoing narrative of commercialising items rooted in POC personal identity and separating them from this in the mainstream media. We see this continued with clothes when examining the history of monogram print, or logomania, and the story of Dapper Dan, a man whose ‘knock off’ creations influenced large fashion houses. Dapper Dan opened his legendary Harlem couturier in 1982 selling illegal screen-printed designs of the logos of high fashion brands to big celebrities like Floyd Mayweather, LL Cool J and Salt N Pepper among many more. He reinvented how these logos and monograms could be used and created a definitive look that defined Black culture in the 80s and 90s.
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Sadly, of course, in 1989 the police closed his boutique allowing for big fashion brands to swoop in and fill the gap he left in the mainstream market. Appropriating and profiting on his designs without due credit. Thankfully, his story ends positively as a 2017 Gucci jacket caused uproar due to it being a blatant copy of a 1989 Dapper Dan jacket made for Olympian Diane Dixon. Gucci extended the hand of collaboration, resulting in a 2018 Dapper Dan X Gucci collection that acted as a homage to the boutique that started it all. His designs continue to be championed by black artists such as Saweetie (pictured), 21 Savage and Doja Cat. So, can the popularisation of these trends be seen as a positive, framed as widespread cultural appreciation? Is it not a good thing that these trends are widely-used and well-known? Yes, representation is extremely positive and necessary, but not in this way. The roots of these trends need credit, understanding and appreciation. The issue doesn’t particularly lie with white people wearing hoops, nameplates, and monogram tracksuits. However, undoubtedly the dangerous legacy of systemic whitewashing of markings of Black identity and culture within the fashion industry is problematic.
Jessica Hough Images: Instagram
Sports
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Fashion | 23
Black models taking the industry by storm The fashion industry has endured a lengthy past of race superiority and stigmatization of models of colour. Despite the likes of legends such as Tyra Banks and Naomi Campbell, historically, the runways have championed the white models. However, it seems, times are finally changing. More than ever before, models of colour are opening and closing the worlds most renowned fashion weeks. This year, in light of the Black Lives Matter movement, there has been even further effort to promote the inclusion and representation of minority groups in the fashion industry. While there are many Black models breaking through to help create change in the industry, here are some of my favourites who have been tearing up the runways in 2021:
Adonis Bosso has made his mark this season, modelling for the likes of Dolce & Gabbana and Todd Snyder. Bosso said in an interview with Vogue that his aim as a Black model on the runways is to dissolve all the preconceptions. “I want to represent something more than being boxed into stereotypes”.
One of the most sought-after Black models in the industry, Adut Akech Bior has opened and closed several major shows this fashion week season. Not only does she want to represent Black girls, as she said in an interview with Allure, she wants to represent and inspire anyone who started from nothing and worked their way up.
Lineisy Montero, who was discovered at an amusement park in the Dominican republic, has been making her mark on the runways this year. Sporting her trademark Afro at NYFW, which she says is never heavily pampered for runway modelling, has proven to other aspiring Black models that you should always be proud of your heritage.
It took Staniel Ferreira five years to sign for an agency, but after a lot of hard work and determination, he killed the runway at 2021 London Fashion week. He is another Black model proving to the industry that fashion has no colour.
Sophie Arundel
Images: Instagram
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24In The | Middle Lifestyle
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Representation matters for MCU superheroes If you’re a real fan of the Marvel universe, you will know that multiple members of the original Avengers are deceased. Therefore, if the industry wants to keep their viewers absorbed, they must introduce new superheroes according to the comics. Released in early September 2021 and starring Simu Liu, Shang-Chi and the Legends of the Ten Rings focuses on a young man, Shaun/Shang-Chi, who needs to face his past when the Ten Rings organisation attacks him. His aim is to renew his broken family relationship and fight a soul-consuming-demon to save a mysterious country. This movie is a typical superhero movie, which is why you’ll still be able to watch it without having any knowledge of previous MCU (Marvel Cinematic Universe) movies, as it is not related to them. Since 2018 and the release of Black Panther, Marvel has increasingly sought to include underrepresented communities. After reaching to the Black community in 2018, Marvel this time explores East Asian culture, as Chinese life and language are at the heart of the film. Mixing martial art with fantasy this time is what provides this
piece its sense of uniqueness in the MCU. What makes the film even more noteworthy is its influence from Chinese TV shows, mostly history-genre, and the romance aspects and special effects for C-drama lovers. The Marvel Team had to work vigorously on the CGI, mainly present in the second part of the movie when a parallel realm called Ta Lo is introduced. The presence of mythical Chinese creatures such as dragons, the giant lion guardian shíshī, and the nine tailed fox romanised by jiuwěihú (kyubi for those who like Naruto) added flair to the movie. However, for some people this movie was less visible at its release due to the new trailer for Spiderman: No Way Home. Equally, there is a lack of Chinese rap, RnB, and traditional instruments mixed with
image source: BBC
Credit: The Guardian
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modern technology which is an interesting omission. While on the topic of what was included, the end scene - purely a ‘Pokémon’ battle as it has been described by some fans, is in my point of view not necessary. Would I recommend this film? Yes, absolutely. Shang-Chi and the Legends of the Ten Rings is pleasing to watch. I especially suggest going to a cinema for those new to 4DX technology for multisensory viewing. We are entering an era in which film is trying to represent minorities on the big screen. We might see this especially in the MCU with a wave of POC (people of colour) leading new and brilliant casts. Marjolaine Marsile
Lifestyle | 25 Arts & Culture
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The Master’s Tools Will Never Dismantle the Master’s House Audre Lorde For a shorter, but rewarding read, the Penguin miniature modern series has you covered. The Master’s Tools Will Never Dismantle the Master’s House is a collection of essays by black poet, writer, activist and feminist Audre Lorde, whose reflections on Gay and Black identity proved to be keystone revolutionary texts. As suggested by the title, the essays comment upon how radical change will never be enacted within the mechanisms laid out by existing institutions. Instead, Lorde suggests racial justice will only be achieved by prioritizing black voices and movements. This a digestible and useful text as a gateway into Black feminist theory.
Women, Race & Class Angela Davis Civil rights activist, intersectional feminist, former Black Panther and author Angela Davis’ polemical text discuss the historical, political and social overlap of race, gender and class. The book significantly explores what has since been dubbed “white feminism”, and how this movement has excluded women of colour. Davis champions many incredible Black feminists and introduces the core issues which have underpinned racial injustice over the last two centuries. Whilst being an insightful, enjoyable and well-constructed read, this book also forms a useful introduction to other Black activists, the civil rights movement, and feminism.
My Sister, The Serial Killer Oyinkan Braithwait
Queenie Candice Carty-Williams Queenie by Candice Carty-Williams has been accoladed by Blackwell’s Debut of the year, The Guardian’s Best Books of 2019 and The Times Best Books of 2019, among a long list of other prizes. And deservingly so! Queenie’s relationship with her white boyfriend, Tom, is crumbling. She’s forced to move out, her boss doesn’t see her, her family doesn’t hear her, and her friends don’t seem to understand her. Amidst the spiralling, breakdowns and difficult decisions thrown at her, Queenie is forced to face her own identity and blackness.
BOOKS BY BLACK FEMALE AUTHORS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT
Queenie forces its reader to recognize the societal racism faced by Black women every single day. Through her excellent writing, she is able to capture the frustration many people of colour struggle to explain, but experience throughout their lives. In addition to all this, Williams produces accurate portrayals of mental illness and trauma, which are not only relatable but also quite refreshing.
by Mia Fulford, Alex Gibbon, Celina Tran
Image credit: Penguin Books, Waterstones, World of Books
The debut novel from Nigerian author Oyinkan Braithwaite caused a storm when it first hit shelves back in 2018. This dark comedy follows nurse Korede whose sister, Ayoola, has a penchant for disposing of the men who cross her. Smart, sardonic and sarcastic, My Sister, the Serial Killer questions whether blood really is thick than water. If this has piqued your interest, you should join The Gryphon's new reading group, Bear's Book Club, where we will be meeting to discuss this novel in the second week of November.
Such A Fun Age Kiley Reid
Such a Fun Age by Kiley Reid has been described as ‘A new literary star’ by The Times. It won the 2020 Goodreads Choice Award for Best Debut Novel and landed on the New York Times Hardcover Fiction bestseller list. When Emira is accused of kidnapping a white child she’s babysitting, a chain of events is set off. Her employer, Alex, a feminist blogger, is set on making things right. A surprising connection sets off between the two women and they’re thrown on a journey that unmasks everything they know about themselves, each other, and privilege.
Such a Fun Age was an incredible read. It confronts our ideas of privilege, class and white saviorism, and drags you through an emotional rollercoaster of quiet screaming, facepalming and annoyance, but also tears, heartache and satisfaction. It’s a book that makes you feel. Kiley Reid is an incredible writer and deserves every bit of praise it has accumulated since publishing!
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In The Middle
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Lessons to Learn on your Journey Towards Allyship Allyship does not happen overnight. In fact, allyship is an ongoing process - a journey that I am still navigating. Yes, the journey can sometimes be uncomfortable but an important fundamental of allyship to remember is that although you may be feeling this way, as an ally, this conversation is not about you. Allyship can take on many forms. Everyone has their own meaning for the term ‘ally’. For example, your friends may be known as your ‘allies’. You choose to support your friends, you check in on your friends, and if someone has treated your friends incorrectly, you would hopefully step in and speak up. The same can be done as an ally against racism, or homophobia. Here, I shall specifically focus on allyship for the Black Lives Matter movement, but allyship towards all is just as important.
The First Step
I accept that I have white privilege. Accepting privilege can feel unpleasant, but all white people must acknowledge that this privilege does exist and cannot be ignored. Using this knowledge, an ally must take their privilege and use it to amplify the voices that are less heard before their own. Another important point of being an ally is recognising that you may not know how it feels to be oppressed but it is crucial to understand that there are many people out there who are marginalised every single day. The first step in becoming an ally is making an effort to better understand their struggle and to educate yourself on the oppression faced.
Photo: Montero Cruz foto
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Education
This will be an ongoing process of learning and unlearning. You need to unlearn the so-called ‘truths’ that previous generations believed in and actively go against what may, to you, be considered as the ‘norm’. During this, you must also accept that you will make mistakes and learn to take on criticism. This critique will help your learning process and will be a valuable lesson for the future. It is important that you self-educate. Do your own research and do not take credit for work that has been made before you, or made by those who are marginalised. If using work and guides made by the Black community, then remember you owe them for their invested time. It should not be their responsibility for your education. If you are able to, make sure to contribute whenever a Paypal or funding page is made available.
Reading
A small personal way that I choose to show allyship is by reading authors who are primarily Black and female. Whilst this is only a small change in lifestyle, it can help you to start widening your horizons and surrounding yourself with culture outside of your immediate circle. Become aware of experiences that you have not lived. Further, supporting Black creators can help to amplify their voices. The same can be said with film directors, or music artists too.
Speaking out
Being an ally is mostly about listening. But, it is also important to speak out when the time is right. Speak out
at home or with your sit quite right with tion, speak up! You tect someone who
friends if something said doesn’t you. If you witness discriminacould be in a position to prodoes not have that privilege.
Showing support on social media can be an influential way of being an ally too. It is so easy to sign petitions, write to local charity groups and MPs for change, and share posts that are in support of BLM and other Black creators. However, it is important to remember that being an ally cannot just be for show. The viral trend ‘Blackout Tuesday’ that took place on Instagram to protest racism and police brutality shortly after the death of George Floyd gave an example of what some called performative allyship, with thousands of users posting a black square on their Instagram feed. Whilst the intention was seemingly pure, the action was seen as ‘empty’ and instead of promoting Black voices, feeds were instead full of empty space. Rather than staying silent in this case, to be a good ally, you need to be actively engaged. The journey does not end here. This is just the tip of the iceberg of some of the lessons that I have gathered on my journey of trying to become a better ally. Please make sure to use other resources and never stop listening to podcasts, reading, and researching to continue to educate yourself! Lauren Woodley
LifestyleLifestyle | 27
Leeds Black Black owned eateries history SUPPORTING
It’s Black History Month in the UK, and this year The Gryphon is celebrating Black Liberation within its print issue. Black History Month is of course commemorated nationally, but it is important to educate yourself on the history of your local community. Here’s a rundown on some of the important events and people within the city’s extensive Black history, using resources provided by Secret Library Leeds.
The Windrush Generation 1948 marks the first arrival of economic migrants from the Caribbean Islands to Yorkshire. By the early 60s, the Black population in Leeds was estimated to be 4,000, made up of skilled labourers, carpenters, teachers and tradesmen. The Windrush generation were promised work and a good life in the UK, and were instead met with poor living conditions, limited job prospects and outright racism. Despite these setbacks, the African-Caribbean community flourished in the local area, creating groups and organisations such as the Caribbean Cricket Club and the Aggrey Society.
Rock Against Racism Leeds Beckett University was home to the second Rock Against Racism (RAR) concert in the UK, a series of gigs to raise awareness against prejudice and systemic violence. Fascism was sadly present in 1970’s Leeds, due to post-industrial decline and the rise of far-right groups such as the National Front. RAR directly opposed these views, organising gigs and clubs in support of anti-racism throughout the decade. In Leeds, the local RAR organisation was supported by musical acts such as Delta 5 and Gang of Four, and in 1981 the last RAR Carnival took place in Chapeltown.
FOOD
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One of the most direct and sustainable ways to support the Black community is with your money! Post-lockdown, this is even more important; it prevents the shutting down of independent businesses and also helps to get yourself back into the local community after being locked away for so long. In this article, we’ve highlighted some of the best local black-owned eateries for you to visit in the city.
SWEET TREATS LoveStorm Cakes
LoveStorm Cakes is a custom cake company, whose name stems from a little kitchen in a desperate time in a single mother’s life. Renee Cottle’s knack for eye-catching cakes motivated her to open this business in 2015, which now has over four thousand followers on Instagram and nearly fourteen thousand likes on Facebook. Renee’s cakes and business ethos has rave reviews so be sure to check her out for your next special occasion. Renee’s business doesn’t end there though! She has raised an entire family of entrepreneurs, with her daughters owning goodie businesses of their own.
LoveStorm Cupcakes by Leilani
Renee’s daughter owns this custom cupcake start-up, and her products look both indulgent and beautiful. Recently Leilani has also started doing ‘smash hearts’, which are essentially edible pinatas, and I am desperate to try one. Avaiya, also Renee’s daughter, has followed her mother and sister’s footsteps and set up her own business, The Kookie Kid. She bakes and sells handsome sugar cookies and extravagant cake pops, and they look so delicious you’d be silly not to try them!
SAVOURY FOOD
Norma Hutchinson A Trade Unionist and local councillor to Chapeltown, Jamaicanborn Norma Hutchinson moved to Leeds in 1968 as a nurse. After being elected in 1991, Hutchinson went on to have a successful career in local politics and activism. Before sadly passing away in 2004, Hutchinson was an activist for women’s rights, as well as a chair for environmental health and housing committees. Hutchinson also did a lot of work for her home country, raising money for health campaigns back in Jamaica.
BLACK-OWNED
Jerk Express
If you’re looking for some classic Caribbean street food, Jerk Express is the place to go. With native chefs Audley Ellis and Clarkey, this place is sure to give you the most authentic Jamaican food in Leeds. It’s located in Hyde Park, making it a student favourite. PERSONAL FAVOURITES: - Mac and Cheese: if you’re expecting the classic Americab Mac and Cheese dish, you will be pleasantly surprised. The Jamaican version is a Mac and Cheese pie and it is spiced to perfection.
- Jerk Chicken with rice and peas meal: The Jerk seasoning has that distinctive hot and savoury flavour, with a warming kick, but not too spicy. The rice and peas had loads of flavour for a rice dish and it is very authentic. All in all, it’s a mouth-watering meal.
Ryan’s Kitchen
If a lot of spice isn’t for you, then this restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy authentic Jamaican flavours without the heat. Their ethos is to make the dishes milder, without losing the traditional Caribbean flavours, and they succeed. This is most likely due to the fact that everything is cooked fresh, and sourced from local suppliers, with their main spices sourced from Jamaica. This restaurant opened up in 2017 and has hundreds of five-star reviews online. It performs mainly as a takeaway but they do have a small dining area for eating in.
PLANT-BASED Soul Box
Cedric Clarke This pillar of local politics was elected as the first Black councillor in Leeds in 1980, and remained in his position for the Labour Party for a decade. Whilst holding his position, Clarke was part of the Education, Nursery, Industrial and Employment committees, as well as vice-chairman to the city’s Equal Opportunities sub-committee. Clarke’s main focus was to improve the lives of minorities living in his city, introducing 220 affordable new houses for the area and creating more diverse teaching within local schools.
Chloe-Nicole Arnold
Sisters Maye and Monifa founded this plant-based takeaway in Leeds. Their menu changes every week, and they are soon hoping to start making vegan desserts. Both the sisters eat a plant-based diet and have been cooking for their large family since a young age. Their slogan - “Raises your Vibrations, Feeds the Soul” - comes from their desire to provide healthy but flavoursome food, and their food is a treat for vegans and non-vegans alike.
DRINK The Assembly
This independent bar and bottle shop was established in 2018 by husband and wife duo Steph and Matt Cliffe. It now has two locations, Crossgates and Garforth, both of which have an intimate home-from-home feel. They serve craft beer, classic cocktails and a selected wine list to go with their locally sourced charcuterie and bar snacks. Ruby Winter
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26In The | Middle Lifestyle
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Uni of feeds
Photo: George Jessop
Fresh tomato and basil arrabbiata spaghetti by George Jessop
Forget Aldi bottled pasta sauce, this traditional arrabbiata sauce is so quick and easy it will quickly become a regular. To make this more extra, this sauce goes very well with some shope bought ravioli. 1. Boil the kettle, get a frying pan on medium high with your olive oil in, when the kettle’s done use table salt to get your boiling water ‘nearly as salty as the sea’ (taste it). If using dried pasta, get it cooking according to packet instructions, clear the sink and get your colander/ sieve out with a mug underneath to catch the all-important cooking water. Set a timer. 2. Finely slice your garlic, chilli and basil. 3cm dice your tomatoes if using fresh. Add your garlic to your frying pan, cook for a minute then add your chilli. Cook until your garlic is as golden brown as the photo (about 3 minutes). 3. Add your tomatoes and balsamic vinegar, then turn up the heat and aggressively simmer for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, season to taste with sea salt and black pepper. 4. If using fresh pasta, cook now then add straight into your sauce using tongs/ slotted spoon. If using dried, drain, saving some cooking water, then add into your sauce. 5. With your pasta in your sauce, add 2 tbsp (roughly) cooking water then aggressively simmer until the sauce is shimmer and glossy, just make sure it isn’t watery. Stir in most of your basil, serve and top with grated parmesan and remaining basil.
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Ingredients (Serves one) One portion (ish) of any pasta you have in, but shop bought fresh pasta is always a nice treat. Table salt 3 tbsp olive oil 2 cloves of garlic ½ fresh red chilli, or ¼ tsp dried chilli flakes 2 large tomatoes (or ½ tin of plum tomatoes, cut up with scissors in the tin 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar Sea salt and black pepper Fresh basil Parmesan
Lifestyle
Are You The Undergraduate We Are Looking For? A new documentary series titled ‘The Undergraduate’ is launching its call to action to find a diverse and inclusive selection of first year students to be filmed over the next three years. This digital time capsule will show the dramatic changes that take place to seven first year undergraduate students as they progress through their university life. Each student will be chosen from one of the seven academic faculties within University of Leeds and will appear in a total of four episodes. The first three episodes will each represent a specific academic year across their three-year BA degree period, whilst the fourth will be a dedicated graduation episode which will include the best bits from episodes 1, 2, and 3. Director and Producer, Rufus Stone, a mature student currently studying Film Photography and Media at University of Leeds says “I want to cast a unique bunch of students. It’s not about being the coolest, or the best looking or even the brainiest. We’re looking for people who want to share their university journey with a wider audience, and that are willing to commit to the three-year project.” The Undergraduate is a unique media project and a marvellous opportunity for students to be immortalized in this capsule history of our time. First year students that are interested in the project are being asked to contact casting@iamswee.com. Students interested in working on the production and post-production side of the documentary, should contact production@iamswee.com.
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Introducing our head of photography: Hollie forson