glassware
Jancis Robinson collection
The glassware guide Glassware is bound to break at some point, so it’s important to get your money’s worth while it’s still in good nick. We look at minimising risk, how to store glasses properly and the concept of a universal glass. By Annabelle Cloros.
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avid Chang recently shared an image on Instagram every operator can relate to — a breakage list. Snapped at Restaurant Barr in Denmark, the broken glasses form is split into three categories: what did I break? why did I break it? and who broke it. While it may seem a little stiff at first, the staff responses are all in good humour, with answers ranging from “I’m clumsy” to “manhandled it while polishing” and “black magic”. Keeping track of breakages shows just how much money and stock is lost as soon as a glass hits the floor, which is why selecting the right glassware is simply good business. Hospitality talks to Master Sommelier Benjamin Hasko from Luxury Beverage Group, wine writer and P&V Wine + Liquor Merchants partner Mike Bennie and wine critic Jancis Robinson about shape, durability and why you need to get rid of Champagne flutes — now.
CAN ONE SIZE FIT ALL?
“A different glass for each wine may increase potential pleasure by a few per cent, but who has the space to store multiple different sorts of wine glass?” – Jancis Robinson
Most venues stock dedicated Champagne, red and white glasses, but Jancis Robinson wanted to challenge the status quo by creating a wine glass suitable for all varietals. “I am above all a pragmatist,” says Robinson. “A different glass for each wine may increase potential pleasure by a few per cent, but who has the space to store multiple different sorts of wine glass?” The wine expert went on to create the Jancis Robinson collection with designer Richard Brendon which consists of a wine glass, water 18 Hospitality November 2018
glass and two carafes, and says she’s yet to find a wine that’s not “flattered by them”. Each piece is mouth-blown by master craftspeople in Europe using bright lead-free glass, with the wine glass characterised by the ultra-fine tulip-shaped bowl which allows the wine to breathe. “[The] shape is pleasing to the eye, a pleasure to use and handle and a real complement to wines of all sorts,” says Robinson. Benjamin Hasko says glass selection boils down to what the venue’s wine offering is all about. “Riedel’s Chianti is a great white wine glass, but having a larger or some of the varietal-specific glasses do change the experience,” he says. “Having a fine lip on a wine glass also makes for a more luxurious experience.” Bennie agrees, and says it’s up to the style of restaurant plus the depth of the wine list — but says clean glasses are a good start. “Short, sharp, casual dining can handle stemless glasses pretty well, while fancier dining experiences tend to need an array of glasses that suit individual wine styles,” he says. “But there’s nothing wrong with fun wines out of tumblers poured from carafes.”
USING RED GLASSES FOR WHITE AND VICE VERSA Purists look away — the general consensus is red and white wines can be served from the same glass, which means you could get away with investing in a handful of glasses over a full range. It’s also important to understand that aromatics can be just as present or absent in both red and white varieties. “I see no reason at all why white wine should be
