WHISKY TRADE BUYERS GUIDE: DRAMS DOWN UNDER

TRADE BUYER’S GUIDE: Aussie whisky

Drams Down Under

More than 30 years since craft distilling first became legal in Australia, the whisky we make Down Under is considered world class. Caoimhe Hanrahan-Lawrence finds out what Aussie distillers are doing right.

The Australian whisky category is growing steadily, both in terms of new whiskies hitting the market and with new consumers entering the category. At the same time, Australian whisky is receiving more and more international acclaim, with many whiskies sporting golds from competitions such as the World Whiskies Awards. For an industry that only started in 1992, when Bill Lark lobbied the government to legalise craft distilling, Australian whisky has grown into a formidable part of our liquor industry.

Despite stereotypes about the average whisky drinker, growth in Australian whisky is primarily coming from men and women aged 18 to 35, as Brian Sheedy, Liquor Marketing Manager, Vok Beverages, told National Liquor News

“Many people think consumers are all over 50, but we are finding great growth in the younger demographic. Many are curious about what products are made from or the distillery’s story and want to support local,” he said.

The lifecycle of Aussie whisky

Australian whisky is influenced by our climate, celebrated agriculture, unique approach to distilling, and other successful drinks categories. Dave Vitale, Founder, Starward explained that the confluence of these factors makes for a unique range of products.

“In Australia you can find whiskies made in the finest of Scottish traditions, and then on the other end of the spectrum you can find whiskies that are unapologetically different due to ingredients, process or even climate,” he said.

Whisky begins with distilled malt and barley, and Australia’s strong agricultural industry provides us with great ingredients from the get-go. Cameron Syme, Founder and Head Distiller, Great Southern Distilling Company, spoke to the quality of Australian grains.

“Australian distilleries are still the new kids on the block, as many people see it, but it’s our quality that is opening doors and driving export growth. Whisky is a reflection and concentration of the agricultural produce of the region where it is made and sourced from. In global terms, regional Australia produces some of the very best grains in the world. We are blessed with quality water, quality grain, and a clean environment,” he said.

After distillation, the spirit is transferred to a barrel or cask, which is where Australia’s world-renowned wine industry plays a role.

Casks are purchased empty, and prices can reach thousands of dollars for a single Sherry or Port cask, indicating the importance in whisky production.

Morris is one of the only distilleries in the world that uses family-owned wine casks for both aging and finishing. Our whiskies are matured in ex-red wine barrels that have been brought back to life by our cooper, while finishing takes place in barrels that have held awardwinning Morris of Rutherglen fortified wines.

-Michael Sergeant, Head of Global Marketing and Sales, Morris Whisky

Many Australian distilleries, such as Starward Whisky, use Australian red wine casks. For Founder Dave Vitale, this is a central part of the Starward story.

“All good whiskies talk to the place they’re made, in terms of ingredients, but the best talk to the culture of the place. Australia has so much to offer here, from our sheer size and climate variations, through to ingredients.

“That’s why we use the red wine barrels, because nothing says Australia from a drinks perspective like red wine. We’re leaning into what makes whisky distinctive, but with an Australian attitude,” he said.

Morris Whisky has a unique advantage when it comes to using Australian wine casks, as Michael Sergeant, Head of Global Marketing and Sales, explained.

“Morris is one of the only distilleries in the world that uses family-owned wine casks for both aging and finishing. Our whiskies are matured in ex-red wine barrels that have been brought back to life by our cooper, while finishing takes place in barrels that have held award-winning Morris of Rutherglen fortified wines,” he said.

Additionally, Australia has more flexibility when it comes to what kinds of casks can be used.

Whereas the Scotch Whisky Association requires the use of oak casks, the Australian regulations only specify that the casks must be similar to oak.

At Archie Rose Distilling Co., Head Distiller Dave Withers has been experimenting with new types of wood.

“We’re exploring using native Australian wood casks for some of our releases, as seen with our latest release Heritage Red Gum Cask Single Malt Whisky, which makes for a remarkable spirit. This kind of innovation is unique to Australia and helps share our rich provenance story,” he said.

After the whisky has been put into a barrel, Australian standards require it to age for a minimum of two years. Scott Allan, The Whisky List’s National On-Premise Sales Lead, described how the climate affects the process of whisky aging.

In Australia you can find whiskies made in the finest of Scottish traditions, and then on the other end of the spectrum you can find whiskies that are unapologetically different due to ingredients, process or even climate.

-Dave Vitale, Founder, Starward Whisky

“Our climate has a higher temperature on average than somewhere like Scotland, and it’s more variable. The cask is like a lung. It’s breathing in and out with the weather getting hotter or colder. The higher the variability, the more spirit is sucked into the barrel and the more flavour is breathed back into the whisky,” he said.

This means that Australian whiskies can develop strong colour and flavour in a much shorter time span. According to Oliver Maruda, co-Founder of The Whisky List, this accelerated aging means that Australian whiskies can be of remarkably high quality for their age.

“Consumers have been trained by the Scottish market, which labels whiskies as a 10-year-old or 12-year-old. An 18-year-old is king. We’ve been trying to educate the Australian market that Aussie whiskies that are two years or five years old could be on par with a 20-year-old Scotch,” he said.

Tasmanian exceptionalism

While the southernmost state still produces some great grain and has access to quality barrels, the climate is much cooler, and does not see the rapid aging that characterises much of mainland Australian whisky. Nevertheless, Tasmanian whisky is incredibly popular and well-regarded, not least because Tasmania was the birthplace of modern craft distilling in Australia.

Now more than ever, Australians are choosing to drink local and so it’s important that we’re leveraging Australia’s diverse terroir to craft distinct whiskies that resonate with consumers’ love for locality.

-Dave Withers, Master Distiller, Archie Rose Distilling Co.

Chris Thomson, Master Blender, Lark Distilling Co., commended Bill and Lyn Lark for their continued contribution to the Australian whisky industry.

“If you step back and look at the industry that has been built from Bill and Lyn Lark’s determination to make a great single malt whisky on this island, all success stems from their endeavours back in 1992,” he said.

Thomson expanded on the role of Tasmania’s climate on the whisky produced there.

“The cool climate and unique terroir impart distinct characteristics to its whisky. The island’s pristine environment influences the maturation process, resulting in whiskies with unique flavour profiles. This goldilocks climate, not too hot, not too cold, is something we harness to produce exceptional single malt whisky. The high-quality ingredients, including locally grown barley and pure water sources contribute to the premium product, and smooth and balanced single malt,” he said.

Owner of Overeem Whisky, Jane Overeem, said that the stories behind Tasmanian whisky are one of the things that make it so appealing.

“Tasmania has exceptional local ingredients and a great climate for maturing whisky. These elements have always been communicated with our storytelling, the way we run and host our distillery tours and events and also through the words we use on our packaging. Tasmania is the home of a large number of distilleries on a small island, producing whiskies that continue to receive global awards and praise and if that continues, I believe the prestige will hold,” she said.

Loving local

Producers who spoke to National Liquor News continue to notice a trend of buying local, which is becoming even more pronounced as consumers come to appreciate the world-class quality of Australian whisky.

“We are finding that more and more people want to support local products, which is wonderful. There is much to love about Australian whisky, from consistency in quality to innovation and interesting barrel types, the variety being produced from one distillery to the next and of course, the people behind the brands,” Overeem said.

Consumers also benefit from different avenues of exposure to Australian whisky distilleries, whether that be through visiting the distillery during a holiday, trying it at their local bar, or meeting the distiller at an event held by a retailer. Many distilleries continue to build this connection with the consumer by sharing details of the distilling process, such as bottling dates or malt composition.

“We’re always striving to champion the growth of Australian whisky through education, awareness and transparency of production techniques and ingredients. Now more than ever, Australians are choosing to drink local and so it’s important that we’re leveraging Australia’s diverse terroir to craft distinct whiskies that resonate with consumers’ love for locality,” Withers said.

While Australia does not have whisky regions as distinct as Scotland’s, Great Southern Distilling Company’s Syme expects that consumers will begin to appreciate a whisky’s place of origin as the profile of other produce from the region grows.

“Like Margaret River, Great Southern also produces phenomenal quality wine grapes and wines, and other agricultural produce, but the Great Southern region as a geographic indicator is not really known at all within Australia, let alone overseas. It is great seeing more focus on the quality of all produce coming from these regions, not just wine and beer, but spirits, cheeses, smallgoods, and other quality produce. Our geographic indicators will become more and more valuable as designating the quality of the entire region,” he said.

WALLET-FRIENDLY WHISKIES

In the past, Australian whisky has been perceived as prohibitively expensive, especially with craft distillers being unable to match the scale and therefore the price of larger international distilleries.

“We know that Australians love drinking Australian spirits, but the artisanal nature of craft distilling means that our products, along with other incredible distillers, are often reserved for the top shelf, with international brands still dominating the market,” Withers said.

However, as the category matures, we are seeing many more budget options in the Australian whisky space. This provides an entry point for new consumers, as well as a means of retaining consumers during the current cost-of-living crisis.

“Lots of distilleries started with their single malt whisky which is higher ABV and higher in price. Those high prices have meant that it becomes hard for new consumers to take a leap of faith on a bottle over $120. Thankfully, now we are seeing more options from $75 to $100, which are more approachable, both from a palate and wallet perspective,” Sheedy said.

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

Like Champagne and Tequila, Sherry is a protected geographical indicator, meaning that it can only be made in Spain. As Australia can no longer legally produce Sherry, the fortified wine is now referred to as Apera, and Australian distilleries have increasingly begun to refer to their whiskies aged in these casks as Apera cask whiskies. However, as Sherry cask whisky is a well-known style, and there was some initial reticence by distillers to use the Apera name on their labels.

“I think most wine drinkers would have come across Apera at some point, so the newer distilleries are more comfortable using the name. But five years ago, it was very risky to call it Apera cask because of the fear that some consumers would think ‘I don’t know what that is, so I’m not going to buy it,” Maruda said.

For Morris, using the Australian names like Apera and Topaque, which was recently changed from Tokay to distinguish it from Hungarian Tokaji wines, is another way to highlight the whisky’s origin story.

“At Morris we are playing with a number of different whisky bases and an incredible library of fortified barrels such as Tawny, Apera, Topaque and Muscat to create whiskies that not only appeal to a broad range of tastes but are also all uniquely Australian,” Sergeant said.