Hospitality November 2018

NO.749 NOVEMBER 2018

Antihero WHY PROVENANCE IS THE KEY TO CREATING ANTIPASTO THAT BEATS OUT THE COMPETITION

Ben Shewry at MAD Symposium THE ATTICA CHEF TACKLES SEXISM IN THE INDUSTRY

Sole

trader

CHEESE TARTS ONLY? HOW SINGLE-FOCUS VENUES ARE SHAKING UP THE INDUSTRY

Ed’s note

November Contents 4 In focus

6 Openings 7 Flavour of the month

8

8 Business profile 12 Column 16 Trends 18 Drinks 22 Best practice 24 2019 trends 30 Antipasto

I

t’s hard to believe it’s nearly the end of the year. While many businesses are winding down — the Hospitality team included!

— the industry is moving full steam ahead for the silly season, which brings many hungry diners keen to celebrate with food and drink.

The closure of 2018 has encouraged me to reflect back on how the culinary scene has evolved. We’ve seen the opening of cracker venues including A1 Canteen and Bert’s in Sydney along with Melbourne’s Sunda. A return to basics and seasonality seems to be the driving factor behind many restaurants that are championing simplicity and celebrating Australia’s enviable bounty of produce. We look at the trends you’ll be seeing in 2019 from page 24.

Attica’s Ben Shewry recently spoke at the MAD Symposium in Copenhagen where he addressed a horribly sexist message he was sent on Instagram. You can read the chef’s thoughts on gender inequality and kitchen culture from page 12 — it’s an emotive read that will make you think twice about your kitchen environment and perhaps even provide some practical tips to implement in the workplace.

This issue, we also look at the rise of single-focus venues, different takes on antipasto and the launch of deer milk in Australia.

Until next time, Annabelle Cloros Editor

42 36

34 Cooking classes 36 Single-focus venues

16 24

40 Shelf space 41 Diary 42 5 minutes with …

34 30

PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au

PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au

HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock cblacklock@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422.

JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au ADVERTISING NATIONAL Dan Shipley T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 dshipley@intermedia.com.au DESIGN Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au

hospitalitymagazine.com.au facebook.com/HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag SUBSCRIPTION RATES Australia: 1 year (10 issues) = $99.00 (inc GST) 2 years (20 issues) = $158.40 (inc GST) – Save 20% 3 years (30 issues) = $207.90 (inc GST) – Save 30%

SUBSCRIPTION RATES New Zealand 1 year (10 issues) = $109.00 Asia/Pacific 1 year (10 issues) = $119.00 Rest of World 1 year (10 issues) = $129.00

41 Bridge Road Glebe NSW 2037 Australia Tel: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419

Average Net Distribution Period ending 31 March 2018 – 11,337

DISCLAIMER This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.

Copyright © 2018 – The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd

November 2018 Hospitality 3

in focus

Lamb exports on the rise Australia is on top of the world when it comes to exporting lamb.

A

ustralia is the world’s leading exporter of lamb, according to the Red Meat Advisory Council’s State of the Industry 2018 report. Compiled by Meat & Livestock Australia (MLA), the report brought news of positive developments for Australian sheepmeat producers.

“In 2017, our industry was the lead exporter of sheepmeat in the world despite representing only 6 per cent of the global sheep flock,” says Minister for Agriculture and Water Resources David Littleproud.

Total sheepmeat production (lamb and mutton) was 697,655 tonnes carcass weight in 2017 — an increase of 2 per cent year-on-year, and 3 per cent above the five-year average.

The value of Australian sheepmeat (lamb and mutton) exports in 2017 was $3.04 billion — up 24 per cent year-on-year.

Production continues to be buoyed by export performance, with Australian lamb exports increasing 4 per cent year-on-year and 12 per cent on the five-year average to 250,798 tonnes shipped weight (swt) in 2017.

The US was the largest (in volume terms) destination for Australian lamb exports in 2017, at 55,158 tonnes swt. However, these figures are up just 1 per cent year-on-year compared to the next largest destination, China. Exports to China are up 23 per cent yearon-year, importing 48,209 tonnes swt in 2017.

The Middle East is another major export region for Australian lamb. In 2017, exports to countries within the region increased 3 per cent from the year prior to 63,757 tonnes swt.

Australian mutton exports were 146,873 tonnes swt in 2017, which is 11 per cent higher than the previous year, but 2 per cent lower than the five-year average.

The US lands in fourth spot when it comes mutton exports, importing 13,411 tonnes swt. China was Australia’s largest (in volume terms) export destination for mutton in 2017, at 34,985 tonnes swt.

Other key export destinations for Australian mutton were Malaysia (14,102 tonnes swt) and Saudi Arabia (13,936 tonnes swt). n 4 Hospitality November 2018

Total sheepmeat production in Australia increased 2 per cent year-on-year The value of Australian sheepmeat exports in 2017 was

$3.04 billion

Exports to China are up 23 per cent year-on-year

Perfect mozzarella, perfect pizza

SERVING SUGGESTION

Perfect Italiano Mozzarella is made for commercial kitchens, delivering the performance you know and trust.

Renowned for superior stretch and coverage with even blister and minimal oil-off, you can rely on Perfect Italiano Mozzarella to deliver perfect pizzas every time

anchorfp.com.au | CSAustralia@fonterra.com | 1300 738 484

Openings Some of the latest venues to swing open their doors in Australia’s foodservice scene.

1

Elichi

Black Rock, Melbourne Babu Ji and Piquancy’s Mani Waraich has expanded his Melbourne footprint with the opening of Elichi. Inspired by Waraich’s family recipes, dishes excite with unexpected twists in the form of ingredients not typically used in Indian cooking. Think roasted Jerusalem artichoke chaat with fried curry leaf, garlic labne and herb oil along with Podi-spiced calamari with pickled onion, shaved fennel and curry leaf aioli. Punit Fernandes (ex-Rockpool, Merrywell) has been appointed as head chef of the 70-seat restaurant which also features a dedicated lounge area for diners keen for drinks and snacks.

2

Lola’s Pantry

Kuluin, Queensland Ex-Urbane chef Alejandro Cancino has opened a new venue on the Sunshine Coast. Lola’s Pantry will provide a range of vegan dishes, with Argentinian-born Cancino eager to champion plant-based cuisine. The café will work hand-in-hand with local producers and Cancino’s existing company Fenn Foods, which produces vegan cheeses and condiments. Serving breakfast and lunch Tuesday to Saturday, the venue will also offer a comfort food menu on Friday nights and feast-style menu on Saturday nights.

3

2

Beijing Impression

Haymarket, Sydney The Northern Chinese eatery has opened its second Sydney venue in Market City’s recently transformed 1909 Dining Precinct. Beijing Impression will serve up a menu that balances sweet and savoury flavours, with a seasonal offering providing a contemporary take on some of the classics. Exclusive to the new venue is traditional fish head juice pancakes. The menu also features dishes such as fried rice appearing as honeycomb briquette set alight at the table — a dish so unique it was patented in China — and braised sea cucumbers with roast pork in secret sauce.

4

1

3

The Terrace Bar

Port Stephens, New South Wales Rick Stein has opened another Australian restaurant at the newly launched Bannisters Port Stephens. The Terrace Bar is all about casual dining, with baos, fish tacos, haloumi salad and burgers all on the menu. Stein has worked closely with head chef Mitchell Turner to design a seafoodfocused menu featuring Sydney rock oysters, local king prawns, fish and shellfish soup and his famous fish pie.

The restaurant has been designed by Romy Alwill, who has created a space inspired by earth and sea that features water-coloured Japanese wallpaper along with hints of Stein’s signature blue.

6 Hospitality November 2018

4

Flavour of the month A new milk has hit the market which can be used for sweet and savoury cooking across multiple cuisines.

Deer milk ORIGINS Deer milk is sourced from the South Island of New Zealand, and has recently debuted on the Australian market. The milk is produced by red deer that consume a natural grass diet and are free to roam the farmland.

The farmed deer produce around 1 litre of milk per day during the milking season, which is between November and February.

The product is sold in powdered form, and is the result of a partnership between Pamu and the McIntyre family, who are fifthgeneration farmers.

STORAGE Fresh deer milk has a shelf life of just two days, which is why it makes sense to spray-dry the milk and turn it into a powder that has an 18-month lifespan. The milk is also pasteurised during the process, which is a food safety requirement in New Zealand. The powder does not contain any additives and preservatives, and is made from 100 per cent deer milk.

Supplying deer milk in a powder form provides chefs with flexibility when using the product, minimises wastage and ensures supply all year round.

Given the product is naturally rich in fats, it’s recommended chefs refrigerate the powder below four degrees Celsius. Once rehydrated, the product should be stored in the fridge and consumed within two days.

FLAVOUR PROFILE Deer milk has double the amount of fat and protein of cow’s milk, making it rich and creamy.

It leaves a velvety smooth texture on the palate that is full of flavour. White in colour, deer milk also offers floral and nutty notes on the nose.

CULINARY USE Deer milk is a culinary first, giving chefs an opportunity to experiment with a truly new ingredient. In New Zealand, deer milk initially found its home in the luxury dessert space, but chefs are now using it in main or savoury

Image credit Pamu

dishes along with cocktails.

The structure of deer milk is different, with protein and fat working together to give a unique cooking and eating experience. Deer milk is suited to sauces or desserts such as ice cream, panna cotta, yoghurt and crème brûlee.

When making crème brûlee, you would normally have equal quantities of milk and cream. When using deer milk to make crème brulee, no cream is needed to get a velvety texture with a distinct flavour profile.

Founder of Brasserie Bread, Michael Klausen, recently experimented with deer milk and found baking with the product created soft, enriched bread. “Deer milk works really well in bread baking and shows great potential for future use,” he says.

Deer milk can be used as a feature ingredient across all types of cuisines and in a multitude of uses.

Information courtesy of Straight To The Source and Pamu. n November 2018 Hospitality 7

business profile

Poached marron

Catalina Catalina is close to celebrating its 25-year anniversary, but it hasn’t all been smooth sailing for the Sydney stalwart. Co-owner Judy McMahon speaks to Hospitality about running a business with your spouse, overcoming adversity and why you shouldn’t get her started on hiring chefs. By Annabelle Cloros.

W

aterfront dining has a certain stigma attached to it, no matter where you go. It’s almost as if an ocean view translates to average or overpriced food, and venues can get away with it thanks to their prime location. It’s rare for a restaurant to offer a menu that rivals the scenery, but Catalina serves up dishes that are just as good as the view.

Catalina owners Judy and Michael McMahon met in a restaurant before they decided to team up — in business and in life. From Berowra Waters Inn to Barrenjoey House, it seems dining by the sea was always in the pipeline for the duo.

Being in the restaurant game for so long means Judy has seen a lot of change, both within her own restaurant and the industry in general. The Catalina co-owner discusses what it means to be a woman in hospitality, remaining fluid in a competitive marketplace, the importance of social media and marketing and why repeat diners should always be taken care of.

LAUNCHPAD Judy admittedly started in restaurants by accident while she was attending university in New Zealand, and continued working in hospitality when she moved to Australia. “I loved the contact with people and really enjoyed it,” she says. “I realised I loved good food and good wine, so it was a natural thing to keep doing.”

Front of house was a good fit for Judy, and life really kicked into gear when she started at Berowra Waters Inn where she became the restaurant’s first female waitress. “The owners Gay and Tony Bilson loved 8 Hospitality November 2018

Pan-fried quail

business profile

Judy and Michael later sold the two restaurants in 1988 and worked for Bilson’s until 1994 when they purchased Catalina.

FAMILY AFFAIR Judy and Michael have worked together since the ’70s, but being married to your business partner naturally comes with ebbs and flows.

“He’s been quoted as saying we have been married for 76 years instead of 38 years,” says Judy. “Sometimes the boundaries are very blurred between our business and private lives. Because the boundaries are blurred, and I see myself as an equal of his, it can sometimes be hard to establish ‘who’s the boss’ — I think that’s probably the biggest issue.

We just have to deal with that and respect each other’s views.”

In the midst of opening and running Catalina, Judy and Michael had two children who now work at the restaurant. But it wasn’t straight into the family business for Kate and James. “We insisted they go to university after school, but neither of them really had their heart in it,” says Judy. “They both worked at other venues in Sydney, but Kate never really intended on coming to work for us. I think James always wanted to work here, though.”

Kate and James are both managers at Catalina, and have the unique experience of growing up in a restaurant, both on the floor and as diners. “They bring completely different attitudes to the business,” says Judy. “They can work in partnership like Michael and I have and we can see a succession plan — it’s a pretty good future scenario.”

Crispy skin Murray cod

“We would rather give an existing customer a special gift for their birthday or give them an offer to encourage them to return than someone we have never seen before.”

– Judy McMahon everything French, and the French way back then was all men on the floor,” says Judy. “They had some time closed, but when they reopened, they didn’t have enough staff, so they gave me a go and I turned out to be pretty good at it. In my view, women are better equipped to work in hospitality than men. That probably sounds like reverse sexism, but I appreciate the warmth and empathy women bring to working in hospitality.”

After a few years at Berowra Waters, Judy and Michael purchased Barrenjoey House in 1983, marking their first solo venture. “It just made sense that we would continue to work together,” says Judy. “When the opportunity came up for us to have our own place, we took it — we both felt able to.”

The couple ran Barrenjoey House for five years with a young Neil Perry, going on to launch Perry’s in Paddington and receiving two hats for both restaurants.

CHANGING TIDES Operating a restaurant in 2018 is worlds apart from running one in the ’90s. Remaining fluid is a must, and Catalina has managed to navigate a realm of changes and disruptions over the years. “During the GFC, we were looking at bookings dropping off and wondering what on earth would happen to our business and all the people we employ. That was one of the real downs of our 24 years, but we bounced back.”

Utilising technology has also changed considerably since Catalina first opened its doors. “When we started, the internet was really just establishing itself and there wasn’t any email; everything was mail, phone or fax,” says Judy. “We did quoting by mail or fax and would have to wait for someone to send a cheque for a function. Now, we have email, booking systems and it’s such a faster life. We have developed an online database and take bookings through platforms like Dimmi, Qantas, etc. There are a lot of advantages to doing business these days.”

SOCIAL MEDIA AND MARKETING Catalina has a significant social media presence and uses the platform to market new dishes and cocktails. The restaurant’s account currently has over 32,000 followers — an impressive number for a venue — and employ a social media specialist to manage the page. “We have a PR agency who do our Instagram, but we provide the content and the direction,” says Judy. “We feel we know how we want to portray ourselves, but we need help. These days, I think having a PR company to help you direct your offering in certain areas is important.”

Judy says maintaining an updated account is crucial to driving menu changes and inspiring chefs to create eye-catching dishes. “Instagram drives a lot these days, and we photograph our food regularly. It ensures chefs are developing beautiful-looking dishes that taste great, but look better. It’s the wrong way round, but it’s great.”

The restaurant has also built a significant database over the years and sends out EDMs to customers about venue news and upcoming events, but Judy is mindful of how many emails are sent to subscribers.

“It’s a fine line,” she says. “More people have databases so there are more emails going out — you have to be careful. Generally speaking, I don’t do it more than once a month. We send more when special occasions are coming up like Christmas or Father’s Day and a targeted EDM goes out to people whose birthday it is that month. We try not to have a go at people too often; they are really important.”

November 2018 Hospitality 9

business profile

to do,” says Judy. “If they don’t have a passion or vocation, they aren’t going to last. We’ve had some wonderful apprentices come through for their four years, become qualified and go away and come back. You just have to roll with it.”

THE VALUE OF LOYAL DINERS

Judy and Michael with their children Kate and James

ATTRACTING STAFF AND DEALING WITH VISAS Struggling with staffing has almost become a running joke in the industry due to how widespread the problem is. In spite of Catalina’s prestigious position in the Sydney dining scene, the restaurant experiences the same staffing sagas as any other venue. Although Judy jokes for Hospitality not to get her started on recruiting chefs, we’re glad we did.

“It is so hard to get good people,” she says. “We have a good profile, but aspirational chefs probably go to hatted and celebrity restaurants first.

It’s very hard to get many Australian chefs at all. I have quite a few, but if you advertise, sometimes there will be no response at all and I think that’s the case for many Sydney restaurants — we all struggle.”

Fortunately, Catalina have the top end of the chef spectrum covered, and their executive chef Mark Axisa has been with the restaurant since he was an apprentice. “We also sponsored our head chef who became a citizen. He’s been with us for nine years and the others have been there for five years. We do a lot of sponsoring because it’s the only way to fill the vacancies.”

But due to the changes to the 457 visa, now the TSS visa, Judy is a little more hesitant when it comes to sponsoring overseas chefs. “The visa changes make you think twice about each person you might want to sponsor,” she says. “You have to pay all this money upfront and you can only get them for two years, depending on what their skill set is. My feeling is that the interest is lower from overseas; two years is nothing and no path to residency would put people off. I have to think about how much money I can spend to get someone, and you are just talking about manning the hot and cold section, not people creating menus or dishes. But these people are the backbone of the kitchen and you need the hands.”

Apprentices are another sticky point for the industry, but changes to training levies have thrown another spanner in the works for businesses.

“Before the visa changed, there was a requirement to spend a certain amount of money on training, i.e. having apprentices, so your training levy (1 per cent) was spent on something within the business,” says Judy. “If you didn’t, it would cost you 2 per cent of your payroll to give to a training organisation. Now, there’s no incentive to have one anymore.

Before, I needed an apprentice to fulfil my obligations for the levy, now, I have to pay money to the government’s training program whether I have apprentices or not. It’s disappointing the way it’s gone.”

Catalina currently has one apprentice on the team, which Judy describes as a “miracle”. Although their executive chef is a case study of a successful apprenticeship for both parties, it doesn’t always work out that way. “Some people apply because they don’t know what else 10 Hospitality November 2018

When you’re in business for as long as Catalina, regulars become an important part of continual success. Catalina has seen diners come and go and held on tight to those who have remained loyal to the restaurant. “They’re the biggest part of our success, and we have a huge number of return guests,” says Judy.

Catalina employ a unique strategy that’s not as common as it should be — rewarding loyal customers over new diners. It seems first-time diners are the ones who are gifted with a free bottle of wine or a complimentary entrée to lure them into a venue while repeat diners get squat. “We would rather give an existing customer a special gift for their birthday or give them an offer to encourage them to return than someone we have never seen before,” says Judy. “It really builds return trade and customer satisfaction.”

The restaurant also prides itself on maintaining a welcoming atmosphere, with staff members recognising and greeting return customers and establishing rapport. “The recognition factor is pretty big,” says Judy. “My kids have grown up and I have a lot of long-term staff — they know all of the customers. It’s a very family thing here.

That extends to 10–12 of our staff who have been with us for so long and our customers feel that familiar context. That part of our business is integral to our continued success.”

Catalina will celebrate a milestone anniversary of 25 years in 2019, a remarkable achievement for a restaurant that’s just as loved now than when it first launched. The notion of family is at the core of the venue, which is shared between customers, staff and owners alike, making their 25th birthday all the more sweet. n

“The visa changes make you think twice about each person you might want to sponsor.” – Judy McMahon Spring cocktails

Do more, with less, faster

SERVING SUGGESTION

When it comes to cooking with cream, a busy kitchen needs products that deliver more than just great taste.

Anchor Extra Yield Cooking Cream requires no reduction, saving valuable time while Anchor Culinary Cream is specially formulated to hold high temperatures – making it ideal for cook, chill and reheat applications.

anchorfp.com.au | CSAustralia@fonterra.com | 1300 738 484

column

No more

cock-rock Ben Shewry on the Instagram message that made him question everything, gender inequality in the industry and why Attica’s food and culture is the best it’s ever been. Here, a transcription of his interview at MAD Symposium in Copenhagen with journalist Lisa Abend.

12 Hospitality November 2018

column

I

got a direct message from a very misguided young man, denigrating women in relation to a friend’s dish I had posted. I had never got a message like this before and I was really shocked by it.

I know it’s nothing shocking to women. But for me to be confronted with this young man who thought I would be impressed by this message really made me question everything — my leadership, my community. Had I been doing enough publically?

Clearly, this guy had never heard of all the things we had been working towards at the restaurant. If he had, he would have never sent this horrible message. I sat on it for a week and thought about what it meant, I thought about shaming him and reposting it.

Ultimately, I came to realise that it’s a much bigger issue and I didn’t feel addressing the individual proved anything.

So I posted that [screenshot on the right], and it was somewhat difficult to write. To be honest, I was so deeply ashamed by what he said that I broke down. It’s unacceptable on the deepest level to me and I wanted to express that — and this is the only way I knew how.

It’s very hard for a man to understand what it’s like to be a woman — it’s impossible, especially for a white man. It’s impossible for us to understand because we will never experience gender inequality. We have to talk about what’s happening and confront it. I think for men, they’re very scared of that.

I had a job for a year in Wellington which was an incredibly volatile environment. If you tried too hard to make your cooking better, someone older and bigger than you would want to physically harm you. I remember being chased in the kitchen and close to being beaten, but a friend who was one of the head chefs saved me.

The same person who wanted to beat me because I made a duck sauce properly was the same person who would have beaten a young woman in the kitchen had it not been for the same head chef who saved her as well. Sadly, that head chef passed last year … he took his own life. He was someone who shielded us from the horrible environment I endured for a year and a half where drug-taking was common. In fact, it was uncommon not to, and I was one of the only people who didn’t. But even more horrific was working from 7am till midnight with no breaks and dealing with the constant fear of trying too hard, otherwise someone would want to beat you for it.

I wasn’t such a good guy that first year at Attica. I was very insecure. I was a 27-yearold head chef who had no idea about how to behave. I couldn’t meet my own expectations, I couldn’t meet my own goals and there were just two of us in the kitchen — me and my best friend. I recall bollocking him

for overcooking the fish. But it was me overcooking the fish, not him, because I hadn’t taught him properly. He’s such a good friend that we were able to get past that, but I live with the guilt of yelling at him like that.

I started to learn that performance was based on the way the team feels. When you’re unhappy in cooking, it’s hard to reach your potential. When something goes wrong during service, the automatic response is to rage.

Nothing is getting better or fixing the problem for the customer. You need to create an environment of honesty. If you have a system of fear in the kitchen, as soon as that person makes a mistake, they will hide it. If you have a system of fairness and honesty, you implore them to come to you with the mistake and you can help fix it.

When I had the opportunity to buy Attica, I wanted to look at it as trying to be the best

The business operates best when it’s an even split of men and women.

When there are too many men, I don’t like the feeling.

Right now, there’s a 50/50 split exactly which feels good. small business in Australia, not the best restaurant. I wanted to set a moral agenda from the beginning because I have a conscience and I can’t sleep if the culture is bad. There’s never a day that we don’t try to be better.

We hire people on attitude and heart, not generally on skills. It’s not easy to teach someone to be a good person; it’s easier to teach them how to make a sauce. I want them to be kind, have a positive attitude and treat people with respect. We’re a team of 40 and it’s critical to the culture of the restaurant it’s that way.

About six years ago, I felt there was a disconnect between front of house and the kitchen. They’re quite different jobs in the business but they’re of equal importance.

I came up with the idea of staff speeches where someone is assigned to do a speech. The only real rule is that it has to be constructive. It can be something hard in your life, and we’ve heard conversations about suicide and mental health issues that sometimes leave you feeling deflated.

I hated feeling like I was a number in a business. I really felt like it stripped my identity a bit and no one likes to feel like they don’t count. I wanted to avoid that in our workplace, so I wanted to give every person the opportunity to stand up and say something about themselves.

The business operates best when it’s an even split of men and women. When there are too many men, I don’t like the feeling. Right now, there’s a 50/50 split exactly which feels good.

We don’t employ people based on their gender, but we always want to have a good balance.

We have a management team that’s two women and two men. Early into my ownership, our operations manager Kylie [Staddon] came to me with a problem. A person in our team physically man-handled men and women. He threatened female members of staff and he intimidated our November 2018 Hospitality 13

column

manager. It happened while I was on holiday and I learned of it the first day I was back. To cut a long story short, that was the last day he had at Attica. There’s no other thing to do. The behaviour was outrageous and goes against our culture. I can’t tolerate [it] and I didn’t care about the risk to my business. We needed the position filled and we didn’t have anyone, which led to Kylie pitching in and me being on the floor for six months. We were so scared we were going to lose a hat or a star and we came close because of what he did and the decision I made. If you don’t draw a line and say people are more important than a star or a hat, how can you look anyone in the eye?

I’d like to think any woman could come to me with a problem without fear, but I know that’s not the way it is in our society. It’s important to have women in senior management and empower them and allow them to make decisions — and that’s what happens at Attica.

Kylie helps set the moral agenda and that’s been hugely influential to me as a man. I had an idea about another person not connected to the restaurant; someone [staff] can go to, kind of like a restaurant ombudsman. You could talk to them about the problem, and that person would hold the restaurant accountable if the right action wasn’t taken.

We are working at most 48 hours in the kitchen or less a week and front of house are working 45 hours or less across four days in the kitchen. Staff have three days off and the quality is better than ever.

14 Hospitality November 2018

Everyone subscribes to doing the hours otherwise you’re not hardcore. What if you did less hours and you did them a lot better?

I need an elite 48 hours from staff, and then I need them to go and forget about work and concentrate on stuff that’s important to them. Have breakfast with your partner or whatever, just don’t be here.

At the start, we had to police it. I’m there first with Kylie, and we would see staff on camera coming in two hours before their shift. We had to go out there and say, ‘Go away, please — go have a coffee’. It was a really big cultural shift for staff because they had never worked like that. Everyone subscribes to doing the hours otherwise

you’re not hardcore. What if you did less hours and you did them a lot better? I think there’s something in that.

The food is better than it was, but the culture, the environment and the atmosphere is the best of all time. It’s not like I’m sitting here saying we’re perfect, we’re affected by the same things, but the culture is excellent and people are genuinely happy. n MAD is a non-profit organisation that unites a global cooking community with a social conscience, a sense of curiosity and an appetite for change.

Simplified Washroom Economy NEW 7009 Livi® BASICS

MULTI-PACK TOILET TISSUE

6 ROLLS

2 PLY

400 SHEETS

EMBOSSED

Suitable for use with Livi® conventional toilet roll dispensers

5501

5500

5502

Request your FREE sample today* www.livitissue.com.au

|

1300 832 883

|

info@solarispaper.com.au

*Offer available to Australian registered businesses only. Limit of 1 pack per ABN and available to the first 200 requests only.

I

Trends

f you haven’t eaten a canelé before, you’re missing out. The tiny but mighty pastry usually sits around 5cm in height and is known for its caramelised shell and soft custard centre. The canelé has roots in the Bordeaux region in France where it has remained a pâtisserie staple. However, it hasn’t had the same impact as a croissant or pain au chocolat in Australia — yet.

Hospitality speaks to April Bae from The Flour and Fred’s pastry chef Elodie Marion about the canelés recent appearance on local shores, selecting the right mould, the importance of baking in stages and technical difficulties.

The canelé has been around for centuries, and Australian venues are finally starting to put the petite French pastry front and centre. By Annabelle Cloros.

RISING TO THE CHALLENGE

Canelé

Discovering a foodstuff that hasn’t already been flogged to death is a rarity, but the canelé may very well be one of them.

Australians are known for being world travellers who typically return having tried a number of new delicacies, so it was only a matter of time before chefs began recreating canelés for the local market.

Fred’s in Paddington, Sydney, recently launched a breakfast offering, and thought the canelé would be the perfect addition.

“When we were deciding on the approach to breakfast at Fred’s, head chef Danielle Alvarez wanted to create a European feel to the offerings,” says Elodie Marion. “We thought the canelé was an under-represented pastry in Sydney and it would make a statement.”

For ex-Rockpool pastry chef and The Flour owner April Bae, an overseas discovery inspired her to launch her own business that focused on canelés. “I tried a canelé, and the shape, flavour and texture was so interesting,” she says. “They’re a masterpiece of texture and flavour when made well, so I started to research them and make authentic canelés.”

TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES

The Flour’s canelé options

16 Hospitality November 2018

While the canelé’s appearance is deceptively simple, there are many factors that go into making a sublime pastry. There are just eight core ingredients — milk, butter, vanilla, rum, eggs, flour, sugar, flour — needed to make a good canelé, but there’s plenty of room for error, or “pressure points” as Marion calls them. “Like most areas of baking as opposed to cooking, it requires following a detailed recipe accurately,” she says. “For example, the temperature of my oven can’t be off by a degree or I run the risk of the texture of the canelé being incorrect. Similarly, when preparing the mixture, if I heat the milk component to an incorrect temperature, the canelé will invariably ‘mushroom’ in the moulds.”

Bae agrees, and says achieving uniformity is another touchpoint when making canelés. “I don’t think they’re technically difficult, but it’s hard to get the same consistency,” she says.

“They’re simple, but difficult to get right.”

Fred’s use copper moulds for baking

FLAVOUR VS TEXTURE So what makes the canelé so special? It really boils down to a crisp exterior teamed with a flavour that showcases both rum and vanilla on an equal playing field. “It’s mellow but rich at the same time,” says Bae. “Good-quality milk and flour are important along with freerange eggs and cultured butter. Raw sugar also adds a caramel flavour.” For Marion, the flavour is all about sharp vanilla and boozy rum “while being perfectly crusty on the outside and chewy in the middle“, she says. “The lingering caramelised crust stuck between your teeth is my favourite part.”

BREAKING THE MOULD The canelé is traditionally made in a French copper mould, which yields the best results.

Copper moulds provide even heat distribution, resulting in defined lines and a crisp exterior the pastry is known for. However, copper comes at a high cost, with one mould hitting the $25-plus price point. Opting for copper also means each mould needs to be coated in butter or beeswax to ensure the mixture doesn’t stick. Marion uses copper moulds, which Bae also prefers, but canelés can also be made using silicone, which is a more affordable option. “Copper is quite expensive in Australia, and I think you can make goodquality canelés with silicone moulds,” says Bae. “The batter is the most important thing.”

THE PREP PROCESS Like most baked goods, dry ingredients and wet ingredients are kept separate until the final mix. The temperature of specific ingredients is also essential to ensuring a successful bake. “The most important part of making canelés is the temperature of the

milk,” says Bae. “If the milk is too hot, it cooks the flour and it will come out like a soufflé.”

Bae combines the dry ingredients before adding in the milk and the rest of the wet ingredients. “You don’t want to overmix the batter,” she says. “You’re looking at a batter that’s just well combined.”

There’s an extra step involved in the preparation of the batter at Fred’s — ageing. “I heat up milk, butter and vanilla,” says Marion.

“I then combine an egg mixture consisting of whole eggs and egg yolks and sift through flour and icing sugar.” The chef goes on to add rum to the mixture before it’s strained and aged over a two-day period.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL The canelé cooking process isn’t a matter of setting the timer and walking away, in fact, there’s probably not much time to do anything besides stare into the oven window if you want a perfect product. Canelés are cooked at a high temperature for a short period of time before the temperature is bumped down. “I set the oven to the highest temperature, around 240–250 degrees Celsius,” says Bae. “I reduce it to 210 when I put them in and cook for about 15 minutes. Once they’re boiling, I reduce the temperature to 180 for 10 minutes until they’re brown. You need to check the colour and make the decision when you need to stop baking.”

Marion cooks canelés for 10 minutes at a high temperature before lowering, and continually rotates the moulds until they’re ready.

Expect to see more canelés appearing on local menus as consumer awareness continues to rise. As they say, you can’t go wrong with a classic, and it doesn’t get any more classic than a pastry with hundreds of years of history behind it. n

“We thought the canelé was an underrepresented pastry in Sydney and it would make a statement.” – Elodie Marion

November 2018 Hospitality 17

glassware

Jancis Robinson collection

The glassware guide Glassware is bound to break at some point, so it’s important to get your money’s worth while it’s still in good nick. We look at minimising risk, how to store glasses properly and the concept of a universal glass. By Annabelle Cloros.

D

avid Chang recently shared an image on Instagram every operator can relate to — a breakage list. Snapped at Restaurant Barr in Denmark, the broken glasses form is split into three categories: what did I break? why did I break it? and who broke it. While it may seem a little stiff at first, the staff responses are all in good humour, with answers ranging from “I’m clumsy” to “manhandled it while polishing” and “black magic”.

Keeping track of breakages shows just how much money and stock is lost as soon as a glass hits the floor, which is why selecting the right glassware is simply good business.

Hospitality talks to Master Sommelier Benjamin Hasko from Luxury Beverage Group, wine writer and P&V Wine + Liquor Merchants partner Mike Bennie and wine critic Jancis Robinson about shape, durability and why you need to get rid of Champagne flutes — now.

CAN ONE SIZE FIT ALL?

“A different glass for each wine may increase potential pleasure by a few per cent, but who has the space to store multiple different sorts of wine glass?”

– Jancis Robinson

Most venues stock dedicated Champagne, red and white glasses, but Jancis Robinson wanted to challenge the status quo by creating a wine glass suitable for all varietals. “I am above all a pragmatist,” says Robinson. “A different glass for each wine may increase potential pleasure by a few per cent, but who has the space to store multiple different sorts of wine glass?”

The wine expert went on to create the Jancis Robinson collection with designer Richard Brendon which consists of a wine glass, water 18 Hospitality November 2018

glass and two carafes, and says she’s yet to find a wine that’s not “flattered by them”. Each piece is mouth-blown by master craftspeople in Europe using bright lead-free glass, with the wine glass characterised by the ultra-fine tulip-shaped bowl which allows the wine to breathe. “[The] shape is pleasing to the eye, a pleasure to use and handle and a real complement to wines of all sorts,” says Robinson.

Benjamin Hasko says glass selection boils down to what the venue’s wine offering is all about. “Riedel’s Chianti is a great white wine glass, but having a larger or some of the varietal-specific glasses do change the experience,” he says. “Having a fine lip on a wine glass also makes for a more luxurious experience.”

Bennie agrees, and says it’s up to the style of restaurant plus the depth of the wine list — but says clean glasses are a good start. “Short, sharp, casual dining can handle stemless glasses pretty well, while fancier dining experiences tend to need an array of glasses that suit individual wine styles,” he says. “But there’s nothing wrong with fun wines out of tumblers poured from carafes.”

USING RED GLASSES FOR WHITE AND VICE VERSA Purists look away — the general consensus is red and white wines can be served from the same glass, which means you could get away with investing in a handful of glasses over a full range. It’s also important to understand that aromatics can be just as present or absent in both red and white varieties. “I see no reason at all why white wine should be

Get catch of the day specials with

Order from hundreds of suppliers, add your own and never miss an amazing promotion. All from your HUM dashboard. Ordering made unbelievably easy Join for free at hi.yourhum.com

Examples of recent deals Stella Artois cases

$40 ea

Peroni cases

$40 ea

Oyster Bay range

$12 ea

Jancis Robinson

glassware

served in a smaller glass than red,” says Robinson. “Some whites are more aromatic than some reds, but many whites are just as subtle as the average red wine and need just as much encouragement to express itself via a big bowl.”

Although glasses have been purpose-designed for particular wines, e.g. Chardonnay, Bordeuax, Pinot Noir, the concept of flexible glassware is one operators should get on board with. “Wine glasses can enhance a wine-drinking experience individually tailored to grape varieties or wine styles,” says Bennie, “but universal glassware is also a thing, used to be flexible with both whites and reds and anything in between.”

DITCHING CHAMPAGNE FLUTES There’s a serious case for serving Champagne in a wine glass, and sommeliers around the globe are swapping out flutes for glasses.

Due to the slender design of a flute, the consumer isn’t able to fully appreciate the aromas which are more accessible when using a wine glass. Sure, flutes look sophisticated and do a good job at keeping Champagne fizzy for longer, but is it worth the aromatic sacrifice — and the extra storage space? Bennie doesn’t think so. “Don’t. Use. Flutes,” he says. “The narrow aperture of the glass and the tall, slender shape do very little to actually enhance the drinking experience. A white wine glass is better for all fizzy wines, it lets aromas, bubbles and flavours express themselves more readily.”

Mike Bennie

Serving Champagne in flutes is also a matter of tradition, with towers of bubbles taking pride of place over the drink itself. “The idea was valuing bubbles above all else,” says Hasko, “but there’s been an increased respect for Champagne as a white wine, so serving it in a white wine glass is preferable. A white wine glass has a larger opening and it’s easier to see the complexities in the wine. It stops being so much about the bubbles and starts being about the wine.”

Robinson has also noticed a shift when it comes to serving Champagne in alternative glassware. “Top producers of specialist wines such as Champagne and Sherry really want their wines to be served in a regular wine glass, not to be corralled into a special shape or size,” she says.

COST

Master Sommelier Benjamin Hasko

The cost of glassware varies considerably, with some options going for a couple of bucks and others reaching upwards of $40 a pop.

Unfortunately, restaurants go through a lot of glassware and clumsy staff and customers or poor-quality options can make a serious dent in your pocket. Look for high-quality glassware that’s durable and enjoyable to drink out of. “It’s venue dependent, but if it’s a 30-seat café with 60–100 wine glasses at $5 a glass, you could probably get away with $500 on glassware,” says Hasko. The Master Sommelier also suggests investing in durable glassware if operators don’t have time to train staff or have the proper equipment to polish glassware, which is often where accidental breakages occur.

Before you splash out $30 per glass, you should seriously think about the cost of replacing expensive glassware. Sure, quality is important, but could a $5 glass do the same job? “The style of venue will dictate budget, but I would err on side of caution,” says Bennie. “Fancier glasses equal more expenses to replace, and they do break ...”

STORAGE Taking care of glassware and storing it in the right place also plays a crucial role in ensuring longevity. Hasko says operators should invest in a dedicated storage area that’s not near passageways or food preparation areas such as the kitchen. “Store glasses in an odour-free place as they trap odours easily,” he says. “Food aroma molecules are heavier than the air, so when they settle in a wine glass, the wines could end up smelling like one of the dishes if they’re close to the kitchen.”

If you’re storing wine above a counter area, Bennie speaks perfect sense when he says it’s worth investing in good-quality racks that are balanced and sturdy.

Choosing the right glassware can be overwhelming, but it pays to do your research and consider a more progressive way of serving wines. n 20 Hospitality November 2018

best practice

Photograph like a pro Ken Burgin asks photographer Adrian Harrison about capturing unique imagery, building a photo library and if you really need to ask people permission to take a snap.

N

ovember and December are busy times for restaurants and offer great opportunities to capture your own photos to highlight food, service and a happy atmosphere. Here, Adrian Harrison provides helpful tips all operators should take note of.

STAY TRUE TO YOUR BRAND You want to capture the things people do at this time of year — enjoying food, laughing with friends and having a good time. Capture customers in the Christmas spirit — provide them with Santa hats or props that are fun and seasonal. Photograph your seasonal menu and take snaps of customers enjoying it. Make sure you time it for when they are just about to eat, not with their mouths full or with empty plates.

BUILDING AN IMAGE LIBRARY Determining the purpose of the imagery dictates how you compose your shots and if you’ll use landscape or portrait orientations.

A long skinny vertical banner on your website is very different to a horizontal banner, and you need to shoot accordingly. Avoid shooting only seasonal décor, and remove any images 22 Hospitality November 2018

related to specific events such as a poster with a date on it.

I like to get some movement in my photos, such as hands pouring, steam, splashes and blurred people working in the background, which make photos more dynamic and engaging. Capture laughter, people toasting, dancing and enjoying food. It’s better to take these as candid shots without the people looking directly at the camera — the photographer should be like a fly on the wall.

I reviewed some pub websites recently, and none of the photos of the function spaces had people in them. Customers may find it hard to imagine what an event will be like, so help them picture it.

COMPOSING PHOTOS Hold the camera straight — this is one of the most common errors I see. Check the background — you don’t want to see poles or trees growing out of people’s heads, messy counters or an untidy kitchen. Include items which tell a story — include some of the raw ingredients for food photography, or if you want to highlight summer, take a photo outside in the sun with people enjoying a cold beer.

PHOTOS FOR SOCIAL MEDIA Try to find an interesting angle. Everyone loves to do flat lay (bird’s eye view) images at the moment, but these aren’t always the best as they cut out the height dimension from a photo and you also don’t get the same shine on food or light. Shots of your staff preparing food can look great and tell a story about what’s in the dish. Showing the process behind the food makes it special.

PERMISSION TO SNAP According to the Australian Copyright Council, there is no general legal obligation under Australian law to get someone’s permission before you take their photograph.

In my experience, some people are sensitive about having their photo taken, so be polite and ask — particularly where there are children involved. You can’t use a photo of someone without permission in a way that suggests they are endorsing a product.

Venues can also impose terms of entry.

A pâtisserie school client of mine has an agreement as part of doing the class that students agree to have their image taken and used in marketing. n

2019 trends

Forward

thinking Like sands through the hourglass, so are the food trends that come and go. Here, Hospitality’s pick of 10 trends you’ll be seeing in 2019. By Annabelle Cloros.

H

ospitality has seen a lot of trends hit the market over the years. While some become permanent fixtures, others thankfully disappear when the next big thing comes along.

In 2018, we saw the continued rise of vegan options, fermented foods and a European style of eating and drinking — think spritzes and cured meats. On the flipside, we witnessed the downfall of monster burgers, freakshakes and Nutella-slathered confections.

The restaurant industry is heading towards a single-focus mantra, with venues sticking to a concept they can really nail. Cooking proteins over charcoal has become commonplace and natural and biodynamic varieties make an appearance on most wine lists. There’s a general feeling of stripping things back and the rise of vegetables sans meat is a welcome relief from years of excess. Native Australian ingredients are making their way into more dishes and we’re witnessing the rise of a casual dining experience over formal fine dining — even Quay got rid of their tablecloths.

While we’ve selected 10 trends, our prediction is 2019 will be the year of less is more.

1. SINGLE-FOCUS VENUES Australia lags when it comes to venues with a one-track mind. Japan is rife with noodle shops cranking out one dish, and same goes for tapas bars in Spain that offer a singular specialty. The concept is slowly finding its feet in Australia, and the idea of a small menu done well is appealing to consumers who appreciate a niche offering. Josh and Julie Niland opened a dedicated fish butcher a few doors down from their restaurant, Saint Peter, preparing and selling fish in the same vein as meat. Bistecca in Sydney only offers one main — bistecca alla Fiorentina — with the grain-fed Angus from the Riverine region ordered by weight and cooked medium-rare over charcoal, wood and olive branches. Dessert outlets Pafu and Hokkaido Baked Cheese Tart have also expanded with gusto across the country, churning out apple puffs and uniform tarts.

24 Hospitality November 2018

Fish Butchery Image credit Mark Best Jock Zonfrillo’s charred kangaroo with gubinge, grasses and wild garlic

2019 trends

P&V Wine + Liquor Merchants

2. NATIVE INGREDIENTS Local and sustainable are two buzzwords that aren’t going away anytime soon, and what’s better than utilising ingredients that are unique to the country? Chefs are becoming more interested in exploring the flavours of Indigenous Australian ingredients such as Davidson plum, bush tomato, wattleseed, muntries and lemon myrtle, to name a few. Restaurant Orana’s Jock Zonfrillo works closely with the local community and uses a range of native ingredients in dishes including kangaroo with smoked potato, feral plum and wattleseed alongside mud crab with mascarpone, bunya and brush cherry. Chef Clayton Wells recently spoke to Hospitality about A1 Canteen’s bush tomato butter and Bondi’s Side Room use powdered Davidson plum in one of their smoothie options.

3. NATURAL WINE Consumers like to know exactly what they’re eating and where it came from, and the same notion has made its way from food to booze. Natural, minimal-intervention and biodynamic wines are appearing on wine lists at Asian to modern Australian venues and everything in between. It’s important for operators to offer customers unique wines that aren’t mass-produced or readily available at the bottle shop up the road. But natural wines aren’t for everyone, and it’s up to the sommelier to explain their unpredictable nature to diners. “With low-intervention wine-making, the risk of wines having variation between bottle to bottle is greater,” says Automata’s Tim Watkins. A healthy number of venues have prioritised natural varieties on their wine list including Sydney’s P&V Wine + Liquor Merchants and Melbourne’s Restaurant Shik.

4. DIETARY REQUIREMENTS According to research released by the CSIRO, one in three Australians avoid gluten, dairy or meat, which means venues need to cater for the burgeoning market of diners in more ways than one. Stocking milk alternatives such as oat, macadamia, almond and coconut are now just as popular as soy. Gluten-free bread options are a must along with vegetarian or vegan fare that’s more inspired than mushroom pasta. That being said, dietaries are a major point of contention for the industry. While most chefs are happy to cater to those with legitimate allergies, there’s been a surge of customers using faux allergies as an excuse to customise meals. Chefs have been taking to social media to call out diners who allege they’re gluten-free but will chow down on dumplings. “It makes you a bit more creative,” says Mercado chef Jason Dean, “but at the same time, I wonder how many of these dietaries are intolerances or people just saying it?”

Chefs are becoming more interested in exploring the flavours of Indigenous Australian ingredients such as Davidson plum, bush tomato, wattleseed, muntries and lemon myrtle.

November 2018 Hospitality 25

2019 trends

5. SHAVED ICE Asian desserts are booming across the country, but one particular item is becoming more prevalent. Known as patbingsu in Korea, halo-halo in the Philippines and kakigori in Japan, we’re seeing more shaved ice desserts appearing on menus. Sydney’s Devon Cafe offers their take on kakigori during the warmer seasons and rotates flavours which include strawberry, rose and watermelon and taro. Kakigori typically consists of a mountain of fluffy, snow-like ice teamed with flavoured syrups and fresh fruit. Patbingsu follows a similar model, but uses flavoured shaved ice that’s fashioned into a towering pile and topped with ice cream, fruit, condensed milk and red bean paste. Donut Papi in Sydney’s Redfern serves up halo-halo during summer, combining shaved ice with dessert jellies, fruit, pudding and ice cream — talk about a sugar rush.

Devon Cafe’s kakigori

6. FERMENTED AND PICKLED FOODS Foods that are good for your gut are very much in vogue. But much more than good bacteria hubs, fermented or pickled foodstuffs are also a good way for a kitchen to minimise waste. Leftover vegetable tops and scraps can be saved from the bin and pickled in water, vinegar, salt and sugar. Cornersmith in Sydney’s Inner West are well known for their sustainable practices. The venue sell jars of their house-made preserves and pickles which also feature throughout the menu on the ploughman’s plate and poached egg roll. Chef Chase Kojima from Sokyo is another fan of fermented foods, using the technique to create a varied flavour profile. “I personally pickle vegetables and let them ferment for a little bit,” he says. “It makes the flavour more complex and they can be served as a side or used for making sauces.”

7. VEGAN OPTIONS Data has revealed Australia is the third fastest-growing vegan market in the world, with 11.2 per cent of the population admitting their diet is all or almost all vegetarian. While vegetarian and vegan diets are very different, venues should consider having options for both preferences on the menu. Melbourne’s Smith & Daughters has been a game-changer for vegan fare thanks to chef Shannon Martinez who creates plant-based options of classic dishes such as cacio e pepe and schnitzels. “We provide [customers] with the vegetarian alternative, which is still giving them all the satisfaction they’d be getting [from] meat or dairy, but they feel better about it because they know it’s all plant-based,” says Martinez. Pendolino in Sydney’s The Strand Arcade recently decided to make their vegan menu a permanent fixture after receiving high praise from customers who ordered it on request over the past eight years. “Earlier this year, we went a step further 26 Hospitality November 2018

Preserving at Cornersmith

2019 trends

Our prediction is 2019 will be the year of less is more. launching a four-course vegan tasting menu and the response has been fantastic,” says chef and owner Nino Zoccali.

8. HYBRID CROISSANTS First, there was the cronut, and now there’s a new realm of croissant mashups appearing across the globe. Mr Holmes Bakehouse in the US made headlines when they launched the ‘crossushi’ — a soy-glazed croissant packed with smoked salmon, seaweed, pickled ginger and wasabi. While things haven’t reached that level in Australia just yet, there are some interesting options on the market. Rollers Bakehouse in Manly are packing croissants with peanut butter and brownies and topping others with nori. There’s also an iteration of spanakopita on offer, filled with feta, béchamel, pine nuts and spinach. Melbourne’s Lune Croissanterie have also been experimenting with flavours including twice-baked treats filled with peanut butter frangipane and raspberry gel topped with peanut whip, peanut brittle and raspberries.

Pendolino’s Garfagnana-style farro and bean salad Image credit Guy Kinsman Ortiz sardines at Manly Greenhouse Image credit Yasmin Mund

9. CANNED GOODS At some stage, most Australians will travel to Europe and discover the culinary greatness that is canned goods. Our obsession with all things cultured and cured has inspired venues to create their own or import tinned goods from countries such as Spain or Italy. Sardines and anchovies are a recent menu addition for many venues jumping on the bandwagon, and can be found at Sydney’s Manly Greenhouse, Black Bottle and Chester White. Continental Deli has taken things into their own hands, preserving sardines in-house which are served and sold at the Newtown eatery. The store also imports anchovies from the Bay of Biscay, clams and cockles from Galicia and sardines from France. Not just reserved to food, ready-to-drink canned cocktails such as Manhattans and martinis are also going strong, with Archie Rose testing out the idea with the launch of a limited tinned negroni.

10. HOT POT Asia’s love for hot pot has made its way to our shores and Australians are embracing the new dining option. Hot pot is an incredibly custom and interactive dining experience, allowing customers to select a broth before picking and choosing raw vegetables and proteins to cook at the table. International brand Spice World was a game-changer when it opened in Sydney and other hot pot operators are following suit, with Chinese-Macanese eatery The Dolar Shop recently opening in Haymarket. The concept is admittedly a go-to winter dish, but it seems customers are just as eager to line up down the street for hot pot during the warmer seasons.

We’re seeing a lot of these trends present in the market already, but get ready for complete infiltration in 2019. n

Hot pot at Spice World November 2018 Hospitality 27

TOP ROW

• Ben O’Donoghue – Billykart & Billykart West End, Brisbane • Dan Moss – Terroir Auburn, Clare Valley, SA • Jerry Mai – Annam & Pho Nom, Melbourne • Claire Van Vuuren – Bloodwood, Sydney & Popla, Bellingen, NSW

For these fun-loving chefs, the kitchen is their playground and Australian Pork is their favourite toy.

Whether they’re rustling up something classic, simple or a cutting edge creation, no other meat is as versatile, allowing them to explore and indulge their imaginations. Be a PorkStar. And get some Pork on your menu.

BOTTOM ROW

• Cameron Matthews – Spicers Retreats – National • Joe Pavlovich – Bondi Trattoria, Sydney • Dave Pynt – Burnt Ends, Singapore • Thi Le – Anchovy, Melbourne • Dan Fisher – Ku De Ta, Perth • Aaron Ward – Young Chef of the Year 2017, Appetite for Excellence

italian

Up the

ante Antipasto is emblematic of a way of cooking and a way of eating, writes Madeline Woolway.

A

Cow’s milk burrata stracciatella, prawns crudo from Matteo Downtown Buffalo mozzarella, Kurobuta capocollo, and pistachio

ntipasto has a knack for conjuring memories of family functions; plastic deli platters filled with chargrilled vegetables soaked in low-grade oil and vinegar, filmwrapped salami of unknown provenance and wedges of cheap cheese, all left to languish in the midday heat.

Fair or not, the scenario is far from the origins of antipasti. As the first course of an Italian meal, it is more than a collection of disparate dishes — it is a way of eating. And antipasto is what keeps lunchtime diners lingering at Sydney’s Matteo Downtown past 3pm on a Wednesday afternoon.

“Antipasti is something I believe is really important,” head chef and co-owner Orazio D’Elia tells Hospitality. “Before your Mum makes pasta at home, you always go to the fridge and grab a few things to nibble on. I don’t believe you go to the restaurant and just order steak — you always need to have something to stimulate your appetite.”

In D’Elia’s native Italy, appetite ‘teasing’ is called stuzzicare l’appetito and it’s an essential component of every meal.

STUZZICARE L’APPETITO Although associated with formal occasions, stuzzicare l’appetito is widespread in Italy, with diners beginning most meals with at least one antipasto dish.

“Even if you go for pizza, people will share some prosciutto and mozzarella or some calamari fritti,” says D’Elia. “Every restaurant in Italy will have this.”

According to D’Elia, people are more likely to skip secondi or dessert before they forgo antipasti — an attitude that makes sense to James Kummrow, head chef at Fatto Bar & Cantina in Melbourne.

“It’s what you eat when you decide what you’re going to eat,” he says. “For me, antipasti is a welcoming gesture, [reflective of] genuine Italian generosity.”

But it’s not just an Italian tradition. “Everyone has a different version of it,” says Elvis Abrahanowicz from Continental Deli Bar & Bistro in Sydney’s Newtown.

Abrahanowicz was born in Argentina and has Spanish, Italian and Polish heritage — a mix that is apparent at Continental Deli, a venue where he hopes to keep family food traditions alive.

“Argentina is pretty much half Spanish and Italian,” he says. “It has European influences with the same customs.

“We designed the menu based on what we like to eat. At home, we’d always go and get a bunch of cold cuts and cheese and tinned goodness, like pickles and marinated vegetables. Dad would have the table covered in deli paper and cold cuts — that’s just how we eat.”

REGIONALITY At Continental Deli, antipasto dishes are reflective of regional variations and ingredients are influenced by Italian, Spanish and Eastern European traditions.

“The cold cuts are Italian, Spanish and a little Eastern European,” says Abrahanowicz. “A lot of the pickles are Eastern European. The seafood is more of a Spanish influence and Eastern European, too.”

30 Hospitality November 2018

italian

“Before it comes to your table, there’s a history behind it.”

– Orazio D’Elia The regionally diverse menu showcases the distinct characteristics of different cold cuts. Jamón and prosciutto are both cured pork leg that appear similar to the untrained eye, but Abrahanowicz says the differences are plain to see.

“The prosciutto di Parma is saltier and more floral and the Spanish jamón is sweeter and nuttier. The ibérico is even more so, because of the intensity. Italians have culatello, which tends to be a bit a richer like jamón. There are so many products — everyone has a version of something.”

There are even clear differences between Italian prosciuttos, with Parma and San Daniele the most popular.

“They’re made from two different types of pig and have different flavours. The colour, the ageing and the shape of the legs are actually different,” says Abrahanowicz.

At Matteo Downtown’s sister restaurant in Double Bay, San Daniele is on the menu while Parma is available at the CBD location. Both feature on antipasti boards and as individual dishes.

Antipasto from Fatto Bar & Cantina

Not available in major supermarkets ... www.fournil.com.au WWW.FOURNIL97.COM

November 2018 Hospitality 31

Italian

Cheeses from Continental Deli

Salumi from Continental Deli

The boards are “the king of antipasti” says D’Elia and the Matteo offerings showcase regional ingredients from around Italy.

“In Double Bay, we have antipasto Italiano, which comes in three plates. A salumi plate, a cheese plate and a plate with olives, grilled pumpkin, pickled chillies and grilled eggplant.

We buy mortadella from Australia, but in Italy it’s from Bologna. Fresh cheeses are from the south and aged cheeses are from the north.

The olives are from Liguria, Puglia, Calabria and Sicily.”

Matteo Downtown’s mozzarella bar — a southern Italian thing according to D’Elia — is another example of pan-regionalism.

“We don’t just serve buffalo mozzarella, we also have mozzarella from Campania and burrata and stracciatella, which is from Puglia,” says the chef.

All three venues try to source local Australian ingredients wherever possible. “When we first opened, we were all about 100 per cent Italian products,” says Kummrow. “As the quality of local producers has gone up, it’s become more of a mix. For me, the prosciutto will always be Italian. At the moment, we have an 18-monthold Parma, beautifully aged with a lovely texture and awesome fat to protein ratio that’s shaved on a razor-sharp slicer.”

The remaining items are sourced from Salt Kitchen Charcuterie. Based in Ballarat, the company is run by ex-chef Michael Nun who trained in Italy.

Regionality is evident not just in the individual components but in the way they’re bound together. Taking inspiration from the contemporary eateries found in Italy’s large regional meccas such as Napoli, Rome, Milan and Florence, Matteo Downtown’s approach isn’t dictated by strict geographical boundaries, and when it comes to the creation of antipasti dishes, D’Elia has taken liberties when combining traditional regional ingredients.

32 Hospitality November 2018

“Some dishes are very traditional and some I twist a bit,” says D’Elia. “Tartare is famous in the north, but the pizza bread we serve it with is from the south.”

STEWARDSHIP Whether following tradition to a T or allowing for creative license, the ethos of Italian cuisine lies at the heart of antipasti dishes.

“If you’re sourcing an amazing product, you want to do as little to it as possible,” says Kummrow. “It’s not just where the product came from, it’s who the farmer is, what he loves about the product and what he loves to do with it. “[Salt Kitchen Charcuterie’s Michael] Nun isn’t just sourcing the pigs, he’s working with the farmer and getting the animal grown to the right specs so he can work with the best sized muscle. The work isn’t in the cooking techniques; the real work is done beforehand, in going to the markets and talking to farmers.

We want the provenance of the product to sing on the plate.”

Which also ties in with respecting the heritage of ingredients. “Before it comes to your table, there’s a history behind it,” says D’Elia.

The process of cooking antipasti is more a matter of stewarding ingredients rather than applying complex techniques. For D’Elia that means sourcing the best cheeses for Matteo Downtown’s mozzarella bar then carefully considering how to serve them.

“I know the company I work with make beautiful buffalo mozzarella, burrata and stracciatella, so I picked things that go with them,” he says.

A dish that presents simply as buffalo mozzarella with salumi is the culmination of months curing Kurobuta pork neck inhouse to make a capocollo that offsets the creamy cheese.

“The work isn’t in the cooking techniques; the real work is done beforehand, in going to the markets and talking to farmers.”

– James Kummrow

“For the stracciatella, we make prawn crudo and prawn oil with the heads, before adding seaweed dust to break up the white and red,” says D’Elia. “We serve ricotta with Blackmore Wagyu bresaola.

Bresaola is very traditional and from the region of Milan, but it’s made with normal beef. The Australian product is second to none.”

If chefs are stewards of the ingredients, then wait staff are shepherds, guiding diners through the Italian way of eating.

“We want to give people a way of eating,” says D’Elia. “When people sit down, I tell the waiters they’re in charge of the order.

It’s not just about offering an Italian meal, it’s about showing them the Italian way of eating. You won’t have prawn crudo and then pork ragù. If you start with prawn crudo, you might go to spaghetti vongole. If you feel people want your help, politely offer it; it’s nice to guide them.”

The wait staff at Fatto Bar & Cantina undergo extensive training and are encouraged to offer advice to customers by suggesting their favourite dishes and helping them pair different salumi and cheeses.

“Contrast is important, so we would never serve capocollo with prosciutto together because they’re so similar,” says Kummrow.

“You would have something contrasting like the mortadella and the prosciutto as your meats. And it’s really important to have a soft or curd and a hard cheese.”

It’s occasionally worth serving similar products together, if only to help curious diners grasp the differences.

“We get people who want to see the difference between jamón and prosciutto,” says Abrahanowicz. “Other people might not think about it as much, but it doesn’t matter if it’s delicious and they’re enjoying it.” n

Salumi from Fatto Bar & Cantina

...available from select distributors www.fournil.com.au

November 2018 Hospitality 33

cooking classes

Back to

school Restaurants are fast adding cooking classes to their repertoire, opening up a new revenue stream and fostering community spirit in the process. By Annabelle Cloros.

Wasabi in Noosa

V

enues hold a special place in society, not just as hubs to eat and drink, but places where consumers can further their understanding on a particular technique or cuisine. Venues are starting to see the value in holding dedicated cooking classes that reflect their offering, whether it’s pasta-making, pickling or utilising local and sustainable produce.

Hospitality speaks to Cornersmith’s Alex Elliott-Howery and Wasabi’s Danielle Gjestland about why they decided to tackle the education route, what it really takes to run successful classes and whether they can be a financially beneficial addition for operators.

Alex Elliott-Howery is behind two of Sydney’s most-loved cafés, Cornersmith in Marrickville and its vegetarian sibling in Annandale. After cheese-maker Kristen Allan taught some night classes at the Marrickville site, they decided to launch their own offering.

“Education has been a big part of what we do, and I had it in the back of my head that it would be something we would expand on further,” says Elliott-Howery. “We ran a couple of pickling classes in the café, but quickly realised it’s not easy to use your space for something it hasn’t been set up for.” The team 34 Hospitality November 2018

went on to open the picklery, located just around the corner from the Marrickville café, which is where the team host classes and make pickles for their cafés, too.

Like Elliott-Howery, starting an educational arm of the business was always in the back of restaurateur Danielle Gjestland’s mind.

“We hosted a few classes here and there at Wasabi, but it always struck us as odd that Noosa didn’t have a dedicated cooking school of its own,” she says. “With such an abundance of great produce and a reputation for great food in the region, we saw the concept of The Cooking School Noosa as something the town needed.”

Although launching cooking classes may appear to be a natural progression for a business, they’re not something operators should jump into. Running a successful program requires a significant amount of investment — both time- and staff-wise.

Wasabi chefs run most of the classes at The Cooking School Noosa, and are responsible for prepping all the ingredients and hosting.

“Most of the chefs at the school work at Wasabi with the exception of guest chefs we host from other restaurants, either out of state or in Queensland,” says Gjestland.

“With such an abundance of great produce and a reputation for great food in the region, we saw the concept of The Cooking School Noosa as something the town needed.” – Danielle Gjestland

cooking classes

“We also have a team member who works as the school coordinator, so she sets up for the classes and is the chef’s assistant and allrounder throughout the day.”

Cornersmith has built up a solid reputation as a go-to for practical classes, which range from pickling to sourdough-making, but the team has spent an immense amount of time fine-tuning their offering. “The only way you can make it work is to dedicate time to it, just like you would any other part of your business,” says Elliott-Howery. “At the beginning we were like, ‘We’ll just run classes on the side’, but there’s so much work that goes into making it a smooth operation.”

Cornersmith also have a dedicated coordinator and employees who are responsible for bookings, prep work and marketing. “It’s an octopus arm of our business that has its own operation,” says Elliott-Howery.

“Our school has grown which has been amazing, but we’ve put in a lot of effort so it’s the same standard as the rest of our business.”

“The only way you can make it work is to dedicate time to it, just like you would any other part of your business.” – Alex Elliott-Howery

Alex Elliott-Howery

The team has created a template which ensures the smooth-running of classes, with the format suiting multiple topics. “We have a really strong structure in terms of how we run classes and what our students expect,” says Elliott-Howery. “In some ways, it’s easy now, because we know exactly what we’re offering and we slot different topics into the same structure. Our ethos is about cooking from scratch, seasonality, traditional skills and reducing waste, so we spread that message throughout whatever we’re teaching.”

Setting a price for a class can be a sticky point for operators, and it’s difficult to gauge what customers perceive as value for money. For some, it’s one-on-one time with an instructor, and for others, it can be the

Danielle Gjestland at Honeysuckle Hill

takeaways they get at the end of the day.

But produce isn’t cheap, and neither is the equipment operators have to splash out on.

The Cooking School Noosa uses the same ingredients you can find at Wasabi, which means the quality is top-notch. “We are definitely aimed at providing a luxury experience and the price point reflects that,” says Gjestland. “We want people to walk away thinking, ‘Wow, I just had the most beautiful meal and now I actually know how to cook it at home’.”

When setting class prices, Gjestland says one of the main considerations was that people felt taken care of during their time at the school. Food, drink and refreshments are included in the price of the classes, which combine a dining experience with handson cooking. “We wanted people to feel pampered during the whole process, from the bespoke tea on arrival and class size of 10 guests to the restaurant-style service with matching wines for each course. We have built [the inclusions] into the price to make it viable, but it will be a while before the school can stand on its own feet and be financially separate from the restaurant.”

Cornersmith set pricing according to topic, with a tempeh-making class starting at $50, and a pickling intensive class costing $200.

“I don’t think customers have any idea about how much work goes into putting on a class,” says Elliott-Howery. “We look for a price range that works for us, but one that isn’t out of reach for customers. We’re lucky our classes fill, so I think we’re speaking to the right audience. It’s taken a while, but the school is starting to have a life of its own as a viable business within Cornersmith.”

Sourcing equipment for classes can also be a major cost for operators, no matter how big or small the class is. “We had to buy so much more of everything,” says Elliott-Howery.

“There’s a lot of replacement because things are getting used so much and they need to be in good nick. It’s taken us a good three years to feel like we’re fully stocked with everything we need.”

Running cooking classes can be an incredibly rewarding experience for venues that can champion their cause, boost bottom line and educate consumers. Start small and experiment with different class formats and topics to determine what works best for your business. n November 2018 Hospitality 35

single-focus venues

One-track mind Australia’s range of single-focus venues are more diverse than you think, writes Madeline Woolway.

S

ingle-focus venues are common across a number of international markets. In some countries, they’re considered the norm, and the concept has recently started to gain momentum in Australia. There are a handful of local venues that are ahead of the game and making their mark on the food scene with niche offerings.

FOCAL POINT The ST Group is behind a number of ubiquitous food concepts — think PappaRich, Ippudo, Gong Cha, Hokkaido Baked Cheese Tart (HBCT) and Pafu.

While some of these businesses offer extensive menus, others maintain a tight roster of products. HBCT and Pafu are textbook examples of the single-focus venues widespread throughout Asia.

The decision to focus solely on cheese tarts and apple turnover puff pastries is not a gimmick; there’s a wealth of market research and trend analysis behind them. “We look at the local consumer market and try to establish a profile of gaps that are available,” says Jason Leong, HBTC business development manager.

According to Leong, the key questions to ask are, “Is there anyone out there selling a niche product and would this niche product fit the taste profile of Australian consumers?”

36 Hospitality November 2018

Data gathered through this process helped the group realise what they could bring to a market saturated with bakeries that offer a wide variety of pastries, bread and so on.

Jenny Pham is the co-founder of giant squid venture Ika8, which recently opened in Melbourne, and noticed the prevalence of squid in Asian markets such as Singapore.

“Squid is often on menus, but it’s rarely the hero,” says Pham. “There seems to be a growing audience in Australia at the moment, so it felt like the right time.”

However, market research suggested the offering would need to be more versatile. By launch day, the squid-centric menu featured not just giant options, but small bites, too.

For other businesses, the decision to pursue a sole focus — and what to focus on — is the result of research and serendipity.

For Sydney-based venue Smoking Gun Bagels, such was the case.

“We signed a commercial lease on the space for five years and after two, we decided not to do what we were originally going to do [a coffee roastery],” says David Young, Smoking Gun co-founder. “We looked at the market and saw that no one was doing Montreal-style bagels, and it just so happened the codes for the wood-fired oven flue are the same for the flue that was [in the building] from when it was Toby’s Estate.”

“We want to be the best at one thing and that’s bagels.”

– Mark Treviranus

Apple puff from Pafu

Together with co-founder Mark Treviranus, Young travelled through the US and Canada, researching the concept before bringing it back to Sydney.

DIVERSIFICATION More than an industry buzzword, diversification is a necessity for food businesses looking to increase revenue. So, how do venues that have made a name on sole offerings stay afloat?

“We are always working to diversify our menu and offerings albeit at a controlled pace,” says Leong. “In time, there’ll be more new flavours [of tarts and puffs] and new products [like soft serve] that you’ll see in our outlets.

“Aside from the retail space, we also cater to bulk orders for weddings and corporate events, so we may expand the catering arm down the road.”

While Smoking Gun sales are still predominantly made through the shop, a move to wholesaling and retailing is beginning to pay off.

“We want to be the best at one thing and that’s bagels,” says Treviranus. “You sit there and go, ‘We could be making more money if we were doing poached eggs, scrambled eggs, salads’, but that’s not what we’re about.

We’re building a bagel business, and offering salads isn’t building a bagel business.”

“It’s tempting,” Young adds. “[However], marketing turns it into a brand play and then it’s like what are you doing to the brand? ‘Smoking Gun, the place where they do wood-fired granola?’ Nope.”

Beyond developing new products within a niche range, operators can diversify their businesses in myriad ways — it’s just a matter of developing the right method to suit the model. For concepts like Ika8, HBCT and Pafu, it’s necessary to stay front of mind.

“Marketing is extremely important for us,” says Pham. “We’re in Melbourne where there is wealth of culinary options. Luckily, we’re new and that provides a bit of interest. If anything, it’s raising awareness where squid doesn’t have to be the second option.”

For HBCT and Pafu, marketing is crucial.

“All our engagements are mostly through our social media pages,” says Leong.

“It’s where we communicate with our consumers and the main channels of promotions and advertisements.”

Social media also allows the brand to stay on top how its audience is evolving, with customer behaviour dictating decisions about what to do next.

CHALLENGES Pros and cons abound when it comes to single-focus models.

November 2018 Hospitality 37

single-focus venues

Giant squid from Ika8

“All attention goes into polishing it, which allows us to deliver a quality product,” says Leong. “Customers can expect a certain standard, but offering a niche product also means casting a narrower net that catches a smaller percentage of the market.”

Population and costs of doing business are key challenges for HBCT and Pafu, with the population in ST Group’s other markets denser and higher compared to Australia.

“Businesses [in Asia] are presented with more opportunities to grow at a quicker rate due to those factors,” says Leong. “In Australia, we have to be mindful to control the pace of growth. Grow too quickly, and businesses face the risk of an early burnout.”

Wholesale and retail avenues might be a move to build the Smoking Gun business, but increasing revenue never comes easy.

“For us, the struggle with wholesale is that most people will sign up to suppliers and get all their bread products from one place — whereas we only offer one thing,” says Young.

Staffing is also a challenge for most hospitality businesses — is it more or less of a problem for single-focus venues?

“Another component that is always a challenge in the industry is the cost of labour,” says Leong. “Nonetheless, our business model of selling a single line of product allows us to reduce labour intensity compared to other F&B retailers such as restaurants and cope with the cost demands.”

The cost of labour is just one concern.

38 Hospitality November 2018

Finding any kind of labour is another widespread concern which is often magnified by singlefocus venues that require specific skills.

It’s been near impossible to find trained bagel bakers in Australia, meaning Smoking Gun has trained each and every baker on their roster.

During their North American travels, Treviranus and Young spent weeks learning the ins and outs of bagel making and connecting with bagelmakers across the continent.

A meeting with the owner of Montreal’s StViateur Bagel led to securing one of their bakers, who came out to develop the recipe and train bakers in Australia for six weeks.

“At Baker’s Delight they turn up and turn on the deck ovens, set the thermostat and that’s it,” says Young. “We’re like, ‘By the way, you’re going to have to chop wood, stack wood, light the wood fire and roll everything’. There’s more labour [involved] and it’s a lot harder than what people are prepared for. We’ve got guys who are excited by all that now, but it took a while for us to get them.”

Although Ika8 is just setting out on their journey, Pham is conscious about the challenge of retaining staff. “We acknowledge that having them specialise in a certain area can become quite regimented overtime,” she says. “We need to consider what we are doing in the wider business to ensure they’re enjoying it and are motivated in different ways.”

Ultimately, single-focus venues are the result of operators’ passion for a specific product — a characteristic that lends itself to success and makes the challenges well worth it. n

“All attention goes into polishing it and this allows us to deliver a quality product.”

– Jason Leong

I want crispy, delicious fries delivered every time.

Many customers skip delivery fries for fear they’ll be soggy.

NEW

Introducing new Crispy on Delivery Fries. A groundbreaking solution that combines a revolutionary fry coating with innovative packaging and delivery support for fries that stay crispy up to 30 minutes.† Contact your Lamb Weston sales representative or visit LambWeston.com/DeliveryAU

©2018 Lamb Weston Holdings, Inc. All rights reserved.

Fear of soggy fries from GlobalData custom delivery report 2018 †Optimal consumer liking intervals based on sensory tests 2015 & 2017: delivery cup necessary for achieving 30 minutes of crispiness

shelf space

Some like it hot

Melbourne barbecue experts Fancy Hank’s have launched a dedicated barbecue and hot sauce range. Original BBQ works well with pulled pork and the Coffee & Molasses variety is recommended for beef brisket.

Hot sauces include Cayenne & Watermelon, described as fresh, fruity and mild; Jalapeño & Peach, a sweet and tangy sauce with medium heat and Habanero & Carrot which the team recommends to use sparingly. The sauces are made using all-Australian ingredients and are available at Fancy Hank’s, online and at select Melbourne retailers. fancyhanks.com

Ramble away

Sydney brewers Young Henrys are launching a limited-edition premium whiskey dubbed Ramblin Man which will be available from December. Ramblin Man is one of the oldest whiskies to be released in Australia and was crafted using barrels from Tasmania’s Sullivans Cove French Oak, which was awarded World’s Best Whiskey.

The production of the spirit was finished in Newtown in Sherry casks. There will be 362 bottles released priced at $500 each. younghenrys.com

Fever pitch

Fever-Tree has teamed up with Patrón Tequila to create FeverTree Citrus tonic water, which is available for a limited time only.

The beverage features Mexican limes, tangerines and bitter orange, and was specifically crafted for tequila pairings. The key ingredients were all sourced from Mexico, with limes found in Colima and Michoacán, tangerines in Veracruz and bitter orange selected from Yucatán. The tonic is available at leading restaurants and bars across the globe. fever-tree.com

40 Hospitality November 2018

Pretty in pink

After the launch of Gordon’s Premium Pink gin in Australia earlier in the year, the brand has added Premium Pink gin and soda to the range. The ready-to-drink beverage is available in 330ml size and combines strawberries, raspberries and redcurrants with soda and gin. The serves are made using natural fruit flavours for a highquality berry taste with a delicate fruity sweetness. The drink retails for $21.99 for a four pack and sits at 4 per cent ABV. gordonsgin.com

For the diary

Upcoming events in the hospitality industry. Find out more at hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Margaret River Gourmet Escape

Australasian Hospitality Industry Exhibition

16–18 November Gourmet Escape returns to Margaret River with Nigella Lawson, Rick Stein and Tetsuya Wakuda headlining the annual food festival. There will be more than 45 events across 25 picturesque locations with local chefs including Matt Stone, Jo Barrett and Guy Grossi joining international names including Louis Tikaram, Niki Nakayama and Skye Gyngell. There will be plenty of wine and produce on show at the Gourmet Village which will feature over 120 artisan food producers, winemakers and brewers from Western Australia. gourmetescape.com.au

29–31 May 2019 The Australasian Hospitality Industry Exhibition, also known as Hospex, is returning to Sydney in 2019. First held in 1985, Hospex is making a comeback to showcase the latest innovations, products and services for all providers of hospitality services including hotels, motels, clubs, pubs, cafés, restaurants, hospitals and schools. Taking place at Sydney Olympic Park, the event will also include a conference and seminar series addressing issues of development, design, fit-out and technology for new and existing venues. hospex.com.au

Australian Pork Symposium

8–11 August 2019 The new four-day destination food festival will launch on the Sunshine Coast, celebrating the tight-knit relationships between chef and producer that have come to define Australia’s restaurant industry. While the full festival line-up won’t be revealed until March 2019, it has been confirmed Tokyo’s Zaiyu Hasegawa, from two-Michelin-Star restaurant Den, is set to headline the festival, joining Sunshine Coast chef Daniel Jarrett for a special collaboration at one-hatted venue The Tamarind. thecuratedplate.com.au

20 November Australian Pork is set to host a symposium for foodservice professionals at Ryde TAFE on Tuesday 20 November. The free event will cover six key topics including industry trends and boosting profits. This year’s agenda will discover everything from pork for profit and maximising yields to the science of menu design. It will also look at staying ahead with social media, the industry in focus and 360 degrees of inspiration. australianpork.com.au

The Curated Plate

Use code

It’s easy to switch & save on your Business Insurance.

Compare Insure Save

HOS25 to get

$25 off *

FREE multiple quotes online in minutes your business and receive your documents instantly yourself time and money, backed by our Price Promise

Ready to compare? bizcover.com.au

1300 952 849

*$25 discount cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. This information is general advice only and doesn’t take into consideration your particular objectives, financial situation or needs.

Before making a decision please consider the relevant Policy Wording. BizCover™ Pty Ltd (ABN 68 127 707 975; AFSL 501769). © 2018 BizCover. BC1096

November 2018 Hospitality 41

5 minutes with ...

John Rivera executive chef, Restaurant Lûmé

The young chef won the Pacific region of the S. Pellegrino Young Chef competition, but he’s about to take on his biggest role yet as executive chef of a Melbourne institution.

M I feel ready.

It’s a daunting experience, but I love being thrown in the deep end and told to swim.

42 Hospitality November 2018

y year away from Lûmé was formative. As a young cook, especially when you’ve been at a certain place for a long time, all your creativity and thinking resembles that place. I was able to learn how to cook instinctively and build on my fundamentals — I feel more confident as a cook now. But in that time, I was also able to delve deeper into my culture and upbringing and understand better what modern Australian cuisine means to me.

When Shaun approached me with the opportunity to lead Lûmé into the next chapter, it was something I couldn’t refuse. Lûmé will always have a place in my heart — it’s like the home you grew up in. The nurturing culture, the people that make Lûmé, the beautiful dining room, the toys to play with, the innovative thinking, the freedom to think outside the box ... the list goes on.

I feel ready. It’s a daunting experience, but I love being thrown in the deep end and told to swim. Guests can expect a shorter, more concise menu with more choice. It will be flavour-focused and fun.

Winning the Pacific region of S. Pellegrino Young Chef competition and making it to the top seven of the grand final had a massive effect on my life, not just professionally, but personally as well.

Professionally, it opened many doors and

opportunities within the industry and it helped to build lasting friendships and a global network of young, likeminded chefs. As a person, it helped me develop confidence in my own cooking style and the kind of cuisine I wanted to create. The competition reaffirmed for me that cooking differently and being unorthodox is a great thing.

I was never a competition cook, and I never really had any ambition to do competitions or be in the spotlight, but Shaun nagged me to do it. He saw potential in me and my food and he wouldn’t let me get away with not pursuing it, which is something I’m forever grateful for. Shaun told me that it wasn’t about winning or making a name for yourself, but a way to gauge yourself and your capabilities alongside others who are highly regarded in their field.

Scott Pickett is an incredible mentor.

He’s a seasoned professional when it comes to competition settings and it goes without saying he’s also a great chef.

Scott taught me how to be organised and to plan every step and every minute of the competition rigorously. We had gone through every scenario that could’ve happened and it made me much more confident when going over to Milan. Every cook needs support and someone to look up to. n

HANDCR AFTED TO AN

authentic

ITALIAN RECIPE

JUST THAW, CREATE & BAKE! Unique Each pizza is handcrafted.

Authentic Made to a traditional and authentic Italian recipe.

Convenient A range of sizes, from 2”-14.5” round to a large rectangle slab.

Versatile Perfect with any topping.

Quick & easy Pre-baked, just thaw, top & bake.

Consistent Premium quality ingredients for perfect results every time.

Cost effective Reduces preparation time & labour costs.

Australian owned & made and very proud of it!

CONTACT US TODAY Letizza Bakery A 5 Tait Street, Smithfield NSW 2164 T 1800 107 520 E sales@letizza.com.au

WWW.LETIZZA.COM.AU