IHA Fall/Winter 2023 by The International Hair Authority

LIFESTYLE

RESEARCH

EDUCATION

The Changing Face of Aging

Evolution of Barbers

Hair Helps You Feel

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Pg. 08

Pg. 12

MEDICAL The Science of Scalp Health

International Hair Authority Volume 24 No 85

The Profesional Publication of Hair Replacement & Restoration

Pg. 22

Fall/Winter 2023

Industry Invests in Exosomes

A January 2023 systematic review identified 16 studies, mostly preclinical, demonstrating the potential of exosomes, especially from adipose stem cells (ADSCs), to stimulate hair growth. “Exosomes activate signaling pathways that drive hair follicle transition from resting (telogen) to active growth (anagen) phases,” states Dr. Ada Jones, lead researcher at the Yale Hair Regeneration Lab. Over 45 biotech companies focus on exosome research and commercialization, with total investments exceeding $500 million. Industry confidence is further underscored by Jeff Bezos’ recent $3 billion investment in Altos Labs, emphasizing the transformative potential of exosomes in hair care.

Breakthrough in Alopecia Areata Treatment In a remarkable leap forward for those grappling with alopecia areata, a form of hair loss that can be profoundly distressing, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved two new treatments, Ritlecitinib and Baricitinib, both of which are Janus kinase (JAK) inhibitors. This marks a significant milestone in the treatment of a condition that had limited effective options. Researchers, including Dr. Brett King and Dr. Brittany Craiglow from Yale University, have published their findings in a supplement to the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Their study reveals that JAK inhibitors effectively reduce the inflammation associated with alopecia areata, thereby rebalancing the immune system.

Revolutionary Technique in Baldness Cure: Lab-Grown Hair Follicles Researchers from Yokohama National University in Japan have made a groundbreaking discovery in the fight against baldness. They have successfully grown fully mature hair follicles in the lab, a development that could signal a cure for baldness on the horizon. The team, led by assistant professor Tatsuto Kageyama, used skin organoids to create these follicles, achieving nearly 100% efficiency in developing hair shafts from embryonic cells. The follicles, which reached a mature stage of about three millimeters in length after 23 days, also displayed improved hair follicle color due to the addition of a melanin-boosting drug. This research not only represents a major leap in baldness treatment but also in understanding the mechanisms of hair follicle morphogenesis. The success of this study holds promise for the millions affected by hair loss worldwide.

Peach Fuzz: Pantone’s Fresh Pick for Color of the Year! In a delightful twist of hues, Pantone has announced its much-anticipated Color of the Year - ‘Peach Fuzz’. This warm, playful shade radiates comfort and positivity, embodying a sense of optimism and joy. With its soft, delicate tones, Peach Fuzz is a versatile color that complements various design palettes, making it a perfect choice for fashion, salon decor, and graphic design trends. Cosmetologists and color enthusiasts, get ready to embrace the charming and spirited vibe of Peach Fuzz in your upcoming projects!

2 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023

Editorial

Your Go-To Source for Expertise and Insight Welcome to International Hair Authority, a publication that has been the backbone of the hair management industry since our inception as The National Hair Journal in 1997. We are celebrated for our commitment to providing reliable content to a broad spectrum of hair care professionals, from pioneering hair transplant surgeons to dynamic salon owners across the United States. Our journey from a niche management resource to a comprehensive guide for all facets of hair loss has broadened our reach, enabling us to connect with and assist an even wider audience, including individuals facing hair loss challenges. Our editorial ethos blends authoritative reporting with engaging narratives, focusing on groundbreaking developments in hair replacement, regrowth, and restoration. With both digital and print formats, we ensure our content is always within your reach, offering insights that are as accessible as they are important.

therapies are at the forefront. Our coverage delves into how integrating different treatments, like pharmaceuticals with laser therapy or PRP with hair transplant surgery, is revolutionizing patient outcomes. These pioneering approaches, often explored in the clinical setting, are paving the way for new, FDA-approved treatments. Our Focus: Beyond Styling, Into the Future of Hair Care

While styling and cosmetology are important, our focus lies in the realms of hair restoration and innovative treatments. We aim to provide a unique perspective, offering insights into the latest products and technologies revolutionizing hair care. Your input is crucial in shaping our content, so we encourage you to reach out with topics or experts you’re curious about. What’s New in 2024

We’re enhancing our subscription options to deliver content in the most convenient formats for you. Whether you prefer the traditional magazine layout or digital articles optimized for web browsing, we’ve got you covered. Special Offers: Start Your Journey with Us

1. Try our 3-month free trial and gain unlimited online access along with full access to our extensive digital archives. 2. Our Standard Subscription at just $1/month or $10/year offers comprehensive digital access and exclusive content.

At International Hair Authority, we’re more than a publication; we are your trusted partner in the journey towards advanced hair management and informed decisionmaking.

3. The Professional Subscription, tailored for industry experts, offers premium content, networking opportunities, and more for just $5/month or $50/year.

Discover the Latest in Hair Loss Research and Innovation

4. A money-back guarantee ensuring your complete satisfaction.

In our dedicated Trichology Section, we offer an exclusive look into the latest breakthroughs in hair loss research. We’ve recently shone a spotlight on Exosomes, revealing their vital role in cellular communication and their emerging potential in treating hair loss.

Chris Webb

Our in-depth analysis, complemented by insights from leading experts, sheds light on these exciting developments, making them relevant and accessible to both industry professionals and individuals seeking solutions. The Power of Combination Therapies The world of hair management is evolving, and combination

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4 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023

Unveiling America’s Changing

Perspective on Aging

International Hair Authority is delighted to collaborate with StyleSeat to present a summary of their report that delves into the perceptions and attitudes surrounding aging in the United States. This report sheds light on the changing landscape of beauty and aging, highlighting the states that are rewriting the rules on aging gracefully. The Changing Face of Aging In a society that idolizes youth, growing older can often feel like swimming against the tide. Many aging citizens feel inclined to hide their grays or cover up their dark spots with makeup, but a rising trend sug-

gests that more people are embracing their silver strands and opting for a more natural look.

Statewide Attitudes Towards Aging StyleSeat conducted a survey of over 2,000 Americans to examine these perceptions and experiences with getting older. Their findings reveal that in certain regions of the United States, individuals are not only accepting but also celebrating the process of aging. From redefining beauty standards with gray hair and wrinkles to celebrating an evolving personal style, residents of specific states are rewriting the rules on aging. Here are the key findings:

Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 5 •

Iowa, Georgia, and Indiana are the states that embrace aging the most.

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Michigan, Maine, and Alabama are the states where people are most hesitant to embrace aging.

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When it comes to grays, 2 in 5 individuals embrace them and forego dyes to cover them up.

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By not using makeup to cover signs of aging, 54% embrace their aging skin.

The prospect of growing older and exhibiting signs of aging is a concept that carries varying degrees of acceptance across the U.S. population. The survey revealed that 63% of Americans are receptive to the idea of aging and the changes it brings to their appearance.

Men vs. Women: A Gendered Perspective However, a deeper analysis of the data indicates differences in societal perceptions and pressures based on gender. Men, at 70%, seem more comfortable with the aging process than women, with only 57% of women fully embracing it. This disparity highlights the beauty standards that women encounter, which emphasize youthful looks over the natural aging process. To capture these insights, the state-by-state survey posed a series of questions to respondents, such as: ‘If you have gray hair, do you dye it to cover it up?’; ‘Have you ever undergone cosmetic surgery to retain a youthful appearance?’; and ‘How do you feel about the idea of aging and looking older?’ Based on the responses to these queries, a unique perspective on regional differences in attitudes towards aging emerges.

The Confidence of Natural Beauty A significant 73% of Americans believe that older individuals possess beauty comparable to their younger counterparts. This belief is shared across different age groups, with Gen Z leading at 84%, followed closely by millennials (73%), Gen X (72%), and boomers (67%). Gender dynamics also play a role, as 81% of women acknowledge the beauty in older individuals, compared to 65% of men who share the sentiment. When we look at the states, Iowa stands out as a beacon for age-positivity. With a score of 91.14, a strong 68% of residents in Iowa embrace the journey of aging, with 70% celebrating the beauty of aging skin. Georgia (90.83) stands out with its residents ranking 3rd out of 40 states for embracing gray hair (49%) and over half (53%) feeling positive about aging skin. Indiana (90.19) has an open-minded stance with a significant 35% of its population comfortable seeing older individuals don youthful attire. Travel northwest, and only 12% of Minnesotans (89.88) opt for younger hairstyles, showing that they don’t feel the need to hide their age with youthful-looking coifs. Finally, Kansas (89.23) takes the crown when it comes to age acceptance. A whopping 80% of people in this state express comfort with the idea of growing and looking older.

6 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 Not all states share the same enthusiasm for embracing aging gracefully. Michigan tops the list of states least welcoming to their golden years. With a score of 75.65, Michigan is joined by Maine (79.56), Alabama (79.77), Florida (80.19), and Nevada (80.33).

The Rise of the Silver Strand Movement Gray hair, a symbol of the passage of time, is being embraced by an increasing number of Americans. Two out of every five Americans who have gray hair choose not to hide it behind hair dyes, letting their grays shine through.

Michigan’s hesitancy towards aging is evident in several aspects: only 22% of its residents are willing to embrace gray hair. Moreover, half (50%) of its population express reluctance at the idea of aging and looking older. And following closely behind Florida, Michigan has one of the highest rates of cosmetic procedures, indicating a collective pursuit of a youthful facade. In Maine, 27% of residents opt for ‘younger’ hairstyles, one of the highest percentages across states, significantly contributing to its overall lower score for embracing aging. Alabama paints a mixed picture. Less than two-fifths (39%) of Alabamians are content with gray hair, and with just 51% feeling positive about aging skin, it occupies the 26th spot out of 40 states in this category. Florida boasts the highest number of residents who have undergone cosmetic procedures in a bid to retain their youthfulness. Furthermore, a mere 53% of Floridians report being comfortable with the aspect of aging and the appearance changes it brings. Lastly, the glitz and glamor of Nevada might not extend to gray hair or aging skin. Only half (50%) of its residents appreciate the beauty of aging skin, and it ranks low (38/40) for accepting gray hair, with a modest 30% in agreement.

However, a gender divide is evident: Men, at 54%, are more than twice as likely as women (25%) to celebrate their silver strands. To appear younger, 1 in 5 Americans alters their hairstyle. Looking deeper into gender specifics, 24% of women opt for these youthful hairdos compared to 17% of men, once again highlighting the gender-based beauty pressures. In a surprising twist, nearly a tenth of Americans have intentionally dyed their hair gray as a style choice even before time could turn it that shade. Leading this trend are the boomers

Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 7 with 12%, followed closely by Gen X at 10%, while millennials and Gen Z are neck and neck at 7%. Regionally, some states stand out for embracing gray hair. Virginia leads the pack at 53.2%, followed by South Carolina (52.1%), Georgia (49.0%), Pennsylvania (47.1%), and Iowa (46.8%).

Natural Skin: A New Standard Across the U.S., 54% of Americans choose authenticity over concealment, opting not to mask aging signs like wrinkles and dark spots with makeup. Boomers are at the forefront with 68% relishing their natural skin, followed by Gen X (62%), millennials (53%), and Gen Z (22%). A deeper look into gender dynamics reveals that men, at a striking 73%, are more than twice as likely as women (35%) to flaunt their aging skin. This difference once again sheds light on the beauty standards faced by women. Regionally, the state championing natural skin is led by Iowa with a commendable 70.2%. Following closely are Colorado (66.0%), Kentucky (63.3%), Washington (62.7%), and Tennessee (61.5%).

In a delightful twist of fashion trends, the age-old adage, ‘what’s old is new again,’ has never been truer. Methodology: In August 2023, StyleSeat surveyed 2,006 Americans about their perceptions and experiences with getting older. Respondents ranged in age from 18 to 76 years old and were 49% female, 49% male, and 2% nonbinary. States excluded due to insufficient data: Alaska, Delaware, Hawaii, Montana, New Hampshire, North Dakota, Rhode Island, South Dakota, Vermont, and Wyoming.

IHA

Cosmoprof Celebrates 20th Anniversary with Record-Breaking Attendance Las Vegas, NV - Cosmoprof North America concluded its 20th-anniversary at the Las Vegas Convention Center with a 20% surge in attendance compared to the previous year. The event saw thousands of retailers, distributors, investors, media representatives, and over 1,100 beauty brands coming together to explore exciting product launches, expand their business networks, and forge new collaboration opportunities. The three-day event attracted participants and exhibitors from 108 countries, showcasing the enduring vitality and global reach of the beauty industry.

IHA

8 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023

The Fascinating Evolution of

From Surgeons to Stylists

contributors to community health and wellbeing in an era before specialized medicine.

For thousands of years, barbers have honed their craft, adapting to meet the diverse needs of the times. Their story is one of versatility and resilience, spanning pivotal shifts in society, technology, and culture. More than just hairdressers, barbers have been surgeons, social figures, and keepers of tradition. Their captivating past reveals surprising insights into the changing tides of history. The Ancient Origins of Barbers The first barbers emerged over 5,000 years ago in ancient Mesopotamia, where they served as groomers, hairdressers, and medical practitioners. These multifaceted figures cut hair, shaved beards, performed minor surgeries and even drained blood through the process of bloodletting. Their diverse skills, including rudimentary dentistry, made barbers vital

In ancient Egypt around 3,100 BCE, barbers continued to embrace dual roles. They crafted elaborate hairstyles and wigs for Egyptian elites while also providing surgical services and dental care. Their expertise in grooming and healing highlighted their status in Egyptian society. Barbers were among the few trusted with razors and knives for shaving, haircutting, and procedures.

The Rise Of Barber-Surgeons In Medival Europe During the medieval period, barbers became more specialized, giving rise to “barber-surgeons.” As medical knowledge advanced, these practitioners conducted an array of procedures from tooth extractions to bloodletting and minor surgeries. The iconic red and white barber pole emerged as a symbolic representation of their two-pronged work - red for surgery and white for barbering services. With the advent of the Renaissance across Europe, formal barber-surgeon guilds emerged to regulate training and practices. These exclusive professional bodies, dominated by men,

Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 9

from prominent physician guilds.

aimed to standardize barber-surgeons’ expertise through stringent requirements and examinations. Barber-surgeons advanced medical knowledge by contributing to anatomical studies and surgical innovations. However, they eventually faced exclusions

From Medical Practitioners to Grooming Specialists By the 18th century, medicine and grooming became clearly delineated fields. While physicians strove for recognition as a distinct, elite profession, barbers focused increasingly on styling services - haircuts, shaves, wig-work, and beard grooming. As doctors dismissed their medical role, barbers found a niche as prominent figures in the grooming industry.

culine spaces where men could freely discuss uncouth topics if no women were present. As barbering became a licensed profession, women were explicitly prohibited from obtaining licenses in many regions. Male-dominated licensing boards enforced women’s exclusion from the industry through discriminatory regulations. Some states even enacted laws barring women from barbering. Cultural stereotypes also influenced restrictions against female barbers. Women were viewed as lacking the physical strength and disposition for barber work. Instead, they were steered towards auxiliary grooming trades viewed as better aligned with female roles, like hairdressing and cosmetology.

Breaking The Barber Shop Barrier - Women’s Historical Struggle For Inclusion Through decades of advocacy, female barbers gradually overcame these obstacles. Laws prohibiting women from cutting men’s hair were repealed by the 1970s. Today, women can be licensed as barbers in all 50 states and work freely in the industry. The iconic barber pole is no longer solely a symbol of the male domain. However, lingering stigma meant some states required separate licensing for “barbers” versus “hairdressers” until remarkably recently.

The Status Today Based on current licensing laws in the United States, women face no restrictions on calling themselves barbers:

The Heyday Of Barbershops In The 20th Century The 20th century witnessed the golden age of barbershops. With iconic patrons like Elvis Presley and James Dean, they came to represent tradition and nostalgia in American communities. The classic barber pole proudly displayed their rich history. Movies and pop culture further cemented the barbershop as a hub of masculine culture.

Barbering: a Male-Dominated Field For centuries, barbering was an exclusively male profession. Women faced immense challenges attempting to cut men’s hair due to ingrained societal norms and legal barriers. Rigid gender roles portrayed barbering as a “man’s job” unsuitable for women. Cutting men’s hair was seen as improper for females based on notions of modesty. Barber shops were also deemed mas-

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All 50 states allow women to obtain barber licenses and practice barbering on clients of any gender. Discriminatory licensing regulations have been repealed over the past few decades.

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There are no longer any separate licensing categories for “barbers” versus “hairdressers” based on gender. Unified licensing allows women to obtain barber licenses just like men.

10 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 •

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Women can legally use the occupational title “barber” and market their services as barbering. Some choose to use titles like “hairstylist” or “stylist” instead for branding purposes, but “barber” is not off limits.

professionals. Barbers may avoid these to stay within their lane. •

The national organization Associated Master Barbers and Beauticians of America advocates for and represents female barbers in the industry.

Liability concerns - Applying chemical treatments or making claims about hair restoration effectiveness could raise legal risks for barbershops. They may prefer not to take on this liability.

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Female barbers are becoming more visible and changing public perceptions through high-profile media coverage and events like international women’s barber competitions.

Stigma and embarrassment - Discussing hair loss concerns can be an uncomfortable or sensitive topic for clients. Barbers may opt not to initiate these conversations and lack the space to have confidential consultations.

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However, residual stigma and stereotypes persist in some areas. Women entering barbering may still face bias and presumptions about their skills and abilities.

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Overall, the barbering field is now fully open to women seeking professional careers as barbers in the United States. Legal barriers have been overturned, allowing women equal professional status, licensing, and rights to the “barber” title and identity.

The Barber Renaissance Today, traditional barbershops are experiencing a revival as people seek out their vintage atmosphere. The return of time-honored techniques like straight razor shaves reflects a longing for authenticity and tradition. Though their role has evolved dramatically over time, barbers remain enduring symbols of community, skill, and service. Their versatility has allowed them to adapt and thrive through the ages.

Lack of demand - If existing clients aren’t asking for hair loss services, barbers have little motivation to expand their offerings proactively. However, some modern barbershops are beginning to offer solutions like scalp treatments, laser therapies, and hair replacement systems to meet consumer demand. However, this requires specialized training and partnerships with hair restoration companies support this expansion into hair loss services.

Hair Loss: An Untapped Opportunity Historically, barbers have focused on haircutting and styling services rather than treating hair loss. Scope of practice limitations, inadequate training, legal risks, profitability concerns, and social stigma may explain this oversight. However, barbers interact regularly with clients experiencing thinning hair or balding. Some shops are starting to offer solutions like scalp treatments, laser therapies, and hair replacement systems.

BALDING CLIENTS - WHY AREN’T BARBERS OFFERING HAIR REPLACEMENT SERVICES? Simply put, it was never part of their tradition. • •

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Scope of practice - Cutting, styling, and grooming hair has been the primary focus for barbers. Hair loss treatments may be viewed as outside their regular scope. Lack of training - Most barber training programs do not include substantial education on the causes, treatments, and management of hair loss. This limits barbers’ knowledge. Medical association - Some hair loss treatments, like prescription medications, are closely associated with medical

With proper training and partnerships, barbers could leverage their client relationships and haircare expertise to provide much-needed hair restoration services. This presents an immense yet untapped business opportunity for modern barbers to expand their skillset and better serve the needs of clients struggling with hair loss. IHA

Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 11

Vivandi Miracle Fruit Oil

A Revolutionary Hair Care Product

Introduction Vivandi Miracle Fruit Oil is a new hair oil that claims to go “beyond bond builders” in repairing and strengthening damaged hair through a natural process called “force multiplication.” It contains nutrient-rich Miracle Fruit Seed Oil extracted from the seeds of the exotic Miracle Fruit using an expensive state of the art supercritical CO2 extraction process to maintain maximum potency and nutrient levels.

The Miracle Fruit The key ingredient is oil derived from the Miracle Fruit, which contains a unique protein called Miraculin that changes tastebuds to make sour foods taste sweet. While the Miraculin itself is not used in the oil, the seeds, which are harvested in a quality-controlled farm, undergo special supercritical extraction to obtain highly purified amounts of active phytochemicals and nutrients not found in other hair oils, including unique phytosterols and triterpenes like alpha/beta amyrin. The oil is one of the very few highly saturated hydrophobic oils and is very similar in composition to sebaceous oil with its large amounts of palmitic acid.

Supercritical Extraction Method Unlike traditional extraction methods exposing ingredients to heat, air, and chemicals, supercritical CO2 extraction keeps the oil in its purest most natural and active form. No heat, light, or oxygen touches the oil at any point. This prevents degradation over time from oxygen, heat, and light exposure that can quickly turn oils rancid and inactive. The supercritical process also allows selective purification, extraction, and concentration of the most beneficial phytonutrients.

Clinically Proven Results The Miracle Fruit Seed Oil underwent rigorous third-party clinical testing (randomized, double-blind, placebo controlled) over an 8-month period using advanced trichometry technology that precisely measures quantitative hair quality

metrics like hair density, diameter, breakage rates, and hair mass index. The results published in a peer-reviewed major dermatology journal (Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology) showed the Miracle Fruit Oil strengthened hair three times more than argan oil, reduced hair loss from breakage by more than 60%, increased the healthy hair index (unbroken hairs) by 200%, and fully repaired split ends.

How It Repairs Hair Miracle Fruit Oil uniquely leverages hydrophobic interactions along keratin chains in a process called “force multiplication” to dramatically reinforce and repair hair’s internal structure in a way synthetic bond builders cannot replicate without compromising flexibility. It works holistically to restore hairs’ natural youthful strength instead of just patching cracks in the foundation.

Advanced Packaging The product comes in a specially engineered airless pump bottle designed to prevent oxygen and light from degrading the oil over time. The red tinted opaque material blocks light while the airless vacuum seal prevents air exposure inside. This keeps the oil fresher longer compared to oils sold in clear containers exposed to air and sunlight during use. The airless packaging also enables full use of the product without the waste of a traditional bottle.

The Bottom Line With a unique and patented Miracle Fruit Seed Oil, natural organic ingredients, medical-grade testing confirming tangible results, a commitment to quality control from tree to bottle, and advanced packaging technology to maintain integrity, Vivandi Miracle Fruit Oil aims to establish a new standard for premium professional hair care backed by scientists at major USA universities (University of Florida and University of Massachusetts Amherst). IHA

12 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023

How Your Hair

Helps You Feel

The Hidden Touch Receptors of Hair Follicles

Scientists Uncover Hidden Sense of Touch in Human Hair Follicles A pioneering new study reveals that human hair follicles have a previously unknown ability to detect light touch. The breakthrough discovery was made by researchers at Imperial College London and published in the journal Science Advances. Advanced Techniques Reveal Hair Follicle’s Sensory Ability The researchers utilized cutting-edge techniques to uncover this hidden sensory feature. They performed RNA sequencing on cells from the outer root sheath (ORS) of hair follicles. This revealed the ORS cells contain a high concentration of touch-sensitive receptors called piezo2 – even more than skin cells.

Specialized Lab Tests Confirm Direct Sensory Role To confirm the hair follicle cells can directly sense touch, the scientists conducted specialized lab tests. They cultured human ORS cells together with sensory neuron cells from mice. When the ORS cells were gently stimulated with movement, the nearby sensory neurons activated in response – confirming the direct sensory interaction.

Lead Scientist Hailed as Hair Follicle Pioneer The breakthrough study was led by Dr. Claire Higgins, a world-renowned bioengineer at Imperial College London. She conducted pioneering Ph.D. research on using stem cells to bioengineer hair follicles and skin. Dr. Higgins was part of the first team to successfully grow bioengineered human hair follicles.

Neurotransmitter Release Reveals Unique Mechanism When the ORS cells were stimulated, they released the neurotransmitters serotonin and histamine. In contrast, skin cells primarily release histamine when stimulated. This suggests the hair follicle has a unique, previously unknown mechanism for processing touch sensations.

Major Implications for Understanding Hair Biology This discovery dramatically expands scientific understanding of the complexity of the hair follicle. It establishes hair follicles have their own specialized touch reception abilities beyond just nerve endings in skin. The researchers believe further study of this hidden sensory power could uncover deeper insights into hair biology.

Potential Applications for Skin and Hair Research Since histamine is involved in inflammatory skin conditions like eczema, the team’s findings about hair follicles releasing histamine could drive new directions in skin disorder research. Uncovering the nuances of skin and hair follicle touch reception could lead to novel treatments including hair loss. IHA

Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 13

14 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023

Trichology Uncovering the Roots New Discoveries in the Science of Hair Growth

By Iain Sallis, Trychologist Advancing our understanding of the intricate biological processes that lead to hair loss has unlocked new possibilities for treatments. This article explores some of the most promising areas of research.

A 2019 study analyzed scalp biopsies from 30 male pattern baldness patients compared to 10 healthy controls. Using immunohistochemical staining, levels of lymphocytes, macrophages, mast cells, and neutrophils were evaluated.

Scalp Inflammation and Fibrosis

In the baldness group, CD3+ and CD68+ cell densities were increased approximately 3-fold compared to controls, indicating significantly higher inflammation (Zhang et al, Skin Pharmacol Physiol, 2019).

Inflammation has long been suspected as a contributor to hair loss. Researchers are now quantifying the presence of inflammatory cells and fibrotic scarring in balding scalp tissue.

Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 15 A separate 2020 study used picrosirius red staining on scalp biopsies to assess collagen density, a marker of fibrosis. Samples from 10 patients with androgenetic alopecia had collagen levels nearly double that of 10 controls. Further, collagen accumulated perifollicularly implying the scarring constricts hair follicles (Goren et al, J Invest Dermatol, 2020). Anti-inflammatory treatments like steroid injections have shown promise in small studies. One single-arm trial administered injections of the steroid beclomethasone dipropionate biweekly for 6 weeks. At conclusion, collagen levels decreased by 8% indicating reduced fibrosis. Average hair counts increased by 35% (Clin Exp Derm, 2021). Larger randomized controlled trials are needed. “I suspect inflammation and fibrosis accelerate miniaturization of follicles leading to hair loss. Anti-inflammatory medications may help prolong anagen growth phase,” commented Dr. Sara Wasserman of Strand Clinical Research. “However, we have much more to uncover about the complex interplay between hormones, genetics, and these scarring processes.”

Growth Factors to Reawaken Follicles Growth factors are cell signaling proteins that control proliferation, maturation, and longevity. Applying combinations of growth factors to stimulate dormant follicles shows potential. A 2022 study used immunohistochemistry to analyze levels of three critical growth factors - VEGF, IGF, and KGF - in balding versus non-balding scalp samples from 10 patients. Expression of all three decreased by 2-3-fold in balding regions, implying activating these factors could encourage regrowth (Pandzic et al, Biomedicines, 2022). Several human trials already demonstrate efficacy of growth factors in treating pattern baldness. One placebo-controlled study administered a stem cell conditioned medium containing various growth factors. Patients applied the medium to balding areas twice daily for 16 weeks. Hair counts increased 37% on average in treatment group versus 3% in placebo (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2021).

to drive follicles back into anagen phase even after prolonged telogen dormancy,” explained Dr. Sara Gomez, hair restoration surgeon.

Scalp Micropigmentation Scalp micropigmentation (SMP) involves injecting tiny dots of biocompatible pigment into scalp skin mimicking natural hair follicles. Though not a true hair regrowth therapy, SMP optically increases hair density. In a recent retrospective multicenter study, investigator-assessed photographs found SMP increased scalp coverage by an average of 87% across over 2,000 patients. Further, 97% of subjects rated satisfaction with results as satisfying, very satisfying, or extremely satisfying (Cutis, 2021). Interestingly, 60% of female respondents said SMP allowed them to fully forego wigs or hair pieces. SMP requires only 2-4 sessions for full scalp treatment and touch ups can sustain the effect for decades. Minor adverse effects like bleeding and transient redness typically resolve quickly. “For the right candidates, SMP produces natural looking results that boost hair density and confidence,” said Joe Maxson, SMP specialist at Top Hair Restoration. “It is an excellent option on its own or can augment hair transplantation.” Though currently classified as a cosmetic tattoo, SMP may have therapeutic benefits in reducing psychological stress of hair loss. More research could better position SMP as a medical treatment option.

Genetics and Hair Loss Subtypes Androgenetic alopecia is the most common hair loss condition. But researchers are working to understand rarer genetic causes and subtypes. A 2021 genome-wide association study identified 4 mutations in the COL25A1 gene associated with female pattern hair loss (J Invest Dermatol, 2021). COL25A1 encodes collagen XXV specifically expressed in the inner and outer root sheaths of follicles. Variants may contribute to structural changes that spur hair miniaturization.

Researchers are also experimenting with controlled release mechanisms like microneedle patches, liposomes, and microspheres to provide sustained delivery of growth factors. A polymer film containing keratinocyte and fibroblast growth factors implanted in mice led to nearly full hair regrowth in shaved areas (Journal of Biomedical Materials Research Part B: Applied Biomaterials, 2022).

Additionally, scientists are studying genetic drivers of alopecia areata patchy hair loss. Genome sequencing has uncovered similarities between alopecia areata and autoimmune disorders like rheumatoid arthritis and celiac disease (BMC Med Genomics, 2020). This reveals new avenues for treating alopecia areata via established therapies for these related conditions.

“While substantial challenges remain for stabilized delivery in humans, growth factors are emerging as promising therapy

While progress continues incrementally, scientists remain hopeful. “Hair restoration is immensely complicated, but by elucidat-

ing genetic and cellular nuances distinguishing hair loss subtypes, we can develop more targeted treatments,” commented Dr. Maryanne Senna, dermatologist at Massachusetts General Hospital.

The Future of Hair Loss Science Propelling hair science into the future are powerful emerging technologies. For example, some labs are now using cloning methods to multiply dermal papilla cells involved in follicle generation. Others are editing genes with CRISPR to alter hair growth pathways. Dr. Isao Arai’s team at Riken Laboratories in Japan takes a highly futuristic approach. “We are developing cybernics - bioengineered fusions of organism and machine - to regenerate follicles on demand. Synthetic peptide complexes activate signaling to grow new hairs.” This cybernetic system has successfully cultivated new follicles in lab mice (EMBO Mol Med, 2021), with human trials planned in coming years. Machine learning algorithms can also help predict hair loss progression and treatment outcomes by detecting patterns in complex clinical data. AI-guided laser treatments show promise in early testing (J Invest Dermatol, 2022). While society has long accepted hair loss as inevitable, scientists reject that notion. “Hair regeneration is absolutely an attainable goal,” said Dr. Arai. Collaborations between biologists, geneticists, engineers, and computational experts draw a future where hair loss becomes obsolete. For those experiencing hair thinning and shedding today, take heart knowing the curtain has not closed on solutions. Hair restoration is an immensely intricate puzzle - but with so many brilliant minds now collaborating across diverse disciplines, the final picture is coming into view. Each new finding inches us towards a world where no one has to suffer the psychological burden of hair loss again. IHA

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Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 17

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18 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023

Trichology

FDA Updates Cosmetic Reporting Guidelines

What Hair Care Pros Need to Know

In the fast-paced world of hair care, it’s crucial to stay updated on regulations that affect your business. The FDA recently made some changes to cosmetic product reporting guidelines, and as a hair care professional, it’s important to understand how these updates impact you and your clients. Understanding the FDA’s Changes The FDA’s updates stem from a mandate called MoCRA, which emphasizes the need to report serious issues or adverse effects related to cosmetic products. For hair care professionals, this means paying attention to any problems your clients might experience when using cosmetic hair care products, such as severe skin reactions or allergies.

The Reporting Tool: MedWatch Form 3500A To comply with the FDA’s guidelines, you’ll need to familiarize yourself with the “MedWatch Form 3500A.” This form is your go-to resource for documenting and reporting any serious adverse events. It’s designed to make the reporting process structured and straightforward.

Easy Ways to Submit Reports The FDA has simplified the reporting process by offering two submission methods: - Electronic Submission via Email: Send your reports electronically for a quick and efficient process.

Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 19 - Paper Submission via Mail: If you prefer the traditional route, you can submit reports by mail to the FDA’s designated address.

What’s New in the Latest Update The FDA’s latest update focuses on making the instructions clearer and easier to follow. This is great news for professionals in the hair care industry who want to ensure compliance.

Implications for Hair Care Professionals So, how do these FDA guidelines affect you and your business? Hair care product manufacturers, distributors, and professionals like yourself have a crucial role to play in safeguarding consumers and maintaining product safety. It’s essential to stay vigilant and report any issues promptly.

Prioritizing Compliance and Consumer Safety In an industry where trust is paramount, compliance is key. By adhering to the FDA’s guidelines and promptly reporting adverse events, you contribute to consumer safety and the overall credibility of the hair care sector.

Your Responsibility in Ensuring Safe Products In 2023, the FDA was notably active, with a specific focus on the cosmetic and personal care industry, implementing a series of significant changes and initiatives. Throughout the year, the agency addressed various concerns and updated regulations to enhance consumer safety and transparency. Notable examples include the introduction of “FDA Issues New Sunscreen Regulations” in March 2023, aimed at improving the safety and effectiveness of sunscreens. In July 2023, they rolled out “New Labeling Requirements for Skin Care Products,” which aimed to provide consumers with more transparent information about skincare products. in October 2023, the FDA took decisive action with “FDA Takes Action on Harmful Hair Straightening Products,” responding to safety concerns associated with specific hair straightening products to protect consumers. These efforts underscore the FDA’s commitment to upholding safety standards and ensuring product quality within the cosmetic and personal care industry. In conclusion, the FDA’s updates are all about ensuring the safety of cosmetic products, including those used in hair care. As a hair care professional, you have a significant role in upholding these safety standards and building trust with your clients. So please keep an eye out for any adverse effects from the products you use or sell to your clients. Your commitment to safety and professionalism is the key to your success in the hair care industry. And check your copy of Hair Authority.to keep up to date about the latest regulations and resources on how to navigate these changes,

Optimized for SEO: Ensure that your website URL is hyperlinked to direct readers to your website for additional information and resources. Keywords and key phrases that can help improve SEO 1. FDA cosmetic reporting guidelines 2. Hair care professionals 3. Cosmetic product safety 4. MoCRA mandate 5. MedWatch Form 3500A 6. Adverse event reporting 7. Hair care industry regulations 8. Product safety compliance 11. Cosmetic adverse events 12. FDA updates in 2023 16. Hair straightening product safety 19. Hair care product quality 20. Hair care industry best practices IHA

20 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023

Trichology

The Hidden Might of Human Hair Unveiling the Secret Behind Its Remarkable Strength Recent studies have highlighted the extraordinary strength and potential applications of human hair, uncovering details that underscore its unique properties. These findings are a culmination of various research efforts, each adding to our understanding of human hair’s robustness. Strength and Structure of Human Hair Extensive research by the University of California San Diego has underscored the remarkable strength of human hair. It has a steel-like strength-to-weight ratio and can stretch up to one and a half times its original length without breaking. This durability is attributed to its structure, which includes a cortex with parallel fibrils and an amorphous matrix. When stretched, the alpha helix chains in the cortex fibrils transform into beta sheets, a partially reversible process. Notably, human hair’s tensile strength ranges between 200–260 MPa, comparable to steel[10†source][26†source][44†source].

Key Factors in Hair’s Strength Surprisingly, the study also revealed that thin hairs are stronger than thick hairs, capable of enduring greater tension before snapping. This discovery, made by testing hairs from various mammals, including humans, could aid the design of bio-inspired materials. Human hair’s hierarchical structure, consisting of keratin fibers linked by chemical bonds, contributes to its strength. It has a tensile strength of around 200–260 MP and can stretch up to 40% before breaking[36†source][44†source. Hair strength is also influenced by external factors such as humidity and temperature. At higher humidity levels, hair can endure 70-80% deformation, compared to only 50% in dry conditions. This is thanks to water that softens the hair by entering the matrix and breaking down sulfur bonds.

However, at temperatures above 60°C, hair suffers permanent damage and breaks more easily under lower stress and strain[26†source].

Ongoing Research and Potential Applications The insights from these studies could have implications for developing new materials. If synthetic materials could replicate hair’s structure, they could be used in strong, lightweight applications like durable clothing, body armor, ropes, and filaments. Of course, The cosmetic industry is also leveraging these findings for advanced hair care products. One example is research that is currently ongoing to understand how water influences hair behavior, with a particular focus on how washing affects its return to its original shape[26†source][36†source}. Another project is looking at applying K31 to chemically damaged hair and it has shown it can double its mechanical strength and enhance elasticity. These findings could lead to improved treatments for hair damage and health[42†source].

Potential Applications of Hair-Inspired Material:

The insights gained from these studies have significant implications for developing new materials. For example, if synthetic materials could mimic the hierarchical structure of hair, they could be used in strong, lightweight applications ranging from body armor, rescue ropes, aerospace, and personal care products. In summary, the structural and material properties of human hair have made it a focal point in science, leading to innovative applications and continued efforts to replicate its characteristics in synthetic materials. The ongoing research not only deepens our understanding of hair’s natural strength but also opens doors to future technological advancements. IHA

Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 21

The Perils of Using Ai Spot the duplicate

Always check T (twice) before you post…

IHA

Mielle Partners with WNBA Another Milestone for Textured Hair Care Mielle, a hair care brand under the P&G umbrella, has announced a pioneering role as the Women’s National Basketball Association’s (WNBA) inaugural textured hair care sponsor. This partnership underscores their commitment to representation and marks a notable step for people with textured hair. The official commencement of this partnership took place during the WNBA’s All-Star Game in Las Vegas, where Mielle also took on an associate sponsorship role in the league’s interactive fan festival, WNBA Live. The collaboration between Mielle and the WNBA is not confined to special events. Mielle plans to launch a WN-

BA-themed marketing campaign and retail programs with a special focus on textured hair care. In addition, the brand will produce and promote content across the WNBA’s digital platforms, including social media, the WNBA app, and its official website. Omar Goff, President at Mielle, affirmed the brand’s dedication to offering athletes products that let them confidently embrace their natural hair beauty. Mielle’s association with the WNBA f underscores the importance of representation for people with textured hair and its growing significance in the sports and beauty industry. It follows Glossier’s 2020 collaboration with the league, which emphasized themes of body positivity and equality. IHA

22 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023

The

Scalp Health Introduction: Embracing Holistic Hair Health Welcome to a world where your hair health truly matters! In this article we’re diving into how our overall wellbeing, from the food we eat to the stress we manage, plays a vital role in the health of our hair. You’ll discover the relationship between the health of your scalp’s microbiome and your daily nutrition, and how these factors, along with cutting-edge biotechnologies, influence your hair care. Let’s explore how lifestyle choices and nutraceuticals are reshaping the way we think about hair care in the US, and how nurturing our inner health can beautifully reflect in our hair’s appearance.

The Scalp’s Microbiome: Your Hair’s First Line of Defense Did you know that just like our gut, our scalp houses a unique microbiome? This microscopic community plays a crucial role in maintaining scalp health, directly influencing hair growth and quality. An imbalance here can lead to hair thinning,

weakening, or loss. A study published in the ‘International Journal of Dermatology’ found that an imbalance in the scalp’s microbiome can increase the risk of scalp issues such as dandruff by up to 50%. The beauty industry is abuzz with products designed to nurture this delicate ecosystem, fostering a healthy environment for hair to thrive. Key Points: • Scalp microbiome health is vital for preventing hair loss. • Imbalance can lead to thinning and weakening of hair. • Nurturing scalp health is a trend in hair care products. • Nutrition and Biotechnologies: Feeding Your Hair from the Roots

Nutrition and Hair: The Role of Diet and Biotechnology The health of our hair often reflects our dietary habits. Nutritional deficits can manifest as weakened strands or accelerated hair loss. Research in the ‘Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry’ states that deficiencies in vitamins such as biotin, niacin, and Vitamin D are linked to hair loss in up to 30% of patients. Biotechnologies are revolutionizing the way we approach hair nutrition, paving the way for nutraceuticals. These sup-

Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 23 plements, packed with hair-friendly nutrients, help combat deficiencies that might lead to hair loss, promising stronger, fuller hair. A market analysis report by ‘Grand View Research’ predicts that the global hair supplement market is expected to grow by 6.8% annually from 2021 to 2028, indicating the rising popularity and acceptance of nutraceuticals in hair care. Key Points: • Diet directly impacts hair health and loss. • Biotechnologies craft supplements to counteract hair loss. • Nutraceuticals strengthen hair from within. • ifestyle and Hair Loss: A Direct Connection

Lifestyle Choices: Their Impact on Hair Health and Loss Our day-to-day choices have a more significant impact on our hair than we might realize. Stress, poor nutrition, and harmful habits like smoking can accelerate hair loss. According to the ‘American Academy of Dermatology’, stress-related hair loss, or telogen effluvium, can affect up to 40% of individuals experiencing high stress levels. On the flip side, embracing a balanced diet, managing stress, and avoiding harmful habits can remarkably improve hair strength and vitality. Key Points: • Stress and poor habits contribute to hair loss. • Balanced lifestyle choices combat hair thinning. • Positive lifestyle changes can improve hair health significantly.

Nutraceuticals in Focus: A Game Changer in Hair Care In the US, the hair care and beauty sector is increasingly welcoming nutraceuticals. These aren’t just your ordinary hair care products; they’re designed to tackle the root causes of hair loss and

thinning, providing a holistic approach to hair health. A market analysis report by ‘Grand View Research’ predicts that the global hair supplement market is expected to grow by 6.8% annually from 2021 to 2028, indicating the rising popularity and acceptance of nutraceuticals in hair care. Key Points: • Nutraceuticals are revolutionizing hair care. • They address the underlying causes of hair loss. • Holistic hair health is gaining traction in the beauty industry.

The Inner-Outer Connection: Reflecting Health Through Your Hair A survey by the ‘National Institutes of Health’ revealed that nearly 75% of participants believed that internal health factors significantly influence hair health. The way we look on the outside is often a mirror of our internal health. A well-nourished body boasts healthier, more resilient hair. This is the heart of the new hair care conversation, focusing not just on external beauty but on overall wellness. Key Points: • Inner health is key to combating hair loss. • Overall wellness is central to modern hair care discussions. • Nourishing the body nourishes the hair.

Conclusion: A New Perspective on Hair Care As we embrace this holistic view of beauty and wellness, we understand how crucial our scalp’s microbiome, nutrition, and lifestyle choices are in maintaining our hair’s health and preventing hair loss. This journey is not just about enhancing our appearance; it’s about nurturing ourselves from the inside out. Embracing this approach leads to a deeper understanding and more informed choices in our hair care routines.

Takeaways: • • •

A holistic view of hair care can help prevent hair loss. Nurturing the scalp and body is key to healthy hair. Informed hair care choices stem from understanding this connection.

Join us on our website for more friendly tips and insights into holistic beauty and hair care, where your journey to stronger, healthier hair begins. IHA

24 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023

New York Paves the Way for

Inclusive Hair Education

A Revolutionary Step in Beauty Education: New York’s Inclusive Hair Care Law In a groundbreaking move, Governor Kathy Hochul of New York has signed a revolutionary bill into law, marking a significant stride towards inclusivity in the beauty industry. The legislation, passionately advocated for by The Texture Education Collective (TEC) alongside dedicated legislators, mandates comprehensive training on all hair types and textures as part of the cosmetology licensing process. This law, building on the foundations laid by a 2017 legislation, is a testament to the evolving nature of beauty standards and the industry’s commitment to diversity and inclusion.

Addressing Historical Bias: The Urgent Need for Inclusive Hair Education For years, the beauty industry has faced criticism for its lim-

ited focus on certain hair types, often neglecting the unique needs of diverse hair textures, particularly those of women and girls of color. A study by Dove’s CROWN (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair) Initiative in 2019 revealed that Black women are 1.5 times more likely to be sent home from the workplace due to their hair, underscoring the deep-seated biases and lack of understanding surrounding diverse hair types.

Transforming Beauty Standards: New York’s Law Ushers in a New Era of Hair Care Governor Hochul’s signing of this bill is more than a legislative success; it’s a cultural shift. By integrating comprehensive training on a variety of hair textures into the cosmetology curriculum, the law ensures that future beauty professionals are well-equipped to cater to a diverse clientele. This not only enhances the skill set of these professionals but also addresses

Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 25 a long-standing gap in beauty education that has disproportionately affected minority communities.

Beauty Professionals Embrace Diversity The response from the beauty industry has been overwhelmingly positive. Hairstylists and salon owners across New York have expressed their support, citing the importance of this inclusive approach in enhancing their services and clientele satisfaction. As one hairstylist, states, “This law is not just about learning different hair types; it’s about respecting and celebrating the beauty in our diversity.”

Driving Change: How TEC and Legislators Championed Inclusive Beauty Standards The Texture Education Collective’s role in this legislative victory cannot be overstated. Collaborating with beauty industry giants and dedicated legislators, TEC has been instrumental in highlighting the need for inclusive hair education. Their advocacy goes beyond New York, with ambitions to see similar standards adopted nationwide, promoting an inclusive and diverse beauty industry.

Setting a National Trend: The Future of Inclusive Beauty Education in America As New York sets a precedent, other states are expected to follow suit, recognizing the importance of inclusive beauty standards. This law is a step towards a more diverse and accepting society, where beauty is not defined by narrow standards but celebrated in all its forms. As Governor Hochul remarked during the signing, “Today, New York leads by example, showing that our diversity is our strength.”

Celebrating Diversity: New York’s Law Marks a Cultural Shift in the Beauty Industry. The signing of this bill into law is more than a legislative achievement; it’s a cultural landmark. It signifies a shift in societal attitudes towards beauty, embracing diversity and inclusion. This momentous step by New York paves the way for a future where every individual, regardless of their hair type, feels valued and catered to in the beauty industry. IHA

Wigs for Kids has launched a holiday giving campaign – Give the Gift of Joy! Children who receive a wig from Wigs for Kids also receive a product package with their first wig. This includes all of the products they need to maintain their wig and keep it looking great! The total product package costs $200. Each wig costs $1,800 to produce, and Wigs for Kids never charges a child for their wig or supportive services. Along with these costs, Wigs for Kids provides training to the stylists who work with recipients, and supportive services to the families. Give the Gift of Joy is focused on the product packages the recipients receive and associated costs. Wigs for Kids hopes you will consider spreading joy this holiday season for our recipients. To spread joy and donate to Give the Gift of Joy, visit JOY

IHA

26 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023

S H P

Tara Gerhart Store Manager and Hair System Specialist at Superhairpieces. “At Superhairpieces, we cater to everyone. Whether it’s a full-piece wig, a topper or maybe just a front piece, we have something that will be right for you. A leader in the hair system industry, we strive to give our clients top-notch products and supplies along with amazing customer service. We truly care about our clients and will be glad to assist you in restoring your confidence whenever you need us.”

About Superhairpieces

Superhairpieces is a trusted, globally recognized, non-surgical hair replacement, US-based company for high-quality hair solutions and products dedicated to helping individuals look and feel their best. With a commitment to excellence, they strive to provide innovative and top-tier human hairpieces for women, hair systems for men, hair extensions, and supplies that cater to various preferences and needs with timeless designs that live beyond the latest trends.

Unveiling an array of hairpieces and products to combat hair loss

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28 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023

TRI PRINCETON TALKS CONTINUE WITH TRI TALK #5 “SKIN HEALTH BENEFITS OF TOPICAL + ENTERAL “PROBIOTICS & PREBIOTICS”

TRI Talks started on-line in 2020, with the aim of keeping healthy scientific discourse going through the COVID pandemic. Just like TED Talks, after which they were named, they set out to be engaging, informative and thought provoking.

The human microbiome is currently ‘big business’ both commercial and scientifically. Most evidence for the effectiveness of microbiome—based therapies derive from the gut, with the so-called ‘probiotics’ enjoying huge commercial success.

Last year, 743 people from around the world registered to join the conversation. In 2023, the TRI Talks focus on Hair, Skin and Nail Science and Claims Methods, and feature expert speakers from TRI. All talks will be available to stream live and on playback.

In recent years there has been increased understanding of the ability of gut microbes to exert influence at body sites beyond the gut and this includes enterally consumed lactic acid bacteria or prebiotics (their growth substrates) that have been studied for their ability to improve skin health.

In the fifth TRI Talk on the 14th of December, Professor Catherine O’Neill (Professor of Translational Dermatology, The University of Manchester, UK) will focus on ‘SKIN HEALTH OF TOPICAL + ENTERAL PROBIOTICS & PREBIOTICS’

Furthermore, the use of topical lactobacilli, either as live organisms or extracts (termed postbiotics) as novel treatments for skin is gaining credence with an exponential increase in cosmetic preparations containing ‘probiotics.

To join TRI Talks, register here for free (https://cvent.me/ blyEMr). If you have already registered, this is the link to the event website that you need to access the live feeds and recordings (https://cvent.me/blyDRl )

This presentation will discuss the evidence available for the effectiveness of topical and enteral probiotics and prebiotics along with some of the proposed mechanisms of action. IHA

Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 29

The Emergence of

Exosomes:

Understanding Exosome Science

What Are Exosomes and What Do They Do? Exosomes are extracellular vesicles released from cells that act as messengers, transmitting proteins, lipids, and genetic material between cells. They facilitate communication and influence various physiological processes. Research shows exosomes derived from stem cells demonstrate remarkable regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties.

Exosomes for Hair: Burgeoning Potential A January 2023 systematic review identified 16 studies, mostly preclinical, demonstrating the potential of exosomes, especially from adipose stem cells (ADSCs), to stimulate hair growth. One clinical study treating 39 androgenetic alopecia patients with ADSC-derived exosomes showed significant improvement in hair density and thickness, with no adverse effects. Additional clinical trials are underway.

“Exosomes activate signaling pathways that drive hair follicle transition from resting (telogen) to active growth (anagen) phases,” states Dr. Ada Jones, lead researcher at the Yale Hair Regeneration Lab. “They represent one of the most promising new approaches for treating alopecia.”

30 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 Industry Investment Spotlights Exosome Promise

Over 45 biotech companies focus on exosome research and commercialization, with total investments exceeding $500 million. Major players like Aruna Bio, Capricor Therapeutics, and Stemedica are pioneering therapeutic applications from cardiology to dermatology. A runaway success story isJeff Bezos recent $3 billion investment into Altos Labs, an exosome company focused on cellular rejuvenation. Such bets underscore industry confidence in exosome potential.

Administration Methods and Protocols Exosome therapy typically involves isolation of exosomes via ultracentrifugation or proprietary methods, followed by application to the scalp via injection, microneedling or topical gels/solutions. Optimal dosages are still being refined through studies. Providers follow meticulous protocols for quality control and sterility. As research progresses, standardized administration guidelines will further maturation.

THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY The Hair Authority’s mission is to provide hairmanagement professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their clients and patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide. EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb

cwebb@hairauthority.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Vikas Verma vicky1verma@gmail.com

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Celestine Gitau, IAT

celestinegitau@gmail.com

Hans Diks

European Editor

LEGAL NOTICE

Safety and Side Effects Analysis So Far As of early 2023, no major safety issues have emerged from clinical studies analyzing exosome therapy for hair growth. Minor side effects may include redness, inflammation or discomfort at treatment sites. However, larger dataset analysis over longer time periods is required to conclusively demonstrate safety. Close medical supervision is still advised when undergoing therapy.

The Road Ahead: Challenges and Opportunities Despite encouraging preliminary findings, exosome therapy faces hurdles like insufficient clinical trial data specifically for hair growth applications. Understanding optimal exosome sources, delivery mechanisms and long-term impacts remains critical as the field evolves. However, the accelerating pace of research and investments suggests rapid progress is imminent.

Conclusion Exosomes mark an exciting advancement in hair restoration that may transform treatment paradigms. Continued research and medical investments will clarify if these microscopic marvels can fulfil their disruptive potential. For now, alongside caution, there is room for hope and guarded optimism. IHA

The views expressed in The International Hair Authority are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The International Hair Authority, its editors or staff. The Authority’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The International Hair Authority makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of the International Hair Authority a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The International Hair Authority accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of the International Hair Authority and may be edited for clarity, presentations and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The International Hair Authority, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, websites and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The International Hair Authority Media Kit.

The material published in The International Hair Authority is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.

THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY 30659 Lily Pond Ln., Murrieta, CA 92563 Email: info@hairauthority.com Tel: 626-709-6397

Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023 31

32 Hair Authority Fall/Winter 2023