Hospitality Sept 2016

NO.728 SEPTEMBER 2016

NEW IDEAS. BE INSPIRED. 26 SEPTEMBER 2016

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Editorial

S

eptember is shaping up to be a pretty crazy month for the Hospitality team. We’ll be attending the annual Fine Food show in Melbourne, which is guaranteed to be a hectic four days of meeting and greeting industry members and suppliers, attending exciting events like the Nestle Golden Chef’s Hat competition, presenting on the Talking Food Stage, and indulging in lots of amazing meals in between (we’re coming for you Lee Ho Fook and Supernormal!).

And not even a fortnight later, we’ll host our very first industry event – the Restaurant Leaders Summit – on 26 September, at Doltone House in Sydney.

Bringing this one-day conference to life has been a massive challenge, but what’s made it an absolute joy is the participating chefs’ and restaurateurs’ willingness – no, straight up excitement – to get involved. Not one person has said ‘I’m too busy’ or ‘Maybe next year.’

We’ve got some incredibly accomplished people coming along, and I’ve been amazed at their readiness to not only commit to a whole day out of the office or the kitchen, but to get on stage and do what they can to inspire others and share pointers on business best practice.

So I want to say a massive thank you to everyone that’s coming along: Urban Purveyor Group’s CEO, Thomas Pash; Merivale’s group HR manager Kate Tones and The Coogee Pavilion’s Dee Ryan; nel. Restaurant's owner, Nelly Robinson; Solotel’s food and dining manager, David Stossel; Matt Stone, head chef at Oakridge Winery in Melbourne; restaurateur Lisa van Haandel – also from Melbourne. The list goes on….(head to restaurantleaders.com.au for details).

If the advice and ideas that these guys plan to share on the stage of Restaurant Leaders Summit is anything like their determination to see the industry succeed in the future, the 26th of September is going to be a pretty incredible day.

Danielle Bowling dbowling@intermedia.com.au

4 Hospitality September 2016

September Contents 6 In focus

8 Openings 10 Flavour of the month

8

12 Fast casual 16 Best practice 18 Drinks

42

21 Trends 22 Cover story 28 Sauces 32 Desserts 34 Cocktails

14 20

38 Shelf space 40 Diary 42 5 minutes with…

22

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in focus

A glimpse at pizza’s

profitability

Industry revenue sits at $3.7 billion, with

profits of $269.7 million

There are

4,004 businesses

A new report has examined the strength and profitability of Australia’s pizza industry, arguing that independent operators are well positioned to capitalise on the growing interest in gourmet offerings.

in the sector

I

BISWorld’s Pizza Restaurants and Takeaway in Australia report has found that while pizza shops serving up the ‘traditionals’ like pepperoni and supreme used to account for more than 90 percent of the industry, restaurants have worked to upgrade their image over the past five years, and now more and more consumers are looking for a premium offering.

“While traditional pizza remains the industry’s largest product segment, it has declined as a share of industry revenue over the past five years,” the report reads.

Consumers have displayed a growing interest in healthy food options over the past five years, and according to IBISWorld, this trend isn’t going away.

“Rising health consciousness can dampen demand for traditional fast food, which is generally perceived as unhealthy. Thus, restaurant operators who respond to this perception by offering healthier options and marketing them successfully will tend to fare better,” the report said.

Over the next five years, competition within the industry is expected to intensify, and businesses with high quality, low priced menu items will perform best.

IBISWorld said it’s also important for pizza businesses to differentiate themselves by offering a broad range of pizzas. This is where independent operators have the ability to outshine their franchise counterparts.

“The scale of major franchises will likely slow the rollout of new products. For this reason, single-establishment gourmet restaurants will find themselves better positioned to capitalise on new trends.

“In an increasingly competitive and saturated market, operators that cannot cater to the changing tastes of the Australian consumer are at a disadvantage,” the report reads.

In line with the movement towards premiumisation, the gourmet pizza product segment has grown from being a very minor share of industry revenue five years ago, into an increasingly popular alternative to traditional pizzas.

In 2016-17, traditional pizzas represent 42.7 percent of the products available in the sector, with gourmet and specialty pizzas representing 22.6 percent. Pizza sides account for 18.3 percent, and other products make up 16.4 percent of the sector’s offering.

One of the most significant changes in Australia’s pizza industry over the past five years has been the widespread implementation of online ordering systems.

This has been most prevalent in franchise systems like Domino’s and Pizza Hut, while smaller, independent operators tend to lack the capital to invest in such software.

Despite this, smaller business have benefited from the growing popularity of third party online ordering services like Menulog, Deliveroo and foodora.

“These platforms allow customers to choose a small takeaway store nearby and order online, boosting demand for smaller restaurants in exchange for a cut of the proceeds. This provides smaller operators with access to a convenient online ordering platform and stronger exposure to a wider customer base.” n 6 Hospitality September 2016

Over the 5 years to 2016-17, revenue is

expected to grow by

2.8% annually

traditional pizzas represent 42.7% of the products In 2016-17,

available in the sector, with gourmet and specialty pizzas representing 22.6%. Sides account for 18.3%, and other products make up16.4%.

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Openings Some of the latest venues to swing open their doors in Australia’s foodservice scene.

1

Hacienda

Sydney, NSW The team from Applejack Hospitality has partnered with AccorHotels to launch this new vista bar inside the Pullman Quay Grand Sydney Harbour, where both the food and drinks menu draw inspiration from Cuba.

2

Tequila Mockingbird

Sydney, NSW Located in a restored three-storey terrace just off Paddington’s Five Ways, Tequila Mockingbird celebrates flavours from Mexico through to Argentina, and is co-owned by restaurateur Michael Fegent (ex-Sake) and executive chef Regan Porteous.

3

1 2

Pokéd

Melbourne, VIC Serving the traditional Hawaiian dish, poké, the Pokéd team sources a wide selection of sustainable fish each day and the venue offers both a set menu and build your own options. All sauces are prepared in-house, including the miso matcha dressing, which uses organic powder from Matcha Maiden.

4

Chingón

Brisbane, QLD An established business in Melbourne, Chingón also now resides on Brisbane’s Eagle Lane, offering Mexican street food and a range of cocktails, as well as boutique beers and wines, and premium tequila and mezcals served with either sangrita or verdita.

3 4

8 Hospitality September 2016

5

5

Eleven Bridge

Sydney, NSW Menu items at Neil Perry’s new a la carte concept, led by chef Phil Wood, include hand-rolled strozzapreti with Moreton Bay bug and crustacean butter; chestnut and Jerusalem artichoke pie with barigoule sauce; and snapper ‘fish and chips’ with tartar hollandaise sauce.

6

6

Meat & Wine Co

Melbourne, VIC The latest opening from the Seagrass Boutique Hospitality Group, the fifth The Meat & Wine Co is located in South Yarra’s Como Centre. The dining experience centres around the restaurant’s exclusive Monte Beef brand, and the meat is sourced solely from premium breeders of primarily Angus cattle.

7

The George

Brisbane, QLD Restaurateurs Erica and George Gregan have opened their restaurant on Brisbane’s newest retail high street, King Street. The duo are operating both a bar and all day dining bistro, The George, as well as a separate espresso bar, GG Espresso, under the new Kingsgate commercial building.

8

7 8

Two Bros on Blyth

Melbourne, VIC Following the launch of the Two Bros on Blyth pop-up café last year, brothers Michael and Ehab Botros have returned for good, just off Altona’s Pier Street. The breakfast, lunch and dinner menus feature a mix of Australian fusion dishes such as boozy beetroot and lillet house cured trout; the saucy Korean BBQ wagyu burger and a whole braised lamb shoulder.

September 2016 Hospitality 9

Flavour of the month

BLOOD ORANGES SOURCING Originating from Sicily, Australian blood oranges are in season from late July through to November. They are grown around Australia, however in many places, due to climate, they do not develop the distinctive red colour inside. Warm days and cool nights are required for this unique pigmentation to develop, which reduces the range of premium growing areas to a narrow band of South Australia, Victoria and NSW. One region that excels in the production of heavily pigmented blood oranges is the Riverina of NSW, especially Griffith and Leeton which have almost the exact same climate as Catania in Sicily.

Relatively new to the Australian fruit scene, blood oranges are packed full of vitamins and are the only citrus fruit to contain anthocyanins, which gives them their striking red colouring.

WHAT’S THE APPEAL? Apart from looking and tasting great, blood oranges are a powerful antioxidant, and have been proven to help prevent fat accumulation, sunspots and damage to the skin caused

by UV exposure. There have also been studies that suggest they reduce damage to the body caused by smoking and air pollution.

FLAVOUR MATCHES Blood oranges have a tangy citrus flavour with distinct raspberry notes. They work well with many flavours in both sweet and savoury dishes including: • Chocolate • Vanilla • Cinnamon • Ginger and stronger spices such as anise, cloves, chilli and various peppers.

TASTY APPLICATIONS Early season blood oranges are quite tart, which makes them perfect for use in savoury dishes, in combination with fish, poultry and pork. The red flesh and juice of the fruit offers a unique freshness that cuts right through heavy flavours and brings a hint of sweetness. Early season blood oranges can also be used where lemons and limes are called for, like in cocktails and curds, but where a more delicate and nuanced flavour is desired.

Towards the middle and end of the season the tartness ebbs away allowing the raspberry notes to shine through, making blood oranges ideal for delicate desserts, jams, preserves and jellies.

STORAGE Blood oranges are best stored in the refrigerator and will last for up to two months if kept in the crisper. A bonus to long term storage in the fridge is that due to prolonged exposure to the cold they will actually develop a more intense internal colour. Pop them in the fridge in November for use in Christmas ham glazes and cocktails.

LOOK OUT FOR Smaller sized fruit, particularly early in the season, are more likely to be evenly pigmented and are best when a strong, striking colour is required for plating. Larger fruit can often have an opal like contrast of colours ranging between orange and deep crimson and are best used whole or in segments.

Also, external colour or blush is not a good indicator of internal colour. The best predictor of good internal colour is the region the blood oranges are grown in.

10 Hospitality September 2016

Credit: Redbelly Citrus, redbellycitrus.com.au

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fast casual

Mexican with a mission Zambrero founder, Dr Sam Prince, has combined a successful business strategy with humanitarian goals to build a fast casual franchise that provides meals for those in need while influencing Australian’s eating out habits.

Quality, fresh ingredients are the key to a successful Mexican offering

“M

y mother came from a poor Sri Lankan community, but against all odds, and with extremely limited finances, she became a successful university graduate. I grew up trying to absorb my mother’s commitment to education and helping those less fortunate than herself,” Dr Sam Prince, founder of Zambrero, told Hospitality.

“With a medical background as a doctor I am particularly passionate about the health sector, both in the developed and developing world. Tackling world hunger and access to quality education underline my business philosophy and goals: to provide infrastructure and opportunities to disadvantaged people across the globe and to empower them through good health and quality education.

“I had previously done some work in the developing world though my ‘E-magine’ foundation, which provided IT facilities to schools.

However, it became quite clear that whilst education was suffering in these countries, children were suffering more from malnutrition, preventing them from taking advantage of an education.”

The idea for Zambrero was born from this realisation, with Prince deciding to fight food insecurity with food itself.

“I started Zambrero when I was 21 and studying medicine. We opened the first restaurant in 2005 in Canberra and it was my way of combining entrepreneurship with my humanitarian goals,” he said.

“Through the Plate4Plate initiative, for every burrito or bowl purchased at Zambrero, a meal is donated to someone in need in the developing world via our distribution partner Stop Hunger Now. Stop Hunger Now packs and distributes 12 Hospitality September 2016

At a glance Name: Zambrero When was the business established?

2005 Number of locations? More than 120 stores in Australia with another 13 internationally in Thailand, New Zealand and most recently Ireland.

Number of staff members?

Approximately 2,000 Most valuable asset in the business? Our people. Every member of the Zambrero family and network is vital in creating healthy and delicious quick serve Mexican food whilst tackling world hunger.

Plans for 2016? Continued expansion in Australia, opening one restaurant a week in 2016 which will give us a total of 150 by the end of the year. Our annual Plate 4 Plate meal packaging event day is coming up on 21 October.

food to countries where many do not have access to adequate nutrition, primarily through school feeding programs. As of the first week of August we’ve donated over 9.5 million meals.”

THE RIGHT MODEL Although Plate4Plate tackles malnutrition in the developing world, Prince was equally concerned by the lack of quick, healthy options available to Australians.

“With so many Australians visiting fast food

chains I thought it was important to offer a healthy alternative. The quick service sector offers the biggest opportunity to influence people’s attitude to food and regular eating out habits,” he said.

The quick service sector also provided the best platform to combine entrepreneurship with humanitarian goals.

“It’s a dynamic environment that allows for rapid expansion, which is vital to the success of my mission to serve fresh healthy Mexican food and help beat world hunger,” said Prince.

This natural dynamism is only strengthened when combined with a franchise model.

“A franchise model gives you the ability to expand and deliver an offering that works for each region and location by working with a greater number of individuals, who are heavily invested in the success of their particular franchise.

“There are some challenges with messaging and getting through to all team members but these can be solved and prevented with the right business strategy, team and management. Choosing the right franchisees, who fit with the company’s values, and the right executive team to provide the leadership and commitment is essential.

“We partner with Development Agents across Australia who act locally within the communities to source top quality franchise partners and locations for our restaurants. This way the brand can provide franchisees with a great support system from the very beginning of their journey and then continue to provide ongoing local support for their businesses,” said Prince.”

“We work with our franchisees as partners rather than employing a hierarchal structure

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fast casual

The Plate4Plate initiative provides meals for people in the developing world.

Zambrero founder, Dr Sam Prince

and we encourage owners to inject their local community knowledge into the business.”

FRESH MEX Besides the more general challenge of operating in the competitive fast casual space, offering Mexican presents specific challenges of its own.

“The quality and freshness of ingredients required to make authentic, healthy and delicious Mexican food needs to be superb, because the dishes leave very little room to hide,” Prince said.

“This means the investment in the raw ingredients tends to be higher and preparation time often outweighs that of your average quick service restaurant. At Zambrero we hand make our guacamole fresh on-site every day and slow cook our meats, sourced 14 Hospitality September 2016

from Australian quality producers, for up to 18 hours with carefully selected herbs, spices and chillies to extract maximum flavour and tenderness.”

But the time and effort is worth it.

“Mexican cuisine has a lot of potential to pack in the flavour and offer something very different from the average fast food offering.

We’re able to provide a variety of healthy and flavourful dishes, while catering to a range of dietary needs.

“Catering to dietary needs should no longer be an afterthought or add on, it should be a part of the menu. All of our menu items can be made vegan or vegetarian and adapted to suit a range of dietary needs," Prince said.

It’s no longer just about dietary requirements for a small percentage of the population. Health trends have evolved considerably in the decade since the first Zambrero opened.

“We have seen a lot of trends with superfoods and customers wanting to maximise nutrition. Our healthy IQ range and powerbowl are particularly popular as they are packed full of flavour and nutrition.”

The increasing interest in health food trends hasn’t been to the detriment of old school options.

“Our classic range continues to be our best seller,” Prince said.

MORE THAN A MONEY MAKING MACHINE Prince believes that building social responsibility into the core of a business will benefit the bottom line.

“With corporate social responsibility as a core part of the business, rather than just an ‘add-on’ we attract a certain type of franchisee, who already has a firm understanding and commitment to corporate social responsibility. This has definitely helped increase our staff retention, as team members don’t just want a temporary role in fighting world hunger, they see what we do and want to become part of the long term solution.

“Our objective is to end world hunger and to do this we need to attract as many customers as possible, and sell as many burritos or bowls. This correlates with our ability to generate profit. Whilst it is no easy feat, being transparent, accountable and highly structured gives us the foundation to simultaneously generate profit and beat world hunger."

It’s a model that Prince would like to see more Australian quick service restaurants adopt.

“There is no one-size-fits-all way of doing this type of ‘one for one’ humanitarian practice, so I believe it can be adapted to suit a range of businesses. That being said, a business with multiple outlets across Australia has a greater natural ability to effect change as there is more opportunity to engage local communities to join the cause,” he said.

“While Zambrero was the first restaurant in Australia to offer this type of initiative, we’re not protective with the concept. Zambrero has proven a business and humanitarian marriage can be a successful, profitable and long lasting one. QSR restaurants have the resources and power to make a real difference.” n

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best practice

6 ways to get China-ready With Chinese tourists spending billions in Australia, every restaurant and cafe should be thinking about how they can take advantage of resources like the China Ready Program, writes Ken Burgin.

T

he numbers are amazing – more than 1 million Chinese tourists visited Australia in the past 12 months, and the numbers are growing rapidly. Last year, Chinese visitors spent more than $8.3 billion here, and when making travel plans, a huge 45 percent of their focus is on the food and wine experience. Even better for restaurants and cafes, more than 30 percent are independent travellers in their late 20s and early 30s. They want a high quality tourist experience with an authentic taste of Australian culture and food.

The China Ready program developed by Tourism Australia and Restaurant & Catering Australia is a great resource for tapping into this market, and offers staff training, directory listings and accreditation.

Instagram, and respond to questions. If you don’t have a Chinese speaker on staff, don’t panic – many young Chinese speak enough English to understand your answers, and photos of the desserts don’t need too much explanation.

1. REACH POTENTIAL CUSTOMERS

QR codes are used for connecting through WeChat – have your WeChat code on the menu and website so people can link up effortlessly. Link to the pages on your website that matter most – this could be a page in Chinese that has information about opening times, menu and directions. Google Translate has a widget that can provide translation directly on your website – this will be appreciated by tourists from many countries.

Many tourists want to use public transport, so share maps and information about bus and train access. Make sure staff can do a quick napkin drawing to direct people to the bank, the train or another tourist site.

If you have staff who speak Mandarin, make use of them! We now have a large population with Chinese language skills. Set up a presence on WeChat – the Chinese social media channel that’s a cross between Facebook, Instagram, and blogging, with e-commerce thrown in. Facebook, Instagram and Google are not available in mainland China.

Use WeChat to post regular photos and deals. Set up several Chinese staff as social media ambassadors, and give them guidance on appropriate posting, etiquette and security. Post once a day, just like you do on 16 Hospitality September 2016

2. TRANSLATION You can rely on staff who speak Mandarin, but some menu translations will make it easier for everyone – the China Ready program provides stickers with the Chinese words for “beef”, “chicken”, “seafood” and “vegetarian”. Or use a site like Fiverr.com to have basic words and welcome terms translated, then save them as graphics to use again.

3. WEBSITES, QR CODES AND DIRECTIONS

4. ACCEPTING PAYMENT UnionPay is how Chinese visitors want to pay for services. The bank charges are comparable to Australian fees, and many local ATMs have the UnionPay symbol. There are more UnionPay cards on issue in China than there are Mastercards or Visas worldwide, so it’s very important to have this option – talk to your bank.

5. ENCOURAGE PHOTOS It’s universal – many people won’t eat until their plate has been photographed. All the better if you want tourists to show your food to their 500 WeChat friends, and chefs everywhere are making food more photogenic. Chinese people appreciate the skill of food preparation and quality, so let’s help them celebrate.

6. TABLESIDE AND TIPPING ETIQUETTE Australians are known for their friendliness, so make sure tourists are welcomed and treated as warmly and respectfully as the locals are. Ensure you coach your staff on how to speak slowly and clearly – you'd be surprised how few think to do this. As for tipping, Chinese customers expect to have a service charge applied to their bill – you may want to give guidance in the Chinese section of your menu. n Ken Burgin is owner of Profitable Hospitality, profitablehospitality.com

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drinks

Splendour in the glass As Australians’ appreciation of wine has improved, so too have the wine by the glass lists on offer around the country. By Danielle Bowling.

“T

he two most important things to me when it comes to wine are the place that it came from and the people who made it,” said James Hird, group wine director at Sydney’s Icebergs Dining Room and Bar and Da Orazio Pizza + Porchetta, as well as recently reopened The Dolphin in Surry Hills.

The Dolphin boasts a dining room and a public bar with an open air terrace, as well as The Wine Room, which recently claimed the Hottest Wine Program title in The Weekend Australian’s annual Hot 50 Restaurant Awards.

The wine by the glass offering at The Wine Room comprises about 30 different drops, and the list is categorised by producer and region rather than varietal.

“Front of mind is not pouring one Sav Blanc, one Chardonnay and one Pinot Noir – it’s more about making an exciting 25 to 30 wines available to people who walk in, and to tell a bit of a story rather than just have a $10 glass of wine on offer.

“We change our by the glass listing pretty much every week. One producer will drop off, and we’ll pick up someone else. We tend to work with smaller producers who have less product, so we don’t necessarily want to put it on for the month and forget about it. We want to really explore their patch of earth. For instance, we just had a producer on by the glass called Clemens Busch, who is from Mosel in Germany. So we poured five of his Rieslings. It was pretty interesting because there are three slates in Mosel: red, blue and grey, and it was nice to be able to 18 Hospitality September 2016

sit down and taste those soils side by side,” Hird said.

Australians are far more interested in by the glass offerings than they have been in previous years, and according to Hird, this is because consumers are more thoughtful about what and how they’re drinking.

“People are wiser in regards to how they drink,” he said. “After they share a bottle, they're thinking about having a glass rather than a second or third bottle.”

And while extensive wine by the glass lists have previously been reserved for restaurants, Hird said pubs are upping the ante, responding to Australians’ growing appreciation for venues that have both a relaxed ambience and a high quality food and beverage offering.

“Pubs used to be about drinking for a few hours and then eating something before you leave, whereas now I think we are consciously having a glass of wine and thinking about a dish that would go well with it.”

COMMUNICATION IS KEY Rule number one when it comes to curating a popular and profitable wine by the glass menu is communication between staff members.

While The Dolphin’s dining room has a 120-strong team, The Wine Room has just four.

“It’s a small team, and everyone’s aware of what’s being opened, what needs to be pushed, and when something was opened. If one of us opens a bottle of Chablis that’s not on the by the glass list, everyone

Tapping into a thirst for variety With a strong Italian focus, Vaporetto Bar & Eatery’s wine by the glass offering represents a significant proportion of its bar sales, said coowner Stephanie Edgerton.

Vaporetto offers about five whites, five reds and three sparklings by the glass – all imported from Italy, or produced here in Australia from Italian grapes. And then there’s the TAP. Wines system, which was installed at the Hawthorn restaurant when it launched in February this year. goes ‘OK, we’ve got the Chablis open, it’s a great chance for people to taste it … For me, it’s about communication and having staff who care about and understand wine.”

The same goes for producers, Hird said. There’s a lot to gain from staying in regular contact with those making the wine you’re pouring.

“Try as much as possible to talk to producers about every element of their wine. For example, what temperature they’d like their wine [served] at. For instance, Tom Shobbrook’s red wine [Barossa Valley] might be best at 15 degrees, and his white at 10. It’s nice to have as much direct contact with the person who made it, to understand how it fits into the by the glass or the wine program in general.”

MINIMISING WASTE Of course the easiest way to ensure you’re not throwing out dozens of half empty bottles each week is to be busy, but the next best thing is to know your wine selection very well, to continuously try new drops and regularly re-evaluate your offering.

All of the wines at The Wine Room are refrigerated: reds at 15 and 13 degrees, and whites at 10 and six. This gives them a slightly longer shelf life once open, but the best way to avoid wastage is to be aware of what’s open and understand the characteristics of that wine.

Hird makes a point of trying between 20 to 30 new wines a day – or 100 to 200 each week – and this is the best way for him to gauge a drop’s suitability for the by the glass list.

The wine on tap system currently offers three varietals: sangiovese, rose and pinot grigio, with prosecco being added on in the near future.

“Not only is it convenient having wine on tap, there’s no wastage, it stays fresh and the quality is amazing and consistent. It’s also a really good price for customers; having wine at $10 a glass means it’s affordable, but it’s still a really good quality wine,” Edgerton said.

TAP. Wines imports wine in kegs and installs the system in restaurants and bars around Victoria.

As well as eliminating wastage, the taps represent an opportunity for staff to engage with customers and run them through the wine offering, Edgerton said.

“We’ve had such a great response from people; we’re always having a good chat about it. The system is a really good talking point, and the taps themselves are really eye catching.”

It also makes it much easier for patrons to taste wines before ordering.

“It’s a good entry point for people who want to try new grape varietals.

You can tell them all about it, but until they try it themselves, they’re not going to know if they like it,” she said.

“And we can do one litre carafes as well. You usually can’t order one litre of wine in a bottle, so to be able to order a couple of litres of wine – especially for big groups that are sharing – is really good.”

September 2016 Hospitality 19

drinks

Solotel's Opera Bar

Don’t waste a drop As one of the country’s leading hospitality groups, it comes as no surprise that Solotel offers an extensive wine by the glass offering at its 30-odd venues, which include Aria Sydney and Brisbane, Opera Bar, The Clock Hotel, The Sheaf, The Albion Hotel, The Courthouse Hotel and Chiswick.

Matt Dunne, group sommelier, oversees the group’s wine program and said the extent of each venue’s by the glass offering depends on its style, the demographic of its customer base and its location.

Dunne agrees with James Hird from The Wine Room that the best way to ensure wine doesn’t go to waste is to ensure staff are communicating effectively and know the best ways to encourage sales of particular drops – namely those that are already open.

However, the group employs a number of other strategies to extend the life of their wines. These include: Coravin “For super premium wines, Coravin has been a revelation in that it means we’re able to showcase iconic and cult wines to customers, with zero waste.”

The Coravin works by inserting a thin, hollow needle through the cork, then pressurising the bottle with argon. Wine then flows through the needle, into the glass. After the wine is poured, the needle is removed and the cork reseals itself.

This device is used at Aria Sydney and Aria Brisbane, as well as at both Chiswick and Chiswick at The Gallery.

Vinofresh Vinofresh uses a jet to coat an open bottle of wine with a mixture of nitrogen and carbon dioxide, increasing the life of the wine by two to three weeks.

The device is used at Solotel venues that go through good amounts of sparkling wine, Champagne and still wine, and has been particularly effective at the group’s Theatre Bars at the Sydney Opera House.

“We find it easy to use and effective, especially for pouring premium Champagne by the glass,” Dunne said.

Vacuum pumps At certain Solotel pubs, where the wines on offer are more affordable that at the group’s premium dining venues, vacuum pumping devices are used after each service to extend the life of open bottles by a day or so.

The pumps work by extracting the air from a bottle and resealing it with a rubber stopper. The stopper is placed in the bottle and air is pumped out, slowing the oxidation process and therefore the life of the wine.

20 Hospitality September 2016

The Wine Room

“You know from the structure of some wines that they’re not going to last. If it’s got lots of tannins or lots of structure then it’s probably going to hold a little bit longer than something that’s a bit softer and floral. It’s trial and error, definitely. But then there are surprises; some wines you open and it’s like they’re never going to die. They just keep going.

“Not all wines can be opened and done by the glass, I don’t think.

Some orange wines or wines without many preservatives fall over pretty quickly, and you quickly realise not to pour those … but even wines that have been filtered and treated et cetera, can fall over. But then some orange wines from producers like Dario Princic – you could open one and four days later it’s still perfect. It’s just about knowing the wine and how it will react once it’s exposed to air.”

Hird is bucking the trend at The Wine Room by not using any vacuum sealing equipment to extend the life of a bottle once opened. The aim of The Wine Room's by the glass menu is to shine a spotlight on wines that are at their best at a certain point in time, and Hird feels that using such devices would detract from the venue’s philosophy.

“It’s all about choosing the wine carefully and spending a lot of time training staff about the wine, and putting the lid back on or the cork back in. We don’t use Coravin and we don’t use any vac-sealing systems because I really like the idea of being connected to the product. Once it’s open, it’s open for that moment in time and you’ve got to find someone to drink it. That’s worked really well; we’re not wasting any wine.” n

Trends

Bone marrow

Nose-to-tail cooking has always been more of a movement than a trend, but different off-cuts seem to come in and out of vogue. At the moment, it's all about bone marrow.

Café del Mar rib eye steak with bone marrow

“B

one marrow is definitely offal. It makes a good starter for someone who is beginning to eat offal – it’s less confronting in terms of flavour and texture,” said Colin Fassnidge, co-owner of 4Fourteen in Sydney's Surry Hills.

While the term 'offal' might bring to mind liver, kidney, tripe and brains, nose-to-tail proponents have long recognised the virtues of marrow, with diners now following suit.

While many consumers might shy away from the guts of the movement, Fassnidge is not alone in thinking bone marrow presents an opportunity to bring apprehensive diners into the fold.

Rory Donnelly, head chef at Cafe del Mar, said the nose-to-tail movement has created more awareness around bone marrow and its applications. This, in turn, has made diners more adventurous with their food choices.

“I personally think that it's less of a trend and more of a global movement instigated by chefs and suppliers who decided to promote and educate the broader public on the matters of sustainability and ethical practices. One way we can do this is by showing people that all parts of an animal can be utilised and turned into something special,” Donnelly told Hospitality.

So what attributes specifically give bone marrow the edge over other offal? It’s versatility, for one.

“Bone marrow is extremely versatile,” said Donnelly. “It can be sous vide or roasted, it can be crumbed or fried, and it can rendered down and used as an oil or turned into a

butter substitute. It also pairs well with most cured and cooked meats, or even crab and other crustaceans.”

At Cafe del Mar, split bone marrow served alongside rib eye steak is one of the go-to dishes for diners. Introduced as part of the winter menu, Donnelly said the marrow bone adds more complexity to the flavour profile, as well as providing a strong visual impact.

“The dish is basically charred steak with roasted bone marrow. The marrow itself is mixed with horseradish,” he said.

“The bone marrow comes as a three inch long cut piece. We start by soaking the marrow bones for six to 12 hours, changing the water three to four times. We then scrape out the marrow from the centre of the bones and reserve it. The bones get boiled to clean them and remove any remaining tissue.

“The marrow is mixed with fresh horseradish, parsley and pangritata then stuffed back into the bones, which we then roast for 10 minutes.”

Fassnidge, a well-known champion of noseto-tail cooking, told Hospitality there's nothing he hasn’t tried to do with bone marrow. One of his most popular creations, however, made use of the crab and marrow pairing.

“A big seller was the bone marrow with freshly cooked crab and a sorrel mayonnaise.

That was a really nice dish. It was when we had the Four in Hand, so it was very, you know, two hat. We used to serve it with the sorrel leaves,” he said.

“So you had the crab meat, which is a bit sweet, then the sorrel leaves are really acidic – you need that acidity to cut through the fat

of the marrow – and the idea was that you scoop the bone marrow and the crab up with the leaves and mayonnaise and have it like a san choy bau almost.”

Some of the best uses of bone marrow don’t require complicated processes.

“It’s probably one of the easier things to get away with mistakes, compared to other offal.

You have to be careful with the presentation, because it can get a little bit dark if you leave the blood in it,” said Fassnidge.

“We get them in halved, then soak them in water with maybe a little bit of salt – sometimes that draws out the impurities in the marrow, like the blood, so you get a beautiful white marrow when you cook it. It gives you a better product.

“Then get some bread; make sure you have lemon and salt. That’s it. Lemon cuts through the fat and salt brings out the flavour. You need the acid – a splash of a good vinegar on the top works too.”

Keeping in mind that bone marrow is part of the broader nose-to-tail movement is also important, said Fassnidge.

“Nose-to-tail is really about no waste, just keep using everything. For example, when you're roasting the bones, keep a tray underneath to catch any drippings. Then you can do duck fat potatoes, but with bone marrow or we used to fry bread in them.

“The only problem now is the price. Offal is meant to be a cheap cut of meat, but marrow is nine dollars a bone now, so I would need to sell a dish at $15. You could say that it’s too trendy at the moment.” n September 2016 Hospitality 21

Munich Brauhaus.

Credit: Nicole England

profile

Urban planning CEO of Urban Purveyor Group, Thomas Pash lets Danielle Bowling in on his plan to create Australia’s first billion dollar dining business.

W

ith brands including Bavarian Bier Café, Sake Restaurant and Bar, Munich Brauhaus, Fratelli Fresh and The Cut, Urban Purveyor Group (UPG) has grown to become one of the country’s largest hospitality groups since its inception in 1976. Its growth has accelerated rapidly over the past 18 months or so, following the appointment of CEO Thomas Pash, and the company’s acquisition by private equity firm, Quadrant.

Today, UPG has over 2,000 employees and boasts revenues in excess of $200 million.

“When I started with the company, what I liked was that there were several amazing brands that I thought could be grown throughout the entire country, from city to city and state to state. So we went on the road to pitch it to private equity investors, because John Szangolies (UPG’s founder) was looking to get out, and there was a lot of interest in the ability to take this platform and build Australia’s first large scale casual dining group,” Pash told Hospitality.

“We did a five year plan when Quadrant acquired us, and we want to be the first ever billion dollar dining group in Australia, and to really focus on having some of the best dining brands, in whatever category they operate in.”

INVESTING IN QUALITY CASUAL When the company was acquired in November last year it comprised 19 venues, and it now has over 30, with the expansion plans only ramping up over the next few years.

A significant amount of investment will be placed in the premium casual and fast casual sectors, which Pash feels currently represent the biggest opportunities in Australia’s foodservice industry.

Certain UPG brands operating in this space, he said, have the potential to boast up to 100 sites in five years’ time. This includes Sake Jr – the more casual, on-the-go sibling to Japanese restaurant brand Sake, – where customers design their own noodle- or rice-based meals by se22 Hospitality September 2016

lecting from a range of proteins, vegetables, sauces, toppings and garnishes.

There’s also Fratelli Famous Pizzeria, which was launched after UPG’s acquisition of popular Italian restaurant brand, Fratelli Fresh, in April. Like Sake Jr, Fratelli Famous Pizzeria is based on customisation, giving diners the choice between two sizes of pizza and three hand-stretched doughs, over 30 toppings, six different cheeses, more than 12 different proteins and a range of sauces.

Pash’s enthusiasm for the fast casual space is driven by the segment’s enormity in the States, where he’s previously led a number of private equity and venture capital funded start-ups.

“Looking at the Australian market, it typically lags Thomas Pash. behind the US and the European casual dining sector by a couple of years, so we can really look and see what the top concepts in the US and Europe are and say ‘OK this is probably where foodservice is going in Australia’, and so we really like casual, for a lot of reasons,” he said.

“Globally, we’re seeing a decline in fast food because people are getting a little smarter and a little more educated about what they’re putting in their bodies; they expect a better meal and better ingredients.

You’re seeing a lot of that sector declining. And then with fine dining and white tablecloths, you’re also seeing that sector slowing down a little bit. But if you look at fast casual or full service casual, you’re seeing those markets continually grow, typically by three to five percent year over year, and we like that growth.”

Pash is pretty relaxed about the definition of fast casual, listing home delivery, a shopping or dining precinct location and/or restricted floor service as key characteristics.

“It’s just a convenient format where you can get a great meal – a meal that you could almost have in a fine dining restaurant – but you can get it in five minutes, and potentially eat that three or four times a week.

It’s about having the high quality ingredients of a fine dining or premium restaurant, but in a convenient format that fits into your busy lifestyle.”

profile

Apart from being on-trend, the fast casual sector is far simpler and more profitable than the more premium end of the market.

“From your design, to getting it open, it’s much easier. It’s less capital intensive than a full service, sit down restaurant and you can also have highly cross-trained staff … that do front of house and back of house, or that do the counter and the kitchen, so it really reduces your labour and your man hours quite a bit. Also, you don’t have that real dependency on executive chefs; you really don’t need them for these types of concepts.

“There’s just a lot more flexibility in regards to hiring and training and what the skill set of your staff needs to be,” Pash said.

“We want to be the first ever billion dollar dining group in Australia”

UNDERSTANDING YOUR CUSTOMERS Pash has spent the 18 months he’s been living in Australia learning about the challenges, opportunities and nuances of the local foodservice market, and while some things are vastly different here – “It takes twice as long to open a venue than it would in other parts of the world” – there are a few similarities between Australia and the US. One example is the diner’s growing appetite for customisation.

“What’s really popular now is the build-your-own movement, where the customer has the flexibility of being able to build their own pizza, bowl, salad or burger. The customers really like to be able to have a customised experience,” he said. “They are smarter than ever, they’re more educated than ever, they know what they like to taste, and they know what makes them feel good or feel bad, so being able to customise your meal is a big trend right now and it seems like it’s only going to get stronger.”

Already a well-established and extremely popular segment of the American hospitality sector, another observation Pash has made is Australians’ acceptance of chains.

“There haven’t been a lot of chains here before – businesses that are really giving customers a quality experience, and giving them consistency. We’re seeing that customers have responded really well to that here. When I was throwing up some ideas early on, people in the industry were saying ‘Australians don’t like chains; it’s a different culture

Sake at The Rocks.

Credit: Imogen Moss

here’, but we’ve seeing it embraced as we’ve rolled concepts out and as we’ve gotten better at it,” he said.

UPG is using more than just Pash’s familiarity with the US market to bolster its growth. The company invests heavily in technologies that help it to understand the behaviours and preferences of the people that frequent each of the group’s dining brands.

“We know our customers really well. We use partners like Quantium (data analytics) and Deep in Data and we do a lot of competitor analysis. We look at our customer segment pretty closely and we think we’ve got it mapped out pretty well by brand. So we know where the bulk of our customers are coming from for each brand and whether they’re single professionals, a working family, or ‘the boys’. There are about 10 categories that we use to define our customers.

“We know which other restaurants they go to, what other stores they go to, we know where they typically live and typically work, how often they frequent restaurants, we know which gyms they typically work out at, we know when they watch TV, when they’re on the internet.

“We look at end brand and each customer segment individually and really try to get as close to them as possible and know as much about them as we can. It just helps us to make sure we can give them what they want, and it also helps us with our marketing spend, so we can make sure we’re

Sake

UPG milestones MAR 2015: Thomas Pash appointed CEO

NOV 2015:

APR 2016:

Quadrant Private UPG announces it has Equity purchases UPG added Fratelli Fresh to its portfolio

APR 2016:

MAY 2016:

JULY 2016:

AUG 2016:

UPG opens its fifth Sake restaurant at Flinders Lane, Melbourne

Tex Mex restaurant El Camino Cantina opens at The Rocks, Sydney

UPG opens its sixth Fratelli Fresh and second The Cut Steakhouse, at The Alfred in Melbourne

UPG opens its seventh Fratelli Fresh at Westfield Sydney, alongside its first Fratelli Famous and Sake Jr. venues

September 2016 Hospitality 23

Munich Brauhaus.

Credit: Nicole England

profile

spending money where they’re going to see it.”

UPG has a national brand general manager in its ranks but then has a separate marketing team and culinary director for each concept, to help ensure they’re offering an authentic and on-trend experience at each venue.

Surveys sent out to customers thanks to data that’s been pulled from a sophisticated POS system also helps the group to ensure its menus reflect global trends.

“Our POS system is off the shelf, but we’ve customised it quite a bit. We’ve built what we call a data integration layer that sits above all the systems, pulls the data and allows us to slice and dice it.

“Some data comes from our financial system, some comes from our POS system, and some comes from our ResPAK system and it allows us to look at different patterns and trends. I think we’re one of the first in Australia to do that, but it’s something you see a lot in the US market, especially in this sector.”

THE PERFECT STORM The biggest difference between Australia and the States is, of course, population. So is Pash worried about market saturation? Are there too many businesses here, in relation to mouths to feed?

“No,” he said. “If you look at the dining out trend, it continues to go up, especially if you look at per capita here in Australia. It’s going up faster than anywhere in the world, really. People are eating out more, they’re cooking less, plus they have multiple formats now. They’ve got folks like Deliveroo, foodora and UBEReats, which are actually driving quite a bit of business for us … So you’ve got amazing companies out there that are giving customers a very good experience at home, and of course people are just dining out more. If you look at the growth in people dining out in this country, it is outpacing the number of new restaurants that are opening.”

With this in mind, Pash says the stars are aligning for UPG: it has the capital from Quadrant, a hungry, educated customer base and a number of promising brands that show considerable potential for expansion.

“We’re just getting started in growing our brands; some we believe could have more than 100 openings over the next five years.

“Australians by nature have always been a little smarter as far as [appreciation for] quality ingredients goes. They’ll pay for quality, whereas in other parts of the world they won't. There’s a psychological barrier in some markets for what people will pay for quality,” he said.

“We really think the perfect storm is coming together for us. We have some amazing brands and we believe that customers really get what we’re trying to do. We feel it’s coming together at the right time for us, and that we can execute the strategy and achieve what we want to achieve.” n Thomas Pash will be speaking at Hospitality’s Restaurant Leaders Summit on 26 September.

Head to restaurantleaders.com.au for tickets.

24 Hospitality September 2016

Growth targets for 2021 • Fratelli Fresh – approximately 50 sites •B avarian Bier Cafe – approximately 50 sites • Sake – More than 30 sites • El Camino Cantina – 20-30 sites • T he Cut Steakhouse – Approximatley 10 sites.

The concept will expand into Brisbane and possibly also WA and SA • Sake Jr – up to 100 sites • Fratelli Famous Pizzeria – up to 100 sites Sake Hamer Hall El Camino Cantina.

Credit: Kai Leishman

HOSTED BY

RESTAURANT LEADERS SUMMIT IS A NEW EVENT FOR THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY: A ONE-DAY CONFERENCE AND MINI-EXPO FOR LEADING RESTAURANT OPERATORS, CHEFS AND SENIOR MANAGEMENT

THE PROGRAM 9.00–10.00am

REGISTRATION (with tea and coffee)

26TH SEPTEMBER 2016

10.00–10.10am

Welcome and Opening Ken Burgin (MC) and Danielle Bowling (editor, Hospitality magazine)

10.10–10.40am

Get Staffed! Finding and Keeping the Right People Geremy Glew (director, Placed Recruitment), Nelly Robinson (owner, nel. restaurant), Darren Templeman (head chef, O Bar and Dining), Kate Tones (group HR manager, Merivale), Kylie Ball (general manager, Quay and Bennelong)

10.40–10.50am

Eating Out Landscape Graeme Philipson (Intermedia Research)

10.50–11.10am

Dishes into Dollars: Creating More Profitable Meals Nick Whitehouse (executive chef, The Epping Club), Lisa Van Haandel (owner, The Beach Hotel Byron Bay, Longrain Melbourne), David Stossel (Solotel group food and dining manager), Dee Ryan (group operations manager, Coogee Pavilion)

11.10–11.40am

MORNING COFFEE

11.40–12.00pm

Funding Your Growth Strategy Hamish Watts and Ben Carroll (founders, Applejack Hospitality), Alex Aslan (Aslan Hospitality), Warren Turnbull (founder, Chur Burger)

12.00–12.20pm

Gadget Time: Tricks for Extending Your Reach Geremy Glew (Placed Recruitment), Lisa Hasen (VP Asia Pacific, OpenTable), Sean O’Meara (founder, Impos)

12.20–12.30pm

Restaurant Leader Q&A

12.30–12.50pm

Essential Skills for Successful Chefs Nelly Robinson (owner, nel. restaurant), Alex Herbert (chef and food consultant, Bird Cow Fish), Matt Stone (head chef, Oakridge Winery), Mitch Edwards (marketing manager, Australian Pork)

12.50–1.00pm

Hit the Road: A Winning Mobile Concept Ameer El-Issa (owner, Knafeh)

1.00–2.00pm

LUNCH

2.00–2.30pm

Social Media: Holding onto the Hype Helen Yee (founder, Grab Your Fork), Michael Rodrigues (CEO Time Out Australia)

2.30–2.40pm

Restaurant Leader Q&A Matt Stone (head chef, Oakridge Winery)

2.40–3.00pm

Building a Winning Database John Fink (creative director, The Fink Group), Erez Gordon (co-owner, Bishop Sessa), Grant Lewers (founder, Restaurant Marketing). Howard Tinker (CEO, Restaurant Profits)

3.00–3.10pm

Rising from the Ashes Jake Smyth (co-owner, The Unicorn)

3.10–3.40pm

AFTERNOON TEA

3.40–4.00pm

Lessons from the Rise of Fast Casual Warren Turnbull (founders, Chur Burger), Thomas Pash (CEO, Urban Purveyor Group), David Stossel (Solotel group food and dining manager)

4.00–4.20pm

Diversify Your Revenue Stream Erez Gordon (owner, Bishop Sessa), Craig MacIndoe (founder of The Grass Fed Guy), Levi Aron (Australian country manager, Deliveroo), Alex Herbert (chef and food consultant, Bird Cow Fish)

4.20–4.30pm

How Millenials Run Restaurants Josephine Perry (owner, Missy French)

4.30–4.50pm

The Future of Your Hospitality Business Thomas Pash (CEO, Urban Purveyor Group), John Fink (creative director, The Fink Group), Lisa van Haandel (owner, The Beach Hotel Byron Bay, Longrain Melbourne)

4.50–5.00pm 5.00–6.30pm

WRAP UP AND CONFERENCE CLOSE Networking Drinks

Monday 26 September, 2016 Venue: Doltone House, Jones Bay Wharf, Sydney

Why you should attend “The energy of our industry is rarely harnessed in such a positive informative forum. The RLS is an opportunity for everyone, novices and experts alike, to share and learn in an environment dedicated to the betterment of our individual businesses as well as the food and beverage industry as a whole. I am looking forward to sharing my experiences almost as much as I am to learning about the success methods of others.”

– Erez Gordon, co-owner, Bishop Sessa

“The Restaurant Leaders Summit is the ideal setting to share ideas and pool our collective thoughts on trends, strategies and changes that are occurring across the industry. I’m looking forward to hearing about the experiences, challenges and successes of my peers and taking away some key learnings from the day.”

– Thomas Pash, CEO, Urban Purveyor Group

Ticket prices are from $295 + GST

Register now at www.restaurantleaders.com.au Sponsored by

sauces

Liquid gold Sauces play a crucial role in most cuisines.

While some, like the French mother sauces have long been considered fundamental, others, like Tabasco and Worcestershire are also an essential part of a chef’s arsenal. By Madeline Woolway.

28 Hospitality September 2016

sauces

O

ver a decade ago, Malcolm Gladwell wrote about the rise of a humble kitchen condiment – tomato sauce. In the article, titled The Ketchup Conundrum, Gladwell outlined the ubiquitous condiment’s evolution at the hands of Henry J Heinz. Heinz, now a household name, made ketchup, or tomato sauce, what it is today: a perfect blend of salty, sweet, sour, bitter, and umami.

But when it comes to the mind of chef, Tabasco and Worcestershire are to many commercial kitchens what ketchup is to many diners’ hot chips – an absolute necessity. Yet, their recipes, unlike that of ketchup, have gone unchanged for centuries. So what is it about these two bottled weapons that chefs can’t help but love?

TABASCO “Tabasco has a bright acidity, a bright heat,” said Victor Liong, owner and chef of Lee Ho Fook in Melbourne. “I like to add it into sauces or into any dish that I want to have a background heat.”

Liong swears by the McIlhenny Tabasco, saying the bottled version is all he needs.

“I’m all for using it out of the bottle. If you have a good understanding of the flavour profile, techniques, and what you want to achieve, then sometimes it’s quite interesting what you can do with things that are quite common.”

Morgan McGlone, owner and chef at Belle’s Hot Chicken and currently in charge of the Harpoon Harry’s kitchen, is also a fan of the 140 year old McIlhenny family recipe.

“I use the Green Jalapeño Pepper Sauce with oysters. All you need is nice, chilled oysters, cracked black pepper and then green Tabasco,” McGlone said.

However, given the quantities that he goes through between the two venues, McGlone finds it most efficient to make his own.

“I make a Tabasco style hot sauce, with a recipe very similar to the McIlhenny family one. There’s nothing wrong with the bottle version, it’s a wonderful thing. That recipe has been in their family for years, it’s perfection.

It’s just easier for us to make our own because of the amount we use,” said McGlone.

Tabasco might be the most iconic and well-recognised hot sauce, but in the past decade a number of variations have made their way to Australia.

“In terms of hot sauce, I really enjoy the Tabasco style. I like the fermentation process. Tabasco is made with a lot vinegar during the fermentation process, so it’s actually quite acidic, which I really dig,” he said.

“I use it to pick up the flavourings in things.

Hot sauce brings out the more savoury characters. I add it right at the end, instead of adding lemon juice. A couple of splashes of hot sauce smooths out the flavour.

“It’s more about putting an acidic kick in, a little bit of acid and a little bit of heat.

Tabasco isn’t really that hot, it’s more of a rounding heat. There’s more flavour in Tabasco than there is in a lot of the other hot sauces. If it’s too hot it’s going to fuck up your palate.”

McGlone’s not lying when he says he sticks fairly closely to the Tabasco family’s recipe, which is made using aged red chillies, salt from Avery Island, Louisiana, and distilled vinegar.

“We blend chillies and salt and then we allow that to ferment for eight weeks. After that we add a balance of white vinegar and apple cider vinegar and allow them to ferment for another three weeks. Then we pass that, push out all the juice and blend with a touch of xantham to thicken. It’s not complicated; it just takes a little bit of time,” he said.

“We make a batch of two 20 litre buckets at a time, and we rotate that. So every two to three weeks we start a new 40 litre batch.”

While the sauce is served out of the bottle on request at Belle’s Hot Chicken, McGlone uses it more during the cookng process at Harpoon Harry’s.

“At Harpoon we have a dish called Hoppin’ John, which is rice, beans and braised greens.

One of the most important things in that dish is the Tabasco style hot sauce,” he said.

For other dishes, it becomes a key component of a more complex sauce.

“I also make a Tabasco hot butter sauce, which I serve with fish and then shelled rice and beans. Basically all I do is make up onion and garlic, loads of white wine, then I put a whole bottle of hot sauce in there, and a little bit of fish stock, blend in cold butter so it emulsifies, then put in a pinch of xantham gum to stabilise it.”

And of course, it’s an important ingredient in the Southern staple, remoulade, along with Worcestershire.

WORCESTERSHIRE As with Tabasco, both Liong and McGlone stand by the bottled version, available in supermarkets. In particular, both are a fan of Lea & Perrins, the brand that orginated the sauce in the 1830s.

In McGlone’s words: “You can’t beat Lea & Perrins. They’re the OG, they’re the best”.

“Worcestershire has a mellow acidity, and it amplifies the flavour of soy sauce, so we use it a lot in marinades,” said Liong. “It’s my secret weapon in Caesar salad.

Because it’s made with anchovies, so it’s a bit salty, plus it has a savoury background and that September 2016 Hospitality 29

Belle’s Hot Chicken with hot sauce

sauces

mellow acidity. When I make Caesar dressing I tend to use two acids: the Worcestershire and lemon juice.”

In many ways, Worcestershire can be compared to fish sauce. In fact, Liong likes to refer to it as the fish sauce of the West.

“Fish sauce is salty sweet umami, whereas Worcestershire is slightly funky, big umami, and it’s bit more acidic, it’s a bit more complex. The umami and salty characteristics are quite similar; it’s the fruity funkiness that sets them apart.

“It’s probably my favourite sauce, I use it a lot. It just isn’t trending at the moment. It’s funny because Worcestershire is a traditional accompaniment to salt and pepper pigeon. The pigeon is so rich and heavy, the sauce cuts through all of that, it’s such a good combination. It’s a key ingredient in Macanese cooking,” said Liong.

“It is quite strong, but it always amplifies whatever you pair it with; I just never mention it. Then people will ask ‘how do you that?’”

It’s this secret sauce attribute that makes it so appealing to McGlone. “When you use that move, it really surprises people. At Husk [in South Carolina] 30 Hospitality September 2016

we used to call it the ‘ace in the hole’,” he said.

In fact, along with hot sauce, Worcestershire was one of the staples in the Husk kitchen.

“We would have a bottle of hot sauce and a bottle of Worcestershire [on hand]; add a drop or two of either of those those to a dish and you’ve taken it to the next level.”

So how does McGlone make use of the staple?

“We use Worcestershire a lot in our dressings and sauces at Belle’s and Harpoon’s. It’s in our ranch dressing, it’s in our blue cheese dressing. It’s pretty common in Southern cuisines, things like remoulade.

“Then we also use it in our devilled eggs at Harpoon’s and the oysters kilpatrick. I use it to round off flavours and get that sweet and sour thing without using sugar and vinegar.

“One of my favourite sauces in the world is reduced beef stock, Worcestershire sauce, beef fat – Worcestershire and beef fat go really well together – a knob of butter and some thyme leaves. Over a steak that is the best sauce ever.

“You gotta have it in the kitchen, it’s a master sauce.”

For Liong, it’s not too much of a stretch to imagine Worcestershire as the mother of condiments across the globe; it’s the original fruit and vegetable sauce.

“It’s like you have mother sauces, so maybe you can look at it like Worcestershire is the mother sauce of HP and tonkatsu,” said Liong.

Looking at the recipes, it’s hard to argue; both HP, another British export, and tonkatsu, a Japanese sauce, the most famous brand of which is called Bulldog (a tribute to the British origins), are clearly derived from a Worcestershire base, although with some notable changes.

“It’s a very interesting thing to explore, especially in the West with table condiments. It adds to a better understanding of how to use them.” n

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The taste of Avery Island A story of 3 ingredients that shaped the culinary world

H

ave you ever heard of a man by the name of Edmund McIllhenny? His name may not be as prevalent in society as Thomas Edison or Leonardo Da Vinci but Edmund McIllheny was an inventor too. He created something that is found in restaurants around the globe, and that adds an extra dimension and heat to your meals.

Guessed yet? He’s the man who created a rather special something on Avery Island in Louisiana, way back in 1868 and it’s something that has remained virtually unchanged ever since. Using only 3 ingredients - peppers, vinegar and salt - and aged for up to 3 years, Edmund McIllhenny is the man who created one of the most distinctive and widely embraced sauces in professional and home kitchens around the world; his invention – Tabasco Sauce.

Tabasco has always been the sauce you can add to a meal that compliments and lifts flavours when used in moderation, all without masking the taste. As we’re sure you’ve read in our sauce feature (page 28), chefs love what it brings to a dish and understand the true range and distinctive flavour that only Tabasco can impart.

We spoke with Matt McConnell of Bar Lourinhã in Melbourne about his venue, the roles pepper sauces play in his food and if you jump onto HospitalityMagazine.com.au, you can experience the amazing flavours of the recipes.

Matt draws a lot of his inspiration from experiences he has encountered over the years and when developing menus he works very closely with farmers and suppliers. Having flexibility and adaptability allows him to use ingredients that may only be in season or at their best for a very short time.

With first-hand experience with Eastern and Moorish influences of the Iberian Peninsula, Matt incorporates spice and heat on many levels throughout the menu. This is evident especially in the recipes we have for you, where Matt uses Tabasco Green Sauce as a light marinade for tuna and also incorporated it into a lime dressing that accompanies it.

“Tabasco Green Sauce is my favourite as it has a really mild heat with a lingering flavour that marries well with lime,” said Matt.

“It’s also great with a very high grade fish like Yellowfin Tuna.”

For the carne cruda, another raw meat dish, he has used Tabasco Original Red Sauce as a seasoning agent for the meat.

Visit tabascosauce.com.au for more inspiration.

September 2016 Hospitality 31

desserts

The sweet side of savoury A fresh take on sweet staples is allowing chefs to be more creative, while keeping diners intrigued, writes Aoife Boothroyd.

I

n a world of freakshakes, extreme doughnuts and ice cream concoctions that resemble a five year old’s best Crayola masterpiece, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Australia’s dessert scene revolves entirely around sugar. But an increasing number of Australia’s pastry chefs are relying less and less on sweetness, making savoury flavours the star of the show.

Now we’re not talking cheese and a bit of quince paste; we’re talking tomato and basil cannoli; roasted potato ice cream; and spiced pumpkin and duck egg mousse – flavours and ingredients that are traditionally seen in entrees and mains, but are holding their own in the sweet section too.

According to Sydney-based chef Danny Russo, savoury desserts, in general, aren’t exactly a new concept, but what is new is the refinement of the techniques, flavour 32 Hospitality September 2016

Ethos' basil granita, brulee tomato.

combinations and creativity being employed by chefs today.

“It’s like everything else. One of the most important parts to creating a savoury dessert is to start off with no boundaries. That’s first and foremost; you need to think outside the square,” said Russo.

“You’ve also got to think about how the dish will work as a whole. The story and the philosophy behind the dish always determines the end result. If you’re adding a savoury element just to make it look pretty, it’s not going to do any justice to the dish.

When you look at it and break it all down, you’ve got to ask yourself whether the dish has balance. If the answer is yes, then it’s going to be a good dish.”

There are a number of savoury-style desserts that Russo has in his repertoire including a tomato cannoli, which involves creating a

tomato consommé that is set into a gel and then made into thin sheets. The gel is then rolled into a cylinder and filled with a saffron creme patissiere and paired with salted caramel, green olives and a buffalo milk gelato.

Other dishes that Russo makes mention of date back as far as the 16th century.

“You can use blood in desserts; that’s very common in the south of Italy. There’s a dish called Sanguinaccio, which is basically nuts, dried fruit, pig’s blood and chocolate and that goes back centuries. So again, all we’ve really done is refined the cooking method,” he told Hospitality.

SAVOURY WITH THE SEASONS Iain Todd, owner and chef of Hobart’s Ethos Eat Drink is constantly on his toes when it comes to recipe creation. With a degustation menu that changes daily and is heavily

desserts

reliant on the seasons, it comes as no surprise that Todd has tried his hand at quite a few different savoury desserts.

“Every morning I look at the ingredients that we have in the cool room and use those as the inspiration for the dishes. One of the joys of doing a multiple course menu is that we have two desserts, so we try and do a more savoury-style transitional dessert, and then a sweeter one,” Todd said.

Some of Todd’s more memorable savoury creations include a spiced pumpkin dish comprising puréed roasted pumpkin flavoured with a hint of vanilla, cooked out with some duck eggs and turned into a mousse; unsweetened almond milk paired with carrot jelly and bitter chocolate; and a basil granita with brûlée tomato.

When it comes to ingredients, Todd said that tomato, cucumber, tamarillo and a variety of herbs, such as basil and coriander, lend themselves particularly well to savoury desserts, and like Russo, Todd said that a great savoury dessert is all about balance.

“I believe that all desserts need some salt in them, just to balance that sweetness, but it doesn’t have to be strictly savoury, so to speak. You just need to be able to balance the sugar with something else, whether it be acid, salt or bitterness.”

But not every dish is perfect from the start.

Todd admits that one of Ethos’ savoury desserts didn’t quite turn out as planned.

“I tried to do a chrysanthemum leaf dessert once that didn’t work out ... I had another chef

Ethos' unsweetened almond milk, carrot jelly, bitter chocolate.

Credit: Jonathan Wherrett

Cucumber, rose, almond and coriander at Master.

Master's onion, rice and Tsingtao.

that got it right so it wasn’t a total disaster, but I did waste a bit of chrysanthemum leaf…

With the menu changing every day, we kind of use the ideas and evolve them so when we stumble upon something that works, we take that concept and run with it.”

CURIOUS COMBINATIONS Master restaurant in Sydney’s Surry Hills has made a name for itself thanks to its intriguing savoury dessert offerings. Chef and co-owner John Javier said that his desire to create desserts that are more savoury than sweet has more to do with his personal taste than a desire to follow trends.

“I don’t have a sweet tooth nor have I ever run a pastry section, so naturally, my palate is more accustomed to savoury desserts,” Javier said.

The dish that has had many Sydneysiders scrambling to make a reservation at the Crown Street restaurant is Javier’s “Roasted Potato”. Comprising roasted potato ice cream rolled in crushed cookies, the concoction is tempura battered then deep fried, and finished with a crumble of malt and freeze dried balsamic vinegar. The dish has been so popular that a decision to take it off the menu was swiftly reversed when diners voiced their concerns. Another dish that became an

instant hit is Javier’s cucumber, rose, almond and coriander dessert.

While the majority of Javier’s desserts have been met with overwhelming praise, others have left diners divided.

“I came up with a burnt onion dessert,” he said. “It was served with rice cooked in beer, cream and brown butter. Our customers either loved it or hated it.”

In terms of the processes involved in creating savoury versus sweet desserts, Javier said there’s no real difference aside from the products used – you’ve just got to be willing to use your imagination and experiment.

“Certain vegetables work really well; vegetables such as carrots and Jerusalem artichokes are naturally sweet. We’ve been working on a Jerusalem artichoke, chocolate and salted caramel dessert … Neutral flavours such as those of potatoes and cucumbers also work really well, as do fragrant herbs such as coriander, parsley and rosemary.

“But at the end of the day, cooking is always evolving and curiosity will always lead creativity ... I believe that’s what makes chefs experiment.” n Note: Master Dining closed its Surry Hills site on 21 August. Its owners plan to relocate to Sydney’s CBD. September 2016 Hospitality 33

cocktails

Mixing it up The premiumisation trend isn’t just affecting alcoholic beverages. Whether you’re interested in making them in-house or buying them in, it’s important to have the right mixers to either match with your spirits or serve on their own. By Madeline Woolway.

MAKING YOUR OWN For Charlie Casben, owner of Redfern bar, Moya's Juniper Lounge, making his own mixers started out of personal interest.

“We just wanted to try to do as much from scratch as possible ... Chefs are always trying to do everything themselves and it was always way cooler when they’d made things in-house. For years in bars you’d always just buy things from the wholesaler because it was easy. It seemed like there was a big disconnect between where food was heading and where drinks were heading. I guess I wanted to emulate a bit more of what was happening in kitchens: keep it local, keep it fresh, not everything has to be mass produced,” he said.

“Specifically for Moya’s, we wanted to make a neutral tonic. A lot of the artisan tonics that are popping up are really great, but they’re all vying to be unique, so they have a lot of their own herbs and spices, which can sometimes detract from the gin. At Moya’s we want people to try a lot of different gins, and we want the gins to stand out on their own.

So, the tonic we make here is quite neutral aromatically and a lot less sweet.”

Besides tonic, Casben also makes a number of mixers, including syrups and shrubs.

“Syrup is the simplest form of mixer. It’s pretty much just a flavoured sugar syrup made by either steeping or cooking ingredients into a sugar syrup, sometimes with acid added (citric or malic) to stabilise and balance the sweetness. Our lime cordial, mustard mandarin and masala grenadine are just fancy syrups,” said Casben.

Shrubs are traditional, old style mixers that are essentially a preservation technique.

“Fresh fruit is preserved in vinegar and after a few weeks pressed out and sugar is added to sweeten,” Casben said.

“Our raspberry and blueberry shrubs are made with apple cider vinegar and sweetened with organic dehydrated (unrefined) cane sugar.”

Tonics, on the other hand, are usually a herbal tincture designed to have medicinal properties, said Casben.

“Not that we’re pretending our tonic water wards off malaria or anything else, but back in the day that was the idea.

Most ‘tonic’ waters will contain a bittering agent, the most common being cinchona bark (the natural source of quinine) among other flavouring agents such as citrus, herbs, spices and flowers. Ours is cinchona bark, cassia bark, grapefruit zest, agave and lemon juice. It’s quite a simple version designed to be relatively neutral against the different gins.”

But, what does making all these mixers in-house involve?

According to Casben, it took some experimenting to get them right, but once you’ve got a recipe it’s not difficult and it doesn’t require much investment.

“The soda part is straightforward. We just use a Soda Stream. Originally the drawback when trying to make them was working out how to mix them. There are a couple of different ways, like with the old soda syphons, but they often 34 Hospitality September 2016

Cocktails mixed using Milla Bush Tonics.

cocktails

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Moya’s Juniper Lounge back bar.

end up being quite inconsistent. With Soda Stream you gas the bottle, add the syrup, and shake it up,” said Casben.

“At the end of the day they’re really just sugar syrups. From a commercial point of view, one of the things that can get in the way is preservation; once you get to that scale you need to think about controlling the acid level. But because we’re using them on a small scale we can just make them fresh at the drop of a hat or freeze them in smaller amounts.

“We go through a reasonable amount of the tonic, and we go through loads of the raspberry shrub because it’s in the Clover Club, which is probably the fastest moving drink,” said Casben. “The tonic we make each week. With the syrups and shrubs, we’ll batch up a few litres and freeze it. So we’ll make a month’s worth and then take a bottle out as we need.”

So, is it worth it?

“I hate to say it, but it [doesn't represent] a whole bunch of your sales. Financially it’s a terrible idea, but it’s more fun and I think it adds value for the customer.”

AN AUSTRALIAN TWIST Milla Cordials, based in the region of Orange, NSW, was established in 2013 by Camilla Strang and Melanie Ashton. Strang and Ashton set out to experiment and explore the possibility of homemade cordials that showcase the unique qualities of Australian bush fruits.

“We started about three years ago, when we saw the elderflower cordials starting to be imported to Australia from England. My business partner Mel and I are from the UK originally. We grew up on those, farm gate handmade cordials in England. And we started to think why was everything being shipped from the UK, why wasn’t anything being made from the bush plants around us.

So we started looking at the idea of starting this business and we looked at what was available and really thought there was a niche,” said Strang.

“In Orange there’s a lot of fruit growing happening, so we started with an apple base, from local apples down the road, and we mixed that with rosella and Australian ginger to make our first cordial.

Milla Bush Tonic Grapefruit & Lemon Aspen Sundowner • 30ml vodka • 1 ruby grapefruit • 200ml Ruby Grapefruit & Lemon Aspen Milla Bush Tonic • Mint for garnish • Lashings of ice Add 30ml of vodka to a long glass. Slice the ruby grapefruit into four segments.Squeeze a segment into the glass, and drop the rest of the whole squashed segment into the glass.

Pour in 200ml Grapefruit & Lemon Aspen Milla Bush Tonic.

Add a sprig of mint for garnish and ice to serve.

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cocktails

“We then went on to experiment with other native Australian ingredients. Now there are four flavours in our cordial range, using lemon myrtle, Kakadu plum and rainforest lime and bush ingredients like that.”

While Strang and Ashton didn’t set out to create mixers for cocktails, the cordials do lend themselves to the task of cocktail making.

“We’ve got a few bars that have been using our syrups. Top end bar operators are always looking for something different, and Milla fits in with that. We had one bar mixing with our syrups and calling them bush cocktails. We’re also at Bennelong. We supply them with three of our flavours and they use them for mocktails,” said Strang.

The reason Milla cordials work so well as a mixer is because native Australian ingredients have the weight to stand up to spirits.

“A lot of these bush products are quite tart, they can balance alcohol that needs strong flavours.”

Along with the Milla cordials, Strang and Ashton have just released a range of tonics, which currently features two flavours: ruby grapefruit and lemon aspen; and sparkling apple, ginger and rosella.

“They’re carbonated versions of our cordials. The ones we’ve chosen to be carbonated lend themselves to be mixed with vodka. All you have to do is thrown in the vodka. It’s very simple. We’re hoping lots of bars, restaurants and cafes will take them on,” said Strang.

“We’re seeing a premiumisation and the rise of the craft spirit industry, especially the gin sector, and this has created a great opportunity for mixers. People are becoming aware of the fact that if up to three quarters of your drink is mixer, it is important to choose the best quality mixer that you can find.”

However, until recently, Gaunt said, there hasn’t been enough focus on developing premium mixers to match the increasing interest in quality spirits.

“We are seeing significant growth in premium mixers in every single market globally and Australia is no exception. Last year we grew by over 70 percent. But when compared to spirit categories, the share of premium mixers is still generally much lower," he said.

Part of Fever-Tree’s aim is to combat the mismatch between the number of gins available and the number of tonics they can be paired with.

“Gin comes in an incredibly diverse range of styles and flavours, and we feel that different gins pair better with different styles of tonics."

But what separates Fever-Tree from the ever-increasing number of competing premium mixers? Gaunt said it comes down to sourcing the right ingredients.

Ultimate Gin & Tonic

COOL DOWN WITH FEVER-TREE

• 1 Fever-Tree Indian Tonic Water

Founded by Charles Rolls – the man who turned around the fortunes of Plymouth gin – and Tim Warrilow, Fever-Tree produced its first bottle of Indian Tonic Water in 2005. Despite growing to a catalogue of 11 mixers, which includes multiple variations of tonic and other sodas, the ethos of Fever-Tree has remained focussed on providing products that enhance the spirits they’re paired with.

“Bars and trade have realised the trend in mixer premiumisation and this is evident in the growth of both the Indian tonic water and Mediterranean tonic water SKUs in bars and trade,” Andy Gaunt, acting Asia-Pacific Fever-Tree brand director, told Hospitality.

• 1 measure (50ml) of your favourite gin

36 Hospitality September 2016

“The quinine is sourced from the Democratic Republic of Congo, from the original Cinchona trees, known as fever-trees. Lemon extracts are sourced from the slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily and ensure the lemonade has a unique, citrus tang. Bitter orange oils are traced from Zygoma, Tanzania and lemon thyme and rosemary are sourced from La Drôme, Provence. Three types of gingers are sourced from three different locations: fresh green ginger from the Ivory Coast, as well as Nigeria and Cochin to help create the exotic flavours in the ginger ale and ginger beer,” said Gaunt.

“Replacing cloying saccharin sweeteners and artificial preservatives with natural botanicals and flavours, ensures the mixers will complement and enhance spirits.”

The same attention to detail has been applied to the development of carbonation practices, which help those ingredients impart their flavour.

“The drinks are highly carbonated to deliver the botanical aromas and ensure premium freshness. We have a unique approach that allows a very high level of carbonation, great for that effervescent effect, but with small and soft bubbles that are important for carrying the flavour of the spirit.” n

• At least four big cube of fresh ice • L ime – a curl of the rind of a lime, it’s the oils you want not the flesh Using a large wine glass or a tall, slim glass, add the ice first, then pour over the gin of your choice followed

by Fever-Tree Indian tonic water, from a fresh bottle.

Finally, add the curl of lime, running it around the rim of the glass before dropping it into the drink. Make sure you are quick when adding your garnish as you want that fizz to tickle your nose as you smell the aromas of G&T. Drink and enjoy.

shelf space

New look jar for Nutella

Nutella has transformed the packaging of its 3kg tubs from brown to white to ensure foodservice professionals can better manage usage and reorder in time to prevent stock shortages. The new white tub also makes it easy for kitchen staff to identify cracks and possible product seepage, allowing kitchens to remain safe and hygienic. ferrerofoodservice.com

Custom-made, sustainable hospitality attire

Eco-friendly brand Cream Workwear has partnered with sustainable and traditional hand-loom weavers to create the new Hospitality Attire Revolution, aiming to preserve and promote the heritage skills of the sustainable hand-weaving community overseas while promoting eco-friendly products within the Australian hospitality scene. creamworkwear.com.au

Jim Beam Apple

Bottled at 30 percent ABV, the new Jim Beam Apple contains apple liqueur blended with Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey. The result is a juicy, fresh green apple taste with a balance of tart and sweet, subtle oak undertones, and a lingering apple finish with a touch of oak.

Jim Beam Apple has a fresh crisp green apple aroma with a golden honey colour. It can be served with club soda as a Jim Beam Apple Highball or on the rocks. beamsuntory.com 38 Hospitality September 2016

Industry collaboration brings new salt to the table

The Bridge Room’s Ross Lusted and Olsson’s Salt have collaborated with Pialligo Estate Smokehouse in Canberra to produce Red Gum Smoked Sea Salt. Olsson’s has smoked its Australian sea salt flakes – from South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula – over native river red gum for 72 hours, resulting in a unique salt that adds a rich, smoky flavour to meats, poultry, seafood, salads, soups, sauces and vegetables. olssons.com.au

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strapline

For the diary Upcoming events in the hospitality industry. Find out more at hospitalitymagazine.com.au Fine Food Australia 12–15 September Taking place at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre, Fine Food Australia will include live demonstrations and industry recognised competitions. The annual show attracts over 1,000 exhibitors from Australia and around the world, and is the largest tradeshow in the southern hemisphere. Highlights include the Nestle Golden Chef’s Hat competition, the Talking Food Stage, The Women in Foodservice charity event and the Offical Great Aussie Pie and Sausage Roll competition. finefoodaustralia.com.au

Restaurant Leaders Summit 26 September Held at Doltone House, Pyrmont, this one-day event will see leading chefs sharing their expertise on how restaurateurs can boost their efficiency and profitability. Hosted by Hospitality magazine, guest speakers include Thomas Pash, CEO of the Urban Purveyor Group, Nelly Robinson from nel. restaurant and Matt Stone, head chef at Oakridge Winery. restaurantleaders.com.au

Sydney Craft Beer Week 22–30 October Sydney’s largest celebration of craft beer, Sydney Craft Beer Week is back for its sixth year in 2016. Last year saw 130 craft beer-related events held across 70 of Sydney’s leading venues and outdoor spaces, with highlights including Beergustations and Hair of the Dog Breakfasts, as well as tap takeovers and axe throwing tournaments. sydneycraftbeerweek.com

Taste of Tasmania 28 December, 2016–3 January, 2017 The Taste of Tasmania is produced and presented by the City of Hobart, with the aim of presenting a memorable event that showcases some of the best food and beverages Tasmania has to offer. The annual event is hosted along the River Derwent, Hobart’s historic wharves and Salamanca Place, with stallholders including seafood, cheese and berry suppliers, as well as beer, wine and cider producers. thetasteoftasmania.com.au 40 Hospitality September 2016

Taste of Tasmania

The Nestle Golden Chef’s Hat competition is a highlight of the annual Fine Food Australia tradeshow

Like what you see?

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With 10 issues a year, Hospitality magazine has all the latest information on current trends and trendsetters in the foodservice and beverage sectors, while also keeping you abreast of new product launches and regulatory updates.

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5 minutes with...

Matt Stone, head chef at Oakridge Winery

Every restaurant can afford to introduce sustainable practices in their business, said chef Matt Stone, it’s just a matter of adjusting your attitude.

W

orking in a wine region is a lot different to what I’ve done in the past. It’s a lot more transient. In the city, often you build up a really big customer base of regulars, but it’s a little more difficult to do that in a winery. But at the same time, one of the biggest draw cards for me, when I started working here, was having the luxury of space – space to compost, space to grow food, space to park my car and not have to worry about cramming it into little alleyways.

We don’t use any seafood here, because we’re too far from the ocean. The local area really dictates the menu. Since I started here, just over a year ago, we’ve planted close to 500 square metres of vegetable garden across the property, and we’re composting all of our green waste.

We save about $40,000 a year in chemicals, because we use an e-water system in the kitchen. It’s what surgeons wash their hands in before they perform procedures. So it’s water that gets an electric charge put through it which splits the molecules and then a salt solution is added to it. You end up with a completely neutral 42 Hospitality September 2016

cleaner and sanitiser, from the one machine. We use that for all our scrubbing: the stoves, the floors, the benches, the restaurant tables. It’s a $5,000 machine, so initially it’s quite a cost, but from there it’s really not.

The end of sous vide cooking isn’t too far away, I reckon. Cooking in plastic bags and things like that is hugely wasteful and really silly, I think. Chefs are looking back to more traditional techniques now, and they’re using more food that’s local to their area, so there are less food miles involved.

The biggest thing is changing your mindset. It’s a matter of realising that being more sustainable takes time. And once you become passionate about it, it’s amazing how you can find money in different areas of the business to make it happen. It’s about attitude and time, more than anything else. If your business is doing well, there’s no reason that you can't implement some of these things, as part of a 12 to 24 month plan.

Matt Stone, together with Murdoch Books, has recently released his first cookbook, The Natural Cook.

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