Hospitality April 2020 by The Intermedia Group

NO.762 APRIL 2020

MARTINIS • LILLIA McCABE • SASHIMI

CONTENTS // April

Contents APRIL 2020

26 Regulars 8 // IN FOCUS Stalactites Group on securing two Jimmy Grants stores. 10 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more. 12 // PRODUCE Bush tomatoes are the native ingredient rising in popularity. 14 // SEAFOOD The simplicity of sashimi. 18 // BEST PRACTICE What you need to know about TikTok.

4 | Hospitality

19 // COLUMN Junda Khoo on the impacts of COVID-19. 20 // DRINKS Martinis are the ultimate in customisable cocktails. 22 // BUSINESS PROFILE Lillia McCabe: the chef who made the jump to front of house. 40 // BEHIND THE SCENES Icebergs’ scarlet prawn risotto. 41 // EQUIPMENT If you sell charcuterie, you need a meat slicer. 42 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Sommelier Laurent Rospars.

Features 26 // VEGAN Plant-based meats are taking over a menu near you. 32 // JUDGING The industry’s leading chefs are giving back to the next generation. 36 // EQUIPMENT The latest innovations in equipment.

Loaded Hot Dogs with MAGGI Fiery Hot Sauce & Legendary BBQ Sauce

FLAVOUR t ou k c kno Mexican style Parmi, with MAGGI Salsa Roja

Southern fried chicken burger with MAGGI Legendary BBQ Sauce

Sweet Potato & Peri Peri Pizza with BUITONI Sugo per Pasta

Korean BBQ Ribs with MAGGI Korean BBQ Sauce

Up your flavour game with the Flavours of the World range Visit nestleprofessional.com.au or contact your local NestlÃ© Professional Sales Representative on 1800 20 30 50.

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

DROP BY Aria’s new bar menu is all about the snack life. @hospitalitymagazine

Banding together THERE’S NO DENYING the devastating

issue, we will continue to share stories as

impact COVID-19 is having on the industry, on

per normal.

a local and global scale. Venues in Australia

THE PERFECT BITE The crab toast with uni butter from The Catch is a perfect mouthful of flavour. @madelinewoolway

This issue, Madeline Woolway talks to

have been forced to close, staff have lost their

current Icebergs sommelier Lillia McCabe

jobs and restaurants and cafes are forced to

about forging a new career in an industry

rely on takeaway and delivery to survive the

she grew up in, Junda Khoo pens a column on

coming months.

the impacts of COVID-19 on his Haymarket

But there are signs of hope. Restaurants

business and we talk to Danielle Alvarez and

are selling fresh produce and pantry staples,

Peter Gilmore about giving back to the next

others are moving to takeaway, offering

generation of chefs coming up the ranks.

meal kits, ramping up hygiene practices and communicating changes on social media and

I hope you enjoy this issue.

there’s been a wave of venues across the

Annabelle Cloros

board going card-only.

Editor

SOOTHE THE SOUL Slow-cooked beef noodle soup with French onions — highly recommend for the cooler months ahead. @annabellecloros

We are covering the latest updates on

hospitalitymagazine.com.au, but in our print

@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

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6 | Hospitality

IN FOCUS // Hella Good expands

Stalactites Group moves on Jimmy Grants

The Greek hospitality group has confirmed it’s behind the purchase of two Jimmy Grants locations. WORDS Annabelle Cloros MELBOURNE’S MADE ESTABLISHMENT entered voluntary administration in February, and it wasn’t long before

quality Greek food … in a fast-paced, quick-service environment.”

administrators announced the group’s

Stalactites Group has secured Jimmy

handful of Made’s 12 venues were snapped

and Fitzroy. The concept is anchored by

portfolio was up for grabs. But only a up in the end.

Administrators KordaMentha said

there was interest in Jimmy Grants as

a package; however a sale never went

ahead despite “considerable interest”. It’s now been confirmed Stalactites Group

are the buyers behind two Jimmy Grants sites, with the group set to expand their Hella Good concept.

“The Hella Good brand is an offshoot

of Stalactites [the group’s namesake

restaurant], which has been in Lonsdale Street since 1978,” says Nicole

Grants shopfronts in Emporium Melbourne

processes from Stalactites to the store and

create a commercial kitchen space as well as [have] Hella Good at the front.”

Stalactites Group is currently working with

sides. The Fitzroy venue will be the first to

Grants employees. Made Establishment

also covers dips, snack packs, salads and launch in mid-2020, with the Emporium Melbourne store slated to open its doors

Made Establishment to recruit former Jimmy employed approximately 400 workers. “I reached out to former Made

later in the year.

employees as I believe many of them

Good in the future, but thought of it as

from the kitchen hands all the way to

“We were looking at expanding Hella

a few years away,” says Papasavas. “The

sites already [had] an established kitchen and back of house, which is a significant expense when starting a new venue.”

In terms of competition, Papasavas says

it’s not an issue. “Emporium won’t directly

of Stalactites and is uncomplicated,

being that it is inside a centre and has a

8 | Hospitality

we are able to move some of our preparation

five souvlaki options and a menu that

Papasavas, managing director of Hella

Good. “Hella Good maintains the values

captive market. Fitzroy is a great space as

compete with our other stores in the city

are dedicated hospitality professionals managerial staff,” says Papasavas. “The

skills and experience they have is a great fit for our group. I have received quite a

few resumes and have employed ex-Jimmy Grants staff for Hella Good and Stalactites. We are continuing to interview and will

hopefully recruit more over the next two

months in time for our store openings.” ■

BACK ROW: • Amy Hamilton - Liberté, WA • Emma McCaskill - SA • Nick Holloway - Nu Nu, QLD • Matt Stone - Oakridge, VIC

• Damien Pignolet - Industry Legend, NSW • Troy Crisante - Quay, NSW • Jo Barrett - Oakridge, VIC • Louis Tikaram - E.P. & L.P., Los Angeles, USA

FRONT ROW:

It promises to be a very happy, prosperous and extremely delicious “YEAR of the PIG” for these talented PorkStars. Pork allows chefs to explore and indulge their imaginations like no other meat. Be a PorkStar. And get some Pork on your menu.

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Underground Spirits launch native gin Canberra-based distillery Underground Spirits have partnered with the Australian National Botanic Gardens to create Ad Crescendum native gin. The gin features foraged native botanicals from the gardens including fingerlime, banksia, rainforest aniseed and yam daisy. Available to purchase online and from select retailers in Canberra. 700ml, 40 per cent ABV. undergroundspirits.com.au

Michelin star chef pops up at Bathers’ Pavilion Simon Rogan will bring his UK restaurant L’Enclume to Australia for the first time. Rogan and his team will take over Bathers’ Pavilion for six weeks from 15 July to 30 August to replicate the restaurant’s multi-course tasting menu alongside Bathers’ head chef Cameron Johnston. “Guests can expect a menu of some of our favourite dishes from L’Enclume, but with a few seasonal tweaks here and there according to the ingredients we have available to us,” says Rogan. Bookings are now open for lunch and dinner, with the set menu priced at $350. batherspavilion.com

Gram Café & Pancakes opens in Sydney Japan’s cult soufflé pancakes are now available in Australia for the first time. Gram Café & Pancakes has opened in Chatswood’s Interchange precinct, offering customers a taste of their iconic ‘premium pancake’ stacks that are made with ingredients flown in direct from Japan. The egg white-heavy pancakes have a soft, fluffy consistency and are steamed under metal domes before serving. A range of beverages from matcha smoothies and iced teas are also on offer along with regular pancakes and savoury and sweet dishes.

10 | Hospitality

NEWS // Entrée

New Feast

Toby’s Estate launches single-serve coffee

Greg and Lucy Malouf

market in a bid to help alleviate the sector’s patchy reputation.

Hardie Grant

The single-service bags are available in two varieties — The Next

$40

Frontier and Forbidden Planet — and are sold in boxes of 10. The

New Feast is the latest book from Michelin star chef Greg Malouf

biodegradable bags are individually packed in renewable and

and food writer Lucy Malouf. It’s one of eight books the Maloufs have

compostable materials and nitro sealed to ensure freshness. $25 per

written on the topics of food and travel, but this one is all about

box. tobysestate.com.au

Australian coffee brand Toby’s Estate has entered the instant coffee

Middle Eastern home-style cuisine that just happens to be vegetarian. Recipes are designed to be mixed and matched and take influence from countries including Spain, Turkey, North Africa and Syria. Readers can try their hand at 130 options from eggplant pilaf with yoghurt and zhoug to spicy red hummus. hardiegrant.com

Adam Wolfers debuts menu for Gerard’s Bar Adam Wolfers has launched his first menu for Brisbane’s Gerard’s Bar.

Aria’s new bar menu Matt Moran’s fine diner Aria has introduced a new bar menu for guests to drop in for a snack and a drink. Executive chef Joel Bickford has designed the new dishes with highlights including crab sandwiches, whipped cod roe and caviar with a charcoal cracker and a Wagyu toastie. “The dishes … are a little more casual than what we’ve done

Wolfers is the executive chef of the award-winning Gerard’s Bistro and has been working on the bar menu for the sibling venue for the past nine months. Diners can get their hands on Middle Easternanchored mezze and small plates with highlights including chickpea miso hummus, Wagyu basturma and swordfish falafel. gerardsbar.com.au Photography by Declan Roache

in the past, but still use the same great produce and techniques our kitchen is known for,” says Bickford. ariasydney.com.au Photography by Steven Woodburn April 2020 | 11

Source of selenium, potassium and iron

PRODUCE // Bush tomato

Picked by hand when they are reddish–brown in colour and wrinkled in appearance

Difficult crop to commercialise due to the high cost of production and inconsistent yields of seed-raised plants

Savoury caramelised aroma of carob

Bush tomato

with cereal notes

Fruit grows between 10–15mm in size

Fruit is dried before harvest

Demand is on the rise for the native fruit, which packs a serious flavour punch. ILLUSTRATIONS Elena Fombertaux

Origins

as this has proven to promote

through to ripe fruit. It is

Native to central Australia, the

plant growth and stimulate

therefore more efficient to

can be eaten fresh, bush tomato

bush tomato is a small desert

fruit production. The plant also

harvest late in the season when

is typically used in dried form. It

shrub found naturally in the

appears to have a reasonable

the fruit is more uniformly ripe

has a distinctive raisin/caramel

Central Desert region of Australia

tolerance to saline water.

when it is either dried or at least

introduction with a strong spicy

yellow in colour and ideally when

aftertaste, making it ideal for

it reaches a rich ochre brown.

chutneys, curries, salsas and as a

— namely Western Australia, the

While the mature yellow fruit

Northern Territory and northern

Production

South Australia. Bush tomato is

Production is highly erratic from

commonly known as desert raisin

year to year, with good crops

hand, and mostly by Aboriginal

and kutjera. Aboriginal names

generally reported every five to

women. The quality of their fruit

bread mixes, herb blends,

vary depending on language

eight years with minor harvests

has been observed to be higher

pasta, relishes, dressings,

group, but include akatyerr,

in between.

than that from mechanised harvest

sauces and dukkah.

akatjurra, katyerr, kampurarrpa and yakajirri.

Demand has increased consistently in recent years

Wild harvest is largely done by

and non-Aboriginal pickers. Mechanical harvesting is more

crust on meat. Ground, it can be found in

A major strength of the bush tomato is its unique and

and now significantly outstrips

common on commercialised

intense flavour, which retains its

Growth requirements

supply. It is estimated 8-10

plantations, but can impact fruit

integrity in many applications

Bush tomato is naturally suited

tonnes of bush tomato are

quality. Mechanical harvesting

and in relatively small ratios

to low-rainfall areas with lighter,

traded each year, although

can also damage the fruit which

to total ingredient mass. This

well-drained soils. For commercial

there have been reports of 15-20

can be a problem, particularly if

characteristic is a double-

plantings, the soil should be

tonnes in high-yield years.

the crop needs to be transported.

edged sword: it is an attractive

drainage, especially in heavier

Harvest

flavour at a relatively economical

soils and cooler environments.

The fruit is primarily sourced via

Flavour profile and culinary uses

It is susceptible to frost, so

wild harvest, which accounts for

Bush tomato is a globular fruit that

quantities are currently required

is best grown as a perennial in

up to 80 per cent of production

grows to 10-15 millimetres in size

by the food industry.

warm, dry, frost-free or low frost-

in good years.

and turns from green to yellow as

ripped and mounded to aid

risk locations. Irrigation is recommended if natural rainfall is not adequate, 12 | Hospitality

ingredient providing a distinctive

In summer, individual plants

use and cost, but relatively small

Information courtesy of The Rural

it ripens. It is usually sun dried on

Industries Research & Development

often carry all stages of fruit

the bush before harvesting when it

Corporation and Australian Native

development from flowering

takes on a reddish colour.

Food Industry Limited. ■

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SEAFOOD // Sashimi

Sashimi

â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the art of food Great sashimi is all about simple, fresh seafood treated with care from selection to serving. WORDS John Susman PHOTOGRAPHY Ali Novis/Clean Seas YOU MIGHT THINK seeking the simplest

experienced chef knows when to sear,

venue where a chef truly understands the

the flavour and texture from a single to a

of charters is not that hard, but finding a flavour and texture of seafood is harder than you might imagine.

The art of truly great sashimi requires

artists of a rare and understated skill, it requires artisans who are intimate with

every element of the catching, handling

and preparing of seafood which performs best when served raw.

Frankly, some seafood is best served raw, but not necessarily ALL seafood. This is

reflected in the art of sashimi, where the 14 | Hospitality

But in a sector where still over 50 per cent

sous or cure just enough to transform

of the supply is wild harvest, I suggest it is

three-dimensional experience.

culinary intellect and palate memory.

The key lies in the selection, preparation

seafood which demands the highest level of

and seasoning, according to the need of

It is not only the selection and

where understanding the texture and

interesting protein to work with, but the

the flesh. Sashimi seafood truly is a cuisine base flavour of the protein stands above everything else.

My butcher mates in terrestrial proteins

may say the same thing â&#x20AC;&#x201D; that a grass-

handling that makes seafood such an

accompaniments and preparations needed to best showcase flavour that makes

seafood so unique when served raw.

Perhaps the science behind the flavour of

or grain-fed animal demands different

seafood is worthy of some consideration.

require vastly separate preparation.

its environment. Seawater ranges from

handling or that a chook and a squab

The flavour of saltwater fish is a result of

SEAFOOD // Sashimi

It is not only the selection and handling that makes seafood such an interesting protein to work with, but the accompaniments and preparations needed to best showcase flavour. 3−3.5 per cent salinity. As American

it is more a skill in the art of matching

delivering a pungent burst used in Japanese

need to keep the total level of dissolved

unique character in the world of seafood

appreciate the fine flavours of fresh seafood.

author Harold McGee points out, animals minerals in their cells to around 1 per

cent. Sea fish offset the saltiness of their environment by filling their cells with

other compounds, namely amino acids

and amines, which have their own taste and flavour implications.

Glycine, an amino acid, lends sweetness

whereas the glutamic acid present in

shellfish, tuna and sardines is ‘savoury

and mouth filling’. Many finfish, however, offset the saltwater flowing through their bodies with the relatively flavourless

amine Trimethylamine N-oxide which

flavour and texture that makes them a

preparation. There are some terrific lessons to be learned from the sushi chef and the condiments on his counter.

Wasabi and horseradish are close

brothers. Their pungent, metallic, almost radish-like characteristics provide the

to use in Japanese etiquette) might transfer the flavour of one fish to another.

commitment a sommelier might consider

of tequila, wasabi or horseradish delivers clarity of flavour when applied discreetly to the flesh of oily or white fish.

Soy or shoyu is an invaluable seasoning

the umami characteristics of seafood.

16 | Hospitality

the fingers (which are perfectly acceptable

in the way that biting a lime after a shot

and ‘delicate’.

of the science of flavour in seafood, but

sashimi (and sushi) with chopsticks because

The sushi master considers the flavour

sequence of flavour-focusing shocks, much

standard which is fundamental in

The sushi master is possibly the best student

For the same reason, purists prefer to eat

freshness of focus on your tongue. A

is why they are characterised by sleep-

inducing descriptors like ‘mild’, ‘sweet’

cuisine to freshen the palate, ensuring you

delivering the explosion of kakushi aji or Ginger is one of the most universal

condiments in sashimi preparations with

its sharp almost citrus-like characteristics,

and texture of seafood with a level of

for each wine and their relevance to the wine list.

Start tasting, investigating and recording

what you taste when you try seafood and

see if you can create a level of appreciation for the myriad flavours and texture in seafood you never knew were there.

Go ahead, think hard and cerebrally

about every piece of seafood you try — it makes a world of difference. ■

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BEST PRACTICE // Social media

TikTok

Is the platform any use to food and drink brands? Leading content agency Buffet explores the short, fast and loud new world that is TikTok. WORDS Sarah Frish for Buffet TIKTOK IS ONE of the fastest-growing social

to be shared and remixed. At the moment,

still reading this?), favouring micro-content

media platforms in the world. Clocking over 1

there’s not much room for polished

i.e. small bites of captivating video that tells

billion downloads since its launch in 2017 and

paid content, with users holding a strict

a story or communicates a message.

more than 500 million active users worldwide,

preference for non-sponsored, un-staged

it signals a new age of content consumption

and original videos.

— one capitalising on a repetitive, highly

There’s no doubt the platform will move

Be alert, not alarmed The platform’s ad offerings — from native

engaging micro format to keep users glued

towards a pay-to-play model as Facebook

video ads to biddable ads and interest-

to their screens.

and Instagram have, but in the meantime, it

based target — are only available to select

presents an interesting challenge for brands.

agencies as part of a beta test. That means

allows users to create and share micro videos

How do you engage an audience in just 15

a wealth of potential for paid brand building

between 15 and 60 seconds long. Its interface

seconds? How can you create an authentic

later down the line.

allows content to be uploaded with ease, and

brand experience without overtly sales-

has the ability to record on the spot using a

driven messaging?

TikTok is a Chinese smartphone app that

self-timer or in segments in portrait orientation.

TikTok defies definition. It’s moving so quickly, growing so exponentially that even writing this feels out-of-date. We’re in an

Experiment with editing

age of ‘fake news’ fatigue with attention

music, filters and other features. In 2018, 66

TikTok offers a suite of editing tools allowing

spans that make the singularity look extreme.

per cent of TikTok’s half-billion users were

for chopping, changing and remixing

TikTok is primed for these conditions, taking

under the age of 30; in the US, more than half

recorded content, allowing for looping

advantage of our 15-second attention spans

are between 16 and 24 years old according to

videos, short clips and Boomerang-style

as well as new tech developments that allow

Mediakix. At this stage, the Australian market

imagery. To create engaging content on this

for the capturing and editing of higher-

is relatively untapped, but it’s assumed similar

platform, play with the editing functions to

quality video content by every person with

trends apply.

cut clips into segments and rearrange them

a smartphone.

Once recorded, clips can be remixed with

Videos are displayed on an ever-rotating

in humorous ways to keep users watching.

newsfeed divided into a ‘discover’ feed, with

Brands should use the platform as an avenue for creation and dispersion,

a list of trending hashtags, and a ‘for you’

Method to the madness

targeting a younger demographic with

feed, curated from the people you follow.

TikTok videos have a largely formulaic

binge-worthy content. Food itself has

Food-centric content ranges between

structure with a plot twist occurring around

incredible viral potential. If it feels right for

satirical recipe videos and imperfect kitchen

the seven-second mark. According to some

your business, consider creating content

scenes where novelty factor is favoured

analysts, this captivates viewers and keeps

that celebrates novelty, jumps on the

over finesse. Users can follow each other,

them looping the video. More views means

humour bandwagon or portrays a very real

like and comment on videos and send direct

higher engagement and priority on the feed.

or amusing part of life. ■

messages. At this stage, the app is free with only a scattering of ad content. In a content-driven world, TikTok allows each user to generate video clips designed 18 | Hospitality

Move towards micro-content

This story originally appeared

TikTok pays dues to the rumours about the

on buffet.digital.

shift in our collective attention spans (are you

COLUMN // Dealing with Coronavirus

Dealing with COVID -19 The impacts of Coronavirus are devastating restaurants — but Ho Jiak’s Junda Khoo is forging ahead. WORDS Junda Khoo WE CHOSE NOT to close down for a

it hasn’t changed the fact Chinatown is still

changing up our specials and putting on

lot more than money. I would lose my loyal

and we’re in Chinatown, so they think it’s the

make money, but we’re giving the people

temporary period because we would lose a customers who come in every week, and

more importantly, I would lose my team.

Our sales went down by 40 per cent after

the news of the Coronavirus came out and there was also a warning for Legionnaires disease in Haymarket, so it was a double

hit. It might have affected us by 40 per cent, but I’m guessing people who don’t have the brand we have would be impacted even

more. A lot of them have chosen to close for a period or even for good.

I’m really grateful and thankful for my

dead. People associate the virus with China worst place to be; the whole area is quiet.

People have been treated and recovered

from the virus, but fear is something none

It’s not about making money right now; it’s about helping the fishermen so the product can be moved and people will order more.

chefs and workers who understand what

of us can control. I want to put my foot

to take a break and not work for a week or

this at all. It doesn’t matter what race you

I’m going through. Some of them agreed

two. We’re spreading shifts out, so rather

than 38 hours, people are doing 20 hours

down and say racism doesn’t play a part in are — if you’re afraid, you’re afraid.

dishes that are labour intensive and don’t what they want. We’re charging $100/kg

for crabs which were $180/kg before. It’s not about making money right now; it’s

about helping the fishermen so the product can be moved and people will order more. I own the restaurant myself, so it’s

important for owners to just survive right now. There’s nothing we can do about it and it’s going to take time, but we have to do our best to manage the costs and

manage staffing so we don’t lose too much money. We try to keep the losses to a

minimum and break even to get through this period.

Sales have picked up by 10 per cent

after all the media coverage, but we’re still

a week instead. I’ve lost a few workers

The export industry has definitely been

blame them.

go out every day. We can’t get marron or

out instead of choosing to stay at home.

we have to order in advance.

in Chinatown to bring things back to

who have taken jobs elsewhere, but I don’t

Although the media has helped get people to come out and eat at restaurants again,

affected and fishermen are choosing not to lobsters as regularly as we did before, so To get customers in, we’ve been

down 30 per cent.

I just want to encourage people to come

We need more pedestrians and traffic normal again. ■

April 2020 | 19

DRINKS // Martinis

Anatomy of the

martini One of the cocktail canon’s heroes, martinis are as customisable as they are ubiquitous. WORDS Madeline Woolway

DRY, DIRTY, PERFECT. With aromatic

“When the scope of gins and vermouth

bitters or without. Add an olive garnish or

are so vast, the person behind the bar likely

the same — a highly recognisable drink. But

to go together,” says Casben. “You’ll have to

lemon twist. In spite of the tweaks, it’s all

when it comes down to it, there’s only one martini: it’s gin and dry vermouth, stirred. While there’s only one martini, the

journey is infinitely customisable in an era where the number of gins and vermouths

has a better idea of how everything is going rely on the bartender to tell you how gins that are completely different are going to stack up in what most people think is the same drink.”

the vermouth in proportion. Whether the chosen gin is a traditional London style, one that’s heavy on Australian natives

or more floral than citrusy, the chosen

vermouth can play any number of roles:

it might support, highlight or contrast the gin’s profile, it might give the drink more

body or it might make it seem drier. These complexities mean experimenting isn’t a

has exploded.

To begin with, not all gins are made for

really light vermouth, it's going to be a

gins are very funky,” says Agostino Perrone,

implications will be if you change an

London. Some gins may taste nice on their

says Casben. “So, what’s happening if

“If you have a high proof gin with a

completely different drink to a standard

proof drink with a richer vermouth; and we haven’t even talked about the proportions

yet,” says Charles Casben, owner−operator of Moya’s Juniper Lounge, a gin bar in Sydney’s Redfern.

The plethora of choices that can be

made within the constraints of a relatively simple drink is what makes martinis a true bartenders’ drink. “It leaves a

martinis. “Nowadays, the profile of some head mixologist at The Connaught in

own, but will lose their X-factor when

diluted. Others will work with tonic, but clash with vermouth. “You need to find

your style of gin,” says Perrone. “Based on

that, the vermouth element is key. With the wrong match, even though vermouth is the

smaller quantity, you can ruin the cocktail.” The answer is to experiment; to focus

matter of messing around.

“Trying to understand what the

ingredient is fundamentally important,” you change the type of gin? What are you

changing? The alcohol content? If you put more vermouth in, is that changing the

palate weight of the drink or the herbal

nature? If you use a really herbaceous gin

and a really light vermouth, are you going to end up with a similar drink if you used

a really herbaceous vermouth and a really

lot more reliance on the education of

on finding out why some combinations

mixologists to know what combination

vermouth is equally important, it’s

Thankfully, the technique is surprisingly

not surprising given it usually outweighs

Bond franchise has confused the matter to

the bartender,” says Casben. It’s up to

of gin and vermouth will work in what proportion and with what garnish. 20 | Hospitality

work and others don’t. Although the

common to start with the gin — that’s

light gin?”

simple in comparison. While the James

how the ingredients should be combined.

“When you shake a martini, you add aeration,”

says Perrone. It results in a much lighter texture

aromatics are exposed. As the drink sits, the alcohol

chunk of ice, the ingredients are blended gently. When the same drink is shaken, they are forced together, explains Perrone. “The way you

combine the flavour is different,” he says. “With

control] because you can’t see it,” he says. “Shaking is quite a violent process.”

Stirring also provides perks for busy bars. “The

truth is, you can half stir a drink and let it sit for a while and then finish it off,” says Casben.

Although ice doesn’t make it into the glass for

martinis the way it does for other classics such as the old fashioned, it’s still important to use highquality ice. “Good-quality ice is needed for the

perfect balance between dilution, temperature

of gin

and dry vermouth

to vermouth,

stirred with a dash

with the

of bitters and an

IBA calling

olive garnish or

for 6 parts

lemon twist.

to 1.

A dirty martini

Both sweet and

adds a

dry vermouth, in

dash of

equal parts,

olive brine.

are used in a

a really sharp, chilled, refreshing drink that sparks

your appetite,” says Casben. “But you’ll lose a lot of those subtleties that come from sipping a martini.”

Then there’s the act of drinking itself. “One of the

you have to be graceful,” says Casben.

dilution. “When you shake, you don’t [have

the ratio

ingredients. “If you keep it muted on ice, you’ll get

shaken martini can be easier to drink [because] Casben says stirring offers more control over

martini is 2:1

warms up and enhances the characteristics of the

really lovely things about the martini glass is that it

there’s more dilution, so it feels lighter.”

London dry gin

to the iconic martini glass. With its broad brim,

stirring, you will end up with a very creamy,

silky texture. The flavour hugs your palate. But a

A dry

There are at least two good reasons to serve

a completely different palate experience when When any drink is stirred with a high-grade

martini ups

and stay for longer.”

straight up rather than on ice. Both are related

gin and vermouth are used in the same quantity.

The most

texture; it allows the flavour to stick to the palate

and a fresher taste, but shaking also means

more dilution. Shaken versus stirred will create

recognisable

and texture,” says Perrone. “Martinis need an oily

forces you to be elegant with your consumption — And, in the end, what’s a martini if not an

experience? ■

“Martinis need an oily texture; it allows the flavour to stick to the palate and stay for longer.” – Agostino Perrone

perfect martini.

April 2020 | 21

DRINKS // Martinis

some extent, there’s a solid consensus around

PROFILE // Lillia McCabe

Lillia McCabe

Lillia McCabe always wanted to be a chef — until she didn’t. Words Madeline Woolway

WE OFTEN HEAR stories of young chefs destined for the kitchen from childhood,

entering the industry with one goal in mind: run a restaurant, one that’s preferably your own. It was no different for Lillia McCabe. Given her family pedigree — the chef

and sommelier’s mother, grandfather and uncle all worked in hospitality — it’s not

surprising she never really considered doing anything else.

McCabe formally started working in

kitchens when she left school at the age of 15. It was during a four-year stint at The

Wharf Restaurant (a now shuttered one-hat venue on Sydney’s Jones Bay Wharf run by

Tim Pak Poy and Aaron Ross) that she truly

got her start and learned far more than basic technical skills. “I learned how to be tough

and how to hold my own,” says McCabe. “I learned everyday kitchen banter.”

Now more than 10 years on, and with

a different mindset and newly defined

goals, McCabe is grateful for her years at The Wharf. Why? Mentors. Pak Poy and

Ross created a supportive kitchen and took McCabe under their wings.

McCabe went from their tutelage to join

the team at Sydney institution Claude’s (closed 2013) and then ACME (closed

2019), where she found another great

mentor in chef Mitch Orr (now head chef at CicciaBella).

“Aaron and Mitch are still my mentors to

this day,” says McCabe. “They understand who I am and what I need. [Good

mentors] teach life skills, they’re there for you as a person and they develop you as chef and hospitality worker.”

While McCabe has been lucky to

find mentors throughout her career, it

hasn’t always been a smooth ride. There have been venues that didn’t provide a conducive environment. “You miss

something, and that’s disappointing,” 22 | Hospitality

PROFILE // Lillia McCabe

says McCabe of kitchens that lacked role

models. “You’re working for someone else, I understand that, but you’re also working on yourself and trying to get your career

to a certain spot. As a young chef, it’s not

easy to do by yourself so you need to look up to people.”

Eventually, the mentally and physically

grueling nature of kitchens left her

believing there was a time limit on her career as a chef.

“About a year and a half ago, I realised I

didn’t want to spend all my time in kitchens,”

Bopha

says McCabe.

The change in heart came after a move

to Singapore that didn’t pan out. “It wasn’t a good experience overall,” says McCabe.

“[But] it was a really great learning curve.

I’m glad I did it because I learned so much

about myself, what I want to do and what I don’t want to do.”

Ultimately still in love with the industry,

McCabe is now honing in on diversifying

“I’m trying to figure out whether to stay in the industry at the moment. I think there’s a time limit, especially as a chef.” – Lillia McCabe

her skillset, which revolves around moving

it’s like dealing with customers. I regret

is one of her key pieces of advice. “Find a

Starting her transition in Singapore, before

would do some time in each section.

with,” she says.

into front of house and wine service.

heading back to Sydney for Merivale’s

Kingdom of Rice pop-up in early 2019,

some things I said. I wish FOH and kitchen They’re both grueling.”

It’s been a boon for personal

McCabe is now on the way to becoming an

development, too. “I feel like I stopped

Maurice Terzini. Along with Terzini, whose

partially my fault, but it’s nice to take a

all-rounder under the guidance of veteran attention to detail and care McCabe finds inspiring, Icebergs Dining Room and Bar head sommelier Gabrielle Webster has helped McCabe change directions.

The switch has paid off. McCabe has

relished the opportunity to develop a fresh perspective, despite going back to square

learning a bit,” McCabe says. “That’s

step back and be an ‘apprentice’ again. I

get to work with amazing lists at Icebergs and we have clientele who want to spend

“If things aren’t working, find another

kitchen,” McCabe suggests. “Don’t just work at the next best restaurant; find something that really suits you.”

It shouldn’t be up to hospitality workers

Gabrielle is a legend.”

great people move around because they

Mentors can be found out of the

opinion on a lot of things and changed

and Max Gurtler as significant sources

front of house. Now I understand what

with finding the right venues and roles.

to keep moving until they find the right

position to be in. I learn everyday —

workplace, too. McCabe lists friends

my attitude,” she says. “I used to bark at

Finding the right people also helps

on opening great bottles. It’s a great

one. “Understanding both the kitchen and front of house [FOH] has changed my

group of people you want to be involved

venue, though. “My frustration is seeing aren’t being treated right,” says McCabe. The fix is actually simple: give people

including sommeliers Ambrose Chiang

a good time and a chance to contribute

of support and encouragement. In fact,

having fun and have a say, you’ll keep

creating a circle of friends in the industry

meaningfully to the business. “If they’re them,” argues McCabe.

April 2020 | 23

Kingdom of Rice

PROFILE // Lillia McCabe

McCabe left school early and eschewed a

formal apprenticeship because she prefers hands-on learning to sitting still, not

because she thinks hospitality should be all fun and games.

“I really like discipline and structure,

and I found that in restaurants that were

rigid and technique-driven,” she says. “It’s hard at points, all kitchens are, but as a

person, I really need discipline. If I don’t have it, I get lost. I’m a naughty kid if I don’t have it.”

Instead, McCabe is not willing to put

up with ego-driven personalities and

unforgiving hours: “The aggression needs to change and the hours people are working need to change.”

Until such changes occur, McCabe won’t

be rushing back to kitchen life. In the

meantime, she’s satisfied with wine service

and finding time to cook on the side. In fact, she’s delving back into the pop-up world off

“Understanding both the

concept Kingdom of Rice where she worked

kitchen and front of house has

the back of her time at Merivale’s Cambodian alongside Orr and Sophia Thatcher. “It was

really fun,” says McCabe. “I’m really looking forward to doing it again.”

By “by doing it again”, McCabe means

running pop-ups in collaboration with

Thatcher, this time under the banner of

Bopha. The first iteration, held at Newtown venue Cafe Paci, was a hit, selling out well ahead of the event. “We were shocked at

changed my opinion on a lot of things and changed my attitude … Now I understand what it’s like dealing with customers.” – Lillia McCabe

the response,” says McCabe. “We thought

As much as she’s riding the pop-up wave,

there was a waitlist. Hopefully it will be the

cheffing. In part, the decision to stay in

we’d do 30-40 covers, but we did 120 and first of a few.”

McCabe is excited by the chance to cook

in an environment of her own creation.

“I love cooking and I miss it,” she reveals. “But I don’t want to be in kitchens

it’s not enough to will McCabe back into

front of house is driven by pragmatism. “I think one of the reasons I got into wine is because I don’t want to be stuck with one skill,” says McCabe.

It’s sound reasoning to any 21st

anymore. It is a really great outlet for me

century professional — we’re living in

my fun without being in it every day.”

contemplating moving on from hospitality

to have my hand [in the kitchen] and have No egos popping up alongside the

restaurant helps, too. “Khmer culture is

really important to Sophia,” says McCabe on how the Kingdom of Rice concept

came about. “She wanted to do something

an era of hedged bets — but McCabe is

24 | Hospitality

followed by ‘failure’. On the other, it’s a

purely personal decision. “I don’t want that for me,” she says. “I have a bad taste in my mouth about restaurants. The industry has

broken me a few times — it takes a massive toll on your mental and physical health.” With so much behind her at such

a young age, the chef/sommelier’s

experience is both a cautionary tale

and proof there’s light at the end of the

tunnel. Her advice to those coming up the ranks? If things take a turn for the worse, chill out and take a step back. “What I

was doing wasn’t working out for me, but I still loved the industry so much,” says

McCabe. “I changed my pathway ... and

it’s changed the way I feel. I’ve started to have fun again.”

“I felt I was becoming someone I didn’t

time limit, especially as a chef.”

When she started out, the goal was

charge,” says McCabe. “I think that’s what

utilise each other’s skills.”

through the ups and downs of success

moment,” says McCabe. “I think there’s a

We work well together. She helps with

the kitchen and I jump on the floor. We

hand, she’s seen too many people go

Reenergised by her time in wine service,

whether to stay in the industry at the

to own her own venue, but things have

prep and I’ll curate drinks; she jumps in

McCabe to open her own venue. On one

altogether. “I’m trying to figure out

Cambodian because there isn’t much in

Sydney, so it’s her menu as much as mine.

Now, it would take a lot to convince

changed. “It’s the ultimate goal to be in

all young chefs want. That’s the ego thing; every chef wants to be in charge and create their own thing.”

McCabe is ready to reinvest in the industry. like,” she says. “I needed to change my

perspective and get my shit together so I

didn’t rub off on people. Maybe one day I’ll feel confident enough to run a kitchen, but I need to improve myself as a leader.” Keeping people in the industry is

imperative, so we can only hope others take McCabe’s lead. ■

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Making it happen

Lord of the Fries' Original burger

FEATURE // Vegan

Mooving on Plant-based meat analogues seem to have come out of nowhere, but they’re here to stay. WORDS Madeline Woolway

THIS COUNTRY HAS a reputation: we’re a nation

On the burger front, Lord of the Fries has six

of meat-eaters. While the statement still holds true,

variations and all but one is filled with a meat

A 2019 Food Frontier

According to data released by Roy Morgan in 2019,

when their kitchens started rolling out Beyond Meat

Foods report found

the percentage is creeping in the opposite direction. 2.5 million people in Australia have an all or almost all vegetarian diet. That’s 12.1 per cent of the

population. Compared to 11.2 per cent in 2016 and 9.7 per cent in 2012, it’s a significant boost to the number of plant-eaters.

Unsurprisingly, plant-based dining is making its mark

analogue. Venues saw an unmistakable rise in sales

burgers in 2018. “We were the first with Beyond [in Australia] and we were told no one else sells more

Beyond outside of America than us,” says co-founder Mark Koronczyk. “When we had exclusivity, there was a real spike in business.”

The brand is hoping for the same effect when it

on all sectors of the industry from cafés to fine diners.

introduces the Impossible Foods burger — also an

their tune. It’s a trend facilitated by demand and an

products,” says Koronczyk. “To offer them both in

Even quick-service restaurants and pubs are changing increase in availability of meat analogues (think beeflike patties, faux chick’n nuggets and phish).

Hospitality talks to fast-casual vegan pioneers

Lord of the Fries (LOTF) and leading pub group

Australian Venue Co. (AVC) about their strategy for capitalising on the growing market.

Demand for plant-based meat analogues is soaring.

After launching as a fries-focused food van in 2004, Melbourne brand Lord of the Fries has seen rapid

growth in recent years. The company has expanded across Australia and into New Zealand, going from one store to 30 in 16 years. 26 | Hospitality

exclusive — this winter. “They’re two very different

and Life Health

60% of Australians have tried or are interested in trying plant-based meat analogues.

one place is really cool.”

A few years ago, it’s a position most chefs and

Emerging beef

Christian Abbott, executive chef of the Middle

currently account

business owners wouldn’t have dreamed of. For Park Hotel in Melbourne, demand is no longer the

main problem. The Albert Park venue was the first

Australian Venue Co. kitchen to start serving Beyond Meat burgers and the decision is paying off.

“It’s been quite an even split against normal

burgers,” says Abbott. “I was genuinely shocked

because the Middle Park typically does steaks and hanging kebabs.”

substitutes for less than

of Australia’s meat market (Food Frontier).

What I love most about the CHEF range is that they can be added to any dish, at any point for epic flavour

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FEATURE // Vegan

“If people knew our cost of goods compared to a chain like McDonald’s or Hungry Jacks, I think they’d be shocked.” – Mark Koronczyk Abbott’s main concern now is raising awareness.

“It’s more of a case of education, not customer

demand,” he says. “I need to educate clientele in how to make the planet more sustainable — that’s the

biggest challenge for me. Obviously, we’ve got a base clientele who will come in for just [the plant-based

burgers]. We want to try to engage with clientele who would normally order a [meat] burger.”

While the burgers are flying out the door in

Melbourne, Abbott’s Sydney-based colleague Daniel

Vegan options at Middle Park

Demand fuels supply and the popularity of

plant-based meat analogues is leading to better availability and new products. “The market is

growing,” says Koronczyk. “We have more and more people in Australia pitching food to us. We used to have to source it ourselves from overseas.”

Of the pitches he receives, Koronczyk says it’s

Corbett has experienced a slower uptake. “They

a 50/50 split between meat analogues and other

moment,” Corbett says.

to the vegan market, meat analogues, especially

seem to be selling a lot more than Sydney at the The new range of plant-based burgers at AVC’s

Sydney venues The Winery, The Rook, Beer Deluxe, Beer Deluxe Terminal 2 and Manly Wine have still

vegan products. In fact, while they’re relatively new beef imitations, have quickly become one of the

only maybe 5 per cent of our sales on a weekly basis.”

to switching the business to a completely vegan

company’s biggest seller in Sydney, Corbett sees

the value in including them on the menu. Vegans might only make up a small percentage of sales

themselves, but if one out of a group of 10 is plant-

based, there needs to be an option for them. “If they can’t eat, the whole group will walk out the door,” says Corbett.

So why not just offer traditional vegetarian and

offering, cheese was the biggest hurdle. “Our cheese still comes from overseas,” he says. “No one we’ve spoken to can make an American slice that tastes great and is on price point.”

of the Australian market. Think Tank Food

Frontier notes

1/3

of Australian consumers are

before they discovered Brasserie Bread’s vegan

limiting animal-

challenge. Abbott says burger buns proved difficult pumpkin bun.

For Corbett, the decision to go full vegan or settle

a fast food burger,” says Corbett. “It’s for the people

“Some of our venues have [gone full vegan] and

28 | Hospitality

9.2%

The AVC chefs came up against the same

for vegetarian also came down to accessibility and

who are trying to be vegan or vegetarian.”

for less than

have been vegan for a long time, but when it came

vegan patties made of quinoa, beans or legumes?

“People really want the same as everyone else, like

share, accounting

Koronczyk and his co-founders, brother Sam

Koronczyk and wife Mandy Walker Koronczyk,

Although the meat analogues aren’t the

the biggest market

easiest products to source.

been a hit. “It’s definitely popular,” says Corbett, who is executive chef at the listed venues. “However, it is

Dairy milk alternatives have

the cost of vegan alternatives for buns and cheese. some have kept it as a veggie replacement,” he

says, adding: “They’re definitely becoming a lot

consciously sourced meat.

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Lord of the Fries' Parma burger

FEATURE // Vegan

“People really want the same as everyone else, like a fast food burger.” – Daniel Corbett more readily available. As the months roll by, we’re

supplier are about $1.85 and [Beyond burgers] are

Even within the category of meat analogues, there

leeway to charge more than meat offerings. “What

mimic the experience of eating a beef burger, other

expensive?’” says Koronczyk. “If people knew our

getting more and more vegan options.”

have been significant leaps. Not only do imitations proteins are now easier to source.

The next step for AVC, says Corbett, is looking into

chicken and fish alternatives. It’s a task Koronczyk is

coming in at $4.90 a patty.”

It doesn’t mean venue operators have much

we get most of the time is, ‘Why is your product so cost of goods compared to a chain like McDonald’s or Hungry Jacks, I think they’d be shocked.”

At Sydney’s AVC, venue margins are made up by

very familiar with. Ultimately, LOTF has decided to

charging a few dollars extra for plant-based meat

make a beef patty,” he says. “There’s also quite a bit of

board with paying more, but the price difference

manufacture many products themselves. “It’s easier to

competition around chicken. Companies that approach us say they are looking at what most people eat.”

It makes sense that a less-popular protein such as

fish is harder to come by. “Fish is expensive,” says

Koronczyk. “There’s no one in Australia doing it as

burgers. So far, Corbett says diners have been on doesn’t totally cover the discrepancy in cost. “If

you’ve got the right product, people will pay,” he says. “But to be honest, we just take the hit on it because it brings customers in.”

In Melbourne, Abbott is still determined to keep

far as I know, so it has to be imported. We’re making

the cost in line with meat. “What I’ve found recently

the price was just prohibitive.”

gluten-free or whatever dietary and they’re being

our own now; we were importing from Canada but There’s an anomaly, though: a locally produced

bacon replacement has proven elusive. “Bacon

is very hard to do,” says Koroncyzk. “We have to import that for the Parma burger.”

is there are a lot of people going plant-based,

charged for it,” says Abbott. “They’re [suppliers] charging more and almost penalising people for

having dietaries. We’re not doing that. We’re giving everyone an opportunity to get it and give it a try.”

Plant-sourced meat analogues account for less than

0.1% of the

$1.7 trillion global market for meat, fish and dairy (New Yorker, 2019).

With so many alternatives available, deciding factors

With so much progress made when it comes to

a couple of things to be honest: taste and cost,”

what’s next?

have become more important. “It comes down to

says Koronczyk. “It has to fit on our menu. And our

plant-based meat alternatives, the question now is Koronczyk thinks the next big debate will be lab-

prices are a lot better than if manufacturers come to

grown meat — something he’s open to considering

scale compared to everyone else.”

it’s only a matter of time until Australia catches up

us. We’ve got 30 stores, so we’re doing it on a large Manufactured plant-based meat analogues from

suppliers such as Beyond Meat are still far more

costly than meat. Corbett says vegan ingredients in

general clock in at a much higher price than animal products. “It’s almost triple,” says Corbett. “So

our wagyu burger patties from a very well-known 30 | Hospitality

despite being a consummate vegan. Corbett thinks to the US — he’s expecting more plant-based fast food chains. For his part, Abbott believes that it’s

up to the hospitality industry to lead people away

from industrial animal agriculture even if it means

sacrificing profits initially: “What’s margin when we’re not going to have a planet?” ■

FEATURE // Judging Jose Lorenzo Morales

Paying it forward Chefs are giving back to the industry by taking part in programs that celebrate the new-generation of talent. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY James Thompson

There are a number of programs hospitality professionals can enter

that provide myriad opportunities, whether it’s meeting like-minded peers, gauging performance in a competitive environment or even attending money-can’t-buy culinary experiences. Appetite for

Excellence, The Ora King Awards and S.Pellegrino’s Young Chef are

just a handful of the programs, and they share a main commonality THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY thrives on pressure, creativity

— access to influential chefs.

You’ll find Peter Gilmore in the kitchens of Quay and Bennelong,

and long hours. But it’s the relationships chefs and foodservice

but you’ll also catch him on the judging panels of Young Chef,

great one. Australia is home to some of the world’s best chefs

has participated in a range of programs over the years as both a

professionals form with each other that make the sector such a who have refined their craft and are now looking at how they can foster up-and-coming talent beyond their own kitchens.

Peter Gilmore and Danielle Alvarez are two culinary figures

who are more than happy to share their knowledge and lend a

helping hand to the young guns rising to the top. The pair talk to Hospitality about their roles as judges and what they take away from their experiences on judging panels.

32 | Hospitality

Appetite for Excellence and the delicious. Produce Awards. Gilmore mentor and a judge, and says it’s all about nurturing the future.

“I get a lot out of putting time into the next generation of young

chefs coming through,” he says. “Any chance you get to put back into the industry — it’s such an important thing to do.” When Merivale’s Danielle Alvarez received a call from

S.Pellegrino asking if she’d like to join the 2019 judging panel,

the Fred’s chef didn’t hesitate to say yes. “I couldn’t pass on the opportunity to see what some of the young talent out there is

FEATURE // Judging

Jose Lorenzo Morales on the making of Analogy “I’ve harnessed five different techniques of rice in the dish that are considered underused in my country. In the Philippines, you dry a type of rice with burnt banana leaves so it smells like coffee. People in the northern area say nobody practices it anymore and it’s considered extinct, so I’m trying to play around with it. I’ve used pork as the main element because you use it for celebratory occasions in the Philippines like birthdays and parties. I think the tournament is an important day — it’s not just about winning, it’s seeing other people and engaging with ideas.”

think those who were most successful made food that was rooted in their cultural heritage using modern techniques they have learned.”

Gilmore says applying and getting through

to the next round was a huge accomplishment

for the semi-finalists, and is one they shouldn’t

brush over. “Any young chef who puts themselves Jose Lorenzo Morales' Anaology

out like that — even if they didn’t rank — gets

so much out of the experience. They meet other capable of,” she says. “I have also been a judge for the delicious. Produce Awards for the past three

years because I am so passionate about using the

“It’s important to be a visible member of the hospitality community and judging at these

best Australian produce. It’s an amazing way to

be exposed to what is out there and to taste many things side by side, which is a rare opportunity.” Both Gilmore and Alvarez were both part of the 2019 judging panel for the Pacific arm of the

competitions helps

Young Chef program and had the opportunity to

me do that.”

Sydney. As was the case for many of the judges,

– Danielle Alvarez

watch the 10 semi-finalists make their dishes in

meeting the young chefs was a first for Alvarez, who says all their dishes were a total surprise.

But what was most memorable was the tenacity of the competitors. “I saw so much passion and

dedication in those young people, and I was quite impressed at how brave they were in putting themselves forward for something like this. I

young chefs and talk about their experiences and

it’s all a big growth thing. Sometimes not winning is more powerful because it makes them re-

examine what they’ve done and can do better.” Gilmore is slated to travel to Milan, Italy, alongside Pacific regional finalist Jose Lorenzo Morales for

the grand finale, which will see Lorenzo Morales compete against 11 other chefs from around

the globe. Gilmore says he’s looking forward to

stepping into the mentor role to support the young chef. “Being a judge is important as you have

to pick a candidate you think can represent the

region, but being a mentor is quite different. You’re there to remain calm and supportive. When you’re a young chef doing this for the first time, there’s a lot of anticipation and pressure, so it’s good to

have an older head in the equation. You can keep them calm and focused and give some words of encouragement — it’s like being a coach.”

April 2020 | 33

Peter Gilmore and Jose Lorenzo Morales at Quay

FEATURE // Judging

“When you judge someone else’s work, it makes you re-evaluate your own in a way that you might not have looked at for a long time.” – Peter Gilmore Danielle Alvarez at the semi-final cook-off

The pair recently spent a day in the

kitchen of Quay, which saw Lorenzo

Morales create his dish from scratch

and present it to Gilmore for review.

Dubbed ‘Analogy’ (roasted lechón pork

and there were flavours I wasn’t familiar

It also helps me build relationships with

those flavours worked together and ate as

admire and can learn from.”

with. What really impressed me was how a whole dish — that’s a skill that’s really

my fellow judges who are always people I Gilmore says he takes any chance to

hard to teach.”

give back to the industry and encourages

rice cracker, latik caramel and tamarind

While taking the time out to become a

has etched his place in history as one of

chef’s Filipino background and showcases

their own kitchens, Gilmore and Alvarez

belly, shrimp bogoong paste, pandan

powder), the dish is influenced by the flavours from the north. Gilmore says Lorenzo Morales’ dish stuck out, and

judge might require a few extra hours in say it’s worth every second.

“I get exposed to things I don’t normally

the decision to award him as the Pacific

see — it could be a product, a producer

agreed his dish was the standout,” says

Australia are capable of,” says Alvarez.

winner was unanimous. “The judges all

the chef. “It was really unusual and very original; there are obviously a lot of

elements from his cultural background 34 | Hospitality

or seeing what the young chefs of

“It’s important to be a visible member of the hospitality community and judging

at these competitions helps me do that.

his peers to do the same. And while he

the most successful and admired chefs in the country, he says judging has always

provided a learning curve and a window to reflect on his own ideas and dishes. “When you judge someone else’s work, it makes

you re-evaluate your own in a way that you might not have looked at for a long time,”

he says. “Any time you are able to creatively help someone, you’re creatively helping yourself as well.” ■

PASSION DRIVES INNOVATION It is passion and the sense of innovation that focused Stoddart to partner with American Range to develop the heavy duty modular cooking range exclusively designed for the Australian market. The American Range lineup, specifically designed from the ground up, is a heavy duty, commercial range of cooking equipment, built for the Australian Commercial Kitchen environment. The sleek, modular design allows for customisation for both front of house or back of house production applications.

FEATURE // Equipment

Equipped for the job A roundup of the latest and greatest industry equipment. THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT can make or break a kitchen, which is why it’s important to keep your finger on the pulse when it comes to fitting your venue out. Here’s a roundup of tried and tested favourites along with some new developments in the kitchen equipment sector.

Fast frying FastFri features an impressive 18-litre deep fryer that can be a replacement fryer or a new specified unit for food outlets who specialise in crispy food products or fried foods such as fish and chips. The unit has an open pan for ease of cleaning and a deep cold zone, which helps with the longevity of the oil. FastFri also features powerful 90MJ multi-jet targeted U burners, which means it cooks more batches of product at a rate of 25kg per hour. With an impressive environmental and economic footprint, it helps to reduce the overall day-to-day running costs and is an excellent purchase for the hip pocket. moffat.com.au

American muscle The American Range 36” burner range with Innovection™ oven is an excellent choice for a hard-working piece of modular kitchen equipment. The unique Innovection™ design creates even heat distribution and speed, making the oven ideal for pastry cooking or as a finishing oven. The six-burner oven

Smarter food safety

range has transformed cooking with the Innovection™

Food safety doesn’t have to be onerous. With MonikaPrime, you can say goodbye to

fan-assisted oven, delivering faster cook times with

manual temperature checks, paper records and checklists and use technology to

even finishing and prompt browning or gratinating.

streamline and automate your food safety processes, from storage to service.

The unit features 303mm open burners with cast

Manual temperature checks can put your entire business at risk. Would you know if

iron trivets that are reversible to accept flat pans

there had been a temperature rise since your last check? If not, you could be serving

or woks. Additionally, American Range oven ranges

food that hasn’t been safely stored. Monika’s live temperature monitoring system

feature a removable oven door, making the tedious

eliminates this risk.

(yet practical) task of cleaning the oven that much

MonikaPrime schedules and records all your food safety and hygiene tasks across your

easier. The American Range 36” burner range with

operation — from cleaning and maintenance to stock rotation and shelf-life checks.

Innovection™ oven is perfectly paired with other

A digital food safety system keeps you audit-ready and better informed to take

commercial equipment from the modular kitchen

action to protect your customers and your stock. Real-time SMS or emails alert you to

range. stoddart.com.au; 1300 791 954

potential issues as they arise, anywhere, anytime. au.monika.com

36 | Hospitality

Essential in a fast-paced kitchen environment.

When quality needs to be maintained, even if dozens of orders are required in quick succession.

moffat.com.au

FEATURE // Equipment

To the point Tormek’s T-2 Pro kitchen knife sharpener helps chefs sharpen knives in 60 seconds. Tormek of Sweden has developed a new knife sharpener designed to meet demand for sharpness and user friendliness. By having on-demand sharpening on-site, venues can save time, money and your knives. The sharpener is quick and easy to set up, features an adjustable edge angle and a diamond wheel optimised for knife sharpening. The system also has a composite wheel for final polishing on the edge, runs silently and has no risk of overheating the steel. The T-2 has a seven-year warranty, is made of high-quality materials and is extremely durable, with an estimated service life of 20–25 years. promac.com.au

Intuitive cooking Rational’s SelfCookingCenter® is made in Germany and is the first cooking system in the world to have real intelligence. Chefs no longer need to set and continuously readjust the temperature, humidity or air speed. Simply select the food to be cooked, specify the desired result and that’s it; the SelfCookingCenter® will take care of the rest. Equipped with five senses, the SelfCookingCenter® senses the ideal cooking cabinet conditions, recognises the size and quantity of food, thinks ahead and knows how a dish is best cooked. The system also learns the habits the chef prefers and communicates with them. At the end of the day, it automatically cleans itself so it’s ready for use the next day. The SelfCookingCenter® is manufactured in Germany by RATIONAL, the inventor and world leader in combi steamer technology. 1800 810 261

Maximise productivity Robot Coupe’s Vegetable Preparation

Feel the heat

Machines (CL50 Ultra pictured) have large

The Trueheat RC Series was designed and engineered by Australians for the kitchens of local

capacity hoppers and simple operation.

restaurants and cafés. The series includes oven ranges, gas cooktops, fryers, pasta cookers,

Created to cut fresh and delicate produce

salamanders, infrared barbecues and infill benches which are all range matched to ensure a

with precision, the machines free up time

stylish finished design. The Trueheat brand was built on the philosophy that all restaurant and

and can be operated by all kitchen staff,

café kitchens deserve culinary muscle at an affordable price.

making your operation more efficient. Users can prepare a range of products for different applications from slicing and grating to julienning, dicing, cutting French fries and even making mash. The CL50 Ultra now comes standard with an Exactitube for slicing small/delicate product such as chillis, spring onions, cherry tomatoes, gherkins, bananas, strawberries and grapes. Robot Coupe can provide training to your team on all facets of the use of vegetable preparation machines including how easy it is to pull apart and clean. (02) 9478 0300 38 | Hospitality

Trueheat offers free start up and commissioning on all units (within 50km of a registered service agent) including checking installation, setting gas supply and adjusting gas settings for each pilot/burner/oven. comcater.com.au

DISCOVER HOW ROBOT COUPE CAN HELP YOU

Learn how to get the most out of your Robot Coupe! EFFICIENT

STRONG & DURABLE

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EASY TO USE & CLEAN

Scan the QR code to view our official YouTube channel with machine demonstrations 02 9478 0300 · enquiries@robotcoupe.com.au · robotcoupe.com.au

VIDEO // Behind the scenes

Icebergs’ scarlet prawn XO koshi risotto An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series.

ICEBERGS DINING ROOM and Bar

Method

head chef Alex Prichard’s recipe

For the risotto base

for scarlet prawn XO koshi risotto is

Using a wide flat pan, heat the

all about the produce — the scarlet

olive oil and gently sauté the

prawns are used throughout, served

onions with the garlic and a

raw as well as used in the stock and

pinch of salt. sauté until soft and

oil, while the Koshihikari rice comes

translucent with no colour.

from the Randall Family’s farm near Griffith, New South Wales.

Add the saffron and the rice and stir over low heat for one minute.

Ingredients For the risotto base 400g Randall Family organic semi brown Koshihikari rice

Add the hot stock and bring to a gentle simmer, cover and cook on gentle flame, just ticking over, for

10 minutes.

100ml extra virgin olive oil

After 10 minutes, the stock should

100g white onion

be absorbed. Spread the rice

1 clove garlic

evenly on a tray and allow to cool.

1 pinch Tasmanian saffron threads 1L prawn stock (or good-quality

To finish, heat a pan with the olive

vegetable stock)

oil. Add garlic, chilli and anchovies

Flake salt

and cook over a medium heat until fragrant. Add in tomato sugo and

For the scarlet prawn crudo

cook till lightly caramelised. Add

6 whole scarlet prawns sliced in

pre-cooked rice, XO sauce and

half (head, shells and tails removed

extra 200ml of stock and heat to a

to be used in the stock)

simmer. Stir regularly to stimulate

30ml Alto extra virgin olive oil

the starch.

4 sprigs lemon verbena or lemon thyme 20ml Alto Chardonnay vinegar Olsson’s macrobiotic salt

To finish the risotto

Stir in cold diced butter in three stages, stirring continuously. The rice will thicken and the butter will emulsify into the sauce. If the rice gets too gluggy, add a bit more stock or water. Season with lemon

200—300ml prawn stock or good-

juice and salt, tasting each time

quality vegetable stock

you add.

Flake salt 100g cold diced butter

To serve, marinate the raw scarlet

5g chopped bird’s eye chilli

prawns in all ingredients. Place

5g chopped peeled garlic

risotto on the plate, add the raw

5g chopped anchovies

marinated scarlet prawns on top and

30g Pomodoro sauce or tomato

let the risotto warm them through.

sugo 10g XO sauce and XO oil Lemon juice

40 | Hospitality

Watch the full video at hospitalitymagazine.com.au

are easy to clean.

Plastic guards protect users from blades.

Thickness can be altered according to ingredient.

Slice cured meats in a matter of seconds.

Machines have auto modes or can be hand-operated for complete control.

Some machines allow users to pre-select number of cuts for efficiency.

Ideal for slicing cured meats such as prosciutto, ham, salami and mortadella.

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April 2020 | 41

EQUIPMENT // Meat slicer

Meat slicer

Stainless-steel blades

5 MINUTES WITH ... // Laurent Rospars

I WAS BORN in Brittany, France, but grew up in

the Loire Valley. My great grandmother was a chef, my grandmother was a very good cook, my mum

is a very good cook and my other grandmother in Brittany was a very good cook.

My uncle used to have a little bakery in a

village in Brittany. He used to make one type of

bread and on Sundays, he used to make one cake; it was a choux with whipped cream — that’s a good memory.

I learned how to cook from a young age. When I

was 10 years old, my mum would leave money on the table for dinner. I would do the shopping and

get a three-course meal ready. I grew up in the wine

industry, too, running around vineyards and bottling wine in the cellar with my grandfather.

I started as an apprentice in a couple of big

restaurants in Paris. There were 20 to 30 blokes

in the kitchen and you had one job. The head chef wouldn’t even know your name after a couple of years. But it was a good experience, technically.

There are rules you need to follow and techniques

you need to practice first. You have to crawl before you walk.

It’s a young person’s game. Being a chef, I had

to get out of the kitchen. I think the transition

from chef to wine professional is easy. Most good

Laurent Rospars The Prince Hotel group sommelier on childhood memories, doing it all and curating a wine list with something for everyone.

chefs start thinking about their wine knowledge, as they should. Hospitality is all about food and wine matching. In this industry, you have to be able to do everything.

At Little Prince Wine, we’re more oriented in

certain grapes, but try to stay a little old school as well because there are still people who look for

a particular type of Shiraz or Pinot or follow the

big brands. There are some very exclusive bottles

you can’t find anywhere else. Some people walk in and want to buy everything; it’s like kids in a lolly shop. Sometimes I’ll open something a bit silly, a bit expensive and there’ll just be five glasses and

that’s it. I’ll post on Instagram saying, “Come and get it”.

There’s a bit of food, too, easy stuff to eat: a

bit of ham, a bit of cheese, some quirky things —

maybe some escargot. It’s simple but high quality, just like my memories of food from childhood. ■ 42 | Hospitality

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Hospitality April 2020

Articles inside

Feature // Vegan

Profile // Lillia McCabe

DRINKS // Martinis

COLUMN // Dealing with Coronavirus

SEAFOOD // Sashimi