Hospitality October 2021 by The Intermedia Group

NO.777 OCTOBER 2021

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QBA MILK BUN BENEFITS Firm glazed outer crust

Texture absorbs delicious juices

Versatile to pair with sweet or savoury fillings

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fssocial@goodmanfielder.com.au

Sales & Customer Service 1300 366 533

NO.777 OCTOBER 2021

PISCO SOUR • MORTADELLA • ITALIAN PASTRIES • BRANDING

CONTENTS // October

Contents OCTOBER 2021

Regulars 8 // IN FOCUS A look at the soon-to-launch Lode Pies. 12 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more. 14 // BEST PRACTICE Getting back into business after lockdown. 16 // PRODUCE The Geraldton waxflower is an Australian native with a citrusy tang. 20 // DRINKS The pisco sour is highly underrated and underappreciated.

4 | Hospitality

26 // PROFILE Chef Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez on sustainable food production and Mexican cuisine. 50 // EQUIPMENT The funnel is a must-have for jams and sauces. 52 // BEHIND THE SCENES Darvella Pâtisserie’s strawberries and cream croissant. 54 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Owner of Roxy’s Double Bay Damien Monley.

Features 32 // ITALIAN PASTRIES From cannoli to maritozzi, Italian sweet treats are bountiful. 36 // MORTADELLA The cured meat is in the spotlight thanks to local artisans and chefs. 40 // BRANDING Cohesive brand strategies to convey a venue’s identity. 46 // SOUR BEER A staple for craft breweries in Sydney.

www.nestleprofessional.com.au/food-solutions/gravy-mix

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

GOOD BONES Valentinas in Marrickville has set a new standard for diner dining. @hospitalitymagazine

Welcome back THE NEWS WE have all been waiting for

offering diners a glimpse and a taste of

has finally come, and I couldn’t be more

everyday Mexican dishes.

thrilled to be able to sit down at a restaurant

A LITTLE EGGPLANT PARM Layers of custardy eggplant and torn mozzarella à la Alison Roman. @annabellecloros

We cover Italian pastries with cannoli

once again. I can only imagine how much

king Frank Portelli from Mezzapica Cakes

greater the feeling is for chefs, front-of-

and Flavio Carnevale from Marta, who has

house professionals and every other member

made lockdown much more bearable with

of the hospitality community in New South

his Roman bakery. There are features on sour

Wales and Victoria who have slogged it out

beer and the changing face of mortadella

during lockdown to get to this point. It’s only

as well as a look at Geraldton wax and Lode;

upwards from here, and I know the industry is

the ultra-luxe new bakery from Lumi Head

going to run it home for the rest of the year.

Chef Federico Zanellato.

The October issue features a profile

I hope you enjoy this issue.

on Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez, a Mexican chef who was the only vegan at his culinary

Until next time,

school. He went on to study permaculture

Annabelle Cloros

in Australia and opened his first restaurant

Editor

BREEZY CAPRESE Bringing Naples home with produce from Carriageworks. @aristinedob

in Sydney’s Newtown called Maiz last year,

@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Aristine Dobson adobson@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

CIRCULATIONS To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymag azine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

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DISCLAIMER This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2021 – The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd

6 | Hospitality

41 Bridge Road Glebe NSW 2037 Australia Tel: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419

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IN FOCUS // Lode Pies

Another piece of the pie Lumi Dining’s Federico Zanellato has opened a pie shop that celebrates the chef’s cult pastry — the pithivier. WORDS Aristine Dobson

MAKING PASTRY IS an intricate and laborious task. The trick is to

take it layer by layer, folding then rolling to build a delicate stack of butter and dough. It is a crucial component of a pithivier, a classic

French pie that can be sweet or savoury. The complex creation has

been career-altering for Lumi Dining’s Head Chef Federico Zanellato. The item first featured on Lumi’s degustation menu and is the

centerpiece for Zanellato’s new venture Lode Pies, which is slated to open in Sydney’s Surry Hills this year.

When Zanellato first began making pithivier, there were many

trial and error sessions in the kitchen. He went on to master the

technique and create a sought-after menu item. “When we went into the first lockdown, we put it on the online menu at Lumi,” says Zanellato. “It was so popular we just couldn’t keep up the production because everything was made by hand.”

The crowd response was overwhelming, and requests were soon

made to buy the item outside of dining at the restaurant. The chef listened and is in the midst of launching Lode Pies, which will

focus on classic French pastries and comfort food that reference his early career. “When I was working at The Ritz London, there were a lot of these kinds of pastries, but I was never allowed to touch

any of those unfortunately,” says Zanellato. “I was very young back then and there were always very skilled and talented chefs looking after the pithiviers and all that stuff.”

Unlike traditional bakeries, Lode will hit pause on bread and instead revolve around Zanellato’s signature puff pastry and

croissant dough in varying forms. “Some people use shortcrust

pastry to do the pie, but I’ve always loved the flakiness and the flavour of puff pastry,” says the chef. 8 | Hospitality

in pâtisserie. But for Zanellato, the most

sheeter and a special chiller to store dough,

showcasing the craftsmanship involved

challenging part of Lode’s inception has

been refining his dough recipe. “It all starts with the initial lamination,” he says. “The moment you crack the butter or it’s too

warm and gets incorporated into the pastry, you’ve lost layers,” he says.

Following the theme of all things French,

the chef is also looking to add traditional pastries to the range such as a galette

in line with the technique exhibited in the pithivier; in fact, Zanellato is planning to construct a rose-shaped cake out of

croissant rolls. “We cut very small rolls

the flavour of

searching for Australian options, he says

nothing compares to the French. “I would

eventually love to get a Lode Pies Australian butter sheet, but it’s very, very hard to beat

the French; it is the only thing at the moment that we are importing for the shop.”

Lode has recently dabbled in a collaboration

The dessert options will be elaborate and

loved the flakiness and

butter for the job. Although Zanellato is

croissants will cover combinations of by Pino’s Dolce Vita.

the pie, but I’ve always

but the next obstacle is finding the right

The uncertainty of the pandemic has made

parmesan and sage along with ‘nduja made

shortcrust pastry to do

is currently set up for action with a dough

des rois, chausson with pear and coconut as well as choux au craquelin. Savoury

“Some people use

When it comes to shop equipment,

Zanellato is taking it back to basics. Lode

it tricky to navigate an official opening, but

with Arthur restaurant, which is also located in Surry Hills. “I think there will be other

things coming up for sure,” says Zanellato. “We are doing a lot of family sizes for Vic’s Meat at the moment and we’re probably going to do some stuff for CopperTree Farms, but that’s all for now.”

There’s much anticipation around what’s

and we put them next to each other,” says

to come, but an ongoing bake sale at Lumi

anything that looks like a croissant; we

expect from Lode. “We’re going to focus

the chef. “But we’re not going to shape will have all different shapes. It’s more

interesting than a croissant or a pain au chocolat shape.”

is a window into what consumers can

and make sure everything is of a super

high standard and has interesting flavour combinations in the pastry.” ■

puff pastry.” – Federico Zanellato

October 2021 | 9

IN FOCUS // Lode Pies

The shop will be an exploration of iconic

pastries that are complex in production,

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NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Tropical vibes Ballistic Beer Co has added Low Ha to its line up; an ‘Aussie’ pale ale with a full malt body and fruity notes. It also happens to be low carb, hence the name. Head Brewer Lachy Crothers says it has aromas of citrus, mango and berries and a dry finish. The brew took six months to develop and only has 2.2g of carbs per can. The beer sits at 4 per cent ABV and is currently available at liquor stores in Queensland before going national shortly. ballisticbeer.com

Exploring culinary diversity and heritage The Latin American Cookbook Virgilio Martínez Phaidon; $65 Central’s Virgilio Martínez has put together a book that encompasses 22 countries and 600

Mount Zero goes big for summer

recipes created with the input of village elders,

Victorian producer Mount Zero is celebrating the warmer months with the

anthropologists, books and home cooks. Readers

launch of three products. The brand has released new-look olive pouches that

can try their hand at goat stew, green mango salad

come in three flavourways: salt-cured Kalamata; citrus and thyme marinated

or fermented corn juice, with each recipe falling into

and pepperberry and rosemary marinated ($4.50). There’s also the highly

a specific food group. The book features images

coveted yuzu extra virgin olive oil made in collaboration with Mountain Yuzu

captured by Peruvian food photographer Jimena

($25.95), which has been re-released after initially selling out. Dirty olive brine

Agois along with an introduction on Latin American

rounds out the offering and has been bottled in 100ml and 330ml ($12.95) sizes.

food, detailed stories about ingredients and a

The brine is a by product of the curing process and is a must for a dirty martini.

comprehensive glossary. Released 15 October 2021.

mountzeroolives.com

12 | Hospitality

Bourbon lovers may not be able to head to the US, but they can experience a Wild Turkey virtual tasting through Amazon or Google. The audio sessions see drinkers join master distillers Jimmy and Eddie Russell who cover Wild Turkey 101, Longbranch, Rare Breed and Kentucky Spirit. Bruce Russell and Joan Street also weigh in on everything from the whiskey-making process to flavour profiles, using the right glassware and the history behind the brand. wildturkey.com.au

Tea time South Pacific Cacao’s Jessica Pedemont is repurposing cacao husks to make tea. The chocolatier and chef has worked with a local coffee company to roast and grind the husks which are then packed into dunk-able sachets. Pedemont says the tisane has a “heady, rich, dark chocolate aroma that’s light and bright on the palate yet chocolatey enough to satisfy cravings”. The pouches are now available for $22 for 10. southpacificcacao.com

Little Creatures debut IPA and Pacific ale Local brewery Little Creatures is celebrating 21 years with the launch of two new products: Pacific ale and Hazy IPA which will join the core range. “Little Creatures Pacific ale has a soft fizz and passionfruit aroma, with a slightly dry yet super-refreshing finish,” says Russ Gosling, head brewer. “Our previous IPA was more of a west coast style, which was quite hop-forward, but our new Hazy IPA has bigger, juicier, fruitier flavours.” Both ales are available in four and 16 packs in new cans featuring revised branding. littlecreatures.com.au

When two become one Melbourne vegan meccas Smith & Daughters and Smith & Deli have stood alone: until now. Owner and Executive Chef Shannon Martinez has decided to roll the concepts into one mega venue on Cambridge Street in Collingwood. The move sees the deli open for dine-in service for the first time, with breakfast, lunch and dinner available in a cafeteria-style format. The restaurant side of the venue has 80 seats with a menu that will revolve seasonally. There are also plenty of options to take home covering ready-made meals and groceries. October 2021 | 13

NEWS // Entrée

Wild Turkey launches global virtual tastings

BEST PRACTICE // Reopening

Back in business Reopen with optimism and energy. WORDS Ken Burgin

REMEMBER THAT SAYING ‘don’t

more staff? People know space is

Don’t let takeaway slip

waste a crisis?’ The COVID-19

at a premium and understand time

Online ordering for delivery or

experience has made us more

restrictions and minimum charges

takeaway is part of the new

resilient and creative after the

— introduce a digital queueing

normal. Make sure you use an

rinse and repeat cycle of going

and waitlist system integrated with

efficient app that integrates

into lockdown and reopening. It’s

bookings and table management.

with your website. Add food

exhausting, but we’ve survived.

Bills in Sydney do this so well.

boxes to the delivery menu;

When you reopen the doors,

celebration packs for birthdays,

Streamline the menu and kitchen operations

office parties and gifts can be

fresh and focused, lean, efficient and ready for profits.

Customers have less money, so

during the holiday season.

come back with a business that’s

high value and peak in popularity

fancy pricing is harder to justify,

Scrub, repaint and reorganise

but they still want great flavours. Your new menu will ease back

Improve customer connections

Fresh colours and posters on

on expensive proteins and focus

Upgrade your social posts with

the walls, shiny clean surfaces

more on carbs and vegetables.

more humans and less boasting

and better chairs. Reorganise

Strict recipe costing is the new

— we love your food, now show

the counter, fix the display

normal, and you’ll make good

us the cook and the people who

fridge and replace toilet seats

money on value meals.

The COVID-19 experience has made us more resilient and creative after the rinse and repeat cycle of going into lockdown and reopening.

deliver it. Consider posting more

and commenting. Use your social

Look for pre-prepared

community-related content from

media platforms to keep the

Update lighting and create a

food that meets your quality

offering discounts to healthcare

public updated on new menu

new playlist to go with your

standards — with staff hard to

professionals to shouting out

items and products. If you ran

sound system.

find, can you get by with three

teachers. Send a friendly email

Zoom events during lockdown,

people in the kitchen when

to your database every month

keep going — you’re adding a

Improve your capacity to boost sales

you previously employed four?

to establish rapport with your

new sales channel and helping

There are manufacturers who

customer base.

to diversify.

There are rules about vaccinations

will cook to your recipes and

and customer behaviour, and you’ll

specifications. Don’t leave

‘back in business’ and encourage

welcome people back. For

have to handle people who want

chefs out of the reset — there

customers to post on Instagram.

example, when customers spend

to bend them. Does the layout

are excellent new automation

If there’s a local hashtag, add

$40 in one transaction, they’ll

need rearranging to create space

options for cooking, cleaning

that, too. If customers mention

receive a $20 credit to use on

for pick ups? Do you need as many

and food preparation.

your name in a post, be sure to

their next visit. Be generous; it’s a

thank them by liking their photos

great tactic for repeat business. ■

— customers notice these things.

seats, especially if that means 14 | Hospitality

Make a big sign that says

Finally, add a special to

ADVERTORIAL // TABASCO® Sauce

Barbecued–glazed prawns on crispy chicken skin with TABASCO® Green Sauce Chef Jason Anderson reveals his innovative take on prawn toast using TABASCO® Brand Green Jalapeño Sauce. JASON ANDERSON IS the head chef

barbecued prawns and green sauce.

of Brisbane’s Buffalo Bar, a restaurant

“The prawns are barbecued before

known for serving up classic American

they’re moved to a bowl and glazed

dishes. Anderson applies his

over a flame in chilli, lime, garlic and

contemporary cooking style to well-

tomato,” says Anderson. “It’s finished

known favourites including TABASCO®

off with shallots and dill.”

Green Sauce. The sauce is made from

The green sauce adds brightness

mild green jalapeño chillies that have

to the dish and binds everything

a tangy, zesty flavour.

together. “I chose the TABASCO®

The inspiration behind Anderson’s

Green Sauce because I eat it

dish is prawn toast, which brings back

a lot; it’s actually my favourite

nostalgic childhood memories for

TABASCO®,” says Anderson. “I put

the chef. “It is fried chicken skin in a

it on a lot of things, but I think it

spiced rice flour, then we have a bread

enhances the flavour of the herbs

mayonnaise,” says the chef. “We have a

and the other elements. I just think

green sauce which consists of coriander

it’s a great sauce.” ■

dill, garlic, pickles and TABASCO® Green Sauce.” Balanced flavour profiles are created with each component in the prawn toast iteration. The creaminess of the mayonnaise and the crispiness of the chicken is complemented by the acidity and spice that comes from the

Scan the QR code to watch the video October 2021 | 15

PRODUCE // Geraldton waxflower

Can be used as a fresh herb Leaves resemble pine needles Flowers have a waxy appearance

Endemic to Western Australia

Pink and white flowers bloom from late winter to spring

Geraldton waxflower The Australian native edible could fool you into thinking it’s lemongrass. WORDS Tawnya Bahr and Lucy Allon, Straight to the Source ILLUSTRATION Elena Fombertaux GERALDTON WAXFLOWER (Chamelaucium

have developed new colours, larger blooms,

fish and meat dishes, while the leaves can

uncinatum) is endemic to Western Australia

extended flowering periods and a waxflower

be stripped and processed in a mortar and

and is thought to only occur naturally on the

with outstanding edible properties,” he says.

pestle. “Waxflower is currently being used as

coastal Quindalup dunes between Perth

However, not all of Helix Australia’s

a fresh herb in restaurants, as a dry leaf in a

and Geraldton. The native shrub produces a

waxflower varieties are suitable for cooking.

waxflower and lemon tea, as a fresh botanical

proliferation of white and pink flowers from late

To find the best one, the company ran various

in gin, as a freeze-dried powder in beer and in

winter to spring and is prized for its culinary

blind taste tests with chefs before selecting

some baking products,” says Parsons.

uses and as a cut flower.

a hybrid. For Parsons, the culinary variety

Perth-based plant breeder Adrian Parsons

Perth-based Executive Chef Jed Gerrard

of waxflower offers chefs and mixologists a

from the Ritz-Carlton has been championing

was one of the early commercial producers

point of difference as well as great promise

geraldton wax on his menus since discovering

of Geraldton waxflower, cultivating it for its

in lifting the flavour profile of various menu

it a few years ago, and it’s increasingly being

edible properties. With a zesty, citrus tang, the

items. “Waxflower could potentially be the

spotted on other menus across the country

edible leaves — which resemble pine needles

next edible Australian lemongrass,” he says.

at restaurants including Attica and Rockpool

— and waxy flowers have a flavour similar to lemongrass, lemon myrtle or kaffir lime. Parsons runs Helix Australia, which is

Similar to an aromatic culinary herb and an accessible addition to the kitchen garden,

Bar & Grill. With a unique flavour profile and

waxflower is a versatile plant as the stems

versatility across many different foodservice

one of the world’s largest breeders of

and the leaves can be used in cooking. For

applications, we expect to see much more of

waxflower. “The Helix range is unique as we

instance, the fresh stems can be added to

the native Australian ingredient soon. ■

16 | Hospitality

CMY

www.peerlessfoodservice.com.au

QBA SRIRACHA MILK BUN

FIVE SPICE CHICKEN BURGER INGREDIENTS - ¼ teaspoon five spice powder - 20ml soy sauce - 20ml chinese cooking wine - 3g ginger puree - 125g chicken breast - 1 QBA Sriracha Milk Bun, split - 30g butter lettuce - 2g red onion, sliced

- 75g carrot, shredded - 70g avocado, sliced - 2g coriander sprigs SOY GINGER AIOLI - 2.5ml soy sauce - 3g ginger puree - 40g Praise Classic Mayo

METHOD 1. Combine the five spice powder, soy sauce, chinese cooking wine and ginger puree in a bowl. Add chicken, marinate for 30 minutes.

2. Prepare the soy ginger aioli by combining the soy, ginger and Praise

ON YOUR MENU

Classic Mayo. Cover and refrigerate.

3. Heat a chargrill over high heat. Remove chicken from marinade. Chargrill until cooked through. Remove and keep warm.

4. Toast the cut sides of the bun and spread with the soy ginger aioli.

Top with lettuce, chicken, red onion, carrot, avocado and coriander sprigs. Serve.

Scan the code to learn more about the QBA Milk Bun range.

Serving suggestion – serve with a drizzle of Sriracha sauce if desired

COST PER SERVE $4.79*

QBA Sriracha Milk Bun QBA MILK BUN PRODUCT CODE: 177448 PRAISE CLASSIC MAYO PRODUCT CODE: 176144 Savoury flavour with a hint of chilli & a spicy garlic kick that pairs amazingly with Praise Classic Mayo.

gffoodservice.com.au wwwgffoodservice.com.au /gffoodserviceau

fssocial@goodmanfielder.com.au

Sales & Customer Service 1300 366 533

QBA SMOKEY BBQ MILK BUN

WH EN

INGREDIENTS - 100g streaky bacon rasher - 1 QBA Smokey BBQ Milk Bun, split - 20g ETA Original BBQ Sauce - 10g baby rocket - 25g dill pickle, sliced

METHOD

1. Combine the beef mince and dried thyme. Season well with salt and pepper. Form into a large flat patty shape. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

2. Heat a chargrill over high heat. Grill the beef patty until cooked through. Remove and rest, keeping warm.

- 180g beef mince (3 star) - ¼ teaspoon dried thyme - Salt and cracked black pepper, to taste - 2g clove garlic, crushed - 25ml olive oil - 75g button mushrooms, thinly sliced

URCHASE A CA P U RT YO

OF ON

BEEF, BACON AND MUSHROOM BURGER

K AVO U RED MIL

3. Heat a flat plate grill or frying pan over medium heat. Mix together the garlic

and olive oil, season with salt and pepper. Add the mushrooms and toss to coat.

4. When the flat plate is heated, saute the mushrooms until golden. 5. Whilst the mushrooms are cooking, grill the bacon until golden and crisp. 6. Toast the cut sides of the bun and spread with the ETA Original BBQ Sauce. Top with baby rocket, beef patty, bacon, mushrooms and pickle. Serve.

COST PER SERVE $5.37* Firm glazed outer crust

Freezer fresh for 6 months

Texture absorbs delicious juices

Reduced carton size

QBA Smokey BBQ Milk Bun QBA MILK BUN PRODUCT CODE: 177449 ETA ORIGINAL BBQ SAUCE PRODUCT CODE: 126518 Rich & Smokey notes balanced with a dash of traditional BBQ sweetness pairs with ETA Original BBQ Sauce.

TO CLAIM, GO TO GFFOODSERVICE.COM.AU/PROMOTIONS **T&CS APPLY. AU HOSPITALITY VENUES ONLY. PURCHASE BETWEEN 27/9/21 & 21/11/21. CLAIM BY 11:59PM AEDST 5/12/21. MAX 1 CLAIM P/VENUE. RETAIN RECEIPT *BASED ON RRP

DRINKS // Pisco sour

A CENTURY IS a long time to hit it big,

but for the pisco sour, it just hasn’t been

long enough (in Australia). The cocktail

Pucker up

was created somewhere between 1915

The pisco sour is an underappreciated and seriously underrated cocktail.

popularity and went on to become the

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

and 1922 by American immigrant Victor Vaughen Morris, who opened the Morris

Bar in Lima, Peru. It’s here where the pisco sour made its debut in the form of a riffed whiskey sour. The drink skyrocketed in

national drink of Peru and arguably Chile; both of which produce pisco.

But the pisco sour has yet to make waves

in the Australian cocktail industry outside of Latin American venues, which are

sitting on a seriously under-the-radar drink lauded by those in the know.

Hospitality talks to Black Pearl’s Felix

Woods and Ekeko’s Cameron Alexander about the nuances of pisco, their go-to

techniques for nailing the fluffy-headed

sour and why the cocktail will likely lay low for a little while longer.

Pisco might look like gin or vodka, but it’s a far cry from both; it’s a type of brandy

made from wine or fermented fruit juice. More specifically, eight aromatic or nonaromatic grape varietals. Quebranta, Negra Criolla, Uvina and Mollar are

non-aromatic, with Moscatel, Torontel,

Italia and Albilla falling into the aromatic

category. And that’s just in Peru. The rules are a little more relaxed in Chile, where pisco can be made from 14 varietals. The differences between the pisco

production processes in Peru and Chile also encompass distillation. Peruvian producers can only distill pisco one time in a copper

pot still. It also has to be distilled to proof

(38–48 per cent ABV) from wine and there are no additions — which means sugar and water are a big no. In Chile, pisco

can undergo multiple distillations and is

commonly aged in wood. The country also

regulates pisco on the amount of alcohol it has, which varies from 30 to 43 per cent. Furthermore, there are tiers of pisco:

Puro, Acholado and Mosto Verde. Acholado has a single origin, meaning it’s made

from just one grape varietal that can be

aromatic or non-aromatic. Mosto Verde is

distilled from wine that is sweet and semifermented while Acholados is made from two or more varietals. 20 | Hospitality

DRINKS // Pisco sour

That being said, pisco has flown under the

a hard one to explain to people who may

Cameron Alexander knew a little about pisco

it’s technically an unaged grape brandy, it’s

radar in the Australian bar scene. Bartender before he started working at Melbourne’s

Ekeko, but discovered a whole new world in

the months that followed. “I thought it was a spirit made from something that grows there [Peru],” says Alexander. “It’s quite rare you find pisco at a lot of places.”

person making it — achieving balance is

not a very useful phrase outside of a WSET

same time, but it can’t have too much lime

exam,” says Woods. “I’d be more inclined to liken it to gin in terms of its floral,

citrusy profile; even if they’re a million miles apart on paper.”

Ekeko is a Peruvian restaurant that

opened its doors earlier in the year, and

one of its defining elements has to be the

pisco-dominated drinks list. The bar favours

the use of Quebranta and works with a local supplier to source more elusive bottles. “Melbourne Pisco Company is amazing

and we use their Mosto Verde Torontel,”

says Alexander. “Pisco has a beautiful and unique flavour that should always be the most important thing in a cocktail. You

don’t make a Southside with bad gin; don’t

“If someone has had a pisco sour before, they sell themselves.” – Cameron Alexander A pisco sour is made from a handful of

Woods stocks the bar with a number of

and bitters. “The citrus can be lemon, lime

different piscos and also favours Quebranta. “I love a Peruvian Quebranta and BarSol

does a great one,” he says. “Torontel piscos

are a little harder to come by, but are pretty special and worth tracking down. Our

house pisco is a blend of Barsol Quebranta from Peru and Waqar from Chile, which

uses muscat grapes and brings a beautiful floral dimension to the drink.”

When asked to describe the flavour

profile of the spirit, the bartender says it’s

make or break. “It’s sweet and sour at the otherwise it’s puckery,” says Alexander.

“Getting the right sugar syrup ratio is also

key. We use a 2:3 formula so it’s silkier and it affects the mouthfeel. The limes need

to be fresh and you need to make sure the juice doesn’t ferment at all.”

make a pisco sour with bad pisco.”

Over at the Black Pearl, Manager Felix

And that means it all comes down to the

not have tried pisco before. “Even though

Once all the ingredients (sans bitters)

are put in a shaker, a pisco sour requires a double shake: one chills the drink and the

other generates the sour’s signature foamy head. Woods says the order of the shakes

are interchangeable. “The dry shake [can

happen] before the ice shake or after, but

it’s got to be done,” says the bartender. “At Black Pearl … [we] dry shake, ice shake,

double strain into a frozen coupe [and put] a few drops of Chuncho bitters on top.”

The Ekeko bar team also dry shake first

elements: pisco, sugar, citrus, egg white

and then test the formula to make sure

or both; the sugar should be good old 1:1

to chill down the drink. “It really needs to

simple; the egg white should be fresh and free-range or a vegan substitute such as

aqua faba or soap bark,” says Woods. “The pisco can really be the first one you set

your eyes on — I’m sure there’s plenty of

subpar piscos out there, but given the lack of mass-market demand in Australia, it’s

really only the good stuff that makes it out here, so it’s pretty much impossible to pick the wrong one.”

nothing has been left out before ice shaking have that double shake to stretch out the

protein in the egg whites,” says Alexander. “People ask why our pisco sours have so

much foam, and I say, ‘Easy; I take out all my aggression on the shaker’. It needs to

be a violent and long shake, especially on

the dry. It’s not a rapid back and forth like you shake a spray paint can; it needs to

be a long movement so the proteins are stretching to get that fluffy head.”

October 2021 | 21

DRINKS // Pisco sour

An American

Fresh lime juice

immigrant created

is a pisco sour

the pisco sour in Peru

essential

Mango chilli is one

Pisco can be made

of Ekeko’s most

from 14 grape

popular orders

varietals in Chile

A stellar sour can also come down to the

says Alexander. “But the most recent syrup

and precision to speed of service. “It needs

clumped, so that was a bit disappointing.”

most simple tasks from fresh ingredients

to be served immediately,” says Alexander.

we had didn’t mix well with the egg; it

Woods’ twist is all about having a good

“After a time, there’s too much separation

time. “I have a drink on the Attic menu

Woods is on the same page, and suggests

quietly brilliant or a by-the-numbers crowd

between the egg and the rest of the drink.” “adding the egg white last or putting it in the top tin on its own — egg and booze

can get a bit spooky if you’re not careful”, he says.

The good thing about classic cocktails

is the tweaking potential, and the pisco sour is no different. Bartenders can try everything from a dual-spirit base to

called the Disco Sour, which is either

pleaser,” says the bartender. “It’s a split base

of Quebranta pisco and London dry gin with lemon, sugar, a splash of crème de pêche menu and there’s no good way of saying

from the original formula to make it

work. “We use 60ml of egg white rather

than 30ml, which is standard for a lot of sours,” says Alexander. “It has a really

nice silkiness and the rocoto chilli has an amazing flavour and spiciness.”

There’s also a chicha morada iteration;

a Peruvian beverage made with purple

corn that’s traditionally boiled in water with pineapple peel, quince, cinnamon and cloves before sugar is added. It’s

widespread across the country and is

commonly consumed as a soft drink. Ekeko uses chicha morada syrup in place of the

simple formula. “It’s been really popular,” 22 | Hospitality

it out here, so it’s pretty much impossible to pick the wrong one.” – Felix Woods

not mentioned it in the description.”

the rise in its own way. More of something

initial gin boom, with the next spirit du

drinks. The team had to alter the ratios

the good stuff that makes

I don’t see pisco quite reaching those

delicious, I’ve opted for a vegan foamer and

options including passionfruit and Incan

has proven to be one of the most-ordered

Australia, it’s really only

‘raw egg white’ and having it still sound

Tequila and mezcal have captured the

golden berries, but a mango chilli variation

mass-market demand in

and fresh mint garnish. Because it’s on the

trading out the citrus element. Ekeko’s pisco sour list features more than 10

“Given the lack of

attention of drinkers in a big way after the jour yet to be determined. As to whether

it could be pisco, Woods doesn’t think so. “And that’s in no way a reflection of the

booze itself,” he says. “There are so many

heights, though no doubt it’s very much on isn’t always better and you’re unlikely to

get tricked into buying some nightmarish

pisco-flavoured spirit drink or find yourself at an ethically questionable industry party wearing a branded poncho and sipping your sour out of an Incan god mug any time soon.”

Alexander is of the belief there’s just

other factors at play when we look at the

simply not enough consumer awareness.

to take into account Mexico’s geographical

“We’re more than happy to put a few mls

astronomical growth of tequila. You have and cultural proximity to the US and the

resulting cultural crossover as well as the success corporations have had in selling

the rest of us an idealised — and largely reductive — notion of Mexican ‘culture’

“People don’t know pisco,” he says.

in a glass and let people taste it alone

so they can understand it. But usually

if someone has had a pisco sour before, they sell themselves.”

Making a customer a drink they have

based around neatly packaged touchstones

never tried before is something to savour

beach and Día de Muertos.

[a pisco sour] to someone for the first

such as sombreros, hammocks on the

“Chile and Peru simply don’t hold that

same level of instant recognition and

fascination in the rest of the world, so

as a bartender. “I’ve literally never served time and had them not love it,” says

Woods, “which you really can’t say for a lot of drinks.” ■

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PROFILE // Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez

Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez Exploring can come with its risks, but for Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez, there is no greater joy than stepping up to the plate.

JUAN CARLOS NEGRETE Lopez was

in late 2020 with the goal of changing the

culinary school. He studied culinary arts and

conscious cooking.

vegan chef was viewed as a limitation by his

beginnings in Mexico, making the move to

WORDS Aristine Dobson

explore the potential of sustainable cooking

restaurant during adverse times.

the odd one out as the only vegan in his

gastronomy in Puebla, Mexico, where being a peers. But Lopez saw it as an opportunity to through the lens of Mexican cuisine.

A passion for permaculture and farming led

him to Australia, where he learned the ropes of rearing animals before he entered the kitchens of venues including Three Blue Ducks. Now,

he’s running his own show. The chef opened Maiz Mexican Street Food with his family 26 | Hospitality

perceptions of Mexican cuisine and advocating Lopez talks to Hospitality about his

Australia, taking up farming and opening a

Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez travelled while

studying, working in various parts of Mexico before heading to the US. Navigating

university was a challenge for the budding chef, who was often hit with lines of

questioning about his vegan diet. “Everyone

around a farm-to-table approach with a few

these airy-fairy hippie ideas, what the f**k

led to a growing interest in permaculture.

you’re studying to become a chef with all

is going on with you?’ˮ says Lopez. “I really wanted to prove veganism could be at the same high standard as the [food the] rest

of the chefs around me were striving for.” Despite criticism, Lopez was determined

“The name Maiz, which is the Spanish word for corn, is the foundation of Mexican cooking.” – Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez

to prove vegan cuisine had a place in an

vegan dishes added into the mix, which “I pursued growing our own food and

getting into sustainable food production,” says Lopez. “I started doing a little bit of permaculture in Mexico and decided to keep a bit of [that] knowledge going.”

Lopez became fascinated by the idea of

advanced culinary setting. “I went to New

growing his own produce and soon enough,

79 on Lexington Street,” he says. “It was the

to Australia to study permaculture further

York to work at a restaurant called Candle

restaurant to go to for vegan food. Celebrities like Paul McCartney, Natalie Portman and Alicia Silverstone used to go there.”

At the time, the now-closed Manhattan

venue was considered an institution when veganism was becoming a hot topic, and

Lopez was part of the action. “It was kind of like this whole vegan movement and

everyone was talking about it,” he says.

After the chef finished his studies in the

States, he found himself back in Mexico, where he started an organic catering

service with a friend. The venture revolved

it was time to make another move. “I came because Australia was where permaculture was born; in Tasmania,” he says.

As a chef, knowing the right producers

is invaluable, but for Lopez, it felt natural to cut out the middleman and become

one himself. “I was very surprised at how

little permaculture was known,” he says. “I thought it was a big thing in Australia, but apparently, it wasn’t. When I told people I was a chef, they said, ‘Why are you doing farming?’’’ and I was like, ‘Isn’t it obvious

that cooking and farming is intrinsic?’ For me at least, I look at them as one thing.”

October 2021 | 27

PROFILE // Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez

was asking me, ‘What are you doing?

PROFILE // Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez

Lopez was a vegan for five years before touching down in Australia where

his perspective changed. “I stopped

applied it with my cultural knowledge of Mexican food, which I grew up with.” An opportunity arose for Lopez to

being vegan when I did my course in

focus on Mexican cooking, but he

a farm raising my own pigs and lambs,

largely limited. “I worked at a few

sustainable food production and lived on harvesting honey and growing my own

veggies,” says Lopez. “I was taught how sustainable food production systems or ecosystems could only be possible with the aid of animals.”

Permaculture was a valuable skill

that helped him find a middle ground

noticed the options in Australia were Mexican restaurants after Three Blue Ducks and everyone was focused on

tacos and margaritas,” he says. “Hardly anyone was actually exploring other

types of Mexican food, and that’s where I saw a huge gap in the market.”

and gave him a unique skillset when

Lopez opened Maiz Mexican Street Food

with Three Blue Ducks. “Working five

what true Mexican cooking really is.

stepping into his role as a head chef years for the same company really

helped broaden my knowledge of food and my skills,” says Lopez.

The fluid menu at Three Blue Ducks

exposed Lopez to a range of different

cuisines, providing plenty of room for growth and new learnings. “I grew a

in December last year to show diners

“As a Mexican and as a Mexican chef, I

could never go to a Mexican restaurant,

and go, ‘I feel like I’m eating like home’,” he says. “I think that was due to a lack of Mexican immigration to Australia,

especially Mexican chef immigration.” The menu at Maiz isn’t what most

lot as a chef through them and they

would typically expect from a Mexican

Lopez. “Their style is more oriented to

only open for breakfast and brunch.

have influenced how I cook today,” says Asian, South-East Asian and Italian.

Somehow, I’ve taken that approach of letting the food speak for itself and

28 | Hospitality

restaurant, mainly because it is currently It was an intentional decision to

demonstrate everyday dishes. “I think it

was a risky move, but it was a risky move

www.sim plotfood se

rvice.com

.au

PROFILE // Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez

that is actually working to our benefit because a lot of Australians have travelled to Mexico,” says Lopez. “Now, with a boom in

mezcal, a lot of people are travelling to Oaxaca, Puebla and Mexico City; not just Cancun, which is like an American paradise.”

The rewards have outweighed the risks as Maiz not only expands

the options for Mexican cuisine for diners, but also represents a

community that has been underrepresented in the local culinary

landscape. “Merivale went to Mexico and brought back a ridiculous amount of Mexican chefs to work in their restaurants,” says Lopez. “So many Mexican chefs are living in Sydney now that we don’t know of, but they’re slowly starting to emerge.”

Representation is important to Lopez and is woven throughout

every aspect of his venue and its food. “The name Maiz, which is

the Spanish word for corn, is the foundation of Mexican cooking,” says the chef. “It was a statement to ground ourselves into doing

something with corn and to show that it’s not just a tortilla for tacos, but that there are different preparations embedded in our culture.” The success of Maiz Street Food has proven to be a worthwhile

endeavour for Lopez, and he believes challenges are inevitable,

especially during a global pandemic. “Pre-COVID-19 times, there

were a lot of backpackers filling the hospitality industry, everyone was just coming and going and nobody really cared,” he says.

“You were just there to do the job and I feel like the pandemic has helped shift the perception of business; hospitality operators [are

Permaculture was embraced in Australia to stabilise the

There are more than 21,000

agricultural systems in

regional varieties of

southern Tasmania

corn in Mexico

now really looking] around at who they have.”

Staffing has been a challenge, but plans were put in place to

ensure Maiz didn’t lose its employees. “We’re very lucky to have

staff from the beginning and we’ve been looking after them now

more than ever,” says Lopez. “Giving them empowerment to create with us and taking them on the creative journey that we’re on as well has made them stay.”

For Lopez, the future of Maiz Street Food will see the

implementation of the practical skills he learned during his travels One of Lopez’s picks at Maiz is

Lopez studied culinary arts

tlacoyos, which are made

and gastronomy in

from corn tortillas

Puebla, Mexico

and studies. His passion for permaculture and extensive knowledge of farming has prompted his search to seek out local producers. The venue currently imports half its produce including a

rare variety of heirloom corn and chillis. “A lot of the produce

is imported because there’s still not much farming going on for

particular products yet,” says Lopez. “But obviously the rest of the vegetables we source through our local supplier.”

“Hardly anyone was actually exploring other types of Mexican food, and that’s where I saw a huge gap in the market.” – Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez

The goal is to champion Australian produce while showcasing

Mexican food and ingredients; a balancing act that has been no easy feat. “Ultimately, that’s my utopia for Maiz; where we can import less and use more of what we grow.”

Lopez has always followed his own path. His experiences as a chef and a farmer have brought him to the point where he is ready to teach others a thing or two about authentic Mexican food and sustainable food practices. Introducing something new to the

market always comes with a level of risk, but for Lopez, it’s just the beginning. ■

30 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Italian pastries

32 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Italian pastries

Out of Italy Italian pastries have deep roots, which means there’s plenty to discover — and savour. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Nikki To for Marta THE WORLD OF Italian pastries is

on your machine is 1.5; you have to work

and everything in between. From cannoli

says Carnevale. “Out of a kilogram of dough,

ricotta-filled, soft, crispy, pistachio-laden and sfogliatelle to maritozzi, there’s a

lot to cover. Local chefs have dedicated themselves to making classic Italian pastries that offer a taste of home.

Hospitality talks to Marta’s Flavio

Carnevale and Mezzapica Cakes’ Frank

Portelli about the most popular pastry-ways, pressure points and the sweet treats they’d like to see make their debut out of Italy. Sfogliatelle is a pastry that deserves

some more attention — especially when compared to something as ubiquitous

the pastry to the point where it’s very thin,” you can make quite a lot because you want thin layers with a lot of space. Once that’s done, you need to roll it.”

The next step sees the dough rolled

out and topped with lard. “It makes the

pastry not stick and creates space between each layer,” says the chef. “Then you start rolling the opposite way, turning and

putting more lard on. Once it’s attached

to the stick, you roll it back without it and it looks like a CD with layers wrapped around each other.”

Shaping the pastry is essential to a

as cannoli. It shouldn’t be slept on,

quality end product and necessitates

Carnevale has done the exact opposite at

dough and places it in his left hand (he’s

and Marta’s Owner–Operator Flavio

his Rushcutters Bay restaurant in Sydney. Carnevale launched a Roman bakery in

response to the 2020 lockdown, offering up a rotating menu of baked goods.

The layered puff pastry that is sfogliatelle

has been one of the most popular items,

plenty of practice. Carnevale cuts the

right-handed) where he pushes it from the centre using his thumb and index finger.

“It’s easy to push because of all the lard,” he says. “You want to start moving it around and form a short cone.”

With the hardest part out of the way,

with Carnevale and his team creating sweet

the filling is the final task before baking.

to Nutella and custard and sour cherry

“You add the ricotta, close it and it

options spanning the traditional ricotta

along with something a little more savoury (prosciutto with herby ricotta).

Carnevale says making sfogliatelle is not

a simple task; in fact, creating the dough

(typically flour, sugar, salt, water and lard)

is the easiest part. The following lamination process can be likened to pasta-making;

specifically, thin pappardelle. “The [setting]

“The small details make a difference such as the type of flour, but maritozzi is an interesting, fun bun to make.” – Flavio Carnevale

Ricotta is the most traditional interior. becomes sfogliatelle,” says Carnevale.

Another option sees choux pastry used

in place of ricotta. “You pipe the base with

choux, close it and bake it; the pastry tries to expand and it becomes longer like a

lobster tail,” says Carnevale. “The choux creates a cavity inside you can fill with

Nutella or something else [after baking].” October 2021 | 33

FEATURE // Italian pastries

Sfogliatelle is one of Marta’s best sellers,

but it’s an in-the-know pastry over at

Leichardt’s Mezzapica Cakes. The Sydney store has been around since 1952 when

it was started by Angelo Mezzapica, who

cut the shape of the cannoli,” says Portelli. “Then you roll them around a steel tube and we fry them in cottonseed oil.” The entire process takes around five hours. Portelli says ricotta is the ultimate

came to Australia from Italy after learning

cannoli filling, but chefs should pay special

decade later, Frank Portelli, Mezzapica’s

“We go through about 150kg of ricotta a

the art of pastry making in Milan. Over a

nephew, made the move to Sydney. “I came to Australia in 1963 as a 14-year-old boy,” says Portelli. “When I turned 15, I started working in this cake shop and have been here ever since.”

Mezzapica takes the classic route with

their sfogliatelle. “We only make them

with ricotta, candied peels and semolina,”

attention to the consistency of the cheese. week, but not all ricotta is suitable to add

sugar to,” he says. “When the sugar melts,

sometimes you get a soft, liquid ricotta, so it’s important it’s well-drained.”

Mezzapica’s cannoli range also includes

chocolate, hazelnut and vanilla, but “ricotta is always number one”, says Portelli.

says Portelli. “Sfogliatelle is from the

Maritozzi is arguably the ‘it’ pastry of

success, but not many people actually

specialty that dates back to the Middle

Neapolitan region where they are a huge know what it is here. It’s not our biggest seller, let’s put it that way. But if I had a cent for every cannoli I’ve made since I

started here, I’d be a multi-millionaire…” Mezzapica’s cannoli has been around for

2021. The brioche cream bun is a Roman Ages. It’s a case study of simplicity: a soft brioche bun filled with cream — that’s it. “They go like hot cakes,” says Carnevale. “We can’t sell enough of them, they disappear every day.”

So why are customers fanning out over

almost 70 years and are made according

maritozzi so much? “People want food

difficult to get right, but it’s a matter of

says Carnevale. “In Italy, there’s been a

to a traditional Sicilian recipe. “It’s not

patience in the rolling and the frying,” says Portelli. “You can’t hurry the process up because they won’t come out as good.” Pastry chefs use 25kg of flour at a

time to make the dough which typically

encompasses sugar, salt, eggs, butter/lard and wine. “You mix the dough first and

then you roll it to a certain thickness and

34 | Hospitality

with soul that relates to their childhood,” massive comeback of things like carbonara and old Roman food in a modern way.

People see a brioche bun with whipped

cream and even if they’ve never tried it,

they know what it is. Everyone is looking for some comfort right now.”

One of Carnevale’s early experiences with

maritozzi came by way of a trade. The chef

“Ricotta is always number one.” – Frank Portelli

FEATURE // Italian pastries

worked at a bakery in Rome and would

There’s much to discover when it comes

with a neighbouring business. The chef’s

Carnevale speak fondly of the offerings

swap rosette and mortadella for maritozzi tenure in Rome gave him plenty of time to gain an understanding of what would go

on to become one of Marta’s most-coveted offerings. “When I opened Marta, I knew

exactly what I was looking for in terms of

texture and flavour,” says Carnevale. “I spoke to my friends in Rome and came up with my own interpretation of the traditional

recipe. The small details make a difference

such as the type of flour, but maritozzi is an interesting, fun bun to make.”

The dough doesn’t include any water,

just milk, resulting in a dough akin to

rubber. “The milk needs to be the right

temperature when it’s added to the dry

to Italian pastries, and both Portelli and in their home countries that are mostly absent or hard to find here. Carnevale

puts it down to translation. “Some things we do in Italy are hard to sell here

because people don’t understand the

flavour or it’s not what they think it will

be,” he says. “We tried a dessert [pesche dolci] a few times; the dough is a cross

between shortcrust pastry and maritozzi and it looks like a peach. It has two

disks, and once it’s baked, it’s soaked in Alkermes [Italian spiced liqueur]. The

middle is stuffed with custard and then it’s dipped in sugar.”

Pesche dolci is no doubt eye-catching,

ingredients; it can’t be too hot otherwise

but local palates are sometimes wary of

too cold, it won’t start the yeast. It’s a very

percentage is. “It’s hard to sell things like

the yeast will die,” says Carnevale. “If it’s stretchy pastry to work; you can shape it

one way, but if you haven’t shaped it hard enough, it will try to retain. It also cooks

quickly. It’s a simple dessert, but the most difficult thing is achieving perfection.”

Besides the bun, there’s just one other

alcohol in desserts, despite how low its

that; some people are scared of it,” says Carnevale. “Maybe they got burned by

some kind of liqueur; Australians aren’t used to it. I’d like to see more pastries using liqueur.”

Portelli references stores in the south

component to maritozzi — the cream.

of Sicily that are dedicated to crafting

smooth mouthfeel, but in Italy, the sugar

windows full of marzipan fruits from

Carnevale adds icing sugar to ensure a

comes pre-infused with vanilla. “You don’t

want any grains,” he says. “Sometimes you can add vanilla beans, but in Italy, you use vanilla sugar.”

marzipan into lifelike produce. “You see apricot to peach and they look real; it’s a

pleasure to watch those windows,” he says. “It makes you think, ‘Why can’t we have them in Australia?’” ■

October 2021 | 35

FEATURE // Mortadella

Made with care Mortadella has long fallen into the lunch meat category, but with the work of innovative chefs and local artisans, it’s jumped out of the box. WORDS Aristine Dobson

MORTADELLA HAS FALLEN in the

ins and outs of mortadella, Palinkas

for too long. Its pale, white-specked

observed a completely different consumer

shadow of its cured-meat counterparts appearance has largely resulted in

customers steering clear, but if you ask a

butcher or a chef, they will say it’s one of

the finest. And the dining public is finally starting to see the light.

Hospitality speaks to Chef, Melissa

Palinkas and Butcher Marcus

Papadopoulo on busting mortadella

myths, the production process and its rising status in kitchens.

Melissa Palinkas is the head chef and

owner of Young George restaurant and Ethos Deli in East Fremantle, Perth.

Mortadella is generally perceived as a

high-fat small good, when in actuality,

it’s the opposite. “There’s no fat content in mortadella; traditionally it’s made

from extremely lean pork,” says Palinkas.

“When we make it, it’s pretty much 85 per cent lean pork and 15 per cent pork fat.”

As a chef that specialises in charcuterie,

attitude. “I went to Tuscany a couple of years ago to do a study of mortadella

across the whole of Bologna,” she says. “You see the Italians and it’s a way of

life for them. If everyone was serving it

[here], people would probably catch on a little bit more.”

Marrickville Butcher Marcus

Papadopoulo has a similar philosophy, and as a butcher, he knows producing premium mortadella starts with

sourcing top-tier meat. He holds the

meat industry accountable for the mass

commercialisation and production of deli

meats in general. “The mortadella market is saturated with poor-quality examples,” he says. “There is mortadella out there that is unbelievable. If you go out and

seek a good-quality example, you eat it

and go, ‘This is a step above other things I’ve had before’.”

Papadopoulo says the emulsification

Palinkas believes serving quality

process is what makes it hard for people

perceptions. Determined to explore the

a mortadella. “Most people presume that

mortadella is key to shifting public

36 | Hospitality

went to its birthplace in Italy, where she

to distinguish the ingredients that are in

Once the protein is locked in, it’s a matter of

people think hot dogs have hooves and snouts

and fat. The ratio is crucial to achieving a

ingredients,” he says. “It’s a classic joke that

in them. People speculate and they make jokes about it, and that’s why things like mortadella

and Frankfurt sausages aren’t appreciated in the charcuterie world as much.”

Sourcing premium proteins is the first step. Palinkas finds pork locally, relying on her

connections to pig farmers in Western Australia. “I’ve got several suppliers; I buy from small

farms and a friend of mine has his own little

farm where he grows pigs,” she says. “I’ve just

working out the right combination of protein balanced end result; too much fat and the

mortadella can become greasy. Too little, and the mixture won’t emulsify properly.

Palinkas begins by breaking down the legs and

shoulders of a pig for mincing. “We dice up the

lean meat and take all the sinew out,” she says.

“We have all our mixing accessories in the freezer because you want everything to be very cold

when you mince. If it’s warm, it’ll just smear, and what you’re looking for is a nice grind.”

Because mortadella is served cold, flavour

started working with a new supplier from the

is important to keep in mind. After mincing,

Linley Valley Pork as well.”

and white pepper along with milk powder, which

south-west of Western Australia and I also use Whole Beast Butchery make mortadella from

a range of proteins including pork, turkey and

even kangaroo. Papadopoulo is passionate about dry ageing and avoids packaged meat. “One of the things we do at our shop that defines us is

only using carcass meat,” he says. “We apply the method of dry ageing, hanging and maturing to everything we do.”

Palinkas adds spices including mace, coriander

acts as a tenderiser. The mixture is then paddled. “Paddling at a very high speed emulsifies the meat,” says the chef. “Basically, it breaks and

smashes the proteins apart and becomes very

smooth. It’s done in a machine that mixes at a high speed at the same time.”

At Whole Beast Butchery, Papadopoulo also

likes to take his time with emulsification. He

“One of the things we do at our shop that defines us is only using carcass meat.” – Marcus Papadopoulo

October 2021 | 37

FEATURE // Mortadella

not only is it bad, but it’s made with poor-quality

FEATURE // Mortadella

“We have all our mixing accessories in the freezer because you want everything to be very cold when you mince.” – Melissa Palinkas opts for a half and half ratio to make his mortadella. “You want

generally around one-third to half,” he says. “We do half lean meat and half pure fat.”

As for seasoning, he prefers to switch up the offering at Whole

Beast based on the style of mortadella. “It can be seasoned a

bunch of different ways whether you want to take it into a sweeter pork angle, which is kind of like a classic French-inspired flavour,

or you could take it into something with more heat,” he says. “But

we try and make it in a very unique way to give it a good all-round flavour.” The mortadella is then steamed and rested.

Papadopoulo makes kangaroo

Ethos Deli sell their mortadella

mortadella for Good Ways

on the lunch charcuterie

Deli in Redfern

menu for $18

The simplicity of mortadella allows for many iterations and styles, and appreciation is often realised when it’s served in a simple

application. “At Young George, we just shave it onto a plate with

pickles,” says Palinkas. “In summer and spring, we buy shishito or padrón peppers and we pickle them and treat them the same way as gunda.”

Papadopoulo says mortadella can be used in a range of dishes

and believes it can be a great alternative to bacon. “It can be sliced Mortadella originates from

Palinkas sources

Bologna, Italy, in the capital

pork from local

Emilia-Romagna

Western Australian farmers

very thin for charcuterie or it can be sliced thicker and fried in a pan or on a barbecue for a sandwich,” he says. “It could also be

diced up and put in something like a potato salad. Where someone uses bacon, they could definitely [swap in] mortadella.”

The public perception of mortadella has certainly shifted with

more restaurants putting it on the menu thanks to producers and chefs creating quality options. Changing a customer’s mind can often come down to a quick education. “If you’ve got a front-

of-house person that can talk [customers] through it, they can explain mortadella a bit better,” says Palinkas.

Any foodstuff made with the right ingredients will result in a

tastier product. And for Papadopoulos, the notion could not be

more relevant for mortadella. “It’s like any other meat or small

goods product; you want to find out who’s making it and if that

artisan is making small-batch products,” says the butcher. “If it’s created by an artisan, it’s a multi-stage process; it should have

good-quality meat in it and the end result should be a reflection of the effort and the quality that’s been put in there.” ■ 38 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Branding 40 | Hospitality

Photography by Kristoffer Paulsen

FEATURE // Branding

Make your mark A cohesive branding strategy informs every part of your business. Here’s what you need to know. WORDS Annabelle Cloros A BRAND IS much more than just a

“It’s a way for customers to experience

logo. It trickles down from the interior

what you’re doing outside of just being at

illustrations, music genre, social media

encapsulate and inform every touchpoint.”

scheme to the plates, menu, tone of voice, presence, merchandise and every micro

the venue,” adds Trutwein. “Branding helps

experience in between. Basically, it’s a

Whether a venue is in the development

can interact with beyond eating and

identifying brand values is a must and is

jigsaw puzzle filled with pieces a customer drinking at a venue.

Hospitality speaks to After Hours Studio

Co-Founders Jasmine Gallagher and Shy Trutwein about the elements that make up a brand’s DNA, the importance of

establishing guidelines and sticking to them and how to create rapport with

customers in an ever-shifting environment. After Hours is a brand and design studio based in Queensland, but their work extends beyond the Sunshine State.

Jasmine Gallagher and Shy Trutwein

have worked on venues including Small

Talk Coffee & Snacks and Shwarmama in Sydney and Way Good in Melbourne, to

phase or has been around for decades,

the starting point for articulating a clear, concise message. “We get to know the

person or the group of people behind the concept and we work out what the story

“Your brand is building your story; your values, what you stand for, your personality and tone of voice — it tells the story online and offline.” – Jasmine Gallagher

champion high-quality produce or provide a localised offering to the neighbourhood; it’s visual, verbal and internal identity.” Ideally, working out a brand’s ethos

should be done in the embryonic phases, which maximises the cohesive potential

and ensures a smooth ride for all parties. “People are becoming more interested in

developing a brand from the ground up,” says Trutwein. “It’s great to work with

other creative minds to form a holistic

narrative; if interiors and branding aren’t speaking to each other, the customer is

confused and doesn’t truly know who you are,” adds Gallagher. “You might have a

subtle interior but punchy, fun branding and they don’t speak to each other.”

Confusion can even flow on to the people

working within the business. “Everyone

has to be on board from the chefs to the floor staff,” says Trutwein. “It’s easier to

understand what you’re doing when all the touchpoints are connecting to each other.”

name a few.

is,” says Trutwein. “It’s about building

One of the easiest ways to stand out from

to know one thing when it comes to

them on how they can communicate it

and that comes down to strategy. In

Gallagher and Trutwein want businesses

branding: there’s a whole world that exists beyond a logo. “Your brand is building

your story; your values, what you stand

out the story and then working with

visually on everything from social media to newsletters, website and merchandise.” And that means ironing out each and

for, your personality and tone of voice —

every consumer experience that relates

Gallagher. “It’s where a venue takes on

identifying your values,” says Gallagher.

it tells the story online and offline,” says a life form and has an own-able identity nobody else has.”

the crowd is to do things a little differently, Survivor, players outwit, outplay, outlast — and the same notion can be applied to the hospitality industry.

In the branding world, the smallest

to your venue. “A big part of branding is

details can set a venue apart via graphics,

“It’s identifying the target market, the

scheme. Take a pasta bar for example;

competitors and the offering. Whether they

illustrations, fonts and a core colour is it traditional or a more modern

October 2021 | 41

FEATURE // Branding Photography by Buffet Digital

interpretation? “We look at all the other venues in the area, and if they’re using dark green, maybe you need to come in with

something like bright yellow, which will translate to the interiors

as well,” says Gallagher. “It’s your colours, fonts, graphic assets, art direction and the photography style that all tell that story further.” Capturing a sense of play is key in After Hours’ approach to

branding, and is present throughout all the creative assets a

business can use in-venue and on digital platforms. In what’s been

a difficult year-plus for businesses and customers, everyone is keen to participate in lighter, fun experiences. “We create illustrations which are like a stamp of identification when venues don’t want to use a logo,” says Trutwein. “We take photos with high flash

and there are a lot of hands and energy, which communicates the mood and the vibe of a venue.”

A peek at Way Good’s Instagram feed sees illustrations of

characters holding forks, spoons or bottles of wine on social tiles, which are also printed on the venue’s packaging. “If you have a

cute illustration or a sticker on your takeaway boxes, people will

post about it and that’s user-generated content; it’s the marketing done for you,” says Trutwein.

Real-time content is another way to communicate with

customers and establish tone of voice. Whether it’s capturing a

chef making a dish in the kitchen or interacting with followers;

both offer a prime opportunity to connect. “It’s having that one-

to-one experience with the customer,” says Trutwein. “If your tone of voice is light-hearted, you might be more vocal on socials and write back to every comment.”

“It’s also being able to see who’s running the venue,” adds

Gallagher. “The consumer has so much spending power and they’re conscious about who they’re supporting.”

Social media platforms are just one communication tool used by venues and customers, but websites and newsletters shouldn’t

be overlooked. “Websites are an integral part of your brand story and allow you to control how your audience interacts with and perceives your brand,” says Gallagher. 42 | Hospitality

“Merchandise has become a thing where people feel like they belong to a club; it’s like wearing your favourite sports jersey, which is really cool.” – Shy Trutwein

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FEATURE // Branding The studio has noticed an uptake in venues

After Hours list Sqirl as a stellar example of branding

opting to use Squarespace as a hosting platform, which is known for its user-friendly nature; a must when it comes to keeping your offering

up to date. “Operators don’t want to come back

guidelines and stick to them

thing, and now they link to menus, which need to be changed frequently.”

especially during periods when they’re not

able to visit a venue in person. “We have also

found more venues are requesting newsletter

without using a logo

44 | Hospitality

walking down the street or on holiday. “Small

Talk’s merchandise went wild,” says Trutwein.

“Someone sent a photo of four people in a café in Byron Bay who didn’t know each other all

wearing Small Talk T-shirts. Merchandise has

become a thing where people feel like they belong to a club; it’s like wearing your favourite sports jersey, which is really cool.”

The COVID-19 period has shown us customers

giving them direct news and it’s a way to be fully

with a story, and branding is integral in

contact you’re not going to get elsewhere. You’re

It’s also a space where operators can go a

way to own content

revenue stream for business owners, but a way

templates,” says Gallagher. “It’s that one-to-one

engaged with your customers.” Illustrations are an effective

Being a part of something extends offline, too.

for customers to show their support when they’re

year ago, we didn’t know QR codes would be a

and establishing rapport with their customers;

communication tool to

venue and to be a part of it.”

that a website needs to be updated internally. A

experiencing the benefits of sending newsletters

connect with customers

to know more about the people behind your

Venue merchandise has become not just another

An increasing number of venues are also

Newsletters are a valuable

Instagram. If a customer is engaged, they want

to a studio to make changes like updating their

menu,” says Gallagher. “COVID-19 has taught us

Set out your brand

“There’s only so much you can communicate on

little deeper and share more than just an on-

paper offering. “You could include recipes for

particular dishes or a playlist to the music chefs are listening to in the kitchen,” says Trutwein.

are receptive to supporting businesses

communicating what a venue is made of.

Whether it’s streamlining social media by posting consistent content to debuting

a newsletter or hosting a live or two on

Instagram, branding guidelines are your bread and butter to making your message stick.

■

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FEATURE // Sour beer

46 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Sour beer

Big sour energy Sours have made leaps and bounds in the world of craft brewing. WORDS Aristine Dobson THE LOCAL BEER market has been dominated

ferment with yeast and bacteria,” says Karlie

beers are fast making their way into kegs and

The Grifter Brewing Co. “Or you can have a kettle

by lagers, ales and IPAs for many years, but sour taps around the country. The acidic brew has

been around for centuries in parts of Europe,

but independent breweries are putting their own spin on the style.

Hospitality talks to Sydney brewers Karli

Small, head brewer and production manager at souring process, which is mainly what we do at

Grifter. It’s when you’re using the natural cultures that are in the grain to sour the wort or you’re adding lactobacillus or souring bacteria.”

At Yulli’s, Webb-Smith opts for malted grains

Small, Nick Calder-Scholes and Jamie Webb-

as they naturally hold souring agents. The wort

has so much potential.

liquid and held at 40 degrees Celsius for 48

Smith on the art of making sour beer and why it

The origins of sour beer can be traced back to

Belgium and central Germany, where traditional

methods involved the spontaneous fermentation of wild yeast and bacteria. Head Brewer at

is pre-acidified as the grains are put into the

hours. “With a normal beer, your wort would be about 5.4 pH; we aim to inoculate at 4–4.2,” he says. “The 40 degrees and that 4.2 pH stop any undesirable bacteria growth.”

Calder-Scholes describes modern-day sours

One Drop Brewing Co. Nick Calder-Scholes

as a “controlled infection” due to the presence

unintentionally overlooked. “We were drinking

difference between brewing a sour compared to

says its lingering presence has likely been

sour beer forever probably thinking it was

normal beer,” he says. “The most famous would be Berliner Weisse, which is essentially a sour wheat beer.”

A defining factor of sour beer is its sourness

and sweetness, typically achieved using fruit.

Traditionally, a sweet component such as raspberry or woodruff syrup was added manually while pouring the beer, but some sours simply went

of wild yeasts and bacteria. At One Drop, the

a lager or an IPA is the process of hot side, where the ingredients are mixed and boiled, and cold side, which refers to the process of ageing and

leave it in the vessel we boil it in,” says Calder-

Scholes. “We essentially pitch the infection there, which would damage the entire brewery if it got

out or we let it sit in there for three to four days.” The tartness of sour beer lends itself to myriad

Smith, Head Brewer at Yulli’s Brews. “They were

to work on a signature product. The Dolly

just pure sourness with a bit of barrel character.” In brewing, it all starts with wort, which

is essentially beer before it undergoes the fermentation process. In a sour, it can be

manipulated to create the desired acidity. “You

can either have a wild ferment or a mixed culture

The hop plant

fermentation. “Hot side takes six hours and we

without. “The original sours coming out of Belgium were un-fruited originally,” says Jamie Webb-

“A lot of the craft brewing we’re seeing is following US trends.” – Karli Small

was originally One Drop

used to get rid

has made

of wild yeast

a sour beer

and bacteria

using soursop

in beer

additions that give breweries the opportunity

Aldrin range from Yulli’s sees different fruit and vegetable iterations combined with the same

sour base. “If you added beetroot into a normal

Pink Galah

Webb-Smith

is made using

introduced

beer, you probably wouldn’t get the same effect

100 per cent

his beetroot

Australian

and pineapple

of the sourness, you can cut it with sweetness

lemon juice

home brew

as you would a sour,” says Webb-Smith. “Because and the flavours become more bearable in a sour

to Yulli’s October 2021 | 47

FEATURE // Sour beer

“It’s probably my favourite style to make because I’ve got the chance to do something a little bit weird and wonderful.” – Jamie Webb-Smith beer than a dark beer or an IPA. The fruit comes out a little bit more when you haven’t got so many hops or malt.”

For Calder-Scholes, the flexibility of sour beer is the perfect

vessel to explore seasonality and minimise the brewery’s

environmental footprint. “The industry is very wasteful regardless of what anyone says; we just try to be conscious of that fact and

try to use fruit that is somewhat seasonal and local if we can,” says the brewer.

One Drop’s sour range is vast and fruit-heavy, with little to no

bitterness. “We would’ve released over 50 different sour beers

since we opened two and a half years ago,” says Calder-Scholes. “We had a whole fruit and flower series where we used edible flowers and fruits to balance the acidity.”

A sour can break up a brewery’s offering and add a point of

difference. Pink Galah has been an iconic release for Grifter, which introduced the pink lemonade sour ale to their line up in 2018. The beverage is ideal for the warmer months, with the fizz and

tang heartily embraced by consumers. “For Pink Galah, you get the fruitiness and acidity because we add a lot of fresh raspberries and lemon juice into the fermentation,” says Small.

Pink Galah uses a pure culture of lactobacillus, a souring

bacterium also found in yoghurt. The result is a beer that is drier

on the palate and fruity in flavour without as much sweetness. “It can be considered sharper on the palate compared to other beers because it has a lower body, which makes it a refreshing summer beer,” says Small.

In recent years, sours have steadily made their way into the craft beer scene, and Australia is now playing catch up with major

players. “Before I was at Grifter, I spent five years brewing in the

US to be a part of the craft brewing scene over there,” says Small. “Every brewery had its own sour beer and they were moving

on to other trends. A lot of brewers around here are using the traditional European brewing practices, but a lot of the craft brewing we’re seeing is following US trends.”

Beer enthusiasts are certainly willing to get on board with the

latest and greatest in the sector. “We’re finding the population is really into trying new things and it’s changing how Australians think of beer,” says Small.

Brewers are reaping the rewards of the mouth-puckering style,

too. “As a brewer, I love making sours,” says Webb-Smith. “It’s

probably my favourite style to make because I’ve got the chance to do something a little bit weird and wonderful.” ■ 48 | Hospitality

www.yullisbrews.com.au

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BEHIND THE SCENES // Darvella Pâtisserie

Darvella Pâtisserie’s

strawberries and cream croissant An Ekka-inspired treat that celebrates Queensland’s finest producers.

HEAD PASTRY CHEF Lindsay Krahenbring created Darvella Pâtisserie’s strawberry sundae croissant in homage to the Ekka. While the event was called off this year, Darvella marked the occasion with a special menu item. The team use their regular semi-sourdough croissant dough with the addition of strawberries. The croissants are created over a three-day process, which sees the dough made and rested overnight before being laminated, rested overnight again and then proved and baked. “The fillings are also done a day prior so they have time to set,” says Krahenbring. Rather than the regular croissant shape, the Ekka edition is rolled into a cone. Krahenbring pokes a hole in the bottom of the croissant and places it in a cup before piping in a vanilla custard and strawberry filling. Finally, a Chantilly cream rosette is piped on top before the treat is finished off with strawberry pieces. Scan the QR code to watch the masterclass brought to you by Cookers

52 | Hospitality

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Damien Monley

Damien Monley Roxy’s was just about to open in Sydney’s Double Bay until lockdown changed everything.

ROXY’S HAS BEEN in planning for

pita alongside bottled cocktails by

that transcends breakfast through to late

introduced date-night dinner packs,

around 12 months. It’s an all-day venue evening. It’s quality without pretension

and has a real community focus; a small

bar serving exciting yet approachable food and drinks.

The idea originally came about when

Charles Mellick (Fortis) contacted me when I was executive chef and co-owner of Liv

our Bar Manager Rhys Budd. We also which gathered a loyal following very

quickly. Being able to briefly welcome our takeaway customers has been so valuable in establishing relationships and is very

important for when we can actually open the doors and host our guests.

We exceeded our expectations of

Restaurant in Belgravia, London. I came

keeping our full-timers employed and

sold as soon as I saw the Double Bay site

timers so they all get some hours and we

home to Sydney in March 2020 and I was and the brief for the wider Pallas House

development. I’ve always had an affinity for small and intimate restaurant spaces.

When COVID-19 cases started to rise, it

was a double-edged sword; I felt for all of

my amazing staff. I was also slightly relieved

paying the wages. We rotate our part-

stay in contact through phone calls and group messages. We are super lucky to have a very supportive team at

and lots of herbs. We’ll be playing around

of the situation.

spice and personality to familiar local

Roxy’s and everybody is understanding We want to be an everyday venue and we

we had a bit more time as restaurant

understand sometimes you want to eat and

Like everyone, I hoped the lockdown would

splurge. Therefore, we’ll balance comfort

openings are always notoriously last minute. only be for a couple of weeks.

We pivoted and got on the front foot

early by introducing Roxy’s Market

Day where we sell baked goods and 54 | Hospitality

We’ll be playing around with Middle Eastern flavours, adding spice and personality to familiar local ingredients and putting twists on classics.

drink light, while other times you want to and clean with boozy and behaved.

I’ll be cooking the way I like to eat

at home; having fun with flavours and

utilising punchy spices, house-made pickles

with Middle Eastern flavours, adding

ingredients and putting twists on classics. Think fresh, healthy and vibrant salads, grains, house-made dips, sharp pickles

and snacks you can eat with your hands.

Whether it’s a milkshake with your kids on

the way to school, an afternoon spritz with some snacks or an epic dinner and latenight session, we’ll have you covered. ■

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Trusted & local Making it happen

Contact your local distributor to order Sunbeam, or talk to your local Peerless Foods account manager to discuss your requirements on: 1800 986 499. Also visit us at: www. peerlessfoodservice.com.au or at: / peerlessfoodservice peerlessfoodservice.com.au

Hospitality October 2021

Articles inside

Feature - Sour Beer

Feature - Branding, Make your mark

Feature - Mortadella

Feature - Out of Italy

Profile - Juan Carlos Negrete Lopez

In Focus - Another Piece of the Pie