RUM PIRATE OR PREMIUM

For better or worse, rum has always been a rebellious spirit. This could be how it was raised, or it could be because it never had to abide by the rules like other spirits. But, as Tom Bulmer explains, one thing is for certain: rum has plenty of room to grow.

Over the last 10 years in Australia, we’ve seen a major shift in both consumer and trade perspectives of rum, which is greatly influencing rum’s direction. Gone are the days of rum being the “bogan” spirit, with the shift in rum’s perception largely being driven by investment in consumer and cocktail education by brands like Bundaberg. As more brands start to focus on the quality of their product and educating their drinkers, we are going to see an ongoing shift towards better products and guests that are happy to try them.

Of course, the word on everyone’s lips at the moment is premiumisation. However, will rum be able to join the ranks of single malts and cognacs? And more importantly, should it? Rum has always been part of the cocktail scene, though its ability to be seen as a premium spirit has always been a difficult stretch for this pirate.

Nevertheless, rum brands have picked up on the opportunity and over the last couple of years we’ve started to see vintage, limited release, single still and even single vineyard rums enter the market – in many ways adopting the SKU structure that whisky has had for years. The fact is, consumers that order premium spirits already know this language and the idea of ordering based on these features resonates with them.

THE HURDLES OF HISTORY

Given that rum is moving to the premium market, there are more than a few hurdles it must overcome – mostly relating to its naughty, sugary past. I still remember a training session 10 years ago where Manuel Terron proclaimed, “The story of rum is the story of sugar”. He was right, unfortunately; the addition of sugar and caramel has always been there in the shadows. But as brands begin to position rum as a premium, ‘adult’ spirit, it’s going to have to grow up a little. Especially if these premiumised rums start to adapt whisky terminology, pretty bottles and go over the $100 mark.

So, what does this mean for rum? Lots of debate, arguments, rebellions, and maybe even the occasional coup d’état. Without a single body or classification of rum, we may as well sit back with some popcorn and watch.

The CEO of Diplomatico was recently asked what he thought about the addition of sugar torum. “We believe transparency in the production ways is key,” he replied. “Doing so only strengthens rum’s position and credibility, not weakening it.” All of these arguments are good news, as the airing of dirty laundry also means the production process of rum is becoming more transparent.

Rum will never reach premiumisation in the same way as other spirits through uniform laws that govern its production. Nor should it – rum has no rules because it has grown up in more than one nation, making it a distinctly multicultural spirit. If rum were forced into a single, unified production process it’d be as one-dimensional as missionary or vodka, and would lose its most defining feature. But to be premium it will need to define itself through transparency.

Harvesting sugarcane at Husk Distillery

CELEBRATE DIFFERENCE

These cultural differences are important. When choosing your back bar, remember that with so much diversity you need to ensure that the rums you choose aren’t all the same. Make sure you get a light Cuban, a heavy Jamaican, an easy-going Barbadian, and yes even a delicious spiced for dessert.

But also ask for transparency. When your rum rep comes in to get you to stock a new product, ask questions. Where is this actually made? How much sugar in the bottle? Is this age statement actually the youngest rum in the bottle? If they smile and answer each question promptly, then chances are it’s a great product. If they start looking for the nearest fire exit, while saying “the distillery doesn’t really give out that information”, then you have your answer. The choice of what you stock and sell in your bar is a question of quality. If you’re shooting for high quality, then you should expect nothing less from your rums.

LOCAL TALENT

One of the most exciting recent developments is the resurgence of Australian rum production and micro-distilling. The direct access of consumers to rum production in local neighbourhoods is going to do a lot to transform perceptions. And while we’ve seen local gin take the spotlight in Australia over the few years, rum is hot on its heels.

In fact, five micro-distilleries started rum production in the last year alone – but you might not have heard, because unlike gin, you can’t just steep in botanicals and sell it straight away. Rum production requires access to sugarcane or molasses, and then the minimum age laws in Australia mean even the first attempts won’t be seen for two to three years.

The good news though is that where there’s a pirate, there’s a way. Many of these distilleries and brands are releasing ‘rum’ alternatives until their rum meets the age requirement. Expect to see plenty of local “rhum”, “cane spirit”, and “cachaca” on the market in the next year.

Also, while changing the minds of educated spirit drinkers is important for brands seeking immediate results, but there’s a much greater long-term effect for rum in the 18-25 year old market. Our ability to get the next generation drinking rum now will pay dividends for years to come. Enter rum’s naughty cousin…

One man who has done more than nearly any other for the rum category is Ian Burrell

SOPHISTICATED SPICE

Spiced rum has encapsulated rum’s growth more than anything else in the category and this is poised to continue, as uni students everywhere keep heading out to party. You might think this is terrible, but with a premiumised market on the way, today’s spiced rum drinker could be tomorrow’s vintage release, single barrel aficionado.

With the new brand growth in the spiced rum market we are also seeing more identifiable and quality driven spiced rums emerge – with single-spice or flavour rums starting to sub-divide the subcategory. I’m amazed by the efforts of local distillers: Husk Bam Bam with its locally-sourced spices, unique distillate spicing from Brix spiced, and even the sugar-free spiced Cargo Cult. But my pick for the rum that epitomises the seeping of high-end culture into the spiced and flavoured category? It has to be Pineapple rum – the hero we didn’t know we needed, but deserve.

Spiced and flavoured rum will continue to have a part to play in the overall category. But the question remains, will it also premiumise as its own category, or will it remain the pirate we know and love? Time will tell.

OVER TO YOU

Ultimately the only way rum will spread is by bars and bartenders getting involved in rum culture. The resurgence of premium rum and Tiki bars has helped significantly in conveying what rum can be: a culture that is less speakeasy and more easy, clad in anything from a suit to a Hawaiian shirt. With any other spirit, drinking a cocktail in a pineapple that’s been set on fire wouldn’t make sense, but with rum it’s required.

Rum is the social spirit. It is diverse, multicultural, sustainable, and most importantly it’ll always greet you with a smile and a hug as it takes you back to the tropics.

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GOOD OLD FASHIONED JOINT

GOOD OLD FASHIONED JOINT

INGREDIENTS:

• 60ml House Barrel blended rum

• 5ml Poire William pear liqueur

• 10ml porcini mushroom & clove spice syrup

• 2ml Canadian maple syrup

• 2 dash Old Fashioned bitters

• 1 dash Angostura bitters

METHOD: Stir down in a mixing glass, strain into a double rocks over cubed ice. (Recipe by Anthony Moore, Rosie Campbell’s)

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MANDININA MARTINEZ

MANDININA MARTINEZ

INGREDIENTS:

• 30ml La Mauny 55%

• 30ml Ginger wine

• 10ml DOM Benedictine

• 10ml Luxardo

• 2 dashes Angostura bitters

• 1 dash absinthe

METHOD: Served in a Nick & Nora martini glass (Recipe by Daniel Hilton, Lobo Plantation)

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SUSTAINABILITY Rum is adapting to the current market trends but it could still go further. Sustainable practices are a major issue for our industry and hopefully this won’t just be a trend. Rum is one of the only spirits that is made from a waste by-product, molasses. In fact, many of the historical pratices in rum making are aimed at minimising waste. Sustainability was engrained into rum houses, whether it was using local streams to power the crushing of the cane, capturing the CO2 and giving soda companies their fizz, or separating the raw sugar from the molasses by sugarcane husk candle light. In fact, the sheer amount of power from burning sugarcane husk into electricity could power a small town or a small bar industry. Rum has all of this in its DNA, we but to grow we have to adapt best practice and transparency in how we approach rum.