&clubs
SPRING 2018
TEQUILA & MEZCAL
Agave: educating your guests
LIQUEURS What to stock and why
GIN
The juniper debate
BUNDABERG
Celebrating the 130th birthday of Australia’s favourite rum
PLUS: AUSTRALIAN DISTILLERIES ON THE RISE – DALE DEGROFF Q&A – DARK SPIRITS
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THE S WORD
“And while every
bar should be open to the
sustainability conversation, there’s one thing you can all do – today – to make a difference:
ditch the plastic straw.” @BARSANDCLUBSMAGAZINE
MANAGING DIRECTOR Simon Grover PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au
/BARSANDCLUB
Sustainability has been a common topic of discussion in the drinks industry in recent years. Bars such as London’s Dandelyan have led the charge, pioneering a minimal waste approach that has seen venues all around the world re-think the way that ingredients can be reused, re-manipulated, or fermented to reduce what ends up in the bin – and by extension, landfill. And while every bar should be open to the sustainability conversation, there’s one thing you can all do – today – to make a difference: ditch the plastic straw. With single use plastic contributing enormous amounts to landfill, and straws in particular often ending up in oceans and waterways, the hospitality sector has the opportunity to lead the way in changing consumer behaviour and protecting the environment. Intermedia, publisher of this magazine (as well as TheShout, Hospitality, and Beer & Brewer) has thrown its support behind The Last Straw campaign, which aims to reduce the use of plastic straws in venues around the country. Many bars have already ditched straws altogether, redesigning their serves to make them redundant; others have started stocking alternatives to plastic (such as reusable steel, or bamboo), which they can offer a customer who is insistent on using one. A full list of participating venues is available at www. laststraw.com.au, where you can also sign up and join the nearly 500 official member venues who are already on board. If your bar hasn’t already ditched the straw, the time is now. Tam Allenby Editor
@BARS_AND_CLUBS
GENERAL MANAGER SALES –
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EDITOR Tam Allenby tallenby@intermedia.com.au
Andrea Diaz
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NSW Australia, 2037
PHOTOGRAPHER Simon Taylor: Cover + Dark Spirits
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BARS&clubs 5
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BARS • COCKTAILS • CRAFT SPIRITS • BEERS • BUSINESS
SPRING 2018 Features 26 GIN Where to from here for the spirit of this decade? Charlie Whitting finds out.
32 TEQUILA & MEZCAL Sacha Delfosse chats to some of agave’s foremost proponents from around the country.
26
36 AUSTRALIAN DISTILLERIES Who’s making waves in 2018 – and have you ever considered opening your own distillery?
38 LIQUEURS A consideration of ‘craft’, produce and process has crept into this category, writes Joe Sinagra.
42 IPA
32
Beer’s hoppiest variety is constantly evolving.
Regulars 8 NEWS What you need to know.
14
10 OPENINGS The new, the revamped and the rebranded venues opening around the country.
13 NEW FACES Keep an eye on these up-and-comers.
14 INSPIRATION Bundaberg celebrates its 130th birthday with Australia’s top bartenders, a chat with the legend that is Dale DeGroff, and some inspo from the boundary-pushing Nightjar.
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22 CATEGORY SPOTLIGHT This time, it’s all about the broad church of ‘darker’ spirits.
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DISCLAIMER
This publication is published by The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. COPYRIGHT (C) 2018 - THE INTERMEDIA GROUP PTY LTD.
BARS&clubs 7
news
AUSTRALIAN ICONS OF WHISKY ANNOUNCED IN ADELAIDE
The second-ever Australian Icons of Whisky Awards dinner was held in Adelaide in late August, recognising the nation’s top people, bars, producers and retailers for their contribution to the whisky industry. A new addition to the Australian Icons of Whisky Awards this year was the Whisky Bars category. Big winners here were The Baxter Inn (taking home Bar of the Year), with Websters Bar the Highly Commended. Speakeasy Group won Bar Group of the Year and Grain Bar took out the Hotel Bar of the Year category. Patrick Maguire, Head Distiller at Sullivans Cove, was inducted into the global Icons of Whisky Hall of Fame, one of the whisky world’s top honours. Great Southern Distilling Company took home the award for Distiller of the Year; Belgrove Distillery was named Craft Producer of the Year, and New World Whisky Distillery (AKA Starward) the Brand Innovator of the Year. Hellyers Road Distillery’s Mark Littler took home the award for Master Distiller/Master Blender of the Year and Distillery Manager of the Year was awarded to John Rochfort from McLaren Vale Distillery. On the brand side of the equation, Mark Hickey from Spirits Platform was named Scotch Whisky Brand Ambassador of the Year, Paul Slater from Starward the World Whisky Brand Ambassador of the Year, Martin Lynch (Teeling) the Irish Whiskey Brand Ambassador of the Year, and Daniele Pirotta (Wild Turkey) the American Whiskey Brand Ambassador of the Year.
SCAPEGRACE WORLD’S BEST New Zealand gin Scapegrace Gold was named best London Dry Gin in the world at the recent International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC). Described by a veteran judge as “staggeringly good”, Scapegrace beat more than 600 other entries to take out the overall title in the category.
8 BARS&clubs
BRIX OPENS Brix Distillers, a craft rum distillery and bar, has opened in the inner-city Sydney suburb of Surry Hills. The fully operational distillery and rum ageing facility features a 1200-litre copper still. Overseen by head distiller Shane Casey, Brix has launched with a core range of three rums: Brix White, Gold and Spiced.
OPIHR CROWNS AUSTRALIAN COCKTAIL COMPETITION WINNER Loreta Kwong from Joe Taylor in Victoria took out this year’s Australian final of the Opihr World Adventure Cocktail competition. Thanks to her drink ‘The Alchemist’ – inspired by Paulo Coelo’s novel of the same name, which explores the concept that knowledge from travel is more valuable than gold – Kwong eventually emerged the best of the seven finalists. Kwong’s winning cocktail combined a spicy blend of ginger, Australian honey and turmeric syrup (hand made from local ingredients) that highlighted the unique blend of botanicals found in Opihr gin. Second place went to Claudia Morgan (The Dominion League, WA) for her ‘The Magic Pudding’, while third place was awarded to Jared Huk (The Howlin’ Wolf, NSW) for his creation ‘The Land of Milk and Honey’.
FOUR PILLARS X HERNÖ Four Pillars and Swedish distillery Hernö released a special collaboration gin in late August. Dry Island Gin is a bright and lifted gin with beautiful citrus notes and a floral cut-grass character. A Swedish version (distilled at Hernö’s headquarters in the village of Dala) will be released in 2019.
news PATRÓN MOVES TO BACARDI Following Bacardi Limited’s global acquisition of Patrón earlier this year, Bacardi-Martini Australia (BMA) took over the exclusive distribution of the brand on 1 August. BMA NAPAC Vice President Denis Brown was understandably excited about welcoming the world’s top-selling ultra-premium tequila to the company. “We’re thrilled to welcome the Patrón brand to the Bacardi family, naturally, a perfect fit alongside our super premium offering including Grey Goose, Bombay Sapphire and St Germain amongst others.” Patrón was previously distributed by SouthTrade International.
A LIFE IN WHISKY
On his 18th birthday, Craig Johnstone embarked on a career in the whisky industry. Starting out as a distillery tour guide at Glenkinchie while still at university, he went on to positions with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, The Macallan, and a stint at Lark. The globetrotting Scotsman is now based in Edinburgh where he manages the exclusive single cask program for Brown Forman’s single malts.
PS SODA LAUNCHES FOR THE TRADE PS Soda, a craft soda line from the team behind Sydney cocktail bar PS40, has officially been launched for the trade in Australia. PS Soda is the brainchild of PS40 founders Michael Chiem and Thor Bergquist, and includes creative flavours like Smoked Lemonade and Wattle Cola in a 330ml format. Neat Spirits Australia (soon to become Proof & Company) have been appointed as the sole distributor for PS Soda. The team have also increased production to meet the demand for their bottlings and the upcoming summer season.
BALTER VOTED AUSTRALIA’S BEST CRAFT BREWERY Balter has been voted Australia’s best craft brewery. The result was revealed in beer retailer Beer Cartel’s third annual Australian Craft Beer Survey, with over 18,000 beer drinkers taking part. “To win this award on the back of the GABS Hottest 100 earlier in the year is a wonderful feeling,” comments Stirling Howland, cofounder. Completing the top five (in order) were Modus Operandi, Pirate Life, Stone & Wood and Bridge Road.
HOW CAN BARTENDERS MAKE THE MOST OF SCOTCH AT THEIR BAR? I would say start small and expand. Ask the brands for training and sampling opportunities. If the guys behind the bar love something, then you’ll sell more. In terms of serving, I used to challenge myself when I worked behind the bar. I’d pick a dram that was selling slowly and learn a story about it, often a non-technical story that took 30 seconds to tell. WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT SINGLE MALTS IN COCKTAILS? When I was managing Lark distillery there was nothing better than hearing that something I had made was being experimented with. Sometimes the complexity of malts are a challenge to balance and improve in a cocktail, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try.
72
%
Australians drink 72% as much alcohol (per person) as they did in the 1970s, according to statistics from the ABS. 2017 also saw a decrease in alcohol consumption to its lowest level since 1962.
HAVE YOU SEEN BARS&CLUBS ONLINE?
All the latest industry news, along with features, tips and tutorials.
WHAT ARE SOME OF THE MAJOR LESSONS YOU’VE LEARNT? I think the biggest lesson I have learned so far is to share knowledge and unashamedly ask questions. My first day in whisky, I had zero knowledge of the category. Now I have 15 years’ experience that others can benefit from. My knowledge and stories have all come from interacting with people. BARS&clubs 9
openings
T
OLD MATE’S PLACE
he latest venue to open in the Sydney CBD bucks the trend of street level or subterranean bars, instead occupying the fourth floor (and rooftop) of an unassuming office building on Clarence Street. Old Mate’s Place is the creation of Andres Walters (The Lobo Plantation, Kittyhawk), his wife Gabrielle (barGEEK) and Daniel Noble (Ramblin’ Rascal Tavern). The idea for the bar goes back a decade, and while they’ve hit a few snags along the way – lockout laws, rental prices, design issues, and even hitherto uncharted asbestos – the doors finally opened at the end of August. “I don’t think there was ever any turning back for us,” Andres Walters told BARS&clubs. “But finally getting the doors open was probably one of the happiest days for all of us recently.” Inspired by similar venues in Japan – where bars can regularly be found on the mid-level of office buildings – the feel of the two-level, 98-person capacity bar is described by Walters as “a turn of the century library that’s been abandoned”. While its unorthodox location is 10 BARS&clubs
somewhat difficult to locate, Walters says finding Old Mate’s is “half the fun”. With some of Australia’s best bars a stone’s throw away, Old Mate’s main point of difference is its versatility; the backbar of roughly 300 bottles, and a concise list of 10 cocktails will be updated as the team see fit. “We didn’t want to pigeonhole ourselves as being a rum bar when you’ve got Lobo [Plantation] down the road, or a whisky bar with Baxter so close too,” explains Walters. “And how long has it been since a bar opened that was just a bar? For us, that will stand the test of time – we want to be here in 20 years.” In terms of beer and wine, Old Mate’s keeps it simple with VB throwdowns, a rotating lager and a couple of Aussie craft brews and ciders (perfect for the upcoming summer season on the rooftop), while the wine list is curated by Charlie Casben (owner of Moya’s Juniper Lounge, and ex-sommelier), with minor adjustments made seasonally. If guests get peckish, they can munch on a rotating selection of deli meats; when it comes to something more substantial, there’s a Philly
cheesesteak, Iberico jamon cheesesteak (“which is off the chain”) and a vegetarian version as well. Keen eyes may also notice a waffle croque monsieur (made with roasted cauliflower béchamel) appear on the short but tasty menu in the near future. Tying the whole concept together is a down to earth, ‘no bullshit’ vibe – combined with good ol’ fashioned customer service. “One thing I’m huge on is not having that bullshit attitude that you might see in some cocktail bars – where they’ll begrudgingly make an ‘uncool’ drink for a customer,” says Walters. “At the end of the day, the customer is paying our bills, so whatever they want is pretty much what they’ll get here. “If people want to come in and have a Tuxedo No.2, cool, we can do it; if they want to come in here and have a Cosmo, we’re more than happy to mix them one of those as well. That’s realistically what I want to get out of Old Mate’s more than anything.” Address: Level 4/199 Clarence St, Sydney NSW
openings
Redfern Surf Club
Redfern Surf Club has officially opened its doors, offering a slice of sunny surf club culture on a bustling intersection in Alexandria. The new venue is the brainchild of Yannick Maslard – former GM of The Cliff Dive and Oxford Art Factory – and pairs a classic and fun drinks list with an inclusive, unpretentious approach to service. The drinks selection is headlined by ‘Can Cocktails’, described as a “soft drink can that has taken a stroll through the mini bar”. Grifter Pale Ale features centre-stage as RSC’s house beer, while the rest of the taps will champion local breweries like Batch, Wayward and Akasha – with an eye to one-off collaborations and limited release beers sometime in the future. Rounding out the list is a selection of natural wines curated by Sam Fitzsimmons of Melbourne’s Act of Wine, focusing on the team’s favourite Aussie producers – from fun and easy-drinking varieties to more complex styles.
Capitano
The team behind Bar Liberty have breathed new life into Carlton institution The Beaufort, opening an Italian-American focused bar and restaurant called Capitano in mid-August. Owners Michael Bascetta, Banjo Harris Plane, Manu Potoi and Casey Wall boast some serious pedigree and can lay claim to some of Melbourne’s most-loved venues, including Above Board and Rockwell and Sons, in addition to the award-winning Bar Liberty. While food is a focus, the Capitano bar is set to become a destination in its own right – presenting a unique take on classic Italian cocktails and an impressive selection of Amari – while sommelier and co-owner Harris Plane will curate a wine list full of fun, juicy Italian varietals sourced locally and internationally. The space itself has also undergone a makeover, with terrazzo tile flooring and a gentle nod to old-world Italy in its muted green and red colour scheme and art deco light fittings.
Cry Baby
Solomon Street in Adelaide is quickly becoming a hotbed for new bars, with another venue opening recently. Cry Baby – which opened in early July – is owned and operated by Jon Di Pinto, a longtime member of the Adelaide hospitality community. Di Pinto describes the bar as a “good times/rock and roll bar”, reflected in the bar’s focus on beer (12 taps pouring local craft brews) and spirits over cocktails, with a short list of seven riffs on the classics – though the team did recently collaborate with Never Never to create a house take on a Hanky Panky. Unique features of the bar include a 1972 jukebox playing classic rock and roll and an eye-catching ‘Cry Baby’ neon sign which dominates an internal wall. Guests are encouraged to enjoy a pizza from Sunny’s next door, and they’d be wise to line their stomachs – the party kicks on until 2am most nights.
Bistecca
Liquid & Larder, the team behind The Wild Rover and Grandma’s, recently opened a new multi-concept restaurant and bar in the heart of the Sydney CBD. Bistecca’s focal point is the eponymous bistecca alla Fiorentina, made famous in Florence centuries ago and celebrated worldwide. The cut and weighed steak is cooked fireside over charcoal, wood and olive branches to a perfect medium-rare, before being left to rest and served in traditional Italian fashion: well-seasoned with salt and pepper and a drizzle of olive oil. Washing down the steak is an extensive list of Italian and Australian wines and classic cocktails; an exclusive Four Pillars Negroni is on tap, and the bar team pumps out Aperol Spritz, Bellinis and Garibaldis by the dozen. Designed by Australian architectural firm Tom Mark Henry, this heritagefronted former hair salon – with its terrazzo floors, heaving shelves of amari, and dark timber – now transports guests straight to Italy.
Address: 60 Botany Rd, Alexandria NSW
Address: 421 Rathdowne St, Carlton VIC
Address: 11 Solomon St, Adelaide SA
Address: 3 Dalley St, Sydney NSW
BARS&clubs 11
Welcome to Hospo Club Hospitality is a unique line of work. The staff are semi-nocturnal, usually just clocking on as everyone else is logging off. The nights are late; the hours are long; the music is loud; the punters are boisterous. It’s tough work, and the sub-culture of people who undertake the task do it all to provide other people with quality experiences, and a vibrant social atmosphere to enjoy. It’s any wonder then, why the hospitality industry breeds some of the strongest workplace morale, where colleagues quickly become the closest of friends amidst the chaos of a busy venue. One such manifestation of this is the tradition known as ‘hospo discount’. Venues like to take care of their own, and in most cities this comes by way of an ‘industry’ discount available to hospo staff members who work at other venues in the scene. It’s a show of solidarity, and provides recognition to those who sacrifice their evenings so that others might enjoy them. However, for a long time this tradition has been little more than an unwritten rule. Enter ‘Hospo Club’. Hospitality promotions network, Bellr, has recently launched a new digital rewards program designed to unite hospo venues and staff through exclusive industry prices. The program is called the ‘Hospo Club’, and its generating significant interest at venues across the country. Venues who sign up are required to post a food, drink or entertainment offer that is exclusively available to members of the Hospo Club. It can be anything, and venues can change it as often as they like.
Any staff that work in the industry can also join the program. They simply email a copy of their most recent payslip (excluding any sensitive information) to hospoclub@bellr.com.au, and once approved they receive a unique membership code which grants them access. This unique ‘invite-only’ model ensures the club remains exclusive to people who actively work in the industry, and rewards the bartenders, wait staff, chefs and glassies, who work hard to make a night out possible for the rest of us. Speaking to Bellr co-founder Mitchell Stapleton-Coory, we learned a bit more about their goals with this concept: “This isn’t ground-breaking. Venues have been doing it for years. We’re just looking to better organise and promote what is already on offer, so hospo staff have more incentive to visit new venues and enjoy more of their city.” For venues or staff who are interested in finding out more, reach out to Bellr on the info below: 1800 957 858 / hospoclub@bellr.com.au
bellr.com.au/hospoclub
Bellr
TM
PATRON RELATIONSHIP MANAGEMENT
new faces
Felicity Eshman, Kittyhawk (NSW)
I became a bartender because… Uni was not for me, so I threw in the towel and decided to take on bartending full time – gotta do what you love right! My service weapon is… The finest banter behind the bar, always good to have a laugh with guests and show them everyone is here for a good time. The best part of the industry is… Meeting all the new hospo people around the place, ever since making the move from Wollongong to Sydney I’ve met so many awesome people. The worst part is... The hours, I love what I do but sometimes late nights make it hard for in other things. The international bar I want to visit is… AnonymouS Bar in the Czech Republic. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Jerry Seinfeld. The cocktail I would make cool again is… Mint Julep, bringing back the minty freshness. Drinkers are paying attention to… The staff. Guests in a venue like to see everyone having a good time while working, and like to be involved in the fun also. Give them something to remember. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… Wear name badges so everyone can say hello to one another and the whole world would be more friendly.
Tim Laferla, Charlie Parker’s (NSW)
I became a bartender… To break out of my shy geeky teenage self. That part of me is still there, it’s just the geekiness has shifted to cocktails now. My service weapon is… Humble, honest and genuine hospitality. It’s not rocket science. The best part of the industry is… The people, the community and the relationships you build with people all over the world. The worst part is… The drinking and drug culture. It’s a serious problem that plagues our industry more than most. The international bar I want to visit is… The Clumsies in Athens. It’s much more interesting what the lighthouse bars are doing in emerging cities, with more unique ingredients and styles. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Obviously it’s not possible now, but Steve Jobs. It would be amazing to pick a leadership figure brain like his. The cocktail I would make cool again is… The Mai Tai. I guess it’s already cool again but it’s just one of those drinks that has been bastardised so badly, but when made well is a beautiful thing. Drinkers are paying attention to… The Negroni! Coming back to Australia after nearly 6 years in London, its absolutely insane to see the shift in drinking culture and working in a bar where Negronis outsell Espresso Martinis. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… Daiquiris!
Sean Howard, Cry Baby (SA)
I became a bartender because… It was a job I could work around school and earn half decent money. Then I stopped studying because I had a much better time on shift. My service weapon is… My team. The best part of the industry is… The constant involvement in the now. Bartenders seem to be right up to scratch with new movements, trends, music, drinks and food, political progressions. The worst part is… The black cloud that lumbers in every bar. Almost every serious bartender who has been in the game a long time has faced their own battle. The international bar I want to visit is… Café No Sé, Antigua, Guatemala. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Bob Hawke. I’m not a political head but I just love the simplicity of the guy. Pour the man a pint, watch him knock it back, and let him be on his way. The cocktail I would make cool again is… The mighty Cuba Libre. I know it’s just a rum, coke and lime. But every time I don’t know what to order, it’s my panic drink. Drinkers are paying attention to… Simplicity. I think we got a little bit too carried away in the art of beverages that we started making things a little too out of the box for the general public. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… I don’t want to reign supreme. Leave that for the bowl cuts.
Angus Neale, Bobeche (WA)
I became a bartender because… No one’s looking for actors at the moment! Plus, I joke about being able to ‘act’ as a bartender. My service weapon is… A quadruple espresso and a shot of rye. The best part of the industry is… Learning something new every day, and then putting it into practice and being able to taste that sweet, sweet delicious goodness. The worst part is… Making 100 espresso martinis in a night. The international bar I want to visit is… Milk & Honey in London and Death & Co. in New York. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Serving Daniel Craig would be really cool. The cocktail I would make cool again is… The Vesper. Drinkers are paying attention to… If there’s any popcorn in my machine! If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… Try Fernet-Branca and film their reactions.
BARS&clubs 13
inspiration
A VERY BUNDY BIRTHDAY I
n early September, nearly 30 of Australia’s top bartending talent were invited on a ‘money can’t buy’, three-day experience to mark Bundaberg’s 130th birthday. After visiting the numerous farms that dot the Bundaberg region – and enjoying a behind-the-scenes distillery tour – attendees were also invited to blend their very own rum to bring back to their bar. While the ‘Blend Your Own Rum Experience’ is open to the public, this was possibly a more experienced cohort than Bundy would usually welcome – and the bartenders brought their blending A game. Sipping and sniffing their way through five different barrel finishes (sherry, port, bourbon, peated scotch and heavy charred American oak), careful experimentation was the key to success. Some, like Rockpool Dining Group’s Ryan Gavin, went in with a firm idea of the rum they were after – in his case, a tiki-style “with a bit of spice and a bit of backbone”; others, like Marshall King from the Pink Moon Saloon in Adelaide, aimed at versatility, and “something to mix with and put out some serious volume through summer”. Each bar will also be able to re-order their exact blend, with the distillery keeping the cask ratios on file for future reference.
Daniel Hilton (Lobo Plantation) gets in the spirit of things According to Charmaine Glase, Senior Communications Manager at Diageo, the trip was also “an opportunity to remind everyone that we’re the originals in Australia”. “It’s so exciting to see cocktail culture really explode, and these bars [who attended the trip] are a sign of how much consumers are interested in spirits and cocktail culture,” Glase told BARS&clubs. “This trip reminds them that we’re making some incredible rums and have been doing so right here in everyone’s backyard – and just takes those perceptions that might exist and shifts them a little bit.” “A lot of people know Bundy UP so well, and they know the Bundy bear, but they don’t really know the single estate distillery story – and I think this trip has really opened some eyes,” she added. “We have real confidence in the quality of the rum, and we know it’s as good as we say it is, so it’s just about sharing it.” It was clear that this message was one that all in attendance would take home with them. Pasan Wijesena (Jacoby’s and Earl’s Juke Joint, and also our cover star for this issue of BARS&clubs), said the trip had increased his appreciation of Bundy. “Most cocktail bars don’t sell much Bundy… [but] seeing where it’s made, and
Ryan Lane (The Gresham)
The distillery tour was a highlight of the trip 14 BARS&clubs
inspiration
Pasan Wijesena (Jacoby’s) and Dale Schoon (Earl’s Juke Joint)
HOW IS YOUR BAR GOING TO USE THE BESPOKE BUNDABERG RUM BLEND?
Seb Costello (Bad Frankie)
“We will probably offer it as an Old Fashioned-style drink, but I also want to have some fun with it. Jokingly I want to name a drink ‘Bundaburgandy’ and riff on Burgundian wines.” – Pasan Wijesena, Jacoby’s (and this issue’s cover star) “Potentially we’ll draw some inspiration from the great produce in the [Bundaberg] region. In the meantime, it’s delicious on its own.” – Tynan Sidhu, The Baxter Inn “I’ll be making a Mai Tai, but instead of using orgeat I’ll be making a fat-washed beer syrup.” – Ryan Gavin, Rockpool Dining Group “We’ll probably do a few mojito riffages, like the Queen’s Park Swizzle which is a golden rum mojito with demerara.” – Marshall King, Pink Moon Saloon “We’re doing a cocktail called the Snugglepot & Cuddlepie, mixing the rum with house-made macadamia orgeat, pineapple juice, a bit of absinthe, some lime juice and garnished with macadamias and eucalyptus leaves.” – Seb Costello, Bad Frankie
understanding where it’s from and how it is an expression of terroir, can only ever increase your appreciation of it.” “I’ve personally come away from Bundaberg with a real appreciation for not only the distillery, but also the agricultural importance of the region,” added The Baxter Inn’s Tynan Sidhu. “Bundaberg Rum is a truly iconic Aussie brand, and we tasted some seriously delicious casks which would quickly silence the haters.” However, it was Bad Frankie owner and Australian spirits expert Seb Costello who perhaps summed it up best: “When you think of big brands you think that there’s no soul behind it, but there was a lot of soul behind Bundaberg which was great to see.” Bespoke blended rum in hand, one final surprise would await the bartenders. As part of the birthday festivities, and as the culmination of a truly gourmet farewell dinner, Bundaberg also announced the launch of a new spiced rum. Those lucky enough to be in attendance were the first in Australia to try the new Bundaberg Rum Small Batch Spiced, which officially launched at the Spirit of Bundaberg Festival on 13 October. Turn to p.23 for full tasting notes for the new rum, as part of our Category Spotlight photoshoot.
BUNDABERG SPICED DARK & STORMY A long, full flavoured cocktail, pairing the rich spices of Bundaberg Rum Small Batch Spiced with sweet and spicy ginger beer and a tart burst of fresh lime. INGREDIENTS: • 45ml Bundaberg Rum Small Batch Spiced • 15ml Fresh Lime Juice • 100ml Ginger Beer METHOD: Pour the Bundaberg Rum Small Batch Spiced and lime juice into a highball glass. Fill the glass with ice, then top with ginger beer. Garnish with 2 lime wedges.
BARS&clubs 15
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ver two years in the making, Hum is taking the hospitality scene by storm. The communityfocused technology works to connect bars and clubs with leading, quality suppliers that are handpicked from across Australia. Hum offers a number of benefits, including access to deals of the day that are sent directly to your inbox. But Hum’s Greg Walsom points out that Hum is more than just a price-led platform. “We’re about helping out independent venues and bringing them together with great suppliers who are the absolute best in each category at a price that benefits everyone,” he says. “We’re not about a race to the bottom.” The platform also acts as an aggregation service, where bars can bring their existing suppliers into the platform. Suppliers do not need to be registered with the service for venues to order from them. There’s no need to juggle multiple ordering platforms from multiple suppliers. “We’re revolutionising ordering, promotions and communication between selected suppliers and venues. Giving venues up to 10 hours per week back each and every week. It’s what venues have been dreaming of, and who doesn’t want extra hours back so they can focus on their customers?” With a host of new features in the pipeline, new and interesting suppliers joining all the time, and bringing their unique stories to life, there’s so much to be gained from joining Hum. Oh, and it’s free. Register now at yourhum.com/join 16 BARS&clubs
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inspiration
ORGANISING YOUR OWN FLAIR COMPETITION
Bartenders continue to discover flair bartending, giving rise to more competitions around the world. In the last two years, World Flair Association (WFA) Grand Slams have popped up in Singapore, Hungary and the UK. In this article courtesy of the World Flair Association, WFA event organisers share their top tips for organising a flair bartending competition.
(Image credit: World Flair Association)
STEVE PARSONS - ORGANISER OF BRIGHTON WORLD FLAIR OPEN (UK): “Competitors and crew are key! They are the lifeblood of your competition. Make sure you offer to assist with anything that these people may need and never be too busy to answer any questions. If the competitors and crew have fun, then it is very likely that the audience will too! Organise with passion and don’t be afraid to show your love for flair bartending. Most organisers were once competitors so we understand what it means for those guys and girls flying half way around the world to compete in your competition.” BEATRICE ANDO - ORGANISER LOOLAPALOOSA (ITALY): “Make sure the rules for the competitors are as clear as possible, as well as any rules you have that relate to the main sponsor. Even if you think it is obvious, especially if you think it is obvious, write these things down and make them easily accessible to everyone. This way everyone is equal in their understanding and will be ready for everything – hopefully avoiding any problems with competitors claiming that they didn’t understand the rules later on. Your competitors are the main character of the 18 BARS&clubs
competition. Offer them involvement in various activities such as lunch or an after party and make sure to share with all digital media produced for the competition, encouraging them to share this on their own social media accounts to get your competition out to the biggest audience possible.” SHAHMIL LIN - ORGANISER WFA GRAND SLAM BARSTYLEZ BIG MATCH (SINGAPORE): “For your competition to go well you need to make sure you provide the basics. The basics include, good lighting for the stage and the competitors (take into account that the lighting cannot be blinding for competitors on stage as they are often throwing things into the air and having to look up); a proper preparation and practice area; a clear and punctual time schedule of the whole event so everyone knows what is going on at all times.” IVAR RUTKOVSIS - ORGANISER WFA GRAND SLAM FAIRMANIA (LATVIA): “Don’t be afraid to ask other professionals for their advice, be they professionals in flair, lighting and camera work, or events professionals. 90% of professionals will be happy to share some important advice. If necessary hire them. The knowledge they bring will most likely prove a good investment.”
inspiration
King Cocktail WHAT’S ONE THING EVERY BARTENDER SHOULD REMEMBER? Always greet your guests. It used to be that you’d walk in somewhere and the bartender would be busy chatting to his buddy, and you might get his attention 10 minutes later. Today, no! I don’t care if your bar is six-deep – all people need is acknowledgement, and the knowledge that they’re ‘on the list’. You’ve made eye contact, so they’ll wait, chat with their pals, watch you make those five drinks, and when their turn comes up they’re ready. If you don’t have that ability to multitask and connect, then they’ll just go next door where it’s not so crowded – and you might have lost your best customer. TRENDS COME AND GO, BUT WHAT’S CAPTURING YOUR ATTENTION AT THE MOMENT? The fact that the big drinks companies have bought into the fact that education is the most important thing in the bartending business today, and they’re putting millions of dollars into it. That, to me, is critical to the craft movement getting beyond just a few cute bars in each city and getting into the general market. People have to buy into it like they’ve bought into the culinary revolution. And in a way, they created our audience: people who are in love with big flavour, willing to take chances. We’ve just got to grab them now, they’re ours! WHAT’S INSPIRING YOU IN 2018? You’re going to see something really interesting soon, which is the craft dive bar. It’s happening all over the US – that is to say, people who have come out of the craft
Dale DeGroff – master bartender, author, and all-round legend – is a man who needs no introduction. The king himself was recently in Australia for the 2018 edition of De Kuyper’s ‘The Works’ Program, and BARS&clubs was lucky enough to sit down with DeGroff for a drink and a chat.
movement, but got bored with the tweezers and all of the bullshit and want to have fun again. They’re opening these wonderful bars with pinball machines and pool tables and making the same really cool cocktails, but in a much more fun environment.
ONE DRINK FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE – WHAT IS IT? Gin martini, straight up with an olive and a twist. It’s my desert island drink.
ANY ADVICE FOR YOUNG BARTENDERS, GIVEN YOUR LONGEVITY IN THIS INDUSTRY? Make sure you’re in the right profession, for one. And that means, can you handle people? Our basic and most important skill is to make friends out of difficult people. Another thing that young bartenders have to ask themselves: do you want to get married and have children? What’s your plan in life? I hit my most important job when my children were in school, and I wasn’t home for homework, ever. I never had dinner with my children, ever, when they were youngsters. On holidays they would come to the Rainbow Room and we’d have dinner there. And you’ve got to be prepared for that. WHAT’S THE WEIRDEST DRINK YOU’VE BEEN ASKED TO MAKE? Someone once wanted a martini with an anchovy stuffed olive – now, that’s become kind of normal, but the first time I heard it, it freaked me out. And I don’t like beetroot drinks, I think beetroot juice in drinks is weird. I’m one of the one-third of people who think beets taste like dirt. BARS&clubs 19
T UPPING THE ANTE: NIGHTJAR’S ARTS & CRAFTS COCKTAIL MENU
he award-winning London bar Nightjar launched a new, boundary-pushing cocktail menu in late June, that takes inspiration from the Arts & Crafts movement which flourished the turn of the last century. The precursor to Art Deco, the Arts & Crafts movement had a huge influence across the decorative and fine arts in Europe and North America between 1880 and 1920. Looking at the synergy between bartenders and artists, Head Bartender at Nightjar Antonio Pescatori and his team used this period’s highly decorative fine-art flourishes to inform the new menu. Each of the drinks are presented in unique glassware and other eclectic vessels that have been carved, shaped and decorated by the Nightjar team. And in keeping with Nightjar’s ethos, all drinks are based on traditional recipes taken from classic cocktail books published during the Arts & Crafts era. It’s definitely worth checking out a few of the inspiring creations (and recipes) from one of the world’s best bars – even if the glassware might be a little over the top for many!
20 BARS&clubs
inspiration
Fandango: Ysabel Regina, Avuá Amburana Cachaça, Port, Amontillado sherry, Madeira, Amarguinha Liqueur. Inspired by Cocktail de Paris by Georges Gabriel Themon (1929). “This light, stirred drink is filled with Spanish, Portuguese and Brazilian-inspired ingredients. Garnished with a toasted cracker with salt-cod cream, sweet peppers and pickled Alexanders, it is served straight up in a delicately painted cup.”
Olivette: Ketel One Vodka, Rinomato Aperitivo, Apricot beer, Prosecco, Buchu leaf liqueur, Kalamata olive brine. Inspired by Harry’s ABC of Mixing Cocktails by Harry Macelhone (1925). “This light, vodka spritz-style cocktail is a refreshing serve with a hint of Mediterranean savouriness and aromas. It is presented with a gnocchi stuffed with brine-steamed sundried tomato in olive powder.”
Honeymoon: Glenfiddich 12yo whisky, House made forbidden fruit liqueur (pomelo citrus, sherry and dry vermouth), Artichoke mead wine, Bulgarian rose infusion, Cynar, Mead wine, Fresh lemon, Myrrh absinthe bitters. Inspired by Recipes for Mixed Drinks by Hugo Ensslin (1916). “This cocktail is a nod to the ritual Celtic marriage ceremony, where the husband- and wife-to-be share a sip of Scotch whisky poured in a traditional quaich vessel, holding it with joined hands. Shaken then served in an ox-bone quaich, Nightjar’s version is garnished with citra clover and has a fresh, complex, tart and floral flavour profile, with a touch of bitterness.” BARS&clubs 21
dark spirits promotion
DARK
THE
NANT TASMANIAN SINGLE MALT HIGHLAND WHISKY PORT CASK
Lovingly distilled, matured then bottled by hand from a single port cask at the historic Nant Estate in the unspoilt highlands of Tasmania. At over 1,000 feet above sea level, the whisky is drawn in and out of the port cask at a much more considered rate; an effect that results in a more intense take up of the timber’s flavour and colour. Australian Whisky Holdings
SHOT AT
The Duke of Clarence
22 BARS&clubs
WILD TURKEY LONGBRANCH
BEENLEIGH DOUBLE BARREL
Made with eight-year-old Wild Turkey Bourbon, Longbranch is an exceptional bourbon with a bright gold colour and aroma that is a balanced blend of vanilla and spices. Flavours of caramel, pear, and hints of citrus round out the palate. The subtle, smoky finish is buttery smooth, with notes of gentle pepper and toasted oak. Campari Group
Expertly aged for over five years in ex-brandy vats and finished in ex-bourbon barrels to yield a rich golden-coloured rum, packed full of spiced oak and toffee apple notes that give way to honey, oak and lingering floral characters. The finish is silky smooth, best enjoyed neat or over ice. Australia’s 2018 Champion Rum Trophy and the only Gold medal dark rum winner at the Australian Distilled Spirit Awards. Vok Beverages
dark spirits promotion
SIDE BUNDABERG RUM SMALL BATCH SPICED
Warming aromas of sweet dried spices. Cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg hum over the sweetness of orange marmalade, fresh vanilla beans and dark caramel. The palate reveals golden syrup, star anise and an earthy, ginger spice, leading to roasted notes of raw cacao. The finish is dry and lingering with a tingle of black pepper and liquorice. Diageo
BELGROVE RYE WHISKY
BACARDI RESERVA OCHO
Bright gold appearance. Immediately appealing and distinctive with its dill/pickle opening scents. Second pass offers chamomile tea, hints of boiled lolly, cedary oak and peppermint. A light, silky entry follows through to a super smooth and quite delicate profile featuring medium dry flavours of chamomile tea, sourdough bread and unusual notes of dill and caraway. Dry, mildly tannic finish. Aftertaste is subtle but shows good length. Belgrove Distillery
Bacardi Reserva Ocho was created in 1862 and remained a private family blend for over seven generations. Barrel-aged under the Caribbean sun for a minimum of eight years with a rich, velvety body, possessing tasting notes of wood, apricot, nutmeg and butterscotch. Bacardi-Martini Australia
BARS&clubs 23
Hospo prices for hospo staff Does your venue offer hospo discount? Hospo Club is a place where venues can offer industry discount to current hospitality staff members. It’s invite-only, and you must be actively working in the industry to gain membership. Venues who join Hospo Club can attract more hospitality staff members as customers, while also helping to support those who make this great industry possible. To apply, please reach out on the following information: p 1800 957 858 e hospoclub@bellr.com.au
learn more:
bellr.com.au/hospoclub
Bellr
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PATRON RELATIONSHIP MANAGEMENT
gin
FINDING GINSPIRATION The growth in gin has seen its flavours and infusions grow ever more diverse, but is this increased variety affecting the versatility of this most mixable of spirits? Charlie Whitting investigates.
26 BARS&clubs
gin
T
here are surely fewer spirits whose reputation has undergone such a dramatic journey in the last 200 years. From the Mother’s Ruin of Victorian London to the bathtub gin of Prohibition to the stylish cocktails it has inspired, gin’s is a chequered history. And now, in this century, it is enjoying another intriguing chapter, as distillers bring ever more exotic and outlandish ingredients to sit alongside the juniper, and the world’s bartenders experiment and explore the possibilities with this versatile but increasingly varied spirit.
31% OF GIN DRINKERS ARE ‘EXPLORERS’ - ELEPHANT GIN
JUMPING JUNIPERS! Even the casual observer can see that the last five years has seen an explosion the number of gins being produced in almost every corner of the globe. The Barber Shop in Sydney, part of the Barrelhouse Group, now stocks over 700 gins from all over the world. For example, David Nguyen-Luu, group general manager at Barrelhouse Group, recently started stocking gins from South Africa, and has seen the Japanese gin market explode from one producer two years ago to 25 today. These ‘new wave’ gins still feature juniper berries, the defining botanical of the spirit, but increasingly they are dominated by other flavours. This can lead to a very different spirit, one that some purists argue is no longer a gin at all. For bartenders, these gins present opportunities to play around with flavours to create mixed drinks and cocktails that appeal to a wider audience, but also the challenge to balance them in a harmonious way. “There are dry styles and western styles, and Australian gins largely sit in that [second] category,” says Mikey Enright, co-director of Barrelhouse Group. “They have lots of botanicals. Aussie gins are not very juniper forward compared to what I like seeing, but there are lots of flavours from the different botanicals. How far can it go?
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Elephant Gin is infused with 14 botanicals, including 5 rare African botanicals to create a unique, aromatic, bold flavour profile. Copper pot distilled in 600 bottle batches, each batch is named after an elephant protected by our charity partners, Big Life Foundation and Space For Elephants.
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gin It’s an open book really. If you look at the flavoured stuff, it’s made the G&T more accessible.” “There is now basically a gin flavour profile or botanical mix that suits pretty much every palate,” adds Greg Kiss, booze guy of Luxe Wine + Spirits, which imports a range of gins including Elephant Gin. “You have gins with minimal botanicals such as Death’s Door with three botanicals to gins such as Monkey 47 (47 botanicals). Do more botanicals mean a ‘better’ gin? Definitely not. Does having more instruments in an orchestra mean they will make better music? It’s something that if used correctly contributes to the flavour complexity.” In part, these ‘new wave’ gins are simply trying to stand out in an increasingly crowded market. Gins with ever more specific points of difference are a major trend. Through steeping, infusion or a combination of the two, distillers can add to the principle juniper flavours, with infusion mellowing the flavours and steeping making them more intense. Other methods, such as vacuum distillation, have also been trialled. “The way that you distil those ingredients means you end up with very different attributes,” says Raj Nagra, global brand ambassador for Bombay Sapphire. “With steeping, it’s more pungent, and when you drink something steeped you feel it more in the back of the throat because you’re not pulverising the flavour. Those characteristics can have a definitive impact on the gin.” In Australia and around the world, the popular choices for botanicals has become increasingly indigenous and localised, or more exotic and undiscovered. Local links can be of great value in an increasingly provenance-driven bar scene, while peculiar and eye-catching additions can entice the experimental. But ultimately, for a bartender, it is quality that should always be the determining factor when creating a back bar offering. “The days of having an OK gin in a nice new coloured bottle with a story created in a marketing meeting have gone,” says Ben Luzz, managing director of Gin Palace in Melbourne. “The hooch has to be exceptional and the story has to be real and tangible, and the distiller has to be passionate and engaging.” THE COCKTAIL SPIRIT Unlike the other major spirits, gin is almost solely for mixing. The closest most people come to drinking neat gin is in a dry martini, and there are more gin cocktails than any other. It is a versatile drink, able to dominate, 28 BARS&clubs
THE CRIMSON MAINSAIL INGREDIENTS: • 40ml sloe gin • 20ml Makers Mark bourbon • 30ml lemon • 20ml egg whites • 10ml sugar syrup METHOD: Reverse dry shake. Strain into coupette. Dot with Angostura Bitters and run toothpick through for a ring of hearts. (Recipe courtesy of Hains & Co)
FOR BAR PROFESSIONALS WHO WANT MORE
NOW WITH GREATER REACH THAN EVER &clubs
WINTER 2018
BELVEDERE
Matt Pomeroy on terroir, rye and the way forward for vodka
WINTER 2018
&clubs
BELVEDERE
Matt Pomeroy on terroir, rye and the way forward for vodka
HALLOWEEN CO-HOSTED BY
WINTER COCKTAILS Keep your customers warm and merry
RUM
Ian Burrell on spiced rum as an entry-point
FLAIR GURU
The man behind Tom Cruise’s moves in Cocktail
WINTER COCKTAILS Keep your customers warm and merry
RUM
Ian Burrell on spiced rum as an entry-point
FLAIR GURU
The man behind Tom Cruise’s moves in Cocktail
Wednesday 31 October | Randwick Race Course Australian Liquor Industry Awards are voted by the industry for the industry.
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gin
ELEPHANT SLOE GIN FIZZ INGREDIENTS: • 50ml Elephant sloe gin • 15ml sugar syrup • 20ml lemon juice • 1 egg white • Optional 2 dashes cardamom, 2 dashes lavender METHOD: Dry shake all ingredients, including the egg white. Shake again over ice. Then single strain into highball glass and top up with soda white. 30 BARS&clubs
complement or subtly influence the overall flavour of a cocktail. In recent years, the ever-widening variety of botanicals in gin has made for greater experimentation in cocktails and G&Ts, backed up by a growing array of different tonics and garnishes. This has allowed bartenders to follow the innovative pathways of gin distillers. “It is obviously easier to fall back on classics, but the current popularity of gin has pressed the innovation button across the industry,” says Philip Ridyard, founder of Strait Brands. “These are exciting times as future classics are devised and delivered.” But it is important that your bar and your staff aren’t pigeon-holed
by any specific gin and that they experiment to find its place within your menu. So, while you can look to explore the more outlandish offerings, it is important to make sure you are able to use these gins to the utmost. It would be a shame for a bottle to gather dust because you’re only comfortable making one cocktail with it. “Gin is designed for mixing,” says Nagra. “When we talk about any cocktail it’s doesn’t matter what the recipe is, it has to be trending, it has to be replicable everywhere. Any gin has to make a martini, it has to make a sour, it has to make a G&T.” Gin’s mixability can be measured by how it interacts with other
gin
GINIVERSITY SMOKED Hemp S U b t ly s m o k e d f o r a s m o o t h finish and mellow flavour.
ingredients. Your range of gins should therefore be complemented by your range of tonics and garnishes. Just as you would approach a single malt selection with taste profiles and regions in mind, so too think about your gin offering in terms of styles as well as botanicals and countries of origin. “In the Golden Age people were drinking old tom, not London dry,” says Marcus Motteram, ‘the admiral’ at Hains & Co. “A lot of the old school cocktails call for old tom gin. When you’re mixing under heavy flavours you need powerful navy strength gins to come through. The lighter styles can make a stunning martini that’s light and floral. We break our gins into six or seven categories: basic gins – floral, tart, botanical – London dry gin, boozy like a navy strength, sweet like an old tom, barrel-aged, and a sweet style like sloe. People want to have a range of different experiences and it’s the same with gin.”
distiller y.com.au MADE IN MARGARET RIVER
tequila and mezcal
THE GROWING TASTE FOR AGAVE Long gone are the days when the only agave spirits available in Australia were cheap mixtos tequilas dressed in plastic hats and nasty faux-mezcals with dead worms submerged in them, writes Sacha Delfosse.
32 BARS&clubs
tequila and mezcal
W
hile there is a plethora of people who still shudder from the bad memories a bottle of tequila brings, and others who are still stuck in the ‘lick-sipsuck’ loop, these days amongst consumers there is a growing awareness of, and appreciation for, agave spirits. At the forefront of this new age are an array of authentic Mexican bars and restaurants that are dedicated to spreading the agave love, helping educate and engage patrons on the diverse variety of tequilas, mezcals and lesser known Mexican spirits such as raicilla, bacanora and sotol. Following in the footsteps of Phil Bayly’s legendary Café Pacifico, across the country you will find venues such as Tio’s Cervecería, Chula, Méjico, Carbón, Barrio Cellar, Caballitos, La Cholita, el Público, La Vida Urbana, El Grotto, Mamasita, Little Blood, Mezcalito, Mexican Society, Pepe’s Newmarket and Hot Tamale, all preaching from the agave bible. “Most people have had a bad experience with shooting bad tequila,” says Gianfranco Monti, general manager of el Público and La Vida Urbana. “Given that the flavour profile of this spirit is very memorable it drags a bad taste for a long time. It takes re-educating the palate with good agave spirits to bring people back into the category.
“The general public’s category awareness has definitely improved, yet we introduce someone to sipping agave spirits almost daily. Most bars now stock at least one expression of agave spirits. With such a diverse offering, tasting is the key to discover a preferred style.” GATEWAY AGAVE Greater understanding also gives consumers more interest to try different tequila expressions, and more consumer engagement with tequila means good things for other agave spirits. “The general customer that comes into El Grotto knows that we only have 100% Blue Weber Agave Tequila and are super confident to go through most of our tequilas, whereas a few years back people would avoid tequila at all cost,” El Grotto bar manager Phillip Weber says. “Mezcal is a slow but steady achiever; customers are starting to settle into drinking mezcal neat. Having said that, all our cocktails which predominately contain mezcal sell well!” Carbón Mexican’s food and beverage manager, Brett Harris, points out that “because tequila is such a beast and becoming bigger and bigger every year… mezcal is also along for the ride”. Reece Griffiths – manager at Chula and founder of The Agave Cartel – is also seeing customers becoming more
LA CONDESA INGREDIENTS: • 50ml Mezcal Joven • 20ml Ancho Vermouth • 20ml cherry port • 10ml Cynar METHOD: Stir and serve in cocktail glass. Garnish with port-soaked cherry. (Recipe by Reece Griffiths – Chula)
“adventurous with the mezcals they are drinking”. EDUCATION IS KEY When it comes to agave spirits, educating patrons is of utmost importance, and this starts with bars training staff and providing them with the necessary product knowledge, specific details on the different expressions and the stories behind a brand. At el Público and La Vida Urbana, different agave spirit producers get showcased quarterly, which includes masterclasses “covering production and background information on producers and their ranges”. “We provide details on specific expressions of agave to our guests on a daily basis,” Monti explains.
SMOKE, SWEET AND SOUR INGREDIENTS: • 25ml Ocho Blanco Tequila • 25ml Del Maguey Vida Mezcal • 30ml citric acid water • 20ml sugar syrup • 5ml agave • 5ml Suze METHOD: Throw and serve into a chilled saline sprayrimmed coupe glass. (Recipe by Brett Harris – Carbón Mexican) BARS&clubs 33
tequila and mezcal
STOCKING UP
Considering expanding your bar’s collection of agave spirits? We asked some of the country’s top agave aficionados for a list of their favourite tequilas and mezcals. “Tequila: Calle 23 Criollo, Fortaleza Blanco, Gran Orendain 7 años. Mezcal: Lágrimas de Dolores Cenizo, Del Maguey Tepeztate, El Jolgorio Madrecuixe, Derrumbes Oaxaca.” Gianfranco Monti, el Público and La Vida Urbana general manager “In no particular order our best-selling tequila brands would have to be Calle 23, Siete Leguas, Fortaleza, and Ocho. Mezcal-wise, it really depends on what the customer is looking for, but as a go-to, the Del Maguey, Alipus, Vago, and El Jolgorio expressions all sell well. My personal favourite tequila would have to be Siete Leguas Blanco as it is raw, true, and very fresh and a go to for a regular day of drinking tequila. Del Maguey Madrecuixe is super light in smoke and heavy in tropical fruit aromas, salt, and a light herbaceous undertone that always gets me.” Phillip Weber, El Grotto bar manager “Obviously Ocho, which is our house pour, sells the best, but after that I’d say for tequila we sell a fair amount of Tapatio also, Mezcal Del Maguey we seem to sell a lot with some brand recognition now being a part of it – we also love to get our patrons onto cool shit too like La Venenosa Raicilla! For me anything from La Altena distillery, it’s one of my favourite brands and juice, and at the moment Derrumbes is awesome.” Brett Harris, Carbón Mexican food and beverage manager “We do pretty huge volumes of our house agave spirits, but off the backbar, still-strength blancos are moving quick and are extra añejos. Mezcalwise we move a lot of wild agave mezcal, moving toward the more fruit driven styles from outside Oaxaca a lot of the time. I’m really loving Wild Cenizo at the moment, particularly Origin Raiz from Durango. With tequila, still-strength blancos are my jam, the new releases from Calle 23 (Criollo) and Fortaleza are stunning.” Reece Griffiths, Chula bar manager “Our house, Don Julio blanco, always sells high, however we do a tequila of the month with changes regularly so when our staff learn about them they sell them hard, the most successful so far has been Fortaleza, [which is] my personal favourite.” Ross Treasure, Caballitos bar manager 34 BARS&clubs
While the obvious food pairing for agave spirits is Mexican, it can pay off to look past the taco to the cuisines of other cultures
“We also host dinners that explore food and agave spirit matching.” El Grotto runs biweekly staff trainings and on quiet nights encourages staff to take the opportunity for some more direct customer education and recommend some of their favourite brands. Customers are also encouraged to enjoy their tequila accompanied by sangrita or verdita to ween them away from the habit of taking shots with lemon and salt. “We also explain to guests where their money is going to and just how the process from agave to bottle occurs, [which] helps people understand and encourages them to drink better booze,” Weber says. GET NERDY Over at Chula, the venue “went full agave nerd on our spirit list, breaking down each mezcal by its ‘Agave Family’, and explaining production variations for each bottle we carry”, Griffiths explains to BARS&clubs. “We also offer flights across all categories, but I spend most of my
time on the floor talking agave, grabbing bottles I have brought back, and tasting through some cool juice with whoever will listen. We wanted the opportunity for people to learn without it being forced upon them; it’s there if they want it, if not, sit back and smash another margarita.” Caballitos runs regular masterclasses for consumers, where attendees are given a chance to taste four different products and styles – a blanco, a reposado, an anejo as well as a mezcal – while getting schooled. “Story and history are [also] involved, it’s not just ‘have this one then this one then this one’,” explains bar manager Ross Treasure. “It’s ‘this is why you should have this one’ and ‘why it tastes like this’. The why is just as important as the how, [so] if there is time we will talk your ear off about everything agave.” CREATIVE FOOD PAIRINGS A great way to get people into agave spirits, especially if they are still weary or unfamiliar with
tequila and mezcal them, is obviously pairing the liquid with food, and although it’s a no-brainer to do this with Mexican food, it can go beyond that. “When you look at INGREDIENTS: Thai cuisine for instance, • 60ml Casamigos Reposado Thai food and Mexican • 15ml agave syrup food have a fair amount in • 4 dashes Fee Bros. Aztec Chocolate common, from the herbs Bitters that are used, to the spices and chillies as well,” says METHOD: Weber. “James Connolly at Stir and strain into a Rocks glass filled Long Chim, a Thai-focused with ice and garnish with an orange twist. restaurant, is doing some banging drinks with agave.” (Recipe by Dave Taylor – Defectors Bar) Griffiths asserts that the versatility of agave spirits means they can be paired with almost any cuisine, but he is quick to point out that they do work “so fucking well with Mexican cuisine”. “[There’s] so many complimentary flavours in the glass for the style of food we serve; it’s rustic, full of flavour and intense. We incorporate both tequila and mezcal in our kitchen as well. The best thing about Mexican cuisine and mezcal, is that its alive, it’s fun, it’s engaging and it’s a fiesta.” For venues finding it hard to match tequila and mezcal with food, Treasure offers some basic pointers such as pairing smoky mezcals “with big flavours like beef and lamb… while softer fresher tequilas go amazing with fresh citrus and white meats, so fresh seafood and light and spicy salads are perfect.” But remember, testing is necessary: “You still have to taste the tequila and mezcal first before you make plans for food to get the match right as there is so much variety,” he advises.
GOLDEN TICKET
WORDS OF WISDOM INGREDIENTS: • 20ml Char-pineapple sous vide Del Maguay Vida Mezcal • 20ml Yellow Chartreuse • 20ml Luxardo Maraschino • 30ml lemon juice • 15ml sugar syrup METHOD: Add all ingredients into a cocktail shaker, add cubed ice and shake vigorously. Fine strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with mint leaf and serve. (Recipe by Phillip Weber – El Grotto)
DO YOUR RESEARCH As the thirst for agave spirits grows, especially for more regional and artisanal expressions, sustainability becomes a key issue, and Monti believes it is important for bars to do their research to understand how and where the agave spirits they range are made. “Always check the NOM (Norma Oficial Mexicana) which is the individual code of the producing distillery. This information has to be on every bottle and can reveal details regarding production. We suggest focusing on sustainable brands and checking out different regions and expressions.” And though it might seem the public and the trade are spoilt for choice when it comes to agave spirits, there is still a lot more to explore such as high-strength and experimental cask-aged tequilas, ancestral and unique regional mezcals, and more. “The growth in the sotol and raicilla categories is very interesting,” says Griffiths. “Tutxi has been a revelation for me – an incredible spirit from northern Jalisco. There is a gold rush on mezcal – and many brands are popping up without concern for the future, so we have to choose carefully and give a fuck about the future of mezcal.” BARS&clubs 35
australian distilleries promotion
DOWN UNDER DISTILLING W
ith more distilleries in Australia than ever before, it’s no exaggeration to say that Aussie spirits are in a boom time. From leading brands like Four Pillars, Starward, Lark and Archie Rose, to small, single still start-ups that seem to be popping up every few weeks, there’s certainly no shortage of Australian spirits to choose from in 2018. According to figures from Nip of Courage, more than 150 distilleries are now open around the country – a statistic that is all the more impressive when you consider that as recently as 2013, there were less than 50. And while it’s all about gin at the moment, Nip of Courage’s Kathleen Davies predicts “exciting times ahead” on the whisky front, as liquid that was put in barrel two years ago (or even longer) reaches maturation. “With over 80 Australian whisky distilleries predominantly producing quality drams… 2019 is the year to look out for reasonable volumes of Australian whisky becoming available,” Davies told BARS&clubs. “The best thing that venues can do is to get on board now and start stocking their back bars with Australian whisky as it is considered an emerging category globally,” she adds. “There is huge interest 36 BARS&clubs
at the moment in the premium spirits category in general, and it generally offers great margins for venue owners.” STARTING YOUR OWN With all of this growth, it’s little surprise that a number of bartenders and drinks industry figures have forged a path on the distilling side of the equation in recent years. Two of the most prominent are Sean Baxter (Never Never) and Sebastian Reaburn (Anther), who have parlayed their experience behind the stick into their very own spirit labels. So, if the idea of opening your own distillery starts creeping into your mind, what are the main things to consider? “If you want to start a spirit brand in Australia today you need to be
Kathleen Davies
fearless,” Baxter says. “There will be so many things that will try and beat the crap out of you along the way, so you need to be able to take a hit and have the strength to keep on moving forward.” Reaburn would certainly agree; as part of a panel discussion at the recent Drinks Collective Show in Melbourne, he described the path to opening his own spirit brand as “not a process of genius, but a process of perseverance.” “There’s that famous quote: ‘do something you love, and you’ll never work a day in your life’,” Reaburn told the audience. “Well, we thought it appropriate when discussing how to start a small brand, to add a little bit of reality to that: ‘Do something you love, and you’ll work every hour you’ve got in terrible conditions, for no pay, forever.’ That’s the bad news…”. There’s also the wait time for getting your hands on a still. “What you’ll see is that a lot of the premium producers of equipment are up to their eyeballs in orders at the moment,” explains Baxter. “You can purchase stills ‘off the shelf’ reasonably quickly, but if you want something customised and built to specification, there’s huge waitlists at the moment. For stills manufactured in the UK, you’re probably looking
australian distilleries promotion at nine months plus, and in the US, maybe a year or more.” Remember too, that the tangible, physical elements of a distillery are only part of the overall process of creating your own spirit brand. Marketing, branding and distribution will probably end up taking up more of your time – but as Reaburn says, there’s no single part of starting your own spirit brand that’s impossible to do, “the challenge is knowing the very many pieces and being able to do all of them.” This is not to say that it’s impossible – just that if you choose this path, it won’t be easy. Having said that, you’ll probably find that your bar experience comes in handy in ways you wouldn’t have thought. “From a bartending perspective, don’t discount the importance of your hospitality experience, it is crucial when it comes to the development of a brand’s authenticity,” says Baxter. “Bartenders understand drink-styling, flavour trends, industry influencers, networking, and most importantly, are authorities when it comes to understanding the consumer.
“They are also very familiar with what works and doesn’t work with brands they have dealt with previously over many years behind the bar.”
INTERNATIONAL DEMAND Another source of optimism is the growing global appetite for Australian flavours – spirits included – as a result of this country’s unique produce, botanicals, and climactic conditions. “There’s a beautiful little statistic that came out of the Gin Foundry: in the UK, there’s around 121400 unique botanicals that can be distilled for unique flavours,” explains Reaburn. “In Australia, there is allegedly more than 22,000 and counting – all unique flavours that aren’t found anywhere else in the world. “Most of the world has some variation of a cow, but Australia has the kangaroo: that is the level of difference that we’re talking about between European flavours and Australian flavours. So the next ten years are going to be fantastic.” Davies also believes the quality ingredients and small-scale production methods both contribute to the fact that Aussie whiskies are “very much considered ‘hand crafted’ compared to commercial overseas whiskies which are produced in mass quantities.” In addition, Davies points to the diversity of Sebastian Reaburn and climatic zones Dervilla McGowan, Anther across Australia
Sean Baxter, Never Never – creating a wide range of whisky styles and unique aging techniques – as another unique selling point. Aussie spirits are also making their mark on the international stage; a recent example being the 2018 International Wine and Spirits Competition (IWSC), where Australian distilleries took home over 80 medals. “Australia’s distillery scene is only just blossoming, so there will be many more years of growth before we see it begin to plateau,” says Baxter. “Just like any boom, there will be some casualties along the way who perhaps underestimate the hard work and enormous expense required to build a successful spirit brand. However, expect to see more Australian spirits lining the shelves of your local bar, pub, restaurant or bottle shop.” And while it’s always risky to predict the future, few would bet against Baxter’s prediction, and the continued growth of Australian spirits. Turn over for a closer look at four of the distilleries doing exciting things in Australia at the moment.
AUSSIE DISTILLERIES: A STATE-BY-STATE BREAKDOWN ACT: 4 NSW: 35
QLD: 12 SA: 17
TAS: 35 VIC: 35
WA: 16 Figures courtesy of Nip of Courage BARS&clubs 37
australian distilleries promotion
Beenleigh Artisan Distillers Born and raised on the banks of the Albert River, Queensland… Some say it all began as a floating moonshine distillery, started by a rogue known as ‘The Bosun’. One thing that’s certain is that Beenleigh’s story began like many good ones do: with two friends (John and Frank), who had an idea. Over 130 years later, Beenleigh are still making rum the traditional way – sourcing molasses from the country’s last remaining family-owned sugar mill, and pot stilling using traditional copper equipment – and they’re even operating out of the same stone building, set on the banks of the Albert River. After distillation, every drop of Beenleigh spirit is aged in handmade oak brandy barrels, forming the brand’s distinctive flavor and its velvety smooth finish. And they’re being awarded for their efforts, with the Beenleigh Double Barrel Hand Crafted 5 year old rum being named Australia’s Champion Rum for 2018. The distillery also produces gold medal-winning White, Australian Spiced, Gold, Dark, Port and Bourbon Barrel Rum.
Craft your own Beenleigh also offers bartenders the opportunity to create and name their own rum blend. The Master of Rum experience – exclusively available for bars – includes an exclusive blending masterclass with Beenleigh’s Master Distiller Wayne Stewart, barrel tasting, a distillery tour, and a personalized 700ml bottle of rum to take back to your bar. Family-owned, hand-crafted, and uniquely Australian – every drop of Beenleigh carries with it the tall stories, colourful characters and rich heritage that make it so unique. So don’t be shy – craft your very own blend and add to this legacy now. For all trade enquiries please contact Sarah Habenschuss on 0411 743 292 or via email (info@ beenleighrum.com.au)
38 BARS&clubs
Twenty Third Street Distillery Passion, creativity and reinvention of the old with the new… Twenty Third Street Distillery is the new incarnation of a century-old landmark in Renmark, in the heart of South Australia’s fertile Riverland region. The distillery was first built by Barossa firm Chateau Tanunda in 1914 to take advantage of burgeoning Riverland harvests. After a series of mergers and takeovers, the old Renmano site ceased operation in 2002 – but the spirit lingered, and in 2016 the Bickford’s Group opened the doors to the rejuvenated site. “We managed to lay our hands on a pair of South Australian built copper stills of around the same vintage as our building,” explains Twenty Third Street’s Gabrielle Millane. “With components repaired, tweaked and tuned, these fine old girls are the living pulse of our distillery. They add a little well-experienced, knowing sass to every drop.” The Twenty Third Street stable of premium craft spirits is growing, and now includes seven core products: Signature Gin, Riverland Rose Vodka, Not Your Nanna’s Brandy, Prime 5 Brandy, Navy Strength Gin, Barrel Aged Gin and Australian Vodka – with the latter three launching within the last two months. The striking design of the distillery’s range comes courtesy of local artists, who are commissioned to create the artwork for the labels. While the Signature Gin (infused with ten botanicals including local mandarins and limes) is a standout, the dark horse in the distillery’s range is Not Your Nanna’s Brandy – specifically created to reignite the brandy scene with a healthy dose of ‘cool’. As a testament to the quality of its output, both spirits took home a Double Gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in 2017, less than a year after the distillery opened. For all trade enquiries please contact trade@23rdstreetdistillery.com.au
australian distilleries promotion
Belgrove Distillery One of the most unique distilleries in Australia, if not the world… Belgrove Distillery, located around 45 minutes north of Hobart, does things a little differently. Not only is it home to Australia’s first (and only) 100% rye whisky, but distiller and owner Peter Bignell also grows his own rye corn on the same farmland that is home to his distillery – producing his whisky on a copper still that he built from scratch, no less. In short, it’s a ‘closed loop’ operation: the still is direct fired by cooking oil recycled from a roadhouse down the road, water for brewing and diluting is harvested from the roof, yeast is often reused, and Bignell feeds the spent mash to his sheep. Talk about sustainable. “The two main products we sell would be the Rye Whisky, which is a vatting of a number of different barrels, and the other we sell a lot of is a coffee liqueur we call Black Rye,” Bignell told BARS&clubs. Other, even smaller batch whiskies produced by Belgrove include a peated rye (with the peat sourced from a bog behind his brother’s house), an oat whisky, and a rather unique, soon to be released liquid by the name of Wholly Shit – a rye whisky smoked with sheep dung. And his hard work is paying dividends; Bignell lists the 94.5 ‘Liquid Gold’ rating he received for his Rye Whisky from Jim Murray, and his recent success at the Australian Icons of Whisky Awards – where, among other accolades, Belgrove was named Craft Producer of the Year – as his proudest achievements. As for serving suggestions? “I always say if people really want to taste what it is I produce, you really need to sip it at room temperature with maybe a little bit of water, and that’s it,” says Bignell. “But really, however people like it – have it that way.”
Never Never Distilling Co. Nobody puts juniper in the corner… When it comes to the most prominent flavours found in contemporary Australian gin, juniper is often pushed into the background. However, there are some brands proudly flying the juniper flag and bringing this magnificent botanical in from the cold. If you ask the owners of Never Never Distilling Co., the juniper revolution has well and truly begun. After launching their brand a little over a year ago, their signature-style Triple Juniper Gin has won accolades globally for its rich, pine-drenched flavour. “From the outset we wanted to make a gin that would be celebrated by lovers of the classic gin style,” says Never Never Distilling Co’s Brand Director, Sean Baxter. “It was these particular gins that got us into loving classic drinks in the first place. It’s important to us that the juniper flavour is pronounced when mixed with tonic and in classic cocktails.” After winning three gold medals at the San Francisco World Spirit Competition, London Gin Masters and SIP Awards, they have proven in a very short time frame that juniper forward gin is something that is pined for by consumers. “Juniper, as the predominant botanical flavour of gin, is the very thing that brought the vast majority of people to gin in the first place, so we’re all about respecting our signature ingredient,” says Director, George Georgiadis. “We’ve taken it to the next level, with our three-method distillation, complementary botanicals designed to showcase the juniper, and our bold style.”
(l-r) Owners Tim Boast, Sean Baxter and George Georgiadis
BARS&clubs 39
liqueurs
LIQUEUR FOR BOREDOM Liqueurs are no longer just the hyper-sugary, technicolour sweetener of the ‘90s. In recent years, a consideration of ‘craft’, produce and process has crept into this category too, writes Joe Sinagra.
S
ay what you will, but the liqueurs category has weathered some pretty rough times. Case in point: the late ‘90s, when it seemed every cocktail contained a heavy-handed pour of at least one – if not more – sweet and brightly-coloured liqueurs. It was mayhem, but we survived – and when you walk into a bar these days, you’re unlikely to see a back bar dominated by one producer’s full range of liqueurs lit up like a Christmas tree, and much more likely to see them used sparingly and with a light touch. Bartenders are also showing a much more discerning mentality as to which liqueurs they are using, often cherry picking their favourites from a range of producers instead of stocking an entire line-up from one producer. THE BASICS When it comes to liqueurs, it really boils down to just two things: sugar and flavour. Sounds pretty simple, right? We all know that liqueurs are flavoured alcoholic liquids that are sweetened, so it seems logical. This, however, hasn’t always been the case. 40 BARS&clubs
The key for bartenders is flavour. “It has to taste like what it says on the label – nothing too sweet or artificial,” says Door Knock’s bar manager Jono Carr. According to Carr, when bartenders are using liqueurs, they’re “building on existing flavours in the beverage” or “adding an interesting, contradictory touch”. If the flavour isn’t right, this becomes much harder to do. Producers are also looking more closely at what they’re doing, and as a result, we are seeing a move away from artificially flavoured sugar bombs to quality liqueurs showcasing the peak flavour of their base product. According to Nick Tesar from Marionette, it’s about “working with the producers” and “the quality of the produce”. TRUST THE PROCESS As the quality of produce has risen, a noticeable increase in chat from brands about the quality of their processes has occurred too. Producers are making sure to communicate the importance of using the extraction techniques that result in the most natural and consistent flavour profile to the trade.
liqueurs
NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK There are more than a few liqueur producers who seem to have been around forever, but there are also a few young upstarts breathing new life back into the category – and exciting bartenders all over again with their unique products. MARIONETTE This Australian producer was started by a small group of industry professionals who use their knowledge and understanding of the current market to create fantastic, classic fruit liqueurs that meet the needs of the modern bartender. Their products are specifically designed with cocktails in mind, so the balance of real flavour and sweetness is spot on. If you haven’t tasted it yet there’s plenty of excitement around their Dry Cassis, Orange Curacao and Apricot Brandy (try it in the Charlie Chaplin recipe!). TEMPUS FUGIT SPIRITS Starting out with Absinthe, the Tempus Fugit Spirits range now includes several very high-quality liqueurs that have bartenders frothing at the bit – in particular, bartender favourites Crème de Banane and Crème de Menthe Glaciale. Banana has become quite a trendy flavour with the cocktail set over the last year or so, while Crème de Menthe has seen bartenders fall back in love with Stingers and Grasshoppers all over again.
Liqueurs are usually made using either maceration, distillation or a combination of both. Producers communicating – in technical detail – why they are using a particular method or methods has become more common, as they try to also communicate the level of thought and care that has gone into producing a quality product. Maceration is used to extract flavour by simply soaking the ingredients in a base alcohol. Once the desired flavour has been extracted, the flavoured base is strained of the ingredient and sugar and water is added. This process means that alcohol soluble flavours are easily transferred to the base spirit. Distillation can start very similarly to maceration. A flavoured base alcohol may be passed through a still to refine the flavours extracted via maceration. It can, however, be used as a flavour extraction in its own right through vapour infusion, with a neutral base alcohol heated and converted to gas, which then passes through a basket containing botanicals. The hot gas passes through the botanical basket extracting lighter flavour elements from the botanicals and continuing to carry them through the still to the condenser before being converted back to liquid state. This process works incredibly well with light flavour components, leaving behind heavier elements. Often there can be a combination of these processes employed to ensure maximum extraction and complexity of flavour. A distilled flavoured spirit can be used as a base for maceration or blended into a completed maceration to add a different flavour note of the base ingredient. In this way, producers can really layer flavours with the result being as close to a natural flavour as possible. THE POWER OF MYTH Produced by monks, from a secret recipe, passed down from generation to generation, using rare herbs, locally foraged from a micro ecosystem, high up in a mountain and harvested by virgins. You’ve no doubt heard similar stories from liqueur companies of all sizes – but does it all really matter? According to Bacardi-Martini brand ambassador Peter Hollands, who works with the De Kuyper portfolio of liqueurs, “it’s the experience and knowledge of making quality products”. Marionette’s Tesar agrees, saying that a story “builds an element of trust”, but goes on to point out that for brands without this history, “connection to the industry is key”. As far as bartenders are concerned, it’s all about adding to a product’s story and sparking a conversation with the guest. Or, in the words of The Gresham’s Kal Moore, “telling a BS story about monks making the product for a couple of hundred years and hey presto”. Generating this sort of interesting backstory builds back into that element of trust with the guest, as well as offering a point of difference. WHERE TO FROM HERE? When you look at the bartending community’s favourite liqueurs to stock, there’s a few that keep popping up. BARS&clubs 41
liqueurs Fruit flavours like triple sec (orange) and apricot brandy seem to be clear winners, along with herbal liqueurs like Chartreuse and DOM Benedictine. Add in a cacao of some type, and you’ve pretty much nailed most of a bartender’s arsenal of liqueurs. The interesting inclusion however seems to come in the form of Crème de Menthe. A few snuck this cheeky, oldschool mint liqueur onto their lists as a bit of an indulgence for drinks like Stingers and Grasshoppers. Crème de Menthe is seeing somewhat of a resurgence with bartenders who are enjoying the move away from the sleeve-gartered, sombre bartender to a more fun and approachable bartending style – and in some cases, playing around with flavours that were once the realm of the colour filled ‘90s. This move towards a more relaxed and approachable style of bartender is having a huge influence in the modern market for liqueurs. While it has had the effect of bartenders experimenting with old school forgotten favourites like Crème de Menthe or Banane, bartenders in 2018 are more concerned with the quality of each liqueur than they might have been back in the day. In essence, the technical and exacting approach of the ‘craft’ bartender has managed to cross over to liqueurs, an evolution that has led to a focus on quality ingredients without pretension. Producers have realised this, and refocused their efforts and the way they communicate with the industry to reflect these changing attitudes.
Halford Bar’s take on the classic Charlie Chaplin
CHARLIE CHAPLIN It’s hard to argue with a classic Charlie Chaplin cocktail. It’s been kicking around since the early 1900s – originally created in New York’s Waldorf-Astoria – and you’d be hard pressed to find a guest who doesn’t like them. The key to a great one though is all in the quality of ingredients. Being an equal parts cocktail, the drink hinges on the balance of sweetness provided by the sloe gin (a gin-based sloe berry liqueur) and the apricot brandy. What really puts this drink into greatness, however, is picking an apricot brandy with some depth. Purely sweet and one-dimensional apricot brandies tend to leave the cocktail flat, while quality apricot brandies add a depth which helps to not only offset the sweetness, but also give the cocktail a complexity beyond just a sweet/ sour balance. INGREDIENTS: • 1 part sloe gin • 1 part quality apricot brandy • 1 part lime juice
A typical Grasshopper 42 BARS&clubs
METHOD: Add all to a shaker with ice. Shake and fine strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime wheel.
THE CHANGING FACE OF IPA The idea of the IPA was revolutionised by the craft beer movement years ago, spawning a whole range of different interpretations of the style. The New England IPA (NEIPA) is the latest in a long line of innovative approaches. English IPA This is the original format of the style, the one from which all others have evolved. Originally, the beer would have been heavily hopped to preserve it on the long sea trip from Great Britain to India. The English hops used give a grassy, earthy taste accompanied with occasional bursts of citrus, but this is mostly a malty, bitter beer.
Double IPA The IPA revolution centred around hops and the flavours that they could bring and, inevitably, brewers were soon competing to see who could put the most hops into their brews, not to mention dry hopping and double dry hopping. High alcohol and malt sweetness are balanced by the bitterness of a deluge of hops. For a while, this was as hoppy as beers got. Black IPA Who says that just because IPA features the word ‘pale’ that the beer should be pale? Not craft brewers, that’s for sure! You could argue that these aren’t true IPAs, but the aromas they offer would certainly beg to differ. Dark as any stout, Black IPAs offer a similar smelling experience to those old West Coast IPAs, but bring more body and roasted flavours to the palate.
West Coast IPA This was the beer that made the IPA world famous and set the ball rolling for ever greater usages of hops. It was invented in California by early exponents of the craft beer movement and uses large amounts of big American hops to bring lots of citrus and tropical fruits that balance significant bitterness. Cascade, Citra and Chinook were the original trio of hops used, but people have been bringing others to the party ever since.
The Belgian IPA Why would you not want to bring the Belgians to the IPA party? Usually, this style of IPA makes use of Belgian yeasts to add that spicy, stone fruit edge. Or you could put in brettanomyces to bring some zest to the beer.
Brut IPA This beer shares characteristics of West Coast and New England IPAs, but enzymes are added in the cold stage of the brewing process, resulting a drier beer, as the name Brut suggests. You’ll probably see more and more Aussie craft brewers release a Brut in the coming months. Session IPA While there’s plenty to be said for the ambition of putting more hops and alcohol than you know what to do with into your beers to create these ‘hop bombs’, people are not always after a 12% or even a 7% beer of an afternoon. The Session IPA aims to get the fullest amount of flavour from a lower ABV to create a beer that you can sit and crush all afternoon. These beers are usually no more than 5%, with plenty of dryness and hop aroma.
New England IPA Hazy, juicy and with a lower bitterness when compared to other IPAs, NEIPAs have taken the craft beer world by storm in the last 18 months. Aggressively hopped, this style is known for its juice bowl aromatics and mouthfeel.
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WINTER 2018
NO.745 JULY 2018
vol. 35 no. 8 - SEPTEMBER 2018
AUSTRALIA’S LEADING LIQUOR INDUSTRY MAGAZINE
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vol. 37 no. 5 - JUNE 2018
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Romance is dead
HOW THE TRUFFLE WENT FROM ADORED TO OVERUSED
WINTER COCKTAILS
Sugar rush
Keep your customers warm and merry
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The man behind Tom Cruise’s moves in Cocktail
PLUS: THE RETURN OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD BAR – JAMES IRVINE IN MEXICO – AUSTRALIAN SPIRITS
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ISSUE 46 SPRING 2018 PRICE $9.95 (NZ $11.95)
IPA:
THE NEXT GENERATION
STOMPING GROUND IS AUSTRALIA’S BEST BREWPUB
How NEIPAs have changed the brewing world forever
WHO ELSE MADE OUR LIST?
CIDER APPLES FOR ALL! WWW.BEERANDBREWER.COM
BEERS & CIDERS
TASTED
Why is everyone into ciders again?
PLUS! KIM JORDAN AND DICK CANTWELL | BRANDING YOUR BREWERY | BREWING INGREDIENTS: WHAT’S HOT
BEER & BREWER
THE SHOUT
PUB LEADERS SUMMIT
AUSTRALIAN LIQUOR INDUSTRY AWARDS
RESTAURANT LEADERS SUMMIT
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