Hospitality December 2021 by The Intermedia Group

NO.779 DECEMBER 2021

MEET THE GAMECHANGERS • SUMMER COCKTAILS • 2022 TRENDS

CONTENTS // December

Contents DECEMBER 2021

Regulars 6 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more. 10 // PRODUCE The boysenberry is a unique hybrid of four fruits. 12 // DRINKS Three bartenders on the ultimate summer cocktails.

2 | Hospitality

44 // BEHIND THE SCENES A croque monsieur with Leonards Bar & Bistro. 46 // EQUIPMENT Keep your sparkling bubbly with a winepreservation system. 48 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Monica Luppi from Sydney condiment line Lulu’s Remedy.

Features 20 // 50 GAMECHANGERS Hospitality celebrates 50 individuals who have changed the industry for the better. 34 // 2022 TRENDS What’s going to be big in food and beverage next year.

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EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

HOP TO IT Lunch with friends calls for a banquet of endless hoppers and flavour-packed sambols from Lankan Filling Station. @aristinedob

Raising the bar YOU MIGHT NOTICE something a little

weighing in on what makes the ideal warm-

different about this magazine — and

weather beverage, as well as a look at the

no, it’s not just the fact you’re holding a

trends we’re tipping will be big in 2022.

December issue of Hospitality. It also marks

It’s been another challenging year, but

the launch of a new initiative: Hospitality’s

it looks like we have turned the corner and

50 Gamechangers. The unranked list is a

are heading towards a buzzing festive

compilation of professionals working across

season. Hospitality will be back next year

the industry from chefs to front of house,

with our February issue, but you can catch

sommeliers, producers, authors, restaurateurs

us @hospitalitymagazine for some holiday

and everyone in between.

content.

RAINING BOTTARGA On location at Mille Vini filming a bottarga masterclass. @annabellecloros

It’s a first for our brand, which aims to empower and celebrate the people who not

Until next time,

only make up our trailblazing industry, but are

Annabelle Cloros

elevating it to another level. I hope you join

Editor

me in congratulating all those who appear on the list and celebrate their achievements and future success. This issue also includes a feature on the ultimate summer drinks, with three bartenders

Cover illustration Elena Fombertaux

TOAST OF THE TOWN There’s a new avocado toast in Sydney — find this one at The Lobbyist. @hospitalitymagazine

PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au ARISTINE DOBSON Journalist adobson@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

CIRCULATIONS To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymag azine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

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DISCLAIMER This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2021 – The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd

4 | Hospitality

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NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros and Aristine Dobson

High flyer Single O’s Parachutes have soared to new heights and now have a fully compostable drip coffee bag. The roastery spent two years working on the design of the bags, which are manufactured in Australia. “Roughly 75 per cent of coffee consumed is still instant, and now we’re able to offer a quality and sustainable readyto-go alternative,” says Mike Brabant, general manager. The parachutes come in individual or mixed packs, with the current rotation covering Isende Tanzania (washed); Kercha Ethiopia (natural) and 18th Birthday Blend. To use, simply place the bag in a cup, cover in hot water, remove and you’re good to go. Grab a pack in-store or head to singleo.com.au

Get saucy Barbecue connoisseurs Fancy Hank’s are no strangers to the condiment game and have been busy expanding their sauce range. Tomato sauce, banana ketchup and pineapple reaper have all been added to the line up. The tomato sauce ($13) pays homage to a secret recipe and is made from locally grown tomatoes combined with malt vinegar, Queensland sugar, sea salt and ground mountain pepperberries. The banana ketchup ($13) is based on the iconic Filipino sauce and sees onions, bananas and apple juice added to a base of vinegar, sugar and salt. The pineapple reaper ($11) is one for chilli fans, with white miso and lime juice rounding out the heat. Available in-store or from select stockists. fancyhanks.com

Four Pillars unveils Christmas range Victorian distillery Four Pillars has gone all out this year with the release of its annual Christmas product range. The limited collection includes an aromatic Christmas gin; a gin pudding with Silver Penny Puddings; Rare Dry gin glaze and cranberry and gin orange relish plus a linen tea towel featuring artwork from Andrea Huelin. fourpillarsgin.com 6 | Hospitality

NEWS // Entrée

Loulou opens in Sydney’s Lavender Bay Sydney’s Lower North Shore is now home to French bistro Loulou, which opens its doors this month. It is the first venue from Etymon Projects and sees former Bistro Guillaume talent Billy Hannigan leading the kitchen team as head chef. Loulou is open for all-day dining, with dishes covering everything from crab soufflé omelette to French onion soup. The venue also has a bakery located next door, with baguettes, croissants and sweets made throughout the day.

Nomad announces new wine bar and deli The team behind Nomad restaurant in Sydney will open the doors to Beau wine bar and deli early next year. The 50-seat venue will be headed up by Executive Chef Jacqui Challinor and focus on house-made charcuterie and cheeses. Dips, pickled and marinated vegetables, Margra lamb shoulder and green chilli zhoug are all designed to pair with house-made manoush and there will also be a cold seafood bar. The wine list, curated by Beverage Director Ged Bellis, will celebrate Australian producers and international drops.

Popping bottles

Beau will open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Zero-alcohol spirits brand Lyre’s has released a full-size sparkling wine into the market. Classico Grande takes its cues from Italian sparkling wines and has a classic grape and melon bouquet with a dry finish. The sparkling has aromas of fresh peach, melon and granny smith apple and is best enjoyed icy cold or in a spritz. RRP $14.99. lyres.com.au

Mumu joins the Ivy Precinct Merivale is adding a new concept to Sydney’s Ivy Precinct this summer with Executive Chef Dan Hong. Mumu is a spin-off of the group’s Potts Point restaurant Ms.G’s and will offer a menu that champions SouthEast Asian cookery. Diners can look forward to yuzu slushies and a concise cocktail list. Plus, the venue will operate seven days a week from midday until 2am, putting nightlife back on the agenda in the city. merivale.com December 2021 | 7

NEWS // Entrée

Mabu Mabu An Australian Kitchen Cookbook Nornie Bero; Hardie Grant Books $45 First Nations Chef Nornie Bero is behind Mabu Mabu restaurant in Melbourne and works towards putting Indigenous ingredients in kitchens across Australia. Mabu Mabu is split into six sections covering information on native ingredients and where to find them. Bero also shares her experiences with food as a child and the skills she learned from her father, who ran his own tuckshop in addition to his day job. Mabu Mabu is full of sweet and savoury recipes from seaweed eggs to lemon aspen mussels and wattleseed butter.

Just peachy Melbourne’s Everleigh Bottling Co. has ventured into the zero-alcohol market with the launch of a Bellini. The sparkling cocktail is made with peach purée, grape juice, verjuice and a touch of salt, resulting in a summer refresher ready to chill and drink straight from the bottle. “After much trial and error, we were able to create a non-alcoholic cocktail that builds on the distinctive flavour profile of the Bellini to deliver a full-flavoured, refreshing cocktail bubbling with personality and complexity,” says Co-Owner and Bartender Michael Madrusan. Available for $6 per bottle or $18.95 for a four pack. everleighbottling.com

Maurice Terzini launches Byron Bay venue Sydney Restaurateur Maurice Terzini has

Solotel alumn Alex Kirkwood has officially joined

restaurant in Byron Bay. Belongil Beach

Shell House as the Sydney venue’s food and beverage

Italian Food opens on 8 December,

director. Kirkwood spent more than a decade working

offering locals a seaside dining

at Solotel on award-winning beverage and wine

experience. The menu is a team effort

programs. “I’m so grateful for my time and experience

between Chef Danny Rossi and Icebergs’

with Solotel and Matt Moran’s restaurants, and I can’t

Head Chef Alex Prichard, with local sand

wait to continue expanding my knowledge and passion

whiting with oregano butter and pumpkin

for food and wine in my new role across Shell House,”

risotto sure to become highlights. The

he says. Kirkwood will oversee all food and beverage

venue is supporting boutique, family-run

across Shell House’s concepts which include Sky Bar,

wineries and working with producers

Clocktower Bar, Menzies Bar and the Dining Room and

including Boon Luck Farm Organics and

Terrace. shellhouse.com.au

Byron Bay Mozzarella. bbif.com.au

8 | Hospitality

Shell House welcomes Alex Kirkwood

expanded out of the city with his first

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PRODUCE // Boysenberry

Established canes produce up to 2kg of fruit per year From the Rosaceae family New Zealand is the top producer

Flowers have separate pistils

Berries grow on low, trailing plants Deep maroon/ purple in colour Canes produce fruit after two years

Berries do not ripen once harvested

10 | Hospitality

PRODUCE // Boysenberry

Boysenberry A tart, juicy hybrid of four berries. WORDS Annabelle Cloros Origins

a sheltered position from the wind and full sun. It’s

The boysenberry is a perennial plant that belongs

best to plant them at least 1m apart in well-drained

to the Rubus genus. The hybrid is a cross between a

sandy loam soil. It is advisable to use a trellis to

raspberry, blackberry, dewberry and loganberry and

train the canes to grow horizontally. Boysenberry

was developed by Californian Horticulturist Rudolph

plants require fertiliser to produce a decent amount

Boysen. Boysen attempted to produce commercial

of fruit and should be watered adequately to

quantities of the berry in Napa, but did not succeed

ensure soil does not dry out.

and left the vines on his farm. Fellow Horticulturist

In Australia, the plants produce white flowers

Walter Knott heard about Boysen’s work and

with five petals between December and January,

retrieved the vines, planting them on Knott’s Berry

with harvest occurring from January to February.

Farm in Buena Park. Knott went on to become the

The fruit typically weighs up to 8g and is easily

first person to commercially cultivate boysenberries

removed from the stem by hand once peak ripeness

in Southern California.

is achieved. The canes should be removed after the

Boysenberry production peaked between 1940

plant no longer produces fruit.

and 1950 and even exceeded raspberry and blackberry crops at one point in time. However,

Flavour profile and appearance

fungal diseases and issues transporting the fruit

Often compared to an elongated blackberry,

without damage became problematic during the

the boysenberry is deep maroon/dark purple in

’60s, with production declining significantly.

colour. The fruit has thin skin and a soft texture

Growers in New Zealand made strides by

with a flavour profile that’s sweet, tangy and

developing a number of thorn-less varieties in the

tart. Naturally, it tastes like a combination of a

’80s, and the country is now the largest producer

blackberry and a raspberry with intense floral

and exporter of the fruit. There are two main

flavour notes. The fruit has a green stem that’s

varieties of boysenberry produced: Rubus ursinus

connected to a crown.

x idaeus (non-thorn-less) and Rubus ursinus var loganobaccus (thorn-less). In Australia, there are around 120 growers

Culinary applications and storage The berries are best eaten within a few days of harvest

producing raspberry and blackberry crops across all

and should be stored in the fridge. Berries should

states except the Northern Territory. Rubus varieties,

only be washed before consumption and exposure

including boysenberries, equate to less than 1 per

to moisture should be prevented to ensure longevity.

cent of fresh raspberry and blackberry production.

Boysenberries can also be frozen in an air-tight bag.

Growth and harvest

they’re also commonly cooked in pies, cakes and

Boysenberries grow from canes that can reach up

preserves and are a great seasonal addition to gin-

to 2m in height and 2m in width. The plants require

or vodka-based cocktails. ■

While boysenberries are a treat to enjoy fresh,

December 2021 | 11

DRINKS // Summer cocktails

Everything under the sun Summertime brings great abundance when it comes to produce, and bartenders are finding new ways to make the most of what’s in season. WORDS Aristine Dobson

12 | Hospitality

DRINKS // Summer cocktails

WHETHER IT’S A fruity concoction or a refreshing fizz, the holiday period is all about having a good time. The season generally sees margaritas, mimosas, mojitos and spritzes come out on top. But

bartenders can also take inspiration from Tiki cocktails, where rumbased drinks such as the piña colada prove bigger is better.

Hospitality talks to Evan Stroeve from Re-, Abby Roennfeldt

from Hades Hula House and Josh Stevens from Lily Blacks and

New Gold Mountain about crafting summer menus and the role

seasonality plays in drinks plus their tips for creating the ultimate thirst-quenchers.

It is hard to pinpoint the perfect summer beverage, but freshness,

sweetness and tang are all foundational. Now the weather is on the

warmer side, drinkers are steering away from booze-heavy cocktails and moving towards icy, fruitier numbers. The shift sees whiskey

and bourbon traded for gin, vodka and spiced rum along with a lean towards carbonation and fruit juice.

Creating a balanced drink is a must all year round, and simply

comes down to what’s in the shaker. Re- Bartender Evan Stroeve ensures harmony is always front of mind. “Balance of flavour

is the most important aspect of any drink whether it’s summer

or winter,” he says. “Finding a balance between sweet and sour, savoury and bitter and umami is really important as well as working with temperature and texture.”

Stroeve says the defining elements of summertime drinks are

“bubbles, vibrancy and effervescence” and predicts lower-ABV options will be a hit. “When I think of summer, I think of sessions sitting out

in a beer garden or an outdoor area [having] quite a few, and that is made [possible] by low-ABV options,” says the bartender.

At Hades Hula House in Adelaide, Owner Abby Roennfeldt goes

by the motto “light, bright and fresh”. As a Tiki-inspired bar, the

majority of Hula Houseʼs menu is geared towards produce found in tropical climates, which means the fruitier, the better. “We’re

definitely looking for super-fruity, super-layered [cocktails],” says Roennfeldt. “We’re using the whole fruit, so there’s pulp in our

juices and you’re getting that velvety mouthfeel of a whole fruit juice opposed to an extract or flavouring.”

Australia is spoiled for choice when it comes to summer produce

and local spirits, which gives bartenders a great advantage in terms of variety. One can argue a cocktail can use any kind of fruit, but

for Roennfeldt, there are some that are hard to ignore. “Obviously,

there are things that aren’t going to change; you’re always going to see fresh lime and those sorts of things,ˮ she says. “Then you have things like lychee and passionfruit, which are definitely summer tropical fruits.”

In the spirit of Tiki cocktails, Hades Hula House goes big on

citrus and melon, putting their own spin on popular drinks. The Lemon Drop gin cocktail uses Stone Pine Lemon Drop gin and

Mad Monkey saccharum as the base. Another sees spicy, savoury

flavours featured in a melon and lemon option. “One of my go-tos

is the Busted Thong, which features Karu Distillery Morita chipotle vodka,” says Roennfeldt. “We shake that with a slice of jalapeño, so we’ve got subtle warmth from the vodka and a lasting heat from the chipotle.”

December 2021 | 13

DRINKS // Summer cocktails

“We’ve got eight different cocktails that feature eight iconic Sydney producers.” – Evan Stroeve Over in Melbourne, Josh Stevens does a little

bit of everything at Lily Blacks and New Gold Mountain, but also dabbles with Tiki flavour

profiles in the summertime. The bartender opts for Caribbean-style rums with the addition

of strawberries. “The Husk till Dawn at New

Gold is a great Tiki-style drink,” says Stevens. “It has falernum, which is like a [Caribbean-]

style spiced syrup and husk agricole rum. I pair it with strawberries, apple juice and a little

Re-’s Market

The Busted

and Growers

Thong features

cocktail uses

chipotle

whole surplus

vodka from

mangoes

Karu Distillery

from the

in the Blue

market

Mountains

Dawn highlights

first Tiki bar in

agricole rum

Los Angeles in

which is distilled

the 1930s

from pressed sugar cane

Stroeve. “We make a honey soy mango chip from the skin and we crack open the seed (which

most people wouldn’t think to use) and use the

little seeds inside, which are really bitter. We use them as a bittering agent for vermouth.”

which are ice and volume. A Hoshizaki ice

reduction, which can be achieved through a

rotating seasonal menu. This approach allows venues to switch up their offering and get

creative with what’s available. “Our menu

changes to fit what fruits are in season,” says

Stevens. “I’ve got rockmelon and mint coming

operators to think about sustainable practices through thoughtful planning. Re-’s menu is described by Stroeve as “the definition of

seasonality”, and the second iteration Never Wasted delivers on its name. “A lot of the

produce we use is in excess at the market,” he says. “We’ve got eight different cocktails that

feature eight iconic Sydney producers. We had

a conversation with each of them and narrowed

mind when building summer drinks: two of

maker is a staple at many bars including Hades Hula House. Roennfeldt uses filtered water to

make clear-cut cubes. “As a predominant rule,

we shake all of our drinks with a large-format

cube and then we strain over fresh ice,” she says. “Sometimes we strain over shaved ice depending on the drink style.”

At Lily Blacks, ice blocks are hand-carved to fit

the venue’s glassware. Ensuring a slow dilution rate is the main focus for Stevens, who uses a large-format ice cube in stirred-down drinks.

“It’s really important to have a big cube because

there is a lower surface area to volume ratio,” he

says. “It doesn’t dilute the drink as quickly, which is important in summer when it dilutes much faster. The other option is crushed ice, which gives you a self-replenishing drink.”

For both practical and visual purposes, Stroeve

down what items of waste they produce in their

uses ice from Bare Bones Ice Company, which

as hero ingredients in each cocktail.”

to accommodate glass shapes and cocktail styles.

production processes and then used those items A representation of Re-’s waste-minimisation

ethos is the Market and Growers, a mango

cocktail consisting of Tanqueray gin, ancho chilli, 14 | Hospitality

and fresh and is the epitome of summer,” says

A common thread among venues is waste

A change in season encourages bar staff and

opened the

the pit. “The flesh is obviously beautiful, bright

There are many important factors to keep in

a jalapeño-based drink.” The Husk till

the mango from the skin and flesh right down to

strawberry ferment.”

into season and all the chillies as well, so I’ve got

Donn Beach

orange and mango. The drink uses every part of

produce crystal-clear ice. Different shapes are used “We use longer spheres of ice and bigger blocks,”

says Stroeve. “It’s really aesthetic and it slows the dilution rate.”

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DRINKS // Summer cocktails

“It’s really important to have a big cube because there is a lower surface area to volume ratio.” – Josh Stevens Longevity is the name of the game when it comes to

summertime drinking. The consensus among bartenders is taller drinks with lower alcohol content are perfect for warm weather.

“You get dehydrated in summer, and when you’re hot, you want to be constantly sipping on your drink,” says Stevens. “With a longer drink, you get a little more bang for your buck and you don’t get drunk as fast.”

Although larger quantities appear to be the most practical

choice for summer, there is also a place for hard-hitting short

sippers. “I always love a short drink, so it’s got to be the Corpse Reviver Number Two,” says Stevens. “It’s an absinthe-rinsed

glass and then you have gin, Cointreau, Lillet Blanc and lemon juice. Flavour-wise, it’s quite tart without being too sweet. The

Cointreau adds a little bit of sweetness in there to balance it and if you pick the right gin for it, it’s out of this world.”

Warmer climes provide the ideal window to experiment with spirits, produce, ice and volume. Bartenders are increasingly

mindful about the ingredients they use, which is a sign of what’s to come moving forward. “The Australian summer is amazing;

it’s one of the best seasons in the world,” says Stroeve. “We have access to all this amazing tropical fruit; everything from mango and pineapple to passionfruit, berries and stone fruit. All these

iconic cocktail fruits are thriving, so we showcase them as best as we can — it’s the modus operandi for summer.” ■ 16 | Hospitality

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THE BLACK PEARL in Melbourne’s Fitzroy is known the world over for its dedication to excellence. The bar has snagged a number of awards and is the go-to spot for pre-dinner, after-dinner and late-night cocktails. Bartender Oisin Conneely says the venue began noticing a shift in the drinking habits of customers, with more patrons seeking alcohol-free options. The Black Pearl team went on to create a selection of non-alcoholic cocktails that are just as good as anything else on the menu. “We like to put as much effort into non-alcoholic options as well as our alcoholic range,” says Conneely. “It can be as simple as a highball or something more complex like the tomato spritz.” Lacto-fermented tomatoes form the base of the drink and are combined with lemon juice, honey and ginger in a shaker. Lyre’s Italian Spritz is the final component, which “brings out the vibrant freshness of the tomato”, says Conneely. To serve, the mix is strained into a glass filled with ice before it’s finished off with a cherry tomato and a basil leaf. ■

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18 | Hospitality

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HOSPITALITYʼS 50 GAMECHANGERS

Ade Adeniyi, Little Lagos First-time Restaurateur Ade Adeniyi launched Little Lagos with the intention of bringing the spirit of Nigeria to Australia. The venue opened in Sydney’s Enmore after a regular pop-up at Earl’s Juke Joint and has been showcasing the diversity of Nigerian cuisine ever since. Head Chef Kemi Fajemisin is running the kitchen and creates national dishes such

as jollof rice and a range of stews. Adeniyi is lauded for his ambition and efforts in representing the many ethnic communities that comprise Nigerian food and culture.

The hospitality professionals shaping the future of the industry.

Kylie Javier Ashton, manager & consultant

THE HOSPITALITY SECTOR is made up of people who aren’t afraid to push the envelope — and that’s a key part of what makes the industry so exciting. From chefs reconnecting with the land and bartenders

The front-of-house star

bar when it comes to service, it’s a great time to be a part of food and

Sydney’s Momofuku Seiobo

spent nearly a decade at

turning waste into cocktails to front-of-house managers raising the

until the restaurant bowed

beverage in Australia.

out of the dining scene earlier

Hospitality magazine is celebrating these very people and their

teams with the launch of 50 Gamechangers — a non-ranked initiative

this year. During her tenure, Kylie

that shines a light on the professionals who are taking the industry to

Javier Ashton was a force to be reckoned with when it

demonstrated by the 2021 Gamechangers.

spotlight alongside chefs, bartenders and sommeliers.

new heights. Please join us in celebrating the grit and determination

came to bringing service professionals into an equal She has continued her work with Women in Hospitality, fostering up-and-coming talent through a mentoring program and recently launched tie-dye business KJ.LA.

Palisa Anderson, Chat Thai After working overseas, Palisa Anderson returned to Sydney to

Javier Ashton is enjoying a well-earned break from daily restaurant life, but we’re crossing our fingers she’ll be back soon.

become a second-generation restaurateur of her family business Chat Thai. Anderson has overseen the expansion

Sarah Baldwin, Joy

of the Chat Thai brand, which

Joy is a pocket-sized restaurant in

now covers nine eateries along

Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley run by a

with Boon Cafe/Jarern Chai Asian

chef and a front-of-house dynamo.

Grocer. She has made huge strides in

To know Joy is to love it, and Sarah

bridging the gap between restaurants and producers through

Baldwin has been doing things her

Boon Luck Farm Organics. Anderson has also explored the

way after recently becoming the

way food affects communities outside of the kitchen and the

sole owner of the business. The chef

significance of migrant cultures in foodservice through various

took some time out last year to rethink

platforms. As the industry moves towards a more conscious

and rework Joy, and she’s on a serious

future, Anderson is firmly at the forefront.

roll with the support of Maddie Sim (who doubles as a bartender). Baldwin continues to evolve Joy’s hyperseasonal menu with dishes that are enjoyed in person rather than on Instagram. But you’ve got to be quick to grab a seat or hope for a very rare cancellation.

20 | Hospitality

HOSPITALITYʼS 50 GAMECHANGERS

Jo Barrett, Harvest Newrybar Jo Barrett is a wunderkind who can basically do it all. Whether it’s launching technical guide Have-A-Go or rearing yabbies in ecofriendly hub Future Food System (FFS) in Melbourne’s Federation industry. FFS has come to an end, and Barrett’s next chapter will

Jeremy Blackmore, Cantina Ok!

see her head to Byron Bay in early 2022 to spearhead Harvest

Jeremy Blackmore is one of

Newrybar alongside Matt Stone as

the figures behind Sydney bar

co-executive chefs. The culinary

Cantina Ok! The venue has

approach will focus on the

racked up the accolades and is

best the region has to offer,

currently sitting at number 28 on The

with Barrett spending time in

World’s 50 Best Bars list. Cantina offers a

the kitchen and on the road

unique bar experience anchored by rare tequilas and mezcals, with

to foster relationships with

Blackmore travelling to Mexico to learn the stories behind the bottles

producers. The end goal?

and form connections with producers. It’s one thing to sell a drink, but

To put a more innovative and

Blackmore does so much more by taking a deep dive into the origins

sustainable food cycle in place.

of the spirits found behind the bar, passing the knowledge on to staff

Square, Barrett is a huge part of the future of Australia’s culinary

and patrons alike.

Matthew Breen’s Hobart wine bar

O Tama Carey, Lankan Filling Station

Sonny is small in size but big

O Tama Carey kicked off her

Matthew Breen, Sonny

culinary career in the UK before

on experience. The chef left Templo to open Sonny in 2019,

exploring a range of cuisines in

and created a menu that pays

Sydney. The chef worked in the

homage to the simple things

kitchens of Bistro Moncur and the

— think rotating snacks, freshly

acclaimed Billy Kwong before she took

made pasta and vinyl playing in the background. Wine is a big part of the picture at the walk-in-only venue, with around 50 options available at a time covering

on the head chef role at Berta. Carey launched her first restaurant Lankan Filling Station in 2018, which sees a focus on house-made hoppers; the perfect vessel to scoop up a rotating selection of curries and sambols.

minimal-intervention drops from Australia and some interesting varietals from afar, too.

Jung Eun Chae, Chae Chae is not a conventional

Joel Bennetts, Fish Shop

restaurant — for one, it’s located in a residential space. Jung Eun Chae

After 14 years in the industry, Joel

quietly created a six-seat concept

Bennetts is hitting his stride by

over the past two years with a focus

the sea in Sydney’s Bondi. The

on slow food; specifically traditional

chef started out in the kitchen

fermentation techniques that are

of Pier before working alongside

commonplace in Korea. Each service is

Jeremy Strode at Bistrode.

unique thanks to an ever-evolving menu which

Bennetts completed stints at Three

sees guests sample up to five dishes. The good news is Chae is

Blue Ducks, Hotel Palisade and Peppe’s

moving to a larger property in Cockatoo, and there are plans to

before taking on the executive chef role at Fish Shop in 2020. It’s

expand the fermentation program, too. But snagging a booking

been full speed ahead since he joined the Fishbowl Group, with

will likely be a little harder as word travels about the Chae magic.

Bennetts launching takeaway-only venue Fsh Mkt in October this year and future venues in the pipeline. The chef’s culinary finesse is on display at both venues through dishes that hero produce and don’t skip on the flavour.

December 2021 | 21

HOSPITALITYʼS 50 GAMECHANGERS

Ben Devlin, Pipit Restaurant The Northern Rivers coastal town of Pottsville in New South Wales was the location of choice for Ben Devlin and Yen Trinh to open their first restaurant in 2019. Devlin has worked as a chef for more than 15 years at eateries such as Noma in Copenhagen and Paper Daisy in Cabarita before he took the plunge and launched Pipit. The restaurant

Jacqui Challinor, Nomad

serves everything from wild game and native produce to

After a tumultuous two years

subtropical fruits and vegetables.

(restaurant fire, venue relocation

Almost everything is made

and numerous lockdowns across

from scratch in-house

two states), Nomad Group Executive

and there’s a serious

Chef Jacqui Challinor has emerged with a shiny new Melbourne kitchen and a reputation as the figure behind

commitment to minimising waste and maximising output. Pipit has only

one of Sydney’s most-loved pivots. The chef’s takeaway offering saw

been around for two years,

everything from hundreds-and-thousands-topped buns to bombolone

but it’s already way ahead

and hashbrowns fly out the door. Now, Nomad Sydney is back in the

of its time.

swing of things with a refreshed menu and a stellar house charcuterie offering. 2022 will be chock-full for Challinor, who will work across new openings in Melbourne and Surry Hills.

Shane Delia, Delia Group & Providoor Veteran Chef Shane Delia is no stranger to the hospitality game, and the launch of Providoor was exactly what the industry needed to get through the challenges of COVID-19. The platform saw restaurants that would not usually offer takeaway or delivery jump on board to provide diners with a touch of normality during lockdowns. Providoor initially launched in Victoria in 2020 before debuting in New South Wales and the Australian Capital Territory this year, and is still giving customers the option to bring their favourite restaurants home.

Josephine Perry Clift, Margaret After stints at Rockpool Dining Group (pre-restructure) and Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, Josephine Perry Clift is now the maître d’ of Margaret; Neil Perry’s first solo venue. Perry Clift is running the floor of the Double Bay restaurant, which was ready to go right before lockdown was announced. The Margaret team

Freja Dunnell, Elska Maître d’ Freja Dunnell’s path to opening Elska started with a café and ended with a 12-seat fine diner. Freja

the restaurant’s bookings reaching capacity for months to come (even the wait list is exhausted!) It’s a

and husband Chef Nathan Dunnell have created one

credit to the father-daughter team

of Brisbane’s most-coveted eateries that offers diners

who have created a neighbourhood

a super-charged seasonal menu that encompasses

eatery that puts as much emphasis

15 courses prepared according to Nordic cooking

on food as it does on service; and

techniques. The restaurant aims to take guests on

they’re both pretty great.

a journey of currency and passion, and the pair have absolutely nailed the brief.

22 | Hospitality

fast made up for lost time, with

When passionate Aussie pig farmers like Anne-Marie & Frank come together with chefs like Ben & Mike, magic happens! Sharing skills, knowledge and passion, they bring joy to all things pork. They are PorkStars. Left to right Chef Ben Sinfield – Banh Xeo Bar, Anne-Maria & Frank Vigliante – Taluca Park Free Range, Chef Mike Eggert - Totti’s

porkstar.com.au

HOSPITALITYʼS 50 GAMECHANGERS

Paul Farag, Nour Paul Farag’s culinary creativity has gone from strength to strength after stepping into the executive chef role at Nour in Sydney’s Surry Hills. After time at Josh Niland’s Fish Butchery, Farag decided to explore the culinary traditions of his Egyptian heritage for the first time in a professional kitchen environment. The chef is currently working on a new concept for the group behind Nour, Aalia restaurant, which will open in Martin Place shortly.

Lauren Eldridge, Berowra Waters Inn Pastry Chef Lauren Eldridge has worked

Hideaki Fukada, Kuon

in a raft of high-end kitchens across the

Sydney’s affinity for omakase has been unstoppable

globe and alongside some of the industry’s

over the past two years, and Hideaki Fukada is behind

brightest culinary superstars. Overseas gigs

two of the city’s most in-demand restaurants. Kuon

at Le Cinq in Paris and Osteria Francescana

Omakase and Tempura Kuon are both located in

in Italy saw the young gun hone her skills

Darling Square and offer a chef’s table experience

before she received the Josephine Pignolet

to patrons. Executive Chef Fukada changes cold-

Young Chef of the Year Award in 2016,

pressed sesame oil from Japan for each service at

making her the first woman to win in more

the tempura location and serves just 10 diners at a time,

than a decade. Eldridge went on to work

with the sea urchin egg wrapped in shiso hitting signature

for the Van Haandel group in Melbourne

dish status. Over at the omakase restaurant, the Kuon team’s commitment to excellence is on display with each morsel. A third Kuon location will open in 2022, which will showcase game meat cooked over fire.

before returning to Sydney, where she is now heading up pastry at Berowra Waters Inn. Eldridge’s creations are nothing short of intricate, with the chef playing a key role in taking the fine diner into its next chapter.

Hannah Green, Etta Hannah Green worked in front of house at Melbourne’s Attica before opening Etta in Brunswick. The restaurant is a culmination of Green’s understanding and knowledge, with Etta delivering a neighbourhood eatery that excels in every way. Like many businesses, Etta provided an at-home experience for diners over Victoria’s six lockdowns. Green’s dedication to her team has put Etta on the map, resulting in a restaurant that’s raising the bar in a big way.

Brendan Fong, Lilymu After time at Merivale’s Mr Wong in the Sydney CBD, Brendan Fong headed over to Parramatta to head up Lilymu as executive chef. It’s been one year since the eatery opened its doors and it has become a go-to destination in the booming area. The ‘fusion’ restaurant sees a culinary approach that centres around Chinese and South-East Asian flavours. The roasted duck with Lao sausage is not to be skipped on, and the same goes for the char siu-style full-blood Wagyu blade fillet. Fong is crafting a dining experience that pays homage to the dynamic nature of Asian cuisines, with Lilymu firmly sitting in a lane of its own.

24 | Hospitality

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HOSPITALITYʼS 50 GAMECHANGERS

Jake Kellie, Arkhé A trip to Singapore resulted in Jake Kellie taking up a job offer that would change the path of his career for good. After meeting Chef and Restaurateur Dave Pynt, Kellie worked his way up to becoming head chef of Burnt Ends. The Singapore venue rose to no.53 on The World’s 50 Best and no.5 on Asia’s 50 Best lists during Kellie’s tenure. The chef is now back on home soil in Adelaide and has opened his first restaurant Arkhé. The venue is Australia’s first open-flame restaurant and provides a diner experience unlike anything else.

Analiese Gregory, chef and author Chef Analiese Gregory moved to Hobart in 2017 and has spent

Amy Hamilton, Liberté

the past four years becoming

The chef started her career as a dishwasher and now runs

acquainted with the fruits of the

one of Albany’s most in-demand and acclaimed venues. Liberté is a wine and cocktail bar from Amy Hamilton

land. The chef departed the now-

that serves French-Vietnamese plates and checks all

closed Franklin in 2019 and has

the boxes required for a memorable dining and drinking

since hosted dinners and events, penned a book called How Wild

experience. The wine program shines a light on local

Things Are and filmed TV series A

Western Australian producers who are fast climbing the

Girl’s Guide to Hunting, Fishing and Wild Cooking. In between these milestones, Gregory has continued to expand her enviable skill set

ranks and the chilli crab and garlic noodles are one of the most smashable plates going around. Hamilton is equally across the cocktail offering as she is the food, collaborating with bartenders to create mainstays (the Pink Galah has been around since 2017) and rotating specials, too.

and is often out diving for urchin, making charcuterie and cheese or preserving olives — and that’s not even scratching the surface.

Maurice Terzini, Icebergs Restaurateur Maurice Terzini is behind one of Sydney’s most iconic venues, Icebergs Dining Room and Bar,

Nicholas Hill, Porcine He took pub dining to another level at The Old Fitzroy Hotel in Sydney’s Woolloomooloo before headlining The Milan Cricket Club. Now, you’ll find Nicholas Hill running the kitchen of Porcine; a French bistro atop natural wine shop P&V Wine + Liquor

which never fails to impress even after all these years. Terzini recently sold CicciaBella in Bondi and is now gearing up to expand outside the city with a new venture in Byron Bay. Terzini’s entrepreneurial spirit and eye for detail continues to inspire the industry to persevere and offer the very best in dining experiences. It’s about quality, not quantity.

Merchants in Paddington. The chef’s enthusiasm for pork sees a whole beastcentric menu that heroes classic Euro techniques. After being faced with an

Tania Ho, Banh Xeo Bar Tania Ho met her future husband and business partner Ben Sinfield at St. John

extended lockdown not long after opening,

restaurant in London before the pair moved to Australia. Ho and Sinfield ran early

Porcine is thriving once

versions of Banh Xeo Bar at the Paddington Markets in Sydney before they decided

again, and while

to go all in. Banh Xeo Bar is located in The Cannery Rosebery

it might be a bit

and heroes the Vietnamese dishes Ho grew up eating.

warm to crank

The venue was named after its signature dish, which

the fireplace

fast became a hit with diners. Ho’s creative thinking

now, the venue

combined with Sinfield’s expertise sees the venue

has charm to

plate up contemporary iterations of Vietnamese

boot — just look

classics. Hospitality’s recommendation? The bún bò

at the branded

hu is a soup you can’t ignore.

plates!

26 | Hospitality

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HOSPITALITYʼS 50 GAMECHANGERS

Rosheen Kaul, Etta

Thi Le, Anchovy

She has described

Chef Thi Le opened Anchovy in 2015 and has continued to shape Vietnamese-

herself as a

Australian cookery ever since. The chef seamlessly

latecomer to the

marries different elements of South-East Asian

industry, but Rosheen

cuisines with Australian produce and portrays the

Kaul fast made up for

foundational elements of Vietnamese cooking

any lost time. Kaul worked in

without any filters: think onion, garlic and chilli,

kitchens including Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Melbourne and Smith and Deli. She penned The Isol(Asian) Cookbook in 2020, which was also the same year Kaul decided to take a risk and accept the head chef role at Hannah Green’s Etta. Kaul and Green have excelled together over the past year, with the power pair creating one of Melbourne’s

fish sauce and fermented shrimp paste. The Anchovy team made bánh mì during lockdown, which was so successful it resulted in the launch of a permanent venue next door. Ca Com Bánh Mì Bar rotates fillings and proteins and also sells take-home meals.

hottest dining experiences — no mean feat in a competitive landscape.

Junda Khoo, Ho Jiak Chef Junda Khoo left a job in commerce to open Malaysian restaurant Ho Jiak with business partner William Xie, and Sydneysiders are more than grateful for the career change. Ho Jiak first launched in Strathfield, but it wasn’t long before diners took note of the restaurant’s laksa and signature char kway teow and the venue expanded to Haymarket and later, Town Hall. The Ho Jiak brand also introduced a sibling venue to the market this year. Amah is an exercise in collaboration between Khoo and former Merivale Chef Loong Oon, with the eatery’s culinary direction inspired by food cooked by Oon’s amah (grandmother). Four venues down, and Khoo has changed the scope of Malaysian cuisine in Sydney for good.

Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez, Maíz Mexican Street Food When Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez envisioned Maíz Mexican Street Food, he pictured a space that

Rhiann Mead, Bennelong

would represent his community.

Bennelong’s head pastry chef was front and centre during

The former Three Blue Ducks chef

the restaurant’s Lockdown Lamington challenge, doling out

was determined to introduce

some much-needed tips to help the public recreate Peter Gilmore’s iconic dessert. Now, UK-born Rhiann Mead is back

a wide range of traditional Mexican foods that went beyond

in the kitchen leading the pastry team who have recently

tacos and margaritas. Starting

debuted the Golden Crackle (hello, caramelised potato

a business is trying at the best

starch!) There’s no doubt Mead has the skills, and we can’t

of times, but the uncertainty of

wait to see what the next year holds for the chef.

the pandemic left Lopez with an even greater challenge.

Michael Madrusan, The Everleigh

Newtown in 2020, with the

Michael Madrusan has always strived to exceed

venue delivering an experience

expectations. The bartender is behind beverage

that echoes the food found in

consultancy group Made in the Shade and runs

the chef’s hometown of Baja

acclaimed Melbourne venues including The Everleigh

California, Mexico. Lopez has

and Bar Margaux. Not to forget Navy Strength Ice Co.

a background in permaculture,

or The Everleigh Bottled Cocktail Co. Madrusan and

which sees sustainable farming

his partner in business and life Zara are raising the

form an important pillar of his

standards of fine drinking in Australia in-venue and at home. And that’s certainly something to cheers to. 28 | Hospitality

Lopez opened Maíz in Sydney’s

culinary approach.

The restaurateur and chef has been on a roll over the past few years, expanding the Pho Nom brand and launching Bia Hoi in Melbourne. Jerry Mai turned to takeaway and delivery to get through Victoria’s six lockdowns and also headlined a number of pop-ups at a winery, brewery and farmers market, which saw the chef and her team create everything from spit-roast pork bánh mì to sticky lamb ribs and oysters with nahm jim. While the at-home offering has been retired, diners are now able to get their hands on a steaming bowl of pho straight from the kitchen and sink an icy Vietnamese beer from the tap — bliss.

Chris Lucas, Lucas Restaurants He’s been the voice of the Victorian industry since the

Shannon Martinez, Smith and Daughters

pandemic began, and Chris Lucas has been a force to be reckoned with over the past 19 months. The Lucas

The poster chef for plant-based dining

Restaurants CEO called for government assistance

continues to dominate with her enviable

when it wasn’t given to the sector, supported staff

skills and business acumen. Martinez

and launched initiatives to give a little love to frontline

merged Smith and Daughters and Smith and

workers. Not to forget the

Deli into a mega vegan hub this year, bringing

arrival of the much-

together the best of both worlds under one roof.

anticipated Society

She was also a key part in developing Ovolo Hotels’ vegetarian restaurant Lona Misa in South Yarra. The chef has overcome a battle with breast cancer and is now in the clear after undergoing treatment. In spite of recent challenges, she has never waivered on her commitment to providing an inclusive eating experience to the public.

and Yakimono restaurants in Melbourne’s CBD. There’s undoubtedly more to come from the powerhouse that is Lucas Restaurants, and we can’t wait to see what’s next from the experience makers.

Jesse Orleans, Happyfield Nostalgia is back in a big way, and it doesn’t get more old school than a stack of ultra-fluffy pancakes and a mug of coffee. Jesse Orleans opened Happyfield in Sydney’s Inner West with Chris Theodosi in 2020 and the team have

Josh Niland, Saint Peter

channelled big diner energy into their debut venue. Orleans spent time in highly lauded kitchens in Canada before making

Josh Niland has changed the way people

a snap decision to move to Melbourne where he worked in a

cook with and view seafood for the better after opening pioneering restaurant Saint Peter in 2017. The chef takes a whole-fish approach to cooking, using everything

Footscray café. Sydney beckoned, and Orleans wound up at The Grounds where he met Theodosi and the rest is history. Happyfield’s sunny interior fuels an experience of enjoyment, and the egg sandwiches are just as bright.

from the eyes and skin to the tail. Niland and his wife Julie expanded their venue portfolio with the launch of Fish Butchery

Dash Rumble, Pilot

in 2018, with another location set to open

She’s one half of the force behind Canberra’s Pilot

in Waterloo shortly. The pair certainly

restaurant in Canberra’s Ainslie, and Co-Owner

didn’t slow down this year with Charcoal

Dash Rumble has steered the 30-seater through

Fish arriving in Rose Bay during lockdown.

numerous lockdowns to brighter days. What makes

The chicken shop riff uses Murray cod in

Pilot so great is not just the food from chef team

place of chooks, bringing sustainable and

Ross McQuinn and Malcolm Hanslow, but the all-

thoughtful eating to the suburbs. Niland is

Australian wine list, modern but laidback interior and

covering all the casual, retail and fine dining bases, proving you can have it all.

the knowledgeable front-of-house team who create an atmosphere that’s all about keeping the good times rolling.

December 2021 | 29

HOSPITALITYʼS 50 GAMECHANGERS

Jerry Mai, Pho Nom & Bia Hoi

HOSPITALITYʼS 50 GAMECHANGERS

Melissa Palinkas, Young George

Nick Tesar, Bar Liberty

Melissa Palinkas is the head chef and owner of the

Bar Liberty Manager Nick Tesar may

award-winning Young George and Ethos Deli + Dining

have spent much of the last year and

Room in East Fremantle, Perth. Her specialties lie in the

a bit in lockdown, but the acclaimed

production of charcuterie and showcasing sustainable

drinks figure was more than occupied

cooking practices through dishes that put ingredients

creating takeaway offerings and

first. Palinkas is known for her no-waste approach to

continuing his work at Marionette

cooking and is of the belief that every part of an animal

Liqueur. The local company has

or vegetable can be used. The chef’s venues encourage

released everything from curacao

community connection, with her menu sparking a conversation

and apricot brandy to amaretto, and

around seasonal eating. Continuing to grow as a chef is a must for providing an evolving

it looks like there’s more on the way.

dining experience, and Palinkas continues to hit it out of the park by pushing the boundaries.

Tesar has returned to the bar to pour and mix drinks at Liberty, which is firmly back in the swing of things. We hear he

Alanna Sapwell, Beach Byron Bay

makes a pretty damn good highball.

The Queensland-born chef returned to the Sunshine State after making her mark at Josh Niland’s Saint Peter to take on the head chef role at Arc Dining in Brisbane. While the Howard Smith Wharves restaurant closed last year due to the impacts of COVID-19, Alanna Sapwell launched Esmay; a pop-up at Noosa’s Wasabi Restaurant. Come February 2022, Sapwell will start her next chapter as head chef of Beach Byron Bay. We’re keeping our eyes peeled for her debut menu, which will see the chef’s signature produce-centric approach return to the dining scene.

Tristan Rosier, Arthur & Jane Chef and Restaurateur Tristan Rosier first made waves with his Sydney fine diner Arthur in 2018. Now, he’s opened Jane; a more casual neighbourhood eatery a stone’s throw away from its sibling venue on Bourke Street, Surry Hills. While Rosier will be heavily involved, Arthur chefs Kevin Oh and Victoria Scriven will be at the forefront of the 30-seat concept. Rosier restarted COVID-19 pivot Arthur To-Go during the last lockdown, serving the local community and

John Rivera, Kariton Sorbetes The former fine dining chef left restaurants

beyond with a revolving menu, and of course, that sourdough. Good things come in small packages, and two hits in three years is a sign of what’s to come for Rosier and his team.

behind to start his own business with Chef Minh Duong last year. The pair launched Kariton Sorbetes; a South-East Asian dessert concept that heroes the flavours

Sharon Romeo, Fino Sharon Romeo first opened Fino with business partner and

they grew up with: think buko pandan, ube,

Chef David Swan in McLaren Vale in 2006. The restaurant

leche flan and more. Kariton has recently

made a move to the Barossa Valley in 2014, where it has

expanded from tubs to specialty desserts

since maintained a reputation for excellence. The Fino

including a riff on a lamington and things on sticks. The brand will also be growing from

team stuck with one venue until 2019 when they expanded to Adelaide’s CBD with the launch of Fino Vino. Front-

an online-only concept to a bricks-and-

of-house whiz Romeo has received accolades for her

mortar store in Footscray, Melbourne. Rivera

outstanding skill set and commitment to providing a dining

and Duong have changed up the local

experience patrons won’t forget. A focus on provenance, good

gelato landscape for good, and

wine and warm service form the foundation of Fino, along with the

we couldn’t be more here for it.

inimitable charm of its superstar maître d’.

30 | Hospitality

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HOSPITALITYʼS 50 GAMECHANGERS

Anna Ugarte-Carral, The Old Fitzroy Hotel After stints at fine diners Momofuku Seiobo, Noma and Lyles, Anna Ugarte-Carral took on her first head chef role at The Old Fitzroy Hotel in Sydney’s Woolloomooloo earlier this year. The 2020 Josephine Pignolet Young Chef of the Year Award winner has established a kitchen that honours collaboration and sees the team work together to create a cohesive menu. The position has provided a ripe opportunity for Ugarte-Carral to sharpen her management skills, and she’s

Jean-Paul El Tom, Baba’s Place

certainly risen to the challenge.

The director of flavour of Baba’s Place traded a career in engineering for the

Adam Wolfers, Gerard’s Bistro

kitchen, and the end result was the creation

It’s been almost two years since Adam Wolfers left Sydney

of a venue that’s unlike any other. Jean-Paul

for the warmer climes of Brisbane, and the Executive Chef

El Tom worked alongside chefs including

of Gerard’s Bistro has certainly played a key role in the

Butter’s Julian Cincotta and Fish Shops’

city’s booming dining scene. Wolfers’ culinary approach

Joel Bennetts before launching an under-

sees the chef honing the restaurant’s roots in the Middle

the-radar pop-up. Baba’s Place is now up

East and the Maghreb while calling on his own culinary

and running in Sydney’s Marrickville with a

experiences with Jewish and Hungarian cookery. The

menu that pays homage to the ‘suburban’

kitchen has a DIY approach and makes everything from

food the team grew up with. It’s hard to

labne to its signature wood-fired bagels in-house.

pin down a particular cuisine, but dishes can be linked to Lebanese, Greek, Chinese and Macedonian traditions. You can’t put Baba’s in a box, and that’s what makes it so great (plus the plastic-clad tablecloths).

Shirley Yeung, Foxtrot Unicorn Shirley Yeung is the bar manager of Foxtrot Unicorn Bar in Perth and the co-founder of Mix Haus, a not-forprofit that supports women in hospitality. Yeung started mixing drinks in 2015 and has gone on to become a notable figure in the bartending industry, making the Drinks World Top 25 Bartenders list and

Matt Whiley, ReBartender Matt Whiley brought his award-winning London bar Scout to Sydney’s Dolphin Hotel in 2019 and decided to stick around. Whiley recently

being named the West Australian Bartender of the Year. Among her years of training and experience, Yeung has been an advocate for a safe and inclusive bar industry, which is intrinsic to her management style. Her work with Mix Haus alongside fellow Bartenders Pippa Canavan and Reid Gunter aims to educate and train women looking to join the industry.

opened Re- in South Eveleigh, with the bar aiming to produce as close to zero waste as possible. The bartender’s seasonal outlook sees drinks made from locally sourced fruits and vegetables that would typically be thrown away. Collaboration and conscious fine drinking is the name of the game for Whiley, who works alongside his team to push past barriers and offer a refined drinking experience that makes you think twice about waste.

32 | Hospitality

Mitch Westwood, Westwood Chef Mitch Westwood delved into business early as the coowner of Tony’s Pizza and Pasta in Jannali before heading into the kitchens of pizza-centric venues CicciaBella and Bella Brutta. Last year, he opened Westwood in Sydney’s Newtown. The no-frills venue sees chef team Jack Owe and Westwood churn out some of the city’s most in-demand pizzas (hi, garlic and honey). The eatery has fast become the go-to for locals and diners from afar, but it’s a good idea to pre-order in advance to avoid any disappointment. Thank us later.

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FEATURE // 2022 trends

Photography by Nikki To

Future thinking Handpicked food and beverage trends for the year to come. WORDS Annabelle Cloros and Aristine Dobson

FORECASTING ISN’T ALWAYS easy,

seeking out permanent spaces for their

tackled. But the sector is now moving

Sixpenny in Sydney’s Inner West is scoping

especially after the year the industry has into 2022 with confidence and certainty.

Past months have shown us customers are

looking to connect with businesses and the people behind them more than ever.

Dining experiences that veer off from the

norm are also in demand along with a more casual offering; think bottled and packaged things to go. Technology will of course

play a critical role in streamlining day-today operations, and a brand’s presence

will extend beyond a physical venue as

pivot concepts. Word on the street is

2022 is all about buying it and supporting local instead.

out a full-time venue for the General Store

Newsletters

from crepe cakes and tortes to egg sambos.

leave a venue isn’t easy, so how do you

pop-up, which saw chefs create everything A bakery concept allows venues that

offer a certain experience to reach a wider market. While many diners are happy to

spend their time and money at restaurants, some would rather keep it casual and

grab a pastry to go. Operators can catch

’em all by running multiple concepts with

Connecting with customers once they

maintain a link to reel them back in? Write a newsletter! Patrons are increasingly

curious about the story behind a business, and it’s not always easy to convey the

big picture through an Instagram post or during a busy service.

There are multiple content pillars a

different price points.

venue can cover from newsworthy updates

establishing one-to-one rapport.

reignited an interest in learning and

how-to videos, recommendations and mini

to hit it big in 2022 — read on to find out

Owner-Operator Flavio Carnevale and his

newsletters become the go-to medium for Hospitality has curated 10 trends tipped

what the future may hold ...

Bakery spin-offs Recent months have proven consumers are big fans of bake sales — especially when a

team of chefs are behind them. The bakery spin-off has been one of the silver linings of the pandemic, with many operators 34 | Hospitality

For some venues, a bake sale has

discovery. At Marta in Rushcutters Bay,

such as the launch of a menu to recipes, profiles on team members.

Newsletters also provide a window to

team have focused on producing lesser-

capture valuable customer information by

and maritozzi. While the Roman restaurant

special events or launches. Gelato Messina

known Italian pastries such as sfogliatelle has now reverted back to dine in, the bakery is now a permanent fixture to

the Marta brand, changing the way the business operates for the better.

Making your own sourdough is so 2020:

offering an incentive such as first dibbs on nails this approach by teasing limited

product releases on Instagram that are

only available to newsletter subscribers. Customers need to sign up if they want

in, and the product allocation is usually

FEATURE // 2022 trends

exhausted by the database before it

train and working with content agencies

thinking twice about investing in uniforms

The end result is a healthy and growing

themselves for a straight-from-the-source

and represent their brand. It can be as

becomes available to non-subscribers. subscriber list, which can be used to communicate with customers about multiple topics.

Don’t hesitate to add a tick box to your

booking form asking customers to opt in

to produce them or giving it a go

touch. The main thing to remember is that it doesn’t have to be perfect — nobody is a jack of all trades, and customers aren’t expecting a novel.

for the newsletter when they’re securing a

Uniforms

with less than 10,000 followers to add

design and a stellar menu, but has the

table. Instagram has also allowed accounts

Everyone enjoys a venue with a slick

links to stories, meaning you can rally your

same attention to detail been extended

social media audience to connect further with your brand.

We’re predicting the next year will see

venues jumping on board the newsletter

to staff uniforms? A customer’s first

experience when they step into a venue is usually with a staff member, and an increasing number of businesses are

that are comfortable for staff to wear

simple as providing a branded apron or as elaborate as a head-to-toe look depending on budget.

Before Momofuku Seiobo closed its

doors, the entire team wore tie-dyed

uniforms, which eliminated any separation between front and back of house. Neil

Perry’s Margaret not only opened with a picturesque interior, but with a team decked out in aprons in the venue’s signature terracotta-ish colourway.

Whether it’s a formal or casual uniform,

materials play a vital role in wear-ability and longevity, too. Linens and cottons

not only look modern, but are also more

pleasant for staff to wear for long periods of time. This also extends to footwear. White sneakers are a comfortable and

classic option to wear on the floor, but

we’re thinking personalised Crocs could be big in the kitchen next year.

Streamlined tech We all spend way too many hours in

front of screens in our personal lives and the same can be said for the business

environment. Integrated POS systems

are a time and space saver all operators

need to switch to if they haven’t already. People management is one of the most

challenging aspects of running a business

in an industry with high staff turnover and a large casual workforce.

The ability to keep track of rostering,

timesheets, payroll, reports and news

within one intuitive platform can save you

or your admin team hours. Most platforms December 2021 | 35

FEATURE // 2022 trends have useful tools to help grow your

In an industry with a serious food

business such as sales forecasts based

waste problem, compact venues often

critical workplace changes such as

The approach enables chefs and

on data. They also keep track of

wages, which are a must to ensure compliance in an industry that has struggled with underpayments. It’s also a good idea to roll

takeaway and delivery platforms

forgo à la carte and offer a set menu. operators to prepare in advance and order exactly what they need rather than what they might need to have on hand.

A set menu also provides more

into one system, too. Most venues

room to experiment and encourages

and multiple screens leave room

advantage of what’s abundant and

work with a number of partners

for errors such as missed sales or

cancelled orders. A jumble of screens also doesn’t look good at a front-ofhouse stand or in the kitchen. Pare it back and enjoy the benefits of simplification.

chefs to create dishes that take

available that week. It’s no secret

seasonal produce is cheaper, and the added bonus is customers are more

inclined to return to a venue with a dining experience that’s always on the move.

Small venues

Merchandise

Tiny but mighty is the mantra going

For a time, product lines were the

an opportunity for restaurateurs

brands, but cafés and restaurants

forward. Pocket-sized spaces provide to launch businesses on a smaller scale and decrease the amount of

risk involved with opening a venue. There are many perks that come

with running such a space, from the number of staff required to creative control and lower overheads.

Brisbane’s Joy is constantly booked

out and sees 10 guests dine at the restaurant at a time. In omakase-

crazy Sydney, a number of concepts seat around the same number of

diners, with bookings often released months in advance. The odd

cancellation is advertised on social media, but they’re snapped up in

minutes, proving the tenacity of the customer base. 36 | Hospitality

domain of breweries and retail

have changed the landscape for

good. Condiments, bottled cocktails

and apparel have proven their worth in recent times, especially during

state lockdowns when venues were

restricted to takeaway and delivery.

The benefits extend beyond making some extra revenue. Ferments and pickles are a good way to reduce

waste and can be incorporated on the menu, too. Tote bags, T-shirts, hats and cups are evergreen and can be

sold in-venue in a dedicated area as well as on your website and social media platforms.

Merchandise with a logo,

catchphrase and vital information, such as location, is a great way to

Joy restaurant

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FEATURE // 2022 trends spread the word about your brand wherever the person wearing it happens to venture. Small

Talk is one business that nails the merchandise

brief. Shirts depicting its signature doughnut in illustrative form have been spotted not just in Sydney but as far as Byron Bay.

Low and non-alcoholic beverages The market has made much progress when it comes to non-alcoholic and low-ABV

beverages, moving far beyond juice and sugarheavy options. Founder of Project Ambrose

Consultancy Ambrose Chiang attributes the shift to a more health-conscious consumer base. “The low- and no-alcohol movement brought forward

precision should be employed into

non-alcoholic beverage sales across the world

and fermented drinks.”

by the wellness phenomenon [has] accelerated over the past two years,” says Chiang, who is

other beverages, too, like tea, coffee

based in Hong Kong.

Playlists

fanfare and experienced near-constant

of audio sharing and streaming apps means a

Zero-alcohol beers have launched to much

demand. Independent brewers Heaps Normal took the Australian market by storm with the release of the hoppy and non-alcoholic Quiet XPA. Chiang names Drink’in the Sun from

Mikkeller Brewery as his go-to and believes these products provide a balance between flavour and conscious drinking.

With a range of zero- or low-alcohol options

from spirits to seltzers hitting the shelves,

Music in venues is nothing new, but the boom customer can take a restaurant’s playlist home with them. From slow jazz to classic hip-hop,

communicating through music is a big part of

branding and the dining experience. Music not only creates atmosphere, but conveys what a

venue really stands for. At Butter, Sydney’s palace of fried chicken, sneakers and Champagne, the soundtrack is pure hip-hop and rap.

While many venues offered takeaway during

the non-alcoholic movement is well and truly

lockdown, replicating the restaurant experience

excites me so much when a sommelier’s mind

helped. Restaurant Hubert in Sydney’s CBD

underway, and venues should get involved. “It is focused on non-alcoholic beverages,” says

Chiang. “All that sensory training and flavour 38 | Hospitality

proved a challenge, but curated playlists definitely provided a QR code in their to-go meal boxes that directed customers to the venue’s jazz playlist.

www.compostconn ect.org

FEATURE // 2022 trends Music can also offer an opportunity

Secret menus

to connect with your customer base and

Secret menus were first popularised by

Instagram followers for recommendations to

Out Burger as a tool to offer tailored and

collaborate. Maíz Mexican Street Food asked create a cohesive playlist that’s now live.

How-to video tutorials Demonstrating how to replicate a dish

or create a signature drink to a tee is not commonplace in the industry, but things

are beginning to shift. Most venues have a social media presence, but photos can

only get you so far. Publishing recipes and how-to videos is not only beneficial from

an engagement point of view, but enables

you to share your food and beverage with an audience from afar.

Behind-the-scenes content is candid and

upfront, plus it’s a helpful tool in building community among the dining public.

Whether it’s a multi-photo step-by-step

Instagram post, a reel on how to make a Negroni or a longer video on something more complex, such as pastry making,

visual content showcases the skills of your staff and demonstrates what’s available at your venue beyond reading about it.

Continental Deli posted a tutorial on

Instagram stories showing people how to

plate up the Flan in a Can. While it seems

simple, the video provided useful tips and tricks to get the sweet treat out of the can

in optimum condition. It’s not as easy as it

looks, and we’re sure the video went a long way to saving the integrity of a lot of flans. 40 | Hospitality

mega brands such as Starbucks and In-Nlimited products to customers looking

elsewhere. It’s also an opportunity for bar

staff to open the cellar and offer a taste of rare spirits or wines. The whole idea is to generate a sense of exclusivity.

When Dylan Cashman’s The Blue Door

for something different. Now, secret

opened this year, there was an added

environment. A hidden menu enables

tacked on to the wine selection, which is

menus are emerging in a restaurant

venues to experiment with dishes or drinks that might not fit the current offering,

but appeal to customers willing to order outside the box. For example, an Italian

restaurant could list a spicy margarita — it doesn’t work in a food pairing sense,

but the drink is having a major moment

Secret Sips menu of vintage Champagnes curated by Angelica Nohra. While offering additional items to a core menu comes

with risks, such as keeping stock on hand for an item that may not be ordered, it

does provide a window to offer something that’s one of a kind and alter the dining experience for the better. ■

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VIDEO // Leonards Bar & Bistro

Croque monsieur Executive Chef Enda Gaffey creates an ultra-luxe sandwich. LEONARDS BAR & Bistro in Brisbane has fast

sliced for service. The foundational element of

brown. To finish, Gaffey grates extra cheese

become known for its opulent take on the

a croque monsieur is of course the sourdough,

on top and serves with Desiree potato crisps

croque monsieur. The classic French sandwich

which is made in-house using a starter that’s

and a green salad. ■

sees ham, a number of cheeses, béchamel and

over 100 years old. Leonards cold ferment the

mustard placed in between two sourdough

dough for up to four days for optimum results.

slices before it’s toasted until golden. At Leonards, Executive Chef Enda Gaffey

To assemble the sandwich, Gaffey slathers two slices of sourdough in French butter, Dijon

Scan the

says the croque monsieur is definitely a meal

and Béchamel with parmesan before adding

QR code to

you want to enjoy at the restaurant. “You

thick slices of ham. The ingredients are then

watch the

don’t want to eat this going down the street

covered with grated aged cheddar and

masterclass

in a suit and tie,” explains Gaffey.

Gruyère before being topped with chives. “It’s

The chef begins the process with a pickled pork leg that’s sous vide over two days at 80 degrees Celsius. The ham is then baked in honey and aromatics such as cloves before it’s

44 | Hospitality

not just salt, sweet and smoke; it’s more about the flavour of the pig,” says Gaffey. The sandwich is placed in a hot frypan with butter and cooked until each side is golden

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46 | Hospitality

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Lulu’s Remedy

Lulu’s Remedy

I HAVE PRETTY much done everything in the hospitality industry. I’ve been a sandwich hand, a line cook and worked in front of

house. The journey [led me to have] the confidence in myself to put out something I made and is reflective of who I am.

I’m Italian, so chilli oils are very much an Italian flavour

for me, even though I’m using Mexican chillis. I get the chillis from Mexico City Foods, which is a family-run business that

imports the chillis from Mexico. The oil is a New South Walesgrown and pressed canola oil; It’s the cleanest canola oil I’ve ever tasted. It’s called Azure canola oil and I get it from Two

Owner Monica Luppi on starting a condiment line and the importance of community collaboration.

Providores in Marrickville.

PHOTOGRAPHY Lorraine Elliot and James Wallis

not true; there is an oil for every purpose. I’ve tried using olive

A lot of people are like “Oh, you don’t use olive oil?”

Somehow, canola oil is seen as cheaper or less quality, but it’s

oil, but it is too bitter for this. It’s so strong you lose the flavour

of the chillis. It is also less versatile because you can’t really use it for high heat. If you have a clean oil, it’s a vehicle for flavour. I started out doing different pop-ups at breweries under

the name Lulu’s and I had a short stint at Midnight Special in

Newtown, Sydney. I had been making the basic version of the chilli oil at one of my Lulu’s Goes Italian pop-ups and people really liked it.

When lockdown first hit, Sample Coffee had to adapt and

became a grocery store, so I asked them, “Would it be cool if 48 | Hospitality

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Lulu’s Remedy

The Best Mates

Azure canola oil is

Christmas pack

locally made in

retails for $45

New South Wales

Lulu’s uses

Maaate is a tomato-

four different

and molasses-based

types of

BBQ marinade and

Mexican chillis

dipping sauce

I put something on your shelf?” and they said yes. A

friend of mine who liked to draw made a label for me. Chilli oil is pretty much all I’m doing. I have three

different types now: original, anchovy chilli and ʼnduja chilli. I am a one-woman company and I can really

only keep up with that right now. I want to keep it that way because I don’t see a reason to rush things when you want to make sure everything you put out is a

reflection of you. I don’t want to put products out just to put them out.

I’ve connected with other chefs who have started

condiment or other smallgoods businesses during

lockdown. [Iʼve formed] amazing relationships with

people who have their own journeys and opened up

their own little shops, but [I’ve also connected with]

quite a few chefs. Claire from Bloodwood in Newtown used the oil on her menu when it first came out.

Andrea Sonnante from Sagra, Alex Wong from Lana and Hai Le are doing a project called Mannaggia a Trois and are using my ʼnduja oil.

One of my favourite people in the condiment biz,

Gaspar Tse, has a business called Hotluck Snack

Club. He was a chef at 10 William Street and he’s

currently doing a pop-up at the Wildflower brewery. We connected last year and we made a product together which was called Maaate sauce, it was kind of like a BBQ dipping sauce. It’s been wonderful because not only did we produce something together, but we’ve

really supported each other with the ups and downs of learning a new kind of business.

For Christmas, I’m doing a hamper with Gaspar,

Zaal from Magic Mouth Jerky and Eun Hee An, a

Korean chef who makes all sorts of amazing Korean products for her brand Moon Mart. We’re doing

this together because we’ve connected through this community and are giving each other support. It’s

really fostering the spirit of collaboration instead of competing with each other. 50 | Hospitality

■

“If you have a clean oil, it is a vehicle for flavour.”

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Hospitality December 2021

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5 MINUTES WITH... Lulu’s Remedy

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