Ireland NOVEMBER 2019
TASTE SENSATION An island of many flavours
POINTS OF INTEREST Ireland’s heritage laid bare
CULTURAL QUARTERS Cities bursting with personality
WALK ON THE WILD SIDE Ireland’s great outdoors
Mount Errigal, Co. Donegal
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A taste of the island
TEMPTING THE TASTEBUDS: The English Market in Cork offers locally produced artisan foods
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HE island of Ireland produces most of what it eats – Irish beef, lamb, pork and fish are amongst the best in the world, while the market gardeners of Armagh lead the way in the cultivation of apples. The Long Meadow Farm, Armagh, is one such place, where you can learn about hedgerow foraging – plucking food that won’t differ much from what our ancestors ate – or take cookery masterclasses, and perhaps prepare for a Bramley Apple Banquet. The quality of local food products has led to a renaissance of Irish cuisine. Classic recipes from the great gastronomic traditions of Europe are invigorated with local produce, and given an Irish twist in preparation. The result is mouth-watering. Every county has its restaurants and pubs specialising in excellent local produce cooked with care and sophistication. So you might opt for organic scrambled egg and smoked salmon from Chapter One in Dublin city, Connemara air-dried lamb in Loam in Galway, or pesto-stuffed chicken breasts with roast vegetables at McNean House in Blacklion, Co. Cavan. You may even choose to sample some traditional Irish cuisine at a pub famed for being the ‘highest in Ireland’. The awardwinning kitchen at Johnnie Fox’s serves classic Irish dishes and seafood specials, with all ingredients sourced locally from high quality ‘farm to fork’ suppliers. In Belfast, top tables include OX, jointly owned by Alain Kerloc’h and Stephen Toman. Their combined endeavours have
transformed an old dockside building into a Michelin-starred restaurant. You might want to try the tender duck meat served at the bottom of the egg cup, topped with egg and subtle, cardamom-treated foam. The Muddler’s Club, renowned chef Gareth McCaughey’s place, is a buzzy bistro serving the likes of white onion soup with smoked haddock and curry oil. In Carlingford you can combine views of two mountain ranges – the Mournes and the Cooleys — and dine on world-class gastronomy in the Georgian splendour of Ghan House. Naturally, the great food tradition of Game of Thrones, substantially filmed in Northern Ireland, also makes an appearance. After all, the Baratheons, the Starks the Greyjoys and all those other warriors enjoyed a good feast before the mayhem and bloodbath began. At Ballygally Castle in Co. Antrim – in the heart of Thrones country – you can sample Lannister egg rolls, Hodor’s pulled pork brioche and Dothraki trifle with a mini dragon’s egg. Be sure to have plenty – after all WINTER IS COMING, as John Snow memorably said. YOU may want to try some cooking yourself. Good news: The island of Ireland has world class food markets where the ingredients for making, say, the very lightest feuille de brique pastry or the finest mozzarella arancini are readily available. At the English Market in Cork city you’ll find a variety of gastronomic
star turns with produce from all over the island. St George’s Market in Belfast features Northern Ireland’s gift to gastronomy, the three types of indigenous bread — soda farls, wheaten bread and potato farls. The fish comes in directly from Portavogie and Kilkeel (Co. Down fishing ports), the seafood from nearby Carlingford Lough or Strangford Lough. Dublin’s Temple Bar Market supplies all the artisan cheeses, organic vegetables, sauces, relishes, preserves that will turn a mere snack into a princely feast. To help manage this plethora of culinary riches, several cookery schools have opened up over the last few decades to assist you in that endeavour. These are amongst the best Europe has to offer. Catherine Fulvio’s Cookery School in Ballyknocken House, Wicklow, Darina Allen’s Ballymaloe Cookery School in Co. Cork or Forestside Cookery School, Belfast present a variety of courses, workshops and classes. At Wee Buns Cookery School in Dungannon, County Tyrone, you’ll get a hands-on lesson in cake-making and decorating, traditional Irish baking, seasonal cooking or kids’ baking. Or you can knead, bake and wolf down delicious homemade bread with lashings of butter at Tracey’s Farmhouse Kitchen in Co. Down. Throughout the year food festivals celebrate locally grown produce and traditional Irish cuisine. The Burren Food Fayre (October 26-27) plays a key role in
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the festivities for the Winterage Festival, held in the towns and villages of the Burren – a region that is one of the most unique landscapes to be found along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. This harvest celebration, at the end of the growing season, emphasises the unique way of farming on the dramatic landscape of Co. Clare, culminating in a cattle drive to the uplands The Galway International Oyster and Seafood Festival (September 27–29) is a feast of fine food, stout and Guinness — and not forgetting the World Oyster Opening Championships, a masquerade ball, live cooking demos and much more.
Taste the Island Currently, food producers, chefs, restaurants, distillers and brewers are celebrating the country’s cuisine through festivals, workshops, demonstrations and pop-up restaurants. Taste the Island is an eight-week showcase of Ireland’s food and drink running from this month until November 2019. It embraces all the culinary traditions of the regions, with activities including visits to food producers, distillers and brewers; food trails and food festivals; trying or honing traditional culinary skills; foraging and fishing. As well, of course, as providing opportunities to sit back and enjoy the best of modern Irish cuisine in traditional pubs, small-town cafés, restaurants, city bistros and Michelinstarred experiences. Covering every culinary niche of the island, there are options to participate to suit all tastes, budgets and timeframes.
FARM TO FORK: Sample traditional Irish cuisine at Johnnie Fox’s
Authentic artisan producers, boundarypushing chefs and dynamic distillers are all on hand to reveal their secrets – or at least some of them. Fishermen are celebrating the International Year of the Salmon with a new visitor experience which tells the story of the skill of fishing and Ireland’s long traditions behind it by taking a seafood adventure along the Wild Atlantic Way. The Taste the Atlantic trail gives visitors a chance to learn about fish in a new and hands on way while of course getting to taste some of this natural fresh produce also. A Seafood Journey is a dedicated seafood trail – an adventure dotted with
FORAGING: Learn to find food from field and hedgerow at Long Meadow Farm, Armagh
suggestions ranging from restaurants and cafés to farms, fishing ports and smokehouses. It’s a route you can dip into or do in its entirety, an opportunity to explore Ireland’s pristine oceans; to sample its food story; to enjoy an unforgettable taste of place on a plate. Seafood is where the Wild Atlantic Way meets Ireland’s unique culture. It’s about lobster and crab, salmon and mackerel, oysters and mussels plucked fresh from the heaving ocean. But it’s also about the men and women who mix tradition and 21st century techniques to bring it from tide to table, to serve it just a few miles (or in some cases, just a few feet) from where it’s caught.
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Island landmarks
REMOTE APPEAL: Dunluce Castle, Co. Antrim
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FAIRYTALE GRANDEUR: The Rock of Cashel
NCE upon a time you could get a grant of £10 to build a castle in Ireland. In the 15h century Edward VI promised a tenner to anyone putting up a castle in order to strengthen the boundaries of The Pale. That was, as you might imagine, a sizeable sum back then. So, coupled with the pressing incentive of protecting family and belongings, castles went up with alacrity. One of the world’s great forts, Dunluce Castle – intoxicatingly remote – clings to the precipitous rocks of the Antrim coast. Separated from the mainland by a dangerous chasm, it had been a fort since pre-Christian times, but was turned into the forbidding castle it is today by the Normans.
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Dunluce has film star good looks and has featured in productions such as Game of Thrones where it is Castle Greyjoy, as well as being the inspiration for Cair Paravel in C. S. Lewis’s Chronicles of Narnia. A few miles to the south east, stands Carrickfergus Castle, guarding the seashore and standing uant against the Irish Sea. King John’s Castle in Carlingford, Co. Louth, is almost sandcastle perfect. Nestling below the Cooleys and overlooking Carlingford Lough, Norman soldiers would have kept a careful look out for marauders. Built in the 13th century, much of the castle remains intact. There is also a King John’s Castle to be found in Co. Limerick. A 13th century castle,
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located on Kings Island, next to the River Shannon, this is a popular site for locals and tourists – bringing 800 years of local history to life with a visitor centre and interpretive activities and exhibitions. In Co. Armagh, the threatening hulk of Moyry Castle guards the lands round Kilnasaggart just outside Jonesborough. Nearby stands what is probably the oldest Christian field monument in Ireland, and one of the oldest in the whole of Europe outside Rome. Marking the site of an early cemetery, the monument is set in a peaceful glen which is home to a legend – a crock of gold is buried below the pillar. Overturned by treasure seekers in the 1830s, it was reset shortly afterwards. The gold, fortunately, wasn’t
found. So, keep your eyes peeled. By the seaside or on top of a substantial rock are the favourite places to build castles – it’s not hard to work out why; one offers easy access, the other no access; both important considerations in any squabble with determined foes. The operatic grandeur of the Rock of Cashel with its fairytale turrets and crenellation dominates the surrounding lands of Kildare, while Dunguaire Castle in Co. Galway dates back to 1520. Kilkenny Castle is up there with Edinburgh Castle, the Tower of London or Mad Ludwig’s Castle in Bavaria as one of the great castles of the world, a 12th century fortification remodelled in
Victorian times. At Bunratty Castle you’ll be able to experience a rip-roaring banquet with music, wine and feasting – plus legends, ghosts and tall tales, hidden behind the time-darkened walls. Castles in Ireland eventually segued into fortified houses, sometimes called ‘tower houses’ and thence into ‘big houses’. Some reached huge levels of luxury, models of fine architecture without, gracious living within. These demesnes were soon developed to include groomed parkland and magnificent gardens such as Powerscourt Gardens in Co. Wicklow. Legends, ghosts, history and tall tales are all hidden in the grey stones which make up this integral part of Ireland’s landscape.
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Museums
Ireland today has a breadth of museums and art galleries that stand as a fascinating testament to the country’s long history
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EPIC EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum (pictured left) is an interactive experience that tells Ireland’s emigration story of tragedy and triumph. The dramatic and inspiring stories of the Irish who travelled the world, from early times to the modern day, come to life. This digital museum features 1500 years of Irish history and relives some of the greatest achievements in music, literature, sport, politics, fashion and science.
THE LITTLE MUSEUM The Little Museum of Dublin is an eccentric exhibition of life in the capital, quirks, warts and all. Set in a Georgian townhouse on the edge of St. Stephen’s Green, this museum embarks on an idiosyncratic cultural path through the last century. The collection of 5,000 pieces – including a range of U2 memorabilia – follows a timeline that begins with a traditional drawing room commemorating 1900s Dublin. After having your fill of the rare ould times, you can stroll into the modern history section, which includes everything from clips of The Dubliners to letters from Samuel Beckett.
THE ULSTER AMERICAN FOLK MUSEUM The Ulster American Folk Park, Omagh, Co. Tyrone documents the emigration of generations of Irish people to the Americas. The park is centred round the restored farmhouse of Thomas Mellon who left Tyrone in 1818 and eventually founded the Mellon Bank of Pittsburgh. Even by Tyrone standards that’s going some. The folk park boasts, amongst many other exhibits, a beautifully restored weaver’s cottage, a local schoolhouse and a blacksmith’s forge. The New World area consists of several type of log cabins, a Conestoga wagon (a “prairie schooner”), and a run-down of the dozen US presidents who had connections with Northern Ireland.
THE CÉIDE FIELDS At the northern end of Co. Mayo farmers have been tending their crops for more than 5000 years. The Céide Fields are a snapshot of what the Irish countryside looked like some five millennia ago, proof that a highly organised, sophisticated and spiritually-minded farming community was working away here in happy isolation. Part of the bog has been cut away to reveal the collapsed stone walls of the ancient fields, and there’s an award-winning interpretative centre which presents an idea of how our early ancestors lived.
THE ULSTER MUSEUM The Ulster Museum in Belfast is one of the best places in the world to get to grips with the nooks and crannies of the island’s history — it houses one of the world’s main archives on the topic. From Neolithic times to the Titanic and from the Mesolithic tools to the Spanish Armada — which foundered off the northerly seaboard of the island —the museum is a treasure trove of traditional and contemporary exhibits. You’ll also get the lowdown on linen, rope and glass manufacturing, industrial machines and Irish painting.
THE HUNT MUSEUM, LIMERICK
ECCENTRIC AND QUIRKY: TheLittle Museum
The Hunt is one of Ireland’s premier museums holding one of the finest private collections of art and antiquities in the world. First stop should be the Treasury to see to see the Greek coin made into a pendant, reputed to be one of the thirty
pieces of silver paid to Judas Iscariot. The Dekadrachma of Syracuse carries an inscription: “Quia precium sanguinis est” (This is the price of blood). The coin could be the real deal – it is of ‘Greek, Sicilian or Southern Italian origins’ and dates to around the correct era.
DUNDALK COUNTY MUSEUM Located in a beautifully restored late 18th century warehouse in the Carroll Centre at Roden Place in Jocelyn Street, Dundalk County Museum traces the lengthy history of the area. Exhibits range from a Heinkel bubble car (the vehicles were manufactured in the town in the 1950s) to a leather coat reputed to have been worn at the Battle of the Boyne.
THE TOWER MUSEUM The Tower Museum, set within the walls of Derry-Londonderry, traces the city’s history from the early Christian days of Colmcille (one of the great missionaries of the earliest Celtic Church).
THE HUGH LANE GALLERY The Hugh Lane Gallery in Dublin (below) houses one of Ireland’s foremost collections of modern and contemporary art. 2000 works are on display, ranging from the Impressionist masterpieces of Manet, Monet, Renoir and Degas to works by leading contemporary artists, including a wing dedicated to Dublin-born artist Francis Bacon.
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Cities and culture
Ireland offers culture, history and literature — as well as myth, ancient legend, quirkiness, music and dance
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Waterford Waterford is the oldest centre of continuous urban settlement in Ireland – as early as 795AD Viking raiders were mounting attacks on monasteries and settlements. But after a while, as the raiders matured, they realised that actually settling in Waterford – with its sheltered harbour and relatively mild climate – made a lot of sense. Being a medieval settlement, and as so a key location in Ireland’s Ancient East region, Waterford has spread out over many, many generations to incorporate ancient villages. These now form distinctive areas within the city, such as the Viking triangle near Reginald’s tower. Narrow laneways, tranquil surroundings and late-night dining have made this a fine place to soak up old Waterford’s atmosphere.
Armagh Armagh was once the very centre of Europe with its great teaching monastery and missionary abbey founded by St Patrick. That has bestowed on this venerable and handsome city a tranquil, unhurried air.
Dublin This is a good time to head to Dublin. The autumn lends a magic light to the timedarkened buildings, bold statues and Georgian streets. Many of Dublin’s attractions lie south of The Liffey – including the vibrant Temple Bar, Trinity College, Grafton Street, St Stephen’s Green and most of the museums.
Limerick Stand on Sarsfield Bridge in Limerick and you can watch a hundred swans swim effortlessly down the Shannon towards the Atlantic. With King John’s Castle as a backdrop, it’s an arresting sight. To learn more about this fascinating old city, walking tours – including one with an Angela’s Ashes theme – are a good bet; you’ll pass by the castle, the City Museum, St Mary’s Cathedral, the Hunt Museum and the Treaty Stone. For more leisurely tours, take a boat along the River Shannon to see where those swans were headed.
Kilkenny Kilkenny retains more of its mediaeval character than any other Irish city – hence its prime positioning within Ireland’s Ancient East. Two imposing cathedrals and an extremely impressive 12th century castle overlooking the River Nore put it
9 right up there with the very finest of Europe’s cities. And of course Kilkenny’s nickname, the Marble City, is a tribute to the very attractive local stone – which in fact isn’t marble at all, but carboniferous limestone, fact fans.
Galway Galway city, which started out life as a simple fishing village, is one of Ireland’s main cultural, culinary and entertainment centres. From gigs to festivals, to the famous Galway Races and the county’s prime location along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, there is always something happening here. Once the wine capital of Ireland, it’s natural that the city developed a reputation for fine food. Today Galway probably boasts as many restaurants, gastro-pubs and upmarket cafes per square mile than anywhere else in Europe.
Derry-Londonderry Derry-Londonderry has evolved into a city with edgy art galleries, innovative museums, contemporary restaurants and buzzy pubs. It is the only completely walled city on the island of Ireland, and one of the finest in Europe. Its stone bastions have seen some of the key events in the island’s history.
Cork The 21st century has seen Cork metamorphose into a vibrant, handsome metropolis, boasting fine pubs and classy restaurants, as well as a wide range of clubs, theatres and concert venues. AWARD WINNING: Titanic Belfast
A busy port in its heyday (around the 18th century) Cork’s relaxed city centre stands on an island in the middle of the River Lee – another popular stop for those exploring Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way.
Belfast Belfast’s history goes back many thousands upon thousands of years, perhaps even further. It does this in its own alternate universe, not correlating to time as we know it. Yes, we’re talking Game of Thrones here, the fantasy drama extensively filmed in Belfast and throughout Northern Ireland, eons ago. But what better place to film a surreal, historical drama than Belfast? This is the birthplace, after all, of CS Lewis, as well as being the old stomping ground of Dublin’s Jonathan Swift – both of whom contributed greatly to the canon of surreal literature in, respectively, the Chronicles of Narnia and Gulliver’s Travels. Tours are available for Game of Thrones fans. Regularly cited as the most successful television series ever, the mediaeval fantasy is extensively filmed in a corner of the former Harland and Wolff shipyards in east Belfast and throughout Northern Ireland. Belfast’s tangle of (mostly) Victorian streets also contain much real-life drama, not least the whole story of the RMS Titanic and its birth in the Lagan shipyards. The award-winning museum Titanic Belfast has the whole lowdown on one of the most famous, and indeed infamous, maritime disasters in history. Belfast poet Louis McNiece described Belfast as being built “between the mountains and the gantries”. The gantries at the shipyards now stand idle, but the mountains are still there – as well as the culture and cask-conditioned craic.
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Festivals
SLIGO LIVE Currently – until October 28 www.sligolive.ie
The festival season is now entering its autumn mode, with everything from theatre, film, jazz, rock and much more on offer GALWAY INTERNATIONAL OYSTER AND SEAFOOD FESTIVAL September 2020 www.galwayoysterfestival.com Being an island means you can always guarantee you will find great seafood in Ireland - which means even greater seafood festivals. One that is certainly worth a visit is the Galway International Oyster and Seafood Festival – which honours “the first man bold enough to eat an oyster”, according to satirist Jonathan Swift. See www.galwayoysterfestival.com for the full line up for 2020. BELFAST INTERNATIONAL ARTS FESTIVAL Currently — until November 3 www.belfastinternationalartsfestival.com One of the biggest arts festivals on the island of Ireland.
WEXFORD OPERA FESTIVAL October 28 – November 3 www.wexfordopera.com Since the 1950s the annual Wexford Opera Festival has been a fixture in the international opera calendar, renowned as one of the world’s finest. This year’s festival features operas from Massenet, Vivaldi, and Rossini. Even if you haven’t got tickets for the main events, there’s street opera, stand-up opera, pub opera, and even operaoke – a type of operatic karaoke, if you hadn’t guessed. IMAGINE ARTS FESTIVAL Currently – until October 27 www.imagineartsfestival.com Theatre, dance, music, visual art, discussion and debate, with a strong focus on homegrown works are all part of proceedings in Waterford. THE SEAFOOD’S THE STAR: Galway Oyster and Seafood Festival
Folk, roots and indie festival with more than 100 performances from folk, roots and indie musicians. Over six days the cafes, pubs, hotels, clubs, shopping centres and theatres of Sligo stage intimate performances by top Irish and international acts. BRAM STOKER FESTIVAL October 25 – October 28 www.bramstokerfestival.com Just in time for Halloween, Dublin has a weekend devoted to the life and legacy of the creator of the world’s favourite, extravagantly-fanged count, Dracula. It’s billed as four days of deadly adventures, celebrating the gothic, the mysterious, the after-dark and the thrill of Halloween. RICHARD HARRIS INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL October 22 – October 28 www.richardharrisfilmfestival.com The Richard Harris International Film Festival is based in Limerick City, home of one of Ireland’s Hollywood legends and most famous sons. WHISKEY LIVE, DUBLIN November 22-23 www.whiskylive.com With over 60 exhibitors, the festival explores all aspects of whiskey over. Tastings, demonstrations, information about new distilleries and some history of whiskey-making on the island of Ireland are all included in this festival. LISTOWEL FOOD FAIR, KERRY November 7-11 www.listowelfoodfair.ie The Listowel Food Fair, which started back in 1994, showcases the best food producers that Kerry has to offer. Demonstrations, tastings and workshops are all on offer in the festival which is being run in conjunction with Taste the Island. CARLINGFORD OYSTER FESTIVAL August 2020 www.carlingfordoysterfestival.com Situated on the southern shore of the Carlingford Lough in Co. Louth, the Carlingford Oyster Festival claims to be one of the most relaxing seafood festivals in Ireland. Offering music, family activities and those all-important oysters there is plenty to keep you busy at this festival, or you could take it all in your stride and
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FOODIE HEAVEN: Armagh Food and Cider Festival confirms the region’s reputation for the quality of its fare
sample some of the country’s finest seafood while enjoying the views across the lough to the quaint old streets of Carlingford. CORK GUINNESS JAZZ FESTIVAL October 24 – October 28 www.guinnessjazzfestival.com Ireland’s longest-established jazz festival, held in a variety of venues throughout the city, now attracts names of huge international stature. Headliners this year include Big Brass Band Explosion, Dr Linley Hamilton, Fred Hersch Trio, Martha Reeves and the Vandellas, and Mica Paris sings Ella Fitzgerald. CRAFT BEER & SEAFOOD TRAIL Currenlty until November 30 www.hiddenhowthexperiences.com Taste some of the best seafood Dublin has to offer as you tour the picturesque fishing village of Howth, stopping off at locations along the route to sample its culinary delights.
Along the way you’ll hear tales of Howth’s ancient past – Viking & Norman invasions, the history of the 700-year-old castle, Kings landing and many many more. This unique experience will excite all of your senses – offering some of the best views in Ireland, magical sea smells, sounds of the wide variety of wildlife and unrivalled food and drink. More information at www.hiddenhowthexperiences.com ARMAGH FOOD AND CIDER FESTIVAL September 2020 www.visitarmagh.com The Armagh Food and Cider Festival takes place every September, boasting food and cider markets, banquet events and orchard walks among its bustling lineup. Famed for its food quality, artisan ciders and a band of inventive enthusiastic chefs the festival highlights the region’s reputation for great food, unique events and distinctive experiences. Check www.visitarmagh.com for details of the 2020 offering.
DERRY HALLOWEEN FESTIVAL October 25 – November 1 www.derryhalloween.com Reckoned to be the biggest Halloween festival in the world, the city’s Spooktacular knees-up takes place against Derry-Londonderry’s dramatic backdrop of ancient walls and buildings. This extravagant celebration of the supernatural, features fireworks, light shows, dramatic music, storytelling, a Carnival Parade and the famous Samhain Traditional Sessions. SPOOKTACULAR: Derry Halloween Festival
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Ireland on screen
STUNNING SCENERY: Ballintoy Harbour – a key filming location for Game of Thrones
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HE dramatic scenery of Ireland has been used in hundreds of films and television series from Harry Potter to Moby Dick, and from The Tudors to Star Wars. The Irish film industry has a long history, but one production set in Co. Mayo stands out. It begins: “A fine soft day in the spring it was when the train pulled into Castletown three hours late as usual, and himself got off. He didn’t have the look of an American tourist at all about him. Not a camera on him. And what was worse, not even a fishing rod.” Yes, The Quiet Man. The quintessentially Irish countryside of Mayo became the backdrop for a Hollywood postcard evocation of Ireland, and nearly 70 years later Americans, film buffs and movie-tourists continue to make pilgrimages to the area. One of the first colour films ever to be shot outside of North America, The Quiet Man brought a vast amount of crew alongside the cast to picturesque filming locations in the west of Ireland – with Galway also featured. So
impressed were the US production team with their surroundings that many returned to Ireland with their families once filming had finished. Oh, and if you want a supreme piece of trivia, try this one for size: the song the Isle of Innisfree is featured in both The Quiet Man and E.T. In the latter, ET is sitting watching The Quiet Man on television, with Dick Farrelly singing “. . . especially when it happens he’s an exile, / From that lovely Isle of Innisfree.” Ryan’s Daughter probably shares equal billing with The Quiet Man as providing some of the most resounding images in Ireland’s cinematic history. On the Dingle Peninsula an entire village was recreated among the
patchwork of fields near Dunquin. Saving Private Ryan was filmed on the sands of Curracloe Beach, with Co. Wexford masquerading as Normandy and Irish soldiers playing the part of GIs. 750 soldiers from the same Irish Defence Forces played extras in the battle scenes of Braveheart.
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The be-kilted bottoms, bared in one of the most memorable scenes in the film, were, to a cheek, Irish behinds. Although set in Scotland, much of the action was filmed on the Curragh in Co. Kildare – another hotspot on the Ireland’s Ancient East trail. Dublin has often acted as a film set. Trinity College was immortalised in Educating Rita, and the city even pretended it was its country cousin Limerick for Angela’s Ashes. Neil Jordan’s Michael Collins featured large chunks of the city, while The Commitments showed another side of the metropolis. It’s fair to say that film fans have plenty to choose from in Ireland, particularly followers of the epic Star Wars franchise, with the island’s Wild Atlantic Way providing dramatic backdrops for both Star Wars Episode VII – The Force Awakens and Star Wars Episode VIII — The Last Jedi. “May the craic be with you,” said the t-shirts, accompanied by a picture of Skellig Michael. These became a common sight in the queues amongst people waiting for boats heading out towards the Skellig Islands in 2016. The reason was simple enough: Rian Johnson’s space-opera sequel Star Wars Episode VIII — The Last Jedi was extensively filmed on the westerly outreaches of Co. Kerry to the northerly tip of Donegal. Star attraction amongst the film locations was Skellig Michael or Sceilig Mhór. One of Ireland’s three UNESCO Heritage Sites, the small island was, 1500 years ago, home for an early Christian settlement. The Skellig monks, should they have gone to their anticipated rewards in the afterlife, will undoubtedly have looked down on their former island home with incomprehension tinged. The filming of the Star Wars epic, originally announced as Star Wars: The Last Jedi must have utterly perplexed them. As well as the consistently popular boat tours bringing film fans around the Skelligs, further Star Wars filming locations that are well worth a visit include Loop Head in Co. Clare, Malin Head in Donegal and Ceann Sibéal (Sybil Head) in Ballyferriter, Dingle, Co. Kerry.
THE SMALL SCREEN In these days of box sets, television productions have reached the same status as the biggest Hollywood blockbuster – and none are bigger than Game of Thrones. Some of the most famous scenes in the series were filmed in Northern Ireland at breathtaking sites such as Dunluce Castle on the Antrim Coast, and amongst the Gothic curios of Tollymore Forest in Co. Down. As a result, Northern Ireland has become something of a mecca for Game of Thrones fans – with plenty of activities and attractions related to the epic series to keep them coming back again and again. Among the GOT hotspots are The Dark Hedges, near Armoy in Co, Antrim, which became the Kings Road, where Arya disguised herself as a boy to avoid capture. But captured she was, and dragged to the Brotherhood without Banners’ hideout, otherwise known as Pollnagollum Cave in Co. Fermanagh. For those looking for a true GOT experience on their travels, why not try a Winterfell Tour, a Meet the Direwolves Tour or feast on a Stark banquet on a Medieval Banquet Night. There is also a pretty impressive Game of Thrones Tapestry located at the Ulster Museum in Belfast, which details scenes from every series and is a must see for anyone who is a GOT fan. Before Game of Thrones there was Ballykissangel. Its mixture of whimsy, striking scenery, and stories of gentle intrigue in rural communities gripped audiences in Britain and Ireland. A sort of ‘Last Of The Summer Guinness’, Kieran Prendiville’s story of an English priest abroad in the village of Ballykissangel attracted 15 million viewers when it first hit the screens in the 1990s. That represented more than half the British viewing public, and turned the Co. Wicklow town of Avoca into a top telly-tourist destination overnight. Father Ted, filmed in the west of Ireland, had a simple enough plot – a bunch of priests who never quite got the hang of sobriety, penury or several other priestly requirements were exiled to a remote island. But from the opening bars of the theme music – Songs of Love by Divine Comedy – audiences on either side of the Irish Sea were captivated. Father Ted, as well as being jocular, went for the jugular too. While Derry-Londonderry is always a great place to visit, it has become increasingly popular since the arrival of the hit comedy series Derry Girls. Set in the mid-90s audiences can’t get enough of 16-yearold Erin, her friends and her family. So there is every reason to go and see their stomping ground for yourself. Take a tour of city, visit the Derry Girls mural or walk in the footsteps of Erin and the gang on a Derry Girls guided tour.
HERITAGE SITE: Skellig Michael (left) was the temporary home of The Last Jedi DARKNESS VISIBLE: The Dark Hedges, Co. Antrim as featured in Game of Thrones
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The Great Outdoors
VANTAGE POINT: Diamond Hill, Connemara
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RELAND is a first class destination for outdoor activities. Its coastline, rivers and loughs provide endless opportunities for watersports, while inland the mountains, hills, moorland and forests are ideal for a variety of energetic activities from hill-walking to orienteering. The number of activity holidays Ireland can offer continues to grow — from surfing in Co. Sligo to horsedrawn camping holidays in the quiet byways of Co. Leitrim there are myriad opportunities for adventure. Dinghy sailing, horse-trekking, rock-climbing, whale watching — there’s a wealth of activities to choose from. You’re sure to find an adventure that could transform your holiday, and — who knows — maybe even your life.
Hill walking and hiking Ireland’s mountains will leave you breathless in more ways than one as you stride through heather and history. There is a huge expanse of countryside – mountains, moorland, bogland, coastline and woodland – where you can wander all day. Macgillycuddy’s Reeks – Ireland’s highest mountains – offer the toughest challenges, but the Slieve Blooms (mostly in Co. Offaly), the Bluestack Mountains (Co. Donegal), or the Mournes and Sperrins in Northern Ireland provide everything from demanding climbs to pleasant rambles. Several way-marked routes criss-cross Ireland – the Ulster Way, The Tain Way, the West
Way, the Wicklow Way, to name only a few, all provide stunning panoramas – and en route you’re likely to encounter rollicking hospitality and incorrigible informality. And if that wasn’t enough, there are a total of 179 different walks to choose from on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. These routes were made for walking!
Cycling Cycling in Ireland is a delight: every county has quiet byways ideal for a two wheeled odyssey. Today there are also ‘greenways’ – off-road routes for cyclists and walkers, often created from the routes of the old railways.
The greenways are an elemental way to travel; you’ll feel the mountain breeze on your face, smell the sea, and breathe in the scent of meadowsweet. These routes criss-cross extraordinarily beautiful countryside in every part of the island. The Waterford Greenway arrives at Dungarvan Bay before visiting Norman castles, ethereal monasteries, welcoming villages – all are part of the tapestry of this region. The Grand Canal Way begins in Dublin city centre and heads west to the River Shannon, while the Comber Greenway runs from Belfast to Comber along the old railway line. In Mayo along the Great Western Greenway the views across Clew Bay are dramatic.
The Irish Post This is Ireland’s original greenway, stretching across the county, finally reaching Achill Island. At 2,500km in total, the Wild Atlantic Way is just as navigable by bike as it is by car, and offers a wide selection of cycling experiences for two-wheeled enthusiasts.
Watersports The Atlantic seaboard faces the full force of the ocean – excellent news for whitewater fans. The award-winning surfer’s paradise of Rossnowlagh and the white horses of the Bloody Foreland continue to draw surfers and wind-surfers from across the globe. Wind, as you might imagine, is never really a problem. There can be few more enticing days than braving the waves followed by an evening in front of the fire with a hot whiskey in your hand – surf, turf and toddy. Ireland’s watery parts provide a wealth of sports: canoeing, kayaking, windsurfing, stand-up paddle boarding, dinghy sailing; you can even go rafting on the River Liffey. Of course, with its lengthy coastal route, the Wild Atlantic Way is teeming with opportunities to venture into the waves. There are more obscure sports such as kite-surfing or land-yachting, and Ireland’s pugnacious coastline is ideal for the sport of canyoning – also known as gorge walking. This involves following a shoreline, stream or
15 river and negotiating the many obstacles that get in your way, sometimes diving into water. It is a pastime for the very adventurous.
OFF ROADING: Waterford Greenway
Golfing Even if you need a pocket calculator to keep your score, golf in Ireland more than compensates with its incomparable scenery and warm hospitality. Royal Portrush hosted The 148th Open this year, the biggest international sporting event ever held in Northern Ireland, with golfers, spectators and aficionadas from every continent making the journey to the north coast of Co. Antrim. The Dunluce Links course – where The 2019 Open took place – is considered one of the finest tests of golf anywhere. It was ranked fourth in the world by Golf World, while Golf Magazine rated it twelfth in their list of the Top 100 Courses in the World. The island of Ireland can lay claim to one third of all the genuine links courses in the world – they’re dotted like diamonds in an emerald necklace along the coast-line. Four courses – besides the Royal Portrush, Ballybunion, Royal County Down Portmarnock and Portstewart are all ranked inside the world’s top 50. Portstewart, with stunning views across to the Inishowen Peninsula, hosted the 2017 Dubai Duty Free Irish Open – the 90th anniversary of
TEE TIME: Royal County Down golf course – a favourite of Tiger Woods
the inaugural tournament in 1927. The Royal County Down, Newcastle, some 25 miles south of Belfast, was one of Tiger Woods’ favourite courses when he was dominating the sport. It’s also a regular haunt of Shane Lowry, Darren Clarke, Padraig Harrington and Rory McIlroy Ireland also has its fair share of parkland courses – quite different from links courses which always snake along the coast. The Mount Wolseley Hotel & Spa Resort, Tullow, Co. Carlow boasts its own 18-hole championship golf course, spa, leisure club facilities including 20-metre indoor pool. The K Club, Straffan, Co. Kildare, is Ireland’s best-known parkland course. Having staged the Ryder Cup in 2006, this is a club to be reckoned with. Two courses boast flawless greens and meticulous course maintenance. The Ryder Cup returns to Ireland in 2026, when the tournament will be
hosted by the Adare Manor Golf Resort in Co. Limerick. Ireland’s golf courses can offer the most challenging of sporting tests. But they’re always set in the most spectacular of scenery, and inevitably come with every manner of luxury from spa to swimming pool. So even if you can’t tell a putter from a mashie niblick, you’re likely to have a splendid time.
Angling Fishermen have long known about Ireland’s angling. Rivers, loughs and coastlines packed with fish will keep your lines tight – from the banks of the Royal Canal in Dublin to the wide waters of the ShannonErne system. Even if you’ve never fished before, you’ll be hooked. Every year the world’s best anglers descend upon Ireland for the World Pairs Angling Championship, which takes place in counties Cavan, Leitrim and Fermanagh. With the next tournament due to take place in September 2020, you’ve plenty of time to plan your trip if you fancy catching some of the action.
Equestrian activities Ireland’s pastures have produced some of the finest horses in the world — the limestone in the soil gives them light, strong bones. You can test this for yourself in pony-trekking centres throughout the island – and there can be few better ways of seeing the island’s pastoral countryside.
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The Irish Post
MAP & ROUTE MILEAGE PLANNER
Roads in Ireland range from modern motorways to narrow country lanes, and driving in Ireland can be a magical experience, with scenic treasures around every corner.
Ar At Co Lo Do
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Whilst every care has been taken to ensure accuracy in the compilation of this map, Tourism Ireland cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions. Due to the small scale of this map, not all holiday centres can be shown. The information on this map is correct at the time of going to press. Š 2015 Tourism Ireland. Map creation by Michael Schmeling, www.maps.aridocean.com I Map data Š Open StreetMap contributors, CC BY-SA
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