9 minute read
APERITIFS: THE APPETITE FOR APERITIFS
The appetite for aperitifs
Aperitif spirits represent a flourishing category, and with the aperitivo drinking occasion gaining cultural relevance in Australia, Molly Nicholas explores the appeal of the category as the temperature drops.
Some of the oldest evidence of aperitif spirits dates back as far as the 1300s, but the ritualistic consumption of aperitifs was first introduced in Italy several hundred years ago, and the long-held tradition has since become widespread.
The aperitivo, often enjoyed as a pre-dinner drink, was a relatively new phenomenon in Australia up until 10 years ago. Marking the transition from the workday into the evening, the aperitivo lends itself well to Australia’s daytime oriented drinking and now represents a flourishing market.
Globally, the IWSR predicts that the spirit and wine aperitif category will grow at a five per cent volume CAGR between 2021 and 2026, with the category proving especially popular among no- and low alcohol consumers.
Enticing consumers with its ease for at home cocktail consumption, the trend has established itself in the Australian market as a habitual moment of getting together, and although the temperature is starting to drop, aperitifs are here to stay.
Category evolution
The aperitif market typically encompasses traditional European styles such as vermouth, Sherry and amaro, but Blake Vanderfield-Kramer, Regional Manager –APAC at Intrepid Spirits, says Australian made aperitifs have overhauled the market.
“When Regal Rogue debuted in 2011, it stood as the sole Australian-made brand in the market. However, today, there are over 35 brands offering 150+ styles, signifying a significant shift towards these types of products,” he says.
Longstanding traditions mean that bigger brands have often dominated market share, but Linn Philips-Johansson, Brand Owner and Director of Australian rhubarb aperitif Rhubi Mistelle, has also observed market diversification.
The good thing about the aperitif category is that it’s a very good second, or even third bottle purchase for a retailer to take advantage of.
-Adriane McDermott, Founder and CEO, Tanica
“We’re seeing a rise of independent craft in the world of aperitifs, with younger, local and more innovative brands challenging the old-school aperitif brands. Localised ingredients and lower sugar alternatives are becoming more popular and offer a great point of difference,” she said.
With Australian made aperitifs leading category innovation, Adriane McDermott, Founder and CEO of Australian native plum aperitif Tanica, sees an opportunity for premiumisation.
“What’s interesting about the category is where the growth is coming from. When we saw IWSR December 2022 data showing Premium Aperitifs above $55 were growing at +126 per cent with a distinct lack of Australian offerings, we knew we had to innovate in this space to capture the demand that was already there,” said McDermott.
Recent success of aperitif spirits has been fueled by category modernisation but changing tastes and preferences have also accelerated growth.
Data gathered by Growth Scope Australia saw the preference for ‘refreshing and revitalising’ cocktails rise 43 per cent in the last two years, while CGA data saw the Spritz climb eight places to become the seventh most popular cocktail in the USA in 2023.
The light flavours and easy-drinking nature of aperitif spirits and cocktails puts the category in a strong position to capitalise on this trend, but not without further consumer education.
Although aperitivo moments are enjoyed by the everyday Aussie with the likes of pre-dinner drinks and long lunches, Australian consumers might not traditionally associate these occasions with the term ‘aperitif’.
European appeal
Locally made aperitifs are giving the category a unique Australian flair, but Philips Johansson says retailers can still lean into European culture for marketing influence.
“In our view, retailers should look towards southern Europe for inspiration on how to create the perfect aperitivo moment and transport consumers there with beautiful instore point of sale and serve suggestions.”
And while the Australian market might reposition itself as the season changes, Marinoni says the European image still offers great appeal.
“While it’s winter in Australia, we are seeing the beauty of a European summer across our social media channels, so it’s only natural that Aussies want to replicate it at home.”
The aperitif occasion is perfect for our climate and our cultural norms. The whole idea of the aperitif is ultimately to open the palate for a meal, but it’s a real social occasion.
-Tanya Mah, Head of Marketing, Amber Beverage Australia
Tanya Mah, Head of Marketing at Amber Beverage Australia, whose portfolio includes Antica, Italicus and Pampelle, said: “The aperitif occasion is perfect for our climate and our cultural norms. The whole idea of the aperitif is ultimately to open the palate for a meal, but it’s a real social occasion.
“It’s about getting together, and it totally makes sense in Europe where this culture is embedded. The modern adaption in Australia has the same principles, but we don’t necessarily call it an aperitif.”
She says the opportunity for retailers is to help consumers to define their own interpretations of the aperitivo moment and encourage category exploration.
“Australians don’t always understand the word aperitif, so it’s really about creating sociability and connection. It’s about the same emotions and the same connection that is traditionally enjoyed in European settings but making it culturally relevant to Australians.”
Similarly, Vanderfield-Kramer agrees that future category growth hinges on the consumers understanding of the role and versatility of aperitif spirits.
“Educating consumers about the history, production methods and serving suggestions can enhance their appreciation and enjoyment.
“Opportunities lie in exploring new flavour profiles and sustainable practices to appeal to a broader audience and meet the demand for ethical consumption,” he added.
Retailer’s roadmap
While the aperitivo drinking occasion might be catching on in Australia, its instore placement is sometimes questionable. Looking at the category through the lens of a shopper, Mah says it can be difficult to navigate.
“[Aperitif spirits] often get dumped with liqueurs, and no- and low-alcohol on occasion. It’s often seen as the ‘other’ section of the store and it’s a weird mix of brands that don’t make sense from an occasion perspective, needs state perspective, or category perspective.”
Stronger categorisation is a crucial step in maximising visibility and driving sales, but Mah says there is no cookie-cutter approach.
“I would look at starting to merchandise by either needs state, occasion, or by grouping brands together. This really comes down to knowing your consumer and understanding how they’re shopping and what they’re looking for.”
When Regal Rogue debuted in 2011, it stood as the sole Australian-made brand in the market. However, today, there are over 35 brands offering 150+ styles, signifying a significant shift towards these types of products.
-Blake Vanderfield-Kramer, Regional Manager – APAC, Intrepid Spirits
Drawing on her previous experience leading spirits category development and shopper insights at Diageo, McDermott says improved navigation and accessibility will encourage cross-category sales and second bottle purchases.
“As a retailer, you really want to be providing people with total drink solutions or total cocktail solutions, not just single purchases.
“The good thing about the aperitif category is that it’s a very good second, or even third bottle purchase for a retailer to take advantage of.
“Signposting is a very common thing to help people navigate around fixtures, but shelf placement and menu placement has got to be leading people to explore this category in a way that’s not just about the traditional European-style bitter,” she said.
Winter positioning
As the aperitivo ritual embeds itself in Australian culture, it is imperative that consumers are educated about the evolving year-round consumption of aperitifs, according to Paolo Marinoni, Marketing Director for Campari Australia.
“Enjoying an aperitivo with food and friends has grown, no longer bound to certain seasons, whether it’s during sunset on a balmy afternoon or having a cosy cocktail indoors in winter, classic cocktails such as an Aperol Spritz or Negroni are always on the menu,” he says.
“Retailers can drive awareness among their consumers that aperitifs are not a seasonal category, but more occasion-based.”
Aperitifs and aperitif cocktails such as the Spritz are traditionally associated with warmer weather, but the diverse range of flavours provides retailers with the tools to cater to consumers through a change in seasons.
While it’s winter in Australia, we are seeing the beauty of a European summer across our social media channels, so it’s only natural that Aussies want to replicate it at home.
-Paolo Marinoni, Marketing Director for Campari Australia
Winter provides an opportunity to showcase seasonal flavours and ingredients while highlighting the versatility of aperitifs. For Philips-Johansson, the colder months often see consumers lean into warming spices and winter fruits.
“Winter is all about winter citrus, poached fruits and earthy, richer flavours like rhubarb. We tend to move away from the classic effervescent Spritzes to instead experiment with stirred cocktails,” she says.
“The slightly bitter tasting profile, the ease of use in at-home cocktail making and the lower sugar content all make great propositions for retailers to promote these products in-store over the winter period.”
Rhubarb Negroni
The simplicity of aperitivo cocktails makes them easy to recreate at home, and the Rhubarb Negroni is a go-to serve for the winter months. Recreated by switching Rhubi as a substitute for any of the three ingredients in a classic Negroni, Philips-Johansson’s favourite interpretation features Australian gin and nuanced bitter vermouth.
Ingredients:
25ml Four Pillars Gin
25ml Rhubi Mistelle
25ml Red vermouth
Directions:
1. Add all ingredients to a carafe or mixing glass with ice and stir
2. Add fresh ice to a tumbler and strain cocktail over the ice
3. Garnish with an orange wedge
