The glassware guide

Glassware is bound to break at some point, so it’s important to get your money’s worth while it’s still in good nick. We look at minimising risk, how to store glasses properly and the concept of a universal glass. By Annabelle Cloros.

David Chang recently shared an image on Instagram every operator can relate to — a breakage list. Snapped at Restaurant Barr in Denmark, the broken glasses form is split into three categories: what did I break? why did I break it? and who broke it. While it may seem a little stiff at first, the staff responses are all in good humour, with answers ranging from “I’m clumsy” to “manhandled it while polishing” and “black magic”.

Keeping track of breakages shows just how much money and stock is lost as soon as a glass hits the floor, which is why selecting the right glassware is simply good business.

Hospitality talks to Master Sommelier Benjamin Hasko from Luxury Beverage Group, wine writer and P&V Wine + Liquor Merchants partner Mike Bennie and wine critic Jancis Robinson about shape, durability and why you need to get rid of Champagne flutes — now.

CAN ONE SIZE FIT ALL?

Most venues stock dedicated Champagne, red and white glasses, but Jancis Robinson wanted to challenge the status quo by creating a wine glass suitable for all varietals. “I am above all a pragmatist,” says Robinson. “A different glass for each wine may increase potential pleasure by a few per cent, but who has the space to store multiple different sorts of wine glass?”

Jancis Robinson collection

The wine expert went on to create the Jancis Robinson collection with designer Richard Brendon which consists of a wine glass, water glass and two carafes, and says she’s yet to find a wine that’s not “flattered by them”. Each piece is mouth-blown by master craftspeople in Europe using bright lead-free glass, with the wine glass characterised by the ultra-fine tulip-shaped bowl which allows the wine to breathe. “[The] shape is pleasing to the eye, a pleasure to use and handle and a real complement to wines of all sorts,” says Robinson.

Benjamin Hasko says glass selection boils down to what the venue’s wineoffering is all about. “Riedel’s Chianti is a great white wine glass, but having a larger or some of the varietal-specific glasses do change the experience,” he says. “Having a fine lip on a wine glass also makes for a more luxurious experience.”

“A different glass for each wine may increase potential pleasure by a few per cent, but who has the space to store multiple different sorts of wine glass?” – Jancis Robinson

Bennie agrees, and says it’s up to the style of restaurant plus the depth of the wine list — but says clean glasses are a good start. “Short, sharp, casual dining can handle stemless glasses pretty well, while fancier dining experiences tend to need an array of glasses that suit individual wine styles,” he says. “But there’s nothing wrong with fun wines out of tumblers poured from carafes.”

USING RED GLASSES FOR WHITE AND VICE VERSA

Purists look away — the general consensus is red and white wines can be served from the same glass, which means you could get away with investing in a handful of glasses over a full range. It’s also important to understand that aromatics can be just as present or absent in both red and white varieties. “I see no reason at all why white wine should be served in a smaller glass than red,” says Robinson. “Some whites are more aromatic than some reds, but many whites are just as subtle as the average red wine and need just as much encouragement to express itself via a big bowl.”

Mike Bennie

Although glasses have been purpose-designed for particular wines, e.g. Chardonnay, Bordeuax, Pinot Noir, the concept of flexible glassware is one operators should get on board with. “Wine glasses can enhance a wine-drinking experience individually tailored to grape varieties or wine styles,” says Bennie, “but universal glassware is also a thing, used to be flexible with both whites and reds and anything in between.”

DITCHING CHAMPAGNE FLUTES

There’s a serious case for serving Champagne in a wine glass, and sommeliers around the globe are swapping out flutes for glasses. Due to the slender design of a flute, the consumer isn’t able to fully appreciate the aromas which are more accessible when using a wine glass. Sure, flutes look sophisticated and do a good job at keeping Champagne fizzy for longer, but is it worth the aromatic sacrifice — and the extra storage space? Bennie doesn’t think so. “Don’t. Use. Flutes,” he says. “The narrow aperture of the glass and the tall, slender shape do very little to actually enhance the drinking experience. A white wine glass is better for all fizzy wines, it lets aromas, bubbles and flavours express themselves more readily.”

Serving Champagne in flutes is also a matter of tradition, with towers of bubbles taking pride of place over the drink itself. “The idea was valuing bubbles above all else,” says Hasko, “but there’s been an increased respect for Champagne as a white wine, so serving it in a white wine glass is preferable. A white wine glass has a larger opening and it’s easier to see the complexities in the wine. It stops being so much about the bubbles and starts being about the wine.”

Jancis Robinson

Robinson has also noticed a shift when it comes to serving Champagne in alternative glassware. “Top producers of specialist wines such as Champagne and Sherry really want their wines to be served in a regular wine glass, not to be corralled into a special shape or size,” she says.

COST

The cost of glassware varies considerably, with some options going for a couple of bucks and others reaching upwards of $40 a pop. Unfortunately, restaurants go through a lot of glassware and clumsy staff and customers or poor-quality options can make a serious dent in your pocket. Look for high-quality glassware that’s durable and enjoyable to drink out of. “It’s venue dependent, but if it’s a 30-seat café with 60–100 wine glasses at $5 a glass, you could probably get away with $500 on glassware,” says Hasko. The Master Sommelier also suggests investing in durable glassware if operators don’t have time to train staff or have the proper equipment to polish glassware, which is often where accidental breakages occur.

Master Sommelier Benjamin Hasko

Before you splash out $30 per glass, you should seriously think about the cost of replacing expensive glassware. Sure, quality is important, but could a $5 glass do the same job? “The style of venue will dictate budget, but I would err on side of caution,” says Bennie. “Fancier glasses equal more expenses to replace, and they do break ...”

STORAGE

Taking care of glassware and storing it in the right place also plays a crucial role in ensuring longevity. Hasko says operators should invest in a dedicated storage area that’s not near passageways or food preparation areas such as the kitchen. “Store glasses in an odour-free place as they trap odours easily,” he says. “Food aroma molecules are heavier than the air, so when they settle in a wine glass, the wines could end up smelling like one of the dishes if they’re close to the kitchen.”

If you’re storing wine above a counter area, Bennie speaks perfect sense when he says it’s worth investing in good-quality racks that are balanced and sturdy.

Choosing the right glassware can be overwhelming, but it pays to do your research and consider a more progressive way of serving wines.