Hospitality March 2019 by The Intermedia Group

NO.751 MARCH 2019

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NO.751 MARCH 2019

BLOCKCHAIN: THE FUTURE OF SEAFOOD • KIDS MENUS • TRAVELLING CHEFS

CONTENTS // March

Contents MARCH 19

Regulars 6 // NEWS The latest openings, books, events and more. 8 // IN FOCUS Peter Doyle on launching Merivale’s apprentice school. 10 // PRODUCE The versatility of Jerusalem artichokes. 12 // COLUMN Troy Rhoades-Brown reflects on 10 years of Muse Restaurant. 14 // BEST PRACTICE The rise of kitchen automation.

4 | Hospitality

16 // BUSINESS PROFILE Arepa Oz is bringing South American street food to Sydney. 20 // BITTERS Why a little goes a long way. 55 // BEHIND THE SCENES How to make The Apollo’s calamari with pickled green tomatoes dish. 56 // EQUIPMENT Everything you need to know about the mortar and pestle. 58 // 5 MINUTES WITH… Jimmy Garside from Mary’s Pizzeria.

Features 24 // TRACEABILITY Why blockchain is an industry game-changer. 30 // FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS A touch of nature can create a memorable dining experience. 36 // TRAVEL Three chefs on why travel is a necessity. 44 // KIDS MENUS How a stellar menu for tots can attract more diners to your venue. 50 // TURKISH Beyond kebabs and gözleme.

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

THE ULTIMATE COLLAB Matt Abergel from Yardbird took over the kitchen at Ms.G’s for one day only, grilling yakitori skewers and more with Merivale chef Dan Hong. @hospitalitymagazine

Flower power

FLYING COLOURS Mango, coconut ice and pandan cream dessert from the newly opened Flying Fish at The Star. @madeline.woolway

THERE ARE SO many elements that go into

of getting out of your comfort zone and

wine and service. When brainstorming

travelling the globe with Dan Hong, Chase

features for this issue, I thought about

Kojima and Christine Manfield. One of

some of the most memorable experiences

the Hunter Valley’s finest Troy Rhoades-

I’ve had. Most began as soon as I set foot

Brown has penned a column on running

into the venue, whether it was a warm

Muse Restaurant for 10 years and we take

greeting, a quirky sign or even a vase

a closer look at Turkish cuisine. This issue

overflowing with fresh flowers.

is our biggest yet, and there are plenty

Which brings me to my next point — can THE BIG CHEESE Penny’s Cheese Shop in Potts Point takes the cake for the best cheese and chive toastie in Sydney. @annabellecloros

This issue, we also look at the importance

a good dining experience beyond food,

more features on the following pages from

floral arrangements elevate a dining

championing ethical seafood to putting

experience? For me, the answer is a firm

together thoughtful menus for kids.

‘yes’. Memorable meals offer the complete package, and a stunning arrangement at the

Until next time,

door or bar can set the tone for good things

Annabelle Cloros

to come — read all about it on page 30.

Editor

@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Dan Shipley T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 dshipley@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock cblacklock@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymagazine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

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March 2019 | 5

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Maybe Sammy launch $2 oysters New Sydney bar Maybe Sammy will shuck $2 oysters every Sunday from 4:30pm until close. Oysters will be served with a selection of dressings including mandarin, balsamic and lemon balm, raspberry mignonette and lemon and Tabasco. The venue will also be mixing mini martinis for $10. maybesammy.com

S.Pellegrino release limited bottles S.Pellegrino have collaborated with international designers Neri & Hu, Steven Haulenbeek and Philippe Nigro to create custom labels inspired by ‘the journey of water’. The three

Happy milk

bottles, called Clouds, Earth

Lloyd Smith and John Cruse have teamed up to create Happy

the globe. sanpellegrino.com

and Bubbles, are available in fine dining restaurants around

Happy Soy Boy, a vegan-friendly milk created in partnership with Japan’s oldest family-owned soy company Kikkoman. Whole soy beans are soaked, finely ground, filtered and blended with water, salt, brown sugar and calcium carbonate. The end result is a clean soy milk suitable for coffee, smoothies and breakfast dishes such as porridge. happyhappysoyboy.com

Canton! Canton! opens in Sydney CBD While Tim Ho Wan has left the market, it’s made space for Canton! Canton! to make an impact. The Cantonese eatery has taken over the former Tim Ho Wan location in Pitt Street Mall and is the first venue from The Jewel Pantry hospitality group. The menu is spearheaded by chef Jackie Chan and revolves around Cantonese classics including dim sum and barbecued meats. The restaurant is open for yum cha from 11am before rolling into dinner service. thejewelpantrygroup.com Photography by Nikki To

Eat The Issue Volume II Oakridge chef George Wintle will host a second event for mental health initiative Eat The Issue. The event will be held at Peaches bar in Melbourne on 18 March with chefs Matt Stone, Zac Furst, Lauren Eldridge, Jack McWilliams, Aaron Brodie, Thomas Peasnell and Adam Goldblatt set to attend. Speakers will network with guests and share their approach to mental health. Tickets are on sale for $115 and include snacks and drinks. facebook.com/eattheissue 6 | Hospitality

Teresa Aylott has created an eco-friendly alternative to plastic straws dubbed Stroh. The straws are made from wheat stems — an agricultural waste product — and are compostable, FDA-certified and gluten-free. The single-use products are naturally waterproof, maintain their shape and have a smooth finish, making them easy to drink out of. Once they’ve been used, the straws can be composted or placed in a green waste bin. stroh.com.au

Josh Niland pens fish cookery book Saint Peter and Fish Butchery chef and owner Josh Niland will release his first book in September 2019. The Whole Fish Cookbook will feature more than 60 recipes and detailed instructions on how to prepare and cook fish. “I am so excited to be able to share everything we have been discovering and developing over the last few years,” says Niland. “Fish has always been seen as a fairly one-dimensional ingredient. It is refreshing to be [able to] inform a wider audience about the importance of utilising the whole fish and diversifying the fish on our table.” Photography by Jason Loucas

12 months of pastries at Cumulus Inc. Andrew McConnell’s Cumulus Inc. has introduced a new pastry program inspired by global traditions and staff travels. Each month, the Melbourne eatery will bake a limited number of pastries from a basbousa — an Egyptian semolina cake — to a French apple tart, a galette des rois (king’s cake) and a Swedish cinnamon roll. cumulusinc.com.au

Scout Bar launches at The Dolphin Matt Whiley has opened a second outpost of highly acclaimed London bar Scout at The Dolphin in Surry Hills. The venue functions as a bar and features a purpose-built laboratory where Whiley and his team test drinks and distill products including pepperberry and strawberry gum along with fruit wines. Chef Monty Koludrovic has designed the food menu which revolves around bar snacks and finger food. scout.bar February 2019 | 7

NEWS // Entrée

Sustainable straws

IN FOCUS // The Merivale Course

Peter Doyle

8 | Hospitality

IN FOCUS // The Merivale Course

Back to School

Merivale’s new apprenticeship school will focus on more than just practical skills, giving students the foundation for a successful career in the industry. WORDS Madeline Woolway

WHEN CHEF PETER

time to absorb the knowledge

of expertise. They will also

Doyle started his career,

and develop skills.”

work with their head chefs to

apprenticeship programs

With a focus on precision-

manage and mentor apprentices

entailed four years, with

based techniques, Doyle will

when they’re working in their

students attending just one

spend one-on-one time with

restaurants each week.

day of TAFE per week for

students, of which there will be

2.5 years of that time. But

just two intakes of 20 in 2019. “We

cover cooking. Subject matter

things have since changed,

are starting with the basics of

experts will teach specialised

and hospitality groups such

cookery, so the apprentices will

topics to apprentices including

as Merivale are leading the

have a strong foundation skill set

education on lifestyle, drugs and

course, you realise

charge by developing innovative

and be able to advance in their

alcohol and mental health in the

approaches to training.

careers from that foundation,”

hospitality industry.

that after all this

After retiring from the est. kitchen in early 2018, Doyle

says the chef. After covering the

The course doesn’t just

The Merivale Course will also see students complete their

“Developing the

time, the basics are still the essential

joined forces with his long-time

fundamentals over 10 weeks,

apprenticeships in 18 months —

employer to build the Merivale

students will move on to compose

less than half the time required

Course. The outcome is an

dishes and have the opportunity

for conventional pathways. All

a progressive career.

apprenticeship program that

to cook dishes from over 70

apprentices will receive their

While cuisine evolves,

re-establishes the connection

Merivale venues.

formal qualifications — SIT30816

between masters of the culinary

“The first recipe is a simple

Certificate III in Commercial

foundation needed for

it is still based on

arts and students by providing

garden salad with vinaigrette,

Cookery — with a three-year

basic techniques and

structured learning time.

which covers an appreciation of

commitment required for ongoing

ingredients and demonstrates

learning in the kitchen.

tastes — that is what

By spending more concentrated time in a TAFE-like

how the balance of those

learning environment, students

ingredients is essential,” says

program has been a personally

are able to develop and retain

Doyle. “We have guidelines

enriching experience.

foundational techniques more

regarding the curriculum, but

“Developing the course, you

readily than under a traditional

we want to make the course

realise that after all this time,

apprenticeship arrangement.

more exciting and keep the

the basics are still the essential

“Teaching formally is more

apprentices engaged in the

foundation needed for a

structured, and if you plan

learning process.”

progressive career,” he says.

your class well, you have more

Merivale executive chefs

For Doyle, creating the

we want to teach our apprentices.” – Peter Doyle

“While cuisine evolves, it is still

time to develop your point

Dan Hong, Danielle Alvarez

based on basic techniques and

of instruction,” says Doyle.

and Jordan Toft will each be

tastes — that is what we want to

“Therefore, the student has more

brought in to teach their areas

teach our apprentices.” ■ March 2019 | 9

PRODUCE // Jerusalem artichoke

Avoid boiling the tubers because they can become mushy

The Jerusalem artichoke is a member of the daisy family

Tubers can be used to make a brandy, which originated in Germany

Tubers are low in starch and contain no oil

Tubers vary in colour from pale brown to white, red or purple

10 | Hospitality

PRODUCE // Jerusalem artichoke

Jerusalem artichoke It’s not an artichoke and it isn’t from Jerusalem, but this root vegetable is a versatile and healthy ingredient. WORDS Mick Dan ILLUSTRATIONS Elena Fombertaux

Origins

Flavour profile and appearance

The Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus)

The tubers are small, elongated and uneven, typically

is native to North America and is not really an

5-7 centimetres long and 3-5 centimetres thick.

artichoke. The herbaceous perennial plant grows

They are about the same size as a ginger root in

from 1.5–3 metres high and actually belongs to the

appearance. Jerusalem artichokes are high in iron

same family as sunflowers and daisies. It is also

and potassium and are a great alternative to potato

known as sunroot, sunchoke or earth apple. Native

due to its low glycemic index and low starch levels.

Americans were the first to cultivate the tuber

The flavour can be described as nutty-earthy, and

and expanded its native distribution across North

they have a crisp, clean texture similar to water

America. It is now cultivated widely across the

chestnuts when eaten raw. As they are high in

temperate and sub-tropical zone for its tuber, which

fructose, Jerusalem artichokes are sweet to taste.

is used as a root vegetable. The little roots are packed with inulin, a non-

Culinary uses

digestible dietary fibre with strong prebiotic

Jerusalem artichoke can be cooked in much the same

properties. Inulin contains fructans, which are good

way as potatoes or parsnips and is excellent roasted,

for beneficial bacteria in the gut. The tubers contain

sautéed, dipped in batter and fried or puréed to make

high levels of iron, potassium and vitamin B.

a delicious soup or mash. It pairs well with red meat, but is equally at home raw in a crunchy salad. With

Storage

slow cooking, the sweetness begins to caramelise,

After harvesting, store tubers in water to ensure they

releasing the flavour even more.

do not dry out. Tubers stored in a dark place should last for up to 10 days. Look for specimens with pale

Mick Dan is the founder and owner of Good Harvest

brown or purple skin and avoid dark spots as well as

Organic Farm based in Woombye on the Sunshine

soft patches. Jerusalem artichokes are at their best

Coast, Queensland. The business supplies local

during the autumn months.

restaurants with a range of unique produce. March 2019 | 11

COLUMN // Troy Rhoades-Brown

12 | Hospitality

COLUMN // Troy Rhoades-Brown

10 years young Troy Rhoades-Brown reflects on a decade as chef and owner of Muse Restaurant in the Hunter Valley.

RUNNING A RESTAURANT can bring an owner wonderful moments, whether it’s the customer satisfaction, a beautiful new dish, financial success or the sense of accomplishment that

“Muse is something that represents me, my staff and the Hunter Valley.”

comes with working with a great team. But this is all challenged by

was prioritising working in the

difficult lows, financial mistakes,

business and putting strong

with genuine enthusiasm,

stress and the gentle reminder

standards in place and driving

passion, care and positive

that great staff and a busy

the team, which instilled the

energy. I have found myself

restaurant are never a guarantee.

restaurant with a wonderful

choosing roles within the

You haven’t secured it — you have

culture and values.

business that challenge and

to keep earning it.

You need to drive your team

By the fourth or fifth year, we

excite me. Restaurant service

Like most first-time owner–

had gained a great reputation,

with the team still remains my

operators, it was a difficult start.

won some excellent accolades

favourite part of the job, but I

Muse Restaurant is a large venue

and had a wonderful following.

enjoy taking care of the PR, HR,

and the general demands of

We experienced a shift where

organising events, supporting

a fine dining restaurant in the

the restaurant stopped feeling

and working alongside local

building are incredibly high. With

like we were trading in a tourist

suppliers and producers, working

very little running capital, we

destination with high and low

on new dishes, gardening and

were on the back foot from the

visitation periods through the

spending time with my kids.

start. I remember some Friday

calendar year — the restaurant

nights we would have 15 staff on

was consistently busy year-round.

this industry is so unique and

I have two kids now and it’s

there is no right or wrong to

and 15 customers in the dining

Everyone’s story and path in

room, but I knew deep down we

paramount to have balance

what you choose to do and

were onto a good thing and just

for myself and pass that on to

when you choose to do it. I’m

had to hang in there. It’s more

the staff as well. We don’t run

lucky enough to own and work

than likely you will be giving much

the business on any form of

in a beautiful restaurant that

more to the restaurant than you

aggression or fear — we run it

I love. Muse is something that

will be taking from it. But at some

on passion, care and respect

represents me, my staff and the

point, it’s important for this to

and we make sure everyone

Hunter Valley. I’m 33 years old

even out.

enjoys their job. Everyone

and feel hungry and passionate

has different expectations

about the industry and there’s

balance at the start; just long

As expected, I had very little

and staff aren’t there to live

so much I still want to give. Muse

days in the kitchen and trying

your dream — you need to

is now 10, and we are charging

to take care of the other parts

pay attention and help them

forward with a youthful bounce

of the business in between. I

achieve what they want.

in our step. ■ March 2019 | 13

BEST PRACTICE // Kitchen automation

Kitchen technology Is automation the solution to the skills shortage? WORDS Ken Burgin

THE SHORTAGE OF skilled

Consider a conveyor oven

work of three, and everyone

If you have the volume, work

kitchen staff won’t end anytime

It’s hard to go wrong with a

goes home earlier. The same

your space 20 hours a day with

soon, and wages will never

conveyor oven and they can be

applies with reverse osmosis or

a special 4am production shift

come down. So stop waiting

used for a lot more than just

self-polishing glass washers.

that gets all the slicing, cutting,

for miracles and change the

pizza. Consulting chef Paul Rifkin

If you’re doing large numbers,

desserts and baking done before

way your kitchen operates.

says they are his number one

the latest conveyor dishwashers

the day shift arrives. The service

How can two cooks do the work

recommendation for handling

include a pre-rinse setting to

shift can arrive fresh and ready

done by three? Or two kitchen

a busy kitchen with semi-skilled

help lift stubborn stains.

to serve food without having to

hands handle the work of four?

staff. Bear in mind that menu

You’ll also need to take a hard

items will need to be designed

look at your menu and redesign

around the equipment.

laborious processes. Here are

worry about prep — different

Control workflow and timing It’s time to make the POS

Invest in a speed oven

ordering process visible in the

These ovens create hot meals

kitchen and say goodbye to

Utilise your combi oven

from cold ingredients at the

paper dockets. Large screens

With different sizes available,

touch of a button. You’ve seen

that show orders together let you

combi ovens increase the quality

speed ovens at work toasting

track the flow and production

of roasts, function menus and

rolls at Subway — they’re a

time — the whole process is

all the food you serve on a busy

combination of a microwave and

available in one view. Individual

shift. The combination of heat

a convection oven. The timer

screens can be made available

and moisture cooking reduces

makes ensures nothing gets

for different sections. Data

waste and provides total

burnt and most food is ready in

shows where managers should

control when it comes to time

30 seconds.

make roster changes and

some of the options.

and temperature. Plus, pre-set

identifies bottlenecks.

controls mean almost anyone

Clean smart

can use them. Ask the supplier to

Cutlery polishers will halve

send out their chefs who will be

the time it takes to dry and

Separate preparation and service

able to show you the maximum

polish knives, forks and spoons.

Do you still expect prep to be

potential of the machines.

One staff member can do the

done during the morning shift?

14 | Hospitality

skills for different tasks. ■

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BUSINESS PROFILE // Arepa Oz

Arepa Oz For Arepa Oz co-founder Kysbel Castellanos, bringing South American street food to Sydney is more than business — it’s personal. WORDS Madeline Woolway PHOTOGRAPHY Margaret Pahos BACK HOME IN Venezuela, Kysbel

The trio took their product to markets

Castellanos always liked to be in the

and would watch people’s reactions

her from pursuing a career in hospitality.

market stall for a year and did some bigger

kitchen, but social pressures prevented Instead, she studied information

technology before moving to Australia in the hope of finding a job. Ironically, the

to their food. “We started with a small

festivals in the middle,” says Castellanos. “The reaction was always great.”

It was the motivation Castellanos needed

move made it possible for her to finally get

to chase her dream career. “It motivated

“I didn’t know much English at the time,

where we had so many festivals as well as

into the business of food.

so I went to lots of interviews [for IT jobs] but I wasn’t confident in myself,” she says. “I was frustrated so I thought, ‘You know

all of us to keep going. We got to the point [pop-ups at] breweries in the Inner West at Young Henrys, Grifter, Batch and Sauce.” Realising how much they were

what, I’m going to forget about it for a

spending on renting a commercial kitchen,

with her now business partners Alberto

decided to find a permanent venue. They

while and focus on my English’.” Along

Ferreira and Andres Rodriguez, Castellanos would make arepas (maize pancakes) for

friends. “The feedback was so positive, so we started talking about selling them.” 16 | Hospitality

Castellanos, Ferreira and Rodriguez

started their search in October 2017,

finding the right space — a shopfront on

Sydney’s Enmore Road — in January 2018. “We love it, considering the price, size and

location,” says Castellanos. “We said, ‘If we don’t take it now, the opportunity won’t come again’.”

Working seven days a week, the trio took

four months to set up a space that mimics venues in Venezuela. “Like Australia has cafés, Venezuela has areperias,” says

Castellanos. “On every corner, you can find a place with a layout like this one. That’s why we did it this way.”

The shop has a small number of seats for

dine-in customers, with guests greeted by a counter displaying a variety of fillings. “You walk in, see the fillings and choose

whatever you want,” says Castellanos. “You can be on your way in five minutes or you can sit and eat in.”

While areperias in Venezuela will often

have a menu with 10 to 20 variations

BUSINESS PROFILE // Arepa Oz

“It’s personally driven, not just for me, but for my business partners.” – Kysbel Castellanos All things arepas Arepas are a South American bread made from corn flour. Originating in Venezuela and Colombia, they’re eaten daily with most, if not all meals. “The flour is corn flour, but it’s processed and cooked in a certain way — it’s not the type of corn flour you can find in a supermarket,” says Castellanos. “There’s only one supplier in Australia.” The flour is mixed with water and salt, with starch from the corn flour acting as an adhesive. In Venezuela, everyone buys the flour and makes the dough at home. “You can leave the dough in the fridge for 1.5 weeks, but we don’t let it sit for more than three days because the flavour changes,” says Castellanos. The gluten-free, unleavened dough is rolled into balls and flattened before being grilled, baked or fried. “They’re crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside,” says Castellanos. “For me, it’s the best combination.”

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March 2019 | 17

BUSINESS PROFILE // Arepa Oz

Arepa dough

to choose from as well as the option for

Where Arepa diverges from tradition

diners to create their own, the Arepa

is when it comes to fillings. “We wanted

concept in an attempt to keep things

comfortable coming to,” says Castellanos.

Oz team decided against the DIY

simple for the unfamiliar Australian

audience. “We thought about doing it

like a poke shop — choose the base then protein then the rest, says Castellanos.

“But we realised we’re not in Venezuela, so we have to promote arepas first then we can play around.”

Systems also needed to be optimised for

the business’ diverse portfolio — Arepa

Oz continues to participate in the festival

circuit, make regular appearances at local

breweries and offer catering services. “We need to systemise everything so it works

perfectly even when we’re not there,” says Castellanos. “The consistency of the food

is something we’ve worked hard to achieve in the kitchen.”

Beyond getting the fit out right, the team went to great lengths to create a menu

that is approachable for Australians and familiar to Latin Americans. “The bread

itself is exactly like we eat everyday back home,” says Castellanos. 18 | Hospitality

a restaurant that Australians feel

“But there are a lot of Latins in Sydney and we wanted to offer them what we eat at

Once the right supplier was found, it became easier for Arepa Oz’s chef to make food that

satisfied the desire for authenticity. “The chef has created a mix of spices that tastes like home,” says Castellanos.

Fresh cheeses found in Venezuela and

home. The pulled pork is Australian, but

Colombia simply can’t be produced in

the black bean and chicken recipes, which

team has to make do with substitutes such

other things are very traditional such as taste like home.”

Australia due to food safety laws, so the

as feta. “There are heaps of cheeses that

don’t exist in Australia,” says Castellanos.

“For us, it’s not only

“We have a very salty cheese that we grate

a restaurant —

it’s not the same. You need raw milk to get

it’s a family.” – Kysbel Castellanos The mission has kept the team going

despite obstacles, such as sourcing

authentic ingredients including black beans and the flour needed to make arepas.

“When we started, it was hard to find the

beans,” says Castellanos. “We found them,

but when we cooked them, they didn’t turn

out how we wanted. We had to try different suppliers until we found the one that was perfect for our recipe.”

[in Venezuela]. Feta is the most similar, but the right consistency, so by law, we can’t sell it here.”

New to the industry, and relatively new to the country, Castellanos has made it her personal mission to be part of the local

hospitality community by attending events run by Drinks with Chefs and Women in

Hospitality. “I try to socialise with people in the industry through events … there

is so much to learn,” she says. The same

attitude is reflected in Castellanos and co’s approach to operating Arepa Oz. “For us,

it’s not just a restaurant — it’s a family.” ■

Get more For the latest hospitality news, get our free e-newsletter at: hospitalitymagazine.com.au

OPENINGS • TRENDS • TECH • LEGISLATION • JOBS

DRINKS // Bitters

An Employees Only cocktail

Tiny but mighty

An Employees Only manhattan

Bitters are often the smallest component of a cocktail in volumetric terms, but they pack a punch well above their paygrade. WORDS Madeline Woolway

IN RESPONSE TO a reader’s letter, the

it’s a little bit sweet, but the bitterness

Repository wrote in 1806 that a cocktail

sweetness and keeps you drinking more.

editor of The Balance, and Columbian consisted of four elements: spirits,

water, sugar and bitters. But according

to Employees Only’s Robert Krueger, it’s

launched in 2004, choices were limited.

The bitters are the punctuation — they’re

and a company called Fee Brothers,”

the thing that lingers.”

not that simple anymore. “The term has

While there are now countless varieties

cocktail,” says Krueger. “Bitters are in the

Peychaud’s Bitters are essential, along with

broadened from the original definition of definition of a cocktail, though.”

Bitters aren’t just in the definition;

available, for Krueger, Angostura and orange bitters.

Andrea Gualdi of Maybe Frank and

they’re often the defining element. Bitters

Maybe Sammy in Sydney agrees. “Aromatic

only by the dash, but they can change the

classic cocktails,” he says. “The classics

may be the smallest component, used

character of a drink for better or worse.

The pocket rocket behind many classics, from the old fashioned and the sazerac

to the Manhattan, bitters are responsible for a well-balanced cocktail. “Take the

Manhattan,” says Krueger. “On the whole, 20 | Hospitality

When Employees Only New York

is the finish. It’s what balances out the

bitters are a must have, especially for

“We could get Angostura, Peychaud’s

says Krueger. “Over the next five years,

boutique bitters operations opened up all over the globe.”

Using bitters to their potential has

always required a deft touch — just a dash can be the difference between success and

failure. The introduction of new variations has both opened doors for bartenders and complicated the world of mixology.

Making the most of aromatic bitters

we use are Angostura and Peychaud’s.

comes down to a combination of strong

celery and orange, of course. If you want

experimentation. Krueger’s advice? “I say

Then we have grapefruit bitters, coffee,

to have a bar, you at least need Angostura, Peychaud’s and orange bitters. Everything else is a plus.”

foundational knowledge and fearless

grab a range of different bitters that pique

your interest. Take one cocktail and split it

up into multiple glasses and treat each one

DRINKS // Bitters

A selection of Employees Only cocktails

with a different bitters to see what they enhance and

Trinidad sour Aromatic bitters are not made to be sipped like their digestif counterparts, but some renegade bartenders have developed cocktails that prescribe them by the shot full

what elements they bring out. A combination may end up getting the job done.”

It’s a process the team at Employees Only

regularly goes through. “We might like the balance

of ingredients, but want a little more depth and end to the story, so we’ll try three different bitters,” says

Krueger. “The cinnamon element in one might come out and another might brighten up the orange —

different bitters harmonise with different ingredients.”

rather than the dash. Krueger tells the story of Giuseppe Gonzalez and the Trinidad sour, which calls for 45ml of Angostura. “It’s the main ingredient in the cocktail; he staked his reputation on it.”

Experimenting may be encouraged, but there’s a method to the madness. One approach is to

understand the history behind different bitters. “There are so many brand ambassadors who do training and

[can] show you how [bitters] are made,” says Gualdi.

“Once you understand how something is made, it gets easier to play with it.”

Knowing how specific liquors are made and what

goes in to them can give bartenders a greater depth Here’s a recipe for the bold cocktail: 45ml Angostura bitters 30ml orgeat 22ml fresh lemon juice

of understanding, ultimately improving their skills. According to Gualdi, bitters express regionality

because they are distilled from native botanicals. “I

check the area where they come from and see what

other herbs grow there; usually what grows together

15ml rye whiskey

goes together.”

Add all the ingredients

important. It may be just a dash or two, but timing

How the ingredients go together is equally as

into a shaker with ice and shake for 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled glass. Recipe from liquor.com

and preparation method should not be overlooked

as it will affect dilution. Putting the bitters and sugar in before adding spirits will achieve different results

compared to diluting the spirit before adding bitters. “Generally, they go in early so they get a chance to

permeate, but it’s not always the case,” says Krueger. March 2019 | 21

DRINKS // Bitters

Digestifs While most good cocktails will include a bitter element, it’s not always the aromatic kind. A strong Italian influence at Maybe Sammy sees a reliance on amaro, while Maybe Frank is more international in flavour. “That’s why we go for something like Becherovka [at Maybe Frank], which has different kinds of herbs and botanicals,” says Gualdi. Czech in origin, Becherovka is made from a secret combination of more than 20 herbs and spices, resulting in a gingery, cinnamon flavour. “I like working

“Usually, what grows together goes together.” – Andrea Gualdi

with it because it has a unique flavour,” says Gualdi. “You can mix it with anything — you just have to be careful about the

A Maybe Sammy cocktail

proportions. I like making a negroni and replacing the gin with it. It’s very aromatic. I use 40/40 vermouth and Campari, then 10–15ml of Becherovka.” At Maybe Sammy, it’s used in the Thunderbird, which combines two Italian aperitifs with housemade kombucha. “The kombucha is more acidic and carbonated [than store-bought varieties], so you just need 10ml of Becherovka

Maybe Sammy's Thunderbird

because the bubbles really bring it up,” says Gualdi. In the Down Payment — a Sydney exclusive from the Employees Only team — Suze is what functions as the bitters. Normally drunk as an aperitif, the French brand of bitters is flavoured with gentian roots. “There’s almost always something in a cocktail that serves as a bittering agent,” says Krueger. “That’s how they come together.” Aperitifs and digestifs are generally less concentrated than aromatic bitters and often include sugar, making them palatable for sipping on their own as well.

“Putting it in at a different stage could get

drinks that are stirred rather than shaken.

If you’re putting a dash in at the top, that’s

flavours,” he says. “With whisky and rum, I

it to the right level of dilution to harmonise. where they’ll make their appearance.”

Using a dash of bitters to garnish something

like to use Angostura.”

like a sour, which uses egg whites, is less

The fact that bitters are such an important

mindset. “When we make cocktails that use

perfect vessel to give old favourites a twist.

about complexity and balance and more about egg whites, we always put the bitters on the

top, not in the drink,” says Gualdi. “When you go to drink, you put your nose in the glass, so you smell bitters not egg whites [when you put bitters on last].”

Gualdi also considers the method of

preparation as well as the style of spirit. To

make Maybe Frank’s Flamingo Capri (a twist

on the cosmopolitan using pisco and aquavit) Gualdi uses Peychaud’s, which tends to work better with lighter spirits, especially with

22 | Hospitality

“Peychaud’s adds complexity [and] lifts up the

component of many classics makes them the Replacing the type of bitters in a classic can change the drink without altering its DNA. By maintaining the same ratios of whisky,

water and sugar and substituting Angostura with another variety of bitters, bartenders can uncover new flavour profiles while

serving up a recognisable old fashioned

or sazerac, for example. As Gualdi says, “Nothing is written in stone; you can always twist a drink, especially with aromatic bitters.”

■

FEATURE // Traceability

24 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Traceability

Nothing fishy Blockchain technology is the new frontier in traceability, with pilot project OpenSC leading the charge when it comes to tracking seafood. WORDS Madeline Woolway ONE OF THE world’s most prized fish

species is found off the coast of Heard

Island and McDonald Islands (HIMI), more than 4000 kilometres from Perth and 2000 metres below the ocean’s surface. Desired

What is blockchain? According to the Harvard Business

for its high fat content and snow white,

Review, “blockchain is

spent decades dodging nets cast by pirates

ledger that can record

Illegal, unreported and unregulated

two parties efficiently

flaky flesh, the Patagonian toothfish has

hoping to bring in a haul of ‘white gold’.

an open, distributed transactions between

(IUU) fishing nearly collapsed some

and in a verifiable and

1990s and 2000s. And the MSC-certified

distributed database

fisheries in the Southern Ocean during the

permanent way.” Its

Australian government-run HIMI fishery

model means anyone

Patagonian toothfish that have felt the

particular blockchain

is one of many remote locations targeting force of IUU.

Located at the southern tip of Heard

Island is Fiftyone Glacier, which is where

a fleet of Austral Fisheries vessels bring in

with access to a can see the entire database and any modifications made to it, with no single party

the Glacier 51 toothfish. It takes crews one

controlling the data.

once they arrive, they’re faced with gale

altered once entered

week just to get to the fishing grounds, and

Records cannot be

force winds, horizontal snow and just four

into the blockchain

Austral Fisheries work with numerous

tied to every prior

hours of daylight.

bodies to ensure their catch is both ethical and sustainable, and the company has

committed serious capital to safeguard the fishery’s future. The product is

recommended by the Monterey Bay

Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program; fish stocks are closely monitored in

collaboration with the Australia Antarctic

Division (vessels are required to participate

because they’re transaction.

in tag and release programs); the

company is certified under the Australian government’s carbon neutral program

and its crews work in accordance with strict safety protocols.

Such efforts have made the Glacier

51 toothfish a favourite among chefs looking for a premium product with ethics to boot. But the fish has also become a target of fraud.

In his time as Austral Fisheries CEO,

David Carter has seen both clumsy

and sophisticated attempts to rip off the brand’s look and feel. “This is a

function of success,” says Carter. “As

Glacier 51 becomes more recognised and the brand gains allure and exclusivity, there will

be more people who want to cash

in.” These attempts come at a cost — unregulated vessels put their crews

and the Patagonian toothfish at risk by ignoring safety regulations and overfishing in protected zones.

The Glacier 51 toothfish is the perfect

species to trial a new tracking program developed by the World Wildlife Fund

in collaboration with Boston Consulting Group (BCG) Digital Ventures. OpenSC

(open supply chain) combines a number of technologies, including blockchain,

to create a system that tracks individual products from bait to plate. The aim is to provide businesses and consumers

March 2019 | 25

FEATURE // Traceability

> HOW IT WORKS

EXAMPLE

Patagonian Toothfish

OpenSC from bait to plate

Credit OpenSC

VERIFY

TRACE

claims about responsible production

products throughout the supply chain

information with consumers

Antarctica

Perth

Machine learning model analyses GPS location to verify fishing in legal/sustainable area

IoT tag attached to fish at catch locations in Antarctic waters

IoT tag converted to a unique QR code for each piece of the fish

Consumers around the world can scan the QR code to see the journey of their fish

All data is stored on the blockchain

with a platform that helps them tag to a fish at the first safe point process A unique ID for your fish:-4616-43E9-9A85-C9598E645BD9 avoid environmentally damaging and within minutes not hours,” says Freeman. unethical products.

Carter sees Austral’s participation in the

pilot as a continuation of the company’s evolution. The Glacier 51 brand has

become a vessel to promote the work

conducted by Austral Fisheries and the

regulatory bodies it works with. “Brands

become a way for you to communicate the things that are important to you and your customers,” he says. “When your brand

becomes successful, people want to steal

the IP through fraud or misuse. A platform like this allows you to tell the story to

customers and the supply chain so much better than we’ve been able to do.”

For chef Matt Moran, who serves

Glacier 51 at his Sydney restaurant Aria, the decision makes total sense. “There

was so much of it [Patagonian toothfish] on the black market coming out of Argentina,” he says.

Tracking programs already exist, but OpenSC is unique for a number of

reasons. “There are a lot of technologies out there tracking different products in

different ways,” says Phil Freeman, WWF strategist and temporary OpenSC project director. “We’re using a combination of

technologies to verify particular claims.” In the case of the Glacier 51, it means

verifying if individual fish were caught

in legal fishing areas. “We aim to attach a RFID [radio frequency identification] 26 | Hospitality

Machine learning The digital nature of distributed ledgers makes them programmable, meaning algorithms can be developed and attached to them. OpenSC’s marine and data scientists used this technology to build a machine learning model, which overlaid the location of Austral’s vessel on to the map of zones where it is illegal to fish (but still legal to travel through). The information is combined with data collected about boat speed, sea depth and weather from the protected location at the time to determine whether it is possible the vessel was fishing while it passed through the illegal fishing zones.

“A digital twin is produced and [a variety of] data is collected and stored on the

blockchain. We use the blockchain because once data is recorded, it’s tamper-proof. “We’ve also built machine learning

technology that produces an algorithm that can verify if the boat was in a

legal fishing zone and we can attach

the verification to the digital twin for a particular fish,” Freeman explains.

The fish are then tracked as they travel through to Perth via Mauritius for

filleting before they are sent to their final destination — for example, a restaurant. The development is a boon for an

industry that’s been plagued by people

telling ‘porkies’, says John Susman. “All

these things embed deeply in the supply chain, which I think is a real positive —

particularly in the wild catch sector,” he says. “It’s not uncommon to have five

or six sets of hands in the supply chain before it gets to the end user.”

Data on the RFID tags is linked with a QR

code and attached to packaging. Austral is

able to share the stories of each Glacier 51

toothfish with clients, who can then pass the information on to their customers. OpenSC works with restaurateurs and retailers to

develop simple and engaging experiences

so customers can find out more information about the food they’re about to eat.

In a restaurant setting, this could mean

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FEATURE // Traceability providing diners with a QR code (printed on a menu for example) so they can

access information directly or equipping

Glacier 51 toothfish

front of house staff with details. “Billions of consumers around the world now

have a super computer in the form of a

smartphone in their pocket, so we have the ability to engage them about what they’re eating, where it came from and the story behind it,” says Freeman.

OpenSC has developed an app and

website through which end users can view the journey of the individual

Glacier 51 toothfish they have purchased, as well as other data such as details

about the vessel it was caught by and cold chain management.

While Susman can’t see many diners

reaching for their phones to scan a QR code

“As a chef and restaurateur, I want to know where my food comes from, I want it to be sustainable, I want it to be ethical and I want it to be known that it’s caught in the right waters by the right person.” – Matt Moran becomes another dimension for the chef’s own brand.”

Regardless of whether consumers

platform provides a basis for people like us to respond to consumer trends.”

Freeman points to the potential of

at dinner, he agrees OpenSC has a clear

actively engage with storytelling, the

improved product recall procedures. “There’s

back of house security,” he says. “Having a

consuming was tracked using Internet of

says. “Look at strawberries and the massive

value for the industry. “I think it’s more

known provenance and history is going to be of value to commercial buyers.”

Moran differs in opinion, arguing the

platform’s novelty value will draw diners in at first. “Once they see what it does, I

think they’ll keep using it, which is a great thing,” he says. “If you know even a little about the history of a product, it tastes better — there’s a romance to it.”

Storytelling has become key practice for

many restaurateurs, with chefs going to

great lengths to find ethical and sustainable produce. “Most chefs and restaurants

understand the value of storytelling in the restaurant experience,” says Carter. “All

the chefs I’ve met acknowledge the critical importance of good produce, so the data 28 | Hospitality

knowledge that the product they are

Things (IoT) and blockchain technology provides reassurance they’re buying

sustainable, ethical products. It’s crucial progress for businesses such as Austral, which stake their existence on claims

about the ethicality of their operations. Looking to the future, those involved

in the pilot believe the combination of machine learning, IoT and blockchain technology used by OpenSC could

become the foundation for product origin, environmental credentials, social impact, animal welfare concerns and worker

safety. “It’s endless,” says Carter. “What the market is keen to know about and pay a

premium for will continually evolve — the

a cost that gets built in [to the market],” he amount that had to be trashed because of

an isolatable problem. The cost has to flow through to consumers somewhere, and

what a terrible waste of good food from an environmental perspective.”

With the cost of technology including

RFID tags rapidly decreasing, Moran sees no reason for the technology to remain

the domain of upmarket products. “In the

future, I think there’ll be multiple products on it,” he says. “As a chef and restaurateur, I want to know where my food comes

from, I want it to be sustainable, I want

it to be ethical and I want it to be known that it’s caught in the right waters by the

right person. We have to start doing this or we won’t have anything left.” ■

FEATURE // Floral arrangements

In full bloom More than something pretty to look at, bespoke floral arrangements offer a host of perks for restaurateurs. WORDS Annabelle Cloros

30 | Hospitality

DINERS LOOK FOR a number of elements

the Melbourne-based florist. “My primary

good service, an exquisite menu, a modern

of the space and the aesthetic of the

to quantify a positive dining experience — fit out and even a stellar playlist. You may

not have given much thought to the topic, but floral arrangements follow the same vein. Whether it’s a few small vases, a

centerpiece or en masse, flowers can take your venue to the next level. Hospitality

speaks to florists Joost Bakker and Nadene

consideration is [determining] the essence business and then looking at how flowers

can enhance the overall experience. Once we get a clear picture, I delve into the

logistics such as the type of flowers, how

often they might need to be refreshed and where they should be placed.”

The Boathouse Group is one such

Sachinidis about durability and piquing

business that has used flowers to shape

benefits with food writer Melissa Leong,

in Sydney and the Central Coast are

customer interest and discusses the key

Stokehouse’s Hugh van Haandel and The Boathouse Group’s Andrew Goldsmith. Joost Bakker wears many hats. You

may know him as the man behind

Greenhouse Perth and Melbourne’s Silo or as a passionate eco warrior, but he’s

also worked as a florist for more than 25

years. Bakker has close ties with some of

Melbourne’s leading venues including The European, Gin Palace and Stokehouse, to name a few. In the ’90s and early 2000s,

he worked with a staggering 150 venues, and says differentiation was, and still is,

key. “It is really important each restaurant has a different theme or look,” he says.

their brand. The waterfront venues

synonymous with generous arrangements that usually follow a coastal/tropical aesthetic. For co-founder Andrew

Goldsmith, the benefit of flowers is fourfold. “Flowers and plants always add an

element of freshness, which is important to the feel of the café and the whole

experience,” he says. “Boathouse cafés

can be quite chaotic, and the flowers have

flowers help define a brand and nudge it in front of the competition. “You can

tell the difference when you walk into a

restaurant without artificial flowers,” says

opportunity can help individuals develop new skills in the workplace by observing a florist at work or even having a go themselves. TV presenter and journalist Melissa Leong embraced the opportunity to learn more about floristry when she was asked to create arrangements for The Mayfair in Melbourne (closed late 2018). “Learning how to arrange was an awesome process for me,” says Leong. “I am by no means a professional, but learning something new helps you gain an appreciation for the real talent. Where a space calls for it, flowers can be integral to transforming the atmosphere of a venue. In terms of art, as ephemeral as the food is, so, too, are flowers.”

buildings or boatsheds, and they add a lot of life to those structures.”

a stellar experience. Bakker recalls an

agrees with Bakker’s sentiment, and says

arrangements as an educational

do. We’ve also always had older, imperfect

complementary to the people who own the Chroma Studio’s Nadene Sachinidis

host of benefits, but looking at floral

have a lot of love and care for what we

Whether you realise it or not, floral

venues and the style of the venues.”

Relying on a professional florist has a

a calming effect and show our guests we

“The flowers at Stokehouse are different to

what I do at Gin Palace. I try to make them

Developing new skills

arrangements can help set the tone for installation at the now-shuttered Hairy

Canary that showcased discarded jumper

cables and green tomatoes that gradually turned red, encouraging customers to

pluck them from the arrangement. “As the week went on, they ripened, and people would pick them as they walked up and

March 2019 | 31

FEATURE // Floral arrangements

“I’ve always thought it was strange people were obsessed with seasonality on a plate but could care less about using orchids from Singapore.” – Joost Bakker

FEATURE // Floral arrangements down the stairs. Surprising people with odd combinations is really good.”

Stokehouse in Melbourne may be revered

for its waterfront views, but the restaurant offers so much more, and is committed to offering customers the complete

package. “When you think about a total

A Joost Bakker installation at Stokehouse

service, setting, customer engagement

the Boathouse’s accountants that floral

Haandel. “Interior, food and furniture

spend. “In the first eight years, we never

dining experience, you have to consider and interaction,” says manager Hugh van are all ‘constructed’ in a way and lose

naturality. Joost’s installations are living,

transformative experiences which generally evolve over the duration of the display.”

Van Haandel likens Bakker’s installations

to pieces of art that generate curiosity and a sense of wonder from the viewer. “His

installation for the Australian Open was

created out of leeks with a beautiful floral stem and top which I hadn’t known about until I saw it myself,” says van Haandel.

“He even had a bunch of carrots that were borderline half a metre and overflowing. The installations encourage customers to engage with the environment, staff

and their dining companion, ultimately creating a learning curve.”

There’s no doubt floral arrangements are a costly venture for restaurateurs, but

it’s important to look at the core benefits instead of seeing flashing dollar signs. Goldsmith jokes he tried to persuade 32 | Hospitality

arrangements were classified as marketing spent money on marketing — I always felt the flowers were our marketing budget,” he says. The group currently operates four Boathouse cafés in Sydney along

with Barrenjoey House, and established a

team of full-time florists once the business

Joost grows

The Boathouse

more than

Group uses

full-time florists and three casuals,” says

1,000 flowers

flowers in

on his

a number

going to improve the offering. You have

6-acre farm

of dishes

started scaling up. “We’ve got three

Goldsmith. “We needed a team who were to invest the money to attract customers — there’s so much competition and it’s

important to make sure you’re venue of choice for people’s day-to-day lives.” The amount of money invested all

depends on the size and theme of a venue.

Your venue could need larger arrangements throughout or one statement piece at the

bar — it’s all relative. “A hole-in-the-wall café may want to change weekly, but they might

just need one simple vase at the front,” says Sachinidis. “A restaurant with several areas might need different arrangements.” The

7 Stokehouse

Joost

change

composts

their

arrangements

installations

at the end of

every week

their life

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• Damien Pignolet - Industry Legend, NSW • Troy Crisante - Quay, NSW • Jo Barrett - Oakridge, VIC • Louis Tikaram - E.P. & L.P., Los Angeles, USA

FRONT ROW:

It promises to be a very happy, prosperous and extremely delicious “YEAR of the PIG” for these talented PorkStars. Pork allows chefs to explore and indulge their imaginations like no other meat. Be a PorkStar. And get some Pork on your menu.

FEATURE // Floral arrangements florist also says selecting lower-cost flowers such as natives are a good option for those with tight budgets.

Restaurant environments rank highly on

the wear and tear scale, and not every plant or flower can cope with the setting. Bakker

says there are plenty of flowers he can’t use

due to lifespan, size or simply because some venues are just too hot. “Neil [Perry] is

adamant Rosetta has a vase of garden roses, but they need to be done twice a week

because they only last a few days,” he says.

A Nadene Sachinidis arrangement Signature tropical arrangement at a Boathouse café

When quizzed on the most durable plants,

Bakker names eucalyptus as one of the top

picks. “It drinks a lot of water, but as long as the water is up, it’s really resilient,” he says. “Foliage has also begun trending. Before,

it was difficult to charge a restaurant for a vase of foliage because it was understood you needed to have a floral component.

Now, people are totally fine with paying the same amount for a beautiful vase of

foliage.” As for a clever solution for small or awkward venues? “I use suspension a lot,

which means restaurants don’t lose space,” says Bakker.

Too much air con or not enough air con

can also wreak havoc with arrangements,

The concept of seasonality is rampant in the

right direction. Bakker and Sachinidis have

chock-full of people. Like Bakker,

everything from food and wine to furniture

adopting a ‘local’ mindset across their

and the same goes for a venue that’s

Sachinidis recommends Aussie natives

which are generally long-lasting and says tropical flowers are also a good option. “Combinations of natives and tropicals

work well and you can get a week or two

out of them,” she says. “Anything does best when you care for it, and simple things

like changing the water and giving them a

fresh cut means people can get a few extra days out of an arrangement.” 34 | Hospitality

culinary industry, and the notion is applied to and the plates you eat your food off. Yet, imported flowers are still found in many

restaurants, which has Bakker perplexed.

“I’ve always thought it was strange people were obsessed with seasonality on a plate

but could care less about using orchids from

both noticed a movement of operators venue. “Businesses are thinking more

about sustainability and people are starting to see the beauty in foliage and locally grown stuff that’s easier to access,” says Sachinidis.

The next time you think about updating

Singapore,” he says. “I find that people who

your menu, changing your furniture or even

about what goes in a vase.”

floral arrangements to the equation. As the

really care about presentation also care

But things seem to be heading in the

taking on a renovation, don’t forget to add saying goes, a little goes a long way. ■

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FEATURE // Travel

Global approach The consensus is in — if you’re a chef, you’ve gotta travel. WORDS Annabelle Cloros

SOME CHEFS THINK of the kitchen as a

else is out there,” says Kojima. Merivale

mandatory for me to escape for a week

stress box fuelled by repetition and pressure.

an open mind can make all the difference.

something else. The creative juices start

hub of inspiration, while others look at it as a Chefs are creative individuals by nature,

and inspiration is not always found within

four walls, which is why travel can provide the opportunity to hit reset, collaborate

with other professionals and discover a new

realm of cuisines and techniques. Hospitality talks to Merivale’s Dan Hong, Sokyo’s Chase

executive chef Dan Hong agrees, and says “As a chef, you never stop learning, but

you can only learn so much in your own

country,” says Hong. “It’s really important to open yourself up to different cultures,

and food is part of that. I am continually inspired every day I’m eating overseas.”

if you happen to hate the journey, which

is the case for Sokyo executive chef Chase Kojima. “I know there are a lot of people

who love to travel, but I don’t like flying,”

“My vision has always been global — I want the whole world as my grab bag.” – Christine Manfield

he admits. “Still, travelling overseas at

chef and restaurateur running acclaimed

and I know it’s benefited me. I’m a creative

West in London and Universal in Sydney,

least twice a year is something I always do chef, so I need to explore and see new

things. If you stay somewhere too long, your creativity dies.”

Staying put can be a blessing and

a curse. While familiar surroundings can be comforting, it’s easy to slip

into a rut. “Living in Australia is very

comfortable, but you don’t get to try a

lot of international food because of how quarantine works — you forget what 36 | Hospitality

kitchen day in, day out, I think it shows in the food.”

Australian chefs cooking overseas and vice

in hand. After more than 30 years as a

immediate surroundings is a must — even

If you’re stuck in the same shitty little

world, and says food and travel go hand

— personally and professionally.

occupations where getting out of your

you learn and use it to grow your business.

Collaborations and pop-ups have become

because she wanted to explore the

The role of a chef is one of the few

flowing again and you can bring back what

Christine Manfield got into cooking

Kojima and chef and author Christine

Manfield about what travel means to them

or a few days and throw myself into

venues including Paramount, East@

Manfield’s career as a restaurateur came

full circle with the closure of Universal in

2013. But her passion for travel has never wavered, and has gone on to become a crucial part of daily life. “My favourite motto is, ‘Life starts at the end of your

comfort zone’,” says Manfield. “I’m not

interested in being mediocre — I’m always up for a challenge and that’s what travel provides. When I had restaurants, it was

commonplace in the industry, with

versa. Life took a turn for Manfield when

she chose to take a two-pronged approach to the next stage of her career as a pop-up

aficionado and gastronomic tour leader. “I knew I’d be a little bit busy, but I thought my working life would be very different

to how it has transpired,” she says. “When I chose to step way from Universal, the

phenomena of pop-up was just starting

and I tapped into it and ran with it.” The

chef now hosts events around the globe in locations such as London and India. “My

forays into cooking for the public are now done through my events, whether it’s in

Australia or elsewhere,” she says. “I really like being able to collaborate and the

teamwork and culture that come with it. I think the industry — on a global

scale — has shifted. Chefs are now

working together instead of being in a corner, separated.”

FEATURE // Travel

The chef recommends buying her guidebook

A Personal Guide to India and Bhutan to find the best places to eat.

Manfield will soon host events in Kolkata,

Christine Manfield

Delhi and London to launch the new edition of her book Tasting India, and says it’s

important to be selective when it comes to

choosing pop-up venues. “I only work with

restaurateurs and chefs who are good mates or people who are on the same page,” she says. “Having realistic expectations, doing the groundwork and establishing close

“I think the industry — on a global scale — has shifted. Chefs are now working together instead of being in a corner, separated.” – Christine Manfield

liaisons with the chefs and team before you get there [is key]. I’ve already visited any country I work in as a traveller, so I have

some idea about what I’m stepping into. My vision has always been global — I want the whole world as my grab bag.”

March 2019 | 37

FEATURE // Travel

Chase Kojima’s Japan checklist • Kappabashi Street in Tokyo for kitchenware and plastic food. • Kamata knife shop. “The service is really good and they’re used to people who speak English. They can modify knives and put an edge on it and they also have bags and sharpening stones.” • Den restaurant in Shibuya. “When I go to Japan, I eat at Zaiyu Hasegawa’s restaurant. He’s super nice and always shares what he’s working on.”

A ceramics shop in Kappabashi Street

“I’m a creative chef, so I need to explore and see new things, which gives me a head start. If you stay somewhere

months including a collaboration with

Chivas Regal dubbed The Blend which featured dishes from Hong, Jowett Yu from Ho Lee Fook in Hong Kong and Louis Tikaram from E.P & L.P in Los

too long, your creativity dies.”

Angeles. The restaurant most recently

– Chase Kojima

Abergel from Hong Kong’s Yardbird

Sokyo has hosted pop-up events

with industry connections, and Kojima

hosted a one-day event with Matt yakitori bar.

Travelling provides chefs with the

says there are a number of yet-to-

opportunity to make connections and

2019. One such venutre is the newly

kitchens. Hong recently visited countries

be-revealed plans in the pipeline for

announced restaurant Chuuka, which

Kojima will lead alongside Lee Ho Fook's Victor Liong. “I have friends who are pastry chefs and we’ve held dessert

collaborations before,” he says. “Chefs and people who work in the industry

are willing to share.” Hong’s restaurant

Ms.G’s has also hosted pop-ups in recent 38 | Hospitality

learn how other professionals run their including Korea, Japan, Mexico, Hong Kong, Spain and France, and the chef

estimates he travels three to four times a

year — including stints in other kitchens. When asked if he’s picked up any new

skills from his travels, Hong mentions his

time at Michelin-star restaurant Duddell’s

in Hong Kong. “When I did a pop-up there,

Chase Kojima

FEATURE // Travel Tamagoyaki at the Tokyo fish market

I learnt so much about how a traditional

also technique. There’s a lot of equipment

from cooking techniques to the way they

level and discipline of mastering one dish

fine-dining Cantonese kitchen is operated, do service,” he says.

Inspiration and discovering new

in Japan that maximises time, but the skill is shocking and surprising.”

Of course, travel doesn’t come cheap,

techniques isn’t just confined to a

and money can often be the key reason

from simply wandering around and taking

Some restaurants provide chefs with travel

professional environment and can hit you

in the sights and smells of a new location. Kojima has visited Japan a number of

times and was struck by a woman cooking tamagoyaki (layered egg omelette) at

the fish market in Tokyo. “I struggled to

cook that [dish] for a long time — I think

everyone does — and the lady was cooking six at once while serving me,” he says.

“She had a good equipment line up, but it’s 40 | Hospitality

why chefs aren’t able to head overseas.

opportunities as incentives and others send

employees to other countries for educational

purposes. Kojima’s employer covers two trips a year in the name of research, with the chef recently travelling to China in preparation for the launch of a Chinese–Japanese

restaurant called Chuuka. “I’m working on a restaurant for The Star, so I wanted to

go to China to understand more about the

“There’s a lot of equipment in Japan that maximises time, but the skill level and discipline of mastering one dish is shocking and surprising.” – Chase Kojima

FEATURE // Travel

Dan Hong’s South Korea picks • Gwangjang Market in Seoul • Noryangjin Fish Market in Dongjak-gu • Try and find a local to show you around

Noryangjin market

cuisine because there are a lot of

things I don’t know.” Kojima says

he’s given a fair budget when he’s travelling overseas for work and

“Every time I travel overseas, I am influenced.”

While Hong, Manfield and

also has the opportunity to bring a

Kojima are frequent globetrotters,

do is eat,” he admits.

discover something new. Australia

staff member on trips, too. “All we As the executive chef of the

Establishment precinct, Mr

Wong and Ms.G’s, Hong works across a number of cuisines

from Cantonese and Japanese to Vietnamese and contemporary

Australian. The chef says certain meals may be covered by

Merivale if they directly relate to work. Hong travelled to Europe last year to dine at some of the

you don’t always have to go far to is home to some of the world’s best chefs and offers a diverse

range of cuisines. “Australia has a

true reflection of multiculturalism in our food — we are spoilt with what’s available to us,” says

Manfield. “You don’t have to go overseas, but you have to go

outside of your own little patch on a regular basis.”

world’s best restaurants, racking

Whether it’s taking a few days

stars on the trip. “I went to

restaurants and new areas or

up an impressive 36 Michelin

France, Spain and Denmark and

finally got to eat at all the gastro

temples I dreamed of when I was

a fine dining apprentice,” he says. 42 | Hospitality

out of the kitchen to visit local a few weeks to travel to other

countries, travel is vital for getting ahead in an industry that thrives on creativity. ■

Dan Hong Photography by Nikki To

FEATURE // Kids menus

Child’s play Kids are dining out more than ever — here’s why you should think twice about introducing a dedicated menu for the little ones. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Simon Shiff for Fatto

KIDS ARE PART and parcel of dining out in

an older generation who were patrons of

the cornerstone of community,” says Smyth.

a wide range of age groups, from toddlers to

developed and we learnt more about our

fight for their parent’s attention, so we

2019, and most restaurants and cafés attract adults and everything in between. Tantrums and hungry mouths aside, what if there was a way to ensure a seamless dining

experience for the whole family? Introducing a dedicated kids menu opens up your venue to a wider customer base that values good service and consistency.

James Kummrow never thought much

about kids menus until he had children of

the arts,” says Kummrow. “But as the venue customer base, we wanted to make sure we were faithful to our original brief and loyal to our regulars. The Arts Centre puts on

shows during the holidays, and we’d have

number of tastes and dietary requirements

and I know what it’s like finding something to keep them happy and well fed.”

The Unicorn Hotel in Paddington,

dining, which is a notion Kenny Graham

opened, the concept was closely related to 44 | Hospitality

option for families is a great pleasure.”

out with children — I have kids of my own

a struggle, and the Fatto Bar & Cantina creating a dedicated offering. “When Fatto

them. Offering an affordable and delicious

Kids are notorious for being picky eaters,

been important to cater to families who go

Sydney, isn’t the first place that springs to

chef quickly realised the importance of

wanted to create something special just for

a line of mums and kids wanting to eat. It’s

his own. Finding a family-friendly venue that catered to children was becoming

“Kids get forgotten about in the constant

and creating a menu that caters to a

can be a challenge. It’s also important to design an offering that falls in line with your venue’s direction.

Kummrow wanted to create dishes that

mind when you think about family-friendly

were unique to Fatto and appealing to

and Jake Smyth wanted to change when

the list. “Essentially, the kids menu is the

they relaunched the venue in 2015. “Great

pubs are about community, and families are

kids, which led to pasta and pizza topping greatest hits,” says the chef. “The top

seller is pasta with butter and cheese, but

FEATURE // Kids menus

Fatto use

The Unicorn

kid-sized

created a

crockery

colouring in

for kids

book with a

dishes

graffiti artist

Pasta with

Chicken

cheese is

nuggets with

the #1 dish for

chips are the

kids at Fatto

top seller at The Unicorn

Kenny Graham and Jake Smyth

most of the time we serve the cheese on

the side because some kids want to do it

themselves or they’ve changed their mind and don’t want what they usually have.” Fatto also offers half portions of regular

menu items, but Kummrow says families will usually order from the kids menu

or share smaller plates. There’s also the

option of a $20 meal deal with includes a main, side, gelato and soft drink. “It’s the biggest seller off the kids menu and they really enjoy the treat,” says the chef.

The kids menu at The Unicorn revolved

around the concept of hidden vegetables to

keep “parents on side”, with dishes including sausage with mash, peas and gravy; chicken nuggets with chips and beans, pasta bowls

and a fish of the day with carrots and green beans. The venue also offers their own

March 2019 | 45

FEATURE // Kids menus

The Unicorn’s menu

“Having the pub full of young kids really creates a great energy, and happy parents breeds happy punters at other non-kid-friendly times.” – Jake Smyth

version of a meal deal priced at $14

try to regularly change the menu,

demand for the combo has been

says Kummrow. “It’s typically a

for a main and dessert. Smyth says growing and parents have been

receptive. “Getting an affordable and generous option in front of parents

is popular,” says Smyth. There’s also a kids eat free night on Wednesdays from 5–8 pm, which was a strategic move from the team. “As parents,

we wanted [to go with] a mid-week night as we know how taxing it can be — Wednesday will hopefully be

a day that can create some relief for mums and dads.”

Altering dishes can be a risky move, but it’s important for chefs to

treat the kids offering in the same manner as the standard menu. “I 46 | Hospitality

but it’s really driven by best sellers,” margherita pizza and spaghetti

with butter and parmesan.” The venue also runs specials during school holidays, which are a

drawcard to customers in the

area. “We did a Nutella pizza with marshmallows, strawberries and

mint for World Chocolate Day and we’re also working on some pizza

masterclasses later in the year.” The Unicorn take a similar approach

to changing the menu, but stress

the importance of continuity. “We change it from time to time, but kids are fickle creatures of habit

— so stability is pretty important!” says Smyth.

Fatto’s menu

NEW

FEATURE // Kids menus

Fatto’s James Kummrow

Change can also be good for chefs,

who often grow tired of repetition in the

kitchen. At Fatto, the introduction of a kids menu led to new training opportunities

in the kitchen and on the floor. Front of house ask customers if they’d like kids meals served with adult meals and to

confirm any dietary requirements. “Our

chefs know what to do and are trained to

check dishes before they leave the kitchen

— we have to be careful about serving hot plates and hot portions,” says Kummrow. “We’re also conscious of delivering food

you a quick buck — you’re right — just not

“I think it leaves the opportunity for repeat

can offer a portal for parents to return to

done for profit — it’s about the long-term

in the way you might think. Kids menus

the restaurant at a later date sans children and helps establish a brigade of loyal

customers. “It’s less about having a super profitable price point,” says Smyth. “The whole exercise is about creating a wider

community and providing a fun night for

families. Having the pub full of young kids really creates a great energy, and happy

parents breeds happy punters at other non-

business,” says the chef. “It’s certainly not

goal of trying to get business into the venue. If you can express that sense of hospitality to everyone that walks in the door, you’re passing on the values of the business and

they will put you front of mind if they want to go out again. Maybe they will return

another day without kids and have a second glass of wine with their meal.”

There are a number of benefits that

kid-friendly times.”

come with introducing a kids menu — the

gets out of the kitchen asap.”

profitable avenue for Fatto, but the chef

a meaningful connection with the

If you’re thinking a kids menu can make

creating a positive experience for families.

to the table quickly and ensuring the food

48 | Hospitality

Kummrow admits the kids menu isn’t a

is firmly focused on the bigger picture by

potential for repeat business, establishing

community and attracting a new market of diners is just the beginning. ■

ADVERTORIAL // Moro Extra Virgin Olive Oil

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CHEF LENO LATTARULO got his

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Lattarulo took off on a trip to

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no wonder choosing the right

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According to the chef, olive

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March 2019 | 49

FEATURE // Turkish

50 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Turkish

Rich

traditions Turkish cuisine in Australia is finally catching up to the standards set in its homeland. WORDS Madeline Woolway TURKISH FOOD HAS a long and rich history with countless

influences, resulting in a complex cuisine. Here in Australia, though, its presence is comparatively recent and plagued by late-night

kebabs, gözleme and Halal snack packs, which ultimately undercut

the plethora of tradition these dishes were founded upon. But a new generation of Turkish chefs is challenging the status quo, working

together to build a better understanding of the ancient cuisine in an Australian context.

“It’s a fusion of different things that have all come together,”

says Kemal Barut from Melbourne’s Lezzet Anatolian Kitchen.

“Turkey was previously known as the Ottoman Empire — it had an abundance of different cultures, religions and cooking styles that came together.”

Barut has recently teamed up with Tulum’s Coskun Uysal, with

the pair united by a common goal; the respect and knowledge of

their country’s food and its background. “Our biggest challenge is

trying to educate a market that’s been bombarded by kebabs,” says Barut. “In the past 10 years, it has come a long way with a lot of talented chefs wanting to take our cuisine to the next level.”

Chef Murat Ovaz, who hails from a small town on the coast

of the Black Sea, opened Yagiz, his homage to regional Turkish cuisines, in 2017. “Turkish cuisine is varied, rich and born

out of many influences,” he says. “There are many types of

‘regional’ cuisines using ingredients that can be found in each part of Turkey.”

March 2019 | 51

FEATURE // Turkish

“Turkish cuisine is varied, rich and born out of many influences.” – Murat Ovaz

Coskun Uysal and Kemal Barut

Ovaz has made it his mission to explore

wintertime, we’ll still use seafood but

the menu at Yagiz every three months.

marinated tuna (ton baligi) is served with

these distinct regional iterations, changing With each season, Ovaz and his team work to challenge the prevailing representation of Turkish food in Australia. “Turkish

it will be grilled or pan fried.” At Yagiz, bulgur and pickled cucumber; another

common element found in Turkish cuisine. Preservation techniques are apparent

cuisine in Australia is seen as very casual

throughout the cuisine, with many

no fuss. We are trying to deliver traditional

“The ingredients are the same throughout

and basic,” he says. “Our mojo is fine food, yet sophisticated dishes in a contemporary environment.”

Barut says natural gas was only

introduced to Turkey in the past two

products realised via pickling or curing. the year but in different forms,” says

Barut. “It’s a cuisine that relies heavily on preserved goods.”

Everything from vegetables to beef and

decades. “It’s normally via cylinder not

seafood can be preserved. “A very famous

have a wood-fired oven. We cook probably

“It’s a cured bonito. You take all the blood

mainline,” he says. “So a lot of restaurants about 60 per cent [of dishes] in the woodfired oven.”

Styles of cooking tend to vary with

the seasons. Meats are often braised

throughout the winter and grilled in summer, while raw seafood is also

common in the warmer months. “In

the summertime, we have marinated

tuna, similar to tartare,” says Ovaz. “In 52 | Hospitality

A dish from Lezzet Anatolian Kitchen

dish we do at Yagiz is lakerda,” says Ovaz. out of the fish and cover with salt, which you change every week for three months to get

the perfect result. Once it’s cured, you don’t

need to do much else; it’s served simply with lemon juice and olive oil, capers and red

onion.” At his restaurant, Ovaz steps it up a

notch by curing the fish in raki, a traditional liquor often served alongside lakerda and isot (black pepper) oil.

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FEATURE // Turkish

Turkish wines The region of Turkey has a millennia-long history of winemaking. “There is archaeological evidence going back 5000 years,” says sommelier Christian Maier. Maier, who is responsible for the wine list at Yagiz, suggests the region is unfairly overlooked, arguing it produces some exciting wines. “Öküzgözü is as if Cabernet and Nebbiolo had a child — it’s got the assertive tannins of Cabernet with the expressive, juicy aromatic power that Nebbiolo has.” A more mainstream red is bogazkere, which is similar to the Australian Cabernets in terms of the structure of tannins. “Bogazkere means throat burner in Turkish because of the tannin and structure. But a lot [of bogazkere] are made in a really soft way and are approachable.” White varietals are also produced, with Narince a common example. “It’s a little bit like the Chardonnay of Turkey,” says Maier. The challenge of pairing Turkish food with wine lies in its spicy and sweet characteristics. “The reds partner relatively easy and can cope with the level of spice,” says Maier. “When we get to lamb or kofta, mildly tannic wines go well. Where it gets hard is when they use feta or honey — we have to rely on a white that has a bit of sweetness and richness.” Ultimately, Maier encourages venues serving Turkish cuisine to

A dish from Lezzet Anatolian Kitchen

“Our biggest challenge is trying to educate a market that’s been bombarded by kebabs.” – Kemal Barut

source wines from the region, too. “We can never beat the local food and wine match because they’ve lived together for thousands of years,” he says. “You can easily have a nice dry narince with grilled sardines or Öküzgözü with chargrilled lamb and eggplant. With my sommelier hat on, I could find other pairings, but from an emotional sense of view and authenticity, they are so comfortable together.”

54 | Hospitality

Regional variations aside, a few key

“My family is from central Turkey and

ingredients abound throughout Turkey. Spices

there’s not very much seafood,” says Barut.

ingredients such as cumin and chilli as vitally

dairy probably make up 20 per cent of what

are particularly prevalent, with Ovaz listing important. In contrast to the perception

Turkish is a meat-heavy cuisine, vegetables

are relied upon throughout the country, with

“There are a lot vegetables and meat and

we do. It’s very herb-heavy. Meat is a delicacy and is something we don’t have very often.”

tomatoes and eggplants ubiquitous. Onion

For chefs including Barut, Uysal and

oil. While dairy products such as cheese are

traditions. “It’s a common mission,” says

and garlic are also widespread, as is olive

typically consumed only in small amounts, yoghurt is common.

Ovaz, making progress is about honouring Barut. “If we jump over it together, it will be easier.” ■

BEHIND THE SCENES // Video

The Apolloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

barbecued calamari with pickled green tomatoes and squid ink An in-depth look at Hospitalityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s masterclass series.

HEAD CHEF STEFANO MARANO opts to use

baby squid from Queensland for their tender and juicy properties. The chef cooks the squid close to the flame to ensure caramelisation and depth of flavour. You can also make the pickled green tomatoes and diced mandarin in advance.

Ingredients Three 10cm squid 1 green tomato Squid ink Salt and pepper Sugar Water Olive oil Chardonnay vinegar White balsamic vinegar Hollowed mandarin

Method Thinly slice green tomatoes and combine with white balsamic vinegar, salt, pepper, water, Chardonnay vinegar and sugar. Place in bag and vacuum seal via machine or blanch in liquid and refresh in ice water. Hollow out mandarin and blanch three times in boiling water. Ice down after each blanch and scrape out pith. Julienne the mandarin before moving to a brunoise. Season squid with salt and olive oil and grill for 3-4 minutes. Split squid down the middle and slice lengthways in 1mm strips. Place squid in a bowl and dress with olive oil, salt and 1/4 of mandarin pieces. Mix squid ink with salt, white balsamic vinegar and water. Arrange tomato slices in a circle on the plate and place squid on top. Dress with squid ink and garnish with fennel tops and olive oil. Watch the video now at hospitalitymagazine.com.au

March 2019 | 55

EQUIPMENT // Mortar and pestle

Mortar and pestle From crushing spices to making pesto, the mortar and pestle is one of the kitchen’s most versatile pieces of equipment.

Grind in a circular motion

Use for spices, nuts, seeds

Gently tap to break

and herbs

and release aromas of ingredients

Marble, Thai granite, ceramic and wood are the most common materials

Don’t overcrowd

Mortar and pestles date

the mortar,

back to 35,000BC and

ingredients should

were originally used for

form a single layer

medical purposes

Gordon Ramsay says it’s an essential for every kitchen and allows chefs to remain in control

Lucio’s in Paddington serve

and achieve perfect textures

Ligurian pesto at the table with a carrara marble mortar and pestle

Wood

56 | Hospitality

Marble

Granite

Ceramic

Small in size -

Big in stature The Kompatto oven features a much smaller steam generator than those fitted on traditional combi ovens. The micro generator reduces energy consumption to just 1 kW. Overall saving is considered both in terms of money and environmental friendliness.

In one word -

Kompatto

In the modern catering and food service sector, there is a capital element to be taken into account: space organisation. Space has been getting smaller and smaller in order to reduce operational costs. To address this requires a new way of thinking about a product: multi-function, efficient & space saving.

5 MINUTES WITH ... // Jimmy Garside

Jimmy Garside

The executive chef from Mary’s Pizzeria at The Lansdowne Hotel in Sydney spitballs about everything from trash to technique. I WAS DRAWN to the industry because

I love to learn. As a chef, there is always something to learn as techniques are

great produce and not [messing] around

ones, too. Both can be elevated to become

The concept behind traditional trash

together. Take fried chicken and caviar, for

with ingredients too much.

always changing. My proper start in

food is cheap, fast food that you eat while

Australia and worked at The Apollo with

to be crap. You can take it and make it

a kitchen was when I first came to

Jonathan Barthelmess. I was guided in

the importance of balancing dishes, using

“I don’t think it is that important to learn rules if they are somebody else’s.” 58 | Hospitality

lying in bed hungover. But it doesn’t have delicious. Our take is different; it’s using amazing ingredients and produce and

transforming them into something familiar but new.

It’s quite easy to find a balance when

you don’t look at trash food as sh*t food.

People need to understand that trash food

does not have to be bad. Pizza can be seen

as trash, but it isn’t when it is done right. It is easy to balance great products with bad

a hundred times better when they are put example. The balance is putting enough

of the bad with the good to create a killer dish that people want to shove in their gobs day or night, drunk or sober.

I don’t think it is that important to learn

rules if they are somebody else’s. I never

was trained; I went straight into a kitchen

and started cooking. You do need to grasp certain techniques like balancing dishes, seasoning, etcetera, but it’s more to do

with understanding how you want a dish to end up — how you get there is not as important as the end product. ■

rs e d dia a o F Le me b ial u P c # n so w llo

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✔ Should I stay, go or grow? How to call the next shot ✔ Putting the F into B: building a food proposition whatever your budget ✔ A year in 30 minutes: everything we learned in our first year, including The Camfield ✔ Winning with sports, gaming and entertainment ✔ Maximising media: nailing social media and digital ✔ Gaining, training and keeping staff in a high-turnover industry ✔ Grand Panel: everything you need to know about the year ahead Plus more to be revealed imminently

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Hospitality March 2019

Articles inside

Feature: Travel

Feature: Floral arrangements

Column: Troy Rhoades-Brown

Business Profile: Arepa Oz

FEATURE - Traceability