Hospitality June 2018

NO.744 JUNE 2018

Front of mind

CHANGING THE WAY WE THINK ABOUT FRONT OF HOUSE

Clap back

HOW TO DEAL WITH ONLINE REVIEWS

Golden Century ONE-ON-ONE WITH THE FOUNDERS OF THE SYDNEY INSTITUTION

Power to the plants WHY MEAT-FREE MENUS ARE THE FUTURE OF DINING

Get more For the latest hospitality news, get our free e-newsletter at: hospitalitymagazine.com.au

OPENINGS • TRENDS • TECH • LEGISLATION • JOBS

Ed’s note

June 6

Contents 4 In focus

6 Openings 7 Flavour of the month 8 Business profile 12 Column 14 Drinks 18 Trends 20 Best practice 22 Meat-free menus

T

here was a time when non-meat eaters were forced to order from the sides list, typically bound to a choice of fries, stodgy pasta or lifeless veg. But over the past few years, there’s been a new wave of chefs who are shining a light on vegetables over meat.

We’re incredibly fortunate to live in a country that produces a bounty of fruit and vegetables, so it makes sense to make use of what we’ve got.

Plus, having a few veg-driven dishes is complementary to your bottom line and opens up your venue to a wider range of customers. Read all about the rise of meat-free menus on page 22 with Bodhi Restaurant, O Bar and Dining, Priscillas and Smith & Daughters.

If you’re a Sydneysider, chances are you’ve dined at the institution that is Golden Century. We interview owners Eric and Linda Wong about the impact of Sydney’s lockout laws, visa restrictions and the power of family values.

In other news, tickets are now on sale for Hospitality magazine’s Restaurant Leaders Summit which will be held on 30 July at the Park Hyatt Hotel in Melbourne. Speakers including Chris Lucas, Morgan McGlone, Melissa Leong and Scott Pickett will discuss the industry’s most pressing issues, covering everything from mental health and wellbeing to retaining staff and creating unforgettable venues.

Discover the full program and register at restaurantleaders.com.au. Early bird tickets are on sale for $249 + GST until 30 June, so snap to it!

Annabelle Cloros Editor

28 Dealing with online reviews

34

42

32 Refrigeration 34 Front of house

14

40 Shelf space 41 Diary 42 5 minutes with …

18

28 22

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June 2018 Hospitality 3

in focus

FOOD FIGHT A study has found older customers are more likely to send food back than their younger counterparts.

M

illennials are typically labelled as outspoken, avocadoguzzling consumers, but research from Technomic’s Generational Consumer Trend Report has revealed they cringe when it comes to sending a meal back to the kitchen.

The report found 61 per cent of customers over the age of 55 would have no issues returning a plate of food compared to 18- to 34-year-olds, with 52 per cent admitting they would feel uncomfortable returning food. Interestingly,

TOP REASONS FOR SENDING

FOOD BACK TO THE

kitchen 4 Hospitality June 2018

15 per cent of the younger age group said they would never send food back, no matter the circumstances.

The top reasons for sending dishes back include being served an incorrect meal, undercooked food, unclean plates and food served with a hair.

Younger customers have a steep reputation of being demanding and opinionated, however the report indicates older consumers have no problem voicing their concerns when it comes to food that fails to meet expectations. n

85

%

Undercooked food

82

Served the wrong meal Food had hair in it

81%

%

Unclean plate

80%

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Openings The latest venues to swing open their doors in Australia’s foodservice scene.

1

Tipico

1

Windsor, Melbourne Australian ingredients and Italian flavours combine in Andrea Da Como and Mark Scalisi’s debut venue, Tipico.

The restaurant features signature dishes including spaghetti chitarra with vongole, mussels and calamari and tigella with prosciutto and squacquerone cheese from head chef Domenico De Marco. The wine list will include Australian and Italian varieties along with a house Negroni and a range of spritz options.

2

The Collaroy

Collaroy, Sydney The Collaroy has reopened after Merivale acquired the Northern Beaches pub in August last year. The space is spread across two levels, with the ground floor serving up a revolving offering of breakfast, lunch, evening snacks and dinner. A restaurant and two bars are located on the top level where diners can order burgers off the bar menu or enjoy wood-fired pizza from Vincenzo Biondini.

3

2

3

Alter Dining

Windsor, Melbourne Commune Group has replaced BKK with Alter Dining; a venue that focuses on the guest dining experience rather than turning over tables. Head chef Sean Judd has designed a modern Australian menu with highlights including whipped cod with chili chicken skin crumble; quail skewer with blood plum sauce and spiced salt and Northern Thai-style sausage with grilled eggplant purée, smoked fish sauce and pickled green tomato.

4

Carbòn

Bondi, Sydney The team behind Bondi eatery Taqiza have expanded their horizons with the opening of Carbòn. The menu revolves around wood-fired dishes using traditional Latin American techniques. Dishes are designed to share and diners are encouraged to design their own tacos, with suckling pig and lamb shoulder on offer. Cocktails include the Bondi Sunset with mescal, elderflower liqueur, lime juice and mandarin along with Oaxacan Pink Lady with mescal, brandy, lemon juice, agave syrup and aquafaba.

5

4

Side Room

Bondi, Sydney The team behind Potts Point café Room Ten and Fishbowl have expanded their offering with the opening of Side Room in Bondi. The menu covers sandwiches, whole bowls, native smoothies and coffee courtesy of Mecca.

Menu highlights include the OG Açai with Pic’s peanut butter and a spiced lamb whole bowl with a tabouli mix of cucumber, parsley, tomato and coriander with a sumac and yoghurt dressing.

5 6 Hospitality June 2018

Flavour of the month Wattle seed has been springing up on a number of menus in recent years, with the versatile Australian ingredient covering sweet and savoury dishes.

Wattle seed A

mainstay in the diet of Indigenous Australians for more than 40,000 years, wattle seed is now used by many chefs to enhance flavours in a variety of recipes.

HISTORY Wattle seed has the ability to withstand tough weather conditions, so indigenous communities used it as a valuable source of protein and carbohydrates when other food sources were scarce. Women would collect the ripe pods and parch the seeds with fire before grinding them to a flour which was mixed with water and made into cakes. The most popular species of wattle seed in the food industry is Acacia victoriae, or elegant wattle, which is found throughout the Central Desert Region, South Australia, Western Australia and New South Wales.

FLAVOUR PROFILE Wattle seed is described as having an aroma of toasted coffee grounds, sweet spice, raisin and chocolate. Roasting the seed brings out a nutty, coffee flavour with a slight bitterness.

GROWING AND HARVESTING Elegant wattle prefers hot, low-rainfall areas and is a resilient and adaptable species due to being salt- and drought-tolerant. Wild harvest remains a key

source of supply, with many Aboriginal women from communities across South Australia and the Northern Territory participating in the industry.

Harvesting occurs during summer months and the seeds are collected by hitting the trees with sticks or using mechanical tree shakers. The seed is then separated from the twigs and leaves, before threshing and sieving to prepare it for commercial sale. The seed has a shelf-life of up to 10 years, which helps to even out supply as yields can vary considerably depending on environmental conditions.

FOOD USES Wattle seed is usually roasted and can be ground or sold whole.

It’s a versatile ingredient that can be used in a variety of sweet and savoury dishes, from ice cream and cakes to casseroles and curries.

Some distributors market the roasted seeds as a caffeine-free coffee alternative and wattle seed lattes and cappuccinos are popping up on menus around the country. The extracted essence from the roasted wattle seed is also used as a flavour enhancer in products such as sauces, balsamic vinegar and beer. Wattle seed has a low-glycemic index, high levels of protein and is a good source of magnesium, zinc, calcium, iron and selenium.

Information courtesy of Rural Industries Research and Development Corporation and Australian Native Food and Botanicals. n June 2018 Hospitality 7

business profile

Sliced live abalone steamboat

Midas touch G

Golden Century is a Sydney institution that has been in business for almost 30 years. Here, we talk to owners Eric and Linda and their son Billy about the impact of Sydney lockout laws on restaurants, losing chefs due to visa constraints and why they haven’t reached the pinnacle of success just yet. By Annabelle Cloros.

olden Century is a haunt for many things — tanks of live seafood, David Chang, cuisine that prides itself on consistency, and of course, the many chefs that trickle in for supper after service.

Eric and Linda Wong opened the restaurant on Sussex Street in 1990 and are proud of Golden Century’s multi-generational appeal.

Most Sydneysiders have enjoyed a meal at the venue, or at least heard stories about their legendary XO pippies — which we can report are bloody delicious.

But Golden Century didn’t reach its cult-like status without the grit and determination of Eric and Linda, who still work seven days a week.

LEADING FROM THE TOP The importance of a present management team at a venue cannot be underestimated, and staff are often more receptive and engaged if they see the top dog completing the same tasks as them, such as clearing tables or interacting with customers.

8 Hospitality June 2018

“When our staff see the boss, they know [we] still have to work and look after customers,” says Eric. “One time, someone asked Linda how many days she worked and she responded with eight.”

While many owners look forward to the day they can step back from day-to-day operations, Eric and Linda still get as much enjoyment running the business in 2018 as they did in 1990. Striving to be better is an admirable quality to have, and the Wongs still think Golden Century hasn’t hit the big time — at least from their perspective.

“I don’t think we’re successful yet,” says Eric. “Some of my relatives say, ‘Eric, you’re so successful already — why are you still working every day?’ And I say, ‘Because I love Golden Century — I love my job and I enjoy work.”

Eric also cites another perk of the job — the food. “Everyone has to work hard, get money and then go to Golden Century for a meal. But for me, I’m lucky because I can enjoy a meal and still keep my money,” he laughs.

FAMILY VALUES Family businesses form a large part of Australia’s professional landscape, and there’s often a deeper level of care teamed with a common goal to succeed. Family values are very much present at Golden Century and are shared between management and staff alike.

“Some of my staff have worked here since day one and there are more than 30 employees who have worked here for over 15 years; they all say Golden Century is a family,” says Eric. “When you have a business, capital is essential, but the team is just as important.”

STAFFING AND VISA CHALLENGES Golden Century requires a hefty workforce thanks to their extensive operating hours from 12 noon to 4am. The restaurant currently employs around 140 staff — including full-time, casual and part-time workers — and are constantly on the lookout for more people, but admit they are struggling to recruit Australian workers.

business profile

Golden Century employs just two workers on the defunct 457 visa (now TSS visa) who previously worked at high-end venues in Hong Kong, and the Wongs feel Australian restaurants are missing out on talented overseas chefs due to strict visa requirements, citing high-level English tests as the root cause of many failed applications.

“We found some chefs from Hong Kong who were willing to come to Australia, but we weren’t able to bring them over because of the English language requirements,” says Billy, who is director of The Century at The Star.

“You’re stuck in a dilemma where the best chefs are in Hong Kong and they’re good at what they do, but they’re not good at English.

When you’re trying to find someone who is good at what they do, why does English become such an important factor?”

Eric and Linda are originally from Hong Kong and employ a number of Mandarin-speaking employees. Linda believes it’s not necessary for chefs to speak fluent English if they can communicate with staff in their native language. “I don’t think English is the most important thing for them,” she says. “They can speak Chinese in the kitchen to the workers and control everyone in the kitchen. In Hong Kong, they don’t need to speak English, and if they speak English, they’re usually working in the dining area and not in the kitchen.”

On the flip side, a number of western chefs work in Asian countries such as Thailand and Hong Kong and are not required to speak the language to operate their businesses. “Food is a universal language, so you’re limiting yourself when you could potentially bring in a lot of skills,” says Billy. “You’re losing a lot of talent rather than bringing it in.”

Authenticity is also brought into question if venues aren’t able to bring chefs into Australia who specialise in their cuisine. “You’re trying to continue the authenticity, but if we can’t produce food at an international level, there’s a big disconnect,” says Billy. “We want to attract more visitors from overseas and let the locals have high-standard Chinese food,” adds Eric.

“It’s really helpful when you can employ staff from Hong Kong, China, Singapore or Macau.”

IMPACT OF SYDNEY LOCKOUT LAWS Hospitality workers aren’t the only patrons who dine outside of conventional mealtimes, and revelers in need of a latenight feed formed a core part of Golden Century’s customer base in the early hours of the morning. But when the lockout laws were passed in 2014, the levels of Sydneysiders spending time in bars and clubs rapidly dwindled, which has in turn affected businesses in the CBD.

“Some of my staff have worked here since day one and there are more than 30 employees who have worked here for over 15 years; they all say Golden Century is a family.”

– Eric Wong

XO pippies

June 2018 Hospitality 9

business profile

Salt and pepper mud crab

“People finish work late and want to go to the bar and start at 11pm, but you have to stop at 1:30am?” says Linda. “Customers are always complaining about coming to the city now and say they don’t know where to go because it’s always blocked with construction; it’s not good for city life.”

Eric recently attended a meeting with the City of Sydney and says they are currently reviewing rules that control late-night trading in the city for retail outlets, bars, entertainment venues and restaurants.

“The council understands how to make night life better,” says Eric. “We can still sell alcohol until 3am because our licence is till 4am, but we are not the only venue in the area — we want the whole area to be busy so we can attract more customers. I say, ‘Back to normal, don’t make too many laws’.”

FORWARD THINKING Devotees may know Golden Century used to have a noodle bar in Star City which was open from the late ’90s until 2008 called City Noodle. When the complex was refurbished, City Noodle was demolished, but the group was given the opportunity to open a signature Chinese dining restaurant in 2012. “We opened The Century in 2012 and it worked really well because they used to send a lot of customers to Golden Century, so it made sense for them to have a Golden Centuryrelated restaurant on-site,” says Billy.

While there are no immediate plans for expansion, shifting into cruise mode isn’t an option for the Wong family. “We will embrace opportunities as they come,” says Billy, “but I don’t think Mum and Dad will ever retire.” n 10 Hospitality June 2018

“We found some chefs from Hong Kong who were willing to come to Australia, but we weren’t able to bring them over because of the English language requirements.” – Billy Wong Eric and Linda Wong

column

Homegrown Alla Wolf-Tasker AM makes a case for developing a uniquely Australian cuisine that stands strong against global trends.

A

s a chef, considering how much we now have to work with and how unfettered we are by traditions, is it easier to be creative than it used

to be?

There’s never been much culinary tradition to constrain us. But it was with the post-World War II migrants that multiculturalism began to significantly affect our knowledge of food and our readiness to absorb.

Given our rapidly expanding lexicon of culinary terms, great produce, growing pantry of available multicultural ingredients, the lack of restriction and some amazing talent — it should be easier to be creative nowadays, right?

Why is it that we often seem to be so predictably bound to modern global culinary trends and an almost universal sameness of approach? Why do we feel the need to be taught what to do in our own backyard by chefs who are from a different place and culture? And why are fads which have little relevance to our own sense of place taken up by so many?

While we may have avidly consumed new culinary information from across the globe in the past, it was only intermittently available. We just got on with things, learning and developing a personal style that was recognised as modern Australian. Among the best practitioners it came with originality and a real connection to who we are.

Thanks to social media platforms, we see fads and even entire dishes taken up, but 12 Hospitality June 2018

their relevance to us is often questionable.

Global fads sweep our culinary landscape accompanied by breathless media reportage.

The rapid speed of knowledge transfer creates a fair bit of culinary FOMO among the media and us.

It’s difficult to stand back and extract what might be of interest or relevance rather than just buy into it wholly. Is there a remnant of culinary cringe that makes original and homegrown somehow not as ‘cool’ as something foreign with a global listing?

Besides, when it seems like the rest of the world is ‘into it’ – who wants to be left out? If one doesn’t already have a strongly developed personal conviction or ethos, who is one to argue? For relatively new young practitioners of our craft, the prolonged take up of one fad after another can be a waste of personal potential and may doom originality. I’ve seen the road back take at least a decade.

When I reflect on some of the greatest chefs and cooks I’ve had the pleasure to work with, they’ve all developed a strong personal direction, stayed current through maintaining awareness of contemporary culinary thinking and then perfected, perfected, perfected what they did.

With no strong singular global trend currently apparent, I’m sensing the facilitation of a robust chorus of new and individual Australian voices with magic results. Now that’s a trend I’d like to see continue. Long may it reign. n

When I reflect on some of the greatest chefs and cooks I’ve had the pleasure to work with, they’ve all developed a strong personal direction, stayed current through maintaining awareness of contemporary culinary thinking and then perfected ... what they did.

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drinks

Agave

– Beyond Tequila

A

gave spirits have been increasing in popularity across the country in recent years, thanks — in part — to cocktail bartenders and the bartending community embracing Mexico’s native spirit. More and more bartenders are reaching for agave-based spirits like tequila and mezcal to drive innovative flavour combinations and push the public’s perception of agave spirits.

Consumers have also been drawn to agave spirits by passionate bartenders extolling its many virtues. Much like the movement that brought interest to classic cocktails, bartenders including David Robinson from Hot Tamale in Darwin are seeing customers “that now have some decent knowledge of agave cocktail spirits and are wanting to know more”. Jamie Passmore from Perth’s Caballitos agrees, saying it’s “all about educating people on quality spirits and how to appreciate them”.

A thirst for knowledge has seen an explosion of agave-focused bars open up across the country, with venues pushing 14 Hospitality June 2018

past tequila and mezcal’s previously dubious reputation to champion the craft and care that go into the production of quality agave spirits.

GET CREATIVE It’s all about matching the right agave spirit to the right cocktail. “Tequila displays a massive variety of flavours and aromas due to the different processes, terroir and the oak influence in aged tequila,” says Robinson. It’s exactly this wide range of flavours that excite bartenders to get creative with agave spirits.

Bartenders are also branching out into a wider world of agave spirits. “Raicilla, Bacanora and even Sotol (although not agave) will increase as people explore more,” according to Alex McDowell from de Vino Mezcal, a distributor specialising in agave spirits. This increased interest has widened the agave spirit palette available for bartenders to play around with. No longer tied to the sameness of large-scale industrial-produced tequila, there are now more options.

“With most of the agave spirits, their

Bananarama

What’s hot in the world of agave spirits in 2018?

Joe Sinagra finds out.

flavour is definitely not something you want to hide in a cocktail,” says Anneliese Grazioli from Hot Tamale. “When creating an agave spirit cocktail, you want every aspect to complement the natural tasting notes in each one.” Whether it’s a smoky, herbaceous mescal or a bright, fresh and fruity blanco tequila, there is an agave spirit out there that is perfect for almost any flavour combination.

COCKTAIL INGREDIENTS When it comes to flavours that work well with agave spirits, the list is extensive. Citrus is the classic pairing, but many bartenders like El Grotto’s Phil Weber look to Mexican food for inspiration, naming “light and spicy, acidic and earthy” as the flavour characteristics he likes to experiment with. “I also find tropical fruits such as passionfruit, mango and pineapple work well,” he says. It’s not all about fruit and acid though, according to Alex Gilmour from Tio’s Cerveceria: “Spices, coffee and cacao are delicious with both tequila and mescal”.

As with the craft cocktail explosion,

drinks

bartenders are taking classic cocktails and using them to create delicious and exciting twists for consumers. It’s the authenticity of agave spirits that bartenders are connecting with and bringing their own flair to.

“I love seeing a bar/bartender’s personality coming out through their twists on classics,” says Grazioli. It’s this connection between bartender and spirit that has sparked the passion in so many bartenders who have driven agave spirits to the fore in recent years.

Looking to Mexican food culture, bartenders are more regularly sourcing authentic Mexican ingredients for their drinks. Traditional herbs, spices and other foods offer bartenders the opportunity to bring the sense of authenticity they love in agave spirit brands to a cocktail.

One such ingredient that keeps popping up is hibiscus. Known in Mexico as Jamaica, the flower is dried and used to produce Agua de Jamaica, essentially a hibiscus tea. Traditionally, the tea is sweetened, chilled and consumed with the midday meal. Bartenders are using the tea’s tart, cranberry-like flavour to add a refreshing Mexican twist to cocktails. “It’s light and floral,” says Weber, and pairs well with tequila and mezcal.

ARTISANAL AGAVE It’s not just bartenders getting innovative when it comes to agave; agave brands themselves are also pushing for recognition with consumers. Producers are finding informed consumers wanting a return to handmade, artisanal agave products. While the market may be dominated by large brands producing on an industrial scale, smaller brands are able to carve out a place among discerning consumers. These brands are behind some great programs that aim to provide sustainability and longevity to agave spirit traditions.

While brands connect consumers with agave’s history and cultural background, there are producers bringing exciting agave products to Australian shores. Jamie Passmore has “a real passion for spirits in their rawest form”, which has got him excited by still-strength tequila – a sentiment echoed by several other bartenders.

There’s no denying the popularity of higher-proof spirits among those of us bartenders who love the higher alcohol content for its flavour-carrying abilities. Much like craft cocktails shed the neon colours of the ’80s and ’90s, agave spirits are now moving towards full acceptance as a highly regarded product. Out from the shadow of lime and salt, bartenders are delving into agave spirits’ deep, rich and historical past to create cocktails that connect the consumer with history. And as a result, the connection is fuelling an ever-growing interest in agave from consumers hungry for more. n This article originally appeared in Bars & Clubs magazine.

The New Square

“When creating an agave spirit cocktail, you want every aspect to complement the natural tasting notes in each one.”

– Anneliese Grazioli June 2018 Hospitality 15

HOSTED BY A ONE-DAY CONFERENCE AND MINI-EXPO FOR LEADING RESTAURANT AND CAFÉ OPERATORS, CHEFS AND SENIOR MANAGEMENT

8.30-9.30am

Registration (with tea and coffee)

9.30-9.35am

Introduction Ken Burgin (Profitable Hospitality) and Alex Herbert (Bird Cow Fish)

9.35-10.35am

Keynote Presentation: Cut the Noise – How to Focus for Greater Success Chris Helder (Business specialist and author)

10.35-11.05am

Staffing for Success — Nailing Recruitment, Training and Retention Hannah Green (Etta), Scott Pickett (Saint Crispin, Matilda 159 Domain), Liz Rodriguez (Grossi Restaurants)

11.05-11.35am

Morning tea

11.35-11.40am

A Note from the Editor Annabelle Cloros (Editor, Hospitality magazine)

11.40-12.05pm

Karaoke, Frozen Yoghurt and Pop-Ups — How and Why You Should Diversify Your Offering Simon Blacher (Commune Group), Peter Gunn (IDES), George Sykiotis (MAdE Establishment)

12.05-12.30pm

Boost Profitability Through Pricing and Psychological Intelligence Bertrand Jeanpierre (Simon Kucher)

12.30-1.00pm

12 Amazing Marketing Ideas to Boost Your Restaurant Business Jeanine Bribosia (The Cru), Monica Brown (Lotus Communications), John Flower (HotHouse Media and Events)

1.00-1.30pm

Reinvention and Raving Fans — Q&A with Chris Lucas (The Lucas Group)

1.30-2.30pm

Lunch

2.30-3.00pm

Old-School Operators vs Millennials — What Can we Learn from Each Other?

Carlo Grossi (Grossi Restaurants), Thi Le (Anchovy), Victor Liong, (Lee Ho Fook), Fiona Perkins (Bacash Restaurant)

3.00-3.30pm

Stories and Service – Create an Experience and Supercharge Your Alcohol Sales Loic Avril (Dinner by Heston) , Michael Madrusan (Made in the Shade Hospitality), Christian McCabe (Embla), Luke Whearty (Bunjil, Operation Dagger)

3.30-4.00pm

Speak Up — Sparking a Positive Change for Mental Health and Wellbeing in the Industry Melissa Leong (Freelance Journalist/TV Presenter), Mal Meiers (Food for Thought & R U OK? ambassador), Morgan McGlone (Belles Hot Chicken, Natural History Museum)

4.00-4.30pm

Forward Thinking — Essential Trends and Technology for 2019 Tim Domelow (OpenTable), Veronica Fil (Restaurant Lûmé), Eleena Tan (Brandworks, HWKR)

4.30-4.35pm

Closing Remarks Ken Burgin (Profitable Hospitality)

4.35-6.00pm

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trends

Rising Sun Workshop

Diverse venues Venues are expanding their offering beyond food and drink — so is it the key to bringing more customers through the door? By Brittney Levinson.

C

afés and restaurants are reaping the benefits of giving customers myriad options — whether it’s artisanal groceries or a motorcycle workshop. By blending the dining experience with a complementary offering, venues can create a unique hub that can entice a new wave of customers.

THE CONCEPT Sydney venues Bel & Brio and Rising Sun Workshop are prime examples of how diversifying your offering can add a point of difference to your business. While their venues stand alone — one an Italian eatery and marketplace, the other a workshop and Asian café — they both offer a unique experience by blending multiple concepts into one.

Bel & Brio is a sprawling venue that comprises a bar, restaurant, marketplace and cellar. The concept takes inspiration from European food halls, where the dining experience is combined with a retail offering in one space.

General manager Read Simon says Bel & 18 Hospitality June 2018

Brio is a unique addition to the Sydney suburb of Barangaroo. “We try to be different and we try to be a destination,” he says. “We are a place where you can shop, eat and drink.

Everything is here.”

The 240-seat Italian bar and restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, while Coffee & Co offers breakfast and alternative options throughout the day including beverages and Italian-style pastries.

The adjacent marketplace stocks fresh produce from the Bel & Brio farm on the New South Wales Central Coast, as well as ready-made meals and local and international pantry staples. The venue also has a cellar, which features almost 2000 wines comprising Italian, French and Australian labels.

At Newtown’s Rising Sun Workshop, the dining experience is combined with a motorcycle workshop in what director Adrian Sheather calls a “hybrid business model”. He had a vision to open a communal workshop where people could work on their bikes and stick around for a meal and a drink.

“I started wondering, ‘Why isn’t there a space where I can go use tools and hang out with friends?’” he says. “My good friend and brother-in-law Daniel Cesarano always wanted to have his own café and I always wanted to get into that space as well, so I started playing with the idea of a hybrid business model and how to make those two spaces work together.”

ATTRACTING AND ENTICING CUSTOMERS While diners pay for their bill at Bel & Brio, wait staff use it as an opportunity to encourage them to explore the marketplace.

“We have a feedback card which we give our customers, and one of the points on there is, ‘Have you visited our marketplace or our cellar?’” says Simon. “When the bill comes, we give them a piece of chocolate and take a couple of minutes [to explain the concept].”

Rising Sun Workshop offers a discount to workshop members in order to keep them at the venue for longer. “We want to be an easy space to come to, so we give our members a 10 per cent discount at the café any time.

That’s not limited at all, so they could dine or snack with us as many times as they like during the week and it just makes it easier for them to get in there and work on their bikes and not have to fork out an arm and a leg for something to eat.”

Creating a community within the venue has also helped Rising Sun Workshop build a loyal customer base. The café, headed up by chef Nick Smith, has accumulated a large following for its ramen, but in recent months has expanded its dinner offering to a panAsian menu that allows for a shared dining experience, which is often a drawcard for consumers. “We’ve made the dinner menu all about sharing because we were finding ramen is difficult to share and it was making the

Bel & Brio’s marketplace and cellar (below)

dining experience confusing and inconsistent,” says Sheather.

“We’ve gone back to what we originally wanted to do and what Nick was really passionate about, which is playing with seasonal ingredients and having dishes that rotate with the season. It’s all designed to be communal and to share — it’s something everyone can enjoy together.”

Attentive staff can be the key to retaining a good relationship with customers, in order to turn them into regulars. “Our staff are always remembering names and orders and making everyone feel welcome across the membership, and also just the Newtown locals who come and dine with us regularly,” says Sheather. “That communal vibe means our return visitation is really high as well.”

ADDED PERKS Bel & Brio’s CBD location makes it a one-stopshop for corporates, residents and tourists.

With its combined marketplace and restaurant concept, the venue has the opportunity to turn diners into retail customers and vice versa.

“We’re cross-promoting between the bar, the restaurant and the marketplace,” says Simon.

“You can buy items from our menu from the marketplace such as truffle oil, truffles or organic pasta.”

While 70 per cent of Bel & Brio’s clientele is corporate, Simon says their local residents are just as important, as they’re the customers who visit regularly. “We service our residents and stock everyday items including toothbrushes and dishwashing liquid,” says Simon.

Since Rising Sun Workshop opened in Newtown in 2014, the venue has grown a membership base of more than 300 workshop users who are also regular customers at the café. “All the people that come in to work on their bikes end up having breakfast, lunch or dinner or have a drink with their friends,” says Sheather. “It becomes not just a workspace, but a communal gathering point.”

Customers also use the café as a means to get into the workshop. “For people who want to get into the workshop, the gateway drug is to get a coffee or a meal so they can sit there and watch,” he says.

Sheather says the business model adds a unique element to the café that sets it apart from the competition. “We wanted to do something different, not for the sake of, but because we thought it could be done differently,” he says. “There’s a million cafés that open every single year in Sydney, so how do you buck the trend and not do something that’s only going to last 12 months and have some kind of longevity while staying true to who you are?”

By offering a unique experience, venues can set themselves apart from the competition and build a strong customer following that will return time and time again. n

“We try to be different and we try to be a destination.” – Read Simon

Ramen from Rising Sun Workshop

June 2018 Hospitality 19

best practice

The $20,000 instant asset write off for equipment is well worth using.

The whole cost is deductible this year instead of depreciating the cost over several years.

Tax deductions you need to know about

30 June is approaching. Here, some potential savings you may not have thought of, writes Ken Burgin.

T

here are a host of tax savings that might be possible before the end of the financial year, so make sure you speak with your accountant before

tax time.

DONATIONS Charitable contributions must be justified by a receipt from a registered charity. Donations to sporting groups and schools are usually a marketing or advertising expense as they don’t have charitable status. If you buy a ticket in a charity auction and win a trip to the Gold Coast, that’s also unlikely to be deductible.

SELF-EDUCATION Any educational ventures can be claimed as a personal expense if it’s directly connected to your work such as a pastry chef completing a chocolate course or a manager completing a leadership certificate.

BUSINESS VEHICLES All vehicles have depreciation and running expenses. There are different ways to claim motor vehicle deductions for a vehicle that’s part-private and part-business use. A logbook should be used to establish the proportions.

Find out which method gives you the best tax savings.

MOVE PURCHASES Can you bring forward any purchases planned 20 Hospitality June 2018

for the next few months to get the deduction this year rather than next? If you use ‘accrual’ accounting, that means you need the invoice dated before 30 June. If you use ‘cash-based’ accounting, you must make the payment before that date.

INSTANT ASSET WRITE-OFF The $20,000 instant asset write-off for equipment is well worth using. The whole cost is deductible this year instead of depreciating the cost over several years.

FITOUT AND FITTINGS Are you claiming the maximum depreciation for fitout and fittings? Lights, seats, benches, stoves and shelving can all be depreciated.

If you’ve taken over a business or don’t have good records, it’s well worth getting a quantity surveyor to work out the value of what you have — my accountant says she’s never seen one of these surveys that hasn’t paid for itself many times in the first year! If you only paid a small amount for equipment as part of the purchase price for a business, the surveyor may establish it’s worth more than this and give you a new and possibly higher value to use for depreciation.

CHECK YOUR STOCK AND EQUIPMENT Any out-of-date liquor? If it’s never going to be used (even for cooking), there may be

a case to write down the value to zero. Be ready to justify what you’ve done, but it’s worth checking. What about old equipment in your storeroom? You can probably write off the depreciated value of that microwave, mixer or blender that no longer works. If it’s not being used, clear the decks and claim a deduction.

DEBTS Do you have any bad debts? If you were careless about payment for a function and never received the money, you may be able to write off the debt and claim it as a deduction. You will have to show that you’ve done all you can to recover the money, then you can write off the full value — not just the cost of running it.

SUPERANNUATION Superannuation payments must be paid before 30 June to be deductible, and ‘paid’ means the money has left your account, so allow plenty of time for it to be processed.

It’s best to make super payments a week in advance. 30 June is a Saturday this year, so make sure you’re organised and have the cash available.

KEEP TRACK OF EXPENSES Is it time to upgrade your bookkeeping system so you can track expenses more easily? The cost of doing that is a tax deduction, too. n

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meat-free menus

Priscillas at the Imperial Hotel Erskineville 22 Hospitality  June 2018

meat-free menus

The meat-free uprising It’s official, plant-based dining is in. And it’s taking over menus across the country. By Brittney Levinson.

M

ore than 11 per cent of Australian adults, or about 2.1 million people, have adopted a fully or mostly vegetarian diet, according to research from Roy Morgan. With figures expected to rise, restaurants and cafés are stripping the meat from their menus to take advantage of the growing market.

STEEPED IN HISTORY While there’s been a recent spike in media attention around plant-based dining, it’s not a new concept. Bodhi Restaurant has been serving vegan tapas and yum cha for three decades in Sydney’s CBD. Head chef Brooke Ng says the restaurant’s pan-Asian cuisine lends itself well to plant-based dishes.

“Asian food has always had a strong focus on fresh ingredients; it wasn’t that [long] ago that meat was considered a luxury,” she says.

“A traditional Asian family meal would always have consisted of some plant-based dishes, so we’ve always had a strong foundation to draw on here at Bodhi.”

Ng says about half of Bodhi’s customers are vegan or vegetarian, while the other half are meat eaters. “We have had customers on occasion not even realise they are dining in a vegan restaurant,” she says. “It is always amusing to watch the penny drop and hear them say they may not have eaten here had they have known we were purely vegan, however they enjoyed the food so much it changed their perceptions of vegan cooking.”

fresh produce from the greater Sydney region.

“Over the past couple of years, we have seen the increased sensibility of the diners coming through to the restaurant,” says executive chef Darren Templeman. “There’s less proteins going out and vegetables are becoming more of the star on the plate. They have their own place on the menu as opposed to being a secondary offering if requested. It’s really taken off.”

But it’s not just vegetarian or vegan diners opting for the menu. Templeman says by using terms such as ‘meat-free’ and ‘plant-

“Veganism has come a long way over the years and is no longer considered an alternative way of life.”

- Brooke Ng

MAKING IT MODERN O Bar and Dining is another Sydney institution that has witnessed the growth of plant-based dining. The restaurant, led by health-conscious chef and owner Michael Moore, has offered vegan options for years, but has recently been giving plant-based dishes pride of place on the menu. The restaurant also offers a two- or three-course vegan set menu that highlights

based’, you can capture a broader audience and reduce the stigma surrounding meat-free dishes. “The word ‘vegan’ is the biggest misconception — it always sounds a little bit dull,” he says. “But when you say ‘plantbased’ and start going down that road, it really piques people’s interests.”

While plant-based dining might not be a new concept, it has experienced a new lease of life with the growing popularity of mock meats. Eggs, cheese and meatballs can be found at Melbourne restaurant Smith & Daughters, despite the fact the menu is completely vegan. Much like Smith & Daughters’ customer base, head chef and co-owner Shannon Martinez is not vegan or vegetarian, but she’s serious about providing meat-like alternatives for plant-based diners.

“When we opened, our customers were predominantly vegetarian and vegan, but now they are predominantly meat eaters,” she says. “I think it’s because people are educating themselves because it’s in the media a lot more than it used to be. People don’t necessarily want to become vegetarian or vegan, but they’re definitely altering their diet. It’s the same for me; I don’t eat anywhere near as much meat as I used to and a lot of people aren’t anymore.”

Smith & Daughters recently launched a new menu, moving from Spanish and South American cuisine to Italian, and have taken on an apt new name, Smith & Bellas.

Burrata, prosciutto and squid are among the ingredients featured on the menu, but they’re all made from plant-based ingredients.

“The latest one I was really excited about was a vegan ‘Nduja, which is spreadable salami,” says Martinez. “That was made by drying out mushrooms so they became a leathery texture to get the right mouth-feel and cooking them down with similar flavours to what you find in ‘Nduja, just obviously all plant-based.”

The squid is made from the konjac plant and served in saffron and tomato broth.

“The konjac has a rubbery texture that lends itself well to shellfish and squid,” she says. “I cook that off in the saffron and tomato paste with fennel and green olive and then I do a gremolata on top.”

June 2018 Hospitality 23

meat-free menus

Another one of Martinez’s creations is a vegan brisket made using a wheat protein called seitan as the base ingredient, before adding beetroot purée to achieve a realistic colour. But the chef admits there is a lot of labour involved with creating a plant-based brisket.

“It’s a pretty lengthy process; you have to make the meat, or the dough, and then you have to wrap it in muslin and poach it, bake it and then smoke it,” she says. “It’s a two-day process. It would be much easier to go to the butcher and buy a brisket.”

While adding mock meats to your menu may be a great way to entice plant-based diners, it’s important to ensure the alternative is still full of flavour and the texture and mouth-feel is right. “I don’t like putting [a meat alternative] on the menu that doesn’t taste as good as the real thing, and a lot of it doesn’t,” says Martinez. “A lot of vegan restaurants have vegan chefs who haven’t eaten meat for so long that they don’t have a point of reference anymore — what they remember it tasting like is so far from what it actually tastes like. So the products have to be close for me to use them.”

START SMALL Going completely meat-free isn’t the only way to attract plant-based diners. Sydney pub The Imperial Erskineville relaunched earlier this year with a brand new restaurant, Priscillas, which focuses on plant-based dishes with a small selection of meat options on the side. Group executive chef David Clarke says they have reversed the traditional menu at Priscillas so vegetables are the focus and meat is treated as a side.

“It’s not about the steak and three veg anymore — it’s about how you can play around with that vegetable base,” he says. “You’ve got a complete vegetarian meal that’s really exciting and then you can have a piece of meat with it.

Even people who are not vegetarians are coming in and eating a lot of the [vegetarian] dishes. It’s really quite exciting.”

Clarke drew inspiration from a trip to California for the menu at Priscillas. “In Cali, I saw steakhouses boarded up and closed down and a flourish of veg-based restaurants,” he says. He was drawn to the bold flavours and interesting cooking techniques that were used to highlight vegetables. Menu favourites at Priscillas include crabless crab cakes made with jackfruit and cauliflower plus broc ‘wings’ and coconut ceviche.

“It wasn’t intentionally going to be a vegetarian [menu], but we just couldn’t let it go, it was just too exciting,” says Clarke. He admits a completely meat-free menu was on the cards, but decided against it in order to appeal to a broader customer base. “We were definitely going that way, but we wanted to make it accessible for everyone,” he says.

With a range of customers coming through the doors, Clarke says it’s important to be mindful of all dining choices. “We have a deep fryer that our 24 Hospitality June 2018

Bodhi’s pandan sago, lime jelly agar shards, coconut ice cream and candied lime

“I don’t want people to think it’s the cheaper option because it’s not — the same thought and preparation process is going on behind it.”

– Darren Templeman Bodhi’s crispy finger eggplant, chili, toasted sesame seeds, sweet black rice vinegar, caramel sauce and coriander

meat-free menus

Shannon Martinez and Mo Wyse.

Photo by Benn Wood

seafood goes into and then we’ve got deep fryers that are nominated just for vegetables; so there’s no cross-contamination,” he says.

PROFITABILITY Clarke says customers have embraced the menu and are pleased by the reasonable pricing of the plant-based mains. “Proteins, especially sustainable seafood and good-quality meats, are always going to be expensive,” he says. “Using plant-based items, you still use boutique [producers] and I’m still getting things grown for us, but it is a lot cheaper. We’re trying to [provide] value, and it’s definitely better for the consumer and the hoteliers as well.

“It is more profitable, but you can’t charge what you can for steaks and seafood. So it means you’ve got a lower spend per head coming in and are relying on more turnover and bums on seats to make it worthwhile.”

At O Bar and Dining, the vegan set menu is priced the same as the regular set menu. “At the end of the day, I don’t want to cheapen it,” says Templeman. “I don’t want people to think it’s the cheaper option because it’s not — the same thought and preparation process is going on behind it.” An equal price also allows diners to pick and choose dishes from both menus. “We have a lot of people dipping between the two menus who will order a meat or fish entrée and go with a vegetarian main course,” he says.

TREND OR THE NEW NORM? There’s one thing the chefs agree on — plant-based dining is here to stay. “Veganism has come a long way over the years and is no longer considered an alternative way of life – consumers are now far more conscious of what they put in their bodies and the environmental impact of mass food production,” says Ng. 26 Hospitality June 2018

“People don’t necessarily want to become vegetarian or vegan, but they’re definitely altering their diet.”

– Shannon Martinez As more restaurants explore menus beyond meat, Martinez believes plant-based dining will become the new normal. “Inherently, humans are pretty selfish and they don’t want to go without,” she says. “So we provide them with the vegetarian alternative, which is still giving them all the satisfaction they’d be getting if they go out and eat meat or dairy, but they’re feeling better about it because they know it’s all plant-based.”

Templeman agrees, and says diners are going to see the cost of food, particularly meat, increase over the next few years. “Wild food and farmed food will become out of reach for people’s budgets,” he says. “So the humble vegetable, the turnips and radishes, have now become the stars of the plate.”

Clarke says plant foods are the way of the future. “I definitely think it’s going to be the staple diet and I think proteins will either be small and in moderation or every now and then,” he says.

If these predictions are correct, plant-based dining is a movement that shouldn’t be ignored. It may not necessarily mean stripping your menu of meat, but you can capture a slice of the booming market by adding some thoughtful, plant-based options. n

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dealing with online reviews

Handle reviews

like a pro

28 Hospitality  June 2018

Shayne McCallum

dealing with online reviews

W

hether you like it or not, online reviews aren’t going anywhere, in fact, the number of platforms that encourage customers to post about their experiences are growing. Zomato, Google, Facebook, Yelp and TripAdvisor are just some of the many websites that rank and rate venues according to consumer opinions.

Online platforms give operators an inside look at what diners really think about their food, service and hospitality — which is no doubt valuable information. But these platforms almost discourage patrons from raising issues on the spot as they can easily type their experience from behind their phone rather than speak about it.

It begs a number of questions — what are the real intentions of people who post negative reviews? Are they interested in helping the venue improve, receiving a comped meal or permanently damaging a venue’s image?

The reality is, the majority of online reviewers are not equipped to make such judgements on venues — food journalism used to be a sacred institution, but thanks to online platforms, it’s a free for all.

Online reviews have the power to make or break a venue, so it’s wise to monitor online feedback, take the time to address complaints and compliments and most importantly, keep your cool when crafting responses; after all, the customer is still king and you’re in the business of hospitality.

“A place could be awesome, but sometimes people just don’t want to have a good time or are pissed off they missed out on a milkshake.”

– Shayne McCallum

THE ONLINE EFFECT Michael Luca from Harvard Business School conducted a case study called Reviews, Reputation, and Revenue: The Case of Yelp.com on the impact of Yelp reviews on restaurant demand. Luca combined reviews from Yelp and restaurant data from the Washington State Department of Revenue and found a one-star increase in a Yelp rating leads to a 5–9 per cent increase in revenue in independent restaurants.

There’s no denying high ratings are a drawcard for customers. Most people jump online to check out a restaurant’s star rating before they commit to a booking. However, a few negative reviews can drastically reduce a venue’s rating and ultimately render them as a no-go.

Restaurateur Sally Galletto from Lucio’s in Paddington has worked in the industry for over 35 years and has seen a number of changes when it comes to dealing with customers. Galletto actively keeps track of reviews, especially on TripAdvisor and Dimmi.

“We take reviews very seriously,” she says.

“It’s great because it’s immediate feedback — especially if the customer doesn’t say anything on the night. But a lot people don’t understand the type of restaurant they’re going to. If they come in expecting a heavy lasagne with lashings of sauce, they’re not going to find it here. People write negative reviews immediately; they’re even doing it on their phones as they walk out the door — it’s extraordinary!”

Shayne McCallum from Melbourne’s 8bit used to be an avid review reader, but has now made a conscious decision to avoid them all together. “I used to read every single one religiously, but I’ve stopped,” he says. “I used to judge everyone and everything based on a lot of those reviews.

If there was a good or bad one, I would bring it up with staff and post it on our Deputy system for everyone to read.

“But I think a lot of reviewers don’t give constructive criticism and are inexperienced to make a comment. They will complain about a flavour or ingredient that’s not even in the dish. A place could be awesome, but sometimes people just don’t want to have a good time or are pissed off they missed out on a milkshake.”

FOSTERING NEGATIVITY One of the most common frustrations among operators is the focus on the negative, rather than the positive. If a patron regularly frequents a restaurant, chances are they’re not going to write about it each time they dine. Galletto has witnessed a number of repeat diners at Lucio’s who will not post a review until the venue fails to meet their expectations.

“One of the most annoying things is when people say, ‘I’ve been going to this venue

5 tips to deal with reviews Acknowledge the complaint in a timely manner If you decide to respond to a customer complaint, you should do so within 24 hours. The customer is more likely to be checking the post and the experience is still fresh, so they can provide more accurate information to help you address the problem.

Tailor your response There’s nothing worse than scrolling through reviews and seeing the same responses from venues regarding a variety of comments and complaints.

Use the customer’s name and address each of their points to ensure a meaningful response.

Keep your cool It may be hard to keep a level head when it comes to dealing with irrational people or those who have written unjust reviews, but it’s critical for your venue’s image to remain cool, calm and collected. Public forms such as Google, Facebook and Zomato attract huge numbers of viewers, so it’s best to remain polite and courteous.

Request additional information Honest customer feedback is valuable for operators in order to improve their offering. If the review is vague or you’d like a more in-depth account of a customer’s experience, ask them to email you directly and take the conversation away from the original post. Typically, a small number of customers will take you up on this offer, but at least you made the effort to continue the dialogue.

Delete When dealing with vulgar language, offensive reviews or low ratings for non-customers, contact the website and request for the post to be removed.

Reviewing platforms attract a significant number of ‘trolls’, who may not have even dined at your venue and given you one star for no reason at all.

June 2018 Hospitality 29

dealing with online reviews

Lucio’s in Paddington

for years, but last night was terrible’,” she says. “They’ve never once written a good review but will write a negative one straight away.”

When McCallum expanded 8bit to Sydney in April, customers didn’t hesitate to vent their frustrations, with the venue receiving complaints on their launch day. “We opened and had an email from a guy who had to wait a long time for his food,” says McCallum. “He sent a 12-paragraph email about how disappointed he was, which sucks — you don’t want someone to have a shit time at your venue. But come on, man, it was our first day.”

Time spent indulging in negativity is incredibly unproductive and can be a kick to the ego for staff —especially if it’s unwarranted. “It’s another thing we shouldn’t have to worry about,” says McCallum. “We should just worry about good food and good customer service. Who wants to get bogged down in other people’s opinions? I miss the old days where an actual food journalist would write a review, but now everyone’s a critic.”

RESPONDING TO REVIEWS No matter how frustrating it is to read bad reviews, it’s important to try and keep a level head, even if it means sleeping on it for a few days or discussing a response with staff. Most of the time, customers won’t continue the dialogue about their experience, but it’s beneficial for potential patrons to see an acknowledgement of the comment.

“I don’t pick and choose, I respond to everyone on Dimmi and TripAdvisor except the anonymous ones,” says Galletto. “The most important thing in reacting to and responding to any negative reviews is to put yourself in their shoes and try to understand it from their side.

Generic responses such as, ‘We take your feedback on board’, doesn’t really cut it and is somewhat dismissive.”

Lucio’s received a recent review that tested Galletto due to its insulting nature and inaccuracy. “A woman came in and said the restaurant was three-quarters empty on a Saturday night and it was just the ‘old owner and his son on the floor’,” says Galletto. “The restaurant was packed and we had seven staff on the floor. I’ve spoken to TripAdvisor about taking it down but they say she’s within guidelines.

I just posted a response pointing out her inaccuracies.”

30 Hospitality June 2018

If McCallum receives a direct email regarding a negative customer experience, he will respond, but doesn’t engage with reviews written on online platforms. “I just don’t bother and I’d probably say something I’d regret,” he says. “I’d rather them contact us so we can fix it instead of putting it on a public form. If it’s something we’ve done wrong, I’ll reimburse them and send them a voucher for more than what their meal cost. But it has to be just — I can’t throw in free burgers everywhere.”

In an ideal world, people would write balanced reviews or perhaps not write them at all. At the end of the day, everyone has different tastes, expectations and opinions, and a negative experience could easily be regarded as a positive by a different customer. Keep a watchful eye on reviews, but pay just as much attention to the good ones as the bad. n

“The most important thing in reacting to and responding to any negative review is to put yourself in their shoes and try to understand it from their side.”

– Sally Galletto

refrigeration

Going green Energy-efficient refrigeration has more benefits than just helping the environment; it can save your business money, too. By Brittney Levinson.

R

efrigeration is a necessary part of any kitchen, but choosing the right equipment isn’t always easy in a flooded market. When you’re looking for a commercial fridge or freezer, it pays to think about the energy efficiency of the product, as it could make a significant difference when it comes to your energy bills.

Brian Lennox is the director of Universal Foodservice Designs, a foodservice consulting company that has worked with a number of popular venues including Tetsuya’s and North Bondi RSL. Lennox says refrigeration is a key element of a venue’s overall energy usage and environmental footprint, which can often be overlooked by operators.

“There’s a bigger picture everyone needs to be aware of and a lot of people ignore it, and that’s the environmental issue,” he says. “Refrigerant gas eventually leaks out into the environment. You can have the best maintenance program in place, but it leaks.”

In recent years, the use of hydrocarbons, also known as natural refrigerants, have become commonplace due their low environmental impact compared to traditionally used refrigerant gases such as hydrofluorocarbons (HFC). Energy-efficient refrigerators and freezers use natural refrigerants, such as R600A (isobutane) and R290 (propane), as they are HFC-free and have no detrimental effects on the ozone layer.

“If you go with a system that uses an ozone-friendly refrigerant, being a refrigerant such as R290 or R600A, they tend to run on lower head pressures, which then tend to run on smaller power requirement, which reduces operating costs,” says Lennox.

Manufacturer Liebherr was the first company to change over its entire range of 32 Hospitality June 2018

“There’s the bigger picture that everyone needs to be aware of and a lot of people ignore and that’s the environmental issue.” – Brian Lennox professional foodservice refrigerators and freezers to R290 and R600A refrigerants. “All Liebherr refrigeration products are designed and built to minimise energy consumption while optimising performance and reliability,” says a Liebherr spokesperson.

Energy efficiency is one of the key design criterions when it comes to designing Liebherr’s refrigeration appliances. “Liebherr combines the thermally efficient HFC-free refrigerants R290 and R600A with highly efficient variable speed compressors and optimum design of evaporators and condensers,” says the spokesperson. “In large cabinets, defrosts are done by using hot gas defrost technology, which eliminates the need for defrost elements that use a significant amount of power. The entire refrigeration system is specifically designed to minimise energy consumption while providing the optimal storage performance.”

While saving energy should be a top priority for all businesses, it can often fall by the wayside. “The majority of restaurateurs do not understand their refrigerators are one of the largest electricity consumers in a restaurant,” says the spokesperson. “This is because they just have a single electricity bill, and there is very little information available to indicate how much of their

power bill is from commercial refrigerators and freezers.”

Breaking down energy usage into daily figures can help identify how much is spent on refrigeration and can assist in understanding the benefits of choosing energy-efficient appliances. According to Liebherr, a large single-door commercial refrigerator can use 4kWh of electricity per day. In comparison, energy-efficient refrigerators can use as little 1kWh per day, which equates to savings of approximately $3000 per fridge over 10 years.

Aside from saving money on power bills, energy-efficient refrigeration can also help maintain the quality of the produce inside. “Another benefit is from superior temperature control, which is a result of electronic temperature controls and minimal time required for defrosts,” says Liebherr’s spokesperson. “The more stable the temperature is around the set temperature, the better for optimising the life of stored products.”

When it comes to choosing the best refrigeration solution for your venue, Lennox advises businesses to think twice before choosing the lower-cost option. “Restaurant operators typically go with what’s cheapest on the market, because they’re struggling with their budgets,” he says.

refrigeration

The old adage of ‘you get what you pay for’ certainly applies to refrigeration technology. “Refrigeration cabinets that are not foodgrade stainless steel will have a shorter lifecycle,” says Lennox.

“Refrigeration cabinets that are not [Minimum Energy Performance Standards]-approved or aligned with MEPS, which is all about energy savings, will cost you more to operate. So over the lifecycle — you’re looking at anywhere from 12 to 15 years if maintained properly — the capital cost you save, you’re going to lose in operating costs.”

Refrigeration technology has come a long way in recent years, and according to Lennox, it’s continually evolving to improve its impact on the environment. “There are new laws coming out where the R404A [HFC-blend] refrigerant will be no longer produced — it will still be in the market, but over the next 20 years, it will become harder and harder to get,” he says. “The push to alternative refrigerants, such as hydrocarbons, means they will become more prevalent and in doing so they will help with reducing the carbon footprint, which is what we should be trying to achieve.”

However, Liebherr says there’s a long way to go before energyefficient refrigeration is the norm across commercial kitchens. “In Australia, for food storage commercial refrigeration, there is no standard test and labelling system to show clients what energy the appliance will use,” says the spokesperson. “This is the opposite in Europe where there is mandatory testing and labelling. In Australia, there is no incentive to invest in new energy-efficient technologies, so the majority of brands do not test their refrigerators and don’t advise the customer about [the levels of] energy they consume.”

If you’re looking to invest in energy-efficient refrigeration, choose a product that uses a natural refrigerant, such as R290 and R600A. Not only will it provide a cost-effective solution for your establishment, but it will help lower your environmental footprint as well. n

60 YEARS EXPERIENCE

Liebherr offers unequalled performance and reliability when it comes to professional refrigerated storage of valuable merchandise.

www.liebherrprofessional.com.au P: 1800 685 899 E: sales@andico.com.au

October 2016 Hospitality 33

front of house

Game-changer With the staff shortage growing by the day, most people think of dwindling apprentice numbers and the struggle to find a good chef. But what about those magical beings that set tables, talk customers through a wine list, deliver plates of food and complete a restaurant experience? It’s time to shine a spotlight on the other half of a restaurant and take note of the successes and hardships experienced by front of house. By Annabelle Cloros.

T

he primary reason people go to restaurants is to eat and drink. Food is often the primary motivator to get customers into a restaurant, but there are two forces at play as soon as they walk through the door. The difference between awkwardly waiting a few minutes for a table and a prompt, courteous welcome can make or break a dining experience.

But it’s up to the industry to change the way we look at front of house from an inbetween job to a long-term career that’s just as viable and rewarding as one in the kitchen.

Kylie Javier Ashton from Momofuku Seiobo and The Fink Group’s Jeremy Courmadias are two industry leaders enacting change from the ground up.

THEN AND NOW The way we think about front of house has slowly but surely started to shift, both from an internal and external perspective. Diners are increasingly aware of how their waiter

34 Hospitality June 2018

Bennelong restaurant

or waitress describes the food, if they make suggestions for a wine pairing and even how frequently they fill up their water glass. Chefs are also placing more trust in wait staff and there is no longer a divide of ‘us vs them’.

But it hasn’t always been this way. “The industry has changed a lot from when I started 12 years ago,” says Javier Ashton.

“The focus went to the chef and has been there for the past 10 years. Now, people are starting to understand the value of front of house because you can’t run a restaurant without it.”

Courmadias worked in the UK for almost half of his career, and notes the differences of the value of service compared to Australia. “In the UK, service is seen as a profession and an important part of the industry,” he says. “In Australia, the industry is still very much seen as a go-between job that you do on the way to doing something else.”

The Fink Group general manager also notes the impact of reality TV on the industry.

front of house

Staff at Bennelong.

Photo by Nikki To

Jeremy Courmadias.

Photo by Nikki To

“It’s a huge responsibility to grow and develop junior staff.

Quite often people get involved in the industry when they don’t know what to do, and it’s a great way of nurturing and directing people to what can be a fruitful career for them.” – Jeremy Courmadias “The MasterChef factor has had a massive impact on chefs and chef recruitment, mostly for the better,” he says. “I’m not sure if we can create something similar from a front-of-house perspective, but you need exceptional staff to deliver amazing food. Gone are the days of back of house vs front of house — it’s one team with everyone supporting each other.”

SHIFTING A CULTURAL PERCEPTION For whatever reason, most Australians don’t perceive a front-of-house job as a long-term career compared to working as a lawyer or a doctor.

In school, we’re not encouraged to dream about running a restaurant or becoming a sommelier, and instead are conditioned to look at it as a short-term job while studying; a stepping stone to a ‘real’ career.

Changing the way we think of front of house from a young age can play a crucial factor in addressing the skills shortage. Working in a restaurant shouldn’t be regarded as a uni job or a role reserved for overseas workers, and TSS visa conditions could prompt us to start investing at a local level.

“The stigma does make it a challenge to find staff and keep them because they don’t feel their position is validated by society,” says Courmadias. “Government restrictions around employing overseas staff have made it particularly difficult because Australians don’t warm to the service industry as a career, but Americans and Europeans do.”

Javier Ashton says venues should start focusing on local workers rather than relying on overseas employees to fill gaps. “It can be a really viable career, but we definitely have to shift our cultural thinking and look towards Australians,” she says. “Everyone in our team is from all parts of the world, which I love, but we have to look at our resources and get creative while supporting diversity.”

Having access to mentors is also important, as is telling their stories, so Australians can understand the reality of working in the industry.

“The change in cultural perception, which is long-term, is about role models and putting them forward so people can look at them as 36 Hospitality June 2018

somebody they would like to emulate,” says Javier Ashton. “What I have been working on with several partners in the industry is starting at a ground level in schools, [encouraging them to] not just think of it as a temporary job, but celebrate it as a career path.”

CASUAL VS FULL-TIME PAY Casual workers dominate an industry fuelled by demand. But sporadic shifts are also a major deterrence for job-seekers who want the security of a salary and holiday leave. Offering staff full-time work is a major drawcard that can assist in attracting and retaining staff.

“Most of the front-of-house labour is casual, which is one of the biggest problems we need to change,” says Javier Ashton. “We have to show our commitment from a business perspective and invest in more full-time positions.”

Working in a restaurant environment is hard work, and fairly compensating employees goes a long way; as is the manner in which they’re acknowledged and respected.

“Treat them like professionals and make sure you pay them well — put them on salary packages with holidays,” says Courmadias. “Ensure they’re not overworked and have a lifestyle around the restaurant. We used to work a ridiculous number of hours because that’s just what you had to do, but now the lifestyle is more balanced. You can get paid very well and have a good lifestyle in Australia as a waiter and front-of-house staff member.”

INVESTING IN EDUCATION AND TRAINING Gone are the days where front of house only learnt how to polish glasses and set a table — restaurants in 2018 require staff to know the menu back to front, have the confidence to resolve problems before they make it back to the kitchen and ensure a seamless experience for diners.

Creating a positive work environment with educational opportunities and continuous training not only motivates staff, but establishes stronger links within the restaurant.

front of house

Kylie Javier Ashton.

Photo by Jason Loucas

“Most of the front-of-house labour is casual, which is one of the biggest problems we need to change. We have to show our commitment from a business perspective and invest in more full-time positions.” – Kylie Javier Ashton At Momofuku Seiobo, Javier Ashton has added a twist to the team’s daily briefings.

“Once a day, a staff member will give a five-minute presentation on something related to the Caribbean — it doesn’t have to be food — which keeps us connected to the culture we’re trying to represent,” she says. “The Caribbean is so far away and it’s hard to connect with the food if you have no idea about the place you’re talking about, so it’s forcing everyone to find their own story within the Caribbean.”

Javier Ashton has also moved beyond the basics and teaches staff the valuable skills they need to progress their careers. “I’m teaching them conflict resolution, how to deal with customer complaints and health and safety processes,” she says. “It better equips them to have an understanding of what goes into it — it’s not just writing rosters and making sure the restaurant is set at the beginning of the day. It’s about getting them intrigued about what goes into the restaurant beyond their role.”

38 Hospitality June 2018

At The Fink Group, progression is a key part of management, and communicating a clear career path to staff is essential for not only the success of the individual venue, but for the industry as a whole. “It’s important for staff to grow and develop and ensure there’s a pathway from a junior role to being trained and promoted from within,” says Courmadias. “I started as a waiter who couldn’t carry three plates to where I am now, and I was encouraged by good management along the way.

“It’s a huge responsibility to grow and develop junior staff. Quite often people get involved in the industry when they don’t know what to do, and it’s a great way of nurturing and directing people to what can be a fruitful career for them.”

Courmadias has recently introduced a program for the senior management teams within The Fink Group covering everything from listening skills to conflict resolution and the art of delegation. “It’s been fantastic for front of house and back of house to

learn how to get the best out of each other and treat each other with the level of respect needed to create good working environments,” he says.

“The managers who attended the training now have a responsibility to pass on what they’ve learned and are running their own sessions for staff, so there’s a sense of nurturing, growth and development that is passed down the line.”

The industry is in the midst of a crisis that is forecast to get much worse thanks to the continued boom of the food sector, which will consist of 695,000 jobs by 2022 according to the Department of Jobs and Small Business. If we can change the way we perceive front of house as a career from a young age, these jobs will be snapped up by driven individuals who want to have a fulfilling career in hospitality. “A lot of people in the industry treat it as a lifestyle and that’s one of the greatest things,” says Courmadias. “It’s a lifestyle philosophy as opposed to just a job.” n

shelf space

Oiled up

Young Henrys’ new limitedrelease brew, Motorcycle Oil, is a black, hoppy porter with an ABV of 5.5 per cent.

Named after a Newtown local who rode a black Indian motorbike, the beer originally started as an experimental brew last year, but is now available in a 500mL can.

The malt bill consists of Weyerman Munich 1 and carafe, pale, light crystal, rolled oats and Bairds roasted barley. Hops include US Warrior, Centennial, Cascade and Citra along with Australian Cascade. younghenrys.com

So fresh

Fresh As has expanded its range of freeze-dried fruits with the launch of Fresh As Panna Cotta. Just heat and combine the dessert mix with cream and milk and refrigerate overnight. Simply remove from the moulds and top with fruit for an easy dessert solution. The dessert mix is made using fresh fruit with no artificial colours, flavours or preservatives. fresh-as.com

Goodbye nuts

Bulla’s Nut Free ice cream is now available in a 10-litre tub for the foodservice industry.

Bulla was the first manufacturer in Australia to dedicate an entire factory to the production of nut-free ice cream in 2017 and established a group of staff and suppliers who are educated on the quality and safety of the products manufactured. Bulla has worked closely with Allergy & Anaphylaxis Australia on the ice cream, which is also gluten-free. Made with fresh milk and cream, the ice cream is available in vanilla, chocolate and strawberry flavours. bullafoodservice.com.au

Chai time

Melbourne-based Original Chai Co. has added two new flavours to its range of traditional Indian chai teas. New products include Turmeric Masala chai and Chocolate Masala chai which join existing flavours Morning Masala chai and Afternoon Masala chai. The blends use family recipes and are all naturally low in caffeine, gluten-free and contain no hidden sugars. originalchaico.com.au

40 Hospitality June 2018

Rise and shine

4 Pines has released a breakfast-inspired beer as part of its latest Keller Door Small Batch release. The Big Brekky Porter has an ABV of 7 per cent and features a smooth, choc-malt flavour combined with cereal notes. The beer was originally brewed in 2015 for the Sydney Craft Beer Week’s brewer’s breakfast and has been tweaked for this national release via keg and 500mL bottles.

4pinesbeer.com.au

For the diary Upcoming events in the hospitality industry. Find out more at hospitalitymagazine.com.au Winery Walkabout 9-10 June For more than 40 years, the annual Winery Walkabout has attracted wine lovers to the Rutherglen region to showcase north-east Victoria’s wine and produce. The 2018 event will feature 19 Rutherglen wineries who will host a program including back-vintage tastings, behind-the-scenes winery tours and varietal masterclasses. A smorgasbord of food will also be on offer, with All Saints Estate serving Mexican street food, Jones Winery & Vineyard providing farm-grown duck sausages and Warrabilla Wines cooking barbecue brisket. winerywalkabout.com.au

Women in Hospitality Wine Lunch 19 June Women in Hospitality will team up with The Fink Group to host a wine lunch on 19 June

at Otto Ristorante in Woolloomooloo, Sydney.

Amanda Yallop, head sommelier at Quay, will pair Inkwell wines over a four-course lunch and Dr Irina Santiago-Brown from Inkwell will speak about her journey moving from Brazil and attaining her PhD in sustainability in viticulture. Tickets are $45 for members and $60 for non-members. womeninhospitality.org

Restaurant Leaders Summit 30 July Now in its third year, Hospitality magazine’s Restaurant Leaders Summit is heading to Melbourne for the first time. The conference will bring together heavyweights of the hospitality industry and cover a range of topics including staffing, adding value with alcohol, mental health and wellbeing and how venues can diversify their offering. Taking place at the

Park Hyatt Hotel, RLS is a must for hospitality professionals who want to hear from leading figures, network with peers and walk away with valuable skills. Tickets on sale now. restaurantleaders.com.au

Food & Hospitality Queensland 5-6 August Food & Hospitality Queensland is a new event to be held over two days at the Brisbane Convention & Exhibition Centre. The event will feature more than 150 exhibitors and showcase a range of food, drink and equipment for operators. Special events will be hosted throughout the exhibition including Queensland Chef of the Year and Brisbane Café School. Registration is free and restricted to those working in the hospitality industry. foodserviceaustralia.com.au

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June 2018 Hospitality 41

5 minutes with ...

Alastair Little Little Bistro

The British chef has teamed up with Merivale for a pop-up at Bistro CBD called Little Bistro.

Photo by Nikki To

M I don’t believe in serving anything out of season and I think it’s daft to fly stuff half way around the world.

42 Hospitality June 2018

y partnership with Merivale came about after some friends introduced me to Justin Hemmes. I was trying to open my own restaurant or café in Surry Hills as we had a deli business in London, but we never found a premises we really wanted and the figures just didn’t add up. After I met Justin, he was interested and put me in touch with his people. They rang me and I spoke to Frank Roberts, the food and beverage director at Merivale, who asked if I wanted to do a pop-up at Hotel CBD. A few months later, here we are.

We’re doing an autumn menu now and I’m switching to a winter menu for a month or so before we look at spring in August. The slight problem with Australia is the seasons — you’ve got a six-month summer! In England, you can do four three-month menus, but here, it’s a bit more rushed. I don’t believe in serving anything out of season and I think it’s daft to fly stuff half way around the world. We’ve only got about five imported products in our kitchen.

I keep things simple, but the food is not simple. When you don’t put a lot on the plate, the things you do [use] have to be really good, and that’s what we’re trying to do. The roast duck breast comes with sauce and a clafoutis

of apple, rosemary and salt. But the process of manufacturing the duck is lengthy and involves a lot of butchery skill. Although it seems simple, it isn’t. It’s nice, sensible, balanced food you wouldn’t want to cook at home.

What’s surprising to me is how quiet Sydney is early in the week and busy later.

Central London isn’t like that — Monday is as busy as Friday. There are differences in the food and what people eat, but they’re eating across the board. It’s a small menu and they’re trying it all — I’m not selling more steaks than vegetarian curries. Sydney is fun — Australians eat out with exuberance, joy and a lot of noise.

I wish the [title of the] ‘godfather of modern British cooking’ had never been said. I didn’t say it. It came about because I was part of a wave of cooks who turned the London dining scene on its head. Rowley Leigh and myself and a few others were training up other people in our restaurants to open their own places. Those who left were the ones who created the gastro pubs, which were a huge change in the London eating scene. I never wanted to do anything other than cook in my own restaurant, and now I’m in Sydney and I want to cook again. n

Announcing Australian Pork’s inaugural Queensland Foodservice Symposium Brisbane TAFE 66 Ernest St, South Brisbane QLD 4101 Wednesday 20th June 2018

This is a FREE event to be held at Brisbane TAFE on Wednesday 20th June, and is open to anyone currently working in the foodservice industry. Come and join our relaxed environment and listen to panels of industry experts discussing all the hot topics which affect the foodservice industry today.

Registration opens at 8.30am for a 9am start. Discussions conclude at 1.30pm followed by an industry lunch.

RSVP by 12th June on 0413 732 652 or email inspired@australianpork.com.au We look forward to seeing you there!

2018

8

8

MAKING THE VOYAGE TO AUSTRALIA SINCE 1855 The House of Lanson has been crafting fine champagnes using traditional methods avoiding malolactic fermentation for 258 years. Our most recent addition to the family is cuvée Père et Fils Brut NV which is available exclusively through the On-Premise and selected independent wine stores. An enriched evolution of the classic Lanson Black Label it pays homage to the uniquely mouth-watering House style.

On searching our archives, we discovered that Lanson Champagne has been available in Australia since 1855. Let’s raise a glass to celebrate the arrival of the new kid on the block 163 years later… www.lanson.com

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Please drink responsibly.

Distributed by Wine DNA, a network of Australia’s top independent wine distributors NSW-ACT:Young & Rashleigh Wine Merchants, 02 9967 5900 VIC-TAS: Santé Wines, 03 9429 1990 QLD: Cuttings Wines, 07 3262 1455 SA-NT: Options Wines, 08 8346 9111