RETAILING: APERITIVO

Ancient tradition meets modernity

Seamus May explores how retailers can harness the timeless stories and techniques of aperitifs to connect with drinkers.

Aperitifs and amari have always possessed a sense of old world mystique, and recent trends have breathed new life into the category.

An emphasis on authenticity and the renewed popularity of classic cocktails means that the secret recipes and storied histories of aperitifs have added commercial value for retailers.

Aperitivo: an opportunity ‘opens’

Traditionally, many of the brands in the aperitif category have been enjoyed during the aperitivo occasion, which takes its name from the Latin word ‘aperire’, meaning ‘to open’, as these drinks were said to open the appetite and prepare the body for a meal.

Maja Cunningham, Marketing Assistant at Beam Suntory (distributor of Galliano), outlined how aperitifs, and particularly the aperitivo pre-dinner occasion, are resonating more than ever with drinkers.

Select Aperitivo

Select Aperitivo was created in 1920 in the Castello district of Venice and soon became a favourite, establishing Select Aperitivo as the star of the Venetian cocktail scene. Its made by blending 30botanicals, including juniper berries and rhubarb roots that contribute to creating a sophisticated and approachable bittersweet flavor. Rhubarb roots are macerated individually and carefully processed with artisanal mastery to give the product its intense bitter note. Juniper berries are macerated and extracted so their fresh, resinous notes add a strong structure and balance to the bitter, making it perfect for mixing. Select Aperitivo is characterised by a sophisticated aromatic profile and a well-balanced bittersweet taste.

“Aperitivo culture has become more widely appreciated – now a prevalent drinking occasion among both traditional and western culture across the globe,” Cunningham said.

“Aperitivo is deeply ingrained in Italian social culture – an excuse to meet friends before a meal, as well as a time to wind down in the evening with a refreshing drink after a day at work.

“This shared experience that remains the spirit of aperitivo occasions is what should be continually shared and celebrated among consumers around the world.”

Similarly, Mungo Gilchrist, CEO of Spirits Platform (which imports brands like Villa Massa, Select Spritz, Disaronno and Amaro Montenegro), believes that “Australians are great world travellers and, having experienced the aperitivo on their European vacations, it’s natural to want to replicate their aperitivo experience back home.”

Gilchrist also said Google Trends data indicates an increasing interest in the aperitivo occasion over the last five years.

Within the aperitif category, Campari is undoubtedly one of the most well known, producing both its eponymous bitter liqueur, as well as Aperol, among the most popular liquor brands of the 21st century. For Marketing Director, Paolo Marinoni, it’s the focus on drinks specific to this category that makes the aperitivo occasion so special.

“Consumers are wanting to try something different to wine to pair with meals,” Marinoni says. “Refreshing alternatives like Aperol Spritz or Campari and soda are a popular choice to pair with a meal. They are also popular as they are often lower in ABV and have healthier perceptions than other choices.”

And as Marinoni reminds us, for some people, aperitivo has always been an important occasion.

“The aperitivo ritual has been celebrated in Italy and across Europe for well over 100 years – it is culturally embedded in society and daily or weekly routines.”

Liquid history

Indeed, the tradition that Marinoni describes can perhaps give aperitifs a cutting edge when it comes to connecting with drinkers.

Galliano is one of the category’s historic brands – originating as a medicinal tonic developed in the late 19th century. The brand now boasts a range of aperitif options, including a vanilla-flavoured expression, expanding the opportunity of the aperitivo occasion.

“The Galliano selection celebrates a range of occasions, whether it’s Galliano L’Aperitivo stirred gently with a selection of light fruits, citrus and bubble, or Galliano Ristretto for an indulgent, rich Espresso Martini – there’s a place for Galliano in every occasion,” Cunningham explains.

Jonathan Howells, Group Marketing Manage for Amber Beverage Australia (which distributes Fernet-Branca) echoes the sentiments of Cunningham and Marinoni and believes the spread of aperitivo culture is joined by a deepening understanding of drinks suitable for the occasion.

“Internationally we are seeing both a growth in understanding of aperitivo as an occasion and greater consumer understanding of the diversity of drinks that fit into the aperitivo category,” Howells commented.

“Specifically with reference to Fernet-Branca, we are seeing more consumers who enter the category through more bittersweet expressions looking to move further into the world of amari and appreciate the idiosyncrasy of styles such as Fernet.”

Fernet-Branca remains family-owned and is one of the oldest brands in the category, having first been produced in Milan in 1845. As Howells explains, effective communication of these stories is a priority.

“We as brand owners obviously need to make sure our stories are well-understood, and primarily that is our responsibility,” he said.

Capturing current trends

For Howells, there’s a clear link between historic aperitif brands, and the drinks trends of 2022.

“Premiumisation and mindful drinking are also trends that grew strongly over the past few years, with people tending to drink less quantity but of a better drink,” he said.

Gilchrist concurs, saying: “As consumers explore lower alcohol options, aperitif-style drinks are gaining popularity, especially among millennials.”

The desire for authenticity and high quality among younger drinkers leaves the aperitif category auspiciously positioned to attract a new market of consumers.

Aperol

Sunny, lively, and social, Aperol Spritz is the perfect drink to bring a touch of Italian style to any occasion. Aperol Spritz is best-enjoyed during a peritivo, Italy’s iconic take on happy hour. Enjoy your own a peritivo moment by sharing an Aperol Spritz with friends and food that complements Aperol’sbittersweet notes. Drinkers can scan the QR code on the back of the bottle and explore an interactive augmented reality experience showcasing how to create the perfect Aperol Spritz.

“We want retailers to be able to articulate how this historic, unique drink fits into the day to day life of their consumers, as this advocacy is ultimately what will drive more people to try amari,” Howells said.

Yet this weight of tradition does not mean there is no room for innovation. At the other end of the spectrum is Hotel Starlino, a recent addition to the aperitif category, which is imported by Stuart Alexander & Co.

As Liquor Marketing Manager, Gemma Eastwood, says, Hotel Starlino is hoping to capture the attention of drinkers with a lighter style, and natural fruit distillates designed for the modern palate.

“Starlino takes cues from the golden age of aperitivos with its ‘art nouveau’ inspired bottles and labels, then gives the range a modern twist with the use of on-trend fruit flavours,” she said.

A drink for all seasons

Spritz-style drinks, which hero aperitifs, remain enormously popular during the Australian summer and are widely understood by drinkers. However, as Eastwood explained, there is work to be done by both producers and retailers to communicate the potential of aperitifs in the cooler months.

“Consumers understand the spritz concept very well, but are less aware of the versatility of aperitifs in winter,” she said.

Amaro Montenegro

Created in 1885, Amaro Montenegro is a blend of 40 hand-selected botanicals and the recipe remains unchanged, unmistakable, with its unique flavour developing a prestigious reputation around the world. There are six distinct and unmistakable aromatic notes of Amaro Montenegro – bitter and herbaceous; spicy and floral; sweet and roasted; fresh and balsamic; fruity and vegetal; warm and tropical. The final and fundamental element of this unique amaro is called the Premio.’ Created by the MasterHerbalist, the Premio, meaning ‘prize’ in Italian, is a micro distillate that creates the unrivaled, delicate, complexity of Amaro Montenegro.

Retailers can help drinkers understand how to drink their favourite aperitif in winter, through the use of simple recipe cards or product bundles.

“That’s the beauty of the aperitivo – it doesn’t have to be over-complicated,” Eastwood adds.

“A simple serve of vermouth with tonic of your choice or Prosecco and soda plus a twist of citrus is enough to satisfy.”

This combination of adaptability and simplicity is also touched upon by Joe Molinari of Combined Wines, distributors of brands like Capo Amaro, Strega and Santa Maria al Monte.

“Although aperitifs are being used more and more as cocktail ingredients, in winter, they are meant be drunk straight,” Molinari says.

“The sector is growing more and more every year because of its versatility.”Surveying the category at large, Sophie Smallwood, Events Manager for Beam Suntory, said:

“Competition is hot for the conventional liquids linked to the aperitif category.”

Nevertheless, with the revival of classic cocktails an ongoing trend in the drinksindustry, aperitifs are well-placed to take advantage as more and more traditional cocktailscome back into the limelight.

As Cunningham says: “Cocktails are evolving year on year, as are the interests,preferences and tastes of consumers.”

Howells also believes that “the unique nature of products such as Fernet-Brancaprovide bartenders with an instant means of adding complexity to the profile of otherclassic cocktails.”

He points to the Milano-Torino (or ‘Mi-To’), one of the oldest aperitif cocktails, asa possible winter option for drinkers. This cocktail combines Milanese liqueurs (suchas Campari or Fernet-Branca) with Italian vermouth from Turin. Somewhat Negroniadjacent,this is a winter-warmer that is perfect for introducing the aperitivo occasionas the temperatures dip.

Cunningham outlined a possible avenue for aperitif brands and retailers in the wintermonths, playing into the after-dinner, or ‘digestivo’ occasion.

One suggestion for this occasion using Galliano is the ‘Hot Shot’, a drink createdto warm up winter nights in the frosty regions of Sweden, and an alternative to one ofAustralia’s preferred ‘digestif ’ cocktails, the Espresso Martini.

Vecchio Amaro del Capo

Vecchio Amaro del Capo is a herb-based liqueur, fruit of an ancient recipe from the Caffofamily. Amaro del Capo is made using more than 29 beneficial and medicinal herbs, flowers, fruits and roots from the rich landof Calabria. Enjoy Vecchio Amarodel Capo ice-cold (suggested serving temperature -20) to enhance flavours and scents of the herbs in the liqueur, or in long drinks and cocktails. Due to the high quality of the raw materials and the expertise of the Master Distillers, Caffo family products have received many awards and recognitions over the years at prestigious international competitions. Amaro delCapo has been awarded with a PlatinumMedal at the SIP Awards 2017, and a GoldMedal at Concuour Mondial de Bruxelles in2010 and 2014, Internationaler SpititousenWettdewerb 2014 and 2016, SelectionsMondiales des Spiriteux Canada 2011,and Wine Enthusiast 94.

Cunningham said: “The Hot Shot involves gentle layering of 15ml Galliano Vanilla,15ml hot espresso and 15ml cream.”

Ultimately though, aperitifs will always be intrinsically linked to the tradition fromwhich they were born, the ‘original happy hour’ of the aperitivo occasion.

Indeed, Howells believes that the eventual success of the category in the winter monthsdepends upon the success of selling the occasion of aperitivo to drinkers.

“The best strategy would be to educate consumers and remind them of what aperitivostands for: preparing for a big meal, with great company around them,” Howells said.

“Isn’t that exactly what we do in winter time?”