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NO.754 JUNE 2019
DUMPLINGS • MARK BEST ON NETFLIX’S THE FINAL TABLE • WINE TRAINING
CONTENTS // June
Contents JUNE 2019
18
Regulars 6 // IN FOCUS How can businesses help shift consumer behaviour around food waste? 8 // NEWS The latest in openings, books, events and more. 10 // PRODUCE A look at French heirloom pumpkin galeux d’eysines. 12 // COLUMN David Dale on the glory days of restaurant reviewing. 14 // BEST PRACTICE When was the last time you updated your staff handbook?
4 | Hospitality
20
16 // BUSINESS PROFILE Sixpenny — the Stanmore restaurant with three hats. 18 // DRINKS The ins and outs of cocktail competitions. 32 // BEHIND THE SCENES Peter Doyle’s choux pastry. 33 // EQUIPMENT The myriad uses of a peeler. 34 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Mike McEnearney from Kitchen by Mike.
26
Features 20 // THE FINAL TABLE Mark Best talks to Hospitality about his time on the Netflix smash hit. 22 // DUMPLINGS An anatomy of dough-wrapped parcels, from xiaolongbao to momos. 26 // SET MENUS Are set menus the key to minimising waste and showcasing your kitchen’s best dishes? Two chefs weigh in. 30 // WINE TRAINING In-house and formal qualifications for all levels.
EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello
Social
Keep up with the Hospitality team
FOOD FIGHT Celebrating the Hunter Valley 2019 Food Fight with a cheese plate at Banksii. @annabellecloros
FISHY BUSINESS Pectoral fins are the new wings. Lunching with Ora King Salmon. @madeline.woolway
Show business REALITY TV SHOWS can be conflicting, especially those of the culinary variety. Most
BARANGAROO HOUSE 2.0 Chiswick’s Tom Haynes has been appointed head chef at Barangaroo House. Expect share plates and produce-driven fare. @hospitalitymagazine
of his career. Read the story on page 20. This issue, we look at the wonderful world
are fuelled by drama, tears and failure, but
of dumplings and why set menus could be the
there are a handful propelled by talent.
key to minimising food waste and showcasing
When Netflix announced The Final Table, the
what your venue is all about. We also talk to
streaming platform promised it would be like
Mike McEnearney about relaunching Kitchen
no other cooking show. Instead of novices,
by Mike in the Sydney CBD and document the
24 of the word’s best chefs would team
prolific career of Sixpenny chef and owner
up to compete in a series of challenges.
Daniel Puskas.
And our very own Mark Best was one of the contestants. I had the opportunity to speak
Until next time,
with the chef about the never-ending casting
Annabelle Cloros
process, the whirlwind challenges and why
Editor
he looks at the show as one of the highlights
Follow us @hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au
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June 2019 | 5
IN FOCUS // Food waste
Watching waste C
Food wastage is a multifaceted challenge — what can hospitality businesses do to help?
M
Y
WORDS Madeline Woolway
CM
ROUGHLY 1.3 BILLION tonnes
sharing [with] this report is that
whose services they use do
power and flexibility back to
of food is wasted around the
it’s a shared responsibility,”
[the same].”
the consumer so they have
world each year. According
says Glenn Wealands, head
to the Food and Agriculture
of Client Experience at
correlation between food
Organization of the United
Rabobank Australia and New
preparation patterns and
Nations, the figure amounts to
Zealand. “Restaurants are
waste levels. When it comes to
— food wastage is down $700
one-third of all food produced.
there in particular to support
food waste, eating out is one
million from 2017 — some of it
consumers and be cognisant
of the biggest pain points for
has been offset by the rise of
annual Food Waste report has
of their changing tastes and
consumers. “For those people
food delivery, a trend that only
revealed Australia’s contribution:
preferences.”
who are consistently preparing
acts to further increase the
most of their food at home, the
distance between consumer and
Now, Rabobank’s eighth
households across the country
The report found consumers in
Wealands also notes the
options around portion size?” asks Wealands. While there has been progress
wasted $8.9 billion worth of
regional Australia, or those closer
average amount of food they
food source. For those ordering
food in 2018, equating to 45 per
to the source of production,
waste is 9.5 per cent of what
delivery three to four times a
cent of the nation’s food waste.
waste less than their urban
they bring in the door,” says
week, the proportion of food
Across the total supply chain
counterparts. The findings
Wealands. “For those who are
waste increases to 21.3 per cent.
— from farm to point of sale —
also suggest educating more
heavily consuming food in a
Australia throws away 298kg per
consumers about the cost of food
restaurant or café, for example
challenge, which is how [to]
person each year, making it the
production and food scarcity
three to four times a week, the
get people [to] reflect on what
fourth highest food waster per
could drive progress when it
average amount of food they
they’re ordering [with] the click
capita globally.
comes to reducing waste.
waste is 20.6 per cent.”
of a mouse or touch of a phone,”
Given consumers are
“Storytelling is important
So, beyond making
“The pressure is on a new
says Wealands.
responsible for almost half of all
in terms of the growing
environmentally conscientious
food waste, solving the problem
consciousness,” says Wealands.
choices when procuring produce,
growing in excess of 300,000 per
will require more than creative
“Consumers are willing to pay
restaurants can get practical
year on a net basis; if we don’t
use of offcuts in restaurants. The
more for quality food which has
when it comes to their offering.
work harder, the gross volume
hospitality industry may be able
been produced locally. They
“If the number one issue is
of food wastage will continue
to play a crucial role in changing
want to do the right thing for
they’ve left food on the table
to grow. It’s a big challenge,
consumer habits.
the environment and there’s a
because they ordered too much,
but we’re heading in the right
growing expectation that those
how can [restaurants] give
direction.” ■
“Part of the message we’re 6 | Hospitality
“The Australian population is
MY
CY
CMY
K
NEWS // Entrée
Pipit restaurant opens in Potsville
Pipit will offer an evolving àl a carte menu of 12 dishes along with a four-
Jonathan Barthelmess launches Brisbane izakaya
and seven-course set menu. pipitrestaurant.com
The Apollo restaurateur
Former Paper Daisy chef Ben Devlin has opened his debut restaurant with partner Yen Trinh. Pipit revolves around seasonal produce and wood-fired cooking, with the culinary ethos described as ‘contemporary Australian’.
Jonathan Barthelmess will expand his Brisbane presence with a Japanese izakaya and bar. The restaurant will join Greca, which is also located in the Howard Smith Wharves precinct. The venue will offer a raw section based on sustainable seafood, specially sourced wagyu beef and an extensive sake and wine list. A bar will be located above the restaurant, featuring
Entrée
a curated whiskey list. Photography by Nikki To.
The latest openings, books, events and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
Liminal opens in Melbourne The team behind some of Melbourne’s most iconic cafés has announced the launch of their new concept, Liminal. The multipurpose venue has opened in the lobby area of the T&G Building and blurs the lines between a café, wine store, event space and marketplace. Martin Webster has been appointed head chef and has created a menu that focuses on salads, sandwiches and rotisserie meats. liminalmelbourne.com Photography by Carmen Zammit
New wave
Guide to Vietnam Street Food Vietnam Jerry Mai
Wave Glass has created a glass
$35; Smith Street Books
that tackles the issues surrounding
Melbourne chef and restaurateur
plastic straws. The glass features
Jerry Mai visits a different region of
an internal wall that sits down into
Vietnam each year, which makes her the
the vessel, separating it into two
perfect person to pen a book on eating
chambers. One chamber holds
around the country. Mai writes about
the contents of a drink and the
a range of dishes from banh mi to pho,
other acts as a drinking chamber.
noodles, salads, banh xeo and more.
Just 50 glasses have been made,
Street Food Vietnam features more
but the company hopes industry
than 70 recipes for readers to recreate
demand will spark a movement.
their own taste of Vietnam at home.
wave-glass.com
simonandschuster.com.au
8 | Hospitality
PRODUCE // Galeux d’eysines
Immature fruits have green stems
More warts signal a higher sugar content and thus a sweeter flavour
Galeux d’eysines
Medium-sized seed cavity
The heirloom pumpkin variety is perfect for soups, sauces and baking. Words Madeline Woolway Illustrations Elena Fombertaux Origins
to seven days if frost is present. Curing will
The variety is particularly well-suited to
The galeux d’eysines is an heirloom variety of
enhance flavour and improve storage.
puréeing and can be used to make soups,
Cucurbita maxima, a species of domesticated
preserves and sauces. However, its high
pumpkin. While the species has roots in Central
Flavour profile and appearance
moisture content makes it unsuitable for
America, galeux d’eysines was cultivated in
The galeux d’eysines is a round, flattened
boiling or steaming. Galeux d’ eysines pairs
south western France before being brought
pumpkin that is five to 10kg in size with a
well with garlic, onion and leeks as well as
back to the US in 1996 by American gardener
medium-sized seed cavity. The variety is prized
herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage, nutmeg
and seed-saving advocate Amy Goldman.
for its strange appearance — their salmon to
and cinnamon. When roasted, it is a great
peach coloured skin is covered in protrusions,
accompaniment to meats and fish.
Growing conditions and harvest
often referred to as ‘warts’, which cover
Seeds should be sown in spring and summer
individual fruits to varying degrees depending
or all year round in tropical climates. Galeux
on sugar content and maturity. Due to the high
d’eysines requires full sun and plenty of water.
sugar content, galeux d’eysines have a sweet
Storage
The variety is not sensitive to frost and is a heavy
taste. Their flesh is bright orange, extremely
Available in autumn through winter, whole
nitrogen feeder, so soil will need to be amended
smooth and lacks the fibrous strings found
galeux d’eysines can be stored for up to
with manure, compost or other nutrient sources.
in other varieties. Its flesh has a rich, sweet
six months when cared for properly. Whole
The fruit matures in 95-105 days from
flavour, which some have described as a
pumpkin should be kept at 10-15 degrees
sowing. The pumpkins should be harvested
combination of apple and sweet potato.
Celsius with 50-70 per cent relative humidity.
when slightly immature to avoid cracking. The
The skin and warts should be removed prior to cooking.
Air flow is crucial; don’t stack pumpkins on
fruit continues to produce warts as it grows, so
Culinary uses
top of each other. Once cut, store pumpkin
over-mature fruit will display more protrusions.
Its fibreless flesh makes galeux d’eysines
in an air-tight container for up to three days.
Once harvested, fruit should be cured in the
perfect for a wide range of culinary uses
Puréed pumpkin will keep in the freezer for
field for 10 days or in a hot, dry room for five
from roasting, grilling and baking to sautéing.
several months. ■
10 | Hospitality
S
e r i o r Q u a li t
y
F
For
up
lity ua
Superior Q r o
COLUMN // Restaurant reviewing
Restaurant reviewing, then and now The golden era of restaurant critics. WORDS David Dale THE NINE YEAR old yelled from
had cost the company hundreds
are in the habit of demanding
the other end of the table,
and asked what Durack had
of thousands in damages. One
free meals, for which they write
“Hey David, you’ve got to put
ordered for his main. It was the
of the worst cases involved a
promotional blurbs that only
this in your review!” I looked up
duck, which was about to be
review in which the critic said
pretend to be fearless critiques.
from the notebook in my lap,
taken out. The host didn’t like
a restaurant’s cutlery was dirty.
and yelled back, “I’ll talk to you
the look of it, and ordered the
The critic was interrogated in
such as Terry Durack and John
later.” Everyone within 10 metres
chef to do another one. When
court about what evidence
Lethlean still serve the reader by
could hear her mortified parents
Durack’s review appeared, he
he could produce to support
sticking to the ancient reviewer’s
hissing, “Shush. It’s supposed to
praised the duck but remarked
the claim.
code of ethics, which can be
be secret. They don’t know he’s
on the slowness of the service.
Nowadays, of course, the
reviewing them.”
You win some, you lose some.
critic would simply display an
FACE: fairness, accuracy, clarity
image from his smartphone.
and excitement — in that order.
This was back in the ’90s,
The host raced into the kitchen
I once lamented to Jill
But all is not lost. Reviewers
summed up by the acronym
when restaurant reviewers
Dupleix that I’d had to spend an
Taking such a photo would not
were surreptitious scribblers,
inordinate amount of time in the
compromise his anonymity,
they’ll need to be guided by
desperate to avoid identification
toilet of a prominent restaurant.
because everybody in every
that, if they want to have any
by waiters and chefs, so the
This was not the result of a
restaurant takes photos of their
credibility with their audience. ■
experience they described would
digestive problem, but because
food, the décor, the waiters and
be the same as any normal
I needed to write epic notes,
themselves, which they proceed
diners. I had booked under a
while my memory was fresh, to
to post publicly, because
false name, and briefed the
report the language of the very
everybody is now a food critic.
adults at the table on my need
detailed menu.
for anonymity. I had forgotten to brief the children.
Dupleix said, “Oh I don’t do
In any case, anonymity is no longer part of a reviewer’s job
that. I just talk into my handbag.”
description. Media organisations
She explained she always
expect their critics to be public
about being spotted as
placed a small recorder in her
brands, paraded on social media
restaurateurs were about being
bag and left it on throughout
and in reality shows, welcomed
reviewed. A host who has become
the meal, so it could pick up
at the door by the host and sent
a friend told me of a night when
her reading of the menu and
little extra delights by the chef
reviewers Terry Durack and Jill
comments on the food, the décor
who comes out of the kitchen for
Dupleix walked into his place. The
and the service. So I bought
a chat.
host had managed to find a photo
my own recorder and, in the
of Durack and pinned it up near
absence of a handbag, kept it
this new relationship between
the reception desk, so the waiter
inside a newspaper on the table.
reviewer and reviewed, because
assigned to welcome customers
The waiters never noticed.
it can mean the journalist gets a
Reviewers were as paranoid
could spot the reviewer and alert
The need for
I’m not comfortable with
special experience not available
the kitchen. But the waiter hadn’t
‘contemporaneous notes’
to everyone. I’m also not
got around to telling the host
had been emphasised by my
comfortable with the way many
until after the entrées had
newspaper’s libel lawyers after
self-proclaimed restaurant
been delivered.
a series of defamation actions
reviewers (with their own blogs)
12 | Hospitality
Soon the bloggers will realise
David Dale has been an editor of The Good Food Guide and a reviewer for The Sydney Morning Herald and the Restaurant and Catering Association. His books include Anatolia — Adventures in Turkish Cooking and Coastline — The shared cooking of Mediterranean France, Italy and Spain.
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BEST PRACTICE // Staff policies
Updating staff policies Does your staff manual reflect the real world? WORDS Ken Burgin
HANDBOOKS SET STANDARDS
unreasonably towards a worker and that behaviour creates a
Family leave and carer’s leave
workplace, so ask for their input
and expectations — they’re designed to help staff and
risk to health and safety’. Make
Rights to time off work are being
workplace handbooks. ■
protect management. They’re
sure employees are aware of
extended. In Australia, the Fair
also another element in
the definition and encourage
Work Statement says leave must
successful recruitment and
workers to inform management if
be given to every employee
retention. Handbooks should be
they are being mistreated.
from when they begin their
easy to access so managers and
employment. The statement is
staff can check the rules and
Modern safety policies
frequently updated and can be
guidelines at any time.
Inspectors want to see a culture
downloaded from the Fairwork
Here are six areas to be mindful
of care that’s not just applied
Australia website — have you
of when updating staff policies.
to using equipment safely in
read the latest version?
the kitchen, but to policies
Antidiscrimination
and training. There are posters
Simple language
Antidiscrimination and
you can display on walls, and
Ensure handbooks use language
affirmative action laws cover
your insurance company may
that is easy for people to
an increasing number of
supply a safety manual or
understand. Policies should also
situations and staff are able to
make suggestions on training.
steer clear of being hypocritical.
access a range of websites that
What’s on your walls now? Fresh,
Do words such as ‘teamwork’
explain their rights if they find
laminated information or scruffy
and ‘excellence’ accurately
themselves in a bad situation.
old pages no one looks at?
describe your workplace? Are
How does the antidiscrimination
you setting tough rules with no
section of your handbook read?
Social media policy
consequences when standards
Is it modern and inclusive or the
Some employees may need
aren’t met? Your employees have
bare minimum? Racist, sexist
guidance on what’s acceptable
a well-tuned BS meter; when
and unsavoury remarks are
and what’s not acceptable on
they see management failing to
unacceptable, and your manual
social media. Rules should cover
live up to their promises, they
should state this clearly.
comments about the business,
might think twice about taking
competitors and other staff
on extra commitments.
Clear policies about bullying
members. Ensure staff know how to make their own social media
the contents for discussion and
A worker is bullied if an individual
profiles private. Your policy
revision? Good staff respect and
or a group ‘repeatedly behave
should also cover cyber bullying.
enjoy a functional and modern
14 | Hospitality
when you’re creating or updating
Are you ready to open up
Good staff respect and enjoy a functional and modern workplace, so ask for their input when you’re creating or updating workplace handbooks.
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BUSINESS PROFILE // Sixpenny
Sixpenny From starting his apprenticeship in a Cronulla hotel to cooking for Wylie Dufresne and Grant Achatz in the US, Daniel Puskas returned to Australian shores to set a new standard for modern Australian cuisine. WORDS Annabelle Cloros THE SYDNEY SUBURB of Stanmore is not
in the city, but he soon realised it wasn’t the
my friends had his birthday dinner at Marque
locale of a three-hatted restaurant. But it’s
was stuck in the catering/function side of the
so I went to work there,” he says.
the first place that springs to mind as the
the home of Sixpenny, an unassuming eatery that opened in 2012 under culinary whiz
right fit. “I didn’t really find it challenging, I hotel and it wasn’t my thing,” says the chef.
Marque wasn’t just career-defining, it was
in hotels, the then 20 year old set his sights
his best friends, Phil Wood, in the kitchen
the trajectory of his career. Sick of cooking
for its culinary ethos, which Puskas describes
on working at the best restaurant in Sydney
as “simple food executed well”.
The chef talks to Hospitality about his
early career, working in Michelin-starred
restaurants and hatted kitchens and how his generation is doing things differently.
Daniel Puskas is undoubtedly one of the country’s best and brightest talents. The
chef has been in the kitchen since he was
The chef’s time at Tetsuya’s and
Puskas’ next move would go on to shape
kids Daniel Puskas and James Parry. The tiny
35-seat restaurant has attracted global praise
and I decided it was the place I wanted to be,
— Tetsuya’s. “I rang up the head chef
Martin Benn and ended up getting a job
there,” he says. “I was still really green and
I hadn’t even worked at a proper restaurant before. Everyone was really serious and it was super overwhelming, but it was the most amazing experience. I finished my
apprenticeship at Tetsuya’s and thought,
personally gratifying. Puskas met one of
and counts Darren Robertson, Dan Hong, Jowett Yu, Dan Pepperell, Louis Tikaram and Luke Powell as not only peers, but
pals. “We were all a similar age and people in my generation were a little bit nicer,”
says Puskas. “We were sick of being bullied by the older chefs so we formed good relationships with each other.”
All of the aforementioned chefs have
‘Wow, this is what I want to do’.”
gone on to run restaurants locally and
learning sparked a potential career path.
Puskas left Tetsuya’s for a stint at a café
from working in the kitchens of Tetsuya
I really enjoyed the hospitality lessons,”
spent some time working in London. When
a teen after a disinterest in conventional
“I was never interested in high school, but says Puskas. “I did some extra TAFE classes after school and started my apprenticeship at a small hotel in Cronulla.”
After one year, Puskas decided to take the
advice of his boss and work in a bigger hotel 16 | Hospitality
before he travelled to Spain and Italy and
he returned to Sydney, Puskas followed in Benn’s footsteps and went to work at The
Boathouse, but when Benn moved to Hong Kong to work for Aqua Restaurant Group,
Puskas decided to jump ship as well. “One of
abroad, which speaks to the stripes earned Wakuda and Mark Best. “Those two
places definitely shaped who I am,” says
Puskas. “It was hard for me and hard for a lot of people, but a few years later, I
realised how amazing it was and what it
did to me as a chef — I feel lucky to have experienced it.”
Inner West location and affordable rent,
apply for the Josephine Pignolet Young
opening their first restaurant. “I opened
the kitchen of Marque, he decided to
Chef of the Year award. The young gun
remembers how nervous he was to talk about his essay in front of Neil Perry
and Damien Pignolet, but the jitters paid off when he was named as the winner. Puskas says the spotlight shifted once
he received the award, and is grateful to
this day for the opportunity Pignolet gave him. “Damien saw something in me and he took a risk,” he says. “Everything I’m
doing today is in respect for the award he
which was a drawcard for two young chefs Sixpenny with James and Godfrey, who
was a silent partner,” he says. “James and I were confident people would travel
for the product. We had all the creative
freedom we wanted and we could grow
things in the backyard as well. It’s not on
a bustling street so there were a few risks,
but we believed we could attract a crowd.”
Puskas would go on to buy Parry out of the business in 2016.
gave me.”
Seven years later and Sixpenny is going
only an accolade, but the opportunity to
importance of work–life balance is not
The award provided Puskas with not
work in some of the world’s best kitchens.
The chef spent six weeks at Grant Achatz’s Alinea in Chicago before moving on to
Wylie Dufresne’s WD~50 in New York. “WD~50 was an amazing place to
work because Wylie had a way of drawing creativity from the chefs,” says Puskas. “I
was very much into molecular gastronomy and learning about the science behind
cooking, but I realised I was a bit more of
a nonna, cooking to bring people together.” After Puskas returned from his travels,
he was appointed head chef of Oscillate
Wildly in 2007. And while he was up for
the challenge, Puskas says there were some challenges at the start. “I was young and probably didn’t have enough experience
strong, in more ways than one. The just preached at the restaurant, but
boundaries in an industry that’s notorious for burning people out. “The hours are
ridiculous and it’s important to have time away,” he says. “Our chefs work four and
a half days a week and they have Sunday
well, but it could have gone either way. I tell a lot of young chefs not to rush into
in 2008 to work for Martin Benn at Sepia before opening Sixpenny in 2012 in a
location owned by Oscillate Wildly boss Ross Godfrey.
Previously known as The Codfather,
Puskas says the site appealed due to its
the late 1800s
The team work
Sixpenny
closely with Sift
offers a seven-
Produce and First
course menu
Farm Organics
for $160
Christmas period because it’s important for people to spend time with their
families. I always take Saturdays off to spend with my family.”
The chef also fosters an environment of
team to pursue potential dishes — or not. all have an opinion,” says Puskas. “I don’t
expect them not to think or try new things. They can test dishes if they want or just
come in and put their head down and work.”
well and truly hit its stride under Puskas.
Wildly, but the pair would exit the bistro
seven years
as possible and we always close over the
foundations of cooking first.”
Puskas cooked alongside his soon-to-be
restaurants from
week. We try to reduce hours as much
Sixpenny was one of just three restaurants
business partner James Parry at Oscillate
130 times over
and another morning or night during the
a head chef position because it could
make or break you. You need to know the
the sixpence
night off, all day Monday and Tuesday
“We all treat each other as friends and we
the whole kitchen. It was received really
named after
at Sixpenny
years, and says it’s important to establish
spend two to three years in a restaurant,
You don’t have the chance to move around
Sixpenny was
has dined
been working as a chef for close to 20
creativity in the kitchen and encourages the
but I was only doing one or two years.
A customer
practiced. Puskas is 37 years old and has
working in other restaurants,” he says.
“When I was an apprentice, people would
BUSINESS PROFILE // Sixpenny
While Puskas was hitting his stride in
awarded three hats in 2019, proof it has The chef has a quiet enthusiasm about
him, and his passion is unwavering despite a 20-year career in an industry that’s
challenging, to say the least. “I’m not the
young kid running kitchens anymore; I have 10 years’ more experience than everyone else in the restaurant. But I need to have longevity because this is what I love and this is what I know.” ■
June 2019 | 17
DRINKS // Cocktail competitions Abby Wegener
Ready, set, mix Cocktail competitions push bartenders to develop new skills and help them create global networks, but are they a must for every budding mixologist? WORDS Madeline Woolway COMPETITIONS FOR BARTENDERS
Philips. “There’s too big a difference between
bartenders in the global comp and in the
distributors including Bacardi, Patrón
working behind the bar. Nights spent in a bar
helped me refine how I like to do things.”
abound. International liquor brands and and Diageo pour countless resources into running regular global contests. While
winning international acclaim is an obvious
drawcard, it’s about more than just prestige. “I initially entered the World Class
competition to test my mettle against the
battling it out in cocktail competitions and are all about looking after your guests and introducing them to great drinks, whereas
Hemsworth recently competed in the
because you have to put yourself, your
the national finals. Technically, Hemsworth
cocktail competitions are a lot more singular concept and your story first.”
Abby Wegener, Australian winner of
best in the industry,” says Tim Philips,
Patrón Perfectionists 2018 and owner of
Philips acknowledges the opportunity to
cocktail competitions isn’t necessarily about
Diageo World Class Global Winner 2012. compete and be judged by “the best” in an established cocktail competition, but says
it was also about testing his own creativity. “Competitions aren’t appealing to all
bartenders, some prefer to focus on day-today service or other aspects of the craft,” says Jenna Hemsworth, group cocktail creative for the Swillhouse group.
In fact, there’s a world of difference
between the bar floor and the stage.
“Winning World Class hasn’t really changed my approach to bartending at all,” says 18 | Hospitality
Australian heats and final,” she says. “It’s
Hades Hula House, agrees and says entering building skills that directly relate to better bartending. “Competition cocktailing is so
different to actual service cocktailing,” she
Bacardi Legacy Global Finals after winning didn’t enter the competition; she was
fast-tracked after taking out Australian
Bartender of the Year in September 2018.
“[Bacardi Legacy] wasn’t a competition that appealed to me initially as it is very social
media and marketing heavy, which are both not great strengths of mine,” she says.
Despite having reservations to begin
says. “You have to present it, you have to
with, the bartender found the experience
you know about the spirit — Patrón’s got
my comfort zone, I have thoroughly
explain why you’re using what and what such a rich history.”
In saying that, Wegener appreciated the
exposure to the bartending community,
which allowed her to watch how different people work and shape their tricks or
flair and fit them into her own repertoire. “I learned technical things from other
gratifying. “After being pushed out of
enjoyed taking on new challenges and expanding my skill set into things I
would not usually do,” she says. “It
hasn’t always been easy. There have been days when I’ve questioned whether the stress and workload was worth it, but
it is something I encourage bartenders
the payoff is worth it for your career, whether you win or lose.”
The attitude has seen Hemsworth
participate in a number of competitions, even in the face of defeat. Hemsworth
entered Australian Bartender of the Year six times — coming second in 2015
— before winning and has also been a
regular fixture of the Diageo World Class Australian Finals.
“Any cocktail competition will take over your life for a period of time,
but it’s worth it,” says Philips. “You go
express your creativity in a public forum is incredibly empowering.”
Behind Hemworth’s resolve to push herself in the competition arena is
an appreciation of the challenge and
opportunities for career growth. “They
help develop a certain set of skills such as public speaking, creativity, self-
promotion and marketing that can be useful in other aspects of hospitality,
or any career really,” says Hemsworth.
“Personal development and growth are
great reasons to enter competitions. It’s a great way to network, which comes
in handy should you choose to travel or
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lose and absolutely everything to gain,”
to sleep and wake up thinking about your cocktail concepts and how you between winning and losing a
in the detail, so I always make sure to worry about those details.”
While competing in Patrón
Perfectionists meant time away from a relatively new business, Wegener
Wegener implores bartenders not to
competitions. “You’ve got nothing to
will be good feedback and applicable to
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coaching. “Everyone was really
supportive, I was getting emails from
different people every couple of weeks asking how I was feeling,” she says. “I didn’t feel like I was left on my own
and then had to go represent Australia. They wanted to give me the best
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“Personal development and growth are great reasons to enter competitions.” – Jenna Hemsworth Jenna Hemsworth
possible chance.”
Philips is a veteran, having entered
more than 30 competitions, but seven years after his World Class win, he’s hung up his apron. “Would I enter
again? Not at this stage of my career,” he says. “I really believe cocktail competitions are a platform for
bartenders to get their name out there. I’m happy to be judging these days.” As a judge, Philips is the first to
encourage professionals who are at
the start of their careers to take up the mantle. “The most important thing to be mindful of, aside from your own
profile, is your ability to create,” he says.
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June 2019 | 19
DRINKS // Cocktail competitions
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FEATURE // The Final Table
Clash of the
(culinary)
Titans
Mark Best talks international fandom, being part of a new school of competitive culinary programming and why The Final Table was one of the greatest experiences of his career so far. WORDS Annabelle Cloros WHEN NETFLIX ANNOUNCED The
everything. But scepticism quickly turned
platform described it as “a global
closed his Sydney restaurant Marque at
Final Table in August 2018, the streaming culinary competition show featuring the
world’s most renowned chefs”. With two MasterChef US producers at the helm, a Michelin-studded cast, a live studio
audience and a stadium-esque film set, The Final Table intended to blow your
into something else. Best had recently
a huge compliment. “Shane could have
amount of time for chefs to be away from
being asked to team up with Osborn was asked anyone, on a personal level, it was gratifying,” says Best.
Information was scarce during initial
reviews after its debut last November. The
gruelling and time-consuming, taking close
the calibre of the 24 chefs and posed the following question: “Why did they agree to this? If you already run one of the 50
best restaurants in the world, then what on earth do you stand to gain ... ?”
For Mark Best, the answer is simple. “We
understood as soon as we saw the other
when the casting process kicked off, it was to one year. “We didn’t get too excited
because it was so drawn out,” says Best.
“There were interviews, Skype interviews, psych profiles, licence checks and federal police checks. I had to provide financial
information and all sorts of stuff — I could have joined ASIO after.”
Best and Osborn travelled to Los Angeles
contestants,” says the chef. “The producers
for the next round of casting along with
board and the production values were
is cut-throat, and so was the culling of
themselves had some serious runs on the
going to be higher than anything that had been out before in terms of the format.” When fellow Australian chef Shane
Osborn told Best about the show, his
initial reaction was “cynicism” — the
self-described approach he applies to 20 | Hospitality
The 10-episode series was filmed
at Sony Studios in Los Angeles over a
conversations about The Final Table, and
Guardian’s Stuart Heritage acknowledged
Ecuador, France, Japan and more.
the time and had nothing to lose, plus,
average cooking show out of the water. However, the show received mixed
including New Zealand, India, the US, Brazil,
hundreds of other hopefuls. Showbiz potential contestants. “Once you had
gone through the process, very few were
selected,” says Best. “Half of the chefs that
went to LA were sent home straight away.” The pair continued to progress until they
were selected to participate in the show,
joining 12 teams of two chefs from countries
seven-week period, which is a substantial
their businesses. After the sale of Marque, Best wasn’t conflicted work-wise, but had to consider the business and financial
repercussions of being out of action for nearly two months. “We weren’t being paid, so income was a consideration,
obviously,” he says. “But I thought this was as big as it was going to get in terms of
that type of thing so I just went for it — I couldn’t really see any downside.”
So how does one prepare for a stint on a competitive cooking show, let alone one that features some of the world’s best
chefs? Well, if you’re at the top of your
game, the answer is your career. “I hadn’t
been involved in [something on] that scale or filmed in Hollywood at Sony Studios,
but working in restaurants and doing the types of events I’ve done prepared me
professionally for whatever they might throw at me,” says Best.
The contestants weren’t given much
information about what the challenges
Darren MacLean. The teams were split
on the cards. Each episode revolved
cooking a career-defining dish in front
be international — aka everything was around the recreation of a national
dish from nine countries including Italy (pasta), Mexico (tacos), Spain (paella) and the US (Thanksgiving dinner). A
revolving panel of judges — including a food critic and two individuals with personal connections to the region —
for the first and only time, with each chef of nine culinary legends including Grant Achatz, Clare Smyth and Vineet Bhatia. Best decided to take a risk and create a
dish that combined the diversity of Sydney with his experience on the show, which he described as a “cultural schooling”.
Best plated up drunken squab with
determined the best and worst dishes.
slow-cooked abalone, huitlacoche (an
dishes cooked again in the Final Plate
the Mexico episode), Australian black
The three teams with the lowest-scoring challenge showcasing a native ingredient selected by the episode’s guest judge.
It’s hard to name Australia’s national dish
(salt and pepper squid, sausage sanga?) so the country’s exclusion was expected. But
a number of contestants had an advantage if they were still in the competition when
their home country’s cuisine came up. Best
and Osborn remained undeterred, and kept a cool, calm and collected composure. “You don’t know what you don’t know and you
just roll with it,” says Best. “The advantage swung back and forth depending on what was your wheelhouse.”
Each episode follows the same format
and producers were strict when it came to the time restrictions, which varied from
60 minutes all the way up to 90 minutes
depending on the challenge. When asked how he dealt with cooking under a time
crunch, Best compares the challenges to
some of the most intense experiences he’s had in the kitchen. “It was the hardest service you’d ever done and the most
ingredient he had never tasted before
truffle and sweet onion and mirin. Judges described it as “daring”, “harmonious”,
“bold” and “audacious”, but in the end, The Final Table for his black cod, one of
the first dishes he put on the menu of his restaurant, Otium. Best says the judging
was fair, but questions were raised by the
culinary legends and the public regarding the weight of risk-taking versus cooking
what you know. “I think I was robbed in the end, but Tim was a worthy winner,” says Best. “I was in it to win it.”
leaves]. Professionally, we just had to use
[our] skills to work with things we weren’t familiar with to decode them and turn them into something edible.”
Best and Osborn made it to the grand final alongside Timothy Hollingsworth and
each episode cost
three days to film
$2 million
including interviews
to produce
and cooking
the 24 competitors some downtime before fandom well and truly hit. Best says the
magnitude of The Final Table set in after
The contestants
his social media channels skyrocketed,
played cards in the
Best described his
green room to kill
final squab dish as
77,000 followers on Instagram and an
time in between
“one of the dishes
shoots
of my lifetime”
with the chef now boasting more than impressive bounty of fan art.
Best is one of Australia’s finest chefs
The Final Table. The chef has nothing but
like whole cassava and nopales [cactus
One episode took
and hit our screens one year later, giving
come up with quality dishes that fit the
mysterious things I’ve never worked with
It’s rumoured
The Final Table wrapped filming in 2017
and has achieved a new level of culinary
criteria,” says Best. “And then there were
Shane Osborn and Mark Best
Hollingsworth was awarded a seat at
amount of pressure,” he says. “Shane
and I pushed ourselves to the limit to
FEATURE // The Final Table
would entail, but they did know it would
greatness on the global platform that is
good things to say about the show and his portrayal — including his “savage resting
bitch face”, a commonality chef and author both share. “It showed professional people working their absolute hardest,” says Best. “I think people resonated with watching people at the peak of their craft and
knuckling down without all the bullshit. It was one of the greatest experiences of my professional career.” ■
Mark Best
June 2019 | 21
FEATURE // Dumplings Dumpling folding at Lotus Dining
Pass the parcel When it comes to dumplings, it’s not just what’s on the inside that counts. Xiaolongbao, gyoza or momos — it all begins with a perfect wrapper. WORDS Madeline Woolway WHEN YOU MENTION the word
it’s pliable enough to be rolled out, the
the same thing. In Australia, the term is
period of time. “You have to let it rest for a
‘dumpling’, most diners will think of
synonymous with Chinese xiaolongbao,
har gow and shumai along with Japanese
gyozas and Nepalese momos. Almost every country has at least one dish that fits the ‘dumpling’ bill, but the only thing that
dough must be rested for an adequate
However, there are some exceptions to
size when you roll it out because the
owner of Perth venue Bumplings, likes to
straight away, it will shrink back to normal gluten has been worked so much.”
There are a number of tricks to nail
a stretchy dough. The chefs at Lotus
dish from xiaolongbao to wontons have a
Cantonese styles, work with a combination
singular purpose: they all offer nutritional balance, providing a mix of protein, carbohydrates and fat.
While the wrappers vary — some are
thin with more stretch, others are thicker with more bite — the dough is generally made of flour and/or starch and water. Head chef of Melbourne’s Tokyo Tina
Sushil Aryal says gyoza dough can be
can affect how the dough forms.
couple of hours,” says Aryal. “If you use it
links them together is dough.
Despite significant differences, every
from humidity levels to the type of water
Dining, who are trained in Hong Kong and of wheat flour and wheat starch to
strengthen the dough. Using hot water
speeds up the gluten activation process,
resulting in a chewy wrapper. “There’s a
lot of elbow grease that goes into them,”
says Mindy Woods, Lotus Dining’s director
the flour plus water model. Brendan Pang, include egg in his wonton wrappers. “For
boiled dumplings, I prefer the texture and the taste with egg in it,” he says. It’s also quicker, with egg-based dough requiring
less kneading time. It’s wontons only when it comes to egg, and Pang does caution against pan-frying or steaming — the
former will result in a less crisp dumpling, while the latter will dry out very quickly when egg is involved.
Dim sum staple shumai also uses a
of cuisine. “When you actually follow the
wonton wrapper which includes egg. “You
much you take each dumpling for granted.”
“It just has to be rolled out really fine.”
process from start to finish, you realise how
basically use a pasta dough,” says Woods. Vegetable oil is incorporated into the
formed using wheat, potato or rice flour
Measurements and the correct flour are
dough for xiaolongbao, which is what
preference. Essentially, it’s a matter of
good and perfect is often something less
will often include butter, ghee or other
depending on the region and personal
slowly adding water to the starch, mixing continuously until a crumb forms, after
which the kneading process begins. Once 22 | Hospitality
of course important, but the line between tangible. “It’s more like a sense, I suppose,” says Aryal. “You have to feel if it has the right consistency,” adding that anything
results in a glossy exterior. Momo dough spices, with many ethnic groups within Nepal developing their own variations. More recently, some have been using
Dining and Pang have crafted a number of
eye-catching morsels. It’s a relatively simple swap: replace water with other liquids such as beetroot juice. Pang says the flavour
won’t be affected as long as the ratios are monitored. “The colours I use are quite
strong so you don’t put much in,” he says. A dumpling master’s tools are modest.
Chefs often work with nothing other than an inch-wide wooden dowel — more
delicate than a heavy rolling pin — a
dough scraper and a small paddle for
filling. “They portion out 10g of dough and then it’s all about the technique of rolling it out,” says Woods.
Xiaolongbao are considered the most
technically challenging to fold. It’s
imperative the centre of the wrapper is a little thicker than the edges in order
to support the weight of the filling when Dumplings by Lotus Dining
they’re pulled up. “There’s a very fine
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June 2019 | 23
FEATURE // Dumplings
colour to up the novelty factor. Both Lotus
FEATURE // Dumplings
Tokyo Tina's gyoza Photography by Jake Roden
Brendan Pang's wontons Photography by Edward Avery
little bump in the middle, perfectly
circular, which will give it a thick base,”
says Woods. Perhaps it’s not something a consumer would notice, but it’s the kind
of detail that sets a master apart from an
apprentice. And anyone who’s bitten into an improperly constructed xiaolongbao
too soon will know the feeling — “It’s like molten lava,” says Woods.
When it comes to construction, Pang,
who’s known for getting creative with his
folding methods, recommends working with the right ratios of filling. “If you under-fill,
it’s hard to pleat [because of air pockets], but if you overfill, you can’t close the wrapper
“When you’ve got a perfect combination, the fat content of a dumpling is generally about 30 per cent.” – Mindy Woods
properly so you end up with little tears.”
tutelage of his grandmother. That meant
All this effort is a service to what’s in
wonton skin, pork seasoned with pepper
the centre. Despite centuries of tradition, the realm of dumplings is relatively
unconcerned with convention, at least
when it comes to the majority of fillings.
“There are some dumplings chefs refuse
to change,” says Woods. “The xiaolongbao is the perfect example of that. It is always
made with pork. We’ve had some guests ask
the kitchen if they can change it and it’s seen as crucifying or bastardising the dumpling.” But for other varieties such as shumai
and har gow, the Lotus chefs enjoy
four to five ingredients, including the
and oyster sauce and the occasional dash of salt. At Bumplings, Pang is serving his own iterations alongside family recipes. “When you go to yum cha, you get a
steamer basket with just dumplings in there and you can dip it in sauce,” he
says. “But the dumplings I’m serving come
family, Pang first made wontons under the 24 | Hospitality
festival in Melbourne in 2017, and the chef was surprised to see how people
experimented with the dish. The staple is
eaten almost every day so people enjoyed the arrival of new flavours, he says. Aryal has found diners equally open to twists on the traditional gyoza filling of pork, cabbage and chives.
At Tokyo Tina, pork and kimchi are
moulded into salty, fatty parcels designed
to stimulate the appetite. It’s common for gyoza to be folded in a half moon shape with six pleats and a flat base, but Aryal
prefers a quicker fold. “I like to just put the filling in, lift the dumpling and close,” he says. “Then you can pan fry both sides.”
Double the Maillard reaction means double the flavour, and they’re a top seller for the restaurant. “We make about 600 pieces a week,” says Aryal.
Bold choices aside, there is a useful
fat content. More fat means more flavour
roasty flavour.”
While he’s prepared to take risks, Pang
the protein,” he says. “Things like ginger,
Growing up in a Chinese-Mauritian
foods. Aryal launched a dedicated momo
and some roasted peanuts for crunch and
few sauces, fresh cucumber, spring onion
Woods says they’re ultimately guided by a for the new”.
what is one of the nation’s most iconic
framework to bear in mind. Lotus Dining’s
stays within certain parameters. “I have a
clear motto: “inspired by the old, created
buffalo, there’s little pretension around
with a few different elements including a
an opportunity to play around with
ingredients that are unique to Australia.
revolve around proteins such as goat and
few ingredients I like to use regardless of
masters pick a protein and then look to the and a superior texture. “When you’ve got
a perfect combination, the fat content of a dumpling is generally about 30 per cent,” says Woods.
soy sauce, sesame oil and Chinese cooking
It’s not hard to understand how dumplings
my favourite is pork and prawn.”
Woods sums their popularity up, “They’re
wine. Pork is the most common filling, but While Nepalese momos traditionally
have come to dominate the dining scene. very complex little packages.” ■
FEATURE // Set menus Snacks at Amaru
caption
Clinton McIver
Game, set, match Are set menus the winning formula in a saturated dining market? WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY John O’Rourke for Amaru THE AUSTRALIAN DINING public can
the benefits as far-reaching. From
constantly evolved. Fico offers a fixed
options and others who prefer to leave it
prep and boosting productivity, set menus
says the split is around 70/30 in favour
be split down the middle: those who like to the professionals. As a result, there are
two menu formats that cater to said diners, à la carte and set. But some restaurants are forgoing à la carte and curating the dining experience from start to finish, offering
diners the option of a set menu, and a set menu only.
Amaru in Melbourne and Fico in Hobart
are championing set menus, with chefs
Clinton McIver and Oskar Rossi heralding 26 | Hospitality
minimising food waste to streamlining
could very well be the way forward in an industry dominated by create-your-own poké bowls, burritos, burgers, salads … you get the point.
Hobart is renowned for its produce, and provenance is a golden ticket for diners.
menu and à la carte on request, but Rossi of the set menu. “People don’t know
what they will eat when they come here,” says the chef. “Being in Hobart, we use backyard growers and local game. You
can’t get huge quantities of things, so the tasting menu allows us more control.”
Offering a set menu was always on the
Oskar Rossi and his partner Federica
cards for Amaru. Chef and owner Clinton
goal of creating a dining experience that
de monde before running a degustation
Andrisani opened Fico in 2016 with the
McIver cut his teeth at fine diner Vue
“The set menu allows us to articulate the food we want to do and the experience we want the guest to have. It gives us greater control of our kitchen and preparation and we can represent ourselves accurately.” – Clinton McIver
Some diners have a tendency to over
2016, McIver launched the tiny but mighty
or under order, but a set menu provides
which can extend to a maximum of 38,
offers diners a taste of everything. Rossi’s
Amaru in Armadale. With just 34 seats — given table configurations — a set menu was on the cards from the get-go. “It’s
the business model we always wanted to
have,” says McIver. “The set menu allows
us to articulate the food we want to do and the experience we want the guest to have. It gives us greater control of our kitchen and preparation and we can represent
a range of courses of varying sizes, which ultimate goal is to eliminate menus all together and cook to each customer’s
preferences. “One step further is getting rid of menus and just going off how hungry
the customer is and how many dishes they want,” he says. “From a creative point of
view, it’s a lot more fun to cook like that.” McIver agrees, and says curating the
ourselves accurately.”
dining experience is part of the allure of
The dining sector has been flooded by
of the experience the guest has from the
restaurants offering endless choices, and the joy of sitting down at a restaurant and leaving it to the chef is not as
commonplace as it once was. Of course, looking after customers is the definition
of hospitality, but customers have become akin to altering dishes and requesting more this and less that.
Set menus allow chefs to cook what
they want, when they want, ultimately
streamlining the dining experience. “Set
going out to eat. “You have greater control timing to articulating the style of the
cuisine,” he says. “When all the pieces of
the puzzle come together, the experience is much more than just going out and eating several dishes.”
Set menus lend themselves to a range of efficiencies, from minimising food waste
to upping productivity in the kitchen and contributing to the bottom line.
Reducing food waste is front of mind for
menus change the mentality of people
most chefs, and a set menu allows chefs
in for an experience,” says Rossi. “It can
of might use. “We can order to the T and
when they walk in because they’re coming be more refined and flow when you tailor their meal. If we had a choice, I’d do tasting only for that reason.”
to order ingredients they will use instead it gives us leverage on our food costs,
stock control and the quality control of the ingredients,” says McIver. “A tasting menu
Oskar Rossi and Federica Andrisani
June 2019 | 27
FEATURE // Set menus
pop-up at the Clayton Bowls Club. In
FEATURE // Set menus Fico
gives you more control — we can hone in
For Amaru, time and money are the
on costs and productivity.”
main pressure points of their offering.
kitchen with one less staff member when
hours and spend $200-plus on food,”
Rossi estimates he can operate the
the venue serves a set menu. The venue
hosts long lunches every Sunday without
the option of à la carte. “When it’s 50/50 [set menu and à la carte] it’s a hectic service,” he says. “If I had a smaller
restaurant, we’d have a tasting menu only.” Productivity is another core benefit
linked to set menus. Chefs are aware of the
number of dishes they need to serve, which reduces the amount of prep required. In many restaurants, time spent prepping
ingredients is often wasted if the dish isn’t ordered or repurposed.
Rossi describes Fico as ‘fun dining’
whereas Amaru offers a fine dining experience. While the style of each
restaurant differs, they share a common problem — diner expectations. Rossi
says Fico emulates restaurants in Europe, where the focus is on produce and
technique, but some customers assume a set menu necessitates a certain level
of service. “Sometimes you have people
“Not everyone wants to go out for three says McIver. “We appeal to a certain
market and we have a definitive clientele who always give us custom. It is a little
more restrictive at this end of dining, but it’s what we want to do.” The restaurant has two menu options — Insight and
Sensory — of which Insight is smaller
in size. The Insight menu ($135 for 11
options) offers diners a gateway to the full Amaru experience and is available
from Tuesday to Thursday. “It’s governed off the idea that some people might
struggle with too much food or time
to invest on a weekday evening,” says
McIver. The Sensory experience is $195 for 15 dishes, which progress from
snacks to larger courses. “We price our
menu at a point where it still represents good value to the guest but also allows us to pay our staff, keep the doors
open and pay costs,” says McIver. “The variables of running a restaurant are quite high and unpredictable.”
There’s no denying set menus have their
come in [who say] ‘Why do we have to
place. Chefs and diners are recognising
degustation’,” says Rossi. “It’s not what
cooking and eating — which is what the
pour our own wine? We’re here for the we do.”
28 | Hospitality
the benefits of doing what they do best — dining experience is all about. ■
“Being in Hobart, we use backyard growers and local game. You can’t get huge quantities of things, so the tasting menu allows us more control.” – Oskar Rossi
14-15 AUGUST 2019
INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE SYDNEY
If you own or work in independent grocery, a convenience store, a petrol station, a corner store or mini-mart, C&I expo is the one annual event you should not miss.
KEY FEATURES FOR 2019: C&I Industry Symposium
Leading P&C retailers and experts will present on the topic “Doing your own thing”, why it’s so beneficial to be clear about your brand and what you offer the customer.
New exhibitors, more technology
Improved technology to make equipment more efficient, to security systems which prevent store theft, we’re delighted to welcome several new exhibitors in 2019.
Categories on trend
Meet with market leaders in healthy snacking, meal replacements and functional beverages.
More networking
Happy Hour drinks on the show floor from 4:30pm on Wednesday
AACS Convenience Leaders Summit
With a great line-up of local and international speakers, the Summit takes place on Thursday at ICC Sydney.
REGISTER NOW www.candiexpo.com.au
1300 789 845
exhibition@c-store.com.au
FEATURE // Wine training
Tasting wheels Whether it’s in-house or formal qualifications, wine training is a must for front of house professionals. WORDS Madeline Woolway AUSTRALIA IS OFTEN accused of
understanding of common varietals, what
training. Run by either Rees or another
wine service culture, despite a globally
pairings work well. It’s all about building
structured and themed by grape, variety,
lagging behind when it comes to our
renowned winemaking industry. The title
of sommelier often isn’t taken as seriously here as it is in other countries, but times are changing, with many now choosing
qualities to look for in them and what food foundational knowledge and getting staff comfortable with ‘wine talk’. “Confidence is the hardest thing,” says Halloran.
It’s almost never a matter of ability. “I’ve
sommelier, the training was highly
region or style. “I also tried to get people to taste and talk about wine during the
shift — the hope being that you create a strong culture around love for wine and
to make it their occupation. However,
only come across a couple of people in
complex, which can make it difficult to
Halloran. “People are often able to pick
speakers from the wine industry and using
vocabulary to explain it.”
“Pictures, maps, always tasting — I’d
the wine world can be intimidating and navigate. Who better to help than three of the industry’s leading wine professionals? Teaching the basics and confidence-
life that have truly bad palates,” explains out the best wine, but they don’t have the
building is a must for those at the start
There’s more than one way to approach
manager and winemaker Clare Halloran.
sommelier for Mary’s Group, Caitlyn Rees’
of their careers, says TarraWarra general “High-level benchmarking and wine
tasting can get lost on people, so when they first start, we do quite basic wine training,” she says.
That includes developing an
30 | Hospitality
the challenge of training. Now group
approach to wine training is underpinned by her experiences at a wide range of
venues, from Momofuku Seiobo to Fred’s. In her first head sommelier role at Fred’s, Rees implemented weekly floor team
discussion,” she adds.
Rees recommends organising guest
a range of aids to help keep staff interested. never do training without actually tasting
anything — and if I can convince the chef, food is a big drawcard as well,” she says.
“Don’t make it too long and remember the
end goal: give the team something tangible they can take away and use in service — it can’t all be theoretical. Other than that,
being relentless in putting wine in front of them and discussing it at briefings, during
“People are often able to pick out the best wine, they just don’t have the vocabulary to explain it.” – Claire Halloran
shifts and in training — it’s like a neverending conversation.”
The team at TarraWarra also implements
thematically structured benchmark
tastings. “Adam (the other winemaker)
sources all of the wines and we conduct the tastings,” says Halloran. “It’s about
looking at all the different styles of those
Master Sommeliers (CMS) and the Wine &
Cons aside, they’re valuable learning
Spirit Education Trust (WSET).
experiences. When tossing up whether the
world, including our competitors’ wines.
undertake the WSET, the CMS or both will
Rees admits she’s more likely to hire a new
TarraWarra sits within the world.”
for sommeliers,” says Rees. “WSET caters to
wines from around Australia and the
It’s important for understanding where
Situated on a vineyard, TarraWarra is able to provide their staff with another level
of training by teaching them the basics of winemaking. Restaurant staff often help
during vintage or with bottling, learning
how the grapes are grown and how wine’s made. “I think it’s really fundamental to
Whether a budding somm chooses to
depend on the end goal. “CMS is very much a wider range of the industry. In the WSET,
To this end, TarraWarra has been working
gin movement. It’s good to think about why you want to go into formal training and what you want to get out of it.”
But Rees concedes there are some cons.
language around wine tasting you have
keep wine training fresh for the front of
house team. Halloran recommends making the most of distributor trade days. Free
WSET, she says: “There is a pretty specific to learn to pass the exams which is useful in some regards, but since I finished, I’ve felt like I’ve had to unlearn the language because it’s so sterile and unpoetic.”
entry grants access to free-flowing wine,
Both come at a considerable cost, too.
of international and local samples.
really disappointing, however … the
and there’s usually an impressive portfolio
For individual front of house staff who
show a particular aptitude and interest in wine service, there are a number of
options for study outside of the venue.
Two of the best regarded are the Court of
Halloran has seen the benefits of formal
bulk wine. I had to write an essay on the
the world, you learn about packaging and
$20 wine and a $100 wine,” says Halloran. regular sessions, there are other ways to
either WSET or CMS.
training, noting structured learning
Speaking of her own experience with the
While it’s not always possible to host
sommelier if they have some experience in
you don’t only learn about the fine wines of
see what goes into a good bottle of wine
and understand the difference between a
cost is worth it, consider the future value.
environments are useful for a lot of people. with the Yarra Valley Wine Growers
Association to set up a WSET Level 3
course at a local wine store. “Out here, it
really is about access,” she says. The venue has also put several of their staff through
WSET 2 and 3 already. “We feel they don’t need to do the WSET Level 1 from what they learn here with us,” says Halloran.
Ultimately, courses provided by WSET
and CMS are for those vying to reach the
pinnacle of wine service, and that’s always worth encouraging.
“They’re freaking expensive, which is
Whatever route you choose, wine training is
courses are tax deductable and [you
should be at pains to provide quality
can] ask your employers to help out,”
says Rees. “Talk to your employer about making sure you have time off for class and enough time to study; they should always support your upskilling.”
a non-negotiable and restaurant operators education. As Rees says, “Invest in your
people because it’s the best way we can
improve our industry and the quantity and
quality of front of house staff in Australia — something we all complain about.” ■
June 2019 | 31
FEATURE // Wine training
Claire Halloran
VIDEO // Choux pastry
Choux pastry with Merivale Apprentice Program’s Peter Doyle An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series.
Ingredients
TIPS ABOUNDED DURING the Merivale Apprentice Program’s first term. Chef and industry figure Peter Doyle details the process behind choux, a versatile pastry that works as well in savoury applications as
250ml water
it does in sweet. The beauty of learning in a structured environment from a pro like Doyle means there
250ml milk
is room for experimentation, with the class unpacking everything from how to incorporate eggs to the
225g butter
best piping technique. Here, we share Doyle’s recipe for a classic choux pastry canapé, gougères.
12g sugar 12g salt
1
2
3
4
5
6
275g flour 500g eggs 180g Comté, grated (1) 120g Comté, grated (2)
Method Add water, milk, butter, sugar and salt to a saucepan and bring to a boil, making sure the butter is melted. Add the flour off the heat, beating with a strong wooden paddle. Return to a high heat for 15 seconds. Tip the mixture into a bowl and add the eggs half at a time. Whisk well and blend completely, then add the remaining eggs and whisk and beat well until the mix drops from the whisk. Finally beat in the grated Comte (1) and check seasoning. Fill a piping bag with a plain nozzle (1cm). Pipe on to lined trays in one tablespoon mounds leaving enough room between them as the mixture will spread during baking. Sprinkle each gougère with a little grated Comté (2). Bake at 200 degrees Celsius for 10 minutes or until they puff and hold their shape. Reduce the heat to 180 degrees Celsius and cook for another 20–25 minutes or until golden brown. Watch the video now at hospitalitymagazine.com.au
32 | Hospitality
EQUIPMENT // Peeler
Peeler
Whether it’s peeling citrus for cocktails or creating uniform vegetable ribbons, a peeler can be used across multiple applications.
Peelers can be used to skin vegetables
A wide blade is
and fruits
suitable for peeling larger items such as sweet potato
Stainless-steel blade is durable and features grooves for easy peeling Ideal to zest and peel citrus for cocktails Hard cheeses such as Parmesan can be shaved on top of dishes
Handle is easy to grasp and maintain control during peeling process
5 MINUTES WITH ... // Mike McEnearney
Mike McEnearney The chef on relaunching Kitchen by Mike and championing mindful dining in Sydney’s CBD. NO.1 BENT STREET opened in 2016 and
table service at breakfast where we’ve
option for people who care as much as we
construction started, there’s been a lot of
for Sydney’s CBD as well as some classic
to make it work.
it was fantastic, but since the light rail
redevelopment. The top end of town is not there at the moment and we needed to
react to that. I never wanted to close the
Rosebery location and was always looking
for sites. But when I think about it logically, it was under my nose — it made sense to
turn No.1 Bent Street into Kitchen by Mike. No.1 Bent Street was a semi-formal
restaurant and we’ve made it into a
canteen. So we’ve built an enormous
tried to offer something a little different
breakfast options. At lunch, I get to serve
on wheels and put them in front of the
coming off the rotisserie and the bread
something new. In 2009, my family and I
in front of you and you can see the chicken coming out of the oven. At night, it’s the
same core values and table service resumes. We use only Australian winemakers,
distillers and brewers. It’s a casual menu that changes with the seasons.
We use a chalkboard instead of printing
menus, which is a conscious effort. We
quite an investment to turn it around.
discounts for bringing your own lunchbox
When you do all-day dining, you need to
tell a story of, ‘This is what we do during the day, and this is what we do at night’.
We have two distinct offerings: breakfast [à la carte], lunch [canteen] and dinner
[à la carte]. My role as creative director of Carriageworks Farmer’s Market and Night Market has given me an insight on the
producers of New South Wales and I have
first choice of produce, which informs what we do. It’s exactly the same as Rosebery but we’ve grown up a bit. We provide 34 | Hospitality
I want to build three planter boxes
people, which I love. The kitchen is right
counter down the middle, put in different
furniture and installed new signage. It was
do. It will take a bit of work, but we want
want people to reuse things and we give
or cup. We ask people to bring back their takeaway containers — with or without food — to the restaurant and use our
bins. We have formed a partnership with a waste collection company that collects
the waste and puts it into compost because all our packaging is compostable. We’re making an effort to do our best to have as little impact as possible. When you
take away food, what are the chances of
walking back to the restaurant and putting it in our bins? But at least there’s the
restaurant every day so people can learn
lived on my mother-in-law’s organic farm in the countryside of the UK. We had a
huge kitchen garden, but there were four
beds with coriander and gooseberries that were roped off. When I asked my mother-
in-law why we couldn’t use them, she told
me it was a Hippocratic garden she rented
out to a white witch. They recognised these ingredients as medicinal, but I recognised them as culinary herbs. I parked the
idea in the back of my head and when I opened Kitchen by Mike in Rosebery,
we built a physic garden where people
could learn about what food is doing to
their bodies. I chose five parts of the body including gastroenterology, dermatology, ear nose and throats, muscular skeletal
and neurology. We planted it all out and
made plaques with information about each ingredient so people could learn about the food they’re eating. ■
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